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NZToday-Special Collectors Edition South Island Walks and Cycle Trails

Published by NZToday-RV Lifestyle Magazine, 2022-09-15 03:31:48

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14 15 AHURIRI MOTELS 12. The rock formations grow huge on the way to Elephant Rocks 13. Oamaru Gardens was a surprise and delight 14. Into and out of the bowels of the earth 15. Being framed in Oamaru at the end of the trail Enjoy a home away from home in Omarama Not your Usual Gift ShopPO Box 63, 395 Glen Lyon Road, Twizel, New Zealand 5 Clay Cliffs Lane, Omarama | 0800 438 945 P : +64 3 435 0144 E : [email protected] www.ahuririmotels.co.nz www.A2Ocycletours.co.nz F : +64 3 435 0149 PO Box 63, 395 Glen Lyon Road, Twizel, New Zealand info@notarailtrail P : +64 3 435 0144 E : [email protected] Gift Shop - Art Gallery - Clothing store F : +64 3 435 0149 NZ: 0800 429 253 Aust: 1800 445 709 ROW: +64 3428 2912 1 Harbour Street, Oamaru | Victorian Precinct www.matukaluxurylodgew.cowmw.matukaluxurylodge.com ExvpieevEwrixeispeweansrtciaeMetnvEtMcariexteaaupttnwrukeaqkasnrauqiLaeiLulotloniildtdlMciygtgeyaeeaa,nt,tnTrTudwdawksniszaittzqeuuelLun,nlon,NinlNidleniinwegtgygwemZma,eoZanuTeolnwdaautnlaiadnszinntteuadlin,nnNienwg mountain Zealand MAPS | COMPASSES | GPS | TRACKERS | BEACONS Witness the staggering beauty of the But you know what? Nothing beats just sitting Everything you need to stay safe Southern Alps, Lake Pukaki and the Twizel back and taking in the view of the Southern whilst cycling and tramping in area. Explore the wWointdneersssoftthhee Wstoargldgering beAalpustyfroomf ytohuer north-facing deckB. Wuthaytoeuvekr now what? Nothing beats just sitting the great outdoors. tthoinlegabAvwealep.ccskanfarondmtyaokuinrgnionrtthh-efavcieinwg PO Box 63, 395 Glen Lyon Rd, TwizelAHleprsita2gOecleisatendCMyctlaSeCroweouaoaytk.haNEneadxrtnpisoklnAioianrllgpePsaatt,rhkOLe,ahthakweueo. PndukearskygiououaafrrnattdnahtseetteehW:ienyooaTurcwltwdivizoitenie'lts,woannet of the Southern 35 Moorhouse Ave, Christchurch deck. Whatever 03 3745399 | [email protected] Heritage listed Mt Cook National Park, the your taste in activities, one thing we can www.mapworld.co.nz P. +64 3 435 0144 | E. [email protected] Box 63, 395 GAlelpnsLy2onORcde,aTnwiCzeyl,cNleZw| aPy. +a6n4d3s4k3ii5n0g14a4t O| [email protected]: you won't want to leave. PO Box 63, 395 Glen Lyon Rd, Twizel, NZ | P. +64 3 435 0144 | E. [email protected] www.matukaluxurylodge.com Relax in the spacious comfort of a holiday home; enjoy the peaceful tranquility of Tekapo. View full listing and book online: www.tekapoholidayhomes.co.nz Special Edition 2019 49

Central Otago Roxburgh Gorge 50 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Gorging on Greatness Gary tackles the Roxburgh Gorge Trail, a ride that includes a 13km jet boat trip Story + Photos Gary Patterson or as credited W hich to choose: staring all day at a computer in order to keep the Great Rides App in shape, or steering my bike through a river gorge to keep myself in shape? Today I choose the latter, so leaving early morning from my home on the shores of moody Lake Wakatipu I head to the cycle trails of Central Otago. When I arrive I find there are a lot of trail choices; in fact, there are four NZ Great Rides all within an hour’s drive. Trail expansion too is in the pipeline and a $26 million, 120-kilometre building project will soon link the southern Great Rides into an unparalleled cycle trail network. My mind boggles at the thought of a continuous 500-kilometre-plus cycle trail network connecting more than 30 townships. The project to build a trail between the towns of Cromwell and Clyde is about to commence shortly, but today I kick off my ride at the twin bridges below downtown Alexandra. The day could not be more perfect. For an area that experiences some of the hottest and coldest temperatures in the country, this morning is clear and mild. Already the sun’s rays give a glow to the poplars in full colour, their leaves drifting to earth while I prepare. I switch on the GPS units beside the gentle current of our country’s largest river; the Clutha River will be my companion today. It flows beneath the nearby historic stone bridge as well as the more modern span that I soon cross. I hit the trail – and it’s immediately great, from the views I can see ahead. Beyond my handlebars is a golden leaf litter that crackles under my tyres. The trail here is wide and firm with gravel hiding under the drifts of autumn’s fall. As I turn a corner the landscape tightens, the herb fields and dry rocky outcrops seem to pop up to meet me as I leave urbanity. I am not alone, as the occasional walker and wheeler join me heading downstream in the tightening river gorge. The Roxburgh Gorge Trail is a playful cross-country ride in three acts. The opening act is a 10-kilometre cycle into the gorge; at the midpoint, the second act begins in the form of a necessary jetboat connection to the final act, an 11-kilometre cycling climax to the Roxburgh Dam. If the opening scenes I’ve experienced so far, continue during the ride, I’m surely in for a cracker of a day. After riding for a few minutes I squeeze between the schist rock bluffs of the Narrows and cruise along the elevated river terrace that offers vistas of the turquoise waters. Time slips away and all too soon I reach the terminus of this section of trail at Doctors Point. Here we cyclists gather with excited anticipation, listening in the silence for the deep thrum of the jetboat. There are two pre-arranged boat operators who service the trail; Beaumont Jet and Clutha River Cruises. I choose to ‘cruise’ with owner- operator Laurence on an early afternoon pickup. Entering the Roxburgh Gorge is near-perfection Special Edition 2019 51

Central Otago Roxburgh Gorge 1 Loading the bikes on the rear boat rack takes little time, while all on in the country, doubling our electricity production as well as saving board tighten lifejackets and find comfy seats. Getting onto the boat the south from further power shortages. The waters of the new lake is easy-peasy using a dedicated jetty that extends out into the water. rose at a rate of a metre per hour, drowning many of the gold-mining Laurence seems to know all the secret riverside relics, and just as we relics and creating the 30-kilometre-long lake that extends back towards leave he points out a stone shelter ruin tucked under the Doctors Point Alexandra. We reach the site of Mrs Heron’s Cottage which was once viewpoint. Remarkable! Three times I have visited this viewpoint without on the banks of what the Māori called ‘Mata-au’ (surface current), discovering the concealed hide. but renamed ‘Molyneux’ by early European explorers, and in turn renamed by Scottish settlers as the Clutha River. Today, the expanse In a moment, we go from cruising sedately to planing as the jetboat roars of water below the doorstep of this historic listed mud-mortar cottage to life, lifting the hull higher in the water. Soon we are shooting past the is known as Lake Roxburgh. precipitous schist walls of the gorge and the breeze awakens our senses. A guided boat trip on the river highway of yesteryear is the best way The story behind this largely intact home is inspiring. Harriet Ann to take in the early gold-mining tales, and as we head downstream we Heron (nee Buttress) was an English settler who arrived in Lyttelton soon find that our driver is both a master navigator and narrator. We with her husband in 1858. Unfortunately he died two years later in a stop and view the flats at Fourteen Mile Creek, once a thriving tent surfboat accident at Timaru, and she then remarried to Henry Herbert camp for gold prospectors back in the day, today an abandoned terrace Heron and settled in Dunedin. One day Mr Heron had arranged for a with little sign of the goldfield. mob of sheep to be sent to the Lindis diggings, but when the Gabriels Gully gold rush was reported he diverted the sheep to Lawrence near We continue downriver or should that be down-lake? The Roxburgh this new goldfield, and the couple subsequently decided to settle there. Dam was completed in the mid-1950s and was the first large-scale dam The Herons ran a successful butcher shop in Lawrence – it was more of a temporary structure made of calico – and one of her regular customers 2 was Gabriel Read. After the discovery of gold in Dunstan, Mr Heron prospected near Long Valley (later renamed Roxburgh) where he was 52 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle soon joined by his wife who travelled there alone without roads or bridged river crossings. They then relocated again to Fourteen Mile Beach to work a claim at what is now a jetboat stop. They lived there in a tent for three years, but when the gold diminished they moved downstream to the banks of our current jetboat stop. Here the couple built the cottage we are facing and operated a store and butchery. Mrs Heron is remembered as one of the few women who lived in the gold- mining camps during the Otago gold rush. She passed away in 1931 at the age of 93 years, and was fittingly known as the ‘Grand old lady of Roxburgh’. Our next and last stop on the 13-kilometre jetboat trip is Shingle Creek. Here we disembark and Laurence puts our bikes back on solid

34 ground. We bid farewell to Clutha River Cruises’ master for the first time I can see the rocky tops of the Knobby 1. Riding down to storyteller. Before leaving I see there is a bach-like shelter Range. On this stretch I can see the elbow of the lake that tucked into scrub beside the lake. I investigate. I find leads both north and east. Below I see the white-water Roxburgh Dam is a delight some rough outdoor seating complete with an outdoor wash from a speeding boat, the perfect pattern of the wake potbelly stove; inside the rough shack are old sofas a contrast to the lumpy faces of the random rocky outcrops. 2. Doctors Point – that complete the bachelor pad. It’s a retreat of a kind, My eye follows the trail as it winds and disappears a casual hideout for mates to meet up after arriving by through elevated terraces and nooks; soon I am awaiting the drone and water or wheels. I leave this crib of comfort to the rough drawn into this terrain of the Hidden Valley and its landscape. There’s no comfort as the curtain of the third sweeping bends. Next, I meet two sets of climbing thrum of the jetboat act soon rises and so too does my bike as I enter a long switchbacks. The first is a warm-up of several wide corners followed by another set a few hundred metres 3. To cruise or to ride, or Clutha Goldclimb. The rising gradient is made easier as it’s a wide beyond. While I’m not a fan of trails that appear like zigzag stitching on a hillside’s fabric, I love this second one. to do both? and smooth trail surface, and the slope soon eases as it Here, with greater effort, I press my feet hard into the extenCdsOinTtoT AthGe rEecSess of a dogleg corner aptly named pedals as I sing (well… puff anyway) the praises of the trail 4. The only way to Elbow Creek. builders who conquered the giant bluff I’m ascending. connect with the trail AwftwerwI.lceal uvtehtahge loelgdocfotht teadgoegs,.tchoe.lankze reappears and I start myRdaeelqasuxcieeantfttpe.erHaaecdreaefuytlhoseunrvrtohieeuwntrdsaianilrgien just magnificent, and (Clutha River Cruises) Clutha Gold Backpackers Paradise in COTTAGES Roxburgh www.cluthagoldcottages .co.nz We have Relax after a day on the trail in a quiet peaceful surrounding • Large house sleeps 11 people HIGHLAND BIKE HIRE OFFERS: ComTmheercial beds for • Powered/Non-powered Sites • High quality new bikes for men, women and kids bikes too! • Indoor/Outdoor Play Areas • Accessories such as kids seats, • Quiet Secluded Cottages Hotel ph 03 446 8160 trunk bags and even a kids insta-tandem! email: • GREAT VALUE MOTEL • Free planning advice on the best trips for you! • Online booking for your convenience • Roxburgh East Road, Roxburgh, Central Otago [email protected] • QIPLnaoudrwgioeeeotrrSeh/edOoc/uulNsutRedodoonesElo-dexprembCoPpwluoaTsateeyrt1iagr1lA0el:g:hdpr3e0eceSsa3Eoil4tsauep4C4slste4hth66rRai88sogt33aion66dle4d4, •BcR•eooM0nxtot2nbabe7ug:nr2ge0bs0h2ro7@,3Ce27xke0t03nr6at7r1a.0c6loO1.ntazgo CALL 0800 HIGHLAND • Ph 03 446 8009 | 107 Scotland Street, Roxburgh 9500 cell 027 449 9981 • Vist www.highlandbikehire.co.nz today! • GREAT VALUE MOETmELail: [email protected] Christine Bennenbroek THKEIWOIRIIGCOINNAL Roxburgh East Road, Roxburgh, Central Otago Tel: 03 446 8364 • Mob: 027 203 7061 Email: [email protected] 143 Scotland Street, Roxburgh, Central Otago Shop: 03 446 9012 Business: 03 446 8172 email: [email protected] Special Edition 2019 53

Central Otago Roxburgh Gorge 5 6 5. Negotiating the meanderings of both trail and river 6. This shelter seemed a perfect spot to hang out Then after some wiggly downhill I reach the trailhead, just above the road above with its brief glimpses of the gorge, this route plunges into humming dam that formed the lake some decades ago. The view over the river canyon and onto the waters. I enjoyed cruising the path of the the huge dam and river is towards the carpark of the Clutha Gold Trail prospectors and hearing the rich tales of days long gone. Cycling the trail – another NZ Cycle Trail … and equally epic. is an honest cross-country ride but one gently aided by wide and stable paths. Boy, it was devoid of cyclists today! – only a few of us compared As for me, I am done cycling for today. The Roxburgh Gorge Trail to the much larger numbers on the Otago Central Rail Trail just over has been a brief respite before I return to the computer and continue a mile away. The Roxburgh Gorge is often overlooked and completely updating the Great Rides App. The trail is not only a day-ride between two under-rated. One day soon, word of this striking trail will get out and Great Rides and the shortest on the NZ Cycle Trail; it is also a standalone a rush of riders will stake a claim for a ride that is as good as gold. track that allows one to gorge on greatness as I have just done. It’s a trail hidden from the highway as it travels along the waterway. Unlike the This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 77. Trail update Construction of the Lake Dunstan Trail has now commenced and the build is divided into two stages. Stage one which is hoped to be open before Christmas will connect Pisa Moorings to Bannockburn via Cromwell. Stage two, expected to be open by the end of 2020 will connect Bannockburn to Clyde Dam via the rocky terrain on the opposite side of the lake from the Lake Dunstan highway. This will be a stunning cycle trail of approximately 52 kilometres in length. For the Roxburgh Gorge Trail a new jetboat operator of Central Water Taxis now also connects riders between the two trail sections. Statistics 21km + 13km jetboat trip. Easy to Intermediate Trail (Grade 2–3) Official Links: www.cluthagold.co.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores 54 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

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Central Otago Otago Central Rail Trail The beauty of the landscape is a real highlight of the trail (OCRTM and Tim Hawkins) 56 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

The Granddaddy of Greatness The Otago Central Rail Trail is New Zealand’s oldest cycle trail and has achieved legendary status for many keen cyclists Story + Photos Gary Patterson or as credited Special Edition 2019 57

Central Otago Otago Central Rail Trail 1 without precedent. Arriving at the Clyde trailhead early one morning I start my familiar A sk any kiwi cyclist what they know about the Great Rides and they will inevitably refer to the Otago Central Rail Trail. It’s routine of attaching and warming up the GPS units on my bike while already legendary. As I prepared to travel to Central Otago I gather my gear for the ride. Every so often I would turn to watch the I pondered the notion of whether this trail had earned its spectacle that surrounded me. The carpark was an emotional scene status simply due to being the first of the cycle trails, the granddaddy; reminiscent of the heightened atmosphere of an airport, filled with or on its own merits by delivering unique charms that enhance the laughter and the tears of separation and relief. There is a collection of journey – I was about to find out! bikes scattered around the area with riding gear orbiting it like satellites around each group. There is excited chattering in several tongues coupled Opening at the turn of the century, the trail is a generation older with the spectrum of brightly coloured clothing; the sights and sounds than most of the new kids on the block. The former railway line was stick with me. Never before have I seen such a colourful gathering and transferred to the Department of Conservation (DOC) in the early vibe at any trailhead. 1990s, and the Otago Central Rail Trail Trust worked with DOC to transform the line to a cycle trail and manage it thereafter – about the And we’re off. Our varied pedal speeds soon separate us into clusters time I was still getting to grips with my first mountain bike. The vision heading east along the railway straights to Alexandra and beyond. The must have been a challenging concept at a time less ridden. I marvel at dry landscape is broken only by schist outcrops, the railway cuttings at how those trustees could have possibly pulled off such a massive idea times revealing rich layered schist foliations. Before 2 long we regroup at Chatto Creek, a quaint tavern that was once a Cobb & Co coach stopover. While 58 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle others collect refreshments, I collect waypoints on the GPS, photos, and stories of yesteryear for the Great Rides App that I have developed. Leaving the tavern and drinkers, I continue inland along the line to one of the most extreme climatic zones of any ‘Mainland’ towns. I make a small detour at Omakau to reach Ophir, where I’m richly rewarded with gold-mining history and the charm of commercial buildings dressed in schist facades. It feels like a Hollywood recreation of a mining town … except this is real. It would be easy to spend more time here for lunch, dinner or even overnighting but my sleeping bag and tent on the back of my silver steed are destined for Ranfurly – a long day ride for me, but normally ridden in two. Further along the trail, just past lovely Lauder

I reach the Poolburn Gorge, often considered the 3 1. The Poolburn Gorge is a highlight of the trail. It is definitely one of mine. Climbing gently from the town is the curved viaduct the Hayes museum is a delight. A tour of the workshop delightful experience over the willow-lined Manuherikia River – one of is exceptional with working belts, bellows and tool the longest viaducts on the trail and a graceful span boxes that give an insight to an entrepreneurial couple 2. The Gilchrist General Store to behold. Not long after this the trail enters the of the 1800s. The whole place whirs and whines, and gorge, slowly winding up the hill to one of two long belts flap and machines grind. Fantastic! It’s often open is like going back to yesteryear tunnels – the cold air in the darkness of the tunnel is to the public, but not always running. Told here is a welcome respite from the furnace-like conditions the incredible story of pioneer Ernest who invented (OCRTM and James Jubb) outside. I’m not one for heat, but my wife is. She was a range of ingenious tools to simplify his farm work. lapping it up! After crossing a second viaduct high Meanwhile his wife, Hannah, dressed in an ankle- 3. Visiting Golden Progress above the Ida Burn there is a blissful descent into length skirt, took intrepid bicycle trips for multiple Oturehua. Although I’m writing about ‘hills’, the days at a time right throughout the wild Maniototo poppet head makes for an thing to keep in mind is that trains don’t generally and Mackenzie selling the homemade tools – 100 go up steep inclines, so biking the Otago Central years before the rail trail was even just rail! interesting detour off the trail Rail Trail is generally a mellow affair – at least with regard to gradients. Wind, snow and heat … well 4. Ophir’s Red Bridge (Daniel you take your chances there folks. There can be some real extremes here, and it is part of what makes the O’Connell Bridge) is a worthy ride special. The land is forged by those forces, and somehow you just absorb it. Soak it in. Feel this land detour (OCRTM and Tim Hawkins) get under your skin, knowing it will call you back once you return home. Oturehua is the home of the seemingly unchanged and nostalgic Gilchrist’s General Store – the oldest operating in the country. Entering the store is the closest I will ever get to being a time traveller, with the inside of the store being just like those from old cowboy movies. I grapple with pronunciation of this town’s name so much so that I am helped by some ‘Oh-Terry-Who-A’ locals. Also on the edge of ‘Oh-Terry’ is Heritage NZ’s Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead – a must-do in my view. Even for the least mechanically minded, 4 Special Edition 2019 59

Central Otago Otago Central Rail Trail 5 BECAUSE WE ARE ALL ABOUT YOU 25 Holloway Street, Historic Clyde email: [email protected] Ph: 0800 245 366 NZ Freephone Ph: 1800 446 356 Australian Freephone www.bikeitnow.co.nz 60 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

6 Waipiata before reaching the upper Taieri Gorge – my friends have stayed in the Waipiata Pub on two previous rail trail trips and loved Not far away and just off the trail is the Golden Progress underground the welcoming environment and wholesome food. Meanwhile I get mine; a short walk takes us past tailings to the mine shaft. This is a great to the gorge which offers a visual transition both in geology and land place to hop off the saddle for a stroll into the scrubby foothills, past a cover. As I ride through rail cuttings, I see exposed volcanic basalt cute stone miner’s cottage before reaching the original large wooden intrusions coupled with schist; the familiar dry brown landscape now structure of the poppet head. That’s the big frame thing above a mine revealing hints of green. The gorge is a welcome break from the plains, shaft with a cable hoist that lowered and raised equipment and miners. with a tunnel and viaducts … or is that bridges? Google tells me that This poppet head is one of only two left in the country. The shaft here all viaducts are bridges, and yet not all bridges are viaducts – I never is 45 metres deep. I’ve waypointed this place into my GPS, so Great got to the bottom of that. Rides App users can find their way here. When I pass an unassuming rail cutting past Hyde I’m dragged Back on the main trail I climb up to the highest point of the trail back to a sadder focus – a dark part of our country’s history. The on Seagull Hill (618m). From here the trail is generally downhill Hyde railway disaster occurred in 1943 just prior to the then ‘King’s passing Wedderburn to reach the Maniototo Plains – a section of trail Birthday’ weekend. The tragedy occurred at Straws Cutting. Here in a that looks as if a cartographer has drawn a 15-kilometre straight line curved slot cut through a hill, a steam train travelling at 112kph failed across the map. Wedderburn was made famous in Grahame Sydney’s to negotiate a 48kph bend. The train derailed and the impact was painting of the railway station – looking so bleak you feel cold just massive. The engine ploughed on 60 metres from where it left the tracks, looking at it. In fact it made Wedderburn SO famous that the good seven passenger carriages derailed, four of them concertinaed together people of Wedderburn relocated the railway building back onto the with the second carriage somehow ending up in front of the engine. rail trail. Halfway along the plains Ranfurly beckons, and my tired legs The attending doctor described the scene as being like the result of a come to a halt. It’s been a long day of riding and recording, so much bomb blast. Twenty-one passengers perished. One surviving passenger so that I’m too late to take on provisions in small-town New Zealand. unbelievably got thrown out one window, hit the bank and rebounded I pitch my tent at the local campground, eat a Chelsea bun and turn back in through another window! First to reach the horrific scene was a in early – spending only a few minutes awake in the art deco capital of local farmer. This was his land. His son had boarded the train at Hyde the south. Next morning, I return to the cartographer’s line shooting just minutes before. Heartbreakingly his son was among the dead. like an arrow across the Maniototo Plains. The train driver was found drunk and was later imprisoned for three years. The next notable feature on the trail is ‘blink-and-you’ll-miss-it’ 7 8 5. One of the several former railway tunnels that allow cyclists to cool off as they ride through them (OCRTM and Tim Hawkins) 6. The Wedderburn shed provides a welcome shelter on the Maniototo (OCRTM and James Jubb) 7. The magic of the former railway line, the schist outcrops and the legendary trail 8. It feels like the trains departed not long ago (OCRTM - Hannah Cameron Randall) Special Edition 2019 61

Central Otago Otago Central Rail Trail 9 After passing the rock cairn memorial near the point of the crash, the cafés thrown into the traditional mix, showing the trail is bringing new trail straightens soberly as it stretches towards Middlemarch, so named opportunities to small towns in the region. I decide to treat myself to because the two nearby rivers are separated by a creek which formed a a large meat pie and salad after my meagre meal the night before. It’s border or ‘march’ between them. At Middlemarch is a fascinating and really good. As I wait for my shuttle back, I reflect on my journey of sudden transition between the end of the cycle trail and the beginning the past two days, and revisit the question I posed right at the start. of the still-operational train line to Dunedin. It caught me off guard. The town has a real country feel about it with a few cycle operators and Is the rail trail popular because of its status as the original Great Ride, or does it have greatness through its own merits? Having now Ride the Rail Trail with 3 mates during Spring and save. Experience the pioneering heritage and stunning natural landscape of the iconic Otago Central Rail Trail, New Zealand’s original rail trail open to cyclists, walkers or horse riders of all ages to enjoy. Backpackers, bunkhouses, luxury lodges and plenty of eateries strung out along the trail, all famous for theieir southern hospitality, combine to make your visit unforgettable. 152 kilometers of spectacular cycling starts right here: www.otagocentralrailtrail.co.nz 62 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Statistics 152km, Easy Grade 1 Official Links: otagocentralrailtrail.co.nz/ Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores ridden all of the 22 Great Rides I know that each trail brings something This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 71. exceptional to the national cycle trails. The special qualities I discovered on this trail were the rich pioneering history across the prairie-like 10 landscape, the romantic railway-era realism while crossing viaducts, and the big-sky vistas that come into view on exiting the tunnels. This 9. In parts the trail is a straight line on a map (OCRTM and Tim Hawkins) trail bursts with greatness. 10. The shelters scattered along the trail provide much appreciated refuge Trails, like people, become legendary not necessarily by being the best, (OCRTM and Tim Hawkins) but by venturing into uncharted areas, pushing the frontiers, and being so fresh that others will follow in their tyre tracks. In my eyes, thanks to the Trust’s vision, this grandfather of trails has shared its wisdom through the wrinkles of time to a new generation of Great Rides. Half of the NZ Great Rides that have followed since, have some portion utilising former railway corridors. I suspect that were it not for construction of the original railway that opened over a hundred years ago, and this trail that followed after its closure, the NZ Great Rides as we know them may not have come to life. Life without the Great Rides wouldn’t have been so great, and riding greatness would have been measured by the muddiness of shared 4WD tracks we’d be riding instead – so thanks Otago Central Rail Trail. You’re the Granddaddy of Greatness! Wedderburn Cottages offers accommodation & hospitality at its best, CENTRAL OTAGO • Fully supported tours ranging from the comfortable 1928 farm homestead – “Lodge” – to NEW ZEALAND • Weekend escapes 14 attractive self-contained Cottages. We are situated right on the • Customised tours 88 Centennial Ave, Alexandra • Bike hire Central Otago Rail Trail with direct access from the Trail itself. Tel: 03 448 8917, Mob: 021 456 918 Premium Bike Tours On The Otago Cycle Trails E: [email protected] For Further information and online booking: FREE online booking service | Comfortable new eBikes available wedderburncottages.co.nz www.altitudebikes.co.nz 32 Charlemont St, Ranfurly ph. Lorraine 03 444 9194 / 027 268 9194 0800 OFF RAIL | 0273633724 [email protected] | www.offtherails.co.nz Special Edition 2019 63

Queenstown Cycle Trail QUEENSTOWN TRAIL A Great Ride – Wakatipu Way-Pointing Story + Photos Gary Patterson or as credited A fter riding around the globe finding the best trails the tempo. It’s exciting. I find my pace picking up. to map, I returned home to the shores of Lake I turn the corner onto Kelvin Heights Peninsula and I Wakatipu only to discover that the Adventure Capital (Queenstown) was about to open its am rewarded by more grand views over the lake with the own cycle network. While familiar with the area, I was mountains framed by a 2.5-tonne schist rock sculpture called eager to explore parts of the Wakatipu basin that were Thru Link To Peak by landscape artist Shane Wooldridge. unreachable by road – uncharted paths in my mind leading It was commissioned by the Queenstown Trails Trust in to new adventures. Intrigued by the freshly laid gravels that conjunction with the Lakes District Council. Nearby, a wound around the contours of the basin, I was dead keen. herd of corrugated iron goats (Kelvin Peninsula Goats by Jeff Thomson) ‘graze’ above me, and a bit further on a The initial challenge for riders is where to start. There giant Corten rusted-steel statue dwells quietly in the pine is a mix of loops and branches on offer that take in many forest – it is Presence, one of two Mark Hill works here. of varied sights, so deciding where to power up my GPS This part of the trail is becoming known unofficially as the units was my first decision. Should I sample the three river ‘Sculpture Trail’ and it is a delight. While I could park up systems and two lakes beside the trail, or indulge in the here with the goat herd to appreciate the vista, I urge my Arrowtown heritage and then the tasty treats tucked away in own steel steed onward. the Gibbston Valley? I decided to both sample and indulge! Before I know it I am pedalling beside the sheltered I have ridden the existing lakeside trail from downtown Frankton Arm passing exclusive homes, and I arrive at Queenstown to Frankton many a time, so I elect to leave Chargeabout Queenstown – an electric-bike rental and sales instead from the Jacks Point Clubhouse on the southern outfit owned by Campbell Read. Cam started this business outskirts of town. Here in this swanky and rapidly five years ago while working in the area. He was blown away mushrooming housing estate I enter my first waypoint, and by the smashing trail network and outstanding landscape steer my bike lake-ward. What I experience is a brilliant rolling beauty, but he thought that the trails were a bit hilly for traverse that skirts the elevated banks of the shimmering some and wanted to break down the barrier to allow folk Lake Wakatipu – as the Adventure Capital draws closer, the to have a more enjoyable and comfortable experience of presence of paragliders, jet boats and aeroplanes increases the trails, so he started Chargeabout. 64 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

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Queenstown Cycle Trail Cam mentioned that during his start up “the e-bike revolution was underway with questions from customers about what an e-bike is and when could they rent one.” He added, “Business is booming, with our recharge points now dotted along the trail network so our riders don’t suffer battery anxiety. We are delighted when folk, after a day’s riding, comment that this was their favourite local experience, rating it higher than a chopper ride or throwing themselves off a bridge.” I had never hopped on one of those newfangled e-bikes so Cam passes me one. It’s all gloss and gleam. I give it a shot. It takes next to no time for me to get used to the extra power from the pedal-assist mechanism, which gives the ride an intuitive feel to aid my effort. I like it. It feels a bit naughty – a little sneaky-trickster feeling. When my legs are older I will have my own, but for now I farewell Cam and hop on my battery-less beast to power off under my own steam. After crossing the old Falls Dam bridge next to its flash replacement at the lake outlet, which is the Kawarau River, I find myself in Frankton – Queenstown’s burgeoning overflow of commercial growth that encircles the international airport. The Falls Dam bridge opened in 1926, built primarily as a dam to allow those seeking gold to stop the river flow and scoop up fortunes in gold from the reef below the dam. They stopped the river. Crowds looked on from the banks. Investors surged into the 2 wet river bed to pick up the gold. But there was almost no gold to be found. Still it was great to have a bridge over the river … even though the road south to Kingston (where I live) wouldn’t be complete for a 1. A winter wonderland of trail adventures (credit: Queenstown Trail) decade. Such is the call of gold. 2. Chargeabout’s fancy Moustache e-bikes to hire or purchase I escape urbanism on the purpose-built trail to head downstream on the Twin Rivers Trail section, following the Kawarau River’s willow- (credit: Chargeabout Queenstown) lined banks. A bend in the trail at the confluence with the Shotover River leads to the historic restored bridge towering over its waters. 3. Jacks Point – a remarkable start to my journey 4. Hanging out beside the Kawarau River in the Gibbston Valley (credit: Jim Pollard Goes Click) 3 66 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

This is a magnificent structure to ride, once used by horse and cart, and then motorcars and now only by the rubber tread of shoes and cycles. The wooden deck sounds good under my tyres. It also means riders completely avoid the highway bridge. I take photos; it is hard not to at this beautiful spot, with views to Coronet peak to the north and the Remarkables to the south. Keen to continue mapping, I point my silver steed downstream to meet up with the Kawarau at the confluence again, to follow its banks on an undulating trail to the Lake Hayes Estate subdivision. It’s a seemingly remote part of the network except for the occasional low-flying jet that squeezes down between hillsides, passing low overhead and providing drama to my ride. I choose to turn off the main route that follows the river towards the Kawarau Gorge before it splits again to take one 4 either to Arrowtown or to the Gibbston valley. The choices to Arrow River I begin to climb Christine’s Hill, the steepest hill on the be made here are easy … it’s all good and there’s no wrong choice! So network. Now I wish I had one of Cam’s magic helpers. Yes I do! On I opt to pass through slowly maturing Lake Hayes Estate, following reaching Millbrook Resort the ride becomes a pathway which gently an urban cycleway, to connect with the Lake Hayes track around the follows the manicured curves of this pristine golfing estate – the trail ‘mirror lake’ as Lake Hayes proper is sometimes referred to. The track shoots right through its richness into Arrowtown. As I pass Provisions is a gem of a circuit around this picture-postcard scenery which surely of Arrowtown café and their famous sticky buns, I reflect on my last stamps its mark with some of the best reflections in the country. If visited local trip where I parked at the bike rack and devoured their delights. in autumn, the leaves’ seasonal colours combined with Arrowtown’s Today is a work trip so my legs keep working. splendorous backdrop make it a memorable ride to soak up the last of the warmth before heading into winter. Riding out of town, the trail follows the banks of the Arrow River After sweating my way up a steep river terrace, away from the shade of downstream, my tyres collecting leaf litter that makes a dry crunchy clatter. the willows lining the trail and back past the Shotover bridge, I stop. I tell The Arrow bridge section creates more memories, with its charming myself to check my GPS and replace my batteries to continue recording, delivery of trail that follows the gentle brook before it transforms into but really … I just like taking in these beautiful surrounds. Then I’m raging rapids through deeply incised ravines. This trail was part of a back in motion towards Arrowtown and beyond. Before reaching the vision of a national network of cycle trails, a vision that later became the Great Rides scattered up and down both islands. When I reach 5 the first of the new suspension bridges I reflect on the trail opening by Prime Minister John Key – the cutting of the ribbon in 2012 was the beginning of our country’s most popular Great Ride. It led to my job creating the Great Rides App. Wow! Not long after crossing a span over the most precarious of drops, I hear the screams from the Kawarau River bridge. This is the welcoming holler of bungee. 3…2…1…. BUNGEE! Was that the ‘ka-ching’ of a cash register I heard on the breeze? The trail sneaks across the same old bridge where the bungee business originally started, and I pass behind nervous patrons awaiting their jump. It was challenging when I biked across: what do I look at? – the exposure out into the void below the bridge, the quivering bravado of a harnessed naked fellow waiting his turn, or the weaving throng of people on the bridge deciding if they could do it … or not? I couldn’t bear to jump. Forget doing it bare! The bridge is a lovingly restored structure over the gorge that opens up into the Gibbston Valley – the final section of trail for my ride today. Another new business that has a big focus in the Gibbston Valley is Fork and Pedal Tours. Owner and guide Kate Scrimshaw kicked off her business last season, giving riders a taste of the trail as well as helping ORDER SUBSCRIBE TODAY • E-Bike Hire ONLINE TODAY ONLY $49.95 FOR 6 ISSUES • Self Guided Rides rnrpublishing.co.nz • Supported Tours SCAN THE QR CODE TO ORDER ONLINE SCAN THE QR CODE TO ORDER ONLINE 0508 7829253 rvmagazine.co.nz rvlifestyle Local experts specialising on the Queenstown Trail www.aroundthebasin.co.nz Special Edition 2019 67

Queenstown Cycle Trail 6 them to sample the fine wineries of the valley. Kate mentioned the other day to me that her self-guided tour has become the most popular trip 7 especially with honeymooners. She loves the way the trail gets riders off the highway and how it affords people of all ages, both local and 6. Wakatipu basin offers a lifetime of from abroad, the chance to walk, jog, or bike through this landscape and the vineyards within the valley. scenic views (credit: Queenstown Trail) Near day’s end, with my last pedal strokes, I start thinking about the 7. The trailside sculptures add flair to vision of Queenstown Trails Trust to realise and build this network. New CEO of the Trust, Mark Williams, started his role about a year the riding experience ago. He has a passion for riding, especially the local trails which now align with his working endeavours. When I talked to Mark recently about our local Great Ride, he recognised the amazing foundation his peers had laid out getting the trail off the ground (or should that be onto the ground?) and how well the trails are maturing. Plans are in place to increase the connections between local communities, and develop other riding choices to make this trail even more outstanding. Cool! My reflections fade as the trail terminates near the Nevis Bluff – a formidable natural barrier where the Kawarau River cuts through the gorge to Cromwell, where I enter my last waypoint. A separate and exciting project, that is underway, hopes to link the Queenstown Trails right through to Cromwell at the other end of the Kawarau Gorge, and on to Clyde. My mind bubbles away plotting a grand adventure ahead. The thought of biking from my Kingston home on an epic fortnight-long trip that links 4–5 Great Rides to reach Dunedin 500 kilometres away, is almost unreal … but it’s becoming real. I enter my last Wakatipu waypoint in Gibbston, with thoughts of future waypoints to collect when trails become joined. The Great Rides will become unbelievably greater! This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 69. Statistics 120km, grade Easy/Advance (Grades 2-4) Official Links: queenstowntrail.co.nz/ Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores 68 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

New Zealand’s 1. Twin Coast Cycle Trail greatest rides start the moment 1 Bay of Islands you check in. 2. Te Ara Ahi – Thermal By Bike Rotorua 32 6 3. Waikato River Trails 5 Taupo 4. Great Lake Trail 4 Taupo 98 7 5. Timber Trail 10 Taupo 11. St James Cycle Trail 11 6. Motu Trails Hanmer Springs Opotiki / Gisborne 12. The Queenstown Trail 7. Remutaka Cycle Trail Wellington Queenstown 12 14 8. Queen Charlotte Track 13. Around The 15 Blenheim Mountains Cycle Trail 13 16 9. Tasman’s Great Taste Trail Queenstown Nelson 10. Coppermine Trail 14. Central Otago Nelson Rail Trail HHM828 11/19 Great Rides deserve a great stay. Otago When you check in to a Heritage property, we’ll put you on the right track with local cycle trail knowledge, specialist concierge services and cyclist-friendly facilities. 15. Roxburgh Gorge Trail Book today 0800 003 193 heritagehotels.co.nz/NZToday Otago 16. Clutha Gold Trail Otago 13 properties across 16 cycle trails including: PAIHIA • ROTORUA • TAUPO • GISBORNE • WELLINGTON • NELSON • BLENHEIM • HANMER SPRINGS • CROMWELL • DUNEDIN • QUEENSTOWN

Southland Otago Cycle Trail Coming Around 1 the Mountains The Around the Mountains cycle trail is a 180km, 3–5-day-trail that takes in some of New Zealand’s most beautiful and stunning scenery in Otago and Northern Southland. It includes 56km of former railway line, 64km of new trail and 53km of wilderness. Gary leaves Queenstown and heads ‘Around the Mountains’ on his bike, an adventure like no other. Story + Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 2 70 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Can there be a better start to a trail than farewelling the ‘Adventure Capital of the World’ and plying across a pristine lake on a 100-year-old steamship, with a backdrop of the most remarkable mountains? Well if there is, I want to find it! Leaving Queenstown (or should that be ‘Queenopolis’ given the recent population explosion?), you leave the bustle of business for simpler shores. The trip on the TSS Earnslaw is like the briefest of ocean journeys spiriting you away to a whole new land; and once you leave the steamship’s dark coal-smoke clouds behind, a fresh new journey begins. 3 I have guided many cycle groups on this trail My gloved frozen digits soon became clumsy appendages, hopeless for and have noticed how riders hop off the boat, full of anticipation of entering waypoints of passing trail features on the GPS. The features we what lies ‘around the mountains’, fizzing in their excitement, much like I saw and recorded were something else. A tussock terrace hemmed in imagine how the first pioneers who arrived on these shores might have by craggy mountains was a delightful highlight; it’s no wonder the Tour felt. I love the way that in less than an hour cyclists go from comfort to Aotearoa cyclists who ride the length of the country rank this valley so corrugations as they ride towards the Von Valley. I can still picture some highly. After crossing some chilling fords we reach the historic Bullock of their smiles as they pedal lakeside with the hanging glaciers over Creek Hut. It’s a privately owned musterers’ hut open to the public for their shoulder, while steady headwinds try to blow them backwards. day use only. It was built right back in the early pastoral days. I am Their joy persists on the trail between two farm stations, before heading fascinated at the use of beech tree branch framing inside the hut, the inland, when stern faces contemplate the Von Hill appearing ahead . rough sawn cladding, and the views down the Von through its rustic Any cycle-tour leader knows that word-choice is critical for describing six-pane window. Shepherds once wintered here to keep sheep below an ascent. It is something that they don’t teach you but you soon learn. the snowline of the Eyre Mountains. Brrr! It would have been a scenic, What is merely an undulation for some is a hill for others, and the same remote and frigid existence for those pioneers. hill can be a mountain for yet others. The wrong term from me could mean no relief from the riders tormenting me about my description We continue pedalling, extremities still numb from the cold, while for the rest of the tour. Sometimes it is best to just point to the feature my GPS units collect data plotting our tyre tracks as we ride to more rather than describe it. So I just point. Arriving at the climb sees a few lakes ahead. of us walk, some ride, while some do a bit of both; either way it is an achievement to rise 300 metres onto the barren plateau at the top and If there was a jewel along this majestic trail it would have to be the leave Otago behind. Now we’re in northern Southland. This plateau Mavora Lakes. Just a few metres off the main trail and surrounded by a can be a harsh environment despite being a public road. In the Von canopy of virgin rainforest, is another world much like that of Middle Valley there is no thick scrub or building to offer shelter, no cellular Earth – in fact there are several filming locations within a Hobbit’s hop service, and being up at 700 metres in the south it can be bone chilling of these two lakes. When you reach the first marked viewpoint on this at any time of the year. side trail, a lake view opens up to South Mavora; the suspension bridge The Von brings back fond memories of my spring data collection for over the lake outlet seems unreal. The lake edges have no buildings, and the Great Rides App I have built. The Von was the place I trialled my to cross the lake is to enter a wilderness. Continuing further along the equipment before venturing nationwide. The three GPS units attached to road to North Mavora brings us to the grassy terraces of a Department my bike became my trusty cycle log. The first tracking point I gathered of Conservation basic campsite offering some of the most idyllic tenting in the Von quickly snowballed to five million at the end of my Great options in the front country. We pitched our tent after our ride and took Year. That’s a lot of data! With the devices recording and my wife a forest walk – careful not to disturb hiding Hobbit’s – before hitting the and I dressed for a snowstorm, we rode through this beautiful valley. sack. As morning broke, we headed outside where the sandflies were truly mean suckers. We were out of there lickety-split! 4 1. It’s no wonder Tour Aotearoa riders found the Von a real highlight 2. The graceful curves of this trail are a nice break from the straight railway lines 71 3. Mavora Lakes is a majestic gem and well worth a small detour (Credit – Around the Mountains Images) 4. The only traffic we found on the Von Special Edition 2019

Southland Otago Cycle Trail 5 Back on the main trail the gravel road continues south before arcing eastward through farmland. Under normal weather conditions this 5. On some sections the trail has rail is a welcome turn as the prevailing westerly wind will now push us 6. The second half of the trail along. Soon we reach the Centre Hill cattle-yards where we hop onto passes through scenic farmlands the purpose-built cycle trail. Here civilisation starts to reappear. The 7. Northern Southland offers the ‘Around the Mountains’ trail was one of seven quick-start projects of most scenic of spots (Credit – the overall NZ Cycle Trail project. This trail was proposed in two parts; Around the Mountains Images) however, the first stage, following the Oreti River of the Von, got tied up in Environment Court cases and sadly was later abandoned. As a result, the original second stage became the first and the purpose-built cycle trail starts near the cattle-yard. With a howling westerly at our backs we made good speed on this wide and flat trail – it was one of those days when a sail would have been useful. For a distance the trail playfully mimics the snaking bends of a freshwater spring-fed creek. It is lovely riding. We are not alone in benefiting from the breeze. Massive blades of wind farm turbines flash as they come into view, heralding our arrival at the back streets of Mossburn – the deer capital of New Zealand. Following the demise of a deer processing factory, the town is now supported by farming and the increasing tourist traffic flocking to Fiordland. At about the halfway point on the Around the Mountains trail, Mossburn is the first township of several along the way. Some people will stop and choose from a couple of places to eat and will stay here. Not us. We continue east. Next, we negotiate the Mossburn Slaloms, a series of power poles that weirdly and annoyingly ended up right in the middle of the trail, before we reach the junction to Lumsden. Lumsden was formerly known as ‘The Elbow’ as it is where the river turned 90 degrees, and was also known as ‘The Hub’ as it was at a railway crossroads. Today the rails 72 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

have become trails, and tourists have replaced trains at the former 6 Lumsden railway station – a hectic gathering place each night where freedom campers come in to roost. The free overnight parking here is odd, but in a small town one does what works. Garston seems to be on proving extremely popular with the punters, and while dividing the the up! As I sip a hot chocolate in the sun and look up to the skyline, I opinion of locals, there is no denying that it keeps the largest town on feel warmed in body and mind by memories formed in the hills above the trail full of life. We cycle north, passing The Elbow, coming around us. The prominent rock feature I’m looking at on top of the Slate Range the Eyre Mountains, to head for the bottom of Lake Wakatipu. is Welcome Rock, a place where I spent several seasons, both designing and building (by hand) a cycle trail, with landowner and good mate Onwards we travel through blink-and-you’ve-missed-it Five Rivers Tom. I can still remember those cold winter days, clearing snow to and then over the Jollies hills before dropping into the Mataura cut trail on these former gold miners’ water races. My thoughts return catchment. The trail hops over a couple of creeks with the help of to the present as the Kiwi flag above us starts to flutter then flap; the some suspension bridges before reaching the small township of Athol. afternoon anabatic wind will be our friend helping us home to Kingston. One of the highlights of Athol is a brand-spanking-new custom-built art gallery beside the trail. If you are after some local art for a lasting memory of your ride, then park your bike and peruse. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, have a look at the depth of talent on show in here. Wow! After appreciating the works we point our bikes in the direction of the ‘Golden Gates’, two towering and beautiful cycle trail suspension bridges over the Mataura River. These bridges are a sure-fire photo stop, a visual celebration of structural engineering. The trail continues to follow the former railway line down a long straight into the settlement of Garston. Garston’s claim to fame: New Zealand’s most inland village. Recently it has had an upsurge of commercial activity providing a new place to eat and stay as well as two stores – one selling locally crafted art, jewellery and homewares, the other an eclectic mix of imported furniture and New Zealand honey … 7 Special Edition 2019 73

Southland Otago Cycle Trail 8 We ride north, crossing the Mataura River twice and flowing trail through former glacier moraines and passing the former railway station of Fairlight. Perhaps terminating at the quaint lakeside village of Kingston. 8. Kingston wharf is the end you’ve seen it featured on a TV One promotional The wharf that extends out into the clear waters of the line (Credit – Around the advert showing a ball rolling along its dilapidated marks the finish of the trail that traverses around the Mountains Images) platform. Just before Lake Wakatipu comes into mountains of southern Wakatipu. It is quite fitting 9. The Golden Gate view we pass Trotters homestead, the remains of that the end of the trail at the end of the Kingston suspension bridge is a real stone walls the only remnant of the first European railway branch is the site of the well-known and loved photo stopper (Credit – settlers’ home in the area. After saving a waypoint Kingston Flyer steam train. In 1911 the Flyer brought Around the Mountains Images) marking this historic ruin we head downhill, a fast the TSS Earnslaw (where our adventure began) up to QUEENSTOWN–SOUTHLAND NEW ZEALAND’S NEW THREE TO FOUR DAY CYCLE TRAIL • Day Rides FOR INFORMATION ON PLANNING A RIDE, • Multi day, three and four-day rides PRINTING A TRAIL MAP OR BOOKING A TOUR: • Guided Supported tours • Accommodation planning CONTACT: • Shuttle bus transport • Bag transfers www.aroundthemountains.co.nz • Bike hire • E-bike hire EMAIL: 74 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle [email protected] PH INTERNATIONAL: 00 64 27 241 0858 PH NEW ZEALAND: 027 241 0858

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Southland Otago Cycle Trail 10 PUT IT ON YOUR ‘BIKE IT‘ LIST! Gear Up for a Southern Bike Ride for more info on www.aroundthemountains.co.nz Great Southland Rides: aroundthemountains southlandnz.com/greatrides aroundthemountainscycletrail 76 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

here from Dunedin in sections, to be reassembled, launched and used contrasts; fleeing from civilisation to the wild; riding on-road before as a ferry before a road ever reached Queenstown. Heritage encircles going off-road; and from barren open expanses to forest-filled valleys. our cycle journey. I liked how we departed the lake before circling right back to its shores. Yes, this trail is about leaving the bustle and being taken on a journey By riding the Around the Mountains trail we have come around the around the mountains, circling Taka Ra Haka – to a place where the Eyre Mountains – a series of rugged ranges separating the Von Valley sun frolics along the mountain tops. from Kingston and Lake Wakatipu. The range was named after a New Zealand Lieutenant-Governor of both the lower North Island (New This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 72. Ulster/Northern Island) and the South Island (New Munster/Middle Island) in the early settlement days. I prefer the Māori name for the 10. Fairlight station heralds the last stop before Kingston ranges of ‘Taka Ra Haka’ which refers to the sun dancing along the mountain tops in the evenings. At our home in Kingston, we measure Trail update the advance of summer by the extent the sun skips over the ridgeline above our house – some days, the troughs between peaks bathe us This trail now has several shelters and toilets within Von Valley, in 10 minutes more sunbeams than the day prior. At journey’s end I comforting for cyclists on the first day’s ride due to the elevated, reflected on the trail and the experiences it delivered. It’s a journey of exposed and quite remote aspects of the trail. Statistics 186km Easy/Intermediate (Grade 2-3) Official Links: aroundthemountains.co.nz/ Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores 1212 Nokomai Road, Mid Dome, 3.R D Lumsden 9793 www.notarailtrail.co.nz Ph: 03 248 8850 or 027 2429480 Email: [email protected] info@notarailtrail www.nokomai.co.nz NZ: 0800 429 253 Aust: 1800 445 709 ROW: +64 3428 2912 Special Edition 2019 77

Fiordland Lake 2 Lake Southern Lake Linking Thanks to the Fiordland Trails Trust, it is now possible to ride around and explore the twin lakes of Te Anau and Manapouri Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited 78 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Fiordland, a paradise packed with dramatic landscapes, and blessed with plentiful huts and hiking tracks including three Great Walks; yet surprisingly barren of cycle trails. Wheels of change are in motion though. As a result of the incredible efforts of the Fiordland Trails Trust, the tread of my tyres can now easily explore the fringes of the Fiordland forest between the beautiful twin lakes of Te Anau and Manapouri. Driving into Te Anau on the most perfect of mornings we park up and begin to consider our ride. While the Lake 2 Lake is a linear journey, there are a few ways to enjoy this trail; should we break it into sections, get a pick-up from a local shuttle provider at trail’s end, or do a loop and ride back using local roads? We decide to ride from Te Anau towards Manapouri before returning the way we had come. Sometimes I ponder how much easier it would be to already have these trails on the Great Rides App to aid in planning my trips – on the flip side it would mean I would not get to ride such incredible trails up and down the country to add them to the App I’ve been working on for the past few years. After these needless circular arguments, I attach my GPS units to my bike, strap on a packed lunch and, together with my wife, reach the trailhead beside the Te Anau Department of Conservation Visitor Centre. Special Edition 2019 79

Fiordland Lake 2 Lake 1 I push play on the GPS units and we’re off to have fun in this stunning breeding programmes. This is a fabulous place to stop off on the ride southern playground. The sun was starting to burn holes in the low and see birds that are tricky to see in the wild. I was captivated by the cloud, revealing small patches of blue sky and the peaks of the Kepler takahē enclosure with fluffy chicks being fed by foster parents. If you Mountains that we were riding towards. Town behind us, adventure in reach the sanctuary around mid-morning you may be lucky enough front. This section of trail winds its way along the lake edge. The trail to watch the daily feeding by wildlife rangers. It’s great! I find it crazy is wide and is shared with many hikers carrying heavy packs for their that you can switch your attention from the enclosure towards the multi-day trip on the Kepler Track. We felt light and free. The flowing lake and see in the distance the Murchison Mountains where the last trail, with its sweeping bends through the shrub forest, soon opens up few remaining takahē were re-discovered in the late 1940s, before to a clearing where we make our first stop – Te Anau Bird Sanctuary. conservation efforts brought them back from the brink of extinction. We leave the sanctuary behind, to make discoveries of our own along We hop off our bikes right by the wildlife enclosures which are home the trail as we ride towards the lake outlet. to rare and endemic birdlife. The aviaries contain kea, kākā, morepork, and parakeets, while other native birds on the outside are busily fluttering A few kilometres along the shoreline we reach Lake Te Anau outlet, around nectar feeders. The various species in this sanctuary are held with control gates acting as a bridge over the Waiau River to provide in captivity because they have been hurt and are either on the mend access to the Kepler Track. I stop to take photos of the water flowing or would no longer survive in the wild. Some are also part of captive through the gates and note the expressions on trampers faces; as the Mararoa Cottage OFFICIAL VISITOR WEBSITE Charming and comfortable little 0800 96 00 96 cottage with gorgeous views. 68 Town Centre, Te Anau 9600, New Zealand www.fiordland.org.nz One bedroom, double bed. e: [email protected] Rural Te Anau. p: +64 3 280 0116 | m: +64 277 229 503 Fiordland National Park Great Walks www0.m3 y2c4o9tt6a9g3e3.co.nz wildridesfiordland.co.nz Lake2Lake Cycle Trail 80 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

23 eager enter, the weary return on foot from Fiordland National Park. oxbow lake and climbing another river terrace, the trail descends to We do not cross this threshold as the park does not permit cyclists; Rainbow Reach which is a second access point to the Kepler Track. At instead we continue to follow the cycle trail on the Te Anau side of the the Reach it’s worth hopping off the saddle for a break and walking Waiau River. We are not unhappy about being outside the park as our across the suspension bridge over the Waiau River. Here the river is trail is wide, gentle and easy compared to that on the opposite bank. clear and wide, so clear in fact that with the sun on our backs I can see every submerged boulder for nearly a hundred metres downstream. Downstream we trace the clear waters of the Waiau through gloomy Beauty abounds. beech forest. The trail undulates a bit, just enough to work up a light sweat on the hills without tiring. At times we stop and appreciate the After our blissful gazing we leave the Reach and continue riding elevated views high above the snaking river. We discover as we ride that south. I relish the feeling of wilderness as the trail winds under a occasionally the river currents switch back on themselves, in some cases canopy of trees. Then suddenly at Balloon Loop our heads turn and creating nearly impossible bows beside the trail like that at Horseshoe our mouths open so wide that we could have been mistaken for the Bend, or the crazy twists at Balloon Loop, and forgotten river depressions rotating clown’s heads at amusement shows. We are in awe as the forest that now form oxbow lakes. This is fascinating river hydrology that the breaks just enough to let us catch a magnificent vista. Over time, the trail explores. When we re-enter forest we are shaded from the midday braided channels of pristine water have cut into the massive shingle sun and offered only glimpses of the river, while the open sections that cliffs downstream at Boulder Reach, and across the river is a band of skirt farmland offer expansive views of the mountains we are heading forest with a backdrop of craggy mountains framed by a blue sky. We towards. I love the intermingling of land cover that this trail shares. had found a perfect spot for lunch, to sit and eat crackers while taking in a cracker of a view. After passing Queens Reach, an open reserve for launching anglers’ boats, we climb back into the forest where the trail narrows a little and At present, Balloon Loop is the temporary trailhead, and to link cuts into the bank aggressively to negotiate the steep terrain. Here the to the next section it is necessary to ride along the highway for four trail seems to intimately hug the trunks of giant trees on either side kilometres to Supply Bay Road. Currently the Fiordland National Park before widening as it reaches the river terrace. After passing by a placid management plan does not permit bicycles – but it is under review. It is hoped that with management plan changes, the policy will allow cycling on designated formed tracks, which will in turn help the Trails Trust connect the gap between the Te Anau and Manapouri trails. The next section of trail takes us through scrubland, with occasional glimpses of Lake Manapouri and its various headlands and islands. Abruptly the trail exits the scrub as we arrive at the lakeside village of Manapouri. You know you have reached the trailhead when you see the hydroelectric turbine and the large rock that marks the height the lake would have reached, had the ‘Save the Manapouri’ campaign failed. There is an interesting plaque about the campaign which we stop and read. 1. Can the views of a morning ride start off any better? 2-3. Viewing the takahē enclosure is a real highlight on the trail 4 4. The Lake Te Anau control gates start the journey along the Waiau River Special Edition 2019 81

Fiordland Lake 2 Lake 5 The ‘Save the Manapouri’ campaign is a tale of geology, hydrology a Labour government resulted in the lake level being left alone. Had and environment-ology (I know … I made it up but you know the campaign failed, the Lake 2 Lake trail that I rode today would what it means!). In the mid-1950s a Kiwi geologist was sent to the not exist. However, an alternative trail on a grander shore may have tiny settlement of Weipa near the top tip of Australia (the first land been called something like the Super Lake Trail! sighting of Aussie by Dutch explorer Willem Janzoon in 1606 was here) to look for oil deposits. What he found was bauxite – the As we finished reading the plaque and enjoying Manapouri’s pristine alumina-containing ore that can be converted to aluminium. It was outlook I reflected on the ride. What I enjoyed the most about the the world’s largest find of the ore and remains the largest mine of the trail is the ease of access between the twin lake settlements and a mineral to this day. Following that discovery, New Zealand’s southern sense of wilderness despite an easy ride in the front country. The lakes were assessed as a potential cheap source of the hydroelectric Trails Trust has done incredible work to bring this ride to life. The power needed to process the ore. The Ministry of Works developed Trust also has ambitious plans for extending the trail west as well a grand plan to tap the water from Lake Manapouri and release it as north, and to one day reach Mavora Lakes and connect with the via a tunnel to Doubtful Sound, and to maximise the efficiency of Around the Mountains Great Ride. Wouldn’t that be a sweet ride? As the power station it was proposed to raise Lake Manapouri by 30 for me I make tracks; firstly by entering a waypoint, then saving my metres! Raising the lake’s level would have meant that our seventh GPS data before we head home … satisfied that the southern twin largest lake would have merged with the country’s second largest: lakes are not joined; only linked by the beautiful river that the Lake Lake Te Anau. The flooding would have consumed forest, farms and 2 Lake cycle trail follows along its meandering course. settlements and created a super lake far bigger than any other on our shores. The controversy that subsequently erupted was New Zealand’s This story featured in NZToday issue 83. largest environmental battle with protesters collecting the signatures of 10 per cent of the country’s population. The protest and a change to 5. Descending back to wilderness 6. The Oxbow Lake is picture perfect 7. River riding at its best! 6 7 82 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Statistics 24km (+4km incomplete) and generally Easy Grade (Grade 2) Official Links: trailstrust.co.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores Explore Doubtful Sound Overnight Cruise Spoil yourself on a relaxing Overnight Cruise Your Overnight Cruise includes: • Awesome scenery and amazing wildlife • Small ship – friendly and knowledgeable crew • Fishing for your dinner • Kayaking to explore up close Phone 0508 888 656 or +64 3 249 9005 Email [email protected] Web fiordlandexpeditions.co.nz/overnight-cruise fiordlandexpeditions.co.nz Special Edition 2019 83

Fiordland Routeburn Track NATIVE BIRDS AND A NEW ZEALAND GREAT WALK The Routeburn track in Mt Aspiring National Park is one of New Zealand’s nine Great Walks. A day trip from the eastern (Glenorchy) end to Routeburn Flats hut and return will not only give you a taste of an iconic New Zealand Great Walk but also give you the opportunity to see a variety of native bird life including a couple of rare species. Story + Photos Matt Winter 1 84 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Special Edition 2019 85

Fiordland Routeburn Track 2 3 track. Many of the better-known species such as tūī, bellbird, tomtit, kea, grey warbler and fantail 1. Emerald-green pools just above the If you’re keen on experiencing a New Zealand are pretty much a given when walking this section Great Walk but don’t have the time or perhaps of the Routeburn. Rarer species such as yellow- gorge section the fitness to complete the whole journey, the fronted parakeet (kākāriki), brown creeper (pīpipi), eastern Glenorchy end of the Routeburn track yellowhead (mohua) and rifleman (titipounamu) 2. View looking down the Routeburn provides the opportunity for a very pleasant and are also present in relatively good numbers. The relatively easy day walk. Depending on how fast you kākāriki sightings I had on the day were the most I valley with Routeburn Flats hut at right like to walk and how many times you stop to admire have experienced in one area in over eight years as the magnificent scenery, five to eight hours is ample an avid wildlife photographer. 3. The very friendly hut tomtit. The DOC time to reach the Routeburn Flats hut and return to THE TRACK the car park. Being a Great Walk, the track itself is sign is one of his favourite perches of very high quality, gravelled, and easily caters for The start of the Routeburn track is located ‘two abreast’ walking with gentle gradients. approximately 76km north-west of Queenstown 4. Stunning high country in the and takes around one-and-a-half hours by car. The For a slightly longer day, another option is to carry first 45 minutes of the trip is renowned as one of Routeburn north branch. Photograph on past the hut and climb up through the bush to the top eight scenic drives in the world and will taken from Routeburn Flats hut the Routeburn Falls which adds another two to three take you to the rustic and quaint little township of hours to the whole return trip. The views looking down Glenorchy. A few cafés and shops, a small general 5. Beautiful lush, waist-high ferns and onto the Routeburn from this location are stunning, store, a true country pub and a beautiful lake front not to mention the impressive 176-metre-high falls. are well worth stopping for. every shade of green you could imagine Aside from the superb scenery, the area is home 6. An adult male tomtit photographed to a wide variety of both native and introduced birds that can be seen without moving off the formed on the side of the track 7. One of several well-built and sturdy bridges making for easy river crossings 8. Female tomtit. Note dull and drab colour compared to the male 4 86 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

56 At the Routeburn-track car park at the end of Routeburn road, there After this point the valley tightens up somewhat and the track climbs is a large shelter and information boards. The panels include details and steadily through the steep bushy faces above a gorge section of river. photographs of many local bird species and are a great way of learning Glimpses of roaring white water cascading down around huge boulders or brushing up on your avian knowledge. and canyons can be seen on your left until eventually the track levels off and quite suddenly breaks out into a wide, open valley with grassy flats. At the very beginning of the track you are treated with a rather iconic back-country experience … a typical kiwi swing bridge across In early June when I did the walk, the section of trail up to the the Routeburn. Once across the bridge the track enters mature beech grassy river flats was in shade and quite cold. For that reason bird life forest and begins very gently climbing. Twenty minutes later there is an through here was not very abundant although I did see a few tomtits, option to turn left onto a short nature-walk loop track that will bring fantails and on two occasions heard yellow-fronted parakeets high in you back onto the main trail. The next main feature of the walk is a the bush canopy. bridge over Bridal Veil Stream with some almost dizzying looks down into some very impressive steep-sided canyons. The mood and ambience of the walk lifts immeasurably once you get out into the wider open part of the valley. The track meanders just During the lower section of the track you pass through areas of inside the bush edge around the river flats and the encounters with bird impressive waist-high fern. The tree trunks are covered in thick moss life increase dramatically with rifleman and tomtits suddenly becoming and lichen that are every shade of green you can imagine. regular sights along the track. 78 Special Edition 2019 87

Fiordland Routeburn Track 9 10 88 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Before long, an intersection five minutes concentration of yellow-fronted parakeet that Routeburn before the hut informs that a left turn here will I have ever seen. All other species already Flats Hut Track at a Glance take you up to Routeburn Falls hut and lodge. mentioned were encountered with the only The right-hand option leads you straight ‘failure’ being that of yellowhead. Routeburn track shelter and car park to Routeburn Flats hut and a welcome rest situated 76km north-west of Queenstown and lunch. There are toilets and running tap The hut and river flats area is a fantastic and 25km from Glenorchy. water at the hut. place to spend a few hours especially if you Grade: easy to moderate. happen to be doing the walk in the colder Time: 3 to 5 hours return. (Allow an extra When I arrived at the hut a very friendly months. The wide open area of the valley gets couple of hours for ‘relaxing’ at the hut.) tomtit greeted me immediately and was not bathed in sunshine and becomes very relaxing Distance: 7km one way. shy in coming forward. Obviously, living to the point where you can lose track of time around the hut and being used to people, the if not careful. I imagine a dip in the crystal Birdlife to see little guy showed no real fear and approached clear river water would be on the cards in yellow-crowned parakeet, yellowhead, kea, surprisingly close. During lunch and without the middle of summer. The return trip is a brown creeper, red poll, fantail, grey warbler, very much effort I saw a huge variety of birds. pleasant downhill stroll and is quicker than bellbird, tūī, finches, tomtit, rifleman. Aside from the friendly tomtit, I laid eyes the walk up. on rifleman, chaffinch, goldfinch, red poll Tips (which was quite a pleasant surprise), one This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 66. • Take a camera. small group of brown creepers, and two kea • Have a good read of information boards for also flew over. 9. Yellow-fronted parakeet details of bird species. • The bush edge upstream of Routeburn The bush edge running along the edge of taken on the bush edge only Flats hut is the hot spot for bird sightings. the river flats upstream of the hut was the a hundred metres upstream • For a longer day, carry on up to Routeburn real gold-mine of this walk in terms of bird of the hut Falls. This will add another 3 hours to the life. It is north facing (towards the sun) and whole trip. therefore very much warmer than other parts 10. Close up of a kākāriki • Stop at Glenorchy on the way back for a of the valley, which would account for the well-deserved coffee. proliferation of bird life there. The 600-metre showing the beautiful vibrant section of bush edge produced the largest greens of this species 11. Lovely reflections on a calm winter’s day 11 Special Edition 2019 89

West Coast The Old Ghost Road 90 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Busting the Old Ghost Road The Old Ghost Road isn’t a trail for all – this is no leisurely flat cycle path through vineyards. It’s a trail that allows one to wrestle with raw nature, with punishing climbs and heritage that drips off the rainforest branches. Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited The trail is a backcountry mountain biker’s dream (Hage Photo) Special Edition 2019 91

West Coast The Old Ghost Road 1 2 It was pretty obvious from the outset that I wouldn’t be riding the repellent! After double-checking the tracking of my GPS units, we this epic alone. One mention of this legendary trail and friends started the climb with our bikes fully laden for our overnight adventure. came flocking. Who wouldn’t want to ride what is arguably our The climb is impressive; it’s a bit of a gut-buster – a thousand metres country’s greatest backcountry trail? It’s not a matter of ‘who you primarily on old pack track to the sub-alpine tops. As we pass some gonna call’ but who wouldn’t you call. big slips, the mist starts to dissipate letting warm sunbeams penetrate the forest canopy. A group of kākā spiralled, plummeted and screeched So, after one postponement due to severe weather we teamed up out of the mists. With our heads down, muscles taut, pedalling and to tackle the trail for a couple of days. While not my first overnight sweating for the tops in the filtered light, this will be with me forever. riding adventure, it would be one of my longest climbs hauling gear to Every moment was a biking blessing. the tops. I wondered as I packed if there are riding Sherpas out there anywhere, or is this what mates are for? These were my thoughts as Reaching the cloud forest I was bust – a broken man. Each rotation of I squeezed my weighty overnight gear and mapping equipment into my chain was a challenge. As I climbed, my party slowly drifted away, drybags the night before the trip. evaporating like apparitions up the track as my sweat-stung eyes tried to see where they went. Then a magical moment as we reached the open Arrival at the trailhead at Lyell saw us hooded up for shelter as tops. Relief! Unveiled were the most stunning mountain vistas, which the drizzly clag drifted through. If the misty rainforest was not scary I considered my personal reward for the hours of climbing. Before us enough, visiting the bush cemetery behind the trailhead was freakily were forest-clad mountains cloaked in wispy swirling vapours that spooky – spooky, but cool. The sandflies here are anything but cool, pass 3 92 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

1. Some of the best back-country riding in the country 2. Tricky techie trail to negotiate 3. The phantom mists just wanted to envelop you 4. Passing between the twin lakes 4 weren’t quite cloud. Craggy peaks appeared above like castles in the vibe in all of us. Wrinkles be damned – we’re young and bullet proof sky. The trail ahead traversed their steep sides; it was as if a cobblestone again! It seemed only moments before we reached the Skyline Steps, a pathway drew me forward. This was my sort of wonderland! Gone was series of staircases to walk down before the speedy bliss continued to the agony, miraculously cured by a rider’s paradise. the valley floor. Back in the forest canopy we rode with joyful hearts. The skill required on the techie trail then stepped up a notch as it The next challenge encountered was the Boneyard boulder field, a trail became narrow, exposed and loose, and the consequences of a mistake designers’ mischief. The trail passes between two lakes (called ‘Grim’ were more evident now. We started to grin and fizz. As we headed and ‘Cheerful’) and toppled blocky rocks that could be headstones on downhill the fist-sized rubble popped under our fat tyres as we whizzed the graves of giants. Approaching the Boneyard, the chance of a rideable past The Tombstone, a slab of rock that Obelix the Gaul could have bike trail traversing it seemed impossible. The fact it was a climb through well carried. Before long we descended a sweeping corner to find Ghost ludicrous rock-strewn terrain, and that we did it in a light rain shower Lake Hut and the biv named ‘Tor’ that was to be our overnight home. yet still enjoyed it, is testament to the skill of the trail builders. These guys rock! The Boneyard is followed by a section called ‘Hanging Judge’ The view from the hut is outstanding. Sitting above the bush line – another fascinating section of trail sending the rider on a less direct and a sparkling tarn, it has a northerly aspect. From this airy perch we but more enjoyable exploration of the mountainous terrain. For some, watched the foreboding clouds whipping along the tops. Despite it being this challenging climb might be grim, but me, I’m cheerfully relishing summer the weather quickly deteriorated, and snow showers blanketed the trail designers’ creativeness and playful visions. Before long we reach our backcountry home with an inch of white powder. However, we were the Mōkihinui River where we regroup at Goat Creek Hut and have a snug in the hut, warmed by the fire and enriched by the company and bite to eat. This is one of many huts along the track, and is by far the chatter of folk from all different parts. smallest, oldest and cutest. What it lacks in conveniences, it makes up for in character. There’s a story behind the hut’s diminutive size too. Later that evening, we retreated to our cold biv to hunker down in It’s one of the first in the country to have been airdropped – seems it our sleeping bags, all layered up in our clothing. That’s not to deny the didn’t go quite as smoothly as planned. Something gave rise to some charm of the bivs associated with each of the main huts along the trail. damaged materials (I’m picking more the landing than the take-off); as They’re well thought out sleeping dens with sheltered entranceways a result the hut was narrowed by a couple of feet. It’s a cosy wee thing and shelves perfect for gear organising. There are many top notch and would be a welcome port in a storm I’m sure. hotels that would envy the views afforded us by our biv. Still... it was snowing out, and there wasn’t any heat except that produced by the We left the hut together and crossed a huge suspension bridge over the four of us. Brrrrrr! river before following it downstream past the resurgence. This crystal clear cold-water spring is one of the largest in the Southern Hemisphere, As morning light broke through the cloud we studied the map for the and I stop and appreciate the feature before taking a GPS point to add ride ahead. The contours below the hut squeezed tight like the wrinkles it to the Great Rides App. We continue on the trail downstream and of age. Turns out the map didn’t lie – a series of switchbacks down a pass a couple more huts before entering the Mōkihinui Gorge. The reasonably precipitous ridge had more than a few foot-dabs around newer huts on this trail are terrific – cosy and roomy at the same time. the hairpin of the zigzags. After the really tight corners the downhill began to flow more, and descending at speed produced a youthful Special Edition 2019 93

West Coast The Old Ghost Road 56 They’re all well set up and have great views to boot. Tasman Sea. It’s hard to believe this could have all been lost underwater The Gorge is something else. Crikey! How those early pioneers in recent times by a proposed 85-metre hydroelectric dam. The defunct project would have formed a 14-kilometre lake up this gorge drowning built a track and a road in the lower valley is beyond belief. At times the rapids, forest and historic trail. Near miss there, people. I continue the trail hugs the nearly vertical cliffs, somehow providing a foot – or to ride under my own power. wheel hold around the river bends. Not for the faint of heart this bit! Then there are side creeks that have water-carved vertical walls; here Just as we’re starting to tire, the walls of the gorge come to an abrupt there are more amazing suspension bridges without which we would end. After a flat finale, we reach the carpark and the arched trail gateway be swimming for our lives. The forested gorge with churning white sign – the perfect spot to take that memorable snap to rub it in when water rapids below and bluffs above us, is both exciting and scenic. I posted on social media for those that couldn’t make it. I way-pointed have a sense of being compressed before being spat out towards the the trailhead and took a few photos of the surrounds. Just out of the Statistics Statistics: 85km, Advanced (Grade 4) Official Links: oldghostroad.org.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores 94 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

7 5. The narrow near- carpark is the beautifully situated Rough and Tumble Bush Lodge. Up vertical cuts were spanned we go to have some drinks, hot pizza and to yarn about our adventure, by suspension bridges while we wait for our shuttle back to Lyell. 6. Tor Biv with a phantom The Old Ghost Road isn’t a trail for all – this is no leisurely flat cycle path through vineyards. It’s a trail that allows one to wrestle with raw vapour (credit Hage Photo) nature, with punishing climbs and heritage that drips off the rainforest branches. I marvel at the trail builders who spent months away from 7. Finishing the trail – an civilisation to build these cycling dreams. However, this is no field of dreams, this trail had riders trying to experience it before it was built. epic ending In fact, it has become so popular in the mountain-bike community, that I struggled to get a hut booking many months ahead. It goes to show that you can build a trail in the middle of nowhere, far from any population centre, and providing it’s well designed, built and scenic, riders will come. As we finished refuelling and revelling in our Old Ghost Road story I realised just how fortunate we were to ride this trail and have this epic escape. They say Australia is the lucky country, but with our national cycle trails, I think New Zealand is the luckiest of them all. So .... who you gonna call? This story featured in NZToday issue 81. Your oasis on the edge of wilderness and the perfect way to start or end your Old Ghost Road experience +64 3 782 1337 Café open 10am - 5pm daily October - April [email protected] Accommodation available year round www.roughandtumble.co.nz Special Edition 2019 95

West Coast Kawatiri River Trail KAWATIRI RIVER TRAIL – VARIETY ALL IN ONE If you’re after a bit of variety in your walks or bike rides, look no further than the Kawatiri River Trail along the banks of the Buller River, on the outskirts of Westport. The trail features native bush, tidal estuaries, a beach, an old railway, diverse bird life as well as a few ‘townie’ things like galleries and cafés Story + Photos Matt Winter 96 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

T he Kawatiri River Trail was the brainchild of the Buller THE TRAIL Cycling Club who mustered together up to 100 local The Kawatiri River Trail starts under the Buller River bridge as volunteers to transform river and seaside swamps and gorse-ridden land into 8km of stunning (and easy) you drive into Westport, on the east (or true right) side of the river. cycling and walking trails beside the lower Buller River. Taking On leaving the car park, the trail immediately enters a large tract of six years to complete, the last of the boardwalks and bridges were stunted native bush and continues through this for one kilometre installed in early 2017. towards town. The Buller River itself is only ever a stone’s throw from the track and in many spots there are short walking tracks The track starts off on the south side of Westport and after going through the bush down to the water’s edge. During the whitebait through a variety of terrain and surroundings (including part of season, which runs from September 1 to November 14, you will the town), ends up at the Buller River mouth and North Beach. So come across fishers at various spots all the way down the river to much variety in such a relatively short distance is very refreshing and the mouth, trying their luck at catching the tasty delicacies. You a joy to experience. Another factor which I found rather pleasing might even be able to ‘snag’ a small feed off someone if you play is that the whole trail is very easy to negotiate whether you’re on your cards right! Shanks’ pony or on two wheels. The trails and tracks have all been very well built with an overlay of fine gravel that makes for smooth The first transformation in your surroundings comes when riding and stumble-free walking. you suddenly break out of the lush, cool bush and are quite contrastingly confronted with old shipping and fishing wharves. 1 Special Edition 2019 97

West Coast Kawatiri River Trail There is an aged wooden platform here that gives great views (looking 2 directly downstream) of the old wooden piles and beams that no doubt used to support a thriving, hustling and bustling industry. There is some lagoon on your left. The latter choice has much better and unobstructed awesome character in the grain and texture of the old timber and really views of the lagoon, mud flats and reed beds for the opportunity of cool red colours in the rusty nails and bolts that would make fantastic seeing bird life. If you enjoy being beside the river, take the left track. subjects for photography. Being a keen wildlife photographer, I stopped at this lagoon for quite a Just around the corner is the Westport Railway Society building while and put my binoculars to good use. Apart from the usual common with several old coal carriages parked up on the grass that are also tidal species of birds such as seagulls, shags, swans, ducks, terns, herons, very photogenic. etc. there have also been reported sightings of the rare marsh crake. These tiny little birds of the rail family look very similar to a weka but are only From here, you need to head across the railway lines to Palmerston about half the size of a blackbird. Tiny, rare, shy, secretive and rather Street (the main shopping street of Westport) and carry on north. elusive, they are not often seen yet are still able to live in relatively close Westport is a classic ‘one-street’ town with the retail and business stores proximity to human settlement. Keep a lookout on the edge of the reeds all on the one road. If you happen to be walking the trail there is ample and rushes where the vegetation meets the water’s edge. opportunity for some gentle window shopping and for exploring the shops. Another ‘birdy’ point of interest to make here is that I saw weka several times along the course of the Further on, at the northern end of Palmerston Street, lie the current trail. One was seen foraging around shipping wharves. Cresting a raised stopbank overlooking the moored the railway yards literally one block fishing fleet, you can look across the harbour and see the first of several away from the main shopping street. boardwalks spanning the tidal and estuarine areas of the northern part After exploring the Lost Lagoon and of the trail. Once again it is worth stopping at this wharf, this time to travelling further north along the trail, admire the array of interesting and funky-looking fishing boats. you eventually break out onto Shingles Beach, a small sand beach on the Buller At this point you have just completed 2.5km. The next 4–5km of River. The beach is made up of fine trail was my favourite section. From here on there is the possibility white sand and is relatively sheltered of seeing a wide variety of bird life. Crossing the very first boardwalk from the notorious south-west wind by (Floating Basin boardwalk) I could see a couple of white-faced herons a small man-made breakwater. feeding along the edges of the mud flats (it was low-ish tide) as well A short distance from Shingles Beach as several shags perched on driftwood logs, soaring seagulls on the trail jumps up onto the northern the lookout for an easy meal and a few grey ducks in the channels. Buller River breakwater that stretches a The boardwalks are solidly built with high hand railings making them full kilometre right to the mouth of the safe for children and toddlers. Buller River itself. The entire length is tar sealed. From the end of this section Coming off the Floating Basin boardwalk the track enters into more you have great views looking south to native bush and scrublands. Fifty metres or so inside the bush the trail Cape Foulwind and north along vast, gives you an option of going left or right. The two tracks do meet up driftwood-strewn beaches. later on, as basically they both skirt a large tidal lagoon quaintly called At this point in your day you have a the ‘Lost Lagoon’. The left-hand track runs alongside the Buller River few options to complete the journey. with the lagoon on your right whereas the right-hand option has the You could do what I did and cycle from the breakwater to Beach Drive 4 98 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle


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