Coffee Obsession

AS TINY POCKETS OF AIR AND MILK MATTERS 49 STEAM ARE ADDED TO THE MILK, YOU WILL HEAR GENTLE, TIP CONTROLLED SLURPING NOISES If you don’t want to waste a lot of milk to practice on, you can use water with a small drop of dishwashing liquid to mimic the process until you’re comfortable with the concept of adding air and spinning the milk in a controlled manner. 3 Hold the pitcher 4 If you’re right-handed, 5 The direction of the steam pressure level and upright. hold the handle of the should push the milk around in Position the steam pitcher in your right hand circles. The longer you maintain the arm inside the pitcher and use your left to turn the slurping noise, the more foam you will at an angle, slightly steam on. Don’t hesitate to generate. As the foam increases, it acts off-center but not turn it up quite high. If you as a sound buffer and reduces the noise. touching the sides. don’t use enough steam As the noise gets gentler, the bubbles The nozzle should be pressure, you won’t create get smaller creating a denser foam. only just submerged. any bubbles and the milk will make a loud, screeching TECHNIQUE CONTINUES sound. Move your left hand to the bottom of the steam pitcher. It will now function as your temperature gauge.

50 COFFEE KNOW–HOW STEAMING (continued) TIP Milk will taste sweet and can be enjoyed immediately when it is steamed to about 140–150°F (60–65°C). Any higher than that may result in a boiled oatmeal- like taste. 6 As the milk warms, it 7 Add air only while 8 Swirl the milk until the bottom expands and rises up the milk is still cold. of the pitcher becomes too hot to above the nozzle, cutting Once you feel the base touch. Move your left hand away, give off the air. For lots of foam, of the pitcher reach body the process another 3 seconds, and turn lower the pitcher so the temperature, stop adding the steam off. This should result in milk nozzle remains at the surface. air—any bubbles formed at about 140–150°F (60–65°C). If you For less, let the milk rise beyond about 99°F (37°C) hear a deep, rumbling noise, you are above the nozzle. Maintain are harder to mix into a boiling the milk and it will taste eggy the swirling of the liquid smooth foam. If you add or oatmeal-like, not ideal for coffee. and beat the big bubbles into air in as soon as the steam smaller bubbles to create is switched on, you should a smoother, denser foam. have plenty of time to create as much foam as you’d like.

MILK MATTERS 51 STORING MILK As long as the milk is fresh, it will produce foam with the right steaming technique. Even if the milk is within its “best before” date, the vital foam-stabilizing proteins may have degenerated to the point where they will struggle to aid in the formation of bubbles, so always go for milk with the most shelf-life left. Daylight is also damaging, so buy your milk in an opaque container, and keep refrigerated between use. 9 Set the pitcher down 1 0 Once the big bubbles 1 1 By swirling to keep the to the side. Use a stop appearing, swirl milk and foam mixed right damp cloth to clean the the milk around in the up until the point where you pour steam wand, and purge pitcher until you achieve a it into your cup, you will not need for a few seconds into the glossy, shiny texture of milk a spoon to get the foam out, and cloth to ensure that any and foam combined. If you with some practice, you will also milk residue on the inside are left with an “island” of be able to create latte art. of the wand is expelled. If dry foam floating around in there are any big bubbles the middle, gently slosh the on the surface of the milk, milk from side to side to try a few seconds of rest will to incorporate it, then swirl weaken them. Gently tap again in a circular motion. the jug on the countertop to burst them. TIP There is no need to move the milk pitcher vigorously at any stage. The force and direction of the steam should do all the work, so just keep a steady position and controlled angle of the steam arm and pitcher.

52 COFFEE KNOW–HOW LATTE ART Your milk must be smooth and have a dense foam, but it should look beautiful, too! Latte art takes practice, but once mastered, it’ll spruce up a cup of coffee. Many designs start with a basic heart, so start with that and see where it takes you. HEART This design suits a slightly thicker layer of milk foam and so is a good choice to try on cappuccinos. 2 Once the cup is about half full, quickly lower the pitcher down to the cup while maintaining your pour and its position in the middle. You should see a circle of milky foam start to spread out into the cup. 1 Start by pouring the 3 When the cup is nearly full, steamed milk into the lift your pitcher back up and middle of the crema from pour a line through the circle, about 2in (5cm) above the allowing the flow of the milk to cup, letting the crema rise pull it out into a heart shape. and stretch the “canvas.”

MILK MATTERS 53 POURING LIKE A PRO If you pour milk from too great a height, it lifts won’t get the movement you need to create a up the crema, leaving very little white on the pattern; if too fast, the crema and milk will mix surface. Conversely, if you pour the milk when uncontrollably. Practice pouring from a 16fl oz your pitcher is too close to the cup, it drowns the (500ml) pitcher into a large cup, until you find crema in white foam. If you pour too slowly, you the perfect balance between height and speed. ROSETTA Often seen on caffè lattes and flat whites, the rosetta works best with a slightly thinner foam. 2 Let the flow of milk spill out in a zigzag- like pattern. When your cup is nearly full, start moving the pitcher backward to create increasingly smaller zigzag shapes. 1 Follow step 1 for the 3 When you have finished heart, opposite, then creating your zigzags, once the cup is about half pour a line straight down full, quickly lower the pitcher the middle to finish, holding down to the cup. Start your pitcher from a little rocking it gently from side to more height. side in a “tick tock” motion.

54 COFFEE KNOW–HOW TIP SWIRL THE JUG CONTINUOUSLY, As well as free-pouring RIGHT UP TO THE POINT OF latte art designs like the heart, POURING, TO KEEP THE FOAM rosetta, and tulip, some enjoy AND MILK FROM SEPARATING etching. This involves creating designs, such as chasing hearts (pictured, far left), by pulling a thin utensil through dollops of milk foam. TULIP The tulip is an advanced version of the heart (see p52) that uses a stop- and-start technique. 1 Start as you would for 2 Stop your pour the heart, pouring a and start again 1⁄2in small circle of white into (1cm) behind the first the middle of the cup. pour, carefully moving the pitcher forward as the foam comes out, pushing the first circle forward and out to the sides in a crescent shape. 3 Repeat until you have as many “leaves” as you would like. Finish with a small heart on top, pulling the line down through the leaves to create the stem.

ELABORATE Adapt the basic designs to create (clockwise from top left): multi- tulips, chasing hearts, swans, rosetta hearts.



COFFEES OF THE WORLD AFRICA

58 COFFEES OF THE WORLD ETHIOPIA The complex mix of species and varieties that are native to Ethiopia gives these coffees their potential for unique flavors. They are famed for unusually distinct and elegant floral, herbal, and citrus notes. Ethiopia is often hailed as the Ethiopia has a biodiversity of UNRIPE COFFEE CHERRIES birthplace of Arabica coffee, species and varieties that is not When ripened (see pp16–17), although recent studies indicate that found elsewhere, with many yet coffee cherries are picked once, South Sudan may also have the right to be identified. Due to the mix twice, or three times a week. to claim this title. Ethiopia doesn’t of Heirloom varieties grown—such have a lot of coffee farms—they are as Moka and Geisha—coffee beans either referred to as garden, forest, from Ethiopia often lack uniformity semi-forest, or plantation—but in size and shape. around 15 million people are involved in the coffee-production Climate change is eradicating wild process, from picking to export. species of coffee trees that may hold Coffee grows wild, produced largely genetic keys to coffee’s survival. The by subsistence farmers, who sell huge genetic range of local Heirloom it only for a few months every year. varieties will be key to securing the future of coffee worldwide. ETHIOPIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE HARVEST: OF WORLD OCTOBER–DECEMBER 5%MARKET: MAIN TYPES: PROCESSES: ARABICA WASHED AND NATURAL NATIVE HEIRLOOM PRODUCTION IN 2012: 8 MILLION BAGSVARIETIES WORLD RANKING 5th LARGEST COFFEE PRODUCER AS A PRODUCER: IN THE WORLD

AFRICA 59 LEKEMPTI, ERITREA Washed HeirloomSe AFRICA WELLEGA, When sorted, shipped,Red AND GIMBI TIGRAY and roasted well, the flavor LIMU AND of Ethiopian Heirlooms is DJIMMAH These areas produce both unlike any other. washed and naturally Coffee from this area is processed coffees. The a normally exported as best selections are often “Limu” if washed, and fuller in texture, sweeter, “Djimmah” if naturally and wilder tasting than processed. Generally Sidamos and Yirgacheffes. milder than the coffees from Sidamo, there is SUDAN Danakil Dese still a wide range of qualities available here. Lake rt DJIBOUTI Tana Natural Heirloom AMARA AFAR Gulf of Well-dried, naturally Bahir Dar Aden processed Ethiopian coffees have an almost BINSHANGUL E T H I O P IA tropical fruit-like flavor. GUMUZ Dire Dawa SOMALIA LEKEMPTI, Ethiopian Grea HARAR WELLEGA, Highlands Val l e y ARSI Ripening coffee cherries BALE Not all cherries ripen at once, & GIMBI so pickers choose them by eye. SOUTH LIMU HARAR SUDAN GUJI ADDIS ABABA This region is dry, hot, GAMBELA ILLUBABOR and almost desertlike. HIZBOCH OROMO Rift Coffee produced here t SUMALE often has an earthy AMARO flavor. The most prized DJIMMAH beans have blueberry and fruity flavors, and KAMBATA nearly all Harar coffee is naturally processed. WELAYTA KAFFA Lake YIRGACHEFFE OROMIYA TEPI SOUTHERN Abaya SIDAMO BEBEKA BORENA Washed Geisha K E N YA Washed Moka Local Geishas have An unusual Heirloom floral, elegant flavors. SIDAMO variety, Moka beans are small and round. KEY The lush and green Sidamo area is varied in landscape. YIRGACHEFFE NOTABLE COFFEE- It produces coffees with PRODUCING REGIONS a wide range of complex This small area within the Sidamo flavors—sometimes fruity region grows some of the finest AREA OF PRODUCTION and citrus, sometimes Ethiopian coffees. They often have nutty and herbal. bright lemony notes and floral 0 km 200 characteristics, with a light texture and a well-balanced sweetness. 0 miles 200

60 COFFEES OF THE WORLD KENYA Kenya offers some of the most intensely aromatic, brightly acidic coffees in the world. Flavors from region to region vary subtly, but most feature uniquely complex fruit and berry notes, citrus acidity, and juicy, rich textures. Only around 330 farms in Kenya pp20–21); usually any smaller CHARACTERISTIC RED SOIL are estates of 37 acres (15 hectares) selections of naturally processed Kenya’s aluminum and iron-rich or more. Just over half of the coffee coffee cherries are consumed in red clay soil contributes to the producers are smallholders with Kenya. Once processed, most of the unique flavor of its coffee. only a couple of acres of land each. coffee beans are traded via a weekly These smallholders are grouped auction system, where exporters bid into factories that belong to on samples they tasted the previous cooperative societies, each factory week. Although this is still susceptible receiving coffee cherries from to swings of the commodity market, hundreds, to even a couple of prices at the auction reward the thousand, producers. best-quality coffees and thus provide incentives for producers to improve Kenya grows Arabica, specifically agricultural practices and the quality SL, K7, and Ruiru varieties. Most of their coffee. beans are washed for export (see KENYAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE OF WORLD 0.5%MARKET: LESS THAN E MAIN TYPES: HARVEST: ARABICA MAIN CROP OCTOBER–DECEMBER SMALL “FLY” CROP APRIL–JUNE SL 28, SL 34, K7, PROCESSES: LOCAL RUIRU 11, BATIAN WASHED, SOME Kenyans are studying NATURAL PROCESS a large quantity of wild WORLD RANKING T Arabica trees as well as smaller 22nd LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: PRODUCER IN THE WORLD numbers of eight other wild Rubiaceae species that have been found in the E C H N I QUMarsabit forest.

AFRICA 61 SOUTH Washed AA MARSABIT SUDAN Kenyan coffee beans are graded by size. AA is the largest and, Marsabit doesn’t grow enough often, the most complex. coffee to export, but it is the only area in Kenya where wild Rubiaceae has been found. AFRICA The study and conservation of the coffee gene pool in these forests will benefit coffee all over the world. Lake Chalbi ETHIOPIA MERU Turkana Desert Awara Plain On the eastern hills of EASTERN Mount Kenya, Meru has rich organic soils and MARSABIT moderate rainfall that sustain the growth of K7 and SL varieties. Wo y a m d e r o Plain GANDA RIFT VALLEY Great Rift Valley TRANS-NZOIA K MERU NORTH SOMALIAEASTERN U NAKURU NYERI ENYA Ngangerabeli BUNGOMA KIRINYAGA Plain WESTERN Kisumu Lake ABERDARE CENTRAL EMBU Victoria NYANZA Washed SL 28 KISII and SL 34 Most Kenyan MURUNGA beans are washed. NAIROBI A sign of this is the center, or “chaff” MACHAKOS that remains pale when roasted. Ya tta Pla tea NYERI u COAST KIRINYAGA Dominated by factories and TAITA INDIAN On the slopes of Mount cooperative societies and noted TAVETA OCEAN Kenya, the altitudes and for modest rainfall, the areas twice-yearly rainy season around Nyeri are famed for TANZANIA Mombasa of Kirinyaga are perfect their high-quality beans, for quality coffee. The largely of the SL varieties. most common varieties here are SL 28 and SL 34. KEY EMBU NOTABLE COFFEE- PRODUCING REGIONS With deep, red volcanic soils and two distinct rainy seasons, Embu is AREA OF PRODUCTION dominated by factories and societies that grow a mix of varieties. 0 km 150 Washed SL 28 and SL 34 AA Kenyan AA selections should 0 miles 150 look uniform and defect-free: not broken, faded, or discolored.

62 COFFEES OF THE WORLD TANZANIA Flavors of Tanzanian coffee can be split between the heavy-bodied, sweet, naturally processed Robustas and Arabicas near Lake Victoria, and the bright, citrus, berry-like washed Arabicas of the rest of the country. Coffee was introduced to Tanzania by Almost all of the beans are grown by CHERRY RIPENING Catholic missionaries in 1898. Today, smallholders on family farms. About Cherries ripen at different speeds. Tanzania grows some Robusta, but 450,000 families are involved in coffee Pickers return to the same tree the majority of the crop is Arabica— growing, and the industry as a whole several times to collect ripe ones. Bourbon, Kent, Nyassa, and the employs around 2.5 million people. famous Blue Mountain. It is prone to wild swings in production, from As with some other African 534,000 bags in 2011 to over countries, the coffee is sold at auction, 1 million bags in 2012. Around 20 but there is a “direct” window open percent of Tanzania’s export earnings for buyers who wish to buy from the come from coffee. Yield of fruit per exporters themselves. This window tree is low, adding to other growing allows higher-quality coffee to be challenges, such as low prices and a rewarded with higher prices, creating lack of training and equipment. a sustainable cycle of production in the long term. TANZANIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE HARVEST: OF WORLD ARABICA JULY–FEBRUARY 0.6%MARKET: ROBUSTA APRIL–DECEMBER MAIN TYPES: 70% ARABICA PROCESSES: BOURBON, KENT, NYASSA, ARABICA WASHED BLUE MOUNTAIN ROBUSTA NATURAL 30% ROBUSTA WORLD RANKING 18th LARGEST COFFEE PRODUCER AS A PRODUCER: IN THE WORLD

AFRICA 63 AFRICA KAGERA AND BUKOBA KILIMANJARO AND ARUSHA These areas to the very northwest, along Lake Victoria, produce The growers around the highlands Tanzania’s Robusta coffee, which of Mount Kilimanjaro have the is mostly naturally processed and volcanic soil and high altitude accounts for about 25 percent of needed for producing some of Tanzania’s total coffee production. the best East African coffees. UGANDA Lake Victoria K E N YA Natural Robusta Tanzanian Robustas are BUKOBA MARA small and round, with a straight center cut. Some have pointy tips. RWANDA KAGERA Mwanza Serengeti MWANZA Plain BURUNDI ARUSHA KILIMANJARO Robusta tree SHINYANGA Young Robusta trees grow under sunlight in Tanzania, displaying D KIGOMA Masai Steppe their large, broad leaves. USAMBA MOUNTAINS E Lak Kigoma M. MANYARA Tanga USAMBA eRTEanPg. aCnyOikNaG Great TABORA TANZANIA TANGA MOUNTAINS SINGIDA DODOMA These mountains are DODOMA part of the Eastern Zanzibar Arc. Two new species RUKWA of coffee were recently found here, O ift Dar es Salaam bringing the total R PWANI number of wild MBEYA Mafia Tanzanian coffee l species to sixteen— a V MOROGORO an excellent IRINGA discovery for study and conservation. le LINDI ZAMBIA y INDIAN OCEAN Bourbon, Kent, Lake Nyasa M A L AW I Blue Mountain A mix of key RUVUMA Tanzanian varieties MTWARA lends complexity to coffee flavors. MBINGA Washed Kent KEY Kent is an Indian variety, now MBEYA M O Z A M B I Q U E planted throughout Tanzania. NOTABLE COFFEE- PRODUCING REGIONS This up-and-coming region is being RUVUMA AND MBINGA AREA OF PRODUCTION 0 km 200 driven forward by a younger generation The southern highlands have been of growers who are producing much of growing coffee for less than 50 years, 0 miles 200 the coffee from the region. and have a lot of potential for expansion.

64 COFFEES OF THE WORLD RWANDA NORTHERN PROVINCE The coffees from Rwanda are often some of the The citrus, stone fruit, and softest, sweetest, and most floral of East African caramel tones of the coffees coffees—delicately balanced and rapidly winning from the south of the Northern Province make these coffees balanced and sweet. UGANDA the hearts of coffee lovers worldwide. DEM. REP. The first coffee trees in Rwanda were planted CONGO BURERA in 1904, and export began around 1917. The VMirouunngtaains MUSANZE high altitudes and steady rainfalls mean V a the potential for quality is very high. ll RUBAVU NYABIHU RULINDO About half of the country’s export e Gisenyi y GAKENKE revenue now comes from the coffee industry, so coffee has recently become NORTHERN a vehicle for the government to improve PROVINCE socio-economic conditions. There has been an explosion in the number of RWANDA washing stations built throughout Rift RUTSIRO NGORORERO the country, giving the 500,000 smallholdings easier access to NYARUGENGE resources and training. Lake MUHANGA KAMONYI Kivu One of the challenges for WESTERN KARONGI Rwandan coffee is the “potato” PROVINCE Gitarama defect—a bacteria that can cause at Central Plateau the occasional bean to smell and SOUTHERN RUHANGO PROVINCE taste like raw potato. However, the dominance of old Bourbon Gre trees and the combination of high altitudes and rich soil ensure that NYANZA Rwandan beans are still some of the best NYAMASHEKE NYAMAGABE on the market. Cyangugu RUSIZI HUYE WESTERN PROVINCE Washed Bourbon KIVU Butare Light-roasted Rwandan NYARUGURU GISAGARA The districts along Lake Kivu coffees have enticingly are home to some of the most sweet aromas. BURUNDI famed washing stations in Rwanda, consistently producing complex, floral, elegant, juicy coffees of the highest quality.

AFRICA 65 RWANDAN COFFEE KEY FACTS AFRICA 0.2%PERCENTAGE HARVEST: TA OF WORLD ARABICA MARKET: MARCH–AUGUST MAIN TYPES: ROBUSTA NYAGATARE NZANIA 99% ARABICA MAY–JUNE BOURBON, CATURRA, PROCESSES: CATUAI WASHED, 1% ROBUSTA SOME NATURAL GATSIBO 32nd LARGESTWORLDRANKING Eastern AS A PRODUCER: Plain PRODUCER IN THE WORLD GICUMBI KAYONZA Lake Ihema GASABO Kabuga EASTERN PROVINCE KICUKIRO RWAMAGANA Lake Cyambwe NGOMA BUGESERA KIREHE Washed Catuai Rwandan soil enhances the floral and stone-fruit flavors of varieties such as Catuai—apparent after roasting. Lake EASTERN PROVINCE Unripe Arabica cherries Rweru When these ripen, Rwandan pickers The southeast corner of Rwanda gather each cherry by hand. SOUTHERN is home to a small number of PROVINCE washing stations and farms that KEY are slowly gaining a reputation The higher elevations for coffees with rich chocolate NOTABLE COFFEE- of Rwanda’s southern and forest-fruit notes. PRODUCING REGIONS province produces coffees with classic floral Washed Bourbon AREA OF PRODUCTION or citrus flavors and Rwanda has preserved most of its creamy textures—subtle old Bourbon variety, highly sought 0 km 20 and sweet. after by the specialty market. 0 miles 20

66 HOME ROASTING HOME ROASTING Roast your beans at home to get them to your preferred flavor. To do this, you can use an electric home roaster for a controlled approach, or simply heat a batch of coffee beans in a wok over your stove, stirring frequently. HOW TO ROAST as looks brown. Keep notes on both roasting process and flavor results, and you will soon Finding a balance between time, temperature, learn how to manipulate the roast as desired. and overall degree of roast can take some Aim for an overall roasting time of 10 to practice, but roasting is a fascinating and 20 minutes. Shorter than this, and the coffee satisfying route to understanding more about might be green and taste astringent. Longer the potential flavors of coffee. Keeping within than this, and it might taste flat and hollow. certain parameters, you should be able to If you buy an electric home roaster, follow experiment and taste until you find a method that your manufacturer’s instructions. works for your beans. There is no one-way-fits-all recipe to roasting coffee that tastes good, as well THE STAGES OF THE ROAST 6 MINUTES Coffee beans transform as they are roasted, increasing in size, smoothening, HIGH PRESSURE and eliciting a range of aromas. As the water in the bean 0 MINUTES UNROASTED heats up, steam pressure GREEN BEANS builds up within the structure and the color Before you roast, the raw continues to deepen. Some bean is green, and would beans turn a shade of brown have a vegetal flavor if it that makes them look nearly were used to brew coffee. done, but they should briefly pale a little once they reach the next vital stage of the roast, the first crack. 3 MINUTES DRYING PHASE The beginning of roasting is called the drying phase. Here, the bean turns from green through yellow, to light brown. This phase allows water to evaporate and acids to react and break down, removing the vegetal taste of the bean. The bean smells like popcorn or toast, and the color changes can make it look “wrinkled.”

HOME ROASTING 67 GREEN COFFEE BEANS If you start with fresh, high-quality green beans— ruin the flavor of the coffee beans, even if they readily available online or in specialty coffee are of the best quality. shops—you’ll soon be able to create home-roasted coffee to rival anything you would find on the There is no way to take old or low-quality high street. You need to be prepared to try again green coffee and make it taste great. All you can and again—there is a high chance that you may do is roast the beans so dark that you cover up the flat, wooden, baggy taste with burnt flavors. TIP 13 MINUTES Once you are happy with ROASTING PHASE the roast, cool the beans down for 2–4 minutes and give them Sugars, acids, and compounds a day or two to de-gas before react, developing flavors. Acids break down, the sugars caramelize, you use them. If you are and the cell structure dries brewing espresso, allow more out and weakens. time—about 1 week— 16 MINUTES for this stage. SECOND CRACK 9 MINUTES Eventually you reach a second crack, FIRST CRACK caused by gas pressure, and oils will be forced to the surface of the brittle The force of the steam eventually causes bean. Many espressos are roasted the cell structure to rupture, making a to the beginning or middle of the sound a bit like popcorn popping. This second crack. is where the bean increases in size, gains a smoother surface and an even color, and starts to smell like coffee. Stop the roast 1–2 minutes after the first crack for filter or French press brewing. 20 MINUTES BEYOND SECOND CRACK You have little left of the original flavor of the coffee in the bean. It will mostly be dominated by roasty, ashy, and bitter tastes. As oils travel to the surface, they also oxidize and become harsh-tasting quite quickly.

68 COFFEES OF THE WORLD BURUNDI Producing coffees that range from soft, floral, and sweetly citrus to chocolatey and nutty, Burundi offers few distinct regional flavor profiles, but its diverse coffees capture interest from specialty companies. Burundi has been growing coffee organic as funds for chemical BOURBON CHERRIES only since the 1930s, and it has fertilizers or pesticides have not been Burundi grows mostly Bourbon, taken a while for its great coffees to available. There are about 600,000 which was introduced to Réunion get onto the radar of connoisseurs. smallholders with 200–300 trees each, Island by French missionaries. The coffee sector has struggled who normally also grow other food through political instability and crops or keep livestock. Growers climatic challenges, and being deliver to washing stations (see Local a landlocked country makes it Technique below). These stations are difficult to get coffee to buyers members of Sogestals—companies without quality suffering noticeably. who look after the transportation and commercial aspects. Robusta grows in some small pockets, but the majority of the crop Coffee suffers from the potato is Arabica—washed Bourbon, defect (see p64), but local research Jackson, or Mibirizi, grown largely aims to reduce the problem. BURUNDIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE OF WORLD 0.5%MARKET: LESS THAN HARVEST: EFEBRUARY–JUNE MAIN TYPES: PROCESS: 96% ARABICA WASHED BOURBON, JACKSON, MIBIRIZI LOCAL 4% ROBUSTA There are over WORLD RANKING 160 washing stations 31st LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: dotted around the hilly PRODUCER IN THE WORLD areas of Burundi. These stations wash the coffee beans in specialized tanks TE C (see p21). U HNI Q

AFRICA 69 KAYANZA Lake AFRICA Rweru The Kayanza region is located Washed in the north of Burundi, which KIRUNDO Bourbon is close to the border with Sweet and Rwanda. Coffee beans from citrus, Burundi here are traditionally of Bourbon is most very good quality. aromatic in light roasts. Washed Bourbon Bourbon trees have been left CANKUZO undisturbed here for decades. CIBITOKE RWANDA MUYINGA Muyinga Mugamba NGOZI Lake Tan g a nyika KAYANZA DEMCO. NRGEOP. BUBANZA KARUZI MUMIRWA KIRIMIRO BUJUMBURA MURAMVYA BURUNDI BUJUMBURA RUYIGI MWARO GITEGA BURURI RUTANA Flowering Arabica MAKAMBA Coffee trees flower in Burundi between June and August. MUMIRWA KEY KIRIMIRO This Sogestal lies NOTABLE COFFEE- Close to Gitega in the in the west, in the PRODUCING REGIONS center of the country, mountains of the areas covered by this Kumugaruro, AREA OF PRODUCTION Sogestal have washing southwest of Kibira stations at the highest National Park. altitude in Burundi. The high altitudes provide perfect 0 km 30 conditions for 0 miles 30 growing coffee.

70 COFFEES OF THE WORLD UGANDA AFRICA BUGISU Robusta is indigenous to Uganda, and still The small farms of Bugisu and grows wild in some places—little wonder Mount Elgon sit 5,250–6,200ft (1,600–1,900m) above sea level, and produce washed Arabicas with heavy textures and sweet and chocolatey flavors. that the country is the world’s second largest exporter of Robusta coffee. Nange ya Mountains Arabica was introduced in the early DCEOMN.GROE P. WEST NORTHERN 1900s, and most of it is now grown NILE Gulu on the foothills of Mount Elgon. Va l l e y About 3 million families rely on NORTHERN the coffee sector for income. Some REGION Arabica is produced, including Lira Typica and SL varieties. Natural Robusta UGANDA For both Arabica and Robusta, Ugandans call washed Albert new production and processing coffees “wugars,” and Lake Lake Kyoga practices increase coffee quality. naturally processed ft Robusta, generally thought of as coffees “drugars.” inferior to Arabica and traditionally i grown in lowland areas, grows here at heights of 4,900ft (1,500m). The R Mbale beans are also washed, not naturally EASTERN BUGISU processed (see pp20–21). As quality WESTERN improves, farmers reap the rewards REGION WESTERN of good agricultural practice. Great CENTRAL & Jinja K E N YA SOUTHWEST Mukono KAMPALA Kasese LAKE VICTORIA BASIN akweard Masaka Ed L Mbarara Lake Victoria UGANDAN COFFEE KEY FACTS TANZANIA PERCENTAGE HARVESTS: WESTERN LAKE VICTORIA OF WORLD ARABICA REGION BASIN OCTOBER–FEBRUARY 2%MARKET: ROBUSTA Snow-capped Mount Robusta grows well in ALL YEAR, PEAK IN Rwenzori in the west is loamy, clay-rich soils, so MAIN TYPES: NOVEMBER–FEBRUARY home to the naturally the area around the Lake PROCESSES: processed Arabicas of Victoria Basin is well 80% ROBUSTA WASHED AND NATURAL Uganda, known as suited. It also benefits “Drugars.” Coffees can from the high altitudes, 20% ARABICA be wine-like with fruity increasing acidity and notes and good acidity. adding complexity. TYPICA, SL 14, SL 28, KENT WORLD RANKING KEY 0 km 100 0 miles 100 11th LARGESTASAPRODUCER: NOTABLE COFFEE- PRODUCER IN THE WORLD PRODUCING REGIONS AREA OF PRODUCTION

AFRICA 71 MALAWI AFRICA TANZANIA MISUKU HILLS One of the world’s smallest MISUKU Karonga Located 5,500–6,500ft producers, Malawi is drawing HILLS (1,700–2,000m) above sea interest for its subtle, floral, level, this area produces East African coffees. NORTHERN some of the best coffee in the country. Close to the Songwe river, it benefits PHOKA HILLS from steady rainfall and stable temperatures. Coffee came to Malawi in ZAMBIA Lake Nyasa 1891, brought by the British. PHOKA HILLS Mzuzu NKHATA BAY Uniquely, the Arabica varieties NKHATA BAY HIGHLANDS here are predominantly Geisha In Livingstonia, between and Catimor, with some Agaro, the Nyika National Park HIGHLANDS To the southeast and Mundo Novo, Bourbon, and plateau and Chilamba VIPHYA southwest of Mzuzu, Blue Mountain. Kenyan SL 28 Bay, coffee grows on the the Nkhata Bay is also being planted to help to Phoka hills at altitudes NORTH Highlands stretch up invigorate the specialty sector. of about 5,500ft (1,700m) to 6,500ft (2,000m) above sea level. It SOUTHEAST above sea level, and Unlike other African produces sweet, subtly MZIMBA have a hot and rainy countries, many coffee trees floral, and elegant coffees. climate. Some coffees are grown on terraces to try to Kasunga taste very similar to combat soil erosion and retain those from Ethiopia. water. Malawi produces about CENTRAL MALAWI LILONGWE Chipoka 20,000 bags on average per year, and consumes very few of those internally. About 500,000 Washed Catimor Lake smallholders grow coffee. At high altitudes in Malombe MALAWIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS Malawi, Catimors gain ZOMBA Lake a pleasing acidity, Chilwa which comes through Zomba when roasted. SOUTHERN PERCENTAGE MAIN TYPES: CHIRADZULU MOZAMBIQUE OF WORLD HIGHLANDS ARABICA 0.01%MARKET: Blantyre AGARO, GEISHA, HARVEST: CATIMOR, MUNDO THYOLD NOVO, BOURBON, HIGHLANDS JUNE–OCTOBER BLUE MOUNTAIN, CATURRA KEY PROCESS: NOTABLE COFFEE- WASHED WORLD RANKING Washed Bourbon, PRODUCING REGIONS Geisha, Agaro AREA OF PRODUCTION 43rd LARGESTASAPRODUCER: The range of PRODUCER IN THE WORLD varieties in Malawi 0 km 100 attracts interest from speciality companies. 0 miles 100



COFFEES OF THE WORLD INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA

74 COFFEES OF THE WORLD INDIA Indian Arabica and Robusta are especially popular for espresso preparation, because they are heavy-bodied and low in acidity. There are some defined regional flavor attributes, and exporters are keen to discover more. Coffee in India is grown under shade, are smallholders. For almost a million ROBUSTA CHERRIES normally alongside other crops, such people, coffee is a livelihood. Harvest After harvest, Indian Robusta as pepper, cardamom, ginger, nuts, takes place twice a year for Robusta, beans are sometimes processed oranges, vanilla, bananas, mangoes, but this often varies by several weeks using the monsooned method. and jackfruits. At harvest, coffee depending on the climatic conditions. cherries are either washed, naturally processed, or “monsooned” (see In the last five years, production Local Technique, below)—a has averaged at just under 5 million method that is unique to India. bags per year. Around 80 percent of this is exported, but more and more Arabica grows here, including Indians choose to drink local coffee. Catimor, Kent, and S 795 varieties, but the majority of the crop is Traditional Indian filter coffee, Robusta. There are about 250,000 made from three-quarters coffee growers in India, nearly all of whom and one quarter chicory, is popular around the country. INDIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE HARVEST: OF WORLD ARABICA 3.5%MARKET: 60% ROBUSTAMAINTYPES: OCTOBER–FEBRUARY ROBUSTA JANUARY–MARCH 40% ARABICA PROCESSES: LOCAL CAUVERY/CATIMOR, KENT, S 795, SELECTIONS 4, NATURAL, WASHED, The unique monsooned 5B, 9, 10, SAN RAMON, CATURRA, DEVAMACHY SEMI-WASHED, AND MONSOONED processing method exposes coffee cherries to hot, humid weather and wind, making WORLD RANKING them swell, fade, 6th LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: and change in PRODUCER IN THE WORLD TE flavor. E C U HN I Q

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 75 ASIA Washed Kent The Kent variety was developed in India and later imported to East Africa. JAMMU & KASHMIR NORTHEAST REGIONS Amritsar HIMACHAL C HINA This northeast region is a new PRADESH area for coffee growth. It grows only 2 percent of India’s N PUNJAB production, all of it Arabica. PA KISTA UTTARAKHAND N E PA L Himalayas ARUNACHAL RMA Dese PRADESH ar HARYANA r t DELHI Delhi NEW DELHI SIKKIM BHUTAN BU h ASSAM NAGALAND T Jaipur Lucknow RAJASTHAN BIHAR MEGHALAYA UTTAR BANGLADESH PRADESH MANIPUR TRIPURA JHARKHAND MIZORAM GUJARAT WEST Ahmadabad BENGAL MADHYA PRADESH CHHATTISGARH Kolkata (Calcutta) INDIA Bay of Bengal DADRA & Nagpur NAGAR HAVELI DAMAN & DIU MAHARASHTRA Mumbai (Bombay) ODISHA A r aSbeiaa n ANDHRA Natural Robusta PRADESH India produces some Western Deccan Hyderabad of the highest-quality G Robusta in the world. KERALA KARNATAKA hats EASTERN REGIONS INDIAN Nearly 30 percent Ghats Eastern OCEAN Andhra Pradesh and Odisha are new areas of India’s coffee GOA of coffee plantation on the eastern coast, and grows in Kerala, KARNATAKA currently produce around 6 percent of the almost all of it country’s total output—all of it Arabica. Robusta. The main districts are Wayanad, Bangalore Travancore, and Palakkad, and the Chennai This region in southern India produces just over half famed monsooned (Madras) of all of India’s coffee, and 70 percent of it is Robusta. Malabar is historically The first coffee crop planted in the 17th century was on rooted in this area. TAMIL the Baba Budan Giri hill ranges in Chikkamagaluru. NADU KERALA SRI TAMIL NADU KEY LANKA Monsooned Malabar The state of Tamil Nadu produces NOTABLE COFFEE- Monsooned beans taste around 10 percent of India’s coffee, PRODUCING REGIONS somewhat wooden, both Arabica and Robusta, mainly in with low acidity and the Sheveroys/Servarauyan hills and AREA OF PRODUCTION a thick texture. around the Nilgiris and Kodaikanal. 0 km 300 0 miles 300

76 COFFEES OF THE WORLD SUMATRA Sumatra is the largest island within Indonesia. Coffees here can have wooden notes, heavy textures, low acidity, and flavors that range from earthy, cedary, and spicy, to fermented fruit, cocoa, herbs, leather, and tobacco. Indonesia produces mostly rustic- grown here. Producers often grow RIPE ROBUSTA FRUIT flavored Robusta and a small mixed plots of various trees, causing Sumatran Robusta trees grow proportion of Arabica. The first a lot of natural hybridization. predominantly in the central coffee plantations in Sumatra Water can be scarce, so smallholders and southern part of the island. appeared in 1888, and they are now mostly use the traditional Giling the largest producer of Indonesian Basah processing method (see Local Robusta, supplying around 75 Technique below), giving the coffee percent of the country’s total output. its blue-green color. Unfortunately, the method can cause damaged Of the Arabicas, Typica is still beans and defect taints. the most common. Some Bourbon, as well as S-line hybrids, Caturra, The quality of Indonesian Catimor, Hibrido de Timor (Tim coffees is inconsistent, and internal Tim), and Ethiopian lines called logistical challenges make it difficult Rambung and Abyssinia are also to source premium selections. SUMATRAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE HARVEST: OF WORLD OCTOBER–MARCH 7% (INDONESIA)MARKET: MAIN TYPES:AROUND PROCESSES: E 75% ROBUSTA GILING BASAHAND 25% ARABICA WASHED TYPICA, CATURRA, BOURBON, LOCAL S-LINE HYBRIDS, CATIMOR, TIM TIM The Giling Basah method involves pulping the coffee beans (see p20), leaving them to dry for a day or so, then hulling the WORLD RANKING AS A parchment off while the beans still 3rd LARGESTPRODUCER (INDONESIA): have a high moisture PRODUCER IN THE WORLD TE C content. U HNI Q

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 77 Banda Aceh Andaman ACEH INDONESIA Sea At the northern tip of Sumatra, Washed Longberry the areas around Gayo Mountain, This variety hails Takengon, and Lake Laut Tawar back to Ethiopia. are home to farms at 3,600–4,260ft The fruity notes (1,100–1,300m) above sea level. of the elongated beans are strong even ACEH Washed Rasuna when grown in Indonesia. Simeulue BMedan Strait of M Exporters are now willing to market varieties with their own SUMATERA a l a flavor profiles. Rasunas often show savory and fruity notes. UTARA cca MALAYSIA Lake Toba LINTONG LINTONG n RIAU LAMPUNG a Pekanbaru The coffee farms s At the southern around Lake Toba i INDONESIA tip of the island lie at 3,900–4,900ft r is one of the biggest (1,200–1,500m) above Sumatra Robusta-producing sea level. Production a regions in Sumatra, stretches from Lintong Padang with a well-suited Nihuta up to Sidikalang. Siberut n climate and altitudes This area grows some u of 1,300–2,300ft of Indonesia’s most o (400–700m) above prized Arabicas. M sea level. Mentawai Jambi SUMATERA BARAT JAMBI n i SUMATERA a t SELATAN Strait Palembang Washed Jantung s BENGKULU & Interest in Sumatran varieties has been on the increase recently. The Jantung often exhibits MANGKURAJA what many consider typical Indonesian flavors. (SOUTHWEST REGION) BENGKULU KEY SOUTHWEST REGION INDIAN LAMPUNG OCEAN Bandarlampung NOTABLE COFFEE- Bengkulu and Mangkuraja are PRODUCING REGIONS new areas of coffee production, where Giling Basah and AREA OF PRODUCTION naturally processed beans are prepared, resulting in heavy, 0 km 200 200 rustic-tasting Robustas. 0 miles

78 COFFEES OF THE WORLD SULAWESI Of all the islands in Indonesia, Sulawesi grows the most Arabica trees. Well-processed coffees display flavors of grapefruit, berries, nuts, and spices. Coffees often taste savory, and most have low acidity and thick texture. Sulawesi represents only about processing method, as used in RIPENING ROBUSTA 2 percent of Indonesia’s coffee Sumatra (see p76). This results in The small proportion of Robusta crop, with roughly 7,700 tons of coffee beans that display a hint of the trees in Sulawesi are mostly found Arabica produced per year. Some classic Indonesian dark-green color. in the northeastern areas. Robusta is also grown, but it is largely consumed in Sulawesi, rather than Some producers are starting to being exported. wash coffee beans (see pp20–21) in a similar way to Central America, Sulawesi has iron-rich soils and which helps to add value to their grows old Typica, S 795, and Jember product. Much of this development is varieties at very high altitudes. due to Japanese importers, who are Most of the farmers here are the biggest buyers and have invested smallholders—only about 5 percent heavily in the Sulawesian coffee of the crop comes from larger estates. industry to ensure high-quality Giling Basah is the traditional standards are met. SULAWESIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE OF WORLD 7% JULY–SEPTEMBERMARKET: AROUND HARVEST: (INDONESIA) MAIN TYPES: 95% ARABICA PROCESSES: TYPICA, S 795, JEMBER GILING BASAH AND WASHED 5% ROBUSTA WORLD RANKING AS A 3rd LARGEST COFFEEPRODUCER(INDONESIA): PRODUCER IN THE WORLD

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 79 INDONESIA Manado unouanmgaasn Pegunungan Paleleh Celebes SULAWESI Sea UTARA GORONTALO Gorontalo OPge g Gulf of To gian Molucca ENREKANG Tomini Islands Sea INDONESIA Balingara The Enrekang Regency Peleng lies south of Toraja. Palu The capital of this area Poso is Kalosi, and much of Pe gunungan Tak Pe gu n unga n the speciality coffee from this area carries r the name of this historical market town. a tarkaaists SULAWESI olekaju SULAWESI Banda slaanndgsga i BARAT TENGAH Sea M BI S Lake Poso TANA Sulawesi TORAJA Malunda Lake MAMASA Pe gu Towut i Polewali bu A nu n ga ki ENREKANG Malamala n MAMASA Bone Bay SULAWESI Kendari TENGGARA Wowoni Mamasa is a little- known coffee-producing region in the west. SULAWESI Washed Typica SELATAN The characteristics of these With clean Arabica trees, combined with local soil, affect the flavors of the coffee. qualities drawing Tu k a n g b e s i interest from specialty Muna Islands Buton buyers, Mamasa is sure to become a Makassar Kabaena household name. GOWA & SINJAL GOWA AND SINJAL Giling Basah Toraja KEY Giling Basah-processed beans South of Kalosi, these areas produce can be recognized by their NOTABLE COFFEE- less coffee. About 40 percent of it mossy, dark-green hue. PRODUCING REGIONS is Robusta. Sulawesi coffee exports are channeled through the Makassar TANA TORAJA AREA OF PRODUCTION port to the west of Gowa. The central highlands of Southern Sulawesi grow 0 km 100 some of the island’s best coffee, at altitudes of 0 miles 100 3,600–6,000ft (1,100–1,800m) above sea level. The coffee here is named after the local Toraja people.

80 COFFEES OF THE WORLD JAVA INDONESIA The island of Java offers few regional flavor profiles, but in general, coffees are low in acidity, nutty or earthy, and heavy-bodied. Some are aged for a rustic flavor. WEST HIGHLANDS New private plantings are taking place in Western Java. Experimental varieties such as Andung Sari, Sigararuntang, Kartika, and S-lines as well as Ateng, Jember, and very old Typica varieties grow here, and promise some exciting new beans. Strait Serang JAKARTA Sunda AROUND Tangerang JAKARTA Panaitan RAYA Island E Lake Jatiluhur BANTEN Bogor Cirebon J a v a S e a WEST Cianjur HIGHLANDS Bandung Brebes Tegal JAWA Pekalongan BARAT Sukabumi I NDONESIA JAWA Garut TENGAH Ciamis Ja v a CENTRAL Washed Arabica HIGHLANDS Javanese Arabicas are often large and smooth, with little Cilacap or no silverskin on the surface. JAVANESE COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE OF WORLD 7% 90% ROBUSTAMARKET: MAIN TYPES: (INDONESIA) HARVEST: 10% ARABICA LOCAL JUNE–OCTOBER ANDUNG SARI, S-LINES, Javans mainly use the KARTIKA, ATENG, PROCESS: SIGARARUNTANG, washed method. This decreases JEMBER, TYPICA WASHED the risk of taints or defects caused when the beans are WORLD RANKING AS A processed using the Giling 3rd LARGESTPRODUCER (INDONESIA): Basah method PRODUCER IN THE WORLD TE C (see p76). U HNI Q

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 81 Indonesia was the first non-African Most of the coffee grown in Java ROBUSTA CLUSTER country to cultivate coffee on a large today is Robusta, but it also grows Coffee cherries mature at different scale. It began in 1696 with the areas some varieties of Arabica, such as speeds—one of the reasons for around Jakarta, West Java. The first Ateng, Jember, and Typica. Coffee the long harvest period in Java. seedlings did not survive due to a is largely grown on government- flood, but in a second attempt three owned (PTP) plantations, centered years later, they took root. at the Ijen Plateau in Eastern Java. These state-owned plantations Production flourished until leaf produce washed coffees, cleaner rust killed most Typica trees in than many other Indonesian coffees. 1876, causing widespread planting New private plantings are taking of Robusta. New Arabica plantings place in Western Java, around did not occur until the 1950s, and Mount Pangalengan, making this still only represent about 10 percent area one to watch for the future. of Javanese coffee. Old Brown Java Beans that are over a year old decrease in value, but this coffee is an exception— valued for curiosity rather than flavor. Semarang Purwodadi i n s Madura Island u n t a Surabaya e n g M o K e n d Surakarta Jombang Bali Sea Yogyakarta YOGYAKARTA Madiun Kediri Pasuruan JAWA Probolinggo TIMUR Bali Strait Malang Bali EAST Jember HIGHLANDS Pruned Robusta trees EAST HIGHLANDS Washed Robusta KEY Javanese trees are sometimes allowed Often of high quality, with to grow high, but most are pruned The largest PTP plantations a clean, gently nutty taste, NOTABLE COFFEE- to help the pickers during harvest. are Blawan, Jampit, Pancoer, Javanese Robusta beans are PRODUCING REGIONS Kayumas, and Tugosari. popular in commercial espresso. Robusta is grown on several AREA OF PRODUCTION estates – Kaliselogiri and Satak being two of the most 0 km 50 well known. There are also some private estates, such as 0 miles 50 Kalibendo and Ayer Dingin, located at lower altitudes; these use the traditional Giling Basah method (see p76).

82 COFFEE Q&A COFFEE Q&A There are many mixed messages about coffee in the media, and it can be difficult to find information that relates to you—especially as caffeine affects us all in different ways. Here are reliable answers to common coffee queries. HOW ADDICTIVE Coffee is not considered IS COFFEE? a drug of dependence and any “withdrawal symptoms” can be alleviated by gently decreasing the daily consumption of coffee over a short period of time. IS COFFEE While coffee can have a diuretic 98% DEHYDRATING? effect, a cup of it consists of about WATER 98 percent water and as such is not dehydrating. Any loss of fluid is effectively offset by the intake itself. CAN DRINKING Coffee and its antioxidants— COFFEE BE GOOD caffeine and other organic FOR OUR HEALTH? compounds—have been shown to have positive effects on a wide range of health problems. CAN COFFEE Brain activity that controls IMPROVE memory and concentration LEVELS OF is boosted temporarily when CONCENTRATION? we drink coffee.

HOW DOES COFFEE Q&A 83 CAFFEINE KEEP Caffeine blocks a chemical called US AWAKE? adenosine from attaching to its receptors, which would normally make you feel sleepy. The blockage also triggers the production of adrenaline, increasing your feeling of alertness. WHAT EFFECT DOES CAFFEINE HAVE ON SPORTING DO DARK ROASTS ABILITY? The effects of moderate caffeine CONTAIN MORE intake can improve endurance in aerobic CAFFEINE? sports as well as performance in anaerobic exercises. It opens up your bronchial tubes, improving breathing, and releases sugar into your blood stream, directing it to muscles. Very dark roasts might actually contain less caffeine, and definitely won’t perk you up faster. WHY DON’T I You can desensitize yourself GET A CAFFEINE to the effects of caffeine by drinking coffee at the same time KICK? every day, so change your routine every now and then.

84 COFFEES OF THE WORLD PAPUA NEW GUINEA Coffees produced in Papua New Guinea have dense textures, low-to-medium acidity, and a range of herbal, wooden, and tropical- or tobacco-like flavors. Most coffee is grown in smallholder varieties. Two to three million people OCEANIA gardens, some in plantations, and a rely on coffee for their livelihoods. small percentage use a state program. Almost all the coffee is highland- There is great interest for all the grown washed Arabica, including coffee-growing provinces to plant Bourbon, Arusha, and Mundo Novo more trees and produce coffee of better quality. Vanimo EASTERN HIGHLANDS KEY Washed Mundo With high altitudes that reach Novo Peaberry NOTABLE COFFEE- 4,900–6,200ft (1,500–1,900m) These Peaberries (see PRODUCING REGIONS above sea level and the most rain, p16) have a wine-like, some of the best, most complex juicy character. AREA OF PRODUCTION coffees are found here. New SANDAUN Wewak Ireland NEW IRELAND 0 km 150 EAST SEPIK Karkar B i s m a r c k Rabaul 0 miles 150 Central Range MADANG Sea WEST NEW EAST Madang BRITAIN NEW BRITAIN NORTH ENGA & WESTERN Vitiaz Solomon Kimbe Sea S o SOLOMONS N e wHIGHLANDS Goroka Strait New Britain lomon Guinea CHIMBU MOROBE Bougainville Arawa Is l SOUTHERN EASTERN Lae Island a n HIGHLANDS HIGHLANDS d s Lake Murray GULF JIWAKA P A P U A N E W G U I N E A PNG COFFEE WESTERN Gulf of Papua uxD’EInstlraKencidarssitweainaLESS THAN0.7%PERCENTAGE Owe Washed Typica nMSOPtROaERnSTlBeNYyORRaPTnoHpgoEenRdeNtta MILNE BAY OF WORLD Bourbon Alotau MARKET: The Typica variety CENTRAL was one of the first MAIN TYPES: to grow in Papua Coral sea New Guinea. 95% ARABICA CHIMBU AND JIWAKA ENGA AND WESTERN OLD STRAINS OF TYPICA, BOURBON, HIGHLANDS With some of the highest-grown ARUSHA, BLUE MOUNTAIN, MUNDO NOVO coffee in Papua New Guinea at These relatively dry highlands, 5,250–6,200ft (1,600–1,900m) 5% ROBUSTA between 3,900 and 6,000ft (1,200 and above sea level, the best coffees 1,800m) above sea level, grow lower- are bright, with gentle fruity notes. HARVEST: APRIL–SEPTEMBER acidity beans with herbal, nutty notes. 17thWORLD RANKING AS A PRODUCER:

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 85 AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIAN COFFEE PERCENTAGE LESS THAN HARVEST: The flavor of Australian Arabicas is varied, JUNE– OCTOBER 0.01%but often nutty, chocolatey, and softly acidic, OF WORLD MARKET: ARABICAwith scope for sweetly citrus and fruity notes. MAIN TYPES: PROCESSES: WASHED, K7, CATUAI, MUNDO NOVO, PULPED, Arabica has grown here for producers also starting to TYPICA, BOURBON NATURAL 200 years, but the industry plant on Norfolk Island, has gone through highs and off the east coast. 50thmechanical harvesting in the varieties, such as the popular AS A PRODUCER: lows. With the move to Growers here plant new WORLD RANKING last 30 years, new farms have K7, Catuai, and Mundo been established to revive Novo, alongside old Typica THE ATHERTON HIGHLANDS the sector, with some and Bourbon. This region in far north Queensland Arafura produces about half of Australia’s Sea output. Most of the country’s big farms Washed Catuai Darwin can be found here. Coffees from here Australia sources are often sweet, chocolatey, and nutty. varieties, such as Catuai, Arnhem Gulf of that suit the climate. Land Carpentaria CENTRAL AND SOUTHWEST Kimberley NORTHERN Barkly Tableland Cape QUEENSLAND Plateau TERRITORY York Peninsula A smaller area, there are a THE ATHERTON Cairns HIGHLANDS G r eat Sa n G Townsville mix of a few small growers Des ert D and some large commercial operations here. Coffees d y r i vRe aiadtni tend to be mild, sweet, and low in acidity. AU STR ALIA ng ge Rockhampton Gibson Alice Springs Simpson Desert Desert QUEENSLAND CENTRAL & SOUTHWEST QUEENSLAND WESTERN Great Lake Eyre AUSTRALIA Victoria North Desert SOUTH AUSTRALIA G Brisbane r Darling Range Nullarbor Plain Lake NORTHERN Flinders RangesTorrens NEW SOUTH Great Dividing Range Perth Australian Bight WALES eat Adelaide NEW SOUTH Sydney Natural Bourbon WALES Natural processing suits areas in east CANBERRA Queensland with defined dry seasons. NORTHERN NEW VICTORIA AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY 600 SOUTH WALES KEY Melbourne 600 NOTABLE COFFEE- With colder weather and higher Bass Strait 0 km PRODUCING REGIONS altitudes, the coffee cherries ripen TASMANIA 0 miles slower. This intensifies flavors and, AREA OF PRODUCTION potentially, lowers caffeine levels. Hobart

86 COFFEES OF THE WORLD THAILAND MYANMAR CHIANG (BURMA) RAI Robustas dominate in Thailand, MAE HONG Chiang Mai SOUTHEAST but the best Arabicas show soft SON CHIANG LAMPANG ASIA textures, low acidity, and the MAI potential for pleasant floral notes. Tane Range Udon Thani Almost all of the coffee growing in NORTH Phitsanulok Thailand is Robusta. Most of it is naturally processed and used to make The small quantity of TAK instant coffee. In the 1970s, seeing Arabica here grows in the potential for higher-quality the northern regions, Nakhon Sawan Arabicas, farmers were encouraged at altitudes of 2,620– to plant trees, such as Caturra, 4,900ft (800–1,500m) THAILAND Naturally processed cherries Catuai, and Catimor. Unfortunately, above sea level. Arabicas Underripe, ripe, and overripe the follow-up on this was lacking, are generally washed coffee cherries are often and farmers had little incentive to to optimize the picked in one pass in Thailand. do anything with the trees. Interest premium prices they in Thai coffee has grown in recent fetch over Robusta. years, and investment helps farmers to produce high-quality coffee. Bilauktaung BANGKOK THAI COFFEE KEY FACTS Range 0.5%PERCENTAGE HARVEST: Isthmus of Kra Washed Arabica Peaberries Peaberry selections (see p16) are OF WORLD OCTOBER– sometimes separated out and sold on MARKET: MARCH their own, particularly in northern areas. MAIN TYPES: 98% ROBUSTA PROCESSES: CHUMPHON SOUTH 2% ARABICA NATURAL, RANONG Robusta grows well in the southern SOME regions, representing nearly all the CATURRA, CATUAI, WASHED coffee grown in the country. CATIMOR, GEISHA SURAT KEY WORLD RANKINGst THANI Nakhon Si NOTABLE COFFEE- 21 LARGESTASAPRODUCER: Thammarat PRODUCING REGIONS PHANG NA AREA OF PRODUCTION NAKON SI KRABI THAMMARAT PRODUCER IN THE WORLD 0 km 150 0 miles 150 Songkhla

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 87 VIETNAM CHINA There are some soft, sweet, So NORTHEAST SOUTHEAST n ASIA Li and nutty varieties here Hoàng ê that are of interest to HA NÔI Câm Pha the specialty market. NORTHWEST n RED Vietnam began to produce coffee CENTRAL COAST LAOS RIVER Hai Phong in 1857. In the early 1900s, after NORTH DELTA some political reforms, farmers boosted their coffee production to Mountains protect Thua Nam Ðinh CENTRAL capitalize on good market prices. Thien Hue, Quang Tri, Ha Over a 10-year period, Vietnam Tinh, Nghe An, and Thanh COAST SOUTH became the second-largest coffee Hoa from the monsoon producer in the world. As a result, winds, making it possible to Gulf of Some farmers around inferior Robustas flooded the expand plantings of Arabica. Tongking Quang Nam, Quang market, causing a low-price, M Ngai, Binh Dinh, Phu CENTRAL Yen, and Khanh Hoa WESTERN Vinh have started watering HIGHLANDS the trees during the dry A CENTRAL season to manipulate COAST flowering and get ripe n o n NORTH cherries at a beneficial u a time of year. n low-quality trend. Today, the it government aims for a balance mt a i The areas around Dak e Lak, Gia Lai, Kontum, and n s between supply and demand. Washed Arabica Lam Dong grow coffee at Đa Năng Robusta is the main crop, but The flavor profile of 1,650–2,300ft (500–700m) a little Arabica also grows. Vietnamese Arabica above sea level. They have VIETNAM is yet to be identified, hot days, cool nights, and as production is growing. wet and dry seasons. CENTRAL COAST SOUTH VIETNAMESE COFFEE KEY FACTS SOUTHEAST HARVEST: Around Dong Nai, Ba CAMBODIA Quy Nhon PERCENTAGE Ria-Vung tau, and Binh OF WORLD Phuoc, the fertile red CENTRAL soil and hot and humid WESTERN 14% OCTOBER–MARKET: weather help Robusta HIGHLANDS APRIL to thrive. Harvest is MAIN TYPES: in the dry season. Cam Ranh 95% ROBUSTA 5% ARABICA PROCESSES: SOUTHEAST CATIMOR, Hô Chi Minh NATURAL, CHARI (EXCELSA) SOME WASHED KEY WORLD RANKING NOTABLE COFFEE- PRODUCING REGIONS 2nd LARGESTASAPRODUCER: PRODUCER IN THE WORLD AREA OF PRODUCTION 0 km 150 0 miles 150

88 COFFEES OF THE WORLD CHINA YUNNAN PROVINCE ASIA Chinese coffees are generally soft The Pu’er, Kunming, Lincang Wenshan, and Washed Typica and sweet, with delicate acidity Dehong regions grow 95 percent of Chinese China’s Typica is and nutty flavors that can cross coffees. Most are Catimor, while some old often sweet, over into caramel and chocolate. Bourbon and Typica can still be found in structured, and the Baoshan prefecture. Coffees are mostly medium-bodied. low-acidic, nutty, or cereal-like in taste. Coffee has been growing in China Shanghai since 1887, when it was brought Hengduan Shan Sichuan to Yunnan by missionaries. It Pendi took another century before the government focused efforts on SICHUAN G ao yuan Changsha Nanchang ZHEJIANG its production. New measures Yu n g u i G UIZHOU HUNAN JIANGXI have improved practices and conditions, helping total coffee Guiyang Kunming CH INA Fuzhou FUJIAN production to grow by about YUNNAN GUANGXI ZHUANGZU GUANGDONG Taiwan 15 percent every year. While the ZIZHIQU Guangzhou per capita is currently only 2–3 Nanning cups a year, this is also increasing. BURMA VIETNAM Hong Kong Arabica varieties grown here (MYANMAR) LAOS South China Sea include Catimor and Typica. Hainan Haikou Dao HAINAN CHINESE COFFEE KEY FACTS HAINAN ISLAND Washed Catimor This is the most 0.5%PERCENTAGE HARVEST: Off the south coast of China, widespread variety the island of Hainan grows grown in China. OF WORLD NOVEMBER– about 1⁄3–1⁄2 ton (300–400kg) MARKET: of Robusta annually, and FUJIAN PROVINCE APRIL while production is in MAIN TYPES: decline, coffee culture is very The coastal province strong among the people across from Taiwan is 95% ARABICA PROCESSES: here. The coffee is often mild, a large producer of tea, woody, and heavy-bodied. but some Robusta coffee is grown here, making CATIMOR, BOURBON, WASHED up a small percentage TYPICA AND of China’s total output. Robustas are typically low in acidity and full-bodied. 5% ROBUSTA NATURAL KEY WORLD RANKING NOTABLE COFFEE- PRODUCING REGIONS 20th LARGESTASAPRODUCER: PRODUCER AREA OF PRODUCTION Drying coffee cherries 0 km 400 It is not uncommon for families to dry cherries outside their 0 miles 400 homes, both to sell and consume.

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 89 YEMEN HARAZI MATARI ASIA Some of the most interesting Half way to the Immediately to the west Arabicas in the world grow in coast from Sana’a, of Sana’a on the way to Yemen, with “wild” flavors of the Jabal Haraz the port in Hodeidah, spice, earth, fruits, and tobacco. mountain range is the area producing home to the Harazi Matari coffee lies at coffee growers, who a high altitude and is produce classically known to produce some complex, fruity, of the more acidic wine-like coffees. Yemeni coffees. E m p t y Q u a r t e r OMAN Coffee grew in Yemen long SAUDI ARABIA before it reached any other Al Mahrah country outside of Africa. DRahammlat The small town of Mocha was the first port to establish commerical export. Red Coffee still grows wild in MATARI YEMEN some places, but the main cultivated areas grow old HARAZI SANA’A as Sab‘a ta yn amaut Typica and old Ethiopian Ha strains. Varieties often share SeaHodeidah ISMAILI Ramlat r Al Mukalla the same name as regions, DHAMARI d h making it difficult to trace Ta‘izz of Aden Ripening coffee cherries and identify them. Aden Yemeni coffees are often allowed to overripen and Gulf YEMENI COFFEE KEY FACTS DHAMARI dry up on the branches. PERCENTAGE LOCAL South of Sana’a, the ISMAILI OF WORLD western districts of Growing and processing has the Dhamar governorate Named after a group of 0.1%MARKET: produce coffees that Muslims that settled in remained unchanged for the past have classic Yemeni the area around Hutayb, MAIN TYPES: traits, but are often Ismaili is both the name ARABICA 800 years, and chemical use is softer and rounder than of a local variety and the TYPICA, HEIRLOOM the western coffees. general area, producing HARVEST: uncommon. Due to the lack of some of the more rustic Yemeni coffees. JUNE–DECEMBER water, coffees are naturally T E PROCESS: processed, and can E C H N I QUlook irregular. NATURAL Natural Heirloom Unknown Heirloom WORLD RANKING varieties are naturally KEY processed here, adding 33rd LARGESTASAPRODUCER: a unique local character. PRODUCER 0 km 150 NOTABLE COFFEE- 0 miles 150 PRODUCING REGIONS AREA OF PRODUCTION



COFFEES OF THE WORLD SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA

92 COFFEES OF THE WORLD BRAZIL Brazil is the world’s largest producer of coffee. Regional differences are difficult to distinguish, but it is widely accepted that Brazil produces soft-washed Arabicas and sweet naturals with mild acidity and medium texture. In 1920, Brazil produced about Brazil’s coffee—enough to rival PRECISE PLANTINGS 80 percent of all the coffee grown the output of Vietnam, the second Neat rows of trees on flat terrain in the world. As other countries largest producer in the world. help farmers to machine harvest—a increased their production, When Brazil has a peak or slump key part of Brazil’s farming system. Brazil’s market share decreased in production, it sends ripples to the current 35 percent, but through the market and affects the it remains the largest producer livelihoods of millions—the price worldwide. It mainly grows we all pay for our cup of coffee. Arabica—Mundo Novo and Icatu varieties, among others. Today, there are about 300,000 farms across the country, ranging After the devastating frost of in size from an acre to more than 1975, many farmers established new 25,000 acres (1–10,000 hectares). plantations in Minas Gerais, which Brazil consumes about half of all now alone produces nearly half of the coffee it produces. BRAZILIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE MAIN TYPES: OF WORLD 80% ARABICA 35%MARKET: PROCESSES: BOURBON, CATUAI, ACAIA, MUNDO NOVO, ICATU NATURAL, PULPED NATURAL, SEMI WASHED, 20% ROBUSTA LOCAL HARVEST: Much of the coffee- AND FULLY WASHED MAY–SEPTEMBER producing process in Brazil is heavily mechanized, and unlike many countries, WORLD RANKING T they have a practice ofE LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: harvesting first and PRODUCER IN THE WORLD E C H N I QUsorting later.

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 93 Pulped Natural Icatu ESPÍRITO Developed here, the Icatu is a SANTO Robusta cross—so is quite hardy. The second largest SOUTH ZUE L A u G U YA N A SURINAME FRENCH BAHIA coffee state, 80 AMERICA G H GUIANA percent of the i a Some of the best Arabicas coffee is Robusta. OMBIA E n ighlands (to France) in Bahia come from Some Arabica can COL a Chapada Diamantina and be found south of VEN AMAPÁ Planalto. Producers south the region at higher Boa Vista of the region grow Robusta altitudes of 3,900ft on large mechanical farms. (1,200m) above RORAIMA sea level. Belém Planalto Balbina Maracanaquará Reservoir Manaus Tucuruí Fortaleza Reservoir Pulped Natural Catuai AMAZONAS PARÁ MARANHÃO CEARÁ TOCANTINS PIAUÍ The pulped-natural process Amazon Basin RIO GRANDE combines the sweetness of a L DO NORTE natural with the cleanliness RAZI of a washed coffee. PARAÍBA PERNAMBUCO Recife Porto Velho PERU ACRE RONDÔNIA B ALAGOAS SERGIPE BOLIVIA MATO GROSSO Salvador Black Honey BAHIA Yellow Icatu A light roast highlights Planalto de BRASÍLIA DISTRITO Pulped Natural nutty tones in these Mato Grosso Mundo Novo Brazilian beans. This Brazilian GOIÁS FEDERAL Bourbon–Typica cross is growing Brazilian Highlands in popularity. Pantanal MINAS GERAIS MATAS DE MINAS Campo Grande Belo Horizonte ESPÍRITO MATO GROSSO DO SUL SANTO SUL DE MINAS RIO DE JANEIRO SÃO PAULO SAO PAULO CERRADO Itaipú CERRADO Rio STATE Reservoir São Paulo de Janeiro Mogiana is the PARANÁ MATAS DE MINAS best-known coffee The flat landscape of ARGENT SANTA CATARINA About half of the farms in this region in Sao Paulo Cerrado lends itself to mountainous region are small estates state, and being mechanized harvesting, INA that harvest annually. At altitudes up to relatively dry, a and 90 percent of the 3,900 ft (1,200m) above sea level, coffee lot of naturally coffee here is from large RIO GRANDE grows at cooler temperatures and is processed Arabicas estates that naturally DO SUL strong and sweet with medium acidity. come from here. process the beans. Porto Alegre KEY URUG SUL DE MINAS NOTABLE COFFEE- UAY The cool, high altitudes of this region (up to PRODUCING REGIONS 0 km 500 5,250ft/1,600m above sea level) give the coffee 0 miles 500 a citrus, floral quality that encourages many AREA OF PRODUCTION to claim that this is the best coffee in Brazil.

94 COFFEES OF THE WORLD COLOMBIA Colombian coffees are generally rich and full bodied. They span a vast range of flavor attributes—from sweet, nutty, and chocolatey to floral, fruity, and almost tropical. Each region offers a distinct profile. The mountains of Colombia create October to November. Two million DRYING BEANS an abundance of microclimates that Colombians rely on coffee for their Beans usually dry on concrete, but bring out potentially unique qualities livelihoods. Most of these people where terrain is too steep, workers in the coffee. All of the coffee is work for a group of small farms, but choose to dry them on rooftops. Arabica—including Typica and about 560,000 of them are producers Bourbon varieties—and traditionally who have only 2–41⁄2 acres (1–2 washed, and there are one or hectares) of land. In recent years, two harvests a year depending the specialty industry has gained on the region. Some harvest the access to work with small farmers coffee cherries just from September individually, buying small volumes to December, with another smaller and paying more for quality crops. harvest in April or May. Others harvest their main crop from March More and more Colombians drink to June, and gain another crop from Colombian coffee—around 20 percent of the total coffee production. COLOMBIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS PERCENTAGE CHALLENGES: OF WORLD CONTROLLED DRYING, FINANCE, SOIL 6%MARKET: EROSION, CLIMATE CHANGE, LACK MAIN TYPES: OF WATER, LACK OF SECURITY ARABICA TYPICA, BOURBON, TABI, HARVESTS: CATURRA, COLOMBIA, MARCH–JUNE AND SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER LOCAL PROCESS: Most farmers have their own MARAGOGIPE, CASTILLO WASHED wet-milling facilities and so can control the drying process (see pp20–21). Raised beds are now WORLD RANKING popular—these help producers 4th LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: to turn beans easily PRODUCER IN THE WORLD TE as they dry. E C U HNI Q

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 95 SOUTH Caribbean LA GUAJIRA SANTANDER AMERICA Sea One of the Washed Caturra northernmost regions, Light-to-medium Barranquilla Santander and Norte roasts highlight the de Santander grow citrus notes of many ATLÁNTICO VENEZUELA 9 percent of the Colombian coffees. MAGDALENA Colombian coffee, CESAR most of it under shade and at lower altitudes, SUCRE resulting in softer, Colombian coffee farm CÓRDOBA BOLÍVAR NORTE DE earthier coffees with Neatly planted in rows, low acidity. Colombian coffee farms are SANTANDER often very well managed. CAUCA ANTIOQUIA SANTANDER ARAUCA Medellín The best-known municipalities in CASANARE o s n Cauca are Inza and CHOCÓ CALDAS BOYACÁ Popayan, and, as a la RISARALDA L VICHADA whole, the department CUNDINAMARCA produces 8 percent QUINDÍO BOGOTÁ of Colombia’s coffee, VALLE DEL known to be sweet CAUCA and light, with floral TOLIMA COLOMBI A and berry notes. Cali HUILA META Washed Tekisik Originally from GUAINÍA El Salvador, Tekisik is gaining PACIFIC CAUCA S popularity here. OCEAN E GUAVIARE NARIÑO D EC UAD N PUTUMAYO TOLIMA CAQUETÁ VAUPÉS NARIÑO Known to supply soft, O R A sweet coffees with The southernmost of the AMAZONAS occasional light and coffee-growing departments, balanced floral notes, Nariño has gained a reputation BRAZIL the Department of for its smooth, creamy coffee, Tolima represents about with stone-fruit overtones, 12 percent of Colombian though it grows only 3 percent coffee production. of Colombia’s coffee. HUILA P E RU KEY Washed Caturra and Bourbon 12 percent of the coffees from NOTABLE COFFEE- Both Bourbon and the more Colombia come from the mountains PRODUCING REGIONS compact Caturra thrive in the in Huila, a region that many hail as Colombian climate, where most the best in the country. The coffees AREA OF PRODUCTION farmers grow a mix of varieties. are often fruity, high in acidity, with a dense texture and a complex flavor. 0 km 200 0 miles 200

96 COFFEES OF THE WORLD BOLIVIA There are few known regional flavor profiles in Bolivia, but coffees can be sweet and balanced, floral and herbal, or creamy and chocolatey. It is a small coffee-producer with the potential to grow stunning varieties. With a coffee culture that includes education and new processing facilities GROWING AND HARVEST around 23,000 small, family-run near growing regions have improved A lot of Bolivian coffee is organic farms of 5–20 acres (2–9 hectares) quality, and exporters are starting by default, as growers have little each, Bolivia consumes around 40 to explore international markets. or no funds for chemicals. percent of the coffee it produces. Bolivia mainly grows Arabica Bolivian coffees have only recently varieties, such as Typica, Caturra, captured the interest of specialty and Catuai. Coffee grows organically buyers, as internal challenges of almost everywhere. Main regions transportation, processing, and lack of production are La Paz provinces, of technical support make quality such as North and South Yungas, unpredictable. Most coffee for Franz Tamayo, Caranavi, Inquisivi, export is shipped out via Peru, as and Larecaja. Harvest times vary, Bolivia is landlocked, adding to its as they depend on altitudes, rainfall logistical challenges. Investment in patterns, and temperatures. BOLIVIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS LESS THANPERCENTAGE PROCESSES: OF WORLD WASHED, SOME NATURAL 0.1%MARKET: HARVEST: MAIN TYPES: JULY–NOVEMBER ARABICA CHALLENGES: TYPICA, CATURRA, CRIOLLO, CATUAI, CATIMOR UNRELIABLE TRANSPORTATION, LACK OF PROCESSING EQUIPMENT, AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT WORLD RANKING 35th LARGEST COFFEE PRODUCER AS A PRODUCER: IN THE WORLD

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 97 SOUTH YUNGAS EL BENI AMERICA These traditional coffee-growing In the northeast is Bolivia’s Riberalta areas in La Paz range from second largest department. PANDO 3,600–6,200ft (1,100–1,900m) Most of it is lowland, but above sea level and represent 90 some coffee trees can be percent of Bolivian production. found in the Serrania Eva Eva Harvest here runs from March and Cerro Pelado mountains to September. near the border with La Paz. BRAZIL PERU Washed Typica Typica beans are sometimes known as “Arabigo” in Bolivia. YUNGAS Cord CARANAVI Lake illera Titicaca EL BENI LA PAZ O r LA PAZ i e Y u B O L I V I A A n t a l ng as SANTA CRUZ lN Cochabamba p COCHABAMBA i t Oruro Santa Cruz A Roasted Yellow Caturra Lake Bolivian beans can often CHILE lano SUCRE withstand a dark roast, but Poopó sweetness shines through ORURO when roasted lightly. Potosí DES POTOSÍ PARAGUAY CARANAVI TARIJA Washed Catuai When roasted lightly, This is a relatively some Bolivian Catuais new coffee-growing have fruit and berry notes. region in La Paz. Harvest is from March ARGENTINA KEY to October in altitudes of 2,620–4,590ft SANTA CRUZ NOTABLE COFFEE- (800–1,400m) above sea level, PRODUCING REGIONS and from May to December The largest department in Bolivia is easterly Santa Cruz, in altitudes of 3,280–6,000ft bordering Brazil and Paraguay. Coffee here generally AREA OF PRODUCTION (1,000–1,800m) above sea level. grows at lower altitudes around Samaipata and Mairana, and is usually of a commercial grade. 0 km 200 0 miles 200

98 COFFEES OF THE WORLD PERU SOUTH COLO NORTHERN AMERICA A small number of well-textured, MBIA About 70 percent of balanced coffees with earthy, ECUADOR Peruvian coffee comes herbal notes are produced in Peru. from the north, where new Arabica is planted. Most coffee is organic. Despite its high-quality TUMBES Iquitos coffees, Peru faces problems of LORETO inconsistent standards. A major cause is the lack of internal PIURA AMAZONAS logistics, but the government continues to invest in education LAMBAYEQUE NORTHERN and infrastructure, such as roads, as well as in new growing CAJAMARCA areas—especially in the north, where new Arabica is grown. CENTRAL SAN MARTÍN U BRAZIL Washed Caturra LA LIBERTAD When well processed, Peru mainly grows varieties High altitudes of roasted Peruvian beans of Arabica, such as Typica, 3,900–6,560ft (1,200– P E RTrujillo are clean and sweet. Bourbon, and Caturra. Around 90 percent of the 2,000m) above sea level ANCASH coffee is grown on around produce largely organic HUÁNUCO 120,000 small farms, most of them cultivating approximately coffees with soft acidity and PASCO UCAYALI 5 acres (2 hectares) each. well-structured textures. C CENTRAL Washed Caturra, CALLAO A JUNÍN Co MADRE Typica, Bourbon LIMAord DE DIOS CUSCO i ra l r N d i l ler l While normally grown and a e sold as a mix, if Peruvian D Orien BOLIVIA Oc OUTHERN c varieties were separated out i d E nt e A P URÍMAC t CUCHO it could add significant value. ICA alS S a l AYA PUNO PERUVIAN COFFEE AREQUIPA Arequipa PERCENTAGE MAIN TYPES: Lake OF WORLD MOQUEGUA Titicaca ARABICA 3%MARKET: TACNA TYPICA, BOURBON, HARVEST: CATURRA, PACHE, SOUTHERN CHILE CATIMOR MAY–SEPTEMBER This is the smallest coffee- growing region in Peru. Most of PROCESS: the coffees are sold in bulk or through cooperatives, making WASHED it difficult to trace them. KEY WORLD RANKING AS A PRODUCER: NOTABLE COFFEE- PRODUCING REGIONS 9th LARGEST COFFEE PRODUCER IN THE WORLD AREA OF PRODUCTION 0 km 300 0 miles 300