E Book 109.

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SUMMER 2018 HXW-1inNaavHiegmataor CONTENTS DESTINATIONS Out Beyond the Holland - in the Goldfields Woodland________________________________ 10 Karara Colour - and re-bushing the bush__________________________________ 112 FEATURES Globatrol Unearthed - cross continental GU__________________________________________22 Quiet, Quiet - meeting Mark Moora_______________________________________ 37 A load of hot air (Part 3) - emission control risks________________________________________ 55 Francis Birtles - Australia’s greatest overlander______________________________ 78 Dirty Diesel - and how it affects your engine’s health_____________________ 125 Power to Burn (Part 2) - installing your battery system_______________________________ 155 Our Big Baby Eva - glamping across OZ_______________________________________ 168 4 Western 4W Driver #109

TESTING Hightech Highlander - Hyundai Santa Feted_______________________________________ 42 The 9100-DT Lightshow______________________________________ 93 REGULARS COLUMNS 6 Happy Dayz 60 97 EdSed 135 What’s New 66 Bindon’s Lore 144 Clewed Up 151 Wildtrax 189 What’s in a Name The Things you See Over the Bonnet 105 Gear to go Camping 137 BITS ‘n’ BOBS Popular Botanics 166 Fishy Business 179 Capture the Moment 191 4th Gen Jimny 64 Beach Bashed 111 Goings On 194 Cooper Pros 184 Subscriptions 196 Advertiser’s Index 198 Silly Snaps 200 Western 4W Driver #109 5

Westate WTF Publishers Pty Ltd There’s a little nag in the back of my mind that’s ACN 009 360 169 acknowledging a growing list of computerised PO Box 510, driving aids in modern vehicles and asking, “ Kalamunda, Where are these advances taking us?” WA 6926 Phone: (08) 9291 8303 Not physically of course, but don’t discount the Email: possibility that not too far into the future your vehicle [email protected] may take you on a pre-determined route to your Editor destination whether you like it or not. I’m talking Nick Underwood about our brain skills in controlling all aspects of our Contributing Writers actions and consequences and how much of those Phil Bianchi skills we’re prepared to hand over to computers. Peter Bindon Ironically the first computers were human calculators Linda Bloffwitch and mainly women, employed to do the hard number John Bormolini crunching for scientists who preferred to stay at the Ben Broeder laudable end of creative thought. Calculators these Amanda Burton days sit on every school kid’s desk and do the number Graham Cahill crunching for them - no need for mental mechanics, Jo Clews just push buttons. GPS is another case in point. In my Neil Dowling trip planning I always use paper maps, Google Earth Ian Elliot and computerised maps to seek out remote tracks and Alex Garner they are an absolute boon. Colin Kerr On the road GPS mapping orients us most Kristina Lemson conveniently but if it fails (or the Yanks turn off Lyn Mitchell selective availability) I’m of the age where I could Ron Moon still get around using my retained navigation skills. Rob Robson Students of orienteering could as well but where Susie Underwood would that leave the masses who have turned their navigational thought processes over to a voice in Advertising the dash? - Somewhere in the suddenly suburban Nick Underwood wilderness without a street directory I’d suggest. Administration The common theme here is the dumbing-down of Marilyn Dawson our cognitive skills in the name of convenience and Typesetting the conveniences just keep multiplying. Once it was discovered computers could control and maintain BENSON our engines in a finely tuned state (a wonderful thing) a whole world of possibilities evolved for ADVERTISING manufacturers to maintain their marketing edge by developing computer-based systems for many more Printing aspects of driving we previously had to think about and enact. So here’s the nag laid bare. Vanguard Press Cover (bottom image) courtesy National Library of Australia. Disclaimer: The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Westate Publishers Pty Ltd or the editors but those of the authors who accept sole responsibility and liability for them. While every care is taken with images & photographs, and all other material submitted, Westate Publishers Pty Ltd accepts no liability for loss or damage. Edition 109 Summer 2018

SEd ed with Nick Underwood At the moment we have driving aids that mean we don’t have to think about: the terrain ahead and where we might get best traction, (TCS Traction Control System) how well we steer, (ESC, LDW Electronic Stability Control, Lane Departure Warning) how fast we’re going and how close we are to the car in front, (ACC Adaptive Cruise Control - though I must confess cruise control is great for avoiding speeding fines and freeing up the right foot to exercise in the footwell ) putting the keys in the ignition (PBS Push Button Start), imminent collision, (FCW Forward Collision Warning)how close we are to another object, (PDW Parking Distance Warning) whether it’s safe to get out of the car, (SEA Safe Exit Assist), who or what’s still in the back seat,(RSOA Rear Seat Occupant Alert) even now, how to reverse park, (ASP Advanced Smart Parking where the vehicle steers itself into a parking space). Where will it all end? - Driverless cars of course. (AUTO Automated Unpalatable Technical Override) Now don’t get me wrong. Like airbags, most if not all of these systems will save lives, but also like airbags they can fail. And that can mean you’re unknowingly driving without that safety feature(and have possibly forgotten how to deal with it manually as well). And that is the downside. If the responsibility for basic driving techniques is taken out of our hands, like the calculator and the GPS, that knowledge and skill (if one possessed it in the first place) will disappear. Which brings me to another point. The system most important amongst all these and which highlights a more serious issue, is Driver Alert Monitoring (DAM) which watches you for signs of tiredness and vibrates the wheel or sounds an alarm to grab your attention. No wonder you’re nodding off, you’ve got nothing left to do but hold onto the steering wheel! Or play with your phone or watch a movie (as we saw a driver doing one night recently). Without all these considerations and actions that contribute to you being fully involved in the process of driving and therefore more alert to your environment, sure, you’re going to be more relaxed, easily distracted and more likely to nod off. I do get it that there are many people who are not confident driving (or navigating or calculating) and probably not that turned on by being behind the wheel, but does that absolve them of the responsibility to learn? In my opinion it doesn’t. We succumb to the dumbing-down by others at our peril. Can we afford to be a parroter of acronyms? - themselves a dumbing-down where the original meaning of some are already lost to most drivers. (Who remembers what ABS or USB stands for?) Stay in control and if fatigue starts to creep in, recognise it, turn on the radio, sing, play ‘I spy’ or ‘Spotto’ (or ‘What’s that acronym’); change drivers or pull over for a nap or a walk around. And if you happen to be at the wheel of a vehicle with more assists than a game of basketball, there’s only one acronym worthy of consideration - RVTD - Return Vehicle To Driver. Western 4W Driver #109 7

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OUT BEYOND THE Our Queens Birthday Goldfields trip started much more auspiciously than the 2017 trip, which began in the rain, had rain in the middle and a little more rain at the end. This time the skies over Brookton were blue, the sun was shining and the birds were busy doing what birds do in the spring time. That’s me on the nod at Honman Ridge. The boccé was too much excitement. 10 Western 4W Driver #109

HOLLAND By Susie Underwood Western 4W Driver #109 11

e had a mixed crew with us two wives - the Bigamist) looming over this time, some frequent fliers the rock. The photographers amongst and some newbies just to mix us were up early trying to get that elusive arty “sunrise through the mist” Wit up. As always we took the shot. Funnily enough as the morning wore on the fog got thicker before highway out to Hyden with lunch at the suddenly dispersing to another glorious delightful Hyden bakery, before hitting sunny day. We tootled off to Cave Hill, the Hyden-Norseman Road, which with a quick stop on the way to make although a lovely gravel road in great friends with a Thorny Devil who was condition does get a little boooooring sunning himself on the track. I’m sure after a while. We broke up the tedium he had an interesting story to tell his with a quick detour to McDermid Rock, friends when we finally set him back one of the many granite outcrops in in the bush. Did you know that Thorny this neck of the woods, some garlanded Devils drink through their skin? If you with rock walls to collect rain for the put one in a shallow dish of water you thirsty steam trains that were used can see the water wicking up its to cart wood back in the gold rush body. Fascinating to watch but I days. From there it was a left turn onto think our friend was a bit over us Victoria Rock Road and then onto tracks by the time we put him down. for our first night’s camp short of Cave Hill. We found a lovely little camp site We lunched at Cave Hill, a rather nestled against a small rock and settled large monolith with (wait for it) in for the world famous Campfire a correspondingly large cave at Escapes garlic prawns, little boys and its base. In its heyday Cave Hill home-made bread, followed by an was an important refuelling and evening nattering around the fire. The watering point for wood train next morning was a tad gloomy with traffic. There are several dams a very photogenic fog (the Italian with Views to the horizon from McDermid Rock.

on the hill and a camp ground if you Ring tailed choose to stay and explore. There dragon. are expansive views from the top of Cave Hill and it is quite an easy climb to the summit, however the climb is a ridge too far for moi at the minute because I have Knees. From Cave Hill our next stop was Sunday Soak, most notable for being neither wet nor Sunday. There were also a few asses there fooling about, so we beetled off to our final destination, a campsite on the shores of Lake Dundas (via Norseman). As it was the weekend before Grand Final Day (go Dockers) we were all listening to the Eagles v We were mistified on the first morning. Vermin on the hoof. headed towards their glorious Grand Final Victory. Fortuitously Melbourne as we were driving along. the game wrapped up as we What a great game! As the experts say, arrived in Norseman, just in time “A tight game’s a good game”, and even for a celebratory ice cream and though I’m not an Eagles supporter you bucket of chips before setting off couldn’t help but cheer them on as they to our camp. The salt lakes in the towelled up the hapless Demons and Western Woodlands are so photogenic and the drive down the small hill, over the little causeway and along the lake shore particularly so, especially in the golden afternoon light. We were even treated to a family of kangaroos Western 4W Driver #109 13

A well formed track threads across the salt bush plain. hopping across the track in red hair under a tartan cap. The flies front of us. Lake Dundas were particularly friendly that evening stretches a length of 50 km so we were all quite glad to see the and is 15 km at its widest. sun sink into the lake and light the fire. The Telegraph Track, which Next morning it was back over the was the route east up until little causeway and up the small hill on the late 1920s, crosses the our way to the Norseman-Lake King lake’s northern edge. There Road and Peak Charles. I have to say is a mine of information here that one of our friendly escapees about this region written by who shall remain nameless (Deb) had the inestimable Ian Elliot in 4WD Days in the Goldfields if you happen to have a copy handy. If not, check it out on the subscription page near the back of the mag. At camp it was a quick set up and out with the golf clubs for the annual Campfire Escapes Sitting Duck Golf Day. Plugga is usually the honorary Sitting Duck who we try to belt our golf balls at, but this year we had to make do with JB and his shock of fake Climbing up from the top end of Lake Dundas. 14 Western 4W Driver #109

METAL DETECTORS

”... We were all quite glad to see the sun sink into the lake and light the fire.” not had much experience in the 4WD landmark. The views along the department, but drove across the little Norseman-Lake King Road towards causeway and up the small hill with Peaks Charles and Eleanora are truly much aplomb (and just a bit stunning. We don’t have very much of swearing). in the way of majestic eminences in Lunch time saw us at Peak Charles, WA and I think we should celebrate another unsung Western Australian them a little more than we do. From Twin Peaks we were destined for our next camp at Honman Ridge. The last time I ventured out this way there was a little salt lake to navigate which was under water and slippery as a black satin-sheeted water bed to navigate. This time, much to everyone’s relief, the lake was dry and the track to Honman Ridge which on previous occasions had been pot holed and undercut was a surprisingly easy drive. A short distance up gives panoramic views to the south east. Peak Charles revealed its true majesty as we drew closer.

Even though it didn’t get the blood steering yourself into a rabbit hole. pumping, it was rather nice to be able Honman Ridge has extensive views to appreciate the stunning salmon out over Lake Johnston and is a truly, gums with the understorey of blue truly beautiful spot. Also much less bush as we ambled our way through burdensome in the fly department without having to worry about than Lake Dundas. Again it was a Western 4W Driver #109 17

A delightful campsite at Honman Ridge...... quick set up of camp before some of Bocce Championships. This time we us donned outrageous shorts for the had quite the multicultural crowd, universe-famous Campfire Escapes with Nadja (she’s German), Charles ... and the views are to die for.

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TahhnuemaSffahrnoonrttatsstto-e. and Robert (out of Africa) and Deb and A great vantage point looking across Allan (Forrestfield). Well, much hilarity Lake Hope. ensued before The Shorts (an affront to human taste and decency) won the was the lookout perched between Lakes Campfire Cup to much loud cheering. It Johnston and Hope, shaded by one was an early night for some after all that of the most stunning gum trees I have frivolity and up early the next morning ever seen. Sadly, it was back to reality to catch yet another perfect sunrise over after this far too short tour through the the lake. Our final stop on the track Western Woodlands, truly a remarkable area in WA and one well worth a visit. Excerpt from Hema’s WA State map. Western 4W Driver #109 21

GLOBATROL UNEARTHED Meet Justin and Jen, two intrepid West Australian adventurers who have recently returned from an epic three year journey that has taken them to forty- five countries and seen their Nissan Patrol clock up more than 106,000km. 22 Western 4W Driver #109

Off-Road RRwitoohbbson Western 4W Driver #109 23

reckon Justin has 4w driving in his A tight squeeze and off to Vladivostok. DNA probably inherited from his Dad, Barry who in Justin’s younger people in their own rights and with their combined input have built an Idays would load the family into their extraordinary vehicle that is innovative and functional on a platform that is FJ40 and take them off to explore out simple, strong and reliable. of the way places such Wedge Island, Having been around 4wd vehicles all his Yeagerup Dunes and the Warren River life Justin knew that a basically standard which in those days, were indeed out vehicle is going to provide the reliability of the way. The years of travelling with needed for an adventure of this scale, his family forged a love of 4wd touring which has taken him to some of the hence the Patrol’s most remote corners of Australia and drive line and engine in particular Western Australia. Since remained pretty well teaming up with Jen, they have been stock apart from a able to share their passion for travel turbo and exhaust (and each other) and together have upgrade. King Springs broadened each other’s horizons for provided a small lift the path less travelled. with OME shocks and Their thoughts of an overland odyssey steering dampener began back in 2003 when the idea replacing the original of putting a purpose built vehicle in units. Although the a container and taking it to far off temptation to go to countries for an extended period a bigger tyre was surfaced but it wasn’t until 2011 that on the cards, Justin their plans really started to take shape. They bought a 2006 TD42 GU coil cab Good lighting was a Patrol and set about getting it ready for consideration when their epic adventure. heading to un- Both Justin and Jen are very clever developed countries. Extra light bar sits 24 Western 4W Driver #109 behind cover at front of camper.

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decided to stay with 265/75/ Crafty use of in-dash space to secrete R16 as it was imperative the laptop. that the vehicle would fit in a standard sized container with a Samsung tablet loaded with with the camper on the back. Oziexplorer software. In addition Justin As it was they had to let the has removed the dash fascia in front of tyres down to get the Patrol the passenger seat to access the void under the lip of the doors of behind it (airbags take up this space in the container then reinflate later Patrols). He has managed to fit a them for the journey to mini laptop computer (also loaded with Vladivostok. An ARB bull bar sits up front incorporating a 9000lb Warn electric winch. Lights from Narva including a pair of Extreme HID driving lights and daytime running lights are mounted on the bar, plus a 40” LED light bar is recessed into to the front of the camper’s nose cone while a + 50% headlight upgrade kit improves standard high and low beam. Safari Snorkel, diff breathers and dual batteries under the bonnet complement the vehicle fit out. In the cab navigation is taken care of Somewhere on the icy roads of Norway. 26 Western 4W Driver #109

Reflecting travel to colder climates, under the awning is less of a living hub and more for relaxing under shade. Storage locker under tray holds recovery equipment. Plenty of space in the forward locker for bulky gear. Device on left is one of four actuators to raise the roof. Ozi) on a roll-out bracket so the whole thing can be hidden away when not required. How clever is that? But the piece de resistance of this build is the camper. It is a credit to them both; particularly Justin who has managed to incorporate an array of innovative and functional features to make the whole concept quite exceptional. But when you consider that Justin has done all the work himself it makes the result so much more impressive. The camper itself has been built to fit onto the standard aluminium tray and has been tapered in to follow the lines of the tray’s headboard, making the vehicle more manoeuvrable on tight tracks and also improves the centre of gravity. It is worth noting that although the camper is built from aluminium and composite panelling, its steel chassis provides the strength so as not to be reliant on the tray for its mounting and support. The camper extends over the cab to incorporate the full size double bed (we will get to that later). External access to a large sealed storage compartment at tray level is via hatches on both passenger and drivers sides. In addition the full length, wind out, Fiamma Western 4W Driver #109 27

awning on the passenger side provides shade and protection and a small drop down table gives a flat surface to make a sandwich, pour a vodka or even a place to keep wheel nuts out of the dust. Justin has chosen off-the-shelf hatches and table for this job so if they happen to get damaged they can be replaced relatively easily. Under the tray there are a couple of storage compartments, one for recovery Solid fold-down stairway also acts as a dust seal for the door. Two spares underneath. Note on RH side above shovel, exhaust and muffler for diesel heater. gear on the passenger side and the the other. Out the back, the steps other for batteries on the driver’s side. swing down to make for easy They have also sewn up a couple of access to the camper and also strong vinyl storage bags (one on each act to seal the door from dust side) that hang off the tray behind the and weather while travelling rear wheels that they use for rubbish and can be securely locked in and levelling ramps. The idea being that place when the couple are away if the bags happen to get clobbered from the vehicle. In addition when the back wheels drop off a big step the tank for the camper’s diesel they won’t be permanently damaged – heater and stove is mounted on what a beaut idea. one side of the steps and the outdoor Two spare wheels and tyres would shower rose resides behind a small have to be considered as an essential hatch on the other. To get the roof up for a trip of this nature and Justin has once the steps are down is as simple as managed to make both fit under the tray opening the door (again an off-the-shelf on a specially made frame one behind caravan unit), reach inside and hold the roof switch which actuates the four rams 28 Western 4W Driver #109 that lift the camper’s roof evenly to its full height in less than fifteen seconds. Apart from the convenience of the electric lift, Justin has opted to use the heavy duty rams to give the roof and walls more rigidity and strength than if he had used, say a scissor style lift or similar. He was concerned that strong

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winds and rough weather that standard Patrol tray especially once the they would surely encounter large double bed is pushed up and out could quite easily wreak havoc of the way – it is amazing. with anything less. A walkway (yes a walkway, albeit only The walls are made of PVC and a couple of steps) divides the area - fitted with windows, flyscreen kitchen on the right complete with sink and curtains. Apart from the and diesel powered stove top and on curtains giving a touch of the left, in the corner a Porta-Potti is privacy they were essential discreetly hidden with a fabric cover when the couple were trying to and sits (pardon the pun) on top of the get some sleep during the long pull out shower base. Yep that’s right, a hours of daylight in parts of the northern hemisphere. With the roof up, it’s just a matter of ducking your head to get through the door and “What greets you is an area that appears far, far bigger than you could expect ... of a standard Patrol tray..” step inside. What greets you is an area that appears far, far bigger than you could expect standing on the back of a Western 4W Driver #109 31

Plenty of ventilation above the kitchen area to let cooking smells out. shower and toilet – this camper has it all. Under the bed there Next, a little further forward, a 60 litre is a large partitioned Engel fridge is topped with a cushion for storage area which is seating. But wait – there’s more, a small easily accessed when swing out table with seating on either the bed is in the side provides a perfect meals area or as up position. a desk to keep the blog up to date. Under the sink and the stove a variety of large and small aluminium drawers store the necessary pots and pans, cutlery and crockery. More storage is available under the seats next to the table. All in all there is no shortage of places to keep whatever is needed for a three year overland adventure; although they both admit that their wealth of travel experience has taught them what they need and what they can do without. COOK DINNER WHILE YOU DRIVE ...IN YOUR TRAVEL BUDDY temcaonpbndeiNtgrrwaogotwielutrhre 12 VOLT OVEN 2cmhooodseelsfrtoom From heating pies to cooking a roast you’ll 32 Western 4W Driver #109 wonder how you managed without your Travel Buddy. PH 03 5441 3388 For your nearest suppliers www.travelbuddy.net.au

The inside finish of the camper is superb Slide-out drawer with shelving is a and an absolute credit to them both. great idea. Water is stored in two poly tanks, 40 Shower with its own collection tank litres between the cab and the head and lift-up curtain is self-contained for board of the tray and 80 litres under the use inside. tray. A Seagull IV water filter cleans out the nasties. Western 4W Driver #109 33 Two 105 amp hour batteries supply power for the camper body and have their own DC to DC charger. Also, three 80 watt solar panels are fitted permanently to the roof to keep the batteries topped up if they are stopped in one place for more than a couple of days. In addition to the diesel cooktop they also have a Webasto Air Top cabin heater which came in very handy when the temperature dropped below freezing in many of the places they travelled to. Justin took care of all wiring and electrics in the camper and also the additional wiring in the vehicle itself (he’s a clever bugger). After countless hours of planning and preparation the Patrol was loaded into a container at the Fremantle Dock in March 2014 for its 22 day transit to Vladivostok in Russia – It arrived unscathed and their journey was underway. From Vladivostok they travelled through Russia, Siberia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, along the Pamir Highway and onto Turkey then into Europe and the UK before putting the Patrol on a ship in Belgium and transporting it to Baltimore on the east coast of the United States for the second stage of their adventure. A fascinating account with a heap of interesting photos of their days on the road through 45 countries can be accessed on the couple’s blog at www.globatrol.com.au but be warned this ain’t no five minute read. You’re probably going to need several days but worth every minute. After 1078 days the Patrol was again loaded into a container this time in San Francisco for its return journey to Fremantle. The Patrol arrived back in excellent condition, in fact not too much

Around the world and just Africa and South America to go. the worse for wear after the 106,000km for Globatrol), broadly odyssey which has to be a testament to speaking it is cheaper to Justin’s skills along with the time and be on the road than it is effort that was spent getting the vehicle to be living at home. She prepared. Not to mention the inherent has maintained meticulous reliability of the TD42 powered Nissan spread sheets for the whole Patrol - the Patrol might be a bit of a journey with a daily costs dinosaur these days but when it figure coming in on average comes to reliability, they are in a class at around $60 - $70 per day. of their own. However they both qualify Getting a vehicle together is just one of that by pointing out that fuel the challenges for anyone contemplating and living costs can vary an overland journey. Being able to afford widely depending on which it is another. country they were travelling According to Jen (chief financial officer in. For example it was much cheaper to Bulgaria. Mongolia. travel in poorer counties where fuel is generally less expensive and there are plenty of places to free camp as opposed to say the UK where fuel is up around $2.45 a litre and free camping is non-existent. So it might cost $30 per day in somewhere like Mongolia but $120 per day in some of the European countries They free camped as much 34 Western 4W Driver #109

Pamir. going to be very hard for them to settle down to the hum-drum of city as they could spending only life for very long especially when 210 days out of the 1078 in paid South America and Africa are still on accommodation – I reckon that’s the to-do list. a feat in itself Notwithstanding, Will the Patrol be good to go again? 1078 days at $70p/day makes Judging by what we have seen doing for a hefty $75,460 and that this story there is no question of that doesn’t include flights, shipping – it is just a matter of when. and maintenance costs - not the Foot Note: Justin gives a sort of money most of us would comprehensive walk around of the have tucked away. Fortunately vehicle on the Video attached to the for Justin and Jen they were Western 4WDriver Emag – grab able to rent both their houses yourself a subscription. which financed their travels. Back in the ‘burbs I reckon it is Sahara Desert. Utah. Western 4W Driver #109 35

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My initial visit to Balgo, located on the north- eastern edge of Western Australia’s vast wilderness, the Great Sandy Desert, has remained with me and each time I revisit this incredible desert landscape, I liken it to visiting an old friend. Familiar sights and sounds, the vastness of the night sky and the sense of isolation are but a few of the reasons I was eager to return. QUIET, QUIET - MEETING MARK MOORA by Smithy Western 4W Driver #109 37

visit to a friend was the primary 70 kms to the West and Billiluna reason behind my latest desert Community, 85kms to the North and the adventure. Mark Moora is a waters at Ngaimangaima, a boundary marker between their northern Abushman, an Aboriginal elder neighbours the Djaru, and the Ngardi to their East (Tindale, 1974). and a story teller, the likes of which Balgo Community became famous I may never meet again. Born in the during the 1980s for its artists and desert and raised bare-foot, before arts centre, Warlayirti Artists, still in white fellas had ventured onto his operation today. Mark Moora has country, Mark is a senior elder in his recently joined forces with the centre now home of Balgo community. and is working toward his vision of an Aboriginal Cultural Tour business. Old Balgo, as it was formerly known, With support from the Parna Ngururrpa was established in 1942, by a party Aboriginal Corporation and the of German Missionaries, who set out local arts centre, it is Mark’s hope from Halls Creek in search of a suitable that establishing a truly unique and site to continue their work. Years of family run business, will benefit his hardship and difficulty surviving in the community and the generations harsh desert landscape prompted a to come. move to Balgo Hills in 1965, with the assistance of the federal government. This new settlement, ‘Balwina native reserve’, was 20 miles East of the prior A now closed community, Yagga Yagga and contained several Aboriginal tribal which translates as ‘Quiet Quiet’, was groups, including Marks’ Gugadja. established in 1985 as a homeland The Gugadja (pronounced ‘Goo-gah- or an outstation for local people who ja’), are a desert tribal group whose wanted to leave the often violent and traditional lands cover roughly 31,000 chaotic communities they had been square kms. Stretching from Balgo living in. Community to Lake Gregory, some Yagga Yagga thrived as a place of 38 Western 4W Driver #109



peace and tranquillity and in The author with Mark Moora. the late 1980s, was officially recognised as ‘a refuge for down from his elders about the those who wanted to escape creation of his country and knowledge the drunkenness and unrest at of the local flora and fauna are being Balgo’, (Cane et al, 1990). told to his grand-children and great Local artists lived and painted grand-children. It is Mark’s hope, that on their country and trips this knowledge will be shared with made to Balgo would result in art sales and a direct source of income for themselves and their community. It is here, that Mark plans to run tours during the dry season months, from May to September on his homelands surrounding Yagga Yagga, as the former community’s infrastructure remains and the access tracks are now well maintained due to mining activity in the region. From Yagga Yagga, tourists will embark on a journey of discovery, adventure and aboriginal culture, first hand, with Mark as their guide. Stories passed - Tailor made to suit your vehicle @solarscreenaustralia - 3 year warranty - Highest quality 9-layer thermal fabric - 100% Australian made & owned - Over 20,000 Satisfied customers ‘Cool in Summer, and Warm in Winter’ learn more at: www.solarscreen.com.au 40 Western 4W Driver #109

There’s a lot more to the bush than meets the eye as Mark is happy to explain. bush, as does Mark and I’m sure the visitors who make the journey into the desert will also. Traditional Aboriginal Culture is alive and well in these parts, however only a few senior elders remain in Balgo and Mark Moora is determined to see his culture thrive by passing on his vast knowledge to the next generation. Cultural Tourism, Mark believes can play a large tourists from all walks of life. role in ensuring the survival I recall the first time I met Mark, I was and appreciation of the world’s oldest introduced by a friend, who was at the surviving culture. Mark understands time managing the Balgo Women’s Law the importance of collaboration and has and Cultural Centre. Mark and I had been working with the local rangers similar interests in tourism and so a and Parks and Wildlife WA, to train the meeting was inevitable. young men and women My first impression “In his own words, in the region about was a genuine cultural practices such feeling of respect “we come here to be as burning country and admiration, as still, get away from all and habitat protection, Mark is a senior among others. elder and has the the noise in town”. Various meetings long grey beard to with interested parties prove it. This was a man and on country trips of great knowledge I thought and our facilitate the learning and knowledge interactions and countless yarns since sharing between generations. have only strengthened my belief. Telling stories around the campfire, Listening to Mark’s stories over a hunting and gathering are the most cuppa, under the shade of a mulga common methods used to pass on tree, I am in awe of this man’s love such knowledge. Very little is written of his culture and his country. In his or recorded, however Mark has been own words, ‘We come here to be still, interviewed a number of times over the get away from all the noise in town’. years and video recordings are proving I certainly appreciate the quiet of the to be effective educational tools. Western 4W Driver #109 41

It wasn’t too long ago that it was easy to dismiss vehicles coming out of Korea as lacking quality and refinement – boy-oh-boy how things have changed. Santa Fe was quite comfortable on beach tracks but higher profile tyres would certainly raise its game. 42 Western 4W Driver #109

Off-Road RwRitoohbbson HIGHTECH HIGHLANDER Western 4W Driver #109 43

can remember in the early days at There is no denying however, that the Robson Brothers having a couple quality of vehicles manufactured and of Hyundai Excels as courtesy cars distributed out of Japan today are up there with the best of them. I believe Iand they weren’t too flash to say the Korean manufacturers are following suit. least. Although at the time they proved In recent years Hyundai have shown their worth making it so much more that they can produce vehicles that are convenient, albeit a tad basic for our on a par with many of the world’s best customers to get around in while their - this 4th Generation Hyundai Santa pride and joy was being serviced. Fe is a case in point and after a few Hyundai vehicles have come a long days of punting the top-of-the-range way since those early days. Highlander around town and down It is not such a long bow to draw to south I was reluctant to give it back. For make a comparison between the Western 4W Driver the Santa Fe is a bit Japanese car manufacturing experience of a departure from what we usually and what has happened in Korea over the past fifteen years or so. Those of review in these pages. It’s not going to take you to the most remote parts of the country or, for that matter even up a rutted 4wd track. In fact gravel roads, sandy tracks or a bit of beach work is all that I would suggest it should be asked to Santa Fe’s stylish interior hides a cornucopia of safety features and driving aids to keep you on track on road. us who are old enough can probably remember the term Jap Crap ( not particularly politically correct today but hey, that’s the way it was way back then) In those days cars coming out of Japan were, by and large treated with the same contempt as those that came out of Korea not so long ago. 44 Western 4W Driver #109

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Santa Fe Product Guide. A few years ago I would have said that a lot of this stuff is just gimmickry but now I’ve got to admit that for the most part they make for a better driving experience and of course a far safer vehicle to transport you, your passengers and the family. A couple of the features that I really liked were the adaptive cruise control SCCw/S&G (Smart Cruise Control with Stop and Go) – talk about an acronym! It is becoming quite common place on many modern vehicles and in my view, really enhances the benefits of using cruise control. I also liked the blind spot warnings on the mirrors and the audible alert if you indicate to change lanes when there is a vehicle in the Full length roof-with-a-view. A more realistic speed range would make the speedo easier to read. Not do – it is definitely a soft roader. shown here but what we liked But what it lacks in off road prowess was the on-screen overhead view of the it sure makes up for in high tech vehicle, made possible by its army comfort and functionality. The Santa of cameras. Fe Highlander is one high tech SUV and if acronyms float your boat then blind spot. The LDW (Lane Departure this vehicle is going to put you in Warning) keeps you on your toes if you seventh heaven. I’m sure most would happen to let the vehicle wander across be familiar with ABS, EGR and VSC the lane for whatever reason. Not but what about FCA (Forward Collision only does it give an audible warning Assistance), LKA (Lane Keeping Assist), but it will also steer the vehicle back DAW (Driver Attention Warning), BCA into the lane autonomously unless (Blind Spot Collision Assist) and EBD overridden by the driver. In the same (Electronic Brake force Distribution) – vein, if the vehicle continues to drive but wait there’s more. straight on a curve it will autonomously How about SEA (Safe Exit Assist) it warns if there is a vehicle approaching from the rear as a door is opened and then there is ROA (Rear-seat Occupant Alert) lets you know if you have left the baby or a dog in the back seat. But that is only a few of them; I counted more than thirty acronyms as listed in the 46 Western 4W Driver #109

steer the vehicle Rear seat slides forward at the push of back onto the line of a button to allow access to third row the curve. I did find seats or cargo area. that the autonomous Fe Highlander but suffice to say that steering can be a bit Hyundai have most of it covered. disconcerting at first The Santa Fe comes in three models, but it is something I got Active, Elite and Highlander each with used to and I suppose different levels of trim and features. that, in the long term Elite and Highlander use the turbo we will have to all get charged 2.2litre diesel power plant used to it as more and hooked up to an 8 speed automatic more of this type of transmission while the base model, innovation takes hold. Active has the option of a 2.4 litre petrol Being a medium sized combined with a 6 speed automatic as SUV, it can be a bit well as the diesel with the 8 speed auto. of a handful in tight The 2.2 diesel was quite perky shopping centre car when required. parks, innovations like RCCA (Rear Cross Traffic Collision Avoidance Assist), Western 4W Driver #109 47 SVM ( Surround View Monitor) and PDW (Parking Distance Warning) help “If you’re not the greatest at parking in tight spaces the ASPAS ... will do the steering for you.” to take some of the drama away from getting in and out of a car parking spot unscathed. If you’re not the greatest at parking in tight spaces the ASPAS (Advanced Smart Parking Assist System) will do the steering for you - all you have to do is move the gear selector from Reverse to Drive as required. If you have little ones who tend to jump the gun and open doors to get out of the car before they should, the SEA (Safe Exit Assist) prevents the doors being opened if there is a bike or vehicle approaching from the rear. I could go on and on about the myriad safety features in the Santa

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