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ISSUE 01 THE PURSUIT OF PERFECTION, TONY LEUNG

LAST PAGE SET IN STONE The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date is one elusive Rolex, and made even more so with its unique reiterations — this time with the Eisenkiesel dial text CAROLINE SUGANDA Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 in 18 ct Everose gold fitted with an Eisenkiesel, diamond-set dial, diamond-set bezel and a President bracelet, by ROLEX LAUNCHED IN 1956, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date earned a German for “iron pebbles”, Eisenkiesel is a type of dark quartz image courtesy of ROLEX sought-after status in 1965, when US President Lyndon B. Johnson was with striped inclusions of iron oxide. It exudes the allure of lavish spotted wearing a yellow gold version. Since then, it’s been known as marble, with its chocolate brown hue and intricate veining. The discs “the President’s watch”, while the semicircular, three-piece link bracelet of stone produced for the dials are cut from a block of raw material, created for it also became known as a “president bracelet”. Aside from with each disc individually selected by Rolex designers. Because its famous wearer, the watch (available only in gold or platinum) is also Eisenkiesel is a naturally occurring stone, each disc is unique and only distinctive for the features it derives its name from — it was the first those with the right colour and structure are chosen to become a dial. calendar wristwatch to indicate, in addition to the date, the day of the Just like any other decorative stone that is crafted into a dial, each week spelt out in full in a window on the dial, and the date displayed slice of Eisenkiesel needs to be thin enough to be fitted into the under the Cyclops lens. watch, but also thick enough so it doesn’t break easily — a challenging feat in watchmaking. As the most prestigious model of Rolex, the Day-Date has enjoyed many different treatments, being regularly elevated with a plethora of The beautiful Eisenkiesel dial is complemented with 12 baguette-cut gem settings and unique stone dials. This year, the Day-Date became diamonds that serve as hour markers, and set into a watch crafted out the first watch in the Rolex collection to be fitted with the decorative of Rolex’s very own 18 ct Everose gold, an exclusive pink gold alloy stone, Eisenkiesel, on its dial. cast in the brand’s own foundry and introduced in 2005. 196

Leather shirt, by RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL DECODE ON THE COVER 38 OBJECTS OF DESIRE Jacket, polo shirt, pants and loafers, by RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL The designer pieces that stay lust-worthy, from now till forever Photography: KARL LAM. Styling: SEAN K. Fashion Editor: JENINE OH. Hair: HERMAN LAW / II HAIR & NAIL. Makeup: CANDY LAW. Retoucher: ANNABELLE TRISHA. 44 GO FOR GROOMED Four beauty add-ons for a put- Set design: SAMUEL CHOI. Assistants: KAREN TSANG & KATHERINE HO together look, all within 10 minutes 45 MILLION DOLLAR SMILE A fuss-free option to straighter teeth 46 WHAT MAKES A MAN A scent that brings about a sense of warm, steady grounding 48 PORTRAIT OF A GENTLEMAN Tod’s FW’21 sees the brand’s signatures conceptualised through modern lens 50 NATURAL LANDSCAPES When texture meets sculptural, a work of raw romance is born 56 HOW IT STARTED, HOW IT’S GOING Fashion draws inspiration from the most curious of places FEATURE 66 THE SKIN TRADE Five new-age tattoo artists are carving out their own ink niches, making their mark online, and on skin 78 LIFE IN TECHNICOLOUR A closer look at ERL’s FW’21 collection, inspired by the brand’s Venice Beach roots and seminal American style moments

Outfit, by BOTTEGA VENETA FASHION TIME LIFESTYLE image: CJ TAN 84 THE LEGEND 152 BACK TO THE FUTURE 168 HOW THE ART WORLD Screen king Tony Leung is set to Horology pays tribute to IS EVOLVING achieve yet another cinematic archival references As collectors get younger, they are first at 59, smoothly sliding into a challenging the idea of what art is, and suave bad guy role as Marvel’s first 160 LOOKING BACK TO who gets to own, collect, and enjoy it Asian supervillain MOVE FORWARD Is there a risk of taking things 176 MELTING POT 98 COLOURS OF EFFIGY too far when watch manufacturers More traction is given to under-represented In a new world of remote interactions, use past creations as inspiration? recipes of obscure, unsung cuisines, in a bid perhaps technicolour sartorial might be A writer discusses to preserve pieces of culture and heritage what lends pieces vibrancy and hope 162 BEYOND THE 180 THE BACHELOR PAD GROWS UP 112 UP FOR FUN SILVER SCREEN A more sentimental and meaningful form What does one do to make Rolex’s support for cinema of the so-called man cave an impression? shed light on the connection between the worlds of horology 186 SAVING FACE 132 STATE OF GRACE and filmmaking Aesthetic experts weigh in on the Push the boundaries of fashion current grooming trends that the male experimentation with pieces that 164 CULTURE OF DESIGN demographic is keen on emphasise on the art of fluidity If good designs create culture, then Cartier is at the forefront of 188 BEHIND CLOSED DOORS 146 THE GREAT PAIRING being a cultural icon When the bedhead is the inspiration British artist Peter Doig’s bewitching for a tastefully messy ’do, take the chance universe transposes onto artistic director to elevate that towards I-Woke-Up- Kim Jones’ take on ceremonial wear Like-This iterations

ELLE.COM.SG @ ELLESINGAPORE Group Editorial Director JUMIUS WONG Group Managing Director CAROL LOO EDITORIAL Editor CAROLINE SUGANDA Group Fashion Editor JENINE OH Senior Beauty Writer CHELSEA TANG Contributing Sub-editor CHARMAINE CHAN Intern DEA WOENARDI DIGITAL Editor RENEE BATCHELOR Fashion Editor EUGENE LIM Senior Digital Writer FARISIA THANG Videographers KATHERINE ANG AMAN JOHN ART Group Art Director JOAELLE NG Senior Designer JASON TAN ADVERTISING Group Head of Business MARION ONG Sales and Marketing Manager JOE NG Sales and Marketing Executive GABRIEL YAP Digital Director (Traffic) YVONNE POH ADMINISTRATION Administrative Manager SHIKIN MOHD Administrative Assistant ANGIE SEE ELLE Singapore is published by Atlas Press Pte. Ltd. Copyright (c) is held by the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. 100 Pasir Panjang Road, #07-01, Singapore 118518. Telephone: +65 6908 1228. For advertising inquiries: [email protected] MCI (P) 064/07/2021 ISSN 2737-5595

A division of CEO CONSTANCE BENQUÉ CEO ELLE International Licensees FRANÇOIS CORUZZI SVP/International Director of ELLE VALERIA BESSOLO LLOPIZ ELLE BRAND MANAGEMENT Marketing Director MORGANE ROHEE Digital & Graphic Design Director MARINE LE BRIS ELLE INTERNATIONAL PRODUCTIONS Fashion Editor CHARLOTTE DEFFE Beauty & Celebrity Editor VIRGINIE DOLATA ELLE SYNDICATION Syndication Director MARION MAGIS Syndication Coordinator SOPHIE DUARTE Copyrights Manager SEVERINE LAPORTE Database Manager PASCAL IACONO INTERNATIONAL AD SALES HOUSE: LAGARDERE GLOBAL ADVERTISING SVP/International Advertising JULIAN DANIEL [email protected] ELLEINTERNATIONAL.COM ELLE® is used under license from the trademark owner, Hachette Filipacchi Presse, a subsidiary of Lagardère SCA.

EDITOR’S NOTE The Wassily B3 original edition from Knoll, by Marcel Breuer. Reworked by Forma in epoxy matte black paint and Cordura fabric. 1/1 edition TAKE A SEAT WELCOME TO ELLE MEN, a new chapter that we’re create a magazine that’ll last for a season (and more), it’s taking with a bold step towards creating, or rather, re- even more imperative that the stories are worth the pages igniting that spark that makes a man (or a woman) pick up they appear on, from the way they are conceptualised to a physical magazine. We want to remind you what that the way they are presented on pages in a way that digital feels like — to take a break and just… have a good read. just can’t come close to reproducing. In this issue, we herald this idea starting with an The way information is being delivered and consumed exclusive with Hong Kong actor Tony Leung. The elusive has changed radically in recent years; and the way print is legend who needs no introduction chats with us about his receding into the background has become the push factor upcoming debut in Hollywood with Shang-Chi and the for me to do all I can to bring eyeballs and attention back to Legend of the Ten Rings. We also delve into the evolving it. To do that, it is important to answer the following world of art, now dominated by the growing number of question: While everything can be easily translated or younger collectors; take a peek at the man caves of today, communicated via the interweb or social media platforms, which blend aesthetics with meaning and sentiment; and what is it that print can offer but not digital? examine the new breed of fashion designer who is changing the way we Call me old-fashioned, but the physical experience of consume. Lastly, we look at how holding a magazine is just something that a phone or tablet fashion can exist on its own, unbridled can’t replicate. Reading articles on paper just feels different by trend, evident in three very distinct from doing it on a screen, especially when the latter fashion spreads we did. experience often includes random notifications streaming in We had a lot of fun putting this while you’re trying to concentrate on reading something. issue together, and I hope you feel the same excitement as you go through the Jumius Wong To me, what counts as a good read is something that stories on these pages. Take a seat Group Editorial Director would not be easily replicated in the digital world. It is the and enjoy the read! act of producing something so unapologetically great that it @jumiusw leaves an impression on its readers, because it has its own identity. In the case of ELLE MEN where we have strived to 34

CONTRIBUTORS ETHAN LAI SEAN KUNJAMBU The Image Maker The Style Master Ethan Lai is a photographer, videographer and co-owner of ThereIsA Studio. His portfolio spans Also known as Sean K., the creative and from street style coverage for London Fashion fashion director has helmed numerous editorial Week, as well as editorial work for both overseas and commercial projects, alongside celebrity and local publications. Lai is interested in the relationship between the body and clothing assignments internationally. His portfolio alongside psychogeography of the local fashion comprises enviable names like Blackpink’s scene. He credits his time at Central Saint Martins Lisa, Cecilia Cheung, and Gisele Bundchen. for motivating him to push the boundaries of fashion Outside of work, he is passionate about image-making - beyond photography. He has made fashion films for the likes of Marques human rights causes, diversity, wildlife Almeida, created immersive 3D realms to best protection, and education. deliver his vision, and directed the celebrated CSM White Show. Lai’s goal is to demonstrate that fashion can be so much more than just beautiful; in his expansive vision, it is academic, light-hearted, dark, funny, sometimes all at once. KARL LAM The Image Maker Karl Lam is a Hong Kong-based photographer who works in fashion. His name is a common one among international fashion magazines, and brands, with his celebrity clientele like Nancy Wu, Chrissie Chau and Kary Ng. He is interested in realism and timeless art styles that will continue to appeal along the years. CJ TAN The Image Maker Photographer CJ Tan first picked up his craft back in Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts, where he studied fine art, majoring in photography. It was also then that he first explored and fell in love with film photography. Tan especially likes how the medium makes us anticipate something magical appearing before us — he is always excited when he is on the way to pick up developed photographs from the studio. Inspired by the everyday stories around him — including the highs and lows that people go through — Tan describes his style as mellow and sombre, with a certain tranquility and calmness underpinning it. JOY SONG The Image Maker Joy Song is a writer-director based in Berlin and Singapore. Her background comes from film development in LA, having worked on projects like Oscar- nominated film Under the Skin, as well as Oscar-winning fare Spotlight. She aims to nurture ideas about the human condition through explorations into psychology, philosophy and mortality, while demystifying abstract topics through a poetic style of work. Her films have premiered in circuits such as the International New York Film Festival, London Fashion Film Festival and BAFTA’s Aesthetica Festival. To date, Song holds the record for being the first female director to have won the prestigious DWA Prize from the German Commercial Film Academy. 36

DECODE OBJECTS OF DESIRE Some of our favourite designer pieces stay lust worthy from now till forever photography ZHANG MINHUA / TELESCOPE STUDIOS styling EUGENE LIM

AS CLEAR AS THE SKY ... literally — from its timeless design and sound quality to the sustainable materials and effort in futureproofing this ‘forever upgradable’ modular speaker. The passion put into this bluetooth speaker is indeed, transparent, and clearly translated into its design. Speaker, $1,699 by TRANSPARENT at TANGS 39

DECODE/OBJECTS ICE ICE BABY Icy in look but rough to the touch, Frosted Gold is a result of a collaboration with Italian jeweller Carolina Bucci. This finish is achieved by hammering a needle-like tool into the gold, creating tiny facets that appear diamond-like onto the bracelet and bezel of the Royal Oak. Royal Oak Frosted Gold watch, $68,700, by AUDEMARS PIGUET 40

OBJECTS/DECODE TAKE A SEAT Now, this is one chair that can make anyone go “Ahhh!”. It transforms from a typical upright chair to a relaxed semi-reclining position with a gentle push of the seat to a crescent position (pictured). Designed by Martin Eisler in the ‘50s, Italian furniture Tacchini pays homage to this great creative with the rebirth of an icon. Reversivel Lounge chair, $6,040, by TACCHINI at MADE & MAKE 41

DECODE/OBJECTS HEAVY METAL HEARTS Who knew a pair of jeans could be so... elusive? It might take a while to track down (and save) for this denim unicorn, but men in the know cherish and love these classic button-fly jeans. Denim jeans with leather cross and silverware, by CHROME HEARTS 42

photography assistant: JEREMY KIERAN/TELESCOPE STUDIOS OBJECTS/DECODE SPLIT DECISION Love it or hate it, the Tabi has established itself as a fashion classic. Tough, subversive and slightly eccentric, it’s the perfect fashion upgrade from a basic black boot. Tabi leather boots, by MAISON MARGIELA 43

DECODE/GROOMING GO FOR 2 GROOMED 1 These steps aren’t going 3 to take anything more than 10 minutes, but they’ll have you leaving home looking like you have your life together — even if you don’t text CHELSEA TANG photography & styling KATHERINE ANG 1. Rouge Hermès Lip Care Balm, 3. Le Correcteur, $59, $105, by Hermès by Chanel Beauté Now, this is a bougie item that’s going to be toted Given how silky this liquid concealer feels, everywhere. Natural, nourishing and non-shiny, the you can guess just how easily it will blend into formula contains high concentrations of beeswax the skin, even if you’re just using fingers. Dot and candelilla wax for a clear lip balm that hydrates the product wherever there are blemishes, and softens. discolouration or dark under-eye circles, then 2. Diorshow Kabuki Brow Styler, heat up both ring fingers by rubbing them $44, by Dior Beauty together, and pat the concealer on. The heat This triangular shaped pencil allows you to create from the fingers will melt the product into the different types of brows: filling in sparse areas with skin for a radiant, bright-eyed effect. the pointy tip via gentle flicking motions creates natural, fluffy brows; while dramatic strokes using 4. All-Physical Lightweight the flatter edges create more dramatic-looking Wrinkle Defense Broad Spectrum arches. Once done, brush through with the soft- Sunscreen SPF30, $64, bristled kabuki brush to even everything out. by Dr Dennis Gross Sunscreen is a must to protect against photo- 4 ageing. Repeat after us: Sunscreen is a must. This desirable formula packs in all the buzz 44 phrases we are looking for: oil-free, all- physical, ultra-sheer, weightless hydration. In a word: it’s undetectable. Apply two finger lengths’ worth across the face and neck.

ESSENTIALS/DECODE MILLION BRAD PITT doesn’t need an Instagram DOLLAR SMILE account to stay relevant. Mention his name and an image instantly floats to mind: Brad in text CHELSEA TANG a classic black tux, with his dirty blonde photography & styling KATHERINE ANG strands and cheeky blue eyes. The American actor-producer, who turns 58 in December, Local dental company Zenyum takes pride in their has very handsomely aged from an professional minimum-effort-maximum-results approach: effervescent young man to cinema’s Say hello to their ZenyumClear™ Aligners, which discreetly charismatic Greatest Of All Time — but correct teeth to achieve the perfect smile nothing’s changed about his megawatt smile. The ZenyumClear™ It’s true that one of the things that stays Aligners are consistent about our appearance — if it’s taken good care of — is the smile. So when transparent and it comes to our pearly whites, straight teeth undetectable on teeth, will always give us an advantage if we want discreetly correcting leave the right impression. This is where local dental company Zenyum steps in with their them while you go fuss-free and professional way to achieve about your day the perfect smile: their ZenyumClear™ Aligners and ZenyumClear™ Plus Aligners. These are transparent, medical-grade, BPA-free plastic retainer-like casings that fit snugly on the teeth. They work discreetly, by exerting consistent pressure on the teeth to shift and straighten them over time. Unlike traditional metal braces, these aligners can be snapped off during meals and while brushing teeth to keep clean. Depending on the degree of adjustment needed, Zenyum works with dentists to prescribe different types of aligners. For minor tweaks, say, a slightly crooked tooth, the ZenyumClear™ Aligners work to nudge the first top and bottom eight teeth into place. Those who require larger-scale movements of teeth, including the back ones, can opt for the ZenyumClear™ Plus Aligners that can fix problems like large overjets, severe overcrowding and tipped teeth. In keeping to the spirit of being fuss-free, Zenyum has also streamlined the fitting and check-in steps to be as straightforward and convenient as possible. That means, physical trips to the dentist will be kept to a minimum; the only compulsory in-clinic session with the dentist will be to nail down the important nitty-gritty details (3D intraoral scan, full- mouth X-ray, etc) to identify possible oral health issues that may not be visible beyond the naked eye. This is to ensure a safe and optimal oral environment before getting started on the aligners. Following the approved treatment plan, your custom-printed aligners will be fitted on by your dentist, with care instructions. Subsequently, regular checks and reminders can then be done virtually via the Zenyum mobile app. 45

DECODE/SCENT Man Terrae Essence,from $134, by Bulgari WHAT MAKES A MAN Inspired by the richness of Tuscan terroir, the Bulgari Man Terrae Essence is a woody- vetiver scent that brings about a sense of warm, steady grounding text CHELSEA TANG photography KATHERINE ANG styling EUGENE LIM A SCENE FROM post-apocalyptic science fiction television series The 100 by The CW comes to mind when contemplating the relationship between earth and man. In the drama, when 100 of the space-born juvenile detainees first stepped foot on the ground, there was a collective moment of silence before the excitement of touching soil, drinking fresh stream water and breathing (non- recycled) air for the first time kicked in. This genuine and passionate appreciation for earth — the planet and everything it encompasses — is what Bulgari’s Man Terrae Essence scent strives to convey. Terrae, a 46

Latin word meaning “of the earth”, stems from Clockwise from left: SCENT/DECODE the idea of land being the bedrock of man’s Earthy Terrae Accord, 47 truest identity. Tuscan soil, in particular, served zesty citron essence, vetiver as the inspiration for the fragrance; no doubt roots from Java and Haïti because its terrain of rolling hills and cypress trees pulsates with so much authenticity, beauty and warmth — the vitality of life which humanity thrives upon. In the bottle, the scent conjures up the rich, intense verve of cultivated land, and all its life-giving power. Master perfumer Alberto Morillas opens the woody vetiver scent with sun-kissed citrus: the zesty-fresh citron essence and calamansi accords are reminiscent of a sunny Italian landscape of golden citrus groves. Allow the spritz some time to settle, and the heart notes start to emerge. Java and Haïti vetiver roots contribute to an earthy-floral accent — the former, powerful and smoky; the latter, velvety, rough and soft. On the note of vetiver, Bulgari is mindful of how its farmers harvest theirs. Being a plant with strong roots that stabilise soil, preventing erosion and flooding in tropical climates, the farmers in Java and Haïti have set up a “recovery” system of sorts — 12 months after being planted, the vetiver roots are extracted from the soil during the dry season, and then cut and washed. Unused cut parts will then be replanted back into the earth, turning the process into a sustainable affair. As the Man Terrae Essence mingles with skin, the base notes will start to intensify. Leathery, earthy and resinous, its richness comes from an exclusive-to-Bulgari Terrae Accord, a construction that’s entirely new to the house. The accord is made of woodleather, geonol, and carrot essence, all of which bring a nuanced element to form a grounded — and grounding — accent. Intense depth and raw animality mingle with the earthy freshness of moss and patchouli, which complement the fruitiness of root vegetables. Cast in warm hues of amber and brown, the form of the flacon evokes the look of Tuscan soil, where the fragrance was first conceptualised. Textured marble reflects the ruggedness of earth, while the influence of the Roman jeweller is seen in its fluid, sculptural lines and gold signature. Warm and masculine, Man Terrae Essence invites every man to nurture his intimate and instinctive bond with fertile land, and to reconnect with the richness of earth. The Bulgari Man Terrae Essence will be available in September 2021.

DECODE/CONVERSATION Actor Lorenzo Zurzolo starred in the campaign PORTRAIT OF A GENTLEMAN text RENEE BATCHELOR In his latest FW’21 collection for Tod’s, creative director Walter Chiapponi refocusses the Italian brand’s signatures through a modern lens WHEN ONE THINKS of Italian house Tod’s this collection, because it is the ultimate jackets — there is also a pervading sense of all images courtesy of TODS a few words come to mind: discreet expression of the gentleman I have in mind, ease, comfort and wearability throughout the luxurious, finely crafted and timelessly which represents Tod’s,” he says. collection. Says Chiapponi, “I have explored elegant. The brand’s creative director, classic themes, but interpreted them with a Walter Chiapponi, who heads both the This season’s collection was initially whole new lifestyle, that of man in contact men’s and women’s collections, has presented as a film concept, in a short movie with nature. The inspiration is that of the cemented his vision for the house since titled #sevenT, featuring Italian heartthrob gentleman who wears heavy fabrics and joining in late 2019. For the brand’s new Lorenzo Zurzolo. It was filmed in a beautiful colours that blend in with the landscape. The FW’21 collection, Chiapponi explains how he 1930s villa, Villa Ronchi, designed by Italian man is free, in spirit and in space, and naturally continues to be influenced by the concept of architect Giuseppe De Finetti, and located in wears everything in layers in a casual and Italian good taste, an idea which anchored Northern Italy’s Lombardy region. The film is a sophisticated manner.” his debut collection for FW’20. “The concept strong nod to the brand’s Italian heritage and of Italian good taste is the starting point for aesthetic. Although tinged with nostalgia — Chiapponi successfully navigates the fine all my collections, I am in love with it and evoking an era where a gentleman in the line between respecting the house codes while never before has it been as fundamental as in countryside might dress up in coordinating introducing a new point of view on the idea of layers, with cosy knits and well-tailored formal dressing, one that is especially relevant 48

to the times. “The main values — elegance, CONVERSATION/DECODE quality and craftsmanship — are always there. Clockwise from bottom They are reinterpreted from a contemporary left: Tod’s creative perspective, because they break away from director Walter the concept of formal, tailored clothing,” he Chiapponi; accessories says. The collection features fresh takes on from the collection modern classics like field jackets and shearling- marry craftsmanship lined coats that feel supple and young, and and a refined simplicity are made with tactile fabrics like cashmeres, tweeds, corduroy, velvets and knits. “The garments are deconstructed, the lines are clean and soft, and the looks are surprisingly layered, with the double-sided trench coat worn over the chunky jumper, worn over the wool blazer or over the turtleneck jumper. Elegance takes on a more bohemian feel, but is always treated with the highest quality materials and techniques,” he explains. The accessories in this collection are also a highlight, due to Tod’s expertise as well as Chiapponi’s deft hand and clever interpretation. Luxurious suede sneakers in an autumnal palette, sleek Wellington boots and refined yet minimalist bags contribute to the sense of ease and modernity. “Accessories are definitely the elements that give the collection its strong character. For this fall/ winter, I thought of very large accessories, because I have in mind a cosmopolitan man, ready to travel — a free man, a man who enjoys life. Obviously, everything is made with full awareness of the raw material and the technique. For this reason, for example, I designed a soft bag, with few seams, almost raw cut, very light, that can be worn over the shoulder and that easily adapts to the body for greater comfort,” says Chiapponi. When asked for his take on how a man should go about building his wardrobe, Chiapponi says there are no hard and fast rules, but rather, that one’s wardrobe should be adapted to the individual. “The message I want to convey is that there is not always the same pattern to build your wardrobe. It seems that the new vision for Tod’s is in Each individual piece has its own identity, line with what the world is demanding, clothes but it can always be combined with that are not just beautiful to look at but another,” he says. Again, Chiapponi has well-constructed, timeless and comfortable. drawn inspiration from a traveller who is Chiapponi doesn’t believe in overdesigning able to be well put together yet have an clothes and this shows in the unstudied unstudied elegance. “I always think of this aesthetic of this collection. However, when man who travels, who has no ties, and asked if the new way of life has influenced who can quickly pick up a few pieces to his belief on the purpose of clothing, fill his suitcase, because the looks are Chiapponi has a nuanced and balanced take. composed by themselves, wearing one “Absolutely, but not completely. There is a piece over another. Each piece carries desire to dress more comfortably, with less with it an idea of freedom and this structured clothes, but elegance and essence of good taste,” he says. sophistication are not lost,” he says. 49

natural It’s a work of raw romance landscapes when texture meets sculptural photography DYON ANG — in this case, the buzzing chemistry of skin on flacon

SPOTLIGHT/DECODE F****** Fabulous EDP, from $300, by TOM FORD BEAUTY 51

DECODE/SPOTLIGHT

This page: Lil Fleur EDP, from $274, by BYREDO. Opposite: Othoniel Rosa EDT, $215, by DIPTYQUE 53

This page: Amber Musk EDP, from $198, by AERIN. Opposite: Hero EDT, from $118, by BURBERRY 54

SPOTLIGHT/DECODE model: ZAC TAN

HOW IT STARTED, photography ZHANG MINHUA / TELESCOPE STUDIOS styling EUGENE LIM Inspiration often comes from unexpected places; our curation of fashion pieces from the FW’21 collections is a case in point 56

MOODBOARD/DECODE Wool and silk mesh turtleneck, by VALENTINO HOW IT’S GOING

DECODE/MOODBOARD 58

MOODBOARD/DECODE Mini Cassette cross body bag, $1,230, by BOTTEGA VENETA 59

DECODE/MOODBOARD 60

MOODBOARD/DECODE Silver nose plaster jewellery, by ALAN CROCETTI at SSENSE 61

DECODE/MOODBOARD 62

MOODBOARD/DECODE Rebel Meta Sneaker in silver leather, $1,150, by SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 63

DECODE/MOODBOARD 64

model: JUN/MISC MANAGEMENT; makeup: SHA SHAMSI using CHANEL BEAUTY and KEUNE; photography assistant: JEREMY KIERAN/TELESCOPE STUDIOS; styling assistant: DEA WOENARDI Culbuto Sellier Rollerball pen, $1,300, by HERMES 65 MOODBOARD/DECODE

FEATURE Sweet, sweet pain. As Asian societies change their perspective on what it means to be inked, five new-age tattoo-artists are carving out their own niches, making their mark online, and on skin text CHELSEA TANG photography KATHERINE ANG styling JENINE OH

art work by CALVIN TAN The Skin Trade

FEATURE/ARTIST KEITH YEO, 26 @ANGMOHKEITH 68

eith Yeo’s ink forte marries two of his ARTIST/FEATURE greatest influences: the music that he 69 listened to at a young age, and the K sights that he grew up with in Shanghai and Singapore. The former, comprising punk and metal (a pop-punk band’s name is one of the first few tattoos that he got on his forearm and has since been blacked out), and the latter, being temples, dragons and Foo dog statues. “More and more I want to represent those in the tattoos I’m making,” he shares. His Instagram page houses a tight curation of upbeat, energetic vivid pieces — from the classic gypsy woman to Ukiyo-e style artwork. Characterised SPECIALITY: by bold lines, heavy black shading and bright colours, TRADITIONAL Yeo’s tattoos are not for the faint of heart; they’re the AMERICAN kind of unabashed, unbridled work that if stared at WITH ASIAN long enough, might just jump out at the viewer. His interest in tattooing didn’t quite come from ICONOGRAPHY INFLUENCE an art or design background, but rather, the thrill and sense of satisfaction from getting inked. Jean-Paul Tessensohn was the tattoo artist who inspired Yeo with his work on Yeo’s skin, and they eventually became good buds and work colleagues. 2015, however, was when he got tattooed by Feroze McLeod, and eventually learnt the skill with McLeod being his mentor; Yeo was an apprentice for two years. Both artists’ works have heavy bearings on Yeo’s — who’s since finessed his own style combining traditional American with oriental influence. A jolly fellow with hearty chuckles to share, Yeo’s take on tattooing is as innocent and pure as a child’s take on candy. “Every day is a win, tattooing is the best,” his text message reads to the question, “What’s your biggest win in this line of work?” Four years of tattooing with his own clientele now might seem like a fairly long time for the everyday man, but he insists that there’s still much to learn. “Bringing it all together” — Chinese and Japanese mythology, pop culture (he’s a big fan of Sharingan, an eye motif from manga/anime series Naruto), and classic Western tattoo flash — is a definitely a niche skill he’s mastered, but “[maintaining] good posture and replying to emails on time” are others he aims to add to the list. art work by KEITH YEO

FEATURE/ARTIST very grotesque Junji Ito horror art on her,” he shares. That’s when the new “genre” of tattoos boomed, and he started embarking on even more horror manga panels — which eventually bloomed into broader, trendier requests like Naruto, Sailor Moon and Demon Slayer. It takes a fellow manga reader and anime watcher to understand — and translate on skin — the visceral feeling (of love, of loss, of defeat, of wins…) such works bring. “Even for me, when I read manga, certain panels just hit me on the spot,” SPECIALITY: Sexton says, sharing that work days tend to get “geeky” MANGA AND ANIME with customers. “So, some people feel attached that way, and want the artwork done exactly the same.” Tattooing isn’t the same as drawing on paper though, and here’s where the thorough understanding of how ink works on skin comes in: the lines can’t be too close to each other, else they’d merge; areas where sun touches the skin need special care; black-out areas must stay black on skin, among other many considerations. Eight years in, and Sexton still remembers the day it all began. Never complacent, never comfortable; he’s always game for (constructive) pressure on his back because that pushes him to y brothers would buy comic do even bigger and better. “It hit me that if this is what I want books with their own money, to do, I can’t f*ck up,” he says. “And when my work is shown so I’d have to wait for them to to the world, people will go, ‘hey, there’s such a tattoo style in \"M finish reading before I could Singapore, I want it, too.’” start,” Frankie Sexton says, touching a little on his, ahem, own origin story before the ink. Being the youngest in a family of three sons, he grew up reading a plethora of comics — Papa Sexton collected old school Hong Kong Oriental Heroes and Little Rascals series, while his brothers, nine and seven years older, bought Japanese manga with Chinese text, like Slam Dunk and Captain Tsubasa. As notable as his work is the scene (he’s even known internationally, especially in Europe, where he'd often guest spotted), Sexton didn’t actually start off tattooing anime stills and manga panels right from the get-go. The first image he ever worked into someone’s skin was actually a picture of a lion, way back when he started work at a hole-in-a-wall tattoo parlour in Chinatown in his early twenties. “It’s not something I’m proud of,” he says, laughingly. “But it’s just the nature of the craft — the more we do, the better we get.” One of his first few muses was London-based singer- songwriter Nat miel (better known as @yeule), who allowed art work by FRANKIE SEXTON Sexton to truly embrace his forté. “I tattooed a whole sleeve of 70

ARTIST/FEATURE Jacket, $3,500, by BOTTEGA VENETA FRANKIE SEXTON, 33 @FRANKIESEXTON 71

FEATURE/ARTIST grooming: MANISA TAN using KEUNE and ESTÉE LAUDER BRADLEY TAN, 33 @BRADLEYTATTOO Suit, by ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA XXX 72

ARTIST/FEATURE radley Tan has been tattooing for 18 piece of artwork that he’s done. After some pondering, he years. Eighteen years! That’s more confesses: “I don’t think so, no. I’ve had some pieces that came B than half his life spent on the craft, and with interesting significance, some of them private, some of it’s no wonder that the words “Bradley them dark.” Rather, it’s the stories behind the images he’s had from Oracle” ring familiar — Oracle the honour of immortalising on skin that keep him enthusiastic being the name of Tan's ink studio, about his profession, that remind him that the work sometimes Oracle Tattoo. goes beyond simply being a tattoo artist. “Working on these He does exclusively large-scale projects sometimes throws me into the deep end of [my clients’] projects, and does it with detailed lives,” Tan says. “I step into some sort of realm where I’m in the perfection. Think: bodysuits, sleeves, full backs, and full fronts therapist chair, and sometimes you hear narratives that are really — work that could range anywhere from 20 to 50 hours, that heart-warming, some really dark. It’s a very nice experience, spans across six months to a year. Add that on to the nature of something that I wouldn’t trade for any other profession.” his speciality — photorealistic art — and it won’t take a His eyes glint a little on the topic of Oracle. Or genius to figure out that this niche work requires extreme SPECIALITY: specifically, the crew of five that hustle in-store — he tenacity and serious skill. BLACK- specifically highlights Ian Low, a tattoo artist comrade art work by BRADLEY TAN In a way, Tan’s drawn to the challenge — literally. AND-GREY who’s been working alongside Tan for 10 years since REALISM AND the founding of the studio. In a way, establishing the “I just gravitated towards the particular art form, the PHOTOREALISTIC name of the business hasn’t mattered as much to him as journey it takes to get there, and of course, the end PORTRAITURE result,” he says. “To me, it’s very technically challenging the camaraderie that has been forged. “The crew and I to emulate all the little details you would see in a photograph, have been to multiple conventions around the world and won taking all that onto skin, while considering how it would look and awards and accolades, but if you’re to ask me about my biggest last on a person for decades.” win, I think what’s important to me are the people around me; Which may be a reason why he’s not able to pick a favourite how we positively affect each other. That’s what I take pride in.” 73

FEATURE/ARTIST here is something peaceful about Jeren 74 Lim’s work — whether you’re talking T about chubby cherubs or crawling spiders (the latter oddly enough being a frequent request from customers). He has a penchant for fantastical art when it comes to ink; nothing is off the table when it comes to illustrations. “I don’t really like things that look too ‘real’,” he lets on, albeit reservedly. A man of few words, he isn’t one to indulge in much chit-chat, much preferring to let his work speak for itself (and their creator). If it’s true that artists do leave a piece of themselves within their art, then there’s much to deduce from the fact that so much of Lim’s work carries a whimsical, Narnia- like touch. It might have something to do with an excellent grasp of the technical know-how involved in tattooing: strategic shading, featherlight lines, assertive strokes — intricacy SPECIALITY: accomplished with such finesse that it elicits swooning. ILLUSTRATIVE, Few would guess that Lim’s only been in the scene for a SEMI-REALISM year — he was previously majoring in interior design at the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts before dropping out to pursue his passion — no doubt the path of a self-proclaimed perfectionist. Despite the pressure that he puts on himself to maintain his work standards, Lim is also the creative that very tenderly describes his work as “gentle”, a truncated version of what’s on his Instagram bio: “A gentle mind”. Behind his ethereal black-and- grey pieces is an artist that needs to “let loose”, he says. “That actually remains one of my biggest challenges.” For what it’s worth, the ability to put on an almost hypnotic allure on his work transcends beyond expertise and personality. If you were to ask us, we’d wager on a high emotional intelligence — sincerity and intuition might perhaps be what makes his art pop. art work by JEREN LIM

ARTIST/FEATURE JEREN LIM, 26 @FATMILKTEA Sweater, by Z ZEGNA 75

FEATURE/ARTIST CALVIN TAN, 35 @CLVNTN Shirt, by Z ZEGNA 76 grooming: AUNG APICHAI using KEVIN MURPHY and NARS. photography assistant: AMAN JOHN. styling assistant: DEA WOENARDI

ARTIST/FEATURE lot of Calvin Tan’s work involves the chrysanthemum motif. The lush, almost feathery petals graze backs, A shoulders and thighs, most of the time fanning out across wide expanses of skin. Kiku, the Japanese term for the flower, is what Tan likes to call his inked blooms — he’s gotten so well- known in the trade for his art that the chrysanthemum eventually worked itself into the name of his own tattoo parlour, Kiku Space. To be honest, the kiku doesn’t hold much of a symbolic meaning to Tan. He had started out with smaller floral designs, gradually expanding as time went. “Chrysanthemums just stuck with me, and I guess I’m quite good at them,” he says. “We named the space after the flower, and after that I realised that chrysanthemums bloom in November, which happens to be my birth month, too.” “Quite good” is quite an understatement when it comes to describing what Tan has achieved in a mere six years of tattooing. He has a way of understanding the curves and edges of the human body, and combines that knowledge with a stippling technique (a shading process achieved by overlying multiple dots SPECIALITY: to build gradient and texture with a fine needle) to create ORNAMENTAL art that wraps around the skin in a tastefully snaking way. FLORAL “The designs are made to fit the body, and ideally, age well as time goes [by],” he adds. DESIGNS WITH ORIENTAL His biggest (and favourite) project to date was done INFLUENCES coincidentally on another tattoo artist, Victoria Woon (@ hellotako). A six month-long affair, the artwork, comprising chrysanthemums, serpents, and gradient streaks, span across both legs, from upper thigh to lower calf. “It was challenging as I’d never done such large-scale background work,” he says. “And adding to [it all was] the fact that my client was a tattoo artist herself too.” Staying consistent, and striving for further artistic developments remains high as Tan’s personal goals. It comes with a maturity and stability in one’s craft, because just a few short years ago, pursuing and pushing towards an artistic style that stood out among his peers was the priority. Outside of his usual kiku work is Slate Bleu, a series of minimal and decorative ornamental concepts created during last year’s circuit breaker. art work by CALVIN TAN “It’s a new concept that I got to realise on skin with a client who is a seafarer. It’s a simple design with elements inspired by old Japanese wave drawings,” he shares. “It further inspired me to create new concepts along the way, to approach a new direction in my work.” 77

FEATURE/DESIGNER LIFE IN TECHNICOLOUR A closer look at ERL’s FW‘21 collection, inspired by the brand’s Venice Beach roots and seminal American style moments text RENEE BATCHELOR 78