Maximum Yield USA July 2015

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT Bud Builder 1000 Bud Builder 1000 is a concentrated blend of plant proteins that helps buds grow bigger and reduces the transplant shock plants experience from sudden changes in the environment. Used throughout the grow cycle, Bud Builder 1000 is a one-part additive that can be applied as a foliar spray, root drench or in a hydroponic solution. Packed with plant proteins, Bud Builder 1000 provides plants with the strength they need to absorb nutrients more efficiently, leading to increased metabolic growth. More information can be found at your local hydro store. AgriAir Arborjet AzaSol Air Purifier Arborjet AzaSol is the first water-soluble, powdered 6% azadirachtin AgriAir is a product developed for superior, biologically based insect control. AzaSol state-of-the-art controls and repels a broad spectrum of insects, including whiteflies, air purification aphids, thrips, caterpillars, beetles and leaf miners, by inhibiting growth, device designed to feeding and reproduction. Great for indoor and outdoor use, it leaves eliminate harmful no oily residue and is designed to avoid burning under grow lights. molds, destroy Non-toxic to people and pets, AzaSol can be sprayed on a variety of odors, neutralize plant types up to and including the same day as harvest. AzaSol is pollen, and sanitize the air and hard listed by the Organic Materials Review Institute. surfaces, all while An OMRI listing causing zero is granted onlyharmful side effects. Generated ionized hydroperoxides, superoxide for products thations and hydroxide ions remove VOCs and odors, and destroy molds, meet the criteriamildews, viruses and bacteria. The level of ionized hydroperoxides for use in certifiedgenerated to sanitize and remove odor in an enclosed area are present organic production,at approximately the same levels that are constantly in the outside handling andair. The lifespan of generated oxides is approximately 15 minutes, processing. Theseafter which the unused oxides convert back to H2O and O2, leaving products undergo aair clean and fresh-smelling. AgriAir equipment leaves zero chemical rigorous review tocontaminants behind, is completely safe for human exposure and is ensure compliancethe most eco-friendly air purifier on the market. For more information, with organicvisit an indoor garden retailer. standards. Visit a garden center near you for full details. Aurora Innovations Root Pots Root Pots from Aurora Innovations are the new go-to choice for smart, eco-conscious plant containers. Unlike plastic nursery pots, Root Pots are made of a permeable material that promotes vigorous root growth by allowing roots to breathe. Root Pots are not tapered like plastic pots, so they stand up well to strong winds and heavy harvests. Lasting 3-5 years, degradable Root Pots are also designed to break down after multiple seasons of use. These versatile fabric containers work for both soil growing and in hydroponics with drip lines and flood trays. Visit your nearest BWGS- authorized garden retailer to learn more.50 Maximum Yield USA | July 2015







FIGURING OUTFogponics by Sara Elliott | You’ve heard of aeroponics before, but what about fogponics? Sometimes called the next phase in aeroponics, fogponics is a hydroponic system that suspends plant roots in air and supplies them with nutrients via water droplets that are so small, they qualify as vapor. Here’s how it works.54 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



FIGURING OUT FOGPONICS If you’re into hydroponics, regardless of the system you use, you’re no stranger to water and nutrient management. From DWC (deep water culture), to NFT (nutrient film technique), to aquaponic systems, the “hydro” in hydropon- ics gets top billing for a reason. Soilless gardening relies on water as the primary vehicle used to deliver nutrients to hungry plant roots. \"At the root level, plants need oxygen from the soil to help BREAK DOWN the food they need to survive.\" What may not be as obvious is the role oxygen plays. Leaves and stems help carry out photosynthesis, producing oxygen as a byproduct, but at the root level, plants need oxygen from the soil to help break down the food they need to survive. Plants rely on the efficient delivery of water, nutrients and oxygen to grow to their full potential. And one system that delivers an ideal mix of all three of these essential items is fog- ponics. Let’s take a look at a few different hydroponic options to help us understand what makes fogponics so special.56 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



FIGURING OUT FOGPONICS Photo credit: flickr.com/fadetofuture.MEDIA-BASED HYDROPONIC SYSTEMS The roots dangle below into a box structure containing a network ofIn a basic hydroponic set-up, media is a substitute for soil. spray nozzles that deliver nutrientsThere are lots of different types of hydroponic media, butthey all tend to be chemically inert, heavy enough to anchor to them on aplant roots and porous enough to allow for good oxygen timed schedule.access and water/nutrient distribution. There are some Excess nutrientsdrawbacks to using media, though. Media can clog feed are recycledlines, entangle roots, harbor bacteria, algae or fungi, or loseporosity over time. In some systems, switching from one type and reused.of media to another can be a problem, too. During the early development of aero-IMMERSION SYSTEMS ponics, some interesting things came to light. OneIn an immersion system, delicate roots remain in a liquid of the most significant is thatenvironment most if not all of the time, and definitely the increased access to oxygenthroughout a plant’s early development. The anchoring in an aeroponic system enhancesmedia is replaced by a basket or other simple support struc- plant growth a lot. Another is that theture that makes roots easy to see and easier to remove when continuous delivery of nutrients and oxygenor if plants are eventually transferred to soil or another in lavish amounts is an efficient way to farm.growing environment. Plants don’t waste energy searching for food, and since there is no real competition for \"While aeroponic systems supply nutrients, and no incidental reduction in oxygen supply, plants can be grown in closenutrients to plant roots, FOGGERS proximity to one another, saving space, time and money. Sounds pretty good.deliver vapor to stems and leaf nodesas well as roots.\" When roots are suspended in watermore than intermittently, they needspecial treatment in the form ofsupplemental oxygen. The gaps andpores in conventional growingmedia make oxygen readily avail-able to roots, and conventionalhydroponic systems also includeprocesses that removeand replace waterand nutrients regu-larly, giving plantsincreased exposure tothe air. In submersion sys-tems, oxygen is added throughthe use of an air stone, the sameway oxygenated water is suppliedto fish in an aquarium. Because plantsare in the water/nutrient mixture all ofthe time, pH fluctuations and temperature insta-bilities can happen suddenly and be devastating.GOING AIRBORNEAeroponics approaches things differently by bringingwater/nutrients to plant roots suspended in airinstead of providing oxygen to plant roots suspendedin water. The basic idea is pretty simple. Plants areinstalled on a platform using a support collar.58 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



FIGURING OUT FOGPONICS FOGPONICS: A BETTER MOUSETRAP60 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015 Fogponics is a form of aeroponics, sometimes called the next phase in aeroponic technology. Think of it as a refinement, but a significant one. It uses the same basic concept as aeroponics—the practice of suspending plant roots in the air of a grow box and supplying water/nutrient droplets on a timed schedule. In fogponics, though, the droplets are so tiny, they qualify as vapor. And in this case, smaller is better. Plants absorb elements most efficiently in the range of about 1-25 micrometers (µm), and though foggers work somewhat differently depending on the manufacturer and model, a fogging system will supply vapor at between 5 and 30 µm. \"Fogponics is a form of aeroponics, sometimes called the NEXT PHASE in aeroponic technology.\" While aeroponic systems supply nutrients to plant roots, foggers deliver vapor to stems and leaf nodes as well as roots, resulting in more efficient nutrient uptake and healthier plants overall. Plants absorb droplets well, but because they absorb vapor better and faster, this can be good news for growers. There’s less waste, good space conservation and less opportunity for error, especially during root feeding. How can you make a mistake spritzing plant roots to feed them? Aeroponic systems rely on precisely spaced nozzles to spray the interior of a grow box evenly. Sometimes there are voids, or plant roots can become so thick they create obstruc- tions. Clogged nozzles can also fail, killing plants that are locked out of water and nutrients. These types of problems may not be detected until it’s too late. However, with fogging systems, wider and more comprehensive dispersion is much easier to accomplish, and growers are more likely to get to all the roots evenly and consistently. This type of delivery system may also change the nature of the roots on some plants by encouraging smaller, hair-like growths that are even better at taking advantage of vapor-based feeding. Photo credit: flickr.com/fadetofuture.



FIGURING OUT FOGPONICS DISADVANTAGES There are some potential disadvantages to using a fogponic set-up, though. The fog vapor is difficult to confine, and may present a hazard to humans and pets in some circumstances. There may also be some problems with even dispersion of vapor when setting up a new system. Start-up costs can be high, and the equipment requires regular cleaning to keep from clogging, much like the nozzles in an aeroponic system. Photo credit: flickr.com/fadetofuture. ADDED PRECAUTIONS Both aeroponics and fogponics are considered advanced methods of indoor gardening. They offer some real advantages over conventional hydroponic systems, but have one drawback: they both rely on the consistent delivery of water and nutrients through the use of timers and electricity. During a power outage, whole crops can fail quickly. To avoid this type of catastrophe, implementing a second- ary power strategy, like a generator, is a good idea. Is fogponics the future of indoor gardening? Although aeroponics and fogponics are popular, conventional hydroponic systems still dominate the landscape. That may change in the future, though.62 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



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The Wonder Amendment by Chris BondWith a whole host of benefits, from improving seed germination and increasing stem strength, to helpingplants deal with drought, high temperatures and frost, kelp is an amazing additive to include in your garden.66 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015

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“KELP Kelp, a type of seaweed, contains dissolved ocean minerals and is available most commonly in powder form, a granular“ form known as kelp meal, or in liquid form. Adding kelp to is especially beneficial your garden soil is a great way to boost micronutrient levels for seedlings and organically. Fish or other marine extracts are often mixed transplants.” with kelp to add macronutrients to the mixture. Kelp is especially beneficial for seedlings and transplants.68 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015 Large-growing and usually brown, kelp has no roots. It anchors itself to the ocean floor by a part known as a holdfast. Though it seems to act like a root system, a holdfast is different than a root, as it does not absorb nutrients like roots do. The foliage of kelp are called blades and the stems are known as stipes. The stipe is a flaccid structure and cannot stand on its own. It does so with the help of an organ unique to kelp—an air bladder. The air bladder helps keep the foliage and stems afloat so the kelp can grow towards the sunlight. From there, the plant can photosynthesize and make for itself all of the wonderful nutrients that will help keep your plants healthy and productive. Some of the larger species of kelp, known not surprisingly as giant kelp, can reach heights of up to 150 ft. and grow 1-2 ft. per day. The Wonder Amendment Kelp contains more than 60 trace elements used by plants, including iron, copper, zinc, molybdenum, boron, manga- nese, cobalt and alginic acid, to name a few. It aids in the development of extensive root systems and offers natural resistance to harmful nematodes, diseases and pests. It improves seed germination, increases stem strength and helps plants deal with drought, high temperatures and frost. Kelp also increases the nutritional value of fruits and vegetables, and helps soil by improving its structure, aera- tion and moisture retention. It normalizes pH levels and stimulates soil bacteria. TYPES OF KELP AMENDMENTS Liquid Kelp Liquid kelp is usually highest in nutrients and most avail- able for immediate use by plants compared with the powder or meal form. It can be cold-processed, or enzymatically digested. The digested form is a higher-quality formulation, so expect to pay a bit more. Its use might be best reserved for high-value crops. The digested form also contains more natu- ral growth hormones (more than 60) than either of the other two extracted forms. The cold-pressed form will have less nutrients, but still offer more than powder or meal. Some of the growth hormones in liquid kelp include cytokinins to aid in the division of cells; auxins to promote root and cellular development; indoles to aid in root and bud development; and gibberellins to promote stem and seed development. This form needs to be reapplied more often, as the nutrients will be used within one month of application. Mix liquid kelp at a rate of 1-2 tbsp. per gallon of water.



KELP Kelp Meal In meal form, kelp can be incorporated into garden “The benefit of soil at a rate of 1 lb. per 100 sq. ft. Depending applications is that on weather and microbial activity in the soil, onenutrients are immediately application will begin to release nutrients in about available to plants.” four months. Of all kelp products, meal usually contains the least amount of kelp, as there may be other organic materials mixed in with it. Kelp Powder As a powder, kelp can be mixed with water and applied as a foliar feed, or put into a fertilizer injector and deliv- ered by irrigation water to plants at a rate of ¼-½ tsp. per gallon. The benefit of powder applications is that nutri- ents are immediately available to plants and remain available for several months afterwards. Making Your Own Kelp Amendments If you happen to live close to the ocean, you may be able to collect and process your own kelp amendments, but before doing so, consult local laws around harvest- ing kelp from public lands. Collect only fresh-looking kelp—after it washes ashore, it quickly begins to decompose and the beneficial elements start to dimin- ish. If it has been sitting on the shore for a while, it may also have become home to all sorts of insects you don’t want to bring into your car, home or garden. After you have collected a sufficient amount, decide if you want to create a liquid or dry amendment or if you want to add the kelp directly to your garden or com- post pile. Either way, rinse the kelp off first as it likely contains sand from the beach and possibly salt from the ocean. The rinsed material can then be added to the compost pile. To use the kelp while it’s fresh, incorporate it into either the compost pile or garden with a spade or digging fork. Depending on your environment, you may wish to dry it first, as freshly collected seaweed may attract animals to your garden. For a dry amend- ment, hang the kelp somewhere it will receive the full benefits of the sun and breeze. Once it has thoroughly dried, pulverize it into small flakes and spread it across the soil or around the base of plants. The pulverized kelp can also be added to your compost pile if you are not able to apply it directly to the soil. For a liquid amendment, you can make a kelp tea by soaking the freshly collected seaweed in a bucket of fresh water. Stir it up every few days. It can steep for several weeks to several months depending on environ- mental factors. Make sure to do this in a well-ventilated area, preferably outside—as the nitrogen breaks down, it will have a pungent aroma. It is ready to be used when it no longer has an ammonia-like smell to it. The tea will be concentrated and water should be added at a rate of three parts water to one part kelp tea.70 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



KELP “Hang the somewhere it will receive the full benefits of the sun and breeze.” The solids that remain in your “teapot” your teas while they are steeping will can be reused. You can make a second add carbon to the mix and speed up the batch of tea with the remaining solids, decomposition process as well as reduce or boost the nutrient level by adding the strong aroma of the nitrogen. some fresh kelp to it as well. The second batch will not be as nutrient- Buying Kelp Amendments dense as the first, but will still contain For gardeners unable to make their appreciable amounts of micronutrients own kelp amendments, fear not. and growth hormones. A ration of one Kelp is not a difficult amendment part tea to one part water should suf- to locate. There are currently more fice. After the second brew, the remain- than 45 registered organic kelp ing solids can be incorporated into your products on the market in the United compost pile. Kelp tea can be used as a States and an untold number of soil drench or a foliar feed. To use it as as-yet uncertified sources. You can a soil drench, aerate the soil you wish to also make your own amendments by amend with a digging fork before apply- purchasing kelp in a grocery store. ing the tea. This will add oxygen to the Though it is not a common item in soil, adding to the aerobic processes, most grocery chains, you can find it and allow your tea to cover a greater in Asian markets and specialty stores. surface area of soil. When using kelp tea as a foliar feed, On a final note, as with any chemical, consider adding an organic surfactant organic or not, make sure you wear the to help it stick to the foliage. You can proper personal protective equipment use liquid molasses, dry molasses, liquid while applying any amendment, liquid agave, fish oil or yucca extract. When or dry, and when using a commercially applying tea with a pump sprayer, prepared formulation, adhere strictly clean the sprayer out immediately after to the application instructions on the applying so any sugars or solids do not label. When it comes to pesticides clog the hose or sprayer attachment for and fertilizers, organic or not, the future applications. Adding sugars to label is the law!72 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



CLONING 101 A BACK-TO-BASICS GUIDE TO PROPAGATING PLANTS Are you ready to take the plunge and try cloning? These days, the technologies, tools and techniques are making this process easier, but there are still a few things you need to keep in mind before starting out. We had the Rx Green Solutions team share some tips to get you started.74 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015

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CLONING 101Cloning is one of the keys to a successful garden. Mastering \"Before you begin cloning,the art of cloning gives you the power to individualize your ensure everything you aregarden—not only are you able to pick and choose variet- going to use is sanitized.\"ies you want to grow, but you also have the ability to growyour favorite varieties infinitely. You also reduce the chance Choosing Mother Plantsof infecting your garden with diseases, bugs and otherunwanted annoyances because you are taking clones from There are many things to consider when choosing your motheryour own healthy plants. Cloning also saves you money by plants for clones. First and foremost, decide what varietiesallowing you to create multiple plants out of one single plant, you want to grow and choose your mother plant accordingly.eliminating the cost of buying plants season after season. Your choice of mother plant should be based on yield, flavor, Being able to clone is not easy, but it also doesn’t take a rocket plant quality, aroma and any other characteristics you feel arescientist either and like anything worth doing, practice makes important. Make sure your mother plant is sanitary—the plantperfect. Try and try again, and soon you will be a clone master, should be healthy with no signs of bugs, disease, stress or curl-passing on your favorite plant genetics for decades to come. ing leaves, and must also be a good size and a nice color.Follow these tips to ensure success in your plant nursery.Sanitation PracticesBefore you begin cloning, ensure everything you are going touse is sanitized. Diseases can spread easily when cloning, somake sure your tools, tables and equipment are thoroughlysterilized. You should also sterilize the cuttings from yourmother plant. To sterilize your cuttings, use a disinfectant likemild, soapy water or isopropyl alcohol (at a concentration of5-8%). Give them a quick dunk upside down (just the stalkand leaves), being careful not to submerge the entire plant.76 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



CLONING 101 Taking Cuttings If you have no experience with cloning, if you can, get some help from a person with more experience. When taking your cuttings, use a brand-new blade or sterilize your used blade. Look for a branch or sub-branch that is strong and healthy with no discoloration, toxicities or deficiencies. The ideal clone should be about 5-in. long. Make the cut right after the node at a 45-degree angle. It is also important to clean the stem by trimming away extra leaves and removing excess nodes so you are left with 1-2 terminal nodes at the top of the stalk. The last step is scoring your cuts. Take up to 1 in. off the stem by scraping plant tissue away from the bottom of the stem, where the cloning gel will be applied. This will help promote faster rooting and help roots grow from all directions on the stalk. \"Your growing media should be soaked in a special nutrient solution for clones.\" Using Cloning Products If you are not putting your clones in a cloning tray right away, it is important to preserve the plant by putting the fresh cuttings in sealed bags and keeping them in the refrigerator. Do not keep your cuttings in the fridge for more than 48 hours. This is not a recommended practice, but sometimes it is necessary. When you are ready to move your clones to the cloning tray, dip the end of the cutting (the bottom of your stalk that is going to be stuck in the media) in a cloning gel to stimulate the rooting. Keep the end of the cutting in the gel for a few seconds. Once your clones are dipped in the cloning gel, they need to be placed into a cloning medium or automated cloning system. Your growing media should be soaked in a special nutrient solution for clones. Cloning media includes coco and peat plugs and 1-in. stonewool cubes, which will need to be filled with this cloning nutrient solution.78 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



CLONING 101Automated cloning machines have a pump that mists anutrition solution onto the bottom of the cuttings. Mix the cloning solution with water and adjust your pHlevel to 5.5 using either a potassium hydroxide pH prod-uct to raise the pH level or a phosphoric acid product tolower the pH. There are several suitable products on themarket; ask an employee at your local indoor gardeningstore for some recommendations. Avoid pH-adjustingproducts that are derived from potassium silicate or potas-sium carbonate, as they can cause nutrient lockout. Checkyour pH levels at least once a day to ensure proper levelsare being maintained, and keep the temperature between65 and 70°F to avoid bacterial growth.Try a Cloning MachineUsing an aeroponic system when cloning is a good ideafor two main reasons. An aeroponic cloner helps to avoidimmersion of your clones in water, as this has the poten-tial to create root disease problems. An aeroponic cloneralso provides oxygen to the root system.Rx Green Solutions develops natural-based products to grow better plants. The company’s patented solutions arefocused on increasing yields and improving flower quality. Rx Green Solutions tests the efficacy of products in itsfirst-of-its-kind, state-licensed R&D facility in Denver, Colorado. The Rx team includes experienced growers andexperts who work to improve plant growth, develop new products and educate customers so they can be successful.80 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



Going With The WFL Photo by Jeff Sandersby Jeff SandersEBB + FLOW HYDROPONIC SYSTEMS Ebb and flow, or flood and drain, hydroponic systems are popular with hobby growers because they are easy and inexpensive to build, can be built to fit any space, and provide a happy home for plants to thrive in. Here’s how these systems work, and what you need to build your own.82 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



GOING WITH THE FLOWJeff's series ofcontainers ebb andflow system design.Ebb and flow, or flood and drain, hydroponic systems arepopular with home growers for many reasons. Besides howeasy they are to build, you can use almost any materials youhave lying around to build them, so you don’t need to spendmuch money to grow plants hydroponically. Also, thesesystems can be built to fit any available space, both indoorsor out, and there is no limit to the different and imaginativeways to design them for that space. Along with being inex-pensive and easy to build, plants grow well in flood and drainsystems. The flood and drain system works basically like itsounds, by simply flooding the plant’s root system with nutri-ent solution periodically rather than continuously. The main part of the system holds the containers the plants are growing in.”HOW IT WORKS Add drain holes to the containers you plan on using.The ebb and flow hydroponic system is quite simple. The main BUILD YOUR OWN FLOOD AND DRAIN SYSTEMpart of the system holds the containers the plants are grow-ing in. It can be just one plant, or many plants or containers. To build your own ebb and flow system, you need:A timer turns on the pump and nutrient solution is pumped • Containers for the plants’ roots to grow inthrough tubing from the reservoir up into the main part of • A reservoir to hold the nutrient solutionthe system using a submersible fountain or pond pump. The • A submersible fountain or pond pumpnutrient solution continues to fill the system until it reaches • A light timer to turn the pump on and offthe height of the pre-set overflow tube so it soaks the plants’ • Some tubing to run from the pump in theroots. The overflow tube should be set about 2-in. below the reservoir to the system to be floodedtop of the growing media. • An overflow tube set to the height you want When the water filling the system reaches the overflow tube the water levelheight, it drains back down to the reservoir, where it recircu- • Growing media of some kindlates back through the system again. The overflow tube sets thewater level height in the flood and drain system, and ensures thenutrient solution doesn’t spill out the top of the system while thepump is on. When the pump shuts off, the water siphons backdown into the reservoir through the pump, draining the system.84 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015

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GOING WITH THE FLOW There are many different ways to build an ebb and flow system good for grow- Jeff's flooding tray ebb and flow system design. ing small to medium-sized plants. Large86 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015 plants simply need larger systems. You can use just about anything to build one, including buckets, tubes, two-liter bottles, storage totes, water bottles, an old ice chest or trash cans. Just about anything that holds water can be used. The imagination doesn’t stop there, either—there are many ways to flood and drain the roots in the system, too. The multiple containers are all connected together through tubing so when the system is flooded, they all flood evenly, and all at the same time.” Make sure there is a way air can get in the top of the overflow without spilling water out. A “T” connector with an extension that is a few inches above the water line will work nicely. This will keep air pockets from forming in the system and make sure it floods and drains properly. Make sure the overflow tube is bigger than the water inlet tube from the pump. Otherwise, because the water is only going out through gravity, and water is coming in through pressure from the pump, you could wind up pumping in more water than what is going out the overflow. This could lead to water building up and spilling out the top of your system, unless you reduce the pressure from the pump.

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GOING WITH THE FLOW Serge tank THREE MAIN SYSTEMS design by Jeff.88 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015 There are three main types of ebb and flow set-ups: SERIES OF CONTAINERS DESIGN This type of set-up is most commonly used when many different plants in containers are being watered at the same time. It’s important to remember that the system with the plants to be flooded needs to be above the reservoir so the water can flow back into the reservoir by simple gravity, and thus drain the system correctly. The multiple containers are all con- nected together through tubing so when the system is flooded, they all flood evenly, and all at the same time. For simplicity, instead of having a separate overflow for each container being flooded, there’s usually only one overflow tube. It connects to the system at the base all the containers are connected to. When the water height reaches the top of the overflow, it spills over and goes back into the reservoir to be pumped through the system again. The flooding tray set-up is useful when you want to place plants in the system temporarily.” The height of this one overflow tube will set the height of the water level in all of the connected containers with the plants in them, as long as it’s level. You can change the water height in all of the connected containers by simply adjusting the height of the single overflow tube. FLOODING TRAY DESIGN The flooding tray set-up is useful when you want to place plants in the system temporarily, need to move them around a lot, or are starting plants to be placed in another, larger system. Instead of flooding separate containers with plants in it, this method only floods one container, usually a shallow square or rectangle container that sits on top of a table. The reservoir usually sits directly underneath. Water is pumped up from the reservoir into the flooding tray on one side, and the overflow is on the other side of the flooding tray. This ensures water circulates from one side of the tray to the other.

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GOING WITH THE FLOW Like any flood and drain SERGE TANK DESIGN The serge tank type of flood and drain set-up is useful when system, the overflow more vertical space is required. With flood and drain systems, the reservoir is typically lower than the hydroponic system so tube height sets the the nutrient solution can drain out of the system via the force of gravity and back into the reservoir through the overflow, water height during the and when the pump is off. But you can still set up a flood and drain system even when the water level in the reservoir is flooding cycle and can higher than the hydroponic system it’s supposed to flood and drain back from by using a serge tank. be adjusted as needed. The serge tank type of Plants are grown in flood and drain set-up is useful when more vertical regular plastic pots or space is required.” baskets, and placed in The serge tank system costs more to build because there are many more parts needed. It works on the principle that water the flooding tray like seeks its own level. In other words, the water height in one container will be the same in another container when they are regular potted plants. connected below the water line. The serge tank serves as a tempo- rary reservoir that controls the water height in all the containers However, unlike regular with the plants in them, and is only full during the flooding cycle. potted plants, hydroponic growing media is used to pot the plants instead of potting soil. Once theThe overflow tube goes straight plants get big enough,down into the reservoir in the they can be transferredseries of containers system. into a permanent hydroponic system.One downside to using the flooding table is that algae tendsto grow on it, so it should be cleaned out regularly. The topof the tray is usually left open, and light is allowed to get intothe nutrient solution in the bottom of the tray, allowing algaeto grow. The algae alone isn’t really bad for the plants, but itdoes use up dissolved oxygen in the water.90 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015

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GOING WITH THE FLOW The serge tank serves as a temporary reservoir that controls the water height in all the containers with the plants in them.” The system oper- ates by pumping nutrient solution from the much- larger main reser- voir into the serge tank when the pump timer goes on. As the water level rises in the serge tank, Black vinyl tubing keeps things connected. the water level rises evenly in all the connected plant containers at the same time. When the water level gets high enough, a float valve in the serge tank turns on a pump in the serge tank. The pump in the serge tank then pumps water back into the main reservoir. At this time, both pumps are on—the pump in the main reservoir and the serge tank. After the timer for the pump in the main reservoir shuts off, the pump in the serge tank is still on. The pump in the serge tank continues pumping all of the water back into the main reservoir, draining the system, until the water level gets low enough. At that point, a second float valve shuts off the pump in the serge tank. This article was originally published on homehydrosystems.com. For more diagrams of these hydro systems, check out this handy resource.92 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



GREEN THUMB GARDENING Plant Your Own Herb Garden Fresh herbs provide an extra burst of flavor for your culinary creations, and many herb plants are easy to grow and can be moved inside when the cooler weather arrives. Follow these tips to start your own backyard herb garden. by Shannon McKee Most herbs are easy to grow, but pick ones you will actually use or ones that work well as companion plants to other plants you are growing.” 94 Maximum Yield USA | July 2015

Herbs are nature’s way of making 1 Pick herbs for a reason 5 Harvest oftenfood taste better. They are also used Pick herbs that work the best Harvest often after your herbs arein natural remedies for a wide range for your purposes. Most herbs are several inches tall. Herbs will growof maladies, so what better way to get easy to grow, but pick ones you will more abundant the more you harvesthealthy than by growing your own actually use or ones that work well them. Be sure to harvest no more thanherb garden? Herbs do not have to as companion plants to other plants a third of the plant at once, and waittake up a lot of space, and can be you are growing. Some great starter for regrowth before harvesting again.moved indoors or out depending on herbs include thyme, rosemary,the season. With the summer growing dill, sage, oregano, chives, parsley, 6 Dry the herbsseason here, it is a great time to get peppermint, catnip and lavender. After harvest, you might want tosome herbs growing outside. Here preserve some of your herbs for laterare some tips on starting your own 2 Choose your location carefully use. Drying is one popular methodbackyard herb garden. Many household herbs grow best of preparing herbs for storage. Some in well-drained soil in a sunny spot in herbs, like parsley and chives, should your yard, but be sure to read labels only be used fresh, as they do not on what each of the plants require. retain their flavor well when dried. Compost can be added to boost the Herbs can also be frozen. One fun way nutritional content of your soil. to freeze herbs is to create ice cubes with them that can be added to cold 3 Pot your herbs water, soups, stews or other dishes. If you are short on garden space, They either melt into the water for a put your herbs in pots.That way, you tasty and healthy drink or cook into can always bring them indoors when the dish being prepared. it starts getting cooler out. 7 Share the experience 4 Pinch them off Herb plants are usually quite Most herbs are useful for their hardy, meaning they can be wonderful leaves rather than their flowers, so for little hands. Encourage your pinching the flowers off can be a good children or grandchildren to help way to keep the focus on producing you plant an herb garden. This leaves over flowers. could inspire a lifelong passion for gardening. Little pots, little tools andBe sure to harvest no more than a starting with seeds can all be fun waysthird of the plant at once, and wait to appeal to children.for regrowth before harvesting again.”Herbs can be a great gateway into backyard gardening for all ages. They are easyto grow and maintain, and can be brought indoors for the winter. Herbs providethat extra spike of flavor in many dishes, and think of how much your cat will loveyou when you put some freshly dried catnip in their favorite toys. The time is nowto start your own little backyard farm-to-table movement.Shannon McKee lives in Ohio and has been a freelance writer for several years now, including on her blog, whyiwah.blogspot.com.Nicknamed a garden hoarder by loved ones over the past few years, she grows a wide variety of plants in her urban garden. Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015 95

Humic What Kindor Fulvic are your Acid: PLANTS ON? by Harley Smith Humic and fulvic acids are natural, complex molecules that improve the uptake of nutrients in bothsoil and hydroponics. Sourcing these acids for your garden can be tricky, though, as it hasn’t always been easy to tell which products contain either ingredient—until now. Read on to discover the differences between these two substances, and the best ways to apply them to your plants.96 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015



HUMIC OR FULVIC ACID D o you know the difference between humic and fulvic acids? If you don’t, you’re not alone. Even the regulators at the USDA haven’t been able to agree on a definition, and it has been causing a lot of confusion in product labeling. Nevertheless, humic and fulvic acids are some of the best biostimulant products in nature, improving the uptake of nutrients in both soil and hydroponics, and once you understand the difference between the two, you will soon discover many applications for your garden. Humic and fulvic acids are intermediate chelators. Chela means claw, so chelates are organic molecules that attach to mineral ions like a claw, holding them tightly enough so they don’t get locked up in the soil, but loosely enough so they are available to the plant on demand. Humic acid molecules are larger than fulvic acid molecules and make great soil conditioners. Fulvic acids are smaller, more biologically active molecules that are faster-acting and make excellent foliar sprays. Both improve the uptake of minerals, stimulate plant growth and improve the plant’s natural resistance to environmental stresses. “Humic acid molecules are larger than fulvic acid molecules and make great soil conditioners.” Humic and Fulvic Acid Combos Most humic acid products on the market are actually a combination of humic and fulvic acids. The humic acid fraction consists of larger molecules with lots of positive and negative charges on the surface of the molecules. It isn’t actually taken up through the roots, but it lightly holds onto minerals in the root zone, making them much more available to plants. It is especially helpful98 Maximum Yield USA  |  July 2015