CLIPPER CUTTINGA beginner’s guide to haircutting with clippers
Welcome to theAndis Master Barber school!Thank you for reading our new book, Clipper Cutting 101.It is the next step in the evolution of our education programand formalizes what you need to know about cutting hairwith clippers.In fact, we want you – and the world – to learn how toclipper cut! Why? It’s easier than you think and the return toyou as a professional is more than you’d expect!The simple fact is that most people have not been taught, orgiven the opportunity, to learn enough about clipper cuttingto be successful at it. This is where Clipper Cutting 101comes in. We are teaching you the basics, because withoutthe basics you will struggle. Andis is here to help you learn,succeed and grow your legacy!Matthew K. AndisPresident 1
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Table ofcontentsCh. 1 Principles & Theory ............................................3 Head Shape & StructureCh. 2 Best Practices ......................................................9 Consultation Preparation SectioningCh. 3 Cutting 101.........................................................17 Understanding Cutting Tools Cutting TechniquesCh. 4 Shapes ................................................................ 27Ch. 5 Over-Direction, Elevation & Tension ............. 31Ch. 6 Freehand ............................................................ 35Ch. 7 Disconnection ....................................................39Ch. 8 Men’s Haircuts – Short .....................................41Ch. 9 Men’s Haircuts – Medium ................................53Ch. 10 Men’s Haircuts – Long ...................................... 61 Appendix (clipper types & maintenance)......................70 2
Chapter 1PRINCIPLES & THEORY
CHAPTER 1 1PRINCIPLES & THEORYHEAD SHAPE & STRUCTUREUnderstanding the shape of the head and its bone structureare key to executing a great cut. After all, you are the artist andthe head is your canvas. In every consultation, you must checkyour customer’s bone structure so that you can make the correctdecision regarding what technique and shape you should use.First, the head consists of three areas:TOPSIDESBACKTHE TOPThe Top exists from the parietal ridge on each side to the crownat the back. You can find the Top of the head by sectioning thehair at the parietal ridge and continuing all the way around thehead. The hair located above this horseshoe section is the Top.The highest point of the Top is called the apex.3
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®THE PARIETAL RIDGEThe parietal ridge is the widest area of the head and is alsocommonly referred to as the “crest area.” A great way to find theparietal ridge is to lay your comb on the top of the head and roll itdown into the sides. Where you get that balance point is consideredthe parietal ridge. Note that the size of the parietal ridge will helpdetermine a style’s suitability for the customer’s face. Parietal Ridge Crown 4
CHAPTER 1 1PRINCIPLES & THEORYTHE SIDESSides are simple to understand. This is the area around thetemple running to the back edge of the ear. It is sometimesreferred to as the mastoid process. The shape of this area isbased on the underlying bone structure and will determine theshape of the haircut.Temple5
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®THE BACK NapeThe Back is the area located between thesides (mastoid process) and below the crown.Located at the bottom of the Back is the areawhere the hairline terminates called the nape.When cutting the nape area, you should takeinto consideration the customer’s neck length.In general, people with long necks shouldwear styles with longer lengths at the back tominimize focus on this area. On the other hand,people with short necks should wear styles withshort hair length to give the appearance of alonger neck. Make sure to discuss the optionswith your customer.Tips:• A male skull/bone structure is generally more prominent than a woman’s.• Always examine the bone structure to feel the mastoid process/occipital bone and parietal ridge to see what areas are prominent beneath the hair.• Check for scars and always ask your customer if they mind showing them, especially when requesting short styles.• W hen cutting short lengths, remember flaws in bone structure or other blemishes in the scalp will show – check everything thoroughly. Note that lighter or gray-colored hair also reveals the scalp more than dark-colored hair. So you need to be mindful of this when suggesting appropriate styles and cutting these hair types.6
CHAPTER 1 1PRINCIPLES & THEORYTHE OCCIPITAL BONEThe occipital bone is found on the back of the head. It is the largebone jutting out at the base of the head above the nape. It effectshow the customer’s profile will look and will also have a big effect onwhat technique you decide to use.When working on very short men’s hair, always be very aware of thelength over the occipital bone. For example, you would not wantto cut a high fade or taper on someone with a prominent occipitalbone. Instead, you should choose a low fade or taper to keep thehair longer in that area. Occipital Bone7
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Chapter 2BEST PRACTICES
CHAPTER 2 2BEST PRACTICESConsultationThis is when we decide what technique and shape we are goingto use, and overall, what look we are going to give our customer.During the consultation you will need to make quick decisions, sotrust your instincts, have opinions and show your enthusiasm! Thisis the time to WOW your customer.Male customers often look for direction from their stylist orbarber. Always offer small and subtle changes every time, to keepyour customer interested. The changes don’t always have to bewithin the haircut; it can be with facial hair or products, too.1. Ask open-ended questionsAsk questions that do not have a YES or NO answer. We needinformation from our customers to help us understand them.Examples would be:• W hen did you last cut your hair? (indicates what kind of attitude they have towards their hair)• How do you style your hair? Amount of time spent?• What do you NOT like about your hair?• What DO you like about your hair? (finish on the positive)To confirm you’ve understood your customer correctly, askclose-ended questions to confirm. 9
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®2. LISTENMake the customer feel you are listening and care about theirconcerns; try to block out any noise or commotion around you andtruly listen. Ask questions to show that you understand and try notto interrupt.3. DETERMINE HAIR CHARACTERISTICS & LENGTHThe style and cutting tools used on a customer will largely bedetermined by the hair characteristics and desired length.Traits: straight, wavy, curly and tightly curledDiameter: fine, medium and coarseDensity: thin, average and thickLengths: short, medium and longFind out what kind of length they would like to keep. This canhelp you create the appropriate look for them. However, you don’thave to agree to the style if you feel it will not suit them. It is ok todisagree in a tactful and polite manner – if you have a good reasonfor it. Customers enjoy hearing your professional opinion, but theymay not always agree with you. 10
CHAPTER 2 2BEST PRACTICES4. PROFILECheck the customer’s profile, particularly:The Nose – how prominent?The Chin – how long or short?The Jawline – strong or weak?These facial characteristics will help you to decide what shape andtechnique is correct for your customer. Straight ConcaveMost versatile and will work Minimize bulge at forehead by with most hairstyles. designing hair to fall over this area. Convex AngularFor a short, receding forehead, Add front hair and a shorthave front hair cover this area. beard to minimize chin. 11
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®5. HAIR GROWTH PATTERNYou must check the crown, nape and hairlines for hair growthpatterns. This is particularly important when working on veryshort cuts; the growth pattern and any inconsistencies, such as acowlick or whorl, have a significant impact on the selection andadaptability of the style.Cowlick Whorl6. BODY PROPORTIONSLook at how tall or short the customer is. Imagine you are taking aphotograph and look at what hairstyle or length would balance thebody best. As a general rule, male customers with wider shoulders,stronger jawlines and wider necks will look better in a shorter cut,while male customers with narrow shoulders, and softer jawlines ornarrow necks will look better in a longer style. 12
CHAPTER 2 2BEST PRACTICES7. STYLE AND PERSONALITYTry and get a feel for your customer; what type of image andpersonality does he have? Always ask about his job and lifestyle.Does he need a corporate, professional look for work? Or, is hiswork environment more casual? Do personal hobbies, such assports, require a low-maintenance cut? Recommendation AThis is when you share your idea with the customer regarding hairstyle options.Go For It! It’s ok to suggest a change and share an idea that maybe different than what they are used to. Not every customer willsay yes of course, but it is good to plant a seed in his mind for thefuture. Try and develop thick skin; it’s ok for customers to tell youno. Maybe compromise a little and see how far you progress.The most important thing is to give your professionalrecommendation, as they will appreciate hearing your opinion if itis done with grace and not in a pushy manner.Recommendation BWhether or not your customer has taken your suggestion for a newlook, or prefers to maintain their current style, decide how andwhere you will begin your cut based on the shape and techniqueyou have chosen. Sometimes a collaboration and compromise witha customer can lead to good results.Tips:• A bove all, show your passion and have an opinion.• T ry to avoid asking the customer to guide you. YOU are the professional and you should inspire your customers to make changes. 13
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®PreparationBased on the customer consultation, prepare the hair for thedesired haircut.• D ecide if hair would be best cut wet or dry based on the hair characteristics or the customer’s preference.• C omb the hair where it naturally falls to identify growth patterns. Follow the stream of hair to identify any spots that could be difficult to cut.• F or curly or extremely curly hair, use a brush or pick to lift the hair from the scalp prior to cutting.• Section hair from the highest point of the head to the top of the ear – this is the natural separation from front to back. 14
CHAPTER 2 2BEST PRACTICESSectioning• S ectioning is a technique that allows you to plan and execute your haircut.• Sectioning is like a roadmap to get you from A to Z.• Sections should mirror the cutting line.VERTICAL sections HORIZONTAL sections keep remove weight weight – used most with layersDIAGONAL sections push hair in the direction of the section – used most with graduation. 15
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CHAPTER 3 3CUTTING 101Understanding CUTTING TOOLSCLIPPERS & TRIMMERSElectric clippers and trimmers are the preferred cutting toolsused in men’s grooming to achieve a variety of styles. There aremany choices in clippers available to you, each offering uniquecharacteristics. It is important to understand these featuresbefore making your purchase. Motor type, weight, balance,shape, speed, corded versus cordless – all come into play andshould be determined based on the type and volume of haircutting you do. In general, clippers are used for fading, shaving,blending, texturizing and layering, while trimmers are used fordetailed work such as lining, shaving, texturizing and cleanup.Benefits of Clippers & TrimmersThe use of electric clippers and trimmers help professionalsachieve shorter hair lengths quickly and consistently. Byadjusting the blade and using attachment combs, a wide rangeof lengths can be achieved. Clippers are especially suitable forcreating tight fades that are almost impossible to realize with ashear or scissors. 17
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®SCISSORS/SHEARSDid you know that there is a difference between scissors and shears?For a cutting implement to be called “scissors,” the length of the blademust be less than six inches. To be considered “shears,” the length ofthe blade must be longer than six inches. The benefits of using scissors/shears is that it offers an efficient way to achieve a softer effect tailoredfor your customer. There are a variety of tools available from standard tovarious texturizing scissors/shears. Weight, size and comfort are featuresto look for. It is important for you to find the right shape and size andwhen using the tool, to hold it properly, as improper use could haveadverse health effects on your hands and wrists over time.Benefits of Scissors/ShearsEach of these manual tools offers an efficient way to achieve a softereffect. The slower cutting process provides greater opportunity andcontrol for free-form and sculpting techniques. Both are great forlayering, shear-over-comb and various texturizing techniques.Straight razors & electric shaversUsed primarily for facial grooming and cleanup, straight razors andelectric shavers provide the closest, smoothest edges and trims.In most states, a professional must be licensed to use a straight razor –the designation ‘Barber’ is afforded to only those who have achievedthis license. A cosmetologist does not have this license and is thereforeprohibited from using this tool. Please check with your state board.However, a good alternative for a cosmetologist wanting an ultra-smooth,clean finish is to use an electric foil shaver, such as the Andis ProFoil™Lithium shaver, after using an Andis trimmer such as the T-Outliner®.Tip:• A T-blade trimmer, such as the T-Outliner®, can have its blades adjusted to cut nearly as close as a straight razor. This is called “zero-gapping” the blade. 18
Chapter 3CUTTING 101
CHAPTER 3 3CUTTING 101CUTTING TECHNIQUESThere are four primary techniques used in cutting hair. Thesecan be achieved with clippers or scissors/shears:LINESGRADUATIONLAYERSDIRECTIONALThese techniques are the foundations of cutting hair and whenunderstood, practiced and mastered, will allow you to becomea great hair stylist or barber.Cutting occurs on vertical and horizontal planes around thehead and is measured by elevation. This is the angle at whichthe hair is “elevated” or held from the head when cutting. Forexample, holding a section of hair straight out from where itgrows would be a 90 degree elevation, regardless of whetheryou were cutting the top or side section of the head.Cutting technique is determined by the:• FINAL LOOK you want to create• SUITABILITY for the customer• OCCIPITAL BONE prominence (or lack of)• PROFILE 19
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Color keyMajor sections / partingsCutting sectionsCutting line / expanded formOver-directionNo over-directionLine• A Line is where all of the hair sections are brought to the same point to be cut.• In men’s work, a line can be used to define the outline. 20
CHAPTER 3 3CUTTING 101GRADUATION• Graduation is a build-up of weight.• Graduation can be used to give a customer a better profile.• Graduation can be used to build recessed areas of the bone structure and the face shape.• G raduation can sit lower or higher on the head, depending on these factors: - Visual style wanted - Density and texture of hair - Occipital bone and face shape - ProfileClipper-over-comb and scissor-over-comb is also graduation,but is shorter than finger length. When creating a lower,heavier graduation you will often see a weight line. On highergraduation the line will not be evident. 21
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®LAYERING• Layering is a way to remove weight.• Layering can produce movement and texture.• Layering happens when you pull the hair straight out from the head and higher.• In men’s work, layering can remove bulk in long, medium or short hair.Different effects can be created depending on what fingerangle is used. 22
CHAPTER 3 3CUTTING 101CLIPPER-OVER-COMBWhen using the clipper-over-comb technique, the heel of theclipper blade should be connecting with the teeth of the combmaking a distinct sound as you cut.When using a larger clipper comb, use the whole blade front(toe) of the clipper to cut the hair, whereas when using smallercutting and barbering combs, use the bottom half or third of theclipper blade to cut the hair. This way, you do not accidentallycut any hair outside of the comb.SCISSOR-OVER-COMBThere are several keys for success when using the scissor-over-comb technique. By beginning at the bottom hairline andworking up the head to the parietal ridge, it allows you to buildweight in a suitable area for the customer’s bone structure andface shape.For best results, hold your comb parallel to the hairline, andhold your scissors parallel to the comb. Your comb and scissorsshould move up the head together in a fluid motion with theblade of the scissor moving twice as fast as the comb. Thisensures that you do not cut steps in the hair.Clipper-over-comb Clipper-over-finger 23
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®CLIPPER-OVER-FINGER (SHEAR-STYLE)Electric clippers can also be used to cut hair over fingers, justas you do with manual scissors/shears. Yes, you are using yourclipper to do what you normally would complete with yourshears – without the risk of cutting your fingers. This is achievedby holding your clipper and clipper comb in one hand and usethe other hand to control sections. At Andis, we refer to this asthe “three-hand technique.”Steps to ensure proper grip for this technique:• Hold clipper with an over-hand grip.• With the same hand, release middle finger and hold the back of the comb.• T ransfer comb back and forth between hands when sectioning and cutting sections.CLIPPING WITH ATTACHMENT COMBSUsing Andis® attachment combs extends the range of cutlengths achieved with each blade, adding versatility to yourcutting techniques while providing a consistent cuttinglength for those who have not learned the clipper-over-combtechnique.Attachment combs come in a variety of sizes and cut lengthsthat correspond to a particular number. For example, a #2attachment comb leaves hair ¼” or 6 mm long. 24
CHAPTER 3 3CUTTING 101Some techniques that can be used with attachments:Upward fading: A technique where you start at the base of thehead with the shortest attachment length and work your way upto the parietal ridge switching to longer combs as you go. Forexample: start with the #1 (1/8”) attachment comb and end withthe #3 (3/8”) comb.Downward fading: A technique where you start at the parietalridge with the longest attachment length and work your waydown to the base, switching to shorter combs as you go. Forexample: start with the #3 (3/8”) attachment comb and end withthe #1 (1/8”) comb.DIRECTIONAL CUTTINGCutting against the grain: Using your clipper against the hairgrowth pattern. This clipping technique is best suited for fine tomedium, straight hair.Cutting with the grain: Using your clipper with the hair growthpattern. This is a technique often used with wavy and tightlycurled hair.Cutting across the grain: Cutting perpendicular to the hairgrowth pattern. This is performed in the transitional areas.Cutting whorl areas: Clipping the hair in every direction toachieve an even cut. 25
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Clipping with detachable bladesAnother method of cutting hair with clippers is to use a clipperwith detachable blade design. Detachable blade clippers achievea particular cut length by selecting a specific blade size, such assize 000 or size 2. The blades are made to quickly snap on and off,providing a wide range of versatility to professionals servicing ahigh volume of customers.Detachable blades function much like the snap-on, plasticattachment combs discussed in the previous section. However,there are distinct benefits to using detachable blades, including:added versatility from a greater choice of blade lengths, fewerpasses required to produce the desired result and an overallsmoother finish. 26
Chapter 4SHAPES
CHAPTER 4 4SHAPESBasicsShape is found on the horizontal plane.There are 3 primary style shapes:ROUNDSQUARETRIANGULARRound• The hair is shorter in front becoming longer towards the back.• A round shape is useful if you want to push hair away from the face as the shorter hair will push against the longer hair.• A round shape will expose more of the face and the profile.• A round shape is often used to soften sharper features or a square jawline. 27
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®SquareWhen working on men’s hair, square shapes are used frequentlyto balance the head shape, and to achieve a style in proportionto the customer’s body.• A square shape is even with equal lengths.• A square shape does not follow the natural head shape.• A square shape can build corners at the rounds of the head to achieve a tall, lean look.• C orners can also be built at the parietal ridge to balance the lower face.• A square shape doesn’t have any shorter and longer areas as the lengths are more equal. This means the hair is not pushed either forward or backward and therefore falls straight down. 28
CHAPTER 4 4SHAPESTriangular• A triangular shape is shorter at the back and longer towards the front.• This shape is a good way to cover more of the profile and can help to hide imperfections around the jaw area.Selective corneringMen’s work generally uses more square shapes to create a moremasculine appearance.• Corners are built at the rounds of the head.• Use more corners as the hair gets longer.• Use less corners as the hair becomes shorter.• O n short hair do not build all corners, only place corners where needed. 29
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Chapter 5OVER-DIRECTION, ELEVATION & TENSION
CHAPTER 55OVER-DIRECTION, ELEVATION & TENSIONOver-direction• O ver-direction is when the hair is pulled out of its natural position – either forwards or backwards.• This can create length or weight in a special area.• Over-direction is a technique that provides opportunities for creative interpretation. 31
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Elevation• Elevation dictates what technique you are using.• T he more elevation used, the lighter the appearance of the hair. A line is cut as close to 0° as possible. Graduation is cut between 1°-89°. Lower: Heavier weight line Higher: Lighter weight line Layers are cut at 90° and higher. 32
CHAPTER 55OVER-DIRECTION, ELEVATION & TENSIONTensionTension is the amount of stress placed on the hair when cutting.The amount of tension, or how hard you pull the hair from itsnatural fall, is determined by hair trait and diameter.Normal tension: Straight, fine to medium hairLow tension: Wavy, fine to medium hairLittle/no tension: Tightly curled, coarse hairBe careful to loosen tension in difficult areas – ears, crowns, andhairlines – to avoid cutting the hair too short. 33
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Chapter 6FREEHAND
CHAPTER 6 6FREEHANDFreehand means to cut the hair without tension, using the eye torefine the outlines and visually personalize the final look.This will give the customer a one-off haircut that has been finishedspecially for them. Freehand employs the use of several techniques:SLICINGPOINT CUTTINGTWISTINGSCULPTINGSlicingSlicing is the opening and closing of scissors in a downward motion,cutting from root to ends or mid-lengths to ends.• R emoves weight in a subtle or more obvious way depending on what angle the scissors are at.• Surface Slicing can be used to remove less weight. This is achieved by holding the scissors at or horizontal to the head.• Deep Slicing is used to remove more weight. This is done by holding the scissors vertical to the head.• Scissors should be controlled by the thumb for a smooth slicing effect and needs to be practiced.• S licing is done on dry hair so you can visually see the impact it is having. Wet hair does not show the texture of the hair and when slicing on wet hair, you can often remove too much weight.Tips:• Do not drag the hair when slicing; use scissor control to open and close the scissors, but never fully close.• U se minimal tension and carve a “C” at the center of the section. 35
Clipper Cutting 101 by Andis®Point cuttingPoint cutting is the process of snipping the ends of the hair bypositioning the electric clipper or scissors/shears vertically alongthe ends. Point cutting is used to soften the ends of the hair,which can create more movement.• Point cutting can be used for visual blending purposes. For example, to blend problem color areas and also in thick, dense hair.• P oint cutting should not be used to cover mistakes.The benefit of using electric clippers to point cut the hair is thatit is highly unlikely you will cut your fingers. This will increaseyour confidence with this technique.Tips:• P oint tool into the hair vertically. Ensure your scissors or clippers are positioned at the same angle for each cut to create consistency. Use the same sections as the original haircut.• F or a more dramatic appearance, leave more hair out from fingers, then point cut for a softer, shattered look. 36
CHAPTER 6 6FREEHANDTwistingTwisting is performed by twisting small sections of the hair withthe finger and opening and closing the scissors in the root area.• This will create an edgy effect and when used at the root, can give more texture and support, making the hair stand up more.• T his approach is good for shorter lengths on both women and men to give a more spiky or textured look.• T wisting and slicing can be used together on wavy or curly hair.• U se sections no more than 1” wide for even tension and control.Tip:• Twist the hair with the curl pattern and slice down the hair shaft to create more “piecey” curls, raw edges, and outlines.Sculpting• S culpting is a process where the stylist picks out the hair and shapes or sculpts the hair into the desired shape. It is typically used on tightly curled hair.• T his technique can be used for specialty cuts such as a flat-top style which requires the hair to be prepared up and out to achieve a square shape. 37
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