Ebook 106

106th EDITION Autumn 2018 WA’s own 4WD Magazine Hotham to Red Centre arvey hot Spots - trip noted GQ Prado Re-Built Nip ‘n’ Tuck Power Ploys - upgrading output The Ed’s Cruiser Dusted Credo & Rowles - Goldfields Gems WIN a HEMA Navigator

AT HOME ON THE RANGE - Never Nullarboring INDULGE YOURSELF CAMPERS PHONE 9317 4900 FOR THE KEYS! MRB:3101 DL:19018

T HE N E X T GE N E RAT I ON OF 4X4 ACCESSORIES BULL BARS & ROOF CANOPIES & SUSPENSION CAMPING DRIVING TOWING DRAWERS & PROTECTION RACKS UTE LIDS UPGRADES GEAR LIGHTS STORAGE ARB.COM.AU TEL. 1300 272 494

UH9080 FRONT FACING SPEAKER UHF & Scanner in 1 for optimal audio clarity + Dual Speakers Speaker Mic + Base UHF & Scanner In One# Replay Function iGO CAM 755 UH9050 UH35-3 MHS155 UV FULL HD+ Crash Cam with Speed Contemporary DIN Sized CB Multicoloured Outdoor Adventure, Marine & Land in One Camera Warnings and Lane Guidance VHF & UHF 2-Way Radio Radio with Smart MIC Compact CB Handheld

keeping you connected We have the products for your next adventure Whether you need to keep in contact with friends in the convoy, or simply communicate when you’re outside the vehicle exploring, there’s an ideal Uniden product to keep you connected. Even in the most remote locations without mobile reception. UH850S-DLX Heavy Duty Powerful 5W Waterproof Range: 17km# Operating Time: 39hrs† AS SEEN ON LEADING 4WD & ADVENTURE TV SHOWS BUILT RUGGED FOR AUS & NZ CONDITIONS UNIDEN.COM.AU 1300 366 895

AUTUMN 2018 CONTENTS DESTINATIONS Hotham to Harvey - Trip noted _________________________________________________ 8 Credo & Rowles - Alex Garner discovers a Goldfields Gem____________________ 44 Shutterbuggery - Between the Capes ______________________________________ 102 Red Centre Hot Spots Ron Moon’s go-to list to Go To______________________________ 150 FEATURES Done and Dusted - The Ed’s Cruiser cops a lungful________________________________ 38 GQ Re Re-Built - or What you can build under a patio_________________________ 76 Power Ploys - How to increase power and torque without blowing your stack________________________________________ 120 4 Western 4W Driver #106

TESTING Prado Nip ‘n’ Tuck - A few changes for the Venerable Mid-size__________________ 28 X-Trail Diesel - More Torque and a CVT Drive______________________________ 91 COLUMNS Wildtrax 71 What’s in a name 74 Bindon’s Lore 85 The Things you See 115 Clewed up 147 E-BOOK!Now Go in: REGULARS EdSed 6 to:weFstoerrn4Mwdorivreer.com.au BITS & BOBS What’s New? 59, 117 Popular Botanics 97 WIN! Happy Dayz with Fishy Business 133 Hema 55 Over the Bonnet 139 Godzilla of the Desert 101 Gear to go Camping 169 Bush Microwave 148 Across the Simpson Capture the Moment on Solar 174 with Graham Cahill 187 Fourbies and Greenies 178 Goings On 192 Pik-Up for the Masses 181 Subscriptions 196 The Nullarbor Advertisers Index 198 Nymphology 189 Silly Snaps 200 Western 4W Driver #106 5

Westate Starting From Publishers Pty Ltd It seems rather incongruous that I might ACN 009 360 169 suddenly, after 28 years of camping and 4w PO Box 510, driving, find myself bereft of the necessary Kalamunda, gear to take off for a few days in the bush. WA 6926 Not just camping gear, but a vehicle as well and Phone: (08) 9291 8303 right on Christmas time. What calamity could Email: have befallen me to be in such a situation? For [email protected] those of you who I know, start here on your Editor journey through each edition, I won’t start Nick Underwood crying copiously into my soup over the whys Contributing Writers and wherefores - you’ll find that out soon Phil Bianchi enough. Suffice to say my Cruiser and all gear Peter Bindon was neatly locked in a workshop and I was Linda Bloffwitch starting from scratch - real scratch. First and John Bormolini foremost, I needed a vehicle. Luckily in my job Ben Broeder I have a few friends with 4WDs and none more Amanda Burton so than my good mate Plugga who had a very Graham Cahill tidy 4.2 Patrol spare and just waiting for me to Jo Clews plant my sorry arse into. On the camping side, Ray Cully I was almost back to square one. Minimalist, Neil Dowling but not quite commando. From the back shed Ian Elliot I unearthed a stretcher, chair, esky, billy and a Alex Garner camo mozzie net that hadn’t seen the light of Chris Harwood any day since Adam was a cowboy. Then it was Colin Kerr off to my favourite camping store for more kit - Kristina Lemson self-inflating mattress, single burner stove with Lyn Mitchell plenty of gas canisters for back up and as a treat Ron Moon a new washing bowl, plate and cup. With the Rob Robson balance of necessities commandeered from the Susie Underwood kitchen cupboards, I created a cooking kit within a canvas bag that suited the purpose admirably. Advertising With two 10 litre plastic water containers Nick Underwood jammed in the rear footwell, we were packed up Administration Marilyn Dawson Typesetting BENSON ADVERTISING Printing Vanguard Press Disclaimer: The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Westate Publishers Pty Ltd or the editors but those of the authors who accept sole responsibility and liability for them. While every care is taken with images & photographs, and all other material submitted, Westate Publishers Pty Ltd accepts no liability for loss or damage. Edition 106 Autumn 2018

Scratch SEd ed with Nick Underwood and off like a robber’s dog. On the road, I was very conscious of my new status as a Nissan driver, but felt my anonymity would be assured because there was no signwriting on the vehicle, and nobody could see me anyhow hiding down behind the steering wheel. Oh, all right then, I actually enjoyed tonking along in this iconic 4WD. It felt solid and dependable, unlike a certain Land Cruiser getting its guts ripped out in a Kalamunda workshop, but I digress. The only things I had to get used to were a sensitive accelerator pedal that would get into a bit of a dance routine with my right foot, raising my elbow higher to rest in the open window and peering through the steering wheel like a kid in his dad’s car. At camp, I developed a far greater appreciation for the setup I had fine-tuned over the years and the conveniences we take for granted - like a fridge that doesn’t steadily accumulate water in the bottom for its contents to float around in, or a stove with not one, but two, burners and a gas bottle that lasts longer than two days (although it was nice to push a Piezo that worked). Or having water pumped electrically out of a large tank as opposed to wrecking one’s thumbs to get water piddling out of a plastic container or finally the luxury of a good night’s sleep on a large comfortable bed in a spacious tent space compared with a sleeping space (and I use the term loosely) where turning on the spot frequently to get any sort of comfort results in sleeping bag and mozzie net tightly wound around the ankles and one’s face pressed up against mesh inviting a swarm of biteys to dine upon one’s delicate dermis. But I shouldn’t gripe. My privations pale against those of our forecampers who explored this great country on horse or shanks’ pony, found water where they could and often in desperation, fought to keep flies off food, let alone keep it cool, and slept on a swag next to the fire to wake up next day ready to roam further into uncharted country. That, by modern standards, is doing it tough. Staying in perspective, all we really need is the motivation to keep getting out there and amongst it as often as we can. The means will look after itself. See you in the bush. PS Looking for a free tyre repair kit? - Go to page 99. Western 4W Driver #106 7

HOTHAM TO 187 years (almost to the day) since Tom Bannister stumbled upon its banks we took the opportunity to follow the Hotham from its rising out to the sea or as near as dammit to the Harvey Estuary. 8 Western 4W Driver #106

HARVEY Words by Ian Elliot Pics by Nick Underwood ILsalaznindgPoonolt.he Murray at TRIP NOTED Tracks along the Murray have seen a bit of wet weather action.

or nearly a decade, each Christmas and Wandering Brook; altogether a or New Year, the Ed and I have vast catchment that can transform this made a tradition of tracing a South usually sluggish and sometimes empty waterway into a deep and dangerous FWest river from source to sea. torrent in the rainy season. Now we’re starting to run out of rivers The river was revealed to colonists as and it was only after much deliberation, a result of the first attempt to establish and despite our misgivings that a line of overland communication actual 4WD terrain would be scarce, between the newly established that we came up with the Hotham settlements at Swan River and as a candidate for this year. Nick felt King George Sound. An expedition, we could begin where it rose in the undertaken on foot by Captain Thomas Dutarning Range out eastwards of Bannister (leader), George Smythe Pingelly until I pointed out that this (surveyor), with John Gringer and was the Hotham River North whereas John Galway each leading a packhorse, the main stream of the Hotham departed Fremantle on 14 December commenced just a couple of kilometres 1830 and came upon this river on NE of Narrogin. From there its 160 Christmas Eve. Here they camped for kilometre course trends NE, NW and five days because the horses’ backs N before swinging around to SW, then had been rubbed raw by their loads generally southwards to a spot just W due to the party not being equipped of Mount Saddleback where it joins with proper pack saddles. During this the Williams River to form the Murray pause Bannister and Smythe took the River. Interestingly, the Williams opportunity to walk the surrounding River rises just SW of Narrogin so country and trace the course of the that country centre can be said to be river downstream, then upstream for the source of all three of these well- a few miles. A bearing was taken to known watercourses. The Hotham has a distinctive distant hill they referred fourteen major tributaries including the Crossman and Bannister rivers Very un-amazonian in its upper reaches. Pic: Mr E. 10 Western 4W Driver #106

to as “saddleback” but no name was Some bridges over the Hotham were in put forward for the river. In fact, even better shape than others. Pic: Mr E. though Smythe’s navigation later proved to be almost disastrously WA features after Royal Navy heroes, deficient due to him using the wrong probably after Admiral Sir Henry almanac, Bannister records that Hotham (1877-1833) who distinguished his surveyor thought it must be the himself in the Napoleonic Wars and Murray. In this, of course, he was during what is commonly known as correct. Even Surveyor General Roe the War of 1812 when his squadron is agreed with this assumption during a recorded as capturing and destroying follow up expedition with prospective no less than 82 American ships. Wow! settlers 18 months later, but no name As it turned out, Nick’s lack of a vehicle is shown on maps until 1833. Governor between Christmas and New Year Stirling is thought to have named would lead to my preparing to do both the Williams and Hotham rivers the trip alone. I reasoned that, after amongst others when he visited lunching in Narrogin, I could cross the London in 1832, one apparently after river at seven different spots using a King William IV who had ascended the network of wheatbelt roads on the first throne just a few months before these afternoon before following the northern watercourses were reported, the other, branch out to overnight near its source given Stirling’s penchant for naming at Tutanning Nature Reserve in the Dutarning Range. (“Dutarning” and “Tutanning” are just differing versions of the same Aboriginal name.) The net informed me that a research hut in the reserve (the Percy Marshall Field Study Centre) could be booked at $10 per person/per night through DPAW at Narrogin so I went ahead and booked it. A couple of days before departure Nick rang to say he’d managed to Western 4W Driver #106 11

On country roads there’s always a letterbox to entertain you. borrow a Nissan but couldn’t get away had morning tea in Brookton, explored until after New Years Eve. I revised a few relevant spots along the Great my departure date accordingly and Southern Highway, then lunched at emailed Parks and Wildlife to see if Narrogin and visited the staff at DPAW they could accommodate this change. before beginning our trip notes on The Narrogin staff were unfailingly the Wickepin side of the big Narrogin polite and helpful and, having had roundabout. There was a small surprise some frustrating lack of action by when we found a southern tributary Public Servants since I left their ranks, I crossing the Wickepin road signposted was impressed with their attitude. as the Hotham when our maps showed We left on the third day of the year, the source as further West. It seems that this tributary could be 200 metres longer than the one shown on the maps so this local interpretation could well be correct. After criss- crossing the winding river on well-maintained country roads, we arrived back at the highway near Boyamucking Pool where we gave some thought to trip noting a picturesque picnic spot alongside an old railway dam on the Hotham River South at Yornaning. We’d had a look at Yornaning Dam is a big water body and a top spot for a picnic. 12 Western 4W Driver #106

ULTIMATEFamily Owned Australian Company THE PRIZE GIVEAWAY!Since1958 TO CELEBRATE OUR 60th ANNIVERSARY IRONMAN 4X4 IS GIVING AWAY AN ULTIMATE CAMPER VALUED AT OVER $60K! IRONMAN IRONMAN 4X4 4X4 YEARS YEARS SINCE 1958 Purchase any Ironman 4x4 product to tahnedvfaillluoYeuotEfa$nA1Se,I5NnC0RtE0r1y9So5f8rogrmreaotnelrinbee.tweYenE A R S 1st March 2018 and 31st August 2018 Terms and Conditions can be found at: www.ironman4x4.com Winners will be drawn by chance at 10am, 28th September, at 2-8 Bessemer Drive Dandenong South VIC 3175 and announced on www.ironman4x4.com and contacted by phone by the 5th of October. IRONMAN IRONMAN Permit Numbers: SA Permit No. T18/105, NSW Permit No. LTPS/18/21389, ACT Permit No. ACT TP 18/040X1343 4X4 W4WDFP(1)010218 www.ironman4x4.comY E ARS YEARS SINCE 1958 SINCE 1958 Family Owned Australian Company Since 1958

“With a comfy bed and excellent ventilation, every night’s a great night in our Howling Moon Rooftop” Lee & Mark Now awawvraanipilnaagbr!loeuwndith full • 280 gms/sqm, Polyester/cotton ripstop material. Fluoro carbon coated. • Foam mattress high density. • Made in South Africa where sleeping well above ground level is essential. • Insect protected doors and windows. • Apex air vents. • Internal cotton canvas condensation blanket. • Optional side walls available with zip detachable PVC groundsheet in main tent. Get yours from 61 McCoy Street, Myaree WA 6154 Tel: 08 9317 2344 MRB3101 DL19018

this spot on our way down and found set up camp stretchers and swags on it to be well worth the visit. It has a the verandah with a view out over the few facilities including BBQ pits and valley farmland. a toilet but camping is not allowed. We were travelling with ample However, if you’re looking for an camping gear and really had no need overnight halt close to here, the Laze of the many amenities offered at the Away Holiday Farm and Caravan Park hut so we didn’t bother firing up the is on the highway only a couple of gas fridge or barbecue or running the kilometres North of Boyamucking Pool. generator for lights. Although our day Another spot we incorporated in our had been a hot one, dusk brought trip notes was a circuit over a bridge on a soft breeze sighing through and back around over a ford East of the Sheoaks, and our evening was Popanyinning, a tiny townsite gazetted extraordinarily peaceful and pleasant. in 1904. Earlier in the day we’d met a Next morning, after breakfast, we laid-back local on this bridge who packed up and spent a couple of had provided data on local beauty hours exploring a few of the many spots and the impressive flood levels that can be reached in this region after rains. After an ice cream from the remarkable general store at Popanyinning, we drove back up to Pingelly, then out to Tutanning Nature Reserve following the Hotham River North on the Wickepin Pingelly Road for part of the way. Pulling up at the Tutanning hut we checked out its kitchen , bathroom and two dormitory rooms but agreed it was way too hot to sleep indoors so we Western 4W Driver #106 15

We had a look around the 220 hectare reserve before getting back to the Hotham. management tracks We eventually departed through the throughout the reserve. Sandalwood plantations on Tutanning Most tracks were in Road returning South from Pingelly to excellent condition and rejoin our trip notes at Zig Zag Road. pose no difficulties to The interesting ruins of rotting 4WDs at this time of year. timber bridges still stand beside their We startled numerous replacements at many of the river groups of large ‘roos crossings we visited. One such was but were disappointed not to catch a glimpse of smaller mammals such as Woylies and Numbats, both of which are said to inhabit the reserve. It was refreshing to observe the lack of rubbish but disappointing to read of 4w-drivers heedlessly crushing lizard habitat by driving over granite outcrops, thereby in one particular area, ending two decades of continuous scientific study. IT STARTED WITH A WHEEL ar tt 912 ar vn501 fuel coupler atx blade xd rockstar2 COMPETITION PERFORMANCE TYRE MUSCLE CARS / CLASSIC CARS / HOTRODS OFFROAD / 4WD 58 King Edward Rd Osborne Park WA Mon-Fri: 7.30-5.00 Sat: 7.30-midday e: [email protected] www.associatedtyreandwheel.com.au ALL BRANDS TYRES & WHEELS NEW & SECONDHAND 4WD & TRUCK TYRES EFTPOS-LAYBY-TRADE IN 16 Western 4W Driver #106

Napping Bridge just down from the ford exhibits a quaint footbridge former site of the old Woodlands Hall. presumably meant to preserve We chose Pumphreys Bridge as an dry feet in times of flood. Further ideal lunch spot, and here too the ruins downstream our road gave brief access of the old bridge, one that replaced a to Dumbitmoony Pool, a beautiful stone causeway, are evident upstream stretch of deep water, before bearing from the new. A CWA Hall is situated away to the North for a few kilometres. close to the old cricket ground here, I’m not sure of the exact spot where the latter, along with shady spots Bannister crossed the Hotham, but on the banks of Coomboking Pool, it was interesting, as we covered the providing convenient and comfortable remaining distance to Boddington, to camping sites for travellers. As you note that we were close to his route depart over the new bridge, you can 187 years and one week after the catch a glimpse on your left of the old explorers passed through. homestead of William and Catherine A tricky footbridge at Codjatotine. Pumphrey dating from 1867, a building Shadows Crossing. that was home to three generations of Most pools on the Hotham bear Pumphreys. It has been used as a Aboriginal names. Boddington Pool, shop and a school and has housed named after Henry Boddington who the Voluntary Defence Corps, is known to have shepherded sheep Prisoners of War, Telegraph workers, in this area in the 1860’s and 70’s, and the elderly. and who leased land there in1875, is Past Pumphreys, at Codjatotine, a one of only two named after settlers. The other is Leedom Pool named after James Leedom, a settler who drowned there in 1870. Boddington town, gazetted in 1912, has really blossomed in recent years. The pool has been much beautified by Lions Weir and its surrounds. Also, there are many facilities in the town that make it interesting and welcoming to visitors including free RV camping near the information board and lots of fascinating sculptures. There is plenty Western 4W Driver #106 17

The river at Boddington is a magnet for the kids. River before reaching the Harvey- Quindanning Road from which you can catch a glimpse of the Williams/ Hotham junction that forms the Murray. From this point, if you’re towing a caravan or driving a soft roader without much clearance, it would be advisable to exit by either Harvey, Quindanning or Williams because there are a couple of spots along the Murray River tracks we followed that may be problematic. Turning off at Tumlo took us to 4WD tracks that follow the left the bank of to see and we spent a few pleasant There are some great tracks in the hours there looking around before Murray Valley under a jarrah canopy. moving on. South of Boddington, on the the Murray downstream. We passed Marradong Road, you’ll see Dilyan’s a couple of vehicles towing camper- Grave signposted. It’s only a short trailers at the foot of a steep and rocky walk into the bush from the road, a climb and I think they were wise to turn site I hadn’t visited in almost 30 years. back from that spot. Along here there Quency Dilyan was an Aborigine are a number of tracks leading down to from the Wandering/Williams region great camping sites on the river. employed as a survey hand by both John Forrest and Henry Ranford during their Kimberley surveys. When Ranford took up farming in the vicinity of Boddington, he employed Dilyan as a shepherd. He was recognised as an excellent tracker and a reliable man but sadly, in 1886 not far from this grave, Dilyan was treacherously stabbed to death by a member of a feuding tribe. The Lower Hotham Road takes you past what is probably the prettiest part of the river on your right while Mount Saddleback looms on your left. This road passes beneath the Worsley Mine conveyor belt and crosses the Williams 18 Western 4W Driver #106

$899

Some of these access tracks are precipitous and washed out so you’re advised to inspect them first to avoid getting stuck. We found an idyllic spot and had another deliciously cool night. Next morning we negotiated several deeply rutted sections of track that would have given my Troopie some difficulty had it been wet. As it was I was able to get just enough grip in the ruts to drag my diffs along the hump, while at other spots I was able to balance my wheels on the hump and Our camp on the Murray straddle one of the ruts. Where there’s riverbed. You might have a will, there’s a way. After crossing the to try higher ground in river on Driver Road and turning along winter. the right bank of the river into the Lane Continuing from morning Poole Reserve the going becomes tea a little later in much easier with formed tracks but, Dwellingup, we halted of course, you pay the price for these briefly at the boat launch improvements. In fact a sign informed ramp in Pinjarra, then us exactly what the price would be: headed out to Yunderup $13.00 per vehicle ($7.00 for seniors) to visit an historic just to drive through. You cough up at feature I’d long wanted the exit. In addition, the sign informs, to see. Added to the camping will cost an additional $8.00 State Register during per adult per night ($6.00 for seniors; my time as manager $3.00 for kids) and most sites need of the Heritage Council’s to be pre-booked online. Our drive Assessment Program, the 1850s through confirmed that the camping Cooper’s Mill on Culeenup Island is facilities are all that can be expected; situated at one of the channels of the excellent sites at beautiful pools. Murray delta where the river empties 20 Western 4W Driver #106 into the Harvey Estuary. The estuary is linked to the sea by Peel Inlet and the man-made Dawesville Cut but we thought that the old flour mill at the Murray mouth would be a fitting ending to our wheatlands tour. Sadly, the road has been closed by the Shire because of rubbish dumping out there and you can only reach the mill by boat. This was a bit of a let down but the tour overall was a very pleasant and scenic drive with hardly any of the heart thumping drama that some 4WD excursions with our Editor have been known to produce.

Excerpt from Hema’s WA State map. GPS Waypoints Datum GDA-94 – Zone 50H Wpt Easting Northing Latitude Longitude 1 516 823mE 6 356 373mN 32° 55’ 50.8”S 117° 10’ 47.8”E 2 526 926mE 6 362 668mN 32° 52’ 25.6”S 117° 17’ 16.2”E 3 523 633mE 6 368 219mN 32° 49’ 25.7”S 117° 15’ 09.0”E 4 521 630mE 6 375 675mN 32° 45’ 23.7”S 117° 13’ 51.3”E 5 517 981mE 6 377 997mN 32° 44’ 08.5”S 117° 11’ 30.9”E 6 518 854mE 6 380 725mN 32° 42’ 39.9”S 117° 12’ 04.2”E 7 513 890mE 6 380 855mN 32° 42’ 35.9”S 117° 08’ 53.5”E 8 511 543mE 6 386 109mN 32° 39’ 45.4”S 117° 07’ 23.2”E 9 509 604mE 6 392 029mN 32° 36’ 33.2”S 117° 06’ 08.5”E 10 507 640mE 6 394 660mN 32° 35’ 07.8”S 117° 04’ 53.1”E 11 502 408mE 6 388 347mN 32° 38’ 32.9”S 117° 01’ 32.4”E 12 497 783mE 6 387 204mN 32° 39’ 10.0”S 116° 58’ 34.9”E 13 491 313mE 6 385 660mN 32° 40’ 00.1”S 116° 54’ 26.5”E 14 480 217mE 6 380 040mN 32° 43’ 02.0”S 116° 47’ 20.0”E 15 479 372mE 6 377 931mN 32° 44’ 10.5”S 116° 46’ 47.4”E 16 476 713mE 6 376 223mN 32° 45’ 05.8”S 116° 45’ 05.1”E 17 471 152mE 6 377 289mN 32° 44’ 30.7”S 116° 41’ 31.5”E 18 462 118mE 6 372 904mN 32° 46’ 52.1”S 116° 35’ 43.7”E 19 452 708mE 6 371 576mN 32° 47’ 33.9”S 116° 29’ 41.7”E 20 450 906mE 6 370 655mN 32° 48’ 03.5”S 116° 28’ 32.3”E 21 450 019mE 6 370 704mN 32° 48’ 01.8”S 116° 27’ 58.2”E 22 449 590mE 6 372 220mN 32° 47’ 12.5”S 116° 27’ 42.0”E 23 447 724mE 6 371 214mN 32° 47’ 44.8”S 116° 26’ 30.1”E 24 447 253mE 6 369 724mN 32° 48’ 33.1”S 116° 26’ 11.6”E 25 450 617mE 6 370 155mN 32° 48’ 19.7”S 116° 28’ 21.1”E 26 449 880mE 6 366 345mN 32° 50’ 23.3”S 116° 27’ 52.0”E 27 446 052mE 6 353 132mN 32° 52’ 07.0”S 116° 25’ 24.1”E 28 445 848mE 6 349 623mN 32° 59’ 25.6”S 116° 25’ 13.4”E 29 430 208mE 6 346 672mN 33° 00’ 58.2”S 116° 15’ 09.9”E 30 423 326mE 6 351 942mN 32° 58’ 05.5”S 116° 10’ 46.3”E 31 423 010mE 6 354 400mN 32° 56’ 45.5”S 116° 10’ 34.8”E 32 419 031mE 6 365 761mN 32° 50’ 35.6”S 116° 08’ 05.2”E 33 413 471mE 6 374 753mN 32° 45’ 42.1”S 116° 04’ 34.4”E 34 412 103mE 6 379 978mN 32° 42’ 52.1”S 116° 03’ 43.6”E Western 4W Driver #106 21

Trip Notes Legend (Zero trip meter at all distances given in BL = Bear Left. RHS = Right Hand Side LH column.) BR = Bear Right. Xrds = Crossroads KSO = Keep Straight On. TL = Turn Left 0.00km East side of Narrogin roundabout LHS = Left Hand Side TR = Turn Right. on Great Southern Hwy 192km from Perth (Wpt 1): Proceed East on remains of original timber bridges Wickepin Rd. are visible on either side.) 12.67km Halls Rd on LHS (Wpt 2): TL. 2.48km Zig Zag Rd on LHS (Wpt 10): TL. (Note: If you want to head out to 5.55km T-Junction: TL onto Wardering Rd. 4.38km Tutanning Nature Reserve, KSO up (Note: Cross bridge at 0.62km.) 5.87km to Pingelly and TR at the Pasture St 5.02km intersection to gain the Wickepin 3.62km T-Junction (Wpt 3): TR onto Cuballing Pingelly Rd and follow the DPAW East Rd. (Note: Cross bridge at 4.92km directions.) 3.34km.) 2.16km T-Junction: TL onto Merwanga Rd. 3.72km Pauley Rd on LHS: TL. 0.75km (Note: Cross Merwanga Pool bridge 7.62km at 3.06km.) 3.29km Walsh Rd on LHS: TL. 4.42km T-Junction (Wpt 11): TR onto 5.62km T-Junction: TL onto Gaths Rd. 3.59km Williams Rd. 1.14km 4.39km T-Junction: TL onto Stratherne Rd. Xrds (Wpt 12): KSO. (Note: TR here (Note: Cross bridge at 4.15km.) to visit Napping Bridge at 1.39km. Also, the old Woodlands Hall site is 4.30km Webb Rd on RHS (Wpt 4): TR. on the NE side of this intersection.) 4.73km T-Junction (Wpt 5): TR onto Yornaning T-Junction TR onto Popanyinning Rd. (Note: Cross bridge at 0.07km.) West Rd. 0.88km Young Rd on LHS: TL. T-Junction (Wpt 13): TR onto Wandering Narrogin Rd. (Note: 2.29km Dents Rd on LHS (Wpt 6): Pumphreys Bridge picnic area is on TL (Note: Ford near Boyamucking Pool your RHS at 0.46km and you cross at 4.23km.) the bridge just 100 metres further on.) 5.19km T-Junction (Wpt 7): TR onto Great Southern Hwy. (Note: If you TL it’s York Williams Rd on RHS: KSO 3.45km down to the turnoff for joining the Wandering Pingelly Rd a Yornaning Dam. TR for the Laze little further on. Away Holiday Farm and Caravan Park about 2km.) Codjatotine Mooterdine Rd on LHS: KSO. (Note: TL for footbridge then 5.89km Xrds (Wpt 8): KSO through return to the Wandering Pingelly Rd Popanyinning. (Note: Here you can TR and continue westwards.) for the Hotham River 1.50km bridge and ford circuit. Follow the bitumen Noombling Norrine Rd on LHS: TL. over the railway and the bridge, then take the first gravel road on the RHS Carabin Rd on LHS (Wpt 14): TL. and follow it back to the bitumen (Note: Cross bridge at 0.61km.) and xrds.) Monk Rd on LHS. BR on Carabin Rd. 7.40km Hotham River road and rail bridges (Wpt 9): KSO. (Note: The burnt out 22 Western 4W Driver #106

GUARANTEED BEST VALUE 4WD & CAMPI DOWN2EARTH CAMPING WA’S INDEPENDENT STOCKIST OF 4WDSU e 4WDSUPACENTRE is Australia’s best value 4WD and Outdoor products su estern Australia’s only authorised Stockist and we have lots of 4WDSUPACENT eck out our handy showroom and retail store where you can pop inside a Big mb up the ladder of a Rooftop Tent. We have all the well known recovery ge gs fridges. Need a roof rack? We have them too. Need fitting as well? Can do! e DOWN2EARTH team invites you to visit or phone us and see these ama ZELMERE, 6055 (Just out of Midland) – 9250 8566. Pop in between 9 and 5 on

0.13km Mooterdine Rd on RHS: TR. 0.53km Boddington Rd on RHS (Wpt 18): TR. 9.87km 2.18km Grahams Rd on RHS: TR. (Note: Xrds (Wpt 19): KSO. (Note: If you Cross ford at 1.80km.) 1.87km TR onto River Rd it’s about 360 0.06km metres down to a picnic spot on 2.19km T-Junction (Wpt 15): TL onto 0.31km Darnminning Pool.) Noombling Norrine Rd. 0.12km T-Junction: TL onto Bannister Rd. 3.17km Track in to Dumbitmoony Pool on 0.18km (Note: Hotham River bridge is on RHS.) LHS (Wpt 16): KSO. 0.70km 1.75km Free RV camping on RHS: KSO. 3.11km T-Junction: TR onto Wandering (14 2.23km Mile Brook) Rd. (Note: If you TL Wuraming St on RHS (Wpt 19): TR. it’s 1.72km down to the Hotham River bridge. The ruins of an old Johnstone St on LHS: TL. (Note: KSO road bridge is further downstream to Lions Weir parking at Boddington above Leedom Pool in a reserve for Pool and Boddington Caravan Park.) camping and recreation. We did not visit this site.) Xrds: TR onto Pollard St. 0.25km Watts Rd on LHS: TL. William St on RHS (Wpt 21): TR. (Note: Cross ford at 0.20km.) 2.46km T-Junction (Wpt 17): TL onto Crossman Dwarda (Wandering) Rd. T-Junction (Wpt 22): TL onto Tullis (Note: Cross bridge at 2.75km) (Old Soldiers) Rd. 12.26km TL onto Albany Hwy. (Note: Hotham Farmer Rd on LHS (Wpt 23): TL. River bridge is on RHS.) (Note: Cross Farmers Crossing ford at 0.90km.) 24 Western 4W Driver #106

1.60km T-Junction (Wpt 24): TL onto 5.08km Fork: BL. Farmers Ave. 2.59km Fork: BL. (Note: RHS goes 3.41km T-Junction (Wpt 25): TR onto to campsite.) Marradong Rd. (Note: Dilyans Grave, Wpt 26, on RHS at 4.13km.) 0.37km T-Junction: TR onto Calona Form. 9.73km Lower Hotham Rd on LHS (Wpt 27): 0.66km Fork: BL. TL. (Note: Straight on is Dwellingup at about 40km. The last bridge 2.30km Fork: BR. over the Hotham on this route is at 2.43km near Camballing Waterhole, 0.41km T-Junction (Wpt 30): TR onto Muddy however, the old camping reserve Landing Rd. there is closed for regeneration of native flora.) 3.26km T-Junction (Wpt 31): TR onto Driver Rd. 15.36km T-Junction (Wpt 28): TR onto Harvey 1.00km T-Junction: TL onto Murray River Quindanning Rd. (Note: 2.70km along Fireline. (Note: Lane Poole Reserve – this road the junction of the Williams Visitor fees apply.) and Hotham rivers to form the Murray River is situated on private land about 17.80km T-Junction (Wpt 32): TR. 500 metres North of the road.) 8.62km T-Junction: TL 12 48km T-Junction (Wpt 33): TR onto Nanga Rd for Dwellingup. 20.58km Tumlo (track on RHS – Wpt 29): 6.27km T-Junction: TL onto Pinjarra William Rd. TR. (Note: Straight on is Harvey at about 40km. If you turn off onto the 0.98km Xrds – Dwellingup (Wpt 34): End of Murray River track keep the river on trip notes. (Note: It’s about 23km your RHS. Tracks on that side will to Pinjarra and another 13km to lead down to riverside campsites Culeenup Rd, North Yunderup where but be careful on access tracks and we ended our trip. Pinjarra to Perth inspect on foot first.) on the South Western Hwy is about 87km. The Freeway is shorter.) An interstate truckie grabs a few quiet moments fishing the Murray from the last accessible jetty in North Yunderup before the long haul back East. Western 4W Driver #106 25

MSA 4X4 EXPLORER ALUMINIUM STORAGE DRAWER SYSTEM One of the lightest drawer MSA 4x4 patented systems ever made, the MSA ‘Pro-Glide’ technology 4x4 Explorer Aluminium smoothly handles up Drawer System boasts more to 250kg per pair of storage space than most drawers providing other systems with the same smooth opening under outside dimensions! heavy loads. A whole new level of access is provided to your drawer CRASH TESTED & ADR COMPLIANT contents, through the patented 2 stage over extension of the drawer for 100% easy access. MSA4X4.COM.AU | GEAR FOR LIFE.

“Maximise the storage space in your 4X4 by turning to the crew that does it best at MSA 4X4.” - 4X4 Australia 100% Aluminium Lighter than generic steel Patented “stay-open Construction: Super strong, drawers and up to 25% more block” allows the drawer lightweight and lifetime to remain open even on a corrosion resistance internal drawer space with equivalent external frame 30 degree slope! dimensions Patented internal LED Strip Heavy duty crash tested 250kg Access under the drawer Light delivering increased load rating per pair of drawers wings now with removable practicality, complete with manual wing face panels override switch 100% Drawer extension for complete access Available from over 600 stockists Australia wide.

PRADONIP ‘N’ TUCK 28 Western 4W Driver #106

NEW LOOK Off-Road 2018 RwRioothbbson The Toyota Land Cruiser Prado has been in Australia for nearly 30 years and since day one has proven to be one of the most reliable 4WDs on the market. Launched in 1989 the 90 Series Prado hit a chord with buyers here and through its transition to the 120 and the current 150 series its popularity hasn’t waned one bit - in fact sales indicate that it has gone from strength to strength. Western 4W Driver #106 29

he basic configuration of ladder GXL Prado has picked up safety frame chassis, independent features from the VX and Kakadu. front end and five link live axle the like are medium 4WDs and Suzukis, Rav4s and Subaru Forresters are small Trear hasn’t changed much since 4WDs. OK so that’s got that cleared up – let’s move on. 1989. But saying that, over the years there have been a myriad of changes implemented to the drive line, body, interior and, of course, the technology that has been necessary to keep pace with the ever changing demands within the automotive industry. The 2018 Prado offers a bit of a facelift from the previous model with changes to the front bumper, lights and bonnet. Toyota has also extended some of the safety features to all models across the range that were originally only available on the VX and Kakadu. Toyota Australia were good enough to let us have a GXL for a week and I have got to say by the end of that time I wasn’t too keen on giving it back - as a daily driver I really got to like the new Prado. As well as running around town, which I seemed to want to do a lot more of having the Prado parked in the drive, we also took it for a spin down to Wellington Dam for an overnighter. I was keen to see if the Prado had the potential to fit the bill out in the bush. Just before I tell you how good a tourer I thought the Prado was on the drive down to Wellington Dam, I’d really like to clear up whether or not this vehicle should be considered a large 4WD or not. It seems that the media and advertisers are hell bent on pushing this medium sized 4WD into the large category - goodness me, surely the 200 Series, Patrols and even the Range Rovers are what should be referred to as large 4WD wagons. Prados, Pajeros, MUX’s and 30 Western 4W Driver #106

... even when pushed hard, the Stability and Traction Controls along with the ABS worked together to keep everything under control. Like I said the Prado GXL is an too keen on with the update. Trying impressive tourer on the bitumen. The to see over it in tight situations and little 2.8ltr engine is no fire breather, even judging how close to get while but combined with the six speed auto it manoeuvring in what seem to be the made for a no fuss trip down the South ever shrinking car parking spaces at the West Highway and through the Harvey supermarket was testing (maybe that’s Hills to Wellington Dam. why the push to call them large 4WDs - The ride is firm without being harsh; it’s not that they are bigger, the steering is precise and even it’s just that the car parking spots are without KDSS the vehicle sits nice and getting smaller!) flat through long sweeping corners. In the cabin it is quiet and comfortable, Brake pedal feel takes a bit of getting the adaptive cruise control is a nice used to - it is very light and a heavy touch too (something else you don’t foot tends to make the Prado’s new have to think about as you come up bonnet dive and your passenger look behind a slower vehicle). Talking about up to see what the problem is. comfort, our GXL was fitted with the While we are on the subject of the optional leather, heated and ventilated bonnet, it is one thing that I wasn’t front seats. Not being used to these Western 4W Driver #106 31

V6 is gone, 2.8 diesel is now the norm. comfortable - hence the draft Barn door gives good access to the and fan noise. cargo area. I liked the simple dash lay out and the large new innovations I was at a loss to work infotainment screen. The out where the draft which seemed to big speedo and tacho be coming up between my legs was combined with a couple coming from (now now - be nice) and of smaller analogue temp the constant hum of a fan in the cab and fuel gauges and the even with the A/C off was really digital Multi Information getting the better of me - you know Display in between was a what it’s like, you just have to know nice combination I thought. where the humming is coming from! Pairing my phone to the As it turns out the fan blows air Infotainment centre was through the perforated fabric of the a piece of cake giving seat to keep the driver and passenger me hands free and a bit 32 Western 4W Driver #106 of Van the Man to while away the couple of hours to our campsite on the banks of the Wellington Dam. Sat-Nav and most of the usual technologies we have come to expect are included on the big touch screen, which I found fairly intuitive and relatively easy to use even for an old bloke who isn’t too tech savvy. Below the screen, climate control switches are all flush mounted - not a knob in sight, adding to the smooth lines of the dash’s centre console. Drive Mode Select (DMS) and Crawl Control (CC) are standard only in the top of the range Kakadu so instead of a panel that houses the DMS, CC and other off road control switches our GXL has a press and release panel that opens up a little cubby hole, (‘cute’ springs to mind), above a smaller panel fitted with low range knob, centre and rear diff lock switches, hill descent and the switch to turn off the traction control. Steering wheel audio, phone and Multi Information Display controls are pretty much standard fare and easy to use. There are also switches to turn on or off the parking and lane departure warning alarms. The Cruise Control

The largest, strongest and most robust 4x4 shock absorber ever! Drive like a ‘Pro’ IRONMAN IRONMAN 4X4 4X4 YEARS YEARS Shocks StrutsSINCE 1958 $220 ea $286 ea YEARS YEARS SINCE 1958 W4WDFP(2)010218 IRONMAN IRONMAN 4X4 4X4 www.ironman4x4.comY E ARS YEARS SINCE 1958 SINCE 1958 Family Owned Australian Company Since 1958

THE BUSHMAN ROADIE 15L TOURING FRIDGE BRILLIANT DESIGN – Fits 1.25L and wine bottles – Lid opens either side – Insulated drink holders – Fridge or freezer – Cab mountable HIGHEST QUALITY – Steel cabinet – Secop Danfoss compressor – 3 Years Warranty At only 220mm wide and 380mm high, the Bushman Roadie is incredibly practical and well designed. Made from powder coated steel for supreme strength and backed up by Bushman’s legendary customer service. NOW AVAILABLE AUSTRALIA WIDE WWW.BUSHMAN.COM.AU

stalk is the standard LandCruiser style as you like and cost as much as we have become used to - all pretty you’ve got but for mine as a minimum straight forward. I’d suggest a set of Light Truck All Once on the dirt the Prado retained the Terrain tyres, some sort of aftermarket same composure it had on the black suspension with a lift of around 50mm, top and even when pushed hard, the a steel bull bar, front recovery points Stability and Traction Controls along and a tow bar - not necessarily for with the ABS worked together to keep towing but to provide a rear recovery everything under control. point and give some protection for the Trying to get an idea of how a vehicle rear bumper. straight off the Showroom floor But of course it doesn’t necessarily performs off road and on tough 4wdrive end there. There is an absolute plethora tracks is pretty difficult to say the least. of other gear you will need - tyre With plastic bumpers, low clearance gauge, compressor, shovel, snatch and road biased tyres, tackling anything strap, shackles, snorkel ….and the more than a rutted station track is going list goes on! to cause some sort of body damage. So Giving this Prado a real test off road unless you are going to stick to good wasn’t an option, particularly if we gravel roads this Prado (and to be fair wanted to return it to Toyota unscathed, the majority of 4wd vehicles straight off but we did point it at a couple of the Showroom floor) is going to sustain tracks and with those road tyres on we some sort of damage on 4wd tracks managed to give the traction controls without some basic modifications. a bit of a workout and made use of the What does the Prado need to be rear diff lock. able to take the path less travelled to It’s good to see that Toyota have destinations far from the madding retained the excellent 130 litre fuel crowds? Well the list can be as long capacity, which if you accept the Western 4W Driver #106 35

Live rear axle gives good articulation. 8l/100km fuel consumption figure will have been diesel. take the Prado more than 1600kms - that’s a pretty impressive range by We Reckon any standard. Towing capacity has been increased Over the years to 3000kg - although one would this medium- think at capacity the little 2.8ltr might sized 4WD has struggle a tad. proved that it is a There is no more V6 petrol, it has great tourer and been dropped from the range here in capable off roader Australia with Toyota stating figures but most of all that 98% of Prados sold in recent times it has gained a reputation for toughness and reliability which has set it apart from its peers. For the twenty years I owned Robson Brothers 4wd there wasn’t a vehicle that could hold a candle to the ever reliable Toyota Prado and I reckon there is no reason that won’t continue. New safety features across the range in this new model along with a nip and tuck here and there should only add to its appeal. Nuts ‘n’ bolts Toyota Prado GXL 2018 Price: $62,990 Steering: Power-assisted rack & Built: Japan Wheels: pinion Body: Body on frame 17” alloy Safety: 5 Star Track: Front - 1585mm / Rear - Engine: 2.8ltr, 4-cylinder turbo diesel 1585mm 1GD-FTV: 130kW @ 3400rpm Approach Angle: 30.4 degrees Power: Torque: 450Nm @ 1,600rpm Departure Angle: 23.5 degrees Fuel Economy: 8L/100km (stated) Ramp Over: 22.4 degrees Fuel Tank: 130 litres Turning Circle: 11.6m Transmission: 6-speed auto, 2-speed transfer GVM: 2990kg case Weight: 2235kg Drive: Full time 4wd Tow Ball Load: 350kg Suspension: Front - double wishbone Towing Capacity: 3000kg and coil springs / Rear - leaf Warranty: 3 years/100,000km springs and live axle Service Interval: 12 months/10,000km – Front & rear – discs capped price servicing Brakes: 36 Western 4W Driver #106



DONE & Diesel engines and dust are a fatal combination as many who drive our dirt roads regularly will attest and I can now, unfortunately, add myself to that list. My dismal discovery began with a simple exercise to dyno the 70 Series, strip down the EGR system to clean out an expected carbon build-up and re-dyno to find out what possible increases in power and torque that process might deliver. What we discovered 38 Western 4W Driver #106

instead was a litany of woes By Nick Underwood leading to the installation of a whole new engine and a hole in OUCH! Don’t let this happen to you. the bank balance well north noticeable big end knock. In my case of 20 grand. the final tally was two cylinders well How could this happen to a V8 below minimum compression and six Diesel with only 220 thou on the clock? (Long term readers will recall this was my second engine after the original was killed by a single stick that ripped off a coolant hose east of Laverton.) Lack of quality air filtration is the simple answer, dust has found its way past the air filter and into the engine and combustion chamber, quickly wearing away piston rings and cylinder bores. Excessive blow-by and contamination of the engine oil has also contributed to excessive wear of the crank shaft bearings, manifesting itself in a Western 4W Driver #106 39

at bare minimum. That’s what you call Tell-tale dust has leaked past the filter an unwanted Christmas gift! seal on the inboard side of the airbox. And this is not an isolated case. Gunk accumulated near the breather in A 4WD industry source who services the inlet pipe. the vehicles on a particular mine site has seen 12 vehicles dusted in just of the filter did a reasonable job of one year. filtering any dust from air entering the To track down the leak we need to look system via the snorkel. That said, most at what changes we made to the air filters would struggle with the constant intake that might have affected the W.A. dust - especially the fine talc-type final result. bulldust encountered up north and if We originally fitted a Safari snorkel there’s a way through a paper element, which connected directly to the airbox this stuff will find it. inlet and did a great job improving What’s more of an issue is the seal airflow and keeping water out on a around the outside edge of the filter, number of occasions when I’ve taken and its ability to stop dust entering the the Cruiser for a swim. engine from above the filter. More recently, as seen in the last First thing I noticed was that the seal edition, I fitted a larger snorkel which on this filter was quite loose and while had a better angle into the airbox but appearing to sit snug on its lip, was which required substantial work to easily stretched out from position. create a bigger opening in the airbox. This may not be apparent from new Two points; the new larger inlet was well braced and sealed according to fitting instructions but the greater airflow up to the engine would have minimal effect as the engine will only suck air to a boost which in my case is pretty well standard. Driving Conditions We get out a fair bit driving everything from windy, sand-blown beaches to dusty dirt roads and the occasional cross country. Mostly we’re at the front of a convoy with little dust and when we’re tail-end we stay well back to avoid dust. What’s unavoidable is dust roiling up from the front wheels into the engine bay and this points to the likely problem. Maintenance The vehicle has been serviced every 10,000 kms with air filter changed every other service. On trips of one to two weeks twice a year I’ve been slack and not checked the filter but I don’t believe that’s a major contributor to this end result. Filter was a cheaper aftermarket product and I believe was a contributor to the problem. The paper element 40 Western 4W Driver #106

On a cheap aftermarket filter after use, On a new OEM filter the seal was locked the seal was weak, easily coming off on to a deeper lip and wouldn’t pull the lip and stretching out from the filter. away easily. I’ve not looked at a used but within the short life of the filter it’s OEM filter to compare seal flexibility subjected to engine bay temperatures but in both cases the seal was not and flexing which has obviously glued to the filter and in my opinion, degraded the material’s integrity. The that’s a failing. second part of the issue is the airbox serving two engines over 338,000 kms. and its interaction with the filter seals. Combined with a poor quality seal I The airbox in this vehicle is original don’t believe the clamps locking the and has had the privilege now of lid down in just four positions are as efficient as they could be. Web: toodyayautocentre.com.au Heading Off? Registered Repairer MRB6464 Click here to request a pre- departure checklist. Avon Valley Supplier of TIRES Email: [email protected] Western 4W Driver #106 41

A screw-down system clamping the seal between metal would be far more effective. Secondly the airbox is plastic and in a colder climate probably maintains its integrity quite well, but sitting in an engine bay next to a diesel engine generating high temperatures in W.A.’s already high ambient temperatures and copping a lot of flexing over rough terrain isn’t going to help it hold its shape. With the lid off, the airbox sides bulge out in the middle. Bulge is non-existent in a 79 Series just a few months old. 42 Western 4W Driver #106

As you can see, sitting free the lid is not square over the box and needs to be forced inboard to be fitted down perfectly on the filter seal. This misalignment could be placing torsional stress on the airbox to cause warping under extreme heat and flexing. Consequently and possibly also for tell-tale signs dust is following the cutting of the airbox to leaking past the filter. Use fit the snorkel, with the airbox lid up, good quality filters - either the sides of the box bulge out in the original equipment or quality middle as much as seven millimetres aftermarket filters and which contributes to the next issue. change them more often. The third issue relates to how the As extra insurance run airbox lid is opened and shut. grease (that won’t disaffect When kept attached to the top outlet rubber) along both sides of the pipe, the lid needs to be forced up filter seal that will stop or collect dust to get at the filter. When closing, the at a weak point. engine side of the lid tends to make In the case of the 79 airbox, I’d contact first with the filter seal and as recommend you ensure you lift the the lid is levered down onto the rest airbox lid squarely off and back on the of the box there is big potential for filter to avoid twisting the seal out of the seal to be twisted out of shape shape. You’ll need to force the lid into thus creating opportunities for dust to position before you do this. be sucked past the seal and straight Quite frankly that tells me the original into the engine. So how can this be set-up is less than perfect and prevented and your bank balance kept in the long run you might want to in the positive? simply replace the entire air The simple answer is don’t be filtration system. complacent when it comes to keeping There’s a good case for a metal airbox dust out of your engine. On any vehicle with metal tubing in and out, a more when travelling on dirt roads, tracks efficient airflow to a quality filter (flat or on windblown beaches, check your or round) and a clamping system filters regularly and inspect your airbox that gives you complete confidence under the most arduous conditions. Systems like this may not be cheap but they’ll be a damn sight cheaper than forking out for a new motor. If nothing else, please learn from my costly experience. Replacing an engine could seriously curtail your enjoyment of our great outdoors. Whatever you do, on dirt roads stay well back from the vehicle in front and out of his dust. Western 4W Driver #106 43

CREDO & - Goldfields Gems 44 Western 4W Driver #106

ROWLES Words & Pics by Alex Garner Have you ever looked at your Smartphone, down to 10 percent battery and genuinely got upset over how hard life is? If so, I’m guessing a little time in the goldfields may help put things back in perspective for you. Western 4W Driver #106 45

ur pioneers did it hard The Kunanalling Hotel ruins are a out here, carving a worthwhile stop. life out of the hot dirt the dust thrown up by our vehicles; O(literally) with picks making visibility a nightmare for the second and third vehicles in our and shovels in the madness convoy. The trade-off though was some of the gold rush. The focus of awesome footage from the drone as this story however; is not the we rolled into our camp at Rowles rich history of Coolgardie or Lagoon. The campground here is Kalgoorlie. It’s a patch of land amazing, plenty of well-spaced sites called Credo; once a pastoral with composting toilets and concrete station and now managed by fire pits (bring your own firewood) all DBCA. Following Coolgardie for no charge! Alternatively, you can North Road, straight out of Coolgardie; the drive to Credo Pristine little Homestead SHOULD only take campsite just an hour or so. I say SHOULD a short walk because there are numerous from the points of interest that are likely water. to stop you in your tracks.The first of course is the old Kunanalling Premiere Hotel. Abandoned shortly after World WarTwo, one could ponder over the ruins of the hotel and various artefacts scattered about for hours on end! Disused mine shafts are also aplenty alongside the high speed gravel road, abandoned with old boilers and battery parts strewn over the countryside. The afternoon sunlight sprayed sideways through the trees, catching 46 Western 4W Driver #106

FIND THE THAT OTHERS WALK PAST Australia’s largest Equinox 800 detector hire and the future of detecting. biggest on-line SDC 2300 prospecting supplies store WE ARE PROSPECTORS Email: [email protected] PH: (08) 9250 3388 25B Helen Street Bellevue, WA 6056 PROSPECTING SUPPLIES www.reedsprospecting.com.au

camp five minutes across the road homestead first and let the caretakers at Credo station with hot showers know where you’re off to. and flushing toilets, a rather enticing The homestead itself is good for a prospect indeed. poke around. The old shearing shed After three days without a shower has been opened up into a kind of I was dead keen for a swim in the self-guided tour, and much of the lagoon. I was a little disappointed to old machinery left lying around the see the water level far down on the property has been dragged up here and last time I saw it, yet undeterred as I put on display with a short description dashed nude across the muddy banks. of what each was used for. About 50 metres in and the thin crust A small “museum” curated mostly gave way, plunging me into knee deep by voluntary caretakers is attached goop; much to the delight of the crew. to the homestead. It’s loaded with As I slowly extracted myself from the information about the Halford family, slop I noticed something man made in the recreational and commercial uses of the middle of the lagoon. Will have to Rowles Lagoon and a load of trip notes look into that… to choose your own adventure around The next morning with the drone in the the station. It is here that I learned the air; I can pick that the item in the lake is story behind the strange item in the man-made, and maybe a steam train? middle of the lake, and I was almost My questions are soon to be answered right in saying it’s a steam train. It’s a during a visit to the Credo caretakers steam boiler! Placed there some time at the homestead. Credo station was in the year 1915; it was situated some taken up as a pastoral holding in distance above what they thought was 1906/07 by the Halford Family and was the high water line. Although Rowles initially used to run cattle, which the Lagoon is fresh water, this boiler drove family was well known for. In 1924 a pump reaching the salt water table they made the switch to sheep for just a few feet beneath the lake. This which they also had a talent; producing was used for operations at the nearby quality AAE grade wool. Encompassing Carbine gold mine; until they discovered 212,126 hectares, you’re free to explore the hard way that Rowles Lagoon can all of it. But make sure you pop into the become much, much deeper. All that water and no steam. 48 Western 4W Driver #106