Spotlight Sweet ESCAPE Luscious candy-coloured gemstones form a precious bouquet in this magnificent high jewellery necklace from Gucci’s Hortus Deliciarum collection. Words CELINE YAP COURTESY OF GUCCI Alessandro Michele’s fantasy high jewellery world, poetic universe of botanicals. This necklace in white gold fringed Hortus Deliciarum, returns in 2021. This time inspired by diamonds set en tremblant brings to mind bucolic imagery of by the mesmeric hues of the sky at various times of the a Garden of Eden blooming with flowers and ripe with fruit— day, the collection draws on symbolic motifs dear to the exactly the kind of maximalism that Michele is known for. creative director’s heart, as well as Gucci’s favourite icons. Pink imperial topaz meets rubellites, peridots nestle The majestic beauty of the natural world is distilled into against orange stones from citrines and imperial topazes to four chapters, first an ode to natural landscapes, then a hat-tip mandarin garnets, with tourmalines, cuprian tourmalines and to the fleeting magic of nightfall. The next chapter revisits the diamonds rounding off the list. Obviously Michele wouldn’t call it animal kingdom and finally the collection delves into a romantic a day with only a circlet of gemstones, hence the diamond ribbon rose garden, providing a delicate and feminine narrative made (removable) centrepiece featuring an iridescent black opal that up of rococo bows and talismanic sautoirs to pay homage to the brings all the colours to the yard. 95
VITRINE Trends 3. 4. 2. 1. 6. 5. 7. 5. 8. IcedGEMS Packing megawatt sparkle, these gem-set iced-out miniature disco balls will be the life of every party. Edit CELINE YAP 1. Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 Limited Edition in white gold with pavé diamonds, price upon request 2. Cartier Pasha de Cartier in white gold with emeralds, onyx and pavé diamonds, price upon request 3. Chopard Alpine Eagle Frozen in ethical white gold entirely set with diamonds, $214,500 4. Patek Philippe Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Ref 7118 in white gold with diamonds in random pavé setting, price upon request 5. Roger Dubuis Velvet Platinum 38mm with full baguette diamond pavé, $1.96 million 6. Vacheron Constantin Égérie moon phase jewellery in white gold with brilliant-cut diamond pavé, price upon request 7. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm in white gold with full diamond pavé, CHF156,100 8. Piaget Polo Date High Jewellery 36mm in white gold with full diamond pavé, price upon request 96
Jewellery Lucky in Set with a plethora of LOVE colourful gemstones including rhodonite Set with auspicious gems in all colour tones, (top left), the Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels’ Vintage Alhambra Alhambra’s quatrefoil pendants are the lucky charms every fashion motif symbolises faith, girl really wants. hope, love, and luck. PHOTOGRAPHY ERIK MADIGAN HECK TWords CELINEYAP o be lucky, you have to believe in luck,” as Jacques Arpels used to say, and he definitely was a believer. A born collector, he enjoyed gathering four-leaf clovers in the garden of his house in Germigny-l’Évêque. But rather than keep them for himself, he’d give them to his staff, accompanied by the poem ‘Don’t Quit’ by John Greenleaf Whittier. As an encouragement to never give up hope, no doubt, and a sentiment echoed in the iconic Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection. Its quatrefoil motif derives directly from the four-leaf clover, where each leaf represents faith, hope, love and luck. But while Alhambra was introduced in 1968—as a response to the growing demand for a more accessible line of everyday wearable jewellery—Van Cleef & Arpels had drawn inspiration from this lucky shrub as early as in the 1920s. The notion of jewellery as a precious talisman or good luck charm always resonated with this maison, for whom beautiful ornamental gemstones and crystals were a permanent obsession. In addition to classics such as mother-of-pearl, onyx, turquoise and carnelian, Van Cleef & Arpels constantly broadens the Alhambra collection with stones of all colours and symbolisms. Green malachite, tiger’s eye, chalcedony, coral, lapis lazuli, letterwood and blue agate have all made special appearances in the Alhambra collection, with 2021 welcoming the first Alhambra pendant featuring rhodonite, a rosy pink stone flecked with light brown inclusions and delicate white crystals. Known as the ‘rescue stone’ for its healing properties, rhodonite was a favourite of the Russian czars and often gifted at royal weddings. In this limited-edition Vintage Alhambra pendant, the stone’s delicate pink hue is accentuated with a single bezel-set round diamond and hemmed with elegant golden beads of rose gold. If you’re lucky enough to score one, you could even have a little message or a name engraved on the back, while the truly blessed would be receiving it for Christmas come December. 97
VITRINE Timepieces Artistic Flinqué enamel HARMONY combines hand- engraved guilloché with transparent grand feu enamel to create radiant patterns that reflect a beautiful play of light. Patek Philippe raises the bar for ladies Ref 7040/250G-001 Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater complicated watches as well as métiers d’arts delves into a lesser known style of enamelling known as the timepieces by combining them in its latest Rare flinqué technique, where the artist first engraves the dial with Handcrafts Minute Repeater, a watch you do intricate patterns, such as sunbursts or waves, and then applies not wear just to read the time, but also to hear it. a layer or several layers of translucent enamel over it. Once on the verge of extinction, flinqué enamel is frequently seen in Fabergé TWords CELINE YAP eggs as well as many of Patek Philippe’s dome clocks. With this he pride of Swiss watchmaking, classical métiers exquisite timepiece, the manufacture realised a gold dial plate fully d’arts occupies a special place at Patek Philippe. guillochéd by hand in a gently undulated sunburst motif that brings From grand feu enamelling to hand-engraving to mind an earlier one-of-a-kind piece known as Ref 992/137G-001 and every artisanal technique in between, the Siamese Fighting Fish pocket watch. manufacture cultivates them all—not just to decorate its watches but also to preserve these time- Its meandering waves radiate outwards from its centre, honoured crafts for the next generation. Applying them in special resembling the movements of a dancing Siamese fighting fish, or creations new and old, Patek Philippe has amassed a stellar Rare a vortex under crystal blue waters courtesy of the hand-painted Handcrafts collection, which saw six new models introduced transparent blue enamel. Coming in direct contact with the gold this year, one of which is this feminine haute horlogerie piece guilloché dial beneath, it throws up an incredible play of light that marries watchmaking artistry with two kinds of traditional not seen in other forms of enamel painting. Flinqué enamel thus métiers d’arts. involves two very distinctive art forms in the métiers d’arts realm, both of which are notoriously difficult to master. Enamel painting in the traditional style is a painstaking process that begins with coloured enamel glass ground by 98
Patek Philippe’s exclusive Flamme technique sets diamonds on slotted prongs, which helps diffuse light from underneath the gemstones. Gem-setting is one of Patek Philippe’s many time-honoured métiers. hand with a mortar and pestle. Once the glass pieces have been many time-honoured métiers after all. Immediately distinguished pulverised into a fine powder, the artisan stirs it with a little water from the standard diamond setting style, which arranges the or oil and paints the mixture over the dial. Next comes a stage gemstones in twin lines, Flamme is exclusive to Patek Philippe that can literally be called trial by fire as the dial goes through and patented by the manufacture. The technique is unique for a successive firings in a high-fire kiln, vitrifying the enamel mixture final special touch where the artisan uses a sharp engraving tool to reveal its true colours. Finally the enamel is evened down and to cut notches in the gold between the individual stones. This polished so it reflects a soft glow regardless of which angle the allows light to reflect off those additional edges, setting off the fire light is coming from. of the diamonds from below while adding a delicate and refined aesthetic to the prongs. On the other hand, guilloché is the creation of fine lines and patterns on the dial using traditional rose engine lathes. There’s These exquisite rare handcrafts converge in one of Patek no heat involved, but this ancient machinery is as big as an office Philippe’s most venerated and yet elusive grand complications: bureau and yet in the artwork that comes out of them, you see the minute repeater. So Ref 7040/250G-001 isn’t just a pretty face, networks of intricate lines within millimetres of one another. And but a magnificent triple threat that also brings mechanical finesse they can be adjusted to the nearest 100 microns—literally a hair’s and luxury pedigree to the table, for it takes over from where the breadth. To execute each dial calls for more than sharp eyes and manufacture’s first ladies minute repeater, Ref 7000R-001, left a pair of steady hands, but also inordinate amounts of patience off. Chiming the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, it is as one can take several hours or more than a day to complete, beautiful on the inside and out, as the Patek Philippe Calibre R 27 depending on the design. PS is a miniature tour de force unto itself—expertly finished and tuned to perfection. Framing this serene blue dial is a circlet of sparkling diamonds in two offset rows using what Patek Philippe has named And if you love watches as much as Patek Philippe does, the Flamme technique. Gem-setting is one of Patek Philippe’s that cannot be anything but music to your ears. 99
VOGUE Partnership Mad LOVE There’s no colour too bright, no idea too wild and no concept too extreme for a Richard Mille ladies timepiece. H Words CELINEYAP with Bonbon, every model is slightly different from the others but ere are some things that have no apparent together they build towards a common vision—a process that’s not link with one another, but are definitely unlike couturiers who design multiple outfits in a single collection connected because of Richard Mille. for the season. Indeed, the worlds of art, fashion, cars and music Miami’s eclectic South Beach district. constantly inspire Richard Mille. As such, every timepiece has a The ’70s disco era. An all-women classic distinctive personality reflecting the emotional qualities of joy, racing team. Futuristic high-performance machines. Tribal art. French pastries and passion and artistry. a fruit basket. Individually they sound But while the goal is to design watches in numerous like topics you might find on another episode of Jeopardy!. But variations, each specific reference is only produced in extremely collectively, this diverse assembly weaves a creative and ever- limited quantities. From the classic RM 07-01 set with breath- growing tapestry that presents the inspirational origin stories of taking gemstones to one-of-a-kind complication models co- all Richard Mille feminine timepieces. created with the likes of Michelle Yeoh or Pharrell Williams, a Rather than designing around a watch, Richard Mille Richard Mille watch is all about exclusivity. For the most part, you prefers to treat its timepieces as miniature, never get see these rare timepieces too often, three-dimensional blank canvases, allowing but when you do, they’re always on the wrists the designer to play the role of an artist. The end of society’s A-List trendsetters. And you can’t miss them because these watches are designed Every timepieceresults become vastly different because here is a creative mind that’s completely liberated of the to dazzle. Shimmering with brilliant diamonds, has a distinctiveminute confines of the watch, and that feels free to explore anything around the world. personality. its latest models bring the art of gem-setting Every timepiece design expresses a towards new frontiers. Diamond-paved carbon, statement that makes it instantly recognisable diamond-paved ceramic and snow-setting on as a Richard Mille at a distance, whether round, gold showcase the brand’s spirited approach to rectangular or tonneau-shaped. Says Richard Mille’s creative the traditional métiers d’arts. and development director, Cécile Guenat: “An essential aspect of RM 07-01 Starry Night (pictured below) upped the ante making watches for women is creating and exploring new choices by embedding round diamonds in shiny red gold prongs set into at every level.” Carbon TPT®, offering a bold new aesthetic that’s never-before- Guenat is the creative energy behind some of Richard seen in modern watchmaking. Meanwhile, Richard Mille’s latest Mille’s most exuberant new collections to date. The crazy but open link bracelet boldly features red gold intertwined with Carbon captivating Bonbon collection launched in 2019 was one of her TPT® not just for the case but also the links. These showstopping early coups and it ushered timepieces embody Richard in a new era for Richard Mille’s innovative spirit in Mille. Based on several design and the technical classic models, the collection savoir faire that is unique evoked French confections to this extraordinary 21st- and candied fruit through century watchmaker. traditional grand feu enamel “Richard Mille is a and high-tech materials. serious brand that breaks the Although many regard it as codes,” says Guenat. a feminine collection, it was Tradition empowers not conceived for any specific it to move ahead, not stay gender and the watches are rooted in the past. By being PHOTOGRAPHY LILAS LE QUELLEC popular with men as well passionate about its craft as women. and devoting its essence to She followed up finding the next best thing in swiftly with the RM 71-02 haute horlogerie, Richard Mille Tourbillon Talisman line, has pushed the envelope in which plays with flashy watchmaking further than glittery colours channelling it’s ever been, and it’s all part Studio 54-esque glamour and of the picture within its ever- amusement. In this series, as growing tapestry. 100
With diamond-paved carbon, diamond paved ceramic, and snow-setting on gold, Richard Mille brings the art of gem-setting to new frontiers. 101
VITRINE Style BRIGHT lights ’Tis the season to be radiant, so break out the baubles and let it shine Photography WARD IVAN RAFIK Styling XANDER ANG
THIS PAGE Giorgio Armani vest top and trousers; Van Cleef & Arpels Palmyre necklace and bracelet in white gold and diamonds, and À Cheval bracelet in yellow gold and diamonds FACING PAGE Emporio Armani coat; Bulgari high jewellery Serpenti necklace in white gold with blue sapphires and pavé diamonds, and high jewellery ring in yellow gold with mother-of-pearl, one cushion-cut blue sapphire, emeralds and pavé diamonds
THIS PAGE Giorgio Armani turtleneck top; Giambattista Valli jacket; Boucheron Contemplation Papillon Argent necklace, Ciel ce Jour ring in white gold with rock crystal and diamonds, and Contemplation Grisgrain bracelet with aventurine, cacholong and diamonds FACING PAGE Dolce&Gabbana dress; Boucheron Plume de Paon Question Mark pink gold necklace set with a 12.41-carat pink tourmaline, and Hopi the Hummingbird ring in white and pink gold set with one oval morganite, diamonds, blue and pink sapphires; gloves, stylist’s own
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VITRINE Style
THIS PAGE Louis Vuitton dress; Le Talisman necklace and ring in white and yellow gold, diamonds and lapis-lazuli; Pure V bracelet and ring in white gold with onyx and diamonds; La Cavaliere earrings in white gold with diamonds FACING PAGE Emporio Armani dress, Chaumet Torsade de Chaumet necklace in white gold set with a 2.22-carat ascher-cut diamonds, a 1.51-carat ascher-cut diamond, and brilliant-cut diamonds
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THIS PAGE Giorgio Armani vest; Chaumet Lacis necklace and earrings in white gold set with rubellites and brilliant- cut diamonds FACING PAGE Chanel jacket, corset and skirt; Franges Swing necklace, Diamant Evanescent earrings, Comète DD bracelet, and Infinite ring, all in white gold and diamonds Hair, Chiao Chenet/Bryant Artists; make-up, Mayumi Oda/Bryant Artists; manicure, Laura Forget/ Artlist; model, Aivita Mūze/ Viva Model Management; photographer’s assistants, Jeanne Le Louarn, Helene Huet and Theo; stylist’s assistant, Francesca Riccardi; producer, White Dot; casting, Emilie Astrom; digital operator, Sabine Raillard.
DESIGN Picks 5. 2. 1. 4. 3. 7. 6. COMPILED BY AMELIA CHIA, CHANDREYEE RAY AND ISABELLA LOK THEWanderlust EDIT In the spirit of travel’s slow but steady return, Vogue rounds up a selection of holiday-inspired items and places to keep in mind for your next getaway—or daydream. Words CHANDREYEE RAY 1. Apple AirTag Hermès bag charm, $439. Crafted from Barenia calfskin, this charm will ensure that not only will you never lose your bags, you’ll also have the chicest luggage around. 2. Ruinart Second Skin Blanc de Blancs, $126. Nothing says holiday like a luxurious glass of champagne. What’s better—this one comes in sustainable packaging. 3. JBL Club One, $539. These powerful and adaptable headphones will block out all sound but your music of choice for a truly relaxing retreat. 4. Patina Maldives. Immersed in lush nature and centred in wellness, this new Maldivian resort is a slice of paradise on Earth. 5. Samsung Galaxy Z Flip3 5G, from $1,389. For hands-free video calls or selfies from your best angles—this new device is flexible, compact and will be a reliable travel buddy. 6. Making Kin: Ecofeminist Essays from Singapore, $25, from Ethos Books. Support local literature and make your next plane read an educational one. 7. Wild (2014). Curl up on your couch and join Reese Witherspoon on her introspective journey into the great outdoors. 110
LIFE Profile HEARTtoHEART Heart Evangelista is an actress, artist, luxury influencer, socialite and entrepreneur. She shares about her life in the limelight and how her struggle with her mental health has made her realise that the role she excels in the most is where she is just being herself. Photography BJ PASCUAL Styling KAT CRUZ-VILLANUEVA Words SANDHYA MAHADEVAN 111
t’s 5pm on a Wednesday in Singapore and Heart “I grew up around people Evangelista is speaking to me via a Zoom call who always dressed from her home in the Philippines. She apologises very well, loved fashion, quickly for the ambient noises and the flurry of culture and the arts.” activity around her. “They are preparing dinner,” men in the Philippines would feel any of the emotions she felt on Ishe says. Then, picking up her laptop between her that day. manicured hands, she gives me a virtual tour of her home. Or so I think, but Evangelista is in fact To put things in perspective, let’s go back a few years. Born looking for a better angle for the interview. She quickly veers away Love Marie Ongpauco, Evangelista was barely 13 when she first from a corridor view with an “Oh, too much glare”, and settles back faced the camera as an actress. In fact, she has been surrounded at the first spot. We are barely five minutes into the interview, and by all things show business since the day she was born: her I can already see that things like the right articulation, lighting and grandparents were owners of a production company called location are all second nature to her. The first lady of the province Everlasting Pictures; and her family owns the Barrio Fiesta chain of Sorsogon—her husband Francis Escudero is the governor—has of restaurants in the Philippines, which has since its early days it all under control. been a hotspot for celebrities, local and foreign. “It’s been a bit hectic,” she says. “I just came out of a locked- in taping for a telenovela, but I managed to take off to celebrate my “We would have these performances in the restaurant, what husband’s birthday.” She is excited that the network agreed to her we call the ‘singing cooks and waiters’, and I would also perform pitch for a series on her current hometown, called I Left My Heart with them when I was very young,” she recalls with a smile. Add in Sorsogon. to that, her parents were patrons of the arts and very much in the Hectic schedules are not new to the 36-year-old—it just fashion circuit—”so I grew up around people who always dressed describes her past 24 years in show business. But locked-in very well, loved fashion, culture and the arts”. tapings, which have become a norm since COVID-19, are a different beast altogether. “We had to first quarantine for 10 days and then “However, I wasn’t really allowed to be an actress; I come shoot for about three weeks,” she explains. “Yeah, it’s a little crazy, from a traditional and strict family,” she says. Her mother—who but we are all adapting to the change.” would eventually become her manager—supported her wishes She has taken it all in her stride, but for the Evangelista from and allowed her to secretly audition for the role that launched her three years ago—who was in the throes of the worst panic attack as Evangelista, her grandmother’s name, which the network felt of her life—it may not have been quite so easy. “I was at fashion would make a better screen name. week feeling like I was at the top of the world. Then, suddenly, I felt sad, anxious and very depressed,” she shares. All those emotions Her life very quickly was taken over by back-to-back shoots, then started to manifest physically as numbness in her limbs and extended call times and constant media attention. “As a teenager, a painful condition called burning tongue syndrome, which she I loved what I was doing. I grew up in a conservative family later realised was the result of pent-up anxiety. environment, so I was used to rules. I am pretty much a good girl, One might wonder why someone who is ever so poised, so it wasn’t a struggle for me that I couldn’t go out partying or that perfectly groomed, in the trendiest clothes, has nine million I wasn’t allowed to go out of town with my friends.” followers on Instagram, and married to one of the most eligible But that changed in her 20s and 30s and she became more independent. “It was very stressful. There was suddenly so much freedom that it scared me. With no one telling me what to do, I was always afraid that I would get into trouble.” In a bid to shield her real self from the public eye, she even started signing her paintings as Love Marie, so no one would know that it was her. The bona-fide darling of the art world sought solace behind her canvases and the Birkin bags she used to paint on. Ironically, the very thing that thrilled her also petrified her. And it came to a head on that day, three years ago. “But I was in denial. I kept questioning the credibility of it all. I am a happy person. I could not understand why I was feeling this way.” But the pain grew excruciating and her anxiety started reaching dangerous levels of negativity. “That’s when I told my husband ‘I think I need to see a doctor’.” That was possibly the best decision as she finally had someone who could put a name to what she was going through. In a week, her numbness and the pain from burning tongue syndrome went away. “It was like a miracle. I was like, ‘oh my god, there are so many who are suffering in silence because they don’t know why or
LIFE Profile Heart Evangelista is making a name for herself, not just as an actress but also as an artist and, soon, as head of her own beauty company. Make-up, Justin Soriano; hair, Jeck Aguilar; stylist’s assistant, John Karunungan; clothes, Self-Portrait. are embarrassed to seek help’. This is something that can be fixed, Asians are no longer on the sidelines when it comes to movies. And you just need to take the first step.” that’s why, as an artist or influencer. I think it’s really important that we still keep talking about it and make it the new normal.” She made a pact with herself right then to spread the message of mental health. “I talk about it whenever I have a bigger Feeling empowered lies at the base of it all for Evangelista, platform to express myself. And why would I not, when taking and is what her soon-to-launch beauty company is about. Based control of things like I did can save someone’s life?” on a direct-selling concept, it spotlights the everyday women, the homemakers and busy mums—the conservative Filipinas who There were bashers for sure, she says. She faced quite put their lives on the back burner after marriage, as Evangelista a bit of flak on Instagram—she was called crazy, bipolar and a describes it. “The company’s aim is not just to promote selfcare, pretender. “It used to bother me in the beginning, but not anymore. but also help a lot of women get their careers back,” she explains. This is my truth and I will fight with all I have to get myself back,” she says firmly. She also has an upcoming art exhibition in Los Angeles, where she is collaborating with Brandon Boyd, lead singer of rock A community of like-minded people banding to support band Incubus and founder of Moonlight Arts Creative. Evangelista each other has also emerged from it all. Evangelista has the sincere also has a few other exciting projects in the pipeline. “I am not sure support of her friends and her team, and she has her husband if I can talk about them yet,” she says excitedly. steadfast by her side. “I can be a heavy person to be with when I have my bouts. I get very negative, but he has been by me through it She is Love Marie Ongpauco-Escudero to the art world all. He is my biggest inspiration,” she says. and Heart Evangelista to the film and fashion world. The biggest difference is that she does not hide behind any of these names. Her Such unconditional support warms her heart today more screen persona now is unabashedly her. than even the best off the runway. “I love fashion; I love dressing up. But there are certain wars you cannot fight with a beautiful Exercising her right to be comfortable in her own skin and jacket.” Humorous as that statement sounds, it is evident that the expose her flaws has also positively impacted her choices. “I have thought comes from a place deep within her. started to do more and I feel like the universe has also opened up to me. I still have my bad days and good days, but this is me. This That said, she loves how the fashion industry is embracing is who I am today and I’m proud of my flaws. Perfection is not of this concept and that of beauty in its entirety. “People now show this world.” their stretch marks, I mean that’s a lot,” she quips. “I also love how 113
THIS PAGE Elevate even the most casual outfit with Rimowa’s elegant Aluminium Crossbody Bag with removable leather straps, and travel in style with the compact Aluminium Hand Clutch. Ralina carries Rimowa Aluminium Hand Clutch; Eddie carries Rimowa Aluminium Crossbody Bag FACING PAGE Opt for the Rimowa Aluminium Sling Clutch to add a sport- luxe touch to your everyday wear, and consider carrying the Aluminium Crossbody Bag as a clutch by detaching the removable straps. Eddie carries Rimowa Aluminium Sling Clutch; Ralina carries Rimowa Aluminium Crossbody Bag Wardrobe, Boss; hair and make-up, Lydia Thong/ Makeup Entourage using Keune Haircosmetics and MAC Cosmetics; models, Eddie Zhang and Ralina Rakipova/Ave Management; photographer’s assistant, Zhan Hong; stylist’s assistant, Joey Tan. ONtheGO Rimowa’s Personal collection is a creative homage to its history rooted Elevate your everyday style effortlessly with the latest from in travel. In a marriage of form and Rimowa’s Personal collection. The new additions to the unisex function, the luxury luggage brand met collection are as fashionable as they are versatile and timeless. the tiny bag trend, feeding the wanderlust of the person always on the move. This Photography CHER HIM unisex collection, which bears the brand’s Styling DESMOND LIM signature shape and ridged detailing, now Words SANDHYA MAHADEVAN includes a sling clutch and hand clutch. Crafted in a lightweight aluminium shell, 114 they are durable and versatile, and give a stylish nod to travel. Pair them with your workwear or brunch casuals, or as a way to elevate your athleisure look—make them a part of your everyday.
LIFE Travel
LIFE Design A PLACEof ONE’S OWN Lawyer Paul Tan works a different kind of parley with a house that melds the past and present, indoor and outdoor, robust and sleek. Most importantly, it provides a calm far from the strains and solemnity of the courtroom. Photography SAYHER HEFFERNAN Styling DESMOND LIM Words LUO JINGMEI 116
THIS PAGE In the double-volume living room, the curves of the x+l 01 coffee table from Phantom Hands and Calme Plat bench designed by Christian Liaigre lend softness to the architecture’s sharp lines and raw concrete surfaces. FACING PAGE Paul Tan at the landing of the staircase, which captures postcard- perfect snapshots of the sky.
LIFE Design The house is a celebration of light, captured through an open plan and carefully placed apertures. In the dining room, lamps from Astep create an intimate atmosphere. “The sun sets our bearings, marks the east and west, south and north, Tan is an amiable, bespectacled lawyer with a wide grin the front and rear of houses, what is in the light and what is in the and smiling eyes. The partner at Clifford Chance Asia has made shade, what needs to be sheltered by porches and roofs and what needs headlines as a high achiever in the industry, and heads the to be opened up through windows and skylights. The sun is always a litigation practice for Southeast Asia, specialising in commercial special spectacle and participating in it is a privilege we often fail to litigation and international arbitration. The recently appointed take advantage of because of silly little things getting in the way. The treasurer of the Law Society of Singapore’s council also co- entertainment provided by the day’s great cosmic events certainly founded the Young Lawyer’s Task Force to support younger talent. On top of that, he has published a book on Singapore’s legal history Ideserves a bit of attention.” and is now penning three legal textbooks. It is all very cerebral talian architect and designer Michele De Lucchi work—and pressurising too for sure—which is why he appreciates penned these words in the book 12 Tales with Little the calm that the house provides. It is filled with material and Houses in 2005 to accompany images of miniature phenomenological qualities, and yokes him close to nature. houses he carved with a chainsaw. These observations of habitat and the wider world they are set in is a Tan had always lived in this part of Singapore—a reminder of what meaningful spaces can do for the residential street in Serangoon that, while witnessing increasing body and soul. They come to me as I ambulate through the light- construction activity transmuting one-storey houses into three- rich home of Paul Tan. From the outside, the all-white architecture storey edifices, still retains a certain languid charm. His parents appears like a sculpture with round cut-outs, alabaster bands and two siblings live a street away and it is not uncommon to find wrapping around glass walls and a curved roof—very unlike the him strolling over to mum’s kitchen for lunch as he now works neighbouring houses that are capped with terracotta roofs or from home due to the pandemic. “A large part of living [is defined] mundane box-and-screen constructs. by our professional lives and for the longest time, our home was synonymous with the non-professional aspects. But COVID has The front gate, painted a deep pine colour, opens and my changed all that in that the home is really the host of all aspects feet crunch on gravel carpeting the driveway. The small garden is of our lives: professional, recreational and restorative. So I am minimally planted with lawn grass, cat’s tail and a lone leopard grateful to have a place where all three can be had,” he says. tree that has popped through the car-porch roof through a circular aperture. Inside, the early morning illumination washes in through To build his dream house, he found a worthy collaborator the geometric openings that frame views both ways, concocting in Mikael Teh of Monocot Studio. He found the architectural silent light and shadow theatrics, and almost whitewashing the designer online and was drawn to his simple yet articulated greys from the off-form concrete walls. But it feels comfortable in spaces. “I was looking for someone young and who could relate to the house, thanks to the far-reaching roof eaves. me. Mikael had his own point of view that I appreciated as I didn’t want a cookie-cutter house,” explains Tan. A house embodies 118
A PH 4/3 pendant lamp from Louis Poulsen hangs in the study niche. The corner lounge seat was designed to be a place of rest in between working sessions as well as an extra surface for Tan to spread out his documents. its owners’ personalities, likes and aspirations. In this case, “According to my parents the Zen-vibe reflects Tan’s inherent introspective nature while who visited, the double- accommodating his love of interacting with people that comes volume living room has a from his work and public speaking. Travel—including doing his cathedral-like effect.” master’s degree at the University of Oxford and later working in the UK and Geneva—exposed him to design, but he credits Teh for an open and tall space. We also wanted Tan’s friends to be able to deepening this knowledge beyond nice pictures. sit on the window ledge to chit-chat or dip their legs in the pool,” says Teh. For inspiration, he looked to minimalist British architect John Pawson and Japanese architect and maestro of brutalism Sometimes, Tan enjoys a cup of coffee perched on the Tadao Ando. “I love the simplicity, clean lines and use of natural raised surface. “I think living is about taking moments for yourself materials in their work,” says Tan. The long staircase climbing and every morning now that we work from home, I’ve had the time up one side of the house pays homage to the former. Around and to make my own pour-over coffees. I grind the coffee beans by above the steps, sharp-edged picture windows and skylights hand; it gives me an opportunity to do something for myself before make an artwork of azure skies and shifting clouds. No wonder facing the rest of the day,” says the coffee connoisseur. he christens it ‘the stairway to heaven’. As I traverse up, my hands clasp curved profiles etched into the walls—the most minimal Around the house, cooking tomes hint at one of Tan’s of handrails. This ethos of simplicity contributes to the house’s proclivities, which is confirmed by a thorough set of Wolf serenity. “You can see that the house is very stripped down. Many appliances in the Dada kitchen imported from Italy. “I prefer areas use just one or a few types of materials so it’s very modest but Western cuisine as it’s easier to pick up compared to Asian food, also very powerful.” At the stairwell, it is plaster and paint, timber, and I don’t bake as that requires more precision. I like to be more glass and sky. In the master bathroom that unabashedly greets one creative rather than follow the rules, which is ironic as I’m a lawyer. through glass walls past the second-storey landing, granite wraps But then, I like to explore the grey areas,” he says with a laugh. the walls, floor, bathtub and washbasin counter. He also tasked Teh to think about how to ground the Even the house’s programming is unusually basic—there house’s design in its context. “We definitely took inspiration from is only one bedroom—allowing Tan to enjoy the pure expanse the greats. But I wanted to avoid the generic Balinese-themed of space, which is most palpable in the voluminous living room. house or a modern cube. So I asked Mikael if we could take Here, a gathering of tasteful and cosy furniture invites flowing conversation. A glass-fronted mezzanine-cum-study area above allows another perspective of the space. Split-levels between the living and dining “give the dining area a sense of intimacy in such 119
LIFE Design “Many areas use just one or a few types of materials Terrazzo, concrete, so it’s very modest but also tiles, plaster-and- very powerful.” paint, and wood are simple materials that are used to great effect in Tan’s house. something identifiable of Singapore architecture and modernise Phantom Hand popularised by social media, whose use of rattan it.” After some research that involved a saunter around Tiong references the colonial era. It faces a bench with chunky curving Bahru—an area Tan is most fond of—Teh decided to incorporate legs by French designer Christian Liaigre that Tan felt reminded the characteristics of the area’s pre-war apartment blocks such as him of traditional Chinese furniture, albeit updated. Same too for circular windows, elongated corridors and curved walls. the Stellar Works dining chairs poised beneath Astep lamps that hover delicately like glass bubbles threaded through with a needle. One of these walls envelops the attic, fronted by timber Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen was also an inspiration. “His bookshelves and lined with pale-green kit-kat tiles. These tiles work has a certain old-world charm but feels very contemporary at also clad the base of a table that Teh designed. A Noguchi lantern the same time. The overall styling of the living area, in particular, and rattan chairs from Carl Hansen & Søn complete the room’s has a slight shade of the living room in his VDC Residence [in Zen feel. “I jokingly call this space the multipurpose hall. But I Belgium],” says Tan. think that’s a good illustration of how the design of the space was shaped around what I needed it for. It can be a secondary study, The light that flows into the home enlivens the forms, a lounge area or a workout room,” says Tan, who meets with proportions and passageways Teh has crafted. “We studied the personal trainer and local athlete Calvin Kang here twice a week. sun direction and created the double-volume space to allow ample morning sun in, and the circular cut-outs to create a dramatic Friends and family who have visited enjoy the space as effect. A circular window was also studied to frame an existing much as Tan. “According to my parents who visited, the double- banyan tree that didn’t survive and that we replaced with the volume living room has a cathedral-like effect. Some of my friends leopard tree,” he shares. In the master bedroom, deep overhangs say the house has echoes of Le Corbusier’s Villa Savoye; others reduce the heat from the morning and evening sun, and the lush say it has aspects of the Guggenheim Museum in New York City. I landscape outside the window makes for a fine morning view. think that goes to show what Mikael created was something really unique,” he gleams. While Tan gave Teh plenty of creative freedom, he did ask for a large bathtub in which he could soak away the cares of the In furnishing the house, many trips to showrooms were day. This is situated in the master bathroom which as big as the made by the duo. “The selection started out with a mid-modern adjoining master bedroom, surrounded by glass walls that look to century vibe, very Danish,” Tan recalls. A vintage timber console greenery on a perimeter terrace. “The bathroom is the first place in the living room as well as a bench in the master bathroom from you step into after you wake and the last you enter before you local Scandinavian second-hand furniture boutique Noden are sleep. So I wanted a bathroom where I could decompress and that all but what is left of this initial direction. “Over time, I wanted feels meditative,” says Tan. The large receptacle lined with cobalt the furniture to reflect the architecture, which is a bit old and a kit-kat tiles is evocative of Japanese onsen—“it’s like a mini pool,” bit new, a bit Asian and a bit European,” says Tan. He points out says Tan in jest. “We see emptiness and open space as a form of Pierre Jeanneret-designed Easy armchairs in the living room from luxury,” adds Teh. After living here for a while, Tan has had the chance to appreciate the home. “In the day, it has an Australian vibe. It’s very chill, with the sunlight streaming in and when you lie down on the couch and look out at the leopard tree, it feels like you’re overseas, maybe by the beach. At night, there is a sense of calm. I feel that I can do my work here but I don’t feel the stress of it.” The relaxing vista of a water body—in this case, the swimming pool—is another element that provides tranquillity. In his younger days, the illustrious Tan would spend all his time working. Now older and wiser, he has learnt to relax, and separate work and personal life. “On weekends I try not to work. In the evenings, I switch off and do something like take a swim or soak in the tub. But I also like having the space by myself with my thoughts [even when I am working]. Just last week when I was preparing for a case, I would walk around the house thinking about the case theory. I need the quiet to think and the house allows me to do that effectively. At the same time, once it’s time to relax, it gives me the opportunity to switch over,” says Tan. 120
The attic’s multipurpose space has a Japanese feel with light timber joinery, an Akari pendant lamp designed by Isamu Noguchi, and CH25 lounge chairs from Carl Hansen & Søn. Books on travel, design and cooking, as well as biographies of important personalities fill the shelves. Hair and make-up, Zhou Aiyi/Makeup Entourage using Clarins and Keune; stylist’s assistant, Joey Tan Tan wears turtleneck sweater, stylist’s own; trousers, Tan’s own; Church’s boots
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Photography LIZ COLLINS Styling KONCA AYKAN From dazzling audiences in Crazy Rich Asians to tackling a role in a major Marvel movie, Gemma Chan is no stranger to the limelight. But after a period of slowing down and looking inward, she opens up to Vogue Singapore about her upbringing, the place Asian values have in her life and the causes she most believes in. Words AMELIA CHIA GEMMAAdditionalreportingCHANDREYEERAY 124
Giambattista Valli Haute Couture dress; Loeffler Randall sandals; Boucheron ring
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THIS PAGE Balenciaga Couture coat and gloves FACING PAGE Miss Sohee bustier top; Calzedonia tights
“In Chinese and Asian cultures, you have that sense of responsibility to your ancestors and parents for all the sacrifices that they have made, so you don’t want to mess it up.” Fendi Haute Couture gown and boots 128
“If I can help in any way just to boost or amplify someone else’s voice, I’m happy to do that.” In her latest movie, Eternals, Gemma Chan plays But for now, as the year comes to a close, she is ready to Sersi, an empath, who has an affinity with humans. take things at a slower pace and appreciate life at its core. Part of In reality, particularly on our late-night Zoom call, that included adopting a rescue cat called Mr Kitty—she visibly this kinship with people comes to light in her own lights up upon mentioning his name—whom she describes as life. The 38-year-old speaks with natural grace, her feisty but very affectionate. “The pandemic has brought into focus soothing British accent is one that will put you at what my priorities are and nothing is more important than health ease. She is apologetic about being 15 minutes late to and family. It reaffirmed those things for me. I’m used to running our call due to her Internet connection and asks how full steam ahead with everything and it is not a bad thing to slow I am doing. I tell her I’m about to have a baby in less down for a bit.” than 48 hours’ time and she beams, wanting to know if it is my first or second child. She is contemplative How would you describe the year that has gone by? and heartfelt in her responses to my questions and is It has been a year of upheaval and uncertainty for me as especially impassioned when speaking about causes it has been for everybody. I feel very, very fortunate in the that are meaningful to her: the East and Southeast Asian (ESEA) grand scheme of things because my family has their health. community, girls’ education, male violence and climate change. Now, everything has opened up in the UK and things are getting back to half-normality—but what is normal Earlier this year, during the anti-Asian attacks related to anymore? Most of us feel a bit of dread, since no one really discrimination and COVID-19 in the UK, she shared numerous knows what’s going to happen next, as the weather turns Instagram Stories, lending her support for the lives of people of colder. It’s a strange time. ESEA heritage in London. Perched in her kitchen, with dappled I’ve been going out a lot less and having smaller sunlight streaming in behind her, she explains: “I want the ESEA gatherings at home instead, and I’m really happy just community to feel seen and valued, and to be able to advocate for hanging out and looking after Mr Kitty. I’ve also been itself. And if I can help in any way just to boost or amplify someone able to work quite a bit, so I can’t complain about too else’s voice, I’m happy to do that.” many things. Even though she had roles in the 2016 fantasy film Fantastic Speaking of work, what can you tell us about Eternals? Beasts and Where to Find Them, 2017 sci-fi action film Transformers: Eternals is an epic film and it’s incredibly ambitious. It The Last Knight, and 2015-2018 sci-fi television series Humans, spans the course of 7,000 years and there are 12 characters it was only with Crazy Rich Asians that Chan’s popularity soared being introduced. I think it’s shot beautifully and will overnight. In the minds of most, she is cemented as the impeccably look and feel very different from other films in the Marvel sophisticated Astrid Leong, a kind-hearted Singaporean socialite Cinematic Universe. It’s a bit of a jump from what Marvel and protagonist Nick Young’s closest cousin. has done before and I really hope people enjoy it. To the British-Asian actress, filming on our sunny shores Your character in the film, Sersi, is an empath. Do you identify with her will always be an extraordinary experience. “I feel lucky to be in any way? part of that film with my castmates and crew. Embracing the food at hawker centres and seeing all these incredible places—like I feel like the cast was chosen specially because we had Marina Bay Sands—in real life was amazing,” Chan enthuses. She some kind of crossover with the characters we are playing, laughs when asked about how the Crazy Rich Asians cast are still so yes, I certainly relate to her. She’s probably not the best very much in contact via an active WhatsApp group chat. “There’s fighter, but she has this connection with humans and loves the occasional meme that usually comes from Jimmy O Yang. living among them. She is a free spirit as well, which I Ronny [Chieng] loves a meme as well. If any of us are in the same identify with. city, we’ll meet up for dim sum or noodles and send a picture to the rest of the group.” Does the shift in Asian representation on screen in the last few years surprise you? From Asian actors previously filling out smaller parts I’ve always felt that the near-perfect Astrid was more to actors like yourself now taking on major roles—what do you think wonderfully complex than she let on—and it unravelled towards propelled this change? the end of the movie when she broke off with her cheating husband. There was also an Easter egg during the credits when viewers had I’m not surprised, but I didn’t think that this change would hints of what might happen next with Astrid’s love life. It is the happen within the span of my working life. Things have messy women that attract her, the erudite Chan reveals, and it is improved in many ways and quite rapidly, although I >> in playing the roles of multidimensional, layered women that leave her eager about her next project. 130
Armani Privé blouse; Intimissimi bra; Boucheron bracelet and ring
Balenciaga Couture gown and gloves; Boucheron necklace
“What is finally sinking in is that representation shouldn’t be tokenistic. It’s not for the sake of it and it’s not box-ticking, but it actually enhances storytelling and makes it more authentic.”
“I’m used to running full steam ahead with everything and it is not a bad thing to slow down for a bit.” >> think there is a lot we need to do to ensure this is not just my cousins and that left an imprint on me—apparently a trend or a moment, but change that lasts. I mean this in by the end of that trip I was speaking fluent Cantonese. I terms of better representation across the board, whether didn’t manage to visit Singapore until we filmed Crazy Rich you are talking about race, ethnicity, disability or all kinds Asians, but I loved it there. The people in Singapore were so of groups that have been marginalised and not had the welcoming and the food was incredible. chance to tell their own stories. You come from quite a traditional Asian family, something most of What is finally sinking in is that representation us here in Singapore can relate to. How do they feel about what you’re shouldn’t be tokenistic. It’s not for the sake of it and it’s doing now? not box-ticking, but it enhances storytelling and makes it more authentic. People are also understanding now that They’re so proud of me. When I changed career paths stories can be universal and don’t just appeal to the people and set out to train as an actress, there were very few depicted in them. In the past, I’m sure that the received opportunities in the UK for actors of Asian descent or for wisdom in Hollywood was that if a film didn’t have central Black actors since there were lot of period dramas and characters who were Caucasian, Caucasian audiences not much else being made. So I understand why they were wouldn’t respond. But we have found that to be untrue. I’m worried that I wouldn’t be able to make a living. Once they optimistic for the future. knew I was going to be okay, those fears were put aside. What else do you think needs to happen in terms of improving We are not typically told that a career in the arts is representation in Hollywood? viable. Especially in Chinese and Asian cultures, you have that sense of responsibility to your ancestors and parents I do think we need to do more work structurally. There for all the sacrifices that they have made, so you don’t want are still very few women and minorities in gatekeeping to mess it up. positions, and there are very few people who can get projects greenlit in Hollywood. The power is still very Do traditional Asian values still play a part in your life? concentrated in a small number of hands. They do in a lot of ways. I feel a deep connection to my ancestors and their sacrifices, and I think it is important The thing that’s been lovely is finding a community to know where you come from and what your family has of artists who all support one another. And I really feel that been through to stay grounded. In terms of Asian culture, within the Asian community; there’s a lot of mutual support the fact that most of my life revolves around food and my between actors, directors, writers for each other’s projects, work ethic are definitely two things that I got from my mum whether we’re in them or not. and dad. What was it like growing up in the UK as a British-born Chinese? Aside from advocating for the East Asian community, are there any I grew up feeling both ver y connected to my Chinese heritage other causes you would like to be a part of in the foreseeable future? and very anglicised. We were one of the few Asian families in the area. It was only once I’d finished university that I felt I’m passionate about education, particularly, girls’ a connection to the wider British-Asian community, and it education. When girls are educated, they uplift their was through my work that I managed to meet other Asian families and communities, they innovate and do well in writers, directors and artists. I think that’s something other business. So finding a way to help improve the educational people in the diaspora can identify with, if you’ve grown prospects of girls around the world is important. Equally, up quite isolated from people who look like you. My family we need to focus on how we bring up our boys, how we was always proud of our heritage—we celebrated Chinese talk to them, how we raise them. There is a real epidemic New Year and the rest of it—but it’s hard when you don’t of male violence and it’s an issue that we need to address. have much extended family around you. I’m an ambassador for UNICEF; they do such Did you visit Asia much as a child? amazing work all around the world. I also support Apex The first place I visited in Asia was Hong Kong, which is for Youth, who do great work with underserved Asian and where my dad and my mum grew up. I don’t even remember minority youth in New York. We don’t have anything like the first trip because I was so young—I would have been that in the UK, so at some point, I would love to help with about two and a half years old. We went back there again setting up a mentorship programme. And the climate as when I was 10 and stayed the whole summer. I saw all well—it’s the most important thing out of everything else, after all. 134
Balenciaga Couture coat, stole, tank top (worn underneath) and pantashoes Hair, Shon Ju; make-up, Val Garland; manicure, Michelle Class; photographer’s assistants, Teddy Parks and Jordan Lee; fashion coordinator and first assistant, Julia Molnar; stylist’s assistant, Ferhat Rodoplu; production director, Lucy Watson; producer, Meghan O’Donnell; casting director, Jillian Demling/Creative Casting Agency.
COME JOIN US Photography TEREZA MUNDILOVA Fashion direction DESMOND LIM Styling DAMESE SADIVAN
Front row, from left: Sasha wears Prada cardigan; Isa Boulder dress; Y/Project pumps. Natalia wears Prada top; Commission NYC skirt; Loewe loafers. Cleopatra wears Loewe knit; Miu Miu skirt; Isa Boulder shoes. Back row, from left: Malick wears Isa Boulder dress; George Wendell shoes. Rabina wears Loewe top and skirt; Acne Studios heels. Tom wears Chanel suit; Prada boots
THIS PAGE Celine by Hedi Slimane coat; Lorette Colé Duprat necklace; Colombe d’Humières necklace FACING PAGE Jisoo Baik dress; Schiaparelli shoes; Bottega Veneta sunglasses; Colombe d’Humières necklace and rings
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THIS PAGE Abra coat; Celine by Hedi Slimane jacket; Acne Studios heels FACING PAGE From left: Malick wears Schiaparelli dress; Camper boots. Natalia wears Jisoo Baik dress; Abra boots. Rabina wears Prada coat; Amina Muaddi sandals; Roussey 3D necklace
Clockwise from top left: Malick wears Schiaparelli dress; Camper boots. Rabina wears Prada coat; Roussey 3D necklace. Tom wears Hood by Air coat. Taishi wears Commission NYC top; Celine by Hedi Slimane jeans and boots. Natalia wears Jisoo Baik dress; Abra boots. Sasha wears Jisoo Baik dress; Falke tights; Schiaparelli shoes
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