Orzo D R I E D PA S TA | 4 9 9 Orzo is the Italian word for barley, although this is not made from barley flour but durum CLASSIC RECIPE wheat. Use it for soups, as a side dish, or in place of white rice. Flavoured varieties are MACARONI CHEESE also available. Greece has its own version of orzo called kritharaki, which is used in A creamy, comforting supper with baked dishes and soups. a mustard kick. Serve with a crisp salad or steamed vegetables. Pasta made from durum wheat is shaped to look SERVES 6–8 500g (1lb 2oz) dried macaroni like barley grains. 50g (13⁄4oz) butter, plus extra for greasing 50g (13⁄4oz) plain flour Macaroni 500ml (16fl oz) milk In southern Italy, macaroni is 1 tsp English mustard powder the word for pasta; however, freshly grated nutmeg, to taste elsewhere it is usually applied salt and freshly ground black pepper to smooth or ridged short pasta 175g (6oz) Cheddar cheese, finely grated tubes. Maccheroni leccesi means 100g (31⁄2oz) Gruyère cheese, finely grated pasta in the style of Lecce, in 50g (13⁄4oz) Parmesan cheese, finely grated Puglia. Use for macaroni cheese 100g (31⁄2oz) fresh white breadcrumbs and other baked dishes, such as timbales. 1 Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water for 7–8 minutes, Farfalle or 2 minutes less than specified on the Simple tomato sauce or cheese and ham packet. Drain, rinse under the cold are the classic matches for this northern tap and set aside to drain thoroughly. Italian shape that is likened to bow-ties or 2 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/ butterflies. However, farfalle also works well Gas 5) and lightly grease a 30 x 20cm in pasta salads and oven-baked dishes. The (12 x 8in) ovenproof dish. Melt the small version, farfalline, is used in soups. butter in a large pan then add the flour, stirring to make a paste. Cook Tagliatelle for 1–2 minutes then reduce the heat Often sold dried in and add the milk a little at a time, clusters or nests, stirring well after each addition to give tagliatelli is popular a smooth sauce. Stir in the mustard with cream sauces for and a little nutmeg, salt and black ham or salmon. pepper. Bring to the boil, stirring, and simmer for 5 minutes, until the sauce Dried lasagne thickens and becomes glossy. When buying, check the packet to see if the pasta needs boiling before 3 Add 150g (51⁄2oz) of the Cheddar baking or can be used without prior cooking. Some varieties have curly edges and all the Gruyère and stir until for a decorative finish and to help trap chunks of meat or vegetables. smooth. Gently mix in the pasta. Taste, season, and spoon into the baking dish. 4 In a small bowl, toss the remaining Cheddar with the Parmesan and breadcrumbs and sprinkle over the macaroni. Bake for 15–20 minutes, then transfer to a hot grill for 3–5 minutes until the top is golden- brown and crisp.
5 0 0 | G R A I N S | PA S TA FRESH PASTA DRIED PASTA (CONTINUED) Fresh egg pasta is unlike other pastas because it is made with softer tipo Penne rigate have Penne 00 flour rather than durum wheat ribbed sides and Pasta quills are versatile and easy to cook. Penne semolina. Sometimes oil is added for angle-cut ends. lisce has smooth sides while penne rigate is ribbed; easier handling. Italy’s Emilia-Romagna small and very large versions are also available. region is the centre of commercial Classically paired with tomato and chilli sauces, production, but good-quality, fresh egg penne is also good for salads and pasta bakes. pasta is made by specialists around the world, as well as in the home. More Large, chunky pasta unusual is fresh durum wheat pasta tubes with ridges on (pasta di semola fresca), which is the outside. usually hand-made and comes mostly from the south of Italy, especially Puglia Linguine Conchiglie Rigatoni and Sardinia. It takes several minutes A flattened, long, thin version Pasta shells are available in small, These large pasta tubes originated in Rome. longer to cook than fresh egg pasta. of spaghetti that works well as medium, and large sizes. The small are Satisfying to eat, they can hold very chunky sauces 1 BUY When choosing long shapes, a wholemeal pasta. Serve with seafood used for soups, the large for stuffing, of meat and vegetables, but are equally good with buy those sold in nests to protect (especially clams (vongole), or prawns), and the medium for serving with smooth cream or cheese sauces. The shape is also them during transport, often dusted chunky or thin sauces, or in salads ideal for pasta bakes. with semolina flour to prevent sticking. pesto, and green beans, creamy tomato or pasta bakes. 2 STORE Freshly made pasta keeps sauces, or simple combinations of for up to 3 days in the refrigerator and olive oil, lemon, and herbs. 3 months in the freezer. Bought fresh pasta will keep for a week or two – see the packet’s use-by date. 3 EAT Fresh egg pasta is malleable and can be produced in a wide range of shapes, whereas pasta di semola fresca tends to be made in short shapes such as fusilli and orecchiette. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Basil, beans, beef, cheese, garlic, olives, oregano, tomato, red wine, walnuts. CLASSIC RECIPES Pappardelle with hare sauce; trofie with Genovese pesto; lasagne al forno. Black ink pasta Known as nero di seppia or nero di calamaro, this pasta coloured with the ink sacs of squid or cuttlefish tends to have a fishy flavour, which means it is best matched with seafood or vegetable sauces. Usually sold in long, thin shapes such as spaghetti and linguine. Trofie A speciality of Liguria, these chewy hand-made spirals with tapered ends look a little like worms. They are traditionally served with pesto, which originates from the same region. They are correctly made from tipo 00 flour and water. Fettuccine Flavoured pasta Central Italy’s answer to tagliatelle, There are many novelty versions of these medium-width pasta ribbons flavoured pasta, including red wine are rolled slightly thicker than the and chocolate, but the most tagliatelle of the north but work enduring are green (made by adding with similar sauces. spinach purée to the dough) and red (adding tomato purée). Although the taste of these pastas is rarely strong, it is worth making sure the sauce contains complementary flavours.
F R E S H PA S TA | F I L L E D PA S TA | 5 0 1 Pappardelle These pasta ribbons are CLASSIC RECIPE These long, 2–3cm- (3⁄4–11⁄2in-) wide of medium width. pasta ribbons from the Veneto and Tuscany LASAGNE AL FORNO are usually served with chunky meat The perfect dish for family meals sauces. Dried pappardelle is also or for casual entertaining. available; both varieties have wavy or straight edges. SERVES 4 Lasagne sheets Tagliatelle 1 tbsp olive oil Fresh lasagne sheets are made with eggs, whereas Originally from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, dried lasagne tends to be eggless. Lasagne verdi these pasta ribbons work with heavy and creamy 1 large onion, chopped is green and coloured with spinach. These fresh sauces, although Bologonese sauce is the classic partner. sheets can be casually piled on plates with other Tagliatelle is often sold in nests. 2 celery sticks, chopped ingredients and served as “open lasagne”. 2 small carrots, chopped FILLED PASTA Cappelletti Lunette This pasta is a favourite for the This semi-circular shape is said to 50g (1¾oz) pancetta, diced Good-quality filled pasta seems Christmas dinner table in central Italy. resemble “little moons”. Cheese luxurious but in fact the recipes are The shape is modelled on hats worn stuffings are the traditional 500g (1lb 2oz) minced beef frugal: Piedmont’s agnolotti, for in the Middle Ages. Traditional favourite, but you may also find example, derives from leftover meat stuffings are mixed meats or cheese. them flavoured with truffles, or 400g can chopped tomatoes and available local greens. Names, with mixtures such as broccoli shapes, and fillings vary throughout Ravioli and almond. 1 tsp dried oregano Italy, so classification can be confusing. Pasta parcels with serrated edges; usually 1 BUY Choose plump, well-sealed square but may be round. Raviolini are tiny 50g (1¾oz) butter pasta parcels – tears and gaps cause parcels used for soups; ravioloni are giant leakages during cooking. versions. Serve with sauces or simply with 50g (1¾oz) plain flour 2 STORE Fresh pasta should be olive oil or butter. cooked on the day of purchase but 600ml (1 pint) milk may keep for a day or two if kept dry in the refrigerator. When buying 150g (5½oz) ricotta cheese vacuum-packed pasta, check the use-by date. 12 precooked lasagne sheets 3 EAT Good stuffed pasta needs no more than a little melted butter, or 50g (1¾oz) Parmesan cheese, grated some herbs and cheese. FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Artichoke, 1 To make the ragù, heat the oil asparagus, beef, gorgonzola, in a saucepan and sauté the onion, mushrooms, Parmesan, pumpkin, celery, carrots, and pancetta for ricotta, spinach, veal, walnuts. 5 minutes, or until beginning to CLASSIC RECIPES Ravioli with sage brown. Add the beef and cook until butter; tortellini in broth (in brodo); browned, breaking it up with the side tortellini with ham and peas; pansôti of a spoon. Add the tomatoes, with walnut sauce. oregano, and 150ml (5fl oz) water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat Girasole and simmer for 40 minutes. Large, round parcels with scalloped edges that mimic sunflowers (“girasole” 2 Meanwhile, to make the béchamel is Italian for sunflower). Their size works sauce, melt the butter in a small well with chunky, braised meat fillings. saucepan and stir in the flour. Cook over a low heat, stirring, for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually beat in the milk. Return to the heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, then stir in the ricotta. 3 Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/ Gas 5). Spread a little béchamel sauce over the base of a 20 x 30cm (8 x 12in) ovenproof dish. Arrange a layer of lasagne sheets on top, then add a third of the ragù sauce in an even layer. Drizzle 1–2 spoonfuls of the béchamel over the meat sauce and top with another layer of lasagne. 4 Repeat until all the lasagne and ragù have been used, finishing with a thick layer of béchamel sauce. Sprinkle the Parmesan on top and bake for 45 minutes, or until piping hot and the sauce bubbles around the edges. Tortellini This shape is based on Venus’s navel and should be delicate. Cheese, meat, or vegetables are classic fillings, and the pasta is served in broth, or with cream sauce or ragù. The larger tortelloni have stuffings based on vegetables or ricotta.
Dried pasta comes in different shapes that suit different dishes. Conchiglie shells, for example, are great for capturing sauces.
504 | GRAINS | COUSCOUS CLASSIC RECIPE COUSCOUS rancid slightly quicker because they FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Almonds, contain the germ of the grain – your aubergine, coriander, cumin, lamb, COUSCOUS WITH PINE Couscous is often mistakenly called a nose will tell you when they are past lemon, olives, poultry, raisins, NUTS AND ALMONDS grain because of its granular shape but their best. sesame, squash. in fact it is a processed pasta-like 3 EAT Couscous’s sandy texture is CLASSIC RECIPES Couscous cake; A tasty alternative to rice; serve product. As with pasta, it is most something people tend to love or couscous royale; couscous alla hot as a side dish or cold as a salad. commonly manufactured from durum loathe so you might want to gauge trapanese; fregola with clams; Good with grilled meats, chicken, wheat semolina; however, it can be interest before serving it to guests. jewelled couscous. or fish. made from a variety of grains, and still The larger grains of Israeli couscous is in rural North Africa, from where and fregola have a more substantial Barley couscous SERVES 4 it originates. mouthfeel, and a pleasant toasted Most common in Tunisia, but also 175g (6oz) couscous 2 STORE In dark, dry conditions, flavour. North African couscous is traditional in some parts of Morocco, boiling water, to cover preferably an airtight box, couscous prepared by rehydrating or steaming; this couscous has a richer, more 1 red pepper, deseeded and chopped will keep for at least 12 months (often however, Israeli couscous and honeyed flavour than couscous made 100g (31⁄2oz) raisins Berber people will make enough to fregola need to be boiled for from wheat, but it is prepared and 100g (31⁄2oz) dried apricots, chopped last an entire year) but you should about 6–8 minutes. cooked in the same way. 1⁄2 cucumber, deseeded and diced also refer to the use-by date on the 12 black olives, pitted packet. Wholemeal varieties will turn 60g (2oz) blanched almonds, lightly toasted Wheat couscous 60g (2oz) pine nuts, lightly toasted Outside North Africa, wholemeal and fine couscous 4 tbsp light olive oil are the most widely available varieties. Both are juice of 1⁄2 lemon made from semolina – the hard, central part of the 1 tbsp chopped mint durum wheat grain and a by-product of grinding it salt and freshly ground black pepper into flour. Fine couscous is lighter in texture but slightly blander than wholemeal couscous. 1 Put the couscous in a bowl and pour over enough boiling water to cover it by about 2.5cm (1in). Set aside for 15 minutes, or until the couscous has absorbed all the water, then fluff the grains up with a fork. 2 Stir the pepper, raisins, apricots, cucumber, olives, almonds, and pine nuts into the coucous. 3 Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, and mint. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and stir into the couscous. Serve at once while warm, or leave to cool. Fregola Israeli couscous A large, Sardinian version of couscous, traditional Sometimes called giant couscous, these pearl-like balls to homes on the south side of the island and of pasta are made from durum wheat and roasted typically served with shellfish. It is made from during manufacture so that they are not as sticky as semolina and water and, like Israeli couscous, North African couscous and have a chewier texture. roasted during manufacture although fregola White and wholemeal versions are available. arguably has the better flavour.
RICE NOODLES FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, chilli, RICE NOODLES | 505 coconut, eggs, garlic, ginger, lamb, These opaque noodles made from oyster sauce, peanuts, poultry, Rice sticks rice flour and water have a more sesame, shellfish, soy sauce, spices, These dried, flat noodles vary in width from a delicate taste and texture than their spring onion. couple of millimetres to about half an inch. They wheat-based cousins, resulting in a CLASSIC RECIPES Shanghai pork are best known for their use in pad Thai and their lighter eating experience. They can be noodles; Vietnamese beef noodles robust texture makes them ideal for stir-fries. chewy or very soft, but that is down soup (pho); pad Thai, spring rolls. to the accuracy of the cook. 1 BUY Fresh rice noodles are superior to dried only if they are purchased from a reputable store with a high turnover and eaten on the day of purchase. 2 STORE Fresh rice noodles should be kept well wrapped in plastic in the refrigerator where they will last for a week though their texture deteriorates quickly. Dried rice noodles can be kept in a dry cupboard for several years without compromise. 3 EAT Fresh rice noodles are already cooked and need only reheating to serve. Few rice noodle recipes demand boiling – instead the noodles are rehydrated by soaking in hot or cold water, depending on the variety, then drained and combined with other ingredients. Fine rice noodles Usually manufactured in Thailand or Vietnam, these thin, straight versions of flat rice sticks are suitable for soups and stir-fries. Rice vermicelli Very thin and wriggly dried noodles sold in brittle skeins and used throughout the Far East and Southeast Asia. They are used to add bulk and texture to dishes, yet the effect is light, as when featured in spring rolls or salads. Rice vermicelli can also be deep-fried, which makes them puff up and turn crisp. Brown udon rice noodles The most common varieties of brown rice noodle are Thai brown rice vermicelli and Japanese brown rice udon. Check the ingredients list on the packet as the udon may be made with a proportion of wheat flour – adding the brown rice flour gives a noodle of darker colour, more distinctive flavour, and firmer texture than plain wheat or rice noodles.
506 | GRAINS | NOODLES WHEAT NOODLES 3 EAT Boil them and serve with Chinese egg noodles matching sauce or add to soups and Can be purchased dried or fresh, round or flat, in a Wheat is second to rice in Asia, but stir-fries. In Japan and Korea especially, variety of thicknesses. Colour ranges from tan to golden. in cold-climate areas such as northern certain noodles and recipes are Egg noodles are more sustaining and springy textured China it is the predominant grain and considered appropriate for summer than eggless or rice noodles, and are most famously used noodles made from it play a major role (rather than winter) dining and are in chicken chow mein; however, they appear in dishes in the local cuisine. From there, they even served cold. across China and countries such as the Philippines, have spread in popularity to other FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, cashew Thailand, Vietnam, and Malaysia. parts of Asia and the world: wheat nuts, chillies, green peppers, miso, noodles feature in many of the world’s onion, oyster sauce, pork, poultry, best-known noodle dishes, from spinach, star anise. chicken noodle soup to commercial CLASSIC RECIPES Chow mein; instant pot noodle products. eggflower noodle soup; spicy Sichuan 2 STORE Fresh noodles are best used noodles; curry udon; Indian on the day of making or purchase, but vermicelli pudding. will last in the refrigerator for a week. Dried noodles, kept well wrapped in a dry cupboard, will last several years, though ideally would be consumed within two. Indian vermicelli Also known as seviya, sev, and sevian, these fine wheat noodles are sold plain and pretoasted, as the first step of many recipes is to fry them until brown in ghee. They are used in savoury dishes in India, Pakistan, and Malaysia but are most commonly used for lightly spiced milk puddings. Udon Chinese wheat noodles These rugged, white wheat-flour noodles These eggless wheat noodles with an from southern Japan are pleasingly plump unobtrusive flavour are robust and with rounded or square-cut edges. They versatile. They hail from northern China can be purchased fresh or dried and are and are available fresh or dried. Choose popular served in warming broths and thick them for stir-fries and hearty soups. curry (katsu) sauces. Kishimen From Japan’s Nagoya region, these wide, flat noodles are like a slippery, chewy version of Italian fettuccine. They are served cold with dipping sauce, swimming in hot broth with fish cake and tofu, or with stir-fries.
NOODLES | 507 Somen Ramen These thin Japanese wheat noodles are Japan’s take on the Chinese particularly associated with summer time and usually wheat noodle is filling fast food and served cold with a dipping sauce, or sometimes iced. popular on street stalls, served in brothy Look out for flavoured varieties (citrus, green tea, dishes with greens, spring onions, and proteins plum) in speciality shops and restaurants. such as roast pork, egg, and fishcake. Instant ramen noodles are the basis of various convenience products. OTHER NOODLES on the packet. Fresh soba noodles CLASSIC RECIPES Spring rolls; should be consumed within a few Korean beef; noodle and vegetable Staple foods such as noodles have days of making. stir-fry (chap chae); Thai seafood traditionally been made from 3 EAT Aside from the nutritional and glass noodle salad; soba with the inexpensive starches available in each benefits of eating a wide range of dipping sauce; bird’s nest noodles. region. In areas not conducive to the foods high in complex carbohydrates, production of wheat or rice, other these noodles offer an enticing variety Soba ingredients such as tubers and legumes of textures and flavours, from Japanese noodles made exclusively from have provided a satisfying solution. elegantly crisp to rustically rubbery. earthy-tasting buckwheat, or a mixture 1 BUY Some packs are confusingly FLAVOUR PAIRINGS Beef, broccoli, of buckwheat and wheat flours. Dried labelled – look to the ingredients list crab, cucumber, green beans, versions are most common but some to clarify which noodles you are buying. mushrooms, prawns, seaweed, specialist stores sell fresh soba. 2 STORE Dried noodles will last sesame, soy sauce, spring onions. in a dry, dark cupboard, ideally well wrapped in plastic or stored in an airtight container, for years, though do refer to the use-by date Bean thread noodles Naengmyun Light vermicelli-style noodles also Made from a mix of buckwheat and sweet potato known as cellophane, glass, and jelly noodles thanks flours, these very thin Korean noodles are delightfully to the transparent appearance and gelatinous texture they elastic and can be eaten hot or cold. They are acquire once rehydrated. They are made from mung bean and tapioca traditionally cut into shorter lengths with a pair starches and are especially good for salads. of scissors at the table. Green tea noodles An appealing green variety of soba, coloured and flavoured with green tea powder, giving a slightly vegetal taste. Usually enjoyed cold in salads or with a simple dipping sauce.
OILS, VINEGARS & FLAVOURINGS OLIVE OILS | NUT OILS WINE VINEGARS SUGAR | SYRUP HONEY | SOY SAUCE MISO | PASTES | SALT
510 | OILS, VINEGARS, AND FLAVOURINGS | OILS OLIVE OILS DELICATE EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OILS Olive oil is unique among vegetable oils cultivating and processing the fruit, and Manzanillo varietal oil Taggiasca varietal oil in that it is simply the fresh juice of the so the results vary. Delicate olive oils are Originally from Jaen in Andalucia, this variety This oil is imbued with the flavour of light apples olive with the water removed. The fruity with low levels of bitterness and produces a delicate oil with notes of tomato, grass, and nuts and has a gentle bitterness and pepper fruits are crushed and mixed, then the pepper; medium have a well-balanced and herbs. Use in most culinary applications, tones. Use this Italian oil from Liguria with fish, oil is separated out centrifugally into flavour, while strong oils are robust and except the most delicate, such as salads. cooked vegetables, and salads. solid vegetal particles and water. The intense with bitter, peppery elements. traditional method of making olive oil, The oil can be either a varietal oil Lake Garda varietal blend Arbequina varietal oil using grindstones and a hydraulic press, made from a single olive variety, or The typical regional blend uses Casaliva olives with Delicate herbaceous tones with a definite nutty is still in use in a few places today. Oil a varietal blend made from a blend Leccino. Most are nutty with meadow-sweet herby element and light pepper. Originally from Catalonia meeting the complex legal requirements of more than one variety of olive. tones and light bitterness and pepper. Use with in northern Spain but now found around the world, for virgin and extra virgin status is Some oils are filtered, others are oily fish, chicken dishes, and salads. this is a good all-round oil for cooking and baking. bottled. This is the best olive oil; it has allowed to settle naturally. The texture an excellent flavour and good nutritional of unfiltered oil is thicker, but there is value. Olive oil is produced in all no detectable difference in flavour. countries around the Mediterranean Filtered oil lasts a little longer than basin and those in the northern and unfiltered but has less nutritional value. southern hemisphere that have a 1 BUY The best oils are processed similar climate of hot summers and at temperatures below 27°C (81°F). Labels stating the oil is “cold-pressed” mild winters. These mean it has been processed below this include California, China, temperature by a traditional extraction Argentina, Chile, system using a hydraulic press. “Cold Australia, New Zealand, extraction” signifies it has been and South Africa. The produced by continuous centrifugation. largest producer is Some oils are labelled “first-pressed”, Spain, which accounts which is meaningless as almost all olive for more than half the oils come from a single pressing. world’s olive-oil Both heat and light are detrimental production. Italy and to olive oil, so choose oils packaged Greece are ranked in in dark glass or tins and avoid those second and third place. that have been displayed in a window Olive oil is available in or under strong lights. a wide range of flavours; 2 STORE Store in a cool, dark place each producing region for 12–18 months and use within has its own olive 3 months of opening. It is best not to store oil in the fridge as it will solidify. varieties, micro-climates This will not harm it, however; and methods for it soon liquifies when returned to room temperature. 3 EAT Olive oil can be used in all culinary applications from grilling and frying to roasting and baking. Extra virgin olive oil is also a flavouring ingredient, which can be served as a condiment or a dip. Use in soups, sauces, and stews and to finish grilled meats and vegetables. It is a good base for bastes and marinades, and can be used in sweet dishes, bread, and cakes. La Tanche varietal oil Olivastra varietal oil Flavours of apples and pears predominate in this With complex tones of apples, herbs, and nuts sweet oil from northern Provence, in the south of with light bitterness and pepper, this oil is more France. There is little bitterness or pepper tones. delicate than other oils from Tuscany in Italy. It is Ideal for use in sauces and in baking. suitable for use in most culinary applications. Middle Eastern varietal blend Hojiblanca varietal blend Cailletier varietal oil Oils from the eastern Mediterranean tend Definite flavour of flowers and tropical fruits in this A sweet oil from the Nice area of Provence, to be delicate in character with light herby flavours Spanish oil from Andalucia. Use to finish traditional France. It has little bitterness or pepper tones. The and apples and nuts. Use for general cooking, where cold soups such as gazpacho, to dress light salads, apple, nut, and cut-salad tones go well with pasta a strong flavour is not required, and in baking. and in desserts with oranges and other fruits. and steamed vegetables, or use for mayonnaise.
OLIVE OILS | 511 MEDIUM-DELICATE EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OILS Tonda Iblea oil Andalucian varietal blend Portuguese varietal blend Koroneiki varietal blend This Sicilian oil tastes of vine tomatoes, with Blended Picudo, Hojiblanca, and Picual olives give The best Portuguese oils have complex fruity This widespread Greek variety is a very herbaceous herbaceous tones and medium bitterness and a fruity oil with lemon, tropical fruit, and almond flavours with well-balanced bitterness and pepper; oil with a fruity taste and a well-balanced pepper. Use as a dip or with salads, chicken, lamb, flavours, a little bitterness and medium pepper. others are more rustic with a flavour reminiscent bitterness and pepper. Serve as a dip or use in or vegetable dishes, such as the local caponata. Use in local Spanish dishes, salads, and desserts. of table olives. Use in most culinary applications. salads, grilled meat dishes, and with vegetables. CLASSIC RECIPE VINAIGRETTE Known widely as French dressing, because of its original homeland, the recipe now sometimes includes a teaspoon or so of Dijon mustard, or a little chopped shallot, garlic, or fresh herbs. Sicilian varietal blend Vallée des Baux varietal blend Leccino varietal oil A blend of Cerasuolo, Biancolilla, and Nocellara del Five or six local French varieties produce an oil with Originally from central Italy, this olive is now grown Belice olives gives a fruity oil with tomato flavours, often flavours of apples, pears, and oranges, a touch of in other regions and the southern hemisphere. The with herbs and citrus. The bitterness and pepper varies. herbs and nuts, and a well-balanced bitterness and oils have milky almond tones, light bitterness, and Use as a dip and with pasta. pepper. Use as a dip and an all-round cooking oil. strong pepper. Use in most culinary applications. STRONG EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OILS Picual varietal oil Coratina varietal oil Frantoio varietal oil MAKES 150ML (5FL OZ) Originally from Jaen, Andalucia, this olive can be Coratina olives are often blended with the milder This variety, grown worldwide, gives backbone to found across the southern hemisphere. Strong Ogliarola olive. The result is nutty with a strong Tuscan oils. The oils have strong woody flavours, 5 tbsp red wine vinegar with bitter pepper tones and often tomato, grass, peppery punch. Use in salads and serve with the with rocket, watercress, and raw artichoke. Bitter and herb flavours. Good for dipping and salads. robust vegetable-based cuisine of southern Italy. and peppery, they are good as dipping oils. salt and black pepper 150ml (5fl oz) olive oil 1 Combine the vinegar and the seasonings in a bowl. 2 Gradually add the oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly. 3 Check the seasoning before serving, adding more salt and black pepper, if required. Store freshly made vinaigrette in a sealed container and keep refrigerated. Puglian varietal blend Tuscan varietal blend South African blend This southern Italian variety from Puglia produces Typically, Tuscan oils use blends of Frantoio, European olives grow side by side in South Africa a very aggressive oil with a flavour of bitter Moraiolo, and Leccino olives to produce strongly and other southern-hemisphere growing regions. herbs and almonds and some strong pepper. fruity oils with plenty of bitterness and pepper. These blended olives produce strong oils with Use with robust salads and barbecued meats. Use with pasta and in traditional regional dishes. grassy apple tones with bitter almonds and pepper.
512 | OILS, VINEGARS, AND FLAVOURINGS | OILS NUT OILS production of nut oil is France. Elsewhere, nut oils are produced by The best nut oil is extracted refining with solvents, but these have mechanically after the nuts have been a lesser flavour. crushed and the pulp has been gently 1 BUY Check the sell-by date on the roasted to bring out their flavour. bottle, as nut oil has a short shelf life. Uncooked nut oil is virtually tasteless, 2 STORE Keep bottles well sealed in so it is most often used in cosmetics a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. and wood preserving. Nut oils retain 3 EAT Use in salad dressings and the flavour of the nuts from which mayonnaise, to flavour grilled or they are pressed, and so the better roasted meats, fish, and cooked the quality of the nuts used, the vegetables, and in baking bread and better the quality of the resultant oil. cakes. Nut oils are generally not The main country for mechanical suitable for use in cooking at high temperatures, with a few exceptions, such as peanut oil. Almond oil Pistachio oil This oil has a delicate flavour of sweet almonds. A strong-flavoured oil that has the distinctive Use to dress grilled fish, steamed green beans, aroma and taste of pistachio nuts. Often used and broccoli, or in confectionery and baking in in Greek and Middle Eastern pastries made particular in almond pastries and tarts. with filo pastry, and with steamed vegetables. Walnut oil Pine nut oil Hazelnut oil Rich, toasty aroma and taste, traditionally used Lightly nutty oil with a subtle, slightly sweet flavour. The strong aroma of hazelnuts and a subtle taste in French salad dressings. Drizzle over cooked It is best used uncooked, in salad dressings, make this oil a good choice for use in dressings and vegetables and use in stir-fry dishes. It is high in drizzled over cooked meat, and for finishing pasta desserts. Use in cold cookery only, as it can give a polyunsaturates, so refrigerate after opening. dishes. It is ideal in pesto instead of olive oil. bitter tone when heated. Macadamia oil RED PALM OIL Red palm oil Chefs like this oil for its stability – it can be used Strong and distinctive flavour. Traditionally used when cooking at high temperatures – and for its From the fruit of the tropical palm of in Caribbean and West African soups and stews. versatility. It has a delicate, milky, nutty flavour Asia and Africa, this unrefined oil gets It is also used to dress vegetables. and is good for use in baking. its colour from its high beta-carotene content. This is destroyed at high temperatures, leaving the oil white. Refined palm oil and coconut palm oil are virtually tasteless. 1 BUY The coloured oil has most flavour. African oils tend to be more viscous than South American ones. 2 STORE Unlike most seed oils it is also high in saturated fatty acids and so it does not keep well. 3 EAT Popular in Southeast Asian, Caribbean, and African cooking. ARGAN OIL Argan oil AVOCADO OIL Avocado oil Lightly toasty and nutty flavour reminiscent Thick, velvety texture plus a full and fruity This oil comes from the kernel of of hazelnuts, it is used in North African Avocado oil is produced from the pulp flavour with vegetal and herby tones. Use the fruit of the argan tree, which is tagines. Use in salad dressings and culinary of the avocado fruit without the use in salad dressings and sauces as well as indigenous to southwestern Morocco. applications where you might use nut oil. of chemical solvents. Water is added in marinades, grills, stews, and also as The kernels are extracted from the to the fruit, the mixture is crushed to a dipping oil. hard shells, roasted, then ground into a paste and the oil is then extracted a powder that is mixed with water. in a centrifuge. The main areas of The nutty-flavoured oil used to be production are California, Australia, extracted by hand, but now extraction New Zealand, and Chile. is by mechanical equipment similar 1 BUY The flavour varies widely, so to that used in making olive oil. taste before you buy. Choose strong 1 BUY Pure organic oil is the best herby tones for dressings and choice in the kitchen. marinades, lighter oils for cooking. 2 STORE Store in a cool, dark place 2 STORE Store in a cool, dark place for a year or more. Once opened, for a year or more. Once opened, use within 3 months. use within 3 months. 3 EAT Suitable for use as a cooking 3 EAT Suitable for use as a cooking medium at high temperatures and as medium at all temperatures and as a flavouring ingredient in its own right. a flavouring ingredient in its own right.
SEED OILS | 513 SEED OILS Corn oil Soy oil Rapeseed or canola oil With a very light, oily flavour, this oil is used in Extracted from soy beans, this oil has a very light, Available as refined and cold pressed, the latter Oil is obtained from the cells of plant most culinary applications and is particularly oily flavour. It is used in most culinary applications, has a definite but mild flavour of brassicas or seeds by a complicated chemical popular in the USA. It is a good frying oil and particularly in Asia and the USA, as well as in asparagus. Both are stable and can be used at process using solvents, and is then also a common ingredient in margarine. salads and for making margarine. high temperatures and in all culinary applications. refined to remove any unpleasant aromas and flavours. The resulting oil Sunflower oil Safflower oil Pumpkin seed oil has little or no taste but is stable at Available in refined and cold-pressed versions, the A member of the sunflower family, it is also very The refined oil has little aroma and a sweetish high temperatures. Seed oils were former has a light, oily taste, the latter a strong, light in flavour and can be used in just the same taste. Cold-pressed versions are not stable. developed in the second half of the earthy flavour. Use in most culinary applications, way as sunflower oil. It is an important ingredient Popularly used in Austria to finish dishes such twentieth century for their nutritional including cooking at high temperatures. in diet mayonnaise and salad dressings. as Styrian pumpkin soup, roast pork, and salads. value; most are rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, which are considered Sesame oil Mustard oil Groundnut oil beneficial against heart disease. The refined version has a lightly nutty and earthy Obtained from black and brown mustard seeds, The refined oil is almost tasteless and is used Sometimes seed oils are obtained solely flavour. However, if the seeds are roasted before this oil has a distinctive smell and a light flavour when no flavour is required. Cold-pressed versions by mechanical squeezing or pressing. processing the oil has a strong, toasty aroma and with a little heat. It can be used in Indian cooking are popular in India and China – also known as These oils have their own aromas and flavour. Both are widely used in Chinese cooking. in place of ghee, or in savoury biscuits or bread. peanut oil, they have a distinct peanut flavour. flavours. Cold-pressed oils, which are rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, are stable and can withstand high temperatures; however, oils with a high level of polyunsaturated fatty acids are not so stable. 1 BUY Choose cold-pressed seed oils for their flavour or nutritional value. Some cold-pressed seed oils are labelled “extra virgin”, but this has no legal meaning in relation to seed oils. 2 STORE Both refined and cold- pressed seed oils should be stored, firmly sealed, in a cool, dark place. Unopened like this, the oils will last a year or more. Once opened, refined oils should be used within 4–6 months. while cold-pressed oils must be stored in the fridge and used within 2–3 months. Seed oils high in polyunsaturated fatty acids should also be stored in the fridge and used within a few weeks. 3 EAT Use as a cooking medium at all temperatures, including deep-fat frying. All except cold-pressed seed oils with a high polyunsaturated fatty-acid content will not break down until they reach 225°C (437°F). Use as the base for dressings and sauces, such as mayonnaise. Grapeseed oil Rice bran oil Cold-pressed flax oil Available in both refined and cold-pressed versions, Extracted from the bran and germ of rice kernels, This is also known as linseed oil. It has a this oil has a delicate flavour and is widely used in this oil has a mild, nutty flavour and is highly distinctive woody flavour. Mainly used in uncooked French cooking and salad dressings. It is highly stable. Used in Asia for deep-fat frying and dishes for its nutritional value. It is not suitable for stable, so good for high-temperature cooking. high-temperature crispy cooking. cooking, being unstable at higher temperatures.
514 | OILS, VINEGARS, AND FLAVOURINGS | OILS FLAVOURED OILS Tarragon oil Orange oil White truffle oil This oil has a strong flavour of tarragon with The strong orange aroma and flavour adds a new Strong flavours of earthy, woody truffles. Made The best flavoured oils are made by a spicy ginger note. Use in vinaigrette mixed with dimension to marinades. Also use in dressings for with white truffles, which are the more pungent crushing the chosen fruit or herb with walnut oil, or serve drizzled over chicken dishes, green beans, seared scallops, and grilled pork varieties. Serve with simple pasta dishes and olives and processing in the usual steamed carrots, or artichokes. chops, or use to flavour biscuits and cakes. drizzle over grills, stews, and casseroles. manner. In southern Italy these oils are known as Agrumato oils. Other regions Basil oil Rosemary oil Black truffle oil producing good-quality flavoured olive The herby aroma is reminiscent of pesto sauce. Strong flavour of rosemary with spicy tones. A distinctive flavour of earthy, woody truffles, but oils are northern Spain and California. This oil is excellent drizzled over grilled chicken Particularly good with lamb and in potato dishes. black truffles are less pungent than white. In Italy Flavoured oils are also made by infusing breasts and cooked veal cutlets. Also use to dress Use to make savoury biscuits with oatmeal or chefs fry eggs in the oil over a low heat until just the chosen flavouring in ordinary olive simple tomato and potato salads. cheese and Italian focaccia bread. set, then serve on brioche with the cooking oil. oil or in a refined vegetable oil. This should be done commercially with Garlic oil Citrus fruit oil Chilli oil specially treated flavourings, because Earthy, garlic flavour. Use in all culinary Strong, zesty flavours of the specific citrus fruit. There are many different types of chilli oil, but if this is done at home there can be applications except when cooking at very hot Available using lemon, orange, and tangerine. they are all quite pungent with spicy tones. Serve problems with bacteria from the temperatures. Good for dressings, marinades, Use with pasta, in marinades, to dress vegetable with pizzas and pasta dishes, and add to soups flavouring multiplying in the oil and and in potato dishes such as dauphinois. dishes and salads, and in cakes and biscuits. and stews for a little extra piquancy. causing illness. Some flavoured oils are made with herb or fruit extracts or essences; however, the latter do not usually have such a good flavour. 1 BUY Check the label to see which kind of oil has been used as the base for the product, as this may affect the overall flavour. Take particular care when buying truffle oils and buy the best you can afford – smell the oil carefully on opening as the strong, truffle aroma can mask a rancid oil base. If in doubt, take it back to the shop. 2 STORE Store in a cool dark place for up to 6 months and use within 2–3 months of opening. There is no need to store in the fridge as the oil will start to solidify. 3 EAT Use in most culinary applications to add extra flavour to dishes, especially when the particular flavouring is not to hand. Keep a selection through the winter when fresh herbs are not always available. Do not use for cooking at very high temperatures. VERJUICE grapes thinned from the vines in the Verjuice early stages of development, Fruity with delicate sourness. Use to deglaze This is unfermented fruit juice, taken particularly from vineyards in South the pan when making sauces, add to stews and from unripe fruit such as grapes and Africa and Australia. The flavour and casseroles, or combine it with nut oils to give crab apples. The name comes from the degree of sourness of the verjuice an acidic tang to salad dressings. French vert jus or “green juice”. It was depends on the grape varieties used a popular condiment in medieval times and the maturity of the picked fruit. when it was used as lemon juice is 1 BUY Red verjuice has a stronger today – to add piquancy to a dish or flavour and piquancy than yellow. to prevent oxidation of fruits such as 2 STORE Keep in a cool, dark place apples and pears. With the arrival of and refrigerate after opening. lemons in Europe and elsewhere, the 3 EAT Use as a condiment to use of verjuice has almost completely dress fish and seafood dishes, and as died out. Though it is widely used in a flavouring in a wide variety of sweet Iran and Lebanon, where it is known as and savoury dishes. Unlike vinegar and abghooreh and hosrum respectively, and lemon juice, verjuice can be used used in certain condiments such as successfully in conjunction with wine. Dijon mustard. It is now making a comeback as a general flavouring, using
WINE VINEGARS | FLAVOURED WINE VINEGARS | 515 WINE VINEGARS Wine vinegar has a long history, though of pure vinegar-producing bacteria is 2 STORE Wine vinegar will last almost its origin is unknown. It is the result of a added to the wine, which is then left at indefinitely if well sealed. Naturally White wine vinegar naturally occurring double fermentation. ambient temperatures to turn into produced wine vinegar that has not Delicately sour with fruity undertones. Use in In the first fermentation, yeasts convert vinegar. Some vinegars are then matured been pasteurized or heavily filtered may dressings for delicate salads, to make mayonnaise the sugar in sweet liquids into alcohol. in wooden barrels to intensify their flavour grow a “vinegar mother” or cluster of and to deglaze the pan when making cream In the second fermentation, bacteria before being bottled and sealed. Wine vinegar-producing bacteria. Just remove sauces for steaks, pork fillets, and veal cutlets. sour the liquid by converting the alcohol vinegar is also made in an industrial them or use to make your own vinegar into acetic acid. In wine-producing process in an acetator. The wine is at home. Flavoured wine vinegar may countries, grapes and wine form the placed in huge vats with a starter not keep as long, but it can usually be base, but elsewhere apples, cider, or culture and warm air is filtered through stored for 2–3 years. other fruits and their wines, such as the liquid to raise the temperature to 3 EAT Use as a seasoning and as blackcurrant, elderberry, plum, and 30°C (86°F), which speeds up the a flavouring in salad dressings and apricot, are used. In the tropics, vinegar bacterial process. When the vinegar mayonnaise, in hot sauces, pot roasts, is made using dates or coconut toddy. has developed the required level of and stews and in chocolate dishes. The very best wine vinegar is produced acetic acid it is drawn off, filtered, Very often vinegar will serve more from good-quality wine under controlled pasteurized, and bottled. More wine is than one purpose in a dish: it acts as conditions in a long, slow, and natural added to the vat for the next batch. In a preservative in pickles and chutneys process. A specially bred starter culture the European Union wine vinegar must and as an effective tenderizer in have a minimum acidity of 6 per cent. marinades. Avoid aluminium pans if 1 BUY Each vinegar has its own cooking with vinegar and use vinegar- particular flavour and is rarely proof lids for pickle and chutney jars. interchangeable in recipes, so buy a selection to from which to choose. FLAVOURED WINE VINEGARS Red wine vinegar Mature red wine vinegar The best flavoured vinegar is made by 2 STORE Keep cool and away from Robust, fruity flavours with a good depth of acidity. Made using the classic red wines of Bordeaux, infusing the flavouring in white wine light. Any herbs, fruit, or spices in the Used in most culinary applications, including meat Rioja, and Barolo, it has harmonious, mellow vinegar. Others are made by adding bottle can fade. Store for up to a year stews and casseroles, it is also the French vinegar flavours that retain elements of the base wines. essences or extracts. If this is done if unopened and use within 3 months of choice when making vinaigrette. Show off in dressings and when finishing dishes. carefully it can make a pleasant vinegar, once opened. which is cheaper, though infusions 3 EAT These add an extra dimension generally taste better. to salads, marinades, and sauces, 1 BUY If “natural ingredients” appears particularly if the featured flavouring on the label it usually means that the is not available fresh. vinegar has been made by adding essences or extracts. Champagne vinegar Sherry vinegar Honey vinegar Fruit vinegar Made from the ice-plug of wine at the top of the This is matured for a number of years in a series Wine vinegar mixed with honey, but sometimes These taste strongly of the featured fruit, such as champagne bottle when the sediment is removed of wooden barrels. It is full of dried fruit flavours honey is diluted with water to produce a pure raspberries, blackberries, and cherries. Some are by freezing. A smooth, delicate taste with fruity and makes an aromatic dressing for robust salads. honey-based vinegar. Sweet with a sour aftertaste. made from fruit wine rather than by infusion. Serve tones. Use in a dressing for warm goose liver salad. Use to marinate pork loin for pot roasting. Use as a dip for fish goujons or to pickle cucumber. sliced avocado with raspberry vinegar and oil. Muscat vinegar Apple and cider vinegar Tarragon vinegar Pickling vinegar This vinegar has a strong aroma and flavour of These vinegars are made from apple juice Tarragon vinegar, like other herb vinegars, tastes Special blends of pickling spices are infused in the sweet muscat grapes with which it is made. fermented to make apple wine or cider. Both taste of the featured herb. Other flavourings used vinegar specifically for use in pickle making; they It has a light acidity. It is particularly good used strongly of apples. Use as wine vinegar. Cider include dill, oregano, thyme, mixed herbs, garlic, are usually malt based. Lager eddike is a special in seafood dressings, desserts, and fruit sauces. vinegar is said to be beneficial for arthritis sufferers. and shallots. Use in dressings and marinades. pickling vinegar used widely in Denmark.
516 | OILS, VINEGARS, AND FLAVOURINGS | VINEGARS BALSAMIC VINEGARS final vinegar. The first traditional balsamic Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena Balsamic Vinegar of Modena vinegar to be released from the system Thick, syrupy texture and a sweet taste with The best examples have a rich, fruity flavour that Balsamic vinegar is made from fruit must be at least 12 years old. More can complex molasses and dried-fruit flavours. Use to is good in dressings, savoury sauces, and desserts. juice that has been concentrated by be released at 20 years. Plain Balsamic add depth to savoury dishes, or drizzle over aged Decorate serving plates with drizzled, intensely cooking down; this is generally grape Vinegar of Modena is less costly. The Parmesan cheese, ice cream, and fruit desserts. flavoured vinegar; boil until thick, cool, then use. juice, but apple, elderberry, plum, and best are made from a mixture of quince are also sometimes used. The concentrated grape juice and aged wine Corinthian vinegar White balsamic vinegar flavours can be quite complex. vinegar, which is matured in a short Grapes grown in the Peloponnese on the Greek Very light flavour with just a touch of fruit, white However, some balsamic vinegars may series of barrels for anything up to mainland are dried on the vine before the juice is balsamic vinegar is usually the cheapest balsamic also have other ingredients in them. 8–10 years. used. Intense fruity flavour with a clean aftertaste. vinegar that does not contain caramel. Use to Others are made using a mix of 1 BUY With the exception of Serve as a dip, mixed with extra virgin olive oil. dress a cucumber salad or fish carpaccio. concentrated grape must and ordinary Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, wine vinegar, plus caramel and which is well labelled, the price and the preservatives. Some of these are hardly list of ingredients are the only aged at all and taste of little more than indications of which method has been burnt sugar. The most famous version used to make the vinegar. The best do is made in Modena, in Italy, where the not include caramel or preservatives. If best of all is the Traditional Balsamic both grape must and aged wine vinegar Vinegar of Modena. This is made from are used they should be in that order. the juice of local grapes, which is Be prepared to pay more for a good cooked over a fire until it is reduced by balsamic vinegar. a third. The very sweet liquid is then 2 STORE Store in a cool, dark decanted into small wooden casks and cupboard after opening, where it laced with a little old vinegar as a will keep for a very long time. starter. The vinegar is matured in a 3 EAT Use as a condiment and to series of barrels, rather like a solera give added depth and flavour to both system. Each barrel is made from sweet and savoury cooking. Traditional different wood; the type is not Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is specified in the regulations and expensive but only a few drops are producers can choose their own needed. The acetic-acid level is very combinations. The most popular low so balsamic vinegar cannot be woods used include chestnut, cherry, used as a preservative. oak, and mulberry. The different woods add their own dimensions to both the colour and flavour of the GRAIN VINEGARS Chinese white rice vinegar Chinese red rice vinegar Shanxi aged sorghum vinegar The higher acetic-acid content in this vinegar gives Widely used in Chinese cooking, the sweet–sour This speciality of northern China has a sweet–sour Grain vinegars are made from grains it a milder, less acidic flavour and a taste that’s flavour of this rice vinegar makes it ideal for mellow taste. It is used in much of the region’s that are cooked to release their starch; similar to white wine or malt vinegar. Use in dipping and also for use in soups, seafood, and cooking; in dishes such as sweet and sour this is then converted into sugar to sweet–sour dishes and as a condiment. noodle dishes. meatballs, and aubergines with chilli. make a sweet liquid, which is fermented to make a light alcohol. This Chinese black rice vinegar Japanese rice vinegar Malt vinegar is in turn converted into vinegar, either Made from glutinous rice and salt, this vinegar Similar to Chinese red rice vinegar but milder Strong, acetic, sour flavour with a hint of caramel. in barrels or in an acetator, as for wine has a mellow, slightly smoky flavour. Traditionally in flavour. Mix with salt and sugar to make Traditional Western accompaniment to fish and vinegar. In northern Europe used as a dipping sauce and in braised dishes, sushi vinegar, with lemon juice and soy sauce chips, tripe, beetroot, and other vegetables. Use fermented malt from barley is a or as balsamic vinegar. Chinkiang is considered to make ponszu sauce. Add to tempura batter for pickles, chutney, and in sauces and stews. common base for vinegar, which the best. for a crispy effect. produces a strong, sour vinegar with a malty taste. In China and Japan rice is the more usual base, though sorghum, wheat, barley, and rice bran may also be used. These vinegars are milder than European versions and many have their own distinctive, complex flavours. 1 BUY Avoid vinegar with added sugar. For preserving, choose one with a minimum acetic-acid level of 5 per cent. Avoid “non-brewed condiment”: it is not real vinegar but a cheap mix of water, acetic acid, and caramel. 2 STORE Grain vinegar will last almost indefinitely if well sealed. It does not need to be refrigerated. 3 EAT Widely used in general cooking, particularly in the East where it is added to savoury dishes, including marinades, dips, stir-fries, and stews. Each vinegar has its own particular flavour and is rarely interchangeable in recipes. Avoid using aluminium pans when cooking with it, and make sure lids are vinegar proof when bottling pickles and chutneys.
SUGARS | 517 SUGARS suitable for baking and for making Icing sugar Muscovado sugar sweet sauces. Darker sugars have Also known as confectioner’s or powdered sugar, this The dark and light versions of this unrefined, moist Sugar is sucrose; it is extracted from a stronger flavour and are good for fine, refined sugar often has a small amount of corn sugar have more or less intense caramel, spicy, and the crushed juice of sugar cane grown savoury dishes, pickles, and rich cakes. starch added to prevent caking. Use for icing cakes bitter flavours. Use dark in fruit cakes and savoury in the tropics, or from sugar beet Choose brown sugars that are moist, and in delicate sweets such as fondants. dishes; light in biscuits and crumbles. grown in more temperate climates. not hard. Moist brown sugars that are Sugar-cane juice can either be not coloured white sugars are usually Caster sugar Jaggery sugar processed in such a way as to retain its labelled “unrefined cane sugar”. This is a finer version of refined granulated sugar Blocks or cones of unrefined sugar evaporated natural colour and flavour, or it can be 2 STORE If protected from moisture and is the best choice when baking cakes, scones, from cane or palm juice. It has a rich, almost refined to remove them. Sugar-beet dry sugar will not deteriorate and can and light biscuits. If this is not to hand, grind mineral flavour. Widely used in Indian cooking juice is always refined as the taste of be stored for a year or more. If it does granulated sugar in a blender until fine. as a flavour enhancer in place of salt. unrefined sugar beet is not pleasant. absorb water it will form lumps and Another, rarer source of sugar is sweet harden, but this can be reversed by sorghum, and in Southeast Asia palm pulverizing. Moist sugar should be sugar is extracted from the sap of the protected from drying out as date palm tree. Dry white sugar is otherwise it will harden into a solid refined to be almost 100 per cent block. This can be reversed by placing sucrose. As well as removing the the sugar in a bowl with a damp towel impurities from the sugar, refining also over the top. removes any taste other than that of 3 EAT Use to sweeten everything sweetness. Most brown sugar is dry from drinks and desserts to jams and white sugar that has had some baked produce. It is also the base for molasses, sugar syrup, or caramel many sweets and confectionery. Sugar colour added to it. Light brown soft can be used as a seasoning in savoury sugar has less colour added to it than dishes such as stews and steamed dark brown soft sugar, and so it also vegetables. Moist, dark brown sugars has a lighter flavour. “Raw” sugars are add depth and flavour to rich dark extracted from unrefined sugar-cane cakes such as ginger and fruit as well as juice; they are moist in texture and to marinades, stews, and chutneys. have a distinctive taste that derives When dissolving sugar in water, start from the natural residues that remain over a low heat, stirring gently all the in the sugar. time, then turn up the heat once the 1 BUY Choose the right sugar for sugar has fully dispersed. the job: light-coloured sugars are more delicate in flavour and are the most CLASSIC RECIPE CARAMEL SAUCE Caramel has been used as a flavouring since sugar was first crystallized. This sauce appears in 19th-century European cook books in conjunction with puddings and ice-cream dishes. Sichuan rice bran vinegar MAKES 300ML (10FL OZ) Granulated sugar Demerara sugar The strong, acetic taste from this rice bran, wheat, A refined sugar that is used in general cooking and Originally from Guyana, this is a coarse crystal and rice-based vinegar matches the robust flavours 250g (9oz) caster sugar to sweeten hot drinks. It is the best choice when sugar traditionally used to sweeten coffee and for of Sichuan cuisine. It is particularly good in making sweets and confectionery. It is also baking rich fruit cakes. It is available in refined, sweet-and-sour dishes and also for dipping. 4 tbsp water available in a golden unrefined version. coloured, and unrefined versions. 60g (2oz) slightly salted butter 150ml (5fl oz) double cream 1 Mix together the sugar and water in a deep-sided, heavy-based pan. Warm over a low heat, stirring all the time, until the sugar has completely dissolved. Continue cooking for 4–5 minutes until the resulting caramel becomes a rich amber colour. 2 Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter and the cream. Place the pan back over a low heat and gently bring to the boil, stirring all the time, until the sauce is smooth. Allow to cool a little before serving. Japanese brown rice vinegar Barbados sugar Molasses sugar Made exclusively from wholegrain glutinous rice, An unrefined, slightly moist muscovado sugar that With around 2 per cent natural cane molasses, this with the bran and germ intact, this vinegar has is made from sugar cane grown specifically in raw sugar has a spicy, bitter–sweet character. Use a mellow taste. It is renowned for its medicinal Barbados. It is quite strong in flavour. Use in in dark chocolate and ginger cakes, and also in rich properties and is more often served as a tonic. rich fruit cakes, fruit puddings, and chutneys. Christmas cakes and Christmas puddings.
The darker the colour of honey, the richer and more robust the flavour. Comb honey is a delicacy that comes straight from the hive.
520 | OILS, VINEGARS, AND FLAVOURINGS | SYRUPS CLASSIC RECIPE SUGAR SYRUP Golden syrup Black treacle Has a light caramel taste and a runny consistency. This is quite thick, though still runny in texture and HONEYCOMB The most common sugar syrups are It is the main ingredient in classic treacle tart, with a strong flavour that is similar to but lighter those made from a by-product of the flapjacks, and steamed ginger pudding. than that of molasses. Use in rich sauces, to make Known as sponge candy, hokey sugar-refining process. This substance treacle toffee, and in baking ginger cakes. pokey, and cinder toffee, among is itself refined to give various strengths Blackstrap molasses other names, this recipe first of syrup. Sugar-syrup bases may be The unrefined syrup that remains after sugar-cane Corn syrup appeared in North America in derived from sugar cane, sugar beet, juice has been boiled three times to remove white Available in both light and dark varieties, corn the 19th century. or sorghum. (The latter is not sugar crystals. It is bittersweet with a distinctive syrups have a similar flavour to cane syrups and considered to be as good as the flavour. Use in rich fruit cakes and dark chutneys. can be used in just the same way. Use as golden 450g (1lb) caster sugar former two.) Some cane syrups are syrup to make cakes, desserts, and sweetmeats. made by simply boiling down sugar- Grape molasses 250ml (8fl oz) water cane juice so that it evaporates and Thick, honey-like consistency with a rich, dark Vincotto thickens. Corn syrup is a sugar syrup flavour of warm grapes. In Turkey it is known as This southern Italian syrup is made from grapes 4 tbsp golden syrup or light corn syrup that is produced by treating corn pekmez. Spread on bread or use it in sweet sauces dried on the vines, pressed, then boiled and aged starch with enzymes. to pour over puddings and ice cream. in oak barrels. It is runny with rich dried-fruit tones. 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 BUY The darker the colour of the Use to add sweet richness to savoury sauces. syrup, the stronger and more bitter 1 Combine the sugar, water, and the flavour is likely to be. syrup in a deep, heavy-based pan and 2 STORE Syrups may crystallize set it over a medium heat, stirring all during storage but the crystals will the time, until the sugar has dissolved. dissolve with gentle heating. Corn syrup should not be stored for more 2 Bring to the boil, cover with a lid, than 4–6 months as it is prone to and boil for about 3 minutes. Remove mould and fermentation. the lid and boil until the temperature 3 EAT Eat on bread or drizzle on to reaches 145°C (293°F) on a sugar porridge. Use as a flavouring as well as thermometer and the mixture turns a sweetener, to enhance the flavour a dark golden colour. of cakes and desserts, and to add a deeper richness to savoury dishes. 3 Remove from the heat and stir in It can be easier to mix a thick syrup the baking powder. The mixture will into a cake or biscuit mixture if it is bubble strongly. heated gently first. 4 Quickly pour the mixture into FRUIT SYRUP a baking tin lined with non-stick baking paper (you can grease it with These syrups are made by evaporating a little oil if you wish). Do not try to fruit juice or tree sap to produce spread out the mixture or the bubbles syrups which taste like their base fruits. will disappear. Some are used immediately, others are matured for a year or two in order to 5 Leave in a cool place for about concentrate the flavour. They are often 20 minutes until the honeycomb is known by different names, according to cold, completely set and easily breaks the region from which they originate. into pieces. Test a corner before 1 BUY Read the label carefully. breaking it all up. Good-quality fruit syrups and vincotto do not need any additives to preserve them. Check that maple syrup is not flavoured with corn or cane syrup. 2 STORE Store in a cool, dark place for up to a year and use fairly quickly after opening. 3 EAT Use as a flavouring and sweetener in both sweet and savoury dishes. Date syrup Pomegranate syrup Maple syrup This thick, viscous syrup tastes strongly of dates. Thick texture with a tangy sweet-sour flavour. This is a runny syrup from the sap of the maple It is sweet with light bitterness and a touch of Thicker versions are labelled pomegranate tree. It has a distinctive lightly woody and earthy acidity. Paired with tahini paste, it is used in the molasses. It is popular in Iraq and the eastern taste. The darker the syrup, the richer the taste. popular Middle Eastern dish dibis w’rashi. Mediterranean in sweet and savoury dishes. It is traditionally served on pancakes and waffles.
HONEY | 521 HONEY not been filtered or is starting to Comb honey Beech honeydew crystallize. Only honey labelled “pure” Honey-filled beeswax combs are taken directly Produced from aphid secretions on beech trees, Honey bees gather nectar from the is entirely honey, not honey blended from the hive and sold in their original state. this honey is thick in texture and does not flowers and plants in their vicinity and with other sweeteners. If you prefer Spread on bread and biscuits. Bits of wax remain crystallize easily. The flavour is strong and earthy. carry it back to the hive, where it is a mono-floral honey, look for the in the honey so it is unsuitable for cooking with. It is ideal for serving with bread or fruit. mixed with enzymes and stored. name of the flower on the label. Water evaporation and enzyme action 2 STORE Stored at room temperature Heather honey then turn the nectar into honey. It is unopened and out of direct sunlight, Found in the UK and Scandinavia, this is an produced everywhere from the tropics honey will last for many years. intensely flavoured honey with a light resin aroma. to the wilds of Siberia, although the 3 EAT Honey can be eaten spread The texture may be waxy, firm, or slightly crunchy. hotter the weather, the longer the bees on bread or drizzled on to porridge. Serve on porridge, or use to make shortbread. are able to gather nectar. The flavour It may also be used in cooking to of honey varies according to the type replace sugar, but it is sweeter, so less of plants the bees have visited. is needed. It will dissolve in hot or cold Mono-floral honeys are produced from liquids even if it is set. Honey attracts the nectar of only one flower species, water, so it is good for baking as it and these taste specifically of the plant keeps cakes moist for longer. Set honey from which the nectar has been taken. can be made runny again by standing Other honeys are made using blends of the jar in hot water for an hour or so. nectars, and “honeydew” is made from the secretions of insects feeding on the Lavender honey Rosemary honey sap of New Zealand black and red French, Spanish, and some English lavender honeys The flavour is reminiscent of the herby aromas of beech trees. Clear runny or liquid are produced from the nectar of the flower, but Provence. Found in Spain and France, rosemary honey is made by removing the wax others are infusions. Both have a lavender flavour. honey is used in both sweet and savoury dishes, cappings from the honeycomb and Use in cakes and biscuits, or to sweeten drinks. also in sauces and marinades for pork and lamb. extracting the honey. Most honeys will eventually naturally crystallize into a set honey. Honey is made up of a mixture of fructose and glucose sugar; the higher the glucose percentage, the faster the honey will crystallize. Whipped or creamed honey is produced through a commercial process and can be spread at room temperature. 1 BUY The darker the honey, the more robust the flavour is likely to be. Cloudy honey is not a sign of an old or inferior product, but that it has either Clover honey Wild thyme honey Lime blossom (aka Linden) honey Chestnut honey Sweet, flowery-flavoured honey with a touch of A distinctive honey with a flavour that has the Mild with typical fragrance of lime blossom, this This is a runny, intense honey that does not set. grassiness. It is found mainly in North America and aromas of the herb. It is renowned in New honey is found across Europe and in China. Used Originating in Italy and the south of France it has New Zealand. Useful in most culinary applications, Zealand and Greece, where it is served with thick to sweeten and add a minty flavour to drinks. a spicy, leathery flavour. Often served with Italian and good for sweetening biscuits and pastries. natural yogurt. It does not crystallize easily. The lime tree is also known as the linden tree. pecorino cheese, and excellent with fresh figs. Eucalyptus honey Leatherwood honey Manuka honey Orange blossom honey Distinctive medium-strength Australian honey. Said to taste of the rainforests, this unique, The nectar of the manuka plant or New Zealand Mild honey from Spain, Mexico, and Florida and Its colour varies depending on the variety of buttery-textured Tasmanian honey has a piquant tea tree yields a rich, dark honey with an aromatic California in the USA. It often has a light citrus eucalyptus visited by the bees. It is excellent aroma and complex flavour. Its buttery, spreadable flavour. It is widely used across New Zealand to taste but it is much sweeter than many other in barbecue sauces for veal and lamb. texture is perfect for use with bread. add flavour to cakes and desserts. honeys. Use in most culinary applications.
522 | OILS, VINEGARS, AND FLAVOURINGS | SAUCES SOY SAUCES Sweet soy sauce Tamari soy sauce CLASSIC RECIPE Known as kecap manis in Indonesia, sweet soy This Japanese soy sauce is thick, though still runny Soy sauce is an Asian speciality made sauce is sweetened with palm sugar and sometimes in texture, with a rich, savoury, and mildly salty BARBECUE SAUCE from soy beans usually mixed with flavoured with garlic and anise. The thick sauce is taste. Use as dipping sauce, and to season and roasted grains such as wheat, rice, good for dipping and for stir-fries, noodles, or rice. flavour all types of savoury Japanese food. The prevalence of outdoor or barley. This mixture is fermented cooking in North America led to for several months before being Chinese light soy sauce Chinese dark soy sauce the development of this sauce to strained and bottled. It comes in light This variety of soy sauce has a thin pouring A darker version, which is aged longer and has use with ingredients before and and dark versions, the darker version texture and a salty taste, with complex molasses added to produce a thick and syrupy after being barbecued. being aged for a longer period. Tamari tones of vanilla, citrus, and mature yeasts. Use texture with a rich, mellow flavour. Use in cooking is a Japanese soy sauce that is made as a condiment, a dipping sauce, and in stir-fries. and to flavour Chinese “red” stews. MAKES 750ML (1¼ PINTS) only from fermented soy beans; no 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped grains are in the mix. Japanese white 2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped soy sauce reverses the usual ratio of 1½ tbsp vegetable oil wheat and soy bean, using 80 per cent 60ml (2fl oz) vinegar or more wheat. They are all salty in 100ml (3½fl oz) tomato ketchup taste. Sweet soy sauce is a speciality 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce of Indonesia. 100g (3½oz) dark muscovado sugar 1 BUY Always check the label to 1½ tbsp chilli sauce ensure you are not buying synthetically juice and grated rind of 2 lemons manufactured soy sauce, which is 1 tbsp ready-made mustard produced in just a few days from a little freshly ground black pepper, to taste corn syrup, caramel colouring, salt and water. 1 Gently fry the onions and garlic in 2 STORE Store unopened at room the oil in a pan until lightly browned. temperature away from direct heat and light for up to 6 months. Once 2 Add all the remaining ingredients to opened, soy sauce keeps its flavour the pan and bring to the boil. Reduce better if it is stored in the fridge. the heat and simmer for 10–15 3 EAT A small amount of soy sauce minutes until the sauce thickens. Leave acts as a salt substitute and brings out to cool before using. the flavours of the other ingredients. Use as a marinade and as a flavouring; 1 BUY Check the labels and avoid light soy sauces in stir-frying and dark any sauces that contain MSG; it is not soy sauces in stews. It is also good as a necessary ingredient. Neither should a dipping sauce. they need to include corn-starch thickening or caramel. Thai fish (Nam pla) sauce FISH SAUCES 2 STORE Store in a dark place away Known as nam pla in Thailand, this sauce is clear from direct heat, as fish sauces may with no sediment and has an intensely fishy aroma Dried, salted, and fermented fish or start to ferment if the surrounding that is not too strong on the palate. Use in Thai fish extracts are used in a number temperature gets too high. Once opened, salad dressings, stews, and curries. of Asian sauces. Chinese oyster sauce keep in the fridge for 3–6 months. used to be made from salted oysters, 3 EAT Use in small quantities to add but is now produced by boiling oyster saltiness to Asian cooking and bring out extract with a mix of seasonings. Thai the flavour of other ingredients; in and Vietnamese fish sauces are larger quantities for flavouring. They prepared by layering anchovies and are rarely used as dipping sauces. other small fish in sea salt in barrels or earthenware pots and leaving the mixture to ferment for up to a year. Some fish sauces smell very strong upon opening, but once they are cooked their pungency softens into attractive flavours, which blend well with other cooking ingredients. Worcestershire sauce XO sauce Oyster sauce Based on an Indian recipe, anchovies, tamarind, A relatively new sauce (invented in the 1980s), This rich, savoury sauce is made by cooking oysters soy, garlic, and spices are matured together. made from dried scallops, oil, chillies, and garlic, but it does not taste very fishy. Use to flavour A smooth sauce with tangy flavours. Use in it has a chunky, oily texture and a salty, spicy taste. Chinese meat and vegetable dishes such as beef traditional British cookery and in a Bloody Mary. Use to enhance seafood and vegetable dishes. in oyster sauce or red stewed aubergines.
V E G E TA B L E S AU C E S | M I S O | 5 2 3 VEGETABLE SAUCES have combined. The sauce is then region in which they are made. surrounding temperature gets too high. strained, puréed, and bottled. Other Chilli-based sauces, made from fresh Once opened, keep in the fridge for Some vegetable sauces, such as North vegetable sauces, such as Tabasco and preserved peppers, are popular 3–6 months. Chilli-based sauces keep American tomato ketchup and English pepper sauce and the various Chinese throughout the world. Traditional for longer. mushroom ketchup, are made by soy bean sauces, are made by mashing, versions can be found in the 3 EAT Serve either as a condiment or cooking the chosen vegetable with salt, salting, and fermenting the chosen Caribbean, in Mexico, and across South use to spice up other dishes, such as vinegar, and a variety of spices until the vegetable in wooden barrels. The America, China, and Thailand, as well stir-fries, soups, and stews. Sauces make consistency thickens and the flavours higher the temperature at which the as in Spain, Portugal, and the USA. good glazes for barbecued, grilled, and fermentation takes place, the darker 1 BUY Check the labels and avoid any roasted meats. Use also as a dipping in colour the resulting sauce will be. sauces that contain long lists of sauce on their own or mixed with soy The fermenting beans may be matured additives. Choose tomato sauces sauce and other ingredients. Some for a few months, or for some years. for sweetness, and chilli-based sauces sauces, including Tabasco and hoisin, are Chinese bean sauces are mixed with for piquancy. strong so need to be used sparingly. rice wine and sugar and a variety of 2 STORE Store in a dark place away other ingredients, depending on the from heat, as vegetable sauces may producer and the traditions of the discolour or start to ferment if the Tabasco sauce Tomato ketchup Mushroom ketchup Matured red peppers are blended with vinegar to This tomato-based condiment has a thick Probably English in origin, this thin but pungently produce a sauce with a strong chilli flavour and consistency that runs on shaking and a sweet and mushroom-flavoured sauce was traditionally served a salty, sour tone. Use to spice up soups, sauces, tangy flavour with a hint of spice. Serve with with roast meats and game. Use instead of and stews, and in Bloody Mary cocktails. hamburgers and grills, and use in sauces. Worcestershire sauce on Welsh rarebit. Yellow bean sauce Black bean sauce Chinese chilli sauce Hoisin sauce Made from fermented soy beans, this sauce has Delicately or strongly flavoured sauce, depending This sauce comes in varying strengths of piquancy, Based on soy, with garlic, chilli, and other spices, a thick, glossy texture and a salty taste. It is widely on the amount of chilli added to it. Use in stir-fry often with sweet undertones. It is usually quite hoisin is thick and smooth with a strong, balanced used in Chinese cooking, especially in pork, and steamed dishes, particularly with beef and thick in texture. Good for dipping, or stir-frying. mixture of garlic and salty, spicy flavours. Use in chicken, and vegetable stir-fries. chicken. Add it towards the end of cooking. Use the stronger versions in Sichuan cuisine. sauces, to glaze meats for roasting, and as a dip. MISO 1 BUY As a general guide, light- 2 STORE Keep in the fridge in 3 EAT Very widely used in Japanese coloured miso tends to be lighter and a tightly sealed container. Except for cooking, particularly in soups, dressings, This is a traditional Japanese seasoning sweeter in flavour; darker miso is very light miso pastes, most will keep and sauces. It is also used as a glaze, paste made from soy beans mixed with stronger and more mature in flavour. for a year or more. If you prefer, you and in marinades, stir-fries, and stews. cereals such as rice, barley, wheat, or Check the labels and avoid sauces can freeze it for a longer storage life. rye, and then fermented. A special containing MSG. Wheat and soy miso yeast mould is used to start the Rice and soy miso This is a medium-strength miso with a good fermentation. The longer the process Barley and soy miso Usually has a smooth and slightly runny texture savoury, salty taste. Use it in vegetable and meat the stronger, darker, and more pungent Made from fermented barley grains and soy beans, and delicate, fruity, nutty flavours. Lighter “white dishes or dilute it with a little water to serve as the flavour. Once fermented, the this relatively thick, dark miso has a strong, salty miso” is sweet in flavour, darker “red miso” is a dip with raw fish dishes or fried bean curd. mixture is ground to a thick paste. flavour and is quite rich. Use for seasoning rich stronger. Use in soups, stews, and marinades. The most common Japanese miso is soups, stews, and sauces. rice based. It comes in various colours and textures, depending on the ingredients used and the length of the fermentation process. In China very similar products are known simply as bean paste. Miso is said to be a healthy substitute for salt as it contains mineral trace elements such as zinc, manganese, and copper, as well as enzymes and vitamin B12.
5 2 4 | O I L S , V I N E G A R S , A N D F L AVO U R I N G S | PA S T E S VEGETABLE PASTES 1 BUY Check the sell-by dates on fresh vegetable pastes, as they do not Simple vegetable pastes are made by have a long shelf life. If buying sun-dried crushing the chosen fresh ingredient tomato paste, check that the tomatoes and then bottling it for later use, but were dried in the sun rather than in some are also concentrated by cooking a dehydrator, for better flavour. before bottling. Vegetable pastes may 2 STORE Once opened, store fresh also be flavoured in a variety of ways, pastes in the fridge and use within depending on the country of origin. a week or so. Concentrated pastes such Sometimes the chosen vegetable is as tahini and tomato paste will last in the preserved first by drying, fermenting, fridge for a year or more. Some pastes or curing. also have preservatives added to give them a longer shelf life. 3 EAT Fresh pastes are used in general Tomato purée Tamarind paste cooking and flavouring throughout the Intense tomato flavour. Use generally in soups, A key ingredient in Indian, Thai, and Chinese food, world and make useful convenience stews, and sauces. In southern Italy tomatoes tamarind paste has a fruity flavour with a tangy foods. Concentrated pastes can be used are dried before they are crushed in order to give sourness. It can be used in place of lemon or as they are or they can be thinned and them a sweeter, more fruity flavour. vinegar in both sweet and savoury dishes. served as dips or added to pasta sauces. Chinese chilli paste Green olive paste Achiote paste This strong chilli paste is flavoured with garlic and This green paste has the lightly bitter taste of A distinctively flavoured paste made from crushed soy beans and has a chunky texture with a spicy unripe olives. Ripe olives are used to make black achiote or annatto seeds mixed with vinegar, garlic, taste. Use it to give piquancy to stir-fry meat, olive paste, which has a stronger, deeper taste. and spices. It is widely used in meat and rice poultry, and vegetable dishes and Chinese stews. Serve both as spreads, or use in pasta dishes. dishes in Mexico and across Central America. Garlic paste Tahini paste Harissa paste Sambal ulek paste This paste offers a strong flavour of garlic. Similar Very thick, smooth paste from the Middle East A fiery chilli paste with a distinctive spicy taste that In this Southeast Asian paste, chillies are mixed pastes of crushed onion and root ginger are also made from crushed sesame seeds. Mix with is widely used in North Africa. It is flavoured with with salt and lime, lemon juice, or vinegar. It is very available. Use in place of the fresh product in any ground chickpeas to make hummus or thin with garlic and coriander, and sometimes caraway. Use strong and hot with a tangy aftertaste. Serve as recipe that calls for crushed garlic. lemon juice to eat with falafel and local dishes. as a rub on barbecue meats or in chilli con carne. a relish, or use to pep up savoury dishes. FISH PASTES 1 BUY Check the label to see that the Anchovy paste Asian shrimp paste paste is pure fish or shellfish with no Intense anchovy flavour. Spread on toast or use to Very pungent aroma and strong fishy taste. Use The two most common types of fish other additives. Avoid surimi products: enhance the flavour of meat pâtés or fish sauces. to add a further dimension and an authentic taste paste are made from cured anchovies these are made from pulverized fish of Butter, herbs, and spices are added to make the to well-flavoured Asian dishes. Use in green and in Europe and from fermented and various kinds and synthetically flavoured. spreadable English invention, Gentleman’s Relish. red curries, and fish and vegetable stir-fries. dried shrimps and other small fish in 2 STORE Fish paste keeps well out of Asia, southern China, Thailand, the fridge. Stronger dried Asian pastes Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia, and the should be put in an airtight container Philippines. There are many different to prevent the flavours being taken up versions available, depending on the by ingredients stored alongside them. type of fish or shellfish used, and the 3 EAT Use as a seasoning and as length of time they are fermented. a flavouring in both European and They are all strong in flavour, but the Asian dishes. Use a knife to take flakes ones that are fermented the longest, off solid-block pastes. Most oriental such as those from Cambodia, are fish pastes have a very strong flavour, very pungent indeed. Some of the so use them sparingly. longest-fermenting pastes are dried into blocks.
S ALTS | 5 2 5 SALTS Avoid table salt or iodized salt for pickles as they can cause clouding of Salt is made up of crystals of sodium the liquid or darkening of the food. chloride. Most table salt is a refined 2 STORE The storage life for salt is type of rock salt, which is mined indefinite; however, it should be kept underground, milled into very small in an airtight container as it will take grains and treated to ensure that it up moisture from the air and become pours easily. Some brands have added lumpy. If this happens, dry in the oven iodine for those who prefer it. Less and break up the lumps. Iodized salt common is sea salt, sometimes known may turn yellow, but this is harmless. as gros sel or “cooking salt”, which is 3 EAT Use as a condiment, obtained by the evaporation of salt seasoning, and a food preserver. from sea water. The crystals are usually larger and may have a light Table salt Rock salt crystals flavour of their own, due to minor The ultimate all-purpose salt in the kitchen. It has The commonest form of salt with a plain, salty impurities that remain in the salt. In a straightforward salty taste that makes it perfect taste. It is mined rather than evaporated from sea some regions traditional methods are for use at the table as a seasoning and across the water. The best choice for use in a salt grinder and used to prepare the salt; sea water is board in all types of general cooking. for pickling onions, gherkins, or walnuts. channelled into open pans and allowed to evaporate naturally in the heat of the sun. Salt may also be flavoured with other ingredients, such as mixed spices, celery, or garlic. Some sea salt is cold smoked (smoked with wood chippings at cold temperatures). 1 BUY Choose rock salt crystals or pickling salt for food preservation. Sea salt is unsuitable for food preservation because of the minerals it contains. Black salt Celery salt Maldon sea salt The colour of this lava salt is due to various This has a strong flavour of celery from the ground Made in Maldon in Essex for over two hundred impurities that give it a distinctive smoky, bitter celery seeds that are mixed with the table salt. years, this salt is famous for its lack of bitterness. taste. It is an important ingredient in chat masala Use to season soups, stews, and other dishes that It is often the chef ’s first choice for seasoning, spice mix, which is used in many Indian curries. call for fresh celery when it is not available. due to its distinctive, clean, fresh flavour. Himalayan rock salt Murray River pink salt Fleur de Sel sea salt This is the name given to rock salt from Pakistan. This Australian speciality is produced in the Murray This is the purest form of sea salt, derived from It contains trace elements, which give it a strong Darling Basin. The peach-coloured flakes have the top layer of salt formed in salt pans. The mineral flavour and a touch of sulphur. Its pretty a sweetish, slightly floral taste. Use sprinkled over Guérande area of France is famous for it. Use colour looks good on the table. Use as other salts. sweeter foods, in salad dressings, and in baking. sparingly, as it has a sharp, pure, salty flavour. Garlic salt Sel épicé Smoked sea salt This has a concentrated garlic taste from the Spiced salt has a mixed herb and spice flavour, Salty and lightly smoky taste. Use to add interest powdered dried garlic that is mixed with the table depending on the added ingredients chosen by to simple dishes where the unusual flavour will be salt. Use it to season soups, stews, and other the producer. Used widely in French cooking, allowed to come through, such as chilled soups, dishes when fresh garlic is not available. particularly in salad dressings, soups, and stews. white sauces, and grilled fish or chicken.
526 | INDEX INDEX American knackwurst 175 Jerusalem see Jerusalem Barbados cherry 436 American lobster 83 artichokes Barbados sugar 517 Recipe names in italics American mettwurst 176 barbecue sauce 522 American striped bass 33 asafoetida 347 barbecuing poultry 127, 131 A American yellow perch 56–7 Asian leafy greens 190–92 barberries 333 Ami du Chambertin cheese 394 Asian marinade 103 barding game 139 abalone 74 Anaheim peppers 259 Asian pears 425 Barhi dates 439 abalone with oyster sauce 74 Ancho chillies 339 Asian shrimp paste 524 Barkham Blue cheese 381 anchovies 47 asparagus 208 barley 484 Abate Fetel pears 423 barley and soy miso 523 achacha 473 anchovy paste 524 chargrilled asparagus with barley couscous 504 achiote paste 524 marinated anchovies 47 hollandaise 208 barnacles, goose 91 ackee 469 salted anchovies 96 barracuda 27 acorn squash 237 Andalucian varietal olive oil Ataulfo mangoes 463 barramundi 50–51 adzuki beans 251 Atlantic cod 18 basil 300–301 adzuki beansprouts 254 blend 511 Atlantic halibut 67 African sharptooth catfish 52 andouillette 169 Atlantic herrings 48 pesto 301 agar-agar 279 angelica 285 Atlantic mackerel 42 basil oil 514 agastache 284 anise 352 Atlantic needlefish 62–3 basmati rice 497 aioli 255 anise hyssop 284 Atlantic salmon 60–61 bass 33 air-dried meats 166–7 Anjou pears 423 Atlantic smoked salmon 94 Ají amarillo chillies 337 annatto 333 Atlantic wolf-fish 31 sea bass in a salt crust 33 ajowan 356–7 Annurca apples 416 aubergines 260–61 Batavian endive 196 akudjura 356 Anya potatoes 227 bay 295 Alaskan pollock 20–21 Appenzeller cheese 399 baba ganoush 261 bay boletes 274 Alba truffles 277 apple and cider vinegar 515 moussaka 118 bay scallops 78 Albion strawberries 445 apple mint 297 ratatouille 231 Bayonne ham 164 alcohol, preserving fruit in 415 apples 416–17 Australian whiting 21 bean thread noodles 507 alfalfa sprouts 254 avocado leaves 359 beans Allgäuer Bergkäse cheese 399 apple sauce 418 avocado oil 512 allspice 353 apple strudel 417 avocados 264–5 dried beans 250–53 almond oil 512 dried apples 475 guacamole 265 fresh beans 244–6 almonds 318 spiced baked apples with insalata tricolore 376 sprouted beans 254 Ayrshire cure bacon 160 Tuscan bean soup 252 almond macaroons 318 walnuts 421 Azeitão cheese 392 béarnaise sauce 287 apricot and almond tart 430 tarte Tatin 419 couscous with pine nuts and apricots 430 B châteaubriand with apricot and almond tart 430 béarnaise 108 almonds 504 dried apricots 475 baba ganoush 261 romesco sauce 320 arame 278 Babcock peaches 433 Beaufort cheese 398 stuffed dates 439 Arbequina olives 438 bacon 160–61 Bedana pomegranate 465 trout with almonds 59 Arbequina varietal olive oil 510 beech honeydew 521 Alphonso mangoes 463 Arbroath smokies 92 quiche Lorraine 161 beef 106–9 Amalfi lemons 453 Arctic char 59 baking fruit 413 amande 77 Arctic cod 18 bakkwa 166 châteaubriand with amaranth 485 Arctic Glo nectarines 433 Balmain bugs 84 béarnaise 108 amberjack, greater 34 Ardrahan cheese 392 balsamic vinegars 516 Ambrosia melon 458 argan oil 512 Bamberger potatoes 226 cooking chart 108–9 amchoor 349 Armenian cucumber 238 bamboo shoots 204 cuts 106–7 chat masala 349 Aroma apples 417 banana shallots 242 lasagne al forno 501 American bacon 160 aromatic ginger 330 bananas 466–7 salt beef 162 American Bockwurst 176 aromatic leaves 359 sausages 168 American bratwurst 175 artichokes 202–3 banana bread 467 beefsteak tomatoes 267–8 American frankfurters 175 steamed artichokes 202 dried bananas 474 Beenleigh Blue cheese 381 Banon cheese 379 beetroot 214–15 borscht 215 Belle de Boskoop apples 416
INDEX | 527 Beluga caviar 98 rote grütze 444 boudin noir 171 brown edible crabs 86 Benicarló artichokes 203 blackcurrants 448 Boulette d’Avesnes cheese 379 brown lentils 253 beremeal 484 blackstrap molasses 520 bouquet garni 283 brown mustard seeds 334 bergamot 298 bladderwrack 278 Bourrée cheese 397 brown rice 496 Berkswell cheese 399 blanching nuts 317 Boursin 374 brown shrimp 84 berries 440–47 blanket tripe 153 Bouton-de-Culotte cheese 379 brown trout 58 beurre blanc 372 blé 491 Bowles’ mint 296 brown Turkey figs 427 Bleu d’Auvergne cheese 381 boysenberries 441 brown udon rice noodles 505 grilled halibut with 67 Bleu de Gex Haut-Jura Braeburn apples 416 browning meat 105 Beurré Bosc pears 422 brains 154 Brussels sprouts 187 Beurre d’Échiré 373 cheese 383 braising Buckler Leaf sorrel 307 Beurre d’Isigny 373 Bleu des Causses cheese 381 buckling 93 Beurré Hardy pears 422 blinis 486 beef 109 buckwheat 486 Beyaz Peynir cheese 374 blitva and potatoes 195 lamb and mutton 119 bhajis, onion 241 bloaters 94 meat 105 blinis 486 bi-coloured sweetcorn 257 blood oranges 451 pork 115 buckwheat galettes 486 biltong 166 blood pudding 171 poultry 127 buffalo 143 Bintje potatoes 223 blue cheese dressing 385 veal 111 Buffalo Blue cheese 384 biscuits blue cheeses 381–5 venison 141 buffalo’s milk 369 blue cod 23 Bramley apples 421 bulghur 491 almond macaroons 318 blue crabs 86 bran tabbouleh 491 cheese straws 402 Blue Monday cheese 382 oat 489 buna-shimeji mushrooms 275 oatcakes 489 blueberries 440 rice 497 Bündnerfleisch 166 rye crispbreads 490 wheat 494 burdock 221 shortbread 495 blueberry muffins 440 brandade de morue 97 burpless cucumbers 239 star anise biscuits 348 dried blueberries 474 Brandywine tomatoes 267 bush basil 300 bison 143 Blushing Beauty peppers 258 brassicas 186–9 butter 364, 371, 372–3 bitter almonds 318 blutwurst 173 bratwurst 169, 175 beurre blanc 372 bitter melon 233 boar 142 Braunschweiger 174 caper butter 335 bitter oranges 450 boar sausages 169 Brazil nuts 318 clarified butter 365 black bean sauce 523 Bockwurst 176 bread 481–2 Hollandaise sauce 373 black cardamom 331 bogue 25 cornbread 487 sizzling sage butter 309 black cherry tomatoes 266 boiling flatbread 494 butter beans 244, 250 black-eyed beans 252 eggs 365 manaqish 312 butterfly leg of lamb 103 Black Forest ham 164 shellfish 73 wholemeal bread 482 butterhead lettuce 199 black ink pasta 500 vegetables 184 breadfruit 269 buttermilk 368 Black Mission figs 427 bok choy 190 bream 24–6 butternut squash 236 black mustard seeds 334 boletes 274 sea bream en papilotte 25 butterscotch dessert sauce 373 black pepper 353 Bologna 174 bream, freshwater 55 button mushrooms 271 black peppermint 297 Bombay duck 96 bresaola 166 black pomfret 37 bones 158 Brie de Meaux cheese 389 C black pudding 171 Boniato sweet potatoes 229 Brie de Melun cheese 388 black salt 525 bonito 42–3 brill 68–9 cabbage 186 black sea bream 24 borage 198 Brillat-Savarin cheese 390 Caboc cheese 375 black spot bream 24 boreks 375 broad beans 244 Cabrales cheese 382 black treacle 520 borlotti beans 252 broad bean dip 245 cacciatorini 177 black truffle oil 514 Tuscan bean soup 252 dried broad beans 253 Caciotta cheese 392 black truffles 277 borscht 215 broccoli 189 cactus pad 202 black turtle beans 253 bottarga di muggine 98 Chinese stir-fried broccoli 189 Caerphilly cheese 398 black walnuts 323 bottle gourds 233 bronze fennel 292 Cailletier varietal olive oil 510 Black Zebra tomatoes 265 bottling fruit 414 brook trout 59 blackberries 441 boudin blanc 171
528 | INDEX Cajun andouille 175 carrots 183, 218–19 cheese chilli oil 514 cakes carrot cake 219 aged fresh cheeses 378–80 chilli powder 339 baked cardoons with cheese 204 chilli sauce 523 banana bread 467 Cascabel chillies 338 blue cheese dressing 385 carrot cake 219 Cashel Blue cheese 382 blue cheeses 381–5 barbecue sauce 522 cinnamon rolls 341 cashews 319 boreks 375 chillies 336–9 ginger cake 361 buying 364 calabrese 189 spiced cashews 319 Camembert en boîte 389 harissa 339 calamint 288 cassava 228 cheese sauce 403 mole poblana 133 Calanda peaches 433 casseroling see stewing cheese soufflé 399 Thai dipping sauce 290 Calcagno cheese 408 cassia 341 cheese straws 402 Chimay à la Bière cheese 393 Calçot onions 241 Castelluccio lentils 253 flavour-added cheeses 408–9 chimichurri 306 caldereta Asturiana 79 Castelmagno cheese 402 fresh cheeses 374–7 Chinese black rice vinegar 516 caldo verde 193 caster sugar 517 haddock mornay 20 Chinese broccoli 191 calf ’s liver 150, 151 catfish 52 hard cheeses 398–407 Chinese celery 286 fegato alla Veneziana 151 insalata tricolore 376 Chinese chilli paste 524 Cambozola cheese 385 deep-fried catfish 53 lasagne al forno 501 Chinese chilli sauce 523 Camembert de Normandie 388 catnip 299 macaroni cheese 499 Chinese chives 284 Camembert en boîte 389 cauliflower 188 pesto 301 Chinese dark soy sauce 522 Canary melon 458 cavalo nero 193 quiche Lorraine 161 Chinese dried mushrooms 270 candied fruits 474, 477 caviar 98 raclette 397 Chinese egg noodles 506 candied peel 415 cayenne chillies 336 semi-soft cheeses 392–7 Chinese flat cabbage 192 candlenuts 319 cayenne powder 339 soft white cheeses 388–91 Chinese Fuji apples 419 cannellini beans 250 cedna 167 storage 364 Chinese leaf 191 Tuscan bean soup 252 celeriac 211 Swiss cheese fondue 405 Chinese light soy sauce 522 canola oil 513 celery 205, 286 Welsh rarebit 407 Chinese mustard greens 191 Cantal cheese 403 celery salt 525 Chinese red rice vinegar 516 caper berries 335 celery seeds 286 cherimoya 472 Chinese spinach 190 caper buds 335 Central American shrimps 85 cherries 436 Chinese stir-fried broccoli 189 capers 335 ceps 274 Chinese wheat noodles 506 caper butter 335 cervelas 176 cherry pie 436 Chinese white rice vinegar 516 skate with beurre noir Chabichou du Poitou dried cherries 474 chipolatas 170 rote grütze 444 Chipotle chillies 338 and capers 64 cheese 379 cherry radishes 209 chips, deep-fried cod and 19 cappelletti 501 châir à saucisse 170 cherry tomatoes 266 chives 284 Capricorn Goat cheese 390 champagne vinegar 515 chervil 286 chocolate caramel Chandler strawberries 445 Cheshire cheese 402 mole poblana 133 Chantenay carrots 218 chestnut honey 521 poires belle Hélène 423 caramel sauce 517 chanterelles 274 chestnut mushrooms 270 chocolate mint 297 crème brûlée 370 chestnuts 321 Choricero chillies 338 dulce de leche 369 viltgryta 140 Chevrotin cheese 393 chorizo 178 caraway 340 Chaource cheese 391 chicken 128–33 chorizo fresco 169 caraway soup 340 char 58–9 chicken Kiev 130 fabada 171 cardamom 346 chard 195 chicken hearts 153 chouriço de sangue 172 cardamom, black 331 Charentais melon 459 chicken livers 150, 151 chowder cardoon 204 Charleston Gray chickpea sprouts 254 New England clam chowder 77 baked cardoons with cheese 204 chickpeas 251 sweetcorn chowder 256 carne de sol 166 watermelon 461 falafel 251 chrysanthemum, edible 192 Carosello Barese Charlotte potatoes 226 hummus 250 chub mackerel 43 charqui 167 chicory 196–7 chutney, mango 463 cucumbers 238 chat masala 349 Chilaca chillies 338 cider vinegar 515 carp 54–5 châteaubriand with chilli flakes 339 Cindel tomatoes 265 gefilte fish 54 béarnaise 108 Carré de l’Est cheese 393 chayote 239 Cheddar cheese 403 cheeks 155
INDEX | 529 cinnamon 340–41 corn 487 crispbreads, rye 490 vegetables 184 cinnamon rolls 341 corn meal 487 crisphead lettuce 200 deep-water prawns 85 corn oil 513 crisps, sweet potato 229 Deglet Noor dates 439 citron lemons 453 corn on the cob 256–7 croakers 38 Delicata squash 232 citron peel, candied 477 corn pasta 498 crookneck squash 231 demerara sugar 517 citrus fruit oil 514 corn syrup 520 Crottin de Chavignol dentex 25 citrus fruits 343, 450–55 cornbread 487 Desiree potatoes 225 citrus peel, candied 474 corned beef 163 cheese 379 diaphragm 153 clams 76–7 Cornish Blue cheese 383 Crown Prince squash 233 dill 285 cos lettuce 199 crystallized ginger 361 diots 174 caldereta Asturiana 79 Costoluto Fiorentino cubeb 352 dips New England clam chowder 77 cucumber 238–9 clarified butter 365 tomatoes 267 broad bean dip 245 clary sage 309 Costoluto Genovese baked salmon with salsa verde hummus 250 claytonia 290 and cucumber 61 Discovery apples 417 clementines 451 tomatoes 268 Dolcelatte cheese 383 clotted cream 370 cotechino 169 raita 239 dolphin fish 34–5 cloud ears 276 courgettes 230 culantro 291 Donut peaches 432 cloudberries 440 Culatello ham 164 Dorset Blue Vinny cheese 382 clover honey 521 ratatouille 231 cullen skink 94 Dover sole 68 cloves 356 couscous 483, 504 Cumberland sausage 168 Doyenné du Comice cobnuts 320 cumin 342 cockles 76 couscous with pine nuts Cuor di Bue tomatoes 267 pears 423 coconut 316, 439 and almonds 504 cured meat and sausages 160–79 dragon fruit 470 dried coconut 475 curly endive 196 dressing, blue cheese 385 cod 18 cow’s milk 368 curly kale 193 dried and candied fruits 474–7 deep-fried cod and chips 19 cow’s yogurt 372 curly parsley 306 dried fish 96–7 salt cod 97 Cox’s Orange Pippin currants 448 dried meats 166–7 cod’s roe 99 drums 38 taramasalata 99 apples 416 dried currants 477 dry-cured bacon 160 Coe’s Golden Drop plums 429 crabs 86–7 curry leaves 349 dry-cured hams 164–5 Coeur de Neufchâtel cuskeels 38–9 Dry Jack cheese 403 dressed crab 87 custard 369 dry-roasting spices 328 cheese 388 Thai crab cakes 86 custard apples 472 dry salt-cured olives 438 cold-smoked fish 94–5 cracked grit 484 cutlass fish 44–5 drying coley 19 cracked wheat 491 cuttlefish 90–91 collards 192 cranberries 441 fruit 415 comb honey 521 cranberry jelly 441 D herbs 282 Comté cheese 399 dried cranberries 474 vegetables 185 conchiglie 500 crawfish 82 dab 66 Dublin Bay prawns 81 Concord grapes 437 crayfish, freshwater 81 daikon 209 duck 134–5 condensed milk 369 cream 364–5, 370 dairy and eggs 362–409 duck confit 135 conehead thyme 313 crème brûlée 370 damsons 429 duck in orange sauce 134 Conference pears 422 pannacotta with Danablu cheese 382 smoked duck 163 confit, duck 135 dandelion 197 wild ducks 148–9 conger eel 63 strawberry purée 370 Danish Blue cheese 382 duck eggs 367 Congo Blue potatoes 227 cream cheese 375 Danziger Kantapfel apples 416 dulce de leche 369 Constant Bliss cheese 391 crème anglaise 369 date syrup 520 dulse 279 coppa 164 crème brûlée 370 dates 439 Dungeness crab 87 coral trout 32 crème fraîche 370 durian 472 Coratina varietal olive oil 511 crème pâtissière 368 stuffed dates 439 coriander 290, 342 Crenshaw melon 458 deep-frying Corinthian balsamic vinegar 516 crépinettes 170 Crescenza cheese 375 fruit 413 Cretan dittany 302 shellfish 73 Crevalle Jack 34 crevette rose 85 Crimini mushrooms 270
530 | INDEX E farfalle 499 flax seeds 324 citrus fruits 450–55 farro 491 Fleur de Maquis cheese 378 cooking techniques 413 ears 155 fat 158 Fleur de Sel sea salt 525 discoloration 412 East Asian purple fava beans 253 Florence fennel 205 dried and candied fruits 474–7 feet 157 Florida pompano 35 orchard fruits 416–25 aubergines 261 fegato alla Veneziana 151 flour preparation 413 Edam cheese 393 feijoa 471 preserving 414–15 edamame 246 Femminello lemons 453 amaranth 485 ripening 412 Edzell Blue potatoes 225 fennel 205 beremeal 484 stone fruits 428–39 eels 62 buckwheat 486 storage 412 fennel gratin 205 millet 488 tropical fruit 464–71 smoked eel 92 fennel (herb) 292 quinoa 485 fruit syrups 520 eggs 364–7 fennel seeds 292 rye 490 fruit vinegars 515 fenugreek 358 wheat 494 fruiting vegetables 258–69 crème anglaise 369 feta cheese 375 Flower Marie cheese 390 frying crème brûlée 370 fettuccine 500 flowers, borage 198 beef 109 eggs Benedict 366 field mushrooms 274 flying fish 62–3 chicken 131 folded omelette 367 figs 427 flying fish roe 99 fish 17 Spanish omelette 223 fondue, Swiss cheese 405 lamb and mutton 119 Egyptian brown beans 252 baked figs with cinnamon Fontina cheese 393 meat 105 Eisbein ham 162 and honey 427 Formaggio Ubriaco cheese 409 pork 115 elderberries 447 Fourme d’Ambert cheese 382 spices 328 elenski but 164 dried figs 475 Fragrans geranium 304 veal 111 elephant garlic 255 filini 498 frankfurters 175 venison 141 elongated beetroot 215 filleting fish 16 Frantoio varietal olive oil 511 see also deep-frying Elsanta strawberries 445 filmjölk 369 Freckles lettuce 199 Fuerte avocados 264 Elstar apples 417 finger carrots 218 freekeh 491 fuet catalan 177 emperor bream 26 finger limes 454 freezing fugu 45 endive 196 fingerroot 330 fish 14 Fuji apples 419 English lavender 291 Finnan haddock 94 fruit 415 fungi 270–77 English walnuts 323 Fino de Jete Campa herbs 282 fusilli 498 enoki mushrooms 271 meat 102 Fuyu persimmon 468 epazote 288 cherimoya 472 vegetables 185 Fuzzy Hayward kiwi fruit 462 Epoisses de Bourgogne fish and seafood 12–99 fregola 504 French beans 244 G cheese 392 buying 14 French Breakfast radishes 209 escarole 196 cooking techniques 16–17 French butter 371 Gala apples 418 escolar 44 endangered fish 14 French fingerling potatoes 223 galangal 329, 330–31 eucalyptus honey 521 freshwater fish 18–49, 50–61 French green lentils 253 galettes, buckwheat 486 Eureka lemons 453 preparation 15–16 French grey shallots 242 Galia melon 459 European anchovies 47 preserved fish 92–7 French lavender 291 game 138–49 European eels 62 roe 98–9 French marigolds 289 European hake 23 saltwater fish 18–49, 62–9 French onion soup 240 furred game 140–45 European soldier beans 250 shellfish 72–87 frisée 196 game birds 146–9 European sprats 48 storage 14 fritters, salsify 220 gammon 161 evaporated milk 369 fish pastes 524 frogs’ legs 91 honey-roast ham 162 Evergreen tomatoes 268 fish sauces 522 fromage frais 375 Gaperon cheese 390 flageolet beans 245 frosted fruit 415 garam masala 329 F dried flageolet beans 250 fruit 410–77 garden peas 247 flaked rice 497 berries 440–47 garfish 62 fabada 171 flatbread 494 buying 412 faggots 173 Flavor Queen pluots 429 falafel 251 Flavor Rich pluots 428 Flavortop nectarines 433 flax oil, cold-pressed 513
INDEX | 531 garlic 255 goose eggs 367 vegetables 184 Hass avocados 264 aïoli 255 gooseberries 448 venison 141 Havarti cheese 392 garlic oil 514 Gorgonzola cheese 384 grit, cracked 484 Hawaiian papaya 464 garlic paste 524 Gouda cheese 402 grits 487 hazelnut oil 512 garlic salt 525 gourds 236 groats, oat 489 hazelnuts 320 snails in garlic butter 91 grain vinegars 516–17 ground rice 497 grains 484–91, 504–7 groundnut oil 513 romesco sauce 320 Garrotxa cheese 399 grains of Paradise 332 groupers 32 heads 155 gazpacho 269 Grana Padano cheese 405 grouse 146 heart 152–3 gefilte fish 54 granadilla, sweet 466 grunts 38 heart of palm 202 geoduck clams 76–7 Granny Smith apples 418 Gruyère cheese 403 heather honey 521 geranium, scented 304–5 grano 491 guacamole 265 hedgehog fungus 276 German bockwurst 176 granulated sugar 517 Guajillo chillies 338 Helda beans 244 German frankfurters 173 grape molasses 520 guanabana 473 hen eggs 366 German knackwurst 174 grape tomatoes 266 guavas 471 hen of the woods 277 German mettwurst 176 grapefruit 452 Gubbeen cheese 395 herbs 280–313 ghee 373 grapes 437 Guindilla chillies 338 herring roe 98 giant black tiger prawns 85 grapeseed oil 513 guinea pig 144 Giant Pascal celery 205 grass carp 54 gull eggs 367 salted herring roe 98 gilt head bream 24 Grasten apples 418 gurnard 29 herrings 48 ginger 329 gratins gutting fish 15 maatjes herrings 96 ginger cake 361 fennel gratin 205 H hijiki 278 ginkgo nuts 322 gratin dauphinois 227 Himalayan rock salt 525 Gippsland Blue cheese 381 Gratte-Paille cheese 391 Habanero chillies 337 hoisin sauce 523 girasole 501 gravadlax 60 Hachiya persimmon 468 hoja santa 359 girolles 274 Graviera cheese 403 haddock 20–21 Hojiblanca varietal olive gizzards 157 gravy 127 Gjetost cheese 374 Greek oregano 303 haddock mornay 20 oil blend 510 globe artichokes see artichokes Greek sage 309 smoked haddock 94–5 Hollandaise sauce 373 globe tomatoes 265 green lentils 253 haggis 173 Gloster apples 418 green-lipped mussels 79 hake 22–3 chargrilled asparagus with 208 gnocchi, potato 224 green olive paste 524 halibut 67 eggs Benedict 366 goat 121 green peppercorn chèvre 388 grilled halibut with beurre blanc holy basil 300 goatfish 27 green peppercorns 353 Holy Goat La Luna cheese 378 goat’s butter 373 green tea noodles 507 67 honey 521 goat’s cheeses 377–9, 388, green walnuts 323 smoked halibut 95 honey pomelo 454 greengages 428 Halloumi cheese 374 honey-roast ham 162 390–91, 393, 406 greenhouse cucumbers 239 ham 161–2 honey vinegar 515 goat’s milk 369 grey gurnard 29 dry-cured hams 164–5 honeycomb 520 goat’s yogurt 372 grey mullet 26 honey-roast ham 162 honeycomb tripe 153 goji berries, dried 477 griddling meat 105 Hamburg parsley 211 Honeydew melon 460 Golden Delicious apples 419 grilling hard-shell clams 77 horn of plenty 276 golden-leaved oregano 303 beef 108 hare 145 horse 121 Golden Queen tomatoes 265 chicken 131 jugged hare 145 horseradish 287 golden syrup 520 fish 16 haricot beans 245 horseradish cream 287 fruit 413 harina especial para freir Hosui Asian pears 425 honeycomb 520 lamb and mutton 118 hot-smoked fish 92–3 golden threadfin sea bream 25 pork 114 flour 494 houttuynia 293 Goldstrike apricots 430 shellfish 73 harissa 339 huazontle 193 goose 136 veal 111 harissa paste 524 huckleberries 440 haslet 172 hummus 250 smoked goose 163 Hungarian Wax stuffed goose neck 172 goose barnacles 91 peppers 259 hyssop 293
532 | INDEX I Japanese rice vinegar 516 kidney beans 251 Langres cheese 394 Jarlsberg cheese 393 kidneys 150, 152 lap cheong 178 Ibérico cheese 404 jasmine rice 496 kielbasa 175 lap yuk 160 ice cream jellies 414 kiln-roasted salmon 93 larding game 139 King Edward potatoes 224 lardo 160 lavender ice cream 294 cranberry jelly 441 king mackerel 43 lasagne 499, 501 strawberry semifreddo 445 jerky 167 king scallops 78 vanilla ice cream 358 Jersey cow’s milk 368 kingclip 39 lasagne al forno 501 iceberg lettuce 200 Jersey Royal potatoes 223 kippers 95 lassi 372 icing sugar 517 Jerusalem artichokes 229 kishimen noodles 506 lavender 294 Ida Red apples 419 Jésus de Lyon 178 kishka 172 Idiazábal cheese 408 Jewel sweet potatoes 229 kiwi fruit 462 lavender ice cream 294 Imperator carrots 219 jewfish 32 knackwurst 173, 175 lavender honey 521 Indian goatfish 27 jicama 213 kob 38 leafy greens, Asian 190–92 Indian vermicelli 506 jinhua ham 165 kohlrabi 210 leatherwood honey 521 Ingrid Marie apples 421 John dory 28 kokam 347 leaves and leafy greens 192–201 Innes Button cheese 375 jointing rabbits 138 Korean chillies 337 insalata tricolore 376 Jonathan apples 420 Korean mint 284 aromatic leaves 359 intestines 153 jowls 155 Koroneiki varietal olive oil blend Lebanese cucumbers 239 Irish stew 120 jugged hare 145 Lebanon Bologna 178 Israeli couscous 504 julienne vegetables 183 511 Leberwurst 176 Italia grapes 437 juniper 348 kulvaliha 167 Leccino varietal olive oil 511 Italian long white kumquats 455 leeks 243 K aubergines 260 spiced kumquats 455 vichyssoise 243 Italian round aubergines 261 Kabocha squash 237 lemon balm 296 Italian striped aubergines 260 Kaffir limes 343 L lemon basil 300 Kalamata olives 438 lemon geranium 304 J kale 193 lá lót leaves 359 lemon grass 345 La Ratte potatoes 226 lemon myrtle 332 Jack 34 caldo verde 193 La Tanche varietal olive oil 510 lemon peel, preserved 343 Jack Be Little squash 236 kamut 491 Labane cheese 376 lemon sole 65 jack mackerel 34 kangaroo 143 Lady Finger bananas 467 lemon thyme 313 Jaffa oranges 450 Karikaas Vintage Leyden cheese Lady Plymouth geranium 304 lemon verbena 285 jaggery sugar 517 lady’s fingers 257 lemons 453 Jalapeño chillies 337 409 Lake Garda varietal olive oil jam 414 kasha 486 lemon sorbet 453 kashk 372 blend 510 lentil sprouts 254 marmalade 451 Kashmir chillies 338 lamb 116–19 lentils 253 plum jam 429 kassler 163 lettuce 199–200 strawberry jam 444 kedgeree 95 butterfly leg of lamb 103 lettuce basil 301 Jamaican hot chillies 337 kelp 279 cooking chart 118–19 lights (lungs) 152 jambon de Paris 161 Kennebec potatoes 225 cuts 116–17 lima beans 251 jambonneau 162 Kensington Pride mangoes 463 lamb koftas 117 lime basil 301 jamón bellota 165 Kent Fuji apples 419 moussaka 118 lime blossom honey 521 jamón cocido 161 Kent mangoes 463 roasting 104 limes 454 jamón Ibérico 164 Kentish cobnuts 320 lamb’s heart 152 jamón serrano 165 keta 99 lamb’s lettuce 201 dried limes 343 Japanese brown rice vinegar 517 ketchup lamb’s liver 151 Lincolnshire Poacher Japanese flying fish 63 Lampascioni onions 242 Japanese mustard spinach 191 mushroom 523 Lancashire cheese 404 cheese 404 tomato 523 Landjäger 178 Linda potatoes 226 kid 121 lane snapper 36 Linden honey 521 ling 21 linguiça 178 linguine 500 linseed 324
INDEX | 533 linseed oil 513 malt vinegar 516 lamb koftas 117 Monterey Jack cheese 394 liquorice 346 mammee apples 473 Swedish meatballs 114 Montmorency cherries 436 liquorice basil 301 manaqish 312 Mediterranean marinade 103 Montserrat tomatoes 267 Little Gem lettuce 200 Manchego cheese 404 Medjool dates 439 mooli 209 Little Wallop cheese 391 mandolins, slicing medlars 426 moray eel 63 Livarot cheese 394 megrim 68 Morbier cheese 395 liver 150, 151 vegetables 183 melon 458–60 morcilla de Burgos 172 lobster 83 mangetout 247 melon and prosciutto 459 mangoes 463 melt (spleen) 156 fabada 171 lobster bisque 82 Meredith Blue cheese 384 Morcón 178 lobster thermidor 83 dried mangoes 475 merguez sausages 168 Morello cherries 436 lobsterettes 81 mango chutney 463 Merveille de Quatre Saisons morels 275 loganberries 444 mangosteens 473 Moreton Bay bugs 84 lollo rosso 201 manioc 228 lettuce 200 morid cod 23 lomo embuchado 167 manuka honey 521 Mettwurst 176 Moroccan mint 296 long black pepper 353 Manzanilla olives 438 Mexican mint marigold 289 Moroccan mint tea 297 long-grain rice 496 Manzanilla varietal olive oil 510 Mexican oregano 302 mortadella di Bologna 173 longans 470 maple syrup 520 Mexican papaya 464 moules marinière 79 loose-leaf lettuce 199 Marfona potatoes 223 Meyer lemons 453 mountain mint 297 loquats 427 marigolds 289 mezzaluna, chopping herbs 283 mountain pepper 356–7 Lorne sausage 171 marinades micromeria 298 moussaka 118 lotus nuts 323 for game 139 microwave drying, herbs 282 mozzarella di bufala 376 lotus roots 221 for meat 103 Middle Eastern varietal olive oil muffins lovage 295 for poultry 126 Lucullus cheese 388 Maris Piper potatoes 224 blend 510 blueberry muffins 440 lumpfish roe 99 marjoram 302 Mieze Schindler strawberries eggs Benedict 366 lunette 501 marlin 46 mugwort 288 lungs (lights) 152 marmalade 451 445 mulberries 447 lupin seeds 325 Marrone del Mugello chestnuts milk 364, 368–9 mullet 26–7 lychees 470 mulloway 38 321 crème anglaise 369 mung beans 251 M marrow, bone 158 crème pâtissière 368 mung beansprouts 254 marrows, vegetable 237 dulce de leche 369 Munster cheese 395 maatjes herrings 96 marsh samphire 278 rice pudding 497 Murcott 454 macadamia oil 512 masa harina 487 Milleens cheese 396 murex 75 macadamias 318 mascarpone 377 millet 488 Murray cod 50–51 macaroni 499 mastic 355 Mimolette cheese 404 Murray River pink salt 525 matsutake mushrooms 276 minneolas 454 Muscat Rosada grapes 437 macaroni cheese 499 mature red wine vinegar 515 mint 296–7 Muscat vinegar 515 macaroons, almond 318 Maytag Blue cheese 385 Moroccan mint tea 297 muscovado sugar 517 mace 351 meagre 38 Mirabelle plums 429 mushrooms 270–76 mackerel 42–3 meat Mirasol chillies 336 mushroom ketchup 523 miso 523 mushroom soup 275 salt mackerel 97 buying 102 mitsuba 290 musk cucumbers 473 smoked mackerel 93 cooking techniques 104–5 mizuna 19 muskmelon 459 smoked mackerel pâté 42 cured meat and sausages molasses 520 mussels 79 mahlab 354 molasses sugar 517 caldereta Asturiana 79 Mahón cheese 405 160–79 mole poblana 133 moules marinières 79 maitake mushrooms 277 game 138–49 Moneymaker tomatoes 265 smoked mussels 92 maize 256–7 offal 150–59 monkfish 39 mustard 334 Maldon sea salt 525 preparation 103 monkfish wrapped in mustard vinaigrette 334 mallard 148 resting 104 mustard cabbage 191 stock 105 prosciutto 39 storage 102 Mont d’Or cheese 395 meatballs Monte Enebro cheese 380
534 | INDEX mustard greens 192 okra 257 pak choy 190 pears 422–5 mustard oil 513 Olivade tomatoes 268 Palet de Bourgogne cheese 395 dried pears 476 mutton 118–21 Olivastra varietal olive oil 510 palm hearts 202 pears in red wine 424 olive oil 510–11 palm oil 512 poires belle Hélène 423 Irish stew 120 Panama passion fruit 466 muzzles 154 vinaigrette 511 pancetta 161 peas 247 myrtle 299 olives 438 pancreas sweetbreads 156 dried peas 253 pandan 303 petits pois à la française 247 N olive paste 524 paneer 376 tapenade 438 pannacotta with strawberry purée Pecan Chèvre cheese 380 naengmyun noodles 507 omelettes pecans 322 Nagelkaas cheese 409 folded omelette 367 370 nam pla sauce 522 Spanish omelette 223 Pant-Ys-Gawn cheese 377 pecan pie 322 nameko mushrooms 271 onions 240–42 Pantano Romanesco tomatoes Pêche de Vigne peaches 433 Nantes carrots 218 French onion soup 240 Pecorino Romano cheese 405 navel oranges 451 Irish stew 120 267 Pecorino Sardo cheese 405 Nduja 178 onion bhajis 241 papaya 464 Pecorino Tartufo cheese 409 neck, poultry 157 Spanish omelette 223 peel nectarines 432, 433 orach 288 dried papaya 476 needlefish 62–3 orange blossom honey 521 pappardelle 501 candied peel 415, 474, 477 nettles 19 orange oil 514 paprika 335 dried citrus peel 343 Neufchâtel cheese 388 orange roughy 23 Pardina lentils 253 pemmican 167 New England clam chowder 77 orange-scented thyme 313 parsley 306 penne 500 New Zealand blue cod 23 oranges 450–51 peperonata 259 Niçoise-Coquillos olives 438 duck in orange sauce 134 chimichurri 306 Peperoncino peppers 259 Nicola potatoes 226 marmalade 451 tabbouleh 491 pepino 469 nigella seeds 350 orchard fruits 416–25 parsnips 211 peppercorns 352–3 Nijisseiki Asian pears 425 orecchiette 498 partridge 146 peppercorn sauce 353 Nile perch 50 oregano 302–3 Pasilla chillies 339 peppermint 297 noodles 480, 483, 505–7 oriental radishes 209 Passe Crassane pears 424 pepperoni 179 nori 279 orzo 499 passion fruit 466 peppers 258–9 nut oils 512 Ossau-Iraty cheese 407 pasta 480–2 peperonata 259 nutmeg 351 osso buco 110 dried pasta 498–500 ratatouille 231 nuts 314–23 Oštiepok cheese 406 filled pasta 501 romesco sauce 320 ostrich eggs 366 fresh pasta 500–501 Pequin chillies 339 O oxtail 158 pastirna 166 Pérail cheese 379 braised oxtail 158 pastrami 163 perch 56–7 oat bran 489 oyster mushrooms 275 pastries Périgord truffles 277 oat groats 489 oyster sauce 522 apple strudel 417 perilla 305 oats and oatmeal 488–9 oysters 80 boreks 375 periwinkles 75 oysters Rockefeller 80 pastry flour 494 persimmon 468 oatcakes 489 smoked oysters 92 Patagonian toothfish 29 pesto 301 ocean perch 31 pâté, smoked mackerel 42 petits pois 247 octopus 89 P Patterson apricots 430 petits pois à la française 247 offal 150–59 Patty Pan squash 231 petrale sole 66 Ogen melon 460 Pacific cod 19 pea shoots 247 pheasant 146–7 oils 508–14 Pacific halibut 67 peach palm fruit 438 physalis 449 Pacific oysters 80 peaches 432–3 Picholine olives 438 flavoured oils 514 Pacific salmon 60–61 dried peaches 476 pickled walnuts 323 nut oils 512 Padrón peppers 258 peach Melba 432 pickling cucumbers 238 olive oil 510–11 paella rice 496 peanuts 319 pickling vegetables 185 pearl barley 484 pickling vinegar 515 pearl onions 242 Picual varietal olive oil 511 pearled rice 495 Piel de Sap melon 460
INDEX | 535 pies pollack 20 preserving radicchio 197 cherry pie 436 pollock, Alaskan 20–21 fruit 414–15 radishes 209 pecan pie 322 vegetables 185 Ragstone cheese 391 pumpkin pie 236 salt pollock 97 rainbow trout 58 spanakopita 194 pomegranate 465 presunto 165 Rainier cherries 436 pomegranate syrup 520 prickly pears 426 raisins 476 pigeon 147 pomelo 454, 455 Primura potatoes 228 raita 239 pigeon peas 252 pomfret 37 Prince of Orange geranium 305 rambutan 470 pig’s liver 151 pompano 34–5 prosciutto ramen noodles 507 pig’s trotters 157 Pondhopper cheese 405 ramp 242 pike 56–7 Pont-l’Evêque cheese 395 melon and prosciutto 459 ramsons 242 poor cod 18 prosciutto cotto 161 rape, edible 191 pike quenelles 56 popcorn 487 prosciutto crudo 165 rapeseed oil 513 pilaf 496 poppy seeds 350 Provolone cheese 397 raspberries 444 pilchards 48 porcini 274 prunes 476 pimentón 335 pork 103, 104, 112–15 prune and Armagnac tart 477 peach Melba 432 pine mushrooms 276 puffed rice 497 rote grütze 444 pine nut oil 512 sausages 168 puffer fish 45 ratatouille 231 pine nuts 321 Swedish meatballs 114 Puglian varietal olive oil blend rau ram 306 Portobello mushrooms 270 ravioli 501 couscous with pine nuts and Portuguese varietal olive oil 511 ray 64 almonds 504 pumpkin 232 razor clams 76 blend 511 Reblochon de Savoie pesto 301 posole 487 pumpkin pie 236 pineapple 464–5 pot barley 484 pumpkin seed oil 513 cheese 394 pot marigolds 289 pumpkin seeds 325 red abalone 74 dried pineapple 477 pot marjoram 302 purées, fruit 413 Red Baron peaches 432 pineapple sage 309 pot-roasting poultry 127 purple beans 245 red cabbage 187 pinhead oatmeal 489 potatoes 222–8 purple sage 308 Pink Lady apples 420 purple sprouting broccoli 189 braised red cabbage 186 Pink Pearl apples 421 blitva and potatoes 195 purslane 201 red cherry bomb chillies 336 pink pepper 355 caldo verde 193 Puy lentils 253 Red Delicious apples 420 Pink Roseval potatoes 226 deep-fried cod and chips 19 Red Duke of York potatoes 225 Pinova apples 420 gratin dauphinois 227 Q red grouper 32 pinto beans 251 Irish stew 120 red gurnard 29 pistachio oil 512 potato gnocchi 224 quail 148 Red Haven peaches 432 pistachios 320 Spanish omelette 223 quail eggs 366 Red Icicle radishes 209 Pithiviers cheese 389 vichyssoise 243 queen scallops 78 red kidney beans 251 pizza dough 481 Pouligny Saint-Pierre queso blanco 376 red king crabs 87 plaice 65 Queso Majorero cheese 404 Red Kuri squash 232 plantain 467 cheese 380 quiche Lorraine 161 Red LaSoda potatoes 227 Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese poultry quinces 426 Red Leicester cheese 406 red lentils 253 406 buying 124 quince cheese 426 red mombins 469 plum tomatoes 268 cooking techniques 126–7 quinoa 485 red mullet 27 plums 428–9 livers 151 offal 157 R shallow-fried red mullet 27 plum jam 429 preparation 124–6 red oak lettuce 200 poaching stock 125 rabbit 144 red palm oil 512 storage 124 jointing 138 red peppercorns 352 fish 17 pout whiting 22 red “picking” lettuce 199 fruit 413 pozole 487 rabbit fish 30 red rice 496 poultry 126 prawns 84–5 raclette 397 red sea bream 25 Poblano chillies 337 prawn cocktail, Mexican-style 85 raclette cheese 397 Red Sensation pears 423 pointed cabbage 186 sesame prawn toasts 84 poires belle Hélène 423 preserved fish 92–9 polenta 483, 487 polished rice 495
536 | INDEX red snapper 36 Rocamadour cheese 380 salads béarnaise sauce 287 red spot bream 26 rock cod 32 insalata tricolore 376 butterscotch dessert sauce 373 red tilapia 53 rock lobster 82 salade Niçoise 40 caramel sauce 517 Red Williams pears 424 rock salt crystals 525 tabbouleh 491 cheese sauce 403 red wine vinegar 515 rocket 197 chimichurri 306 redcurrants 448 Rocotto chillies 336 salam leaves 359 crème anglaise 369 roe 91, 98–9 salame di Felino 177 duck in orange sauce 134 rote grütze 444 Rogue River Blue cheese 385 salame di Genoa 177 fish sauces 522 redfish 31 Rojo Brillante persimmon 468 salame di Milano 177 gravy 127 Reine des Reinettes apples 420 rolled oats 489 salami secchi 177 harissa 339 Reineta apples 421 rolled wheat 491 salchichón 179 horseradish cream 287 Reinette du Canada apples 420 Roma tomatoes 268 salmon 60–61 peppercorn sauce 353 resting meat 104 romaine lettuce 199 pesto 301 rhubarb 449 Romanesco 188 baked salmon with salsa verde romesco sauce 320 Ribier grapes 437 romesco sauce 320 and cucumber 61 sizzling sage butter 309 rice 480, 483, 495–7 Roncal cheese 407 soy sauces 522 Rooster potatoes 225 gravadlax 60 Thai dipping sauce 290 basic pilaf 496 roots and tubers 209–29 smoked salmon 93, 94 tomato sauce 266 kedgeree 95 Roquefort cheese 383 salsa verde 61 vegetable sauces 523 rice pudding 497 rose geranium 305 salsify 220 saucisse de Montbéliard 170 risotto balls 495 rose hips 446 salsify fritters 220 saucisse de Morteau 168 saffron rice 345 rosemary 307 salt 525 saucisse de Strasbourg 176 rice and soy miso 523 rosemary honey 521 gravadlax 60 saucisse de Toulouse 169 rice bran 497 rosemary oil 514 sea bass in a salt crust 33 saucisse sèche d’Auvergne 179 rice bran oil 513 roses 355 salt beef 162 sausages 159 rice bran vinegar 517 rosette de Lyon 179 salt cod 97 cooked and part-cooked rice flour 497 rote grütze 444 brandade de morue 97 rice germ 497 roughy 23 salt-cured meats 162–3 sausages 170–76 rice noodles 505 rowanberries 447 salt mackerel 97 dried and semi-dried rice paddy herb 291 Royal Blenheim apricots 430 salt pollock 97 rice sticks 505 runner beans 246 salted anchovies 96 sausages 177–8 rice vermicelli 505 rye 490 salted butter 373 fresh sausages 168–70 rice vinegar 516–17 rye crispbreads 490 salted eggs 367 sautéing vegetables 184 Rich Lady peaches 432 rye flour 490 salted fish 96–7 saveloys 171 ricotta 377 sambal ulek paste 524 savory 311 ridge cucumbers 238 S samphire 278 Savoy cabbage 187 rigatoni 500 San Giovanni hazelnuts 320 Sbrinz cheese 407 ripening fruit 412 safflower 340 San Joaquin Gold cheese 406 scabbard fish 44–5 risotto balls 495 safflower oil 513 San Marzano tomatoes 268 scad 34–5 river cobbler 52–3 saffron 345 San Simón da Costa cheese 408 scaling fish 15 roasting sand sole 69 scallops 78 beef 109 saffron rice 345 sand whiting 21 dried scallops 97 chicken 131 saffron milk caps 275 sansho 359 school whiting 21 fish 16 sage 308–9 Santa Rosa plums 428 scorzonera 220 lamb 104, 119 São Jorge cheese 406 Scotch bonnet chillies 337 mutton 119 sizzling sage butter 309 sapodilla 462–3 sea bass 33 nuts and seeds 317 St George’s mushrooms 271 sardines 48 sea bass in a salt crust 33 pork 104, 115 Saint-Marcellin cheese 380 sassafras 311 sea bream en papilotte 25 poultry 126 Saint-Nectaire cheese 395 satsumas 451 sea buckthorn berries 446 veal 111 saithe 19 sauces sea cucumbers 90 vegetables 185 salad burnet 311 aïoli 255 sea lettuce 279 venison 141 apple sauce 418 sea salt 525 barbecue sauce 522
INDEX | 537 sea trout 59 skipjack tuna 41 cullen skink 94 star fruit 471 sea urchins 90–91 skyr 372 gazpacho 269 steaming sea vegetables 278–9 slinzega 167 lobster bisque 82 seafood see fish and seafood slipper lobsters 84 mushroom soup 275 fish 17 seasons, game 139 sloes 429 New England clam chowder 77 shellfish 73 Seckel pears 422 Smithfield ham 161 sweetcorn chowder 256–7 vegetables 185 seed oils 513 smoked cod’s roe 99 Tuscan bean soup 252 Stella cherries 436 seeds 316–17, 324–5 vichyssoise 243 stewing taramasalata 99 watercress soup 201 beef 109 sprouted seeds 254 smoked duck 163 soured cream 370 chicken 131 sel épicé 525 smoked eel 92 soursop 473 lamb and mutton 119 self-raising flour 494 smoked fish 92–5 South African olive meat 105 Serrano chillies 336 smoked goose 163 pork 115 sesame oil 513 smoked haddock 94–5 oil blend 511 poultry 127 sesame seeds 325 soy oil 513 veal 111 cullen skink 94 soy sauces 522 venison 141 sesame prawn toasts 84 kedgeree 95 soya beans 246, 251 sticky rice 496 Sevruga caviar 98 smoked halibut 95 soya beansprouts 254 Stilton cheese 384 shad 48 smoked mackerel 93 spaghetti 498 Stinking Bishop cheese 396 shallots 242–3 smoked mackerel pâté 42 stir-frying vegetables 184 Shanxi aged sorghum smoked mussels 92 spaghetti tartufi 277 stock smoked oysters 92 spaghetti marrow 232 meat 105 vinegar 516 smoked salmon 93, 94 spanakopita 194 poultry 125 Sharon fruit 468 smoked sea salt 525 Spanish dried red peppers 259 stomach (tripe) 153 Sharpham cheese 390 smoked sprats 92 Spanish omelette 223 stone fruits 428–39 Sharwill avocados 264 smoked streaky bacon 160 Spanish paprika 335 storage sheep’s milk 369 smoked trout 93 Spanish Pardina lentils 253 dairy and eggs 364 sheep’s yogurt 372 snails 91 spatchcocking birds 125 fish and seafood 14 shellfish 72–87 snails in garlic butter 91 spearmint 296 fruit 412 sherry vinegar 515 snake mackerel 44 speck 164 herbs 282 shiitake mushrooms 270 snap beans 244 spelt 491 meat 102 Shinseiki Asian pears 425 snapper 36 spice blends 329 nuts and seeds 316 shoots and stems 204–8 Vietnamese crispy fish 37 spices 326–61 pasta and noodles 480 short grain rice 495 snipe 148 spinach 194 poultry 124 shortbread 495 Snow Pearl nectarines 433 shellfish 72 shrimp paste 524 soba noodles 507 haddock mornay 20 vegetables 182 shrimps 84–5 sockeye 61 spanakopita 194 strained yogurt 372 soft white cheeses 388–91 spiny lobster 82 straw mushrooms 274 dried shrimps 97 soldier beans 250 spleen (melt) 156 strawberries 444–5 Shropshire Blue cheese 384 sole 65–9 split peas 253 dried strawberries 476 Siberian sturgeon 54–5 sole meunière 69 split red lentils 253 pannacotta with strawberry Sichuan pepper 359 somen noodles 507 sprats 48 Sichuan rice bran vinegar 517 sopressata 179 smoked sprats 92 purée 370 Sicilian varietal olive sorbet, lemon 453 spring onions 241 rote grütze 444 sorghum vinegar 516 sprouted beans and seeds 254 strawberry jam 444 oil blend 511 sorrel 307 sprue asparagus 208 strawberry semifreddo 445 signal crayfish 81 Sorrento walnuts 323 squash 230–39 streaky bacon 160 silver pomfret 37 soufflé, cheese 399 squid 88 Striata d’Italia squash 231 silver scabbard 45 soups caldereta Asturiana 79 striped beetroot 215 skate 64 borscht 215 fried calamari 88 strong flour 494 caldo verde 193 squirrel 145 strudel, apple 417 skate with beurre noir caraway soup 340 star anise 348 stuffed green olives 438 and capers 64 star anise biscuits 348 skin 158 scoring pork skin 103 skinning fish 15
538 | INDEX stuffing poultry 124–5 Taggiasca olives 438 toasting nuts and seeds 317 Tuscan varietal olive Stupice tomatoes 265 Taggiasca varietal olive oil 510 tomatillo 269 oil blend 511 sturgeon 54–5 tagliatelle 499, 501 tomato ketchup 523 Sugar Baby watermelon 461 tagliolini 498 tusk 21 sugar syrups 520 tahini paste 524 barbecue sauce 522 twaite shad 48 sugars 517 Tahiti limes 454 tomato purée 524 tails 158 tomatoes 265–9 U caramel sauce 517 Taleggio cheese 396 dulce de leche 369 tamari soy sauce 522 gazpacho 269 udon noodles 506 sugarsnap peas 247 tamarillo 472 insalata tricolore 376 udon rice noodles 505 sujuk 179 tamarind 357 lasagne al forno 501 Ugli™ 455 sumac 354 tamarind paste 524 tabbouleh 491 UHT milk 368 summer sausage 179 Tanche olives 438 tomato sauce 266 unsalted butter 373 summer savory 311 tapenade 438 Tomme de Savoie cheese 394 sunflower oil 513 taramasalata 99 Tonda Gentile Romana V sunflower seeds 324 taro 213 Sungold tomatoes 266 tarragon 287 hazelnuts 320 Valencia oranges 450 surf clams 76 tarragon oil 514 Tonda Iblea olive oil 511 Vallée des Baux varietal olive oil surgeon fish 30–31 tarragon vinegar 515 Tondo di Nizza squash 231 Sussex Slipcote cheese 377 tarts tongue 154 blend 511 Swaledale goat cheese 406 vanilla 358 swede 210 apricot and almond tart 430 cured tongue 163 Swedish meatballs 114 prune and Armagnac tart 477 toothfish 29 vanilla ice cream 358 sweet basil 300 quiche Lorraine 161 Torpedo onions 241 veal 110–11 sweet cicely 299 tarte Tatin 419 Torta de Cañarejal cheese 397 sweet frying peppers 259 tea, Moroccan mint 297 Torta Extremeñas cheese 392 osso buco 110 sweet marjoram 302 teal 149 tortellini 501 vegetable marrows 237 sweet melon 458–60 Teewurst 176 treacle 520 vegetable pastes 524 sweet potatoes 229 téliszalámi 179 tree onions 242 vegetable sauces 523 sweet potato crisps 229 Tetilla cheese 396 trevally 35 vegetables 180–279 sweet soy sauce 522 Thai basil 301 tripe (stomach) 153 sweetbreads 156 Thai chillies 337 trofie 500 Asian leafy greens 190–92 sweetcorn 256–7 Thai crab cakes 86 tropical fruit 464–71 brassicas 186–9 sweetcorn chowder 256–7 Thai dipping sauce 290 trotters 157 buying 182 Swiss chard 195 Thai fish (nam pla) sauce 522 trout 58–9 cooking techniques 184–5 blitva and potatoes 195 Thai green aubergines 260 fresh beans 244–6 Swiss cheese fondue 405 Thai jasmine rice 496 smoked trout 93 fruiting vegetables 258–69 swordfish 46–7 Thai lemon basil 301 trout with almonds 59 leaves and leafy greens chargrilled swordfish 46 Thai long green aubergines 260 truffle oil 514 smoked swordfish 94 Thai pea aubergines 261 truffles 277 192–201 Syrian oregano 303 Thoory dates 439 spaghetti tartufi 277 mushrooms and fungi 270–77 syrups thornback ray 64 tuna 40–41 pods 244–54 fruit syrups 520 thousand year eggs 367 dried tuna loin 96 preparation 183 sugar syrups 520 thyme 312–13 salade Niçoise 40 preserving 185 manaqish 312 Tupi cheese 376 roots and tubers 209–29 T thyme honey 521 turbot 68–9 sea vegetables 278–9 thymus sweetbreads 156 turkey 132–3 shoots and stems 204–8 Tabasco sauce 523 tiger nuts 322 mole poblana 133 squash 230–39 tabbouleh 491 tiger prawns 85 Turkish oregano 303 storage 182 table salt 525 tilapia 52–3 Turk’s Turban squash 232 venison 140–41 Tipo 00 flour 494 turmeric 455 cured venison 163 turnip tops 212 sausages 169 turnips 212 smoked venison 163 turtle beans 253 viltgryta 140 Tuscan bean soup 252
INDEX | 539 verjuice 514 with walnuts 421 white long grain rice 496 wolf-fish 30–31 vermicelli 498 wasabi 291 white mustard seeds 334 Wonderful pomegranate 465 water chestnuts 221 white pepper 353 woodcock 148 Indian vermicelli 506 water spinach 190 white pudding 171 woodruff 293 rice vermicelli 505 watercress 201 white sticky rice 496 Woodside Edith cheese 391 vichyssoise 243 white sweetcorn 256 Worcestershire sauce 522 Victoria plums 428 watercress soup 201 white truffle oil 514 Vietnamese balm 291 watermelon 460–61 white truffles 277 XYZ Vietnamese crispy fish 37 wattle 331 white wine vinegar 515 viltgryta 140 waxy potatoes 223 whitecurrants 448 XO sauce 522 vinaigrette 511 Welsh rarebit 407 whiting 21, 22 yams 213 mustard vinaigrette 334 Wensleydale cheese 407 wholemeal bread 482 yard-long beans 246 vincotto 520 Wensleydale cheese with wholemeal flour 494 Yarg Cornish cheese 409 vinegars 515–16 widgeon 149 yellow bean sauce 523 balsamic vinegars 516 cranberries 408 wild boar 142 yellow beetroot 215 flavoured wine vinegars 515 Westphalian ham 165 wild boar sausages 169 yellow chilli powder 339 grain vinegars 516–17 “wet” walnuts 323 wild rice 495 yellow fin sea bream 24 Violetta di Chioggia wheat 490–95 wild strawberries 445 Yellow Pear tomatoes 266 Williams’ Bon Chrétien yellow wax beans 245 artichokes 203 flatbread 494 yellowfin tuna 41 Virginia ham 162 wheat and soy miso 523 pears 424 yellowtail snapper 36 Vitelotte Noire potatoes 228 wheat bran 494 Wiltshire cure bacon 160 ymer 369 Vivaldi potatoes 225 wheat couscous 504 Winchester Super yogurt 364, 372 wheat grass 254 W wheat noodles 506 Aged Gouda cheese 407 lassi 372 wheatgerm 494 wine vinegars 515 raita 239 Wabash Cannonball cheese 380 whelks 75 winged beans 245 York ham 162 wahoo 42 whipping cream 365, 370 winter melon 233 Yukon Gold potatoes 228 wakame 278 whisking egg whites 365 winter radishes 209 za’atar 313 walleye 56–7 white beans winter savory 311 zander 56–7 walnut oil 512 winter squash 232–7 zedoary 455 walnuts 323 fabada 171 wishbone, removing from Zespri Gold kiwi fruit 462 white bunching onions 241 zucchini 230 pickled walnuts 323 white cabbage 186 poultry 124 spiced baked apples white figs 427 witch 66 white flat beans 246 witloof chicory 196 White Icicle radishes 209
540 | RECIPE INDEX RECIPE INDEX A caraway soup 340 French onion soup 240 carrot cake 219 fried calamari 88 abalone with oyster sauce 74 chargrilled asparagus with aioli 255 G almond macaroons 318 hollandaise 208 apple sauce 418 chargrilled swordfish 46 gazpacho 269 apple strudel 417 chat masala 349 gefilte fish 54 apricot and almond tart 430 châteaubriand with béarnaise 108 ginger cake 361 cheese sauce 403 gratin dauphinois 227 B cheese soufflé 399 gravadlax 60 cheese straws 402 gravy 127 baba ganoush 261 cherry pie 436 grilled halibut with baked cardoons with cheese 204 chicken Kiev 130 baked figs with cinnamon and honey 427 chimichurri 306 beurre blanc 67 baked salmon with salsa verde and Chinese stir-fried broccoli 189 guacamole 265 cinnamon rolls 341 cucumber 61 cornbread 487 H banana bread 467 couscous with pine nuts and almonds 504 barbecue sauce 522 cranberry jelly 441 haddock mornay 20 basic pilaf 496 crème anglaise 369 harissa 339 béarnaise sauce 287 crème brûlée 370 Hollandaise sauce 373 beurre blanc 372 crème pâtissière 368 honey-roast ham 162 blinis 486 cullen skink 94 honeycomb 520 blitva and potatoes 195 horseradish cream 287 blue cheese dressing 385 DE hummus 250 blueberry muffins 440 boreks 375 deep-fried catfish 53 IJK borscht 215 deep-fried cod and chips 19 braised oxtail 158 dressed crab 87 insalata tricolore 376 braised red cabbage 186 duck confit 135 Irish stew 120 brandade de morue 97 duck in orange sauce 134 jugged hare 145 broad bean dip 245 dulce de leche 369 kedgeree 95 buckwheat galettes 486 eggs Benedict 366 butterscotch dessert sauce 373 L F C lamb koftas 117 fabada 171 lasagne al forno 501 caldereta Asturiana 79 falafel 251 lassi 372 caldo verde 193 fegato alla Veneziana 151 lavender ice cream 294 Camembert en boîte 389 fennel gratin 205 lemon sorbet 453 caper butter 335 flatbread 494 caramel sauce 517 folded omelette 367
RECIPE INDEX | 541 lobster bisque 82 pike quenelles 56 spiced cashews 319 lobster thermidor 83 plum jam 429 spiced kumquats 455 poires belle Hélène 423 star anise biscuits 348 MN potato gnocchi 224 steamed artichokes 202 prune and Armagnac tart 477 strawberry jam 444 macaroni cheese 499 pumpkin pie 236 strawberry semifreddo 445 manaqish 312 stuffed dates 439 mango chutney 463 QR stuffed roast goose 136 marinated anchovies 47 Swedish meatballs 114 marmalade 451 quiche Lorraine 161 sweet potato crisps 229 melon and prosciutto 459 quince cheese 426 sweetcorn chowder 256 Mexican-style prawn cocktail 85 raclette 397 Swiss cheese fondue 405 mole poblana 133 raita 239 monkfish wrapped in prosciutto 39 ratatouille 231 T Moroccan mint tea 297 rice pudding 497 moules marinières 79 risotto balls 495 tabbouleh 491 moussaka 118 romesco sauce 320 tapenade 438 mushroom soup 275 rote grütze 444 taramasalata 99 mustard vinaigrette 334 rye crispbreads 490 tarte Tatin 419 New England clam chowder 77 Thai crab cakes 86 S Thai dipping sauce 290 O tomato sauce 266 saffron rice 345 trout with almonds 59 oatcakes 489 salade Niçoise 40 Tuscan bean soup 252 onion bhajis 241 salsify fritters 220 osso buco 110 sea bass in a salt crust 33 V oysters Rockefeller 80 sea bream en papilotte 25 sesame prawn toasts 84 vanilla ice cream 358 P shallow-fried red mullet 27 vichyssoise 243 shortbread 495 Vietnamese crispy fish 37 pannacotta with sizzling sage butter 309 viltgryta 140 strawberry purée 370 skate with beurre noir vinaigrette 511 peach Melba 432 and capers 64 W pears in red wine 424 smoked mackerel pâté 42 pecan pie 322 snails in garlic butter 91 watercress soup 201 peperonata 259 sole meunière 69 Welsh rarebit 407 peppercorn sauce 353 spaghetti tartufi 277 wholemeal bread 482 pesto 301 spanakopita 194 petits pois à la française 247 Spanish omelette 223 pickled walnuts 323 spiced baked apples with walnuts 421
542 THANK YOU Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the TAJ STORES THE SPICE SHOP following suppliers who kindly helped us with 112 Brick Lane, 1 Blenheim Crescent, sourcing ingredients for the making of this book: London E1 6RL London W11 2EE 020 7247 3844 0207 221 4448 FISH www.tajstores.co.uk www.thespiceshop.co.uk THE FISH SOCIETY GERMAN DELI DAIRY Unit 1, Coopers Place, 3 Park Street, Wormley, Surrey GU8 5TG London SE1 9AB SCANDINAVIAN KITCHEN 01428 687768 020 7250 1322/020 7703 6674 Great Titchfield Street, www.thefishsociety.co.uk www.germandeli.co.uk London W1W 7PP 020 7580 7161 BILLINGSGATE MARKET DAYLESFORD ORGANIC www.scandinaviankitchen.co.uk Billingsgate Seafood Training School, 44b Pimlico Road, Office 30 Billingsgate Market, London SW1W 8LP GALLERIA RESTAURANT Trafalgar Way, 020 7881 8060 17 New Cavendish St, London E14 5ST www.daylesfordorganic.com London W1G 9UA 020 7517 3548 020 7224 1692 www.billingsgate-market.org.uk DRINGS BUTCHERS www.galleriarestaurant.co.uk 22 Royal Hill, London SE10 8RT MEAT 020 8858 4032 TRAY GOURMET 240 Fulham Road, F. DRURY AND SONS LTD HARRODS Chelsea, The Abattoir, 87–135 Brompton Road, London SW10 9NA Tockenham, London SW1X 7XL 0207 352 7676 Wootton Bassett, 0207 730 1234 www.traygourmet.com Wiltshire SN4 7PF www.harrods.com 01793 840 841 LA FROMAGERIE www.fdruryandsons.co.uk VEGETABLES, HERBS 2–6 Moxon Street, FRUITS, AND SPICES Marylebone, M. MOEN & SONS London W1U 4EW 24 The Pavement, SKY SPROUTS 020 7935 0341 Clapham Common, Gosworthy Cottage, www.lafromagerie.co.uk London SW4 OJA Higher Plymouth Road, 020 7622 1624 Totnes, Devon GASTRONOMICA www.moen.co.uk 01364 72404, 45 Tachbrook Street, www.skysprouts.com London SW1V 2LZ RAMSAY OF CARLUKE 0207 233 6656 22 Mount Stewart Street, PANZERS DELICATESSEN www.gastronomica.myzen.co.uk Carluke, 13–19 Circus Road, Scotland ML8 5ED St Johns Wood, London NW8 6PB 01555 772277 020 7722 1496 www.ramsayofcarluke.co.uk www.panzers.co.uk
543 OILS WILD WOOD GROVES MISCELLANEOUS www.wildwoodgroves.com VALLECOPA BIEN MANGER 1 Southside Farm Cottages, ODYSEA 04 66 42 90 80 Warkworth, Northumberland NE65 OYD 020 7608 1841 www.bienmanger.com 07748 562760 www.odysea.com www.vallecoppa.com HARVEY NICHOLS BELLA PUGLIA 109–125 Knightsbridge, MEDITERRANEAN DIRECT www.bellapuglia.co.uk London SW1X 7RJ 66 Joseph Wilson Business Park, 0845 604 1888 Whitstable, Kent CT5 3PS EQUAL EXCHANGE www.harveynichols.com www.mediterraneandirect.co.uk 122 Commercial Street, Edinburgh EH6 6JA OCADO GARDA OLIVE OIL 00 44 131 554 59 0845 399 1122 020 8673 4439 www.equalexchange.co.uk www.ocado.com www.gardaoliveoil.com OLIVES ET AL GOODNESS DIRECT THE LITTLE ITALIAN SHOP North Dorset Business Park, South March, Daventry, 33 Bell Street, Sturminster Newton, Northants NN11 4PH St Andrews, Dorset DT10 2GA 0871 871 6611 Fife KY16 9UR 01258 474300 www.goodnessdirect.com 01334 478 396 www.olivesetal.co.uk www.thelittleitalianshop.co.uk JAPAN CENTRE THE ITALIAN OLIVE OIL 020 3405 1151 OIL AND MORE COMPANY www.japancentre.com Nutrition Gateway Ltd, Park Farm, PO Box 34, Wrexham LL14 5YG Hever Lane, CASA MEXICO 01691 772 407 Hever, 1 Winkley Street, www.oilandmore.co.uk Kent TN8 7ET Bethnal Green, 01342 850992 London E2 6PY KING’S FINE FOOD www.oliveoil4u.co.uk www.casamexico.co.uk Unit 2, Mill Farm Business Park, Hounslow, Middlesex TW4 5PY THE FRESH OLIVE GREEN LIFE DIRECT 020 8894 1111 COMPANY 11 The Paddocks, www.kingsfinefood.co.uk 7 Barretts Green Road, Totnes Industrial Park, London NW10 7AE Burke Road, OLLY OILS 020 8838 1912 Devon TD9 5XT Shropshire Mill, www.fresholive.com 01803 868733 Eaton-upon-Tern, www.greenlife.co.uk Shropshire TF9 2BX 0845 680 3579 BUY WHOLEFOODS ONLINE www.ollyoils.com 0800 0431 455 www.buywholefoodsonline.co.uk
544 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS DORLING KINDERSLEY WOULD LIKE TO THANK PICTURE CREDITS RECIPE WRITING HEATHER WHINNEY AND CAROLYN HUMPHRIES The publisher would like to thank the following for their kind permission Ingredients Sourcing Betsey Clendenen, Caroline Allis to reproduce their photographs: Recipe Testing Katy Greenwood, Lisa Harrison Home Economist Tina Asher (Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; l-left; r-right; t-top) Art Direction Kat Mead Photography Assistance Alastair King 8-9 Photolibrary: John Warburton-Lee Photography. 12-13 Photolibrary: Fresh Additional Editorial Assistance Salima Hirani Food Images / Maximilian Stock Ltd. 28-29 Getty Images: Rick Price (b). 34 Proofreading Helen Armitage Getty Images: MIXA (cl). 34-35 iStockphoto.com: grandriver (b). 41 fotolia: Le Indexing Hilary Bird Do (tr). 43 Alamy Images: Art of Food (cra); Image Source (cb). Getty Images: Koki Iino (cla). 44-45 Photolibrary: Tsuneo Nakamura (t). 45-47 Alamy Images: SPECIAL THANKS ALSO GO TO Bon Appetit (b). 50 Alamy Images: Foodcollection.com (cl). 53 Dreamstime. Everyone at Billingsgate Seafood Training School com: Foodmaniac (t). 56-57 fotolia: Roman Ponomarev (c). 57 Dreamstime. Eduard Soley, Manel Bosh, Roqueta Fish SA, com: Deepcameo (crb). 62-63 Alamy Images: Bon Appetit (r). 74 fotolia: Reika Loredana Della Fonte, Elisa Vecchia, Marcello Alinari (t). 86-87 Dreamstime.com: Mpemberton (t). 97 iStockphoto.com: WEKWEK Alistair Blair from the Fish Society (tl). 98 Getty Images: Jonathan Kantor Studio (bl). 100-101 Getty Images: Image Gary and Richard from Moens butchers Source. 122-123 Getty Images: Image Source. 172 www.britishfinefoods.com, John Fletcher for help with the Meat chapter telephone: 01342 811773: (bl). 173 foodanddrinkphotos: Tim Hill (c). 180-181 Ryan Farr for his butchery skills Corbis: AgStock Images. 192 iStockphoto.com: vtupinamba (br). Photolibrary: Brett Kellett from Sky Sprouts Foodcollection.com (bl); Fotosearch Value (tr); MIXA Co Ltd (tl). 199 Alamy John and Kathy from Panzers Greengrocers Images: Rob Walls (bl). 204 Photolibrary: Maximilian Stock Ltd (t). 206-207 Oliver Driscoll from Vallecopa Oils Getty Images: Beverly Logan. 208 iStockphoto.com: Suzifoo (tr). 216-217 Barry Cotgrave from Mediterranean Direct Corbis: Christina Simons. 222 Getty Images: Brian Summers. 231 Alamy Images: Jeffery Benson from Garda Olive Oil Teubner Foodfoto (tl). Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co: (c). 234-235 Getty Raffaele from The Little Italian Shop Images: Paul Poplis. 238 Alamy Images: CuboImages srl (br). 241 Photolibrary: Colin Boag from Bella Puglia Oils Maximilian Stock Ltd (bl). 242-243 iStockphoto.com: dirkr (c). 245 Science Jo Busck from Equal Exchange Photo Library: Ed Young / AGStockUSA (tl). 247 fotolia: Maceo (br). 248-249 Tamsyn Goodager from Olives et al Corbis: Owen Franken. 250 Purcell Mountain Farms: (bl). 253 Purcell Mountain Robert from The Italian Olive Oil Company Farms: (tr). 256 fotolia: Shariff Che’Lah (tl). 257 Getty Images: Visual Cuisines Laurance Lesbats from The Fresh Olive Company (bl). 260 fotolia: peter bauwens (cl). 264-265 fotolia: Elena Schweitzer (bc). Andrew Ramsay from Ramsay of Carluke 272-273 Corbis: Hein van den Heuvel. 276 Alamy Images: Arco Images GmbH Jamal from Taj Stores (b). Getty Images: Doable / A.collection (cr). 280-281 Corbis: Matilda Lindeblad Jana from German Deli / Johnér Images. 286 Alamy Images: amana images inc (br). 288 fotolia: ott (tl). Michael and Galia from Daylesford Organics 295 Dreamstime.com: Paylessimages (tr). 303 Alamy Images: Westend61 (br). John from Drings Butchers 310 Corbis: Photolibrary. 322 fotolia: Shariff Che’Lah (br). Photolibrary: Kidd Nicolas from Très Gourmet Geoff (bl). 326-327 Getty Images: Michael Rosenfeld. 354-355 fotolia: Bell (b). Bronte Blomhoj from Scandinavian Kitchen 371 Corbis: Sudres / photocuisine. 386-387 Photolibrary: John Warburton-Lee Ali Bidarbakht from Galleria Restaurant Photography. 416 Alamy Images: VG Stock (br); WILDLIFE GmbH (tr). 417 The Patricia Michelson from La Fromagerie National Fruit Collection at Brogdale: (br). 420 Alamy Images: Bon Appetit (tl). Susan from The Spice Shop 424 Photolibrary: Riou Riou (crb). 433 Scope: J Guillard (tl). 436 fotolia: Unclesam (cr). 438 Alamy Images: Bon Appetit (tc). fotolia: Alexander Bedoya (br). 440 Dreamstime.com: Ksenia Krylova (br). 444 Photolibrary: Sue Atkinson / Fresh Food Images (b). 447 fotolia: sil (cl). 450 Alamy Images: Keith Leighton (tl). 453 Alamy Images: Nigel Cattlin (cr). 454 StockFood.com: Peter Rees (clb). 454-455 Getty Images: Image Source (tc). 462 Photolibrary: Dinodia Dinodia (bl). 469 Dreamstime.com: Vinicius Tupinamba (b). iStockphoto.com: microgen (tl). 473 Achacha Fruit Group: (br). Alamy Images: Flavio Coelho (bl). 478-479 Getty Images: Martin Harvey. 492-493 Corbis: Lars Ternblad / Johnér Images. 508-509 Getty Images: Franck Bichon All other images © Dorling Kindersley For further information see: www.dkimages.com
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