RMF-NZToday RV Lifestyle Vol 17

Vol. Heartland Journeys Walk & Cycle Trails Road Trips Reviews 17 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle | JULY-AUG 2022 VOL. 17 JULY-AUG 2022 N WITH CASP TERISLANDER V WI OUCHER Walk & cycle trails AR $500 IN Tora Coastal Walk Gumdiggers • Whangārei • Tora Coastal Walk • Dog parks • Serpentine Church • TrailLite Tour 1 • Laika RV Mega • Show profiles • Jayco Optimum • Rockwood • ACM • Boat RV • Bus rebuild • NZMCA Chch Show Paparoa Track guided hike Whangārei Urban trails, beach and bush walks Lifestyle Road trips Opua to Lyttelton Central Otago Champagne sailing trip 4WD to Serpentine Church Northland Kauri gum history Te Waipounamu 7 dog friendly DOC camps Baby on tour RV MEGA NZMCA Motorhome Show coverage Christchurch abuzz with RVsLaika

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Road Trips, Lifestyles and Destinations CONTENTS VOLUME 17 July-Aug 2022 7 RnR Chronicles – editor Robyn and Bruce (the Rock) share their adventures on the road 12 Northland – Helen takes a drive to Gumdiggers Park at Waiharara, a genuine preserved gum field 31 South Island – sailing from Northland to Lyttelton with stopovers in the Marlborough Sounds 46 Central Otago – Allan Dick heads to the remote Serpentine Church and Buster diggings 54 DOC report – dog parks with DOC – while the majority of National and DOC parks ban dogs, there are a few exceptions 59 TrailLite on Tour – Ashlee Rose and husband, with baby in tow, load up the motorhome for an extended South Island road trip Walk and Cycle Trails RV PETS 18 Northland – Whangārei’s stunning walks, trails and beaches, the Clock Museum and more 24 Wairarapa – Gary maps the Tora Coastal Walk with views over the Pacific Ocean 38 West Coast – regular readers Linda, Bruce and friends on a guided hike of the Paparoa Track Caspar’s Capers RV Industry updates and Profiles WIN $500 72 International updates – John Rawlings with latest news and RV updates 75 Rebuild – converting a 2012 bus to a motorhome, part three INTERISLANDER 80 Italian Laika – new Italian motorhome model arrives at RV Mega in Mt Maunganui FERRY VOUCHER 87 Christchurch – Christchurch motorhome show – spotlights and profiles SEE p104 Regular – Competitions – Marketplace 62 AD Today – have camper will travel, clocking up the road kilometres 68 Road Kai – road recipes and a new cookbook to be won 70 RV Books – latest release books to be won 66 Subscribe – save $s, plus get a free digital edition 97 Marketplace and RV Trade Directories 102 Caspar Capers – be in to win $500 Interislander voucher BOOKS TO BE WON FROM p68



EDITOR’S Letter to Readers ISSN 2703-2477 (Print) ISSN 2703-2485 (Online) Winter has struck NZToday-RV Lifestye Vol 17 July-Aug 2022 B rrr! We are in the grips of a lovely cold Fortunately, as of the last couple of days I can www.rvlifestyle.co.nz snap with half the South Island covered happily share that I am currently pain free and in snow, and some areas down to -10.5 nearly back to normal – whatever that is, right! EDITOR degrees. Definitely need your thermals Robyn Mountain, [email protected] on down there. Glad it wasn’t that cold for the This issue we are all over the country from the ADVERTISING MANAGER motorhome show in May. We were lucky the sunny north checking out the kauri gum history, Bruce Mountain, [email protected] clouds cracked open over that weekend and we and wandering the beautiful Whangārei area, 021 657 090 actually saw some sunshine. walks and trails as well as Claphams National SUB-EDITING & PROOFING Clock Museum. We have been in here a few Thiers Halliwell, Allan Walton I didn’t mention in my editorial last issue, but times, and it is genuinely so interesting. DESIGN Cameron Leggett I had been struck down with shingles the week CONTRIBUTORS Robyn Dallimore, Allan Dick, before going to print. I was hospitalised with Gary walks the private Tora Coastal Walk Richard Longley, Sheryl Bainbridge, Ashlee Rose, the pain, which arrived five days before a rash in the Wairarapa, while readers Linda and DOC Ruth McKie, Gary Patterson, John Rawlings, appeared from mid-back to mid-stomach. A Bruce share a guided multi-day hike on the Helen Yuretich long, painful, drawn out 10 weeks later I have Paparoa track on the West Coast. Allan takes COVER PHOTO BY: Tora Coastal Walk just experienced my first pain-free day this last the campervan and the 4WD and heads off to OBC PHOTO BY: Laika week, thanks to some not so cool pain-blocker a very remote location to check out a church. SUBSCRIPTIONS & ADMINISTRATION meds. Thank the Lord for medicines. Ashlee Rose from TrailLite has hit the road Subscriptions Manager Laura Atkinson with a baby on board, and husband. She will [email protected] I have been one of the unlucky 1 in 3 that got be sharing their adventures – this issue they Phone enquiries: 06 306 6041 extended neuralgia pain to deal with, but I am travel to the South Island, stage one. Office hours: Mon – Wednesday 10am to 3pm out the other side now, and wouldn’t wish this SUBSCRIPTION RATES on anyone, and highly recommend the shingles Finding a dog-friendly park can seem difficult One year $49.95 (6 issues) vaccine. Though you have to be able to afford it – in this issue the Department of Conservation Australia/Pacific $90 (6 issues) of course, unless you’re over 65 in which case (DOC) let us know of a few around the country Rest of World $150 (6 issues) it is free for the one-shot less-effective vaccine. to mark down in our travel diaries. Full online website access $25 1 year Bruce had shingles last year, a small rash and RV-NZTODAY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE no pain at all, but with rheumatoid arthritis his For something completely different, how about IS PUBLISHED BY specialist recommends he gets the latest two- a trip sailing from Ōpua in Northland down to RnR Publishing Limited shot vaccine, at $350 per shot over a two-month Lyttelton via Marlborough Sounds, with your PO Box 220 period, wow! At least that comes with a guarantee other half and the dog in a campervan meeting Martinborough, to never get it again. I will be lining up in 12 you in ports along the way? Champagne is the Wairarapa 5711 months’ time that is for sure. Okay, so getting boat name – nice. Main office Ph: 06 306 6030 it multiple times doesn’t happen that often, but Auckland Sales office: 09 296 2926 enough for me to start saving for that jab now. RV Mega in Mt Maunganui have taken Mail: PO Box 220, Martinborough Speaking with friends, there have been a few the distributorship of the Italian-built Laika 28 Oxford Street, Martinborough, 5711 that have had discomfort from rashes on their motorhome brand, the first models landed in PUBLISHERS heads and faces, oh so painful. My doctor said June. We went for the launch and took a look Bruce Mountain, [email protected] cases have increased over the last two years due over the two models on display. The NZMCA Robyn Mountain, [email protected] to the jump in anxiety and stress levels. Stress Motorhome, Caravan & Leisure show was on PRINTING triggers that nasty little virus to wake up in your in May. We spotlight models displayed over OVATO body, but only if you had chicken pox as a kid. the weekend, 9500 visitors through the doors DISTRIBUTION I think I am a fairly relaxed, and a chill kind over the two days. We are looking forward to Gordon and Gotch of a girl, but Bruce getting pneumonia was a the September show at Mystery Creek, it will drama, so I blame him 100 per cent, and tell be a big one. NOTICE TO ADVERTISERS him so every time I order a cup of tea or a wine. Robyn, Bruce and Caspar Mountain RnR Publishing Ltd uses due care and diligence in the Editor – Publisher – Sidekick RV Lifestyle dog preparation of this magazine, but is not responsible or liable for any mistakes, misprints, omissions or typographical errors. RnR Publishing Ltd prints advertisements provided to the publisher, but gives no warranty and makes no representation to the truth, accuracy or sufficiency of any description, photograph or statement. RnR Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for any loss that may be suffered by any person who relies either wholly or in part upon any description, photograph or statement contained herein. Advertisers are advised that all advertising must conform to the ASA Codes of New Zealand Advertising; full details and codes book available from asa.co.nz. RnR Publishing Ltd reserves the right to refuse any advertisement for any reason. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. All material gathered in creating NZTODAY RV Lifestyle magazine is copyright 2021 RnR Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved in all media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher. Please check our website www.RnRPublishing.co.nz for a full Terms and Conditions of advertising schedule. www.rvmagazine.co.nz 5

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RnR CHRONICLES Road trip south Words Robyn Mountain Photos BruceMountain 1 It has been a busy few weeks just recently, 2 drive in the right conditions. There was no driving down to Martinborough, then across snow or ice to contend with, the weather was the Strait to get to Christchurch for the I got Covid as well at the same time? Yep, good picture-perfect with snow-capped moun- NZMCA Motorhome, Caravan & Outdoor times these last couple of months, though I do tains drawing our eyes from every angle. We show over the weekend of May 21–22. Back think the antivirals I was already on probably stopped at various DOC sites and memorials, home briefly, then Mt Maunganui to celebrate saved me from a lot of the worst effects from and at Maruia Hot Springs for a look at the new motorhome arrivals with Richard Olsen Covid. I sneezed a couple of times and had a campground and pools. The Rock was gag- and the RV Mega team (see details in the RV blocked nose for a day and that was it, so it ging to go for a dip but in my condition that pages in the back of this magazine). Then it was the least of my worries. was not happening, so we headed off, though was on to the magazine so we could go to print as we were looking to pull out of the drive- before the Matariki public holiday on June 24. Despite all this, as we left Christchurch and way and out onto the highway a car towing a headed north, I said to Bruce ,“Let’s go the During this time driving in the motorhome long way over Lewis Pass.” I haven’t been over was awful. It doesn’t pay to have a jelly-belly that way for over 40 years. What a wonderful when suffering shingles pain – bouncing up and down all the way down the country was not fun. We had planned a couple of weeks cruising around and hitting the West Coast while we were down there for the show but I couldn’t handle that so it was straight back home afterwards. I wasn’t up to staying in the motorhome for that period either and had to book into a motel – that was non-negotiable and the only way I would get into the motor- home at all for the trip. Oh, and did I mention 1. Two ferry trips in two weeks with stunning weather, picture perfect seas 2. A stopover in Kaikōura, plenty of room in the car park I am sad to say 3. Bus towing car at B2B services 3 4 4. Getting the water pump fixed at B2B Services, great service www.rvmagazine.co.nz 7

56 8 7 like to support small communities and small so good in fact my vegan husband decided to business, even if it is just something simple, have bratwurst and mash. Unfortunately they caravan pulled in. Rocky handed a magazine but that was simply too far over the top for had no beef, just chicken or pork schnitzel. out the window to the driver – as he does all our budget. We did wonder how they sur- The bratwurst really was just a common or over the country – the man handed it back vived – figuring the locals must have a card or garden pork banger, which Caspar woofed and said, “No thanks we have subscribed to a special deal for 40 to 50 per cent off meals. back later. We looked at each other and said, this magazine for years, we have read it.” A “Can’t wait to get home for decent food.” great conversation ensued, and we headed Back in the motorhome we decided to just off, time to turn right at the intersection that get to Blenheim and stay at the NZMCA camp An afternoon crossing meant we had half heads to Reefton one way and Murchison the at the racecourse there, a great place with a day to kill the following day, time to walk other. Caspar onboard, and horse training in the around Blenheim’s shopping precinct, drop mornings for a bit of interest. Looking online in to visit friends – who weren’t there – and A stopover in Murchison with a drink at I found a German restaurant specialising in visit the Wairau River winery. We didn’t go the pub with some food was the plan. The schnitzel and bratwurst, just what I needed, for the wine tasting, I looked it up and saw drink went ahead but upon reading the menu a nice wiener or at least beef schnitzel with they did morning tea, so Caspar was parked – with prices starting at $36 for steak, chips some mash and vegies. The menu read great, outside the window while we were sat in a and eggs and going up from there – we left. lovely area in front of the glorious open fire We do eat out and about a bit as we travel and and were served the most incredible … in fact we both said at the time and mean it 100 per cent, the lightest most delicious muffins we’d ever tasted and the friands were incred- ible – hands down the best baking we have ever eaten, wow!Where to now we wondered, then headed to the Forrest Wines vineyard down the road. The subscribers we’d met on the Lewis Pass had talked about this place – as his partner works there – so it would’ve been rude to not pop in and check it out. Home to The Doctors’ wine label, the vineyard is a delightful setting with games for the kids 9 10 8 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

11 12 and lots of wines to taste. Alas, we were driv- established amongst the vines. We popped in 5. A small world, we met these subscribers as we ing but enjoyed one or two snifters while we to see winemaker Shaun Brown at Muirlea drove out and they drove into Maruia Springs chatted in the sun with the expert on site, and Rise vineyard, taking the Forrest wine with 6. The Boyle Campsite along the Lewis Pass road purchased a lovely sticky dessert wine to take us to sample alongside some of his Apre wine, has links to the St James walkway - and happily with us, oh all right, maybe two bottles. and we then joined a group tasting the latest dogs on leads are okay batch of red alongside some specialty Whit- 7. Driving west on the Lewis Pass heading to Another picture-perfect crossing weath- taker’s chocolate to match – it’s nice-nice-nice Murchison then Blenheim. This side of the drive is er-wise to Wellington, then over the hill back being a local in a wine village. tussock, rocky landscape with some trees to Martinborough to check on the house 8. Campground at Lewis Pass Maruia Springs painter’s progress. A walk to Colombo near Back up to Auckland, then a trip to Mt 9. This plaque commemorates the opening of the the golf course for a pizza and beer on a warm Maunganui to RV Mega for the launch of Lewis Pass 30 October 1937, layed in 1981 winter’s day had to be done. It is great that the the Laika motorhome, after that it was head 10. Forrest Wines vineyard culture in Martinborough has now expanded down, butt up to get this magazine to print. 11. Colombo is a relaxed venue among the vineyards outside of wine and this place serves beer I can happily share that I am currently pain that has BEER, that’s right not just wine, great food alongside its wine. We have a brewery in the free and nearly back to normal – whatever and atmosphere as well main village area and gin distilleries are well that is, right? 12. We had to take the dessert sticky from Forest Wines to our mate Shaun at Muirlea Rise winery for a taste test www.rvmagazine.co.nz 9

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TRAVEL Gumdiggers Park › Waiharara › Northland Kaurigum,theothergold The kauri industry left its mark on Northland, and its history is evident across the Far North. There are the old gum fields above Ahipara, murals in Kaitaia, displays of kauri gum in the Museum@TeAhu, Dalmatian family names across the district, but best of all there is the Gumdiggers Park at Waiharara. 1 Writer and photos: Helen Yuretich years ago and the second about 45,000 years ago. No one is sure what happened but the T o find the park drive 20 minutes north 2 trees lie in the same direction suggesting of Kaitaia on the main road, then down some cataclysmic force of nature. They were 3km of gravel on a side road. The gravel new investment wouldn’t go up in flames preserved in the peaty swamp and the gum provides atmosphere. You’re driving before they could even open the doors. exuded by the trees was found to be highly into history. valuable to the paint and varnish industry. That was followed by a wild storm which The gum trade flourished between 1850 and I always enjoy visiting. I called in recently left the park littered with twigs and branches. 1940, peaking around the turn of the century. to chat with the family who has been there Warwick was outside sweeping and cleaning for four generations. Patrick Heath bought up for days. He used a tea-tree besom which Irishman Patrick Heath bought the prop- the property in 1904 and his descendants are was worn to a stump by the time he’d finished. erty in 1904 and began to dig for gum. When still there. the gum supply was exhausted the property The Gumdiggers Park is a genuine pre- became neglected. More than half a century Or so I thought. But no. served gum field. It’s a little piece of history, later John Johnston married Sharon, Patrick’s Warwick Harvey greeted me. “We’re new,” and what a piece. Enormous kauri forests great-granddaughter, and happened across he said. “My wife and I have been here for were felled here. Twice. The first over 100,000 the holes previously dug. He then began eight weeks.” Irene introduced herself and the enormous task of clearing the workings, invited me to sit down. establishing the heritage park and making Keen to leave Auckland after almost 30 it safe for the public. In 2019 the site was a years working as a chartered accountant winner in the annual Tripadvisor Awards. (Warwick) and managing a surgeon’s practice (Irene) they spotted the property online and I picked up a map in the gift shop. There’s bought it without even visiting. the Nature Trail and the Gumdiggers Discov- They’re adventurous folk but they needed ery Trail as well as short side trips. The two more than an adventurous spirit during main trails circle through a recreated diggers’ their first weeks here. Immediately after they village. It’s an easy stroll which takes about arrived, the big peat fire started just down the an hour. The paths are clean and well marked road at Kaimaumau. They had smoke and ash on the property for weeks and hoped their 12 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

34 5 although not always level. Stay between Rising at dawn, after a quick camp breakfast enough to tell the men if they had struck gum. the ropes and don’t stray – there are holes of tea and bread, the diggers would put on They no longer laboured for hours to dig up everywhere. work clothes still damp from yesterday and worthless articles. start searching. Children must be well supervised and dogs After prodding and digging all day, often must be kept on a lead. They would probe the earth with spears up to their knees in swamp water, always searching for trunks and trying to estab- exposed to sun or wind or rain, the men The first thing I came to was the ‘Original lish how the tree lay. Spears got longer as carried their findings back to camp, made Mobile Shop’, a hut which has been converted the shallow ground was cleaned out. It was a simple meal of tinned meat with bread into a mini theatre. It’s well worth stopping for a time-consuming and exhausting task to or potato and set about scraping the gum. the 15-minute audio-visual show about the find the trees, establish which way they were history of gum and life on the site. lying and then dig to see if there was anything 1. Gumdiggers Park, Waiharara worthwhile. Very often the spears would find 2. Gum displayed at Museum@TeAhu in Kaitaia The life of a digger was dire. Surface gum nothing of value but the diggers couldn’t be 3. Thirty-year-old kauri tree planted when John was quickly removed so it became necessary sure until they’d dug it up. Johnston began to set up the site to dig. Swamps were often rich in gum that 4. Gum dripping from the young tree planted by John had been washed down over centuries, but In the mid-1890s digger John Botica Johnston working them in winter was too cold and diffi- invented a spear with a coil. This could be 5. New owners Irene and Warwick Harvey cult, so swamps were worked in summer, and pressed into any substance underground and 6. Gary the kauri snail higher ground such as Ahipara was worked in a small sample would be caught. Known as 7. The gumdiggers’ store winter. The Waiharara site is situated on the a ‘joker’, this innovation simplified the work Kaikino swamp. enormously. The sample on the coil was The days were long, often cold, always wet. 67 13www.rvmagazine.co.nz

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12 11 13 14 Clean gum earned a higher price than dirty of tea-tree and bound together with twine or 20,000 including up to 9000 Dalmatians. gum. flax. It’s a stark environment. I passed through the store and walked the Sundays were for other chores: sharpening In the village you can inspect a weighing two-minute detour that leads to the lookout. tools, washing clothes and baking bread. If machine, riddles and sieves, a big complicated From here the visitor can see a large swamp there was spare time some would carve the gum washing machine. There’s a store where which has not been developed. The thick gum or draw it out into kauri silk. The men necessities could be purchased and off the scrub and hidden holes make it too danger- played cards, sang, competed in tug-of-war path is a hut labelled “Ye olde gumdigger’s ous to explore. Over the years it has become matches or tended their gardens. long drop”. home “to rare and endangered plants and wildlife”. It is believed many more giant logs After listening to the audio-visual guide I Walk through the store and you’ll be on the are buried here. set off along the nature path and came to the Gumdiggers Discovery Trail. gecko house. There are very few places in New Back on the path I walked past holes of all Zealand with permission to breed geckos but The diggers were versatile and resourceful. sizes until I came to some rough steps leading this is one of them. The house is set on stilts. They invented whatever they needed – a spe- into an open hole. Visitors can walk down and It has glass viewing panels and good informa- cialised spade, gum spears, ‘jokers’ to pick up imagine themselves working here. I exited tion boards but the geckos were in hiding. I samples, hooks, scraping knives, anything to pretty sharpish. didn’t spot any. make the job a bit easier. Beside the trail is a hurdy gurdy, a basic gum washing machine A few more minutes walking and I was Further on there’s a side path out to the invented to separate the gum from the soil. It back at the Gumdiggers’ Village. I’d com- massive log uncovered in 2011. NIWA scien- was an improvement on hand swilling. pleted the two circular paths and all that was tists are studying the log and hoping to find left was the gift shop. The walls are lined with more of them using a ground scanning drone. The first diggers generally worked alone. old tools and implements. There’s a fine dis- Carbon dating is only accurate to 50,000 years By the 1890s many had come from Croatia, play of polished gum alongside polished kauri so they used a marine oxygen isotope test to seeking a better life. It was an industry which bowls, kauri gum jewellery and other gifts date this log. They calculate it is 120,000 years required little English and no outlay. Those and souvenirs, as well as ice cream, of course. old. It is a useful source of information about who arrived empty-handed could be ‘grub- climate over the millennia and there is inter- staked’ – a local storekeeper would provide 8. The gift shop is part museum national interest in studying it. equipment and food in exchange for gum. 9. Male and female kauri cones The Dalmatians were sober, hard-working 10. Stick to the path, there are holes everywhere The trail passes through the ‘Gumdiggers’ and honest but there was much prejudice 11. Recreated huts in the Gumdiggers’ Village Village’ where you can step into a recreated against them, perhaps because of their work 12. Gumboots drying outside a hut hut and imagine the uncomfortable life of the ethic and the success of their cooperative 13. Simple shelving and the necessities of life men who worked there. Made from sacking, efforts. They preferred to work together. 14. The giant log unearthed in 2011, calculated to be corrugated iron, punga logs or whatever else 120,000 years old was available, the huts have dirt floors and There are no clear statistics about how external chimneys. Beds and shelves are made many people were employed in the industry 15www.rvmagazine.co.nz but it is believed that at the peak there were

15 16 On the desk Warwick has placed a dish years, the Harveys are thrilled to have their 17 containing fat green ‘female’ cones alongside own little section of bush where they can the less impressive finger-like ‘male’ cones. listen to cicadas instead of lorries. If you’re “They both grow on the same tree,” said Irene. interested in local history or would just like a “What’s it called? You know, hermaphrodites.” walk in the bush I can recommend it. We laughed, feeling sure that wasn’t quite the right term. I can recommend it. Park is open 9am to 5pm in summer. I stopped to admire a wrought iron orna- ment. “That’s Gary the kauri snail,” said 15. Gum weighing equipment Warwick. “My father made him out of horse- 16. The Dalmatian influence is still felt shoes.” Gary is not for sale. 17. Detail from the Dalmatian pou in Te Ahu, Kaitaia 18. Giant logs in the carpark Warwick plans to do some craftwork him- 19. Tools displayed in the gumdiggers’ store self. “I want to learn how to polish the wood 20. Part of a sophisticated gum washing machine and the gum to make pendants and orna- ments,” he said. “And I’ve got plans to develop the picnic site and maybe put in some fairy houses for the kids to enjoy.” Having lived on a noisy Auckland street for 18 CONLLZETCOTDOARYSS’ PEEDCITIAIOLNS order your copies online www.RnRpublishing.co.nz or P: 06 306 6041 to order direct 16 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

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WALK & CYCLE TRAILS Whangārei › Northland Whangarei Wanderings A weekend of walks and wonders Story Sheryl Bainbridge Photos Neill & Sheryl Bainbridge 1 18 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

2 3 4 F rom our clean, comfortable cabin at teenage boy with a strange sense of humour 1. The prominent town clock Whangārei’s Top 10 Holiday Park we and a large white sheet. 2. Mount Parihaka dominates the planned our assault on Mount Parihaka. Whangārei city skyline Fear of having to isolate away from home if Anyway, from present day Mair Park, three 3. View from the summit of Parihaka we contacted Covid meant we haven’t done too tracks head to the summit through native 4. Signage for the reserve much travelling lately, but we’re now in Covid bush and past various points of interest in the 5. Parihaka War Memorial Orange, case numbers seem to be dropping Parihaka Scenic Reserve. In the end, dodgy 6. Mair Park and we’re going a bit stir-crazy. Besides that, weather meant we took a fourth alternative, Whangārei’s not far from our home in the Far driving up Memorial Drive followed by a North for a first trip. short walk up some steps, where interpretive signage provided information on early Māori Once the largest pā in the area, Mount Par- history, and we enjoyed the expansive views ihaka dominates the city skyline, and the tall, over the city. The view from the top is par- slender war memorial, built in 1956 to com- ticularly remarkable in spring when the city’s memorate local WW11 fallen, is sited right at many jacarandas are flowering. the top. At night the peak of the memorial and the crosses, one on each of its four sides can It’s a two-hour return riverside walk from be seen glowing red from throughout the city. Mair Park to our next destination Otuihau Whangārei Falls, and again we took the The holiday park adjoins Mair Park, from shorter option, the 1km loop walk around where a footbridge across the Hātea River the falls themselves. A short distance but leads to several walking tracks alongside the good exercise walking from top to bottom water. Mair Park became briefly notorious in and back, and again, much of it was through the early 1960s when ‘The Mair Park Ghost’ mature native bush. Recent rain meant that terrified local courting couples. Some years plenty of water was running over the falls, later the ghost was revealed to be a local which were looking pretty impressive. 56 19www.rvmagazine.co.nz

7 Having heard that the canopy bridge in the its kind and acts as a shelter, a sculpture and is no shrinking violet. From its golden cupola Town Basin was lit at night, we headed there a seat for seven. Its main function apparently rising above the rooftop garden to its brick after dinner and were suitably impressed with is to stand out, and it certainly achieves that and brightly tiled walls and uneven steps the coloured lights and the way they reflected aim, being visible from many points around it’s an explosion of colour and design that in the water. The Town Basin is a real credit the loop. includes the Wairau Māori art gallery and has to Whangārei and Covid Orange meant the rapidly become a visitor magnet. Wrought- restaurants were humming, and people were Artworks beside the loop and the sculp- iron gates, trees, brick-paved humps and out walking, enjoying their relative freedom tural Te Matau ā Pohe bridge, the marina and hollows and a four-tier fountain give the exte- while mainly young riders whirled around the Town Basin itself mean this increasingly rior a crazy-Italianate vibe. I loved everything the basin on the on the Beam purple electric attractive walk is popular with many, and it about the place, particularly the quiet state- e-scooters. is well used by parents pushing strollers and ment of support evidenced by the Ukrainian people exercising dogs. flag fluttering below Hundertwasser’s koru WALK THIS WAY flag on the roof. IT’S A STANDOUT A walk around the 4.2km Hātea Loop is TIME AFTER TIME almost obligatory on our visits to Whangārei. It’s big, brash, colourful, crooked and full of There’s always something different to see, quirky surprises such as the ceramic ‘nest’ of Apparently the first mechanical clock was and this time it’s a large, round, rotating blue gemstone eggs outside a typically unconven- designed and engineered many centuries ago structure. Called a GiraGlob, it’s the first of tional window. Whangārei’s recently opened to link to the bells on church steeples. These Hundertwasser Art Centre at the Town Basin 8 9 10 20 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

11 12 would then chime to summon the faithful to of the kind that many of us will remember 7. Hundertwasser Art Centre their devotions. Claphams National Clock seeing outside railway stations. We learnt that 8. Otuihau Whangārei Falls Museum has one of these original clocks on a grandfather clock is a longcase clock that is 9. Nest and eggs at the display together with more than 2000 other 6´6˝ and over, a grandmother clock is 5´6˝ to Hundertwasser Art Centre timepieces large and small. They include 6´ and a granddaughter clock is 3´ to 4´6˝ high. 10. Whangārei’s new Giraglob cuckoo clocks for Africa (or more accurately, sculpture can be seen for miles Switzerland), novelty clocks, kitsch clocks, The museum has one of the largest collec- 11. Four tiers of fountain marine clocks, a parliamentary Speaker’s tions of clocks in the southern hemisphere. It 12. The generosity of donors is clock which was used to control and record began as Archibald Clapham’s private collec- acknowledged the length of time a Member of the House tion of some 400 clocks. In 1961 he sold the was permitted to speak, and a large timepiece collection to the council at a nominal price, and clock numbers have increased since then. DOES YOUR CARAVAN OR MOTORHOME LEAK? YOU NEED OUR LIQUID RUBBER WATERPROOF SEALANT SIMPLY PAINT OR ROLL IT ON AND WALK AWAY 1Alit,vrae4ilpa&abil1les0in From selected Mitre 10 outlets or for further information visit our website www.liquidrubber.co.nz Email [email protected] 21www.rvmagazine.co.nz

14 13 15 16 17 18 It’s an interesting place to visit, and informative all the timing arms fill up, the balls spill over and through mud, over rocks and into water guided tours can be arranged on request. get into motion. That’s a good time to see it”, says with our limited agility deterred us from project manager Warren Thomas. what undoubtedly would have been a great Outside is an imposing town clock on tall experience. Inside the caves stalactites hang slender legs, and what is believed to be the In one corner of the structure, stainless and glow-worms glow. Good sturdy shoes, a biggest sundial in the southern hemisphere. steel ‘Pedal Man’ appears to be driving the torch and helmet are strongly recommended. It should be self-evident that climbing up the vertical ball lift system that sees bowling balls However, the 1.1km walk around the reserve sundial is not the brightest idea in the world, travelling around steel tracks. The ‘Pedal Man’ through outstanding limestone rock for- but it seems that warnings against doing so are circuit consists of nine balls while the remain- mations, past the house site of a pioneering sometimes necessary. der form part of the clock circuit. family and through mature trees including many huge pūriri was a great way to stretch THE ‘ABOUT TIME’ PROJECT “Pedal Man was the creation of graphic the legs. Although in a typically rural setting, designer Peter Romer”, says Warren. “He’s the caves are actually just minutes away from It’s 14 years since the small rolling ball clock there to provide a bit of entertainment. Last the city centre. inside the museum became the inspiration Christmas Pedal Man was dressed in a Santa for what has become the latest, hugely popu- costume, and he wore an Emirates vest for the IN OUR DEFENCE lar attraction at the basin. Being both outside last America’s Cup challenge. Over his arm he and a working clock makes the newly installed carries a harvest kete to indicate a connection At the end of the 32km road from Whangārei 6mx4mx2.5m high rolling ball clock a unique to the Matariki planting cycle.” to Urquhart Bay, Bream Head scenic reserve world first. Funded by the Provincial Growth offers walking options for both the very fit Fund, Whangārei City Council, donations and The clock was certainly proving interest- and the average walker. During WW11, due a massive fund-raising effort, the kinetic sculp- ing to the crowd at the time of our visit and to concern at the potential for Japanese inva- ture is a wonderful combination of precision will hopefully achieve its initial aim to attract sion, a radar station was sited on Bream Head. engineering, strong cultural elements such as more visitors into the adjoining Claphams On the point at the entrance to Whangārei the Māori lunar calendar Maramataka and a Clocks Museum. Harbour a gun emplacement and associated crowd drawcard. It operates from 9am to 9pm buildings including a battery observation post and while we were there its time-indicator racks GETTING DOWN AND DIRTY were constructed. Already, in 1940 the RMS saw many observers surreptitiously checking Niagara, with its cargo of ammunition and gold their watches against them. “Every day at 1pm Actually, we didn’t. Although tempted to 22 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022 enter at least one of the three caves in the Abbey Caves reserve, the thought of sloshing

had been sunk by German mines off nearby 19 20 Ocean Beach, and in 1941 the minesweeper HMS Puriri was mined with a loss of five lives. 21 Her memorial stands at Ocean Beach today. 13. The rolling ball clock… 14. …and the hardworking To see the remains of the radar station 'Pedal Man' 15. Silent support for Ukraine involves a long, steep walk up to Bream Head 16. Inside Claphams Clock Museum 17. Plenty of itself but access to the gun emplacement is cuckoo clocks here 18. A novelty clock. One of the easy. We’d heard that there were remnants dog’s eyeballs points to the minutes while the other of a spotting mural with compass bearings shows what the hour is 19. One of the extraordinary at the observation post so were keen to see limestone formations in the Abbey Caves Reserve that. Now protected by plexiglass to deter 20. WWII mural in the observation post at Bream the mindless who have vandalised the gun Head 21. The radar station at Bream Head emplacement itself with graffiti, the observa- tion post mural is one of the last remaining murals from WW11 and as such is nationally significant. It was painted by soldiers rather than artists and was restored in 1995. A 3km loop walk over farmland takes in Smugglers Cove’s sandy beach as well as these now historic buildings. Views across the water are outstanding and include the Marsden Point oil refinery and culturally important Mount Manaia. The scenery alone makes the walk worthwhile, and the history is a definite bonus. This trip to Whangārei was short and some- what random. There are many other walks, beaches and attractions. But we’ll save those for another time. 23www.rvmagazine.co.nz

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Tora Coastal Walk WALK & CYCLE TRAILS In the Shadow of the Witch’s Hat Gary maps Tora Coastal Walk, a scenic private loop walk with outstanding views over the Pacific Ocean Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 1 W hen I started tramping all the Great I am met at the station homestead by Tora history, how the track came about and some Walks for the Great Hikes App, part Coastal Walk’s owners Kiri and James Elwor- of the highlights I should capture to build of me knew it’d be a slog. While thy. The view from up here is of a truly rural content for my app. Over a hearty meal, their it’s a once in a lifetime journey to heartland. As we talk I find it hard not to passion for rural life and the obvious impor- hike all of NZ’s premier walking tracks, my peer over their visitor cottage to the grassy tance placed on the walker experience only ‘comfort self ’ was outraged. I could almost ridges that lead seaward. This is a hiking land- feeds my anticipation for the next days of hear it saying ‘how dare you put me through scape very unlike the public walks that I am walking. a month’s worth of trudging around with all familiar with, and I am eager to learn more 1. Trekking along the tops (Tora Coastal Walk) this mapping gear? Torment me with 30-odd before I head out. So, before retreating to bed, 2. Gary on top! unpowered hut nights, and leave me several the Elworthy’s fill me in about the station’s weeks without showering?’ However, into the 25www.rvmagazine.co.nz wilderness I walked, silencing those inner 2 voices with every enriching step I took. Yet the completion of these premier tracks was not the end of my great walking as I planned to add a range of private walks to the app. This was when my ‘comfort self ’ became a mischievous character and egged me on. Private walks are a different kettle of fish. Who wouldn’t want to stretch one’s soles yet all the while hardly seeing a soul, to have remote meals transported in on wheels, and to enter the back-country without being backwards? Growing older every day and feeling my body age, I am still as keen as they come. So on a spring afternoon, I drive through Martinborough and arrive just short of the Wairarapa coast ready for new adventures.

34 I’m up early and soon meet up with those and glint on a faraway windfarm. I enter a currents around the bay to the headland who stayed the first night in the charming GPS waypoint here before leaving, and as I known as Manurewa Point. Then my senses Whakapata Cottage, a group of 10 women come down I see the group cresting a distant are alerted, as I smell a faint odour. After – friends from different parts of the North ridge. I follow a ridgeline which takes me ever working on pest eradication projects in the Island looking for a timeout from life’s daily closer to Tora’s coastline. It’s not long before subantarctic for nearly a year in shin-deep burdens. With my GPS units powered up and the view from the track changes from green penguin and seal poo that scent is soooo bearing only day packs, we depart together to blue as the vastness of the ocean nears. The familiar. I take a short side trail into a reserve over green fields and leave life’s luggage track seems to make the most of land’s final and spot one of several NZ fur seals on the behind. Instantly we plunge into station life; moments as it begins to snake down a spur point. Here I sit, watch and wait. Only a few there are stiles to negotiate, cattle to pass, which maximises the viewpoints. Then magi- metres away young active seals play in the and the station manager to chat with as he cally up pops The Witches Hat. This landscape shallow rock pools while the adults bask in searches for a water-main leak near the wet feature, shaped like a hat, casts a dark shadow the sun watching their youths’ antics. It is an patch we just crossed. After passing the over the hillside. Here I have my own spell as unexpected but rewarding bonus in today’s farm dogs huddled together on the back of I catch up with the party of women walkers cottage to coast section. Turning around from the quad bike, we follow markers through and watch them descend a tricky section into the point I see some of the group are taking the fields, cross a bridge then head into the Stony Bay. a dip in front of Stony Bay Lodge. The lodge backblocks. is a modern building and the second night’s The walk along the shore to Stony Bay stay. From the comfy couches of the lodge’s This is where we meet the hill country. Here Lodge is a refreshing change of scene. No lounge the bay views are epic, and to top it the inland ranges rise and I begin to steadily longer are we in the rugged hills but adjacent off Kiri’s cuisine angels have created tasty tarts gain elevation. Without an overnight back- to the flat sea with the coastline guiding our and other treats to feast on after our walk and pack, the hills are far more achievable, getting way. We follow the water’s edge of swirling up from rest stops is easier and the day more enjoyable. It’s more trekking than trudging. Soon I reach the ridgeline which turns east towards the Pacific Ocean. The undulating ridge contains a grove of kowhai with a yellow carpet of flowers covering the path, and then I enter a pocket of native forest on the side of The Bugler. On reaching its summit, it’s easy to imagine a soldier standing tall on the rocky knob with uninterrupted views while playing his bugle. Yet I sit in silence, enjoy- ing the packed treats of my provided lunch while watching the mesmerising blades turn 3. The shoreline is stunningly scenic (Tora 5 Coastal Walk) 4. Seals on the rocks, foreshore and in the water 5. On the way through the farm we caught up with the working farm dogs 6. The Crow’s Nest lookout 7. Looking out from Stony Bay Lodge (Tora Coastal Walk) 8. Kiri Elworthy with tonight’s dessert 26 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

6 into the evening. steady and steep and I rise quickly above the longer but with a big day ahead I don’t linger The next day’s adventure for the group is homestead. The higher I climb the windier long. After entering a waypoint and taking it gets – today’s severe wind warning seems some shaky photos I return on all fours back more relaxed with plenty of options. Visitors wildly accurate. The last part of the exposed to the shelter of the lowlands. can walk along the foreshore to the historic razorback ridge goes from a climb to a clam- Opua shipwreck, climb a headland or just ber to a crawl as I get down on all fours to Once beside the Oterei River, the main track relax before a leisurely short walk along the reach the trig. The trig is a saviour. This solid turns inland. This is a gentle walk along farm coast to Greentops Homestead. For my cus- black and white structure is a lifeline in the tracks for a few hours before entering the bush tomised mapping trip, I combine two days gale and has one the finest views from any on a historic stock route. This block of dense into one. So I start early into the wild Wair- survey marker. On a calm day the vista over podocarp-hardwood forest has been protected arapa wind. From the homestead, I take a side the coastal ranges and the ocean would be with a QEII covenant and the hand-cut track trip to climb a prominent headland. While it’s magnificent; today it’s both breathtaking and meanders peacefully following the hillside’s optional and only suitable for the fit, I think eye-watering. I would like to stay here much contours. Soon I hear the unfamiliar chirps the 301 metre ascent is a must-do. The track is of whiteheads from high up in the canopy. 78 27www.rvmagazine.co.nz

9 I sit and watch these North Island dwellers, her team are working hard getting the facil- Tora epitomises some of the best reasons their yellowhead (mohua) cousins from the ities ready for the next visitors that will be for undertaking a private walk. They have deep south are seldom seen by trampers, arriving shortly. When Tora Coastal Walk was awesome scenery, pure seclusion and a dash including myself. Yet whiteheads are not hole set up by James’s mother in 1995 they were of secret sauce. The Elworthy’s successful nesters like their cousins which has aided scoffed at by those who believed it absurd recipe combines the joy of walking without their survival from predators and so they are that you could create a track over farmland the hardship of tramping … and for me, it more commonly seen. I take some notes to that visitors would pay to walk on. Today totally works! The home comforts of daily ensure that these birds and their calls are cap- their family and staff can be proud. The Tora overnight gear transportation and prepared tured on the app. Coastal Walk is one of the most respected, meals in comfortable places are a wonderful sought after and heavily booked walks in the complement to the experience. So if your I continue up the forest catchment with country. ‘comfort self ’ is anything like mine, consider glimpses across the valley to The Bugler. Near a private walk, and book ahead for a Tora trip the top of the catchment, the trail fords the I had a great walk and loved the private of hiking heaven. headwaters before rising to open pasture. An walk’s journey. What Tora offers is unlike 9. The views are just epic (Tora Coastal Walk) hour later I link the loop and soon return to any Great Walk trip; it’s a small-group walk- Kiri who is making up the cottage. She and ing experience and a place for a retreat. Stats 39.5km, three days Great Hikes App: App Store or Play Store 28 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

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Sailing North to South TRAVEL CruisingonSkyborn andChampagne Summer cruising trip on a yacht trip from Northland to Lyttelton, with land crew and Ziggy the dog in a campervan following along on terra firma. Story + Photos Lesley Stone 1 31www.rvmagazine.co.nz

2 the South Island of New Zealand? first challenge appeared. There simply wasn’t Sixteen yachts and their crews took up the a decent weather window to allow the yachts What to do if your partner is to sail up around North Cape and Cape determined to do a full figure-of-eight idea, including half a dozen catamarans. So Rēinga, and then down to Abel Tasman, our circumnavigation of New Zealand in a real sense, she really was herding ‘cats’ – planned first landfall, unless we were pre- during the summer on your yacht, cruising yachties being a fairly free-spirited pared to endure two days of strong winds on Champagne? What if you’re none too keen on lot at the best of times. the nose rounding Rēinga. Well actually, only overnight coastal passages in our oft-times after going out the necessary extra 20 nautical stern seas? Your little three-legged dog neither. We were among them, on our Schion- miles to clear the notorious Pandora Banks ning-design 12m cruising catamaran, along (breaking seas in all conditions). Why, you and Ziggy the dog bundle into with Lisa and Martin on (and sort-of off) a campervan and follow Champagne – a fine Champagne. This was when the theme for the whole trip and seaworthy Cavalier 45 design – all around was set. Visit lovely, little-known places, while the country, to meet up and catch up on nau- We were to muster at Opua in the Bay of waiting for just the right moment to make tical yarns in the safety of marina berths at Islands a day or so after Christmas, and await best use of the weather window – whenever ports of call. Best of both worlds! the call of Bruce Buckley – incidentally, based it might appear. in Perth, WA(!) – the professional weather This is exactly how Lisa Bennett forecaster/router Vicki had engaged for the So we pulled in at Whangaroa Harbour for approached the adventure provided by the safety of the fleet. In the nature of an enter- an overnight anchorage. It’s perhaps the most Island Cruising Club. All this, despite the prise like this, boats all had different itinerary beautiful of all of New Zealand’s harbours – durned Covid-thaing – which buggers up intentions and time constraints, also different certainly the safest anchorages within it. It’s the best-laid plans, as it did for the Island places to join or depart the group. Still, the where a pivotal incident in New Zealand’s Cruising Club, a New Zealand-based outfit majority met at Ōpua, while Vicki rushed early history happened – the burning of the that organises flotillas to sail to the Pacific around in a rental car (she is usually based in Boyd – which showed the English missionar- Islands every year. Suddenly, the doors to Christchurch), helping with final provision- ies and colonists eyeing the place at the time that cruising world had been slammed shut. ing and sourcing must-have items – like the that Māori were not to be trifled with. pillows for crew members we were short of In casting around for alternative des- on our boat, or the extra jerry cans of fuel I write a boating adventures series called Up tinations, Vicki Moore, the indefatigably we needed. the Creek, and Martin, a brewer by trade (more cheerful convener of the Island Cruising on that later), insisted we head up a tiny creek Club lit upon the obvious solution. In the You may recall the weather this past summer off the upper harbour to find the Gumdig- summer of 2021–22, why not explore Te was all over the place, and this is where our gers’ pub. But we couldn’t find the creek in the Wai Pounamu, the Waters of Greenstone, maze of mangroves, incidentally, rounding a wee headland named Cape Horn in our rubber 3 dinghy. It will have to wait for another day. 32 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022 Then came a day-sail to Mangōnui, a charming Far North harbour town. As we entered the channel, a pod of orca were just leaving. The story of how Lesley and Darleen, doing last-minute shopping in the waterside Four Square there, saw me and the blokes drifting past, anchor dragging with one man up the mast at the time, is too long to recount here. Suffice to say all ended well, much to the amusement of the harbourmaster, a cuzzie of Darleen’s, who calls himself Father Christmas. Bruce, our weatherman told us, “If you

want to go down the west coast, you’ll simply 4 at low tide), for flights back to Auckland; later, have to face either three or two days of strong lunch at the delightful, oak-dappled Toad southerlies, then the wind should ease in around her and said. “This is my day job. Hall brewery and café; an interview at Cop- your favour.” Some boats opted to stay put These people all become my friends. Cool pins, a family company – been in the main in Northland. Martin, true to form – and aye?” Too right. And besides, it doesn’t street for 100 years – that makes the best sea confirming Lisa’s knowledge of him – took take much diverting to appreciate the Abel anchors in the world. Then whānau to fetch in off immediately with other staunch blokes as Tasman area in a less-than-frenetic way. Nelson, and a fun ‘up the creek’ adventure fol- crew, three days of beating be dammed. We The marine reserve at Tonga Island for lowing the Maitai Creek through the middle followed a day later. And yes, the wind did example, with its safe anchorage, and wet- of Nelson city, and up to a monument on a hill ease, exactly when Bruce, and the amazingly land walkway, where we encountered a weka that marks the ‘Centre of New Zealand.’ Sort precise New Zealand-developed forecasting – hard case as always, with her adorably of … go and see why. and routing system PredictWind advised that fluffy wee chicks, quite the opposite. Or the it would. great coffee shop at the Awaroa Lodge, near 1. Alex and Lesley’s catamaran Skyborne, nestled the extraordinary white-sands Awaroa Inlet in behind Motuara Island, a pest-free reserve in the Another theme for the trip emerged – a (which dries out completely at low tide), just a outer reaches of Queen Charlotte Sound/Tōtaranui. seabird and wildlife safari of amazing sights. short walk away. We encountered many good Accessible by water taxi from the end of the Queen Every day at sea, we encountered dolphins folk just takin’ their time, chillin’ at the track Charlotte Track (be sure to check availability and more than once, some very rare Māui’s dol- huts in the Abel Tasman Park. All good. book) 2. One of many stunning rock formations in phins off the Taranaki coast, and a seal just Whangaroa Harbour, this one in Te Rere Bay. For lazing on the surface 60 NM offshore, blue The real world of deadlines imposed itself fabulous views of the harbour from the land, head whales (on this first leg), orca, and 1001 alba- on our Tasman idyll: crew members to drop from Whangaroa town to Totara North and take trosses. Also, this far north, many flying fish. off at Motueka Marina (which also dries out the Duke’s Nose/Kaiaraara Rocks Track. The track starts as the Wairakau Stream Track and then Arriving in Abel Tasman National Park, heads east towards and beyond Lane Cove Hut on the other enduring memories of the trip were the southern coastline of Te Rere Bay 3. Heading established. We learnt (again) just how beau- along the far northern coast from Otou (North tiful this country is – only this time, from the Cape) towards Te Rerenga Wairua (Cape Rēinga) privileged perspective of the view from the via Takapaukura (Tom Bowling Bay). There is a sea. We learnt too, how New Zealand in the campsite at Kapowairua (Spirit’s Bay) and another regions is re-discovering itself (and for the at Taputaputa. As always, check the DOC website for better, we reckon) in the post-Covid world. alerts as some of these tracks can be closed 4. Kayakers relax on a beach in the Astrolabe For a start, Abel Tasman Park at the height Roadway, opposite Motuareronui (Adele Island). The of summer was busy-as. We had never seen beaches here are accessible via the Abel Tasman New Zealand waterways so well traversed Coastal Track that starts with a low-tide crossing – by kayaks, small outboard boats, trailer-sail- over the Mārahau River. Visitors not kayaking in ers, cruising yachts and launches, water taxis, and out can arrange for one of the plentiful water you name it. All Kiwis enjoying their natural taxis to pick them up 5. Kayakers rafting up to heritage. take advantage of the wind on their way back into Rākauroa (Torrent Bay), a popular drop-off or pick- A young kayak-tours guide we spoke to, up place for walkers doing part of the Abel Tasman summed it all up. All smiles, she gestured Coastal Track 5 33www.rvmagazine.co.nz

6 78 We started at Ruby’s shiny silver coffee cart, serene Papatūānuku figure cradling a takahē College versus Town, 18 men per side. It tran- a local institution down by the Nelson marina in her lap, and artfully placed, half-hidden (I spires that the bloke who organised the game, and a spectacular pre-Covid success story. imagine at the sculptor’s request) in a bed of Charles Munro, played for the Town team, Locals frequent Ruby’s cart: bean bags on the flax bushes. Plenty more art along the way. and was the referee. No prizes for guessing lawn, free plums, top pastries, the cinnamon who won. brioches a standout. Just as we were halted by a small rapid in the Maitai, a signpost marked the start of the Onwards! We headed towards the noto- On our way up the creek on our kayaks, we walk up to the Centre of New Zealand, and a rious French Pass. It’s one of New Zealand’s marvelled at the great investment by Nelson bit further along was a quiet cricket oval with most challenging stretches of water, between in the number of terrific sculptures along a wonky boundary that looped around huge D’Urville Island and a finger of land in the the river walkway, including a magnificent old trees on the edges. I reckon the batsmen Marlborough Sounds, where the tide can run Phil Price piece, one of those fluid, organic, must know to aim for them to achieve a cut- at up to nine knots (!) in a kind of horizontal endlessly moving-in-the-wind forms of super- price four runs. Another sign proclaimed that waterfall across a line of rocks. A long-time lative engineering and seductive aesthetics. this was where the very first rugby game in shipmate of mine, Pete Thomas, had always Just beyond, again, a lovely female form, a New Zealand was played, way back in 1870. wanted to see the pass, so he and his wife STAY SAFE IN THE OUTDOORS Take a locator beacon with you when you are hunting, hiking or working anywhere remote and make sure you will be rescued quickly SPECIAL ACR ResQLink PLB - 400 FREE ONLY $485 DELIVERY Including P&P Comes with a heavy duty pouch 90 Outlets throughout NZ. AVAILABLE FOR SALE OR HIRE Trusted by Kiwis nationwide. $15 - 1 day We have the latest models available at NZ’s cheapest prices available $30 - 3 days online. Check out our website to see our great deals! $40 - 7 days $30 for every week after your first week of hire Use the promo code RVLIFE when ordering to receive an extra 5% off your purchase of a locator beacon! 03 226 6341 or 027 412 2925 | www.locatorbeacons.co.nz 34 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

9 10 6. Onetahuti Beach, where a large wetland is protected by a boardwalk and bridge across streams Marjo got there a few days before us in their apart, and a stay at her lodge, or exploring fed from forest, and where marine life is protected campervan to get the famous picture of the via the local mini-van tours outfit is a very by a marine reserve that includes Tonga Island current from the top of the hill. The road to worthwhile adventure. 7. Nelson’s Maitai Walkway features street art this extraordinary vantage point leaves State and sculptures from well-known artists, including Highway 6 at Rai Valley, between Nelson and There was a fascinating book displayed on ‘Sanctuary’ by sculptor Fiona Sutherland 8. The Havelock. her counter: Angelina, by Kiwi author Gerald cricket ‘oval’ in Nelson’s Botanical Reserve, with its Hindmarsh – the epic tale of his grandmother, wonky boundary. A cool spot to rest before heading As always, Martin on Champagne was who came all the way from the Italian island uphill to the ‘centre of New Zealand’ with glorious ahead of us, though he timed the tide imper- of Stromboli to marry her love (an arranged views of Nelson and Tasman Bay 9. My Happiness fectly and got swirled around a bit on his way marriage actually, but he became so), who leading us towards French Pass. Timing has to be through. We took a more demure passage was working at their family farm on D’Urville. perfect to minimise the potential for turbulence as in the company of another Island Cruising the water drops from a few metres deep through a Club yacht, the aptly-named catamaran My “The film rights have been sold for the narrow gap into a 70m deep. The pass is viewable Happiness. book,” said Cathy with gleam in her eye, from a lookout above the hamlet of Anaru (French thinking naturally of accommodating a film Pass), which is also a way for accessing D’Urville That done, we anchored for the night crew for the duration of the shoot. But that’s Island by water taxi. For spectacular views time at Catherine Cove and experienced the all in the future. Perhaps. your land-based trip see what boaties avoid – superlative aroma of Cathy’s kitchen at the a full flood tidal stream from west to east! 10. Wilderness Lodge there, just as she was grill- Again, we appreciated the value of this kind Graham Smith with some of his collection of 150 ing huge trays of crayfish for visitors, in her of slowed-down travel: finding the extraor- Seagull outboards in Havelock in Pelorus Sound. His ‘cook your catch’ deal. She told us they took a dinary stories of New Zealanders and their shed is just off the main road and opposite the pub. real hit at their remote lodge during the Covid sense of place in the most unlikely of places. He’s usually available for a yarn with Seagull fans years, but had recovered with a bang, as “we’re 11. Whakatahuri boatyard and ship wrecker, in the the closest thing to an overseas destination.” Speaking of which, later in the Marlborough outer Pelorus Sound – accessible via the Havelock She’s right – D’Urville Island is indeed a world Sounds we pulled in at Whakatahuri, the most mailboat, once a week 12. Martin and Lisa Bennett remote boat builders – and boat-wreckers – outside The Laboratory, their boutique brewery, café yard in New Zealand, situated on a narrow and community cinema in Lincoln spit of land in the remote outer Pelorus Sound. No road access, though you can visit when the mail-run boat from Havelock deliv- ers their groceries once a week. For anyone with an interest in old boats, shipwrecks, unique boat restoration projects – or just as a photographer’s heaven – this is one off-the- beaten track adventure to recommend. 11 12 35www.rvmagazine.co.nz

We found ourselves detained in the little 13 Lyttelton is a cornucopia of interesting cafés town of Havelock, for all the right reasons. and sculptures, like the bronze husky outside There’s so much to explore here: like the lovely of the great self-guided Port Underwood the library, a tribute to those loaded aboard wee local museum; or the amazing hidden art Heritage Trail app. Extraordinary stories – ships heading to the Antarctic last century. It gallery upstairs in the corridors and rooms like that of Jackie Guard, who challenged Te has shiny ears from everyone fondling them! of the Havelock pub, displaying almost the Rauparaha to step over a line in the sand and entire oeuvre of the unknown, under-appre- fight – unusually for him he declined; or the Next came a daytime sail around to Akaroa, ciated folk artist Oriwa Haddon; or Graham African American, an ex-slave and whaler, accompanied all the way by many different Smith’s extraordinary shrine to that oddity who set up a homestead there, with his wife, groups of the charming wee Hector’s dol- of engineering, the British Seagull outboard a Chatham Island Moriori, also an ex-slave. phins. There we gained another insight into motor – he has more than 150 of them(!) in New Zealand’s future tourism prospects when his workshop, just off the main street. Then followed a difficult overnight passage we noticed bold over-printing on the nauti- to Lyttleton – when we had rising wind and cal charts: NO VESSELS OVER 40m. Turns I asked his son Vinnie, “How does it feel to sea, cold, no stars, and had to slow the boat out the Akaroa locals – all 600 of them – be part of an eccentric outfit?” down to make Lyttleton Port in daylight – had second thoughts about the ‘Disneyland during which Lesley and my daughter Zoë madness’ of the pre-Covid thing of up to four “Mate,” he replied, “it’s way worse than asked, “Are we really enjoying this?” All was cruise ships a day in their lovely harbour. No that.” made up for by the 50 common dolphins that more though – Lyttleton is now building a welcomed us at dawn in the harbour entrance new dedicated cruise ship dock. The Te Hoiere Seagull Fleet (there are with a full-on kapa haka display – I’d swear others of their ilk in Havelock) organise races they were paid by the town council – and the But we found Akaroa doing just fine. The in the Pelorus River delta every two months. many Hector’s dolphins later seen there too. four dolphins tours outfits, including one The rules: any boat will do – the weirder, the on the 100-year-old sailing boat Fox II, were better – as long as it’s propelled by a Seagull Of course Lisa had already got there by taking out visitors every day – Kiwi visitors outboard. The races are preceded by a skite- campervan and was aboard Champagne in the re-discovering their own country. yer-boat procession down the main street. It fine new marina in Lyttleton. She and Martin appears it’s de rigeur for each boat to have a invited all fellow Island Cruisers to their bou- We had to bail from there, as work com- colourful homemade flag as well. tique brewery and restaurant and community mitments – and the uncooperative weather cinema, ‘The Laboratory’ in Lincoln, another windows – meant we had to head back north, The elusive weather windows (remember post-earthquake and post-Covid success along the east coast past the dramatic Wair- them) kept us detained in the Marlborough story and another must-visit for any South arapa coast, all the while marking places to Sounds for weeks. As a hostage situation, just Island traveller. By the way, the little town of visit from the land sometime soon – like the fine by us. And time to explore further. Like light show at the Castlepoint lighthouse. finding the best secondhand bookshop in the main street of Picton – open only when the Meanwhile Martin, Champagne and the owner is not walking his new puppy. Or the other yachts continued with the full figure- wonderful bird sanctuary on Motuara Island, of-eight, via Rakiura Stewart Island and accessible from Picton by water taxi or your Fiordland, and back to Nelson, followed on own runabout. Bird-watching in the Sounds land by Lisa and the dog in the campervan, is a treat. Among New Zealand’s rare birds, no collecting more terrific stories for post-Covid one ever seems to talk about the kawau king exploring New Zealand. Way to go! shag. Only 130 breeding pairs left, almost all in Queen Charlotte Sound. Well worth pho- tographing – and easy too, as they visit your boat looking for handouts. Our next overnight anchorage after exit- ing the also-notorious Tory Channel (tide of up to seven knots) was in Port Underwood, which is well worth exploring with the help 14 13. In Akaroa Harbour, Fox II enjoying taking Kiwi visitors out to see New Zealand’s special Hector’s 36 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022 dolphins 14. The dramatic Cape Turnagain, on the Wairarapa Coast, east of Herbertville. This is where Captain Cook doubled back, after confirming by his circumnavigation that the North Island was indeed an island

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READERS RAMBLE Paparoa Track Great Walk Alpine forests to Moonlight Tops Long-time readers Linda and Bruce Irving shared a recent adventure they undertook, with three friends from Hamilton, a guided four-day hike of the Paparoa Track. Story Linda and Bruce Irving Photos Linda-Bruce or as credited 1 2 3 38 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

5 4 LPAPAROA TRACK GREAT WALK walking poles, sleeping bags, etc.; however, 6 ast March we (a group of Hamiltonians) these were supplied by PGW and were walked the Heaphy Track, known for included in our costs. to medium size rocks so good footwear is being the longest of the Great Walks. After essential.Five hours later we arrived at the Ces completing it we all decided to look for Our first night’s stay was at the Punakaiki Clark Hut named after Ces Clark who was another walk to tackle. One of the group had Beach Camp where we had a basic Riverside prominent in preserving historic sites includ- heard about a new walk which had recently Cabin. The cabin was clean and tidy with a ing the first section of the Paparoa Track. It been added to the list of New Zealand Great nice small deck. is said he died just as the first footings of the Walks, a four-day hike through the Paparoa hut were being poured in 1986. The hut pro- National Park. This park, located between DAY 1 – PUNAKAIKI TO CES vides accommodation for 16 people in bunks Westport and Greymouth offers a number of CLARK HUT in two separate rooms. The huts are basic and excellent walks such as so the Tasman/West DIFFICULTY – MODERATE provide gas burners for cooking, a sink with Coast area is very much the mecca for hiking, 10.3KM (6.4 MILES), 4–5 HOURS running cold water, and a wood/coal fire. running and biking. Ablutions consist of an outside long-drop. The next morning we were transported to the The Paparoa Track was opened in Decem- start of our walk at the Smoke-ho carpark This was the first opportunity to meet ber  2019 and is purpose built, providing near Blackball, a 45-minute drive down the fellow trampers and also test out our guide’s shared use for bikers and trampers. The walk coast from the camping ground. Steve, our cooking skills. Much to the envy of the other crosses the Paparoa ranges between Blackball van driver, was excellent with his knowledge trampers we were presented with a cheese and Punakaiki through alpine tops, limestone providing us with information about histori- platter followed by a very nice pasta meal. karst landscape and thriving rainforests. cal sites and places such as Blackball (home of the ‘Formerly the Blackball Hilton’ hotel), and We were treated to a remarkable rainbow Hurrah! After two failed attempts due to the memorial for the Brunner Mine disaster which gave everyone a spectacular photo Covid-19 cancellations we finally set off from in Brunnerton (now Brunner) on March 26, opportunity, and looking out from the hut we Hamilton to Auckland, flying from there to 1896 when 65 miners lost their lives. could see the outline of our walk for the next Nelson. Travelling from Nelson to Punakaiki day through the alpine scrub on the ridge of (start point of our walk) was approximately The first part of our journey was a 10km the Paparoa Ranges. a four-hour drive. We hired a vehicle from walk to Ces Clark Hut along the Croesus Apex Car Rental at Nelson Airport and drove Track. This part of the track is the oldest sec- 1. Photo reflects the rock scene at Punakaiki Beach from Nelson to Murchison where we stopped tion, dating back to the mid-1800s when it and the Pancake Rocks that lies on the edge of the for lunch before continuing on to Punakaiki, was built and used by miners in the 1860s to Paparoa National Park 2. One of a number of Swing arriving there around 5pm, in time for a travel between Blackball and the west coast. or suspension bridges, often limited to 1 person on pre-walk briefing from Dion Findlay from This is mainly uphill and was the first test of a bridge 3. Views from Ces Clark Hut – the rainbow Paparoa Guided Walks (PGW). We had our fitness. Our group had an average age of in the distance was a bonus 4. Views of the Pancake decided to do a guided walk, this having the 58 – which was greatly reduced by Erica who Rocks. Board walk allows you to see many different advantages of not having to carry and prepare was the youngest in the group at age 30. sides of the rocks 5. Croesus Top Hut 1930’s Miners our meals, as well as having someone who Hut 6. The team Dave, Richard, Bruce, Dion and knows the history of the area to talk about We had a short break at the ‘first hotel’ Linda taking up the rear other points of interest along the walk. site (1868) where we met a group of fellow trampers, then after another 40-or-so minutes 39www.rvmagazine.co.nz Dion took us through the health and safety we stopped at the ‘second hotel’ site. There protocols as well as providing us with com- are some remnants of the hotels still visible plimentary drink bottles, bags of snacks, and at each stop. We continued onwards and some reading material. Some of our group upwards, testing our fitness and providing a didn’t have the required 40-litre backpack, good workout for calf and thigh muscles. The track itself is very rocky consisting of small

78 DAY 2 – CES CLARK HUT TO predicted 20mm of rain, so with wet weather in honour of the 29 men who lost their lives MOONLIGHT TOPS HUT gear on we set off for our 10km walk to Moon- in the Pike River Mine disaster of Novem- DIFFICULTY – EASY light Tops hut, but after a short distance the ber  19, 2010. We were treated with views 9.7KM (6 MILES), 3–4 HOURS mist burnt off as the sun appeared and the wet of the Tasman sea as well as amazing views weather gear was put away. across the Paparoa National Park ranges. It We woke to a beautiful misty morning. Dion was good to see both runners and bike riders made a lovely breakfast of toast with avocado This day was a little easier than the first day. using the track, but to be fair this track is for complete with other spreads, plus coffee, and Climbing to approximately 1000 metres, this experienced bikers only. this gave us a good start for the day’s walk. was the newest section of the track, taking around two years to build. The track was built We were curious as to what we would The weather forecast the night before Immerse yourself in over 100 years of history at one of the most iconic hotels on the west coast • Enjoy friendly atmosphere at our renowned Provisioning by… restaurant and bar where you can meet the locals. www.foodscapes.co.nz • Cosy accommodation with room for groups. • Powered motorhome sites available • Free WIFI 26 Hart St, Blackball · 04 3732 4705 · [email protected] · www.blackballhilton.co.nz 40 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

9 10 be having for lunch and were not disap- rooms accommodating 20 people, and the 11 pointed. Dion laid out a small table cloth views were stunning. and effortlessly made sandwiches followed by fresh fruit. We decided to have some quiet time resting on the bunks but were woken shortly after We arrived at the hut a little exhausted but with the building shaking; what was going in good spirits, and again the hut had the on? We checked both inside and outside the FULL sign out. The hut was only two years hut for any disturbances but found nothing old, so it was very comfortable with a large so assumed it must have been an earthquake. kitchen/dining area and two separate bunk This was later confirmed by Geonet – there had been a light earthquake in Greymouth. That night we had a visit from the DOC warden, who gave us some insight to the area. Dinner was worth the wait – vegetarian curry on couscous. Our fellow trampers were once again watching in awe as they cooked up their dry food, so we felt we were being treated pretty special. 7. Views from up high with the sun setting 8. Young plant growth appearing in rocks 9. A slow and steady climb upwards along the 3 km long Pike Escarpment 10. Croesus Knob viewing point, Bruce making sure we know where we are. 11. Rock Face with granite seams 12 12. Photo shot of group (L-R) Richard, Bruce, Linda, Dave and our guide Dion on right. Photo taken by Erica Mention this ad and receive a FREE coffee! Offer only valid until 30 November 2022 41www.rvmagazine.co.nz

13 14 15 DAY 3 – MOONLIGHT TOPS The views were stunning as we walked some workers erecting a shelter near the HUT TO PORORARI HUT along the top of the escarpment and rid- emergency hut. Following recent bad weather DIFFICULTY – MODERATE gelines. This is when we got to see the Pike the track maintenance team had been work- 19.1KM (11.8 MILES), 5–7 HOURS River Mine ventilation shaft and a helicopter ing, dynamiting the side walls of the track and pad used by the company to transport staff making it wider, as there had been some slips This was the longest day with 19km to walk, and supplies to the mine. If we had not had a in this area. The trackwork shows the deter- and we needed to have an early start. So after guide, we would not have known to look for mination by all the community and DOC to a hearty breakfast we were on our way for day these features. make this a destination track, safe for walkers, three, destination Pororari hut which we had bikers and runners in all types of weather. seen in the distance from Moonlight Tops hut This was an amazing part of the walk with the previous evening, with Dion pointing out the landscape changing from alpine scrub to The last kilometre was the hardest as it was the path we would be travelling. It looked a forest. We had to stop many times to take in mainly uphill and after having completed very long way through the vast and beautiful the spectacular views around us. 18km was rather unexpected. But when we alpine forest. arrived at the Pororari Hut we were again Partway along the track, we came upon 16 VISITING THE WEST COAST? COME AND STAY IN OUR TINY HOUSES AT THE DOOR STEP TO THE PAPAROA TRACK www.paparoaaccommodation.co.nz 42 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

17 18 treated to absolutely amazing views. This transported home. 13. Spectacular views of the valley hut, just like the Moonlight Tops Hut is a The camp warden had been working on 14. Walking track through a canopy new one, having only recently been com- of moss-covered trees 15. Full team pleted, and it was full that night with both the track most of the day and joined us in photo (l- R) Erica, Dion, Richard, Linda, cyclists and hikers. the evening to tell us some stories about the Bruce and Dave area and the do’s and don’ts for using the 16. Bruce taking a break to look out The hut also has a helicopter pad which is huts. Raz was good fun and mentioned she over the tree tops 17. Mix of vegetation often used by DOC. The workers who had had a lost property bin containing mostly including twisted trees which survive been working on the shelter were coming to undergarments if anyone was in need the West Coast winters 18. Variation the end of their work week and had packaged of these. Raz must be a good asset to the of rock formation looking over the up all their equipment, including bikes, and Conservation Department with her wide Paparoa Range Gully tree tops were then picked up by the helicopter and knowledge of the area. Carry Less, Enjoy More Our all-inclusive trip includes Virgin temperate rainforests, tussock mountaintops, pristine rivers, immense limestone cliffs, and crashing oceans. If you seek big country, new wilderness frontiers and • Transport to the beginning of the track. untamed trails going guided with Paparoa Guided Walks is the adventure for you. • 3 nights’ accommodation in remote backcountry huts. • All meals throughout the duration of the trip, made from fresh ingredients and carried by your guide. • Complimentary use of lightweight down sleeping bag, 40L backpack, and carbon fiber hiking poles. • The company of a local, knowledgeable and qualified guide. www.paparoaguidedwalks.com | 027 7272762 | [email protected] 43www.rvmagazine.co.nz

20 19 21 DAY 4 – PORORARI HUT diverged – walkers followed the Pororari Camp where we had begun just four days ago, TO PUNAKAIKI River Track which skirts the lower gorge where a shower and a visit to the tavern were DIFFICULTY – MODERATE with its striking limestone cliffs. The land- on our priority list. 16KM, (10 MILES) 4–5 HOURS scape continued to change around us and we found we were walking next to some amazing This was a great track and indeed a Great We woke to another brilliant day weath- cliffs which we had been admiring only four NZ Walk. Our advice to anyone looking to er-wise, with breakfast consisting of porridge days earlier. Over the previous three days the tick off this walk is to be fit and have a great and coffee. track had not shown any effects of the heavy pair of shoes. The rocky terrain takes some rain experienced by the West Coast in Febru- getting used to – for us oldies anyway. Thank This was the easiest section of the walk with ary this year. However, there was one section you to Dion from Paparoa Guided Walks for the track descending and following the upper where there was a slip that exposed an amaz- sharing this experience with our group. Pororari River valley, just above the river ing view of the cliffs above us, while the gorge itself, until it joined an old pack track built was lined with lush rainforest, a confusion 19. Large palm trees to establish a settlement in the upper valley. of nīkau palms and kiekie hanging off giant 20. The last part of the track almost at the finishing podocarps that gave way upriver to temperate line are Richard & daughter Erica There was an opportunity to swim in the beech forest. 21. The end of our walk (Dave is missing – getting river and Dion took advantage of it, his com- an early shower) panion being a friendly eel. This led us back to the Punakaiki Beach 22. Punakaiki rock formation. Pancake rocks At the junction with the historic Inland Pack Track, walkers and mountain bikers Beach front bed & breakfast on the Punakaiki coastline 14kms north of Greymouth, ideally located for both the Photos by: Shakey Finger Photography West Coast Wilderness Trail and the Paparoa Track. With 2 acres of native bush and landscaped gardens Breakers overlooks the Tasman Sea with private access to remote West Coast beach. Four guest rooms with en-suite bathroom, balcony access and fantastic sea views so you can relax after your hiking/biking trip. Lie in bed and watch the rolling surf and be lulled to sleep by the sound of the breaking waves. Check our website for current packages including West Coast Wilderness Trail and Paparoa Track options. Come share our little slice of paradise… For bookings email: [email protected] Ph 03 762 7743 | www.breakers.co.nz 44 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

22 SOUTH CANTERBURY OUTSTANDING FOOD FESTIVAL 16 - 30 SEPTEMBER 2022 SEPTEMBER 2021 45www.rvmagazine.co.nz

OFF-ROAD TRIP Central Otago Killingtwobirds withonestone Allan Dick goes to the remote and lonely Serpentine church and then the Buster Diggings, where he gets angry. Story Allan Dick Photos Allan Dick and Helen Harrison 1 46 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022

2 and bust, Otago gold-mining adventures. It’s a vast, remote area of rolling, high-country I n late summer last year I faced up to, tussock land set in a giant wedge bounded on and conquered, a personal fear – the one side by the Old Dunstan Trail and on the fear of driving solo from Piano Flat in other by the Lake Onslow Road. And you will northern Southland to Shingle Creek be hearing a lot more about Lake Onslow in via the infamous Waikaia Bush track. I had the next year or so – it could be ‘the saviour’ been warned – “never attempt it by yourself, of New Zealand. there are too many places you will get stuck.” The Serpentine is more than just ‘an area’: It certainly was a challenge, but we made it. there was once, briefly, a sizeable enough When you are doing four-wheel driving, it’s sort of town, large enough for some to think not so much the boulders, river crossings or that a church was needed to look after the steep ascents and descents that are the con- souls of the miners who lived, worked cern because commonsense should prevail. – and drank – there. So an appeal was No, the villain is mud – it’s so unpredictable. launched and enough money (£100) was And mud was the reason I had never raised to build a church – the Serpentine attempted another of the legends of Central Union Church – and it opened in July 1873. Otago trails – the Serpentine. The Serpentine was one of those early, boom 3 1. The Serpentine Church, built in 1873 2. On the road with two vehicles heading into Central Otago 3. Someone’s gone to a lot of trouble to make this sign — first they cut out a piece of a 44 gallon drum, rolled it flat and then cut the wording in with a ‘gas axe’ — work for a winter’s day perhaps 47www.rvmagazine.co.nz

45 One can only imagine how unbearably cold it boasted. By the time the minister arrived they closed and the building was converted into a would have been there in mid-winter and at a were all in fine, raucous shape. house until the gold ran out and the town of height of 3100 feet above sea level – tempera- Serpentine vanished off the face of the earth tures of minus 20 and waist-deep snow would The service opened with a well-known and reverted to tussock. have been common. hymn which the miners sang lustily and enjoyed it so much they demanded an encore. Except for the church! Remarkably, it still The minister was from out of town and he The minister, angered by the boisterous and exists in solitary splendour between the tus- arrived late for the first service understand- stroppy behaviour, closed the service down. sock and the outcrops of Central Otago schist. able given the remoteness of this region. Tired of waiting, the impatient miners decided to That was almost that. While there were There is a loop road off the Old Dunstan march off to the local hotel that the town other services over the next year or so, they Trail which I have passed on the many times were infrequent and finally the church was I have driven over this legendary, original DisGcroeuantts! Frjoeien!To Its time to discover New Zealand! Save money on accommodation, fun activities, restaurants and cafes, Bluebridge ferry crossings and more! Sign up today for FREE! WWW.STAYKIWI.COM 48 Vol 17 July-Aug 2022