Love Sewing

The UK,s No.1 sewing mag SSuEnWshFinOeR! Meet L Master mandarin collars SEWING BEE L Tips & tricks for topstitching L Learn how to alter sleeves WINNER Sizes Annie! S-XL Sizes 8-20 Quick-make Wrapped with SUMMER DRESS LOVE DRESS SEW Sizes Juliet Uzor’s XS-XL Duster jacket Pretty ISSUE 110 UK £10.99 PEPLUM TOP

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to issue 110 of Meet the Love Sewing! TEAM Hello, August! The summer holidays are in full swing, and I’m making the Michelle most of the sunshine. It feels so good to be outside in my EDITOR Michelle loves handmade dresses dressmaking, fashion history and celebrating without the extra fabulous makers! See what she’s sewing layers right now! next on her Instagram: stitchywhitney We’re embracing Ruth the warmer weather CONSULTANT with our paper EDITOR patterns this month, Ruth hopes to inspire your creativity in every two stylish dresses pattern can be used to create so many different issue. For more sewing looks – I am excited to see all the beautiful antics see her Instagram perfect for the versions our readers make! grinlowsews and visit www.grinlowstudio.com  season. The first, As always, we have plenty more inspiring dressmaking patterns from our indie designers Ian Butterick 6551, to bring you further sewing joy. Julia Claridge of Bobbins and Buttons has designed the perfect SENIOR DESIGNER is a mandarin self-draft jersey maxi skirt on page 72, which, When he's not spending whilst perfect for the warmer weather right now, time with his family, Ian is collar dress with will see you through to the Autumn days around enthusiastic about great the corner and beyond. Team it with Crafty Sew design and loves getting an elegant lean & So’s pretty jersey peplum top on page 32 for creative with the team. a complete outfit that’s easy, stylish and super Check out more of his line. Its minimal comfy to boot. Julia’s beautiful wrap dress on page 64 works well for special occasions as well arty work at seam lines make as every day, and combined with Debbie Von icdartwork.etsy.com Grabler-Crozier’s occasion clutch bag on page 26 it a winner for you’re all set for a special event. You could then sew Juliet Uzor’s fabulous Duster Jacket on page showing off your 42 to complete the look! biggest and boldest All this, plus our panel of industry experts deliver the usual hearty dose of advice and prints! Alison inspiration. We also have gorgeous home and accessory projects, Ruth Brown’s top tips on Smith MBE shows sewing for children and a joyous interview with Sewing Bee winner Annie on page 10. ocScaeswionforonapsapgeecia6l4 you how to perfect the mandarin As always, write in with your makes and collar on page comments to [email protected] or 53, and see tag us on Instagram at lovesewingmag. We love hearing from you! reader Leanne’s Until then, gorgeous green Michelle version on page 20. Our second pattern, Threadcount 2114, is a gorgeous gathered dress with an elasticated neckline and three great sleeve options. With a ruffle and belt as additional style options to incorporate, as well as three dress lengths to WhJiapckuept Jonulipaa’sgeD4u2ster choose from, this

Inside this ISSUE 17 REGULARS Includes PROJECTS AND FEATURES 3 sophisticated 17 Your Butterick B6551 mandarin 6 Love Sewing Loves - silhouette collar dress dresses 10 Interview with Sewing Bee 22 Your Threadcount TC2114 series 8 winner Annie FREE 3-in-1 gathered dress 14 Fabric Focus FABULOUS SEWING 26 Wedded bliss clutch bag BOOK BUNDLE WHEN 32 Pick-me peplum top 20 Reader review 42 Juliet Azor’s duster jacket YOU SUBSCRIBE 49 Striped summer cushions 30 SUBSCRIBE TODAY 58 Scrap-busting peg bag Turn to page 30 to 64 Wrapped with love dress 37 Exclusive giveaway: find out more 72 Sew-any-size jersey skirt Bombay Stores Find us online 38 Review: The latest machine from Janome www.craftworld.com 39 Skill Building with Amy Scarr 45 Sewing for kids 53 Couture sewing techniques with Alison Smith MBE 56 Pattern Picks 60 Dressmaking Dilemmas with Elisalex de Castro Peake 67 Exclusive giveaway: Achoo Pachoo 68 Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie 79 Exclusive giveaway: The Daylight Company 80 Coming next issue 82 This month I’m making search ‘lovesewingmag’ 4

22 23 Editorial Must-sew Editor Michelle Rowley gorgeous Consultant Editor Ruth Brown gathered dress 72 Chief Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton 32 Sub-Editors Andrea Petrie, Victoria Smith 49 Designer Ian Danby Photographer Laura Conroy Covermount & Packaging Designer Sharon Drury Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Amy Scarr Advertising Advertising account executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Publishing Head of Content Kate Heppell Group Buying & Licensing Controller Lucy Pedder Group Business Development Manager Chris Cooke Head of Product Carol Jones Head of Publishing Ruth Walker Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson Distribution Newstrade Seymour Distribution Ltd Tel: 0844 826 0613 Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 Vitality House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG [email protected] www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0161 327 0440 Fax: 0161 474 6961 Subscription Enquiries Tel: 0161 327 0441 [email protected] Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity. Stock images provided by Shutterstock Inc CONTRIBUTORS Amy Scarr Claire-Louise Hardie Amy is here to help take your skills to the next level with her Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and expert tips and tricks. Discover how to sew with faux leather costumier. Claire-Louise teaches a range of step-by-step and suede on page 39, and stay up to date with Amy’s latest sewing classes online at www.thriftystitcher.co.uk and this makes at www.almondrock.co.uk month, guides us through shortening lined sleeves. Head to page 68 to learn more! Elisalex de Castro Peake Alison Smith MBE Elisalex is a regular columnist for Love Sewing, and is also the Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is head of design and co-founder of By Hand London, which an industry expert in classic couture, an author and has her produces high-quality patterns available at own shop and line of patterns. Join Alison on page 53 for her www.byhandlondon.com. Turn to page 60 for her expert tips on sewing mandarin collars. answers to your dressmaking dilemmas. 5

The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month MAKE A SPLASH a helping hand, there are Learn to Sew Swimwear online workshops to take you step-by-step through making your Summer is here! The talented team at Tilly and the Buttons are pattern, as well as in-depth video lessons taught by Hannah bringing in the summer sun in style with their new collection Bullivant. www.shop.tillyandthebuttons.com of swimwear, Evie la Lùve. Dive into this fabulous collection and create your own swimwear featuring ruffles and colour Iron smarter blocking, or keep it simple with clean classic lines. If you need Sew Over it Oliso’s iconic SmartIron just The talented team at Sew Over It has been busy as always! got smarter! Recently they released the Isabelle Blouse & Dress, a light and This fantastic chic pattern that will slot right into your me-made wardrobe. iron has so Featuring beautiful fluted sleeves, this pattern brings a flounce many amazing to your style and is fabulous to wear in the heat. You can create features, this pattern as a blouse or dress, so it is as versatile as it is stylish! including a www.sewoverit.com 2-inch Detailer Tip for seams and bias tape, a built-in spray for stubborn wrinkles and a Diamond ceramic-flow sole plate with pro-press core for superior heat, durability and no stick. Oliso’s Iconic SmartIron is perfect for sewing or quilting projects. This iron has beautiful ergonomic weight distribution and an enhanced auto-lift responsiveness system making it agile and easy to use. Oliso products are available nationwide from haberdashery, knitting and craft stockists. For stockist information email – [email protected] 6

CRAFTY SEW & SO ANNOUNCES Fabulous florals THE DRESSMAKERS BALL IS BACK! If you are looking for a gorgeous and lightweight fabric for stylish summer We’re so excited to hear dress patterns, you will love this fabric that the wonderful team from Midland Textiles. With pretty florals at Crafty Sew & So are and a vintage feel, this Cotton Lawn bringing dressmakers Dress Fabric is ideal for your summer from all over the country wardrobe. Midland Textiles stocks a whole range of beautiful fabrics, so you together by hosting their are sure to find exactly what you need third Dressmakers Ball for that dream project. on 1st October at the www.midlandtextiles.co.uk City Rooms, Leicester. Last held in 2019, The Dressmakers Ball is an evening event that includes dinner, a catwalk to show off glorious gowns and live music. Added extras include goodie bags for guests, a charity prize draw and a special cocktail for the evening.Tickets will be available at www. craftysewandso.com from the 15th of July 2022 for £75 per person. Perfect patterns LUCKY CLOVER We love this beautiful Sienna Top & Dress pattern from Emporia Get your sewing patterns. This pattern is perfect for long summer afternoons project marked up and would look gorgeous in pretty florals, or solid colours for a in double-quick more formal look. This pattern comes in a top and dress version, time with this handy so you can mix up your look. You can now find this beautiful tool that traces pattern at www.minerva.com both the seam and cutting line at the same time! With an ergonomic handle for a comfortable grip, the Clover Double Tracing Wheel also features wheels that are made from polyacetal steel for strength and durability. Clover products are available nationwide from all good craft, sewing and hobby shops. For stockist information, contact Clover mail: clover@ stockistenquiries. co.uk 7

Vibrant viscose A YEAR OF SEWING WITH NANI IRO If you are a sewist who is a fan of vibrant prints and geometric shapes on your fabric, you will absolutely love this new By Naomi Ito, £19.99 collection from Atelier Brunette. Made from viscose that is World Book Media free of harmful substances, this Loom Night Fabric has a Japanese fabric brand Nani Iro was created by artist and manufacturing cycle that has been optimized to drastically textile designer, Naomi Ito. In this follow-up to The Nani reduce the environmental impact compared to traditional Iro Sewing Studio, Naomi and her talented atelier present a viscose. www.atelierbrunette.com collection of 18 garments that are perfect for all seasons with just a change of fabric. With full-size pattern sheets included, this book features 18 patterns designed to be layered, mixed and matched to create beautiful silhouettes. This book contains a whole year of sewing adventures, full of styles that you will wear again and again. SKIRT SMART This gorgeous high- waisted skirt pattern is the Evelyn pattern from Chalk & Notch Evelyn skirt. This pattern is perfect for that woven fabric in your stash and is perfect paired with a blouse, or go casual with a t-shirt. Make the Evelyn skirt with buttons or an elastic waist. We love the dramatic side split of this skirt. Find this skirt and more must-have patterns at www.fabricgodmother. co.uk 8

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15 MINTUES WITH MEET 2022 SEWING BEE WINNER Annie Series 8 of The Great British Sewing Bee saw Esme & Patrick with four finalists to choose from for the first time, but there can only ever be one winner – congratulations to Annie! 10

The series 8 Bees Series 8 was possibly the closest waited excitedly for Patrick and Esme Annie loves a competition yet of The Great Sewing to choose their winner… bright bold print Bee, so close that the judges decided to put four contestants through to the final Annie, 32, a junior buyer from Surrey, for the first time ever – and who can was victorious! After 10 weeks of blame them! It brought us a nail-biting tough sewing challenges, Annie was final, leaving us guessing right to the handed the coveted trophy and became end as to who would win the coveted Britain’s Best Amateur Sewer of 2022. title of Britain’s Best Amateur Sewer Throughout the series, 12 talented of 2022. contestants [Angela, Brogan, Chichi, Cristian, Debra, Gill, Man Yee, Marni, Judges Patrick Grant and Esme Mitch, Annie, Steve and Richie] created Young kicked off the party-themed stunning garments under immense final by challenging the contestants time pressure under the watchful eyes to sew Esme’s pioneering lycra disco of judges Esme Young and Patrick Amorphous dress. They had to use their Grant, and it was Annie who impressed skills to handle the tricky lycra, use them the most. \"The made-to-measure minimal instructions and sew six perfect jumpsuit crowned Annie champion. ties with mitred corners. Next, the It was such a stunning sew – it was finalists had their last opportunity to knockout,\" explained Patrick. show off their instinct for design in the transformation challenge, as they used Annie has always loved art and fashion fabric offcuts from the series to create and now works as a buyer for a a party garment. Finally, for the most high street fashion brand. The important made-to-measure challenge of person who has given her most the series, the sewists were tasked with inspiration is her 92-year-old constructing and fitting a red-carpet- granny, Monica, who taught worthy jumpsuit for someone special in her to sew. The first thing she their lives. made was an apron when she was eight years old for Brownies. After four eye-catching jumpsuits were Annie took sewing up again in proudly modelled on the catwalk, we all earnest during the pandemic. She 11

It’s the most intense workshop and I got the most amazing prize at the end of it! describes it as therapeutic and loves to out that we were all going through to Was the final scary at times for you, and what were your best bits? sew late at night. Her granny’s Ghanaian the final together. Whatever the outcomes of the challenges, I was going to try and enjoy heritage is important to her, and she the final. My favourite bit was seeing my model, Marina, and my family – I likes to incorporate bold and colourful Tell us about your fellow finalists – was literally so overwhelmed as we had been away from them for so long. African prints into her creations. We Brogan, Man Yee and Debra. Marina is one of my best friends, so seeing her on the catwalk was insane, caught up with Annie to learn all about It was an amazing experience to be and having her there while sewing made it feel a bit more normal, having her experience on the show. alongside those three Bees in the final. a good friend next to me to chat to. Debra and I always said that the Made What will you take away from your experience of being on The Great Congratulations Annie! How does it to Measure challenges were where we British Sewing Bee? I have learned so much that it’s so feel to be the winner? could enjoy the designing and creative difficult to put into words. I literally feel like it’s been the most intense I just wasn’t prepared for it at all, it aspect and Debra was so, so talented workshop, and I got the most amazing prize at the end of it! It’s been a very was definitely a shock, but a nice one, in that way! Brogan and Man Yee were fulfilling experience. I have made lots of new friends and learned new skills absolutely. I think we were all so incredible sewers, very meticulous and and also learned not to be afraid of a new challenge, take it on and make it focused on the challenges week thorough, which I have tried to take on your own. I would say to anyone who wants to apply for a future series, to by week, the final came board instead of winging just go for it, put yourself outside of your sewing comfort zone, trust the so quickly! It was a it! In terms of sewing, I process and you won’t regret it. surreal feeling to get to learned so much from What were the best and worst moments for you during the final for all of us. I had to give everyone the whole way the whole series? I really didn’t expect through – their advice has My best moment was when everyone came back for the final episode, being to win. myself a talking been invaluable. Where do you keep to in the toilet Did you ever imagine you the trophy? could get to this stage? mirrors aroundNow it can take centre No definitely not, stage in my front especially on the first episode. I had a slight halfway throughroom! It’s amazing, I can now have it out for panic during the first everyone to see. made-to-measure and had to give myself a talking It was the first time in to in the toilet mirrors Sewing Bee history that no Bee around halfway through and pull myself was eliminated in the semi-final, together! I would have been happy to get how did that feel? a quarter way through, and then I got We became so close as Bees in the halfway through, so I couldn’t believe it competition that we didn’t want anyone when I got to the final. I can be my own to leave the semi-final when we all had worst critic, but I found the series gave got so far. We were so excited to find me a newfound confidence in my ability. 12

And the winner is... Annie with the coveted trophy reunited with all the Bees was a really special moment. In episode six, I won my first Garment of the Week in Music Week, and I really didn’t expect to win that. The worst moment was coming last in Sports Week when I had to transform the netball outfit into a dress. It was a bit of a sewing disaster to say the least! What was your favourite challenge overall, and why? My favourite week was the Origami Made to Measure in Japan week in episode nine. It really tested me, trying materials I had never used before and to really think outside the box. It took so long to get it right, but it ended up being my favourite piece in the whole series. I am really glad I got to make that. How did you watch the series and the final? I watched with my friends and family every Wednesday, and it became our new takeaway night. For the final we watched on a big screen, but this time with a prosecco to celebrate! It sounds like you had lots of Annie's made-to-measure FIND OUT family support jumpsuit crowned her champion MORE I was pregnant while filming the show and my partner dealt with my emotional March, but I’m starting to find a little Discover more about Annie on ups and down so well. My mum is a bit of sewing time for me. I’ve just made Instagram madeby_annie_ massive Sewing Bee fan and she made him a little African wax print romper me apply. If it wasn’t for her, I wouldn’t suit, and he looks adorable in it. have gotten on. What’s next for you in the Tell us about the new addition sewing world? to the family! I am SO excited to see what happens Caleb has changed my life so from here. dramatically, he is like the 13th Little Bee, as he was there all the way through the filming. I didn’t have much time to sew when he was born at the end of 13

Sew this dress with FABRIC 1 Love Sewing issue 111 2 FOCUS 3 20% OFF Use our exclusive code DESIGNER20 to receive 20% off all ex-designer deadstock fabric at Minerva 4 IT’S A STRETCH 5 Combine comfort and style this summer with our pick of designer stretch fabric Fabric shopping 6 SCAN TO SEE ALL 1 Coral ITY silky stretch knit, £5.99 per metre THE DESIGNER 2 Dark royal blue textured stretch knit, £6.99 per metre DEADSTOCK! 3 Grape textured stretch knit, £5.99 per metre 14 4 Yellow scuba stretch knit, £4.99 per metre 5 Multicoloured textured stretch knit, £9.99 per metre 6 Multicolured striped stretch woven crêpe, £9.99 per metre

M7893 knit wrap dress, sizes 8-24 7 £11.50 www.sewdirect.com 8 9 10 11 USE YOUR CODE FROM 4TH AUGUST – 18TH SEPTEMBER! Fabric shopping 12 7 Mustard stretch mesh, £4.99 per metre 8 Multicolured textured stretch knit, £9.99 per metre 9 Multicolured pleated plisse stretch knit, £12.99 per metre 10 Mustard Stretch lace, £4.99 per metre 11 Emerald ITY silky stretch knit, £14.99 per metre 12 Multicoloured stretch woven crêpe, £9.99 per metre Shop these fabrics and more at www.minerva.com 15

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Use your PATTERN SLEEK chic Show off your favourite fabric with these simple silhouette dresses for maximum impact VIEW B Sew a full-length version for a sophisticated summer look We used Lady McElroy Viscose Challis, £15.99 per metre www.minerva.com 17 17

Michelle says… Learn couture tips for sewing The minimal seam the mandarin lines mean you could choose a big, collar on bold print” page 53 VIEW A Choose the shorter option for a fun everyday dress We used Dashwood Studios Lazy Days Swimming, 100% cotton, £3.75 per fat quarter www.makeat140.co.uk 18

MASTERCLASS Subscribe today and get TOP STITCHING TWO PAPER Get top marks for PATTERNS your topstitching with our expert tips WITH EVERY The neck and front-opening edges of this ISSUE! pattern are finished with visible topstitching on the front of your garment. Topstitching See page 30 can be tricky to master, but here are our top for details tips to keep in mind when sewing your dress: PREPARATION Press your garment well to flatten out the seams. It can be easier to topstitch drapey fabric if it has been stabilised first with spray starch. Alternatively, for very lightweight fabrics try stitching with a layer of tissue paper underneath the stitching area to stabilise. Lightly mark your stitching line on the RS of your garment to ensure perfect positioning for your stitching. Or you can invest in a machine foot with a stitching guide that you can run along the edge of the fabric to get an even distance every time. Make sure you are using a sharp needle. Choose a regular thread that is as close to the main colour of your fabric as possible if you don’t want your stitching to be very visible. MAKING A FEATURE OF YOUR TOPSTITCHING If you want to make a feature of your topstitching, use a topstitch needle and topstitch thread. Use the topstitch thread on your spool but keep your regular thread in the bobbin (remember to sew with your garment right side up so that the topstitching thread is on the outside!). Lengthen the stitch length to 3.5mm to make your stitches look a little more pronounced. AVOIDING PROBLEMS Back tacking on the RS of your garment can look messy, but equally you don’t want your lovely neat topstitching to come undone. To secure your topstitching, leave loose tails of thread. Pull gently on your bobbin thread to pull a loop of your topstitching to the WS and then tie the threads in a double knot. Do any unpicking on the WS of your garment! 19

Reader Review Butterick B6551 Leanne Lee shares her take on this month’s mandarin collar dress W hen I was given silhouette the opportunity to a little make this Butterick better. B6551 pattern, I jumped at the chance, as I was drawn to its I enjoyed sewing this up, clean lines and summery look. but at one point I became I made my version in a floral stumped by the collar. It viscose from seemed to be Rainbow Fabrics too long, but that had been in after studying my stash for a I was the instructions while, waiting again I realised for a chance to the collar needed be used! drawn to to overhang by quite a way on I opted for its clean each side to fit. version B, with the open collar lines and I decided to and low curved make my own front and back bias binding summeryhems. I am only from the same 5’ 2”, so as a petite material, which sewist I always look was quite fiddly have to alter my with viscose. I patterns. My sizes made 1 inch bias are Bust 36”, binding and used Waist 30” Hips my bias binding 40”, so I decided to make size tool to make the two folds. I medium (12-14). I needed to sewed one ¼” fold to the right shorten the pattern by side and then topstitched it 6.5”, which I did by taking in place. 2” from the waistline and 4” from the hem. Overall, I’m really pleased with this summer dress I When I first tried this on have now added to my after making it, I made some wardrobe. I have already more adjustments to fit. I worn it to a special friend’s increased the slit length and wedding ceilidh party and needed to take in the side it swooshed brilliantly seams by about 2cm to fit my all night! Say hi to Leanne on Instagram craft.i.lee 20

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Use your PATTERN Gather ROUND Go with the flow in this gorgeous gathered dress with three sleeve variations VIEW A The shorter length version with a gathered tier creates a fun summer dress. Add the belt to change the silhouette We used We used Dotted Swiss Voile in Deep Blush, £9.99 per metre www.higgsandhiggs.com 22

VIEW B Try this mid-length version with longer sleeves for understated charm We used Dashwood Studio Bold and Bloom pink rayon, £16.50 per metre www.likesewamazing.com Michelle says… Depending on your fabric choice, this could be a party dress or pretty beach cover-up 23

MASTERCLASS CASINGS FOR ELASTIC Michelle shares her top stitching and fitting tips for fold-down casings This dress has a fold-down casing, which is created by folding the garment edge to the inside and stitching it into place. Creating a ‘tunnel’ around the neckline to thread elastic through not only makes for an easy to pull on garment with no fastening to sew, but also for easy fitting adjustments. Whilst best suited to straight edges, fold- down casings can be created on a curved edge, but in this instance it’s important to keep your casing narrow. Fold down ¼” to the inside of the garment. I often use ¼” wash-away quilting tape to do this. Press. Now you need to decide your desired depth for the channel. To ensure your elastic can move freely through the channel, the depth should be at least ¼” wider than the width of your elastic. However, too much extra depth will leave your casing looking loose and baggy. Make sure you have enough space to machine stitch along the lower edge of the casing and can still move the elastic easily through the channel. For extra neatness, you can stitch another row of stitching around the top of the fold. Leave a small opening on the lower edge of stitching for threading your flat elastic through. The required length of the elastic will depend on its stretchability, but a good guide is to take your measurement around the area of the body where you want your garment to sit and cut your elastic slightly less than this measurement, plus 3/8” for overlapping the elastic. To thread the elastic through the casing, attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and hold on tight to the other end! As you feed the elastic through with the safety pin, keep checking that the elastic hasn’t twisted. Join the ends of the elastic by overlapping them 3/8” and stitching a square on the overlapped area. You can reinforce with further zigzag stitches. Edgestitch the gap in the casing closed, with the elastic stretched slightly as you sew. 24

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We love BAGS Wedded ABOUT DEBBIE BLISS BAG Debbie von Grabler-Crozier Carry all your essentials in a perfectly-sized clutch designs modern homeware bag at your next special occasion and bag patterns. Discover Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER more about Debbie at www.thefolkartfactory.com and on Instagram craftyvamp Shop a wide range of modern bag patterns at www.thefolkart factory.etsy.com 26

ABCD E FGH MATERIALS & TOOLS: bottom strap strap. Fold the canvas in half the front. (See Pic F.) • 1 piece bias binding cut at lengthways WST and finger 6 Fuse the other piece of • ½ yd. canvas or similar-weight press to obtain a centre H630 to the wrong side fabric for the outer 1½” wide and 29” long for crease. Fold the two long of the lining, then fuse the the flap binding raw edges to the centre Decovil I Light over the top • ½ yd. quilting cotton for From the lining fabric: crease to make a strap 1½” of the H630. Lay interfaced the lining • 1 piece 12” wide x 9¼” tall for wide. On one end, open flap outer onto the double the flap lining strap out and fold end up by interfaced and untrimmed • ¾ yd. Style-vil foam interfacing • 2 pieces 13½” wide x 9¾” ½”. (See pics A & B.) lining wrong sides facing. • FQ H630 fusible fleece tall for the main front and 2 Re-fold this end, trimming Stitch sides and front with • Fat Eighth Decovil I Light back lining any excess fabric to make a the rounded corners. Trim all • 1 piece 7” wide x 13” tall for the closed end. Lightly glue the layers to match the canvas fusible interfacing inner zipper box pocket lining end to make it as perfect as outer. (See pics G & H.) Bind • Fat Eighth G740 • 4 pieces 13½” wide x 4½” tall possible. When the glue is with the bias binding. for the lined slip pockets dry, topstitch down one long 7 Pin long strap centrally to fusible interfacing • From the H630 interfacing: side, across the folded short the flap. Measure down 6” • 1½” wide gold rectangle ring • 2 pieces 12” wide x 9¼” tall for end, and back up the other from the back on each long • ½” gold anorak stud or the flap lining long side of the strap. side of the strap, mark and From the Decovil I Repeat with shorter strap. re-topstitch this going similar stud Light interfacing: (See Pic C.) through all layers. • 5” co-ordinating nylon zipper • 1 piece 12” wide x 9¼” tall for 3 On the shorter strap, make the flap interfacing a hole ¾” from the closed PREPARING THE BAG for the lining From the G740 fusible interfacing: end, right in the middle, and FRONT & BACK • clear drying glue suitable • 2 pieces 13½” wide x 4½” tall attach the female half of the for the slip pockets stud. Measure in a further 8 Attach the base trim to the for fabric 2½” and attach the male half. main front panel RST. Flip the • Co-ordinating threads for all PREPARING (See Pic D.) layers the right way out and THE STRAP 4 On the closed end of topstitch 1/8” along seam. Trim fabrics and trims the long strap, fold over and square the front panel and The strap is in two pieces; by 1” and enclose the attach it to a piece of slightly NOTES: the top is attached to the rectangle ring. On the wrong larger foam interfacing with a flap and is closed on one end side, hand stitch closed. machine basting stitch. Trim Seam allowances are all ¼” and with a rectangle ring, and (See Pic E.) excess foam back to seam have already been added the bottom strap emerges allowance. Centre shorter from the bottom seam and is PREPARING THE strap on the front of the CUTTING closed on one end with the FLAP bag right at the bottom, stud included. Both are made re-topstitch 1¾” on each side. From the canvas: using the same method. The 5 Fuse a piece of H630 to 9 For the back, attach the • 1 piece 11½” wide x 9” tall for closed part is only on one the flap outer and trim the base trim as you did in the end, and the other raw end interfacing back. Round the front and topstitch. Find the the flap outer will be hidden in the seam. two corners which will be at vertical centre of the back • 1 piece 13½” wide x 6½” tall for 1 Begin with the longer top the main front panel • 1 piece 13½” wide x 4½” tall for the main back panel • 1 piece 2¼” wide x 13½” long for the back panel top trim • 2 pieces 4” wide x 13½” long for the front and back base trims • 1 piece 6” wide x 11½” long for the front top strap • 1 piece 6” sq. for the front 27

panel and also the flap. With I JK MN RST and the centre marks matched, attach the flap to the top edge of the middle panel. With RST and the flap sandwiched in between, attach the top trim. (See Pic I.)  Open everything right way out and press. The weight of the flap will L encourage the seam to point downwards. Trim back panel, if needed, and attach to foam interfacing as you did for the front. Lengthen your machine stitch and topstitch the flap edge going through all layers. (See Pic J.)  Fit front and back panels together, match the base trim with seams up.  To make the zipper Check fit and make any box pocket, mark the adjustments necessary. vertical centre of one main bag lining and zipper PREPARING THE box pocket lining. Place LINING & POCKETS one short end of the  Fuse a piece of G740 zipper box pocket lining interfacing to two of RST onto the main lining the slip pocket pieces. These 1½” down from top edge, pieces will now be the pocket matching two vertical outers, and the un-interfaced centre marks. pocket pieces will be the  Working on the zipper lining. Place interfaced and box pocket lining itself now, Shopping list an un-interfaced piece RST, measure down 1” and draw Quilting weight cotton from Art Gallery Fabrics www.artgalleryfabrics.com sew the top and bottom long a sewing line horizontal Find your nearest UK stockist at www.hantex.co.uk or edges only. (See Pic K.) box 3/8” deep and 5” long European supplier at www.adlico.dk Turn right way out and press. (blue line). Down the Visit www.vlieseline.com to discover your local Vlieseline product supplier. Topstitch 1/8” along one long centre of this box, draw edge. Place pocket onto a another horizontal line piece of lining 1½” with two angles at each up from bottom edge. end. This will be the Attach by topstitching cutting line (purple line). the bottom edge and (See Pic L.) machine basting both  Sew around sewing ends to side of lining. line and cut along cutting ASSEMBLING the right way out and the THE BAG lining inside out, pull Pin the top edge line, including the lining over the outer  Sew outer front to outer and match side seams. The and vertically Top tip! the angles. Push back RST. Cut a ¾” square right sides of both outer topstitch to zipper box from the two lower corners. and lining should be facing. segment the pocket lining (See Pic O.) Tuck the flap down in pockets. through Box the corners. Turn the between the outer and bag outer the right way out. the lining.Sew around top Think Use a machine aperture. Push corners into place. Sew edge of bag, leaving no gaps. about what basting stitch to Topstitch lining pieces RST, leaving a Turn bag out through gap you will zipper onto turning gap in base seam. in lining. Close gap. Stuff Cut corner squares out, the lining down into the want to attach the panel to the aperture. ready for boxing. outer and push everything Fit lining into bag. Slightly into place. Topstitch twice put into the the foam (See Pic M.) increase seam allowance to around the top edge, 1/8” first pocket before  Working on get a good fit if necessary. and then ¼” below to finish. Box corners. With the outer deciding where the back, bring to segment. Repeat the other short end on the other side of of the lining up to meet the lining with the other the first and sew the sides lined slip pocket. and top to complete pocket. 28

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JOIN LOVE SEWING TODAY! 10 REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE: 1 SAVE money on every issue 2 FREE delivery direct to your door 3 NEVER miss an issue 4 BE THE FIRST to read Love Sewing 5 TWO patterns worth over £21 including one from The McCall Pattern Company in every issue 6 Exclusive promise to offer BRANDED PATTERNS in the widest size range 7 The BEST tutorials and projects from industry experts including Amy Scarr and Alison Smith MBE 8 BUILD your ultimate pattern collection 9 NEVER be short of sewing inspiration again 10 SPREAD the COST by Direct Debit or credit/debit card Exclusive designs from The McCall Pattern Company with every issue Love Sewing is packed with tips, tricks and clever ideas to keep you inspired month after month. Every issue includes a stunning paper pattern from The McCall Pattern Company, the best tutorials from industry experts plus exciting projects and inspiring articles. Whether you’re making unique garments, chic homeware and accessories, or fun embroidery projects, Love Sewing is the perfect addition to your sewing room. £21.99 EVERY How to pay: 3 MONTHS* SAVE 30% £87.99 FOR Credit/ 14 ISSUES Credit/ debit card debit card BEST OPTION *UK offer only. Minimum subscription term is 12 months, we reserve the right to request the gift is returned should the subscription be cancelled early. Subscription starts at the next available issue. We reserve the right to send an alternative gift should the book become unavailable. For overseas rates and other payment methods, please visit: www.moremags.com/subscriptions. This offer expires 31/10/2022.

SEWING BOOK BUNDLE WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE FREETO LOVE SEWING! Plus SAVE 30% on the cover price! Subscribe to Love Sewing and receive this fabulous sewing book bundle including The Great British Sewing Bee: The Modern Wardrobe & Wendy Ward’s Sewing Basics for Every Body How to order: Online: www.practicalsubs.com/7880 Call: 0161 327 0441 (QUOTE CODE: PLSEG110) Offer expires 31/10/2022

We love STYLE Shopping list Strawberry Fields organic cotton jersey in mint, £7.00 per half metre www.craftysewandso.com 32

Pick me PEPLUM TOP LAYPLAN: This fun casual tee is a great way to show off your favourite jersey prints Fabric 150cm/60ins wide Project FREYA GILBERT & SARAH WADEY from Crafty Sew & So www.craftysewandso.com ABC FOLD DE F FOLD MATERIALS & TOOLS: unless stated otherwise. wrong side. (See Pic B.) You We recommend using an overlocker will need to stretch the elastic • 2m of 150cm/60” wide or zigzag stitch on a sewing machine to fit the edge, this will gather jersey fabric to finish the edges and before the panel as you sew. Stitch constructing, using a straight stitch using a wide and long zigzag • Up to 1.6m of 1cm wide clear on the sewing machine. stitch. (See pics C & D.) elastic (see elastic cutting Make sure you’ve snipped or marked 2 Place the gathered edge chart for measurements) all your notches, especially those in of the peplum over the sleeve the centre front/back and centre opening, aligning the raw 200cm NOTES: of the peplums - you’re going to edges, and sew together. If need them! using an overlocker, take care All seam allowances are 1.5cm All fabrics are placed RST before not to cut off the elastic. Use a sewing unless stated otherwise. 6mm seam allowance (width SIZE CHART (CM): of the overlocking stitch) at HOW TO MAKE this seam. (See pics E & F.) Size XS S M L XL 3 Take one of the hem peplum 1 Join the front and back at panels and again, using clear Bust 82 92 102 114 126 the shoulder seams. (See Pic elastic, attach the elastic to A.) Using clear elastic, attach the top edge of the peplum, Waist 66 76 86 99 109 the elastic to the top-edge of aligning it with the raw the sleeve peplum, aligning edge on the wrong side and Hip 90 100 110 120 130 it with the raw edge on the ELASTIC CUTTING CHART (CM): Size XS S M L XL Sleeve x 2 37 38 39 41 43 Waist x 2 42 47 52 58 64 33

GH IJ stretching the elastic to fit other shoulder seam. Match all the other notches and then Top tip! the edge and gather the stretch the band evenly to fit panel. Repeat for between the notches around the other. the neck opening. Use plenty 4 Place one of the of pins or clips.  Starting at the shoulder Keep tacking stitches gathered peplums seam, stitch the band to the neck opening using a stretch in the folded neckband over front, aligning stitch, stretching the band as loose so you can still the raw edges, and you sew. Keep checking the sew together, again neckline underneath the band stretch it using a 6mm allowance to make sure all the edges are staying aligned. at this seam. Repeat for  Press the neckline seam allowances towards the the back. (See Pic G.) body and topstitch with a 3-step zigzag or twin needle. 5 With right sides together, (See Pic J.) and matching the seams, join Freya and Sarah co-own Crafty Sew & So, a Leicester-based the front to the back at the fabric shop and sewing studio. side seams, and sleeve and They launched their pattern peplum seams. range, My Handmade Wardrobe Patterns, in 2017 and design 6 Hem the sleeve peplum modern sewing patterns that everyone can sew. Visit and the main body peplum www.craftysewandso.com for more! by either turning up 1cm and stitching using a twin needle or 3-step zigzag stitch. (See pics H & I.) 7 Join the neckband with right sides together to create a circle. 8 Press the neckband in half width-ways so you create a long thin band. If your fabric is particularly thin and rolls you may wish to hand tack or machine baste close to the open edge to hold the two layers together.  With right sides together, pin the neckband onto the outside of the neck opening, aligning the raw edges. Start by lining up the back neck notches with the shoulder seam. The neckband join seam should align with the 34

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MACHINE REVIEW Janome Continental M17 Sews up to We explore the high-definition embroidery, 1,300 stitches quilting and sewing capabilities of JANOME’s per minute! new Continental M17 JANOME is one of the world’s leading sewing machine manufacturers. The Japanese brand has been synonymous with quality sewing machines for nearly a century, with the brand’s much-loved and trusted machines now sold in more than 100 countries worldwide. The latest machine to join the JANOME family is the revolutionising Janome Continental M17, for hi-definition embroidery, quilting and sewing. Priced at £13,999, this next-generation combination machine has been designed for the seriously dedicated and ambitious sewist. This ground-breaking model boasts many industry-leading features such as the largest sewing area in the industry and a powerful motor that provides the industry’s fastest stitching speeds. The Janome Continental M17 is the brand’s first machine to feature its new stitch regulation system (the AcuStitch Regulator), which has four feet, including an exclusive ruler work foot. Machine quilters will love that all their free-motion needs are met and that as their skills build they can adjust the sensitivity of the sensor. The use of JANOME’s legendary Acufeed Layered Fabric Feeding System for amazing precision and power has been taken to the next level, with the two AcuFeed feet advancing fabric flawlessly from the top and bottom. Embroiderers are spoilt for choice with adjustments in all areas of sewing. What’s DISCOVER MORE 1,230 built-in embroidery designs and the more, the machine’s powerful motor means Embroidery Link app enables endless that the needle can penetrate through up Discover more about customised and edited designs. The to 13 layers of denim! JANOME at Janome Continental M17 offers the largest hoops and embroidery area ever and the Dressmakers, quilters and embroiderers www.janome.com four included hoops have a new easy-to- will all love the nine ultra-bright LED and discover your nearest hoop lever system. lights in four locations to illuminate JANOME sewing machine the bed of the machine. For more focus, stockist. Plus, check out Another industry first, the CM17 features the machine also includes three special www.janome.com/learn for a thumb wheel located to the right of magnifying glasses at three levels of sewing webinars, tutorials, the needle, so no more reaching over magnification. Together these features local and virtual events and to the handwheel to raise or lower the reduce eye strain, enabling you to sew for needle. The needle itself can move into hours in comfort. With all the machine's much more! an incredible 91 positions, allowing for capabilities and features the creative more detail in decorative stitches and fine possibilites are endless! 38

ABOUT AMY SCARR Amy is the UK Brand Ambassador for Simplicity Ltd, which produces all your favourite brands – Vogue, McCall’s, Butterick, New Look and Simplicity, available at www.sewdirect.com. She shares tips and tutorials, fresh ideas and the best of the sewing community at simplicitymccallsuk on Instagram SEW FAUX fabulous Discover tips and pattern recommendations for sewing faux suede and leather with Amy Scarr, Brand Ambassador of Simplicity Ltd 39

Use leftover fabric to sew a M8272 bag TOP TIPS Modern faux/synthetic leathers and Welt and double welt seams suedes are great to work with and look These are similar to a lapped seam. FOR SEWING fabulous without the ethical issues. Welt seams are particularly suitable for While they are similar in look and heavyweight fabric, such as faux leather. FAUX FABRICS feel to their natural counterparts, Again, the seam is formed with two rows they rarely need neatening and can of straight stitching. Sew a regular seam ✂ Many faux suedes will have a fuzzy be handled in the same manner when with right sides together. Having stitched surface texture, so when brushed seaming and constructing a garment. the seam, grade the seam allowances one way will look darker than when Varieties include faux suede, suedette, to reduce bulk. Trim the under-seam brushed the other way. So always use Ultrasuede, leatherette and pleather. allowance to 6mm. Then, working from the 'with nap' layout on a pattern – the right side, sew again 6-13mm from the making sure all pieces are positioned CHOOSING PATTERNS first seam, catching the untrimmed seam in the same direction. allowance in the stitching (this will encase For your first project with synthetic the trimmed seam allowance) at the same ✂ Avoid pins, as they will leave suede or faux leather, choose a time. A double welt seam has another row permanent holes. Alternatively, use design that has minimal seaming of stitching close to the seamline. binding clips, paperclips or even and is simple to construct. Look at bulldog clips to hold seams together the suggested fabrics on the pattern Flat felled before stitching. If you must pin, pin envelope – look for medium-weight Used on sportswear and simple reversible ONLY within the seam allowance. woven fabrics such as gabardine, garments or where the inside will be double crêpe etc – if a pattern can be visible, such as on unlined garments, this ✂ Use a new sharp Universal needle, made in this type of fabric, it will also seam technique sews and neatens the seam size 90/14 for medium-weight fabric. look good in synthetic suede. Feel the allowances, with the seam allowances You shouldn’t need a special leather 'handle' of your chosen faux leather on the right side of the fabric. As with a needle for faux fabric, as it’s less rough or suede – how does it drape and French seam, first stitch a regular seam and tough. with wrong sides together. Press seam fold? Will it cope with a collar or be allowances together to one side. Trim the ✂ Use a Teflon-coated presser foot to help too stiff, can you gather or pleat it under seam allowance to 3mm. Tuck under glide over the fabric. In a pinch you or is it too bouncy or firm? Consider the the raw edge of the upper seam allowance can apply Sellotape to the bottom of handle when choosing your design. and press in place (if preferred, baste in your machine foot, cutting a gap for the place). Stitch close to the fold from the needle. This will leave a sticky residue DIFFERENT SEAMS TO USE right side. when removed, so keep this in mind. Lapped seam SEAM FINISHES ✂ Always use a pressing cloth made of These are perfect for fabrics that don't organza or scrap fabric when pressing fray, such as faux suedes, leathers and One of the best things about faux leather seams to prevent damage to the fabric fleece. Fabric edges are overlapped rather and synthetic suede is that they don't or unwanted shine. than sewn with right sides together, with fray, so you don't need to neaten seam two rows of straight stitching used. Lap allowances. Where you can use the seams ✂ Consider the type of seam and finish vertical seams away from the centre and above, you won't need to do anything you want. As these fabrics rarely fray, horizontal seams down. On the fabric more. However, on a straight stitched you don't need to neaten seam edges, that will overlap, mark the stitching line, seam you may want to do something for but may want to add something for then trim the seam allowance away to a neater finish. aesthetic reasons. within 2-3mm of this marked line. Place the cut edge over the other fabric piece, right side on top of right side, so that the marked stitching line just overlaps the stitching line of the under piece. Stitch the first row along marked stitching line. Stitch again, in the same direction 6-13mm from the first row, catching the seam allowance of the under piece in the stitching. Reducing bulk Seam allowances that are encased may need to be trimmed in order to reduce the bulk within the seam area. This can be done by clipping and notching (on curved edges, clip diagonally into inner curves and cut wedge-shaped notches from outer curves). You can also trim and grade. Grading is simply cutting the two seam allowances to a different width, which cuts 40

bias tapedown the bulk of the fabric and prevents Top-stitched seam Sew a faux suede trench coat unsightly ridges showing through on the This is a seam finish that can be functional using Butterick 6793 right side. Trim the seam allowance closest or decorative. It helps make the seam to the main fabric to 6mm, and the under more durable, as well as providing a Try a fly front skirt seam allowance to 3mm. crisp edge. For simple top stitching, use in faux leather matching thread and straight stitch. If with McCall’s 8149 Pinked edges sewing lightweight fabric, press neatened You can neaten straight stitched seams seam allowances together to one side, then with pinking shears to reduce the seam working from the right side, 6mm from allowance and provide a neat finish. the edge, catching seam allowance in the Cut to within 6mm of the seam. Press stitching. For heavier-weight fabrics, press seams open. seam allowances open and topstitch from right side down both sides of the seam. Bound seams These are often used in tailored garments, Topstitched finish particularly if the inside might be visible. Also known as a Hong Kong finish, (WS) the seam allowances are bound with bias binding tape or special tricot seam Hemming binding tape that folds in two, encasing the Often, faux leather and synthetic suedes raw edges. Use straight stitch on woven do not need hemming. The edges can be fabric and zigzag stitch on knit fabric, left raw. If you are using a pattern that stitching through tape and seam allowance, includes a hem allowance, cut off the hem catching both top and underside of tape at allowance using a rotary cutter/mat and the same time. ruler to get a lovely clean line. If you wish to turn up a hem, use strong fusible hem stitch seam webbing rather than stitching to provide allowance only a clean finish. You can trim the edge of the hem allowance with pinking shears to fold over then stitch cut down on any possible ridge showing in the ditch through. Turn up the hem allowance and insert the double-sided webbing. Cover with a press cloth and press from the inside. Use Vogue 1848 to make a modern pair of leather-look trousers 41

We love STYLE Try lengthening or shortening the duster for a different look ABOUT THE BOOK You Will Be Able to Sew Your Own Clothes by the End of This Book by Juliet Uzor (Ilex Press £19.99) 42

Juliet’s Jasmine DUSTER The grown- JACKET on sleeves don’t need Quick-sew your way to a stylish but stoepbaeraintesleyrted simple duster for easy, understated elegance when the weather cools Project JULIET UZOR Photography KIM LIGHTBODY MATERIALS & TOOLS: CUTTING press seams open. A 3 Sew the side seams RST. • light- to medium-weight Front - Cut 1 one pair Clip into the underarm underneath. The notch woven fabric (for amount, Back - Cut 1 on the fold seam allowance, avoiding marked SS on the neckband see fabric chart) Neckband - Cut 2 pairs stitching. Finish raw edges should match the shoulder and press seams open. seam on the duster. Sew from • Pattern downloaded from HOW TO MAKE 4 With RST, sew one pair of one end of the duster to www.craftworld.com/cms/ neckbands together at the the other. love-sewing 1 Staystitch around the back centre back (CB). Press the 9 Finish the raw edge on the neckline to stop the fabric seam open; there’s no need seam allowance and press NOTES from stretching out of shape. to finish raw edges at this towards the duster. 2 Sew the front to the back point. Repeat with the second  At the bottom edge of the All seam allowances are 1.5cm at the shoulder seams RST. pair of neckbands. duster, finish the raw edge. unless stated otherwise Finish raw edges and 5 With RST, matching the CB Fold over and press 2.5cm to seams and notches, sew the the wrong side, pin and sew LAYPLAN: two long neckbands together close to the edge. along the inner seam line.  Finish the raw edge of FABRIC CHART (IN METRES) Clip into the seam allowance the sleeves. Fold over and and press towards the press 1.5cm to the wrong neckband. (See Pic A.) side, pin and sew close to the 6 Understitch the edge to finish. seam allowances onto one neckband. 7 Fold the neckband so that the wrong sides are together and press. 8 With RST, pin the neckband to the opening of the front of the duster, making sure the understitched side is Garment Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 Fabric Quantity 2.09 2.13 2.14 2.15 2.17 2.18 2.2 2.52 2.64 2.67 2.7 2.7 MEASUREMENT CHART (IN CM) Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 BUST 79 84 86 92 97 102 107 112 117 122 127 132 WAIST 64 66 69 71 76 81 89 97 102 107 112 117 HIP 89 92 94 97 102 107 112 117 122 127 132 137 43

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BEHIND THE SEAMS SEWING ABOUT FOR KIDS! RUTH BROWN In our last issue, we talked about sewing with kids, Ruth is a writer and maker with a special now we’re sewing for them! If you’re new to sewing interest in creativity. Find out more at for little’uns, read on to find out how to get started www.grinlowstudio.com BY RUTH BROWN 45

FAB FOUR If you’re new to sewing clothes for children, is made super easy with a company a great place to get started is with the like McCall’s, because the basic block paper patterns made by what used to be remains the same across patterns, so called ‘the big four’. Here at Love Sewing, measurements usually align, making we are big fans of Butterick and McCall’s seams and details easy to match. patterns, and McCall’s in particular has a huge range of patterns for kids – all fairly My daughter loves to draw a picture of fashion-forward and fun. a dress and then see how I recreate it. I am now confident enough to draft her a If you’re looking for pattern from scratch, but something dressy, Butterick sometimes I return to the 6654 is a gorgeous wrap big four for an easier – and It’s nice to seedress with curved hem and quicker – ride, and I’m always grateful for the flutter sleeves, and best of all, it comes in both adult the things we simplicity it offers as a and child sizes, with child system for generating new sizes going up to age eight labour over and interesting designs. years old. For something enjoyed, like REMAKE AND summery and fun try McCall’s 7558, a lovely a delicious REVIVE tiered dress with lots of cake sleeve options. For reliable Over the years, I have developed quite a pile basics, look no further of unworn homemade than McCall’s 7379 – a clothing. Some of it great staples pattern, with bodged, some of it a case a raglan tee, vest and cargo of wrong pattern or wrong pants. McCall’s 7079, meanwhile, fabric, and some of it just not quite how I is a fab t-shirt dress with a whopping thought it would turn out. seven alternatives. As I become more conscious of the The Lowland Hoodie by Lowlands Kids Patterns like McCall’s 7918, which wastage involved, I’m now more careful is a brilliant – and free! – way to start sewing for kids features a cute top with trousers, are great about what I sew. I still make the wardrobe builders, while the best shorts occasional error of judgement, and pattern I’ve used, possibly ever, is McCall’s that’s when having small people to sew 7966. I’ve also made a few versions of for becomes a handy way to prevent McCall’s 7518 – a brilliant onesie pattern misguided sewing adventures ending up at for all the family – including the pet dog! the recycling plant. FABULOUS FREEBIES If the garment is good enough to pass on to a charity shop, I will usually do that Another great way to make kids clothes first (subject to the limitations imposed is to look into the mind-boggling array by charity shops – see our feature in of free sewing patterns online. If you issue 108 to learn more about this). If not, have a printer and don’t mind spending I will take the material and turn it into a little time cutting and sticking together something for my kids. I’ve been doing PDF patterns (the bonus is patterns for this for years. Sometimes I will wear children take up far fewer sheets of paper!), something a few times and realise it’s then you can find patterns for almost any not quite right, then a few weeks later it garment imaginable online by searching will be reincarnated into something tiny ‘free sewing patterns for kids’. and new. This happened to a spotty Tilly and the Buttons pinafore dress, the floral I particularly love the Waves and Wild viscose lining of a coat, and a few ill-fitting Lightning Leggings and the Lowland Kids t-shirts. Lowland Hoodie – great unisex patterns available in a huge size range (from baby to Something to bear in mind when pre-teen). Both are easy to cut out and sew, redrafting existing clothing into clothes and great for batch sewing. for children is where the grainline lays on the original garment and make sure you HAPPY HACKING stick to that when cutting out new pattern pieces. Sometimes that means a garment Once you have a stash of paper patterns, that looks as if it will have plenty of fabric you can have fun creating ‘frankenpatterns’ by mixing and matching features. This 46

is actually not so well-suited to your whizzed them up on the overlocker. Super McCall's 7379 is a great basics pattern chosen redesign – so always be sure to try satisfying and useful to boot! with top, trousers and shorts your pattern pieces out before cutting. SIZE MATTERS Money-saving COPY CAT Finally, I will close with a cautionary tale. TIPS Another way to create children’s clothing I’ve learned the hard way that factoring in without patterns is to trace existing ‘growth’ to sizing choice is a risky business. FORfoSrEkWidsING garments. This is a great move if a Sometimes sizing up, while it feels sensible, beloved garment no longer fits and you doesn’t pay. Last year I made my eight year 1 Search online ‘free sewing patterns want to recreate something similar. This old a new dress and opted to trace the age for kids’ to explore the wealth of free does involve a little grading up, so is 10 because then, I reasoned, she’d get a few patterns available to download perhaps for the more confident sewist, summers out of it. WRONG! The dress but there are plenty of tutorials online to was not only too big for her in the here 2 Trace existing garments to create help guide the way, and you can always and now, but it gaped unforgivingly at the your own free pattern use an existing pattern to get a rough centre front. indication of where the grading lines 3 Mix and match features from should fall. She loved it and danced around the house different patterns to create multiple for about an hour, but I noticed she didn’t different garments I often find that I can just tell by the fit on wear it once over the summer. She’s now my child where and how I need to grade heading for ten, but she is small for her 4 Turn your unworn me-made items up – usually at the sides and in the length age and I suspect by the time she’s the into something smaller! for the most part, with ever so slight right size for it she will be completely over changes, if anything, around trickier the style… 5 Use leftover fabric for sewing areas such as arm scythes, necklines co-ordinating items such as and crotch curves. If you’re interested in My advice would be to go for the right size hats and scarves learning more about pattern cutting and and, if you really want to err on the side design, working on children’s wear is an of caution, take a smaller seam allowance Find free kids sewing patterns excellent way to get started. (Big 4 children patterns usually include a at www.craftworld.com ⅝” seam allowance, which is pretty huge MULTIPLE MAGIC given the scale). It’s nice to see the things we labour over enjoyed, like a delicious If you are at all familiar with the ripped cake. And when they are finally outgrown, knees of particularly active children, then inevitable when sewing for children, making a spare pair of bottoms will never they can be passed on or reworked into go amiss. If you have enough fabric, it’s something new. always satisfying creating a production line and watching the little pairs pile up. The same goes for other basics – while you have the overlocking thread in situ, it’s always worth getting what you can out of a fabric there and then. When I made my little boy a onesie recently, I cut out a small hat and scarf at the same time and 47

‘MAKING IT - NOT WASTING IT!’ Let’s do our bit by not letting textiles and pre-made clothing end up in landfill. Discover your hidden talents by joining Buttons and Bows at their creative workshops. Classes will cover: ✂ Structured sessions ✂ Open sessions where you can bring in projects that you are working on ✂ Supporting Charities making/ donating items made Crafts include: Sewing - Appliqué - Embroidery - Knitting - Crochet - Working with Felt & Needle Felting - Upcycling clothing and other items - Cross Stitch - Macrame ✂ Stalls 133 Stevenage Indoor Market , SG1 1EP Buttons and Bows ‘Making It’ Workshop, SG1 1EP ✂ Daily sessions 07396499085, Facebook: Buttons and Bows plus Fabric 48

We love HOME Vintage-Inspired SUMMER CUSHIONS Give your bedroom a summer makeover with pretty pompom-trimmed cushions Project JANET GODDARD ABOUT Shopping list JANET GODDARD All fabrics used are from the Open Heart collection designed by Maureen Cracknell for Art Gallery Fabrics, Janet teaches patchwork and quilting classes and is the author supplied by www.hantex.co.uk of four books on patchwork, 49 applique and bag making. You can find Janet at www.patchworkpatterns.co.uk or on Instagram at janetpatch1

AB C MATERIALS & TOOLS: D E F For two cushions • ¾m peach fabric for the envelope backs • 7 floral strips for the cushion fronts (width of fabric 2 ½\") • 2 (12½ x18½\") rectangles of calico for the foundations • 2 (12½x18½\") rectangles of wadding • 1 ¾m blue pompom trim • 1 ¾m pink pompom trim • thread to match • 2 cushion pads NOTES: Finished size: 12x18\" (30x45cm) Fabric strips are stitched either vertically or diagonally using a stitch and flip method, which is quilted as you go. Each cushion is finished with an envelope back. Use a ¼” seam throughout unless stated otherwise. This project is suitable for strips from a strip or jelly roll CUTTING From the peach fabric cut: • 2 (12½x10\") rectangles • 2 (12½x 15½\") rectangles From the fabric strips cut: • 9 (2½x12½\") strips (these are needed for cushion one. The remaining strips are used for cushion two and are cut as you stitch) HOW TO MAKE second strip away from the braid to the outer edge of 3 Place the rectangle with first so that the right side of the cushion front to finish. the folded edge on top of Vertical stripes cushion: the strip is facing upwards, (See Pic E.) the cushion front, right sides 1 Pin or spray baste the finger press and pin in place. facing, folded edge in the wadding to the reverse of (See Pic B.) Diagonal stripes cushion: middle and pin around the the calico rectangle. 5 Continue in this way, 1 Take one (12½x10\") outer edge. Pin the second 2 Decide on the order adding the strips until all nine peach rectangle and one rectangle onto the cushion of the placement of the strips are used to cover the (12½x15½\") peach rectangle front so that the stitched edge fabric strips. wadding. (See pics C & D.) and on one short edge of overlaps the first rectangle in 3 Place the first strip on top of 6 To add the pink pompom each press under ¼\" to the the centre. Ensure that the the wadding/calico rectangle trim, lay the trim around the wrong side of the fabric and pompoms are kept facing so that the right side of the edge of the cushion front stitch down. towards the centre of the strip is facing upwards on so that the braid holding the 2 On the (12½x15½\") cushion. (See Pic F.) top of the wadding and the pompoms is on the outer rectangle, on the stitched 4 Stitch around outer edge. strip is lined up with one of edge and the pompoms are edge fold over 2in so that Clip corners and turn through the 12½\" edges. Pin in place. facing in towards the centre. wrong sides are facing, press to finish. (See Pic A.) 7 Using a 1/8\" seam, stitch the and pin in place. 4 Place the second strip on top of the first, RST, pin in place and stitch the raw edges together using a ¼\" seam, stitching through the wadding and calico. Flip this 50