Coffee Obsession

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 99 ECUADOR S O U T H Washed Robusta MANABÍ AMERICA While naturally processed beans This is the largest Varied ecosystems result in coffees still dominate, coffee-growing area, that range in flavor, but most display washed Robustas producing 50 percent of classic South American qualities. are on the increase. Ecuador’s Arabica, both washed and natural. Coffee in this dry, coastal area grows at modest altitudes of 1,000–2,300ft (300– These qualities include a medium body, ESMERALDAS CARCHI 700m) above sea level. structured acidity, and pleasant sweetness. Esmeraldas COLOMBIA The Ecuador coffee industry faces challenges—the lack of credit facilities, IMBABURA low yields, and high labor costs are A QUITO SUCUMBÍOS detrimental to quality. The overall N PICHINCHA area under cultivation has halved D E since 1985. It produces Robusta NAPO and low-quality Arabica. Most PERU S coffee is shade-grown and MANABÍ COTOPAXI organic, and most smallholdings Portoviejo have their own wet mills. Still, ECUADOR ORELLANA the potential for quality is LOS BOLIVAR TUNGURAHUA PASTAZA RÍOS Riobamba present in the highest altitudes, GUAYAS CHIMBORAZO and in addition to Typica and Bourbon varieties, plantings Guayaquil of Caturra, Catuai, Pacas, CAÑAR MORONA and Sarchimor are taking place. SANTIAGO AZUAY ECUADORIAN COFFEE EL ORO Washed Typica Most coffee trees are replaced PERCENTAGE LOJA ZAMORA after 10–15 years, but many trees in OF WORLD CHINCHIPE Ecuador are more than 40 years old. 0.5%MARKET: Loja ZAMORA CHINCHIPE MAIN TYPES: This southeastern region benefits from altitudes of 3,280–6,000ft (1,000– 60% ARABICA 1,800m) above sea level, and produces mainly washed Arabicas that can be 40% ROBUSTA bright and sweet with hints of berries. PROCESSES: HARVEST: LOJA AND EL ORO KEY WASHED AND MAY– Old growing regions in the NOTABLE COFFEE- NATURAL SEPTEMBER south, ranging from 1,640– PRODUCING REGIONS 6,000ft (500–1,800m) above sea WORLD RANKING level, produce 20 percent of AREA OF PRODUCTION Ecuador’s Arabica. Being 19thAS A PRODUCER: a dry area, 90 percent of 0 km 100 it is naturally processed. 0 miles 100

100 DECAFFEINATED COFFEE DECAFFEINATED COFFEE Many myths surround caffeinated and decaffeinated coffee, their health benefits, and health risks. For those who love and appreciate the flavor of good coffee, but would like to reduce their caffeine intake, there are options. IS CAFFEINE BAD FOR YOU? Caffeine, a purine alkaloid, is an odorless, slightly your metabolism and give you a feeling of reduced bitter compound, which in pure form is an fatigue, but it can also increase nervousness. extremely toxic white powder. In natural, brewed- Depending on your gender, weight, genetic coffee form, caffeine is a common stimulant that, heritage, and medical history, caffeine can be a once ingested, rapidly affects the central nervous positive pick-me-up or cause levels of discomfort, system and equally rapidly leaves the body. Its so it is important to have an awareness of how it effects vary from person to person. It can increase makes you feel and the affect on your health. HOW DO THE BEANS COMPARE? Green decaf beans are darker green or brown in color. The darker hue is also apparent, but less noticeable, when they have been roasted. Due to weakened cell structure, you may see a sheen of oil on the surface of a light-roasted decaf. It may also appear smoother or more even in color. COFFEE BEANS DECAFFEINATED COFFEE BEANS Unroasted Guatemala Bourbon Unroasted Mountain Water decaf, Guatemala Bourbon Roasted Roasted Guatemala Mountain Water Bourbon decaf, Guatemala Bourbon

DECAFFEINATED COFFEE 101 THE TRUTH ABOUT DECAF Decaffeinated coffee is readily available in most darkly roasted to cover up the unpleasant flavors. stores and cafes, and generally has 90–99 percent If you find a supplier that decaffeinates fresh, of the caffeine removed, reducing the level down good-quality green coffee beans and roasts them to well below that of a cup of black tea, and to well, the flavor will not be compromised. You about the same as a mug of hot chocolate. may not be able to tell the difference between a regular and a decaf and can enjoy it without Sadly, most decaffeinated coffee is made from any ill effect. old or poor-quality green beans, and often comes THE SCIENCE BIT There are different methods of decaffeination— CO2 PROCESS some introduce solvents and others rely Liquid CO is used at low temperatures and on more natural processes. Look out for this information on decaf coffee bean labels. 2 SOLVENTS PROCESS pressure to extract the caffeine from the cells The beans are steamed or soaked in hot water of the bean. This disrupts very little of the to open up the cell structure. Ethyl acetate compounds that affect the flavor of the coffee. and methylene chloride are then used to rinse The caffeine is filtered or evaporated from the the caffeine out of the beans or from the water CO2, and the liquid is reused to further soak more in which they were soaked. These solvents are caffeine out of the beans. Preserving the natural not highly selective and can sometimes remove flavors of the beans, this process is chemical-free, positive attributes from the coffee, and the gentle, and considered organic. process can damage the structure of the bean causing challenges in storing and roasting. SWISS WATER PROCESS CO2 PROCESS The beans are soaked in water to open up the DECAF BEANS cell structure. A water-based green coffee extract, or water saturated with green coffee compounds, This process leaves beans is used to wash the caffeine out. The extract is then filtered through carbon to remove the smooth and glossy with caffeine and reused to extract more caffeine until the desired level is reached. Chemical-free, a deep green color. this process is gentle on the bean and leaves much of its natural flavor intact. The Mountain Water method is nearly identical in process, but is produced in Mexico using water from the Pico de Orizaba mountain.

102 COFFEES OF THE WORLD GUATEMALA Guatemalan coffees offer some exceptionally varied regional flavor profiles—ranging from sweet with cocoa and toffee notes, to herbal, citrus, or floral coffees that display a crisp acidity. There are many microclimates hectares) is dedicated to growing HILLSIDE PLANTATION here—from the mountain ranges to coffee varieties, almost all of which The lush hillsides of high-altitude the plains—and these, with the varied are washed Arabica, such as Bourbon Guatemalan coffee regions are rainfall patterns and rich soils, create and Caturra. A small amount of often laced with clouds. coffee with a huge range of flavors. Robusta grows at lower altitudes in the southwest. There are nearly Coffee grows in nearly all of the 100,000 producers, most of whom departments, and the Guatemalan have small farms of 5–7 acres (2–3 National Coffee Association has hectares) each. Most farms deliver identified eight main regions that their coffee cherries to a wet mill offer distinct profiles. Within these for processing (see pp20–23), but regions there are great variations it is increasingly common for in aroma and flavor, influenced by producers to have their own small varieties and local microclimates. beneficios (processing plants). Around 670,000 acres (270,000 GUATEMALAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PROCESSES: PERCENTAGE OF WORLD 2.5% WASHED, SMALLMARKET: AROUND E MAIN TYPES: AMOUNTS OF NATURAL 98% ARABICA HARVEST: BOURBON, CATURRA, CATUAI, LOCAL NOVEMBER–TYPICA, MARAGOGIPE, PACHE “Injerto reina” is a technique 2% ROBUSTA APRIL that grafts the stem of an WORLD RANKING Arabica tree onto the root of a 10th LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: PRODUCER IN THE WORLD Robusta tree. This helps the Arabica tree to become disease-resistant without losing TE C its flavor. U HNI Q

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 103 CENTRAL Washed Bourbon AMERICA The Bourbon variety is thought to have been Lacandón Mountain PETÉN BELIZE the first coffee variety produced in Guatemala. HUEHUETENANGO s Flores COBÁN The non-volcanic highlands Washed Red Catuai M of Huehue are at the highest Catuai trees are popular in aya Mountains Covered by rainforest, altitude in Guatemala, with little Guatemala; they are compact, the altitude in Cobán is rainfall and a late harvest season. resilient, and high yielding. 4,260–4,590ft (1,300– The coffee has a floral and fruity 1,400m) above sea level, flavor and is often considered but temperatures are low the best and most complex that and rainfall and humidity Guatemala can offer. high. The resulting coffee is heavy and balanced, MEXICO fruity, and sometimes spicy. Gulf of Honduras GUATEMALA HUEHUETENANGO Puerto Barrios IZABAL QUICHÉ ALTA VERAPAZ Lake Izabal COBÁN Chuacús Mountains BAJA Las Minas Mountains VERAPAZ TOTONICAPÁN ZACAPA S iSAN eMARCOS r r a M a d r eQ EL PROGRESO EZALTENANAGTOI Quezaltenango SOLOLÁ CHIMA L TENANGO GUATEMALA Washed Caturra PÉQUEZ Local farms here take care to U TLÁN Lake ACATENANGO CITY CHIQUIMULA separate varieties to highlight GUATEMALA individual flavor characteristics. Atitlán JALAPA KEY SACATE ANTIGUA FRAIJUNES NUEVO ORIENTE RETALHULEU Escuintla JUTIAPA NOTABLE COFFEE- SANTA ROSA PRODUCING REGIONS SUCHITEPÉQUEZ ESCUINTLA AREA OF PRODUCTION 0 km 50 ATITLÁN 0 miles 50 On a level with Antigua, but with ANTIGUA ACATENANGO a little more rain and higher humidity, the areas around Lake The first coffee-producing region in Guatemala, At one of the highest altitudes of Atitlán produce coffee that is often these valley coffees grow at 4,260–5,250ft 4,260–6,560ft (1,300–2,000m) above sea thought of as classic Guatemalan: (1,300–1,600m) above sea level. The weather level, Acatenango is hot and dry with bright and citrusy, chocolatey, full is cool and dry, and the coffee is sweet and rich volcanic soils. The coffee tends to bodied, and fragrant. balanced with nutty, spicy, and chocolatey notes. be high in acidity and very complex.

104 COFFEES OF THE WORLD EL SALVADOR APANECA-LLAMATEPEC Lago de Güija This mountain range, encompassing ALOPTEPEC- Santa Ana, Sonsonate, and METADAN Ahuachapan, is the largest Producing some of the most flavorsome coffee-growing area in the coffees in the world, El Salvador’s coffee is sweet and creamy, with dried fruit, country and contains citrus, chocolate, and caramel notes. a majority of the mid- to large-sized farms. SANTA ANA The very first Arabica varieties to arrive Ahuachapán Santa Ana in El Salvador were left undisturbed on farms while the country went through APANECA- political and economical challenges. LLAMATEPEC Almost two-thirds of the coffee grown now is Bourbon, the remaining one- AHUACHAPÁN EL third being mostly Pacas, and some Pacamara—a popular cross created Sonsonate LA LIBERTAD in El Salvador. Nueva There are about 20,000 growers in San Salvador El Salvador—95 percent of whom have small farms of less than 50 acres SONSONATE (20 hectares) that are about 1,640– 3,900ft (500–1,200m) above sea level. EL BALSAMO- Nearly half of these farms can be found QUETZALTEPEC in the Apaneca-Llamatepec region. As coffee is grown in the shade, coffee Washed Bourbon ALOPTEPEC- EL BALSAMO- plantations have played a vital part in (CO2 Decaf) METAPAN QUETZALTEPEC the battle against deforestation and loss Fresh, highland grown, of habitats for wildlife. If you removed intensely flavored This small volcanic In the southern parts these trees, El Salvador would have beans are best suited region in the northwest of the central belt, the virtually no natural forest left. to withstand the includes well-known Balsamo Range and San decaffeination process. departments such Salvador volcano are In recent years, the growers have as Santa Ana and home to nearly 4,000 focused largely on improving the Chalatenango. It has growers who produce quality of their coffee and marketing the fewest farms, but full-bodied coffees it to specialty buyers—creating a trade is often considered with a classic Central that better withstands the fluctuations to produce some of American balance. of the commodity market. the best coffees. KEY Washed Pacamara A cross of Pacas and NOTABLE COFFEE- Maragogype, the PRODUCING REGIONS Pacamara is often herbal and savory in taste. AREA OF PRODUCTION 0 km 30 COFFEE PLANTATION Coffee is often intercropped with false banana, other 0 miles 30 fruit trees, or trees grown for timber production.

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 105 CENTRAL CHICHONTEPEC CACAHUATIQUE AMERICA CHALATENANGO HONDURAS The departments of The second smallest region, 90 La Paz, San Vincente, percent of the farmers here have and Cuscatlan do not less than 17 acres (7 hectares) produce large volumes, each. The coffees are often light, but their coffee beans sweet, and subtly floral. are well rounded in flavor and growing TECAPA- in popularity. CHINAMECA Embalse Cerrón Grande Covering the departments of Usulutan and San Miguel, this CUSCATLÁN CABAÑAS eastern region is not so well Sensuntepeque known, but can produce some very complex, fine coffees. SALVADO R MORAZÁN C o r d i l l e CACAHUATIQUE g u a t i q u e SAN Lago de ra Caca Washed Tekisik SALVADOR Ilopango This Salvadoran cultivar is a compact dwarf variation San Vicente of the Bourbon. CHICHONTEPEC LA UNIÓN LA PAZ TECAPA- San Miguel Zacatecoluca CHINAMECA USULUTÁN Usulután La Unión PACIFIC Gulf of Fonseca OCEAN SALVADORAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE PROCESSES: MAIN TYPES: OF WORLD WASHED, ARABICA 0.9%MARKET: SOME NATURAL BOURBON, PACAS, HARVEST: PACAMARA, CATURRA, CATUAI, CATISIC OCTOBER– MARCH WORLD RANKING 15th LARGEST COFFEE PRODUCER AS A PRODUCER: IN THE WORLD

106 COFFEES OF THE WORLD Lake Nicaragua COSTA RICA CENTRAL Costa Rican coffees are delicious and easy AMERICA to drink. They display a complex sweetness combined with refined acidity, mellow Gulf SPanentaínEsulelnaaGCuo r d i lle r textures, and a range of citrus, floral flavors. a n a ca s of Papagayo a d te Liberia e Taking great pride in the coffee through something of a revolution GUANACASTE it grows and produces, Costa Rica in the production of quality coffee. has banned Robusta production Numerous micro-mills have been Península to protect its Arabica varieties, such built around growing regions, de Nicoya as Typica, Caturra, and Villa Sarchi. allowing single producers or small The government has also issued groups of farmers to process their Yellow Honey Villalobos strict environmental guidelines to own beans, control and add value The natural sweetness of the protect vulnerable ecosystems and to their crop, and trade directly Villalobos can be intensified the future of coffee production. with buyers around the world. further by the honey process. There are more than 50,000 coffee This development has helped growers in Costa Rica, and around 90 younger generations to continue percent of them are small producers family farms in spite of unstable with less than 12 acres (5 hectares) markets—a trend that is sadly not each. The industry has gone common everywhere in the world. COSTA RICAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE MAIN TYPES: OF WORLD ARABICA 1%MARKET: HARVEST: TYPICA, CATURRA, CATUAI, VILLA SARCHI, VARIES FROM BOURBON, GESHA, REGION TO REGION VILLALOBOS LOCAL PROCESSESES: WASHED, HONEY, NATURAL The term “honey process” is used in Costa Rica to describe the pulped natural process (see p20), when varying degrees of pulp are WORLD RANKING left on the parchment. Honeys areTE 14th LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: white, yellow, red, PRODUCER IN THE WORLD E C H N I QUblack, or gold.

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 107 Yellow Honey Villa Sarchi CENTRAL VALLEY The fruity and floral tones of the Villa Sarchi make it This was the first region to grow one of the most unique coffee in Central America, and Costa Rican varieties. is now also the most populated. Most coffee grows at 3,280– 4,590ft (1,000–1,400m) above sea level, and harvest takes place from November to March. Arenal ALAJUELA Laguna Washed Catuai COSTA HEREDIA Most Costa Rican coffees are washed, RICA tasting bright and crisp even after roasting. C o rPUNTARENAS WEST VALLEY LIMÓN d i l l e rPuntarenas Heredia CENTRAL VALLEY Limón High-altitude coffee plantation CARTAGO Due to climate change, many producers SAN JOSÉ in Costa Rica are choosing to plant Cartago TURRIALBA Arabica farms at higher altitudes. TRES RIOS Gulf SAN JOSÉ o f OROSI Nicoya C TARRAZÚ e n t WEST VALLEY r TRES RIOS C o r d illeraa l The slopes of the TARRAZÚ de PA N A M A A small region east Cordillera Central are of San José between perfect for growing Perhaps the best- PUNTARENAS Talaman c a Tarrazú and Central coffee. They also have known coffee region in Valley, Tres Rios some of the highest Costa Rica, Tarrazú grows Fila C BRUNCA grows classic, well- altitudes of up to mainly Caturra and Catuai, balanced coffees 6,560ft (2,000m) above under shade, at altitudes o s t ña at 3,900–5,250ft sea level. A wealthier of 3,900–6,200ft (1,200– (1,200–1,650m) area than many others, 1,900m) above sea level. e above sea level. 75 percent of its farms The many sub-regions offer Harvest runs from are reserved as forests. different characteristics August to February. They harvest from November to April. BRUNCA and complex flavors. Península Gu Golfito This southernmost region Harvest runs from de Osa started growing coffee November to March. lf of Dulce only in the 1950s. The two main areas are Coto Brus, a cooler, wetter area, and Perez Zeledon, at KEY slightly higher altitudes Yellow Honey Caturra NOTABLE COFFEE- 0 km of up to 5,580ft (1,700m) Extensively grown in Costa PRODUCING REGIONS 0 miles 50 above sea level. Harvest Rica, the Caturras here are often sweet and chocolatey. AREA OF PRODUCTION runs from September 50 to February.

108 COFFEES OF THE WORLD NICARAGUA The best Nicaraguan coffees show a range of flavors— from sweet, fudge, and milk chocolate to more floral, delicate and acidic, herbal, savory, and honeyed—and specific flavor profiles vary from region to region. There is no doubt that this large, There are about 40,000 growers in INCREASING YIELD thinly populated country is capable Nicaragua, 80 percent of whom Farmers are starting to prune and of growing excellent coffees. have farms of fewer than 7 acres fertilize more effectively to increase However, between devastating (3 hectares) each, at altitudes of the yield of their coffee trees. hurricanes and political and financial 2,620–6,200ft (800–1,900m) above instability, both the production sea level. Most coffee grown here is of coffee and its reputation have Arabica, including varieties such suffered. Nevertheless, as coffee as Bourbon and Pacamara. They are is the main export, producers are usually organic due to lack of funds keen to resurrect its standing in for chemicals. The growers are hard specialty markets and continue to trace because they sell their to work on enhancing their coffee to large mills for processing, agricultural practices within but single farms are beginning to an improving infrastructure. trade directly with specialist buyers. NICARAGUAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE HARVEST: OF WORLD OCTOBER–MARCH 1.2%MARKET: MAIN TYPES: PROCESSES: ARABICA WASHED, SOME NATURAL, CATURRA, BOURBON, PACAMARA, AND PULPED NATURAL MARAGOGYPE, MARACATURRA, CATUAI, CATIMOR WORLD RANKING 13th LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: PRODUCER IN THE WORLD

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 109 NUEVA SEGOVIA JINOTEGA Washed Red Catuai CENTRAL As in other countries, AMERICA This region consistently Though it is the second Nicaraguan Catuai produces some of the largest department, trees can grow either finest coffees: high in Jinotega produces the red or yellow fruit. acidity, well structured, most coffee. Often high with a balanced sweetness in acidity, but with a and a complex range of light texture, it displays spices and dried fruits. cocoa and berry notes. Washed Caturra HONDURAS Coast Caturra grows in large areas—sweet REGIÓN Puerto Cabezas and nutty tasting. AUTÓNOMA ATLÁNTICO Caribbean NUEVA SEGOVIA Sea NORTE Ocotal JINOTEGA Washed Pacamara Roasted Pacamaras MADRIZ Isabella from Nicaragua are often herbal and ESTELÍ Lake Mosquito high in acidity. CHINANDEGA Apanás i l ler a ALPA MADRIZ Jinotega MA TAG A small and relatively unknown Cord area that was formerly part of Chinandega Nueva Segovia, Madriz grows a LEÓN NICARAGUA modest amount of light, elegant León Lake BOACO REGIÓN coffees with Managua AUTÓNOMA great potential. PACIFIC CHONTALES ATLÁNTICO OCEAN MANAGUA Juigalpa MATAGALPA SUR MANAGUA With a controlled MASAYA Bluefields citric acidity, creamy texture, delicate Masaya Granada floral notes, and pronounced sweetness, CARAZO GRANADA Lake Matagalpa produces Nicaragua some of the best ESTELÍ RÍO SAN JUAN coffees in Nicaragua. Ometepe Island This small region might not be well RIVAS Washed Maracaturra known, but it 50 A cross of Maragogype and Caturra. produces great 0 km coffee—balanced and 0 miles These big beans can sometimes taste like sweet with a velvety 50 Kenyan coffee, even when grown here. texture, floral aromas, and yellow fruit notes. KEY NOTABLE COFFEE- PRODUCING REGIONS AREA OF PRODUCTION

110 COFFEES OF THE WORLD HONDURAS Some of the most contrasting flavor profiles in Central America are produced in Honduras—from soft, low-acid, nutty, and toffee-like, to highly acidic Kenyan-style coffees. PLANTATION IN AGALTA Honduras is capable of growing including Pacas and Typica. Coffee Coffee trees were first planted in Olancho, and now grow in nearly very clean, complex coffees, but is often organic by default, and every department of Honduras. suffers from poor infrastructure and nearly all of it is shade grown. a lack of controlled drying facilities. To promote local specialty coffee, the CENTRAL Over half of the coffee comes from National Coffee Institute is investing AMERICA just three departments. Smallholdings in training and education. mainly grow varieties of Arabica, Caribbean Sea Utila Washed Pacas Gulf of Honduras Honduran Pacas are often well balanced with complex, fruity aromas. GUATEMALA La Ceiba COLÓN ierra Río Tinto CORTÉS ATLÁNTIDA S San Pedro Sula YORO COPÁN REGION GRACIAS A DIOS COPÁN SANTA H O N D U R A S AGALTA BÁRBARA OLANCHO Juticalpa Santa Rosa EL PARAÍSO de Copán COMAYAGUA S i e r r a MOCOTEPEQUE INTIBUCÁ KEY Comayagua FRANCISCO NOTABLE COFFEE- PRODUCING REGIONS MORAZÁN a d rLEMPIRA AREA OF PRODUCTION MONTECILLOS CENTRAL DISTRICT e 0 km 50 LA PAZ TEGUCIGALPA MONTECILLOS 0 miles 50 This area covers the department VALLE HONDURAN COFFEE of La Paz, parts of Comayagua, Intibucá, and Santa Barbara. Choluteca 3%PERCENTAGE PROCESS: WASHED It boasts some of the highest- CHOLUTECA MAIN TYPES: altitude farms in Honduras OF WORLD resulting in bright, citrus, and MARKET: ARABICA well-structured coffees. HARVEST: CATURRA, CATUAI, COPÁN AGALTA PACAS, TYPICA NOVEMBER–APRIL The departments of Copán, Agalta spans the 7 LARGESTthWORLD RANKING Ocotepeque, Cortés, Santa departments of Olancho Barbara, and part of Lempira, and Yoro. Coffees here are AS A PRODUCER: make up the Copán profile of sometimes tropical and full-bodied coffees with cocoa sweet, with high acidity PRODUCER IN THE WORLD and heavy sweetness. and chocolatey notes.

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 111 PANAMA Washed Caturra This variety is found Panamanian coffees are sweet and balanced, at throughout the times floral or citrus, well-rounded, and easy to drink. country, but is Unusual varieties, such as Geisha, are very expensive. prevalent in Chiriqui. Most coffee grows in the western province medium-sized and family-run, of Chiriqui, where climate and fertile soils are perfect conditions, and the high altitudes and the country has good CENTRAL of the Baru volcano aid slow ripening. This processing facilities and a AMERICA area mainly grows Arabica varieties, such well-developed infrastructure. as Caturra and Typica. Farms are small- to Development threatens farmland, so the future looks treacherous for coffee here. VOLCAN “Wine” process mixed varieties COSTA Some of the highest located farms The local “wine” process allows cherries are found here. Regular rainfall to overripen on the trees (see p20). RICA BOCAS and rich soils mean the Baru Colón Gulf of DEL TORO coffees are often particularly Darien complex and sweet. Lake KUNA DE WARGANDÍ Gatún PANAMÁ Lake KUNA DE Bayano MADUNGANDÍ COLÓN SAN BLAS RENACIMIENTO PANAMA CITY San Miguelito ral B a y of P a Pearl VOLCAN BOQUETE NGÖBE t COCLÉ n a m BUGLE C e n a Cordillera Islands EMBERÁ- PAN WOUNAAN CHIRIQUÍ David AMA Washed Geisha La Palma Gulf of Chiriquí VERAGUAS Due to its success DARIÉN Santiago in Panama, Geishas are now planted EMBERÁ- Chitré around the world. WOUNAAN HERRERA RENACIMIENTO Azuero LOS Panama’s most northern Coiba Peninsula SANTOS coffee-growing region, Renacimiento is hard PANAMANIAN COFFEE to reach and less well known. Right on the BOQUETE PERCENTAGE MAIN TYPES: border with Costa Rica, 0.08%OF WORLD ARABICA Renacimiento has farms The oldest and up to 6,560ft (2,000m) best-known district MARKET: CATURRA, CATUAI, above sea level with for coffee in Panama, TYPICA, GEISHA, great potential for clean, it is cool and misty PROCESSES: MUNDO NOVO high-acidity coffees. and home to some of the most highly WASHED AND SOME ROBUSTA KEY priced coffees in the NATURAL NOTABLE COFFEE- world. Flavors range HARVEST: PRODUCING REGIONS from cocoa to fruity DECEMBER– AREA OF PRODUCTION with subtle acidity. TH MARCH 0 km 50 36WORLD RANKING 0 miles 50 AS A PRODUCER:



COFFEES OF THE WORLD CARIBBEAN AND NORTH AMERICA

114 COFFEES OF THE WORLD Tijuana Mexicali MEXICO Baja SC BAJA Coffees from Mexico are slowly CALIFORNIA r emerging on the specialty market, r gaining popularity for their sweet, C Golfo e soft, mild, and balanced flavors. i ali SONORA Hermosillo CHIHUAHUA de a SINALOA Culiacán for dre a About 70 percent of Mexican coffee are slowly n M is grown 1,300–2,950ft (400–900m) above sea level. The coffee industry discovering each i alifornia involves more than 300,000 people, most of whom are producers with other. Cooperatives a small farms that are less than 60 acres (25 hectares) in size. and farms that grow Low yields, limited financial support, poor infrastructure, and coffee at altitudes reaching little technical assistance make it difficult for producers to improve 5,500ft (1,700m) above sea BAJA quality. However, specialty coffee level are also starting to CALIFORNIA buyers and producers with the export coffee with personality potential to grow high-quality coffee SUR and complexity. Almost all coffee produced is La Paz washed Arabica, such as Bourbon and Typica. Harvest starts around November in the lowlands, finishing around March in the higher regions. MEXICAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE HARVEST: OF WORLD NOVEMBER–MARCH 3%MARKET: PROCESSES: MAIN TYPES: WASHED, SOME NATURAL 90% ARABICA CHALLENGES: BOURBON, TYPICA, CATURRA, MUNDO NOVO, LOW YIELDS, LIMITED FINANCIAL 10% ROBUSTAMARAGOGYPE, CATIMOR, CATUAI, GARNICA AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT, POOR INFRASTRUCTURE WORLD RANKING 8th LARGEST COFFEE PRODUCER AS A PRODUCER: IN THE WORLD

CARIBBEAN AND NORTH AMERICA 115 NORTH AMERICA a Washed Caturra, Catuai, Bourbon Coffee seedlings in a nursery r Mexican farmers often grow In Mexico, as in most other countries and regions, r several varieties side by side. coffee-tree seedlings start life growing in a nursery e (see pp16–17), protected under shade cover. i COAHUILAS Monterrey PUEBLA CHIAPAS NUEVO Puebla is the fourth Coffees from Chiapas can have LEÓN largest coffee-producing stone-fruit flavors and cocoa notes. region. Coffee from here On the border with Guatemala, this TAMAULIPAS is grown up to 4,590ft tropical jungle in the southeastern DURANGO Madre (1,400m) above sea level, corner is the largest and most popular Durango and is generally soft and coffee-producing area in Mexico. subtle with nutty tones. i ZACATECAS c c MEXICO O SAN LUIS VERACRUZ C a r i b b e a n Yucatan Channel POTOSÍ Along the coast NAYARIT d San Luis of the Gulf of Sea Mérida Tepic AGUASCALIENTES Potosí Mexico, Veracruz has both high- and e t lowland-growing YUCATÁN n coffees that display n GUANAJUATO e a range of flavors Yucatan t Léon i and qualities. a r O Guadalajara QUE RÉTARO Peninsula JALISCO Querétaro Campeche HIDALGO QUINTANA l aMEXICO CITY TLAXCALA ROO P COLIMA Morelia Toluca Puebla l B a hí a d e e CAMPECHE A MICHOACÁN C a m p ec h CHIAPAS C VERACRUZ MÉXICO Cuernavaca MORELOS PUEBLA TABASCO IFIC Sie rr a GUERRERO l Oaxaca Istmo Tuxtla E de KEY OC A Madre de Sur Tehuantepec Acapulco OAXACA N Sierra Madre NOTABLE COFFEE- OAXACA PRODUCING REGIONS AREA OF PRODUCTION On the southern Mexico coast, this region Washed Caturra, 0 km 200 produces coffee up to 5,500ft (1,700m) above Catuai, Bourbon sea level, with medium body, chocolate and Low in acidity, Mexican Arabica 0 miles 200 almond notes, and a delicate acidity. shines when lightly roasted.

116 COFFEES OF THE WORLD PUERTO RICO NORTH AMERICA One of the smallest coffee-producing nations, Puerto Rico grows sweet, low-acidity coffees with a smooth, rounded texture and cedar, herbal, and almond notes. JAYUYA Coffee production in Puerto Rico ADJUNTAS Also known as the has declined in recent years due to indigenous capital political instability, climate change, Mediterranean immigrants brought of the country, nestled and high production costs. It is estimated coffee to this area, which is nicknamed in the tropical cloud that nearly half of the crop is left the “Switzerland of Puerto Rico” for forests in the Cordillera unharvested due to a lack of pickers. its cool climate and altitudes of up Central, Jayuya has the to 3,280ft (1,000m) above sea level. second highest altitude Farms are located throughout the in Puerto Rico. western central mountains from Rincon to Orocovis, with most of the coffee SAN JUAN grown at 2,460–2,780ft (750–850m) above sea level. However, there is also Arecibo potential for growing at higher altitudes, such as in Ponce, where the highest peak Bayamón Carolina reaches 4,390ft (1,338m) above sea level. LAS MARIASPUERTO RICO Sierra de Arabica varieties are mainly grown Luquillo here, such as Bourbon, Typica, Pacas, (to US) and Catimor. Puerto Ricans drink only a third of the homegrown coffee—the JAYUYA Caguas rest comes from the Dominican Republic and Mexico. A small quantity is exported. Mayagüez ADJUNTAS Central dSeieCrraaye y Cordillera Ponce Caribbean Sea LAS MARIAS Known as the City of Citrus Fruit, Las Marias’ agriculture also centers around coffee. Many of the old coffee haciendas are on the route of the Puerto Rican coffee tour operators. PUERTO RICAN COFFEE PERCENTAGE LESS THAN MAIN TYPES: Washed Pacas OF WORLD 0.01% ARABICA Imported from El MARKET: Salvador, the Pacas grows successfully HARVEST: BOURBON, TYPICA, on Puerto Rican soil. AUGUST–MARCH CATURRA, CATUAI, PACAS, PROCESS: SARCHIMOR LIMANI, WASHED KEY CATIMOR PEDIMENT NOTABLE COFFEE- 52ndWORLD RANKING LARGEST PRODUCING REGIONS Roasted washed Catimor A hybrid of Robusta and AS A PRODUCER: AREA OF PRODUCTION Arabica, Catimors grow and yield well in most PRODUCER IN THE WORLD 0 km 30 areas, Puerto Rico 0 miles 30 being no exception.

CARIBBEAN AND NORTH AMERICA 117 HAWAII Hawaiian coffees are balanced, clean, delicate, and mild with some milk chocolate, subtle fruity acidity, and medium body. They can be aromatic and sweet. Hawaii mainly grows varieties On the island, coffee has to have COFFEE INTERCROPPING of Arabica, such as Typica, Catuai at least 10 percent Kona-grown Growers are increasingly planting and Caturra. Hawaiian coffees are coffee in it to bear the name, while, other trees alongside the coffee well-marketed and expensive, which controversially, mainland US has trees to help to provide shade. means they are some of the most no such rules. counterfeited coffees in the world— especially the coffee from Kona. Production and labor cost is high; many stages are highly mechanized. Kauai Washed Red Catuai NORTH Hawaiian Catuais AMERICA KAUAI Líhu‘e can sometimes take on a mushroomlike, leathery taste. Niihau KAUAI Kaua‘i Oahu Channel Pearl City The biggest of the northwestern isles, Honolulu HAWAII PACIFIC HAWAII Kauai produces nearly half of Hawaii’s OCEAN coffee. While it has altitudes of up to Molokai The areas of Kona, 5,250ft (1,600m) above sea level, coffee Ka’u, Hamakua, and also grows in places as low as 492ft PACIFIC Maui North Hilo stretch (150m) above sea level. OCEAN down the sides of the Wailuku Mauna Loa volcano, Lánai and the coffee trees here thrive in the rich, MAUI black soil. Most of the coffees from this island HAWAIIAN COFFEE Kahoolawe are fully washed. PERCENTAGE LESS THAN HARVEST: MAUI Hilo 0.01%OF WORLD SEPTEMBER–JANUARY MAIN TYPES: Maui has the second highest HAWAII MARKET: elevation of the islands, and harvests nearly all Hawaii PROCESSES: ARABICA year. 60 percent of the coffee beans are naturally WASHED TYPICA, CATURRA, CATUAI, processed. Nearly all of the AND NATURAL MOCHA, BLUE MOUNTAIN, coffee is sold already roasted. MUNDO NOVO KEY 41stWORLD RANKING LARGEST NOTABLE COFFEE- AS A PRODUCER: PRODUCING REGIONS AREA OF PRODUCTION PRODUCER IN THE WORLD 0 km 50 0 miles 50

118 FLAVOR PAIRINGS CHOC Berries Raspberry, cherry, FLAVOR PAIRINGS NUTTYstrawberry, and huckleberry. For a creamy berry-flavored You can pair coffee with complementary flavors coffee, try Strawberry to create exciting drinks. Try sweet, rich, fresh, or spicy pairings, for results that will surprise your palate. lace (p180). Nuts OLATEY Pistachio, peanut, hazelnut, almond, cashew, RICH chestnut, walnut, and pecan. The Almond affogato (p178) is topped with chopped almonds. Drinks Darjeeling tea, brandy, beer, cognac, whisky, Cointreau, rum, gin, and tequila. The classic alcoholic coffee, Irish coffee (p208) marries the flavors of whisky and coffee perfectly. Herbs Dairy Rosemary, sage, eucalyptus, Milk, milk substitutes tarragon, basil, peppermint, such as soy, almond, coriander, hops, chamomile, elderflower, and bergamot. or rice milk, cream, yogurt, and butter. For a Breath of fresh air dairy-free option, try Rice (p195) pairs coffee with peppermint. milk ice latte (p192).

Exotic fruits FLAVOR PAIRINGS 119 Mango, lychee, pineapple, Orchard fruits and coconut. For a hot, Apple, pear, and fig. For delicious drink, coconut a hot black coffee with an apple–berry twist, lovers can try Mochi try I’m your huckleberry affogato (p177). (p168). FRUITYSPICY Citrus Lemon and orange. CARAMEL Lemon juice adds freshness to a glass of cold-brewed Syrups and coffee such as Caribbean sweeteners Honey, molasses, punch (p190). cocoa powder, and caramel. For a Stone fruits naturally sweetened Apricot and nectarine. cold coffee, try Milk For a refreshing cold and honey (p199). coffee, try Apricot star (p193). Spices Chile, vanilla, ginger, lemongrass, cinnamon, licorice, nutmeg, saffron, and cumin. Try Syphon spice (p172) for coffee infused with nutmeg.

120 COFFEES OF THE WORLD JAMAICA Some of the most well-marketed and expensive coffees in the world grow here. Beans are sweet, soft, and mellow, with nutty notes and medium textures. The most famous Jamaican coffees expensive, but often counterfeit— are those from the Blue Mountain either partially or completely—and range. These iconic beans ship in measures are being developed wooden barrels rather than jute to protect it. Typica also grows or burlap bags. The variety is here in large quantities. BLUE MOUNTAIN PLANTATION Montego Bay A Jamaican coffee estate on the slopes of the Blue Mountain, TRELAWNY with mineral-rich, fertile soil. HANOVER The Cockpit SAINT ANN SAINT MARY Country Jamaic WESTMORELAND Port Antonio CENTRAL J AMAICA PORTLAND Channel & WEST a EAST SAINT Mandeville SAINT SAINT SAINT THOMAS ELIZABETH CLARENDON CATHERINE ANDREW Morant Bay MANCHESTER Spanish Town KINGSTON May Pen Portmore CARIBBEAN Portland Bight 0 km 30 0 miles 30 JAMAICAN COFFEE CENTRAL AND WEST PERCENTAGE LESS THAN HARVEST: 0.01%OF WORLD SEPTEMBER– While they are not named MARCH Blue Mountain, the rest Washed Typica and Catuai MARKET: of Jamaica grows the same Typica is widely cultivated, variety, but in different whereas Catuai is a newer MAIN TYPES: microclimates and at variety to Jamaica. ARABICA PROCESS: lower altitudes, peaking at MOSTLY TYPICA, around 3,280ft (1,000m) EAST BLUE MOUNTAIN WASHED above sea level where the borders of Trelawny, The Blue Mountain peaks at 44WORLD RANKING TH LARGEST Manchester, Clarendon, 7,400ft (2,256m) and borders and Saint Ann meet. Portland and Saint Thomas. AS A PRODUCER: The mountain range provides COFFEE PRODUCER IN THE WORLD KEY a cool, misty climate, well- suited to coffee growing. NOTABLE COFFEE- PRODUCING REGIONS AREA OF PRODUCTION

CARIBBEAN AND NORTH AMERICA 121 DOMINICAN REPUBLIC There are several growing regions here with varying microclimates. They produce coffee that ranges from chocolatey, spicy, and heavy to floral, bright, and delicate. As many Dominicans drink local to a decline in quality. Most coffee HARVEST SEASON coffee, only a modest amount is is Arabica—Typica, Caturra, and Harvest runs almost all year, due exported. Combined with low prices Catuai. Measures are being taken to lack of a consistent climate or and hurricane damage, this has led to improve the coffee grown here. defined wet season. PUERTO PLATA MONTE CRISTI MARÍA C A R I B B E A N VALVERDE ESPAILLAT TRINIDAD Washed Typica and Catuai SÁNCHEZ Coffee cherries ripen H i s p a n i o l a Santiago HERMANAS DAJABÓN slowly, producing dense SANTIAGO SANTIAGO MIRABAL CIBA0 coffee beans. RODRÍGUEZ MI La Vega San Francisco de Macorís D OELÍNAS NI DUARTE SAMANÁ CAN HAITI PIÑA LA VEGA MONSEÑOR SÁNCHEZ HATO EL SEIBO CIBAO NOUEL RAMÍREZ MAYOR SAN Coffees are full, sweet, PUBLIC El Seibo and nutty in the lower R EJUAN MONTE PLATA regions and light, fruity, and floral at altitudes of San Juan up to 4,900ft (1,500m) above sea level. NEYBA AZUA SAN JOSÉ SAN PEDRO LA ALTAGRACIA DE OCOA SAN SANTO DOMINGO DE MACORÍS LA ROMANA Lago Enriquillo BAORUCO CRISTÓBAL INDEPENDENCIA SANTO San Pedro La Romana VALDESIA DOMINGO de Macorís PERAVIA Barahona NEYBA DOMINICAN COFFEE BARAHONA PEDERNALES The areas around the town 0.3%PERCENTAGE HARVEST: of Neyba in Baoruco grow Washed some of the most lemony OF WORLD SEPTEMBER– Maragogype and light-bodied coffees. MARKET: MAY These large Harvest is between November beans often and February. MAIN TYPES: PROCESSES: have herbal, cedar, and BARAHONA ARABICA WASHED, tobacco notes. SOME Perhaps the best known MOSTLY TYPICA, NATURAL province for coffee, Barahona SOME CATURRA, CATUAI, grows full-bodied, low-acidity BOURBON, MARAGOGYPE coffees with chocolatey notes KEY 1,970–4,260ft (600–1,300m) 26WORLD RANKING TH LARGEST above sea level. NOTABLE COFFEE- AS A PRODUCER: PRODUCING REGIONS 0 km 50 COFFEE PRODUCER IN THE WORLD 0 miles 50 AREA OF PRODUCTION

122 COFFEES OF THE WORLD CUBA Cuban coffees have a mixed reputation and are highly priced. They are generally heavy-bodied, with low acidity, balanced sweetness, and earthy tobacco notes. Coffee was introduced to Cuba in Isla 6–14. Cubans drink more coffee CUBAN MOUNTAIN RANGES the mid-1700s. Cuba grew to become than they grow, so only a minor Steep Cuban mountain ranges one of the world’s largest exporters percentage is exported. Only a provide a cool climate with before political turmoil and economic small part of the island has the good sun exposure. restrictions saw it surpassed by South altitude to grow speciality grades, American countries. The majority of but the mineral-rich soil and the crop is Arabica—Villalobos and climate increases its potential. Washed Villalobos WEST HAVANA The sweetness of this HAVANA variety can balance the Matanzas rustic notes that local ARTEMISA microclimates promote. PINAR MAYABEQUE DEL RÍO MATANZAS VILLA CLARA Pinar del Río Santa Clara CIENFUEGOS CIEGO DE CARIBBEAN Cienfuegos ÁVILA SANCTI Juventud ISLA DE LA JUENTUD SPÍRITUS CUBA CENTRAL Camaguey WEST CAMAGÜEY The Sierra de Los Organos and CENTRAL LAS TUNAS Holguín Sierra del Rosario mountains HOLGUÍN of the Guaniguanico range The Escambray and Guamuaya are home to the western-most mountain ranges are 49 miles (80km) Golfo de Bayamo SANTIAGO GUANTÁNAMO coffee growers in Cuba. The long and lie on the southern coast in area is also part of a biosphere central Cuba, where coffee grows up to Guacanayabo GRANMA DE CUBA Guantánamo reserve. Coffees tend to be mild, just under 3,280ft (1,000m) above sea solid, and sometimes spicy. level and tends to have muted acidity, Sierra Maestra Santiago heavy textures, and cedar notes. EAST de Cuba Bahía de Guantánamo (to US) CUBAN COFFEE KEY FACTS EAST PERCENTAGE LESS MAIN TYPE: HARVEST: The Sierra Maestra and Sierra Cristal are mountains OF WORLD THAN ARABICA JULY– along the southern coast of the east of Cuba. This MARKET: 0.1% FEBRUARY area has the highest altitudes, with Turquino Peak VILLALOBOS, rising up to 6,200ft (1,974m) above sea level—the best climate for more complex speciality coffee. PROCESSES: ISLA 6–14 KEY Washed Bourbon WASHED SOME ROBUSTA In local tradition, Cuban NOTABLE COFFEE- coffees are often roasted PRODUCING REGIONS to quite a dark level. WORLD RANKING AREA OF PRODUCTION 40th LARGESTASAPRODUCER: 0 km 150 PRODUCER 0 miles 150

CARIBBEAN AND NORTH AMERICA 123 HAITI CARIBBEAN ARTIBONITE AND CENTER Most coffees from Haiti are naturally Tortue processed and nutty with fruity While these areas do not tones. Washed coffees with sweet Port-de-Paix grow as much as the Nord and citrus notes are on the rise. department, the Belladere, Savanette, and Petite Riviere de l’Artibonite communes have a lot of potential for growth. Coffee has been grown in Haiti NORD-OUEST Cap-Haïtien since 1725. The country was once H i s p a nNORD i o l a responsible for half of the world’s production. Hindered by political NORD-EST turmoil and natural disasters, there Gonaïves are now few coffee-growing areas and skilled smallholders. A very ARTIBONITE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC high internal consumption adds Hinche to these challenges. However, with altitudes of 6,560ft (2,000m) and HAITI heavily shaded forest, the coffee industry has great potential. Haiti grows Arabica varieties, such as Gonâve PORT-AU-PRINCE CENTER Typica, Bourbon, and Caturra. Washed Bourbon Lake Jérémie When lightly roasted, Azuei Bourbon beans are sweet with subtle stone-fruit notes. GRAND’ANSE OUEST Massif de la Hotte NIPPES SOUTHEAST SOUTH GRAND’ANSE Jacmel Cayes This easternmost region Vache is home to a majority of the HAITIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS 175,000 families who grow coffee in Haiti, most of them SOUTH AND PERCENTAGE HARVEST: with small farms with up to 17 acres (7 hectares) each. SOUTHEAST 0.2%OF WORLD AUGUST–MARCH Washed Villalobos Haiti’s southern coast, MARKET: MAIN TYPES: Haitian coffees tend particularly the area PROCESSES: to be naturals, but bordering Dominican NATURAL, ARABICA TYPICA, varieties like the Republic, is home to SOME WASHED BOURBON, CATURRA, Villalobos really many of the smallest CATIMOR, VILLALOBOS shine when washed. farms with conditions KEY suitable for growing 30th LARGESTWORLDRANKING NOTABLE COFFEE- high-quality coffee. AS A PRODUCER: PRODUCING REGIONS 0 km 50 PRODUCER AREA OF PRODUCTION 50 0 miles



EQUIPMENT

126 EQUIPMENT ESPRESSO MACHINE Warming time A standard machine An espresso machine relies on pump pressure to force water takes about 20–30 through coffee to extract the desired solubles. It produces a minutes to heat up to small and viscous drink when used correctly—an intense shot the correct temperature, that is balanced between sweet and acidic. The technique for so keep this in mind using the machine is shown on pages 42–47. before you brew. WHAT YOU NEED • Fine ground coffee (see p39) The tamper Use this to compress the bed of coffee down to expel pockets of air and create a compact, even layer of grounds. This layer needs to withstand the pressure of water and allow all the coffee to extract as uniformly as possible. A rubber tamping mat will protect your table from getting dented by the spouts. The filter basket The coffee is portioned into a removable filter basket held in place with a clip. Baskets come in a range of sizes depending on how much coffee you prefer to use when preparing your espresso. The number, shape, and size of the tiny holes at the bottom of the basket will also impact the result you get in the cup. Portafilter The filter basket fits into a portafilter, which is a handle with one or two spouts.

The group head Pressure gauge ESPRESSO MACHINE 127 The portafilter fastens into a group Many home espresso head where water is dispersed through machines are advertised as Water a metal screen onto the bed of coffee, having unnecessarily high bar temperature saturating and extracting it evenly. pressure. Professional machines Adjust this to are normally set to brew at 195–200ºF (90–95ºC) 9 bars, with a steam pressure —this should bring out of 1–1.5 bars. Some machines the best flavors in the will have the option of allowing coffee. Some coffees taste pre-infusion, an initial phase of better with hot water, gently wetting the coffee before others better with full pump pressure is applied. cooler water. The boilers The machines will generally have one or two boilers inside, providing and heating up the water used for brewing, creating the steam used to steam milk, and a separate hot water tap for miscellaneous use. The steam arm The steam arm should be movable to allow you to set it at an angle that works for you. The steam tips or nozzles come in various options that allow you to choose the force and direction of steam that you enjoy working with. Keep this clean at all times, as milk quickly bakes on both the inside and outside of the steam wand.

128 EQUIPMENT Plunger This plunger pushes the mesh filter FRENCH PRESS through the brew, and separates and retains the grounds at the The classic press, sometimes known as a bottom of the pot. cafetière, is a great vessel for brewing good coffee. It’s simple and quick—water and coffee Brew Time infuse together before a mesh filter pushes Brew for 4 minutes. through the brew, leaving oils and fine After plunging, allow particles. This gives the coffee a great texture. the press to rest for 2 minutes more to allow WHAT YOU NEED particles to settle • Medium–coarse ground coffee (see p39) before you pour. • Digital weighing scale to help Mesh filter get the coffee–water ratio right. Unscrew each element of this HOW IT WORKS after you’ve served (see 1 Preheat the press with hot water then Cleaning, left). discard the water. Place the press on a scale and tare. Stir twice Stir before brewing 2 Add the coffee to the press and tare again. A good ratio to start with is 1oz (30g) to saturate the coffee to 16fl oz (500ml) water. grounds, then after 3 Add the water, checking it is the right to settle them. volume and temperature, preferably 195–200ºF (90–94ºC). 4 Stir the coffee once or twice. 5 Leave to brew for 4 minutes, then carefully stir the surface again. 6 Skim the foam and floating particles off the surface with a spoon. 7 Place the filter on top of the press and gently push down until the grounds are collected at the bottom. If you meet too much resistance, you may have used too much coffee, too fine a grind, or not let the coffee steep for long enough. 8 Allow to rest in the press for a couple of minutes, then serve. CLEANING • Often dishwasher safe Check your model. • Dismantle This avoids trapped grounds and oils that may impart a bitter or sour flavor.

FILTER BREWERS 129 POUR-OVER Paper filter Brewing through a paper filter is an easy These hold back way to make coffee straight into a mug or fine particles and serving vessel. As the grounds are easily oil. While they can disposed of with the paper filter, the impart some flavor to method is also clean and stress-free. the brew, choosing bleached filters and WHAT YOU NEED Filter holder rinsing them well This sits on top helps to reduce the • Medium ground coffee (see p39) of your jug or paperlike taste. • Digital weighing scale to help you serving vessel. Pouring get the coffee–water ratio right. water HOW IT WORKS Filter grid Keep the coffee Supports the submerged when you 1 Rinse the paper filter well. Preheat filter in the holder. pour over the water, or the filter holder and pitcher or mug with let it build up along the warm water. Discard the water. Brew time sides of the filter as the It should take 3–4 water flows through 2 Place the pitcher or mug onto a scale. minutes for the water to the center—see what Place the filter on top, and tare. filter through. Play with grind and dose until you works for you. 3 Add the coffee to the filter and tare again. get a time and flavor A good ratio to start with is 2oz (60g) Serving jug coffee to 13⁄4 pints (1 liter) water. that you like. Brew into a pitcher or directly 4 Saturate the grounds with a little water into a cup. at preferably 195–200ºF (90–94ºC), and leave them to swell for about 30 seconds to allow the “bloom” to settle. 5 Keep pouring water over in a slow, continuous stream or in portions until you have poured over the right volume of water. Serve when the water has filtered through. CLEANING • Dishwasher safe Most filter holders are machine washable. • Sponge wash Use a soft sponge and some lightly soapy water to rinse off any oils and particles.

130 EQUIPMENT CLOTH BREWER Pouring water A traditional way of filtering through the grounds, cloth-brewing is also known as “sock” or “nel” Try not to overfill brewing. Fans prefer it to paper-filter brewing the filter when you because the process doesn’t impart a papery pour the water over the flavor. The coffee also gains a richer texture coffee grounds. Instead, due to the oils that pass through the cloth. pour it at a gentle speed so that the filter is never WHAT YOU NEED more than three- • Medium ground coffee (see p39) quarters full. • Digital weighing scale to help you Cloth filter get the coffee–water ratio right. Filter function HOW IT WORKS Brew time As the water is The water should take poured over the 1 Rinse the cloth filter thoroughly in hot 3–4 minutes to filter coffee, the cloth water before the first use to clean and through. Play with the holds back the fine preheat the filter. If you have frozen grind and dose until coffee particles. your filter (see below), this process will you get the right time defrost it at the same time. Serving pitcher and flavor. 2 Place the filter on top of the brewing vessel and pour hot water through to preheat it. Discard the water. 3 Tare the brewer by placing it on a digital scale. 4 Add the coffee, working on a base recipe of 1⁄2oz (15g) coffee to 9oz (250ml) water. 5 Wet the grounds with a little water at approximately 195–200ºF (90–94ºC). Let them swell for 30–45 seconds to allow the “bloom” to settle down. 6 Continue pouring water over the coffee in a gentle, continuous stream or in stages. When all the water has filtered through, serve the coffee. CLEANING • Reusable Discard the grounds and rinse filters in hot water. Do not use soap. • Keep moist Either freeze filters when wet or keep in a sealed container in the fridge.

AEROPRESS BREWERS 131 A quick and clean brewer, an AeroPress Plunger can brew a full filter-style cup, or a strong, This sits inside more concentrated coffee that can be the brew chamber diluted with hot water. It is easy to play and is used to with grind, dose of coffee, and pressure, push the coffee making it a wonderfully flexible choice. through the filter cap. WHAT YOU NEED ALTERNATIVE METHOD • Fine–medium ground coffee (see p39) Rather than flipping the • Digital weighing scale to help AeroPress over the cup at step 6, place the empty AeroPress you get the coffee–water ratio right. (with filter paper in the cap) over the vessel. Add coffee and HOW IT WORKS water. As soon as the coffee and water are poured in, the 1 Insert the plunger about 3⁄4in (2cm) plunger needs to be quickly into the brew chamber. placed on top to keep the coffee from dripping into the cup. 2 Tare the AeroPress by placing it on a scale, inverted, plunger down and brew chamber Brew chamber up. Ensure the seal is tight and stable The coffee and water and that the AeroPress will not fall over. in the brew chamber is compressed through 3 Add 1⁄4oz (12g) coffee to the brew a filter by the plunger. chamber and tare the brewer again. Filter cap 4 Add 7fl oz (200ml) hot water and The paper filter sits stir carefully to avoid knocking the in the filter cap and AeroPress over. Let sit for 30–60 is screwed to the seconds and stir again. brew chamber. 5 Place a filter paper in the cap and rinse it well, then screw it onto the brew chamber. 6 Quickly but gently flip the AeroPress over to sit filter cap down on top of a sturdy cup or serving vessel. 7 Press the plunger down gently to brew the coffee into your cup. Serve. CLEANING • Taking apart Twist off the filter cap and push the plunger all the way through to pop out the spent grounds in the filter. Discard. • Wash Rinse well and use soapy water, or wash in the dishwasher.

132 EQUIPMENT SYPHON One of the most visually interesting methods of brewing coffee, syphons are particularly popular in Japan. Brewing takes time in a syphon, but this is part of its ceremonial appeal. WHAT YOU NEED Brew chamber Ground coffee Add the coffee only • Medium ground coffee (see p39) Filter after the water has The filter—paper HOW IT WORKS or cloth—sits at traveled into the the bottom of the brew chamber. 1 Fill the bottom bowl of the syphon with brew chamber. near-boiling water, up to the desired number of cups. Water Use near boiling 2 Position the filter in the brew chamber water to speed up by dropping it in and pulling the beaded the percolation string through the funnel until the little hook can fasten to the opening. The process. string should touch the glass of the bowl. Bottom bowl 3 Place the funnel gently into the bowl of This holds the water. Rest the chamber on a slight slant water into which without sealing the bowl off. the funnel is placed. 4 Light the flame, and as the water starts to boil, secure the brew chamber onto the bowl. Don’t tighten it, just ensure it is sealed. The brew chamber will begin to fill. Some water remains in the bowl below the funnel. 5 When the brew chamber has filled, add the coffee—1⁄2oz (15g) coffee to 9fl oz (250ml) water—and stir for a few seconds. 6 Allow to brew for one minute. 7 Stir the coffee again and remove the flame to begin the draw down process. 8 When the coffee has drained into the bottom bowl, gently remove the brew chamber and serve. CLEANING Hot glass Always take great • Paper filter Discard this and rinse the filter care when working holder in soapy water. with the flame and the hot glass, as both the • Cloth filter Use the technique on p130. syphon and coffee will be hot.

STOVE-TOP Open lid BREWERS 133 POT Leave the lid open when brewing, Heating The stove-top, or moka pot, brews so you can watch the coffee a strong cup of coffee using steam the process. The pot will get pressure, which imparts a silky very hot, so be careful texture. Contrary to popular belief, to protect your hands it is not designed to make espresso, from the heat with but its use of high temperatures oven gloves. gives the coffee an intense flavor. Filter plate WHAT YOU NEED Filter • Medium ground coffee (see p39) Bottom pot HOW IT WORKS Top section 1 Pour hot water into the bottom part of the Ground coffee pot until it is just under the inside valve. There is no need to compact the 2 Fill the filter with coffee loosely, using grounds, only to a ratio of a scant 1oz (25g) coffee to 16fl oz (500ml) water. Level it off. level them. 3 Place the filter in the bottom pot and Boiling water screw on the top section. Avoid a burnt flavor in the coffee by 4 Place the stove-top pot over medium using near boiling water. heat, leaving the lid open. This will help regulate the temperature of the 5 Monitor the brew as the water boils liquid and prevent the and coffee begins to appear. whole pot from overheating. 6 Remove the pot from the heat when the coffee goes pale in color and starts to bubble. 7 Wait until the bubbling stops, then serve. CLEANING • Allow to cool Let the pot sit for 30 minutes before dismantling it, or run it under cold water to cool it down. • Sponge in hot water Do not clean the parts with soap. Using a nonabrasive sponge or brush and hot water will be sufficient.

134 EQUIPMENT COLD DRIPPER Cold water The cold water Use cold water to brew low-acidity coffee that can be served cold or hot. It is not as slowly drips easy to extract with cold water, so it requires through during the more time and a cold dripper tower. If you don’t have one, you can also add the coffee brew process. and water to a French press, leave it overnight in the fridge, then strain it through a filter. WHAT YOU NEED Top chamber • Medium ground coffee (see p39) HOW IT WORKS Brew time It should take 1 Close the drip valve on the top around 5–6 hours for chamber and fill it with cold water. 16fl oz (500ml) of brewed coffee to filter 2 Rinse the middle chamber filter through the cold thoroughly, and add the coffee. Use dripper tower. a ratio of 2oz (60g) coffee to 16fl oz (500ml) water. Middle chamber 3 Shake gently to distribute evenly, Filter and cover with another rinsed filter. BREWING DOUBLE-STRENGTH 4 Open the valve and allow a small amount of water to run into the coffee Another way to produce cold-brewed to wet it and start the extraction. coffee is to brew it double-strength over ice using a filter pour-over, cloth brewer, 5 Adjust the valve to drip about once or AeroPress. Use 2oz (60g) coffee and every two seconds, or 30–40 drops 16fl oz (500ml) hot water. Fill a serving per minute. vessel with ice cubes; while brewing, the ice will chill and dilute the coffee 6 When all the water has dripped to the right temperature and strength. through, you will have cold coffee Note that this method will bring out you can enjoy neat, diluted with hot acids and compounds from the coffee or cold water, or served over ice. not extracted with a cold dripper. CLEANING • Hand wash Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If in doubt, wash gently with hot water and a soft cloth, without soap. Rinse the cloth filter in water and store it in the fridge or freezer between uses.

BREWERS 135 ELECTRIC Brew time FILTER-BREW It should take about 4–5 minutes. If you This humble coffee maker may not seem like have brewed too much an exciting way to brew, but it can produce coffee, decant the great coffee if you use quality beans and fresh water. It is easy to clean, as the grounds leftover into a are easily removed and composted. preheated thermos. WHAT YOU NEED Filter • Medium ground coffee (see p39) • Preheated thermos to store leftover coffee. HOW IT WORKS Serving pitcher 1 Fill the reservoir of the machine Fresh water with fresh, cold water. Filtered or bottled 2 Rinse the paper filter thoroughly water prevents and place it in its holder. scaling and imparts 3 Add coffee measuring about 2oz a fresh flavor. (60g) coffee to 1¾ pints (1 liter) water and shake the filter holder gently to distribute. 4 Place the filter back in the machine and start the brew cycle. When the machine has finished brewing, serve. CLEANING • Use filtered water This reduces limescale build-up and helps to keep the heating element and water lines clear. • Descaling A descaling solution can be a good preventative measure against limescale build-up.

136 EQUIPMENT PHIN Brew time The water should Easy to use, the Vietnamese phin drip through in about uses a gravity-based filter insert to 4–5 minutes. If it takes compress the coffee. In Chinese phins, less or more time, the filter is screwed on, allowing more adjust the grind or extraction control. All phins are very user-friendly, enabling you to change dose to suit. grind and dose to your preference. Lid WHAT YOU NEED Filter The lid helps retain heat • Fine–medium ground coffee (see p39) during brewing and is used HOW IT WORKS Cup as a saucer to catch any drips 1 Preheat the phin by placing the phin after brewing. saucer and the phin cup on top of a mug, and pouring hot water through. Discard Saucer the water from the mug. 2 Place the coffee in the bottom of the phin cup—use a ratio of a heaped teaspoon (7g) coffee to 31⁄2fl oz (100ml) water— and shake gently to distribute the coffee grounds evenly. 3 Place the filter on top, twisting it a little to even out the grounds. 4 Pour about one-third of the hot water over the filter. Allow the coffee to swell for 1 minute. 5 Continue to pour the rest of the water over the filter. Place the lid on the phin to retain the heat, and watch as the water slowly drips through to brew the coffee. After 4–5 minutes, serve your drink. CLEANING Mug • Dishwasher Most can be washed in the dishwasher, but check your instructions. • Easy cleaning Hot water and soap are also fine for removing coffee oils from the metal cup and filter.

IBRIK BREWERS 137 Popular in Eastern Europe and the Middle Repeated East, the ibrik, also known as cezve, briki, heating rakwa, finjan, and kanaka, is a tin-lined You can heat the copper pot with a long handle. It brews coffee once, if you coffee with a distinct, thick texture. The prefer, but reheating it superfine grind, amount of heat, and grind- several times creates water ratio produces a full-flavored coffee. the distinctive thick texture. WHAT YOU NEED Handle • Very fine, powder-like coffee (see p39) The long handle requires some HOW IT WORKS precision. When pouring the coffee 1 Pour cold water into the ibrik, and bring into the cup, pour it to a boil over medium heat. slowly so that the foam does 2 Remove from the heat. not collapse. 3 Add coffee to the ibrik—1 teaspoon per Brew chamber cup—and any additional ingredients, It is traditional to mix if desired. sugar and spices in 4 Stir to dissolve and infuse the ingredients. with the ground coffee. 5 Return the ibrik to the stove and heat the See recipe, p169. coffee while stirring gently until it starts foaming. Do not allow to boil. 6 Remove from the heat and allow to cool for 1 minute. 7 Return to the heat and warm back up while stirring gently until it starts foaming. Again do not allow to boil. Repeat this. 8 Spoon a little foam into the serving cups and carefully pour the coffee in. 9 Let it settle for a couple of minutes, and serve. Take care to stop sipping when you reach the grounds in the bottom of the cup. CLEANING • Sponging Use a nonabrasive sponge or soft brush with some hot soapy water to hand wash the ibrik. • Care The tin lining might darken over time. This is normal so do not attempt to remove it.

138 SERVING VESSELS SERVING VESSELS The texture, shape, size, and design of the vessel you serve coffee in can affect your drinking experience. Many argue that certain cups, glasses, and mugs must be used for certain recipes—but it often comes down to personal preference. While some cups were designed to enhance would not slide around on the table, and the presentation of the beverage, such as the nearly indestructible, making them perfect espresso cup, others were designed with a more for use in the military during World War II. practical purpose in mind. For instance, the first American diner mugs were thick enough to retain Design aside, it is fun to try out different heat for a long time, rough at the bottom so they drinking vessels from time to time, to enhance both the presentation and experience. Small porcelain tumbler Espresso glass Cups without handles have The visual appeal of a modern appeal. Some espresso—with its dark prefer the comfort of a liquid and golden brown thicker rim when drinking crema—presents itself espresso. It is also perfect beautifully in a glass. It for many small-volume also retains heat well, but coffee beverages. take care, as it may become quite hot to touch. Demitasse espresso cup Large cup A soft, rounded interior allows the Sometimes it is okay to want a big cup of crema to land gently and retain its coffee—just choose a ceramic one that is texture, heat, and visual appeal. insulating enough to keep your beverage warm.

Earthenware cup SERVING VESSELS 139 Many like the sensory experience of earthenware Large mug on their lips. The material The good also retains heat well. old-fashioned diner mug feels heavy and comforting in the hand. A thick edge feels softer on the lips than a thin one. Medium glass Brandy snifter Perfect for a cold coffee, this is great The shape of the brandy snifter helps for serving a small latte too. Beware concentrate the aromas and entice your senses. Enjoy the aromas of a fruity as the glass can get quite hot. Kenyan syphon in a brandy snifter. Coupette Serve iced coffee in a frosted coupette to add an elegant twist to a coffee cocktail. Decorate the rim for added presentation value. Small bowl Around the world, many communities traditionally drink coffee served in small bowls at social gatherings. Large glass Latte glass Large bowl When you want a cold drink on Synonymous with caffè lattes, this Traditionally used a hot day, a large glass will hold as tall glass can showcase the pretty for café au lait, much ice as you need to keep it cool. beware that a large layers of any large coffee. surface area will cool your coffee quickly. Choose a thick, ceramic bowl to retain heat for as long as possible.



THE RECIPES

142 THE RECIPES CAPPUCCINO GEAR ESPRESSO DAIRY MILK TEMP HOT SERVES 2 Most Italians drink their cappuccino in the mornings, but this classic breakfast coffee has now been adopted as an all-day drink worldwide. For many fans, the cappuccino represents the most harmonious ratio of coffee to milk. WHAT DO I NEED? Equipment 2 medium cups espresso machine milk pitcher Ingredients 1/2–3/4oz (16–20g) fine ground coffee about 4–5fl oz (130–150ml) milk chocolate or cinnamon powder, optional 1 Warm your cups on top 2 Steam the milk to about TIP of your machine or by 140–150°F (60–65°C). heating them with hot water. Avoid scalding it. When the This recipe shows you how Using the technique on bottom of the pitcher is just to make two cups, but it is pp44–45, brew one shot/ too hot to touch, the milk is easy enough to make one—you 1fl oz (25ml) of espresso at a comfortable drinking can use a single basket and/or into each cup. temperature (see pp48–51). single spout portafilter. If all else fails, you could always treat a friend to the spare espresso!

THE CLASSICS 143 HAVING OUTGROWN ITS ORIGINS AS AN ITALIAN BREAKFAST DRINK, THE CAPPUCCINO IS NOW POPULAR ALL OVER THE WORLD 3 Pour the milk over each espresso, maintaining an area of crema around the rim of the cup so that the first sip will have a strong coffee flavor. Aim for a 1/2in (1cm) layer of foam. 4 Using a shaker or a mini sieve, sprinkle over some chocolate or cinnamon powder, if desired.

144 THE RECIPES CAFFÈ LATTE GEAR ESPRESSO DAIRY MILK TEMP HOT SERVES 1 The caffè latte is another classic Italian breakfast beverage. It is milder in taste and heavier on the milk than all the other espresso-based recipes. It is now popular all over the world and is enjoyed throughout the day. milk 1 Warm the glass on top of your machine or by heating it with espresso hot water. Using the technique on pp44–45, brew one shot/1 fl oz (25ml) of espresso into your glass. If your glass does not fit under the medium glass spouts, brew your shots into a small pitcher instead. 2 Steam about 7fl oz (210 ml) milk (see pp48–51) to about 140–150°F (60–65°C), or until the pitcher is just too hot to touch. 3 If your espresso has been poured into a small pitcher, pour it into the glass. Pour the milk over the coffee, holding the pitcher close to the cup and pouring with a gentle side-to-side rocking motion. If desired, create a tulip latte art design, as shown on p54. Aim for a 1⁄4in (5mm) layer of foam. SERVE IT UP Serve immediately, with a spoon to stir. If you prefer a latte to have a crisp white layer of foam on top, simply brew your espresso into a small pitcher, then pour your milk into the glass first, followed by the espresso. CHOOSE A COFFEE THAT ENDEDRECOMM HAS RICH COCOA OR NUTTY TONES TO COMPLEMENT THE COFFEE SWEETNESS OF STEAMED MILK BEANS



146 THE RECIPES FLAT WHITE GEAR ESPRESSO DAIRY MILK TEMP HOT SERVES 1 Originally from Australia and New Zealand, this recipe varies from region to region. The flat white is similar to a cappuccino, but has a stronger coffee flavor, less foam, and is usually served with elaborate latte art on top. milk 1 Warm the cup on top of your machine or by heating it with hot water. Using the technique on pp44–45, brew two shots/11⁄2fl oz (50ml) espresso of espresso into the cup. medium cup 2 Steam about 4fl oz (130ml) milk (see pp48–51) to about 140–150°F (60–65°C), or until the pitcher is just too hot to touch. 3 Pour the milk over the coffee, holding the pitcher close to the cup and pouring with a gentle side-to-side rocking motion, using the techniques on pp52–55. Aim for a 1⁄4in (5mm) layer of foam. SERVE IT UP Serve immediately—the longer the drink is sat waiting, the more likely it is that the milk will lose its glossy shine. TRY FRUITY OR NATURALLY ENDEDRECOMM PROCESSED COFFEES. COMBINED WITH MILK THEY BRING OUT COFFEE A FLAVOR REMINISCENT OF BEANS STRAWBERRY MILKSHAKE



148 THE RECIPES BREVE GEAR ESPRESSO DAIRY MILK TEMP HOT SERVES 2 The breve is an American take on the classic latte. A twist on typical espresso- based beverages, it replaces half the milk with half-and-half (ideally with about 15 percent fat content). Sweet and creamy, try it as an alternative to dessert. WHAT DO I NEED? Equipment 2 medium glasses or cups espresso machine milk pitcher Ingredients 1/2–3/4oz (16–20g) fine ground coffee 2fl oz (60ml) milk 2fl oz (60ml) half-and-half TIP 1 Warm the glasses or cups on top of your machine or by heating them with hot water. Steaming with cream Using the technique on pp44–45, brew one is a different experience. shot/1fl oz (25ml) of espresso into each glass. The sound while steaming a combination of milk and cream may be louder than when you steam pure milk, and will not result in as much foam.