NZToday-RV Lifestyle Vol 19

Vol. Heartland Journeys Walk & Cycle Trails Road Trips Reviews 19 AR VOL. 19 $500 IN NOV-DEC NZTODAY RV Lifestyle | NOV-DEC 2022 Russell • Taumarunui • Christchurch Cathedral • Okains Bay • Clyde To Middlemarch • Southern Road 2 • Pahi Coastal Walk • Arthur’s Pass Doc • Maniototo Ewing Stevens • Top 5 Hut walks • Retro 5th Wheel Build • Bus Conversion Pt 5 • NZMCA Show • USA Coachmen Catalina • TrailLite Mullers’ Landmark • UK Coachman Lusso II 2022 Aotearoa i tenei ra Te oranga Coromandel Walking the Pahi Coastal Walk Destinations – Road trips Russell – Jewel in the Bay of Islands crown Taumarunui - Gardens, glow worms and trains Christchurch Cathedral – Rising from the rubble Okains Bay – Off the beaten track Clyde to Middlemarch Roadie Walk - Cycle and Lifestyle Canterbury DOC feature Walks, wildlife & activities around Arthur’s Pass Maniototo Ewing Stevens & the Waipiata Sanatorium Great Walks Top 5 Great Walk huts to enjoy sunset WI N WITH CASP OUCHER TERISLANDER V

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Taking the e-bike option to return to Colville (Pahi Coastal Walk). Story p12

Destinations and road trips CONTENTS VOLUME 19 Nov-Dec 2022 8 Northland – Exploring the history of Russell, the jewel in the Bay of Islands crown 20 King Country – Gardens, glow worms and trains are all part of the Taumarunui scene 35 Canterbury – Road trip to Okains Bay on Banks Peninsula 42 Central Otago – Road trip from Clyde to Middlemarch, following the rail trail 51 Maniototo – Allan Dick meets Ewing Stevens and recalls the history of the Waipiata Sanatorium on a road trip south 69 TrailLite Southern roadie – Marlborough, Kaikoura and heading south with baby Koa, Part 2 Walk - Cycle and Lifestyle RV PETSCs 12 Coromandel – Walking the newly opened Pahi Coastal Walk aspar’s Caper 26 Canterbury – Walks, wildlife and activities around Arthur’s Pass DOC feature 30 Canterbury – Rising from the rubble, Christchurch Cathedral rebuild update WIN $500 42 Great Walks – Top 5 Great Walk huts to enjoy sunset INTERISLANDER FERRY VOUCHER Reviews – RV Profiles SEE p112 73 Retro lane – Vintage ACC-styled fifth wheeler, Don Jessen feature 78 Rebuild – Converting a 2012 bus to a motorhome, Part 5 MEGA 82 International Updates – John Rawling at Düsseldorf, and UK Motorhome & Caravan BOOKS 85 Show profiles – NZMCA Motorhome Caravan Leisure show breaks all records TWOOBNE 90 Select Caravans – US-built Coachmen Catalina caravan with big slide-out living area FROM p64 94 TrailLite – Meet the Mullers, and the Landmark Series motorhome perfect for them 99 Gateway Caravans – UK Coachman Lusso II luxury caravan Regular – Competitions – Marketplace 59 AD Today – Reminiscing and admissions from NZToday founder Allan Dick 64 RV Books – Latest release books to be won 66 Road Kai – Road recipes and a new cookbook to be won 63 Events – Scheduled upcoming events 2022-2023 – tickets to be won 103 Marketplace and RV Trade Directories 108 Game Plan – Keep your brain active with these games 110 Subscribe – Subscribe and save for Christmas 111 Caspar Capers – RV Lifestyle dog travels, win a $500 Interislander voucher

4 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

EDITOR’S Letter to Readers ISSN 2703-2477 (Print) ISSN 2703-2485 (Online) Summer holidays ahead W ell readers the end of the year is nearly NZToday-RV Lifestye Vol 19 Nove-Dec 2022 here. It is only six weeks till Christmas takes us to Arthur’s Pass. In the North, Gary www.rvlifestyle.co.nz as I write this, and at the speed this last walks the Pahi Coastal Walk, Helen heads to month has passed it will be here in four. Russell while Sheryl checks out Taumarunui EDITOR Trying to organise pre- and post-Christmas plans taking in the history and adventures of the area, Robyn Mountain, [email protected] with the family, who’s going where and when and plenty more to inspire readers for future ADVERTISING MANAGER as we all head to different parts of the North trips. Bruce Mountain, [email protected] Island. We will be in Martinborough this year, 021 657 090 and we are looking forward to cycling around the Plenty of latest-release books to be won, lots SUB-EDITING & PROOFING village, heading out to Lake Ferry and Ngāwī for of kid’s books for the kids in your life as well as Thiers Halliwell, Allan Walton a few stunning sunset evenings, a spot of fishing, summer readers and great cook books to relax DESIGN Cameron Leggett sampling some parts of the Remutaka rail trail as and be inspired with. Caspar has an Interislander CONTRIBUTORS Sheryl & Neil Bainbridge, well as the Greytown and Masterton rides, and ferry pass to win – look out for his paw print in John Bishop, Kathy Catton, Allan Dick, Jane Dove maybe riding over the hill to Eastbourne. these pages – and the Events pages has tickets to Juneau, Richard Longley, Robyn Mountain, be won – yay! With the price of fuel as it is we Gary Patterson, DOC, John Rawling, Alex Stone, In the meantime, we are getting this issue to have downloaded a new app, Gaspy, and it has Helen Yuretich print before heading about the country for next saved us quite a bit of money, up to 50¢ a litre at COVER PHOTO BY: Pahi Coastal Walk issue’s reviews. There are some great new models times. It searches your current location, or if you OBC PHOTO BY: Bruce Mountain that I want to see before we head south for Toast put in where you are heading it will bring up the SUBSCRIPTIONS & ADMINISTRATION Martinborough on Sunday November 20 where cheapest fuel at the time. Customers confirm and Subscriptions Manager Laura Atkinson we are looking forward to a day of music, friends, update prices on the app if it is wrong, cheaper or [email protected] and fun, hopefully in the sun. It is good to see dearer; click the red marker and get directions as Phone enquiries: 06 306 6041 the Events page filling up again isn’t it, great to well, super handy. I recommend getting it sorted Office hours: Mon – Wednesday 10am to 3pm get back to big shows, festivals and fairs. I see before you head away this summer. SUBSCRIPTION RATES that this year the second Martinborough Fair is One year $49.95 (6 issues) being held the last Saturday in November, then I hope we can all afford to be on the roads Full online website access $25 1 year it will resume on the regular first Saturday in over summer, with a fridge-full of food and a NZTODAY-RV LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE February and March dates from 2023. This is the tank-full of fuel. If that is going to be a chal- IS PUBLISHED BY biggest fair in the country I believe – might be a lenge for you this year, walking and exploring RnR Publishing Limited reason to stay in Martinborough another week your local towns parks and hidden gems may PO Box 220 for shopping, before heading back up to drop off be the answer, as urban cycle and walking trails Martinborough, the motorhome with family, get the January-Feb- are everywhere. Visit your local tourism office, Wairarapa 5711 ruary issue off to the printers, then a real break you may be surprised what is just down the road. Main office Ph: 06 306 6030 will start for us Mail: PO Box 220, Martinborough Happy holiday planning readers, be safe and 28 Oxford Street, Martinborough, 5711 We have plenty of travel in this issue to inspire kind to each other, drive well and with consid- PUBLISHERS readers with road trips around the Canterbury eration. See you around the country perhaps. Bruce Mountain, [email protected] and Central Otago regions, Allan Dick meets up Robyn, Bruce and Caspar Mountain Robyn Mountain, [email protected] with Ewing Stevens and the Maniototo, DOC Editor – Publisher – Sidekick RV Lifestyle dog PRINTING Centurion Print Relaxing in the pasture over Port Jackson (Pahi Coastal Walk) WINNERSREADERS GIVEAWAY DISTRIBUTION ARE Direct Ltd merrell.co.nz L Irving Hamilton R Slee Te Anau M Wilson Tuakau L Atkinson Masterton NOTICE TO ADVERTISERS RnR Publishing Ltd uses due care and diligence in the preparation of this magazine, but is not responsible or liable for any mistakes, misprints, omissions or typographical errors. RnR Publishing Ltd prints advertisements provided to the publisher, but gives no warranty and makes no representation to the truth, accuracy or sufficiency of any description, photograph or statement. RnR Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for any loss that may be suffered by any person who relies either wholly or in part upon any description, photograph or statement contained herein. Advertisers are advised that all advertising must conform to the ASA Codes of New Zealand Advertising; full details and codes book available from asa.co.nz. RnR Publishing Ltd reserves the right to refuse any advertisement for any reason. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. All material gathered in creating NZTODAY RV Lifestyle magazine is copyright 2021 RnR Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved in all media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher. Please check our website www.RnRPublishing.co.nz for a full Terms and Conditions of advertising schedule. www.rvmagazine.co.nz 5

Discover Tohu Whenua - a network of our nation’s most treasured heritage places. Photo credit: Sara Orme TE TAI TOKERAU Kaitaia Russell Northland 8 Kerikeri . Ruapekapeka Pā . Pompallier Mission & Printery Omapere . Cape Brett/Rākaumangamanga . Rangihoua Heritage Park Whangārei . Kororipo Heritage Park . Waitangi Treaty Grounds . Te Waimate Mission . Māngungu Mission . Clendon House Pick up or download a free brochure today www.tohuwhenua.nz

Russell › Northland TRAVEL From Hellhole toTourist Delight If you’ve been labelled the “Hellhole of the Pacific” it must be a hard slog back to respectability but Russell has pulled it off. Admittedly it took 200 years and a name change (from Kororāreka), but nevertheless it is now one of the most delightful holiday destinations in the Bay of Islands. Story + Photos Helen Yuretich 1 both involve a ferry. (There is a third way day drinking coffee in the sun with interest- avoiding ferries but it’s a long drive.) ing places to visit, a good dash of history, I f you’ve been labelled the “Hellhole of some nice walks – here’s your ideal spot. the Pacific” it must be a hard slog back to Stop in Paihia and take the passenger ferry respectability but Russell has pulled it off. across the bay – a delightful 15-minute cruise I like wandering, but if you prefer expert Admittedly it took 200 years and a name which goes every half hour or so in summer, information take the tour bus. It departs change (from Kororāreka), but nevertheless every hour in winter. You’ll have plenty of from the wharf and the local guides will it is now one of the most delightful holiday opportunities to get those gorgeous offshore tell you plenty of colourful stories about destinations in the Bay of Islands. photos. When you land at the pier in Russell Russell’s European beginnings as a place of you can step into the tourist office for all the violence and ill repute. They’ll explain how Russell is a charming town, off the main information you want. This ferry is a great the lawlessness came about, how local Māori tourist drag, but very easily accessible. choice if your accommodation is in Paihia or reacted and how the whole mess erupted in if you’re on a day trip. the Battle of Kororāreka. You will marvel Māori were well settled here when Euro- at how peaceful it all is today. And Russell peans arrived and found a fertile, sheltered Alternatively, drive 10 minutes to Ōpua and is hilly so the tour bus will get you around harbour with the remains of many local pā take the vehicle ferry which shuttles back and without making you puff. sites attesting to long-term residency. Known forth all day. A few more minutes driving on then as Kororāreka it was a small coastal com- the other side and you’ll be in Russell com- Otherwise ask at the tourist office or look munity which was recognised by seafarers as plete with your own transport. for the map at the end of the wharf and do one an ideal place to rest and restock. Its repu- of the four heritage walks. My favourite will tation as a hellhole came from the whalers, Russell is charming, quaint, peaceful and take you on a flat walk round town past all convicts and other adventurers who estab- historic. It’s not known for its designer shops the places of interest including old buildings, lished it as a useful but lawless trading centre or wild night life – although there was danc- old trees, an old cannon and an old whaling in the 1830s. Attempts to enforce British law ing in the aisles at the Town Hall when we boat. I can recommend it if you’re happy to be culminated in the treaty signed by local chiefs went over for a Dave Dobbyn concert some independent, you don’t want hills, and you’re and British representatives just across the years back. If you want bright lights you’d best looking for coffee en route. water at Waitangi in 1840. go to a big centre, but if you’re after a pleasant Today there are two ways to reach Russell; www.rvmagazine.co.nz 7

23 It’s de rigueur to walk along the narrow square with its supermarket and other inter- used to defend the town against Hōne Heke waterfront. From the north end you’ll pass esting little shops. Here is the end of the pier in the Battle of Kororāreka 1845. a splendid cottage which served as custom where you’ll find a map and information about house, then police station and is, apparently, the heritage walks. Snap it on your phone and This battle was provoked after Heke now the local policeman’s residence (lucky you’ll have all you need for a fine walk. chopped down the British flagstaff on Maiki officer). It has a massive 200-year-old More- Hill for the fourth time. Local Ngāpuhi were ton Bay fig growing outside. The waterfront is lined with pōhutukawa disenchanted with increasing British control. trees planted 90 years ago by the Russell Prog- They were disappointed that colonisation Next door is the magnificent Duke of Marl- ress League, a society formed to beautify the had not brought them more prosperity and borough Hotel which claims to have been town. Enthusiastic locals replaced the pine dismayed that Māori sovereignty was being “refreshing rascals and reprobates since 1827” trees that previously stood there, with the undermined. When the capital of New when it was established as Johnny Johnston’s iconic New Zealand Christmas tree. It was a Zealand was moved from nearby Okiato to Grog Shop. Johnny soon changed the name farsighted venture and the trees will be there Auckland they felt the economic loss and to The Duke of Marlborough in an effort to for another hundred years. It would be worth believed they had been poorly treated by bring some elegance and respectability to his a visit in December just to see them flowering. the English whom they had befriended and establishment and he managed to obtain New protected. Zealand’s first liquor licence in 1840. A little further you will see an old cannon pointing out to sea. It acted as ballast when it Hōne Heke had originally presented the The building was burnt down during the was brought to New Zealand in 1840 and was flagstaff to Governor Hobson intending it Battle of Kororāreka in 1845 and again in for the United Tribes flag. With the British 1931. The existing building originally housed 4 ensign flying instead, and the reality of British telegraph workers down the coast at Cable rule which was quite different from what he Bay. It was shipped to Russell and manoeu- had expected, Heke resolved to chop down vred into place by steam traction engines the pole. It was a symbolic act to indicate his in 1932. Since then it has undergone many dissatisfaction with life under the English. renovations to produce the elegant building it is today. Chief Tāmati Wāka Nene tried to liaise between Heke and the British but his influ- The Duke sits right on the waterfront and ence did not prevail and led to a breakdown there’s a verandah along its full length. Step in the relationship between Māori factions. into the reception for a taste of old glamour Tāmati Wāka Nene went on to support the – a chandelier, gilt mirrors and a fine old British against Heke. wooden staircase. If you’re looking for top- rate accommodation book yourself into one It’s a steep climb, but if you walk up the of the waterfront rooms. They’ve recently been hill you will see the flagpole as it is today and renovated and they’re splendid, just the place the views are spectacular. Take my advice and to sit and watch the sunset. drive up. You’ll get exactly the same view and have more breath to enjoy it. Keep walking past The Duke along the waterfront and you’ll come to the main town By the time Heke cut down the flagpole for the fourth time the British had brought Duke of Marlborough Hotel Refreshing Rascals and Reprobates since 1827. Located on the waterfront of Russell in the Bay of Islands, this historical beauty has been lovingly restored, and along with an award winning restaurant, offers visitors a great place to relax, unwind and watch the world go by. 8 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

in reinforcements and were ready to defend 5 1. Russell has long been used as a safe themselves. There was much misunderstand- harbour ing between the two sides and the Battle of out of bricks rescued from the chimney of 2. The policeman’s house with Moreton Kororāreka flared up in March 1845. the great chief ’s original cottage. Call in at Bay fig tree the Museum for interactive displays, a full 3. The Duke of Marlborough has been in The British eventually evacuated the town history of the town and a chance to buy sou- business since 1827 and it was looted and ransacked by Heke’s venirs. Take a look at the tiny whale chase 4. Canon brought out as ballast and used men. Much of the town was razed but the boat housed in a nearby shed and marvel at against Hōne Heke in battle 1845 two churches were declared neutral and not to the courage of the men who put to sea in this 5. Christ Church, said to be the oldest in NZ be damaged. Nevertheless stray musket balls tiny craft in pursuit of the great creatures of reached Christ Church and the holes can still the sea. be seen today. Christ Church is one street back from the waterfront and reputed to be the oldest church in New Zealand. Services are still held here but it has also become a popular tourist attraction. The cemetery has some notable gravestones, in particular that of Chief Tāmati Wāka Nene, as well as original settlers, whal- ing crew and soldiers killed in the battle. Inside, the pews are covered in cushions which have been hand embroidered by locals. They depict native plants and birds and many other whimsical and historical illustrations. Handcrafters will enjoy looking at the fine handiwork. Keep going along the waterfront to the museum. Here is the Tāmati Wāka Nene Reserve where you can ponder Russell’s remarkable past while sitting on a seat made Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Visit the Treaty Grounds this summer and soak up Aotearoa’s history at Waitangi, with two interactive museums, Te Rau Aroha Museum of the Price of Citizenship and Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi, Treaty House, Te Whare Rūnanga and traditional Māori waka taua (war canoes). Admission includes a full program of tours and cultural performances. www.waitangi.org.nz www.rvmagazine.co.nz 9

78 6 9 10 Then walk on for the best part – Pompallier were printed and distributed free. process – selecting letters from the upper case Mission and Printery at the south end of the Take the tour to learn all about it. It’s enor- or lower case, arranging them upside down waterfront. It’s worth a visit to Russell for and back to front on a composing stick, set- this alone. The guides will tell you it is New mously interesting. The guides explain how the ting each line of print on a galley tray to make a Zealand’s oldest surviving industrial building building was erected using local materials – page, correctly orienting four pages on a sheet and New Zealand’s oldest rammed earth sand, rock and timber. The old tools and forms and fixing them tightly in a chase, making a building. I love it. they used to accomplish this are still in place. proof copy to check for mistakes then send- Layers in the walls show how they were slowly ing to the printer for printing. Everything was The land was bought by French bishop built up in situ with manpower and patience. meticulously and expertly done by hand with- Jean-Baptiste Pompallier in 1839 so that he out even the aid of good lighting. could establish a Catholic mission. He set up There is a splendid printing press which was a printery and tannery to produce leaflets and brought out from France with all the neces- Behind the house are the tanning pits. A prayer books in Māori. Thousands of texts sary accoutrements and workers. Your guide tannery was linked to the printery to provide will explain and demonstrate every part of the Ultra lightweight tents www.intentsoutdoors.co.nz 10 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

11 a ready supply of leather for covering books. available for purchase in the gift shop. as a Tohu Whenua – one of Aotearoa New In Pompallier’s day the scene would have been Phrases we use today which have come Zealand’s best heritage experiences. hellish with the filth and stench of the abattoir, fat rendering, urine pits, tanning pits and half- from this industry include ‘upper and lower At the end of the tour take some time to cured hides. The process included soaking in a case letters’, ‘mind your ps and qs’, ‘cut to the wander in the garden. Much of it was planted barrel of urine from local chamber pots, scrap- chase’, ‘a dab hand’ and ‘skiving off ’. The tour in the 1880s resulting in some fine and gnarly ing skins to remove hair and fat (which was will give you a real insight into how such old fruit trees today. The woodland planting then used to polish the hides or make candles), industries have influenced the language. on the hill behind the house is full of birdlife, soaking in a tanning solution made from Tas- and if you make it to the top – a short, sharp manian Blackwood, then rubbing, trampling, The printing house became a private resi- climb – you’ll find a seat where you can sit and skiving and working to make the leather pli- dence in the 1850s. Owner and saddler, James catch your breath while you admire the view. able and ready to cover books. Callaghan, continued to work the tannery. Later residents renovated the house, covered Before you leave call in at the gift shop Today the tannery is only used for demon- the tannery and cleared Bishop Pompallier’s and café to pick up souvenirs and take a little stration purposes and is much more salubrious. original whare and outhouses. Gardens and refreshment. orchards were laid out and the hillside was The next part of the tour takes the visitor planted as woodland. The house was used The Bay of Islands is a great tourist attrac- upstairs to the binding room. Here the sheets for army barracks during World War II and tion and Russell may be the very best part. would be folded to make four pages and the property subsequently slipped into dis- assembled into sections. The sections would repair until it was handed over to the NZ 6. Pompallier Mission House with chapel foundations be hand sewn together, glued, attached to Historic Places Trust (now Heritage New in the foreground 7. Thousands of texts were hand end boards and finally bound in leather. The Zealand Pouhere Taonga) in 1967. At the printed on this press 8. All the tools of the printing folded pages would be cut open and the book end of the 1980s the tannery was rediscovered trade are on display 9. The old rammed earth forms was then ready for distribution. and the property was closed for a complete and tools can still be seen in situ 10. Partially bound restoration. books with bay leaves to deter insects Local ladies have a small bindery on site 11. Old pōhutukawa trees lining the waterfront where they produce handmade notebooks Today it is an excellent place to spend using these same skills. The notebooks are an hour or two, and has been recognised TAKE TIME OUT AND VISIT Open for: • Breakfast • Lunch • Delicious Cakes • Paintings • Glass Works • Carvings • Jewellery • Sculptures • Ceramics• Gift Vouchers Gift Vouchers Open 7 days available for from 10am the Café & Gallery galleryhelenabay 1392 Old Russell Rd, Hikurangi | Ph: 09 433 9616 or Café 09 433 9934 | www.galleryhelenabay.co.nz 11www.rvmagazine.co.nz

WALK & CYCLE TRAILS Pahi coastal walk › Port Jackson, Coromandel A Great Walk Coromandel’s Land’s End Gary maps the Pahi Coastal Walk – a newly opened private track that explores the top of the Coromandel Peninsula Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 1 12 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

2 half-day trip, followed by a full-day walk, and then a third half-day with a range of options. R eaching the top of Coromandel Peninsula has been near the top of my must-do Mapping begins by warming up the tech- list for a long time. You see, being nology before I activate my legs. I switch on brought up in the Waikato, our family my GPS units and they slowly reorientate often camped on the peninsula’s coastline, themselves from being in the deep south to yet we never ventured beyond Colville. The my current position. I also strap on several reason was simple: our family sought serviced cameras. Next, I set off from the front deck campgrounds, but such camps didn’t exist over the pretty grassed lawn, passing under beyond Colville. That digit of land that points the gnarly and twisted pōhutukawa branches further north was always left unexplored … to reach the arc of Port Jackson beach where until now. I will finally make a journey to this coastal walk begins. What a beach to land’s end at Port Jackson to map the new begin on! The stage is set for a great after- Pahi Coastal Walk for the Great Hikes App. noon’s walk. In the foreground, the gentle waves of the sandy bay rhythmically rise and So on a winter’s day, I reach Colville and fall in near silence. Just behind and circling park up at ‘Hike and Bike Coromandel’. When the bay are pōhutukawa crowns which would the new track opens in a few weeks’ time, vis- act as nature’s parasols on a summer’s day. itors will be shuttled 25km to the start of this private walk. I get a lift from Colville to Port 1. Twilight over Pahi Coastal Walk (Pahi Jackson (which is only 65km across the water, Coastal Walk) 2. Looking over Port Jackson but 200km by road, from half the country’s (Pahi Coastal Walk) 3. Looking down on population). Here I meet farm owners Cath Fletcher Bay and associated campsite and Zander who now add the title ‘Track Manager’ to their resume. They offer a three- day fully catered private walk comprising a 3 13www.rvmagazine.co.nz

5 46 The backdrop has green fields with scat- and in the hazy distance is the craggy knob paddock to paddock I wonder how long it tered black and white dots of distant cattle of Whangārei Heads. Leaving the cutting I will be before the presence of walking groups and sheep on the hill country. I head for the begin heading southward just above the rocky becomes the norm, the humans passing by hills and start the walk by crossing a stile coastline, moving in and out of small water being no more interesting to the bovines than and heading along the farm track following catchments. the wandering sheep. orange markers that lead me up and out of the bay through a cutting in Kaiiti Point. Along this stretch I watch the watchers; Soon the track crosses the road and heads around each corner, cattle are transfixed up into the trees. It seems like the next act has The gap offers a new window to the west. by my stride. There is no grazing. Neither begun where I leave behind the rocky coast- Gone is the beach behind me and ahead is the chewing nor mooing interrupts their gaze. It line and enter a forest scene. The narrow bush Hauraki Gulf. I stop here and watch a yacht doesn’t matter how distant they are, all skyline track weaves between the trunks of native gently drift by and I scan the surroundings silhouettes are watching my every move. They trees with the orange markers placed more for familiar geographic features. From left to stay clear of my way and give me plenty of regularly to guide me through this cool and right I can see the flat cone of Rangitoto, the space, which I am grateful for as I climb over dim environment. There are some giant trees long stretching profile of the Hibiscus Coast fences on newly built stiles. As I pass from here which make for a varied and interesting 7 14 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

climb that leads up to a telecommunications 8 4. Getting up high over the ocean tower on the ridgeline. Now well above the (Pahi Coastal Walk) 5. Following the ocean, I take a snack, GPS the tower and take a patch of forest the track reaches a saddle markers along the scenic coastal walk in the oceanic views in almost every direction. with a stunning outlook. Here my eyes follow 6. Passing by the historic shepherd’s down the green pastures until land terminates hut (Pahi Coastal Walk) 7. Taking a From here the farm track enters another and the expanse of the Colville Channel sits rest from mapping before dropping pocket of forest and reaches the largest pūriri between me and Great Barrier Island. If it’s a down to the east coast 8. Around tree I have ever seen. As I stand next to its clear day like today you can even see the white every corner is a new coastal view giant feet, its girth dwarfs my small frame buildings at the back of the island’s Tryphena and I can’t resist hugging it. Surprisingly my Harbour. Beautiful. arms don’t even span a quarter of its trunk. Large vines twist their way around its body and plunge deep into the ground. It’s as if the vines are acting like ropes attached to a ship’s anchor holding this mammoth in place. Leaving nature’s wonder behind, the track leads to a junction. For the weary, a shortcut can be taken, but I opt for the upper track which climbs to the highest point. The view is well worth the journey. I take another GPS point at the summit and a few photos for memories, before descending to the walk’s first night’s retreat beside a bubbling brook with watering holes. The second day is a full-day walk. From the retreat, the track crosses the stream and follows a farm track leading eastward and upward. It’s good to complete this climb in the morning when the temperature is still cool and the views are clear. After passing through SPECIALISING IN RV MAINTENANCE AND REPAIRS Our services • All Insurance work • Full mechanical services and WOFs • Self-Containment Certification • Onsite assessments • Electrical WOF • Valuations of vehicles and pre-sale inspections • Gas Certification • Detailing • Plumbing • Water damage • Electrical Fault Finding • Resealing • Repairs of Existing Equipment • And so much more! • Servicing of Fridges & Diesel Heaters • Charging System Requirements Assessment • Free Estimates 0800 783 492 | www.rvservicecentre.com | 36G Macdonald Street, Mount Maunganui 15www.rvmagazine.co.nz

9 Having reached the highest point on day tackle this track on pedals, even if electrified, have been like for those who worked in this two I sidle around the upper catchment would be quite a feat – my feet would cer- remote location – it appears it would have before crossing a stile to join the Stony Bay tainly be walking a bike. The path picks up been a rough life. mountain bike track. Boy, the track is steep in the Coromandel Walkway beside the forest Just a few minutes further along the track, any direction for cycling. I have ridden some and reaches the historic shepherd’s hut. I pop it reaches a volcanic intrusion named Sug- pretty challenging trails over the years, but to inside and see what the conditions would arloaf. Nearby a shaft of rock rises vertically out of the ocean. I stand still to take a photo 10 and observe this feature. It is question- able whether the hill looks like a sugarloaf, PROOF COPYweseplel-ckianlolywwnheexnamyopulecoinmRpaior!e, BiARtrPEatPQoRzUOiIRtlV.hEADLeU!nmloessst Proyofou were bTworon in the A1p9prtohvedcbey ntury, most of usProduct havAe DnVeEv0e1r-0s1een reDAfpaiptneroevedd sugar moulded Code Senitnto a co2n8ic.0a5l .1su9garloaSfi;gneavtueren sugar cubes are LABELS SIGNS DISPLAYS a rare find these days. For me, the shape of this hill is more like a rye bread loaf rising out of the sea, similar to that of Square Top Island just offshore. Needless to say, if I had the naming rights of geographic features, our country would have more-accurately coined placenames. After slicing through the base of the rye loaf the track leads down to picturesque Maloney’s Beach. The black volcanic sands of the beach are cooked up from the eroded remains of the volcanic basalt activity that formed the 20.00 mm 70.00 mm AMG ADVENTURE MARKETING GROUP WWW.AMG.CO.NZ | PH: 021 4777 38 SMART BIKE A1 COMUTER MB1 500W Adventure Marketing Group Limited 5 Maleme St, Greerton Tauranga | ph. 021 477 738 | www.amg.co.nz 16 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

11 12 nearby loaf and island behind me. The black look around for a dry spot to sit and set up my 9. Reaching remote sands are a huge contrast to the white quartz- lunch. It is hard to leave this place, but I map Maloney’s Beach is a based beaches of Port Jackson just around my way north and drop into Fletchers Bay. As delight 10. Rising up above the corner. The meandering stream leads me I wind down the hill I can see the terminus Maloney’s Beach before down to this cute beach, hemmed in by rocky of the public road from Colville reaching the reaching Fletcher Bay headlands that are covered in coastal trees. Department of Conservation campsite nestled 11. Hugging the giant pūriri If there was ever a place to have a rest, then behind the bay. The fishermen I saw earlier are tree 12. One of the pretty this would be my pick as it is secluded, has no tenting there too. No fish filleting or fry-up is bays on the road back to road access and is a surfcaster’s paradise. As I going on but I can see that both are loving this Colville 13. Following the watch two fishermen returning from a catch, I paradise, each with a cold brew in hand. lambs down to the headland 13 17www.rvmagazine.co.nz

Stats 32km, 3 days Great Hikes App: App Store or Play Store The track follows the road up out of the completes the journey. If booked in advance, is no hill. At the ridgeline saddle, I turn my bay and veers back onto a farm track to reach the third option involves the return to head for my last view of Port Jackson then the Muriwai Walk, which follows along the Colville along a stunning coastline by e-bike descend to the western coastline, sniggering edge of cliffs towards Cape Colville and a while the shuttle van returns to collect bags as I go at the joys of electrification. modified hillside, the fortified terrace being and any stragglers. This is sure to be a few I have the road to myself as it meanders the remains of the Wharekaiatua Pā. This is hours of biking bliss and I put my hand up. around the rocky coves, and I stop off at as far north as I go on the tip of the Cor- Oddly given all the cycling I do, I have never many points, bays and scenic features. It’s omandel Peninsula, and it’s only a short travelled far on the new breed of e-bikes. I am charming here. One of my stops is to marvel walk along Port Jackson’s beach to reach ready for the challenge and my legs are keen at a concrete waterfront bach with inlaid the shearers’ quarters for the walk’s second on being aided. pāua shells. The riding between the tree- night’s stay. If the overnight conditions are All powered up and ready to go, I start by lined bays is simple, scenic and secluded. The good and you are an early bird or a night riding the flats in the bike’s ‘Eco’ mode, but only part of the ride where I slow down is to owl then it’s worth being around for dawn as soon as the hill climb begins out of the cross the shallow fords which are carrying or twilight; there are great vantage points bay I can feel my legs burning from the pre- increased water from the recent winter rains. near the quarters for watching the changing vious days of walking. I don’t hesitate to flick Time and kilometres fly by on the bike and I light. If you are neither a night owl nor an into ‘Tour’ mode and I gently rise towards soon begin to turn inland. It’s not long before early bird then count sheep like a shearer the only real climb on the ride. Somewhat I reach Colville and return to my car. I put and sleep deep in their quarters. surprisingly this is not enough for me, so my bags in the back and motor back to the The final day offers some choice choices: knowing there is plenty of juice in the bat- Hauraki Plains. But wow! What a trip! One the most relaxing is spending the morning tery bank, I skip the next setting and go like no other. I have now visited the land’s chilling out; the semi-active option means straight into ‘Turbo’ mode. Now that’s what end beyond Colville by circumnavigating its a short elevated walk inland; anEd nthveirfoinnaml enItaamllytaslkuinstgaaibnoaubt!lIep, opwreivr uaptef,asftuerlltyhacnaatneyred 3sh-doraeys w(maolkstilny)gbtyofuoroto, vberfoarelathregeofcfiociaasl tal (and in my opinion the best) optiofnaprmerfeicntlyNewTZoueradlaenFdra’snbcerehailtlh-ctlaimkbinrgidCero, arsomif tahnerdeel. opening of the Pahi Coastal Walk. Kia ora and welcome to Pahi Coastal Walk BOOK NOW Environmentally sustainable, private, fully catered 3-day walking tour over a large coastal farm in New Zealand’s breathtaking Coromandel. www.pahicoastalwalk.co.nz 2611 Port Jackson Road, Coromandel, New Zealand 18 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022 Call Cath Ward on 021816228, [email protected]

Rugged Ensuite Construction 4 Burner Cooktop J-Tech Suspension SCAN TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE JAYCO ALL-TERRAIN FIND YOUR NEXT ESCAPE AT YOUR LOCAL JAYCO DEALER TODAY www.jayco.co.nz orphone 0800 252 926

TRAVEL Taumarunui › Ruapehu District TAUMARUNUI - TRAIN TOWN 1 Gardens, glow worms and the renowned railway are all part of the scene 2 Story Sheryl Bainbridge Photos Neill and Sheryl Bainbridge 20 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

3 4 and other photographs. There are lots of options for weddings and other events at the New Zealand’s cycle trail network was many underplanted with burgundy flax, and garden, which has fully licensed function facil- undoubtedly the best initiative to come the purest white ornamental plum trees add a ities near the parking area that are particularly out of the 2009 Economic Development fairy-tale element to the property. useful if it’s raining. The garden’s natural amphi- summit, spawning what now provides theatre, again developed by Simon, is another arguably the most interesting and diverse Developed in two parts over 28 years, the favoured venue that Melana says “looks and recreational opportunities in the country, together five-acre Bradley’s Garden has now achieved the smells amazing” when the lavender is in with some huge economic benefits. Even those status of a garden of national significance, and flower. Musical events have been held in the who don’t cycle have joined the surge of people Melana credits the contributions of husband amphitheatre which Melana says has wonderful enjoying their own country since the Covid Simon and other family members towards this acoustics. It’s also another stunning backdrop pandemic changed all our lives, using cycle trails achievement. Simon has done a lot of the heavy for wedding photos. and other established pathways as a basis for work, including building fences, carting rocks planning walks and hikes. In the Ruapehu district and soil, and constructing a bridge over the The red door at the end of an alcove of coni- this means that summer is rapidly becoming as pond out of an old farm bridge. A quirky wild fers (Thuja trees) was created by Melana’s son. busy as the traditional winter season as cyclists pig sourced in Hawke’s Bay emerges from the “It symbolises choices,” explains Melana. “The and hikers discover the region, some in RVs, grasses beside the pond, a nearby bird house colour red represents ‘stop, don’t go there, others choosing to use accommodation providers. was built by the daughter of Melana’s partner, there’s nothing behind it except darkness and and the rustic cottage that includes a loo was dead end, while if you choose to turn around BRADLEY’S GARDEN constructed by Melana’s stepfather. Each ‘room’ the path is bright, it’s open and the sky is the of the garden has its surprises, such as seating, limit to potential.’” Hostas are just beginning to push their way a giant chess set, old farm implements and through the soil, roses, lavender, and the pure several wooden ‘pole people’ that came from 1. Here comes the train 2. Natural amphitheatre. white Annabel hydrangea bushes have all Geraldine. In summer the lavender smells amazing 3. Time to been pruned back, and the rhododendrons wine-down after a long day (photo Bradley’s Garden) have just started to flower. “Everything’s just At the top of a set of wide steps edged with 4. Flowering Awanui cherry trees make a beautiful ready to come out – the garden’s really at its round river stones is a conifer-lined grassed show 5. An old farm bridge recreated by Simon at best from November onward, although there is space that is entered through a pergola. “It’s a Bradley’s Garden 6. Pole people made in Geraldine something different to see all year,” says Melana beautiful place for weddings,” Melana points are sited around the garden Bradley. As we stroll around Bradley Gardens, out, adding that when the grapes that are the soft pink flowers on the Awanui cherries, trained over the pergola develop their leafy growth, it’s another background for wedding 56 21www.rvmagazine.co.nz

9 7 8 10 A gazebo holds pride of place within for use. People just need to phone ahead. Rena Road is about 25 minutes from Tau- another garden ‘room’ area, and here Melana After travelling the Forgotten Highway, it’s a marunui and the steep, deep sides of the prepares high teas or Devonshire teas for peaceful place to rest up for the night.” 500m cutting, where trees arch overhead are guests. “We’ve had little girls’ tea parties, anni- lit up at night by a myriad of glow worms. It’s versary celebrations and visits from clubs,” Melana says when she’s not busy with her an enchanting sight. says Melana as we tuck into our delicious B&B (which is in a more private part of the Devonshire tea, accompanied by the family grounds), or catering for events, a good deal SPIRALLING DOWN THE cat and the sound of birdsong. of time is spent in the garden. “It’s a little like MAIN TRUNK LINE a sponge in terms of time, energy and cost,” Melana designed the driveway based on a she concludes. A family friend tells a story of his youth, when landscape architect’s ideas. A row of conifers at some stage in the late 1950s, railway work- separates a nine-hole mini-putting course NIGHT LIGHTS ers were on strike, so no trains were running from a large lawn. “There’s plenty of parking. out of Wellington. An enterprising teacher We can provide non-powered sites for up to At Te Rena Road, just past the small settle- at the small Ōwhango school 20km south of 50 RVs, and the toilet facilities are available ment of Kakahi, there’s an old cutting, built Taumarunui, saw an opportunity for a field for a railway line that never eventuated. Te UNREAL LANDSCAPES REAL MOMENTS 22 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

11 12 trip to a nearby engineering masterpiece – the spiral itself. the past 12 months building the business. Raurimu Spiral. Designed in 1898, the spiral “It smells like childhood,” was one com- Once it becomes established, he intends to includes two tunnels, a circle and two hairpin use some of the profits to support the Mental bends, and takes advantage of natural land ment as the 1956 steam train pulled into the Health Foundation, which in the past has contours to overcome the problem of navigat- National Park railway station. Organised by proved to be of great value to his family. Fur- ing through an area that is far too steep for a Spiral Tours as an adjunct to a longer tour ther tours are scheduled for February 19 and direct rail route on the main trunk line. Pupils arranged by Glenbrook Vintage Railway and March 19, 2023, so anyone keen should check in tow, he set off for the spiral, and the class Steam Inc., a Paekākāriki heritage society, the Spiral Tours website nearer that time. had a wonderful time walking through the three busloads of passengers travelled by bus tunnels and learning about this marvellous from Taumarunui to the Tongariro National It’s not the first time Peter has featured feat of engineering. Things quickly turned Park and waited while the train steamed up in this magazine. He explained that about to custard on their return to school though, from Ohakune. Once on board we clattered eight years ago he made wooden toys which when the teacher was severely reprimanded down the spiral’s convoluted twists and turns, he sold at markets. One day at Waihi he was for potentially putting the children in danger engineered more than a century ago to cope approached by one Allan Dick, who not only should the strike have been lifted and the with the 139m height difference between one interviewed Peter about his prowess as a trains started running again. He was in deeper end of the spiral and the other, and ended up sports competitor but bought a toy as well! trouble when soot-covered children returned back at Taumarunui railway station. Members home to parents who then had to clean both of the public, having heard that the steam Glenbrook Vintage Railway tours include clothes and bodies – but it’s a memory that train was coming, claimed all sorts of posi- the three-day ‘Discover Ruapehu’ pack- our friend, as one of those pupils has held tions near the railway track to wave and snap ages, dates for which are on the website. dear all his life. At the Raurimu settlement photographs. These tours travel on heritage trains, but there’s an easy walk to a lookout where there the actual steam train event occurs less fre- is a model of the spiral, but today, we’re taking Spiral Tours organiser Peter Davison tells quently. However ‘Discover Ruapehu’ does our own nostalgic steam train trip down the me that on moving to Taumarunui a few years take passengers over the massive Makatoke ago, he saw an opportunity to highlight the and Hapuawhenua Viaducts which would Raurimu Spiral as an attraction and has spent add another interesting element to the trip. 7. The gazebo is a favoured venue for high teas and Devonshire teas, Inset: Luscious scones and pretty china for a Devonshire tea 8. Melana stands beside the red door created by her son 9. A touch of the wild at Bradley’s Garden 10. The rustic cottage was built by Melana’s stepfather 11. Old farm implements add interest 12. Steps lead up to a conifer-lined area that is regularly used as a wedding venue 13. Passengers waiting to get on board the train Visit Bradley’s garden... peace & tranquillity in the heart of the Ruapehu Region Plan your overnight stay at a stunning POP on a 5 acre Garden if National significance... just 3km from Taumarunui and only 1km off the Forgotten World Highway... Ph 0274 452074 13 bradleysgarden.co.nz

14 And if you’re waitin’ at the station in Tau- through native bush alongside a stream in adventures with rail carts, jet boats and even marunui, look up at the train clock. Installed parts and has a good variety of native flora helicopters! Lauren’s Lavender Farm is open by Taumarunui Lions Club about 22 years including greenhood orchids. from Labour Weekend, and Nevalea Alpacas ago, it’s a seriously cool piece of functional had closed for the weekend while the owners street art. BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE! were away at an event where a black alpaca apparently became an instant television per- OHINETONGA WALK, OWHANGO Several other attractions around Taumarunui sonality. And the Forgotten Highway with its are there for experiencing. Forgotten World twists, turns, scenery and history is an adven- Roughly 20 minutes’ drive from Taumarunui, Adventures has also helped put Taumarunui ture on its own. the small settlement of Ōwhango sits smack, back on the map with their unique tours along 14. Stream on the Ohinetonga walk bang on the 39 degrees south latitude line. an abandoned railway line in converted golf- There, the Ohinetonga walk is a loop track carts. Check out their half, full or multi-day ‘Ma rvel lous’JANUARY2022 ONE OF THE BEST KIWI TOURISM ADVENTURES WE’VE EVE R HAD! Just one of the comments from a guest who rated their experience with us as ‘outstanding’ – and from the hundreds of online reviews to date, 97% of our guests wholeheartedly agree. Many are attracted by the novel idea of travelling by rail cart through one of the most breathtakingly remote locations in New Zealand. But it’s the enriching sense of escapism, quality time with friends and family and learning about our region’s rich history that our guests love the most. And it’s also their humbling comments of gratitude about us that inspires our whanau to give everyone a never to be forgotten experience. To discover more visit www.fwa.co.nz or call us on 0800 7245 2278. Go ahead, be our guest! 24 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

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TRAVEL Arthur’s Pass Immerse yourself in central SouthIsland Explore the abundant wildlife and natural wonders of Arthur’s Pass. Story Cecilia Huang (Department of Conservation / Te Papa Atawhai) 1 2 26 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

1. Ōtira Valley Arthur’s Pass – Credit: Shellie Evans 2. Carroll Hut – Credit: Ruth McKie CC-BY-2.0 3. Memorial to Arthur Dudley Dobson, Arthur’s Pass – Credit: Shellie Evans 4. Devils Punchbowl Track – Credit:Brian Dobbie 3 providing a unique insight into the past. 4 Stagecoaches ran a regular service across L ocated northwest of Christchurch, Arthur’s alpine plants, including the alpine flower Pass National Park is easily accessible from the Southern Alps from 1886 to 1923, on Mt Cook buttercup Ranunculus lyallii; d) both Canterbury and the West Coast. It is New Zealand’s first and most dramatic alpine 30-minute return trip on Old Coach Road hidden in the heart of the Southern Alps/Kā road. The Arthur’s Pass coaches were New Walk, which takes you through a forest walk, Tiritiri o Te Moana, and was the first national Zealand’s last horse-drawn coach service. starting and finishing near Greyneys Shelter; park in the South Island. In 1923 the Ōtira rail tunnel was completed e) 60-minute return trip on Devil’s Punch- and opened, marking the end of the line for bowl Walking Track, where you can see the It’s known for tranquil landscapes, rare the coaching era. One interesting fact is that spectacular 131m waterfall from a viewing flora and fauna, as well as many recreational when the tunnels from Ōtira and Arthur’s platform. At this site, please take particular opportunities, including short walks, day Pass met in 1918, they were out by just care when climbing up the steps. walks, overnight tramps, mountain climbing, 30mm! mountain biking, bird watching, historical The 2.5–3-hours return Arthur’s Pass sites, fishing, hunting, and skiing in winter … One hundred years later, the Ōtira Viaduct, Walking track links a series of tracks offer- the options seem endless! Depending on the the latest east–west development, was built to ing the chance to walk from Arthur’s Pass season, there’s always something for every- replace the old coach road. Started in Janu- village to the Dobson Memorial at Arthur’s one. Not to mention the park is also a Toyota ary 1998, it was completed and opened two Pass summit. The track also presents the best Kiwi Guardians’ site where children are able years later in November 1999. The workers of Arthur’s Pass with diverse alpine vegeta- to engage with nature and then claim reward again suffered through wind, rain and snow tion such as mountain-beech forest and Dr medals online after exploring the area. to get the job done. This impressive engineer- Seuss-like Dracophyllum plants, along with ing feat soars above the steep gorge and tight waterfalls, wetlands and stunning views of HISTORY zig-zag of the old road. the mountains. Arthur’s Pass is the backdrop to many sto- WALKING TRACKS At the end of Dobson Nature Walk, you’ll ries, one of which was the construction of a be able to see an obelisk memorial on the coach road linking east and west following There are several short walking tracks around other side of the highway that commemo- the discovery of gold on the West Coast in Arthur’s Pass village featuring waterfalls, rates Arthur Dudley Dobson, the surveyor 1864. The road was completed in less than forest, and alpine views – a great option who gave the modern name to Arthur’s Pass. a year and opened for coach traffic in 1866 for children. Options include: a) 10-minute – a truly remarkable feat of road building. return on Millennium Walk, where the Ava- Toyota Kiwi Guardians is an activity Passing through rugged terrain and subject lanche Creek waterfall can be seen from a programme for kids to learn about nature to unpredictable weather, it was never an viewing platform; b) 10–50-minute round and earn cool rewards. Get a Kiwi Guardians’ easy crossing nor an easy construction proj- walk on Bealey Valley Track, where you see adventure map online at www.doc.govt. ect. The construction crews worked in harsh stunning views of Mt Rolleston/Kaimatau, nz or pick one up from a Department of environments and challenging physical con- and have a chance to cross Bealey Chasm, Conservation Visitor Centre. There are over ditions; they would often spend a whole day a narrow channel where the river cascades 100 places in New Zealand where you can clearing snow only to find they had to do it over huge boulders; c) 30-minute round earn medals. all over again the next morning. Today’s Old trip on Dobson Nature Walk, which takes Coach Road Walk follows a section of it, and you through a rich variety of subalpine and 27www.rvmagazine.co.nz some old rock-walling can still be seen there,

56 He surveyed the pass in 1864 which then led ATTRACTIONS who hold rangatiratanga over the site. to the road been built, linking Christchurch The site recently received significant and the West Coast gold fields during the gold There are many places to visit off the Great rush. Please note the obelisk is only accessible Alpine Highway (SH73). Kura Tawhiti/Castle upgrades, including three impressive new pou from a pull-over on the east side of the high- Hill Conservation Area has large limestone whenua (carved posts that mark important way on the top of the pass, however there is formations, up to 30m high, and is well worth sites) and interpretation panels telling Ngāi no official track or signage for the site. a visit. The area was once under a large, shal- Tūāhuriri stories from the area. A new shel- low inland sea that began to fill about 30 ter, loop track and native plantings were also It’s also worth noting that there are more million years ago. Pressure over time caused added, and there’s helpful signage which advanced and challenging track options for extensive uplift, folding and faulting of the encourages visitors to tread lightly while well-equipped and experienced trampers Torlesse and Craigieburn ranges. The lime- enjoying this culturally important site. This and mountain climbers. Check with the local stone rock has been eroded by water into special place has a code of conduct to reflect DOC Visitor Centre for track and weather these distinctive sculptured landforms. Kura the Tōpuni status (special protection), cul- updates. Tawhiti means ‘the treasure from a distant tural significance and ecological importance land.’ The area is significant to Ngāi Tūāhuriri, of these rocky outcrops. DisGcroeuantts! Frjoeien!To Its time to discover New Zealand! Save money on accommodation, fun activities, restaurants and cafes, Bluebridge ferry crossings and more! Sign up today for FREE! WWW.STAYKIWI.COM 28 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

Please keep your distance from wildlife. Human food is harmful to kea and feeding them interferes with their normal foraging activities. It also encourages them to hang around human areas for longer periods of time as they increasingly identify people with food. 7 Lake Pearson/Moana Rua, an hour- including huts and campsites in Arthur’s Pass WEATHER glass-shaped high-country lake, is a great and close by; online bookings are required. option for a visit. The lake lies in a glacially We’ve suggested a few campsites below that Weather in the area can change rapidly with eroded valley, 607m above sea level. It’s are close to the road and easily accessible by little warning. Arthur’s Pass village receives extremely popular for fishing, kayaking, bird vehicle. For more information on accommo- most of its four metres of rain per year watching and camping. dation options check out www.doc.govt.nz during northwest rainfalls. Visitors should be well prepared for wet, cold and snow con- FLORA AND FAUNA Klondyke Corner Campsite is a large, open, ditions, even in summer. Check out the latest campsite, near the junction of the Bealey weather at www.weather.niwa.co.nz/parks Mountain beech/tawhairauriki, red beech/ and Waimakariri Rivers and is very popu- and it’s always a good idea to talk to the DOC tawhairaunui, silver beech/tawhai are com- lar in the summer. It’s also a key site for the Arthur’s Pass Visitor Centre for current infor- monly seen in the Arthur’s Pass area. Look annual Coast-to-Coast event that’s held on mation about track and weather conditions. out for the beautiful red-flowering southern the second Friday and Saturday in February. rātā in the Ōtira Gorge in late summer. The campsite has 40 non-powered/tent sites, Be aware that avalanches are a risk in toilets, a shelter for cooking, and is wheelchair Arthur’s Pass National Park. They usually Arthur’s Pass has abundant birdlife that is accessible. Please remember to bring sandfly occur in Arthur’s Pass National Park from commonly seen and heard, including fantails/ repellent and always boil water before use. May to November. Visit the DOC website or pīwakawaka, tomtits/miromiro, bellbird/ talk to the local Visitor Centre to learn more korimako, grey warbler/riroriro, South Island Hawdon Shelter Campsite is a picturesque about avalanche danger in the area. robin/toutouwai, brown creeper/pīpipi, rifle- standard campsite and offers toilets, a cook- man/tītitipounamu, kākā, tūī, wood pigeon/ ing shelter and a picnic table. It’s surrounded CONSERVATION kererū, as well as rare native birds such as blue by mountains and is close to Hawdon River duck/whio, parakeets/kākāriki, yellowhead/ and Waimakariri River. Always boil water There is a great variety of wildlife in Arthur’s mohua, the rock wren/tuke, and great spotted from the tap before use. Pass area, but predators such as rats, stoats, kiwi/roroa. Kea are regulars in the area too, ferrets, possums and cats are also present and and are found only in the mountains of the Lake Pearson/Moana Rua Campsite, are a threat to bird life. Arthur’s Pass Wildlife South Island. They are super intelligent and a located by a high-country lake in the Waima- Trust is a programme run by a local commu- delight to see. Watch your food and belong- kariri Basin, is a standard campsite accessible nity group, undertaking community-driven ings when kea are around and never feed kea! by vehicles. The campsite is a great stopover initiatives to encourage and promote the con- when travelling in either direction on SH73. servation and enhancement of the flora and It’s important to remember that dogs are This campsite is a great place for bird watch- fauna within the national park. not allowed in the national park as they pose ing, and you’ll wake up to bird song. This is a significant risk to native wildlife. a wildlife refuge so motorised boats are not 5. Kura Tawhiti Pou – Credit: Department of allowed. Conservation 6. Lake Pearson/Moana Rua reflection ACCOMMODATION – Credit: Shellie Evans 7. Kea at the top of Avalanche Peak – Credit: Ruth McKie CC-BY-2.0 There is a variety of DOC accommodation There are many conservation volunteering opportunities, both for DOC and non-DOC led projects. For more information, visit www.doc.govt.nz/volunteer FOLDING MOBILITY SCOOTER • Foldable • Reliable • Strong • Affordable ph: Alan 021 433 038 Purchase / Hire / Repairs e: [email protected] www.supascoota.co.nz 29www.rvmagazine.co.nz

LIFESTYLE Christchurch Cathedral › Christchurch Rise from the rubble Work is underway to reinstate the Christ Church Cathedral as the symbol and heart of Christchurch. Kathy Catton investigates what’s been happening and when we can expect to see its doors opening again. 1 Story by Kathy Catton Photos supplied Christchurch City Council committed to funding $10 million, and in May 2020 work 1. The unmanned, remote-controlled digger is F rom 2012 to 2018, many of us watched finally commenced. clearing debris and retrieving heritage materials from the sidelines as heritage advocates from within the rubble 2. How we can expect and Church dignitaries argued about I met with Keith Paterson and Ainsley to see the cathedral to look once completed what would happen to the Christ Church Walter from the Christ Church Cathedral and reinstated 3. Stabilisation work is well Cathedral following the devastating damage Reinstatement Project to find out what is hap- underway at the cathedral 4. Keith Paterson, incurred during the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes. pening right now and when the public can Project Director has many years of working on The tower and spire had collapsed, and the expect to see the cathedral back open again. successful national and international projects west elevation was so severely damaged that it “We don’t carry any baggage from the past 2 caused the entire collapse of wranglings,” says Project Director Keith Pat- the iconic rose window. The erson. “We know the project can be done, so 30 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022 cathedral lay ruined. we’re here to make it happen as safely and efficiently as possible.” Limited safety access was allowed on the perim- The iconic cathedral has been part of eter and the cathedral was the city’s identity for over 150 years. Built deconsecrated to allow over a long period of time, it was conse- ‘make safe’ work to begin. crated as Christ Church Cathedral in 1881. However, it wasn’t until No stranger to earthquakes, the church September  2017 that the suffered earthquake damage in 1881 Synod endorsed an agreed and 1888, and selected areas were earth- solution to enable as much quake strengthened in 1998 and 1999. of the cathedral’s signifi- But it wasn’t enough to save it from the devasta- cance to be retained and tion of the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes. reinstated. The government contributed $25 million and Keith explains to me that the rebuild is being

3 managed in three phases. Phase one focuses on 4 bird’s-eye view of the location of the digger. It’s the main cathedral, vestries and tower and is all believed to be a world-first. about stabilisation and clean up. Phase two is objective that everyone working on the project the strengthening phase and the reinstatement goes home safely. “We know there are several items of inter- of the main cathedral and the addition of a new est inside the nave, such as parts of the rose tower. The third phase is the main building “We want to work as efficiently as possible, window that may be suitable for reuse. The phase, with a Visitors’ Centre being designed so we are looking at how we can overlap some digger will move carefully through the areas as well as a Cathedral Centre. of the key tasks, but more importantly, the where we think these items might be located, completed reinstated cathedral will be as safe in the hope we can retrieve them,” says Keith. “The initial phase has been all about making as any new public building,” says Keith. “This the cathedral safe. That’s what we are currently year, 2022, is when we envisage human entry, Another innovation was the use of a working on,” says Keith. “No one has been back as all the stabilising components will be in place remote-controlled robot dog, called ‘Spot’, into the cathedral yet, since 2012, so we have and certified. Then we can progress, knowing which was deployed into the cathedral to had to assess the damage and design stabilisa- the site will be as safe as any other construction obtain laser scans of interior areas that were tion solutions that will allow the reinstatement site in New Zealand.” previously inaccessible. Designed and built by work to progress safely.” This has been an Aware Group, Spot fires out 360,000 laser scan enormous undertaking, with protection being A significant milestone in this stabilisa- setpoints per second and captures high-reso- a priority alongside the retrieval, cataloguing tion work has been the introduction of an lution 360-degree images. This then provides and storage of existing heritage fabric. unmanned, remotely-operated digger into the more reliable dimensional information about inside of the cathedral. This digger has been the interior surface of the building. “One of the several items of significance that clearing out debris and masonry and retrieving we have recently retrieved is the flag that Sir heritage material. The digger is controlled from It’s this blend of the traditional with modern Edmund Hillary and his team flew at Scott Base an operations centre outside the cathedral, and technology that provides a unique aspect of during the expedition to the South Pole,” says five live-streaming cameras fitted at differ- this project; for example, stonemasons work- Ainsley Walter, Campaign Director. “The flag ent points on the digger allow the operator a ing with computer apps. Keith explains that was gifted by Sir Edmund to the cathedral in the stonework has been removed stone by 1958. Its recovery is a sign of the great progress stone, catalogued, then labelled and stored in we are making on the project.” such a way that each stone can be recycled and replaced in precisely the correct location, so as Christ Church Cathedral Reinstatement to reproduce the walls essentially as they were Limited (CCRL) appointed Holmes Consulting originally built, thereby maintaining the heri- as structural engineers to lead the stabilisation tage integrity of the work. All this information design and Naylor Love Canterbury as the is stored in an app developed by Beca. consultant contractor for work sequencing and construction planning input. The collabora- “Because we knew we would have to store tion between these three parties, together with these stones for two years, we also needed to architects Warren and Mahoney and heritage think about how they were being stored. We professionals Jenny May and William Fulton didn’t want to stack them onto wooden pallets, means all aspects are well considered with the because wood pallets rot over time. Treated timber was expensive and affected the stones, 31www.rvmagazine.co.nz

so we had to source a plastic recycled pallet that 5 to its iconic status. With Tūranga library and Te would stand the test of time,” says Keith. It’s this Pae as close neighbours, and the new 500-metre sense of Kiwi ingenuity that, again, symbolises to come,” says Ainsley. “We like to call it the tramway extension opened in June 2022, this the thoroughness and care of the project. friend-raising stage, rather than the fund-rais- centre of Christchurch is soon to return. I look ing stage. It’s about forming a new connection forward to the end of 2027, when the doors are Following consultation with key stakeholders with the building.” open again to everyone. on a wide range of issues including the design and heritage protection, resource consent was The Bishop of Christchurch, Peter Carrell, 5. In the heart of the city, Christ Church Cathedral is granted in December 2020, and building con- has been highly supportive of the process and a central symbol of the city sent for the main cathedral strengthening has is delighted with the progress. been granted. The team continues to work at pace, with the goal to have the cathedral open Ōtautahi Christchurch is reviving itself to visitors by 2027. month by month, and it’s thanks to the work of the Christ Church Cathedral Reinstatement In order to achieve this ambition, Keith rec- Project that we are well on the way to restoring ognises the importance of working together as the heart of the city and returning the cathedral a team, on what is an incredibly complex and intricate project. “We are lucky enough to have good engineers and good leaders working in the right way on this project,” he says. “We all want this project to succeed – whether it’s the heritage aspect, the structural aspect, the archi- tecture, the costings or the safety.” Success is, of course, inextricably linked to the funding of such an enormous project. The whole project is budgeted to cost around $150 million, with $130 million on the construction aspect alone. Ainsley is now responsible for raising the remaining $55 million. “It’s all about reconnecting people to this building,” she says. “It’s a building that is so symbolic of the pain of the earthquakes. Yet there’s so much good that has come out of this reinstatement. We are all starting to come together over this project – communities, reli- gions, civic groups – it’s incredible.” For so many of us, the cathedral is much more than just a place of worship or a religious building. It’s the city’s emblem and, in a sense, the city’s encyclopaedia. Everyone I speak to seems to have a story to tell about their connec- tion with the cathedral, whether it’s eating their sandwiches outside the cathedral during their lunch hour or taking visiting relatives inside and marvelling at the interiors. “It’s about changing the narrative of the building – from discourse to a fun location 32 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

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Okains Bay › Banks Peninsula TRAVEL Ultimate road trip to Okains Bay Why off the ‘beaten track’ is so worthwhile when traveling and exploring our countryside. Words Alex Stone Photos Wendy Riley & Okains Bay Museum 1 W hat’s the ultimate RV road trip at Okains Bay is New Zealand’s most remark- “A 1941 Ford truck, last used to take destination? A historic town. A able country museum. It’s unique also for its its owner to the Wairewa Urupā, add the unique museum. A creek, brimful wide collection of watercraft. A fleet of waka comma had been stripped and cut in two, with stories. A beach and a quiet to rival that of Te Papa’s, including Kahukākā with another chassis welded in the centre. country campsite. A sky full of stars? an original, restored waka tētē (a fishing boat) This was used to carry the waka.” (From an from the 1870s and Kōtukumairangi a full- interpretation panel in the waka shed) Okains Bay – and especially the extraor- size replica waka tāngata (a people-mover) dinary museum there – ticks all the boxes. built in the 1990s, both in a boatshed on the Be there on Waitangi Day, as we were, and First, let’s check the map for where this estuary’s edge. you’ll be privileged to see the new waka going little-known, under-appreciated, out-of-the- out with a full crew of fit, young Ngāi Tahu way place is. Okains Bay is on Te Pātaka o The old waka tētē has an epic story. Built in paddlers. (Apparently the old waka leaks too Rākaihautū / Banks Peninsula. Unlike all the 1870 in the Waitōtara Valley, north of Whan- much.) There’s also a shed filled with many other Banks Peninsula bays, which are deeply ganui, it had a motor installed in 1915, and other smaller waka – the everyday fishing indented and narrow, Okains Bay is wide and plied coastal routes as a trading vessel. After waka tētē or those used for trading or local open to the NE, where the big Pacific swells the Second World War, Kahukākā languished travel or by kids back in the day. come from. It can be a challenging anchorage. unloved on the river bank at Kaiwhaiki. A ten-foot tree even grew in her hull. Shed All this as well as the expected coun- So, the best approach to Okains Bay is blokes among our readers may be interested try museum exhibits such as old buildings overland: either by the slow and very scenic in some epic stats about her restoration in (including an entire sports pavilion!), a road from Christchurch or Lyttleton, via the 1970s: “Over 1250 feet of half-inch dowel working blacksmith shop, horse and cart tack, State Highway 75 and Summit road – about was inserted along the hull to tie the whole agricultural implements and machines, vin- 95km or an hour and 35 minutes; or by the canoe together, and gallons of low-density tage vehicles of every kind, an old-style print even slower and even more scenic road via Epifill epoxy filler used to both glue and gel shop, period fashion and culinary paraphe- Governor’s Bay, Teddington, Diamond Har- sections together.” As was then fashionable nalia aplenty. bour, Pūrau, Port Levy, Pigeon Bay and Little in the museum world, carved rauawa (top Akaloa. For this route, given the frequent boards), tauihu (bow figurehead), and tau- 1. The tidal estuary of the Opara River at Okains stops you’ll need for photoshoots, think in rapa (sternpost) were added to re-style the Bay used to be much deeper. But a Canterbury terms of a whole day’s journey. waka as a ‘war canoe’. earthquake in 1868 changed all that Either way, you’ll be richly rewarded. For 35www.rvmagazine.co.nz

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3 hand up for that project. (See sidebar) Murray Thacker (Te Tuhi), Qsm But perhaps the most remarkable element 4 Okains Bay Museum began as the private to the Okains Bay Museum is the collection collection of Murray Thacker, the great- Other drawcards are the pātaka (raised store- of boats of significant Pākehā heritage and grandson of the earliest Pākehā to settle in house) and whare whakairo (carved house), going back more than 150 years. There’s the Okains Bay. At age nine, Murray acquired both rarely seen in a rural museum setting. first Sumner lifeboat, one of an eventual fleet his first taonga Māori – a small toki of seven, propelled by oars of course. There pounamu gifted to him by Fred Waldron from This is all the legacy of one remarkable are whalers and fine clinker dinghies aplenty. neighbouring Stony Bay. While still a teenager, man, Murray Thacker, who devoted his life There are antique rowing shells, lapstrake he bought Waldron’s entire collection, which to the collection at Okains Bay Museum. built from tōtara. A Waimakariri dory built had been fossicked from Stony Bay and Pānau He was interested in taonga Māori from from 14x1-inch kauri planks. An early, if not in the 1930s and 1940s. Murray’s great uncle, throughout New Zealand and could speak the first, Avon River punt named after Kate Christopher Bodkin (‘Old CB’) Thacker, was some te reo Māori. But his collection grew Sheppard. Most intriguingly, an example of also a collector of Māori ‘curios’, including ever wider due to his policy of taking any the double-ended surfboats of Greek design (!) taonga personally fossicked from Okains. donations – especially those the established that loaded and unloaded the first ships Murray inherited some of Old CB’s collection museums couldn’t be bothered with, or arriving at Port Nicholson, now Wellington, and fossicked himself before it became which were in the too-much-hassle basket. in the 1830s and 1840s, and which were used unlawful. This included the complete historic Akaroa as fishing boats by the immigrant fishermen Murray went to Christchurch Boys High, then rugby pavilion, slated for demolition, which at Island Bay. trained as a blacksmith. He came back to Murray and his mates in typical fashion Okains to manage his own farm which became dismantled, moved over the hills, and re-as- a successful Hereford stud. sembled themselves. There’s a book that The museum began as a private collection should be written about him. I’ve put my in his own home. He bought the old cheese factory and then spent the next nine years setting up the museum. This included relocating old buildings and commissioning the wharepuni Whakaata and the pātaka Matuku- Rangi and building the Whare Taonga. He was awarded the Queen’s Service Medal shortly after gifting the Museum collection in 1977. In 2009 he was awarded the AC Rhodes History Medal by the Canterbury History Foundation. “The result of his work is one of the country’s outstanding local museums.” He died in 2017, but his legacy lives on. 2. A view up the Opara River estuary. The low bridge there now belies the fact that sizeable coastal trading ships used to be able to get up here 3. The Okains Bay store has been operating almost continuously since 1873. The ice creams are still very fine there 4. Okains Bay Museum has a regionally significant collection of heritage buildings, many saved from demolition and relocated by the Museum’s founder, Murray Thacker 37www.rvmagazine.co.nz

Here’s where local knowledge counts. If you’re interested in these European-heritage boats, ask to look-see behind the scenes, for almost all of them are undergoing conserva- tion work as part of a multi-year plan devised by nautical historian Peter McCurdy. We were fortunate to be introduced to Rick Flatman, who is overseeing this work. Wendy Riley, the manager of the museum, noted our inter- est in the waka, and offered the extra treat. “You need to talk to Rick.” And so I did – for hours – blokes’ heaven yarning about old boats, while Lesley was engrossed with the fertile photo safari the museum offers on all fronts. In 2016, Rick was asked to look at the res- toration of the museum’s whalers. Now he’s 5 totally, full-time committed to the whole collection. It’s an obsession with him: “With boats, mate, we’re nothing. Boats are the beginning of evolution.” As for the Sumner lifeboat, “She’s going to float again, come hell or high water.” Interest- ingly, in Peter’s comprehensive conservation plan he advises that a number of the boats are beyond floating again, and the goal for those is more museum-type conservation. But yes, the Sumner lifeboat will float again. That hell and high water has come to Living the Dream! MembeNrZDMisCcoAunts Infinity Caravans, one of the UK’s largest touring We’re one of the most trusted caravan dealers in New Zealand caravan retailers, is now represented in the with a reputation as one of Canterbury’s leading suppliers. We offer a range of new touring caravans and accessories, including South Island. Swift Celebration and Elddis Chatsworth Special Edition brands, at some of the most affordable prices in NZ. We pride ourselves on offering our clients confidence in their purchase, along with personal service and advice. Explore New Zealand with the assurance and comfort of a reliable caravan, enjoying holiday experiences and creating memories. SERVICES • Satellite & TV systems for every situation • Motorhomes and caravans off-grid solar system • Self containment work & certification • European caravans & RVs converted to NZ Regs • Mobile WiFi installation • Dual or single reverse cameras fitted • Electrical work & certification • Water tightness testing • Annual caravan service • Caravan & Motorhome Insurance repairs EACH CARAVAN COMES WITH • 40cm Automatic Satellite Dish • Satellite LCD TV • Self-Containment Certification • Weight plate upgraded • All on-road costs and NZ certifications (WOF, REGO, Electrical, Gas Certification) And More! Call in soon, or visit our website at www.infinitycaravans.co.nz, to claim the key to a brand new life. 0800 115120 [email protected] Unit 2/10 Musgrove Close, Wigram, Christchurch 8042 www.infinitycaravans.co.nz 38 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

Okains Bay in the past. What is now a shal- – but these were each destroyed by the big on Banks Peninsula and has been operating low estuary with a sandbar entrance, was once waves that can enter the bay. The Pier Hotel almost continuously since being built by John a wide river deep enough for coastal trading disappeared too. After the third wharf (which Robinson. His brother William managed the ships to enter and tie up at a wharf. stretched into deeper water) was built in 1912, store and added a post office to the build- the bigger steamers Monica and John Ander- ing in 1892. The property was purchased by After Captain William Clifford set up as son served the bay. Murray Thacker in 1972 and he transferred a shipwright in Okains Bay in 1849, trading it to the museum in 2010. The store is open schooners and scows built there ran a litany The demise of New Zealand’s coastal ship- most days for snacks, drinks, and ice creams. of lovely names: Catherine Anne, Gypsy, Julia ping in the middle of the 1900s – a result of It was gifted by the Museum to the Okains Anne, Maiden City. Timber was sent under the ever-improving road and rail network – Bay Enhancement Society in 2021. sail to Lyttleton aboard the Catherine, Lilly, means that those jetties now only exist in the Deveron, and Minnie, which was wrecked faded memories of historical photographs. Opened in May  1860, the Okains Bay right there. Some of the farmers in the district Library was the first public Library on Banks invested in bigger ships built further afield: But to spend time in Okains Bay is to live in Peninsula. It was part of Henry Torlesse’s Maid of the Mill, Alert, Jannett, Backwell and both the realm of history and the here-and- work, as Vicar. His mission: to provide an Sea Devil. Then there were the yachts built in now. For the township includes a precinct of alternative to the drunkenness and other the valley: Margaret (a 20 ton ketch, 1865), 19th century buildings, clustered in a main lawless activities that prevailed there in the Eagle (double-ended ketch, 1856) and Cath- street that authentically takes you back in early days of Pākehā settlement. He bought erine (1874). time. land from local cow-cockie John Fluerty and, with the help of Arthur Tucson, 220 books At this time, Okains Bay was exporting There’s the Okains Bay Library (1860), St were collected within a year with another 500 milled timber, grass seed, honey and dairy John the Evangelist Church (1863), the old on order from England. produce, including their famous cheese. An school (1872), the Okains Bay Store (1873), earthquake and 3m tsunami in 1868 buggered and the seed store (1880–1908?). All of these The seed store is one of the few remaining up the bed of the river; it’s now decidedly structures are New Zealand heritage build- cocksfoot seed sheds on Banks Peninsula. tidal, and dries out almost completely at low ings, recognised by Heritage New Zealand Cocksfoot grass-seed production was a tide. Henceforth the ships docked at a succes- Pouhere Taonga. major industry on the peninsula from the sion of three wharves, the first built in 1875 late 19th century until the early 20th century The Okains Bay Store is the real deal. It’s one of the earliest store and dwelling complexes 6 39www.rvmagazine.co.nz

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with the seed being sold both nationally the name ‘Okains Bay’. Accommodation in Okains Bay and internationally. The Okains Bay seed If country walking is your thing, Wendy Okains Bay is the kind of place where you’ll store was built some time between 1880 want to linger. Hence: There’s the beach-side and 1908. It also became the local blokes’ has more local advice. “Aside from the easy campsite run by the Christchurch City Council: meeting place and had a pool table inside. Millennium Bridge Loop by the river, there is www.okainsbaycamp.co.nz Wendy from the museum tells me “The a great walk to Little Okains Bay Kawatea that Or for full immersion, you can stay at the Okains Bay seed store was used in a film starts from the back of the cattle yard near the museum’s retro bach, or in the bunk rooms at shoot, and the sign that says ‘Okains Bay beach end and takes the walker up a steep the rugby pavilion. Garage’ was never removed so it often gets but short track, from Okains and down into mistaken for being something it isn’t.” Kawatea, where there is a strong chance you’ll For the Museum Bach: be the only one there! www.okainsbaymuseum.co.nz/services/ If you’re wondering where the name comes museum-bach/ from, its genesis in uncertain. The Cyclope- “The adventurous can try taking the track For the bunk rooms: dia of New Zealand says it was named by one from the hillside of the carpark which takes www.airbnb.co.nz/rooms/47316966 Captain Hamilton, “who, while passing in his you past the remains of the jetties, but they www.okainsbaymuseum.co.nz/ vessel, happened to be reading a book written will have to negotiate the tide and some Bookings essential for all Okains Bay by Okain (O’Kane), an Irish naturalist.” jagged rocks to get all the way to Kawatea. It accommodation options is a dramatic walk even if you don’t make it From before those times, the Māori history all the way as the ocean crashes into the rocks of the area is well known and is the rohe of on the left. Good luck!” Te Rūnanga o Koukourārata whose marae, Tūtehuarewa is based at nearby Koukourārata Okains Bay – a destination off the beaten (Port Levy). Okains has been a place of Māori track that ticks a bundle of the best kind of occupation and activity by Waitaha, Ngāti boxes. Right on! Māmoe and Ngāi Tahu for many generations. 7. A unique weathervane, in an equally-unique The groves of karaka trees at Kawatea (Little position, above the hall housing the old waka at Okains Bay) to the south of the main beach Okains Bay Museum attracted the Ngāi Tahu rangatira Moki while 8. The Okains Bay School, which operated from 1872 leading his expeditionary force south in the great waka Makawhiua in the 18th century. Now, Ōkeina is the Māori transliteration of 8 41www.rvmagazine.co.nz

WALK & CYCLE TRAILS Top 5 Walks Summits The Top 5 New Zealand Great Walk huts at which to catch the sunset New Zealand Great Walk huts offer many home comforts, but more outstanding than the average suburban home is their position for scenic sunsets. It’s as if some of these back- country huts were placed perfectly for sunset getaways to watch twilight colours, rather than as a convenient shelter at a set walking distance. So, for those that find it hard to rise early for sunrise, here is a selection of the best huts to arrive at for glowing sunsets. Words Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 1 Moonlight Tops Hut Paparoa Track This new track has two flash huts complete with lighting, double glazing and USB ports! Sitting on the flank of the Paparoa Range, the Moonlight Tops Hut looks directly at the Pike escarpment rather than westward. The 5km long and 300m vertical escarp- ment ripples with rock-layered strata and when the evening light hits these formations it casts a thousand shadows along its face. Step outside behind the hut and sit among the golden tussocks and be immersed in celestial bliss. Watch as the sun dips into the Tasman Sea some 1000 metres below, while the sky and sea swells change colour from a golden glow to a midnight blue. 2 Heaphy Hut Heaphy Track Not all sunsets are observed from on high, and the Heaphy Hut certainly tops the list for sea-level sunsets. This modern hut is set into coastal rainforest with the windows gazing out over a grassy lawn to the river mouth and the Tasman Sea beyond. While the sunset from the hut is pleasant, go the extra mile by walking only a few paces to the beach. Firstly find yourself a driftwood log to sit on, keep a hand free to swat the sandflies and cast your eyes to the horizon to enjoy nature’s evening display. Like gazing into the flames of a fire, the ball in the sky is mesmerising from the shoreline and makes a memorable sight at the start or end of this epic track. 42 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

3 Luxmore Hut Kepler Track If there was a Great Walks hut at which to enjoy both sunrise and sunset then the Lux- more Hut comes out on top. It’s certainly on top, as it sits 1000m above the south fiord of Lake Te Anau that stretches east–west, thus perfectly positioned on the northern hillside for a twilight treat. Whether you sit in the lounge and look out the grand window to the lake, or head outside, the sunset glow casting shadows over the Fiordland ranges and the Te Anau basin is a view that’s hard to beat. 4 Oturere Hut Tongariro Northern Circuit Oturere Hut certainly is a unique spot for capturing a volcanic sunset. This hut is on an exposed terrace on the barren volcanic plains of the central plateau. It’s worth wrapping up warm (at 1360m it’s the highest Great Walk hut after all) to pop outdoors and watch the evening display. Sitting among the tephra outcrops on a fine evening offers a reward- ing sunset over the Desert Road with a Kaimanawa Range backdrop with its rippling shadows. If you turn around, the symmetrical cone of Mt Ngauruhoe is just metres away, and if you’re in luck the swirling mid-layer cloud may appear like a glowing dress around a partly glowing cone. 5 Panekiri Hut Lake Waikaremoana Panekiri Hut sits on the edge of the Panekiri 43www.rvmagazine.co.nz Bluff which is stunning in itself. Here, the cliff just plummets several hundred metres down to the star-shaped and forest-lined Lake Waikaremoana. Yet if you are staying over- night during a fine evening then you are in for a treat. Sitting at 1180m you can watch the sun’s final rays cast long shadows along the rugged Te Urewera rainforest. The shadows start on the lake’s western waters where it goes to a deep blue hue surrounded by the angled ridgeline ranges. While it’s no sun-dipping- into-the-ocean experience, the magic lies in the subtle changes of light on the lake and the landscapes.

ROADTRIP Clyde, Middlemarch > Central Otago CentralOtago roadtripClydeto Middlemarch John Bishop had wanted to ride Central Otago’s rail trail for a long time but had never found the time or the bicycle to suit. He compromised and spent three days doing a road trip by car instead. Story + Photos John Bishop 1 44 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

2 Accommodation is available at the Dunstan 1. The rail trail at Ōtūrēhua (established by having a wander around). It 2. Clyde is the starting point for C ycling the rail trail in Central Otago is would be like staying in an antique shop, I riders on the rail trails but also the ultimate experience, but driving the decided, which would be attractive for those popular for all types of bikers road route will deliver stunning sights drawn to history. 3. Directions and distances for and experiences to please the senses, riders on the rail trail and short schedules. Across the road is the famous Oliver’s Restaurant, its menu still positively attractive. 45www.rvmagazine.co.nz I spent three days, accompanied by my wife, covering the interesting places on State 3 Highways 85 and 87 from Clyde up to Ran- furly and over to Middlemarch and back to Dunedin. At almost every point of the jour- ney we were seeing the stations where the railway passed, now the stopping points for cyclists doing the trail. By road our route took us from Queenstown to Clyde then through to Middlemarch. These two towns are the start/finish points of the railtrail, though cyclists commonly start in Clyde and head to Middlemarch to have the wind at their backs, something even e-bikers, now the majority of travellers, appreciate. By car none of this is an issue. The rail trail starts at the bike shop in Clyde on the main street in the town’s historic area. We had coffee at Dunstan House sitting out- side in increasing heat, and I recalled the hymn I lift up mine eyes to the hills as I sur- veyed the rugged bare hills overshadowing the town and the Clyde Dam just beyond.

4 Tempting, but we didn’t linger and headed stock sales in the 1961/’62 season. Incongru- Heading up to St Bathans the road takes you down the road to Chatto Creek where we met ously, in the garden as part of the children past Becks where there are two hotels called the a group of rail trailers pausing for a breather play area there is a stone hippopotamus, a White Horse, an old one now closed, and its on the embankment at the back of the pub. recent addition by the new owners. There is newer namesake across the road where there is a no significance in the hippo, the barmaid tells parking meter whose hands seem permanently The railway ran through here and the pic- me. It’s just a piece of art that the owner liked. stuck indicating several minutes of time left. tures on the wall of the pub, built in 1886, tell the story. They sit alongside the dates for We stopped for lunch at the Muddy Creek St Bathans is an old gold-mining town which Cafe in Omakau, an old-fashioned had its heyday in the 1860s. It’s preserved its 5 tearooms that also doubles as a take- buildings and the permanent population is away for fish, chips and other fried now eight – one up from this time last year. delights. The tea and sandwiches go There is hope that a developer who is offering down well, the locals are friendly, sections for sale will attract out-of-towners and the toilet is clean. wanting to build holiday homes. Later that day we checked into our accommodation just outside of The town is notable for three things: one Lauder. of these is the history and the buildings, and Wildlife roam outside the door a self-guided walking tour is recommended. and there is an open fire, Wi-Fi, Allow up to an hour. comfy beds and the underfloor heating in the bathroom is a bonus Secondly there is the mirror lake where the on chilly nights and nippy mornings. colourful hillside is reflected in the lake. It’s a delightful shot. Thirdly there is a ghost in the hotel: Room Quality Accommodation, Local Tours, Transfers, Tour Planning 022 694 1390 | [email protected] www.middlemarchlodge.co.nz 46 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022

7 One of the Vulcan Hotel is where Rosie (sur- you have views out across the surrounding 4. The countryside from the name unknown but perhaps it was McDonald), countryside to the mountain ranges. The garden of our BnB who operated as a prostitute servicing the landscape is barren and the light is almost 5. Bar of the Chatto Creek Hotel miners in the 1860s, was brutally murdered. always perfect for photos. 7. The Vulcan Hotel at St Bathans where the presence of Her killer was never found and today her One of the many joys of our journey was Rosie the murdered prostitute ghost still stalks the premises. She is felt and driving along the Ida Valley, a 40km long can be experienced heard but rarely seen. The hotel’s proprietor stretch of straight but undulating road where 8. Inside Gilchrist store at and manager Nobby explained: “She’s been sheep grazed on verdant pastures and there Ōtūrēhua, one of the oldest quite active lately, making banging noises, was hardly any traffic. general stores in New Zealand locking and unlocking doors, moving things around. Sometimes you can feel her beside The mountains tinged with snow seemed 47www.rvmagazine.co.nz or behind you but when you turn there’s no close, and at 500m above sea level we seemed one there.” closer to the sky than usual. Visually it’s beau- tiful country, unpopulated, seemingly vast “Just recently we had some new carpet put and empty except for the animals. in. Rosie can’t have liked it very much because she certainly made her displeasure known,” 8 Nobby told me in a very matter of fact way. Nobby told of one recent visitor, a woman who asked to stay in Room One where Rosie’s bloodied body was found. “She checked in and we gave her the key to Room One, but when she went to the room she found she had the key to Room Three. “We are both sure she had the right key to begin with, so Rosie must have switched them. The key to Room One was hanging on the rack where the keys are kept.” The woman guest found this very freaky, stayed the night in Room Three and left the next morning. Another sight worth a visit is the Falls dam 15 minutes off the main road to St Bathans. A gravel road leads up to the dam. From there

In prehistoric times, before the Southern 9 the past. Built in 1894, on a site chosen as the Alps were created, centralotago.co.nz says only flat land suitable for a railhead, the Hyde the Manuherikia and Ida Valleys were “a Naseby, we drove around and parked on the Station included an engine shed and the line’s giant sub-tropical lake with crocodiles and main street. We got a warm welcome and a first locomotive shed. flamingos for locals.” good feed of whitebait, chips and salad at the Royal Hotel. Plenty of the little fellas in the The history of Hyde village reads much the Now the area is known internationally patties and a good crowd in too. There is life same as many others along the Trail. Early gold as the place where Jane Campion shot her in this coldest of cold towns. We called in to miners (2000 of them), then pioneer sheep Oscar-winning film The Power of the Dog. The the stadium where curling matches are held; farmers, then the coming of the Railway, with story is set in Montana but the Ida Valley has it’s of international standard and the sport is construction workers – and now Rail Trailers. the same close-to-the-sky feeling as Montana popular in these parts. But Hyde had some other minerals to put it on which is known in the USA as the Big Sky the map – scheelite, pure white silica sand for State. Next stop was our accommodation in Mid- glass making, schist rock used by builders, and dlemarch for our last night. We missed seeing “white ball” clay, still used for fine pottery (see We called into Hayes Engineering Works in the Hyde Station site, it is packed full of old the clay pit from Eton Street). Ōtūrēhua, a popular place with static displays railway memorabilia.The old Hyde Railway of heritage machinery and tools and informa- station, 2km south of the village, once in pri- Cyclists going south will come to a stone tion boards. vate ownership, has been purchased by the cairn, a sobering memorial to the 21 people Otago Central Rail Trail Trust and given a who died in the tragic Hyde train crash on 6 The story is interesting: an innovative Scot- much needed face lift. The building is now June 1943. tish engineer called Ernest Hayes migrated open to the public and offers a glimpse into with his wife Hannah and they started farm- ing in the area in 1882. He made his own tools because he couldn’t find any locally. He also made some new devices which became popular among the locals. So he set up an engineering business and his wife biked around the area taking orders. His sons relo- cated the business to Christchurch in 1923 and Heritage NZ bought and restored the farmhouse and sheds with tools. ($12 pp entry fee). Another interesting place to explore is Gilchrist’s Store just up the road opposite the pub. (There’s always a pub.) Inside it looks almost as it did when it opened in 1902: big counters with lots of goods on display or in tins and jars on shelves up to the ceil- ing accessed by staff on ladders. There was no self-service here. Seek out treasures like the original telephone exchange, an antique bacon slicer, tinned coffee and food from the late 1800s. At lunchtime on the Friday it was quiet in 10 48 Vol 19 Nov-Dec 2022