The Cook's Book of Ingredients

MALLARD | OTHER WILD DUCK | 149 dark and far leaner than domestic 2 STORE Keep, wrapped, in the FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, ducks, with a richer flavour that varies fridge for up to 3 days, or freeze, ginger, garlic, mushrooms, onion, according to fat cover and diet. tightly wrapped, for up to 9 months. swede, coriander, parsley, apples, 1 BUY Mallard are usually sold whole, 3 EAT Fry or grill mallard breasts to bitter orange, cherries, redcurrants, oven-ready, or as pairs of breasts. They medium rare; slice thinly to serve. cider, red wine, soy sauce. are available fresh in the winter and Roast whole birds quickly if young; CLASSIC RECIPES Canard sauvage sold frozen at other times. Allow 1–2 braise or stew older birds. Sometimes à la bigarade; braised duck in onion breasts per person or 1 mallard for the legs are stewed separately and sauce; pressed wild duck. 2 people. served with the roasted breasts. Mallard breast Mallard breasts are far smaller and leaner than domestic duck breasts, weighing only about 115–140g (4–5oz) each. If there is bruising, look for pellets embedded in the flesh. If the skin has no fat and is of poor quality, remove it before cooking. Mallard Many mallard are lured into ponds with grain, and eating this can make their fat quite yellow. Whiter fat usually indicates a more varied diet. wrapped, in the fridge for up to until slightly pink. Braise or stew CLASSIC RECIPES Stir-fried duck 3 days, or freeze, tightly wrapped, older birds and the legs. breasts; salmi of duck; roast duck for up to 9 months. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, with morello cherries. 3 EAT Cooked: Fry or grill duck ginger, garlic, mushrooms, onion, breasts to pink and slice thinly to coriander, parsley, apples, bitter serve; cut into strips and stir-fry; or orange, cherries, redcurrants, warm part-roasted breasts in a sauce. cider, Worcestershire sauce, Roast young, whole birds quickly sherry, soy sauce. Teal One of the smallest wild ducks, teal barely makes one portion but its flavour is superb. A fine covering of fat The fat on a wild duck varies is a bonus that aids from pale white to yellow, the cooking. depending on diet. Widgeon Like many of the smaller species of wild duck, the supply of widgeon can be less predictable than mallard.

1 5 0 | M E AT | O F FA L OFFAL ESSENTIALS Offal, often known as “variety meats” or “organ meats”, comprises BUY a collection of animal parts, of which some are organs (liver, kidney, heart, sweetbreads, etc.), some are extremities (head, feet, tails, You can buy some of the most popular types of offal in supermarkets, etc.), and others are off-cuts from the main carcass (bones, fat, but for the best variety and quality, make friends with your butcher. membranes, etc.). The world of offal includes the firm bite of Purchase only clean-looking offal that smells fresh with no strong odour. kidneys, the gelatinous silkiness of oxtail, the creaminess of brains, and the crunchiness of cartilage – while the fuzzy texture of tripe STORE is unlike that any other meat. Intestines and stomachs are put to use as casings for sausages, salamis, and puddings. Most offal is rich in Generally, organ meat has a much shorter shelf life than other cuts of nutrients and essential fatty acids, and low in fat. meat and should be cooked or frozen immediately after purchase. PREPARE Many kinds of offal require thorough preparation, whether by washing, PREPARE CALF’S LIVER Slices of this large piece of offal are removing hair, membranes, or extraneous blood vessels, or, in some cases, considered a delicacy in restaurants. Calf’s liver is perfect for frying salting. You can ask your butcher to do this, or buy them ready-prepared. because it will cook very quickly over a high heat. PREPARE KIDNEYS FOR FRYING If you buy a whole, unprepared kidney, you need to remove the suet casing before chopping. 1 Pull away and discard the fat (suet) that is 2 With the kidney upside down, cut around the Prepare the liver by first trimming it of any membranes and arteries, and encasing the kidneys, then rinse them in cold fatty core and pull it away – this will release the discard. Cut the liver into even, thick slices using a large, sharp knife. water. Pat the kidneys dry using kitchen paper. membrane that covers the kidney. 3 Discard the core and peel off the membrane 4 Cut into bite-sized pieces according to COOK covering the kidney. Discard. Trim away any bits the kidney’s natural divisions, then cut off the Many delicious traditional dishes are made from combinations of offal, sometimes from different animals. Some types of offal are viewed as a of membrane that are still attached. fatty cores from each piece. delicacy, either because of their superior flavour or because a carcass yields so little of a particular cut. One such is foie gras, the fattened liver of duck and geese, which is one of the world’s most refined and expensive foods. With a few exceptions (such as raw liver), offal is cooked thoroughly, either by gentle simmering or slow stewing. However, in recent years cuts that were once traditionally stewed or baked (such as heart) are now enjoyed quickly fried and served pink, rather like steak. PREPARE CHICKEN LIVER These livers need cleaning and any bits of sinew or membrane removed before frying. Rinse the livers in cold, running water Chicken liver then pick over them before you start should be fried quickly cleaning them to identify any green (about 2 minutes) in patches, membranes, and fibres. a pan of very hot oil. Cut these away carefully using a sharp They are done when knife, and discard. Pat the livers dry brown on the outside with a piece of kitchen paper. and pink in the centre.

M E AT LI V E R | P OULTRY LIVER | 1 5 1 MEAT LIVER sweeten it. Remove any large tubes, The liver from CLASSIC RECIPE which toughen on cooking. Sauté, grill, a lamb should Liver is probably the most popular of or braise calf’s, lamb’s, and venison be a deep, rich FEGATO ALLA all the meat offal cuts. Delicate and livers; braise pig’s and beef livers, or red colour. VENEZIANA mild calf’s (veal) and lamb’s livers are stuff and roast. Use for pâtés. generally more sought after than the FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, Here is a Venetian favourite: tender more strongly flavoured pig’s and beef cream, onions, garlic, thyme, calf’s liver with a vinegar-enhanced, (ox) livers. Venison liver, although dark parsley, lemon, raisins, brandy, melting onion sauce. in colour, is very sweet and tender. soy sauce, wine vinegar. 1 BUY Widely available from CLASSIC RECIPES Fegato SERVES 4 butchers, farmers’ markets, and alla veneziana; lamb’s liver supermarkets, liver is usually sold sliced. and bacon; liver pâté. 4 tbsp olive oil Calf’s and lamb’s liver is paler than beef 100g (31⁄2oz) butter or pig’s liver. All liver should smell fresh Lamb’s liver and sweet. For Jewish cuisine, liver is With its mild flavour 300g (10oz) onions, very finely sliced bought koshered (cooked completely). and tender texture, 450g (1lb) calf ’s liver, in 1cm (1⁄2in) slices 2 STORE Keep liver in the fridge and sliced lamb’s liver is cover it to prevent the surface drying delicious with crisp bacon. 3 tbsp plain flour out. Store whole for 2–3 days or sliced A whole liver, which weighs 100ml (31⁄2fl oz) red wine for 1–2 days. Liver freezes well as it has 450–675g (1–1½ lb), no fat; store it for up to a year. is excellent braised. 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 3 EAT Cooked: Before cooking, soak strong pig’s or beef liver in milk to 1 Heat the oil and butter in a large frying pan, add the sliced onions and Calf’s liver cook very gently for 30–40 minutes, Milk-fed calf ’s liver is the or until they are soft and golden palest and most tender of brown. Remove to a dish using all meat livers. It has a smooth a slotted spoon, leaving the buttery texture and delicate flavour, oil in the frying pan. ideal for quickly sautéeing with herbs such as sage 2 Turn up the heat. Season the slices or softened onions. of liver with salt and black pepper, and dust them in the flour, then fry for 2 minutes on each side. Remove from the pan to a warm dish. Add the wine and vinegar to the pan and stir to dissolve the brown residue. 3 Return the onions and liver to the pan and reheat them very gently. Serve hot, with white polenta. Slice calf’s liver thinly for frying so that it will cook quickly and evenly. POULTRY LIVER Although the livers of other poultry, and also use them in soups and such as turkey, are eaten, chicken livers stuffings and to add richness to pâtés. are by far the best known, being found Quickly fry fresh foie gras; serve in every country and every cuisine. preserved foie gras chilled and sliced. In Europe, the larger duck and goose FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, eggs, livers are fattened to make foie gras, onions, garlic, truffles, figs, grapes, which is a highly prized delicacy. raisins, prunes, chutney, Sauterne. 1 BUY Fresh and frozen chicken CLASSIC RECIPES Chicken liver pâté; livers, and to a lesser extent duck and chopped liver and onions; foie gras turkey livers, are sold whole, by weight. with Sauterne; pâté de foie gras. Avoid livers that are dark or strong- smelling. Fresh or frozen foie gras, Fresh livers can show which should be a pale, flesh colour, slight colour variation can be found in speciality shops; and still be wholesome. preserved foie gras in delicatessens. 2 STORE Fresh chicken, turkey, and duck livers can be kept in the fridge Pig’s liver for up to 3 days. Wrap well to avoid As it has a strong flavour, pig’s liver is usually braised contaminating other food. Fresh foie or used in pâtés rather than Remove the central white fried. A whole liver will weigh gras will keep in the fridge for tissue and any side about 900g (2lb). 10 days; preserved foie gras in membranes before cooking. a cool place for at least a year. 3 EAT Cooked: Chicken, turkey, and duck livers should be thoroughly cooked. Chop and fry them with a variety of flavourings

1 5 2 | M E AT | O F FA L LIGHTS (LUNGS) manufactured products like sausage and puddings, although a few regional The lungs, commonly known as lights, specialities, such as Scottish haggis, exist. of all animals have traditionally been 1 BUY Lights are unlikely to be used in peasant cooking. Nowadays, available from supermarkets and usually have to be ordered in advance, though, perhaps because of the either direct from the abattoir or from spongy texture, lights are a specialist butcher. generally used only 2 STORE It is difficult to vacuum-pack in commercially lights so they are normally sold in polythene bags. Keep them in the bag Remove the tough, in the fridge and cook within 2 days of gristly membrane purchase. Or wrap tightly and freeze between the lobes for up to 6 months. before cooking. 3 EAT First remove the windpipe and any gristle, then simmer lights for 1–2 hours. Once tender, dice or mince and add to soups, savoury puddings, and sausages. Lights can also be sliced, seasoned, and charcoal grilled. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Onions, garlic, tomatoes, lemon, almonds, oatmeal, cinnamon, allspice, pepper, ginger. CLASSIC RECIPES Haggis; pig’s fry; lung soup. KIDNEY cook within 1–2 days of purchase. Or HEART 2 STORE Wrap fresh heart and store wrap tightly and freeze for up to a year. in the fridge for up to a week. Or trim Meat kidneys have a distinctive flavour 3 EAT Remove any silvery membrane The heart has a texture like very off all fat, wrap tightly, and freeze for that is much enjoyed. As with other and internal gristle. Slice small kidneys fine-grained meat. As it is a well-used up to 6 months. offal, calf’s and lamb’s kidneys are paler lengthways and grill or fry. Dice larger muscle, it needs careful, slow cooking 3 EAT Sauté small hearts (rabbit and and more delicate in taste than those kidneys to sauté and serve with a to avoid toughness. Calf’s and lamb’s poultry) or preserve as a confit. Halve of other animals. When kidneys are sauce, or add to stews to enrich them. hearts are more tender and smaller or slice larger hearts to grill or fry. cooked, the texture is firm yet creamy. Braise whole kidneys or roast in their than beef (ox) heart. Poultry hearts, They can also be stuffed and roasted 1 BUY Kidneys are available from fat. Cooked, grated pig’s kidney is usually included in giblets, are enjoyed or braised whole, or diced and stewed. butchers, farmers’ markets, and used to lend body to some French in South America. In Scandinavia, deer FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Suet, fennel, supermarkets. Beef (ox) and calf’s cakes and sweet dishes. Poultry hearts are smoked and dried. onions, carrots, sage, lime, oatmeal, kidneys, which are made up of a cluster and rabbit kidneys can be fried 1 BUY Fresh and frozen hearts, usually pepper, red wine. of lobes, can be bought sliced or diced. or added to stews. whole but sometimes sliced or diced, are CLASSIC RECIPES Faggots; haggis; The smaller, smooth kidneys of other FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cream, available from butchers, farmers’ gefühltes kalbsherz; coeur de veau animals are usually sold whole, often in mushrooms, shallots, lemon, markets, and supermarkets. Whole, à la bonne femme; scrapple. pairs. Occasionally lamb’s kidneys are brandy, mustard, white wine. untrimmed heart can have considerable sold embedded in their suet fat. CLASSIC RECIPES Devilled amounts of fat around the top but this is Lamb’s heart 2 STORE Kidneys do not keep well, kidneys; steak and kidney pudding often trimmed off before sale. Weighing about 175g (6oz), so store in the fridge, well wrapped or pie; rognoncini trifolati. a lamb’s heart has very tender to prevent them from drying out, and meat, as does the larger calf ’s heart, which weighs about 750g (1lb 10oz). Both can be sliced and sautéed or stuffed and roasted. The fine, silvery-white membrane must be removed before cooking because it will burst.

TRIPE | SKIRT AND DIAPHRAGM | INTESTINE | 153 TRIPE (STOMACH) stomach (paunch) is most commonly used as a casing for savoury puddings While pigs and horses have just such as haggis. Lacy caul fat from the one stomach, all ruminants (eg stomach is used to wrap meat patties cattle, sheep, goats, and deer) and line terrine moulds. have four. The lining of the first 1 BUY Look for ready-cleaned tripe two stomachs yields tripe. in a butcher’s shop. It should be moist Blanket tripe is smoother than and have a delicate smell and creamy- the more deeply textured white colour. It may be sold raw honeycomb tripe; both have a (blanched) or part-cooked to reduce soft yet chewy texture when final cooking times. cooked slowly. The fourth 2 STORE Keep tripe in the coldest part of the fridge, tightly covered to Recognizable by its avoid contaminating other foods, and honeycomb appearance, use within 2 days of purchase. Or wrap this type of tripe needs tightly and freeze for up to 6 months. less cooking than the 3 EAT Mince or finely chop tripe for smoother blanket tripe. sausages and puddings. To stew, chop or slice, then simmer for 1–2 hours, either SKIRT AND DIAPHRAGM in a well-flavoured broth or, for a more delicate dish, in milk. Tripe can also be Also called flap or plate steak, the skirt More commonly, it is sliced and stewed grilled or fried. or diaphragm is a thick membrane with very gently for a long time. It can also FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ham, milk, egg, a small amount of muscle meat that is be stuffed and rolled up for roasting onions, sweet peppers, breadcrumbs, attached to the inside of the ribs. or braising. mace, bay leaf, sage, mustard, cloves, Although it is a tough, coarse-grained FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Soured ginger, tamarind, coriander, cumin, cut, with lengthy cooking it becomes cream, carrots, avocado, onions, wine, cider. tender and gives a good, strong meaty sweet peppers, chillies, tomatoes, CLASSIC RECIPES Tripe and onions; flavour to many dishes. cumin, oregano, pepper. tripes à la mode (de Caen); pepperpot 1 BUY Trimmed of excess fat and any CLASSIC RECIPES Fajitas; soup; menudo; haggis; trippa verde. bone fragments, the skirt or diaphragm is Cornish pasties. available from most butchers as a boiling Intestines in brine are cut. If the thick membrane is removed by easier to handle than the butcher, and the meat is pounded to those that have been a thin sheet, it is sometimes sold as skirt dry salted. steak for frying. 2 STORE Keep in the fridge and use within a week of purchase, or wrap tightly and freeze for up to 6 months. 3 EAT Slice across the grain to maximize tenderness. Skirt steak can be marinated if wished and then quickly grilled, fried, or stir-fried. Chicken heart INTESTINE from a butcher or butchers’ suppliers, then grill on skewers or stew. Soak As they are tiny, chicken hearts or by mail order via the internet. dry-salted and brined intestines are sold by weight rather than The traditional cuisine in many countries 2 STORE Keep fresh intestines in the overnight before stuffing with minced individually. They are delicious includes dishes of slowly cooked pork fridge and use within 2 days. Brined or chopped meat and fat to make skewered and grilled. intestines (chitterlings), as well as a few or dry-salted intestines will keep for sausages, which can then be smoked recipes that use the intestines of young, up to 6 months in the fridge. or dried. (Once soaked, use within Untrimmed chicken milk-fed animals such as calf and lamb. 3 EAT Thoroughly wash the fresh 1 day or they may disintegrate.) hearts can have a lot of Large intestines also make casings for intestines of young, milk-fed animals, FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork fat, chicken, fat around the top. Trim meat puddings while the medium and beef fat, cream, tomatoes, mushrooms, off before cooking. smaller ones are used as casings for truffle, garlic, chilli, sage, thyme, pepper, sausages and salamis. cumin, oatmeal. 1 BUY Fresh intestines need to be CLASSIC RECIPES Chitterlings; specially ordered (cleaning them is andouillette; kishke. a lengthy job best left to specialists). Dry-salted or brined intestines to be used as sausage casings can be ordered

1 5 4 | M E AT | O F FA L BRAIN Normally sold fresh and whole, brain FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, butter, should smell fresh and have little blood eggs, capers, lemon, lime, coconut The delicate yet rich flavour and or discoloration. milk, parsley, mace. creamy texture of brain is highly prized 2 STORE Keep, covered, in the fridge CLASSIC RECIPES Brains with black in many cuisines. Calf’s brain is and use on the day of purchase. Or butter; fritte alla fiorentina; cervelles considered to be the best, followed wrap tightly and store in the freezer à la génoise. by lamb’s. There is little difference for up to 4 months. between brain from other animals. 3 EAT Soak brain in salty water for Although it consists 1 BUY Brain can be bought from 1–2 hours to whiten it, then poach for mostly of cartilage, the specialist butchers and some large 15–20 minutes; drain and press until supermarkets; it may need to be cool. After this it can be sliced and muzzle has useful ordered in advance. (Beef (ox) and sautéed, or deep-fried as fritters. amounts of meat as well. lamb’s brain is not sold in countries affected by BSE/mad cow disease.) Trim off the spinal MUZZLE 3 EAT Sometimes the muzzle is cord, extraneous brined before cooking. The cartilage parts, and any Like the ears, the muzzle of an animal needs long, slow simmering to soften greenish bits to is cartilaginous so its primary use in the it. Once cooked, it is either served kitchen is to add a crunchy texture to in the flavoured broth, or sliced or leave the two lobes. rustic preparations of meat in jelly. chopped and set in the rich jelly. In 1 BUY Muzzle can be bought from some countries muzzle is stewed with There may be two small specialist butchers (it may need to be other parts of the head such as tongue bones left at this end. Remove ordered in advance). Lamb’s muzzle is or ears, and sometimes with the feet. them after cooking. usually sold skinned. Pig’s, calf’s, and FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Salad leaves, beef (ox) muzzle may be skinned or parsley, celery, gherkins, capers, cloves, blanched to remove hair. ginger, mustard, nutmeg, wine vinegar. 2 STORE Keep, covered, in the fridge CLASSIC RECIPES Museau de boeuf for up to 2 days. To freeze, wrap tightly à la vinaigrette; feijoada. and store for up to 6 months. The cheeks or jowl provides the largest piece of meat from a head. TONGUE deeper in colour. It is also available FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Onions, celery, cooked and sliced as a delicatessen capers, gherkins, parsley, chestnuts, Tongue is highly nutritious and has long item, and canned ready for slicing. nutmeg, mustard, horseradish, chutney, been considered a delicacy due to its 2 STORE Fresh tongue can be kept in white wine. soft, melting texture. Tongues of all the fridge for 2 days, brined tongue for CLASSIC RECIPES Pressed tongue; animals are cooked, even down to the up to a week. Or you can freeze fresh bollito misto; tongue in onion sauce; tiny tongues of rabbit and songbirds. or brined tongue for up to 6 months. sweet and sour tongue. Lamb’s, calf’s, and deer tongues are the 3 EAT Brined tongue needs to be most tender and delicate; beef (ox) soaked before cooking. Simmer tongue has the strongest flavour. Beef and until tender, then peel off the tough reindeer tongues are often pickled and skin and serve hot with a sauce; or smoked after being skinned. press and cool to serve cold in slices 1 BUY Tongue is sold fresh, when it with its jellied savoury stock. should look moist and pink or reddish, as well as cured in a brine, when it is

EAR | HEAD | CHEEK OR JOWL | 155 EAR HEAD and serve in a sauce or make into brawn or head cheese with the jellied The most commonly eaten ears are The head is cooked as a celebration cooking liquid. those of the pig and calf, although dish in many cuisines and is presented FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Egg, onions, kale, lamb’s ears are also enjoyed. Ears need whole or boned, sometimes with the garlic, orange, gherkins, capers, cloves, gentle simmering to tenderize their feet of the animal, or the eyeballs nutmeg, cumin, allspice, mustard, cartilage. However, it never completely served as a separate delicacy. As the molasses, vinegar. softens and the crunchy texture forms head contains muscle, fat, and cartilage, part of their appeal. as well as brain and tongue, it offers CLASSIC RECIPES 1 BUY Fresh ears are available from crunchy, creamy, and fibrous textures, butchers (they may need to be ordered as well as a mixture of flavours. Tête de veau; brawn or head in advance). They should be well 1 BUY A whole head will need to be cheese; roast boar’s cleaned inside and out, and have all ordered from a butcher. Pig’s and calf’s head; scrapple; powsowdie. the hair removed. Sometimes you heads are sometimes sold with the skin can buy brined ears or precooked Check the ears are on but scalded to remove the hair. ears that are ready to grill or fry. clean, with hair Otherwise they are sold like sheep’s 2 STORE Keep fresh ears, tightly removed, and that the head: skinned and sometimes split covered, in the fridge for up to fine outer membrane in two. Calf’s head is also sold 3 days or in the freezer for up has been peeled off. ready cooked. to 6 months. Cooked ears will 2 STORE If possible, cook on the day keep for up to 3 days in the fridge. of purchase, or keep for no more than 3 EAT Poach or braise, either whole, 1 day in the fridge. A head can also be stuffed, or sliced, and then serve hot cured in a brine for up to a week. in a spicy sauce; or cool and coat in 3 EAT Soak heads overnight, then breadcrumbs to bake, fry, or grill. slowly simmer to cook the meat FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Anchovies, thoroughly. Once cooled, the onions, capers, salad leaves, thyme, head can be roasted for a lemon, mustard, nutmeg, cloves, decorative glaze. Alternatively, mace, chutney, vinegar. take the meat off the bone CHEEK OR JOWL 2 STORE Keep fresh or raw cured cheek in the fridge, covered, for up to The cheek or jowl is a choice morsel 4 days, or in the freezer for 6 months. of rich, dense meat from the head of 3 EAT Beef cheeks are usually gently any animal, although because it is a stewed for a rich dish, or used in muscle used for chewing it is quite brawn or savoury pies. Cured pork tough and needs long, gentle cooking cheeks can be cooked, then rolled in to tenderize it. breadcrumbs to make Bath chaps, 1 BUY Cheek is available from some a kind of ham, or used in rustic soups. traditional butchers, but normally FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, carrots, needs to be ordered in advance. Beef celery, onions, garlic, sage, bay leaf, (ox) and calf’s cheeks are usually sold allspice, red wine, soy sauce. fresh and skinned. Pig’s cheek may CLASSIC RECIPES Bath be sold smoked and cured, ready to chaps; feijoada. cook; it sometimes includes the skin. If the whole head is to be roasted, protect the tip of the snout and the ears with foil to prevent them from burning.

1 5 6 | M E AT | O F FA L SWEETBREAD FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cream, butter, Thymus sweetbreads celery, capers, chanterelles, lemon, are plumper than Considered a delicacy, sweetbread béchamel sauce, nutmeg, mustard. pancreas sweetbreads. includes several glands: the thymus, CLASSIC RECIPES Ris de also called throat or neck sweetbread veau forestière; mollejas (only present in young animals as the a la pollensina. glands shrink with age), and the pancreas. The testicles (fries) are Thymus sweetbreads sometimes also included as a type The type most commonly sold, of sweetbread. calf ’s thymus sweetbreads 1 BUY Sweetbreads are available are considered to be the best from specialist butchers (they may because of their delicate flavour need to be ordered). They should and soft, creamy texture. be pale flesh-pink with no dark discoloration. Throat sweetbreads are sold in pairs connected by a duct. 2 STORE Keep, wrapped, in the fridge and use within 24 hours of purchase as they deteriorate quickly. Or wrap tightly to freeze for up to 6 months. 3 EAT Soak in cold, acidulated water for 2–3 hours, then blanch. Remove membranes and tubes, and then either poach or braise to serve with a sauce, or slice and sauté, grill, or deep-fry. Pancreas sweetbreads Beef pancreas is larger than calf ’s and has a slightly less delicate flavour. The membranes surrounding the pancreas need to be removed before cooking, as they have been here. MELT (SPLEEN) Melt is dark red in colour, with pig’s and The spleen is a spongy organ located beef melt being darker near the intestines. Culinarily called melt or milt, it tastes a bit like kidney. than calf’s. Most often from beef (ox), calf, or pig, melt is not widely eaten other than in manufactured products, but there are some traditional dishes that use it. 1 BUY Melt needs to be ordered from a traditional or specialist butcher. 2 STORE Store in the fridge, covered, and use within 24 hours of purchase. Or wrap tightly to freeze for 6 months. 3 EAT Melt can be simmered, alone or with other offal, and served with a rich wine sauce, or used to enrich stews. Stuff and braise, or make into a pâté, faggots, or sausages. In Sicily slices are deep-fried and served with cheese in soft rolls. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ricotta, garlic, coriander, lemon, allspice, cinnamon, cumin, Madeira, wine vinegar. CLASSIC RECIPE Guastelle.

GI Z Z A R D | P O U LT RY NE C K | P O U LT RY F EET | F EET | 1 5 7 GIZZARD 2 STORE Fresh gizzards can be kept, POULTRY NECK 2 STORE Keep fresh necks, covered, wrapped, in the fridge for up to 3 days. in the fridge and use within 2 days of Along with the neck, heart, liver, and If they have not been cleaned, slice in Poultry necks are usually sold skinned purchase, or freeze for 6 months. feet, the gizzard makes up a bird’s half, remove the grit and thick inner as part of the giblets (with the heart, 3 EAT To improve flavour, first roast giblets. As the gizzard is used to grind membrane, and wash thoroughly. liver, gizzard, and sometimes the feet), or grill skinned necks to brown them, up the bird’s food, it is a very tough 3 EAT Simmer to make soup stock. although the skin is also used. There is then simmer to make soup stock. muscle indeed, but has a good flavour To preserve as confit, salt overnight, a useful amount of meat on the neck, FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Foie gras, garlic, that is useful in stocks and soups. then cook very slowly in poultry fat. but it is not easily accessible so necks shallot, thyme, bay leaf, paprika, chilli, 1 BUY The gizzard is usually included Simmer or braise in a flavoured broth are usually added to the stockpot. coriander, corn meal, noodles, brandy. with the other components of giblets, to use in a filling for pies and stews. 1 BUY When you buy a bird, the CLASSIC RECIPES Stuffed goose but may also be sold separately. A FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Eggs, coriander, neck will normally be included in the neck; chicken noodle soup. gizzard is only slightly larger than the garlic, spring onion, orange peel, ginger, giblets, but necks can also be bought heart, so several are needed to make star anise, white wine, rice wine, soy sauce. separately, from Chinese and kosher up a portion. Duck and goose gizzards CLASSIC RECIPES Confit de gésiers; suppliers. Fresh duck and goose necks are available preserved in cans or jars. stuffed goose neck; giblet soup; are sold in the regions where the birds braised giblets. are reared. Canned, stuffed duck and goose necks are sold in delicatessens. The skin of poultry neck is sometimes taken off and stuffed to make a kind of sausage. Pig’s trotters are usually brined before cooking. They should be thoroughly cleaned between the toes. The cartilage in poultry The hard outer gristle of FEET FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Onions, garlic, feet produces gelatine to the gizzard softens to a celery, carrots, bay leaf, parsley, truffle, set their cooking liquid. jelly when slowly cooked. Animals’ feet – the most popular being capers, lemon, mustard, ginger, lentils, pig’s trotters and calf’s feet – and also tartare sauce, vinegar. POULTRY FEET their tendons are an excellent source of CLASSIC RECIPES Grilled pig’s gelatine, and so they are commonly trotters; pied de cochon à la Sainte- Poultry feet (chicken, duck, and goose) added to stocks and stews to give a Ménehould; zampone; magiritsa; calf’s are not traditionally used in Western better flavour and silky texture. They foot jelly. cooking, but their crunchy, gelatinous are also used to make clear jellies texture makes them much appreciated and aspic. But there is enough in Chinese cuisine. They are also used meat on them to make dishes in in Middle Eastern cooking. their own right. 1 BUY Chicken feet are the most 1 BUY Available from easily bought, followed by duck. They traditional butchers are available fresh and frozen from (although they may need butchers (included in packs of giblets to be ordered in and sometimes separately) and advance), pig’s trotters Chinese food suppliers. Goose feet are and calf’s feet are sold not so common except where geese scalded and cleaned; are reared. If possible, avoid buying lamb’s, sheep’s, and unwashed feet as they could be a beef (ox) feet are skinned. source of contamination. Some are sold ready 2 STORE If not already cleaned, scrub cooked. Feet from the hind thoroughly, then blanch in boiling water legs have more meat than to sterilize them before storing, those from the forelegs. covered, in the fridge for up to 3 days. 2 STORE If not already 3 EAT Poultry feet need lengthy done, clean raw feet simmering to soften the cartilage. thoroughly. They can be Once cooked the skin and bones may kept, covered, in the fridge be removed, although sometimes feet for 3 days or in the freezer, are soft enough to eat in their entirety. tightly wrapped, for up to They may be served stewed, refried, a year. Wrapped, ready-cooked feet or chopped and set in their jellied can be kept in the fridge for 3 days. cooking liquid. 3 EAT All feet and tendons need FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Garlic, spring lengthy simmering to release their onion, capers, parsley, lemon, orange zest, gelatine and soften the cartilage. After ginger, star anise, soy sauce, rice wine. simmering, roll in breadcrumbs and grill; CLASSIC RECIPES Potted chicken or bone, stuff, and reform; or chop and feet; Phoenix claws. serve with the jellied cooking liquid.

1 5 8 | M E AT | O F FA L BONE Meat attached to bones TAIL CLASSIC RECIPE adds rich colour to The bones of animals and stock if it is browned In the West the most popular of this BRAISED OXTAIL poultry carcasses yield gelatine to before simmering. animal extremity is strong-flavoured, enrich stocks, soups, stews, and meaty oxtail. Smaller tails from pigs This traditional British dish is rich sauces as well as providing wonderful attached as well as fresh skin can be are also eaten, although they have little and hearty. For the best flavour, make flavour. Beef and calf bones also kept in the fridge for up to a week. meat on them. The tails of fat-tailed it a day in advance. contain marrow, which is a prized 3 EAT Fry or bake chopped skin until sheep are highly prized in the Middle SERVES 4 delicacy in many countries. crisp, or simmer and add to brawn or East for their distinctive brown fat, 1.5kg (3lb 3oz) oxtail, in large pieces 1 BUY Poultry carcasses are sold by other cold-meat preparations. Render while in Asia deer tails are used in plain flour, to coat and toss butchers, sometimes along with the fat by cooking in a slow oven. Wrap a form of broth in Chinese medicine. salt and freshly ground black pepper, giblets. Beef, lamb, and pig bones are lean meat and birds with sheets of fat, 1 BUY Oxtail is widely available, sold to season also available from butchers, and from or thread (lard) with strips of fat, in bundles of pieces varying from 2cm 3–4 tbsp beef dripping or vegetable oil farmers’ markets, although they may before roasting. Use caul fat to wrap (3⁄4in) to 12cm (5in) in diameter. Pig’s 1 large onion, roughly chopped need to be ordered in advance. All meat patties or line terrine moulds. tail has to be ordered from a specialist 1 large carrot, cut into chunks fresh bones should smell sweet. Pork FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Spring butcher. Fat lamb tails can be bought 1 large celery stick, cut into chunks knuckle bones are also sold smoked. onions, coriander, lemon, lime, from butchers in the Middle East and 1 large parsnip, cut into chunks 2 STORE Keep all bones in the fridge. salt, chilli, pepper, ginger, soy Asia, and from specialist halal shops. 85g (3oz) swede, cut into chunks Use poultry carcasses on the day of sauce, rice wine. 2 STORE Keep oxtail or pig’s tail, well 750ml (11⁄4 pints) beef stock or water purchase. Use knuckle and marrow CLASSIC RECIPES Pork wrapped, in the fridge for up to 4 days 150ml (5fl oz) red wine or port bones within 2 days, or tightly wrap scratchings; crépinettes; fried or freeze for up to 6 months. Fat lamb bundle of mixed fresh herbs (bay leaf, and freeze for up to 4 months. chicken skin; chicharrón. tail can be frozen for up to 4 months. thyme, parsley, rosemary) 3 EAT For stocks, soups, and savoury 3 EAT As they need to be cooked mashed potato, to serve jellies, first brown bones, then simmer slowly to break down the cartilage, slowly to extract the gelatine (cook which gives a silky texture, use oxtail 1 Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F/ poultry carcasses very gently to avoid and pig’s tail in hearty stews and soups. Gas 3). Coat the pieces of oxtail cloudiness). Roast or poach leg bones Cooked pig’s tail can be rolled in lightly in flour generously seasoned to cook the marrow, which can then breadcrumbs and grilled until crisp. with black pepper. Melt the dripping be scooped out. Fat lamb tail fat is eaten raw or in a large, heavy flameproof casserole FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, celery, cooked to flavour dishes. and brown the oxtail all over (fry in onions, carrots, capers, parsley, bay leaf, FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, batches). Remove to a dish. thyme, lemon. celery, parsnips, carrots, swede, CLASSIC RECIPES Consommé; osso buco; risotto alla milanese. onions, peppercorns, nutmeg, cumin, allspice, mustard, red SKIN AND FAT wine, soy sauce. CLASSIC RECIPES Braised Meat and poultry skin is enjoyed for oxtail; oxtail soup; feijoada. its texture, whether boiled to add succulence, or fried or roasted to 2 Toss the vegetables in flour, then a crisp finish, such as the “crackling” brown them too (add a little more on roast pork in Britain. The fat from dripping to the pan, if needed). Pour animals keeps lean meat and birds in 600ml (1 pint) stock and scrape up moist during cooking, and is rendered all the browned residue on the bottom to provide frying and baking fat such of the pan to dissolve it. as lard, dripping, and kosher schmaltz. 1 BUY Pork skin, sheets of back fat, 3 Return the oxtail to the casserole. and caul, as well as poultry neck skin Pour in the wine and tuck the bundle for stuffing, may need to be specially of herbs into the gravy. Cover the pan ordered from the butcher. tightly. Bring to the boil, then transfer 2 STORE If no meat is attached, fresh to the oven to cook for 2½–3 hours. fat can be stored in the fridge, well Remove from the oven and allow to sealed, for 1–2 months or frozen for cool, then refrigerate overnight. up to 4 months. Fat with some meat Oxtail is surrounded by 4 Next day, remove the excess fat from yellowish fat that lends the surface and add the remaining its distinctive flavour to stock.Reheat in the oven at 180°C dishes when stewed. (350°F/Gas 4) for 30 minutes. Serve piping hot with mashed potato. Fat should be pale pink or pale yellow: brown fat (except that of fat-tailed sheep) is a sign of deterioration.

The natural oils and marinated spices in cured sausages are released when the sausages are cooked, to give a rich, exotic flavour.

1 6 0 | M E AT | C U R E D M E AT A N D S A U S AG E S BACON or frozen for up to 2 months. Once Back bacon opened keep in the fridge and use From the loin, back is the leanest cut Bacon is pork that has been cured with within a week. of bacon and is often grilled or fried to salt (dry or as a brine) and then often 3 EAT Grill, fry, or bake rashers to accompany eggs for breakfast or to use in smoked. Long used as a means of serve alongside eggs, offal such as liver, a sandwich. Middle bacon, from the side of preserving pork, regional and national poultry, or fish; use in sandwiches; or the pig, also has a good eye of lean meat. variations have developed in the scatter over salads. Or dice and cook breeds of pigs and the cuts used – with other ingredients to make pasta from the belly, side, and loin – and in sauces, stuffings, soups and casseroles, the salting techniques. Unsmoked or and savoury pastries. “green” bacon has pale pink flesh and FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Chicken, white fat; smoked bacon is deeper in kidneys, liver, oily and white fish, colour. Chicken, turkey, duck, goat, scallops, prawns, cheese, cauliflower, lamb, and beef are also sometimes potatoes, tomatoes, avocado. salted and then sold as “bacon”. CLASSIC RECIPES Quiche Lorraine; 1 BUY Normally sold sliced, and by BLT; liver and bacon; fidget pie; weight, bacon can be bought from omelette bonne femme. butchers or from supermarkets, when it is usually vacuum packed. 2 STORE Unopened packs can be kept in the fridge for several weeks Smoked streaky bacon American bacon The belly yields streaky bacon Taken from the fatty belly, American bacon rashers, which have a good balance is normally smoked. When cooked its fat of fat and lean, making them ideal melts readily and the bacon becomes very for laying over the breast of crisp. So-called “Canadian” bacon from the a chicken or turkey to be eye of the loin is considerably leaner. roasted, to prevent it from drying out. Wiltshire cure bacon This is the Lardo usual, commercial brine cure for bacon, Made in Italy by entailing immersion and injection of the brine-curing pork back brine into the meat. Depending on the fat with herbs and spices in brine this may create a milder flavour wooden barrels – or in Carrara in than dry-cured bacon. marble containers – lardo has a silky-smooth texture and wonderful flavour. It is traditionally served on toast as an antipasto. Wiltshire cure bacon is normally sold with the rind attached. When cooking, the fat should melt away to leave a crisp remnant with a delicate flavour. Marinating and Lap yuk long drying give Literally translated as “wax meat”, this strongly Chinese bacon a flavoured Chinese bacon is made from pork belly mahogany colour. marinated in Chinese spices and then slowly dried. It is normally chopped to add flavour to other dishes. Ayrshire cure bacon Unusually, with this Scottish method the pork is skinned to Dry-cured bacon give a rind-free bacon. This permits the dry Bacon cured in a dry salt mixture contains less liquid than brine-cured cure to enter the meat and, depending on bacon so does not exude a milky the cure, can produce a strongly liquid as it cooks. Some dry salt flavoured bacon. cures include herbs, spices, sugar, and other seasonings. The meat of dry-cured bacon is usually harder and darker than brine-cured bacon.

PA N C E T TA | G A M M O N O R H A M | 1 6 1 CLASSIC RECIPE PANCETTA 3 EAT Use pancetta in pasta sauces, FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Parmesan, to top pizzas, in bean casseroles and asparagus, tomatoes, chilli. QUICHE LORRAINE Pancetta is pork belly that has been risottos, in soups, and to wrap fish and CLASSIC RECIPES Spaghetti alla dry-salted and then air-dried for about poultry for grilling. Thinly sliced rolled carbonara; bucatini all’Amatriciana. This famous French savoury tart 12 weeks. It is not usually smoked but pancetta can be served as antipasti. has a smooth, rich custard filling herbs, spices, and garlic are often used with pieces of crisp, salty bacon. to augment the salting. It may be cured Herbs and spices on the flat (stesa) or rolled up (arrotolata). outside give a clue to Originally Italian, with many regional the flavour. variations, pancetta is now produced in other parts of the world and valued by cooks everywhere. 1 BUY Pancetta is available as slices or dice in packs in supermarkets. Or buy it freshly cut from Italian delicatessens. 2 STORE Packs can be kept in the fridge for several weeks. If purchased fresh from a delicatessen, store in the fridge, loosely wrapped, for up to a week. SERVES 4–6 GAMMON OR HAM Prosciutto cotto Jamón cocido This Italian brine-cured, In Spain, boned, For the pastry In many parts of the world, the hind boned ham is sold ready brine-cured ham is leg of a pig is salted (traditionally to eat as antipasti. It sometimes baked in a 225g (8oz) plain flour dry-salted but now more commonly can also be diced and mould or boiled before sale. brine-cured) and matured, then added to sauces. Slice to eat as a first course 115g (4oz) butter, cubed sometimes smoked. In Britain the or in a bread roll. term gammon is used for this type Jambon de Paris is tender 1 egg yolk of cured pork, although it is also and pale in colour. Smithfield ham widely known as ham. Considered to be the best For the filling 1 BUY Uncooked gammon can be North American “country” bought prepacked or from a butcher ham, from Smithfield, 200g (7oz) streaky bacon lardons as thick rashers or steaks, or as a joint Virginia, this is dry-salted with or without the bone. It is also sold and heavily smoked. It is 1 onion, finely chopped cooked and ready to eat hot or cold. usually baked or boiled. 2 STORE Unopened packs can be 75g (21⁄2 oz) Gruyère cheese, grated kept in the fridge for several weeks or frozen for up to 2 months. Once 4 large eggs, lightly beaten opened keep in the fridge and use within a week. 150ml (5fl oz) double cream 3 EAT If heavily salted, soak in several changes of water before 150ml (5fl oz) milk cooking. Bake or simmer joints to eat hot with a sauce or cold with freshly ground black pepper salad or in sandwiches. Fry, grill, or braise thick rashers and steaks. 1 To make the pastry, put the flour FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Eggs, and butter in a food processor, and pineapple, dried fruits, blitz until the mixture resembles fine mustard, cloves. crumbs. Add the egg yolk and 3–4 tbsp chilled water and blitz briefly to Jambon de Paris make a smooth dough. Turn out on Also known as jambon blanc, the to a floured surface and knead briefly, common French brine-cured, boned ham then wrap and chill for at least is usually sold already boiled. Slice and 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to serve with mustard. 190°C (375°F/Gas 5). 2 On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry and use to line a 23cm (9in) tin that is 4cm (1¾in) deep. Prick the bottom of the pastry case and line with greaseproof paper and baking beans. Bake blind for 12 minutes. Remove the paper and beans, and bake for a further 10 minutes, or until lightly golden. 3 Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan and fry the bacon lardons for 3–4 minutes. Add the onion and fry for a further 2–3 minutes. Spread the bacon mixture over the bottom of the pastry case. Add the cheese. 4 Whisk together the eggs, cream, milk, and pepper to taste. Pour into the pastry case. Set the tin on a baking sheet and bake for 25–30 minutes, or until the filling is golden and just set. Allow to cool slightly, then slice and serve hot or warm.

1 6 2 | M E AT | C U R E D M E AT A N D S A U S AG E S GAMMON OR HAM (CONTINUED) CLASSIC RECIPE OTHER SALT-CURED MEATS Virginia ham HONEY-ROAST HAM Most cured meats are made from pork Traditionally dry-salted, but other meats are also cured in many then usually smoked and A British favourite, serve this hot for regions of the world, either by using a matured for 2–3 years, this one meal and use the cold meat in dry salt-based cure or by brine-curing, ham is often sweetened salads, sandwiches, and soups. which is commonly known as pickling. with sugar or honey. It may Dry-cured meats may be described as be sold as an entire ham or SERVES 12–15 salted, pickled, or “corned”, which is a sliced, almost always reference to the crystals of salt used in cooked and ready to eat. 3kg (61⁄2lb) gammon joint, soaked if the original dry-cure process. Cured necessary (ask your butcher) meats are especially popular among The best long matured Jewish communities. hams have deeply 2 celery sticks, coarsely chopped 1 BUY Cured meats are often sold coloured meat. sliced, either freshly cut from deli 2 carrots, coarsely chopped counters in supermarkets or pre- York ham packed. Canned corned beef is easily Although traditionally dry-salted, 1 onion, coarsely chopped found in supermarkets. most York ham is now brine-cured 2 STORE Freshly cut slices can be and then normally smoked. bouquet garni of 8 black peppercorns, kept, loosely wrapped, in the fridge, for Tender and mild, it is sold both 2 bay leaves, 4 fresh thyme sprigs, up to a week. Store pre-packed slices pre-cooked and for home boiling a few parsley stalks, and 12–16 cloves, according to instructions. or baking, bone-in or boned. all tied in a piece of muslin 3 EAT Use in sandwiches or serve as a starter or with salad. The best jambonneau has a a handful of extra cloves FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Mustard, good quantity of meat but the pickled cucumbers, pickled onions. 4 tbsp runny honey CLASSIC RECIPES Reuben sandwich; presence of cartilage is also corned beef hash. essential for good texture. 11⁄2 tbsp English mustard Salt beef Jambonneau 1 Place the gammon, vegetables, and As the name suggests, this is beef For French jambonneau, lightly bouquet garni in a large pan. Cover preserved by soaking in a very salty, brine-cured pork hocks are with cold water. Bring to the boil, seasoned brine; historically it was the boiled and often sold coated then reduce the heat and simmer for staple meat for sailors on long in breadcrumbs with the bone about 13⁄4 hours. voyages. It is often served hot, piled removed. The mild flavour high in sandwiches. works well in cold meat 2 Lift the ham onto a board and starters or as picnic fare. discard the vegetables and cooking liquid. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). 3 Cut the skin off the ham, leaving a smooth layer of fat. Score the fat with a sharp knife, first in one direction and then in the opposite direction, to make a diamond pattern. 4 Stud the fat with cloves, placing one in the centre of each diamond shape. Set the ham in a roasting tin. Mix together the honey and mustard and drizzle this glaze evenly over the fat. 5 Roast for about 45 minutes, basting with the glaze from the tin a couple of times, until ham has a dark golden glaze. Serve hot, or cool and keep in the fridge for up a week. Eisbein is normally well Eisbein covered with soft fat, In Germany, this salt-cured and sometimes smoked hock or knuckle which enhances flavour. of pork is simmered slowly to serve with potatoes or sauerkraut.

O T H E R S A LT- C U R E D M E AT S | 1 6 3 Cured venison Best prepared from a single muscle in the haunch, or less frequently the saddle, venison is cured by dry-salting or in brine. Each producer creates his own recipe, often adding sugar or molasses as well as herbs and spices. Serve thinly sliced. Corned beef There is normally a Smoked venison Bought in rectangular significant amount of Lean venison, usually haunch, is either dry- cans, the chopped and fat, which contributes to or wet-cured with a salt-based brine that pressed form of salt beef the flavour and texture may contain juniper or other herbs, then (affectionately called “bully of corned beef. hot-smoked to cook it thoroughly. Eat cold. beef ”) is less popular today than it once was, but is still Pastrami Kassler a convenient storecupboard For this popular American sandwich meat, Kassler or Kasseler is a salt-cured standby. Use it for hash. beef such as brisket is dry-cured with a highly and smoked pork popular in seasoned salt mixture, then smoked and Germany, Denmark, and Poland. Salt beef is tender and cooked. It can be eaten hot or Usually the neck or loin, other cuts well supplied with fat. It cold, usually with rye bread may be used including rib cutlets. is sometimes bright red and mustard. due to the addition of saltpetre to the brine. Cured tongue Smoked duck and goose Tongue is normally soaked for In France, boneless meat from ducks a few days in brine, then boiled (left), and geese (right), is lightly until the skin can easily be brine-cured and then smoked for removed. It is then pressed until eating raw. cold and served in thin slices. Goose fat should be thick but restricted to the outside and it should have a slightly smoked taste.

1 6 4 | M E AT | C U R E D M E AT A N D S A U S AG E S DRY-CURED HAMS Culatello Jamón Ibérico From the Parma region of Italy, this is a A highly esteemed Spanish ham from Hams described as dry-cured – first prosciutto crudo made from pigs that are black Iberian pigs, this is salted and salted and then air-dried or dry-aged, older and heavier, thus fattier, than pigs then air-dried for 1–3 years. The best sometimes smoked – are traditionally used for conventional Parma ham. grades are from pigs grazed in the found in southern regions of Europe The hams are also matured for longer. native oak forests to produce or mountainous areas that are windy wonderfully flavoured meat. enough to permit drying. Such hams are generally eaten raw. Regional Culatello should have variations in the breed and diet of the ample fat distributed pig, the cut used (normally the hind throughout the meat. leg but occasionally other parts), the length and method of salting and subsequent drying, and then whether the ham is smoked all contribute to the flavours in the huge range of dry-cured hams available. 1 BUY Slices can be cut from whole bone-in hams in delicatessens, or bought in packs from supermarkets. 2 STORE Packs of sliced ham can be kept in the fridge for several weeks; once opened use within a week. 3 EAT Sliced very thinly, dry-cured ham is enjoyed as tapas in Spain, hors d’oeuvres in France, and antipasti in Italy. It can also be used in sandwiches and salads, and added at the last minute to cooked dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Parmesan, gherkins, figs, melon, asparagus. Speck Made in the mountainous border region of southern Austria and northern Italy, this ham is salted with herbs and spices, then very slowly smoked. The fat of Black Forest Bayonne ham ham should be white This dry-cured, lightly smoked and the flesh pink. ham from southwest France uses wine in the curing process, which gives it its special flavour. Black Forest ham The fat should be Robustly flavoured ham from the abundant and snow German Black Forest region, this is white and the meat pink salted, spiced, and then slowly cold-smoked over pine logs. It and succulent. should be sliced so thinly that it is almost transparent. Elenski but Elenski but should be Coppa A popular Bulgarian dry-cured firm and pink, slightly Also called capicola, coppa is cured ham, this is salted for 40 days dry but still able to be pork neck or shoulder. The meat is and then air-dried for many cut with a sharp knife. marinated and salted, then packed months. In the past the drying into natural casings and air-dried. It was done in the farmhouse is sometimes cooked before sale. kitchen where the ham often acquired a smoky flavour.

D RY- C U R E D H A M S | 1 6 5 Prosciutto crudo The most widely known of the dry-cured hams is Italian prosciutto crudo. There are many regional cures, including the famous Parma, considered to be the best, and St Daniele from Friuli. Jamón serrano Meaning “mountain ham” in Spanish, these salted and air-dried hams have many regional variations, such as jamón de Teruel and de Huelva. They are sweet with a chewy texture. Jamón bellota One of the most expensive dry-cured hams in the world, this is the highest quality jamón Ibérico, prepared from pigs that have fed on acorns. The creamy yellow fat has an exquisite sweet flavour. Westphalian ham Made in the Westphalian forest of Germany from pigs raised on acorns, this air-dried ham is smoked over beech and juniper. The aromatic flavour is complemented by pumpernickel bread. Jinhua ham Much loved in China, this is made from the hind legs of a particular breed of pig, which is dry-salted and then soaked before drying for several months to develop a distinctive flavour. Presunto Similar to Spanish jamón Ibérico, this lightly smoked Portuguese ham may also be made from black Iberian pigs. Jinhua should have abundant cream-coloured fat and dark red meat.

1 6 6 | M E AT | C U R E D M E AT A N D S A U S AG E S AIR-DRIED MEAT Bresaola Bakkwa To make this well-known antipasto, Known also as rougan or long Being simple and easily transportable, boned beef from the hind legs is yok, Chinese bakkwa is pork meat preserved by air-drying has a long salted, with juniper berries and other cured with salt and sugar, history associated with man’s survival. herbs, for a few days and then flattened, and dried. While hams are the best-known dried air-dried. Valtellina in the meat products, other meats are also Italian Alps is the centre Pastirma preserved in this way – normally by of production. This and similarly named products exist initial salting, followed by washing, and throughout the Middle East, Balkans, and then drying in the wind or heat of the Turkey, prepared from salted pork, lamb, sun. Flavourings of hot spices, herbs, goat, water buffalo, and camel. Once dried and smoke are commonly applied. The they are pressed, covered in a paste of hot meat is usually boned beforehand and spices, and further dried. may be sliced or minced to speed up the drying process. Cecina de Leon is often 1 BUY Air-dried meats should in served with a mild general be firm and not too dried out. 2 STORE Dried meats have a very dressing and shavings long shelf life of many months as long of cheese. as conditions are not humid. Keep, unwrapped, in a dry, well-ventilated place, or wrapped in the fridge. 3 EAT Dried meats are usually eaten raw, as snacks or as antipasti and hors d’oeuvres. Less commonly they may be cooked by grilling or lightly frying in oil, or be used in baking. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Hard cheeses, cream, gherkins, fresh figs, white beans, red onions, olive oil. Bündnerfleisch Once it is dried, Carne de sol Also called viande des Grisons, this is bündnerfleisch A speciality from dried beef made in Switzerland’s Grisons is pressed into a northeastern Brazil, where region. The meat is boned, marinated rectangular shape, it is also known as jabá, in wine with salt and spices, and then so yields very this is beef that is salted air-dried. It is not normally smoked. uniform, thin slices. and then left to dry in the sun (the name means “meat of the sun”). Often studded with spices, the outside of biltong is quite hard. The interior is less hard and should be able to be cut with a sharp knife. Biltong Of South African origin, the thick strips or slices of beef or game meat are marinated in vinegar- based liquid, then salted and dried.

A I R -DRIED MEAT | 1 6 7 Jerky This is a popular North American dried meat snack. The thin slices of wild or domestic meat (usually beef ) are often marinated in spicy dressings before drying and are sometimes then smoked. The meat should be a Charqui rich dark colour and This South American salted and wind-dried meat is usually made not too hard. from llama, beef, or horse. Slinzega Pemmican Like bresaola, this is also made in Made from pounding dried Valtellina but using smaller strips game meats with melted fat of meat, traditionally horse but and often berries, pemmican is increasingly venison or pork. traditional to Native Americans and is still marketed. Kuivaliha To make kuivaliha, strips of Lomo embuchado meat, often reindeer or venison, Lomo embuchado is a Spanish are dried over a few weeks dry-cured and air-dried loin of in Finland when the spring pork. It is usually served in thin weather is appropriate. slices in cold collations and as It is also called kapaliha. snacks in bars. Cecina Often beef from the hind legs, but also traditionally made with horse meat, cecina is salted, flattened, sometimes sun-dried, and usually smoked. Cecina de Leon (pictured) is a famous Spanish variety, normally served as a first course or added to a variety of cooked dishes as a final garnish.

1 6 8 | M E AT | C U R E D M E AT A N D S A U S AG E S FRESH SAUSAGES 3 EAT Fresh sausages are always Cumberland sausage is cooked, normally by frying, grilling, sold in a continuous Fresh sausages are generally made by or barbecuing, occasionally coil or as long, forcing seasoned, minced or chopped, roasted, to caramelize curved sausages. uncured meat (sausage meat) into a the casing. natural casing (such as intestine or neck skin) or an artificial casing, although FLAVOUR PAIRINGS there are also sausages prepared without casing. Recipes vary widely Potatoes, white beans, in the meat and seasonings used, and onions, apples, goose whether some sort of starchy filler is fat, sage, mustard, added (which is common in the UK), tomato ketchup. as well as in the proportion of lean to fat; however, sausages tend to be high CLASSIC RECIPES in fat so they can be fried or grilled successfully. Some fresh sausages are Toad-in-the-hole; cassoulet; sold lightly smoked. lenticchie con salsiccie; 1 BUY Available from butchers and medister; mixed grill. supermarkets, sausages are normally bought by weight, loose or pre-packed. Cumberland sausage 2 STORE Keep in the fridge and use The high meat content of this within a few days of purchase. Or English chopped pork sausage freeze for up to 6 months. gives it a firm, dense texture. Fry or grill like other fresh sausages. Pork sausage Beef sausages should be Standard British pork sausages quite dark in colour, have a minimum of 42 per cent reflecting their high pork, one-third of which may be meat content. fat, plus fillers and seasonings such as herbs and spices. Beef sausage Generally the higher the meat Beef sausages are content the better the sausage. generally leaner than pork sausages and with a drier German bratwurst texture. Better quality sausages are A spicy, fine-textured sausage high in meat content but still need made from veal, beef, or pork, sufficient fat content so they can be this is probably the most popular fried or grilled. sausage in Germany. Almost always sold fresh, occasionally Merguez sausage smoked. Fry or poach and then Made from lamb, beef, or both, in grill. Delicious with stewed apples. lamb casings, this highly spiced North African sausage is often eaten with couscous. Its red colour is due to chilli. There are many regional variations of bratwurst in Germany, with different sizes and ingredients.

Saucisse de Morteau FRESH SAUSAGES | 169 Like saucisse de Montbéliard, this fresh Saucisse de Toulouse French pork sausage is Made from pork shoulder and belly, this cold-smoked before sale. coarse-textured French sausage is a Wild boar sausage classic ingredient in cassoulets. Wild boar are among the fattier game species so they can readily Cotechino be made into sausages, usually A speciality of Modena, with the addition of a little pork cotechino (or cotecchino or fat. They have a meaty flavour coteghino) is a large pork and quite a dense texture. sausage flavoured with white wine and garlic. It is often served with lentils or cannellini beans at New Year. Andouillette Chorizo fresco These popular French sausages have a The uncooked version of the well-known unique flavour and texture, crumbling Spanish sausage is normally made with finely into separate morsels when eaten. They minced pork, but other meats may be used. It are usually fried to serve with pommes is usually removed from the casing before frites and mustard. cooking, lending its spice and colour to Mexican and Spanish dishes. Venison sausage Venison sausages are often low in fat with a consequent meaty flavour and dense texture. Most have pork fat added to the mixture. They are normally fried, grilled, or baked. Venison sausages can replace pork or beef sausages in many recipes. Andouillettes are made of pork or veal tripe and intestine.

1 7 0 | M E AT | C U R E D M E AT A N D S A U S AG E S Crépinette COOKED AND French crépinettes (sometimes called PART-COOKED SAUSAGES FRESH SAUSAGES (CONTINUED) fricandeaux) are small, flat sausages wrapped in caul fat. They may be sold ready cooked to There is a great variety of sausages sold Chipolata eat cold, or raw for roasting and eating hot. part-cooked or part-cured, which need These small, thin sausages to be further cooked before eating, as are popular in France and well as those sold fully cooked or Britain. Normally pork, they cured and ready to eat. The processing may also be made from may entail boiling, blanching, smoking, other meats such as or drying. Where sausages are boiled beef and venison. or poached before being sold they are sometimes called puddings; it is Being thin, chipolatas customary to reheat these for eating. cook more quickly than 1 BUY Both part-cooked and cooked regular fresh sausages. sausages should look moist, not wet, and smell fresh and pleasant. Chair à saucisse 2 STORE Keep part-cooked sausages This is the meat used for stuffing in the fridge for no more than a week, sausages. It may be made from any meat unless prepacked; cooked sausages can but should be coarsely minced or chopped be kept for up to 2 weeks. Or freeze and with enough fat to permit frying or for up to 6 months. grilling. It can be made into patties or 3 EAT Poach part-cooked sausages or, meatballs, or used to stuff poultry. if they have a high enough fat content, fry, grill, or bake. Add to other dishes such as hearty soups and casseroles. Depending on their type and texture, fully cooked sausages can be used in antipasti, salads, sandwiches, soups, stews, and many other dishes. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Turnips, onions, potatoes, red cabbage, white beans, tomatoes, apples, dried fruits, mustard. CLASSIC RECIPES Fabada; haggis and neeps; black pudding with apple; himmel und erde; bigos polski; bollito misto. Saucisse de Montbéliard Lorne sausage is Lorne sausage Meaty and dense saucisse de Montbéliard is a fresh moulded into a loaf Also know as slicing sausage, this pork sausage that is cold-smoked. Cooked either by Scottish skinless sausage may be grilling or boiling, it is often eaten with sauerkraut. and sliced into made from beef or pork. It is squares for frying. often quite strongly peppered and is served fried for breakfast, sometimes in a bread roll.

C O O K E D A N D PA RT- C O O K E D S A U S A G E S | 1 7 1 CLASSIC RECIPE FABADA From Spain, this is a rich and spicy bean stew with lots of meaty sausage and bacon. Serve with crusty bread. Boudin noir Boudin noir is The French version of black richly coloured pudding contains little or no with pig’s blood. cereals but usually has cubes of pork fat and sometimes Boudin blanc SERVES 4 meat, as well as apple, onion, Like other puddings, boudins blancs are 250g (9oz) morcilla (Spanish chestnut, or other ingredients. sold ready-cooked by poaching and are black pudding) Boudin noir is normally sliced then usually further cooked by frying. 250g (9oz) chorizo and fried before serving. They are made with pork, chicken, veal, 250g (9oz) thick-cut tocino, streaky or rabbit and often enriched with cream bacon rashers, or pancetta The speckled appearance and eggs. 1 tbsp olive oil of a white pudding is due 4 tbsp red wine to black pepper and 2 x 400g cans white beans, drained toasted oatmeal. pinch of saffron powder 1 bay leaf Saveloy 500ml (16fl oz) chicken stock Similar to a frankfurter, the saveloy is prepared with lightly cured pork, cereal White pudding 1 Cut the morcilla, chorizo, and filler, and seasonings and then smoked. It White puddings contain animal fats but no tocino, bacon, or pancetta into large is popular as a take-away snack in the UK meat. In Scotland a white pudding is known chunks. Heat the oil in a large as well as Australia and New Zealand. as mealie pudding; the mixture without the saucepan, add the sausages and casing is called skirlie. Battered and bacon, and fry, stirring, over a deep-fried, they are often sold in fish and medium–low heat for 2 minutes. chip shops. Increase the heat, add the wine, and allow it to bubble and reduce for 2–3 minutes. 2 Stir in the beans, saffron, bay leaf, and just enough chicken stock to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer for 30 minutes. Serve hot. Modern black puddings are often sold in black synthetic skins rather than the authentic intestine. Black or blood pudding Rich British black pudding is made from blood, usually pig’s, plus a filler like breadcrumbs or oatmeal, cubes of pork fat, and seasonings. It is simmered and sold cooked. Sauté slices to serve with mashed potatoes.

1 7 2 | M E AT | C U R E D M E AT A N D S A U S AG E S Chouriço de sangue This Portuguese black pudding can be COOKED AND PART-COOKED SAUSAGES (CONTINUED) made entirely from blood but is usually made from similar The colour of a ingredients to Spanish morcilla and kishka is influenced other blood puddings: rice, cereals, onions, pieces of pork fat, and so on. by the quantity of It may be eaten cold with other meats paprika used. or cooked and used in casseroles. Kishka From Eastern Europe, kishka can be made with a great variety of fillings, usually including blood, sometimes liver. The vegetable base is normally buckwheat but may also be barley or even potato. Sold cooked, they are normally further cooked before eating. Morcilla de Burgos Morcilla is an When sliced the pieces Perhaps the most renowned of the Spanish black essential ingredients of foie gras can be seen puddings, this uses rice as the filler. Other varieties in the Spanish bean include onions, pine nuts, or almonds as well as pig’s stew fabada. surrounded by the blood, pork fat, and seasonings. Like other black goose-meat stuffing. puddings morcilla is sold cooked, but is normally further cooked before eating. Stuffed goose neck For this French delicacy (cou d’oie farci), the skin of the goose neck is stuffed with goose or duck meat, foie gras, truffles, morel, and so on. It is sold cooked and ready to slice and eat. Like crépinettes, faggots are small sausage parcels wrapped in caul fat. Haslet Traditional English recipes for haslet wrap a mixture of seasoned pork, minced onions, and a cereal-based filler in pig’s caul, then bake. Serve slices with a salad or use in sandwiches.

C O O K E D A N D PA RT- C O O K E D S A U S A G E S | 1 7 3 Mortadella di Bologna This very large sausage is traditionally made from finely minced, seasoned pork, often studded with cubes of fat, peppercorns, or pistachio nuts. That from Bologna is considered to be the best. Sold sliced and ready to eat, it is usually served as an antipasto. Some chouriço de Haggis sangue is coloured a Loved by Scots everywhere, haggis is rich red by the addition made by coarsely mincing sheep’s liver, of paprika. heart, and lights with onions, beef suet, oatmeal, and seasonings; stuffing this The skin containing the into a sheep’s stomach; boiling. haggis may still be the Bought cooked, haggis only needs stomach of a sheep but to be heated through. is more often now the large intestine of cattle. Blutwurst The best-known German black pudding, Faggots this has many regional variations, some English faggots are made from minced pig’s of which are smoked. All contain pig’s offal, salt pork, or bacon, and a cereal filler blood, plus meats such as bacon and plus seasonings such as nutmeg and onion. calf ’s or pig’s offal. Blutwurst is often Delicious when home-made and slowly baked. served hot with boiled potatoes.

1 7 4 | M E AT | C U R E D M E AT A N D S A U S AG E S COOKED AND PART-COOKED SAUSAGES Unlike American frankfurters, German frankfurters are normally sold in a casing. Bologna Braunschweiger Sold ready to eat, this large Braunschweiger is a smoked pork liver sausage is made from highly sausage, sometimes incorporating beef, that seasoned, finely minced meat is enriched with eggs. The texture is soft and and fat. The meat is usually pork it is usually eaten spread on bread. but can be poultry or beef. Unlike the American version, Italian bologna sausage (pictured) has visible pieces of fat. Diots The colour of knackwurst These Savoyard sausages, is influenced by the extent usually made of pork and of the smoking. vegetables including beetroot, are either grilled or poached German knackwurst in wine. Diots are also sold This fat, stumpy beef and pork sausage smoked or dried. is flavoured with cumin and garlic, often highly spiced. Cold-smoked, it needs to be cooked before eating.

C O O K E D A N D PA RT- C O O K E D S A U S A G E S | 1 7 5 American bratwurst Nicknamed “brats”, these were originally made from minced pork and veal but now have a smoother texture. Usually fresh, they are sometimes sold pre-cooked or smoked. A guide to quality is the finely minced texture of the filling: it should not be a paste. German frankfurter Made from finely ground mixed pork and beef, this is a slim, lightly smoked sausage. Simmer gently to serve with potato salad and sweet German mustard. American knackwurst Like its German counterpart, this is a short, fat, garlicky sausage made from highly seasoned beef and/or pork, and smoked. Kielbasa A large variety of Eastern European sausages take this name. They are usually garlicky, and may be smoked or fresh. In Poland, lightly smoked kielbasa is eaten with braised cabbage or used in the hearty stew called bigos. Cajun andouille American frankfurter In the US the This North American version of Also known as hot dog and frankfurter is usually pork andouille is heavily spiced wiener, this smoked sausage sold skinless. and smoked, and used in may be made from pork, beef, traditional Cajun dishes such as veal, or poultry and comes in jambalaya. all sizes. Although precooked it must be reheated for serving.

1 7 6 | M E AT | C U R E D M E AT A N D S A U S AG E S COOKED AND PART-COOKED SAUSAGES (CONTINUED) German bockwurst Traditionally made in the spring from minced veal and pork, this now uses lamb, poultry, or even horse meat. It is often smoked. Cervelas The skin colour of Swiss A meaty Swiss or cervelas is a result of the German smoked smoking process. sausage, cervelas is made from finely minced German mettwurst beef, pork, pork rind, Made from minced pork, cured and bacon in natural and smoked, this sausage may be casings. There is also a soft enough to spread or coarse in pure pork French version. texture, and can be eaten raw. Leberwurst A creamy-textured liver sausage, this incorporates pork liver, lean meat, offal, bacon, and spices. Occasionally, chicken or veal replace the pork. It is sometimes smoked. Teewurst Saucisse de Strasbourg Because of its high fat content, this Also known as “knack”, this spicy, smoked pork or beef and smoked pork sausage from bacon sausage is easy to spread. Alsace is similar to the frankfurter. It is poached American bockwurst before eating. With a smoother texture than the German original, this herb-flavoured sausage is sometimes known as a “white hot dog”. It is sold partially cooked or smoked, as well as fresh. Like the similar American German weisswurst, mettwurst American bockwurst Usually made of pork and is very white. sometimes beef, this cured, smoked sausage has a soft, spreadable texture. It is sold ready to eat.

DRIED AND SEMI-DRIED SAUSAGES DRIED AND SEMI-DRIED SAUSAGES | 177 Usually made from cured meats and fat they will keep for a long time. Genoa salami can be packed in casings, sausages preserved Keep packed slices in the fridge. recognized by the by drying do not need to be cooked 3 EAT The casing is normally not rippled edge, made by before eating. Those dried completely, eaten. Slice thinly for appetizers; a cord wrapping. such as salami-type sausages, have a add to salads; or scatter over very firm, even hard texture. Before or pizzas. Use to flavour sauces, after drying, sausages may be smoked rice dishes, stews, and pastries. to add extra flavour. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cheese, 1 BUY They are sold both whole and tomatoes, gherkins, black olives. sliced in packs. White powder on the CLASSIC RECIPES Pepperoni exterior of the casing improves flavour. pizza; fabada; paella valenciana. 2 STORE Hang whole sausages in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place where Fuet catalan Salame di Genoa Delicious as tapas, this is a Made from pork and veal and long, thin, cured pork sausage moistened with red wine, this is a from Catalonia. garlicky air-dried sausage with a high fat content. Cacciatorini This small, dried, pork and beef Salame di Felino sausage is so-named (“hunter Handmade near Parma from salami”) because hunters could carry pure pork and pork fat, this is it in their pockets for snacks. seasoned with white wine, garlic, and peppercorns. Salami secchi Most types of Italian dried sausages Salame di Milano contain pork and pork fat, with other Milan’s traditional dried sausage is meats including beef, horse, turkey, made with fat and lean pork with and venison. The meats are cured beef or veal, seasoned with garlic, before packing into casings. pepper, and wine. It is one of the best-known of the Italian salami. Whole peppercorns are The fat should be in often included. small pieces and evenly distributed throughout the sausage.

1 7 8 | M E AT | C U R E D M E AT A N D S A U S AG E S DRIED AND SEMI-DRIED SAUSAGES (CONTINUED) Jésus de Lyon Linguiça A very large, pure-pork, French Much-loved in both Portugal and in Brazil, saucisson sec, this contains linguiça is a cured pork sausage seasoned coarsely chopped meat with with onions, garlic, and paprika. The American large pieces of fat. It has version has to be cooked before eating. an excellent flavour. Landjäger Lap cheong One of Germany’s many air-dried and High in fat, Chinese dried sausages smoked sausages, this is prepared from are often seasoned with soy sauce, pork, beef, fat, sugar, and spices. It is sugar, and rice wine, and smoked. normally cut into chunks for eating. La Chang is a pork sausage. Lebanon Bologna This semi-dried, slow-cured, and smoked beef sausage is a Pennsylvania Dutch speciality. It has a sweet, tangy flavour. Morcón Chorizo This is a widely available, Spanish dried Semi-dried and dried Spanish chorizo sausage containing chunks of lean pork, are generally made from pork and pork usually flavoured with paprika and garlic. fat spiced with smoked paprika to give Morcón Ibérico uses meat from Iberian pigs. either spicy (picante) or mild, sweet (dulce) flavours. Nduja Unlike other dried sausages, this Nduja’s deep colour very spicy Calabrian speciality indicates the quantity of has a spreadable consistency. chilli used and hence It is made from pork flavoured the very strong spicing. with roasted red chillies.

DRIED AND SEMI-DRIED SAUSAGES | 179 Rosette de Lyon Salchichón The high fat content of A prized French saucisson sec made from From Spain, this is a large, meaty sausage this sausage enables it diced cured and seasoned pork shoulder. It made of lean pork and pork belly, seasoned, to retain its moisture for is matured slowly and has a moist texture lightly smoked, and dried. many months. due to the fat content. The irregular shape of Sujuk is seasoned with the slices is due to the a variety of flavourings, strings that hold the usually including cumin sausage as it dries. and garlic. Sujuk A dry sausage eaten from the Balkans to Central Asia, this is usually made from beef but may include other meats including horse. It is normally sliced and fried before eating. Sopressata From southern Italy, these salami consist of pork, or less commonly beef, that is pressed or minced and spiced before casing and air-drying for 3–12 weeks. Reddish-orange colour suggests a sausage with strong, spicy seasoning. Pepperoni Saucisse sèche d’Auverge A small, mildly or highly Pork is usually the main meat used spiced salami made from in this small air-dried sausage from cured pork, this is popular the Auvergne region of France. as a pizza topping. Téliszalámi This spicy Hungarian salami is made from meat of the Mangalitsa pig, air-dried during the cold winter months, and then smoked. The artificial casing is A good téliszalámi will removed before eating. have fat evenly Summer sausage distributed in the meat. In the US, this is the generic term for dried and semi-dried, usually smoked, German-style sausages. Summer sausage is mildly seasoned and moist.



VEGETABLES BRASSICAS | LEAFY GREENS | ROOTS AND TUBERS | SHOOTS AND STEMS | BULBS | PODS MUSHROOMS | SEA VEGETABLES

1 8 2 | V E G E TA B L E S VEGETABLE ESSENTIALS Vegetables are the foundation of a healthy diet, and they are STORE at their freshest, tastiest, and most nutritious when they are in season and locally grown by sustainable methods. In season, Different vegetables store for varying lengths of time, depending vegetables reach their flavour peak. That’s also when they are on their type. Delicate leafy vegetables store best wrapped loosely most abundant and most economical. Local farmers are likely in a moist paper towel inside a closed plastic bag or refrigerator- to grow the most flavourful varieties, including heritage storage container. Root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips varieties that have been selected by generations of farmers keep well in an open, plastic bag in the salad drawer of the and gardeners for their superior qualities. Local growers are refrigerator. Vegetables such as bell peppers and cabbage store often organic or sustainable, too, choosing farming methods well in paper bags rolled shut and placed in the salad drawer. that protect the environment and preserve the soil’s natural Some vegetables store best at room temperature in the dark, fertility without the use of agricultural chemicals. such as potatoes, while others need a basket to contain them, such as onions. Tomatoes will continue to ripen when placed on a BUY windowsill. All vegetables begin to lose freshness as soon as they are harvested, but this happens fairly rapidly depending on their Good colour Buy vegetables that have bright, vibrant colours type. If you can only use part of a vegetable, store the remainder with no yellowing – especially in cauliflowers and leafy greens. wrapped snugly in cling film in the refrigerator. There should be no bruising, discoloration, blemishes, soft spots, cuts, or pits, and no suggestion of mould growth. Firmness The vegetable should feel firm and heavy in the hand; lighter vegetables may be drying out. Tight skin Loose skin also indicates that the vegetable is drying out, so look for taut, firm skin. Fresh ends To ensure freshness and the quality it implies, check the cut ends of vegetables that have been harvested from a root or mother plant. The cut should look fresh and moist, not dried out. Leaves should be glossy and mid-ribs turgid. Smell The vegetable should have a clean, fresh smell. Choose vibrant-coloured tomatoes with firm flesh and Select green, leafy vegetables that tight skin that have that distinctive smell of the tomato plant. have crisp, fresh-looking, green leaves with no yellow colouring, and firm mid-ribs.

V E G E TA B L E E S S E N T I A L S | 1 8 3 PREPARE it is often sufficient to wash them well. Delay washing and peeling until just before use, as exposure to air and moisture Some vegetables need peeling to remove the skin, because it is will cause the vegetables to deteriorate, and lose their vitamins. tough, tastes bitter, may contain traces of pesticides; or purely for personal preference. With vegetables where peeling is unnecessary, PEEL Vegetable peels range from Squash has a particularly tough skin that WASH Most vegetables are Leeks collect soil between the layers, so tough to tender, and they often needs removing before the flesh is sliced into best washed with lukewarm tap it is important to wash the inside thoroughly contain more nutrients and flavour chunks. Use a vegetable peeler to do this. water and a soft-bristled brush. before use. Shake off any excess water. compounds than the flesh inside. Where brushing isn’t To preserve flavour and conserve appropriate, swish vegetables in nutrients, cook vegetables with a pan of water. Some markets the skin on. If you need to peel the sell food-safe cleansers to vegetable, remove the skin after remove oil-based pesticides, the food has cooled. One of the waxy preservatives, and oil chief reasons people peel their from the hands of employees vegetables is to remove impurities and customers who have or agricultural chemical residues. handled the vegetables. CUTTING Vegetables are not produced in a uniform shape, so cutting pieces depends on how you are going to use the vegetables in recipes them up is not the same for every variety. The size and shape of the cut – whether as chunks, as elegant side dishes, or as a garnish. Cut batonnets Cut diamonds 1 Cut vegetables into 5mm (¼in) thick slices, 2 Cut across the width of the strips to make 1 Slice the vegetable in half down the length 2 Start at the white root and cut diagonally then cut into 5mm (¼in) wide strips. batonnets 4–5cm (1½–2in) long. and lay each piece flat-side down on the board. along the length into diamond-shaped pieces. Shred Dice Slice greens Rub the vegetable down the length of Cut vegetables into strips of equal 1 Using a sharp chef ’s knife, cut out the tough 2 Roll up the leaves into a sausage shape and a grater, choosing the hole size that gives you width and thickness, then cut them into dice, of mid-rib by slicing along the length on each side. slice across the roll to make even strips. the size you prefer; or shred in a food processor. the same length as the width and thickness. Julienne Slice with a mandolin Turn carrots Making juliennes is similar to cutting Mandolins will produce very thin slices or 1 Use a turning knife to start shaving off the 2 Continue to turn the carrot in your hands batonnets, but slices should be 3mm (⅛in) batons. Use one with adjustable blades to cut sides of 5cm (2in) pieces of carrot. while cutting, to create a seven-sided football. thick, then cut into strips 3mm (⅛in) wide. at any thickness. The blades are very sharp.

1 8 4 | V E G E TA B L E S GRILL A delicious and healthy way to eat vegetables. Most are COOK suitable for grilling, but some, such as carrots and potato, may Some vegetables can be eaten raw, but many need cooking to break down the starch and cellulose need par-boiling first. they contain, thereby making them digestible. Any form of cooking – boiling, grilling, frying, steaming – will achieve this, but texture and nutrients are best preserved if the cooking is as brief as possible. BOIL Do not boil vegetables for too long, to avoid colour and nutrients leaching into the cooking water. Generally, starchy vegetables should be started in cold water, green ones should be added to boiling water. 1 While the pan of water is heating, rinse the 2 When the water is boiling, add the 3 Once cooked to the desired texture, drain vegetables to be boiled in a colander. Shake vegetables in small handfuls, bring the water the vegetables and rinse them under cold off any excess water. back to the boil, then simmer until cooked. running water to stop them cooking further. DEEP-FRY This is a great way to cook wafer-thin slices of vegetables such as potatoes, carrots, and beetroot, for tasty results. More delicate vegetables may cook better when coated in a tempura batter to protect them from the hot fat. If the ingredients are cooked very quickly, they will absorb the minimum amount of fat. 1 Heat the oil until a small vegetable piece 2 Cook until the desired texture is reached 3 Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon, Heat a griddle or a barbecue grill to drain on paper towels, and sprinkle with salt. a high heat for 15–20 minutes, scrub it dropped into it sizzles, then add the vegetables. – they should be crisp and golden-brown. with a wire brush, then brush over vegetable oil. Reduce the heat to the desired level then add the vegetables, brushed with a little oil on each side. Chargrill for 4–5 minutes, turning them over halfway through. They should be crisp but just tender when done. STIR-FRY A delicious and healthy way to get the best out of SAUTÉ Another quick method of cooking in which vegetables are ingredients, the secret to successful stir-frying is speed. Cooking fast fried in a small amount of oil in a large frying pan. The fat should be at at a high heat ensures that the texture, flavour, and nutrients of food a high heat as you add the vegetables, which should be moved around are preserved, and that minimum oil is needed to cook them. continually during cooking. For best results, do not crowd the pan. 1 Heat a tablespoon or two of vegetable oil in 2 Stir the vegetables often, moving them up 1 Set the pan over a high heat and add some 2 Cook the vegetables in batches, if necessary, a wok or stir-fry pan until the oil is hot but not the sides of the pan to reduce their exposure smoking. Add the vegetables that take longest to the heat. When all the vegetables are vegetable oil or butter. Once the fat is heated, and stir them around the pan often. Sauté until to cook first, then keep adding the others. added, stir constantly until all are lightly cooked. toss in the vegetables. the vegetables are browned and tender.

ESSENTIAL TECHNIQUES | 185 STEAM This is one of the healthiest methods of cooking vegetables. ROAST Roasting vegetables allows them to retain all their delicious As the ingredients do not touch the water in the pan, there is no loss of flavours and to take on a new texture. This method uses the dry heat nutrients and the vegetables retain more of their flavour and texture. of the oven and gives the vegetables a delicious golden-brown exterior. Roasting in a pan with a little vegetable oil in the bottom improves the flavour of diced root vegetables and winter squashes, among other vegetables. You can add extra flavour by tossing in some fresh herbs, too. 1 Place 3cm (1in) of water and a steaming 2 Allow the vegetables to steam to the desired basket in a large pot with a lid. Add the firmness – test them with the sharp point of vegetables, cover, and turn the heat to high. a knife. Be careful not to overcook them. PRESERVE FREEZE Hard vegetables such as carrots, beans, broccoli, peas, Vegetables taste much better when they are in season, so it is worth preserving them and their and sweetcorn, can all be frozen. flavours for the months when they are not available fresh. Some vegetables are best dried, others Freeze cut and prepared pickled, and many can be frozen. Preserve vegetables only at the peak of freshness. vegetables on the day of purchase to retain all their PICKLE As well as a method of flavours, textures, and nutrients. preservation, pickling is popularly used to add a sweet–sour tang to vegetables. It is important when pickling to use clean, sterilized jars. Most soft vegetables can be pickled raw, but hard roots need to be cooked to soften them. Place vegetables in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and fill the jar with a vinegar-based pickling solution. DRY This method involves drying vegetables such as tomatoes, mushrooms, and squash, as well as some fruits, to help retain their nutrients and intensify their flavours. To do this you need a dehydrator, which will keep the vegetables at the recommended temperature of below 48°C (118°F). 1 Slice the prepared vegetables to the desired 2 Arrange the slices on the drying tray, allowing 3 The slices are ready when they are crisp, not Blanch or cook vegetables before freezing them, well spaced out, on covered thickness. Thinner slices dry more quickly. no overlap. Brush lightly with olive oil. flexible. Cool, then store in airtight containers. trays. Once frozen, divide them into meal-sized portions and return to the freezer in freezer bags or other containers.

1 8 6 | V E G E TA B L E S | B R A S S I CA S CABBAGE 2 STORE Whole heads can be kept steam. Preserved: Sauerkraut is CLASSIC RECIPE for a month or two in plastic bags in the classic way to preserve cabbage. Native to the Atlantic coast of Europe, the vegetable drawer of the fridge. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, sausage, BRAISED RED and shores of the Mediterranean, today 3 EAT Fresh: Shred red, green or salt beef, poultry, pork, ham, garlic, CABBAGE cabbages are grown around the world white cabbage for salads. Cooked: horseradish, juniper berries, potatoes, in temperate zones. The leaves of some Boiling releases sulphurous compounds almonds, nutmeg, caraway seeds, A traditional sweet-and-sour German varieties are loose, but most make that many people find unpleasant, yet coriander, mustard, sugar. accompaniment, often served with compact heads of various sizes and this is probably the most common way CLASSIC RECIPES Braised red sausages, duck, goose, and game. shapes, with smooth or crinkled leaves of cooking cabbage. Cook until just cabbage; coleslaw; New England of different colours. When properly tender: cabbage smells “cabbagey” boiled dinner; colcannon; bubble and SERVES 4 cooked, cabbage has a sweet flavour. when it has been overcooked. squeak; stuffed cabbage; choucroute; 1 BUY Although cabbage is available Alternatively, steam, stir-fry, sauté, chou rouge à la Flamande; Ribollita 2 streaky smoked bacon rashers, diced year-round, it is at its best in winter. bake, or braise; stuff and roll leaves, or soup; zuppa di pane e cavolo; Look for solid heads with a clean, fresh stuff whole heads, then simmer or stamppot met spek. 1 onion, finely chopped smell and no yellowed outer leaves. The cut end should be moist, not dry. 1 tbsp sugar Pointed cabbage 1 large tart apple, peeled, cored, The tender, sweet leaves of these cabbages and chopped (Hispi shown here) form a long, pointed head. 900g (2lb) red cabbage, quartered, cored, White cabbage and shredded crossways Also known as Dutch cabbage, this makes a firm head 60ml (2fl oz) red wine vinegar of tightly packed leaves with a solid core. It has a sweet taste, and salt keeps particularly well. 1 In a large frying pan or flameproof casserole, fry the bacon over a low heat until it renders its fat. Add the onion and cook for about 5 minutes, or until softened. Stir in the sugar and cook for another 5 minutes, or until the mixture is golden. Add the apple. Cover and cook for 3–4 minutes, stirring occasionally. 2 Add the cabbage to the pan. Toss to coat with the bacon fat, then stir in the vinegar. Cover again and cook over a low heat for 10 minutes. 3 Add a little salt and 150ml (5fl oz) water. Cover and simmer over a medium–low heat, stirring occasionally, for 1–1¼ hours, or until the cabbage is tender. Season to taste and serve hot. PREPARING LOOSE-LEAVED Round cabbage CABBAGE Also known as ball-head This shredding technique is suitable for all cabbage, this can be eaten looser-leaved varieties: Savoy, Round, and Pointed. raw and cooked, as most varieties of cabbage can, 1 but best suits stir-frying 2 and braising. 3 1 Discard any limp or discoloured leaves. Wash well in cold water, and pat dry on kitchen paper. 2 Using a sharp knife, slash each leaf at an angle on either side of the rib. Remove and discard the rib. 3 Roll up large leaves and cut across into shreds of the desired width. Leave smaller, tender leaves whole.

CABBAGE | BRUSSELS SPROUTS | 187 Red cabbage Offering beautiful, vibrant colour, red cabbage is sweeter than white but the leaves are tougher so they take longer to cook. Flat cabbage Colour will turn blue unless Widely popular in the Middle East, acid fruit, vinegar, or wine are the flattened, white heads of this type have a mild, sweet flavour. used when cooking. The steamed leaves make Savoy cabbage excellent wrappers for The attractively crinkled leaves stuffed cabbage rolls. are more loosely wrapped round the head than those of other cabbages BRUSSELS SPROUTS should look fresh and moist, and there FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon and and are more full-bodied in flavour. should be no noticeable odour. pancetta, cream, cheese, apples, lemon, The Brussels sprout was bred from 2 STORE Like other members of the almonds, chestnuts, pine nuts, thyme. Look for tight, small a cabbage, selected for its habit of cabbage family, sprouts start turning CLASSIC RECIPES Brussels heads, with no yellow producing small side heads when bitter as soon as they are harvested. sprouts with bacon; outer leaeves. the main head is harvested. Brussels Use on the day of purchase, or store Brussels sprouts sprouts produce, in effect, miniature for no more than a week in a closed with chestnuts. heads of cabbage along a tall stalk. plastic bag in the fridge. They will Although a biennial, it is grown freeze well. everywhere in cool, temperate 3 EAT Fresh: Slice thinly and add climates as an annual. It has the flavour to coleslaw or a green salad. Cooked: of a sweet cabbage. Take care only to cook them until 1 BUY Peak season for quality is tender (test them with the point of winter, as frosts sweeten up sprouts. a knife). Overcooked sprouts develop Usually they are sold loose, but if you an off-putting smell and will eventually can find sprouts still on the stalk, these disintegrate. Steam, bake, boil, sauté, will be the best. Look for tight, small and braise whole sprouts; or shred heads, slightly smaller than a golf ball: and stir-fry. the smaller the sprout, the better the flavour. Yellowed outer leaves are a sign that the sprouts are old. The cut ends

1 8 8 | V E G E TA B L E S | B R A S S I CA S CAULIFLOWER Common cauliflower When dividing into Cauliflower has a mild cabbage-like florets, slice any thick ones This relative of the cabbage is grown flavour when raw, becoming rich and lengthways through the stalk in tropical and temperate climates savoury when roasted. The tight so they will cook in the same throughout the world. While some crunchy curds add pleasing texture time as smaller florets. varieties are green, purple, and orange, to curries and stir-fries. and sometimes pointed in shape, the Romanesco most familiar type of cauliflower is a Admired for its intriguing round, white head of densely packed spirals, Romanesco is one of the curds, or florets. The curds are in fact best-tasting cauliflowers – nutty, the compacted tips of branching, meaty, and slightly sweet. The unopened flowerheads. Cauliflower texture is soft and creamy. has a mild flavour when raw, becoming nutty when it is cooked. 1 BUY Autumn is the season for the choicest cauliflower. Choose snow- white rather than creamy or yellowish heads. Reject any with brown spots or green leaves protruding through the curds, both ssigns of declining quality. Make sure the cut ends are fresh. 2 STORE Try to use cauliflower soon after you buy it, although it can be kept, loosely wrapped in a paper bag, in the fridge for 3–4 days. 3 EAT Fresh: Separate into small florets for salads and crudités. Cooked: Boil or steam whole or in florets; florets can also be roasted, baked in sauce, coated in batter and deep-fried, or sautéed. Preserved: Pickle with other vegetables or use in chutney. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Brown butter, Gruyère cheese, wheatgerm, garlic, hollandaise sauce, olive oil, parsley, lemon. CLASSIC RECIPES Moroccan lamb and cauliflower stew; Pennsylvania Dutch chow-chow; cauliflower cheese; fried cauliflower; cavolfiore stracciato; Choufleur à la polonaise; gefüllte blumenkohl. The tender and delicate curds are best lightly steamed or roasted as they disintegrate easily.

CAULIFLOWER | BROCCOLI | 189 Baby cauliflower BROCCOLI autumn through winter to spring. CLASSIC RECIPE The same variety as full-sized With dark green broccoli, the heads cauliflower, baby heads are kept small by Broccoli, a relative of the cabbage, is should be dense, with no separation CHINESE STIR-FRIED crowding their growing conditions. They widely grown in temperate climates in between the green buds and no BROCCOLI make a fine addition to trays of crudités, many parts of the world, particularly yellow flowers showing: the presence stir-fries, and steamed vegetable mixtures. in the cooler regions. Like its cousin of even one flower means the plant is Serve this easy Chinese vegetable the cauliflower, it is made up of the turning fibrous and woody. Sprouting- dish with grilled meats, poultry, or unopened flower heads of the plant. broccoli types should have firm stalks fish, and some steamed sticky rice. In the familiar dark green broccoli, also and fresh leaves. Cut ends should look called calabrese, the buds are tightly moist, not split and dried out. SERVES 4 packed in large, pebbly heads, whereas 2 STORE Broccoli will keep well in a in sprouting species the buds, which plastic bag in the vegetable drawer of 1 tbsp sesame seeds may be purple, white, or green, are the fridge for 3–4 days. in groups on individual long, slender 3 EAT Fresh: Broccoli can be 1 tbsp vegetable oil stalks. Very similar, although more leafy, separated into small florets and peeled is broccoli di rape, also called broccoli strips of stalk to eat raw, in salads or as 1 tbsp light soy sauce raab, or cime di rapa in Italy. Dark crudités. Cooked: Boil or steam, bake green broccoli has a fine texture and in sauce, braise, coat in batter and pinch of dried chilli flakes a light cabbage-like flavour with a hint deep-fry, stir-fry, or sauté. of sweetness; sprouting broccoli is FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, 700g (9oz) broccoli (calabrese), florets sweeter and more tender. Broccoli di anchovies, cheese, pesto, hollandaise separated and stalks thinly sliced rape is the least sweet of the types, sauce, lemon, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil. with a pleasant, zesty bite. CLASSIC RECIPES Chinese stir-fried 4 tbsp vegetable stock or water 1 BUY Although available year-round, broccoli; broccoli alla Romana; à la the best broccoli is in the markets in crème, à la polonaise; al burro e salt and freshly ground black pepper formaggio. 1 Heat a large, non-stick frying pan or wok. Add the sesame seeds and toast them, shaking the pan constantly, for 1–2 minutes, or until the seeds turn golden. Transfer to a plate. 2 Add the oil, soy sauce, and dried chilli flakes to the pan and stir to combine. Add the broccoli florets and stalks and stir-fry for 2 minutes. 3 Pour in the stock and cover the pan. Cook for 1–2 minutes, or until the broccoli is tender but still crisp. Stir in the sesame seeds and season to taste with salt and pepper. Broccoli (calabrese) Remove flowerheads with some The most common variety of broccoli, stalk and leaves attached. Peel this is rich green with a meaty flavour the central stalk if it is fibrous and, if not overcooked, a crunchy and halve lengthways if thick. texture. It is packed with nutrients that are best retained by steaming. Purple cauliflower Purple varieties tend to be milder than the white. Cooked with care by light steaming, the curds will retain some of their attractive colour. Purple sprouting broccoli The elegant spears have a chewy texture and full-bodied flavour. In Italy sprouting broccoli is served in the same way as asparagus – with olive oil, melted butter, or hollandaise sauce.

1 9 0 | V E G E TA B L E S | B R A S S I CA S ASIAN LEAFY GREENS 2 STORE Wrap in moist kitchen Chinese spinach (Yin choi) paper, place in a plastic bag, and keep The leaves, which taste much like Hundreds of kinds of Asian leafy in the vegetable drawer of the fridge. European spinach varieties, are greens are grown in temperate and Because freshness is so essential to eaten raw in salads when tender tropical climates around the world Asian cooking, store for just 1–2 days. and young, or cooked briefly by – so many that even botanists have a 3 EAT Shred, cut, or use leaves steaming or stir-frying. hard time classifying them. However, whole. Fresh: Some varieties can be most are brassicas, that is members of eaten raw in salads. Cooked: Braise the cabbage and mustard family. Some them, stir-fry, use as wrappers for of them are open, leafy plants, while meaty fillings, steam, or sauté, either others are tight heads of wrapped by themselves or with other vegetables leaves, with colours from red and and meats. Preserved: Some Asian leafy purple through green to white. They greens – cabbages and mustards, for range in flavour from peppery-hot to example– can be pickled. Spicy Korean mildly sweet. Many have the Chinese kimchi, made with Chinese cabbage, word choy or choi, meaning vegetable, is probably the most popular pickle. in their names. All are highly nutritious. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Prawns, garlic, 1 BUY Where winters are fierce, these ginger, spring onions, mange tout, soy vegetables are best in the cool weather sauce, oyster sauce, toasted sesame oil, of spring and autumn; in milder climates, vinegar, mushrooms, five-spice powder, their season is winter. Light frosts star anise, coriander. sweeten them. When buying, check the CLASSIC RECIPES Kimchi; spring rolls. cut ends: they should look moist and freshly cut. The stalks should snap when bent and the leaves show a lively colour. Bok choy or pak choy Tender leaves are Also known as Chinese white traditionally stir-fried cabbage, the crunchy, mild- or steamed. flavoured stalks are almost The crunchy stems of sweet, while leaves taste baby bok choy (called slightly mustardy. mei qing choi) are Water spinach (Tong choi) often braised whole Hollow stalks and narrow pointed leaves combine crunch with soft in chicken broth. leafy texture. The flavour is similar to regular spinach.

ASIAN LEAFY GREENS | 191 Use the pretty leaves as edible plates to hold rice or grain-based salads. Japanese mustard spinach Chinese leaf or leaves (Komatsu-na) Also called Napa cabbage, Eaten raw as a salad green when celery cabbage, and Peking young, the flavour gets stronger cabbage, the large, mild and hotter in older leaves, which leaves are pulled away from can be cooked in stir-fries and soups, the stalk to use raw in salads or salt-pickled. or in soups and stews. Edible rape (Yu choi, green choi sum) Chinese broccoli (Gai lan) The tender, crunchy stalks and, when they Also called Chinese kale, this appear, the little flowers and buds all have sometimes has small white flowers. a mustard-like bite. The stalk, thick leaf, and buds can all be eaten, traditionally in stir-fries, or braised and served with oyster sauce. Chinese mustard greens or mustard cabbage (Gai choi) There are many types in various colours, textures, and sizes. A common reddish variety is peppery-hot.

1 9 2 | V E G E TA B L E S | B R A S S I CA S Chinese flat cabbage (Tatsoi) This grows in a ASIAN LEAFY GREENS (CONTINUED) flattened rosette shape. Young leaves are mildly pungent and Edible chrysanthemum add crisp, juicy crunch to (Shungiku, Tong ho) Leaves a salad. Mature leaves are have a slightly sour flavour chewier and best stir-fried. and chewy texture, best suited to meat-based stir-fries and soups. If lightly blanched, young leaves can be used in salads. MUSTARD GREENS steamed or stir-fried; when large and COLLARDS browning, yellowing, or excessive mature, mustard greens are best limpness. Check the stalk ends for Mustard greens or leaf mustard are stewed or braised until very tender. Collards or collard greens look much fresh-cut moisture. catch-all names for a number of FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Seafood, butter, like the wild, primitive form of 2 STORE They will keep in an open different brassicas with a distinctive garlic, soy, vinegar. non-hearting cabbage from which plastic bag in the vegetable drawer of peppery taste. Popular in Asia, Italy, CLASSIC RECIPE Boiled greens modern cabbage plants derive, except the fridge for 4–5 days. Store them and the American South, they range with ham hocks. that their spatulate leaves are larger. away from apples, which give off from light green to dark burgundy Particularly popular in the southern ethylene gas, because this will turn in colour, from tender to chewy in states of the US, they range in colour the collards yellow. texture, and from mild to ferociously from flat green to a slightly hazy 3 EAT Boil or steam, braise, sauté, pungent in flavour. All types grow well bluish-green, and have an intense or stir-fry; use in soups and stews. in cool weather in temperate zones. cabbagey flavour. British spring greens They need lengthy cooking to make 1 BUY Mustard greens are found in are similar in appearance, although them soft. markets year-round, but they are at they are actually young cabbages and FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, ham, their best from late autumn to spring. have a milder flavour. lemon, onions, potatoes, salt pork. Look for spritely, freshly cut leaves, 1 BUY Collards can be found and avoid any that show yellowing year-round, but are at their best in the CLASSIC RECIPE or limpness. cold months. Choose compact, small, 2 STORE Store unwashed mustard very fresh leaves that show no Greasy greens. greens wrapped in damp kitchen paper in an open plastic bag in the fridge Leaves should vegetable drawer for 3–4 days. look fresh and have a 3 EAT Fresh: Add a few small, tender leaves to a salad to give a spicy bite. lively colour. Cooked: Young leaves can be Check the cut ends to be sure they are moist.

KALE 3 EAT Fresh: Tender leaves of baby KALE | HUAZONTLE | 193 kale will pep up winter salads. The juice Descended from the wild cabbages of makes a fine addition to raw carrot- Trim the stalk ends if they southern Europe, modern varieties of juice drinks. Cooked: Boil or steam, are fibrous, then slice leaves kale have a cold-hardy nature, and are braise, sauté, or stir-fry, or simmer in now grown around the world in cold soups and stews. across into broad ribbons. to warm temperate climates. The FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Sausage, bacon, curly-leaved Scottish variety is the most cheese, garlic, onions, potatoes, olive oil. familiar. Frosts sweeten up its leaves, CLASSIC RECIPES Caldo verde; clams which have a chewy texture and slightly in white wine with kale; zuppa toscana; bitter, cabbagey flavour. couve à mineira; ribollita. 1 BUY Autumn and winter are the peak seasons. Like any leafy green Cavalo nero vegetable, kale should be as freshly Also known as Tuscan black cabbage or picked as possible, with no brown Dinosaur kale, this member of the kale spots or yellowed leaves. family is widely used in Tuscan cooking. 2 STORE In a plastic bag, kale can The deeply puckered leaves are tender and be kept for a week in the vegetable mildly flavoured. Lightly steam, or sauté. drawer of the fridge. Don’t store kale with any fruits that give off ethylene gas, such as apples, or the leaves will quickly yellow. Strip leaves from tough stalks by folding in half so upper surfaces touch, then pull the stalk firmly towards the tip. Curly kale Red kale CLASSIC RECIPE Exceptionally nutritious, the leaves of curly kale have The red variety is softer-textured than curly kale and a rich, meaty flavour and robust texture. Boil or steam slightly sweeter with a satisfying buttery flavour. For CALDO VERDE until tender–crisp, then toss with butter or olive oil. a pleasing colour contrast, try cooking with the green. A traditional Portuguese soup, this is HUAZONTLE 2 STORE Use the flowering stalks the made from kale (in Portugal called same day they are purchased. galega cabbage) and potatoes. Huazontle is a native Mexican plant 3 EAT Cooked: boil or steam small related to quinoa, whose use as a leaves, but eat in small quantities. SERVES 4 vegetable is primarily confined to Steam flower clusters, or coat in batter Mexico and Central America. There and deep-fry. 4 medium potatoes (use a floury variety), are no cultivated varieties. It resembles FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Cheese, lemon, peeled and cut into chunks sorghum, with a dense flowering garlic, ginger, tomatoes. seedhead atop a stiff stalk. Flower salt and freshly ground black pepper clusters taste similar to spinach with CLASSIC RECIPE an earthy, acidic, somewhat bitter 500g (1lb 2oz) kale, leaves pulled from flavour, but have a texture similar to Tortas de huazontles. the core, washed, and very finely sliced sprouting broccoli. Seeds are mildly bitter in flavour. 2 tbsp olive oil 1 BUY The flower clusters on their stalks should be freshly cut. 1 Put the potatoes in a saucepan with 2.4 litres (4 pints) water and add a little salt.Bring to the boil and simmer gently for about 15 minutes, or until tender. Mash the potatoes lightly with a fork, leaving them in the water. 2 Cook the kale in a pan of boiling water for 3–4 minutes. Drain and stir into the potato broth with the olive oil. Simmer for 1–2 minutes. Season to taste and serve hot.

1 9 4 | V E G E TA B L E S | L E AV E S A N D L E A F Y G R E E N S CLASSIC RECIPE SPINACH Look for glossy leaves with freshly reduces dramatically after cooking. Boil, cut stalk ends. Avoid leaves that are steam, wilt in hot butter or dressing, SPANAKOPITA Spinach still grows wild in its native broken or slimy. sauté, stir-fry, or braise. Iran, but it has long since spread to 2 STORE Store spinach in the fridge FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, fish, A Greek dish of spinach and dill temperate zones world wide. The in an open plastic bag for 3–4 days. anchovy, egg, cheese, yogurt, cream, layered with filo pastry. Crumble Asian varieties of spinach, which are 3 EAT Fresh: Add small, tender leaves butter, olive oil, garlic, onions, avocado, some feta cheese over the spinach small-leaved, smooth, and tender, are to salads or scatter over a hot pizza. mushrooms, lemon, nutmeg, curry. filling, if liked. usually sold as “baby” or salad leaves to Cooked: The volume of fresh spinach CLASSIC RECIPES Spanakopita; eat raw, while the larger, more crinkly wilted spinach salad; épinards à la SERVES 6 leaves of Western types are better crème; saag paneer; a wide range 1.1kg (21⁄2 lb) spinach leaves, cooked. The flavour of spinach is sweet of dishes à la florentine; washed well to remove any dirt with an appealing hint of bitterness; erbazzone; fatayer. or grit, then chopped the deep green of the leaves can salt and freshly ground black pepper colour dishes and foods such as pasta bunch of spring onions, trimmed and beautifully. New Zealand spinach, an finely chopped unrelated plant, has a flavour similar 50g (scant 2oz) fresh dill, finely chopped to spinach and is used in the same way; pinch of freshly grated nutmeg unlike spinach it does not reduce much 1 egg, lightly beaten in bulk when cooked. 10 sheets fresh filo pastry 1 BUY Spinach is available year-round, 3–4 tbsp olive oil and best in late spring to autumn. melted butter to glaze 1 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/ Tear coarse midribs and Gas 5). First cook the spinach: put stalks from large spinach it into a large saucepan, sprinkle on leaves before cooking. a little water, and add a pinch of salt. Cook gently for a few minutes until Spinach the spinach starts to wilt. Drain, then Spinach has juicy, tender leaves with a distinctly earthy, squeeze as much water as possible acidic flavour. As they are composed mostly of water from the spinach. Put it in a bowl, they dramatically reduce in bulk once cooked. add the spring onions and dill, and stir to combine. Season with the nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix in the egg. 2 Keep the filo under cling film, to prevent it from drying out, removing the sheets one at a time. Oil a baking tin about 23cm (9in) square. Layer 5 filo sheets in the tin, brushing each one with oil before you lay it in the tin (fold in excess pastry to fit the tin). Spoon the spinach mixture on top and spread out to cover the pastry. Top with 5 more sheets, brushing each with oil as before. Finally, brush the top generously with melted butter. 3 With a sharp knife, mark the pie into 6 squares. Bake for 30–35 minutes, or until the pastry is golden. Allow to cool slightly before serving, or serve cold. Stalks and midribs are Baby spinach undeveloped in baby The mildy flavoured leaves are brittle but soft. They are good in spinach, so the leaves do a salad with bacon and avocado, not need trimming. or wilted in an omelette or frittata.

CHARD 3 EAT Fresh: If very young and CHARD | 195 tender, chard can be added to salads. While its cousin beetroot was bred Cooked: Young leaves can be cooked Colour-stemmed chard to yield large roots, chard (or Swiss whole; otherwise, take the leaves from These colourful varieties have a chard) was developed to produce large the stalks and cook them separately. typically earthy, acidic flavour. Use leaves and fleshy stalks – two different Steam, braise, sauté, or stir-fry stalks; raw in salads when very young; vegetables in one. Today chard is boil, steam, or pan-fry leaves, or use otherwise steam, boil, or sauté widely grown around the world in them as wrappers. like spinach. temperate climates. Its leaves are dark FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Ham, garlic, green and crinkly, with a texture onion, chillies, olive oil. CCLLAASSSSIICC RREECCIIPPEE between soft and chewy. Depending CLASSIC RECIPE Blitva and potatoes; BLITVA AND POTATOES on the variety, stalks and leaf veins adass bil hamud. may be white, bright scarlet, fuchsia, This rustic Croatian side dish of Swiss lavender, yellow, or orange. The flavour chard and potatoes cooked with garlic is pleasantly tangy and earthy, like is simple yet delicious. beetroot or strong spinach. A close relative is seakale beet, similar in SERVES 4 appearance and cooked in 675g (1½1b) Swiss chard, washed well the same way. 4 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 BUY Chard is at its 2cm (1in) cubes best in early summer salt and freshly ground black pepper and again in early 2–3 tbsp olive oil autumn. Look for 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped bunches with leaves 1 First, prepare the chard. Separate that are glossy and the stalks from the leaves. Trim any fresh-looking; the tough ends from the stalks, then cut central midribs should into 2.5cm (1in) pieces. Roughly be crisp, not pliable. chop the leaves. Set aside. Stalks should be firm with 2 Drop the potatoes into a pan of no brown marks. boiling salted water and cook for 2 STORE Wrap the bunch 10 minutes. Add the chard stalks and in moist kitchen paper and cook for a further 5 minutes, or until keep in a plastic bag in the the potatoes are just beginning to vegetable drawer of the fridge soften. Drain well. for 3–5 days. 3 Heat a little of the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat.Add The stalks are slimmer the potato and chard mixture and the than those of Swiss garlic. Cook for a couple of minutes, chard. Cook lightly to stirring, then add the chard leaves. preserve their colour. Cook for a further 10 minutes, or until the leaves are wilted and Wash the leaves in everything is tender, adding more several changes of water olive oil as needed. Season to taste with salt and pepper before serving. to remove grit trapped in the crevices. Swiss chard Notable for its fleshy, edible stalks, Swiss chard has huge, deeply crinkled leaves with a complex earthy flavour and slightly chewy texture. Stalks need longer cooking than leaves, so are usually separated, sliced, and added to the pot first.

1 9 6 | V E G E TA B L E S | L E AV E S A N D L E A F Y G R E E N S CHICORY AND ENDIVE 1 BUY The best season for chicories and endives is winter. Look for fresh Native to the Mediterranean, chicories leaves with no browned edges and no and endives grow in temperate browning at the cut end. The leaves of climates around the world. These witloof chicory heads, or “chicons”, two very closely related plants are should be tightly wrapped around; the commonly and confusingly mixed. cut end should be fresh and moist. Chicories include the blanched witloof 2 STORE Try to use as quickly as type (what the British call chicory and possible, because they lose freshness the Americans Belgian endive) and the fast. Store in moist kitchen paper in red-leaved type (radicchio). Endives plastic bags in the fridge for a day or include curly endive, sometimes known two at most. as frisée, and batavian endive, also 3 EAT Fresh: Add to salads, or use called batavia or escarole. While whole witloof chicory leaves as chicories and endives vary in crudités. Cooked: Sauté, stir-fry, grill, appearance, all are crisp in texture and braise, or bake in a gratin. have an icy-sweet, slightly bitter edge. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, ham, Escarole has a stronger bite than the blue cheese, nuts, garlic, watercress, other types. olive oil. CLASSIC RECIPES Chicorée mornay; Curly endive or frisée gestoofde andijvie; endives au jambon; The frizzy leaves have a crisp texture; insalata di puntarelle con alici; radicchio in flavour they are pleasantly sweet di Treviso al forno. with a distinct, though mild, bitterness. They are best mixed with other leaves, or used as a garnish. The slightly coarse Break the leaves from the leaves are best torn into head and use whole for bite-sized pieces. scooping up dips. The darker outer leaves Witloof chicory have a stronger flavour than Also known as Belgian endive, this has those in the paler heart. crisp, tightly furled, spear-shaped leaves that may be tipped with Batavian endive yellow-green or red. Both types are or escarole sweet and nutty, with a slightly bitter Less bitter than curly bite. They add welcome crunch to endive, batavian endive green leafy salads. has a well-rounded flavour and softer, Red chicory is delicious pleasantly chewy leaves. grilled: halve whole heads lengthways, brush with olive Loose-headed chicory oil, and cook cut-side up. One of the least bitter chicories, Variegata di Castelfranco has slightly This variety is recognizable chewy, red-flecked leaves with a by the pale yellowy-green well-rounded flavour. An attractive background to the red addition to winter salads. flecks; more bitter varieties are deeper green.

CHICORY AND ENDIVE | ROCKET | DANDELION | 197 Long-headed chicory Radicchio Rossa Trevigiana Tardiva is a sought-after, late-harvested variety. The handsome, spear-shaped leaves are pleasingly bitter, delicious dressed in olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic. Round-headed chicory The thick, elongated, Radicchio Palla Rossa is a common variety of white root can be hearting chicory, with snugly folded leaves and thinly sliced and a bittersweet flavour. The leaves have a chewy added to salads along texture and are best sliced for salads. with the leaves. ROCKET Check the cut ends for freshness. Avoid Though tender, the leaves of leaves that are limp or beginning to curl. true salad rocket can become Native to Asia and southern Europe, 2 STORE Wrap leaves in moist kitchen rocket grows well in all temperate paper in a plastic bag or closed container intensely pungent in late zones around the world, where it is and keep in the fridge for up to 3 days. summer. Combine with variously known as arugula, rucola, 3 EAT Fresh: Young spring leaves, milder-tasting leaves to and roquette. Other similar plants are with an attractive peppery quality counteract the heat. also sold as rocket: Diplotaxis erucoides and a bit of bitterness, make a good and D. muralis are called “wall rocket” complement to sweet lettuces in in the US and Europe, and Bunias a salad mix, and an excellent substitute orientalis is a pungent Turkish variety for lettuce in a sandwich. Purée known as rokka. True and wall rocket peppery summer leaves to make a are salad greens with an earthy, nutty dipping sauce or pesto to dress pasta, flavour that is only slightly bitter when or to stir into soups. Cooked: Use the leaves are tender and young; as hot Turkish rokka in a vegetable frittata weather arrives, it develops aggressive or other cooked dish. peppery heat. Rokka is sharper and more FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Blue cheese, coarse in texture, and is better cooked. Parmesan cheese, potatoes, tomatoes, 1 BUY Salad rocket is at its best when lemon, olive oil, garlic, pears, fresh young and grown in cool weather, so thyme, toasted nuts. late spring and autumn are its choice seasons. Look for small leaves no more than 7.5–12cm (3–5in) long, without blemishes and with a fresh green colour. If milky sap shows DANDELION 2 STORE Dandelion greens and when a stalk is nicked crowns can be kept for 2–3 days in with a thumbnail the The dandelion is native to the northern a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer temperate regions of Europe and Asia, of the fridge. Roots wrapped in moist leaves are not fresh. but over centuries has virtually kitchen paper in a plastic bag in the conquered the world’s lawns and fridge will store for 1 week. meadows. Luckily for us, this familiar 3 EAT Fresh: Use young leaves in plant is entirely edible – from the roots mixed green salads, or alone, wilted to the attractively serrated leaves and with a hot dressing. Roots can be sliced bright yellow flowers. Leaves and eaten raw. Cooked: Boil, steam, (dandelion greens) can be picked from braise, sauté, or stir-fry. Unopened the wild for the kitchen when they are flower buds that are still inside the young and tender; they have a pleasing crown can be added to pancakes, light bitterness. Cultivated varieties omelettes, fritters, and frittatas. Bake, offer larger leaves that may be strongly or roast roots. Preserved: Slice and bitter or mild, depending on variety. pickle roots. 1 BUY Spring is the season for tender, FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Bacon, cheese, young dandelion greens. Usually only garlic, onion, lemon, mustard, olive the young leaves are sold in markets, oil, vinegar. but whole crowns or clumps and roots CLASSIC RECIPE Salade de pissenlit can sometimes be found. Check to be aux lardons. sure the leaves are very fresh and that the cut leaf ends are still moist to indicate freshness.

1 9 8 | V E G E TA B L E S | L E AV E S A N D L E A F Y G R E E N S BORAGE 2 STORE Use the same day you buy, Borage flowers or store wrapped in damp kitchen The fragile, exceptionally Borage is a native European annual that paper in a plastic bag for 1 day in pretty flowers can be is grown around the world, mostly in the vegetable drawer of the fridge. added to salads and temperate climates. It is often found 3 EAT Fresh: Add finely shredded summer drinks. in potagers and herb gardens. Both young leaves to salads. Use borage the leaves and the flowers are edible, flowers as a pretty garnish for cold Remove the stamens and black and have a refreshing, mild cucumber drinks, salads, and other cold dishes. pistils from the centre of the flavour. Young, tender leaves can be Cooked: Boil or sauté leaves and eat as flower before eating. used in salads or as a vegetable; tough a vegetable like spinach. In Italy, borage older leaves acquire bristly hairs, so is added to stuffings for ravioli and are best cooked as a pot herb, which cannelloni; in Turkey it flavours a pea softens the bristles. soup. Germans make a green sauce of 1 BUY Fresh borage is found most borage leaves. Preserved: Crystallized often at farmers’ markets, and is at (candied) borage flowers are used to its best in spring and summer months. decorate cakes and pastries. The plants should be just picked, and FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Eel and other the pretty blue flowers should show oily fish, white cheeses, yogurt, potato pretty, bright blue or pink petals salad, chives, dill, mint. around a clutch of dark anthers. If using as a vegetable, choose stalks CLASSIC RECIPES with many young leaves. Pimm’s Cup; borraja a la navarra. Borage leaves Although thought of as a herb, borage is also used as a vegetable. The cucumber-flavoured leaves are tender when young, becoming chewier as they grow larger. The stalks take slightly longer to cook than the leaves, so separate and add them to the pot first. MIZUNA as Chinese red mustard. It is also good NETTLES They are at their best in mid-spring in sandwiches, as a bed for seafood or when just emerging from the ground. A member of the mustard family, meat dishes, and as a garnish. Nettles, or stinging nettles, are edible 2 STORE For best results, prepare mizuna originated in China but has Cooked: Steam or stir-fry briefly; use wild plants that grow along the edges and cook nettles as soon as you get been cultivated for centuries in Japan: in soups, and noodle or pasta dishes. of moist woods and shady spots in them home. today it is considered to be a Japanese FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Pork, fish, temperate climates. In many parts of 3 EAT Use only the tender tops of vegetable. It has also made its way into shellfish, ginger, lemon, sesame oil, the world they are gathered when the plants. Cook like spinach – boil, Western cuisines, primarily as a salad olive oil, tamari. young and tender, to be cooked as a steam, braise, or stir-fry; or use to herb. The finely cut, feathery leaves leafy green vegetable; cooking destroys make a soup. are slightly bittersweet when young, their “sting”. Nettles have a herbaceous, FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Eggs, cheese, developing a peppery quality when earthy flavour, rather like sorrel. cream, lemon. they are older. 1 BUY Nettles are rarely seen in CLASSIC RECIPE Nettle soup. 1 BUY The best season for markets. When gathering them from mizuna is spring. As with most the wild (and preparing them) it is a salad greens, look for snapping good idea to wear rubber gloves. fresh leaves with a healthy green colour, no limpness or yellowing, Remove thick stalks and cut ends that are still moist. before cooking, using 2 STORE Wrapped in damp kitchen paper in a plastic bag in the scissors to avoid vegetable drawer of the fridge, it will being stung. keep for up to 5 days. 3 EAT Fresh: Mizuna appears in salad mixes with other leaves such Baby mizuna leaves are far less pungent than larger ones.