The Malay House at 41 Chow Kit Road

THE MALAY HOUSE AT 41CHOW KIT ROAD RELOCATED TO THE NATIONAL ART GALLERY OF KUALA LUMPUR Compiled by Ar. Azim Abdul Aziz THE CHOW KIT MALAY HOUSE 1

THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 1

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Copyright © 2019 ATSA Architects Photography Asst. Prof. Dr. Nurul Hamiruddin Salleh Published by Azahari Salleh ATSA Architects Sdn Bhd Esqandar Zulqarnain Fatulrahman Ghazali All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be James Chong reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, J.Redza ARTS in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, Mohamad Haziq Zulkifli photocopying, recording or otherwise, without either the Nora Salleh Family Archives prior written permission of the Publisher or the copyright Nurul Hamiruddin Salleh owner. Then Ket Jun Disclaimers Jabatan Warisan Negara The information and arguments presented in this book Puan Normah binti Majawali’s collection have been assembled, derived and developed from Persatuan Rumah Chow Kit various sources, including textbooks, academic papers, news media, reports, standards, guidelines, professional Cover firms, and the Internet. These are presented in good faith. The cover design is a photograph of the newly completed The author and publisher have made every reasonable Chow Kit Malay House on new site at the National Art effort to ensure that information presented is accurate. Gallery, Kuala Lumpur. The photograph is taken by It is the responsibility of all users to utilise professional Esqandar Zulqarnain and edited by Nik Nur Akmarina judgment, experience and common sense when applying Nik Anua of ATSA Architects. the information presented in this book. This responsibility extends to the verification of local codes, standards and Printed and bound in Malaysia climate data. Every effort has been made to ensure that intellectual property rights are rightfully acknowledged. Omissions or errors, if any, are unintended. Where the publisher or author is notified of an omission or error, these will be corrected in subsequent editions. Publisher ATSA Architects Sdn Bhd 45 Jalan Tun Mohd Fuad 3 Taman Tun Dr Ismail 60000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Website www.atsa.com.my Compiled by and Edited by Azim A Aziz Co-Editors Esqandar Zulqarnain Mohamad Haziq Zulkifli Layout Design Nik Nur Akmarina Nik Anua 3D Images Abdul Mun’im Bin Abdul Rahim THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 3

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This book is dedicated to Puan Normah binti Majawali, the last proud owner of the Malay house at No. 41, Chow Kit Road, who peacefully passed away on 11th July 2019, at the age of 87 years. She was born on 19th May 1932 and was survived by a daughter, a son-in-law and two grandchildren. She was the granddaughter of Sutan Mangatas, the nephew of Sutan Puasa, the founder of Kuala Lumpur. Al-Fatihah. THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 5

Contents 6 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

1 2 3 #pg 9 #pg 13 #pg 27 MIGRATION MAP OF BRIEF HISTORY OF KUALA INTRODUCTION OF NO 41, MANDAILING DIASPORA IN LUMPUR AND CHOW KIT CHOW KIT ROAD MALAY MALAYSIA ROAD HOUSE 4 5 6 #pg 35 #pg 59 #pg 73 OWNERSHIP & HISTORICAL SUTAN MANGATAS, THE ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES BACKGROUND OF NO 41, PROUD HOUSE OWNER OF NO.41, CHOW KIT ROAD CHOW KIT ROAD MALAY MALAY HOUSE HOUSE 8 #pg 125 9 7 SUTAN PUASA, THE #pg 135 #pg 87 FOUNDER OF KUALA ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS C O N SE RVAT IO N A N D LUMPUR (1822 - 1908) RECONSTRUCTION OF NO.41, CHOW KIT R O A D MALAY HOUSE AT THE NATIONAL ART GALLERY KUALA LUMPUR THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 7

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MIGRATION MAP OF MANDAILING DIASPORA IN MALAYSIA THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 9

From Sibolga via Aceh Perlis Langkawi Banda Aceh Pulau Pinang Aceh Medan Ka North Indian Sumatra Straits of Malac Ocean Tanjung Balai LBaoktae Labuhan B Tapanuli To Penang Sibolga sidePmapduaanng Gunung Tua Padang Lawas MaLnodwaeilring MaUnpdpaeilring Rawa Natal Migration of the Mandailing people to Malaya 10 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

Thailand South Kedah China Sea Perak Kelantan Terengganu Ipoh Kampung Gunung Meusah Peninsula Malaysia Papan Gopeng ampung Kampung Chulek Gajah Siputeh Kampung Rawa ATneslounk Bagan Pahang Datoh Selangor Gombak Raub cca Kampung Baru Kuala Lumpur Hulu Langat Port Klang Jelebu Negeri Sembilan Bilek Lukut Melaka Johor s Dumai Singapore Riau West Barisan Mountain Jambi Sumatra Sumatra Padang THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 11

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BRIEF HISTORY OF KUALA LUMPUR AND CHOW KIT ROAD THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 13

KUALA LUMPUR FROM 1895 TO 1974 TAMAN BATU VIEW TAMAN TAMAN BERINGIN BUNGA RAYA TAMAN KG. WIRA WAHYU JAYA KEPONG JINJANG SENTUL DANAU BARU UTARA KOTA WANGSA KEPONG MAJU JINJANG KG.BATU TAMAN TAMAN SELATAN IMPIAN KG. BANDAR SERI DALAM TAMAN KEPONG SEGAMBUT P RAMLEE BARU TAMAN TAMBAHAN KG.PUAH CITY 1974 SEGAMBUT TAMAN SEGAMBUT TAMAN KAYA SETAPAK 1954 JAYA SEJAHTERA JAYA 1924 1895 TAMAN TAMAN SEGAMBUT AYER PANAS TAMAN SENTUL MILLION WEST KAMPUNG SENTUL TITIWANGSA KASIPILLAY SELATAN PEKELILING BUKIT TAMAN PULAPOL LANJAN TUNKU KG. SG.’P BUKIT HOSPITAL KG DATUK ENCHALA TUNKU KUALA LUMPUR KERAMAT TAMAN TAMAN DUTA CHOW KG. BARU AMPANG TUN KIT HILIR DR ISMAIL TAMAN BUKIT SRI HARTAMAS GEYLON BUKIT BUKIT BINTANG DAMANSARA CITY IMBI CENTRE MEDAN BUKIT KG KG. DAMANSARA BANDARAYA ATAP PANDAN BUKIT BUKIT PETALING PUDU PERSEKUTUAN UNIVERSITI TAMAN BANGSAR MALAYA LUCKY BRICKFIELDS TAMAN TAMAN TAMAN SEPUTEH BUKIT PUDU ULU TAMAN SEPUTEH BILLION PANTAI KG.PANTAI SALAK DALAM SELATAN BANDAR SRI TAMAN PERMAISURI SUPREME KUCHAI LAMA TAMAN BANDAR SUNGAI BESI TUN RAZAK CHERAS SALAK BANDAR TAMAN SELATAN TUN RAZAK CONNAUGHT PUCHONG BANDAR TASIK SELATAN BANDAR BARU PEKAN ALAM SRI PETALING SG. BESI DAMAI SG. BESI BUKIT JALIL KINRARA MAS Evolution of Kuala Lumpur boundary from 1874 to 1974 14 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

MAP OF CHOW KIT ROAD AND DOWNTOWN OF KUALA LUMPUR Sungai Gombak Jalan Chow Kit Jalan Batu Jalan Ampang Sungai Klang THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 15

KUALA LUMPUR MAP (CIRCA 1895) 16 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

KUALA LUMPUR MAP (CIRCA 1920) CHOW KIT THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 17

KUALA LUMPUR MAP (CIRCA 1930) CHOW KIT 18 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

KUALA LUMPUR MAP (CIRCA 1962) CHOW KIT THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 19

CHOW KIT ROAD Jalan Raja Laut FPeadnegrgaul ng CShteoswenKMit onorel Kecil Panggung Capital Surau AL-Hijrah Jalan Chow kit Jalan Raja Laut Jalan Ipoh Kecil Lorong Hj Taib 5Lorong Hj Taib 3 Shell Lorong Hj Taib 4 STionkg oGnhgoCnhgong Jalan ThamboosamyJalanRajaLautKecilPanggung Jalan Susur STiongkoGnhgoCnghongFederal Stesen 2018 Lorong Hj Taib 3 Lorong Hj Taib 4Panggung CapitalMonorel Chow Kit Jalan Putra SAuLr-aHuijrah Masjid Jalan Chow kit Pakistan Stesen Hotel City Jalan Haji Hussein 1 LRT Villa PWTC HBroistedlale Kuil Jalan Raja Laut Hindu Lorong Hj Taib 5 Jalan Tiong Nam 4 Lorong Hj Taib Kuil Sikh Lorong Tiong Nam 3 Balai Polis Chow Kit Tatt Khalsa Plaza Safuan Menara Jalan Sri Amar Udani Centara Carpets Pejabat Pos Wisma MFA Cinema Stesen Monorel Jalan Raja Laut Kecil Federal Chow Kit Capital Cinema Surau Al-Hijrah Jalan Chow kit Jalan Raja Laut Lorong Hj Taib 5 Lorong Hj Taib 3 Lorong Hj Taib 4 Tokong Chong Sing Ghong Illustration of former location of Chow Kit Malay house and its vicinity area 20 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

1 2 34 5 6 7 Jalan Batu (Batu Road) 1 = Field of Penuel High School 11 10 Jalan Chow kit 2 = A Chinese-owned land, planted with fruit tress 8 as an orchard 9 3 = Hj Talib’s (Sultan Mangatas son) 7 4 = Hj Wahid’s (Sultan Mangatas son) 5 = Modern shop house Layout map of Chow kit Road 1920s 6 = Squatters’ area 7 = A neo-classical shophouse 8 = Modern bungalow belonged to a wealthy malay man 9 = Vacant land 10 = House of Kadir Hj Hussein 11 = Land and house belonged to Hajah Bedah (Sultan Mangatas wife), a location for free screening of Chinese public movies 12 = House of Pak Ders 1 2 3 45 6 Jalan Batu (Batu Road) 7 11 10 Jalan Chow kit 8 12 9 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 21 Illustration of Chow Kit Road in 1920s

1 2 34 6 78 9 10 Jalan Batu (Batu Road) During World War Two 16 15 5 11 1 = Chinese squatters’ area (During Japanese occupation) Jalan Chow kit 2 = Federal and Capital cinemas (Former field of Penuel 13 High School) 3 = Art-Modern shophouse 14 12 4 = Wooden shophouse (Former fruit orchard belonged to Sutan Mangatas) Layout map of Chow Kit Road in 1940s 5 = Former Haji Talib’s house (Sutan Mangatas’ son) 6 = Hj Wahid house (Sutan Mengatas’ son) 7 = A neo-classical shophouse 8 = An art modernist shophouse (Former Malay squatteers area) 9 = A neo-classical shophouse 10 = Shophouse lot 11 = Shophouse - a shoe shop (Former Malay bungalow house) 12 = Shophouse - a coffee house 13 = Vacant land (Site of temporary stall) 14 = Brothel 15 = A chinese man’s house (Former Kadir Hj Hussein’s house) 16 = Wooden shophouse (Former Hajjah Bedah’s land - moved to Kg. Baru) 1 2 34 56 78 9 Jalan Batu (Batu Road) 16 15 12 Jalan Chow kit 10 11 13 14 Illustration of Chow Kit Road in 1940s 22 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

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Elevation of (North Facing) Chow Kit Road Elevation of (South Facing) Chow Kit Road THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 25

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INTRODUCTION OF, NO 41, CHOW KIT ROAD MALAY HOUSE THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 27

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JALAN RAJA LAUT NO 41, CHOW KIT ROAD MALAY HOUSE Location of the house The Malay house at Chow Kit Road was the last JALAN CHOW KIT remaining Malay traditional house which once LENGKOK RAJA LAUT stood at No 41 Chow Kit Road. The house was built in the year 1926 by Sutan Mangatas, the JALAN IPOH nephew of Sutan Puasa, the founder of Kuala Lumpur. The Malay house, was made of timber JALAN PAHANG and was raised nine feet above the ground.  The supporting piers were built using local fired clay JALAN TUANKU ABD. RAHMAN bricks and plaster. The floor area of the main house measures approximately 120 square metres (1200 square feet) and was built using solid timber for its column, beam and walls.  The architecture of the house is clearly shown and identified with the Perakian (State of Perak) roof form (Bumbung Limas Belanda) which is very much different from the Mandailing traditional architecture found in Western Sumatra, which has a similar roof form with the Minang architectural influence. However, the influence of traditional Mandailing architecture is absent here. We can only assumed that the architecture of the house was chosen because of its simplicity. The house is elevated from the ground (higher than usual) following the prevalent vernacular architecture of the time that allows for natural cross ventilation to cool the house and security. The house was once dubbed “Rumah Degil” by a documentary producer, who made a short documentary clip about the house and its occupant. The house stood against all odds and the owners resisted all temptations to sell the house during the period of rapid urbanisation of Kuala Lumpur, which started after the THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 29

second world war and after Malaya gained its independence in 1957.  Due to economic and rising maintenance cost contributed by rapid growth and economic needs around the area, the last owners which were also descendants of Sutan Mangatas, sold the narrow lot where the house once stood to a buyer who wants to develop the lot into a multi- storey building. The house was subsequently taken down but was put in storage while waiting for a new site and a buyer/funder to preserve its historical and architectural significance. In April of 2018, the Department of National Heritage, through the Ministry of Tourism Arts & Culture purchased the remnants of the dismantled house to have this historical house restored to its former glory. 30 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

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Photograph of Chow Kit Malay House when it was completed in 1926 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 33

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OWNERSHIP& HISTORICAL BACKGROUND OF NO 41, CHOW KIT ROAD MALAY HOUSE THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 35

SAVING THE house was produced in 2007. The name was STUBBORN HOUSE coined because the subsequent owners who had - “RUMAH DEGIL” inherited the house had several times refused to sell the rectangular lot and give in to the The Malay House at No 41 Jalan Chow Kit, developers who were just interested to build, Kuala Lumpur plain modern multi-storey shop/office buildings and thus changed the character of the area. Source: Excerpt from various local media outlets on the conservation Unfortunately and sadly, the house had to be effort of Malay house at No.41, Chow Kit Road sold in 2013, and the plot of land on which the timber house once stood was dismantled in early A 93-year old Malay house at 41, Chow Kit 2015 to make way for a proposed modern multi- Road, Kuala Lumpur was given a new breath storey building. of life at the National Art Gallery of Kuala Lumpur. The last direct descended who lived in the house was Normah Majawali, who was born in 1932, The original proud builder cum owner of the The house is no longer standing on its original house, Sutan Mangatas @ Haji Jaafar would not site, but there was a chance for it to be rebuilt and have imagined that the house he built in 1926 preserved as a heritage object of the Mandailing had created such an interest that drove a group of people and its influence to the early history of people to save his house from being completely the city of Kuala Lumpur. To preserve the house demolished in order to keep the heritage house it needed funds and a new location in Kuala in Kuala Lumpur from disappearing. By the Lumpur for it to be preserved in perpetuity. 1980s the lot and house was sandwiched between The idea was to preserve the historic house as tall concrete shop offices which once had houses a museum that will be visited by both tourists of smililar size as its neighbour. Over the years, and locals, and for many to learn how the early since the house was completed in 1926, rapid settlers lived in Kuala Lumpur and it could also development of the city had claimed this area help narrate its colourful history. to be part of the city, which was once on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur. In the 1920s, Chow Architect KC Tan, the architect for the new Kit Road was just merely a village located just development, had the presence of mind and the outside the bustling city centre, which was first quick thinking to spare the house from being established by the Mandailing people, who had totally demolished by the bulldozers in one migrated from Western Sumatra, and made it sweep, after it was sold. The original plan was to their settlement area. just demolished the house and sell the remnants as used timber, thus disregarding the house’s The house came to be called the Chow Kit historical significance to the area, and build a Heritage House (Rumah Pusaka Chow Kit) multi-strorey building on the site. and was also dubbed as the “Stubborn House” (Rumah Degil) after a documentary about the As it turned out to be, the house had some historical significance and instead of demolishing the house, Ar. KC Tan worked together with the new owners of the house and the contractor to carefully dismantle the house, in hope to preserve 36 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

the last remaining timber Malay house of Chow In 2015, the Architect KC Tan appointed by Kit Road and have it rebuilt somewhere, in the the new owners, managed to convince the new city of Kuala Lumpur with the support of others. owner and the contractor to dismantle the house So, an idea was born and a mission began to find systematically for it to be easily reinstall in the out who, where and how to save the “Stubborn future. The contractor graciously agreed to do house” from being totally erased from the history so without charge, and they all pitched in for the of Kuala Lumpur . rental cost to store the dismantled timber. Window to KL’s past When the time came to begin the dismantling the raised timber house, Tan took his own time “When I first saw the house, I thought, what to painstakingly label every single part of the a waste to just tear down such a unique Malay house which is mostly made of timber and kept timber house which was built during the 1920s. a detailed record of the entire house. There are not very many of such houses left in Kuala Lumpur. “Honestly, it is unusual for architects to disassemble a building and tag the parts for “There must be something we all could do to future rebuilding”. preserve it for people to see and experience it in the future,” said Architect KC Tan. He managed “We had to figure out the technical aspects to rope in his cousin, James Chong to strategize ourselves. It was very time consuming.” and plan a solution to save the house. “Our conservation specialist estimated that 85% Later, they were joined by Fatulrahman. Fatul of the original materials that made the house was the man behind the 11-minutes video that could be reused once it is ready to be rebuilt”. explored the story of the last inhabitant of the house, Normah Majawali, also known as Nenek “With the right care, the house can be rebuilt to Normah. She was born in the house in 1932, last for another century easily,” he said”. and had stayed there until September 2009. The team worked hard using the digital and “We had a look at the house, and it was not existing conventional media to create public just your typical traditional, grand old building, awareness. The team researched the background but it had a certain understated charm”. For it of the house to disseminate the history of the to survive there and had lasted for such a long house to the general public. Most importantly, time, defying all temptation and resisting the the exercise was also to secure a right investor in rapid urbanization of Kuala Lumpur, to remain order to preserve the house as a historical object without being turned into another brick building for many to experience. took a lot of restraint,” James Chong explains. The historical records on the house and general Soon, three more experts from related fields information on the early years of Kuala Lumpur who came on board, and a small group of were thin or impossible to find, but the group heritage loving people form a group to save later discovered that the house was actually the “Stubborn House”. They were the original linked to one of Kuala Lumpur’s earliest settler initiators who formed a voluntary team to save an and business leader, Sutan Puasa, a Mandailing original Malay house of Chow Kit Road. migrant who had migrated to the Peninsular THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 37

Malaya in the early 1800s. Sutan Puasa, was However, the search for an investor to rebuild acknowledged as the founder of Kuala Lumpur the house surprisingly took far too long. There He opened up large tracts of land in Kuala were no immediate takers to grab this “one in Lumpur, during the early years of c1830’s. life time opportunity” in saving and rebuilding the heritage house. It was almost an unfortunate In his book, a prominent Malaysian historian affair if the team had failed and on that time it and author, Abdur-Razzaq Lubis had said that was fast becoming a missed opportunity. Sutan Puasa was from the Mandailing country situated in Western Sumatera, in a province The cost to store the remnants of the house called Mandailing-Natal Regency in Indonesia. rose over the two years, and the team finally Sutan Puasa had settled in Kuala Lumpur in the gave themselves a deadline – if nothing were to late or middle 1830s in search of a better life for be done by the end of June 2017, all efforts to his clan and to venture into Tin mining. Tin was restore the house would have to cease. a well sought after commodity in the c1800s from areas outside Kuala Lumpur. There were a lot As the years passed by, and the team had yet to of tin in Kuala Lumpur, Selangor and Perak. It receive any funds and a suitable place for the drew many migrants from outside Malaya to find house to be re-located. The contractor could only tin and turn it into riches. Tin can bring great hold on to the remnants in a rented warehouse wealth by just mining and selling it to traders. until June of 2017, before they will have no other choice, but to sell all of the remnants as used Coincidentally, the very house was built by timber to recoup some of their storage costs. his nephew, Sutan Mangatas. In 1830s, Sutan Mangatas had travelled with him with a group “We had been trying to sell parts of the house of Mandailing people who wanted to migrate to for two years, and the escalating cost was making Malaya, for better living prospect rather than and things difficult. We decided to give it one last staying living in Sumatra. chance and put up posts on the social media to spread awareness on saving the house, and other Sutan Puasa was also a nobleman from Kota concerns the group was facing. The campaign Nopan in Tobang, Mandailing Julu, in Western was successful in obtaining some press attention Sumatra. but no buyers. Four generations of Sutan Mangatas’s family Another major concern was also the location managed to live in the house, and was passed where the house is to be located, which will lose on from one generation to another for over 90 part of its uniqueness and charm when it was years. He was the son of Raja Iro Koling Sutan removed from the original site. The house was Naga. previously sandwiched between tall modern shop office structures along Chow Kit Road, which In storage were built in the 70s, 80s and the subsequent years. Once the painstaking effort to label parts of the loose timber and other components were done, It was the only Malay house that had remained the remnants were safely transported and stored on the street before it was dismantled. The in an undisclosed warehouse, with the rent team however, was still hoping for a suitable generously footed by the kind contractor. location that can bring back some of its original 38 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

characteristics of a Malay house that was built in Renewed appeal the city. On 19th February 2017, to expedite the matter Although, the house is steeped in Malay- and not to prolong their aim, the team made a Mandailing-Perakian architecture, the house “now-or-never” plea on their Facebook page, isn’t too distinct from other Malay abodes, and and the interest was again reignited. Suddenly, that was why it was not yet to be granted the there were a few genuine interests. coveted heritage status. The plea message reached more than 15,000 The team also hoped that once the house is people, and Fatulrahman’s fly through rebuilt, it will be turned into a museum detailing documentary video garnered more than 10,000 the history of this particular part of Kuala views on the internet. Lumpur or showcasing some of the artefacts of the past where the original inhabitants were The team was inundated by messages of support using throughout the years, while it was used as a from the public and had several enquiries to house for the family. purchase the remnants. Visitors to the heritage house will be able to Arrangements were made to meet with some admire not a the typical vernacular Malay house governmental and non-governmental authorities, and its architecture that was once built on the and the team hopes that the house can be outskirt of Kuala Lumpur, but also to learn on somehow incorporated into the KL’s River of how the city had evolved through the display of Life project which was ongoing. the artefacts and photos that can be placed in each of its room. “We need to know where we come from, only then can we trully love the land we built and “The family has given their blessings, and they live on,” said Chong. “Most city folk will not will be happy to loan us some of their household appreciate the long journey undertaken by the items if the house is up again,” Chong said. city unless we see for themselves what it was like back then”. “That is why we need this house so He also made it clear that the team will only be that we know how we came about,” he added. a temporary caretaker of the dismantled house, and that this was just their suggestion and would But what if it still doesn’t work out? not be imposing restrictions on an investor regarding what to do with the “Rumah Degil”. “Then, I guess, that is just how it is meant to be. We would have given our best shot and reached As the deadline to sell the remnants of the out to Malaysians to spread the word. “But I house drew closer, and if there were no takers believe, if all of us can do a small part, the house come June 2017, the team was willing to accept can be saved,” Chong said. requests from outside Kuala Lumpur who were able to rebuild the house. Fatulrahman, on the other hand, could not hide his disappointment. “To me, that would Failing that strategy, the timber parts of the be very sad. I saw the house and was in there house would have been sold off as used building interviewing nenek; I feel so strongly that this materials. house is something special.” THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 39

“Hopefully, we will have the chance to bring it and also the City Hall of Kuala Lumpur (DBKL). back. Otherwise, I guess the fly through video is all that would be left,” he said. It was not until September of 2017 that JWN No 41, Chow Kit Road was where Rumah Degil had agreed to purchase the remnants of the once stood, but Rumah Degil is not gone. Not house with the intention to rebuilt it as soon yet, at least at that particular time. as possible. As they were the purchaser of the remnants of the house, it could only be rebuild at There must be a reason why the house has been their premises which includes agencies under the so “stubborn” and refused to go gently into the Ministry of Tourism, Art and Culture (MoTAC) abyss. The grounds of The National Art Gallery (BSN) along Tun Razak Road was chosen as Rumah Degil has hung on for decades despite all it is strategically placed near the main entrance the odds, but time was almost running out. of gallery’s compound that can symbolically be the welcoming structure to greet visitors to the Roles of Saroha Society and ATSA Architects gallery. It is also visible from Jalan Tun Abdul Razak, the main circular road of Kuala Lumpur. Despite the efforts to find a suitable buyer by mid 2018, was looking bleak, there were many offers Fruitful relocation to rebuild the house, including one from Penang, but that would have defeated the purpose of Although, the ending of this story at this point preserving the house here as this house is part is a happy one, it was not always the easiest of the heritage of Kuala Lumpur and it belongs journey. To the team, the outcome seemed to Kuala Lumpur. There was also an interested pretty bleak in the early stages, but their intention party to purchase the house and rebuild the of preserving one of the remaining pieces of the house in Gopeng, Perak, a village built by the city’s culture and heritage was strong despite Mandailing and Rawa people in the 1800’s. facing the seemingly never ending roadblocks. “Persistence pays,” Tan smiles. “When you Not known to many at the time, Saroha Malaysia have a strong desire to get it right, you have to be is a Mandailing organisation under the guidance stubborn enough – like the house itself – to do of Dato Baharom started an initiative to raise the what it takes, and you have to be resourceful to issue within the government to try to put foward make it happen”. an awareness on the importance of the house and at the same time sought funds to restore the The house is now in its initial stages of being house. Dato Shahlan Ismail was also involved rebuilt and is slated for completion at the end together with another architectural practice, of 2018. Work at this particular time will start ATSA Architects to chipped their efforts by soon, headed by JWN. A committee was set up officially writing to a few government agencies to to oversee the rebuilding of the house. A tender take up the task to restore the house. was called to select a reputable contractor to carry out the rebuilding of the house on an area Apart from the Department of National next to the National Art Gallery. Heritage (JWN), ATSA Architects had also tried to convince KL Tower to place the house at The restoration work started by the selected Bukit Nanas, which was previously a Mandailing contractor Seroja Klasik Sdn. Bhd. who were stronghold in the early years of Kuala Lumpur appointed as the main contractor at the cost of 40 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

RM 361,623.24 on 6th February 2018. As the shot. Often, we hope somebody else would do particular area had been used display area of it but, sometimes we realise, maybe we are that traditional wooden sculptures or keliring from someone else. Sarawak, as an outdoor display. The display had to be moved first to another area within the “So we did it. We did not have the money, but gallery grounds before the foundation of the we have our areas of expertise and a bit of time. house can be put in place. Once it was moved, We didn’t do it expecting financial gain, fame or the construction to erect the house began. recognition – we did it because we believe what the house should be preserved and shared with The ground to rebuild the house was broken on others. March 2018 to rebuild the house for the second time in 91 years. The first stage was to put in place the structural foundation to carry the weight of the concrete piers similar to the original piers which were demolished at the site as it could not be taken away. A conservator from the International Islamic University Malaysia (IIUM), Asst. Prof. Dr. Nurul Hamiruddin Salleh was also appointed to oversee the conservation works and advise the contractor in the areas of conservation which were to be carried out according to JWN guidelines. The house relocation and restoration works was completed in early January 2019. Legacy flourishes The collaborative and joint efforts by many people in saving the Chow Kit Malay House were done largely to create awareness for future generation of KL citizens, Malaysian and tourists on the early Malay architecture of Kuala Lumpur, and for them to learn more on the rich history of Kuala Lumpur. “We all love the house – what it represents, rather than what it looks like. It is the embodiment of a few things – our city’s past, how our forefathers lived, and most importantly, the spirit of defiance to exist regardless of the pressure to just erased and take the easy path to let the house disappear from the history of Kuala Lumpur. We wanted to know, at the end of the day, if things didn’t work out, at least we gave it our best THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 41

TEAM MEETING AT KC TAN ARCHITECT’S OFFICE Team meeting on the proposed conservation methods to be used. (Source: James Chong) Ar. KC Tan working on the design proposal on a new site. (Source: James Chong) The completed measured drawings. (Source: James Chong) 42 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

DISCUSSION WITH PROJECT STAKEHOLDERS A team member posing with one of the project stakeholders. (Source: James Chong) Minutes of meeting with the project stakeholders, detailed write up and drawings in the Architect’s note book. (Source: James Chong) THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 43

DISMANTLING PROGRESS OF THE MALAY HOUSE Man working to dismantle the roof structure. (Source: Then Ket Jun) Taking down one of the roof trusses. (Source: Then Ket Jun) View from the ground floor during the dismantling process. (Source: Then Ket Jun) View from Chow Kit Road, the house is being carefully dismantled for storage. (Source: Then Ket Jun) 44 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

DISMANTLING PROGRESS OF THE MALAY HOUSE View from the house down the steps to the kitchen house, located Former door of the kitchen house. (Source: Then Ket Jun) separately from the main house. (Source: Then Ket Jun) Lattice and timber panels of the kitchen house. (Source: Then Ket Jun) THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 45

SITE VISIT AFTER THE DISMANTLING STAGE Some of the dismantled components on site. (Source: James Chong) The dismantled roof trusses. (Source: James Chong) View of the site after the dismantling, to the left and right of the site are the brick supporting columns after the timber components were removed. (Source: James Chong) Ar. KC Tan with Fatulrahman Ghazali on the original site, next to the roof trusses which already taken down and ready for storage. (Source: James Chong) 46 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

SITE VISIT AFTER THE DISMANTLING STAGE The staircase before it was dismantled. (Source: Then Ket Jun) View towards the kitchen house from upper floor. (Source: Then Ket Jun) View through the window over-looking the Chow Kit Road. (Source: The view of the anjung, taken before the house was dismantled. Then Ket Jun) (Source: Then Ket Jun) THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 47

VISIT BY DR GWYNN Consultative meeting with Dr Gwynn Jenkins. (Source: James Chong) Building conservationist assessing the current conditions of the house via the compiled photograph. (Source: James Chong) Some of the roof timber trusses and wall structural components that were dismantled and stored on site before putting the components into storage. (Source: James Chong) 48 THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD

PHOTOS OF NENEK NORMAH AND HER FAMILY THROUGHOUT THE YEARS Nenek Normah was featured in the documentary produced by Fatulrahman in 2007. (Source: Fatulrahman Ghazali (Screenshot from Rumah Degil Video) Wedding ceremonies taken place at the house. (Source: Nora Salleh Photo of Nenek Normah taken in her 20s. (Source: Nora Salleh Family Family Archives) Archives) Family photo taken in living area at the ground floor, taken in the 70s. (Source: Nora Salleh Family Archives) THE MALAY HOUSE OF CHOW KIT ROAD 49