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Apparently when Jim Cook called River red gums line Turee Creek inin to Tasmania’s Bruny Island in the Pilbara.1777, during his third Pacific Oceanexpedition that he was fated not to across the eastern states, but it iscomplete, a sailor collected a branch still identifiable if you know the mainof a eucalypt that eventually got to difference between the two treethe British Museum. In what I think is groups – mainly their leaf shapes.a bizarre twist, given that at the time However, along most watercoursesboth the British and the French were throughout inland Australia you cancompeting for ownership of the Great find one or another eucalypt beneathSouth Land, a French botanist Charles which you might be tempted to camp.Louis L’Héritier de Brutelle, working In most of Australia the River Redat the time in London at the British Gum (Eucalyptus camaldulensis)Museum gave the plant collected by lines the banks of the watercourses.the Englishman, the name ‘eucalyptus’ Another strange eucalypt fact thatwhich he got from Greek words that concerns this species is that it ismean ‘well covered.’ This is more than named after the Camaldoli monasteryyou can say for May Gibbs’ Gumnut near Naples in Italy from where theBabies, who weren’t well-covered at all specimen came that was describedexcept for their caps – but you get the in 1832 by the chief gardener at theidea. L’Héritier was talking about the Botanic Gardens in Naples – an Aussiecovering on the gum nut before the tree on holiday in Italy? Talking aboutflower opens - a distinct feature of French and British rivalry, I mustall eucalypts. report that the first eucalypt to beThe boundary between the mulgas collected and described and belongingand the eucalypts is not quite so only to Western Australia was theclear when you are travelling inland Yate, (Eucalyptus cornuta) whose Western 4W Driver #109 99

gum nut wears a cap like Noddy - if of trees in eastern Australia closelyyou remember him - collected near related to the eucalypts that are knownEsperance in 1792 by the French by various local names but whosebotanist Jacques Labillardiere. A tree, scientific name is ‘Angophora.’ Unlesslooking very similar to the River Red you really need to know the differenceGum is the ‘Coolabah,’ which lives for a special purpose, Eucalypts,along the rivers and creeks with very Corymbias and Angophoras can allintermittent flows that don’t provide be referred to as ‘Gum Trees.’ All ofenough year-round moisture to them provide good shade if they aresupport a River Red Gum. Both Red big enough, but while a very shadyGums and Coolabahs are very big camp can be made beneath them, youtrees and usually have a twisted trunk need to be aware that most big matureand crown. The River Red Gum has gum trees are famous for dropping asmooth bark from the trunk right up to limb or two under certain conditions.the small branches while the Coolabah Considering how big the darn things It can be a risky business propping under river red gums.has rough bark on the lower trunk, but grow, a falling limbthe upper part and the branches have will crush anythingsmooth bark. Both of these eucalypts beneath it whenhave pretty small ‘gum-nuts’ but it hits the ground,even so, these small seed-carrying and they havestructures are useful for professionals been responsiblewho need to identify exactly which for some deathsspecies is which. And talking about over the years. Thethe professionals, there has been a River Red Gum isdivision made in the eucalypt group especially famouswith some being shifted to a group for unexpectedlyknown as ‘Corymbia’ while the rest dropping limbs;stayed as ‘Eucalyptus’ – (it really only unfortunately, therematters to another eucalypt). For ages is still no clear understanding of whatpeople have recognised a small group causes this. Such a lack of knowledge is inconvenient because it seems to100 Western 4W Driver #109 be more prevalent during the summer months just when we are looking for a bit of shade and it doesn’t seem to be associated with wind or weather events, so is completely unpredictable. Widespread and extended drought does seem to have made the problem a more frequent occurrence. Trees, like most living things, want to live and do whatever they can to save themselves and shed limbs to retain available moisture in what remains



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of themselves so that overall, the tree Australia by First Fleet settlers whocan survive. So, a severe lack of water used their thin and flexible trunks tois one cause of limb drop –you have make ‘wattle and daub’ walls for theirbeen warned! Never camp under big huts). Acacias got their name from aEucalypts in drought country – or species that grows along the Nile Riveranywhere else. While Australia can lay in Africa; a few scattered and importedclaim to most living eucalypts (New trees of the same variety grow inGuinea, Indonesia and the Philippines north Queensland. More than tenhave a few), the oldest Eucalyptus years ago someone discovered thatfossil leaves, which are about 52 the Australian wattles weren’t closelymillion years old, have been found in related to the about 100 species knownArgentina in South America, where in Africa and a few other spots. Aseucalypts no longer grow naturally. there are more than 900 of them inLike stunning Rugby players, fossil Australia that would have had to haveeucalypt leaves less than half that age their names changed, the easy wayalso occur in New Zealand, where they out was to leave the Aussie speciesare not native today (Go Eagles). This alone and re-name the others. Assuggests that they are a Gondwanan you might imagine this caused anspecies from the time when most of uproar – amongst the non-Australians.the land in the southern hemisphere Fossils that appear to be ancient formswas joined together. of acacia about 20 million years old,If you thought that there were a few have been found in the Paris basinnations and travellers mixed up in in France, (those French again!), inthe eucalypt story, wait ‘till you hear Hungary, Switzerland and a few placesabout the acacias or ‘wattles’ as on the eastern coast of the Black Sea.we call them (after their first use in Seems even worse in ancestral termsThe mulga covers a huge part of the WA outback. Western 4W Driver #109 103

than the eucalypts doesn’t it? But let’sleave the botanists to sort that out andjust look at acacia trees themselves– although many just grow as shrubsrather than trees. Once again, WesternAustralia has a huge number of variedspecies known for their distinctiveflowers and their amazingly variedleaf forms. What is not appreciated by4W drivers is the burnt stumps thatseem harder than iron and will stabthrough a tyre’s sidewall quicker thanyou can say ’bull-bag. ‘Try to avoidthese! It was because acacia wood isso tough that many, if not all, woodenartefacts used by Aboriginal peoplein some regions were made of acaciawood. Aboriginal people used acaciasregularly and daily for a huge range ofpurposes: seeds provided food, gumand sap gave medicines, and toolslike digging sticks, spear barbs, spearshafts, shields, clubs, boomerangs, Nice to camp in, Mulga makes the best firewood but it is also good at taking the wind out of your tyres.spear throwers, clap-sticks used in There are greatsinging events as well as things like stories amongstfirewood, ash to mix with chewing bushmen abouttobacco, charcoal for paint, inner-bark the wood beingfibres for string and the list goes on. used to replaceSadly, acacias are rarely big enough to various car parts incamp beneath – which would be great emergencies. But, asas they don’t drop their branches! far as I know there is no handbook of tips and procedures that accompanied104 Western 4W Driver #109 the “Bush Mechanics” TV shows, so you’re on your own mate, but I know you will heed the warnings I have given from my spot here next to the cooler bar. I’m just hoping I’m not under it later on tonight.

WINA UH 9080 UHF Radio We look forward to receiving the magfrom our mates at and more comments like Ms Burtons’ Cheers‘keeping you connected’ John & Dianne GustafsonLitter Buggers You’ve got it in a nutshell John. I like the new maxim, ‘The standard youG’day Nick, walk past is the standard you accept’.Reading Amanda Burton’s letter has The late Ian Kiernan epitomised that byprompted me to comment that toilet collecting rubbish and urging others tolitter is not just a problem, it is all litter do the same.and it is not just in the Kimberley. Now millions of others around theAs an aging 4WD nut (now in an ‘off- world who ‘walked past’ his standardroad’ caravan) Di and I have travelled are following his example.That’s thethe Great Central Road twice, the sort of groundswell we need to turn theVictoria Highway four times and he tide. For every person who stops to pickNullarbor fifteen or sixteen times and up a piece of rubbish, hopefully, othersmost roads/tracks in between. We will be inspired to do the same.would have to say that of all the states All the Best,WA is the worst for litter and some of Nickthe worst litter-bugs are caravaners.Just like the oceans of this world, the “Click here for more”vastness seems to attract the “she’ll beright mate, it’s only a bit of paper” (or Congratulations John. You’vecan ,etc.) syndrome.Having said that, we stopped for a won the latest UHF Radio‘cuppa’ at the Gibb River Crossing andencountered a tour group of Japanese from and a 12eating tour driver - supplied oranges.They were standing around looking for month subscription tosomewhere to put the peel when thedriver told them to “just throw away”. I Re joycing onof course in my usual dulcet tonessuggested that up his shirt or on his the Gibbseat would be best and when wearrived home much later contacted the Hi Nick,company who informed us the driver May I open by stating that Ihad since sought other employment. unreservedly share your quest for someNick, despite the promises made by humour around the camp fire. We‘Leave No Trace’ when they absorbed have a Poets Breakfast here every year.TreadLightly, the message has faded Where those blokes get some of thatsomewhat. Western 4W Driver #109 105

humour from I beg to follow. It’s done yourself a favour. Get yourself and yourwithout naughty words, or maybe one mob into an aircraft, early AM. Fly overhere and there and is profoundly, the Bungles, land, spend the day thereblissful humour. The singers and with two of their guides. They will pickguitarists are funny. I have to make sure you up, drive you around to EchidnaI’m not drinking when they’re in action. and Cathedral Gorges. They supplySomeone might get sprayed! food, water, tea, coffee, combined withKimberley. We are due to have another some of the most amazing landscapesrun, third, on GR Road next year. you’ll ever see in your life. Put you backThat will be my third, but there is so on the plane and back to Kununurra,much down that bugger of a road that I just before sundown. It’s worth everycan’t get it all at once. I invite myself to penny – for a day in your life you’llany camp fire. If we can chat for a few never forget. Having done it once it’s onminutes, or get invited to sit down, then our agenda for a repeat performancegod knows what happens after that! Or next year.when I get to bed! Probably 2morrow! So – that’s about it brother. But before II love the families. Dad Mum and the go, remember this – “You live on onekids, first trip, all new. Always send a of the most amazing places onfew emails later. this earth”.We have seen some dreadfully Don’t pass it by. Love it while you aredamaged cars on this road. One was a young, and tell your mates.new car, purchased in Derby a day or Best regardstwo earlier, L front wheel completely Murray Joyceburied under the centre of the car, onlyan hour from Derby. Two fellows and a Strewth Murray, you’ve got morelady. Trip over. energy than the Indian Pacific!We have had many requests, “Have Might have to plan a trip out your wayyou got a welding machine mate?” for poets breakfast day. Always on theSorry mate, forgot to put that one in! lookout for some new material and aGot some chewing gum ya can have! good dose of funnies beats a dose ofThe two recent fatalities were very (insert ailment here) any day.unfortunate. I am a life-member of the On the Gibb River Road, (where I’dRFDS. We do our best to air-lift people really like to be sometime soon) I wasout of some difficult places but GRR speaking to a Kununurra tow truckis out of bounds. So, have to be extra operator who spends a lot of timecareful! This road is helicopter country. rescuing travellers off the track and heNot many of these around. reckons most of his jobs are haulingSome farms have airstrips for their own out vans or campers that aren’t up toaircraft, but they are unable to cater the task, are towed on hard tyres at toofor RFDS aircraft. Be very careful. No high speeds by vehicles in 4wd highplace for stupid tricks. If you get it over surfaces that should be treatedwrong, then we will all have to eat with a bit more respect. Locking ascones and drink tea for a day, get the vehicle into 4wd on a good straightdrift Mate? road and driving harder he says, isFinally, GRR is an amazing place of what causes corrugations and bustedbeauty, waterfalls, camp sites, hills, running gear.valleys and rivers, unique flora, fauna, Same old story, everyone in aand amazing great people. hurry, Murray.I love them all. Closest I’ve been to Purnululu wasAt the end of the road, Kununurra, do a thousand feet up in an open door106 Western 4W Driver #109

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chopper taking pics for Slingair back Mobile Hotspot27 years ago. And yes I have got a life -mainly ruled by deadlines. G’day Nick,Must fix that. Currently doing a trip to The Cape viaEnjoy your trip and we look forward to GCR/PLENTY etc via Cairns to pick upthe next instalment. my son. Then back to same to drop himAll the Best, off, me onto the south coast of SA.Nick Whilst in the West MacDonnells (Palm Valley and the historic Owen SpringsA word from homestead-abt 90kms sw of AS) I came across these ‘mobile hotspots’, I don’tCathedral Poolpit know if youve come ax them. Turn your wifi on, put your phone in theHi Nick, red cradle, wait 30 sec and 3g arises.After years of camping at Cathedral Had to havago......works.....to be sure.....Pool in Wittenoom Gorge, I finally to be sure. Sent out data on whatsappdecided it was time to clean up the big to a mate back in WA........in the ‘middlefire pit, as it was spoiling the view of of nowhere.’ I would have to presumewhat we all know is a fantastic pool. that the NT PWS is progressivelyPlease view my before and after pics installing these in their areas.Best Regards Cheers... Mike ClarkeJohn Skinner Mike, you’ve left me feeling like I inhabit a warm, dark spot somewhere back in time.The good thing is dinosaurs don’t need a lot of this new- fangled technology. That said, there’s plenty out there who will be testing your new discovery with relish I’m sure. Cheers, Nick‘Onya John.They get a bit big and ugly CAT D8 2U?after a while. It’s not so bad if everyoneuses the same spot but judging by the Hi Nickscars behind you, it looks like others With regard to the last issue relatingprefer to make their own arrangements. to a photo of Len Beadell’s dozer. It is‘Before’ pic was a bit ‘how’s-your-father’ definitely a Cat D8 & these are veryso we stuck with the ‘after’. rare with hydraulic controls. Most ofCheers, these in those days were cable. DoesNick anyone know what particular model it is? It could be an 8R or a 2U series. Apparently it has been restored by Dick Smith & is in his collection now. Thanks Ray Milich Thanks for the feedback Ray. Many years ago I heard that the dozer was clearing fencelines on a station down Western 4W Driver #109 109

on the Nullarbor. smaller diameter tyres or lower theIf we hear any more on this (maybe floor instead of only half lifting the roof.from Connie-Sue) we’ll let you know. Take Care Terry WilsonCheers,Nick Thanks for your inputTerry.The next part is a great read on Pg 155.Carport Capers Regarding low slung carports, I like my 33” tyres.They give me crucialHi Nick clearance under the diffs and the oneI have read the latest edition and you rafter contact is better than a fuel lighthave done it again. The mag is always reminding me to top up the tanks tointeresting and well written. I have two clear it in future. Now all I have to do iscomments to share with you. wait for the Ironman leaf springs to sagFor a while the electrical technology a bit, but hell might freeze over etc. etc.seemed to be missing so the Power Cheers, Nickto Burn Part 1 was a great read. Iwas with TAFE WA for 30 years as Got a question?a lecturer, curriculum manager and Got an opinion?some time writing or editing technicalpublications. This article not only was Send your letter to:well written, the style and explanation [email protected] exceptional. I look forward to thenext two parts. Everyone’s a winner!The second comment is about yourcar port. Some people would say getLET’S MEATAT YOUR CAMPSITE Select from our extensive menu Get all your trip meat from the little and we will: butcher with the big reputation. • Vacuum pack your meat by the meal. • Tag each pack by contents and day. Eg: breakfast - bacon & sausages, day 4. • Freeze for your convenience. 354 MARMION ST. MELVILLE(P0h8o)n9e3/F3a0x 3o8rd6e3rs:110 Western 4W Driver #109

BEACH BASHEDWe’ve all seen Ever the opportunists, these fishos enough braved the smell and biteys to get vehicles closer to the action. swallowed Disappointing exposure.by the surf to knowwe should neverunderestimate thepower of the oceanand here’s a primeexample of that powerwhich has decimatedthe dune front south ofWhite Hills.The weatheringhas exposed long-buried rubbish and createda seaweed island the likesof which we’ve never seenbefore. Certainly made a goodfishing platformfor a couple ofadventurousfishermen.Might havebeen when ithad all its arms. Click here for our beach driving video. Western 4W Driver #109 111

K ARARAAND RE-BUSHING THE BUSH112 Western 4W Driver #109

COLOUR By Nick Underwood There may not be the variety but there’s no doubting the impact a good winter has on the wildflower display in the Midwest or for that matter, a brand new crop for this part of the planet. Cape weed contrast in Dampiera. Western 4W Driver #109 113

Besides the wildflowers which aside, the bush on either side of the have only raised their heads Great Northern Highway was alive with according to the vagaries of the everlasting white, blue and yellow and seasons over the last few years, promising a technicolour weekend.we love the Midwest for the mulga Heading on up the highway past theand the tracks that meander through heavily mined Mt Gibson (soon to beit - not to mention the breakaways and Lake Gibson.) we turned north to crossoccasional eminences that rise up from Lake Monger and settled into campthe mulga’s limitless horizon.In keeping with our desire to avoidthe road train-clogged highway up toWubin, we wandered instead northeastvia Goomalling, Dowerin - with a lunchbreak at the delightful Petrador Rocks- before Kalannie and the GoodlandsRoad at the end of which we slippedback onto the Great Northern Highwaywell up from Wubin.We had long given up on the wreathleschenaultia display on the GoodlandsRoad which at one point was prolificenough to have signage announcingits proximity. Being a disturbed earthspecialist, the longer the earth remainsundisturbed the more diminished thedisplay becomes and even anotherdisplay along the Wanarra Road whicha few years ago was a veritable carpeton the roadside, was reduced to theodd hardy specimen. These plants114 Western 4W Driver #109

at a delightful spot on its northern up the Yalgoo Road to Thundelarrashore. Here, as is our wont, we cracked Station. Reflecting typical rainfalla tinny or two and got down to patterns up here, this time Thundelarraconvivial conversation around the Homestead was quite bereft of colourcampfire. This first night’s camp but the place is always worthy of ain the mulga gathered around the good look around. Caretaker Paul,bush telly, to me, epitomises the with a consuming passion for the place4WD travelling life. The mulga is restoring buildings and creatingfor us is a second home and thefirst night’s camp always heavy At home in the Mulga.with the promise of adventure to The oldest remaining farm buildingfollow. Waking up to the familiar in Western Australia.call of the crested bellbird(dit-dit-dididit) we pointed our convoy to accommodation and campsitesWarriedar homestead to look over for those who can use thethe excellent restoration work station as a base to explore thecompleted by Track Care WA’s surrounding Karara Rangelands.Rangelands team before heading Unfortunately there’s not a lot of budget available for restoration work and Paul struggles with meagre funding so there’s an open invitation for any handy man or woman to help Paul Western 4W Driver #109 115

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Carpets of colour west of Rothsay.restore Thundelarra to its (dare I say road you can drop into the Fields Findit) former glory. After a guided tour cemetery where headstones hint at theof the buildings we motored down struggles of life on the Goldfields.the Paynes Find Road to Fields Find From there a scenic drive along thewhere we found a lunch spot well off edge of Lake Monger with a briefthe road and in amongst the detritus stretch of the legs out to Tourmalineof gold days gone by. As many would Island brought us back to camp andhave done before, here you can an evening of jolly japes and jokeswander amongst the broken bottles, around the campfire. Drive homeold tobacco tins and altered earth and day took us along the Perenjori Roadquite easily imagine fevered fossikers then north to Rothsay where ourworking their patch while they hopes of checking out the historicdreamed of how they would live when site were dashed with dire warningsthey struck the lode - dreams mostly to proceed no further. Even the veryunfulfilled. A short distance down the informative signage at the intersection Western 4W Driver #109 117

Leptosema aphyllum. was gone. Once again it’s Mined over118 Western 4W Driver #109 Matter. They mined, we don’t matter. Rothsay has had a chequered history of failed attempts to find commercial quantities of the precious stuff going right back into the tail end of the 19th century so I’ll be interested to see how long this one lasts and what condition it’s left in. Turning left at Rothsay we wandered through an everlasting wildflower meadow of blackbutt and acacia where dappled sunlight poked through to light up the carpets of mauves, yellows and whites. Occasionally along this track you’ll find original road markers from long ago, off in the bush and approximating the original track line. Still heading west we cruised by the Damperwah Hills, through the vermin-proof fence and on to the old farm school which has also had the Track Care treatment. Seriously folks, if you feel inspired to give a bit back, volunteering with Track Care WA is a very worthwhile endeavour. You meet some great people with a strong passion for the

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White everlastings were the predominant bush carpet. Pic: John Brown.bush - people who are prepared to get years ago we drove eastoff their bums and give a lot back to of Perenjori at this timekeep tracks accessible into the future. of year to see topsoilCheck out the Track Care WA website blowing off a parchedfor more. land to pile up againstWith tummies morning tea’d up we fencelines leaving Cockiesmade for our final stop before bee- little opportunity tolining for home. To set the scene, produce anything like a decent crop off this marginal and degraded land. Fast forward to today and, a good winter notwithstanding, these same paddocks are brimming with acacia and other natives. The ground is stabilised and the air is alive with birds and insects drawn to the lush new bush. The place is completely invigorated and it’s all down to carbon sequestration.120 Western 4W Driver #109

Carbon sequestration is the sort of title world the planting of trees is, Ahem,that can make the average person’s growing with Government assistancebrain hurt, on the face of it, it seems to mainly, but also as an independenthave no context at all with the problem initiative by business. So here init’s solving and consequently leaves Perenjori a mob called Carbon Neutralthe efforts of those who practise it have purchased marginal land andpretty well unappreciated among are planting natives to store carbonthe populace. and help reverse the decline. ThisSo allow me to elucidate. (It’s for my process is funded by companies withown good.) The problem simply is a conscience who are looking to off-that carbon dioxide (CO²) from our set their CO² emissions and becomeever-increasing use of fossil fuels is effectively carbon neutral.wrecking the air we Our mate Martin and his employer,breathe while at thesame time the treeswe need to soakup CO², store thecarbon and releaseoxygen back intothe atmosphere arebeing chopped downfaster than they’rebeing replaced.So around the A briefing on the carbon sequestration process. Austral Fisheries have taken up the challenge wholeheartedly and show a fine example of how the process works. They have fleets in a number of fisheries including prawns and patagonian toothfish and they have quantified their emissions from every aspect of their business. From catching the bait to catch the fish, sending the fishing boat out and back, storing the catch, processing it, packaging it, flying it to say, New York, through the markets to the restaurant, cooked and onto the diner’s plate, Carbon neutral’s Perenjori property is the ultimate natural storage facility turning this land from an unproductive dustbowl into thriving bushland ready for grazing and beehives. Western 4W Driver #109 121

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every last emission is quantified. Withthat known quantity of emissions perkilogram of product, they purchasetrees planted in Perenjori that aremeasured for annual growth toconfirm the carbon storage value(based on an international standard)matches their emissions output. Atthe same time the company makesevery effort to reduce its fuel usagethrough best practice thereby reducingits carbon footprint. Why? - simplybecause they care (and might sellmore fish to people who support theirethics). What a great example forothers to follow and what better wayto conclude our wildflower wanderingthrough the Midwest. As we stood onthe hill overlooking vast swathes ofre-planted native bush, we felt hopefor future generations, that they mightenjoy a decent lungful of air andappreciate the part the bush has toplay in their quality of life.Excerpt from Hema’s WA State map. Western 4W Driver #109 123



AND HOW IT AFFECTS YOUR IRTY ENGINE’S HEALTHDIESEL ByAlexGarnerIt’s Golden, slippery, and propels many of ourvehicles into places less travelled – yet that’soften all we choose to know about diesel!There’s a lot to like about this fuel, and also alot to be aware of. Know your fuel, and you’llbe better prepared to make your engine runlonger and stronger.Dirty fuel canwreck a great trip.This happened atMt Gould after atankful from 44gallon drums in the Gascoyne.

iesel comes from crude oil rating – and greater efficiency. Therefore separated in a fractional Cetane could be considered the diesel distillation tower. Heating the equivalent to a petrol octane rating. As emission and efficiency rules getDcrude oil causes it to vaporise. As tighter over the years, the minimum Cetane rating for diesel fuel hasthe vapour reverts to liquid at different increased. The Australian standardtemperatures it is collected as different requires a minimum Cetane of 46.products (asphalt, kerosene, diesel, BP Ultimate diesel claims typicallypetrol, avgas etc). The first to revert to 52, Shell diesel extra claims a typicalliquid is asphalt when the vapour hascooled to about 400 degrees Celsius.The remaining vapour keeps rising,until it cools around 200 to 350 degreeswhere diesel is collected. Remainingvapour continues to rise throughthe tower, separating into differentproducts as it condenses.There are thousands of differenthydrocarbons that make diesel fuelwhat it is, plus a heap of elementsadded during refinery before it endsup in your tank. This wasn’t always the Since the early 90s One would hope these exorbitant prices don’t include a percentage forsulphur content in diesel contaminants. fuel has reduced from Cetane of 49. As you pass 50, you’re getting diminishing returns; and you 5000 PPM (parts per probably won’t see a Cetane over 55. But minimum Cetane rating isn’t million) to 10. all that’s changed in diesel fuel. The biggest changes began occurring in the case though. It was a pretty dirty fuel early 90’s, with a major concentration that came straight from distillation, on sulphur content reduction. The maybe with some dye added; and introduction of the Euro 1 emission powered big old mechanical injection standard in 1993 saw the maximum diesels putting out more exhaust sulphur content of diesel fuel (the most smoke than power. harmful element) cut from 5000 parts So what makes it go bang? Diesel per million (PPM) to 2000. And again to engines don’t use a spark to ignite 500 PPM with Euro 2 in 1996; then on to the fuel, they are designed to auto Euro 5 with only 10 PPM. ignite the fuel on injection. The high What a reduction! compression inside each cylinder Awesome! You say! This sulphur stuff raises the air temperature to such a point that the atomised diesel fuel ignites spontaneously when injected. How quickly this occurs determines the Cetane rating of your diesel fuel. Slower ignition means a lower Cetane rating. Quicker ignition means a higher 126 Western 4W Driver #109



sounds like the devil’s handiwork! corrosion, and creates an environmentWell…yes and no. While it’s not that for bacteria and algae to grow. Evengreat for our lungs, it does have some if these two things don’t kill yoursolid lubrication properties for delicate engine, water alone will! Fuel handlinginjection systems. Something has to processes are usually very tight, soreplace this property, and it comes where does it come from?in the form of lubricity enhancers I had a chat with Hugh at Filter Suppliesadded to the fuel as part of the refining WA who has a HUGE knowledge ofprocess. But that’s not all you’ll find diesel filtration and water ingress.in there. Anti-foaming agents, alpine Would you believe it, some of theadditives for cold climates, and a range water found in fuel at the big serviceof detergents to keep the fuel system stations comes from lack of care. Theclean are additives that you’ll find in service port for the dipstick to checkvarious concentrations through many(not all) diesel mixes.Unfortunately, none of these additivescombat issues most harmful to amodern diesel engine; water andmicrobial infestation. Water is the rootof all problems here. It causes rust andWhile most newer servos have raisedservice ports some older ones can bereal water traps. If you’re unsure aboutfuel quality, avoid re-fuelling while thetanker’s there.128 Western 4W Driver #109

fuel levels is almost always recessedin the ground. It’s sealed against wateringress, but only if you don’t open it.When the person checking the fueldoesn’t clear water away from that portfirst, they’re pulling a plug and lettingthe water drain on in.Condensation is also a majorcontributor. Air is expelled from thetank as it gets warm and is pulled in as The build-up of water and the diesel With water comes rust and bug that lives on it can create a lot of that can make a meal of a filter-blocking sludge in a fuel tank. steel fuel tank.it cools. Moisture in that air condenses So if you can’t trust that your fuelinto water, and settles in the bottom of won’t have an excess of water,the tank along with all the other crud. you need to look at removing it.As the pickup for an underground tank Hugh swears by a second filtersits 150mm off the bottom, you won’t with a water trap - available as a kit heusually be unlucky enough to pump a sells. Of course, this will help removeload into your vehicle. It’s a different any other contaminants that shouldstory when the tanker shows up to make it into your tank; be it rust, silt,resupply the service station though. plant matter or whatever else. What itThe delivery tube to fill these won’t help with is separating a diesel/underground tanks pushes new fuel water emulsion – where the fuel andstraight to the bottom where it stirs up water have become bonded. ‘Dieselwater and sediment. If you opt to fill Bug’ is capable of bonding emulsifiedup while the tanker is there, that fresh water to hydrocarbons via its excreta.delivery has stirred water all the way Cladosporium Resinae is the mostthrough your diesel. It can take 4 to prevalent variety of diesel bug. This8 hours for the undesirables to settle stuff lives right on the interface wherebelow the pickup. Fill up in that period, the water and fuel meet. It lives on theand you probably just copped a few surface of the water, and feeds on themillilitres of water in your tank. fuel – growing into a mass that clogs filters and hoses. There’s really no way of stopping its spread, as it can be transferred in the fuel, or by spreading its microscopic spores through the air. The ideal way to control ‘The Bug’ is to ensure there is no water in the fuel for it to grow on. Western 4W Driver #109 129

So how long will your Diesel fuel with rustydiesel last before water, tank bottom waterdiesel bug, oxidisation below and agitatedand breakdown of the fuel clad above. This, Fuelmake it unusable? Well… Doctor says, is what fuelhow long is a piece of looks like directly afterstring? Regular testing is a road tanker fill into anthe only way to determine underground tank.the condition of the fuel.Under ideal conditions, more cost effective forin bulk fuel storage tanks them to fix the occasionalit’s anywhere from 6 to vehicle whose owner has12 months. On top of the complained than to spendincreased chance of diesel bug on quality additives. Eventaking hold in that time, and the if they did, you’d pay a lotever increasing amount of water more at the pump. By takingfrom condensation, you also have additives into your own hands,oxidisation of the fuel taking place. The you’re increasing the lubricity tohydrocarbons are reacting with oxygen in healthier levels, slowing oxidisation ofthe tank, forming gums and reducing the the fuel for longer storage, and helpingcetane rating as this reaction occurs. This to keep ‘the bug’ at bay. The Fuel Doctorleads me to the final point, fuel additives. additive deals with water and diesel bugParticularly the ones you can grab off the in the fuel by breaking down particlesshelf at an auto store. Why would you small enough and suspending them – sowant to put additives in the tank when they can pass through your fuel systemyou’ve already got them pre-mixed from without causing damage. So there youthe pump? For this I had a word to Steve have it, this seemingly basic bottom ofMarriott from Fuel Doctors. His product the distillation chain product hides a fair‘Fuel Doctor’ is one such additive. bit below its oily surface! Know whatThe main reason is cost cutting. you’re putting in the tank, and enjoy theSuppliers don’t want to be too generous torque and economy that comes withwith what they add to your fuel; that owning a diesel.costs money. They assume their fuelwill have a very quick turn around and Special thanks to:put only the bare minimum required Hugh Ash of Filter Supplies WAinto the diesel. As far as dealing with (www.filtersupplies.com.au)water and diesel bug goes, it’s probably Steve Marriott of Fuel Doctors (www.fueldoctors.com.au) A good filtration system and quality additives combined with topping your tanks up at busy servos should keep you on the long road longer.130 Western 4W Driver #109

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GAINING WISDOMIt’s hard to imagine that in such an without them is a critical element of 4w involving recreation as 4w driving, driver training these days. fatigue could be an issue and on Sticking to the notion that 4w driving rough terrain, for the experienced, is also a lot of fun, Eureka is seriousit probably isn’t. But for newbies to about developing skills while managingthe game the assault on the senses of to make a day’s driving at the beach orhaving to assess the way ahead and in the hills a great experience inspiringmake quick-fire decisions would take drivers to seek out the aforementionedits toll and could lead to driver fatigue ‘lot of fun’ with confidence. As a backup,quite quickly. Certainly not up there in every participant on a course gets athe glamour stakes when one thinks free app. chock fullabout learning to 4w drive, driver fatigue of driving tips tois as much a safety issue to WA’s leading take away for future4w driving trainers, Eureka as wheel reference.placement on a rocky, rutted hillside. In convoy with EurekaEureka 4WD Training’s head trainer, big you’re not likely toPete Deas, takes defensive driving and lose them either.fatigue seriously and says when drivers With their bright newsuddenly move up from a small bitumen- colours of yellow andbound sedan to a big go-anywhere black, their vehicles4wd, defensive driving and its many stick out like thefacets such as concentration techniques, proverbial. You’ll findemergency braking, stopping distance their new offices inand understanding how to work with Midvale for the sametraction aids all come in to play. In fact reason and theirturning off traction controls and teaching coffee’s to die for.drivers how to handle circumstances Now don’t be132 Western 4W Driver #109 fooled into thinking 4wd training is just for newbies to the recreation. Eureka believe you can teach an old dog new tricks - especially if he’s moved up from an old dog of a fourby to a new-fangled, all bells and whistles truck with more extras than a film set. Eureka know these features inside out and can save you a heap of embarrassment out on the track by showing you how to put them to best use. If you know an old dog in a new truck or someone just starting out, send them to Eureka 4WD Training. It’s a move they won’t regret. Call on 08 9461 2300 or hit the website: www.eureka4wd.com.au to learn more, their new offices are at 19 Stanhope Gardens, Midvale 6054.

4WDGET OUTTHE MOST OF YOUR CALL TODAY! 9461 2300 For more information SERVICES contact us or visit our website! Introductory courses [email protected] Sand, bush and a eureka4wd.com.auCome and join us on an Eureka 4WD combination oftraining course, where you will gain the skill andconfidence to safely negotiate different terrains. sand & bush coursesFrom a picturesque sand course to the Unbiased advice on NATIONALLY RECOGNISEDchallenges of the bush, we provide you with a equipment COURSES FOR MINING &fun and rewarding day learning how you can RECREATIONAL DRIVERSbest use your own vehicle. Defensive driving courses RTO #52488 Cert IV qualified instructors

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ITALIAN DAMPER CLEWED UPLife has been ridiculously busy up here at Melangata especially the with Jo Clews last eight weeks or so with the influx of visitors to witness the ingredients together and as I am prettyamazing wildflower display, check out partial to pumpkin, then of course it onlyour awesome back yard and stay a seemed logical to use pumpkin soup.night or two with us at either the camp So the next show I did out at Kalgoorlieground or in the homestead. I put it all together and it was awesome,For our first full season I am very happy it’s definitely going in the next book.with how it’s all gone and am already You will needin the planning process for next year. 2.5 cups of self-raising flourOne night I even had a little tear in my 1 400ish gram can of butternuteye and was feeling a tad emotional as pumpkin soupI arrived at the campfire to find one of 100grams of chopped fetaour guests playing guitar and singing 3 rashers of finely diced cooked baconand another playing harmonica and 12 stuffed green olives slicedabout 20 guests enjoying the evening. It feels like I have missed something butI commented to my friend that this was nope, that’s it.exactly what I was hoping to achieve, Place flour in a bowl and add the olivesbig tick off the list. In amongst all this Ihave been ducking off to still do demos feta and bacon, mix together until allat shows and thinking about my ingredients are combined and coatedtwo week catering job for a bunch in flour.of scientists and volunteers on Make a well in the middle of the dryDirk Hartog Island. So sadly, ingredients and tip ¾ of the can of soupshock horror my article for the into the well.magazine was the last thing on my With a butter knife cut all ingredientsmind. That is until I casually asked together, you may need to use the restwhen Mr Ed would like my latest of the soup, until thoroughly combinedoffering, thinking I might have a and a stiff dough has formed.bit of time up my sleeve, a fewhours before heading off overseas Western 4W Driver #109 135(or technically overseas to DHI).“Before you go” came the reply.Not quite the answer I was hopingfor, but as I am a trooper andnothing is too hard then a recipehe will get.Anyway this recipe came from aconversation with a guest at the station.Thanks Larry. He happened to mentionthat he had an old Italian mate who useda can of tomato soup and some herbs tomake his damper instead of usingwater, milk or beer.Well of course my mind started putting

temperature. This recipe also makes great dumplings to pop on top of a hearty winter stew or savoury scones for something different with the refreshing afternoon Ale. Don’t just stop at these ingredients experiment with some salami, sundried tomatoes, different cheeses and even different soup flavours. EnjoyTip dough onto a floured surface andshape into a disk, make sure not toknead the dough as it will end up tough.Place the dough disk on a greased orpaper lined baking tray and cook forabout 25 minutes in an oven of about200degC or a camp oven of the same Because Vision is Safety Clearview Towing Mirrors are now available with power fold function - with the flick of a switch your Clearview Mirrors will fold in towards the vehicle.* For more information visit www.clearviewaccessories.com.au * Only available on selected models.136 Western 4W Driver #109

GEAR TOGO CAMPINGBig Adventures Tasmania, or the Top End Gulf Country, Great Desert Tracks Fraser Island, theARE you into historic huts? Southern Forests and other places youGreat, because there are clear never knew existed.instructions on how to get to some of There’s a lot of new content, presentedthose iconic structures in Hema’s latest in an easy-to-read format that not4WD Adventures Guide. only makes it a great reference on theThe huts, some dating back to the early road, but a great Christmas gift for1900s, were constructedto give cattlemen any seasoned or rookieand forestry workers adventurer. Featuresprotection against the include 100 4WD trips,elements and one of them detailed inset mapsfeatured in The Man from showing the nearestSnowy River. supply points andThat one, in Victoria’s High camping areas, and theCountry region, is actually tracks are colour-codeda replica, specially built tracks by vehicle type, plusfor the movie back in 1981 edge-to-edge mapping,- and rebuilt after it was elevation profiles of tracksdestroyed in a bushfire in and the guide has been2006, and now has a tin, designed forrather than bark roof. easy navigation.However, it’s but one of All you need is yourthe genuine, original huts fourbie, a spirit ofin the new guide, which features 100 adventure, and a copy ofnew and revised tracks across all the guide. It goes on sale in Decemberregions of Australia. and costs $69.95.One you won’t find in the 420-pagevolume is Jabba the Hutt. Power PanelDescribed as a ‘bucket-list adventureguide’ and ‘your ultimate off-road EVERY modern camper, that is, thoseadventure tool,’ the publication is who have realised you don’t reallypacked with colour pictures, track need to rub two sticks together to getprofiles, items of interest en route - and blisters, have a portable fridge, freezer,it covers 19 regions of our vast land. cooker, light or whatever that needs toIf huts are not your thing, you can find be plugged in to do what it’sa load of other items of interest in say, supposed to. That usually means a spaghetti of Western 4W Driver #109 137

extension cords, for which you need to A Big Fanhave been a boy scout (or girl guide) tosort out the knots and figure whether PEOPLE like The Rolling Stones, Keithplug A goes into socket B or C. Urban or Monty Python have masses ofNow, the company that brought us the them, but mere mortals like us, who goExplorer Aluminium Storage Drawer about our business and pleasure off theSystem has come up with power beaten track will find them very useful,panels designed especially for said especially in summer.drawer system. MSA 4X4’s anodised We’re talking about fans.aluminium power panels are designed Just out, from Ironman 4x4 is anto easily fit onto the front of a set of attractive fan for your tent - and itdrawers, and they come pre-wired with doubles as an LED light. The neat two-tone jobbie will keep youangled sockets so that the plugs of cool in the summer months, blow awaywhatever accessory you’re connecting, the blowies and it has two speeds.don’t hit your fourbie’s tailgate. An It’s alsoinjection-moulded backing cover kiddie-safe,protects the rear of the switches and with softwiring from loose items stored under foam bladesthe drawer wing and other features and it will runinclude a trio of labelled, illuminated for up to 16rocker switches, spare switch covers hours in fanfor fridge and inverter, a couple of USB mode, or 40outlets, two cigarette lighter sockets, hours asan illuminated voltage gauge - and a a light.two-year guarantee. The panels cost So how do$225 and you can have a closer look at you rechargethem and get more data if you’re of a it after atechnical disposition, on MSA’s website. particularlyYou’ll probably want to have another hot nightthink about those sticks you’ve been with thecarrying around. They’ll never work, fan blowingyou know. Unless you’re a Red Indian. constantly?138 Western 4W Driver #109 There’s a USB recharging point in its tail, as well as a USB output hub.And it comes with a 60cm USB cable. It has a built-in stand so you can plonk it on a benchtop or a spare stool, or just leave it on the floor, you can use its hook to suspend it from wherever you like. How many lumens does it produce? Thought you’d never ask. 100 on bright, 50 on low setting. Looks like a good thing to have at any campsite. There you are, listening to the Stones on your transistor and having the comfort of your tent fan. Bliss.

Loud and Proud a range of channels. If communication is interrupted, all radios within theWELL, what next? group will automatically transfer toUniden has a new CB radio that will another available channel so thatlet you stay connected with your co- communication can continue.workers or whoever you’re chatting to, There’s more: It transmits and receiveseven if you end up in a river,or dam. messages from up to 80 channelsThey say their new XTRAK including police and fire frequencies.40 designed to fit into quad The CB radio case has a large LCDbikes and agricultural vehicles display and users can choose fromfor clear transmission in loud seven backlit colour options and canoutdoor environments, like change the display brightness in poormachinery. visibility. Yours for only $399.95.But it’s also an IP67-ratedwaterproof radio, so its Bunker Downapplication is virtuallyboundless. FLYING is a lot safer than driving,With 12/24 and that logic could also apply to thevoltage, it will Outback in terms of where you sleep.install in almost Up in the air is safer and more comfyany vehicle. than on the ground, the people atBuilt and Oztent Bunker say.designed to They have a point, or two.handle Australia’s The coldest I have ever been in my lifetough climate, the XTRAK 40 is was trying to kip on the ground in thealso dustproof. middle of Oz. Sheesh, it was misery,A compact design allows the radio big-time.to fit neatly into any vehicle and The Oztent Bunker lets you sleep on afeatures dual speakers in both the steel frame stretcher inside the bunker,heavy-duty speaker microphone and which is weather-protected and has all-the CB radio case, allowing the user around ventilation.to hear communications clearly while A great feature is the superfine insectoperating loud equipment.Here’s another useful thing: its instant Western 4W Driver #109 139replay function records up to threeminutes of transmission allowing youto replay the conversation in the eventof a missed communication.Smart mic technology enablesswitching between voice enhancer,instant replay, instant channel or thecall tone feature. The voice enhancerprovides four audio level settings(normal, bass, midrange and high)naturally enhancing transmissions forsuper clarity and performance.It’s also a UHF radio and scanner in oneand includes Master Scan for groups ofusers to seamlessly communicate on

mesh windows can be zipped in andout if needed - or replaced if youmanage to put a hole through one.If it’s torn, simply unzip it and zip a newone in. Simples, as the TV meerkats say.The bunkers, described as ‘the swagreinvented’ come in two sizes and twomaterials. The regular is made fromRip-Stop poly-cotton canvas and theXL is of a very heavy-duty Rip-StopPolyoxford construction, which suggests movies, have a gold tooth or threeit’s from a posh Pom university. But, - James Bond hunted a chap withforsooth, that is not the case. The term a Goldfinger and the rare metal is‘bunker’ is of either 16th century Scots virtually everywhere: medals, fancyor Scandinavian origin and was used in watches and as a global currency FortWWII for military fortifications, not that Knox is full of it, so are similar placesit helped old Adolf, who died in his. But in many a nation. And when Mr Trumptoday it’s used by the rich and famous, barks at China, the price of gold goeslike The Donald, and by campers, such up. The Chinese take him to dinner andas people like you. So, if you want to the price stabilises. For an hour or so,sleep in comfort, way above the creepy then it’s yo-yo time again. Bottom linecrawlies, an Oztent Bunker could be the is: you can’t lose with gold. Problem is:way to go. how do you get your hands on some? Answer is: get yourself a MinelabDetecting the SDC 2300. That way you can wander around and find some on the ground,Undetected in riverbeds, but not so much in the urban areas. You generally need toGOLD is wonderful stuff. go for a bit of a stroll in the OutbackVirtually every established culture to get lucky. Because the way to dohas used it as a symbol of power and it is find it on the surface or less thaninternational demand for it continues 500m undergound. If you want to doinexorably. It’s mainly (about 40per an Alan Bond and buy Kalgoorlie, orcent) used in jewellery, but also dig a huge hole by yourself, it comesin dentistry - all millionaires, well, with way too many hassles. Licences,certainly all those in the Hollywood cyanide, staff, earthmoving equipment, security. It’s all too much. The Minelab140 Western 4W Driver #109 chaps say their SDC 2300 is a compact high performance mid-range detector perfect for chasing down elusive sub- gram nuggets on land and underwater. It’s compact, light and has easy-to-use controls. and you don’t have to put it together yourself, which is another way of saying it will work just fine as it comes out of the box. It folds down to a very portable 216 x 400mm, so it’s OK as carry-on luggage or on a



backpack and extends to 1500mm when a swag in Africa, they’ll think you’reyou’re in working mode. Speaking of mad, because you’ll probably lose yourmodes, there are two: Normal (1-5 face to a hyena just as you dream ofsensitivity range) Salt (1-3 sensitivity) passionately kissing the Bachelorette,so you can go exploring straight from or find the cuddle you’re so enjoyingthe scrub to the seashore. It runs on a is actually from a python as long as aquartet of 4 C cell batteries, has nine Pilbara ore train. Try swagging in theaudio levels, a set of Koss 100 Ohm Canadian forests and, depending onheadphones and a built-in speaker. The where and when, chances are you’llwell-proven product is of military grade attract a less than sociable bear, orconstruction and designed to perform a pack of wolves. Which brings us toin the toughest conditions, yep, even Ironman 4x4’s all-new swags. They’reunder water. MPF (Multi Period Fast) different from the norm in that they’retechnology includes extremely fast sturdier, waterproof, comfortablePulse Induction switching between and they’ll keep the wildlife out. Well,Transmit (Tx) and Receive (Rx) detector maybe not the bear or the wolves.signals, thus minimal residual transmit Made of high performance seam-sealedsignal is present during the receive Ripstop canvas, with heavy duty zips,cycle, enabling clear sharp detection they offer total protection from insectsof very small gold. In other words, you via mesh and lined windows at bothcan search quickly and efficiently in ends, a waterproof PVC base linerhard-to-reach and remote places to find and a 70mm high density mattress.those elusive gold-bearing clustered So you’ll sleep like the proverbialdeposits and, as they say, live happily bambino. The swags come in single orever after. It’s pretty good fun, too. double style, they’re totally covered, feature lightweight alloy poles and theySwaggit assemble in less than 10 minutes.CAMPING or full-on living in the bush is There’s a mat, internalfine, except when the sun goesdown, you’ve had your storage pockets so you can store yourdamper for dins and it’s keys, mobile phone (which probablytime for some shut-eye. won’t work out there anyway) andYou roll out that swag your medication, and even an externalyou’ve been carting pocket for your muddy boots.around ever since Sleep tight.you inherited itfrom Burke andWills - or was itMills and Boon?- and preparefor anotherbattle. Because, asyou should know by now, the settingof the sun coincides with the risingof the mosquito, the bushrat, snake,bandicoot, coots that aren’t bandyand sundry other creatures that will,or might, cause you a tad of anxiety.And that’s just in Australia. If you use142 Western 4W Driver #109

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nvited up to Cooinda Lodge at Kakadu LONE by one of my grandsons who was working there last year, my calenderIwas too full at that time to makeit. Keen to get up there this season,I arranged a few weeks mid-year inmy schedule, only to find the youngbloke had moved on taking with himmy chance at reduced accommodationrates. In the end I booked a room forthree nights at $637, lots more thanI’d expected to pay but I felt that awell-appointed, air-conditioned retreatmight be worthwhile for an old blokeup there. Enquiries concerning a routethrough Aboriginal central desert landsbrought the news that no permits werebeing issued for travel on the SouthAustralian section of the Gunbarrel, theway I originally wanted to go. Having hadincreasing difficulties obtaining permitsin recent years, I decided (the hell withit) to go via the Eyre Highway and returnthrough the Kimberley. I also made thedecision to travel alone to allow greaterflexibility (most of my usual followerswere less than keen on my seemingfixation on bitumen and motels for thistrip anyway) and to pre-book a few keystopovers along the way due to my fearsof poor weather on the southern route.A few of my mates were worried I’d getmyself stuck somewhere so I had topromise not to go “off-track”, a promise Itried hard to keep for the most part.I also carried a borrowed sat-phonejust in case.After an easy doddle down to NorsemanI followed the Eyre Highway across tothe border, my only mistake being torefuel at Madura at $1.98/litre beforefinding that the Liberty Roadhouse atMundrabilla was 12 cents/litre cheaperas was Eucla although Border Villagewas $2.01/litre. (This was back in June,so prices would be way higher now.)I’m sure I could have checked fuelprices on the net before departure andco-ordinated fuel stops for the entiretrip a little more economically than justwinging it.144 Western 4W Driver #109

TOUR Wild Trax with Ian ElliotFlinders Range - west side. Western 4W Driver #109 145

On day four past Port Augusta and up in Block Six. I had the whole block tothrough the twisty and scenic Pichi Richi myself including the use of an enormousPass to Quorn, it was way earlier in the kitchen, dining and lounge area with aday than I’d expected. I’d intended to full-sized conference room on the secondhave lunch at Emily’s Bistro, a cafe that floor. I spent the afternoon exploringwon my heart when I’d passed through glorious Warren Gorge before Beefwith friends a few years ago and they’d Wellington at Emily’s that night toppeddone their absolute best to provide a fabulous day. Subsequent wanderingsus, not only with a magnificent late from this luxury base camp included alunch, but had shown us around their quick excursion down to Port Augustafascinating, heritage listed establishment, to replace some camping gear and re-originally the Great Northern Emporium. entering the Flinders Ranges via HorrocksI’d intended asking these friendly folk Pass, Hancocks Lookout and Wilmington.to recommend a place where I could From the latter place Alligator Gorgestay for a couple of nights this trip but, in the Mount Remarkable Nationalsince I was so early, I first popped in to Park was accessible before I returnedQuorn’s Visitor Centre in the old Railway to Quorn via the Mawson Trail throughStation. There, a young lady handed me Richman Gap. Travelling North of Quorn,a comprehensive accommodation list I was blown away by the magnificentfor Quorn. When I asked if Emily’s Bistro stone ruins of Kanyaka Station. As ifwas still going, she assured me that the 1850s homestead with its extensivethe Brown family not only continued to outbuildings and cemetery isn’t enough,operate the bistro but had also branched over the hill you find the remains ofout by building a spacious conference the station’s vast shearing shed andcentre next door with units and rooms men’s quarters. Glorious views wereattached. This imposing suite of everywhere when I detoured out to Blackbuildings, known as the Great Northern Gap on the Heysen Trail just South ofLodge, was opened in November 2017. Wilpena Pound, then, continuing up theAfter renewing acquaintances with the West side of the Flinders Ranges, thereBrowns and lunching at Emily’s Bistro, was more fantastic scenery on the wayI booked a room in the Great Northern in to Blinman via Parachilna Gorge. MyLodge finding that, for $110 per night, stay at the Blinman Pub correspondedI had an en-suite room, one of nine with the Chef’s pizza night. He does theKanyaka Homestead ruins.

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