NZToday-Collectors Edition Walks and Cycle Trails 2022

Ōtepoti Dunedin Beaches, bikes & gentle hikes T he gorgeous south east coastline of the South Island is packed with scenic Camping facilities are readily accessed at Valley and wander the network of easy native wonders, excellent cuisine and some of the Portobello Holiday Park, a great base for bush tracks around Ross Creek, take a snap of the most accessible recreation options in exploring the wider peninsula and its many the historic reservoir or discover a closely held the country. Sitting within this dramatic wildlife and heritage attractions such as Lar- Dunedin secret in nearby Nicols Falls, which stretch overlooking the Pacific Ocean is Ōtepoti nach Castle and the Royal Albatross Centre, by night is also home to a glow worm grotto. Dunedin, a place of boutique city charm, wild which should be on every Kiwi’s bucket list. These are both great, sheltered options for beauty and plenty of gentle walking and cycling rainy days and the Leith Valley Holiday Park trails to explore. Those that prefer to explore on foot can or NZMA site are conveniently located nearby. choose between some of the 30-odd beaches The latest and greatest of these is the cycling that lie within 30 minutes’ drive of downtown This is only just scratching the surface, as a and walking path alongside the Otago Har- Dunedin. The easily accessible Warrington compact city with a sprawling natural hinter- bour. A feat of engineering which allows you Beach has sweeping views of the gorgeous land, there are hundreds of options to choose to cycle or walk between St Leonards on the north coast and Blueskin Bay with short from, on foot or bike, gentle or challenging. West Harbour side, right around to Porto- stay camping permitted at the domain in the bello on the Otago Peninsula with only a few summer months. Nearby, you’ll find weekend But no matter what you decide to do, short sections still on the road. Eventually, it refreshments in the form of Arc Brewery on you’ll never be too far from civilisation and will run seamlessly from Port Chalmers to SH1 and the Blueskin Nursery Café, Harvey the thriving dining and craft brewery scene Portobello, even now it’s a stunning day out Street Merchants and others in Waitati. that has taken off in Dunedin over the last with plenty to enjoy along the way. Combine this with a trip to Orokonui Eco decade from the quirky cool alleyway vibe of Sanctuary just up Blueskin Road for a serene Steamer Basin through to the swish brew pub The well-built pathway is totally flat and stroll through this genuine cloud forest pop- style of Emerson’s or traditional appeal of the suitable for all fitness levels, with a high ulated with native bird life. Speight’s Ale House; a refreshing reward after chance of spotting local wildlife along the a day or two of active pursuits is just what’s way. Popular sections include the Vauxhall For a different aspect, head up the Leith called for. to Broad Bay stretch (15km) on the Otago Peninsula side, which not only affords spec- tacular views, but plenty of obligatory stops for ice cream, coffees and great food at the likes of The Duck or Glenfalloch Gardens and Café. Park up at the Vauxhall Yacht Club and hire an e-bike from the Otago Harbour Golf Challenge for a leisurely ride at your own pace or bring your own cycle and start your excursion from any point along with the way. One of the best new attractions to pop up en-route is the Port to Port Cycle Ferry, which transports cyclists from Portobello to Port Chalmers and vice versa, as part of its ‘Cycle the Loop’ experience, which takes in the quaint inlets, colourful boat sheds and characterful harbourside townships. 149NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle trails Collector’s Edition 2022

WEST COAST Paparoa Track cycle trail PEaxppaeGrcroteaaatTtiroancsk The first group through the Paparoa Track Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 1 150 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

I have great expectations of the Paparoa Track. I had a hand in the design of our new Great Walk when I trudged for 10 weeks through then-untracked wilderness and I saw plenty of potential for play in the landscape. I am intrigued by how the track design we envisioned and marked in blue tape has been built, and how it might feel to ride in reality. I expect a world-class ride … time will tell. Four years ago, as we packed up our field camp in the hills, trail builders arrived to convert our survey tapes into physical works. They were hampered by the wet West Coast weather and ex-tropical cyclones that delayed their progress. So recently, when the announcement came that the track would be fully opened on the 1st of March 2020, I went online, booked hut tickets and planned a trip to the West Coast. This latest Great Walk is the longest of any Great Walk or Ride on the sub-alpine tops in the country. Most of NZ’s Great Walks are just that – walks – but this track is the only one you can also ride year-round! I love grand mountainous views, and knowing there are plenty of these on this track I am extra keen to map the Paparoa Track for the Great Rides App. I am ready early on the trail’s opening day. I reach Blackball which is just north- east of Greymouth. Blackball is the base for the track if you are traversing west towards Punakaiki. This little settlement, tucked into the Paparoa Range, is famous for the ‘For- merly the Blackball Hilton’ hotel, Blackball Salami and as the birthplace of the NZ Labour Party. Now it will also be known as the start of the Paparoa Track which begins just above the town at a place called Smoko-ho Carpark. It’s mid-morning the day before the full track opening when I reach the carpark. Around the corner from me at the trailhead is a group gathering for a customary bless- ing under the carved waharoa (gateway). Their vocal harmony and the strumming guitar are joined by a chorus of birdlife – the vibrant birdsong is likely the result of the predator control network that runs for miles beside the track. The vibrant rainbow over my shoulder seems to be a good opening omen. It’s also appropriate given that the first pot of local gold was mined right at this spot by the early prospectors. 1. Rounding the Paparoa Range 151NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

2 Not long after the crowd parts and drives then, but there’s no sign of them nowadays. damp, steep bush-clad slope – it seems to have away, I drive my bike in the opposite direc- It’s all trees and ferns and dripping bush. been long-buried by a slip. Back on my bike, I tion on the original gold-mining pack track While in this area I also follow a benched continue to pedal up the main track and find to Croesus Knob – the first section of the track uphill to look for the old mineshaft, alpine herb gardens of my own that lie just Paparoa Track up to the tops. The track has but as far as I can tell – as I slither around the beyond the bushline of the Paparoa Range. a wide bench, gentle gradient and a rough surface. It is yet to get the loving touch from trail builders that the fresh trail beyond has felt. I climb through the rainforest, still drip- ping from the earlier drizzle, to reach Garden Gully. The surface is mossy and the round rocks on parts of the track are slick under my tyres. It’s all rideable, but tricky in places. I venture along the Garden Gully side track and find not a garden but a collection of historic relics with the tiniest huts and the biggest gold stamper battery. Garden Gully? Perhaps when mining was in full force their tailings may have created mounds of rock gardens? Maybe the huts had gardens outside back 2. Crossing the Poraorari River 3 3. The junction to Garden Gully with a curious weka 4. Crossing the first suspension bridge 152 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

4 Immerse yourself in over 100 years of history at one of the most iconic hotels on the west coast • Enjoy friendly atmosphere at our renowned Provisioning by… restaurant and bar where you can meet the locals. www.foodscapes.co.nz • Cosy accommodation with room for groups. • Powered motorhome sites available • Free WIFI 26 Hart St, Blackball · 04 3732 4705 · [email protected] · www.blackballhilton.co.nz 153NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

56 I pass a historic hut and moments later reach roll along the newly formed ridgeline trail, as the single track through rock gardens, snak- the Ces Clark Hut where the deck presents does the spilling cloud we encounter. Ahead ing around craggy knobs in the open country sweeping views of the forested green hills that is 10km of tussocky tops, broken only by the before arriving at the new Moonlight Tops descend into the Grey Valley. It is lunchtime occasional rocky outcrop and now and then Hut. This back-country hut is fitted out with and after saving my GPS data I head inside a whisp of a cloud. As the cloud disappears, some of the comforts of home – lighting, gas and happen to meet the Rosie party of six the trail swaps between both sides of the hobs and even USB charging points! Our riders from Christchurch. Over lunch we talk range. The words of Dickens’ Great Expec- high-country home also has priceless views, and they invite me to join them on their ride tations came alive as ‘we changed again, and being up at 1000 metres, with the hut win- to the Moonlight Tops Hut. I take up the invi- yet again, and it was now too late and too dows gazing out at the 300-vertical-metre and tation as I am keen for some cycling company. far to go back, and I went on. And the mists 5km-long escarpment that is the poster child had all solemnly risen now, and the world lay for the track. The jagged cliff edge has the Beyond the hut, we continue to climb. We spread before me.’ Here I joyfully ride along same profile as the hut warden’s pruning saw soon leave the historic pack track behind and Magic Awaits A West Coast Adventure Has Begun The Kawatiri Coastal Trail is a Grade 2 family friendly cycling and walking heritage trail which will connect the Buller District towns of Westport & Charleston. The area’s unique geology, diverse ecology, extensive Māori & European history and vast seascapes will make it one of New Zealand’s finest day or multi-day rides. Full Trail will be completed late 2022 Some Sections Open www.kawatiricoastaltrail.co.nz 154 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

7 that we watch cutting the track closure tape that evening. We also watch the sun go down over the Tasman Sea, the sunset stunning as it casts a pink hue over the vertical and cor- rugated escarpment face. Dawn is cool, calm and clear. Dickens’ words are true for us in that ‘it was one of those March days when the sun shines hot and the wind blows cold; when it is summer in the light, and winter in the shade.’ The escarpment walls are in shadow as the sun casts beams over its edge. All eight of us who overnighted together eat quietly, silenced as 5. Mapping my way along the tops 8 6. Coming around the mountain when I come 7. The Moonlight Tops with the cloud starting to clear 8. Moonlight Tops Hut with the escarpment backdrop VISITING THE WEST COAST? COME AND STAY IN OUR TINY HOUSES AT THE DOOR STEP TO THE PAPAROA TRACK www.paparoaaccommodation.co.nz 155NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

9 we watch the golden glow strike the previ- catchment and the strata formations of this As I cross the bridge on this sunny day I peer ously closed section of track. The morning’s massive cliff line; however, we continue, keen down, and this time the swirling water holes rays reflect off freshly laid quartz gravels to see what the track next has in store for us. are devoid of swimmers although the day beckoning our party to explore the beautifully Eventually, the track leaves the tops for the is equally stunning. I follow the track and glistening path. Enlightened and loaded we descent where the trail builders have mag- the flow downstream where the river and I accept the invitation. nificently built a magic carpet that flies us squeeze through a tight gorge before zipping around cliffs and corners and lands us safely along the flats towards Punakaiki. As I enter Our entire overnight hut party heads off in the cloud forest. Then just around the next the flats I start to encounter others who are early in the cool shade, keen to be the first bend at the escarpment base, a bridge takes coming in to start their adventures. I stop and visitors to explore the completed track. We us tantalisingly close to the spray of the tall- chat to a couple of them who are rapt by the leave together, but we soon leave behind the est of waterfalls – spontaneously our group fine weather and at how the trail winds up quiet Japanese trekker as we make our way wows. Wow! high between the confluences of two rivers, to the Pike Saddle. After riding through the one with a wide oxbow bend. In either direc- cloud forest we reach the saddle and pause for Along the ridge we cruise, mainly down tion, this is a fabulous trail. a moment; seeing the Pike River coal mine’s but with a few ups to slow our pace. At the ventilation shaft far below in the forest, we new Pororari Hut I bid farewell to my riding I reach a junction that divides cyclists from silently remember those lost underground. companions, who pull out for an early lunch walkers, cyclists having an extra kilometre On the surface we are mere metres from break while I ride on alone through the to travel to a separate carpark at the south- the giant escarpment. The track narrows woods to reach the Pororari River. Here the ern side of Punakaiki. To get there the track and the land buckles with layered rock for- limbs of beech trees arc over the waterway turns south and I make one last climb over a mations revealing its inners. Last night’s hut and the deep clear pools below are perfect small saddle and down a fun flowing trail that warden’s geology lesson comes alive as we for a cool dip. I was here with a riding friend pops out between two carved pou, then over ride on the edge of this ruptured fault rely- two months ago when this section of the a suspension bridge to reach Punakaiki River ing on the traction of our knobbly tyres to trail partly opened; we took a dip below the flats and the trailhead carpark. Wow, what hang on tight above the precipitous drops. suspension bridge in a couple of large swim- a ride! It has just become my new favourite I could have spent hours up here at the ming holes and were truly refreshed before trail. Arriving just after lunch I am the first viewpoint that looks over the sea, the Pike we headed out. It’s a glorious spot for a swim. visitor to complete the Paparoa Track. My Beach front bed & breakfast on the Punakaiki coastline 14kms north of Greymouth, ideally located for both the Photos by: Shakey Finger Photography West Coast Wilderness Trail and the Paparoa Track. With 2 acres of native bush and landscaped gardens Breakers overlooks the Tasman Sea with private access to remote West Coast beach. Four guest rooms with en-suite bathroom, balcony access and fantastic sea views so you can relax after your hiking/biking trip. Lie in bed and watch the rolling surf and be lulled to sleep by the sound of the breaking waves. Check our website for current packages including West Coast Wilderness Trail and Paparoa Track options. Come share our little slice of paradise… For bookings email: [email protected] Ph 03 762 7743 | www.breakers.co.nz

Stats 56.2km (cycling) Advanced Trail (Grade 4) Official Links: www.doc.govt.nz/paparoatrack Great Rides App: Use App logo and QR Code together great expectations started years ago when I was physically marking up some of the track and seeing the potential there. What the trail builders have done since is incredible and will become a must-do for any capable walker or wheeler – it’s a world-class ride indeed. With my expectations exceeded I pose for a celebration selfie at the end of the Paparoa Track; soon that will appear like a diary snapshot when I load it onto the Great Rides App. Enjoy! 9. Dawn’s golden glory 10 10. Bikes at the hut with the grand escarpment at sunset

WEST COAST Wilderness Trail Fossicking in the Wilderness Section four of the West Coast Wilderness trail is a ride celebrating both cultural and natural heritage Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 1 158 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

2 workable slabs. Skilled craftspeople extract meticulously upgraded since the last train the best value from the raw stones by slic- rolled by some 40 years ago. Now it keeps I became officially designated a fool in a ing them in different orientations. This riders safe from the road traffic and stands town called Ross. You see a few days earlier water-lubricated process still produces a fine ready to protect future generations of cyclists. I had travelled up the coast with a riding white powder which settles in every nook We stop for a moment in the middle of the mate on our way to the official opening of and cranny of the room. Punters like us stay bridge and look down into the dark waters of the Paparoa Track. Given the long journey clean in a glassed-off area that affords per- the lake-fed creek. Flax bushes line its banks from the Deep South, we decided to break up fect viewing of the goings-on. The freshly and submerged water plants wave with the the road trip and spend a day on the southern cut stone slabs are then transported into the current’s oscillations, mesmerisingly draw- section of the West Coast Wilderness Trail. As manufacturing room where artists transform ing one into deep contemplation. We just sit planned, we arrived in Hokitika just in time raw pieces of the green rock into valuable and and stare. Before roads and rail arrived in the for a tour in one of the jade stores on the main delicate artworks. We watch through a glass area, this waterway together with the lake street. Our tour leader, Brianna, gathered our partition as a woman sitting quietly on a stool and coastal lagoons were used as a transport small group and led us into a side room where skilfully shapes and smooths the small stones. route by settlers to link the towns of Hokitika she provided an informative talk about our It is a fascinating process watching a jewel and Ross. Then early in the 20th century, the country’s jade. She certainly is a rich mine of becoming jewellery. Ross branch railway line was built for freight information, easily sharing her knowledge on all and passenger transport before it eventually things jade. I glean from her, via backlit samples After leaving the jade factory we grab a bite closed at the turn of the century. It is fantastic from around the world, the distinctiveness of to eat nearby and feel restored. Restoration that this Great Ride can run beside the former our nephrite jade, its traditional uses and how of another kind takes place just south along travel routes of the waterways using part of it originates deep in the Alps before erosion the track at the restored Mahinapua Bridge the former railway infrastructure to once over geological time washes it out to the West where the trail crosses the highway, and we again transport people to Ross. Coast beaches. ride smoothly along the timber planks of the former railway truss bridge. It has been We roll off the bridge and enter the low- Next, we are taken to the cutting room land forest taking us from bright sunlight to where huge circular saws cut the rock into dappled green and golden light patterns as we ride into the wilderness. The trail here is sublime. The surface is wide and flat and the gravel path winds its way around kāmahi trees. The dark waters we cross are tannin rich, and I’m not fooled as to what creatures may live in the dark water. My imagination is on fire and I don’t want to jump in. Soon we encounter another bridge over the creek and on the opposite bank is Greenie’s Grotto. 1. The former Mananui sawmill is full of rusty relics 2. Watching the artists at work is a treat. Shaping the greenstone is a fine art 3. The former Mahinapua railway truss 3 bridge is a delight to ride 159NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

‘Grotta’ is an Italian word for cave and while this one is mostly boarded off, you can still peek inside this dark tunnel. I never knew Greenie, but I picture a short, stocky gold miner who a century back built the low tunnel into the hillside in the hopes of finding his fortune. I wonder if he did? Or perhaps living in this beautiful forest was all the reward he needed? I decide it was proba- bly a pretty ghastly life for Greenie back then. We’re in the sun on a good track on modern bikes and are well-fed, in his day in this wet part of New Zealand life probably wasn’t as carefree and sunny. Back on the trail we head up and over the bank that supports the grotto and descend to the former site of the Mananui sawmill. Little remains of the mill, just the rusting relics of drive wheels, boilers and the mill foundation that once housed the industrious operations here, over a hundred years ago. A small town once supported the timber mill but it is long gone and is, ironically, now overtaken by regenerating forest. The trees won! The logs of huge trees that were felled in the area were transported to the mill by the timber tramline along which we are about to cycle. Leaving the mill site we clatter along a 300- 4 metre long boardwalk perched improbably An iconic country hotel in the heart of Greytown We celebrate the best of what the Wairarapa has to offer, through our food, beverages, accommodation, and warm rural hospitality. 109 Main Street, Greytown, Wairarapa www.thewhiteswanhotel.co.nz 160 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

5 over a wetland before reaching the straights the forest of the timber tramline, and beyond 4. Hanging out beside the of the timber tramline. I enjoy the scattered to the Tasman Sea where we started earlier picture-perfect ponds relics, the rail cuttings and ease of riding in the day. Spiralling downward we return 5. I don’t know Greenie but I along this forested stretch. It’s hard to imag- to the lower steel structure to experience picture a short stocky gold miner ine steam locomotives passing through here the cantilevered part of the walkway – just 6. There is a heap of history with freshly felled rimu and kahikatea logs in like a diving springboard, it protrudes well along the timber tramline tow. Soon we reach the end of the tramline at beyond its last support. The gentle flex and the junction with a former highway that now spring we feel and its extension away from 161NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022 takes us to another top spot. the support masts make it seem like you could almost dive into the lake from this viewpoint. Just down the old highway a smidge, we park our bikes beside the trail at the West 6 Coast Treetop Walk and take a short stroll. It’s a welcome change to walk rather than ride. We climb a small terrace which leads us towards a ledge. Walking to the end of this bank we are stunned by a wondrous elevated steel walkway structure – it is impressive in scale and appears to magically levitate near the canopy of the trees we are peering over from the bank we are on. A few more steps and we are up high in the canopy with the birds, drifting safely along the platform 20 metres up! Both of us are in awe of how this half-kilometre walkway transforms our experience of the podocarp forest. In front of us are giant rimu with their droop- ing branchlets, normally well out of reach but now within our gentle grasp. We climb a viewing tower and go even higher; its spiral staircase around a central column takes us to 40 metres above the forest floor. We’re flying now. We are well above the canopy and look right over it to Lake Mahinapua,

Returning to the base building and resisting 7 when we arrived. As for what happened to the enormous temptation of the fabulous scrub and bush and provides an umbrella of my vial of treasure or trash – I’m no fool and array of food on offer, we hop on our bikes sorts under which we start our fossicking. We have kept my riches to display proudly on and feel blessed that the historic timber mill ditch our shoes and drop into the creek. Ini- my desk. The flecks sparkle in the sun and its did not gobble up all these standing giants. tially we just search any old spot in the waters golden contents dance for me as I punch hard but soon refine our process by searching out on the keyboard writing this story. These are The trail from here leads south past Ruat- calm eddies where our elusive flakes may the memories and moments that bring wealth apu and onto the former Ross branch railway have settled. How much time went by as we to my life and I don’t feel the least bit foolish line. The line runs parallel with the coastline hunched over our pans in the pouring rain, admitting it. and the ride is straightforward as well as I have no idea. Time is irrelevant when find- straight as an arrow. We cruise along the trail ing your fortune. Each golden fleck I discover 7. The museum models are well done with the Alps over our left shoulder and the spurs me on to search for more. and very realistic sea on our right. After another lovely long 8. Panning my way to riches truss bridge, the trail shoots through to Ross. Soon my little vial of water has golden flakes 9. Hard to see my flecks of foolishness scattering the bottom. But the fever lasts only Ross was home to one of the richest gold- so long in this rain. Cold and soaked through fields and largest ever gold nugget finds we return to the museum to hand back the (‘Honourable Roddy’ at 3.09kg) in the coun- gold pans and show Kim our finds. I hand try. The place is rich in history too. At the over my loot but Kim is not convinced. She southern trailhead is the Ross museum. Kim passes it to a more experienced colleague who from the museum shows us the displays con- took, shook, looked and returned it with a big taining all sorts of historical photos, artefacts smile while gently giving us the bad news that and models. I am drawn to the miniature it’s fool’s gold – this was graciously accepted models and dioramas. The scale and all the by my companion but I was less convinced. intricate details that replicate the workings of Had we really been fooled by Ross’s golden the goldfield from a time long past is impres- metallic lookalike? Weary and wet we leave sive. Putting my head over the miniature the museum far richer in experiences than buildings I instantly feel like part of yester- day’s gold rush, like a foreman overseeing the mining operation and moving ore carts on rails. We turn to leave and gaze at the replica nugget of Roddy in the room – this gets us excited to discover our own goldfield. We are in luck; the museum hires out gold pans, and our excitement intensifies. Kim gives us a rundown on how to pan in the outside troughs. She offers us two choices; to pan in the confines of the trough or pan for our own riches in a nearby creek. With no dis- cussion between us, as soon as the pans are in our hands we head to the hills to see if we can find Roddy’s mates. ‘Thar’s gold in them thar hills, boy!’ we (half) joke. Struck by gold fever we walk away from the museum. I glance at my prospector buddy – he’s humming that classic, Fever. The decision of where to look for our nuggets is determined quickly as the heavens open up and we look for a sheltered spot. The creek turns out to be overgrown by 8 9 162 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

Stats 33km, Easy/Intermediate (Grade 2–3) Official Links: westcoastwildernesstrail.co.nz Great Rides App: Use App logo and QR Code together

FIORDLAND Routeburn Track Mapping the Route Gary maps the Routeburn Track, one of the more popular and the shortest Great Walk in both the Mt Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks. Words + Photos Gary Patterson 1 164 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

2 collect data quickly, I plan to walk the track 1.The alpine tarns of the Harris Saddle in two parts. Part one will be on the open and the Hollyford Valley ‘ W hat’s your favourite Great section on the eastern Wakatipu side, then 2. Incredible views right from the start Walk?’ That the question a month later complete the western section at the carpark I’m expecting based on my once it reopens. Let’s go! 3. The colours of the river are incredible experience launching the Great Rides App some years Part one starts with a sunny period of river and enter the forest I leave the pesky ago. Yet since there have been so many Great two days. I drive from home at the southern buggers behind and begin to enjoy the sur- Rides and Great Walks built in recent years, can extent of Lake Wakatipu to its opposite end roundings in peace. Encircling me are giant you actually rank greatness? I have two Great at Glenorchy 80km away. There are several beech trees; the base of their trunks terminate Walks left to complete on my mapping quest fantastic walks at the head of the lake in the in searching tentacles that cross the track and to build the Great Hikes App: the Routeburn beautiful Greenstone, Dart and Rees Val- anchor them to the ground. The track so far is and the Milford. I choose the Routeburn next leys, but I am here to map the Routeburn gentle but then I climb into a gorge where the because other trampers tell me the experience so I head up a side valley and park next to a valley tightens, the lighting dims and the river exceeds that of the legendary Milford Track. large modern trailhead interpretation shelter. begins to thunder far below. Then I glimpse Given I have walked neither, I have an open It takes little time for me to sort my gear and the river, which is crystal clear with a hint mind. I’m ready to walk this track on its terms set off. I carry my pack away, which is fortu- of blue in the swirling whitewater currents without considering favourites. On another nate because I think the sandflies would have around large rocks. It is mesmerising. level, I have to walk the track on its terms as carried me if I lingered any longer. Once I it is partly closed after several slips washed cross the suspension bridge over the main Soon the gorge’s grip releases and I spill out out half the track as well as one hut. Keen to onto a river flat where I get my first view of the simply named Routeburn Flats. There is 3 a pretty meadow of grasses on a gentle river bend, the North Branch holds hanging gla- ciers on the highest of peaks, while straight ahead is a massive waterfall letting go over a cliff which somehow the track must navigate. This place is super scenic and a perfect place to stay at the nearby hut before the next climb. However, I do not dilly-dally here as I need to push on. I take a few photos of the hut and campsite, record waypoints and take on board some sustenance before starting the climb towards the Routeburn Falls Hut. The ascent from the flats is immediately steep although it is well benched and wide. I take my time so as to not to tire myself and also to enjoy the elevated views scattered through the wider gaps between tree branches. Finally, the gradient eases and the track begins to sidle towards the next hut. I have visited dozens of Department of Conser- vation (DOC) back-country huts over the years, particularly in the depths of the West Coast’s rainforest. Most are classically cute 4–6 bunk former Forest Service huts com- plete with a basic fireplace, mattresses and heaps of charm. They are simple, non-flashy, wilderness homes-away-from-home. How- ever, what I encounter takes me by surprise. Without warning, tucked into the canopy, are two blocky long treehouses on either side of the track. They are massive. Good grief! 165NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

4 The private lodge is on the left and the DOC cater for many. Yet I wonder whether it’s just Only metres from the hut I exit the bushline Falls Hut is on my right. Never have I seen too much of an imposing elevated building and clamber up the edge of a series of water- a public hut that stands on stilts perched so and whether a smaller footprint with dorms falls to the upper catchment. I’m still on the high above a cliff edge. I have mixed feelings. and communal living space tucked under the track of course. By now the clouds are starting Am I in awe of the technical marvel or should canopy would be more appropriate? I don’t to roll in and drift at my pace as I wander into I consider it awful due to its sheer scale? The resolve my thoughts either way before I stop the alpine gardens. What a walk! The open single-level public hut undoubtedly has fan- to collect waypoints and photos, chat with country is full of alpine orchids, buttercups tastic views over the lower valley and needs to another hiker and continue along my way. and daisies. The natural gateways between rocky tors are a highlight before reaching Lake 5 Harris. No other Great Walk has such a wealth 166 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022 of glacier-carved bowls to explore and I love every spoonful that is being dished up. I reach Harris Saddle. Kea are perched mischievously on the shelter which itself is perched on the hillside overlooking the depths of the Holly- ford Valley. Here I take a waypoint and a short break before continuing. The saddle junction offers a side track to Conical Hill (1515m). My mission is to walk every metre of track for the app so I branch off the main path. It is a steady climb, initially up a staircase before fol- lowing a marked route through the snow and the descending cloud. Every metre I climb is matched by a metre the cloud lowers. I reach the summit with my head in the clouds and my feet in the broken murk. I sit down and peer through the clouds to where I have been and where I am going. It is quiet, still, eerie. The swirling cloud devours the conical peak. My view is now view-free and I am becom- ing cold so I drop back to the main track and follow the Hollyford highline. Here the tra- verse is stunning being just below the cloud

67 and just above the treeline where I mingle with myself for the night. When tomorrow arrives 4. Heading upstream the tough sub-alpine scrub. Down the valley I will return the way I came, as a slip not far following the river rapids I can see out to the Tasman Sea, while up the from where I sleep is being repaired and in a 5. The beauty of alpine valley is a line in the forest which is the Mil- month’s time the track will be fully opened. environment around Lake ford highway near The Divide – a spot I will Mackenzie depart from in part two of my walk. Soon I A month passes and part two of mapping 6. The views up towards the round a corner and see Lake Mackenzie and the route begins. In the last few days I have just heights of the Falls Hut its nearby hut. It sure looks like a beautiful walked the Milford Track after a late season 7. Routeburn Flats hut and place to rest my head, which is still in the opening resulting from the same weather campsite is a magic spot mountains with not a soul in sight. I reach the event that closed the Routeburn. At the west- 8. The Key Summit tarns and hut; it is almost empty and I am blessed with ern end of the Routeburn Track at The Divide, looking towards Lake Marion the luxury of having a separate bunkroom to I prepare for a day walk with my wife to Key Summit tarns from where I will continue 8 167NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

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Stats 33.1km, 2–4 Days Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores onward to the now-familiar Lake Mackenzie meadow. Their crowns and leaf shape resem- between the bays, or out east at Lake Waikare- Hut. After an hour or so climbing from the ble fruit trees and it looks like I could easily be moana being the North’s deepest waterways? carpark, a side track to the tarns is reached. picking plums, peaches or other pip fruit from Like mirrors the tarns on the mountain top these trees rather than making my way along The Tongariro Northern Crossing is unique reflect the views down the Hollyford Valley the track. Onwards and upwards my GPS tells with colourful volcanic grounds, yet the and the mountains that cradle the beauty of me as it draws in a red line of my travels – Heaphy is a good all-rounder and who could Lake Marion. almost joining up with last month’s data at forget the magical Gouland Downs. Lake Mackenzie Hut on the tiny screen’s map. On the main track, I continue beyond The day is stunning, the lake is perfectly calm How about the Whanganui Journey where the tarns. Soon I pass the site of the former and I am unexpectedly greeted by friends boots are swapped for a paddle or is it the Howden Hut that was inundated with rocks from Northland who are staying here the Routeburn Track with the pretty views from from the slip that closed the track earlier in night. After a long chat, I retrace my steps back the Harris Saddle? the year. The area received 1100mm of rainfall to the carpark and my patiently waiting wife. during the storm that closed the Milford and I need not pick a track as a parent won’t Routeburn Tracks for nine months and the The next few months are frantic, breathing favour a child; each Great Walk has a unique Milford highway for six weeks. Approximately the Great Hikes App into life while coming in personality and characteristics that are won- 500 people (including 195 trampers) were and out of Covid-19 level-change lockdowns. derfully wild. evacuated after this storm in Fiordland. Their Yet when the air clears and we are all free to rescue was NZ’s largest aerial evacuation. The fly again I expect to meet lots of Kiwis and 9. Lake Harris – nearly at hut has now been removed and I move on up internationals who will be full of questions. the saddle the hill through the beech forest to Earland Having completed all of New Zealand’s Great 10. Meandering between Falls. The falls are a blast of whitewater. As Walks, I now have an answer to the inevitable rock slabs of the sub-alpine far as a waterfall experience goes this 174 of ‘which is my favourite’. If my oratory skills 169NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022 metre fall is epic in the way that it lands right improve and my memory is slick enough I will beside the track. Boom! While there are many deliver this rhyme which may just do the trick: other Fiordland waterfalls far grander than this, it’s still most impressive given that it’s ‘The finest Great Walk could be Milford with taller than the North Island’s highest – Wair- colossal mountain peaks, or could it be Stewart ere Falls (153m). The water’s impact and the Island’s Rakiura Track … it’s an offshore island spray drift wet the track and it is hard not to retreat! be impressed, and even harder to remain dry. The Paparoa Track is the newby and I’m I continue up, traversing the hillside passing biased since I lent a hand, or there’s Kepler through ‘The Orchard’. Here I find a scatter- Track’s alpine ridgeline where it blows and ing of ribbonwood trees in an open grassy views are grand. Maybe it’s the Abel Tasman which weaves

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SOUTHLAND Stewart Island 1 Land of Glowing Skies There is a certain quietness on Stewart Island – something you feel in your bones. It is as if you’ve dropped back in time to a land covered in virgin rainforest, a habitat for rare birds, and a small fishing village and a lively pub. Words Jane Dove Juneau Photos Jane Dove Juneau or Stewart Island Tourism 2 171NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

Crossing Foveaux Strait for the first time 3 A kākā appeared on the deck railing outside can be intimidating. The stretch of swirled around the hills and a few dozen fish- our backpackers looking around as if quite at water between Bluff (at the bottom of ing boats bobbed on the dark, glassy water. home. The feeling was mutual. The old villa the South Island) and Stewart Island/ The South Sea Hotel sits prominently, if not had a very steep staircase leading up into the Rakiura has a reputation of providing appropriately, at the centre of the beach with heart of the house. To the right was a small one of the wildest ferry rides in New Zealand. the Four Square nearby. Scattered over the kitchen with a wooden bench and a rack over- As the ocean depth is shallow – only 30 metres bushy hills in the bay are the cribs and houses flowing with drying dishes. Two old wobbly – it chops up quickly with wind and swell. On for the 400 or so people who live on Stewart pane windows opened out onto a slightly a rough day mountains of spray are about all Island, plus visitors. overgrown yard. The trees were flourishing, you can see of the ferry crossing the strait. vastly different to the windblown straggly Most of the island is wilderness – forest trees we saw at Colic Bay near Riverton. With this in mind my partner Rick and I or shrubland running from the hills down each took a Sea-Leg tablet before we boarded to bays hiding secluded golden beaches. In The kitchen opened into a living room with the smaller of the two catamarans in the fleet. 2002 Rakiura National Park was opened, a farmhouse style dining table, and a ‘per- Soon after leaving Bluff, swells were looming encompassing a network of former reserves fectly tuned’ guitar hung on the wall. Rows of up in the front window and the captain was and state forest areas – around 85 per cent of yellow National Geographic magazines lined all concentration at the wheel. One or two the island. With only 20km of roads near the the far wall along with another bookshelf passengers were looking pale. I clutched the settlement of Oban, the main way to access stacked with large books. This was a place handrail in between pitches and made my way the island is to hike some of the 300-or-so where people took time to read. to the stern where a row of men were holding kilometres of tracks. It was the lure of hiking on tightly to the side rail, looking ahead for in the wilderness that had drawn us to visit A Spanish couple in the kitchen had scram- the next big wave and riding the waves like Stewart Island. bled eggs cooking ready to fill long crusty surfers as showers of spray rained overhead. bread rolls with hot dogs and egg for a picnic The wind whipped away the diesel fumes, Once docked at the wharf everyone scram- lunch. Our lunch for the next few days might calming my nervous stomach. bled in the luggage bins to find their packs not be quite as hearty as we were heading off amid the pile of bags. Finally, with our packs to walk the Rakiura Track, a three-day hike – The hour-long crossing passed quickly on we walked up the road past the i-SITE, one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. and as we motored in to Halfmoon Bay, mist past several shops and the Department of Conservation (DOC) Visitors Centre up to The inspiration for the walk had come from 4 Bunkers Backpackers. a friend Jane Mitchell who was spending the 5 6 172 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

7 season working for DOC as a hut warden at brought my camera with me in case I saw an 1. A peaceful morning at Halfmoon Bay, Port William, one of the huts on the Rakiura elusive kiwi, but instead the antics of a mis- Stewart Island. Photo: Stewart Island Tourism Track. “This is a leisurely hike suitable for chievous kākā kept me entertained while we 2. Early-morning light at Port William anyone with a moderate level of fitness,” says waited for our order. I guessed that the locals 3. A rimu tree hangs over a pristine stream the DOC brochure. With the promise of star- were the ones wearing T-shirts and shorts 4. A kākā feeds on scavenged food at Oban gazing in the world’s fifth International Dark as the evening cooled to a balmy 10°C. The 5. The hut at Port William sleeps 24 people Sky Sanctuary and the chance to see a kiwi temperatures were cool for summer and in 6. Chalky (left) and Adrian enjoy one of their I was hooked. As there wasn’t a huge eleva- the week leading up to our visit maxed out many chess challenges at Port William tion to climb it looked like one of the easier at 12°C. This caused some stress for a certain 7. North Arm was an important food of the Great Walks, but although I have done member of our party who was missing the hot gathering area for early Māori plenty of day walks, my challenge with this weather, but at latitude 47 degrees south it is 8. Jane Mitchell and Rick stroll along one was to carry a pack with food, sleeping to be expected. Māori Beach bags, clothes and stove for three days. 8 173NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022 Hiking is about keeping the weight down in your pack, so with a lightweight gas stove, pot and dehydrated meals we were off to a good start. Then it’s matter of keeping clothes to a minimum but having a set of dry clothes and warm layers. Rick thought I was strange as I fanatically weighed all my clothes on an old set of cooking scales, but it helped refine my pack. We put all our clothes into plastic bags to protect against rain and improvised a rain cover for our packs out of rubbish bags. After packing and repacking our packs sev- eral times – and adding a camera to mine – we were ready. By now hunger had set in. The choices for dining out in Oban are simple, the pub, Kai Kart and Church Hill Restaurant. We wan- dered around the street to discover a line of people waiting at the Kai Kart. Deciding this must be a positive indicator we ordered – the blue cod and chips was a winner. Luckily I

9 10 Next morning, with our warm clothes on Rakiura. The walk follows the shoreline carrying feathers. packed and Jane on board we bounced along through forest from Lee Bay, past Little A long white sand beach stretched to the in a taxi past Horseshoe Bay, up and over a River along to Māori Beach. Stopping now few hills in the short 5km ($30) ride to the and then to pull a supplejack vine off the bush-covered hills in the distance. Māori start of the Rakiura Hike. It was money well track or remove a fallen branch, Jane kept Bay was a good place to stop for lunch as the spent as we had an 8km hike for the first day. us entertained with stories of Japan and her cloud burned away and the sun came out. At There’s also the option of catching a water taxi adventures in Stewart Island. (Part of the hut the far end of the beach a tannin-coloured to Port William/Potirepo hut for those averse warden’s work is to keep the track clear of stream drained into the blue ocean. Upstream or unable to hike. debris.) I swear Rick slipped a brick into my a swing-bridge crossed the river and the track pack, as I adjusted to the fact this was going to disappeared up into the bush. Strange, I had Jane had just arrived back in New Zealand be my reality for the next few days. Rick and forgotten about my pack. from a ski trip to Japan and was having a Jane bounced along the track as if they were quick cultural adjustment to track clearing Port William is marked by a wharf and the Port William hut is set in a clearing over- 11 looking the bay. Incongruously several large 174 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022 gum trees tower over the foreshore, looking out of place in this scene and likely planted by early inhabitants of the area. Surprisingly this remote section of New Zealand is rich with history. Māori were the first to inhabit the Rakiura Track area over 600 years ago, using seasonal camps for their food gather- ing expeditions. After Europeans arrived the coast was busy with whaling, sealing, mining and the milling of timber. In obscure places in the forest you can still see the well-preserved mechanical skeletons of timber mills, as at Māori Beach. As we arrived at Port William late after- noon we ended up with two mattresses on the top bunk platform accessed by a wooden ladder that appeared tricky to negotiate in the middle of the night. The hut had two bunk- rooms accommodating 24, and there was a campsite nearby for 16 people. Jane had her own small quarters at the end of the hut. People were making dinner in kitchen – some had already eaten. Rick precariously balanced a pot of water on top of our small gas stove to heat our gourmet teriyaki chicken dinner. This is the way to cook – add water

and voilà, it’s ready, tasting surprisingly good THINGS TO DO: after the day’s walk. Rakiura Track – this three-day walk must be booked in advance through the DOC website as the hut Wrapped up for the cold, two men sat spaces sell out. North West Circuit is a 10–12-day hike or the Southern Circuit a 6–9-day hike; both are for outside on a bench staring intently at a experienced/well-equipped hikers only. chessboard. With dusk approaching, one of the players gazed out into the bay where the There are a range of short day hikes from Oban – for different fitness levels and abilities – where one dark bush-covered hills were outlined by the can enjoy bush, birds and scenery. silver ocean. Kiwi spotting and looking at the stars is the usual evening pastime at Port Wil- Ulva Island – is predator-free island sanctuary just a 10-minute boat ride from Golden Bay and is open to liam, that’s if you can keep awake long enough the public for viewing rare native birds. The island can be accessed by a ferry, private tours or water taxi. as it doesn’t get dark until around 10pm in summer. Ruggedy Range – one of the wilderness tour operators offers bird watching, flora, ecology and conservation tours, photography tours, boat cruises and guided sea kayaking. Furhana’s tours include I had my adventures in the night finding close encounters with rare/endangered birds such as kiwi, and visits to primeval rain forests. my way outside in the dark then climbing Visit ruggedyrange.com for more information. back up the ladder to the bunk and sticking my head into the ceiling. Damn. About 5am Cruises and fishing – a range of operators offer cruises and excursions around Stewart Island. Rick saw the long beak shape and head of a Visit Stewartisland.co.nz for more information, see also hunting and diving. kiwi silhouetted in the moonlight along the path to the loo. Rakiura Museum – the Bunkhouse Theatre, A Local’s Tail and Rakiura Jade will each add to your Stewart Island experience. “It was unmistakable,” he said as he rustled back into his sleeping bag. Accommodation – For all the accommodation, including Budget, Hosted, self-catering, Hotel, motel and lodge visit www.stewartisland.co.nz/accommodation/ 9. Rick and I pass under Te Puka the anchor stone, marking the start of the Rakiura Track 10. The remains of the Māori Beach sawmill 11. A water taxi comes from Oban to the Port William wharf 175NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

12 Outside on the deck was a row of muddy her a big welcome hug. Mel lost her way after figure out how to do things differently.” boots, evidence of what was to come. Mud, skirting one of the mud sections. Terrified of Rick and I wandered down to the old and lots of it. The 6-hour 13km walk across being lost Mel stopped and decided to try and this section of the island to North Arm passed retrace her steps, tying pieces of material to wooden pub to meet a crew from the walk for through regenerating podocarp forest, along trees so she could see where she had been. dinner. Historical photos covered the walls in with sections of dense virgin forest. The After one-and-a-half hours she found the the lobby, and in the bar, worn brown leather track was not as well formed as the first day, track but it was almost dark. The last couple sofas bulged with people. After a yeasty IPA and although it gained only 200m elevation, of hours she walked with her headlamp. and a dish of mouth-watering baked blue cod, the track went up and down frequently. We Traumatised by her experience she was up at I listened to the gravel voice of Friday banging hiked past tall rimus stretching skywards with 6.30am getting ready for the walk out. out a Johnny Cash song on guitar accompa- gardens of crown ferns dotted beneath. The nied by Kath on piano – Folsom Prison Blues, forest is reasonably open with lush sections of The last day I bounced down the track ready Walk the Line, Ring of Fire – the packed bar what I call ‘nature’s garden’, scenes so perfect for the final 13km to Oban, around the Pat- clapped loudly edging the group to new that only nature could recreate. erson Inlet. The undulating trail meandered levels. Rick had a guitar thrust into his hand through kāmahi and thick-barked rimu trees and joined the band. Our taxi-come-boat Rick became interested in ‘mud puzzles’ – under a luxurious carpet of crown ferns, with driver was playing the clarinet. A well-lubri- figuring out how to navigate around sections glimpses into secluded bays. On a grassy knoll cated male dancer emerged from the crowd of the track that were wet, boggy and among at Kaipipi Bay Rick heated the billy for noodle inspired by Sweet Caroline and entertained tangled tree roots, without getting wet feet. soup, after which we plunged into the cold, the patrons with arms/hips rocking in time With up to 70 people a day walking the Rak- salty ocean. The last section of track was along to the beat. iura, in some places long sections of track the remains of an old stone road connecting became a quagmire. Our progress was slowed Halfmoon Bay to Kaipipi Bay. It was once the Stewart Island is a part of New Zealand that but it was worth taking time as neither of us busiest road on the island and used by more has seen little influence of change, with the wanted to take a dive in the mud. We passed than 100 people during the peak of milling at majority of the island still in virgin rainforest. a muddy tired lady who looked like I felt, so Kaipipi Bay, between 1861 and 1926. Evidence of past logging and milling oper- when I spotted North Arm hut I let out a big ations, now overgrown, appear in the forest ‘yahoo’ knowing she’d hear me. Back at our backpackers in Oban, our small occasionally like old steel steampunk crea- attic room had crisp white sheets, an arch tures of an alien world. The hardy people that The newer North Arm hut is nestled in the shaped push-up window – old-world charm inhabit this island are down to earth and full low bush overlooking the bay and comfort- in a comfortable homely way. Canadian Liz, of character. The locals are no doubt happy ably accommodates 18 hikers for the night. the lodge manager, was listening to a podcast when all the seasonal tourists disappear off Almost asleep about 10pm I remembered with an earphone hanging out one ear while their island and all that remains is peace and one girl, Mel, who hadn’t arrived from Port rolling out pasta dough. quiet. William. Maybe she had changed her plans I muttered to Rick. “I love the very slow pace of life,” said Liz. 12. A peaceful morning at Halfmoon Bay, “Nothing is going anywhere fast. The small Stewart Island In the morning I was pleased to see that community rely on themselves to get things she had arrived, but not until 10.30pm. I gave done. If it happens it happens. If not they’ll 176 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

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