crd document

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kangra

Research and Documentation of Cluster Creations Gahar, Kullu, Himachal Pradesh. Documented by Astha Dhiman, Apoorva Dahiya, Ishita Sharma, Rinku Jangra, Sailee Pawar and Sanskar Koli Center: Kangra Copyright© 2023 By NIFT, Kangra National Institute Of Fashion Technology, Kangra Department Of Fashion Technology. All rights reserved. The publication is the intellectual property of the Department of Fashion Technology, National Institute of Fashion Technology. It is purely for academic purposes and no part of it may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form through photocopying, recording, or any other electronic or mechanical methods. Faculty Mentor: Mr. Niraj Jaiswal CC: Mr Aman Kumar Nagpal 2 Craft Research Document, 2023

Acknowledgement We would like to extend our sincere gratitude to the Director of The National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kangra Shri Akash Kumar Dewangan IRS for providing us with the facilities and education needed to complete this document. We are also thankful for the opportunities and support provided to us by our Center Coordinator, Mr. Aman Kumar Nagpal and our faculty mentor, Mr Nijar Kumar Jaiswal who assisted and guided us along the way and provided us with extremely valuable feedback and suggestions. Lastly, we would like to thank Mr Prem Nath Ji, who took the time out of his schedule to enlighten us about his craft and the lifestyle that it supports. The research for this document would not have been completed without him. Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 3

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Preface This document was created as part of a requirement for the topic craft cluster project of the bachelor’s degree program in fashion technology for the academic year 2022-2023. This document is an interactive compilation of research on the craft of Kullu hand knitting. For the purpose of craft cluster documentation, we visited gahar, Kullu for a duration of 5 days. This time was spent learning about the craft of hand knitting and the artisans who have carried on the tradition for decades. Our goal was to examine the variables that distinguish this craft. We concentrated on recognising the barriers to conserving its legacy while retaining its essence. The objective of this craft study is to learn about female knitters and the involvement of those who work in this field of knitting with their incredible skills every day to help and sup- port their families to live a comfortable life by earning extra money. However, there has been little research focused on understanding the hand knitting process and their knit patterns, structures, motifs, designs, and so on, which have been practised traditionally for a long time. A Questionnaire was created to help those who work for organisation understand the current condition of this craft. There are numerous programmes and services available to assist these artisans in establishing small Handicraft busi- nesses that produce high-quality knitted goods and sell them at right place in the market. Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 5

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Methodology The research was conducted to examine the regional tradition of hand knitting in the Kullu area of Himachal Pradesh. A study was conducted in Gahar village of Kullu to examine the hand knitting producers and to support the local artisans. The Study was conducted at Handicraft cluster Creations, Gahar, Kullu because it has a high concentration of manu- facturing organization and is known for promoting local crafts. Study involves conducting interviews, taking pictures, documenting the craft, and researching the people’s way of life. The questionnaire was designed to help persons who work for associations or organisations understand the current situation of this craft. Additionally, 16 in-depth interviews generated 16 pieces of qualitative data. The analysis of the interviews used an organised comparative methodology. Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 7

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Kullu The enriched History Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 11

Kullu Kullu, located in Himachal Pradesh, India, is a scenic valley that entices visitors with its pure beauty and calm ambiance. The majestic Himalayan peaks tower over the valley, creates a dramatic backdrop. The Beas River flows gracefully through the region, adding a touch of serenity. Kullu is steeped in traditions and customs that have been passed down through generations. The valley is famous for its vibrant festivals, with the Kullu Dussehra being the most prominent. During this grand celebration, the town comes alive with processions, music, and dance performances. The folk dance, Naati showcase the rich cultural tapestry of the region. The traditional attire, adorned with intricate embroidery and colorful patterns, adds to the visual splendor of Kullu’s cultural heritage. Kullu thrives on agriculture, tourism, and handicrafts. The fertile land of the valley supports the cultivation of a variety of crops, including apples, plums and pears. The handicraft industry is a major contributor to the econ- omy, with Kullu renowned for its handwoven shawls, and traditional wooden artifacts. The craftsmanship of the local artisans is renowned worldwide, and the handicraft sector provides employment opportunities for many in the valley. 12 Craft Research Document, 2023

History Kullu is a beautiful valley in the Indian state his pilgrimage to India in the 7th century. of Himachal Pradesh. This region, nestled In the 17th century, Kullu came under the within the majestic Himalayas, has a rich his- rule of the Mughal Empire. Raja Jagat Singh, tory extending back thousands of years. the then-ruler of Kullu, aided Mughal Emper- According to local legends, Kullu Valley was or Aurangzeb in his campaigns and received once known as “Kulanthapitha,” meaning his favor. The influence of Mughal culture the end of the habitable world. It is believed can still be seen in the architecture and art of to have been inhabited since the prehistoric the region. After India gained independence era by indigenous tribes. Over time, various in 1947, Kullu became a part of the state of dynasties and rulers have left their mark on Himachal Pradesh. Since then, the valley has this land. experienced significant development in in- frastructure, tourism, and agriculture. In ancient times, the area came under the in- Today, Kullu is renowned for its breathtak- fluence of the Mauryan Empire and later the ing natural beauty, traditional handicrafts, Gupta Empire. However, it was during the and vibrant culture. It attracts tourists from 8th century that Kullu gained prominence as all over the world who come to explore its a separate kingdom under the rule of the lo- lush green valleys, snow-capped peaks, and cal Raja Bansen. participate in various adventure activities like trekking, river rafting, and paragliding. During the medieval period, Kullu Valley The traditional festivals, especially the Kul- witnessed the spread of Hinduism and the lu Dussehra, continue to be celebrated with construction of numerous temples, many great enthusiasm, showcasing the region’s of which still stand today as important reli- deep-rooted cultural heritage gious sites. The valley was also visited by the famous Chinese traveler Hiuen Tsang during Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 13

Geography Kullu is located at an elevation of 1278 me- tres above sea level on the banks of the mighty Beas River. A tributary named Sarvari flows from the Beas and is responsible for fertilis- ing the valley.The weather in Kullu is pleas- ant all year. December and January are the coldest months, with temperatures dropping to 4 degrees and even below zero at times. During these months, there is a chance of snow- fall. The warmest months are May and August, with temperatures ranging from 25 to 37 de- grees Celsius. July and August witness a lot of rain In October and November, the weather is at its best. In Kullu, vegetation covers up to 70% of the land area. Kullu’s southern portions are dense- ly forested with shisham, sal, pine, and deodar. Kullu also contains a diverse range of oaks, blue pines, and fir trees. 14 Craft Research Document, 2023

Gladiolas, roses, fragrant chrysanthemums, lilies, tulips, Cultural & Lifestyle gladiolas, and carnations can be found in the summer and autumn. The Kullu valley is heavily invested in horticulture The Kullu Valley, is known for its rich cultural heritage and vi- and natural life conservation. it has been evidenced by the 32 brant traditions. The region is predominantly inhabited by the sanctuaries and two national parks. Kullu people, who follow a unique set of customs and beliefs. Kullu is surrounded on all sides by significant geographical The Kullu Valley is home to a large number of local deities, and their landmarks. Here is the Bijli Mahadev temple. Hundreds of worship is an integral part of the culture. The deities are believed to Lord Shiva devotees visit this temple to worship and pray. protect the people and bring prosperity. Each village has its own tem- ple dedicated to the local deity, and special rituals and ceremonies are To the east of Kullu are the twin temples of Monty performed to seek their blessings. Nag and Pueed. Manikaran Valley, located on the out- skirts of Kullu, flanks the Parvati River. The Parva- The people of the Kullu Valley have a deep reverence for nature. They ti and Beas rivers eventually meet at Bhuntar’s sangam. believe in the sacredness of mountains, rivers, and forests. Many rit- Beyond these rivers lie the valleys of Anni, Banjar, and Siraj. uals and ceremonies are performed to honor the natural elements and Another neighbourhood nearby is the Mandi district. seek their blessings Many famous Himachal Pradesh hill stations are located The primary language spoken in the Kullu Valley is Kullvi, which is north of Kullu valley. Beyond the towns lies the famous and a dialect of the Western Pahari language deep Rohtang pass, which leads to the Lahaul valley and the Sipti valley. The Kullu Valley is known for its vibrant folk dances and music. Jhoori is one example of it’s vibrant musical culture. Jhoori is a tradi- Tourism plays a significant role in the local economy, with tional Kullu folk song sung during wedding celebrations. It is usually visitors flocking to Kullu to witness its natural beauty and performed by women in a call-and-response format, with one woman indulge in adventure activities. leading the song and the others joining in chorus. One of the most famous dance forms of the state is naati. These danc- es are performed during festivals and other special occasions, accom- panied by traditional musical instruments like the dhol, nagara, and shehnai. Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 15

Occupation Farmers make up the vast majority of Kullu’s pop- ulation. Because of the abundance of natural re- sources, such as fertile soil, forests, farms, lakes, and snow-capped high peaks, people have primarily been farmers. Apples, plums, apricots, peaches, and pomegranates are major economic produces. Horticulture and bee- keeping are also popular pastimes. The Kullu Valley’s enormous tourist potential has drawn an increasing number of people to the hotel and tourism businesses. This industry benefits a large portion of the population. People are are also invested in the handloom in- dustry. In the shawl industry alone, the hand- loom industry has grown into a cottage industry that employs between 20000 and 22000 people. 16 Craft Research Document, 2023

Demographics Kullu district has its headquartes at kullu city, 43km south to Manali. Kullu District has population of 437,903 of which male and female were 225,452 and 212,451 respectively. Average literacy rate of Kullu in 2011 is 79.40. male and female litera- cy are 87.39 and 70.91 respectively .Total literate in Kullu District were 307,672 of which male and female were 174,550 and 133,122 respectively. With regards to Sex Ratio in Kullu, it stood at 942 per 1000 male Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 17

Festivals and Fairs Kullu dusserra: Kullu Dussehra is an Shamshi virshu: this fair is held in a iconic festival in the scenic Kullu Val- village named Khokhran on 1st Bai- ley, Himachal Pradesh, India. Lasting sakh, that is 13th of April. The god- for seven days in October, it stands out dess is worshipped outside the temple for commencing on Vijayadashami. as well. The people offer young yellow The highlight of the festival is the ma- sheets of barley which are specially jestic procession of over a hundred local sown for the occasion and is offered to deities, carried on beautifully adorned the Devi along with garlands. Then a palanquins, accompanied by traditional male goat is sacrificed. Men stay on as music and dance. The festivities draw spectators as women dance around the both locals and tourists, showcasing the deity. region’s rich cultural heritage and reli- gious fervor, making it one of the most Mela bhuntar: this fair is held in Bhu- celebrated and vibrant events in the ntar for 3 days from 1st Ashad (June- country. July). The fair is both seasonal and religious. This fair was started by the Pipaljatra: The traditional name of this Devta of Suraj Pal. On this day the use festival Vasantotasava is Pipal Jatra or it of food grains from the newly harvested is also called Rai-ri-Jach. It takes place crops starts and after cooked food of- in Dhalpur, Kullu on 16th Baisakhan- ferings are made to the gods and then nualy. Traditionally the Raja of Kullu the meal is shared by other relatives and used to sit in front of the ‘Kala Kendra’ friends. This is known as Tahoolikhana on a raised platform of Pipal Tree with in the local terminology. his courtiers and the traditional dance was held in front of him. The Baishakha is the month of spring season in Kullu Valley. So the fair has been renamed as Vasantotsava or Spring festival. Cultur- al programs are organized with classical music songs and dances here annualy. It is held from 28 to 30 april every year. 18 Craft Research Document, 2023

Dialects Kulluvi’ is Kullu’s original tongue. Three sub-dialects—Outer Seraji, Inner Seraji, and Sainji—are further separated into it. Dialect of inner Seraji is frequently used Between the South of Jallori Pass and the Korpan Valley. The dialect of outer seraji is extensively spoken from the north of the Jallori Pass, which stretches to Aut, which is located 28 kilometres from Kullu. Sainji: Sainji is a commonly spoken language in the Sainj Valley, which is located 35 km from Kullu. Within the Kullu district, several words in the Kul- luvi dialect have different usage and pronunciation patterns. The dialect of Kullu, serves as the foundation for the dialects of the Mandi, Kangra, and Chamba districts. Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 19

Gahar Demographics Gahar is a village in the Kullu tehsil of the Kullu district of Himachal Pradesh, India. It is 22 km from Kullu, the district and sub-district headquarters of Gahar village. The village has a total land area of 209.68 hectares. Gahar has a total population of 720 people, 376 of whom are male and 344 of them are female. Gahar village has a literacy rate of 65.28%, with 75.00% males and 54.65% females. Gahar village has around 145 houses. Pincode of area is 175102. Total sown/agricultural area is 150.72 ha. About 150.72 ha is un-irrigated area. About 47.92 ha is in non-ag- ricultural use. About 11.04 ha is under miscellaneous tree crops. For all important economic activity, Kullu is the closest town to Gahar Village. 20 Craft Research Document, 2023

Handicrafts of Kullu The Kullu valley’s artisans uphold a rich tradition of handicrafts temples contain exquisite woodcarvings. These traditionally built and handlooms. Kullu offers a staggering variety of exquisite hand- temples exhibit amazing woodworking. The slipper Pulla com- crafted and woven goods. The vibrant traditional colors of hand- posed of fibers from marijuana stemsIn Kullu, there are lots of looms likely reflect peoples’ enthusiasm for life and creation. lesser-known crafts. The most widely used include baskets, straw carpets, mattresses, woolen quilts, and slippers made of grass. Kullu shawl Handloom The renowned Kullu shawls are admired for their sophisticated ap- pearance. Tourists and locals both favor kullu caps, which are fre- A sizable portion of the population in Kullu Valley works in the quently worn by both groups. Other handloom goods made mostly handicraft sector. Total production from government-registered in Kullu include warm regional Tweeds, Pattus, Mufflers, etc. handlooms in 1997–98 was worth Rs. 27.07 crore. Wood & Metal Crafts Mohra, a deity’s Disguise, Mohras (the deity masks), ornaments, musical instruments, numerous household items, and sheet metal products are among the metal crafts produced in Kullu. The Kullu Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 21

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Knitting History & Steps Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 23

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From Wool to Yarn Shearing: Skilled shearers use hand clippers to carefully To make products like sweaters and mufflers, artisans use shear the wool from the sheep’s body. It requires preci- synthetic wool. They buy this wool from local shops in sion and expertise to ensure the sheep’s safety and to obtain neighbouring town. Baby wool and cashmere wool are typ- a clean and uniform fleece. ically used here. Skirting and Sorting: After shearing, the fleece is spread Wool is sold according to its weight. Wool comes in hanks, out, and skilled workers, often known as “wool sorters,” and to make it usable and keep it from tangling, it must be examine the fleece to remove any soiled or heavily contam- rewound into balls of manageable size. inated parts. They then sort the fleece based on its quality, texture, and fiber length by hand. The woolen hank is wrapped over the legs of the artisan while they sit down on the floor with their legs crossed. The Washing: The sorted fleece is washed by hand to remove loops are untied and rewinding begins. dirt, grease (lanolin), sweat, and other impurities. Workers gently agitate the wool in water with mild soap or deter- They hold the thread in one hand and move it around the gent, then rinse it thoroughly. This step may be repeated other hand. Artisans make sure the ball isn’t too tight or too until the wool is clean. loose. Once, the desired thickness of ball is archived, it is seperated by cutting the thread. Carding: Hand carding tools called hand cards are used for this step. Workers take a small amount of washed and dried The process is repeated till wool is either fin- wool and place it on one hand card. They then use another ished of desired number of balls are made. The pro- hand card to comb through the fibers repeatedly until they cess of knitting can continue once balls are prepared. are aligned and untangled. The process requires skill and patience. However, our artisans send their fleece for comb- ing to a nearby mill. Spinning: Hand spinning is the most labor-intensive step. A spindle locally called a Takli is used here. The spinner draws out the fibers and allows them to twist together, cre- ating a continuous thread as they spin the wheel or spindle with one hand while managing the fibers with the other. Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 25

Introduction Knitting is a process of Fabric can be formed by manufacturing a fabric hand or machine knitting by inter looping of yarns. It , but the basic principle re- is the second most import- mains the same i.e. pulling ant method of fabric forma- a new loop through the old tion. It can be defined as a loop. Knitted Fabric are needle technique of fabric popular for their shape fit- formation, in which, with ting property, soft handle, the help of knitting needles, bulkier nature and high loops are formed to make a extension at low tension. fabric or garment. 26 Craft Research Document, 2023

History The word knitting is derived Reverent William Lee, in 1589 from the Sanskrit word Nahyati. a resident of England invented According to the textile histo- the first knitting machine with ry, it is said that finger knitting bearded needle. The gauge of the started since 1000 BC. In finger machine was 8npi and afterwards knitting, the fabric was produced it was made upto 20npi.The ma- on the hand using the fingers. chine had a potential of knitting The looping was done on the fin- 10 times more than hand knit- gers. The fabric was produced by ting with two pins.Further many removing a new loop through an more warp and weft machines old loop. were developed but the principle Since the fabric produced on remained the same. the hand was smaller in width In the 18th century, rib knitting the peg knitting was introduced. machine, warp knitting machines The finger knitting had only 4 and circular knitting frame was loops in width but in peg knit- invented. In the 19th century, ting more numbers of loops was latch needle, compound needle, possible. According to the width fashioning mechanism, seam- of the fabric the number of pegs less heal and toe i.e. sock, flat was decided. Hand knitting with knitting machine, interlock knit- 2 pins was practiced since 256 ting were invented all over the AD. The knitted fabrics were pre- world In the 20th century, dou- pared with the help of 2 pins. In ble cylinder circular machine, about 5th century AD an oldest electronic needle selection, re- knitted article (sock) was seen. lanit principle, Pizo electron- ic jacquard etc were invented. Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 27

Steps of Knitting • Select knitting needles and yarn. your work so that the needle with the • Make a slipknot by wrapping the stitc yarn around itself and pulling the end • Knit each row as you go through steps through. 10-14 until your project is the desired • Hold the needle in your right hand with length. the slipknot and the empty needle in • Finish by tying off the stitches. Knit the your left. first two stitches, then cross the first over • Insert the right needle from front to the second and off the needle. Knit one back into the slipknot, then wrap the more stitch, then lift the previous one yarn over the right needle anticlockwise. over the new one and off the needle. • Insert the right needle and wrapped Continue until only one stitch remains. yarn through the slipknot to make a new • Leave a tail of yarn and pull it through stitch. the final stitch to secure it. • Place the new stitch on the needle on the • Using a tapestry needle, weave in any left. loose ends to ensure they are secure and • Repeat steps 5-7 until your left nee- hidden. dle has the desired number of cast-on stitches. • With your left hand, hold the needle with the cast-on stitches and your right hand, hold the empty needle. • From left to right, insert the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle. • Wrap the yarn anticlockwise around the right needle. • Slip the old stitch from the left needle and pull the right needle and wrapped yarn through the stitch. • Knit all stitches by repeating steps 10-12 for each stitch across the row. • When you reach the end of the row, turn 28 Craft Research Document, 2023

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Crochet History & Steps Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 31

Crochet Crochet is a craft technique that involves creating fabric and other items with a crochet hook and yarn or thread. It is a versatile and popular needlework technique that al- lows people to make everything from clothing and accesso- ries to home decor and toys. Stitches are formed in crochet by pulling loops of yarn through other loops to form chains, rows, and patterns. Cro- chet hooks are used to manipulate yarn and create various stitch patterns and textures. Crochet, unlike knitting, is done with a single hook, making it easier for some people to learn and work with. One of the benefits of crochet is its adaptability and flexibil- ity. It enables the use of various yarn weights, colours, and textures, which can significantly alter the appearance and feel of the finished project. Crochet also provides a wide range of stitch patterns and techniques, enabling crafters to create intricate lacework, textured designs, and even three-dimen- sional items such as amigurumi (crocheted stuffed toys). 32 Craft Research Document, 2023

History of Crochet Crochet is a craft that has recently Crochet has given women in India the gained popularity in India. While it ability to earn an income and become does not have a long history in the financially independent. Several ini- country, it is becoming more popular tiatives and organisations have helped among crafters. Crochet was brought women learn and practise crochet. to India by people from other parts The crocheting community in India of the world, such as Europe and the has grown over time. Many people United States. Crocheters in India be- enjoy crocheting as a hobby or as a came interested in the craft and began small business by selling their hand- to experiment with it. crafted crochet items. Crochet has It was taught and practised by Indian gained popularity in India as a result artisans and crafters. Crochet was of events, exhibitions, and online a natural fit for many artisans who platforms that showcase the work of already had skills in other types of Indian crocheters. needlework, such as embroidery or Crochet has made its way into Indian knitting. fashion, accessories, home decor, and Indian crocheters began to incorpo- art. rate Indian design elements into their work. They used traditional motifs, patterns, and colours to give their creations a distinct Indian flavour. Department of Fashion Technology, Kangra 33

Steps of Crochet • Get your materials: A crochet hook and yarn are re- quired. Select a hook size appropriate for your yarn weight. • Tie a slipknot: Make a loop with the yarn and leave a tail. Insert the hook through the loop and pull the yarn tight to tighten the hook knot. • Begin a foundation chain with your dominant hand holding the hook. Wrap the yarn around the hook from back to front and yarn over. Pull the yarn through the slipknot loop on the hook to make a new loop. Repeat this process until you have a chain of the desired length. • Master the fundamental stitches: The most common stitches are single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, and treble crochet. Each stitch necessitates a unique set of yarn overs and hook insertions. Make rows of these stitches as you practise. • Use a pattern or experiment: If you have a crochet pattern, use it to create a specific design. If not, play around with different stitches, combinations, and yarn colours to make your own one-of-a-kind piece. • Continue crocheting: Once you’ve established the first row or made a foundation chain, continue crocheting by working stitches into the loops of the previous row. This will add more rows to your fabric and help it to grow. • Finish your work: To finish, cut the yarn, leaving a tail. Pull the tail through the last loop, and gently tug to se- cure it. Weave in any loose ends using a yarn needle. 34 Craft Research Document, 2023

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