NZToday-Special Collectors Edition South Island Walks and Cycle Trails

and Kawatiri Beach Reserve via the purpose-built 4 Kawatiri River single-track mountain-bike trail that runs parallel 5 Trail at a Glance to the main beach through coastal scrub. No hills – just a really smooth, flowing single track with cool The Kawatiri River Trail starts sweeping berms and corners. This track is designed under the Buller River bridge as a one-way track so you have no worries about as you drive into town, on the running into other bikers coming from the other east side of the river direction. The as-the-crow-flies distance from the Grade: easy breakwater to the end of Beach Drive is about 1.3km, T ime: couple of hours to but the nature of the winding bike trails means that all day depending on trail actual riding distance is greater. options and how much you explore A second option is to simply return along the trail Distance: 9km return the way you have come. This gives you the chance to see the other side of the Lost Lagoon if you hadn’t Birdlife of note to see already done the loop around it on your way past Tidal areas: marsh crake, the first time. black swan, paradise shelduck, cormorants Yet another way to return to your vehicle is to (shags), gulls and terns, grey hook onto Craddock Drive (from the start of the and mallard ducks, white breakwater) and travel along sealed roads back heron, royal spoonbill, pied into and through town. There are several cafés and stilt tearooms in the main street if you’re feeling hungry, Bush areas: weka, tūī, thirsty, and I discovered the best coffee in town is bellbird, grey warbler, wood at Whanake gallery and coffee shop at the southern pigeon, fantail, silvereye, end of town. Not only great coffee, but the gallery of tomtit photographic artworks featuring local New Zealand birds and landscapes is well worth viewing. Tips • take a camera and Times and distances of this lovely river-and-beach binoculars to spot birdlife trail vary according to whether you are biking or • pack a wind jacket in case walking. The varied options and choices of where of strong coastal winds you go and what you do also determine how long • try the single-track your trip will take. mountain-bike trails at North Beach – they are fun! For walkers wanting to do the whole trail and • check out the Whanake explore all the different track options and what they photographic gallery provide, I would allow most of the day … which would include lunch in town. 1. The Lost Lagoon 2. The first 1km of trail passes For bikers wanting a quicker day but still wanting to explore everything the trail has to offer, a half day through lush, native bush would do the trick easily. 3. The Westport Railway Society’s This story featured in NZToday issue 78. building and display of old carriages 6 4. Between September 1st and November 14th whitebaiters are a common sight along the river’s edge 5. Derelict fishing and shipping wharves can be seen early on in the trail 6.The very shy and secretive marsh crake (half the size of a blackbird) has been sighted in the Lost Lagoon – keep a lookout on the edges of the reeds Special Edition 2019 99

West Coast Paparoa Track, Pike 29 Memorial Track Aligned for Greatness Gary gets involved in charting a track through the Paparoa Ranges for the first Great Walk to be built in over 30 years Story + Photos Gary Patterson or as credited Mahinapua Creek is cycling solitude (Credit: Jason Blair) 100 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

A new Great Walk that’s also rideable year-round; now there’s a proposition that grabbed my attention! In 2015 the Department of Conservation (DOC) announced plans for a new Great Walk that was also going to be a mountain-bike trail. DOC was looking at pulling together a new generation of trail surveyors to determine the alignment of the proposed trail. It would be the first Great Walk track to be built in over 30 years, and when they approached me I was immediately keen to be involved. For me, finding the best line in the South Island’s Paparoa Ranges would be a dream. Who wouldn’t want to camp for 10 weeks in the hills, scramble along ridgelines and do battle with unforgiving vegetation, all in the name of ensuring a trail is suitable for both walkers and wheelers for generations to come? The thought of route-finding for such an iconic track set my mind abuzz. Late February 2016 saw me aboard a helicopter flying up to the tops to start the first day of the survey corridor project for the Department’s 10th Great Walk. Conservation ranger Dave became my pal in the hills on most of the numerous survey trips over the following months, while another unseen survey party worked towards us from the Punakaiki end. Dave and I began on the Moonlight Tops with the luxurious bonus of a backcountry hut to accommodate us for the first week, before slumming into tents as we progressed further into the wilderness. Our task was clear: to take the rough line described by DOC on a map and translate that into a physical survey line suitable for cyclists on the ground. A track for trampers could include steps and steep inclines; however, the Department’s first multi-purpose build also had to be cycle-friendly. The trail prescription not only has to adhere to the Great Walk specifications but also to advanced mountain grades of generally less than 6.5 degrees gradient (1:10). In addition to our background experience, we also had some handy tools to assist us such as paper maps, GPS units and shiny silver clinometers. My Swedish silver bling was the size of a matchbox, with a hole to look through with one eye in order to read the gradient on the rolling gauge while the other eye looked into the distance to where a trail might pass. This little metal tool and our GPSs were essential for determining where we were and assessing new trail possibilities. Over the next few months my clinometer would hang around my neck on a string like some sort of hippy medallion – a modern aid to make the grade. 2 1 1. Walking along the tops of the Pike escarpment 2. GPS recordings are vital to take field data back to the office Special Edition 2019 101

West Coast Paparoa Track, Pike 29 Memorial Track 3 4 Our first week was a challenge. We had heard about the clag that 5 gathers on the Paparoa tops, and in this first week it enveloped us like a heavy, dank cloak. We set off from the hut in our wet-weather gear on we conclude that this section of track would be possible, we discussed our first steps of discovery. Diligently working on the ridgeline and the best alignment in order to offer the greatest visitor experience. A off both sides of the range, we systematically explored rocky outcrops, survey companion is essential for this task, collaborating and debating tarns and hummocks. results in the best outcomes; Dave and I debated the route options in the swirling cloud. The first half of the day is spent in exploring mode, our attention as focused as a landscape artist’s practised eye when visualising features that will later be painted onto canvas. We soon settle into a process where we surveyed about a kilometre of a potential route to reach a location, often a low saddle, where any trail options naturally converged. When 76 102 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

7 For the second half of the day our clinometers heavenly. Tonight, however, the heavens open above 3. Using the clinometer to are swung into action. I peer through the device our tents and pour beyond all imagination – there’s with one eye while the other focuses on my mate little sleep to be had in such a violent storm, and in make the grade who stands still and straight as a surveyor’s prism the morning it’s still raging. Reluctantly we emerge, pole. When the gradient is suitable, the GPS track fuel up and head out for another day in the field. This 4. How can one survey when is logged. Finally we pull out the fluorescent blue is our toughest day yet. Exposed on the tops as we marking tape from our backpacks and retrace our are, the weather flails us with its worst. Our quality vision is hampered by cloud? line using the clinometers. The tussocks and herb rainwear finally succumbs, the clinometers fog up, fields slow our markup as they resist our blue tape bluffs block our way. The risk of exposure during 5. Marking up with flagging knots delineating the alignment. These first-day tasks such violent weather is an ever-present danger. We became our routine for the months ahead. shiver back to camp and take shelter in our sodden, tape of where the trail will pass Grim weather hangs round for the whole first wind-beaten tents. week. How are we supposed to survey an 6. The Moonlight Tops in alignment when our vision is hampered by cloud? Every few hours the cotton-wool 8 clearing clag clag would stretch open, offering scant 7. The Moonlight Tops in moments to view the landscape before closing to whiteout conditions. Like clumsy clearing clag clowns in oversized boots and rainwear we stumble over the uneven terrain to see 8. A happy smile as the cloud through the gaps in the cloud and survey our surrounds. This circus act would clears and the sun comes out sometimes result in a trip and a nosedive into the vegetation, so how we manage to Special Edition 2019 103 find our lost GPS unit in the thick clumps of tussock is still a mystery to me. The first week seeps into a second where we tent on the tops. We start with clear weather and quickly attach our blue markers creating an imaginary track that leads to the proposed site for the Moonlight Tops Hut. The view from the hut site will be impressive. To arrive at the hut in the evening and watch the sunset colours cast shadows into the craggy voids of the massive Pike escarpment would be

West Coast Paparoa Track, Pike 29 Memorial Track 9 10 Our next trip to the tops is to a nearby site in late April. Winter is with a quick review of the maps before drifting off. Come morning we nigh. Tenting, even down at treeline altitude, is bone-chillingly cold, navigate through the cloud forest, a canopy of stunted beech trees that and daylight wanes as we reach camp each night. There is little flat land are draped in dangling moss – Frodo and Bilbo could well be spotted here, so we camp in a bog with the damp air seeping into our bones. through the clinometer eyepiece, frolicking around the next bend of One night a morepork sits in a tree above camp and watches over us; our survey line. After several days the cloud forest relents and we reach noises in the undergrowth signal a prowling weka which does a circuit the open junction of the Paparoa Range and the Pike spur. of our camp before vanishing back into the undergrowth. Don’t think he stole anything. We hear kiwi calls too but are not graced by their The Pike catchment is known by most of us for the tragic underground presence. Unlike summer, the evenings offer little enticement for outside events of 2010. We spend a couple of weeks in the catchment. Our base socialising. We soon learn that the longer we are out, the longer it takes is the former office of the Pike River Mine. Here in the evenings, we each to get warm and fall asleep. Tiredness comes quickly, and it’s early to bed take a room in the empty offices, a warm place near the chilling events that occurred a few hundred metres away. One morning as we head out, IMMERSE YOURSELF IN OVER 100 YEARS OF HISTORY AT ONE OF THE MOST ICONIC HOTELS ON THE WEST COAST ☛ Enjoy friendly atmosphere at our renowned restaurant and bar where you can meet the locals. ☛ Cosy accommodation with room for groups. ☛ Powered motorhome sites available. ☛ Free WIFI. 26 Hart St, Blackball · 04 3732 4705 · [email protected] · blackballhilton.co.nz 104 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

we pass the tagboard with the names and pictures the gateway to the escarpment – the photographic 11 of the 29 coal miners who lost their lives. Sad. I will feature that will most likely appear on future media never forget the board, and how the dangling tags campaigns. Wow! 3. Ranger Dave making notes fluttered in the wind. The 11-kilometre side trail that we work on will become the Pike29 Memorial Track, The following morning we are acutely aware of the traverse of the range a way to remember these men who did not come of our responsibility to pick the perfect line. This home that sorrowful and fateful day. For the next precipice deserves respect. It is both dangerous and 10. Trail marking through the fortnight our task is to survey the line connecting iconic, and vegetation takes aeons to repair from the memorial track with the main ridgeline. any disturbance. The easy and quickest route is on canopy and under loopy cloud the eastern flank but it is scenically subdued. We forest trunks Our final trip sees us return to the main ridge and head west where the land drops away steeply … head to the Pike escarpment. Here we encounter uncertain if we, or a track, could ever get around the 11. The goodnight morepork subalpine monkey scrub – tough, near-impenetrable protruding mound. To our left, a thousand metres plants that seem to eke out an existence by clustering below is the blue hue of the Tasman Sea, while the watching above our campsite together to resist and possibly feed on all survey Pike Valley off our opposite shoulder offers a faint parties. Here, rather than measuring clinometer glimpse of the mine ventilation shaft in the forest 12. The Pike escarpment which gaps in tens of metres we are reduced to arm lengths. below. Here we scramble through scrub looking for We clamber on hands and knees, our backpacks a safe passage on the near-vertical mountainside. A we threaded the trail along catching in low branches … such agony in our snail final circuit of the mound reveals the 300-vertical- pace. Our speed is reduced to less than a crawl as we metre escarpment in all its glory. It is here the Pike make several attempts in this steep gully to work out Valley terminates, tectonically lifted and tilted; in a line, then backtrack with flagging tape and return doing so it reveals the layers of strata with corrugated to confirm it. Finally this survey stretch is over as we ripples of greywacke, argillite and seams of black reach the saddle exhausted. As we pant and look up coal. We stand still in awe. These are the moments from checking our war wounds, we realise we are at that stay with you, embedded deep. 12 Special Edition 2019 105

West Coast Paparoa Track, Pike 29 Memorial Track 13 14 The sequences of the rift are truly mesmerising, as is the abruptness survey gang brings a feast of jelly snakes and other sweet assortments of the vertical drop into the wilderness. “How epic would it be for a to celebrate – they are devoured in moments by the four of us. The trail to follow this route,” we pondered, and for the next few hours we reunion too is sweet. Our success is making the unknown certain. plot a course to cut along this razor edge. We stop for lunch on the There is joy in the knowledge that the track will proceed and our few drop-off – it is the end of May and we are wrapped up as tight as the months of backcountry endeavours have not been in vain. We fly out contents of our plastic film-wrapped sandwiches. We munch on lunch together and then go our separate ways. totally mesmerised by our vista from the bluff. As we eat, two figures appear on the skyline a couple of kilometres away. Hollering like wolves Some months later, after data is compiled, the trail tweaked, and across the void we cry out in celebration as our two survey parties a track-building contract awarded … construction begins. Over the draw closer to becoming one. Hours later, before our flight back to next two years, two large new public huts are constructed, numerous Greymouth, the two parties finally meet. One thoughtful member of the mountainous guts are bridged, and the trail construction teams follow our survey lines towards the December 2019 opening. When I started Experience the iconic Shantytown Heritage Park. Open 7 Days 8.30am - 5pm 316 Rutherglen Road, Paroa. It’s an easy side-trip to visit us at Shantytown and the perfect addition for a hugely fulllling Wilderness Trail itinerary. (Turn off 8km south of Greymouth) Ride on 19th century steam trains, pan for keepsakes of gold, E: offi[email protected] discover the pioneer settlers of our West Coast landscape. P: 0800 742 689 Intriguing skerricks of detail abound regarding once bustling communities, industries and characters who have now been reclaimed by the march of time and nature. Cinch up your bowyangs and come uncover a few little nuggets of the legendary West Coast story with us. You’ll leave Shantytown contemplating the incredible history that occurred right where your tyres may tread! www.shantytown.co.nz 106 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

15 the alignment work for the Paparoa Track, the Great Rides App was 16 just an idea. Today the Great Rides App is a fully formed success, and I can’t wait until the end of the year to attend the official opening of the 13. The task of working out the alignment with the bluffs is challenging track and reunite with the survey gang again. I can’t wait to cycle the 14. The Tasman sea far below was never far away from our ridge track and map it for the app and see how the trail in the canvas of my 15. Celebration sweets as the surveying teams meet up on the escarpment tops mind has been crafted through the wild landscape by the construction 16. Waiting together for a chopper home before going our separate ways teams. What an experience, honour and pleasure it will be to mark up this new multi-day ride; it’s going to be great this new Great Walk-come- Statistics Great Ride. So as the final trail surface is laid, and the hut bookings get snatched up, have you planned your trip for the opening of the 10th 55–56km, (1km longer for riders – Grade 4) Great Walk track? Better get busy! Official Links: www.doc.govt.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores Special Edition 2019 107



West Coast Greymouth – Wilderness Trail Wheeling Through The Wilderness Feeling as if he’s on New Zealand’s wild frontier, Gary tackles the West Coast Wilderness Trail Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited T he West Coast Wilderness Trail is aptly named – in contrast down the mountains and along the Grey Valley. As the flow squeezes to much of the country, the Coast still feels like a wild frontier between the narrow gap in the hills it accelerates to quite a blast. If the with its whimsical weather, whiskery men and wildfoods barber is operating, during the cooler months it’s worth warming up festival. So when I heard about a 100+ kilometre cycle trail with a hot chocolate at a local café before setting off. being built through the wilds, I was game to go offline, ride and grow some stubble along the way. I unravelled my map and plotted a course. The start of the trail begins on the stopbank beside the Grey River, just above the train station, and many riders choose to take the TranzAlpine My wilderness trail experience started at the northern trailhead, with train from Christchurch to arrive at the trailhead – which would be a a brisk introduction to the local ‘barber’. He’s a particularly fearsome fine way to begin the adventure. For me, the adventure began when I character and Greymouth residents tell me he cuts right to the bone! powered up my three GPS units, the barber making itself known by However, this is no barber with a pair of scissors in hand but is in fact a causing my fingers to tremble on the keypads. Then I was off, warming local wind; a unique phenomenon of cool katabatic air that often flows up as I cycled past the massive dock shipping cranes towards the Special Edition 2019 109

West Coast Greymouth – Wilderness Trail 1 mouth of the Grey River. The trail hugs the shoreline, meandering its 2 way around the harbour where fishing boats shelter, before delivering me at the river mouth. Here I sight the notorious Grey Bar where the the terrifying mining exploits, harrowing river crossings and health massive rolling Tasman Sea swells gather in a tumbling crescendo before epidemics of his day. As the accommodation website claims, the stay spilling exhausted onto the beach. Watching those boats leave the shelter is a ‘rest in peace … in the dead centre of town’ – and rest I did; I wake of the harbour and take on these rolling giants is both a thrilling and refreshed and ready for my next day of wilderness riding. terrifying sight. The vantage point is a must-visit, but I don’t linger long after reading the numerous memorial plaques at the site – it is clear that Heading towards the main divide I cycle past two beautiful reservoirs not all vessels return safely over the bar with their catch. with calm waters that reflect the Alps. I then come across some cyclists who have stopped for photos. They seem to beckon me over with the I ride on southward beside the coastline as the trail weaves its way West Coast wave – as they swat the pestering sandflies. These foreigners through the flax. To the left are the forested foothills, to my right is the are prepared with bulging panniers. I suspect their heavy load is for a roaring surf break that pounds the pebbles on the shore. Despite the multi-day journey beyond this trail. We ride together into the depths surf spray mist hovering over the beach, I can see straight ahead in the of the forest enjoying each other’s company and sharing tales of our distance the white peaks of our tallest mountains, some 150 kilometres ride so far. Like me they are loving the trail, and can’t believe how away. After crossing the Taramakau River bridge, the trail leads me gentle, wide and smooth it is to ride. We follow the river and gradually inland on the former alignment of a tramway and through a corridor climb to the Kawhaka Pass, more of a blip than a bump, that reaches of trees so tall my mouth drops in awe as I ride. Gobsmacked! After 300 metres above the rolling swells of the Tasman Sea. From here our crossing a swinging suspension bridge I reach the village of Kumara. pace hastens as we follow the base of the hills and drop past Cowboys Paradise into the Arahura River catchment. Kumara is a transformed town since when I last visited. It has shaken off the image of a West Coast tumbleweed town, and is embracing its I farewell my riding companions who decide to linger longer at the heritage through stories and the renovated buildings which brim with river, and I pedal past Milltown (most riders miss it) on my way to the vitality. The grandest of the establishments is the Theatre Royal Hotel Coast’s second-largest lake. On my arrival at Lake Kaniere it is picture – the finest of stays and the best spot to quench your thirst at the end perfect. This glacier-carved hollow is filled with fresh water and today of this section of the trail. Tonight I elect to stay across the road in the has the most incredible reflections of the podocarp forest along its historic undertaker’s cottage. It’s the restored former home of the local shoreline. At the lake outlet the ride follows the historic Kaniere water mortician who must have undertaken some challenging jobs given race that was opened in the mid-1870s to provide a reliable water source for goldmining operations downstream. I can see the wooden walls of 3 110 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

4 the race trench, the original timber supplied from and pedal across the Hokitika River bridge, a graceful 1. The sweeping corners before the Milltown sawmill – locally known at the time span that takes me on to my next section of this as ‘Sawdustville’. Milltown … Mill … oh, I get it! wilderness ride. When I reach the Mahinapua Creek I Cowboys Paradise swap cruising on my bike for a boat ride, with the help I marvel at and relish the gentle bends of the of West Coast Scenic Waterways. Their trip takes us 2. Riding among the giants (Credit: water race, and follow its rich brown tannin-stained gently upstream around the bends of the creek which waters past foam floating in eddies as I ride towards is lined with the weeping branchlets of kahikatea Jason Blair) the sea. At times I slow and let my eyes follow the trees. This is nature at its best, with chattering calls white bubbles negotiating the bends of the water of birdlife filling the air and graceful movements 3. A nicely framed shelter at the race, much as a child watches a paper boat down of waterfowl on the lake. This is a real treat and a a swirling watercourse. I love these moments, little welcome respite from the saddle. Off the boat and mouth of the Grey trail delighters. The reward of a trail experience is back cruising on my bike, I mark a waypoint upon not necessarily located in the grandiose, but found reaching the rusting relics of the former Mananui 4. Mahinapua Creek is cycling by lapping up the multitude of minor moments that sawmill site. This is a fascinating place to appreciate form a journey’s richness. There is synergy on this the historic context of local industry. Next I pass over solitude (Credit: Jason Blair) trail. Before long, like the flowing waters I’ve been a 300-metre wetland boardwalk and ride on to the following, I reach the Hokitika coastline which is alignment of the former Mananui timber tramline. Special Edition 2019 111 known for its driftwood sculptures and wildfood When I reach my next stop to stretch my legs I am festival. I could easily spend another day in ‘Hoki’ pleased to find that tree felling had not exhausted wandering around town or taking a trip out to the woods. I have arrived at the West Coast Treetop Hokitika Gorge with Hokitika Scenic Tours, but I Walk, a commercial endeavour consisting of several have to keep moving as there are trails to ride. towering platforms linked by elevated boardwalks – After a restful sleep I turn on the GPS units again

West Coast Greymouth – Wilderness Trail 5 the best way to be at head height with the temperate Unsurprisingly this section offers something different rainforest giants. As if being 20 metres up in the with straight lines that run parallel with the coast; 5. Riding high on the crowns of kamahi and kahikatea trees is not sufficient the smooth surface is broken only by a truss bridge. I then climb to the top tower at twice the height. It’s Several kilometres later, the first bend in the line marks Greymouth floodwall a long way up. The lookout has views of the main my arrival at the outskirts of Ross, the goldmining (Credit: Nimmo divide and across the lake that I had enjoyed only a town and the southern trailhead. Near the trail is a Photography) couple of hours before by boat; a green cloak of forest quirky holiday park on the beachfront; their up-cycled hid the trail. The walk is a top spot to appreciate the shipping containers are modern apartment-like pods 6. Following the waterways forest before I get grounded again and get my wheels and appear to be a perfect stay at journey’s end. As for back in motion. me, my wheels make their final turns and I arrive at was a magical time the Ross Information Centre and Museum beside the I ride south where I connect onto the trail that now former open-cast-pit mine, now turned lake. 8. The easiest way to uses the former railway line to the township of Ross. appreciate the canopy tops (Credit: West Coast Treetop Walkway) Trail update 6 The trust has opened a new section of trail using the old railway timber truss bridge over the Mahinapua Creek and through an awesome section of forest before reaching the historic sawmill site. More recently the trust opened another small section of trail near Kumara that takes riders along a former gold mining water race. 112 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

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West Coast Greymouth – Wilderness Trail Monteith’s Brewery 6 Finish the trail at the iconic Monteith’s Brewery, located only 800m from the TranzAlpine train station in Greymouth (and on the West Coast since 1868). Enjoy a tasting tray of their award winning beers and ciders, fill your hard working bodies with something from their inspiring menu and take a guided brewery tour to break up the day. Open daily from 11am - 9pm this famous West Coast experience is not to be missed. Free transfers can be arranged to various hotels and motels around Greymouth and to the TranzAlpine station. You can even use the guest shower before departing on your next adventure. Bring your own towel and soap. Brewery tour bookings recommended www.thebrewery.co.nz As always, I saved my trip data for the app, turned off the GPS units, to be treated at cafés and lodges in the townships near the trail. Few and reflected on my journey. The West Coast Wilderness Trail is one other cycle trails can boast such a genuine taste of wilderness without of the great multi-day rides in the wild frontier. It’s a delightful time a punishing effort or the feeling of going without. It’s a true western away from modernity to immerse oneself in both nature and heritage. gateway to easily go … wild on wheels. However the trail is not about roughing it as there are plenty of ways This story featured in NZToday issue 82. Statistics 136km, Easy/Intermediate (Grade 2-3) Official Links: westcoastwildernesstrail.co.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores 114 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

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West Coast Lake Kaniere IDYLLIC LAKE KANIERE Walking, cycling, canoeing are just some of the activities to undertake in this gem inland from Hokitika. Story + Photos Matt Winter Mahinapua Creek is cycling solitude (Credit: Jason Blair) 1 116 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

L ake Kaniere has been described as one of the most beautiful 2 lakes in New Zealand. Situated only a short 19km inland from Hokitika, the lake is surrounded on three sides by mountains 1. A picturesque ‘post card’ morning at Sunny Bight that are capped in snow during winter, and provides a variety 2. Long-exposure image of Dorothy Falls of activities including water sports, fishing, bird watching, tramping, 3. Kent creek where it enters Lake Kaniere – a great spot for a fish or a swim waterfalls and beautiful scenic drives. The Lake Kaniere walkway is a trail that traverses native bush along the western shore of the lake, and can also be mountain biked by the more adventurous. The West Coast can be reached in as little as a couple of hours from Christchurch making it an ideal destination for holiday trips. Small West Coast ‘lake towns’ and settlements are becoming increasingly popular, and people numbers swell over the summer months as holiday makers re-open their baches and dust off their boats. One of the most popular and well-known spots is Lake Brunner and the township of Moana, inland from Greymouth. But, if you’re not too keen on busy, popular, boat-infested lakeside towns, look just a tad further south to Lake Kaniere. I see Lake Kaniere as the little brother to Lake Brunner and in my opinion, the area is even more beautiful than its ‘bigger brother’. By road, Lake Kaniere is only 19km east from Hokitika. The lake itself is known for its placid calm waters, stunning mountain views and lush native bush which grows right down to the lake edge. There are several picnic areas, numerous short walks, longer more arduous tramps and mountain-biking tracks. The lake provides some great fishing for wily trout, recreational water sports and swimming in the many quiet bays and beaches. In Hans Bay there is a DOC campsite that contains 40 non-powered sites on a large, grassy lake-front location and is suitable for caravans and motorhomes. The campground is on an elevated area, which means that you get a great view overlooking the lake. One of the highlights for me when I stayed there a few nights in my caravan was waking up each morning to a breathtaking vista of a flat calm Lake Kaniere. As the site is on a first-come first-served basis, no bookings are required and the fees are very minimal. Flush toilets are available, as is a drinking water supply. 3 Special Edition 2019 117

West Coast Lake Kaniere 4 5 normal flows the streams can be jumped across without getting wet feet. Near the southern end of the lake is one of the most endearingly LAKE KANIERE WALKWAY The Lake Kaniere walkway starts at the north-western corner of the quirky geographical names I have come across in my travels. Lawyers Delight Beach is actually not much of a beach at all but I love the name lake at the end of Sunny Bight Road. Sunny Bight itself is a picturesque nonetheless. At the southern end of Lawyers Delight a small impassable bay with a small cluster of houses and a delightful picnic area. bluff comes right down to the water’s edge. DOC have built a very cunning two-flight, wooden stairway to negotiate the tricky section, The first few kilometres of the Lake Kaniere walkway comprises a making it a piece of cake – although lugging a mountain bike up the flat and easy track that is benched, wide and obstacle free. The track stairs takes a lot more effort than if you were simply hiking the track. literally hugs the lake edge with the many small bays and coves giving good access to look for cruising trout. I was tempted to take my fly rod The next one kilometre of track becomes quite steep and rugged from with me but it would have been rather awkward considering I chose to a mountain-biking perspective. There is a fair bit of walking the bike up do the track on a mountain bike. If you are a keen hiker and angler, a this section, and although steeper than the rest of the trail, if you are good option would be to take all day to do the walk, that would allow walking the track it is still relatively easy. Partway up the climb there ample time to explore the lake edges for fish. is a lookout point with great views of the lake providing a good excuse for a deserved rest. From the top of the short sharp climb it is only About halfway along the walk, the track does become a bit narrower about 700 metres of gentle downhill and flats to Dorothy Falls Road. with a few more exposed stones, tree roots and small water courses to cross. If you’re on ‘Shanks’ pony’ they aren’t a problem, but if you choose The most popular option when walking or biking this track is to leave to do the trail on a bike the difficulty rating goes up and more care is a shuttle vehicle at the end of the trail where it meets Dorothy Falls needed. Kent Creek and Hooker Creek are two side streams that enter Road. However, if you’re a very keen mountain biker and looking for a the lake from the steep bush-covered slopes above the track and can longer, more challenging day, you can simply bike all the way back to the have a decent amount of water flowing down them after a heavy rain. In start on the gravelled Dorothy Falls Road. Whichever way you decide 118 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle to do it, be sure to stop at Dorothy Falls on the way back. It is a mere 1–2 minutes walk off the road to the falls and is well worth the time. Try setting your camera up on a tripod or handy rock and get a long exposure of a second or two for some silky smooth waterfall images. The Lake Kaniere walkway is not the only attraction of this area. If you have more than just the one day, check out these other points of interest … KANIERE WATER RACE WALKWAY This walk follows a historic powerstation water race that meanders through the native bush of a scenic reserve. The track starts at the Landing

on the northern edge of Lake Kaniere and finishes at Kennedy Creek on 6 the Hokitika–Lake Kaniere road. The whole trail is approximately 10km long and takes 3–4 hours, but a popular shorter trip involves going from the Landing to Wards Road car park which only takes about an hour. The track is also great for mountain biking and is actually part of the West Coast Wilderness Trail. Between the Landing and Ward Road it is relatively easy riding, while the remaining section is more suitable for intermediate/advanced riders. CANOE COVE WALK Fifteen minutes of very easy walking through mature stands of rimu and kahikatea forest takes you to a sheltered sandy beach ideal for picnics and swimming. The track begins at the car park opposite the Hans Bay Road/Milltown Road intersection. DOROTHY CREEK BEACH WALK Opposite the Dorothy Falls mentioned earlier, a short track winds its way down through native bush and ferns to the edge of Lake Kaniere. I found some very cool ferns, funky plant roots and fungi on this wee walk which made for some neat photographs. KAHIKATEA FOREST WALK Six hundred metres and 10 minutes is all it takes to complete this little loop nature walk. The trail follows Sunny Bight Creek through kahikatea forest, crosses over a swamp via a wooden boardwalk and ends up right where you started. A good time to do this one might be when some other unlucky people in your party are driving the shuttle vehicle to the end of the Lake Kaniere walkway. 4. The wooden stairway at Lawyers Delight Beach Lake Kaniere Walk 5. One of the family of weka that live around the Hans Bay campsite Way at a Glance 6. Lush bush ferns on the edge of Lake Kaniere Lake Kaniere – 19km from Hokitika along Lake Kaniere road 7. Sunny Bright Road picnic area Start (or end, depending which way you go) is at the road end just past Sunny 7 Bight picnic area Grade Walking: easy Biking: moderate to advanced Time Walking: 4 hours Biking: 2 to 4 hours Distance: 10.5km Birdlife to see: weka (a few at the camp ground), pīwakawaka - fantail, riroriro - grey warbler, korimako - bellbird, tūī, finches, miromiro - tomtit, kererū -wood pigeon Tips • Take your camera for magnificent lake reflections on a calm day • Keep your eye out for a variety of native birds, and cruising trout on the lake edges • Allow time to organise a shuttle vehicle where the track meets Dorothy Falls Road at the southern end of the lake • For a longer, more demanding day, ride back to the start via Dorothy Falls Road on the eastern side of the lake • Be sure to stop at Dorothy Falls for views of a stunning waterfall Special Edition 2019 119

West Coast Bain Bay - Lake Brunner A SECLUDED 1 PIECE OF 2 PARADISE Matt discovers a secluded piece of paradise tucked away on the shores of Lake Brunner, the peaceful Bain Bay. Story + Photos Matt Winter 120 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

L ake Brunner has become a very popular summer 3 destination for many Kiwis, many of whom own holiday homes on the shores of the lake. I recently discovered a secluded piece of paradise tucked away on the south-western side of the lake, away from the busy boat traffic, jet skis and water skiers. Requiring little more than a gentle 2.5-hour walk round the lakeshore, through beautiful native bush, and sidling past a bird-rich wetland, it is just the ‘cup of tea’ to settle the soul. Moana, at the northern end of Lake Brunner, is a pretty busy place in the summer months. Holiday homes and baches abound, with many of the owners and occupants enjoying the myriad of recreational water sports on offer on the lake. Motor boats, jet skis, water ‘biscuits’ and water skis are the toys of choice, which at times can make for a fairly chaotic sort of environment. However, if that sort of thing is not particularly to your liking, look to the south-western side of Lake Brunner for a very pleasant and stress-free half-day outing that should recharge your batteries just nicely. The Bain Bay walking track is 7.2km (return) of very easy, flat walking that will generally only take you 2.5 hours to complete. One of the main features of this walk is the restored and maintained wetland at the beginning of the track. The destination of Bain Bay itself brings another, rather more intangible, feature – that being a wonderful feeling of seclusion and isolation, removing you from all your stresses and worries. THE TRACK The start of the Bain Bay walking track lies at the boat launching ramp at the tiny settlement of Mitchells, opposite the Lake Brunner Lodge. The beginning of the track is signposted including a warning of possible wet feet (or worse, being impassable) if recent rains have lifted the lake level. Your first step on the track is up onto a boardwalk that initially takes you through a kahikatea swamp with huge flax bushes hemming you in on both sides. Scattered mature kahikatea trees extend a couple of dozen metres into the air dwarfing the flax and boardwalk beneath. 1. One of only about 200 kōtuku (white heron) left in New Zealand – a very pleasant surprise on the Bain Bay walk 2. A view looking out over Lake Brunner taken from the wetland 3. Large kahikatea trees at the beginning of the Bain Bay walk 4. Seclusion and isolation – southern end of Bain Bay 4 Special Edition 2019 121

West Coast Bain Bay - Lake Brunner 6 5 5. Another shot of the kōtuku (white heron) 7 6. A fly-rod would have been handy as we walked beside the water’s edge at Carew Bay 7. Remains of the L-shape wharf at Bain Bay 8. The boardwalk high above swampy ground in bush just prior to Bain Bay 9. Tramline and carriage ‘bits and pieces’ from the logging era can still be seen at Bain Bay 10. Paradise shelduck in Carew Bay wetland Five hundred or so metres and two foot bridges later, the wetland trout fishery with above-average numbers for a lake of its size. Bear comes into view on your left. My first glimpse of the open water in the this in mind if you too happen to be an avid angler, and perhaps do as wetland revealed a lovely surprise In the form of a kōtuku (white heron) I should have … take the fishing rod! stalking stealthily amongst the weeds for small fish, frogs and aquatic insects. The current population of these iconic New Zealand birds is As the wetland peters out, the track drops onto the sands of the only about 200 individuals, so seeing this one was a real treat. During lakeshore to end up at the northern end of Carew Bay where the beach spring and summer, kōtuku congregate to breed at the Waitangiroto sands give way to native forest. The trail maintains its low level in the nature reserve near Whataroa on the West Coast, but outside those bush and is very easy underfoot as it navigates around the peninsula months they disperse all round the country as individuals, returning to between Carew Bay and Bain Bay. A few small muddy and wet patches specific locations year after year. The reason I mention this is that there in the track don’t take any of the enjoyment away from this pleasant is every chance you will see this very bird on your walk to Bain Bay. section of the walk. Kōtuku are not the only bird species that frequent the wetland of There is a variety of native birds on this section of track albeit not in course. Paradise shelducks, and a variety of shags and wekas were also huge numbers. Ngirungiru (tomtit),  korimako (bellbird),  kererū (wood present on or around the swampy areas. In fact as soon as I arrived at pigeon), tūī and riroriro (grey warbler) were fairly constant companions the boat ramp carpark, two very friendly and curious wekas emerged all the way round the bush peninsula. A very gentle 1.8km of easy bush from the surrounding vegetation, obviously well used to the presence travel takes you to the southern end of Bain Bay and once again onto a soft of humans. sand beach. You also have the option to stay on the track and boardwalk which runs parallel to the shoreline just inside the bush. Either way, you’ll The water’s edge around Carew Bay is literally spitting distance from end up at your destination of Bain Bay and the grassy campsite, picnic (and sometimes right at) your feet. Being a keen fly fisherman, my eyes tables and a toilet that exist there. were continually looking out into the shallows of the bay for feeding trout and I wasn’t disappointed! Without looking too hard at all, I saw Bain Bay is steeped in the history of the logging industry that thrived at least a dozen 1-2kg trout cruising in one to two feet of water gulping there in the early 1900s. The bush country behind Bain Bay was heavily down nymphs of some sort. If I had known about these fish I would logged (mainly rimu) and the logs then carted to the bay by tramline. The have taken my fly rod and spent the other half of the day fishing for logs were pushed into the lake on skids and tied to rafts then towed across them. Lake Brunner has a reputation for being a very healthy brown the lake by barge to sawmills at Cashmere Bay. It took approximately two 122 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle hours to tow 25 to 50 logs.

89 During the 1940s, near its peak, Bain Bay had five During the middle of the summer holiday season Bain Bay Walk married couples and 20 single men living there. Being when I did the walk, there were a couple of families at a Glance so isolated did not deter these hardy folk. Every Sunday at Bain Bay that had arrived by boat. I would imagine the men would make the two-hour walk to the pub at that outside this period, you would probably have the Start of track – From Mitchells! And for the womenfolk in Bain Bay, a radio whole bay to yourself. It is a very tranquil spot with Moana, head south on was brought in to give them at least some sort of contact no visible signs of human alteration as you gaze out Lake Brunner Road for with the outside world. onto the lake, and it’s not hard to imagine that the 26.2km logging folk would have had exactly the same view Turn right onto Kumara After spending as long as you like soaking up the 70 or 80 years ago. Inchbonnie Road for history, seclusion and natural setting, it is a simple case of 11.8km to Mitchells retracing your steps along the same track back to the start. This story featured in NZToday issue 80. Start of track at boat ramp opposite Lake 10 Brunner Lodge Grade: easy Time: 2.5 hours return Distance: 7.2km return Birdlife to see: kōtuku (white heron), weka, fantail grey warbler, bellbird, tūī, tomtit, wood pigeon, variety of shags, paradise shelduck Tips: • Take a fishing rod. Good fishing for brown trout along lake edges. • Carry a camera for chance of photographing friendly wekas and rare white heron, not to mention stunning scenery. • Take note of lake level after recent rains - track may be impassable Special Edition 2019 123

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