Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis® 38
Chapter 7DISCONNECTION
CHAPTER 7 7DISCONNECTIONDisconnection is our final technique and is used in conjunctionwith lines, graduation and layering to create a stronger lookwithin a haircut.• Disconnection consists of a section within the haircut that does not connect to the rest of the haircut.• Disconnection brings another dimension to your haircutting and is a very important part of salon work. The technique is used to achieve very specific objectives:To remove weightUsing disconnection on a customer with thick hair enablesthe removal of more weight than the use of other foundationtechniques.By cutting an area shorter in the underneath, we are creating aspace within the haircut. When the top panel is left longer andfalls over the underneath, the finished result appears slimmerand less bulky.Tip:• Removing weight in the crown area for fine hair provides volume, if desired. 39
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Inside or outside the haircut?• Disconnection can be used either inside the haircut to create movement and texture or outside for visual effect.• The determined use of disconnection from slight to extreme will result in how edgy or commercial the haircut looks.• During the consultation, you must observe the customer’s image. This will help you discern if your customer is suitable for disconnection.• W hen disconnection is used on the inside, it will be commercial.• When used on the outside and in outlines, it will be much more obvious and will become harder for a mainstream customer to wear.Tip:• More extreme disconnections are saved for photographic and stage work or if you have some adventurous customers. Those with the personality and image will be able to pull it off. 40
Chapter 8MEN’S HAIRCUTS – SHORT
Men’sHaircutsThe following sections provide you with step-by-stepinstructions on how to create three men’s styles: short,medium and long. Using the best practices andtechniques discussed in the previous chapters, you willbe able to achieve a new level of confidence and skillin your clipper cutting.Short length cut Medium length cut Long length cut
CHAPTER 8 8MEN’S HAIRCUTS – SHORT41
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis® Cutting a short length A short layer men’s crop with texture for movement and versatility.1 Prepare the hair by wetting it down and sectioning from front to back. Using the Andis® Cordless Envy™ Li with the blade in the open position (lever down) and using a #1 attachment comb, start the fade in the back. Then, complete on sides.2 Continue fade using same process above. Graduate the fade with blade in the closed position (lever up) with #1 attachment, open blade (lever down) with no attachment, then lastly, closed blade around the edges and nape in a c-stroke motion. Complete on sides.3 Use the Slimline® Pro Li trimmer on the neck and the ProFoil™ Lithium shaver for an ultra-smooth clean look. 42
CHAPTER 8 8MEN’S HAIRCUTS – SHORTTo complete the front, use 4clipper-over-finger technique with 5one-finger elevation for softness. 6Then, complete top interior guidein the crown area. Create aninterior guide by creating a vertical90 degree section down the centerof the customer’s head.Widen top interior guide usinghorizontal 90 degree sections upto the crown area.Next, complete the sides usingvertical 90 degree sections.You may start on either side,working the temple area to thecenter back. 43
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®7 For proper blend between top interior and faded area, use an Andis® gray cutting comb with the Andis Cordless Envy™ Li with the blade in the closed position (lever up) then complete with open blade (lever down) for the next rotation. Start in the back and then complete sides.8 Texturize top with the Andis® SlimLine® Pro Li trimmer using the point-cutting technique.9 Remove bulk from beard using the Andis® SlimLine® Pro Li trimmer and #1 attachment comb. Use clipper- over-comb technique on hair above lip to remove bulk. 44
CHAPTER 8 8MEN’S HAIRCUTS – SHORTLine beard, from center to either 10side up to sideburn area with the 11Andis® SlimLine® Pro Li trimmer. 12Use ProFoil™ Lithium Ion Shaverfor an ultra-smooth look and finishbelow the line-up of the beard.Apply styling aids and style thehair using a brush or fingers withthe Andis® Pro Dry™ Elite AC dryer. 45
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®SHORT – Textured Crop using clipper-over-combThis is a variation of a short textured crop. The clipper-over-combtechnique or scissor-over-comb technique can be used for thesides and back. The top is modified to create more weight at thecenter of the top interior for a different look.Section• C hoose the correct length for texture by referring to details discussed during the consultation.• C ut over the fingers with the Andis® Cordless Envy Li using the three-hand technique.• C ut in 3 vertical panels, taking left and right sections to the stationary guide at the center of the top interior. Keep square shape.• Start at the crown and create length in front. 46
CHAPTER 8 8MEN’S HAIRCUTS – SHORTTECHNIQUE #1:Sides and back using clipper-over-comb technique• U se guide around the hairline by inserting comb at the base end of the comb and adjusting to desired length. Start in the center back and work from side to side. Cut from crown to occipital bone using comb and Cordless Envy Li with blade in open position (lever down).• Use selective cornering if and when needed.• Walk around the head; do not build corners at the mastoid process.47
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®TECHNIQUE #2:Sides and back using scissor-over-comb technique• Keep scissors and comb moving in unison.• Start in front to achieve a correct length for the client.• B uild suitable shape and length to suit the customer’s face shape and profile.• A fter setting a correct length, refine by working against the hair growth patterns• Use diagonal comb angles to avoid “steps”.Outlines• Keep soft using pointing or work with clipper-over-comb and or T-blade trimmer. 48
CHAPTER 8 8MEN’S HAIRCUTS – SHORTSHORT – Classic Fade with disconnected topThis variation is for a customer who desires a shorter look withcontrast. It is a classic fade with a disconnected top.Sides and back• U se the Andis® Cordless Envy™ Li clipper with clipper blade in open position (lever down). This will take the length to 1/8 inch length.• Using the Andis® clipper comb horizontally, hold at a 45 degree angle to ensure length gets longer as you work your way up the head.• Comb hair downward as clipper moves upward.• Use technique till you reach 1 cm below the temple.• U se cross hatching technique by using an Andis® clipper; remove bulk in every direction on lower hair until clean.• Remove weight using clipper-over-comb technique with the Andis® gray cutting comb.• Blend line using the Andis® tapering comb.49
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Top• U se the Andis® Cordless Envy™ Li clipper to shear-style cut using the three-hand technique in horizontal sections.• C ut a square line using the pointing technique. Use the Andis® Slimline® Pro Li to create texture and movement.• Leave the top and sides disconnected.• C ut a fringe if desired. Adjust tension when cutting fringe and cut where the hair naturally lays. 50
CHAPTER 8 8MEN’S HAIRCUTS – SHORTSHORT – Classic Skin Fade with hard partThis variation is for one who desires to go shorter than the crop.This is a classic skin fade with hard parting. It works well forcustomer who desires a low-maintenance, modern haircut.Sides and back• Decide whether to use both freehand and clipper technique based on customer consultation.• Sit initial weight line 1 cm below parietal ridge.• Cross hatch to refine and capture hair in every direction for evenness.• Blend the line using the clipper-over-comb technique with an Andis® clipper comb.• Remove the length on top using appropriate clipper attachment.• C reate a strong part with a trimmer such as the Andis® T-Outliner®, if desired.• Line up outlines, starting in the back using an Andis® trimmer to achieve desired result.51
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis® 52
Chapter 9MEN’S HAIRCUTS – MEDIUM
CHAPTER 9 9MEN’S HAIRCUTS – MEDIUM53
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis® Cutting a medium length A medium layer men’s haircut with a side part for a classic, modern look.1 Prepare the hair by wetting it down. Create part in desired position, then take vertical sections from the highest point of the head and separate the sides and back. Note that this cut utilizes a detachable blade clipper for specific steps.2 Begin cutting in the back interior with the Andis® Supra ZR™ cordless clipper with the size 3 ¾ UltraEdge® blade using the c-stroke motion. Repeat the c-stroke motion on each side of the head.3 Repeat the c-stroke motion on each side of the head. 54
CHAPTER 9 9MEN’S HAIRCUTS – MEDIUMNow, create a front guide (bang 4area) to complete the front interior. 5Establish the front interior guide 6at the part line. Take a verticalsection about 1 inch wide and cutat 90 degrees. Complete the sameguide down the center back.Use the front interior guide tocomplete cutting on the topinterior. Take horizontal sectionsover-directing to stationary, interiorguide. Stop taking sections oncereaching the parietal ridge.After interior guides are complete,use vertical pie-shaped sections at90 degree elevation, starting fromthe guide and take the sections toeither side. 55
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®7 Next, complete sides using vertical pie-shaped sections at 90 degrees, starting from the temple area to the back of the head. Repeat the process on the other side.8 To begin fading out the neckline, use a c-stroke motion at the nape using the Envy™ Carbon Fiber clipper with the blade in the closed position (lever up), with a #1 attachment comb.9 Complete the fade using an open blade (lever down) with attachment, graduating down to a closed blade. 56
CHAPTER 9 9MEN’S HAIRCUTS – MEDIUMUse the Andis® T-Outliner® trimmer 10to define the shape of the hairline 11around the ears.Finish up by cleaning the necklineand nape area with the trimmer.57
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®MEDIUM – Low Taper using clipper-over-combA first variation of the low taper was completed with a detachableblade and taper complete with an adjustable blade clipper. Thisvariation describes how it can be achieved with the clipper overcomb technique.Clipper-over-comb• A ngle comb out from the head in an extreme ‘c’ shape top; preserve length as you work your way up.• A nchor the spine of the comb to the head and see the teeth angled towards you.• Do not go above the occipital bone.• This can be done in just back or the back and sides. 58
CHAPTER 9 9MEN’S HAIRCUTS – MEDIUMMEDIUM – Tailored sides & back with disconnected topFor a more disconnected top, here is a variation that displaystailored sides and back.Top• Section off top in large triangle.Clipper-over-comb• Keep Andis® clippers and comb moving in unison.• S tart in the front to achieve correct length for your customer using vertical sections.• B uild a suitable shape and length to suit the customer’s face shape and profile.• A fter setting a correct length, refine by working against the hair growth patterns.• Use diagonal comb angles to avoid “steps” and use an adjustable blade clipper with open blade (lever down) or a detachable blade clipper equipped with a size 1 UltraEdge® blade to create a softer, refined look.59
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Top• Take diagonal sections.• Over-direction the back for an extreme length in the front. Your fingers will be positioned at a 45 degree angle from front to back.• C onnect only to one side for asymmetry. Decide which side the weight is best suited.• Use clipper-over-finger technique to remove length on the top. 60
Chapter 10MEN’S HAIRCUTS – LONG
CHAPTER 10 10MEN’S HAIRCUTS – LONG61
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis® Cutting a long length A long square men’s layer placing corners at the rounds of the head, to create a masculine feel.1 Prepare the hair by wetting it down. Part at desired position then take vertical sections from the highest point of the head and separate the sides and back. Note that this cut utilizes a detachable blade clipper for the majority of cutting.2 Complete back outline using the Andis® Excel Ultra™ with size 000 UltraEdge® blade. Take horizontal sections. Note: Your section width will depend on the customer’s hair density.3 Cut front and side outline using UltraEdge® size 1 blade with the Excel Ultra™ for a softer effect. 62
CHAPTER 10 10MEN’S HAIRCUTS – LONGUse a traveling guide to reveal 4what reference point to use in 5connecting the front to the sides. 6Complete interior guides by usinga 1 inch by 1 inch section at thecrown; connect to front guide.To complete back interior guide,connect top interior guide to theback outline guide.To complete the back interior,complete vertical sections startingat the center back and takingthese sections to the sides at a 90degree elevation. 63
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®7 To indicate how to position horizontal sections for the side interior, compare traveling guide to top interior guide. The traveling guide is the hair above the highest point of the ear.8 To provide you with more control and a better view of the elevation you are creating, position yourself on the opposite side of the section of hair to be cut. Using the clipper-over-finger technique, cut horizontal sections to the stationary guide.9 Use the Andis® SuperLiner™ trimmer to complete point-cutting technique to create texture and movement. 64
CHAPTER 10 10MEN’S HAIRCUTS – LONGTo line-up facial hair, use the 10SuperLiner™ trimmer. If the 11customer desires a short, stubbled 12look, use the SuperLiner™ to dryshave all hair on face.For an ultra-smooth, clean-shavenlook, attach the shaver attachmentto the SuperLiner™ and cleanbelow line-up or dry shaven areas.Apply desired products andstyle using the Andis Pro Dry™Elite AC dryer. 65
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Long – Square Layers with disconnected topFor a variation of the previous haircut that provides more weightand disconnection; has long square layer with a disconnected top.Section• Section off the top in a rectangle. 66
CHAPTER 10 10MEN’S HAIRCUTS – LONGSides and back• Cut a flat square layer over the fingers to create a tall and lean look.• Start at the natural separation between front and back lengths moving towards the front.• Start a new guide in center back. Work to the other side.67
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Top• Cut the top in two parts.• Use a flat, square finger angle.• Connect to the crown using a guide from the back layers.• Over-direct the hair back to a stationary guide at the crown. This will create disconnection between the sides and the top. 68
CHAPTER 10 10MEN’S HAIRCUTS – LONGOutlines and finishing techniques• Use pointing/twisting/slicing with your Andis clippers and trimmers to achieve desired outline.Recommended Andis tools for pointing/twisting/slicing:Andis® Slimline® Pro LiAndis® SuperLiner™Andis® Cordless Envy™ LiAndis® Excel Ultra™ with #1 UltraEdge® blade69
APPENDIXClipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Clipper typesThere are three basic types of clippers, identified by the type ofmotor powering them. Each type has its own unique benefits.You may elect to include several types of clippers in yourtoolbox to compliment the varied needs of your customers.Rotary Motor ClippersRotary motor clippers have high power andmedium blade speed. Their balance betweenpower, speed, size and weight makes themextremely versatile and perfect for high-volume,heavy-duty cutting. In addition, rotary motors cutall types of hair; wet or dry. They are also the onlymotor available with multiple speeds. Examplesinclude the Andis® Supra ZR™ and the BGRv®.Magnetic Motor ClippersMagnetic motor clippers have reliable powerand high blade speed. Because of this highspeed, smooth cuts on dry, light textured hairare best achieved. Less moving parts make thesemotors simple, reliable and the longest lasting ofall the motors. Examples are the Andis® Masterand the Envy™.Pivot Motor ClippersThese clippers have high power & lower bladespeed, which makes them a good choice forstudents or less experienced clipper cutters.While pivot motors have a lower blade speedthan magnetic motors, they are twice as powerfulmaking them ideal for cutting thick, coarsehair. They are also whisper quiet, cool runningand long lasting. Examples include the Andis®Speedmaster II and the Pivot Motor Combo. 70
APPENDIXTool MaintenanceJust as any musical instrument or sports equipment needs propermaintenance to operate at peak performance, the same is true for yourhaircutting tools. A common mistake made by professionals new toclipper cutting is to neglect tool maintenance. Improper maintenancecan lead to dull blades, sluggish performance and ultimately ashutdown of the tool itself. Beyond poor performance, there are alsopotential health risks if tools are not disinfected properly.Basic Cleaning1. T urn off the tool. Clean out loose debris with a blade brush or use Andis DryCare™ with air concentrator to blow hair particles from tight spaces.2. T urn tool on. Use Andis Cool Care Plus® spray to clean and cool the blade. Turn off tool. Wipe off residue.3. Turn on the tool. Apply 5 drops of Andis Blade Oil to the blade: Place 3 drops across the front teeth and 1 drop at each inside rear corner of the blade. Slightly tilt the clipper or trimmer to the side, allowing the oil to run off onto a towel. Run the clipper for approximately 10 seconds. Turn off and wipe off any remaining oil.Tip:• If you continue to notice a decrease in performance after cleaning and oiling, it may be time to replace your blade. 71
APPENDIXClipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Blade Disinfection1. To disinfect either fixed or detachable clipper blades, follow the basic cleaning steps on page 71.2. Next, spray the blade surfaces with Andis Cool Care Plus® until the entire blade is wet. Let sit for 10 minutes.3. Wipe off residue.Andis Cool Care Plus® Spray is an effective germicidal that killsStaphylococcus aureus, Salmonella enterica, Pseudomonasaeruginosa, Streptococcus pyogenes, Mycobacterium bovis(BCG) and Vancomycin Resistant, Enterococcus faecalis (VRE).It also kills viruses and fungi on hard, nonporous inanimatesurfaces.Viruses: Influenza A, Influenza B, Herpes Simplex Type 1 andHerpes Simplex Type 2Fungi: Tricophyton mentagrophytes 72
Get the latest on education from Andis!To receive information about future clipper educationprograms and special offers on Andis products, register at:www.master-barberschool.com today.At Andis, we care about educationas much as you do!Andis offers focused, on-site technical presentations(90 min.) for groups of 20 or more taught by some ofthe industry’s top instructors. Our educational modulesare ideal for your fast-paced work schedules and aredesigned to be versatile to meet the needs of yourorganization. Education modules can be taken one at atime, combined, or taken all together depending on yourneeds. Students and professionals alike will be given theskills and confidence to change their clipper cuttingforever. Want to learn more?Contact Aileen NunezAndis International Education [email protected]
USD $9900With this new book, Clipper Cutting 101: A beginner’s guide tohaircutting with clippers, Andis provides everything you need tolearn the art of cutting and styling with Andis professional clippersand trimmers.From theory and best practices to techniques and tool maintenance,this new program will ensure novice clipper cutters start off right. 1.800.558.9441 www.andis.com ©2016 Andis Company, Sturtevant, WI USA Form #101377 Rev. A
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