Harper's Bazaar UK June 2022

anROtouchesWtransportN yoEC ACCESSORIES TartSTATEu to the Borders ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: £420 Vivienne GETTY IMAGES Westwood June 2022 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 51

ACCESSORIES £1,085 £210 Acne Chanel Studios £590 £214 Prada Dolce & Gabbana Ring, £390 £2,300 Dior Erdem £715 Jia Jia £2,100 Gucci £205 Celine by Hedi Slimane £725 Manolo Blahnik From a selection £225 Loewe Louis Vuitton £3,900 Kiki £645 From a selection McDonough Manolo Ralph Lauren Blahnik Collection £1,650 Loewe Bestride your ancestral acres in rich reds and earthy terracotta tones £380 Molly Goddard £260 Etro £490 £680 Hermès Giovanni Raspini £1,550 Celine by £965 £1,950 Hedi Slimane Chanel Prada £1,945 Chanel £710 Etro £905 Chanel £160 Giovanni Raspini £725 Louis £535 £605 Vivienne PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELATE Vuitton Gucci Westwood 52 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | June 2022 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk





AT WORK Edited by FRANCES HEDGES £195 Burberry Hair slide, £75 hotograph by P Simone Rocha Satin Kajal Liner in Olive, £22 Victoria Beckham Beauty L-PA LMER P Notebook, AUL ZAKFrom a £95 selection Styled by RO Vacheron Smythson Constantin SIE ARKEL Cardholder, £150 £190 Vivienne Burberry at Westwood Matchesfashion Ring, £4,100; bracelet, from Necklace, from a a selection, both Graff selection Graff Sea Daffodil Cologne, £112 Earrings, from a selection Graff for 100ml Jo Malone London CHOAFINS Platinum OFFICE Pep8 Stem Cell Make a regal statement with Serum, £185 asleeklink-handlebagfit for Sarah a head of state Chapman £2,090 Alexander McQueen

HGALPOPRYI&OUS What goes into planning the nation’s biggest I t’s a bright but chilly March morning, and Rosanna Machado party? As the organiser of the Queen’s Jubilee has just returned from open-water swimming in Hackney’s celebrations, Rosanna Machado understands West Reservoir, where the water was a bracing nine degrees. the importance of clear communication and ‘That’s actually quite warm by my standards,’ she says, a calm approach for bringing joy to the nation cheerfully. ‘Swimming gives me such a wonderful feeling – it’s so PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD PHIBBS, COURTESY By FRANCES HEDGES OF ROSANNA MACHADO, GETTY IMAGES calming and energising. My team know that if I don’t start my day 56 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | June 2022 in the water, I won’t be a good leader.’ It’s fortunate that Machado knows how to unwind, because her schedule looks set to remain fairly unrelenting between now and the start of June. As the CEO of the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee Pageant, she is accountable for the success of our most momentous national celebration since the London 2012 Olympics – in which, inciden- tally, she also had a personal stake, having worked on the city’s Olympic bid back in 2005. Indeed, Machado is no stranger to large- scale events: following an economics degree at Cambridge and www.harpersbazaar.com/uk

AT WORK a stint organising exams for the Royal Academy time thinking about the highlights of her life of Music, she has built up an impressive CV in Rosanna and her values,’ says Machado. From hosting events management that has included senior Machado a parade of puppet corgis to recreating the roles on the planning teams for the G8 Summit extraordinary moment in 1952 when the young and the 2012 Thames Diamond Jubilee Pageant. Princess Elizabeth learnt of her accession to ‘I’m fascinated by how you can get people to the throne while on a Royal Tour of Kenya, work together in a big team,’ she says. ‘For me, the Pageant will offer a masterclass in story- it’s all about empathy and relationships – first, telling (with hopefully a few celebrity guest you have to understand what motivates your appearances along the way – though Machado stakeholders, and then you can think about is tight-lipped about whether we can expect how to bring them on the journey with you.’ another Olympics-style James Bond scene). It When those stakeholders are the entire SMOOTH will also explore how much Britain has evolved British public, the challenge must be all the OPERATOR since the start of Elizabeth II’s reign. ‘You think more daunting. ‘It’s true that you feel a respon- about all the new technology that’s come into sibility to a lot of people, as well as having Rosanna Machado’s use – the theme of constancy and change has a vested interest of your own,’ admits Machado. been very present in our minds,’ she says. While ‘But you have to stay focused on the task in rules for event planning in some ways, what the public wants from a hand so that it doesn’t become overwhelming. pageant has hardly altered since the Silver Every project, however high profile, has an Balance the books Jubilee back in 1977, the rise of digital media has outcome you want to achieve, and my role is to Ask yourself three questions: opened up opportunities to involve a larger navigate the best way to get there.’ what are you trying to achieve, cross-section of society. ‘All three Jubilee events Keeping a clear head was essential when will it have the impact you want have set out to unite people with their neigh- she was brought in to streamline operations for and can you afford it? bours and encourage them to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee Pageant – a remit that together, but this time round, social media turned out to be rather wider than she had ini- Step away from the detail allows us to be even more inclusive.’ tially anticipated. ‘I was shown a sketch of the Sometimes you need to In this regard, the project is as much about river, but I had no idea of the scale of the event extricate yourself from the looking to the future as the past. ‘I’m deter- in terms of the fund-raising, the marketing, day-to-day running of the event mined to make a positive social impact,’ says the constant communication,’ she recalls. in order to take a helicopter view. Machado. ‘That means thinking about what Still, the months of intensive planning paid off we’re doing in communities and what our when the public came out in droves to watch Be firm but fair legacy will be.’ Initiatives include challenging the procession, despite the pouring rain. ‘When Listen to different viewpoints, schoolchildren in the UK and the Common- I saw the Royal Family stand up to hear the but be prepared to deliver a wealth to design flags based around the UN choir sing, it made the whole thing worthwhile,’ verdict not everyone likes. Sustainable Development Goals, some of which says Machado, who was ironically among the will be shown during the Pageant; hosting local few viewers not on the riverbank, having been Admit responsibility theatre events; and running a photography watching on CCTV from a police control room. There will always be things that competition inspired by the concept of a ‘com- ‘The funny thing was that when I eventually go wrong on the day. Instead of monwealth of kindness’. Working with creative came out after the event had finished, the river pointing the finger, take organisations was important to Machado at was still closed off but completely empty, as if collective ownership and focus a time when so many have been hard hit by the it had never happened – very surreal…’ on how to move forwards. pandemic. ‘This is a chance to revitalise an Building on the success of the 2012 cele- industry that has suffered hugely,’ she explains. brations, the team’s starting point for planning the Having trained as an executive coach, Machado Platinum Jubilee Pageant was to reflect on key mile- is keen for everyone involved in organising the stones from the Queen’s reign. ‘We’ve spent a lot of Pageant to flourish and develop. This extends from designing packs to help community organisers galvanise support, right down to running work- shops on themes such as emotional intelligence. As a leader, she draws inspiration from the Queen herself: ‘The way she has maintained such integrity and humility over seven decades; her kindness and generosity are an example to me.’ Although much of the planning for the Pageant Left and above: has, inevitably, had to take place remotely, Machado the Queen is excited by the prospect of coming together as both a team and a nation. ‘However much we’ve adapted to hybrid celebrating her working, there is still a magic and electricity that arises from bringing Diamond Jubilee in 2012 people together physically – it’s a shared moment when you feel something special,’ she says. With such capable leadership, the celebrations are bound to be very special indeed. www.harpersbazaar.com/uk June 2022 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 57



ARTWORK: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND GOODMAN GALLERY TALKING POINTS Edited by CHARLOTTE BROOK TCHORMEMAODNS Ghada Amer draws together art and language to express the rich variety inherent in the female experience. Plus: Sarah Solemani’s #MeToo comedy; Jhumpa Lahiri’s bilingual literary epiphany; and Minnie Driver finds solace in the sea ‘Austrian Dream- RFGA’ (detail; 2008) by Ghada Amer

EXHIBITIONS Left: detail of ‘Elohim’ (2022) by Ghada Amer. Right: ‘100 Words of Love’ (2010) W hile she was studying for WMAORRKDSHER her art degree in Nice in the 1980s, Ghada Amer The artist Ghada Amer was refused entry to a uses a powerful creative painting class because it was reserved for vocabulary to confront male students. This prompted her to scour our preconceptions the university’s library for books about of womanhood female painters, only to discover there were none. ‘I thought, “So, painting is a male field, it’s a male medium,”’ she says. ‘I was very upset – but anger is the motivator of my work.’ Born in Cairo, raised in the South of France and now living in New York, Amer has been practising art for 30 years. Her output encompasses embroidery, sculpture, large-scale garden installations and acrylic on canvas, all imbued with bold, feminist messaging. She often uses dichotomies to challenge the objectification of women: among her most striking pieces are nude female figures in brazen sexual poses depicted delicately in thread, tangled stainless-steel wire sculptures with womanly forms that defiantly hold the gaze of their viewer; and bulky, stacked blocks printed with extracts from the mediaeval erotic Arabic text The Encyclopaedia of Pleasure. Some of these will go on show at Mayfair’s Goodman Gallery this month for Amer’s first London exhibition in 20 years, which will also see the artist unveil her inaugural indoor garden. Later this year, Amer will collaborate with Dior on the newest iteration of its classic Lady Dior handbag, for which she has drawn inspiration from her ‘Women’s Qualities’ series, involving planters arranged into words commonly associated with the female gender. The project began in 2000 at the Busan Biennale, where the adjectives chosen by people on the street included ‘sensual’, ‘diligent’ and ‘virtuous’; over the course of two months, these descriptors bloomed into striking red flowers. ‘Nobody said “intelli- gent”, but I added that,’ says Amer, wryly. Written quotations championing female liberation and education, whether from literature, the internet or protest placards, frequently influence and inform Amer’s work. ‘The mind is very powerful; it functions with words,’ she says. ‘And I am always listening.’ ‘Ghada Amer: My Body, My Choice’ is at Goodman Gallery (www.goodman-gallery.com) until 28 May. EVENTS Above: ‘Confidence’ (detail; 2022) NATU R E’ S J E WELS Marvel at a transformed Tower of London as the moat fills with bright wildflowers from more than 20 million specially planted seeds in celebration of the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee. ‘Superbloom’ is at the Tower of London (www.hrp.org.uk) from 1 June to 18 September.

E N T E RTA I N M E N T SHOW TIME BOOKS Summer spectacles WHAT THE to lift your spirits WA T E R G AV E M E The actress Minnie Driver on her Ballet Under the Stars at Hatch House enduring relationship with the ocean The beautiful Arts and Crafts garden at Wiltshire’s Hatch House is the setting for an annual dance event known as ‘the Minnie Driver Glyndebourne of ballet’; guests will surfing and enjoy a sumptuous three-course dinner swimming. interspersed with performances by the Covent Garden Dance Company. Below: Driver with her 22 to 24 July mother in (www.coventgardendance.com). 1973 When my mother was dying last year, mother was smiling and radiant, pointing I prayed to the ocean, not God. At night, with excitement at the murky chop up outside the hospital in London, I would stand ahead, holding my hand as we ran. I knew in the orangey swill of the sodium street- that, however grizzly the sea looked (and it light, close my eyes, and put myself by the did), it must be something great because ocean in California, where I live. I could see the joy my mother felt for it. ‘Can you give her back or receive her, Maybe that’s where it started. The ignition please?’ of my unconditional ocean love was my Legally Blonde at Regent’s Park Then, I would listen for the swish of the mother’s glee. Open Air Theatre waves, see myself diving in and swimming When I moved to New York at 24, I put Directed by Lucy Moss, this all-singing, long, sure strokes under the water. I would a whole ocean between me and the family all-dancing production brings the repeat my entreaty in a gargled blurb, just I loved and didn’t particularly need to get chihuahua-carrying force of nature that to make sure it was really heard. away from. Sometimes in the first year, over- is Elle Woods to one of north London’s The ocean is a very practical deity with whelmed and homesick, I would take a bus loveliest green spaces. only a few prescriptions as its credo: swim, out to Long Island and stand on the beach 13 May to 2 July (www.openairtheatre.com). surf, float, dive, sail, perish, survive. My love with the flinty Atlantic and feel calmer. My for it is similarly uncomplicated. panic having run out with the land, I’d stand I realise I have been taking all the dif- there with the obvious, and not profound, PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND GOODMAN ferent parts of my life to the ocean since idea that the ocean will get you to stop. GALLERY, COURTESY OF MINNIE DRIVER, GETTY IMAGES I was very small. It has always felt both I have now found my way to living beside comforting and dispassionate. Somewhere to the Pacific, which, in my opinion, is the play, to escape; a place that was big enough greatest and kindest of all the oceans. When to accommodate unwieldy emotions and you swim a lot, different bodies of water didn’t mind being a repository for them feel like trying on a new skin, and from the Little Women at Opera Holland Park either. My mother taught me moment I dived into the waves Louisa May Alcott’s beloved children’s to swim in the sea at West in California, it felt oddly like novel, set to music by the American Wittering on the Sussex coast coming home. It was as pow- composer Mark Adamo, gets its UK when I was about two. The erful as a mother; as wonderful premiere in Opera Holland Park’s grey sand gave way to grey as my own. glorious canopied auditorium. water only once you’d walked ‘Managing Expectations’ by Selected dates from 22 July to 5 August the endless stretch of low tide. Minnie Driver (£20, Manilla (www.operahollandpark.com). It was cold and windy, but my Press) is published on 12 May. www.harpersbazaar.com/uk June 2022 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 61

TALKING POINTS EXHIBITIONS G EX A MPLEploreshowTiffany’sglitteringhistoryinfl CharlotteSHINBrookI exNuences its bold new creationsClockwise from below left: the ‘Bird on a Rock’ PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO, GETTY IMAGESbrooch. Audrey Hepburn wearing the Tiffany Yellow Diamond. Schlumberger’s sketch for a brooch. A 1969 Tiffany & Co advertisement ‘I try to make this piece, which is perhaps his most everything look iconic,’ says Vicky Reynolds, Tiffany’s as if it were chief gemologist. ‘As well as having this growing, uneven, organic, wonderful plumage – reimagined in at random, in motion,’ yellow diamonds and looking rather like Jean Schlumberger once a pineapple – cockatiels are very witty, said of his famously flora- chatty birds. Together, those qualities are and fauna-inspired jewellery. quintessential Schlumberger.’ Having been scouted by Elsa Over the decades, there have been many Schiaparelli as a young man for iterations of this sprightly avian, but a particularly fine, new his decorative porcelain brooches edition is currently to be found atop a 54-carat tourmaline in electric and buttons, the artist and designer blue – the signature Tiffany hue. From early June, it will be awaiting was summoned to New York by Tiffany & visitors at London’s Saatchi Gallery, where the brand is holding Co in 1956, where he was charged with bringing his trademark an exhibition showcasing its creativity, craftsmanship and the colour and wit to the brand’s designs. role it has played in popular culture Inspired by wildlife’s vitality and the shapes and shades of since Charles Lewis Tiffany founded plants, he took this brief and more than fulfilled it, using vibrant his eponymous boutique in 1837. The gemstones to transform nature’s fleeting beauty into timeless show offers a whistlestop tour of wearable treasures: shimmering gold camel and sapphire jellyfish the house’s history and greatest hits: brooches; butterfly-adorned bracelets; delicate diamond jasmine chic black and white advertising pho- buds blooming from a necklace. One such masterpiece is his ‘Bird tography from the archive; a selection on a Rock’ brooch, conjured up in 1965. ‘He travelled extensively, of the former French crown jewels; especially to Guadeloupe, and we believe a cockatiel influenced and Audrey Hepburn’s own, annotated 62 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | June 2022 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk

Right: Diana J E W E L L E RY Vreeland’s ‘Trophée de Vaillance’ brooch. PRECIOUS CARGO Left and below right: Three dazzling designs Schlumberger’s from this year’s botanically sketches. Below: a vintage Tiffany & inspired collection Co advertisement ‘Flowers and Lea from 1969 ves’ necklace Breakfast at Tiffany’s script, along with the sensational 128-carat, Above left: the ‘Fleu rage’ brooch buttercup-yellow Tiffany diamond she wore while promoting the ‘Fleur du Mer’ ‘Feuillage’ ear film. All these will be joined by other members of Schlumberger’s brooch owned by rings magical menagerie, including Elizabeth Taylor’s sapphire ‘Fleur de Elizabeth Taylor, y, from a selection, Tiffany Mer’ sea-creature brooch and a theatrical clip made for the former pictured wearing it, June 2022 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 63 Bazaar fashion editor Diana Vreeland, a lifelong friend of the above. Below left: designer. The magnificent ‘Trophée de Vaillance’ – otherwise known the 1845 Tiffany & Co sales catalogue as the ‘Trophy of Love’ – is a brooch bearing a fringed mediaeval breastplate, spears and All jeweller & Co shield, fashioned from rubies and amethysts. As Vreeland put it: ‘It’s not at all subtle. A Schlumberger lights up a whole room!’ Fifty years on, the fruits of Schlumberger’s exceptional imagination will illuminate this summer’s landmark exhibition, and they have also inspired several spectacular pieces in Tiffany’s latest ‘Blue Book’ high-jewellery collection. With the summer flowers begin- ning to unfurl, this seems a perfect moment to pay homage to the living legacy of a designer who celebrated the Earth’s bountiful beauty. ‘Tiffany & Co: Vision & Virtuosity’ is at the Saatchi Gallery, London (www.saatchigallery.com), from 10 June to 19 August. www.harpersbazaar.com/uk

TALKING POINTS S arah Solemani has long been a sitcom staple on our screens, and stole the show in Bridget Jones’s Baby as the protagonist’s straight-talking colleague. Yet, despite being best-known for light-hearted comedy, the Los Angeles-based British-Iranian has recently started to combine entertainment with activism, integrating her early interests (she studied social and political science at Cambridge University) into Steve Coogan and Sarah her showbusiness career. In our age of divided opinions and the ‘us Solemani in ‘Chivalry’ and them’ mentality, the actress and writer is increasingly using her platform to tell both sides of any story, however controversial. We saw this in last year’s BBC series Ridley Road, a fictional dynamics that was, and is, going on. Things would often get fiery tale of the real-life anti-Semitic fascism that existed in 1960s between us, but we were always laughing – and one thing Steve and London. Reflecting on why she, as a Jewish woman, chose to write I do agree on is that we need to keep talking, even when we disagree the script, she says: ‘I wanted to go deeper than the and it can be painful or frustrating.’ two-dimensional, monster-zombie depictions of Written in this spirit of mutual generosity, the Nazis, and ask: why do they feel attached series skewers both writers’ perspectives. ‘We to this reductive ideology? What are they are each satirising our own standpoints, to a scared of?’ TELEVISION certain extent – on my side, the hyper-woke Her latest project is also an exer- contemporary film-maker; on his, the cise in empathy for ‘the opposition’. BATTLE OF rich, privileged, white, middle-aged Chivalry, a Channel 4 series made in THE SEXES dinosaur,’ she explains. ‘That way, we collaboration with Steve Coogan, hope, people from either end of the is an examination of contempo- In Chivalry, Sarah Solemani flips the spectrum and everyone in between rary misogyny that, in Solemani’s are invited, even if they are all laugh- words, aims to ‘investigate what ing at different things.’ The result is lies behind the macho’. Set in a provocative and extremely funny LA, the six-part comedy-drama drama that has an unexpected plot follows the old-school, big-bucks script to create a #MeToo comedy fit twist, alongside scenarios and casually movie producer Cameron (Coogan) sexist one-liners that will make many and the feminist indie director Bobby for our times. By Charlotte Brook viewers spit out their tea in horror. (Solemani), who have been hired to make As for the future, Solemani is working on a film together, despite their personal and projects with the psychologist Mary Trump professional differences. The supporting cast is (niece and critic of Donald) and Fawzia Koofi terrific: Aisling Bea is the intimacy co-ordinator nur- (‘the Hillary Clinton of Afghanistan’). Keen to revise per- turing Sienna Miller’s leading lady through sex scenes, and Lolly spectives of Middle Eastern women, she is currently learning Farsi Adefope is perfect as Cameron’s disdainfully amused assistant. in order to get under the skin of the culture. ‘I want to tell their The idea for a show exploring gender relations in the modern stories in a really humorous, suspenseful way,’ she says. I suspect film industry arose in 2018 on the set of Greed, in which Coogan that, as with Chivalry, much of Solemani’s audience will come played a Philip Green-inspired retail tycoon and Solemani for the jokes and stay for the insights – and that this is exactly his assistant. The #MeToo movement was gathering momen- the type of thought-provoking entertainment that audiences need tum and, says Solemani, ‘we were having the private debates that more of right now. I think a lot of people were – about this seismic shift in male-female ‘Chivalry’ is currently on Channel 4. ART I N T H E F R A M E The fantastical paintings of Maeve Gilmore finally find the spotlight ‘Child with Model During her lifetime, Maeve Gilmore’s quietly innovative creative Bird’ (about 1958) by Maeve Gilmore output was often overshadowed by that of her husband, the writer and illustrator Mervyn Peake. But now, almost 40 years after her death, the paintings of the Brixton-born artist take centre-stage for the first time, in south London’s Studio Voltaire. These atmos- pheric, sometimes surreal compositions, whose subjects range from her children and pet cat to kitchen ingredients and taxidermy, reveal an acute sensitivity to the symbolic importance of recurring domestic motifs. - ‘Maeve Gilmore’ is at Studio Voltaire (www.studiovoltaire.org) from 11 May to 17 July.

Left: Dior’s Charlotte dress Scarf, £150 (Flèche line) for spring/summer 1956 Silken Favours at Fortnum & Mason PHOTOGRAPHY Macarons, £22 for five Emma FINE PR I N T Dodi Cakes ROYA LT Y Bag, about £12 Loqi at the V&A A new book displays YES QU Brigitte Niedermair’s Iced biscuits, EEN intricate pictures from a for Dior Pay hom selection Biscuiteers Through Brigitte Nieder- mair’s camera lens, scrunches of silk, folds of chiffon and hand-stitched hems are trans- formed into exquisite works of fine art. Little wonder that Dior has chosen to collaborate with the Italian photographer over the past 10 years – a partnership now celebrated in a spectacular book. Highlights from its pages include couture close-ups resembling Old Masters, gowns shot against concrete architecture, and an intimate portrait of the house’s creative director of womenswear Maria Grazia Chiuri with her daughter, Rachele. ‘Photographie: Christian Dior’ by Brigitte Niedermair (£110, Rizzoli) is out now. PHOTOGRAPHS: © BRIGITTE NIEDERMAIR, COURTESY agetthoeHseercoMmajmesetmy woirtahtivec OF BRUCE HAINES, JOE PLUMMER, GETTY IMAGES Pin badge, uriosities£5 V&A Tray, £10 Emma Bridgewater FOOD FEAST FOR THE EYES Four brilliant cookbooks by groundbreaking female chefs The Year of Miracles Core by Clare Smyth The Weekend Cook by Feel Good by by Ella Risbridger This much-anticipated Angela Hartnett Melissa Hemsley Risbridger’s moving debut features 60 signature Hemsley’s latest release month-by-month plates served at Smyth’s One of Britain’s most focuses on the emotional chronicle of recipes three-Michelin-starred treasured culinary minds experience of eating rather explores the healing restaurant of the same than the skill of cooking. power of food. With name. Among these is her and the chef-patron of Including a halloumi and signature potato and Murano, Hartnett has chickpea rainbow salad, cardamom cinnamon roe, whose elements collated the perfect three-ingredient chocolate chicken rice, blackberry dessert pots and a Filipino miso birthday cake and of land and sea were dishes for dining at chicken dish passed Guinness brownie pudding, inspired by her home. Embracing slow, down from her mother, relaxed cooking, from these are meals to it provides a dish for childhood spent on risottos to a prune gâteau create time and again. all occasions, grand a coastal potato farm Basque, the 80 recipes in Northern Ireland. Out on 19 May or intimate. offer inspiration for (£22, Ebury). Out on 26 May (£22, Out on 23 June a memorable repast. (£45, Phaidon). Bloomsbury). Out on 26 May (£26, Bloomsbury). www.harpersbazaar.com/uk June 2022 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 65

BOOKS SPEAKING IN TONGUES Jhumpa Lahiri tells Erica Wagner how mastering a new language gave her a fresh sense of purpose and helped her find her voice T he writer Jhumpa Lahiri has always been acutely tongues, which became more intuitive the aware of the power of language. Born in London to Bengali parents, she was raised in the United longer she lived in Rome. After only a week States, where she saw at first hand the linguistic challenges faced by the immigrant community. in the city, she took the significant step of ‘I grew up with parents who spoke English very well but had accents, and never felt 100 per cent confident in beginning to write her diary in Italian; this using it to communicate,’ she says. ‘I saw how that was a source of embarrassment for them, served, she says, as a ‘sort of sanctum sanc- a source of insecurity; I saw how badly they were treated in everyday situations. You pick up on Jhumpa Lahiri torum, my inner laboratory. Everything, all these things as a child. You realise, “Hm, people of my writing, grows out of that space.’ really have mistrust of others who come from different languages.”’ Gradually, an important shift took place. To speak of ‘coming from’ a language is to ‘I realised I was beginning to say and see things in Italian that I demonstrate that the vocabulary we use can shape our identity as much as the territory we live in; the trajectory hadn’t been able to communicate in English in the same way,’ she of the past 10 years of Lahiri’s life is proof of this. Initially writing in English, she became a literary star with her first book, the 1999 recalls. ‘I could articulate emotions and make observations in Pulitzer Prize-winning short-story collection Interpreter of Maladies, and in 2013 she was shortlisted for the Booker Prize for her second a manner that was more direct and compressed. It was so fruitful novel The Lowland, which addressed themes of family ties and con- flict, immigration and assimilation. Yet this success was only the – intriguing, exciting, baffling and challenging all at once.’ beginning of her journey as a writer. In 2012, motivated by a growing passion for Italian (which she had been studying on and off for nearly In 2015 – the year Lahiri moved back to the United States, 10 years), she decided to move to Rome, where she could truly immerse herself in the culture. ‘It was very much a calling, a voca- becoming professor of creative writing at Princeton – she published tion; vocations are mysterious things,’ she reflects. ‘I just feel that it was in my nature to learn this language and to devote myself to it.’ a memoir in Italian, In Altre Parole (In Other Words); this was trans- In her wonderful new collection of essays Translating Myself and lated into English by Ann Goldstein, who also works on the fiction Others, Lahiri discusses the complex process of shifting between of Elena Ferrante. At the time, she chose not to translate her own writing, preferring to remain fully focused on her mastery of Italian, though she has since done so with her novel Dove Mi Trovo, released in English last year as Whereabouts. Lahiri’s shift into Italian has given her a powerful sense of motivation. ‘As someone who was raised with two languages and cultures, moving into the third provided a crucial equilibrium… yet at the same time, it complicated the question even more,’ she muses. ‘The purpose of life, I think, is understanding yourself better. Learn- ing Italian has definitely enabled me to do that in a much deeper way.’ Through language, we come to know ourselves: Lahiri’s work shows how it is always possible to expand that knowledge. ‘Translating Myself and Others’ by Jhumpa Lahiri (£16.99, Princeton University Press) is published on 17 May. EXHIBITIONS THROUGH THE Right: ‘Woman LOOK ING -GL A SS Reading Possession Order’ (1997) by Featuring artists including Rembrandt, David Hockney, Louise Bourgeois and Cindy Sherman, a new Dulwich Tom Hunter. Below: ‘Posing Picture Gallery show takes the intriguing motif of With My Parrot’ ‘the woman in the window’ as its subject, exploring the (2021) by Ajarb Bernard Ategwa many questions it raises about visibility, voyeurism and the male and female gaze. CB ‘Reframed: The Woman in the Window’ is at Dulwich Picture Gallery (www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk) until 4 September. ‘La Femme à la Fenêtre’ (Woman at the Window) (1952) by Pablo Picasso

TALKING POINTS Art print, £198 Napkins, £55 Mind The Gap for four Sarah K Ceiling lamp, £285 Sweetpea & Willow Candle, £100 Bamford The future Queen Art print, £198 Napkin ring, £55 with her father, Mind The Gap for four King George VI, in July 1946 Jug, Kim Seybert £101 at Amara Plates, £160 Amara a pair £2,096 ZDG at Deborah Needleman Matchesfashion at Cabana PHOTOGRAPHS: TATE PRIVATE COLLECTION, USA © AJARB BERNARD ATEGWA/JACK BELL GALLERY, COURTESY THE ARTIST TOM HUNTER, LIANA MIUCCIO, GETTY IMAGES £125 Ceraudo INTERIORS Candle, £65 Henry’s £200 a pair PARTY Townhouse Campbell-Rey at PALACE Matchesfashion Table, £530 Transform your house and garden into the Camilla perfect venue for an elegant Jubilee celebration Hampton Interiors Compiled by MARISSA BOURKE Frames, £135 each Matilda Goad Table, £300 Rug, from £645 Raj Tent Club Campbell-Rey for Nordic Knots Placemat, £134 for four Jonathan Adler Plate, £7 Raj Tent Club Serving spoons, £92 a pair Jonathan Adler Lantern, £98 Placemats, Mrs Alice £60 for four Club Matters Background wallpaper, Armchair with £243 a metre Pierre Frey ottoman, www.harpersbazaar.com/uk £2,300 Paolo Moschino June 2022 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 67

HOROSCOPES The future revealed: your essential guide to JUNE By PETER WATSON GEMINI SAGITTARIUS 22 May – 21 June 23 November – 21 December It could be a mistake to let people influence you regarding Dig deep and find the means by which to transform the germ financial wheelings and dealings. As you approach an intense of an idea into something worthwhile. It will take effort, so try to period in late June, don’t let the Sun’s run-in with Jupiter mean enlist the help of one particular individual who has experience in that you are persuaded to think too big and take chances. You’re the area concerned. You’ll need to be at your most charming and a far better judge of what’s going on than anybody else. convincing to get this person on side. 13th – news arrives in time to give you a lead over rivals. 14th – learning to leave well alone brings unexpected gains. CANCER CAPRICORN 22 June – 23 July 22 December – 20 January Take care not to make a loved one feel excluded from group Some heavy lifting needs to be done and you’re at risk of activities on which you’re keen. You probably feel that it’s underestimating the impact it could have on you. Talk it over sometimes good for the two of you to pursue your own interests with those familiar with every facet of what’s involved, and independently of each other, but you’re dealing with someone take on board any advice you’re offered – even if it slows you who needs your back-up on a complex matter. Be there. down or forces you to manage your expectations. 28th – vital facts come your way and a crisis is averted. 23rd – by refusing to engage in a slanging match, you triumph. LEO AQUARIUS 24 July – 23 August 21 January – 19 February You might not acknowledge flattering comments about your Restrictions on social or leisure-time activities might seem grossly performance in the wider world, but a Venus-Uranus connection unfair, but you’ll be expected to see the situation from the point means you’ll begin to appreciate the value of having the support of view of friends whose approach to life is far more sober and of people in authority. Anyone watching from the sidelines who serious than yours. Can you do that? Maybe. Will you resent it? is unhappy to see you doing well will just have to get on with it. Probably. Some intense negotiating needs to take place. 19th – opportunities previously denied to you bring empowerment. 7th – having revised your opinion of others, you steam ahead. VIRGO PISCES 24 August – 23 September 20 February – 20 March Ongoing duties might prove irksome, but you mustn’t let it show, Reflecting on events in your personal or family set-up might touch especially in the company of somebody wanting to share the a nerve. But not for long – in mid-June, when the Sun confronts lighter side of life with you. Ask yourself whether you’re entitled Neptune but befriends Saturn, you’ll decide you can move on. to feel so hard done by when it comes to everyday responsibilities. With help, you’ll put things in perspective. Even if you still Don’t we all have to manage them to a greater or lesser degree? experience doubt and confusion, you’ll know how to handle it. 3rd – random clues arrive to solve an old mystery. 20th – your tactics pay dividends during crucial talks. LIBRA ARIES 24 September – 23 October 21 March – 20 April Delicate negotiations within the home or family needn’t become Although there might still be some awkwardness between you onerous. A friend or relative may appear to have more power and someone with whom you’ve had a difference of opinion, make than seems appropriate to you. Rather than distrust them, allow it obvious that you want this relationship to revert to being easy a Mercury-Pluto liaison to encourage you to gain an unbiased and amicable. It won’t happen without considerable effort from view of the matter. You’ve far less to fear than you realise. you. And if it takes time, it will be well worth it. 15th – as the mists clear, you make the right decision. 21st – you face up to challenges and everybody is impressed. SCORPIO TAURUS 24 October – 22 November 21 April – 21 May Those tiptoeing around a complicated money-related or property As rules and guidelines affecting your work or private affairs issue would like to hear your opinion. Without trivialising the become unnecessarily complicated, you’ll want to protest. Choose situation, persuade them that finding a solution might be tricky your battles carefully, but if you honestly believe that you and but is possible. They’re in danger of feeling defeated to the point others are being inconvenienced for no valid reason, it’s only right where they give up altogether. Don’t let this happen. you find out why. Make your feelings known loudly and clearly. 18th – somebody telling you to hold on to hard cash is right. 4th – relying on no one’s advice but your own pays off. For weekly updates, visit www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/culture/horoscopes 68 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | June 2022 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk





PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES JUNE 2022 The crowning glory of our Platinum Jubilee special edition is a true world first: a fashion shoot at the Tower of London, featuring a parade of regal looks by Britain’s leading designers. Cecil Beaton’s royal portraiture is the inspiration behind Erik Madigan Heck’s beautifully composed story, and we ask famous figures including Helen Mirren, Chris Levine and Clare Balding for their reflections on the Queen. Meanwhile, our cover star Rose Leslie, herself descended from monarchs past, reveals the romance and reality of her aristocratic upbringing in Scotland.

From Downton Abbey to Gameof Thrones, RoseLeslie is on a path to global stardom. She talks to Helena Lee about her love of Scotland, her aristocratic lineage and family life with Kit Harington Rose in bloom Photographs by ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI Styled by MIRANDA ALMOND

Rose Leslie wears tulle dress, about £6,330, Giambattista Valli. Platinum, diamond and pearl bracelet; platinum, pearl and diamond earrings; platinum and diamond ring, all from a selection, Tiffany & Co. Satin shoes, £375, Le Monde Béryl

Rose Leslie is doing that British thing of apologising when it’s not her fault. We’d arrived at different cafés with the same name, and when we When her son was 10 weeks old, the whole family packed up to eventually find each other, she bursts into a flurry of ‘sorries’. It goes live in Tribeca for six months. Leslie had landed a dream role in the to confirm what I’ve always suspected: she’s preternaturally nice. HBO adaptation of Audrey Niffenegger’s bestselling novel The Time Traveler’s Wife; she would be on set while her son was with his father. Sitting in a busy north-London café, casual in a viridian jumper ‘Going into Time Traveler’s, I felt mentally prepared. I was champing over a Breton top with a denim skirt and white trainers, she also at the bit to do this gig, do it well, and felt I could balance it with our looks surprisingly normal. It’s only when I spot heads turning that child. But I remember finding it very brutal, being wrenched away I remember just how famous she is. from him. There were parts of me that doubted whether I would be able to see it through for six months. It was so tough.’ Having to Unforgettable in Game of Thrones as the fierce, warrior wild- express breast milk daily was, she says, ‘the most physically, emo- woman Ygritte (who captured her now-husband Kit Harington’s tionally draining experience, because you’ve been doing it all day, heart on screen and off ), she has subsequently held her own in and just when you want a rest in the evening, you have to do it again. Hollywood blockbusters against the likes of Vin Diesel and starred I also remember one breast being larger than the other, but I was in three seasons of the prime-time, Emmy Award-winning drama trying to stimulate the smaller one so I could give more,’ she says, The Good Fight, as well as in Kenneth Branagh’s sumptuous adapta- laughing, which she does often. And how did Harington cope in tion of Death on the Nile this year. sole parental charge? ‘He wore the Baby Björn loud and proud. And there were many satisfying moments; we had an understanding Until recently, hers was a high-octane existence: though based that, when our son cried in the middle of the night, it was on Kit to in New York, she was constantly shuttling across the Atlantic. go and look after him, as I would have to wake up early to work – ‘North London is a different world,’ she says of her trendy neigh- it was kind of glorious.’ bourhood, today framed with clouds of cherry blossom and violet magnolia. ‘You feel you can breathe in this space – although I have For Leslie, knowing the producers would accommodate her never stepped into so many churches in my entire life!’ needing the odd morning off meant that she could embrace the tiredness and carry on. ‘It’s mind-boggling to me that women who She gave birth last February in University College Hospital to come back to work after giving birth don’t feel supported,’ she her first baby, a little boy (the couple are keeping the name private), says, her voice rising a little. ‘How can your employer expect you and, except for an intense six months back in New York filming to sustain the mental capacity, the energy and the drive to do it her new project, has settled into domestic life, motherhood and her with clout otherwise?’ local community. She now spends most mornings attending play- groups in church halls. ‘It’s a glorious thing,’ she says brightly, sipping Leslie plays Clare, the spouse to Theo James’ Henry, who has her coffee, ‘to be in that shared space with new mums, willing to a genetic condition that causes him to jump through time involun- open up about the trials and tribulations, and be like, “Yes, I’m actu- tarily, never knowing when he’s going to turn up in Clare’s life, nor ally finding it quite tough.” When my son was born, the narrative at what age. This was no small production: ambitious in scale, mind- seemed to be that you’re automatically going to be enamoured with bending in concept and completely reliant on the performances of this little person. But why should that be the case when you have the two leads. never experienced having a child? Why should it come innately? There’s an element of me saying, “Hey, buddy, we’re here now. It’s At times, says Leslie, it felt as though she were in a play, with amazing. But I’ve got to get to know you, and forge the relationship weeks of rehearsals, having to learn the quick, snappy dialogue and, that’s going to see us through our lifetime.”’ She tucks her tousled crucially, to understand the subtle iterations of her own character, golden-red hair behind her ear. ‘It’s something my husband also who ranges in age from 16 to 70. found. Once we recognised that the love gets built rather than being 100 per cent there from the start, once we voiced that opinion ‘There were so many nuances in each line,’ she explains. ‘Theo to each other, it felt like a real release.’ and I realised pretty early on that if you didn’t like what either of us

Silk dress, £2,550, Erdem. Belt, stylist’s own. Gold and platinum ear clips, from a selection; gold and diamond brooch (worn as hair clip), from a selection; gold and diamond ring (on index finger), £3,450; gold and platinum ring, from a selection, all Tiffany & Co BAELTEIXNI ALUDBUOTMOIIRTS KI

‘Once we recognised that parental love gets built rather  than being there from the start, it felt like a real release’ PHOTAOLGEXRIALPUHBEORMNIARMSKEI

Silk, lace and cotton dress, £1,865, Bora Aksu. Gold and diamond earrings, £12,300; gold necklace, from a selection, both Tiffany & Co

Silk and cotton dress, about £4,770, Jason Wu Collection. Rose gold necklace, from a selection, Tiffany & Co ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI

were doing, it’s an issue, as the camera is either on versions of him doing only two takes, giving it everything she could, after which or versions of me.’ her stunt double would take over, in order to protect her baby. ‘As I ‘Rose and Theo were extraordinarily disciplined, and were was saying it, there was a saboteur in my head being like: who the word-perfect from the first take,’ says the screenwriter and executive fuck do you think you are? But then I told myself: shut up – you are producer Steven Moffat when we speak the next day. ‘They are so the person who is always accommodating and wishing to please precise in their performance. But if I had to use one word to talk everyone. I felt that I’d grown in that moment, in taking a stance, about Rose, it would be “vitality”. She has tremendous vitality.’ taking responsibility, recognising that I had to protect us both.’ Much has been made of Leslie’s cut-glass accent and back- Since becoming a family, Harington and Leslie make decisions ground – particularly piquant given Ygritte’s strong Northern accent together about career choices, taking it in turns to support each – a fact that is surely testament to her acting ability. She spent her other’s projects with a baby in tow. When we speak, Harington is first 10 years in the 15th-century Lickleyhead Castle in Aberdeen- starring in the title role of Henry V at the Donmar Warehouse, and shire, the seat of the Leslie clan; through her mother’s line, she is so Leslie is the one who has to wake up in the night when their son descended from King Charles II (as, funnily enough, is Kit Har- stirs. They try to keep their lives as normal as possible; neither is ington, through his paternal grandmother). on social media (‘If I had an Instagram account, my anxiety would In the past, she has said that she was brought up to be respectful go through the roof!’) and both are wary of fame (‘debilitating is about her ancestors and proud of her lineage. I ask what aspects the word’); they value their privacy and keep to themselves when of this unusual heritage she will be passing on to her son; Leslie they can. This is understandable, considering a recent interview pauses uncomfortably, but smiles. ‘It’s important that he’s aware of Harington gave that revealed his struggle with fatherhood and his ancestry in the way that it’s important for every family, but, for previous battles with depression and addiction. me, it’s more about instilling values – it’s not necessarily talking ‘For Kit, being an addict, it’s very important for him to recognise about Charles II!’ himself as such,’ she says, slowly, before falling quiet. It’s one of those When I suggest that her childhood was more I Capture the Castle unexpected spring days, which started with frost but is now balmy, than Downton Abbey (in which she played Gwen Harding, one of and we have decided to take a walk along the canal. For a while, all the maids), she bursts into laughter. ‘You couldn’t be more I hear are our footsteps pacing in time with each other. ‘The AA spot on,’ she says, shaking her head. ‘There’s a romanticism to growing up in the middle of nowhere in Scotland. You know… glorious, ‘I struggle with being with an abundance of space.’ She would, she eloquent. A part of me wishes says, run and hide around the grounds, make dens in the rhododendron bushes and, with no neighbours nearby, scream and shout to her heart’s desire. The middle of five siblings, Leslie to say other people’s words’ describes her older brother and sister as a duo, while the rest were left to ‘be a little tripod’. They’d play Power Rangers and jump on the trampoline every night after supper, occasion- ally getting roped in to play rugby with their older brother. community has provided such a loving space for him to feel heard, ‘Nothing quite captures the peace in my soul the way that the to make sure he’s not alone. But if it weren’t for rehab, he would be in Scottish countryside does,’ she says. ‘I associate family, love and a very different headspace right now.’ security with the landscape. But the idea that the castle was very And how is she coping herself? ‘I’m doing well. This was in 2019, quaint and idyllic isn’t the truth. It was draughty and cold. We really so we’re now several years into his sobriety.’ She pauses, before did stay in about three rooms in the entire house, because one had telling me how fantastic Al-Anon (the support group for friends and a fire, one had the only radiator that functioned, and the other was relatives of alcoholics) has been to her. ‘I’ve learnt a lot about addic- probably the kitchen.’ tion and it’s something Kit is forever going to be aware of, but it’s on While her siblings were sporty and academic, she liked to him whether he chooses to drink again. No amount of nannying is perform. She left home when she was 18 to attend the London going to be able to stop him from doing what he decides to do… Academy of Music & Dramatic Art and, at the age of 21, won I don’t choose to put that pressure on myself. The responsibility of a Scottish Bafta for a role in the 2009 television film New Town. ‘It’s his behaviour is on him. It’s not on me to guard him from it.’ no coincidence that I’m a middle child and an actor,’ she says. What they are choosing to do is be a unit, build their world as ‘I struggled with finding words to express myself, to find the words a family. They have bought a second property in rural Suffolk, where in my mind. I struggle with being eloquent. A part of me recognises they will decamp after Henry V ends. ‘We’re going to make a home, that and wishes to say other people’s words.’ She gives a self- try to make friends. We’re just going to use our son!’ she jokes. deprecating smile. ‘I’m leaning in to that.’ Despite her confident and ‘In London, we’re firing on all cylinders, and when we get to the elegant exterior, she more than once mentions an internal critic that countryside, we can just turn it all off.’ threatens to undermine her. ‘It’s madness, and also maddening, We have now wandered together for almost two miles, and the that my own inner voice is like, you are failing. Oh, my God!’ she shadows are getting long. She gives me an enthusiastic embrace exclaims. ‘Who asked you to turn up? Stop it. Go away.’ before setting off back to Harington, who is once more at home A turning point for her was filming Vigil, the 2021 BBC drama holding the baby. I can’t help but admire that tremendous vitality; about a murder on a submarine, while six-months pregnant. In what will she do with it next? preparation for a scene where her character is thrown against the ‘The Time Traveler’s Wife’ will be available from 16 May on Sky Atlantic wall and beaten up by intruders, she insisted on fully rehearsing and and NOW. ‘Death on the Nile’ is on Disney+.

THIS PAGE: sequin-embroidered cotton dress, from a selection, Louis Vuitton. Platinum and diamond bracelet; platinum and diamond ring, both from a selection, Tiffany & Co. Crystal-embellished heels, £1,116, Mach & Mach. OPPOSITE: silk mini-dress, about £2,060, Carolina Herrera. Gold and platinum ear clips, from a selection, Tiffany & Co

ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI

‘It’s important that he’s aware of his ancestry, but it’s more about instilling values – not talking about Charles II!’ ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI

Silk dress, £2,695, Huishan Zhang. Gold and diamond earrings, £12,300; platinum and diamond ring, from a selection; gold and diamond ring, £3,450, all Tiffany & Co. Satin heels, £740, Aquazzura. Hair by Liz Taw at the Wall Group. Make-up by Justine Jenkins, using Seeds Of Colour. Manicure by Michelle Class at LMC

MAJESTY IN MOTION In the first ever fashion shoot at the Tower of London, a loyal court of leading British designers pay sartorial tribute to the Queen with looks inspired by her timeless elegance Photographs by RICHARD PHIBBS Styled by CATHY KASTERINE Edited by AVRIL MAIR

SARAH BURTON, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ‘The red rose is quintessentially feminine and timelessly beautiful – a symbol of romance, passion and love. It is also resilient and strong; there is a power and a dignity to this queen of flowers.’ Silk taffeta dress; leather belt; leather boots; antique silver earrings, all Alexander McQueen A/W 19

M O L LY GODDARD ‘The Queen’s fashion legacy is to be unafraid of colour, and for me, her most unforgettable outfit was a banana-yellow suit with matching accessories. However, I felt bold black tulle was perfect for shooting alongside the Tower of London – they’re two strong silhouettes.’ Tulle dress, Molly Goddard A/W 19 RICHARD PHIBBS

EMILIA WICKSTEAD ‘The Queen was an early pioneer of power dressing for women. It’s an idea I come back to often. Her wardrobe is dynamic, intentional and reflective of the times we live in. This look is made in gold metallic jacquard, which gives a dramatic, lustrous effect, yet is refined by the classic silhouette. It is a dress to stand out and to celebrate in.’ Jacquard dress, Emilia Wickstead A/W 20

ROKSANDA ILINCIC ‘It is inspiring how the Queen uses her platform to wear such a variety of designs, while retaining her clear sense of personal style. For this look, I revisited my archive and considered a selection of interesting colours and majestic volumes with lots of movement in honour of her iconic wardrobe.’ Silk organza dress, Roksanda Pre-Fall 19

ANDREAS KRONTHALER, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ‘Corsets give a feeling of armour – worn by Queens.’ Flock tulle dress, Vivienne Westwood Couture S/S 16 RICHARD PHIBBS

BORA AKSU ‘I am an incurable romantic, and my aim is to seek and define beauty on my own terms. It’s about mixing traditional elements with newer ones – the perfect design language for the Queen, who has always shown timelessness and regal elegance.’ Layered pleated dress with gloves, Bora Aksu S/S 18 Worn with gold and diamond earrings ( just seen), Jessica McCormack

STELLA MCCARTNEY ‘I was delighted when I read Her Majesty was going fur-free in 2019, as this is something so close to my heart. It was a major moment in history that emphasised the importance of putting an end to the fur trade once and for all.’ Faux-fur coat, Stella McCartney A/W 15 RICHARD PHIBBS



PHILIP TREACY ‘The Queen has done more for the hat than anyone else, and has kept it alive in the imagination of people all over the world. It was irresistible to have this 17th-century sailing-ship hat photographed at the Tower of London, given the epic backdrop near the river.’ The Ship Hat, Philip Treacy S/S 95 Worn with corseted silk jacket, Vivienne Westwood Gold Label S/S 12 RICHARD PHIBBS

ERDEM MORALIOGLU ‘This is the finale look from my S/S 18 collection, the inspiration for which was a 1956 meeting between the jazz musician Duke Ellington and the Queen. After this, Ellington wrote a piece of music called “The Queen’s Suite” – the romance of that gesture really influenced the collection.’ Duchesse satin dress; embroidered leather gloves, both Erdem S/S 18 Worn with Perspex-heel brogues, Simone Rocha A/W 18

HUISHAN ZHANG ‘I think the Queen is always presented so beautifully and I particularly love her attention to detail; she’s the finest representation of British good taste. This dress has an extremely regal cape, yet its detachable quality represents the future of modern royalty.’ Caped dress, Huishan Zhang S/S 22 RICHARD PHIBBS

JUSTIN THORNTON AND THEA BREGAZZI, PREEN ‘This pink satin devoré dress is inspired by our first memories of the Queen, of her Silver Jubilee look, when she wore pink on pink. We were both very young at the time and had never seen this before. Her sense of colour is so daring and bold.’ Silk satin dress; scuba bralette top, both Preen by Thornton Bregazzi S/S 22 Worn with platinum and diamond necklace (in hair), Boodles

SIMONE ROCHA ‘I have always admired the Queen when she wears white. This look is from my A/W 18 collection, and has tulle patchworked with lace and brocade, and a bow embroidered with gold tinsel. I also like her subtle sartorial nods to the countries she is visiting.’ Crystal-beaded apron-bow dress; scoop-neck patchwork dress; Perspex-heel brogues, all Simone Rocha A/W 18 RICHARD PHIBBS

HARRIS REED ‘I try to reflect the Queen’s sophistication in my work. I’ve chosen black for this shoot, which I thought would best represent the architecture of London. It’s all about the shadows and contrasts in this regal, decadent city.’ Moire and velvet dress with beaded turtleneck; custom headpiece in collaboration with Cassie Rendle, both Harris Reed A/W 22 RICHARD PHIBBS