CosBeauty Magazine May 2022

COSBEAUTY ISSUE 96 MAY-JULY 2022 Acne & AUTUMN/ pollution mtarWekneINudTEspR IS THERE A LINK? 99+ PNREOEDDUNCOTWS YOU GBsEeUGIrDINEuNTmEOR’sS yaouBuEgvnRmeereEeydantbAthootiuanSktgtniToown ISSN 1834-383X 03 9 771833 383011



moisturising A range formulated with highly efficient in all forms active ingredients that provide all skin types with an optimal level of hydration. the element for skincare experts Hyaluronic acid is a key ingredient within the range, to help prevent dehydration at all levels. This is combined with antioxidant and anti-pollution active ingredients to provide an additional protective action. Advanced Cosmeceuticals | 1800 242 011 | advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au

Now availaBle wiTh C L E A R + B R I L L I A N T NiCole As we age, the amount of maintenance required to keep a youthful look will increase, but getting started early is a huge advantage. Filling the gap between over-the-counter treatments and more aggressive laser offerings, Clear + Brilliant creates and defi nes an entirely new category of laser aesthetic treatments for clients moving along the skincare continuum. Clear + Brilliant helps prevent and address early signs of ageing, resulting in a brighter, more even skin tone. Treatments are comfortable, fast, effective and suitable for all skin types. The results are both immediate and progressive, depending on the age and condition of the skin. It is also great for those who are looking for short downtime and a quick skin ‘pick-me-up’. Call Nicole now to take advantage of an opening offer. 02 9327 7728 www.nicolesbeautysalon.com.au mobile 0410 627 767 [email protected] Shop 8, 401 - 407 New South Head Rd, Double Bay NSW 2028

Go From Before To After. 11 Times Faster.* CRYSTAL RETINAL - WORKS SO FAST IT LEAVES RETINOL BEHIND CLINICALLY PROVEN TO VISIBLY REDUCE LINES BY 20%** *Biochem J., 1990, 268, pp 371-378 **Proven via independent clinical study on Crystal Retinal 6. Tested on 33 participants over 12 weeks. CRYSTAL RETINAL www.medik8.com.au @medik8anz 1800 242 011

Dr Lisa is a female Specialist Plastic and Cosmetic Surgeon based in Sydney, Australia. She has worked in France, Germany and the USA. Breast augmentation Breast lift Breast reduction Abdominoplasty Mummy makeover Liposuction Lip lift Non-surgical facial enhancement including wrinkle injections and fillers 1300 DR LISA I SUITE 8, LEVEL 6, 75 CROWN ST WOOLLOOMOOLOO, SydNEy

SkinMTX® Clinically Researched Formulation Elevate Your Skincare with Award-Winning SkinMTX® SkinMTX® offers a complete range of dermatological-grade formulations that push the boundaries of efficacy. With active ingredients that offer unrivalled potency, SkinMTX® products are specially designed and formulated to penetrate optimally into skin to achieve visible, proven results. CLICK HERE & RECEIVE 15% DISCOUNT USE CODE COSBTY15 VALID UNTIL 31/07/2022 | 1800 242 011

80 The secret’s out: How Jennifer Aniston gets her glow Jennifer Aniston is teaming up with leading wellness brand to inspire us all to lead healthy and vibrant lives (with incredible skin). 84 Flowerbomb Ruby Orchid launches Viktor&Rolf have unleashed their most extravagant scent yet – Flowerbomb Ruby Orchid. 86 Your guide to breast augmentation Breast implant surgery is not a case of one size fits all. We look at the essential components of choosing the right breast implant for you. REGULARS 56 Why Pollution Could Be Causing Your Acne – And How 10 Editor’s Letter to Prevent It 12 Beauty Insider Did you know air pollution 104 Ed’s Faves is one of the most common causes of adult acne? Here’s FEATURES how to help protect skin from pollution damage. 28 Diversity in the beauty industry: How is Australia performing? 70 The epic evolution of the A new research report eyebrow commissioned by Allergan Bushy brows are bowing out Aesthetics says Aussies are while thin brows are making giving the local beauty industry a comeback. In honour of the a C+ for diversity. Here’s why. skinny brow revival, we look at eyebrow trends through the decades.

BEAUTY 34 Skin concern? There’s a serum for that! From skin plumping and hydration to improving pigmentation and blemish- prone skin to protecting against environmental pollutants, serums have changed the way we think about and buy skincare. 96 Autumn/winter makeup trends High-impact, low-maintenance looks with a nod to the 90s. Here’s what to wear on your face this season. www.cosbeauty.com.au 9

From the Issue 96 May – July 2022 EDITOR Editor-in-Chief he beauty industry is rebounding and in-person events are well and truly Michelle Kearney back – we’ve been showered with a slew of new product launches that are reinventing skincare as we know it. In this issue we look at some of the Art Director freshest new products to grace your bathroom shelves and makeup bags, so Debbie Pilarinos turn to our Beauty Insider on page 12 to get started. We also do a deep dive into the various serums on the market on page 34. Find out Writers how they work and which active ingredients are best for pigmentation, acne, dry skin Aimeé Rodrigues, Shonagh Walker and ageing skin, plus more! Looking for a solution to blemish-prone skin? Move over hormones, diet and stress Photographers – it appears air pollution is one of the most common causes of adult acne. Our article Debbie Pilarinos, ShutterStock on page 56 shares how to help protect skin from pollution damage and keep blemishes at bay. Distribution & As the weather gets cooler and our winter wardrobes come out of hiding, it’s the Subscription Enquiries perfect time to experiment with this season’s 90s-throwback makeup trends. From brick-brown lips to russet eyeshadows, this iconic glam look is actually more wearable Bill Dunk than you might think! Check out our feature on page 96 for some of our favourite Phone 02 8095 6265 Mob 0410 528 582 products to achieve the 90s cool. We also investigate the breast augmentation mammoplasty procedure, also known as Email [email protected] a ‘boob job’. Far from being a one-size-fits-all procedure, there are a myriad of decisions Advertising Enquiries to make and considerations to be mindful of before you take the plunge. Our guide to Michelle Kearney breast augmentation on 86 has you covered. Want even more? Our sister site www.AestheticAdvisor.com.au has everything you need to learn the ins and outs of all Phone 02 8095 6265 Mob 0419 624 246 the most popular cosmetic procedures. Email [email protected] We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed creating it for you. Editorial Enquiries Enjoy a beautiful winter! Michelle Kearney Phone 02 8095 6265 Mob 0419 624 246 Email [email protected] Produced & Published by Bella Media ABN 86 082 157 695 Managing Director Michelle Kearney Chief Operating Officer Bill Dunk Administrative Assistant Kamila Ramanauskaite Public Relations, Marketing & Event Organisation Phone 02 8095 6265 OFFICE ADDRESS Suite 2201, Level 22 Westfield Tower 2 101 Grafton St, Bondi Junction NSW, 2022 Phone +61 2 8095 6265 www.bellamedia.com.au Michelle Kearney FcoINsbDeUauStyOANNFDACaEeBstOheOtKicadvisor Editor-in-Chief [email protected] cFoOsLbLeOaWutyUASNODNaIeNsSthTAetGicRaAdMvisor_au Visit our new website, www.aestheticadvisor.com.au, the trusted online resource Reproduction in whole or in part is not permitted without the to: research procedures; find a skilled practitioner; read real reviews; and have written authorisation of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have questions answered. You will be able to find out everything you want to know been made to trace copyright holders. All manuscripts and articles about different aesthetic treatments, products and news. Leave a review of any submitted for publication remain the property of The Bella Media Group. This magazine contains general information only and does product or treatment you’ve tried or practitioner you’ve visited. not purport to be a substitute for medical advice. All readers are advised to seek medical advice from a doctor if considering www.cosbeauty.com.auREAD THE ONLINE EDITION PLUS MORE GREAT ARTICLES @ cosmetic surgery. The publisher and the authors do not accept any liability whatsoever in respect of an action taken by readers in reliance on the recommendations set out in this magazine. Except where specified in captions, photographs depict models who have not necessarily received treatments described in this magazine. Any ‘before and after’ photographs in CosBeauty Magazine articles are of genuine patients. It is important to understand that they represent one person’s experience and there is no guarantee that any other patient will experience similar results.



@cosbeauty Beauty insider THE WHO’S WHO AND WHAT’S NEW IN BEAUTY. GET SERIOUS ABOUT YOUR SKINCARE! Get to know Naturally Serious skincare. This is a brand that takes your skin seriously so you can glow forward and do it all, without second-guessing what’s actually in the products you’re using. Clinically clean and completely free of B.A.D. (Banned, Ambiguous or Debatable) ingredients, Naturally Serious products are consciously formulated to be good for your skin, good for the environment and cruelty-free. The products are formulated with their patented Anti-Pollution Blend, which is clinically tested to help combat visible signs of ageing from environmental damage, with antioxidants including pomegranate, goji berry, grape seed, green tea, red tea and white tea. What’s more, all products are vegan friendly, cleanly made, ethically developed and use recyclable and reusable packaging. 12

@cosbeauty TRINNY LONDON EXPANDS fully understands their skin and what INTO SKINCARE it needs. After four years of incredible growth, Trinny London is moving to the next Why start with cleansers? A level: skincare. clean canvas is your first and most important step – without a good The skincare line will be released cleanse, the rest of your products one category at a time, with the simply won’t work to their full first being Cleansers. The goal is to potential. Cleansers can often be demystify the world of skincare by overlooked in the grand scheme of a dividing it into easy-to-understand full routine, but it’s so important they chapters so that every individual get the attention they deserve. Trinny London has formulated two luxurious, refillable cleansers that make cleansing your face an active ritual to look forward to. Be Your Best Enzyme Balm Cleanser ($60) is oil-based to nourish skin and melt away makeup, and Better Off AHA/PHA Gel Cleanser ($50) is formulated with liquid exfoliants to go a little deeper and nudge off dulling dead skin cells. Used together or alone they leave your skin perfectly prepped for your next step. Stay tuned for the next ‘chapters’! SKIN MTX WINS “NICHE SkinMTX TeloZyme™ Youth PRODUCT OF THE YEAR” Activator, a multifaceted serum Award-winning dermatological- based on the Nobel prize-winning grade skincare range SkinMTX discovery of telomeres, was also adds another feather to its cap. The awarded the title of 2021 Beauty brand’s Advanced Reconditioning Insider Best in Anti-Ageing. Cream from its Dermat Series was awarded the “Niche Product of the Leveraging Swiss expertise in the Year” at the esteemed Beauty World field of skin treatment solutions, Middle East 2021 Awards. SkinMTX features top-of-the-range ingredients that deliver clinically- Advanced Reconditioning Cream proven results in its in-clinic is a remarkable protective cream treatments and home-care range. developed to target sensitive skin. It The proprietary formulations helps shield the skin from excessive harness the power of scientifically dryness, visible redness and researched actives to provide irritation with its potent calming and efficacious and visible improvements reparative ingredients. to skin problems. www.cosbeauty.com.au 13

@cosbeauty KLORANE PARTNERS WITH NEW BUDGET-FRIENDLY, HIGH hair types have the confidence to RAINFOREST RESCUE PERFORMING HAIR CARE look and feel themselves. It’s clean, Klorane’s major partnership with LAUNCHES IN COLES uncomplicated and works for every Rainforest Rescue will help grow 50,000 Good hair shouldn’t cost a month’s hair type. trees in the Daintree Rainforest. rent or four hours in the bathroom. What good hair needs is high-quality Formulated by industry experts, In an effort to sustain Australia’s formulas at affordable price points. each product is Australian owned, incredible biodiversity for future Because everyone and every hair made and manufactured. It’s also generations, Klorane has partnered type should have access to premium vegan, paraben-free, SLES & with Rainforest Rescue, a not-for-profit haircare. Enter, People. ALES-free, recyclable, soap-free, organisation with objectives to protect triclosan-free, propylene glycol-free, and restore rainforests. Global warming People is about bringing EDTA-free, and made without any is a growing, serious issue and one way beautifully designed, high- mineral oils, harsh detergents, and to mitigate the damage and make a real performing products to supermarket petrochemical cleansers. difference is to plant trees. Lots of trees. shelves at an affordable price point. Beyond performance, People is Oh, and every single product With this partnership, Klorane helps designed to ensure people with all is only $16. We told you it was contribute towards all the steps that go affordable! into propagating and growing 50,000 of the 75,000 seedlings that will be grown by the end of 2022. Klorane will be helping to double up the tree output across the nurseries with their investment, resulting in the largest nursery the Daintree has ever seen. Laurent-Emmanuel Saffré, Head of Oceania Region and CEO of Pierre Fabre Australia says, ‘At Klorane we are pharmacists, we are botanists, and we are committed to the planet. And we have been doing this for over 50 years. 2022 marks an important year as we are going one step further in our environmental actions by supporting Rainforest Rescue in growing 50,000 trees in the Daintree. It is our mission to support crucial plant rescue and protection programs, as well as inspiring a love of plant science in generations to come.’ 14

@cosbeauty CHARLOTTE TILBURY DROPS from the Sweet White Lupine Seed BRAND BEHIND WORLD-FAMOUS NEW HIGH-PERFORMANCE coatings that helps to improve the PINK CLAY MASK LAUNCHES SKINCARE INNOVATION feeling of skin elasticity and firmness NEW SLEEP MASK Meet your superpower for while reducing the appearance of Getting your “beauty sleep” is glowing skin! Charlotte’s Collagen sagging on facial contours; Cocoyl a cinch with Alya Skin’s new Pink Superfusion Facial Oil, $100, has Hydrolysed Collagen, a powerful Marine Collagen Sleep Mask. been designed with breakthrough plant-derived collagen to help The mask, which retails for $49.95 ingredients to be non-greasy and rehydrate the skin for a plumping, on alyaskin.com.au and in select non-comedogenic. Combining firming effect; NanoCacao O, an pharmacies, is the ninth product in potent plump-effect collagen extract of cocoa beans rich in ‘feel the Alya Skin range – adding to the with powerhouse plant extracts good’ chemicals found in chocolate brand’s impressive line-up of best- and soothing essential oils, this that helps to give skin a destressed selling products (including their miracle elixir is like rehab for dry appearance by smoothing the hero product, the Australian Pink skin. It soothes, smooths, hydrates look of fine lines and wrinkles; and Clay Mask.) and plumps the look of skin, while MAXnolia O, an extract derived helping to calm and soothe the from Magnolia Bark that helps to The Pink Marine Collagen Sleep senses with the transformative reduce the look of redness, boost Mask is designed to be used as a power of scent. skin hydration levels and give the luxurious overnight treatment that feeling of firmer, smoother, more delivers bouncy and bright skin the Super-charged actives include: elastic skin. very next morning. Key ingredients Collageneer®, a molecule extracted include Marine Collagen, Red Algae and Strawberry Gum. It helps to strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier, promote anti-ageing and energise dull skin. The pillow-proof formula is used as the final step in your evening routine or can be used as a wash-off mask, too. Wake up with glowing skin with this incredibly hydrating overnight mask – you can thank us later! www.cosbeauty.com.au 15

If your actions create a legacy that inspires others to dream more, learn more, do more and become more, then, you are an excellent leader. Dolly Parton 16

Editorial credit: Tinseltown / Shutterstock.com www.cosbeauty.com.au 17

Editorial credit: Kathy Hutchins / Shutterstock.com

Learn to embrace your own unique beauty, celebrate your unique gifts with confidence. Your imperfections are actually a gift. Kerry Washington www.cosbeauty.com.au 19

A girl should be two things: who and what she wants. Coco Chanel

www.cosbeauty.com.au 21

Editorial credit: Tinseltown / Shutterstock.com 22

The most alluring thing a woman ccaonnfihdaevneceis. Beyoncé Knowles www.cosbeauty.com.au 23

Females are the most beautiful, gorgeous creatures in the whole world. And I think that we are gorgeous no matter what size we are. Alicia Keyes

Editorial credit: Jaguar PS / Shutterstock.com www.cosbeauty.com.au 25

I am not free while any woman is unfree, even when her shackles are very di ferent from my own. Audre Lorde 26

www.cosbeauty.com.au 27

F E AT U R E DIVERSITY IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY: How is Australia performing? A NEW RESEARCH REPORT COMMISSIONED BY ALLERGAN AESTHETICS SAYS AUSSIES ARE GIVING THE LOCAL BEAUTY INDUSTRY A C+ FOR DIVERSITY. HERE’S WHY.

Recognising diversity, championing different forms of beauty and improving representation across all aspects of societies and our everyday lives is long overdue. As the global beauty industry moves to make diversity intrinsic to its offering, Allergan Aesthetic’s ‘Spectra of Beauty’ report explores the diverse layers to Australia’s beliefs, behaviours and influences, within the context of beauty. The Report is the first of its kind to highlight how our ethnicity and cultural background, age, sexual orientation and gender identity all have a powerful influence on our beauty ideals. And, most importantly, it asks the question: How well does Australia’s beauty industry reflect diversity? ‘It has never been more important than now to take meaningful steps to genuinely include and represent the true beauty a diverse population brings,’ says Nathalie McNeil, Associate Vice President and General Manager, ANZ, Allergan Aesthetics. ‘As the evolving discussion of diversity sits front and centre, we must recognise there is not a one-size-fits- all approach to beauty, and the focus must increasingly be on advocating and supporting positive self-image, being true to oneself and inclusivity.’ The initiative involved a national survey of over 2,250 adults in Australia and the findings were analysed across four aspects of identity: • People who identify as cisgender men or women, or non-binary • Age and generation – including Gen Z (ages 18-24), Millennials (ages 25-39), Gen X (ages 40-59), and Baby Boomers (ages 60+) • Ethnicity and cultural background • Sexual orientation – including people who identify as asexual, heterosexual, gay, lesbian, bisexual, transexual, queer/ questioning and intersex. www.cosbeauty.com.au 29

F E AT U R E HOW IS THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY PERFORMING ON DIVERSITY? Overall, the ‘Spectra of Beauty’ report embrace; cf. move against 27%). shows Australians hold a favourable Approaching half (41%) of the overall view of the local beauty industry’s presentation of diversity in survey respondents felt it’s important media, social media and advertising, for people to recognise their cultural but more work is needed. background/ ethnicity in their ‘look’. Women were slightly more likely to feel LOOKING UNIQUE AND pressure to adhere to their culture’s CONNECTING TO CULTURAL beauty standards than men (18% IDENTITY women vs. 10% men). The report demonstrates that Australians surveyed have a strong Overall, one in 8 (12%) stated they preference for creating authentic looks are proud that their appearance reflecting their sense of identity, with connects them to their cultural heritage. 79% believing it has become more For those with a Pacific Island or African acceptable to truly ‘be yourself’ in identification, this was most strongly appearance. reinforced (38% and 32% respectively) Overall, 45% said they try to convey ‘The deep emotional connections their sexual orientation through their we make between our beauty and look; this driver was highest in the external appearance, and our internal younger groups surveyed (Gen Z - 54%; sense of identity, is very powerful,’ Millennials - 49%; Gen X - 44%; and says Dr Davin Lim, Dermatologist, Baby Boomers - 37%). Queensland. ‘Whether it’s cultural heritage, gender or age, we as Interestingly, the survey found practitioners need to be open to all tension when it came to embracing views, because everyone has different cultural beauty standards or moving traits they want to express. The idea against them – with a virtually equal of a universal beauty type dictated response to these conflicting positions by social media seems to be shifting across the general population (31% to a more authentic, individualised representation.’

PRESSURE FROM BOTH SOCIAL AND DIGITAL DRIVERS Not surprisingly, given the ubiquity of social media in our lives, alongside the desire to look unique, a high proportion of younger people surveyed are feeling pressure to look good (Gen Z - 83%; Millennials - 78%; Gen X - 56%; Baby Boomers - 26%). Looking through a lens of sexual orientation, respondents identifying as bisexual (80%), gay (71%) or lesbian (79%) also felt pressure to look good compared with those who identify as heterosexual (53%). Some 43% of those identifying as bisexual and 36% of those identifying as lesbian, feel society expects them to look ‘a certain way’; while 27% of respondents who identify as gay felt pressure to look good ‘to find a partner’. On the age front, Millennials (24%) and Gen X (25%) surveyed were most likely to want to look younger than they are. While 74% of all respondents felt conscious of, or wished they could change something about their face, younger people were more likely than older groups to want to improve their facial features (Gen Z - 73% and Millennials - 73%) vs (Gen X - 62% and Baby Boomers - 44%). Overall, nearly three-quarters of those surveyed would like to improve specific aspects of their looks, primarily their face (61%), where they were most likely to want to improve skin quality. Those of Vietnamese or Chinese background were most likely to prioritise skin quality, with 57% and 42% respectively. Just one in ten (12%) of respondents felt being proud of how their look connects them to their cultural heritage; those of African, South/Latin America or Middle www.cosbeauty.com.au 31

F E AT U R E Eastern backgrounds were much more have undergone teeth whitening, likely to agree with this (32% Africa, compared with less than half of 28% South/Latin America, 23% those with European background Middle East). (45%). This is also reflected with non-surgical body shaping (61% HOW WE INVEST IN Middle Eastern, 50% South/Latin OUR LOOKS American vs. 16% European, 20% Asia & Pacific) Given the value we place on beauty • 71% of those with South/ Latin and its connection to portraying American or African background our genuine self, it is no surprise had undergone laser hair removal the majority of Australians surveyed compared with just 24% of (94%) engage in some form of beauty Europeans. behaviour, such as daily exercise (45%), • Nearly two-thirds (63%) of getting a regular haircut/colour (44%), respondents overall would tell mani/pedis (19%), teeth whitening someone they had a nonsurgical (16%) and anti-wrinkle and filler medical aesthetic procedure, injections (10%). those with a British background were least likely to tell someone The majority of those surveyed – (44%) while those with Italian 70% – believed non-surgical medical backgrounds are most likely (76%). aesthetic treatments are bespoke and tailored. A similar proportion, Overall, an average of $50 is nearly two-thirds (63%) believed spent per month on beauty products these procedures can help people and skincare and 5% of those find their identity. surveyed are spending more than $200 a month. Millennials and Gen Z The research found beauty have the highest average spend per behaviours differ between people from month (Millennials $69, Gen Z $67; different ethnic backgrounds: cf. Gen X $53, Baby Boomers $18), • Just over half with Middle Eastern supporting their heightened interest in improving their facial features. (54%), North American (57%), South /Latin American (53%) background Ethnic background also plays a have had wrinkle-relaxant injections, role in spending habits, with those compared with just 16% and 20% of from a Middle Eastern background people with European and Asia & likely to spend close to $100 on Pacific ancestry, respectively. average per month ($94 versus those • Up to three quarters of those with with British ancestry who spend just Middle Eastern (76%), African (73%), $36 per month on average). North American (74%), or South/ Latin American (75%) background

WORK STILL TO BE DONE The research findings show there Lower scores came from those is still work to be done here in with British (6.0), Irish (6.1), and Australia. On the positive side, Scottish (6.1) descent and higher the ‘Spectra of Beauty’ research scores from those with Japanese confirms most Australians surveyed (7.7), Torres Strait Islander (7.6), – close to four out of five (79%) Pacific Islander (7.2), Middle Eastern – agree it has become more (7.3), and African (7.0) heritage. Just acceptable to truly ‘be yourself’ over two thirds of all respondents when it comes to beauty. (68%) thought the media portray their ethnicity well, however, those The results are also positive with Chinese (50%), Japanese (53%) towards the representation of and Middle Eastern (54%) heritage beauty, with 70% of Australians felt less represented, suggesting surveyed saying they like that a mix media has some catching up to do. of gender styles are being portrayed more often. The results reinforce that when it comes to beauty, every individual is However, when asked to rank unique with different perspectives diversity in Australia’s beauty and perceptions. To be truly industry on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 diverse, the beauty industry needs being not diverse at all and 10 a full representation of all types of extremely diverse), respondents individuals and members of the overall gave an average score of 6.3 community. CBM – essentially a C+. www.cosbeauty.com.au 33

SKIN

SKIN CONCERN? THERE’S A SERUM FOR THAT! FROM SKIN PLUMPING AND HYDRATION TO IMPROVING PIGMENTATION AND BLEMISH-PRONE SKIN TO PROTECTING AGAINST ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTANTS, SERUMS HAVE CHANGED THE WAY WE THINK ABOUT AND BUY SKINCARE. W hether you want to dewy botanical and marine agents – in concentrated doses. up dry skin, fight back against Depending on the ingredients, ageing or keep pigmentation serums can be applied in the morning, at night, or both. When and brown spots at bay, there’s a it comes to layering your skincare products, you should always start with serum designed and formulated for the lightest products before moving on to the heaviest. Serums, therefore, just about every skin concern. should always be applied before you moisturise. A moisturiser over the top Serums have become the new will increase skin hydration and ‘lock in’ the serums, helping to protect the essential in any serious skincare skin from environmental damage. routine, and we now have a greater As a rule of thumb, use a serum both morning and night as part of understanding of precisely how your skincare routine. You might use the same product, or switch it key ingredients interact with skin up depending on the skin concern you’re targeting. Some ingredients, cells. One of the benefits of these such as retinol, should only be used at night. lightweight moisturise-binding For deeper penetration, try products is that they are very specific applying your serum with a jade or quartz roller or an at-home skin in what they do, whether it’s to target needling roller. pigmentation, dryness, blemishes or wrinkles and skin laxity. Serums are usually lighter in texture than moisturisers, existing in water- or oil-based products, and are able to carry smaller molecules deeper into the skin where they can exert the most benefit. They are designed to deliver specific active ingredients – whether it’s antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, peptides, growth factors or www.cosbeauty.com.au 35

SKIN SERUMS FOR PIGMENTATION Hyperpigmentation affects over 80 percent of women over the age of 25 and is rated the number- two skin concern after facial wrinkles. Research has shown that a high concentration of Vitamin C (in the form of L-ascorbic acid) can significantly improve brown spots, as well as skin-brightening ingredients such as hydroquinone. In the form of stabilised retinol, Vitamin A helps surface hyper pigmented cells to be sloughed off more evenly and also acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor, essentially helping to stop overproduction of pigment in the skin. Vitamin B3/Niacinamide helps prevent transfer of the melanin pigment from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte in the epidermis. Kojic acid is another commonly used ingredient in treating pigmentation as it helps inhibit the production of tyrosinase. AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acid may also be effective in helping to control hyperpigmentation and melasma. 2. 3. 1.

11. 10. 7. 9. 8. 4. 5. 6. 1. SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF 30ml, $233, 2. KIEHL’S Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution 30ml, $88, 3. Image MD Restoring Power-C Serum 30ml, $199.95, 4. Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum 30ml, $95, 5. Biossance Squalane + Lactic Acid Resurfacing Night Serum 30ml, $102, 6. Skeyndor Power C+ Antioxidant Illuminating Serum 30ml, $119, 7. Murad Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum, 30ml, $130, 8. Sunday Riley C.E.O 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum 30ml, $183, 9. No7 Radiance+ 15% Vitamin C Serum, $34.99, 10. Sisley Phyto Blanc Le Concentré 20ml, $520, 11. LAMAV Daily Vitamin C Serum 30ml, $75. www.cosbeauty.com.au 37





SKIN SERUMS FOR WRINKLES, FINE LINES & SKIN LAXITY 1. mesoestetic aox ferulic 30ml, $239, 2. Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 30ml, $87, 3. WiQo Smoothing Reduce the look of fine lines and Face Fluid 30ml, $138, 4. Ella Baché Retinol wrinkles, sagging and sallow skin with Renewal Eye Serum 15ml, $109, 5. Jane Iredale targeted anti-ageing serums containing HydroPure Hyaluronic Acid Lip Treatment, $74, 6. hyaluronic acid (HA), antioxidants, House of Immortelle Ibiza Time-Freezing Face vitamin complexes, alpha hydroxy acids Serum 30ml, $89.95, 7. CALECIM Professional (AHAs) and peptides. Serum 5ml x 6, $498, 8. SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic 30ml, $233, 9. Vanessa Megan Green Coffee & Serums containing retinol (Vitamin Gotu Kola Beauty Veil Lifting Serum, $89.95, 10. A), L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C10 Anti-Ageing collagen-stimulating peptides are great Serum 30ml, $71.95, 11. RoC Retinol Correxion for anti-ageing and help improve fine Deep Wrinkle Serum 30ml, $44.99, 12. SkinMTX lines and lax skin. Dull and combination Fine Line Eraser Serum 30ml, $159, 13. Eminence skin types can also benefit from Organic Skin Care Marine Flower Peptide these actives. Serum 30ml, $149, 14. No7 Laboratories Firming 4. Booster Serum 30ml, $61.99, 15. L’Occitane If skincare has an OG, Vitamin A is Immortelle Overnight Reset Serum, $139, 16. most certainly it. Synthetic Vitamin L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Cell Renewal Midnight A-like compounds, such as retinol, have Serum 30ml, $59.95 been shown to reduce many visible signs of skin ageing, especially fine lines and wrinkles. Medical research has also documented that the use of retinol on the skin can create new collagen deposition, and greater proliferation of new blood vessels and capillary formation. Dramatic improvements have also been observed with regard to skin smoothness, evening of skin tone and overall rejuvenation. 1. 2. 3.

5. 6. 9. 10. 8. 7. 11. 13. 14. 12. 15. 16. www.cosbeauty.com.au 39

SKIN Vitamin C, in addition to reducing the amount of free radical formation in the skin and protecting against pigmentation, is also heralded for its ability to enhance the synthesis of collagen, which helps skin maintain its firmness and youthful plumpness. Peptides are highly respected for their ability to penetrate the skin and help increase the production of collagen and elastin. Peptides have been shown to ‘turn on’ fibroblasts, which are essential for building and repairing the skin and a basic requirement for anti-ageing success. Vitamin B3, or niacinamide, also deserves a shout-out. Its benefits include increasing the natural deep hydration levels in the skin through increasing ceramide production; improving the strength of the skin by increasing production of skin barrier proteins including keratin; improving skin firmness and reducing the appearance of fine lines by increasing collagen production; improving the immune function of the skin; reducing excess oil production; and reducing uneven skin tone and pigmentation. 1. 2. 3. 4.

5. 6. 9. 7. 8. 12. 10. 11. 13. 14. 15. 1. Skinstitut Retinol Serum, $49, 2. Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum 50ml, $104, 3. Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum 30ml, $112, 4. Dr. LeWinn’s Reversaderm Collagen Accelerator Serum 30ml, $69.95, 5. Bioeffect EGF Serum, $210, 6. Biologi Bm Regenerate Serum 30ml, $125, 7. Peter Thomas Roth Even Smoother Glycolic Retinol Resurfacing Serum, 30ml $99, 8. Dr. Naomi ApocaLips Lip Plumping Treatment 10ml, $89, 9. Dr Naomi Skin Smooth Criminal 35ml $119, 10. Naturally Serious Sleepover Retin-Oil Night-time Treatment, $55, 11. Jurlique Herbal Recovery Signature Serum, 30ml $96, 12. KIEHL’S Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro Dose Serum 50ml, $118, 13. Skin Proud Bright Eye 15ml, $27.99, 14. O Cosmedics Pure Age Defiance Serum 30ml, $92, 15. IT Cosmetics Hello Results Wrinkle-Reducing Daily Retinol Serum-in-Cream 50ml, $105 www.cosbeauty.com.au 41

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SERUMS FOR BLEMISH-PRONE SKIN Acne is an inflammatory skin condition that causes a disorder in the activity of pores. In normal conditions, sebaceous glands produce oil which lubricate and protect the skin’s surface. In the case of acne, these glands produce more oil than normal, causing a build-up of oil, bacteria and dead skin cells which leads to an obstruction to the follicle. This ultimately results in the formation of pimples and red spots. To help congested, acneic skin, look for formulations with lactic acid and salicylic acid. These are chemical exfoliants that promote faster cell turnover and unclog pores. Vitamin B (Niacinamide) has been shown to reduce inflammation and limit the overproduction of sebum in oily skin types, while AHAs/BHAs gently exfoliate to remove build-up and unclog pores. Retinol (Vitamin A) is also an important acne-fighting active. It helps prevent the cells that line the follicular canal from sticking together and creating the solid impactions that block the follicle, thereby addressing the underlying mechanisms that contribute to acne. 1. Trinny London Reveal Yourself AHA Exfoliant 75ml, $69, 2. Aesthetics Rx B Serum, $109, 3. SkinCeuticals Silymarin 30ml, $233, 4. Sunday Riley Good Genes Lactic Acid Treatment 50ml, $183, 5. Trinny London Find Your Balance BHA Exfoliant 75ml, $65 www.cosbeauty.com.au 43

SERUMS FOR DRY, 2. LACKLUSTRE SKIN 1. 3. SKIN Dry skin is a manifestation of the skin relating to both internal and external factors. In hydrated, glowing skin, 4. the epidermis (top layer) has a seal 6. around the cells to trap the moisture, known as a barrier function. However, 5. dryness, cold and sensitising products wreak havoc on this natural function, 7. so you need products to bolster your skin’s defences. A hydrating serum 8. 9. 10. underneath your moisturiser will 11. penetrate deeper into the skin for boosted hydration and brightness. Look for hydrating proteins and antioxidants that attract water to your skin; serums formulated with hyaluronic acid are heaven-sent for dehydrated and dry skin. Ceramides, which are lipids that help the skin retain moisture, and squalene, a natural emollient that locks in moisture, are also wonderful antidotes to parched skin. 1. Boost Labs 2D-Hyaluronic Hydro Boost Serum, $29.95, 2. Minenssey Purifying Perfecting Serum, $58, 3. Votary London Super Seed Serum 50ml, $150, 4. Sisley Hydra-Global Serum 30ml, $320, 5. SkinMTX Peptide Serum+ 7ml x 2, $84, 6. Biologique Recherche Serum T.E.W.L 30ml, $292, 7. Dermalogica Circular Hydration Serum 30ml, $94, 8. mesoestetic ha densimatrix 30ml, $169, 9. Medik8 Liquid Peptides 30ml, $98, 10. Mukti Antioxidant Facial Serum 30ml, $66.95, 11. The Secret Skincare The Serum 30ml, $130, 12. Saya Super Serum 30ml, $90, 13. Feniu Tongan Coconut Oil 30ml, $79, 14. Susanne Kaufmann Hyaluron Serum 30ml $228, 15. Charlotte Tilbury Collagen Superfusion Face Oil 30ml, $100, 16. Dr Roebuck’s The Goldie Vitamin C Glow Drops 30ml, $79, 17. Recreation Beauty Vibrant Skin Oil 30ml, $96, 18. Tropicology Avocado Revitalising Serum 50ml, $109.95, 19. IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Lines Hyaluronic Acid 30ml, $46

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SKIN SERUMS FOR ENVIRONMENTAL 1. PROTECTION Constant exposure to environmental aggressors plays havoc on our skin. It’s been shown that atmospheric aggressors increase levels of oxidative and inflammatory markers and decrease levels of key skin proteins required for healthy skin barrier function. In addition to air pollution and radiation pollution, High Energy Visible Light (HEV) – the official name for the blue glare that comes from phones, laptops and tablets – is emerging as a worrisome environmental pollutant in recent years. HEV light makes up the blue portion of visible light in the electromagnetic spectrum and is a natural part of sunlight. Unlike UVA and UVB light, blue light is not linked to skin cancer, but it does share UV’s potential for accelerating free radical damage. When exposed to free radicals, the proteins which support the skin’s strength and elasticity, collagen and elastin, grow weak, which in turn gives fine lines and wrinkles a chance to take hold. Continuous exposure to HEV light also impairs the skin’s protective barrier function, a situation that can result in inflammation and hyperpigmentation. Thankfully, there’s now an array of range of environmental skin shields designed to help defend the skin against nasty biochemical triggers. CBM 1. iS CLINICAL PerfecTint Powder 2. SPF 40, $110, 2. Skeyndor Sun Expertise Fresh After Sun Emulsion, $44, 3. mesoestetic aox ferulic 30ml, $239, 4. Dr Roebuck’s Surf Chaser Reverse Ageing Serum, $88, 5. SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF 30ml, $233, 6. SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic 30ml, $233, 7. SkinCeuticals Silymarin 30ml, $233

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SKIN Crystal Retinal leaves retinol behind MEDIK8 TAKES VITAMIN A TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH CRYSTAL RETINAL, A TIME-RELEASED FORM OF VITAMIN A THAT OFFERS PRESCRIPTION-STRENGTH RESULTS WITHOUT THE UNWANTED SIDE EFFECTS. Crystal Retinal, by award- winning cosmeceutical brand Medki8, has redefined topical Vitamin A skincare. The range is formulated with stabilised retinaldehyde (retinal for short), a next-generation super-charged derivative of Vitamin A. Retinal can deliver results comparable to prescription-strength retinol faster and without the well-documented side effects of flaking and redness that can come with stronger formulations. Plus, with its superior stability, you can be assured of results until the very last drop. ‘Retinaldehyde, or retinal, is a completely different Vitamin A molecule to retinol. That one vowel change is small, but the difference between retinol and retinal is quite stark,’ says Daniel Isaacs, Director of Research at Medik8. ‘Retinaldehyde is a relatively new Vitamin A ingredient but still has