NZToday-Collectors Edition Walks and Cycle Trails 2022

the main Pakihi Track build, the track had 11 10-11. Pakihi Track (Studio Zag) been severely damaged, and the Motu Road, and later the Waioeka gorge, instead became along the Pakihi Track. But if you pack a More Info the main travelling route. For 50 years, the sleeping bag and food, the DOC hut is a clas- For information and maps visit Pakihi slipped into mossy obscurity. sic old-style forest service hut with bunks for www.motutrails.co.nz — the A-Z of services six and an enclosed veranda. It’s not flash but section has details of all the businesses Roll forward into the 1970s; with increased it’s a very special location and only costs $5 mentioned in this article. Or contact Ōpōtiki hunting and recreational tramping, there per person. At the end of the track, you can i-SITE on 07 315 3031 or Gisborne i-SITE on was fresh energy into getting Pakihi Track make a 1km detour up to Weka Wilds, where 06 867 2000. A Motu Trails brochure can be usable. By the early 1990s, mountain bikers accommodation options include a refur- mailed free to any address in New Zealand, had entered the frame and were also helping bished cabin built by Barry Crump. just email [email protected] with your trackwork efforts. Nothing is ever certain in postal address. the Pakihi valley, however, and in the early RERE FALLS TRAIL 2000s a series of cyclones blitzed the track. 49NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022 Pakihi looked to be properly consigned to The on-road Rere Falls Trail is classed as a memory. But the creation of Ngā Haerenga, Heartland Ride. This ride (or drive) takes The New Zealand Cycle Trail in 2010 led to you between Matawai and Gisborne, 100km, funding for DOC to spend 18 months in mostly on quiet roads and including 27km of reopening the Pakihi Track. hilly back-country gravel road. While the track is now well formed and Just like Motu Road, Rere Falls Trail has simplified by 25 bridges, the wider terrain a lot of up and down. It’s wonderful terrain, remains as demanding as ever. Pakihi must with patches of forested DOC reserve and big rate as one of the most dynamic tracks in the high-country farms, then closer to Gisborne, country, with shingle slides, windfalls and vineyards and horticulture. Eastwoodhill slips all being commonplace. But there is a Arboretum is the National Arboretum of committed maintenance team, run by Motu New Zealand, with 25km of walking trails. Trails Charitable Trust, with track work hap- Rere Falls and Rere Rockslide are also well pening most weeks November–May, and worth a stop. every few weeks at other times of the year. If you want more distance, by linking Rere For cyclists, the riding direction is one way Falls Trail with Motu Road and (if you want) only starting from Motu Road (walkers can go other local gravel roads, you can easily create both directions). You start the track at about awesome adventure rides of several hundred 600m altitude, and drop through forest that’s kilometres. You could even dial up the chal- predominantly kāmahi, tawa, with rimu, lenge further, and do the Kopiko Aotearoa rewarewa, miro and more. Tree ferns, ferns course, 1070km from East Cape to Taranaki’s and mosses are everywhere. Along the lower Cape Egmont! half of the 20km track, you’re following the stunning Pakihi stream, so the soundtrack of water is always tinkling, gushing, or after heavy rain, roaring. Because the hills are so steep, you always have a bank on one side and a drop-off on the other. In places the drop-off is near vertical, usually four to eight metres or more. In some sections, you’ll encounter rocks or gravel piles on the track. As a result, the Pakihi is a track to be treated with great respect. You must have good riding skills, keep speed down and take care all the way. Hop off and walk where appropriate. Ride this way and you will be rewarded by a magical journey. Transport up to the drop-offs is available with Motu Trails Hire and Shuttle and with Motu Trails Limited (both Ōpōtiki) and with Cycle Gisborne (Gisborne). Minimum group sizes always apply. Usually, drop-offs are made to a shelter high on Motu Road. Be aware that if you are arranging your own transport, a 4WD vehicle is recommended for Motu Road. If you’re walking or running, you can drive the 35 minutes/24km from Ōpōtiki to Pakihi Road end and park. There is 9km of narrow gravel road but it’s well formed. There’s no full service accommodation

The last year has been a successful one for Cycle Gisborne in 2010. They now have a fleet Rere Falls Trail, with two more accommoda- of bikes and run guided and freedom cycle tion providers opening their doors to cyclists. tours all year. This makes it easy to plan a trip with regular stops and get an excellent sense of the area. Starting at the Matawai end of Rere Falls Trail, Matawai Camp and Store has handy cabins plus tasty food options. Twenty kilo- metres along the trail, Te Wera Homestead is another popular stop, with homemade meals. Another 20km, close to Rere Rock- slide, Mokonui Farmstay recently opened for guests, again serving homemade meals on arrangement. Closer to Gisborne, Eastwoodhill Arbo- retum offers bunk room and tourist flat accommodation, as well as arboretum walks and tours. Then it’s on to Naurea Homestead, a magnificent historic building, again offering excellent dining, and in Gisborne CBD the impressive and welcoming Portside Hotel. Again, all these businesses are official part- ners to the trails; they support the trails so it’s great if trail users support them. A simple solution to arrange your Rere Falls Trail or/and Motu Trails ride is to talk to Cycle Gisborne, who offer guided and self- guided tours from two hours to many days. Katrina and business partner Anelia launched Independent and supported tours Motu and Rere Falls Trails, Raukumara Traverse and more! Cycle Hire, Cycle Tours & More… 06 9277021 | [email protected] [email protected] www.cyclegisborne.com 50 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

Be Set Free with all the right information Discover superb riding and walking on Motu Trails, Rere Falls Trail and other trails. A great place to start your planning is with free Motu Trails brochures, which are produced by Motu Trails Charitable Trust and give you information about Official Partner accommodation, services and tours with operators who support the trails; as well as a large fold-out map. We can post brochures free to any address in New Zealand, just email [email protected] or Facebook message us on Motu Trails Cycleway. You’ll also find information, photos and maps at motutrails.co.nz. Get in touch, we’re here to help you get the best from the trails. www.motutrails.co.nz Motu Trails Cycleway

HAWKE’S BAY Lake Waikaremoana Track Losing Track ofTime Gary maps the Lake Waikaremoana Track, the less-known Great Walk that makes a semi- circuit around this elevated waterway. Story + Photos Gary Patterson 1 2 52 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

H ave you ever had the desire to retrace 3 opposite shore I relax, leaving the morning’s the footsteps of your youth? To visit a from an early start from Rotorua but once tension embedded in the beach with all my place that makes you feel as if you’re my pack is on I find my stride. I march off to scuff marks looking like a lumpy court after going back in time to when the future hopefully reach a water taxi before it departs. a beach volleyball game. was bright, but the way was as dark I have yet to see a pickup point but I do see the as an unlit midnight path? For me, it is hard taxi zipping away on the lake without me. The It’s windy, and as the boat cuts through the to imagine a quarter of a century has passed map I was using was possibly old or maybe water the chop smacks against the hull, which since I took my first ever multi-day tramp at the taxi stand is incorrectly marked (can a sports a faded Department of Conservation Lake Waikaremoana. That was a time when cartographer be geographically challenged?), logo. The former national park was part of a I was writing university cartography essays either way, that is my boat … but I am not on recent treaty settlement for Ngāi Tῡhoe. It is by typewriter, and mobile apps – which my it. A brief thought comes to me, is hailing a now under their guardianship and includes career now relies on – were still decades away. water taxi the same as getting one from the the lands of Te Urewera which, in a world-first, Sometimes I lose track of time. However, today, street-side. As the water taxi becomes more have been granted the legal rights of a person. work has returned me to the lake, the site of distant my crazy-man dance intensifies – The iwi has plans to redesign the experience my first hike. Here I can use the mapping skills hey, there ain’t any city folk watching me out of this Great Walk to reflect their stories. I I learnt during my studies, to write content here! As I jump and dance around I hope the look forward to a time when I can return for the Great Hikes App while still clocking captain might opportunely glance sideways again to see how their culture is embodied up the miles exploring one of our country’s and see a shore-side clown. I am in luck. within the walk that I am about to retrace. greatest walks. My circus act pays off and the boat makes a Soon the roar of the boat’s motor eases as we wide arc into my bay. I’m relieved I’m judged arrive in a small cove at the south-eastern I remember little about that drive south a sane enough to pick up. As we depart for the corner of the lake. I hop off, thank the driver long time ago. What I do remember is driv- and begin lugging my pack to the carpark and ing with friends and my wife-to-be, along the awaiting trailhead. I am surrounded by 100km of gravel road over windy, moun- forest not people here, but I am sure to meet tainous passes to reach the lake. Some things some walkers soon given the stacked carpark. (the gravel road) remain unchanged. Also I pause only briefly in the carpark to turn on unchanged is the vast tract of virgin forest my three GPS units that will gather data for that circles the lake which is perched 600 the Great Hikes App, before heading up into metres up in the Te Urewera ranges. Today the hills of the Te Urewera ranges. the weather is fine and clear; however, there is a mean-looking heavy rain warning in three days that is sure to affect the track’s walkabil- ity. Given the forecast and my schedule to complete three of the North Island’s Great Walks, I decide on a brief two-day trip of the entire track not something recommended for the relaxed recreationalist. The day before, my plans remain fluid (I got rained out on the Tongariro) and it is too late now to book a water taxi. Crossing my fingers I park up at the northern end of the lake. I’m a little tired 1. Reaching the top of the track on Panekiri Bluff 2. Crossing one of many suspension bridges along the shoreline 3. Overlooking the survey point and Panekiri Bluff 4. Wild and windy on the 4 edge of the escarpment 53NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

5 I say up because that is exactly what it is. vast space of wilderness. What a sight! Below not recall his name but I will call him Geo, Tackling the track from this end of the lake me is the entire star-shaped lake surrounded as he is on a geological fieldtrip. After intro- means climbing to the track’s highest point by a universe of dark forest. Yet behind me is ductions that I have forgotten, Geo begins to on the first day. It is a decent climb to 1180 an earthly civilisation complete with pock- explain the origins of these layered features. metres above the distant Hawke’s Bay, which ets of farmland and homesteads extending He has a knack for sharing his knowledge can be seen far to the east through the wiry past Wairoa before terminating at the end of simply and informs me that what I see in this branches. While many would find the climb Māhia Peninsula – the home to the launch landmass was formed long ago underwater steep and tough I find it fascinating partic- pads of Rocket Lab. Up high and on the fron- in a shallow warm sea. Alternating layers of ularly near the top in the cloud forest. The tier of wilderness, I stand alone at the gateway sandstones and siltstones settled in the seabed track seems to make its way up the edge of to the heavens. The wind is on my face as I after ancient landslides, with the coarser sand Panekiri Bluff – a razor edge-like escarpment close my eyes and dream of flying. grains settling quicker than the lighter silts. that drops near vertically into the lake half a Thus the two different types of rock layers kilometre below. Finally I reach a side trail. This is where I have my first encounter; it is formed. Over geological time the area was Although not signposted, I remember from no alien but a fellow tramper. I’m okay with uplifted out of the sea and what I see now as my youth that there is an epic outlook just that. At first I do not see him as he pops out alternating bands of bedrock that make up beyond. I take the trail out of the cloud forest, of a hole like a hobbit having been sheltering the massive escarpment was once the seabed. past a dead-spar skeletal forest towards the from the wind. He is in a trance-like state, I leave Geo, his rock hammer and the whis- rocky precipice. Before I see the view I feel the being transfixed on the otherworldly rock tling wind behind having become a little wiser draught of wind near the edge … the edge of a strata formations around us. He is fascinated about the seabed below my feet. 54 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022 by something which draws my attention. I do

Onwards I trek to reach the first hut just and pack packed I head off around the lake. 5. Korokoro Falls are after lunchtime. Years ago I had stayed in From here the track hugs the weaving shore- simply beautiful this hut, and like me now, it too is looking a line never venturing far from its embrace. The 6. Waiopaoa Hut tucked bit tired and rundown. I have heard the iwi only exception is when I reach a little bay in into the forest just back is starting to develop a vision to refresh and the first hour of my morning’s walk which from the beach transform some of these huts to impart their leads to Korokoro Falls. I take the side trail culture. This sounds exciting and I am keen to return to see these changes. I stop here for 6 a brief bite and watch the lake while being blown about by the wind’s force. Moving out of the wind and back into the forest it becomes clear why this hut right beside a trig site has no campsites. The track from here continues along the escarpment edge before dropping swiftly via a series of staircases down to Waiopaoa Hut – my first night’s stay. This hut is idyllic, as it sits on the waterfront where the white pumice sands drop into a shallow bay. I am greeted by a couple of families with adults sunbathing on the grass lawn and I can hear the joyful sounds of children at play not far away. It is the perfect place to relax, have a refreshing swim, watch family members toast marshmallows over the outside fire before bunking down for the night in preparation for tomorrow’s big day. I am up early. It’s still a little dark but most people here are up as well in order to make the most of their day. With muesli munched 55NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

partly because I cannot remember the falls before reaching Waiharuru Hut. This large a long day of over 30+km of track and side from my last visit and also because I need to hut also sits beside the water. I take more trails I reach a menacing and unexpected collect all track data for the App. I drop my photos before inhaling a late lunch. The climb. At first, I think I have taken a detour pack at the junction and follow up beside a lake is calm and seems timeless, yet this is or a side track, as it climbs 130 metres via stream, then ford its waters using a wire cable far from the truth. The lake, whose Māori switchbacks. The panting, sweating and for balance before hearing the falling water. name means the ‘sea of rippling waters’, is a grunting finally abate and drop just as fast as What a sight! While it’s not the tallest (Suther- relatively recent phenomenon. Lake Waikare- the ascent, dropping me back to the lake edge. land Falls on Milford Track is outstanding), moana was formed 2200 years as a result of a It wasn’t a mistake. This is the only track. By nor has it great volume like Huka Falls, giant wedge landslide near the current outlet. now I’m beaten – but I only have a short walk Korokoro Falls is simply beautiful. Before The wedge was massive, an 8x4 kilometre slab back to the Hopuruahine carpark. As I drive me is a fine cascade of water that seems to that slid off the mountainside and dammed back to Rotorua on the gravel road I reflect effortlessly drop out of the canopy of green the river catchment; the forest was flooded wearily that most of us encounter unexpected onto the forest floor. It’s a worthwhile side trip and in time the North Island’s deepest lake journeys in life and know how easy it is to lose to observe nature’s beauty in both symmetry was formed. The forest that once sat at the track of time in today’s world. Was my rushed and gracefulness. bottom of the catchment is preserved by the walk a metaphor for life? Re-entering the Te lake’s cool waters. Divers have photographed Urewera forest rekindled fond memories of Onwards I stride, still collecting data and their leafless crowns that still stretch towards my youth, a place to which I am sure I will taking photos at stopping points. I pass a the sky even though they are deep underwa- return, older and slower, and I am sure I will couple of campsites before reaching Marauiti ter harbouring schools of fish between their be enriched again. Lake Waikaremoana will Hut where I take a break. On my last visit limbs rather than swooping birds. remain with me, a place to reflect and recre- we stayed in this hut, its interior painted in ate; it’s one of the North Island’s largest yet a vibrant shade of retro green – I’m glad to Looking up from the lake and down at the less-frequented lakes filled with forest to its see this brilliant feature remains unchanged track pamphlet I can see I need to map one core and culture along its shore. all these years later. I have a snack here more hut before a relatively flat walk out as 7. The white pumice sands of Lake Waikaremoana and continue onward along the shoreline per the elevation profile. Oh, how wrong I through the virgin forest with tree trunks am! While the cute Whanganui Hut is there, as wide as some small back-country huts the flatness is not. Just after the hut and after 7 56 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

Stats 46km, 3–4 days Great Rides App: Use App logo and QR Code together 57NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

58 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

HAWKE’S BAY Trails Navigating Out East The Hawke’s Bay Trails, a trail network of waterways, wetlands and cultural wonders. Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 1 2 59NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

3 4 M āori travelled in waka and navigated influenced by geography; witness my chosen of harbourside al fresco dining puts me in a by the stars to reach the east coast. work path as a cartographer. So it is that I find holiday mood straight away. Although this is Later, Europeans steered tall ships myself in Napier ready to plot a course along no recreational trip, I decide on a slower pace and navigated with sextants, this extensive network of cycle trails, to make to survey this trail. Onto my bike I go. My crossing the globe and making maps for the Great Rides App and to help other first trail companions are not fellow riders but discoveries along this coast. Today, I begin to lifestylers find their way. burly men crossing the path carrying seafood chart the Hawke’s Bay Trails by bicycle and crates off their docked fishing boats. I smile. my navigation tools of choice are three GPS My first discovery takes place upon opening I like how the Great Rides have you crossing units. While transport and navigation methods the car door. Parked at East Pier I’m immedi- paths with people from all walks of life. have changed through the centuries, one ately taken aback by the heat. It is a welcome thing remains constant: the need to find one’s warmth after the cool autumn rides I’m used The path winds its way along the harbour way in life. I consider my life to be strongly to in the deep south I call home. The climate edge where assorted pleasure craft are moored, here seems so idyllic, and the relaxed charm and I enjoy the nautical start to the pathway. 5 60 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

I say ‘path’ because this part of the trail has 6 water hazards, I spy a tall structure off to my a wide concrete surface, so smooth after my became part of the mainland. The trail, which right that I assume is a watchtower for the other recent gravel rides. I feel like I am float- takes me on a little loop around the former airport. As I get closer though, I can see it’s a ing along like the boats bobbing beside me island, is now sitting on the old shoreline. beacon tower for watercraft not aircraft, and on the water. So far the other cyclists I pass I soon spot another beacon located out to the are on upright comfort bikes, and my moun- Leaving Rorookuri Hill behind, the east. In the days before modern navigational tain bike beast feels a little out of place – it so-named ‘Water Ride’ starts to literally aids existed, ships used prominent landmarks is still a little soiled from my last off-road become watery. The high king tide has formed to guide them into the safety of the harbour, adventure – like a pig-dog among pampered puddles that spill across the path from the poodles. I pass under several Norfolk pines neighbouring wetland. While dodging these that provide shade on the Westshore strip and help guide me parallel with the coastline ride. The path passes picnicking families and others soaking up the sun on the grass; the only noises are the gentle waves sloshing up the beach, some gulls cawing overhead, and the hum of my knobbies on the pavement. Soon I reach Bayview and head inland, up to the carpark and the base of Rorookuri Hill. This prominent mound sits alone like a sand- castle on the beach with the tide out, which is not far from the truth. As I ride around this ancient pā site with its midden caches of shells, the geological origins of the hill are slowly revealed. Rorookuri was once an island surrounded by a vast lagoon, but during the Napier earthquake of 1931 the land rose and drained most of the lagoon and the island 7 1. The Westshore strip of Norfolk pines and leisurely riders Get the best cycle experience in New Zealand Call us 2. The celestial star compass sits We offer multiday tours and awesome day tours to the right on the foreshore for info 3. The trail wraps around the best wineries on the best bikes (and yes, we have e-bikes!). & ideas harbourside – a perfect place to both dine or play p: 06 835 9030 | Napier | [email protected] | www.takarotrails.co.nz 4. The beacons dwarf you as you ride past 5. The wildlife hides are portals to views of wetland waterfowl 6. Picking produce right below the trail 7. The celestial star compass sits right beside the trail and ocean 61NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

8 Ph: 06 878 2857 MOB: 0274 969466 AMBER PACIFIC GROUP LTD 62 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

and from the trail I can still see a few tall Blue thought to be one of the most outstanding I start at Roy’s Hill Restoration Area beside Gums (known as the Admiralty Trees) on the pā in the country and I can see why. There are the vineyards. Soon I’m riding past rows of skyline ridge, which were planted in 1878 as fortifications, pits and gardens. The site was bountiful grapevines, all just an arm’s length a navigational aid. In 1907 these natural nav- strategically placed to overlook the area, close from the track. Like the previous day’s trails, igational aids were superseded by the two to the river for navigation and the lagoon for this one too is flat, and the limestone surface beacons that now stand tall beside the trail. food and flax collection. After the short walk, makes for easy riding. With over 20 vine- The beacons were the first of their kind made I’m once more on my bike and I make my yards on or close to the trail, this is a ride of reinforced concrete and used incandescent way upstream. The trail here has lovely twists for those who like pedal-turning and tast- oil burners that were serviced by lighthouse and turns, and at the top end a tavern for a ing. Picking which places to stop, I think, keepers. It is hard to imagine that where I drink before returning via the opposite bank. might be the hardest part of the ride. The am now resting my bike next to one of the At times the track passes orchard workers Gimblett Gravels Winegrowing District is an towers was once, a few generations ago, under who are harvesting apples – and giving me area on the former Ngaruroro River river- a metre of water! friendly waves as they work their rows. Later bed. The presence of the gravels has lowered in the day as I ride on a nearby trail, one of the the water table resulting in a heat sump and Onwards I ride, past the airport and under orchard managers calls me over and offers me micro-climate from the cool sea breezes. I a tall silver birdlife art piece before reaching a sample from one of their trees. They are har- am told that this gives the grapes the ability the Ahuriri Lagoon and a viewing platform vesting a small apple destined for the Asian to thrive and develop their unique flavour. for real wildlife observation. Here in the hide, market. They are sweet and crisp. It is incred- I can attest to the localised heat. As the day I peek through round portholes that look ible how crops are now grown specifically for warms up on the gravels my pedalling slows much like the windows on the side of a ship, a single overseas market and bred for their down – I need to get back to the ocean to get and I quietly watch the waterfowl going about taste preference. After this refreshing bite, I some cool air. Fortunately the Clive to Clif- their day. I’m loving this Water Ride and con- head to the processing shed where whirring ton trail along the Kidnapper Coast should tinue on my way to suburban Taradale. machines transport apples on conveyors, and be a refreshing finale. dexterous staff busily sort and pack these From Taradale, I reach the Puketapu Loop, sweet tasty fruits. 8. The Morris Minors collection is quite a sight a simple circuit of the Puketapu River. The 9. Mini marae features beside the trail ride starts near the Otatara Pā which I take The following day I return to the trail and a quick look at before starting the trail. The decide to give the Wineries Ride a go. This defensive pā is impressive as its elaborate is a large loop of the Gimblett Gravels and terraces work their way up the hillside. It’s 9 63NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

10 Just before I reach Clive (a town, not a before reaching the coastal settlement of per year. Reinforcements arrive in Clifton in guy on a bench!) I stop in at the Waitangi Haumoana. This is a sweet place to have an the way of rock armouring to try and save Regional Park. Here on the foreshore is ice cream, sit on the beach, and enjoy the the road, while some buildings up the coast another culturally significant site. This striking white cliffs of Cape Kidnappers. have had to be relocated. A recent council is the landing place of the Takitimu waka While I am here, I also visit the British Car report suggests a ‘planned retreat’ and they that brought the first Māori inhabitants to Museum – while not much of a car buff are unlikely to fund any future barriers from the area 600–700 years ago. The site is cel- myself, it was hard to bypass a sign claiming this continued onslaught. How this plays ebrated with a large celestial star compass to have ‘the world’s largest collection of Brit- out is anyone’s guess (although it ain’t easy of 32 carved pou which are set in a circle. ish motorcars’. Collector Ian Hope (who has to hold back the ocean) – like most wars, It is designed to educate visitors on tra- sadly passed away recently) welcomed me there are few winners in this environmental ditional navigational techniques used by through the door to view his incredible man- campaign. Māori when they travelled by waka from cave containing all things English motoring. the Pacific Islands to Aotearoa. I am fasci- My particular favourite was Dennis the fire Driving back to Napier I pass some of the nated by the large celestial star compass. As engine as well as the vast number of Morris places I visited on my bike. I am surprised a cartographer, I have never walked inside Minors. It takes some time to walk and view and delighted by how many trailside cafés a compass. It’s surreal to look past the pou the 500 stacked vintage and classic British and open cellar doors have bike racks to cardinal points from the perspective of a cars … a real lifetime’s passion for collecting welcome weary riders. I feel enriched by the compass needle. The site also has cross-cul- that I hope will continue to live on. cultural and historical navigational sites the tural significance; the first mission station trail took me past. I am impressed by the was located here, and a ship offshore from Powering on beyond Haumoana I head quality flat trail that occasionally sent me the park was where local Māori chiefs signed along the coast with the Cape now close. high onto stopbanks that overlook rivers, the Treaty of Waitangi. The smell of the sea and the occasional sand orchards and ocean. My experience of the drifts on the trail give it a real coastal fla- Hawke’s Bay Trails has been an enticing My internal compass now points south- vour. A cluster of holiday homes mark the offering of gentle rides that combine culture, south-west to Clive, a small town where the entrance to Te Awanga and just beyond is the cuisine and cycling. With additional funding trail wraps around the edges before passing trail’s end. I stand and watch both a local and already granted to expand the trail network, a coastal wetland. Here I find some walnut global battle being raged; the telltale signs of I will surely conduct a future expedition to trees that have just dropped their shells; I the damage from the fight are evident. The chart the routes out east. scavenge around and find my handlebar bag Pacific Ocean is on the eastern front while has room for a few handfuls to enjoy later. the shoreline retreats inland. The coastal 10. Rock armouring in Clifton – it’s After crossing the Tukituki River bridge the erosion from sea-level rise has resulted in hard to hold back the ocean trail runs through a beautiful wetland area this stretch of coastline losing 0.3–0.7 metres 64 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

Stats 200km Easiest to Intermediate Trail (Grade 1–3) Great Rides App: Use App logo and QR Code together A new experience whatever path you choose visit hbtrails.nz

WAIKATO Taupo District Kinloch’s Lakeside Loop A new trail connection on the Great Lake Trails has recently opened, so Gary visits near the end of the construction phase of the new loop track. Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 1 66 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

3 2 4 Iam quite fond of Kinloch, a pretty village end. Armed with my GPS units, cameras and continue along the trail which is gentler now on the edge of Lake Taupō. In Gaelic the lunch I leave Kinloch behind and plod my way and heads further inland. As I climb up the settlement’s name means ‘loch end’, and it west. The first part of the trail is on the estab- winding track I ponder whether one can head has a familiar feel to that of Kingston, my lished track constructed a few years back. This ‘more inland’ when just kilometres from the lakeside hometown in the deep south. Both track traverses the lakeside and zigs down to centre of the North Island. Can one travel villages are at one end of a large lake, nestled in cross minor creeks before zagging back to the ‘inland’ if one’s already inland? My thoughts a small forest-lined bay, and populated by just lake. The forest here is a lush green with a low change as I negotiate a traverse above a a few permanent residents. (In the south, we canopy that offers few glimpses of the shoreline precipice on the edge of the stream’s ravine. also have a Kinloch, a small hamlet just down on my left side or to Kinloch behind. Within As I am thinking to myself that I would not the road from Paradise at the northern end of a few minutes I reach the junction of the Ota- like to be a trail builder on this steep rock Lake Wakatipu.) However, while similar there ketake trail and the fresh prints of excavator face, a friendly dog interrupts my thoughts are differences too: whereas in Kingston we have tracks draw me in. This trail is two way and with the vigorous waving of its tail. Beyond a steam train, the only train of steam I see on dual purpose and I start to climb, lost in my this cheerful working dog’s tail, I see a guy my drive from Taupō to the northern Kinloch thoughts, knowing this incomplete trail should on a chainsaw, another using a power barrow are the white puffs of vapour that rise from be deserted and I am unlikely to be surprised and just beyond a mini-excavator lying idle. geothermal pipes. In the south the descent to by any downhill speedsters. our lake is dominated by the construction of I head over to the guy on the chainsaw and residential housing for new commuters who The trail climbs steadily, rising above the lake wave to gain his attention. Flicking up his will soon travel to Queenstown; in contrast, and the Otaketake Stream that it follows. I am visor he greets me with a strong handshake. the descent to Lake Taupō at Kinloch passes a enjoying the opportunity to walk as opposed By the feel of his leathery, callused hand I grand resort for holidaymakers, complete with to my usual mode of riding. The slower pace suspect he has wrestled with this trail for a modern castle-like structure overlooking offers more time to notice the vegetation some time now. It’s morning tea and I bear the loch. So whether it is Kingston’s flyer or changing as it becomes more dense and dark, gifts of bakery goodies – for the team of two Kinloch’s castle … each town is unique and and also to take my time on the twists and turns and a half. We chat while chowing down on ideally located beside a Great Ride of the New as the gradient grows. Without notice, at the custard- and tan squares. Yum! It seems that Zealand Cycle Trail. end of one of these tight twists is a viewpoint. Phil, the chainsaw and excavator operator, Here I take a breather, sit on a rock and take in is an old hand at trail building. This team This is the third time I have visited Kinloch, the view from the lookout. It’s a fine day, perfect and others have been up here for months and each time I endeavoured to map new trails to rest and revel in the scenery. To the east is the now and are just a couple of days away from for the Great Rides App. On previous visits I had edge of Kinloch, straight south is the expanse connecting up the two sections of trail. my bike, but today I will start on what the Scots of Lake Taupō with a backdrop of mountains of call ‘Shanks-naig’ or as we say Shanks’s pony the Central Plateau, while westward is a blanket 1. Coming around the mountain – aka my mighty legs. The purpose of this car- of forest that drapes over the nearby Timber (bennettandslater.co.nz) tography trip is to explore a new section of trail. Trail of the Pureora Forest Park. I sit and gaze 2. A stunning walk along the forest track It forms a loop by leaving the lakeshore and as clouds and time pass by. 3. Cutting through the new trail climbing out of the crater before skirting along 4. The orange earth worksite with views to Kinloch the foreshore to return to the water at the lake’s Eventually, I prise myself off the sunny rock on which I had started taking root, and 67NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

From where we sit they have some of the best views of any Kiwi worksite. They tell me that guided by flagging tape, they craft tens of metres of the trail a day, trimming the scrub, excavating a benched track and then using the power barrow to pack gravel where needed. With the morning’s break over I am guided through the undergrowth for a mere 100 metres or so to reach the existing formed trail. Here I say my goodbyes to these literal trailblazers and continue along their fresh workings. The track continues to climb as it hooks into side creeks before returning to the sunny front faces. Soon I reach a minor road and then a carpark that I am familiar with from my last mapping adventure by bike. Here I am met by my faithful shuttle driver – my wife – with my trusty bike on the back of the car. Leaving Shanks’s pony behind, I am once again on flying wheels. From memory the ride 5 from here on the existing trail is all downhill 6 68 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

to the lake. Turns out it is – Sweet! This part is both placid and peaceful. In this tranquil the Otaketake Loop is now complete. There of the loop is fast and flowing, and on the pre- setting, it is hard to imagine the volcanic is no big ceremony, just the satisfaction of a vious trip I took care to control my speed, not violence that once occurred here. Incompre- job well done, with trail builders and riders only to not be a hazard to other users but also hensible is the day of destruction caused by having smiles as big as Kinloch’s sweeping to ensure the data collection from my GPS a pyroclastic flow 200 metres tall. Two hun- bay. Kinloch seems the perfect base for this units could keep up, accurately recording dred metres TALL … It doesn’t bear thinking intermediate cross-country ride, offering every second I rode. Having already captured about! The most recent eruption 1800 years a few decent climbs, plenty of viewpoints, this data, today I can let loose – I ride to enjoy. ago (thank goodness!) was the world’s largest and forest riding at its best. This section of This part of the trail is a blast, chopping in in the past five millennia – the flow reached the Great Lake Trails offers a good taster that and out of farmland, through a small tunnel 80km/hour – and it’s believed that this was entices riders to go on further and explore the and then entering virgin rainforest. I have no prior to human settlement in New Zealand, other two more-remote sections. For those time to listen out for the namesakes when so fortunately no one was wandering around who want more wilderness, then the Timber I navigate the hairpin corner of Morepork here thinking about getting dinner on when Trail is just a short distance westward. For Gully but I do stop at the bridge over Deep this cataclysm occurred. I have never seen any those who want a more casual ride, then Gorge and peer down into the dark narrow massive geological events unfold before me; Taupō Trails shoots past the Aratiatia Rapids, slot. Gee, that is some deep creek all right! however, my mind boggles at the thought of Huka Falls and the town’s foreshore. For the This gloomy gap brings back memories of trying to outpace a massive wave of super- avid rider the numerous trails of the Craters navigating around the limestone shafts we heated magma. Yikes! Mountain Bike Park is a must. There seems to found while undertaking track survey work be a cluster of cycling possibilities in this land on the Paparoa Track. A few pedal strokes after leaving the look- far inland … and as a rider, there seems to be out sees me quickly reach the saddle. From a lot to love about #LoveTaupō. A few minutes pass and the track gradi- there it is a short descent down a rough, wide ent eases, and I can hear the lapping waters track – the lake views are just a blur. I pass 5. Having a break at the lookout of Kawakawa Bay spilling onto its gravelly a few walkers, wheelers and weekend war- overlooking Lake Taupō shores. I stop briefly to take photos of the riors. The latter are a group with all the gears 6. Chilling with mates above Kawakawa shelter for the Great Rides App before return- who run up this hill at nearly the pace of my Bay (Destination Great Lake Taupō) ing to the bike and starting the ascent over the descent! Soon the trail levels out and scoops headland. The climb is steadily steep as it fol- into side creeks before popping out again near lows a gut before a switchback up the hillside the lake. Onwards I ride to reach the shoreline to a prominent rock. The rock has another at one end of Whangamata Bay, the beautiful fabulous outlook. Beside me is a craggy head- beach with lines of poplars that welcome me land that is popular with climbers. Below and back into Kinloch. to the west the hue of forest green is broken only by the blue waters of the lake. The lake After returning home to the southern lakes, a few weeks pass before I hear that Stats 36km loop, Intermediate (Grade 3) Great Rides App: App Store or Play Store 69NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

CENTRAL PLATEAU Taupō 1 The Goldilocks Waters A big day out looping the falls and rapids of the Waikato River plus a peaceful ride along the shores of Lake Taupō Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 2 70 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

3 4 initially slow as the vegetated track is narrow, biggest falls in one go? tight and winding. Soon the trail straightens J ust like Goldilocks testing beds to find and heads along the top of the riverbank near- her preferred softness, my feet found their I start my ride at the Hub – appropriately ing Wairakei, but the straight is only brief as soothing ‘just right’ warm waters beside named as it’s the cycling centre for the river the trail then descends down into a creek the Taupō Trails. Fortunately reaching rides and the access point to the Craters catchment that feels remote. Here steam wafts this natural hot spring along the cycle Mountain Bike Park. In front of me is Four B through the forest as if in some enchanted trail did not involve encountering three At The Hub – this a well-equipped local bike fairy tale. I stop and bend down to touch the bears but instead was rather an enjoyable jour- shop that rents a range of bicycles for all kinds creek’s gentle flow. “Ouch, she’s hot!” I say out ney through the woods on a big ride. Yes, it’s of riders heading out to the bike park or other loud – feeling a little silly that I am surprised going to be a big day, as the 50km Taupō trails rides. The riverside and lakeside rides I will by this fact. I ride on, following the super- consist of riverside loops and a lakefront ride visit today are a mix of easy to intermediate hot waters upstream through the scrub and forming a network of potential track data for cross-country trails. So Jonny, the owner of onto the main road. Crossing a bridge I am the Great Rides App. I need to capture this data Four B At The Hub, meets me in the early instantly taken aback by the massive pipes on my bike-mounted GPSs, but doubling back morning and fits me out with a full-suspen- passing under me. Like an outdoor industri- to map for the app will have me completing sion mountain bike – a bit of comfort for the al-scale artwork, they rise vertically upwards an 80 kilometre, eight-hour ride. long day ahead. in unison before plunging back down to convey hot steam to the Wairakei power sta- The idea of riding this trail had been in the Leaving the Hub I turn on the GPS units tion. I soon pass the historic power plant that making for a few years after some riders asked and plot my way north, keen to reach one end just over 50 years ago was only the second for the Taupō track network to be included of the river loop at the dam before the day’s in the world to harness the earth’s geother- as a bonus ride on the app I built. Today I first release of water to the Aratiatia Rapids. mal potential and the first to use wet steam am one pedal stroke closer to fulfilling this The trail start is far from rapid; my pace is for electricity production. I leave the white request. However, this was not going to be all wafting vapour clouds of Wairakei behind work and no play. I couldn’t wait to experi- me as I am about to experience another dra- ence these cycle trails for the first time, to pass matic outpouring of renewable power just a beside the Huka Falls, Aratiatia Rapids and few kilometres downstream. It seems time’s the great lake. What cyclist wouldn’t want to middle hand is turning faster than my ped- ride along our largest lake, longest river and alling. ‘Oh dear! Oh dear! I shall be too late!’ runs through my head. Delays while taking photos and marking waypoints for the app have put me behind time to reach the Arati- atia Dam before the scheduled water release. 1. The river canyons make magic riding 2. People dwarfed by the scale of the Huka Falls 3. 1-2-3 Taupō Bungy! 4. A fitting place to soak tired limbs at the Thermal Spa Park 5. Cycling beside the 5 turbulence of Huka Falls 71NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

6 What is more alarming is that I haven’t yet 7 pedal on. Soon after a couple of hill climbs, I heard the pre-warning dam release siren and I cross the dam. Now I am on the opposite reach an elevated lookout over the river. Here have yet to see the river widen into a lake! A bank of the Waikato River and start to head there are views across to the Wairakei power few minutes pass as I push hard to make it on back upstream – destination Lake Taupō. plant and the prawn park that uses geother- time, and with the river over my right shoul- The trail here is a little rough but enjoyable mal heat to keep these critters warm. Unlike der beginning to widen into a lake, I reach through the forest with the river beside me. me, they seem to have found the perfect the dam walls just in time for the 15 minute The day is starting to warm up too, and at waterhole. After dropping down the terrace spectacle. While I am the only rider, I am not one point I detour to access the river. I con- via a series of switchbacks I pass under the alone here. Beside me are family groups and sider a short dip to cool off. Nope … I test highway bridge to the Huka Falls. They say other visitors leaning over the rail watching the water and admit it’s just too cold for me. I the dam release enormous volumes of water into the relatively dry river canyon. Mere moments later the pool below the dam fills with water and overflows into the rocky gorge before swallowing the riddled honeycomb hollows. Watching the calm blue hue turn into pounding white water is mesmerising and a real highlight at the far end of this trail network. There is power in that water. 72 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

you can hear the falls before you see them, 8 Along the wide promenade, I ride slowly and they are right. I find myself alone at one for me. In the past, back home in Queen- taking care to avoid others who flock to this of the downstream viewing points, but just stown, I have seen some take the plunge on scenic spot. As I turn the corner of the bay a 100 metres upstream of me people crowd bikes. For me, I prefer the safe connection the trail users reduce in number. This is now the viewing platforms, straining for a view of of tread on terra firma. I bike down some the Lion’s Walk and I wave to other cyclists, the gushing water. From where I stand the switchbacks with views of the river canyon ding my bell to alert walkers of my approach people look the size of shrimps compared to and the cantilevered bungy platform which and otherwise ride on carefree between the thundering mass of water that squeezes is now supporting a number of jumpers. I am the bays. I leave Two Mile Bay to then ride through the volcanic chute and into a pool liking this scenic section of trail that drifts through Three Mile, Four Mile then the below. With a quarter of a million litres of along beside the swirling river currents only innovatively named Five Mile Bays – simple water gushing out per second, (per second!) parting company when volcanic canyon walls distance names for each curving cusp of the it is understandable why this is our country’s close in. Like the river, I slowly drift toward shoreline. Did you know that the word ‘mile’ most popular natural attraction. civilisation. comes from an old English term ‘mīl’ which is derived from the Latin term ‘mille passus’ or Away from the crowds and cascading Moments later I reach the river control a thousand paces? As my big day recedes, my waters, I continue to cycle along the Rotary gates which double as a bridge support- cycling pace slows as I reach the outskirts of Ride that is full of surprises. This bit of the ing a continuous flow of vehicular traffic, the lakeside settlement of Waitahanui. Here I trail excites me as I enter a creek canyon and my focus changes from trail hazards to stop and watch the peaceful castings of sev- which becomes a lofty steep-sided ravine. social interactions. It is a refreshing contrast eral lakeside anglers as I save the data on the In a moment it consumes me before spitting and I embrace it in full by posing in front GPS units. me back out onto the river terrace like some of the #LoveTaupo human-sized hashtag discarded cherry pit. This is cross-country sign which sits just above the beach. I have It’s been an enjoyable day on the bike fol- riding at its greatest; however, the best is yet some challenges. The full text of the sign lowing our country’s greatest waterways. The to come! The trail forks just past a climbing is long thus hard to take the obligatory trail network I encountered here is diverse; track and the one-way trail suddenly drops, selfie for social media, and picture-perfect twisty yet wide, quiet yet quite popular and so I let Jonny’s bike loose and hang on tight timing is needed not to photobomb others. never far from a bridge joining the loops to the reins. What an exhilarating narrow I approach some tourists standing nearby together. As I return the hire bike via the gulch. Plummeting down the trail eats me up and ask them to take a photo of me. English redwoods, weariness sets in. I don’t think it again, swoops me through a series of dramatic is obviously not their first language; things will matter if tonight’s motel bed is too hard, turns deep into the bowels of the earth before get lost in translation and they kindly too soft or just right. I will sleep well after this rocketing me out onto the flats at the loveliest posed for me in front of the hashtag. Not journey where I found an idyllic hot spring of clear springs. Still panting from this wild, quite what I had in mind. Funny though. and captured data through a fairy-tale forest bucking ride I get some recovery time on this I try again with an elderly gentleman, but which was an absolute joy to bear. wide, flat path that gently follows the spring my idea to ride beside the text doesn’t guiding me to the Thermal Spa Park. work as I am already out of the picture 6. My ETA is now at the #LoveTaupo sign frame before his finger pushes the button. 7. Taking a spin beside the trail on the Huka Falls Jet Looking over at the Thermal Spa Park, I Finally, I succeed with some social media 8. Industrial artwork on a grand scale get a sense that it is a wonderful oasis for the savvy mums out walking with strollers who community. My eyes follow the flow of the hot successfully take a couple of photos that are 73NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022 stream that cascades down the hillside into worthy of posting. I find that this human- a series of bathing pools before flowing into sized hashtag is a good way of being social the Waikato River. I can see that the recently while making social media. refurbished Spa Park has been sympatheti- cally designed with a modern changing area and toilets, deck platforms and landscaped rocky outcrops with lush plantings. I observe locals and tourists quietly mingling between the private nooks along the water’s edge while others relax in the pools, some of which are fed by the hot steaming waterfall. I drop down the hill and test the waters near the bridge – some enjoy it but for me it’s too hot. Gold- ilocks! Then I cross the bridge and reach the outlet where others swim in the cold river. Going just a few paces upstream I test the waters and find it is just right to rest my weary legs in. With the quiet background chatter and the sound of splattering and falling water, I could have easily drifted off here, my feet dangling in the warm stream and the rest of my body sprawled on the bank in restful bliss. Reluctantly I drag myself away from this paradise and continue upstream to drop into Taupō Bungy – not literally dropping though! I wait, but it is lunchtime so no one is jumping

CENTRAL PLATEAU Tongariro A start with a blast Gary maps the Tongariro Northern Circuit on the Central Plateau and is fascinated by this multi-day Great Walk, one like no other premier tramping experience. Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 1 74 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

2 high point and see … no signs of an eruption. the 360 degree view reveals volcanic splen- Was it an earthquake I missed while walk- dour everywhere I look. Up here the larger M y volcanic great walk starts with an ing? After a few moments, I conclude it must and higher explosive crater lake sits below Mt alarming loud blast. It all happened have been an avalanche on Mt Ruapehu, on Ngauruhoe, while the lower lake has Mt Rua- a few days ago when I was mapping a massive scale. Although I am 10km from pehu as its backdrop. The massive mountain the Tongariro Northern Circuit Ruapehu’s crater lake the blast sound was so is still cloaked with winter snow and I can for a free app I am creating for violent that it sent my heart racing. I continue appreciate the avalanches that could careen off the NZ Great Walks. On this trip, the three onward with a greater awareness of nature’s its sides in the warming spring melt. I spend handheld GPS units that normally sit on my power in this volcanic and alpine landscape. nearly an hour up here watching day-walkers bike’s handlebars are literally handhelds being slowly joining me while the wisps of cloud cupped in my palms. Walking with this handful With my pulse rate now back to normal quickly retreat. makes me look like an exercise nut striding I reach Taranaki Falls. Here I drop my pack along with walkers’ weights. However, I am and scamper down some steep steps to the Back on the main route off the flanks of Mt not in the outdoors for fitness or play. My task base of the waterfall. The falls are super scenic Doom the track’s formation narrows. I find is to walk the loop track anti-clockwise over and drop 20 metres off a volcanic cliff, casting a desolate Middle Earth path that enters a a shorter (but long) two days and collect as a fine spray that fogs my camera lens. I take realm cast for the multi-dayer where I sus- much data as I can for the app. a few snaps anyway and log GPS readings pect most day-walkers will never pass. The before the morning mist clears and I return remoteness washes over me as I follow the It’s nearing the end of spring and I reach the to my pack. Ahead of me is the base of Mt flow of a pretty bubbling spring. After a brief track early. Leaving from the carpark behind Ngauruhoe looking staunch and mysterious visit to a historic shelter, I reach the large and the Chateau Tongariro Hotel the air is brisk; with its top cloaked in cloud. As I reach the modern Waihohonu Hut. The hut’s picture in part due to being up in the sub-alpine alti- junction to Tama Lakes the cloud parts and I window framing the volcanic cone protrud- tudes and in part from the fresh overnight get my first glimpse of its symmetrical cone. It ing out of the beech forest could easily hang snow that blankets the surrounding peaks. is difficult to know if the vapour is clearing or in some fancy nature lodge or city gallery. The weather forecast is perfect and my new clagging. I pick up the pace on the side track Earth Sea Sky gear will keep me warm in this to the lakes as I am so eager to capture photos 1. Reaching the top of the track extreme environment – no other NZ Great of these points of interest before it closes in some 1868 metres up Walk has the entire track above a kilometre on me. It is an easy climb to the semi-circu- 2. Made it to the top overlooking the high. A short walk leads me into a hollow lar lower lake but the best views are beyond Lower Tama Lake and Mt Ruapehu in the track, then … BOOM! The sound of at the upper one. I scramble towards the sky 75NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022 a sonic blast startles me. If it was not for a on the loose tephra rocks. It is a tough race treeless landscape every bird would have fled with the swirling cloud. The slope lessens and skyward. I expect to see a dark column of vol- canic smoke rising so I pick up my pace to a

3 4 Tick a Tongariro Park adventure off your bucket list this spring 5 Explore the natural and cultural wonders of this dual World Heritage Site recognised for both its natural and cultural significance www.nationalpark.co.nz www.tongarirocrossing.org.nz 76 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

Although the hut is welcoming I don’t linger 6 3. A crisp mountain spring coming out of the long. I drop my pack and hike on a side track no food. It is not that he has run out of provi- headwaters of Mt Ngauruhoe 4. The view from the to a freshwater spring with my hands full of sions, it is just that he just decided not to take window from the Waihohonu Hut is breathtaking lunch, GPS units and camera gear. Returning any for this back-country multi-day trip. In 5. The historic Waihohonu Hut, one of the oldest to the hut, I hoist my pack and traverse the addition to a lack of food he also has no map, in the country 6. The view from every part of the southern flank of Mt Ngauruhoe. As I walk I PLB or any clue of his whereabouts. My bewil- circumnavigation of Mt Ngauruhoe is incredible notice how the orange and pink gravels of this derment at his foolishness quickly passes and 7. Taking in the Red Crater and the symmetry of desert landscape are so extreme and devoid my attention now focuses on getting us both Mt Ngauruhoe of life. It’s otherworldly. I love it! A landscape to the hut. After feeding him and lessening his more akin to a planet like Mars than our own, at any moment it seems a Martian rover could easily cross my path. I round a corner and out east I see not a rover but the Desert Road highway; the vast scale gives automobiles the appearance of ants, and laden big rigs become beetles. From this elevation, it’s a crazy juxta- position of volcanic barrens and the remote Kaimanawa Mountains being cut in half by civilisation’s road and power lines network. I continue along my own line that circum- navigates the mountain’s natural symmetry. The afternoon is deadly quiet. I’ve seen only one other soul in the last few hours before I encounter a near-lifeless rock of a man. As I approach him I can see his head keeled in despair. I do not give a meaningless greet- ing but one more pertinent to his weariness and distressed looking state. “Are you ok?” I ask. It takes a moment for him to come to life with a simple “No”. I soon learn that this middle-aged solo trekker from the city has 7 77NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

8 load into my pack, his weakened limp frame starts with Māori mythology spanning from rim and the low point where I would soon manages the normally 20-minute walk in just Māui to the origins of the surrounding join the popular day walk of the Tongariro over an hour. The welcoming view of the hut Maunga. There were administrative matters Alpine Crossing. has him nearly in tears. Later that evening he too, delivered in an upbeat fashion about how shares how he got to a state where he could we might respond to an overnight eruption, My second day’s tramp starts gently by no longer walk, sat down and in a dream-like earthquake or fire. The talk also leaves us with undulating around rock outcrops but soon delirium heard a voice of an angel saying that questions … did the warden’s hippy parents the walls of the steaming crater appear help will come. I have never seen a man so really name him Buffalo, his brother Bison ahead. This is also where my puffing starts spent and ready to meet his maker. It was sad, and his sisters Daisy, Lily and Rose? After and my heart rate climbs in elevation with yet I was happy to be there to help him. his talk, we applaud in appreciation and we the rising grade. My pace is slow and steady retire to bed to rest our tired legs that feel a bit for nearly an hour as I climb the 300 vertical Our hut warden is an entertaining chap. half pulled. The night passes with some vocal metres up to the rim. I pass the guy I helped His evening talk to us visitors is factual, fas- snorers. I am not sure how many hours I have yesterday. Our hut companions gave him cinating, funny. He is an incredible orator slept but I emerge early from the sack ready some food and he is in a good shape to make and his tales have us hanging on every word, to depart. From the hut, I can see the crater it out to the nearest road end. Near the top, sometimes in disbelief. His animated delivery the grade slackens and the Central Crater is 78 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

reached, as is the junction with the Tongariro At the carpark I save my GPS data, switch Alpine Crossing. My early start has secured off the units and take off my boots. The only an empty crater, devoid of people but full of negative discovery of the trip comes as I grandeur. The hole is not unlike a meteor take off my socks to reveal a family of rowdy impact, a round flat pit with steep-sided blisters that has set up camp on my feet; a walls. I cross the crater to map the edge of rider’s blessing to skip these nasty things but Blue Lake before quickly returning as the air they are a walker’s curse. While my atten- starts to condense. In the crater I discover a tion is on my feet I am also deep in thought native mountain buttercup at 1700 metres … about how this volcanic circuit exceeded my life in lifeless environment. It’s a steep climb expectations – what a joy it is to circumnav- up the velvet scarred edge of the Red Crater igate Mt Ngauruhoe and how different this rim. On reaching the track’s highest point track is from other NZ Great Walks. From (1868m) I surveyed the surroundings. To the my other adventures on other Great Walks north is the track’s namesake peak; far out there is a common theme. Most of the walks west protruding out of a blanket of cloud is Mt offer waterways, wild forest, or a wicked pass Taranaki; while Mt Ngauruhoe is only metres to cross … the Tongariro Northern Circuit away with slivers of snow running down the is none of these. It’s a loop of a lifetime, a flanks that I have nearly rounded. voyage through volcanism and also a walk in the exposed wilds. I had a blast. So with a Clouds and the crossing’s first day-walkers grin I leave the plateau and look forward to start to appear. My morning of solitude is sharing the track and the map on the Great broken and I start the descent. I cross the flat Hikes App basin of the Southern Crater and the crowds are really starting to cross my path. I start by 8. The Emerald Lakes have an saying hello to each but eventually revert to unreal looking colour palette a friendly head nod. As I walk I reunite with some of last night’s hut companions, and we chat while we drop off the crater wall. After visiting a soda spring we reach Mangatepopo Hut and stop for lunch. The hut’s silence is broken by our lively banter that is full of sto- ries of our climb, our tiredness and our last night’s snorers. Our walk out from the hut completes the loop with an easy traverse back to the Chateau and civilisation. Stats 43.1km, 3–4 Days Great Rides App: App Store or Play Store

TARANAKI Coastal Walkway Cruising the Coastal Walkway Anyone who enjoys an idle picnic ride beside the water on two wheels should explore the Coastal Walkway in New Plymouth, finds Alex Diethelm. Words Alex Diethelm Photos Alex Diethelm or as credited 1 80 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

2 3 1. Coastal Walkway and the Wind out of the mostly flat landscape like a tooth. Wand. (Rob Tucker) 12.7km. That’s the length of the Coastal At the bottom of the walk I look up and my 2. It’s a short and steep way up Walkway in New Plymouth, a scenic heart beats a little faster. While it’s a short Paritutu Rock pedestrian and biking track beside the climb of only about 20 minutes each way, it’s 3. Climbing Paritutu Rock is short water. Tucked away from the main road, almost vertical and I’m not exactly known but not for the faint of heart the walkway winds along the ocean’s for a steady foot. 4. The views from the top of edge, past surf beaches, and connects coastal Paritutu Rock are amazing on a Taranaki suburbs with the city. It’s a Sunday The first part of the climb heads upstairs fine day family-favourite for locals and visitors to New through some bush. Before long, the stairs Plymouth alike. disappear and all that’s left is a chain to chain for dear life, keeping my eyes on my hold on to. Who’s ever climbed a tree as feet and where I need to step next, while We start our day exploring the Coastal a kid knows that the worst part is getting trying not to look into the abyss. Back on Walkway with an early morning challenge: back down. Paritutu Rock is no different. level ground, I’m relieved. climbing Paritutu Rock. This iconic land- Descending slowly, I’m holding on to the mark is a remnant of a volcano and sticks up The views from the top are absolutely worth the early morning adrenalin kick, though. At about 100m above sea level (the sea is right underneath us), we are treated to panoramic 360° views of the beach, the Tasman Sea, Mount Taranaki and New Plymouth. The morning is clear enough that even Mount Ruapehu’s distant summit is visible on the horizon! 4 81NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

56 Such mountaineering bravery needs to be ride on the walkway, the waves breaking onto much a picnic ride, the pace is slow and rewarded, so we decide to head to Bach on the the beach next to us. It’s the weekend and it steady. The scenic views over the ocean would Beach for a delicious breakfast. The popular feels like all of New Plymouth had the same be far too distracting to ride fast, anyway. The café near the port is located right on the water idea, as the walkway is buzzing with people, concrete path is wide and flat (apart from and looks back towards Paritutu Rock. It’s especially around the two surf clubs. Families some minor hills), attracting walkers, bikers jam-packed but with a lot of luck, we manage armed with bodyboards on their way to play and inline skaters. We even see a surprising to score a table at the window. in the waves, groups of friends sipping coffee number of elderly folk on their mobility at the temporary container bar Paris Plage, scooters making the best of a sunny sum- Before hitting the main part of the Coastal idly watching the passing walkers and bikers. mer’s day. Walkway, we hire a couple of bikes at the Cycle Inn near our hotel. On two wheels, we Riding along the Coastal Walkway is very After cruising along the beach for a while, 7 82 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

8 sure to stay a night or two on the freedom Handy information about the camping site at this awesome location! Coastal Walkway and where to stay 9 Te Rewa Rewa Bridge comes into sight. The We continue on the Coastal Walkway, Coastal Walkway 83m-long bridge resembles a breaking wave passing a BMX racing track of international 12.7km long, from Port Taranaki to or a whale skeleton. Which one you see is standards. After reaching Bell Block Beach, we Bell Block Beach completely up to your imagination. The turn around and ride back on the same track, Take at least half a day to ride the walkway. bridge perfectly frames Mount Taranaki tow- stopping for a delicious coffee and smoothie A full day gives you more freedom for side ering in the background – if he’s not hidden at the Shaker Tin. The friendly owners have trips and coffee breaks. in the clouds – and is a popular photo stop. lovingly converted this adorable retro caravan Bike hire at the Waiwakaiho Beach Reserve into a roll- Cycle Inn, 133 Devon St East, New Plymouth Just off Te Rewa Rewa Bridge is Lake Roto- ing coffee and smoothie mobile. NZ$20 per bike for a full day manu. The lake is popular with kayakers and Accommodation in New Plymouth waterskiers and invites for a refreshing swim Make sure to stop along the way to admire The Metrotel Motel, 22 Gill Street, on a hot summer’s day. If you have a certified New Plymouth self-contained motorhome or caravan, make The Metrotel is a modern motel that’s centrally located only a few minutes’ walk from the Coastal Walkway, restaurants and shops. Parking is free for guests. Campsites • B elt Road Seaside Holiday Park 2 Belt Road, Moturoa, New Plymouth 4310 Near Taranaki Port on the waterfront and about 20 minutes’ walk to the city centre along the Coastal Walkway. • F itzroy Beach Holiday Park 1d Beach Street, Fitzroy, New Plymouth This is New Plymouth’s only campsite at the beach and is pet-friendly (prior to arrangement) • New Plymouth Top 10 29 Princes Street, Fitzroy, New Plymouth The campsite has a swimming pool and playground for children. • Lake Rotomanu Freedom Campsite 130 Clemow Road, Fitzroy, New Plymouth Campsite for CSC vehicles and some few non-certified vehicles, right on the shores of Lake Rotomanu, near Te Rewa Rewa Bridge. the Wind Wand, a fibreglass ‘needle’ poking into the sky and bending in the wind. It was created by artist Len Lye. Not too far off the Wind Wand you can find the Len Lye Centre, housed in one of the most amazing buildings in New Zealand. If you only have time for one thing, you should spend it exploring at least a part of the Coastal Walkway, it’s an absolute must-do when visiting New Plymouth! 5. Chris enjoying his coffee and the ocean views 6. Paris Plage is one of the cafes right at the Coastal Walkway. (Rob Tucker) 7. The famous Te Rewa Rewa Bridge. Mt Taranaki hides in the clouds today 8. Alex on a rental bike 9. Len Lye Centre in one of the most amazing buildings in New Zealand! 10. Chris chatting with the lovely owner of the 10 Shaker Tin while waiting for his coffee 83NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

GET LOST // IN MANAWATŪ WE RECKON YOU SHOULD GET LOST IN MANAWATŪ. NO, REALLY. OUR REGION REWARDS THOSE WHO JUMP RIGHT IN AND LET THE TRACK LEAD THE WAY. IT’S HOW YOU’LL FIND THOSE UNEXPECTED MOMENTS THAT TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY. MANAWATŪ LITERALLY MEANS, ‘HEART STANDING STILL’ SO JUST WAIT UNTIL YOU GET UP INTO THE RUAHINES AND YOU’LL TRULY FEEL THAT LEGEND. WE SAY TAKE THE ALTERNATIVE ROUTE TO UNCOVER SOMETHING NEW, YOU WON’T REGRET IT. ON YOUR Whether you’re a lover of fat wheels or thin, or something in BIKE between, strap on your helmet and shred some epic trails! From off-road adventures to family-friendly tracks, there’s something for all who venture our way, with the added bonus of a beautiful backdrop to your journey. ARAPUKE MOUNTAIN MANAWATŪ HE ARA KOTAHI BIKE PARK CYCLEWAY Get your adrenaline pumping, a If you’re after a multi-day cycleway, A new addition to the city, this epic healthy dose of fresh Manawatū air we’ve got you covered. Zip along riverside pathway winds alongside the and take in the panoramic views the official Manawatū Scenic Route Manawatū River in Palmerston North. at Arapuke Mountain Bike Park. between Mangaweka (on SH1) and You’ll hardly believe that you’re at Nestled on the tops of the Tararua Palmerston North, for a chance to take the heart of the city when you hit this Ranges above the Kahuterawa Valley, in some scenic sights and get to know shared walking and cycling pathway overlooking the city below, this park our friendly locals who serve up kiwi which not only offers stunning views provides some of the best riding in the country hospitality at its best. of the river and city, but also leads you lower North Island. through native bush, past farmland, pā We recommend taking two days to sites and out to Linton Military Camp. Whether you’re a novice or a hard-core savour this trip through rural Manawatū. rider hunting for your next adrenaline A real treat for the eyes, you’ll The star attraction of the walkway is fix, Arapuke offers trails from Grade venture past soaring cliffs near the 194m long He Ara Kotahi Bridge, Two to Six to shred, with more than Mangaweka, the dramatic backdrop of which looks like a fallen Karaka tree 30km of epic trails, jumps and tracks. the Ruahine Ranges, and lush farmland from above. Take a late-night stroll Kahuts Shuttles, operates most along the Pohangina Valley terraces. to see the bridge at its best, as it’s weekends and selected other times cleverly lit to create a feeling of the so you can save your legs for the fun Don’t miss the chance to stop off bridge floating above the river. downhill parts. along the way, to immerse yourself in country life with quirky and quaint Just along from He Ara Kotahi Bridge Best of all, it sits less than 25-minutes’ country cafés and pubs, galleries, you will find the new purpose-built eel drive from the city, so you can wrap up gardens, scenic reserves, swimming feeding platform, a safe haven for Tuna the day with a perfectly brewed pint holes, glow worm caves, picnic areas (eels) along the Manawatū River. Here, from local microbrewery, Brew Union and camping spots all waiting to be you’ll gain an understanding of the and a burger from the best, with prime uncovered along the route. importance of tuna in our waterways angus beef from local farmers at the and traditional cultural practices, as top of the menu. For a helping hand, speak to the team well as the significant mauri (lifeforce) at Awastone who offer a shuttle service of our awa. from Palmerston North to the start of the trail in Mangeweka and can recommend some boutique stays along the way.

TAKE A Lace up your boots and take to the tracks. From overnight HIKE tramps in the Ruahine Ranges, to daytime strolls under the towering tōtaras, we’ve got the lot. So, whatever you’re seeking, it’s time to get amongst the wilderness and see what we’re made of. SLEDGE TRACK RANGIWAHIA FERN WALK HUT TRACK TŌTARA RESERVE At the heart of the scenic In the mighty northern Manawatū This spot has it all on offer. Uncover Kahuterawa Valley lies the Sledge just outside the charming village of some of the region’s most ancient and Track, a walk loved by locals as it offers Āpiti, is the popular 2-3 hour hike up accessible remnants of native bush up a beautiful native environment for to Rangiwahia Hut Track, the perfect within Tōtara Reserve Regional Park, all ages to explore. Think stunning choice for those after a great day offering sweeping views of the Ruahine waterfalls, swimming holes and picnic tramping and the option of a cosy Ranges. Tōtara, matai, rimu, nikau and spots away from the crowds, that’s overnight hut experience too. Just kahikatea trees will tower over you, what makes this scenic track sitting just make sure you book on the DOC guiding the way where you’ll spot outside Palmerston North city a real website to secure your spot. native bird life like tūī, fantails, bellbirds treat. Keep an eye out along the way for and kererū. Don’t forget to stop at the thriving wildlife that call the valley Lose yourself in the incredible vistas the epic lookout point on the upper home, including the kapokapowai, along this well graded track, where terrace! giant bush dragonfly. the stunning arched wooden bridge, deep ravines, red beech forests and This well-maintained walk is a great For more of a challenge, head right enchanting Middle Earth scenery will shorter option with a couple of up to the Elevation (1.5 hours in) and really take your breath away. Your challenging stairs to keep you on your onto the Platinum Mines (3 hours in) final reward? The tussock tops views toes. Park up at the campground at to explore old mineshafts for an extra along the Whanahuia Range. The quiet Tōtara Reserve for great river access spot of history. serenity that trampers seek comes in to explore the area more and go for a strong supply here. late-night trek to the Pohangina Glow Worm Caves. READY TO GET LOST IN MANAWATŪ? To help you on your way, check out our shiny new Manawatū Walking & Cycling Guide on MANAWATUNZ.CO.NZ

MANAWATŪ – Te Āpiti - Manawatū Gorge Track Palmerston North’s 1 hidden gem Take a scenic walk through the Te Āpiti - Manawatū Gorge, travelling from Manawatū to the Tararua District Words + Photos Julia Wells (Department of Conservation) or as credited 2 3 86 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

4 dividing range of mountains (rivers gener- 1. A good place to stop and enjoy the ally start in the mountains), but that is what view (photo – Steve Sutton) P almerston North is home to one of the Manawatū River does. It runs all the way 2. Forest at Te Āpiti - Manawatū Gorge the lower North Island’s fantastic day through the mountains and is one of only a (photo – Steve Sutton) walks. Only 20 minutes from town, few places in the world where this happens. 3. Whātonga sculpture at the junction the Te Āpiti - Manawatū Gorge offers of Te Āpiti - Manawatū Gorge Track excellent walking options, ranging in The river pre-dates the Tararua and Rua- and Tawa Loop (photo – Steve Sutton) length from 15 minutes to five hours. hine ranges. As the mountains were uplifted, 4. Educational displays at Te Āpiti the river continued flowing and eroding the - Manawatū Gorge (photo – Steve The most adventurous walk of the area is growing mountains. This created the deep Sutton) the Te Āpiti - Manawatū Gorge Track. This gorge we know today. track takes you through the length of the 87NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022 gorge, usually taking between three and five hours. It’s well worth the walk – along the way, you’ll enjoy panoramic views of the sur- rounding countryside and the nearby wind farm. The walk is highly rated on TripAdvisor, with 4.5/5 stars from over 160 reviews. If you’re feeling like something shorter, the Tawa Loop Track is a good choice. The two-hour, 4.1km track circles through forest and passes a lookout with excellent views of Palmerston North. This is also a Toyota Kiwi Guardians site, so it’s a great spot for families. You can also get a taste of the gorge area on the 15–30 minute Te Āpiti - Manawatū Gorge Loop Track, starting from the Woodville side. The track is suitable for pushchairs and people of all fitness levels – it’s a great opportunity to enjoy accessible native forest. Keep an eye out for signs about the bush created by students from College Street Normal School in Palm- erston North. The gorge is a geographic marvel. It’s very unusual to have a river pass right through a

The gorge is also notable for its native interpretation panels. A highlight of the difficult to maintain, as the steep-sided hills species. It is the only place in New Zealand track is a 6m tall sculpture of Whātonga, a are very prone to slips. After a particularly where the giant maidenhair fern grows in the chief and explorer on the Kurahaupo waka large slip closed the road in 2017, it was wild. The main forest tree is tawa (a common and the ancestor of Rangitāne. decided that the road in the gorge would North Island tree) and other podocarp spe- not reopen. cies, complemented by red-flowered rātā and A road was built through the gorge by the tropical-looking nīkau palms. 1870s, but it was a dangerous and unpleas- For more information and driving direc- ant journey. It even included a river crossing, tions, visit the Department of Conservation The Māori name for Te Āpiti - Manawatū either on a punt or in a cage and pulley website on www.doc.govt.nz. The tracks can Gorge is Te Āpiti. It was used as a trans- system on a wire above the river. It was clear get slippery in wet weather, so they are best port route by Rangitāne to cross the main that a better option was needed and the rail- walked on dry days. divide, travelling in waka and hauling them way line was opened in 1891. upstream through the rapids. 5. Dawn panorama from Sunrise Hut (photo - Jack Today, you’ll be able to get glimpses of Mace) 6. Walking track at the Te Āpiti - Manawatū The story of Rangitāne and their deep the railway, which still operates as a goods Gorge (photo – Steve Sutton) connection to the land is told through line. The road through the gorge was always 5 TUI BREWERY STATE HIGHWAY 2, MANGATAINOKA ONE AWESOME LOCATION WITHALLYOUR PITSTOP NEEDS. • EXCLUSIVE BEERS & TASTINGS • DAILY BREWERY TOURS • GREAT KIWI TUCKER • FREE HISTUI MUSEUM • SHOP • FUNCTIONS & CONFERENCE SPACES +64 (0) 6 376 0815 | WWW.TUIHQ.CO.NZ 6 88 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

TARARUA TO HAWKE’S BAY Sunrise Hut Danwevnelirkseeyenouit’ve Experience Ruahine Forest Park with a trip to the newly renovated Sunrise Hut. Words Julia Wells (Department of Conservation) Photos Jack Mace (Department of Conservation) or as credited 1 2 89NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

It’s a magical name for a magical place. 3 4 Sunrise Hut perches beside the edge of the open tops. As well as the hut improvements, bush, surrounded by tussock, with a view Sunrise Track itself has also been improved 5 out across Hawke’s Bay. It is best known this year, with more culverts and drains Sunrise Track is accessed from North Block for its spectacular dawn views – the hut added to remove standing water. Road, around 100km from Napier. There are faces east, and its veranda is the perfect place full access directions on the Department of to watch the sun rise over the fields and hills Sunrise Track is the most popular in the Conservation website. Dogs aren’t permitted of Hawke’s Bay. Ruahine Forest Park, and bookings are on the track as the last 4km of road is through required between Labour weekend and private farmland. Sunrise Hut is looking better than ever April 30, which you can make online at www. If you are feeling adventurous and have now, having been renovated during May– doc.govt.nz. At other times of year you don’t lots of warm clothing, you can venture fur- June  2020 by local contractor Forest Hill need to book and can pay by using Depart- ther up the ridge from Sunrise Hut, towards Construction, supported by Jobs for Nature ment of Conservation hut tickets. Armstrong Saddle. The saddle is named after funding. This is the programme that helps Hamish Armstrong, vanished and presumed revitalise communities through nature-based employment and stimulate the economy fol- lowing Covid-19. The hut’s interior has been fully revamped, including a new fire and heat transfer system. The Department of Conservation worked in conjunction with the Backcountry Trust and a community group to paint the hut’s exterior in February this year. The work was carried out by volunteers, and the paint was provided by Dulux as part of their ongoing partnership with the Department. Morning sky-watching is only one of the area’s attractions. Sunrise Track, which leads to the hut, is an accessible walk that’s well suited to families and newer trampers. It takes between one (for the very fast!) and three hours to reach the hut along Sunrise Track, so it’s perfectly possible to visit the hut as a day walk. The track takes you through several differ- ent forest types. You’ll pass stunning trees, including beech, towering kahikatea and rare kaikawaka/mountain cedar. Once you reach the hut, you’ll get a taste of the tussock land- scape that characterises the Ruahine Range’s 1. View from Sunrise Hut at dawn (photo – Jack Mace) 2. Fantail/ pīwakawaka (photo – David Cook Wildlife Photography) 3. New Zealand pigeon/ kererū/ kūkū/ kukupa (photo – David Cook Wildlife) 4. Horopito/ Pepper tree (photo – Margaret Donald, CC BY-SA 2.0) 5. Rimu foliage (photo – pbkwee, CC BY-SA 2.0) 6. Sunrise Hut at dawn (photo – Jack Mace) 7. Juvenile grey warbler/ riroriro (photo – James Mortimer) 90 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

6 dead after his Gypsy Moth plane crashed of Armstrong. Land Safety Code there in 1935. Armstrong was flying from The search continued, but Armstrong was Weather in the Ruahine Forest Park can turn Akitio to Hastings, but he may have lost his bad fast – freezing temperatures and extreme way in the misty weather. never found. The only clue found was a shirt wind are common. There is often snow around labelled XXX – this is what gives Triplex Hut, Sunrise Hut in winter. A major search failed to find Armstrong, which you pass at the start of Sunrise Track, To help yourself have a great time and get but it did locate the plane several weeks later. its unique name. home safe, follow the five simple steps of the Looking at the wreckage, searchers believed Land Safety Code: that Armstrong had kept control of the plane Short on time or looking for something a 1. C hoose the right trip for you while landing and may even have been unin- bit easier? Try the Swamp Track, which starts jured. His suitcase and walking boots were at the same carpark as Sunrise Track. This Learn about the route and make sure you found with the plane, but there was no sign one-hour walk will show you some lovely have the skills for it. beech, rimu and kahikatea forest. 2. U nderstand the weather It can change fast. Check the forecast and change your plans if needed. 3. P ack warm clothes and extra food Prepare for bad weather and an unexpected night out. 4. S hare your plans and take ways to get help Telling a trusted person your trip details and taking a distress beacon can save your life. 5. T ake care of yourself and each other Eat, drink and rest, stick with your group and make decisions together. 7 91NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle Trails Collector’s Edition 2022

1 12 2 3 34 7 45 6 5 98 6 10 sman’s Great Taste Ta Trail l Trail 7 11 8 12 9 10 Otago Central Rai 11 12

E-BIKE GUIDE E-bikes gaining speed T he e-bike revolution is gaining momentum year on year, there is no doubt about that, and events since April 2020 have seen sales explode as the need has grown to entertain ourselves in our own local environments, but the number of bikes had been growing for the two years before this anyway. According to Statistics NZ the number of new e-bikes and e-scooters being imported into New Zealand has increased year on year with 23,000 in 2017, 47,000 in 2018, 65,000 in 2019 and over 50,000 in the first nine months to September 2020 – a cool $62.3m into the economy, and that was over a year ago. Figures from SPARC indicate 30 per cent of New Zealanders ride a bike, with about half of all households having a rideable bike on the property, and 73 million cycling trips were made in 2018. That would have skyrocketed with the huge increase in domestic travel since 2020. E-bikes are fantastic, but they are not right for all NZ Great Ride trails nor for some other off-road trails, so we made sure to features four of the top e-bike rides around the country in this issue. The urban, rural and heartland trails with paths, roads, or boardwalks are more suitable for less-energetic e-bikers perhaps. Here we check out how to choose an e-bike, how they work and why it is important to have a bike appropriate to your body size, physical needs, and proposed end use. We also highlight information from the New Zealand Transport Agency on e-bike use and safety. 93NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle trails Collector’s Edition 2022

E-BIKE GUIDE wEhleecrterticobsitkaerst,? Looking to get a e-bike? This all-you-need-to-know guide will have you sorted when buying an e-bike. Words + images from Bikes & Beyond Auckland WWHERE TO START hat are YOU looking for? If you’re looking to get an e-bike, that’s awesome! This guide is to help you break down the vast number of options available. Electric bikes are filling streets and trails across New Zealand as people switch to electric power, but with so many options, it can be difficult to know where to start. After reading this guide, you will have a better idea of what your perfect electric bike could be, but the best e-bike for you is the one you are most comfortable on, so try as many bikes as you can. This perfect bike is your ‘unicorn’ bike, but as we all know, unicorns are not easy to find, so as a rider you may have to compromise in some areas, but remember that you can easily change the handlebars, tyres and attach a rack or fender. This guide will mainly talk about function rather than design. 94 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle trails Collector’s Edition 2022

What’s gonna be your perfect fit? Step-through Top-bar Pros Pros • Generally, a more upright riding position. • Better for technical riding, for mountain biking, • Easy to mount and dismount from the bike – or a lower position for aerodynamics. • A wider range of bike styles available. very helpful in heavy stop-start traffic. • It can be used with all clothes, even with long and flowing Cons skirts because that’s where the design originated. • Can be more difficult to mount and dismount for cyclists with poorer mobility. Cons • It’s mostly not suitable for complex off-road riding, although the new ones will surprise you with what they can do. • You may need an adapter for your current bike rack (but they’re only $60) – newer e-bike specific bike racks will work. Once you’ve chosen your frame style, you may need to lower the If you think you don’t fit into any of these categories that’s fine too. riding position further as the diagram shows – you can lean forward Riding an electric bike is for everyone, and this is just a guide. or be fully upright, whichever is most comfortable for you. A steeper riding position is better suited for fast, technical riding, while a more The next thing to consider is the price range, a good electric bike upright position will relieve your lower back and arms for a longer ride. will cost you more, but there are still some great budget options. It is Most bikes can be modified to have a slightly different riding position, rare to find an electric bike that we recommend under $2000 as below but they cannot be completely changed. that price the quality of the parts used tends to make it unsafe. Some really cheap bikes will run on lower-quality brakes that will not be able Another key question when choosing a bicycle is what is its purpose to stop the power of the bike. for you? Remember that just because a bike looks like a steel bike, it doesn’t There are three big rider categories but don’t worry if you fit into mean it is – all bike manufacturers try to cut the prices of their budget more than one, many of the bikes do too. options and looks are not always reliable. • Regular commuter (mainly on-road riding and regular use) • Weekend cruiser (a little on- and off-road riding) When buying an electric bike, try to invest a little more to make • T echnical off-road rider (mostly off-road with more it last longer and ride better. We promise that a good electric bike is worth investing in. technical aspects) Regular commuter Weekend cruiser Technical off-road rider 95NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle trails Collector’s Edition 2022

E-BIKE GUIDE Bike breakdown Mid-Drive Hub MOTORS – MID-DRIVE power supply. Mid-drive motors are the best ALL TORQUE!! OR HUB MOTOR? here, responsive, efficient and powerful. The mid-drive allows the motor to make use of the Use the torque rating of an e-bike as a guide E-bike motors are complex electrical systems gearing on your bike and so results in vastly only – brands often quote high torque ratings and have three important specifications: greater efficiency. The position of the mid- but a quick ride will sort the wheat from the position, power, and torque. Newer electric drive engine also provides a lower centre of chaff! A good e-bike should give you good bikes should either have a motor on the rear gravity and better stability. torque the instant you put pressure on the wheel (hub-drive) or in the middle of the pedals. It’s no use having delayed power or transmission attached to the crank pedals Rear-wheel drive motors are a simpler having maximum torque coming on stream (mid-drive). Hub-drive motors (motors in the technology and therefore a good choice for entry- when you are already on the move! wheels) represent a low cost and simple e-bike level bikes and newer rear-wheel drive bikes will solution. However, they are rather inefficient be torque sensing as well. Different motors will The torque of the motor is most important and will not propel you up a steep hill. make an electric bike feel different to ride, so be to the climbing ability of your e-bike. It is sure to try both to see what you prefer. measured in newton metres and is basically Generally, mid-drive engines are nicer the pushing force that the motor has. This is and have higher torque. All the power from Motor power is given in watts. Most motors an important number when distinguishing the drive motor going through the gear will be 250–350 watts depending on brand between different mid-drive engines. For set increases efficiency. Mid-drive motors and source. No Bosch or Shimano motor example, Shimano has several mid-drive measure the force of your pedalling (torque will exceed 250 watts due to EU legislation; engines with the biggest having an additional sensing) and then add the amount of power instead, these brands focus on increasing 20nm torque, which makes it better on assistance, which is what makes them feel torque, to increase speed and endurance climbs. Drive motors tend to have more so smooth – and less demanding on your when climbing slopes. torque without losing assistance smoothness. Move. Explore. Connect. North and South Island Cycle Trail and E-Bike Tours. Since 1992. Book Now: [email protected] | 0800 00 11 66 | adventuresouth.co.nz 96 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle trails Collector’s Edition 2022

Try and stick to these motor brands Often we talk about the different motors as The range is indicated by the capacity given a little old fashioned and results in poorer different tiers, your top tier being the Shimano in watt-hours (Wh) or amp-hours (Ah) – a handling, but folk can get used to this heavier 8000 and the Bosch performance cx. These 10Ah 36V battery is 360Wh – The higher ‘feel’ over time. motors are a high torque and smooth. As you the capacity, generally the greater the range, reduce the price, you tend to lose either torque although budget e-bikes tend to have less or smoothness. Many NZ companies choose efficient motors and compensate for this by high torque motors to help combat the tough adding higher capacity (and heavier) batteries. hills but they end up being less smooth overall. European brands will tend to run motors The bike with the smallest recommendation with less torque as they have lower speed of 10Ah has about one hour of travel time, but restrictions, but those are often very smooth the range depends on the weight of the rider systems. and the amount of assistance used. BATTERY BATTERY POSITION One-third or more of the cost of an e-bike is Aim for an e-bike with a battery positioned as the battery. low in the frame as possible, as this will result in superior ease of handling. Some budget The majority of big bike brands have opted ‘low-step’ e-bikes mount the batteries up high for batteries with 36V. on the rear carrier. This is now considered BFmFbFantuAaisItkaicKlisNletdhyeEmeTocset coAoCmtnmvooOScnlyespllToVoakrenIswssECo,rdetbRy dS # P L AT E the owners of OCD covers. This is because finally CYCLE COVERS  &  RACK SYSTEMS a fully enclosed bike cover is available. No longer 97NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle trails Collector’s Edition 2022 OtheadObonaovaCCddencDyDrowmidytcuyletocoerhavdocbbteienhvirarklusegeeorriarssffpsarerrnenooaaredcdcmserkeekudw,selntiadtightwotrseenhgabnseaneecidsgctaeeimfcznxodreopreordpiomdeeurtsanyroemtcsitondhm.aogTtfbiaodniherttaacyrebonehtiasdektd.ehgesrime, aspllehciafincadtlieonbsaorfsyhoaurpbeisk,ess.izes and rTohteactoiovenrss.are made in NZ for all vehicle types, except small cars, and all rack brands 1a2ndcomvoedredlse. signs to suit all top selling TSpheucliea,ltFyisaemrvmiceas,aBnRd sSoylsutteiomnsseannsudre ElezgiaGl rciopmbpikliaenrcaecwkisth. Slioglhdtsinanddivpidlauteasl,ly ocursatosmramcakkainngdccovoevres,rraccokminbstoasll.ations and electrical. CREATED BY 56b Firth St M 027 291 8106 Matamata P 07 888 6194 3400 ocdcovers.co.nz

E-BIKE GUIDE DRIVE-TRAIN Basically these are your gears. An electric bike will usually tell you how many speeds it has, how many gears you can choose from, and the model of the derailleur (the part that changes your gears). If the bike doesn’t have Shimano or SRAM gears, it can be more difficult to repair them. Drive-train parts often need to be replaced, so stick to well-known brands. To extend the life of your drive-train, check to see if the engine has a gear sensor that will signal the engine to reduce power while shifting gears. Brakes are not technically part of the powertrain, but they follow similar rules. Stick to…………………………………………… These will have spare parts available and will be of better quality to help stop the power of your electric bike. FRAME BUILD Each bike manufacturer will have different build qualities for their bikes. This will affect the stiffness and riding position of the bicycle. To test the frame, you will need to check and rotate it. The strength of the frame determines its torsional rigidity. If a bike flexes too much in the middle when rotational forces are applied it will wear out over time. Better quality bikes will not flex a lot from the middle. A certain amount of flexibility is needed in a frame, but the flex should not be evident on any crucial joints, and the bottom bracket of a bike is your most import- ant as that is where a lot of force is applied. Twisting here shows a lack of torsional rigidity in the frame. Some frames will be reinforced in some places to make them tougher – remember there are lots of forces acting on your bike so they need to be tough. The final part of the frame is the geometry, this is your ride position of the bike and in section two we talked about the different styles. When you look at an electric bike you can often tell its quality just by looking at the parts. A well-built bike will have Where To Buy Your e-bike We all want the best deal, but unfortunately not all places to buy bikes are the same. Buying new is best, as means you can get a warranty and sometimes services included. E-bike specialists will have a larger range of e-bikes and greater experience. When buying second-hand online, keep in mind some can be stolen bikes. Ask yourself, does the seller seem genuine? Always ask if the bike comes with charger, battery and keys. If any of those things are missing, it should be a big alarm that the bike could have been stolen. When buying an e-bike the recommendation is to buy a high-quality lock at the same time: D-locks or high safety rated chains are best. Frame locks are another good option (make sure to grab an extension chain as well if you can). SUPPORT Go with a reliable brand that offers a good support network in New Zealand such as Bosch and Shimano. Budget-conscious brands like Bafang and Dapu seem reliable and support is generally provided by their importers. 98 NZToday RV Lifestyle Walk & Cycle trails Collector’s Edition 2022