Australian Gourmet Traveller (February 2020)

There’s more to seafood than fillets of fish. Cast your net wider and choosesustainable species that ensure long-term vitality and ocean wellbeing.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 102The creatures that dwell within our oceans area valuable, evolving, and in parts, a depletingresource. Seafood is extraordinarily diverse,doubling as a healthy protein and also anindulgent luxury. The key to good seafood is notjust flavour and texture, but also ensuring that it’ssourced with minimal impact on the environment– it’s important that it tastes good, but also helpsto preserve our oceans for future generations.So what is sustainable seafood? Sascha Rust ofGood Fish – a data-informed, consumer guide forbuying and eating seafood – explains: “It comesdown to having an environment-first perspectiveand considering the ecosystem, and the relationshipsand health of all those different components.“The real questions people need to ask are verysimple: ‘Where was this fish caught? And how wasit caught?’ The next question is, ‘Is it sustainable?’If your fishmonger can answer all of these things, then you should be in a pretty good space.”So dive in, chat to your fishmonger, andhook into the Good Fish guide to continue seeking the best from and for our oceans. goodfish.org.auPipis stir-friedwith Australianapera, garlicand celeryLOBSTEREastern, tropical and western wild-caught rock lobsters are the bestvarieties to look out for. Southernrock lobster stocks have depletedin recent years, so it’s betterto eat less of this variety.PIPIS & VONGOLEOne of the safest bets when it comesto sustainable seafood is shellfish –pipis and vongole are hand-collectedor raked in New South Wales andSouth Australia, which means the takeof pipis and vongole are well managed and there’s little or no bycatch.B U Y IN G S U S T A IN A B L ES E A F O O D

2 live Australian eastern orwestern rock lobsters(600gm-700gm each)1 telegraph cucumber,thinly sliced1 fennel bulb, thinly shavedon a mandoline, frondsreserved to serve1 cup mint leaves, torn1 golden shallot, thinly slicedCURRY DRESSING½ small garlic clove, crushed1 tsp mild curry powder60 ml (1/4 cup) olive oilJuice of 1-2 limes (or to taste)1Place lobsters in freezer torender them insensible (30minutes), then split lengthwaysthrough the head (see note). Boillobsters in a saucepan of boilingsalted water (about ½ cup of saltto 5 litres water) until bright redand cooked through (8 minutes).Remove and set aside to cool.Poached lobster with fennel and curry-lime dressingSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 10 MINS (PLUS FREEZING, COOLING)A vibrant curry dressing gives this wonderfullylight salad a kick of flavour and bright colour.2For curry dressing, heatgarlic, curry powder and oil ina small saucepan over mediumheat until fragrant (2-3 minutes). Cool, then stir through limejuice and season to taste.3Combine remainingingredients and fennel frondsin a bowl and toss to combine.Crack shells from lobster legsand remove meat. Remove tailmeat from shell and thinly slice,then combine with salad.Transfer to a platter, drizzleover dressing and serve.NoteRSPCA Australia’s advicefor killing crustaceans humanelyis to render them insensibleby placing them in the freezer(under 4˚C) until the tail or outermouth parts can be movedwithout resistance (about 30minutes); crustaceans mustthen be killed quickly by cuttingthrough the centreline of the head and thorax.Pipis stir-fried with Australian apera, garlic and celery SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 5 MINSCelery adds a slightly peppery flavour and textural crunchto this modern Australian take on a classic Chinese dish.2 tbsp olive oil4 garlic cloves, verythinly sliced2 spring onions, cutinto batons1 long red chilli,finely chopped1 bunch Chinese celery(see note), washed well, coarsely chopped1 kg pipis60 ml dry Australian apera (or to taste)20 gm butter (optional)Sliced sourdough bread (see note), to serve1Heat oil in a wok over highheat. Add garlic and fry, stirring occasionally, until fragrant(1 minute). Add onion, chilliand half the celery, stir tocombine, then add pipis andapera, and toss to combine.Cover with a lid and cookuntil pipis open (2-3 minutes).2Stir through remainingcelery and butter, then seasonto taste. Serve with sourdough.NoteChinese celery is availablefrom Asian supermarkets. Ifunavailable, substitute celeryheart or flat-leaf parsley. Weused Iggy's sourdough bread.➤LobsterAll props stylist’sown.PipisPietra Chalon tilefrom Surface Gallery (usedas surface throughout). Allother props stylist’s own.PREVIOUS PAGES CrudoPale blue bread plate fromMud Australia. All otherprops stylist’s own.FishAll props stylist’s own.

1 kg octopus tentacles,cleaned (see note)200 gm (1 cup) dried chickpeas, soaked overnight incold water60 ml (1/4 cup) extra-virginolive oil3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced½ tsp chilli flakes½ tsp paprika (or to taste)6 large green queen olives, pitted, flesh sliced1 lemon, thinly sliced,plus juice of 2 lemons(or to taste)Handful of flat-leafparsley, to serve1Bring a large saucepan ofsalted water to the boil overhigh heat. Add octopus, bringback to a simmer, then reduceheat to medium and simmeruntil octopus is very tender (50 minutes to 1 hour).Salt, to serve2 dozen oystersCoriander, to servePOMEGRANATE DRESSING2 tbsp pomegranate molasses2 tbsp red wine vinegar2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oilArils from 1 smallpomegranate1 golden shallot,finely chopped1For pomegranate dressing,combine molasses, vinegar andoil in a bowl, and mix to combine.Stir through pomegranate arils and shallot, and season totaste with black pepper.2To serve, scatter salt overa plate, top with oysters, spoona little dressing in each oysterand scatter over coriander. Octopus with chickpeas,lemon and green olivesSERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 1 HR 20 MINS (PLUS SOAKING, COOLING)This dish is ideal for entertaining as the chickpeas and octopus can be cooked ahead and finished last minute when ready to serve.OYSTERSOpt for Sydney rock oysters – theyare a native species, hence theirname. They are also filter feeders,so this has a net positive on theareas they are being grown in.Oysters with pomegranate dressingSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 10 MINSA tangy pomegranate dressing perfectly complementssweet, salty oysters. It’s quick and easy to prepare, too.2Meanwhile, drain chickpeasand add to a large saucepan.Add cold water to coverchickpeas, bring to a simmerover medium heat, and cookuntil chickpeas are tender(40-45 minutes). Set asideto cool until required.3Heat oil in a saucepan overlow heat. Add garlic and sautéuntil just tender (1-2 minutes).Add chilli, paprika and lemonslices and stir to combine(1 minute). Add octopus andstir until starting to turn golden(2-3 minutes). Remove octopus from pan and set aside.4Drain chickpeas (reservewater) and add to pan witholives and 125ml reservedwater, season to taste andsimmer until chickpeas absorbhalf of the liquid (10-15 minutes).To serve, season to taste,stir through parsley, top withoctopus, and squeeze overlemon juice to taste.NoteCleaned tentacles areavailable from fishmongers,or ask yours to clean and slicethe head from whole octopus.➤

GOURMET TRAVELLER105OCTOPUSOctopus grow andreproduce quickly, andpopulations are resilientto fishing pressure.Octopus& oystersAll propsstylist’s own.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 106SEA MULLETCurrently sea mulletstocks are healthy. It’scaught in low quantities,usually in small nets wherethe fishermen are present.Sea mulletAllprops stylist’s own.PipisPlate fromMud Australia.

150 gm moghrabieh(pearl couscous)1 tbsp mild-flavouredextra-virgin olive oil1 whole sea mullet (500gm)2 tbsp olive oilLemon cheeks, to serveCHERMOULA2 tsp coriander seeds2 tsp cumin seeds1 tsp paprika1 garlic clove, coarselychopped1 cup (firmly packed)coriander, chopped1 cup (firmly packed)flat-leaf parsley, chopped50 ml olive oil½ preserved lemon,finely chopped1Preheat oven to 200°C.Cook moghrabieh in asaucepan of boiling wateruntil tender (8-10 minutes).Drain well and set aside. Sea mullet with moghrabieh and chermoulaSERVES 2-4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS COOLING)Chermoula, a flavoursome paste made of coriander, spicesand lemon, helps to cut through the oiliness of the sea mullet.2For chermoula, dry-roastcoriander and cumin in a fryingpan over medium-high heatuntil fragrant (1-2 minutes).Cool, add a pinch of salt, thenfinely crush with a mortar andpestle. Add paprika and garlicand pound until a smooth paste,then add herbs a handful at atime and pound until a coarsepaste. Add oil and preservedlemon and stir to combine.3Heat a non-stick ovenprooffrying pan over high heat.Add oil, then fish and searon one side until golden(5 minutes). Turn fish over,add chermoula and 125mlwater and transfer pan to theoven to roast until cookedthrough (10 minutes).4To serve, remove fromthe oven and stir moghrabiehinto the pan. Season to taste and serve with lemon.1For orange-shallot dressing,combine oil and orange zestin a bowl and leave to infuse(10 minutes). Stir throughremaining ingredients andseason to taste with pepper.Refrigerate until required.2Arrange red emperor andfruit on a platter. Season totaste with salt flakes andspoon dressing on top. Scatter over oregano and serve.NoteIf red emperor isunavailable, substitute red snapper.●Red emperor crudo with stonefruit and orange-oregano dressingSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS (PLUS INFUSING)In-season stone fruit and a bright citrus dressing make this disha great summertime starter or shared antipasto.Pictured p100.270 gm red emperor fillet(see note), thinly sliced1 ripe yellow peach1 ripe red plum, thinly slicedYoung oregano leaves,to serveORANGE-SHALLOT DRESSING60 ml mild-flavoured extra-virgin olive oilFinely grated zest andjuice of ½ orange½ golden shallot, finely choppedRED EMPERORThis tropical species is caughtacross northern Australia, and itsstocks are currently healthy.

GRE A TP h o to g r a p h yG E N T L A N D H Y E R Sp110Butterfliedchickenwith pickledmustard seeds

InhisbookThe Outdoor Kitchen,chefERIC WERNER,ofHartwoodin Tulum,Mexico,turnshistalents to the art of the barbecue.O UTDOORSThe recipes in this extractcall for cooking with embersbut we strongly suggestusing a gas barbecue. It’s alsoessential to check any firerestrictions in your area.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 1101 large eggplant½ cup pitted dates½ cup roasted walnuts, finely chopped2 tbsp roasted garlic oil1 tbsp roasted garlic, crushed1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juiceToasted pita or focaccia, to serve1Heat a barbecue (preferablywoodfired) to high and wipebarbecue grill grates with oilto prevent sticking. If using awoodfired barbecue, create atwo-zone fire. Your high-heatzone should have embers2.5cm-5cm from the cookingsurface, with occasional flames Eggplant dip with grilled datesSERVES 6-8“Eggplant usually only takes 15-20 minutes to get softand smoky, making this an easy appetiser to pull togetherwhile you cook the rest of the meal,” says Eric Werner.licking it. To create yourmedium-heat zone, nudgethe embers 5cm-7.5cm lower than that.2Roast eggplant over mediumheat, turning occasionally, untilvery soft (15-20 minutes). Halvelengthways and scoop out theflesh from skin (discard skin).Place flesh in a strainer anddrain for a couple of minutes.3Meanwhile, grill dates overhigh heat (about 1 minute eachside). Finely chop and set aside.4Place eggplant in a bowland mash with a fork untilvery smooth. Season to taste with salt. Add remainingingredients and mix well.Serve with toasted pita.2 chickens (1kg-1.8kg each)¼ cup vinegar3 tbsp honey, plus extra for brushing and to tastePICKLED MUSTARD SEEDS8 tbsp each yellow andbrown mustard seeds (or use all yellow)2 cups apple cider vinegar3 tbsp honeyButterflied chicken with pickled mustard seedsSERVES 6-8“Most of my recipes using pickled mustard seeds use a little fortang and their caviar-like ‘pop’,” says Werner. “Here, they’re thestar. With just a few ingredients but manifold spicy-sour-sweetflavours, it’s equally suited to weekdays and special occasions.” Pictured p108.1For pickled mustard seeds,combine ingredients in a smallsaucepan over medium heatand simmer, stirring frequently and adding water if liquidevaporates (30 minutes).Cool to room temperature.This recipe makes 2 cups andwill keep refrigerated for up to 3 months.2Heat a barbecue (preferablywoodfired) to high and wipebarbecue grill grates with oil to prevent sticking. Yourhigh-heat zone should haveembers 2.5cm-5cm fromthe cooking surface, withoccasional flames licking it.3To prepare chicken, usekitchen shears and cut alongboth sides of the backbone andremove (your butcher can alsodo this for you). Place chicken,skin-side up, on cutting boardand apply firm pressure to the breastbone to flatten.4Add 1 cup drained pickledmustard seeds to a blenderwith vinegar, 1 tbsp honeyand 2 tsp salt, and blend untilsmooth. Toss chicken withmarinade and refrigerate,covered (at least 2 hours orovernight), then remove chickenand wipe off excess marinade.5Grill chickens, bone-sidedown, over high heat (about 10 minutes). Flip chickens,move to medium heat andcook until an instant-readmeat thermometer placedin the thickest part of thethigh reads 74°C (about30 minutes; you can flipchickens occasionally whilecooking to give an even colour). During the last 5 minutes ofcooking, brush chickens withextra honey. Transfer to acutting board and rest for10 minutes before slicing.6Meanwhile, add remainingpickled mustard seeds andremaining honey to a blenderand blend to a smooth purée.Add extra honey and/or salt to taste.7To serve, smear pickledmustard seed purée overa large platter (or individualplates) and top with chicken.

GOURMET TRAVELLER11124 raw prawns, peeledHoney (optional), for coating8 grilled lime halves(optional), to serveRUB1 tbsp coriander seeds1 tbsp whole allspice berries½ tbsp cumin seeds1 tsp black peppercorns1 tsp ground cloves1 tsp sweet paprika1 tsp cayenne pepperFinely grated zest of 2 limes1Heat a barbecue (preferablywoodfired) to medium and wipebarbecue grill grates with oilto prevent sticking. If usinga woodfired barbecue, createa two-zone fire. Your high-heat zone should have embers2.5cm-5cm from the cooking surface, with occasionalflames licking it. To createyour medium-heat zone,nudge the embers 5cm-7.5cm lower than that.2For rub, combine coriander,allspice, cumin and peppercornsin a frying pan and dry-roastover medium heat until fragrant(about 3 minutes) Grind to a.powder, then mix in cloves,paprika, cayenne, lime zest and 1 tbsp salt.3Coat prawns liberally withthe rub. The prawns’ ownmoisture should help the rubadhere; if not, add a little honey.Thread 6 prawns on each of 4 metal skewers (if usingwooden skewers, soak for an hour before using).4Grill skewers over mediumheat (3 minutes each side).Serve with grilled limes.●Jerk-grilledprawns on sticksSERVES 4“You can also chop the prawnsand mix them with avocado,lime and mayo to serve onits own or packed into picnicsandwiches,” says Werner. This extract fromTheOutdoor Kitchenby EricWerner with Nils Bernstein(Ten Speed Press/PenguinRandom House, $59.99,hbk) has been reproduced withGT style edits.

PuredelightIn her new cookbook,Whole Food CookingEvery Day,AMY CHAPLIN sharesnourishing recipes that star natural ingredients.PhotographyANSON SMART

GOURMET TRAVELLER113215 gm almond meal22 gm gluten-free oat flour1 tsp baking powder1 tbsp fennel seeds, ground,plus extra fennel seeds for sprinkling2 large eggs, at roomtemperature120 ml pure maple syrup60 ml melted extra-virgincoconut oil1 tbsp vanilla extract¼ tsp almond extract285 gm ripe figs (about 10),cut in half lengthwise1Preheat oven to 180°C. Linea 33cm x 10cm loaf pan withbaking paper, creasing paperagainst the sides as necessary.2Put almond meal in a bowland use your fingertips to workout any lumps. Sift in oat flourand baking powder, add fennel and whisk to combine.400 gm rolled oats320 gm raw buckwheat groats200 gm unsweetened flaked dried coconut140 gm almonds1 cup nuts, such aswalnuts, hazelnuts,pecans or pistachios, roughly chopped140 gm pepitas65 gm sunflower seeds70 gm unhulled sesame seeds40 gm chia seeds1 tsp ground cinnamon160 ml brown rice syrup120 ml melted extra-virgincoconut oil1 tbsp vanilla extract1Preheat oven to 150°Cand line two baking trayswith baking paper. Combineoats, buckwheat, coconut,almonds, nuts, pepitas,sunflower seeds, sesameseeds, chia seeds, cinnamon and 1 tsp fine sea salt in a largebowl. Stir well to combine.2Place brown rice syrup andcoconut oil in a small saucepanover low heat, and gently warm,stirring, until smooth. Addvanilla and stir again. Pour syrupmixture over the oat-nut mixtureand mix well to combine.3Divide mixture between thebaking trays and spread outevenly. Bake for 15 minutes,then stir, rotate the trays, andreturn to the oven for another15 minutes or until the granolais golden and fragrant. (You mayneed to bake the granola foranother couple of minutes, butbe careful, as it can easily burn; and keep in mind that it willcrisp up further as it cools.)4Remove from the oven andlet cool completely. Granolawill keep in airtight jars for up to 6 weeks.GranolaMAKES ABOUT 1.5KG // 15 CUPSThis recipe can easily be halved or quartered.Fig-almond cake with fennelSERVES 83Beat eggs in a separatebowl. Add maple syrup, coconutoil, vanilla, almond extract and1/2 tsp fine sea salt, and whisk tocombine. Pour into almond flourmixture and stir with a rubberspatula until just combined.4Pour batter into the preparedpan and spread it out evenlywith a rubber spatula. Arrangefigs, cut side up, over the topand sprinkle with fennel seeds.5Bake until cake is golden ontop and a toothpick insertedinto the centre comes out clean(35-40 minutes). Remove fromthe oven and set on a rack tocool for at least 10 minutesbefore removing from thepan. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.➤Cooking with whole foods simply means choosingfoods that are in their natural state or as closeto it as possible. When it comes to finding themotivation to get into the kitchen and cook,what could be more inspiring than seasonal, freshingredients – from a bunch of newly picked deep-green kale or a rich orange pumpkin to savoury seeds, grains andbeans in every shape and colour? These beautiful foods don’tneed much preparation to turn them into a nourishing meal.In a whole-food diet, there is no room for ingredients thatare highly refined or processed or that contain anything artificial.Choosing to cook with whole foods means you are getting themaximum nutrition intended by nature, and when the foods areproperly prepared, their nutrient value can even increase. Whetheryou are a vegetarian, a vegan or an omnivore, a whole-food dietcan help you achieve and maintain optimum health and wellness.

300 ml almond milk21/2 tbsp ground linseed45 gm almond meal85 gm gluten-free oat flour65 gm millet flour30 gm brown rice flour1 tbsp baking powder120 gm autumn fruit compote(see recipe below)60 ml melted extra-virgin coconut oil, plusextra for greasing1 tbsp vanilla extract1 tbsp organic rose water1 tsp apple cider vinegar45 gm roasted sesame seedsSesame seeds,raspberries and freeze-dried raspberries, andorganic fresh or driedrose petals, to servePure maple syrup, to serve 1Whisk almond milk andlinseed in a bowl. Set aside forat least 10 minutes to thicken.2Preheat a waffle iron. Putalmond meal in a medium bowl Rose-sesame wafflesMAKES 8 WAFFLESand break up any lumps withyour fingertips. Sift in oat flour,millet flour, brown rice flourand baking powder and whiskto combine.3Whisk linseed mixture again,then add compote, oil, vanilla,rose water, vinegar and sesameseeds, and stir well. Add flourmixture and stir with a rubberspatula until just combined.4Lightly brush waffle ironwith oil and scoop about ascant 1/2 cup of batter (theexact amount will depend onyour iron) onto the iron. Cookaccording to the manufacturer’sinstructions, or slightly longer,until golden; vegan wafflesusually need to cook for a fewminutes longer than suggested for regular waffles.5To serve, top waffleswith sesame seeds, raspberries and rose petals and drizzlewith syrup.NoteIf you want to make andserve waffles all at once, keepthe first batches warm in anoven preheated to 95°C.Autumn fruit compoteMAKES ABOUT 21/2 CUPS680 gm apples, pears or quinces120 ml filtered water1 tsp vanilla extractPinch of fine sea salt1Peel, quarter and core fruit,then cut into 1.25cm slices.Place in a medium saucepan,add water, vanilla and salt,and bring to a boil over highheat. Cover, reduce heat tolow and simmer until fruit iscooked through (10-15 minutes;stir halfway through to ensureeven cooking). Cool. Compotewill keep in a sealed jar in therefrigerator for up to 5 days.“Who says waffles are forweekends only? Make a batchof these on Sunday morning,enjoy some of them fresh,and store the rest in thefreezer, ready for quick,healthy breakfasts duringthe week,” says Amy Chaplin.

Return to the oven until thecoconut is browning and theseeds are roasted (8 minutes).3Transfer mixture to a bowl,add 1/2 tsp fine salt and mix well.Transfer 2 cups of the mixtureto a food processor andprocess, scraping the sidesas necessary, until mixtureis very smooth. Set aside.4Add hemp seeds, nettleleaves, matcha, nori and 1 tspsea salt flakes to remainingmixture and mix well.5Place rice syrup in a smallsaucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Stir invanilla. Remove from the heat.6Add ground seed mixture tothe syrup mixture and stir untilsmooth. Pour into the bowl withthe remaining roasted seedsand coconut and stir untilthoroughly combined (you mayneed to use your hands to dothis). Using clean, damp hands,press the mixture firmly andevenly into the lined tin.7Refrigerate bars for 1 houror freeze for 30 minutes, oruntil thoroughly chilled andset. Cut into fingers. Bars willkeep in an airtight containerat room temperature for up to4 weeks; in warmer weather,store in the fridge.NoteDried nettle leaves areavailable from select health-foodstores. To make crushed nori,hold nori sheet about 12cmabove a medium gas flame,moving it constantly to preventburning, until a light green colour(you only need to toast oneside). Crush nori sheet with yourhands into about 1cm pieces.●Super-green barsMAKES 16-20 BARS1Preheat oven to 150°Cand line the bottom and sidesof a 20cm-square cake tin withbaking paper. Put sunflowerand pumpkin seeds in a largestrainer and rinse well undercold running water, then drainand set over a bowl to drainthoroughly while oven heats.2Line a rimmed baking traywith baking paper and spreadout seeds. Roast for 15 minutes.Remove pan from the oven andsprinkle coconut over the top. 130 gm sunflower seeds570 gm pepitas100 gm unsweetened dried coconut flakes3 tbsp hemp seeds2 tbsp dried nettle leaves(see note)2 tsp matcha-tea powder1 nori sheet, toasted and crushed (see note)80 ml brown rice syrup1 tsp vanilla extractThis extract fromWholeFood Cooking Every Dayby Amy Chaplin (WorkmanBooks, $59.99, hbk) hasbeen reproduced withminorGT style edits.

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FEBRU AR YTRAVELTumblong Hillswinery, NSWp138Exploring south-west Cambodia, Fiji’s Kokomo Private Island,wineries in the NSW Riverina, and the Faroe Islands’ capital.Change of scenePHOTOGRAPHY GUY WILLIMENT FOR DESTINATION NSW.

Beyond the World Heritage treasures of Angkor, a new raft of jungle and beachadventures is launching in south-west Cambodia, writesHELEN ANDERSON.JUN GLEBOOK



The humidity is rising on the junglefloor, and so is the adrenaline. Whatstarted as excitement at the base ofa tower thrusting into the canopyteeters now, at the top, towards fear.The most anticipated new resortin Asia in the past year has a check-in procedure likeno other. To enter the jungle-camp fantasy of ShintaMani Wild, a traveller flies to the Cambodian capitalof Phnom Penh, drives three hours, then jumps ona war-era Jeep for a short transit into the south-westwilderness. Hidden in the jungle is the aforementionedtower – climb it, throw on helmet and harness, and runright off that edge. My first experience of zip-lining isin this green void, hurtling along a 380-metre line. Thetreetops seem close; the river far below. There’s a giddypause on the penultimate platform, then I take theplunge again, hurling myself over a waterfall and towardsthe bar, aptly named the Landing Zone, and into thearms of the camp’s general manager, Sangjay Choegyal,who unzips his guests from the zip-line and hands thema drink. There’s a more conventional way to check in,of course, but the slug of tequila in the pineapple andbay-leaf soda on arrival won’t seem so indispensable.From aerial arrival to anti-poaching patrolswith rangers, orchid-hunting to fly-fishing withgibbons, Bensley Collection – Shinta Mani Wild isbuilt for adventure and extravagant fun, but also withuncommon purpose. The story begins in 2010 when theprolific resort designer, Bill Bensley, and his Cambodianbusiness partner, Sokoun Chanpreda, bid at governmentauction and bought a 350-hectare logging concessionsurrounded by three national parks in south-westCambodia, a highly vulnerable plot deep within thelast relatively intact wilderness area in Southeast Asia.Bensley describes it as a “buy-first-think-later moment”.“We had no intentions of destroying it,” he says, “butwithout a clear vision of what to do with it.”On frequent expeditions in the next few years theydiscovered the extent of illegal logging, mining andheavy poaching on their plot and in the surroundingKirirom, Bokor and Cardamom parks. The wild ideaof building a remote “high-yield, low-impact” camptook shape, with the primary aim of funding theprotection and conservation of the forest.Bensley and Chanpreda have been at the vanguardof sustainable tourism in Cambodia since the early2000s, when Chanpreda opened a hospitality schoolin the grounds of his Shinta Mani Angkor hotel inSiem Reap. That school grew into the Shinta ManiFoundation, now with programs spanning education,micro-finance and healthcare. The foundation’srunning costs are covered by the owners and their fourShinta Mani hotels, and by donations from guests.At Shinta Mani’s latest project, the jungle campfunds a ranger station on the property, managed by➤ Shinta Mani Wild tentinteriors. Clockwisefrom top right: anoutdoor bath tub;antique mirror andvintage luggage, allat Shinta Mani Wild.PREVIOUS PAGESA riverside tent atShinta Mani Wild.GOURMET TRAVELLER 120

Gulf ofThailandC am b o d iaSiem ReapPhnom PenhShinta ManiWildSihanoukvilleKohRusseyGOURMET TRAVELLER121PHOTOGRAPHY ELISE HASSEY (MIRROR).

Clockwise fromtop left: ShintaMani Wild orchidexpert Bong Det;grilled marinatedprawns andstir-fried waterspinach at AlilaVillas Koh Russey;a native plant; aKoh Russey local.Opposite: wildliferangers patrollingfor hunters andillegal loggers atShinta Mani Wild.the international non-government conservationorganisation Wildlife Alliance and staffed by locals,some of whom were poachers and loggers. Rangers clearsnares, arrest hunters and illegal loggers, and seize gunsand gear. The results of surveillance of the area, saysChoegyal, have been encouraging, with fewer snaresset and animals killed in areas that once were heavilytrapped. One afternoon, I hitch a ride on the back of amotorbike with a ranger. Though we find no poachers,the ranger’s AK-47, I’m told, is not just for show.The next morning I walk into the forest with thecamp’s head naturalist, Chanmunny “Munny” Van, tocheck his wildlife cameras, mainly for evidence of nativecats: civet, pig-tailed, leopard. The whooping duets ofcourting pileated gibbons, an endangered species, echoaround us, and his face lights up. “I explain to huntersand loggers we’re not protecting the forest for ourselves,we’re protecting it for their children and grandchildren,”he says. “I give them a warning and normally they stop.” With help from personal “adventure butlers”assigned to each tent, the intrepid possibilitiesmultiply: chasing butterflies with head butler Sarawut“Mac” Saikaew, birdwatching along the Srey Ambelestuary on a whimsically decorated “expedition”boat, foraging and hiking, riverbed cocktails atsunset and Japanese tenkara fly-fishing at dawn.There are adventures, too, back at Headquarters,a camo-swathed open-air fantasy tent stuffed withKhmer objets d’art, vintage carousel horses, century- old Burmese burial totems, jungle-vine chairs, antiquetheatre lights, propellers and portholes – a place whereJacqueline Kennedy might meet Pedro Almodóvar overginger Mojitos. (The former First Lady’s brief visit toCambodia in 1967 at the invitation of King NorodomSihanouk was Bensley’s far-fetched inspiration for theflamboyant fit-out. His premise: what if the king hadinvited Jackie on safari to the South Cardamom forest?).Meals at Headquarters under drowsily spinningfans are light and full of fresh flavours, prepared onrequest or chosen from the day’s blackboard. Start with green goddess avocado and poached egg on toast orThai breakfast porridge, order the likes of tomatoand watermelon gazpacho or a herbal Lao chicken-ricesalad in the heat of the day, and work up an appetiteby foraging for forest plants that star in tasting dinners of refined Khmer dishes such as a deconstructedscallop amok, and twists on classic Asian recipes.Born in California and based in Bangkok, Bensleyhas designed some 200 resorts and hotels – he has GOURMET TRAVELLER 122

practically defined the Asian-resort style – but possiblyhe’s never had more fun than in this passion project.Not a single tree was cut down, Choegyal insists, duringthe construction of 15 guest tents spaced for privacyand raised for overwater ambience along a 1.5-kilometrestretch of the Tmor Rung river. The Raging Big SisterFalls thunder upstream, the soundtrack to drinks inthe Landing Zone bar and dips in the long ridgetopswimming pool, painted black like a reflective junglewaterhole. The tents are built for good times – over-riverdecks, curtain-swathed living rooms with overstuffedsofas, fully stocked ice-chests, old-fashioned oscillating fans – and formeditation. Soakoutdoors in a showpiece hammered-metalbathtub at dusk,or watch butterflies(or stars) from thehammock-nets suspended thrillingly from the railing-freedeck edge. In the Cambodian Royalty tent, I wake ona campaign bed beneath golden umbrellas, surroundedby vintage luggage, an exquisite silver Khmer headdress,hand-painted frescoes and leather studded mirrors– maybe not imperial, but certainly fabulous.Until recently, the majestic 12th-century temple-complex at Angkor, on the outskirts of Siem Reap,was the single most popular attraction for travellers toCambodia. In 2018, 2.6 million visitors marvelled atits remarkable bas-reliefs and monuments. A fraction would head to the riverside capital Phnom Penh to seeTuol Sleng Prison and the Killing Fields, monumentsto the genocide inflicted by the Khmer Rouge inthe 1970s; some two million people were murderedor died of starvation in the regime’s four-year rule.Cambodia remains one of the poorest nations inSoutheast Asia, with threadbare infrastructure.Until recently, there were few other reasons formost travellers to linger before heading to the beachesof Thailand. Itineraries are being rewritten, however,as new bars and boutique hotels open in Phnom Penh,notably the Rosewood Phnom Penh, and the game-changing Shinta ManiWild and a handfulof new luxury islandresorts in the south-west.In 2006 formerSydney couple Roryand Melita Hunter weresailing in the Koh Rong archipelago, off the south-west port city of Sihanoukville, when they noticed anisland for sale and bought it on impulse. In 2012 theyopened the nation’s first private-island resort, SongSaa. Barefoot luxury in 27 villas is delivered with apioneering ethos of sustainability and communitycollaboration, underpinned by a charitable foundation.“We didn’t set out to buy the island… or to builda hotel,” Rory told me a few years ago. “We were justas excited about the philanthropic opportunities asthe commercial ones.” In late 2018, the Hunters➤ I wake on a campaign bed beneath goldenumbrellas, surrounded by vintage luggageand an exquisite silver Khmer headdress.PHOTOGRAPHY ELISE HASSEY (BONG DET).

announced a new sustainable-tourism venture, Song Saa Reserve, near the Angkor temple of BanteaySrei, with hotels, villas, education centres andnature reserves planned around a 35-hectare lake.Another two glamorous island resorts in KohRong have opened recently: Six Senses Krabey Island, with 40 pool villas on a 12-hectare jungle island with rocky coastline; and Alila Villas KohRussey, where my suite looks over a beach.The two islands are accessible in 10 minutes by speedboat from private jetties on theoutskirts of Sihanoukville. The region isbeing promoted as “the new CambodianRiviera”, a reference to the French colonialélite, then the international jet set, whoonce partied in beachfront villas alongthe coast, and to a new jet set drawn to thelaid-back island vibe of Koh Rong. Most willuse Sihanoukville as their gateway – Thai AirAsia recently launched direct flights from Bangkok,and Bangkok Airways launched in January – thoughthe city’s reputation as an overdeveloped enclave ofChinese casinos and industrial zones means manytravellers will head offshore quickly.Alila Villas Koh Russey is a serene parallel universe.The transit from the mainland to barefoot lunch at TheBeach Shack is swift, the effect of sand, sun and coconutpalms immediately soothing. The geometric woodpanelling in the lofty lobby pavilion exemplifies theresort’s style: sleek, contemporary and influenced byCambodian craft traditions, in this case the chequeredpattern of a traditional cotton krama scarf. Themain restaurant, facing the showpiece lagoon pooland the beach beyond, has similar DNA, its hugefeature wall studded by recycled offcuts of timber.Certified by EarthCheck, a Brisbane-based tourismadvisory body, the resort occupies a beachfront plotsurrounded by bamboo forest on the 24-hectare islandof Koh Russey. Its 50 pavilions and 13two- and four-bedroom pool villas arespacious and private. Guests can practisemorning yoga beneath a banyan tree, headto a private cove for a beach picnic, andarrange day trips to Kep, known for its crabmarket, and the pepper farms of Kampot.I catch a longtail boat from KohRussey’s jetty one sultry afternoon andhop between neighbouring islands – tiny,bristling with jungle and, like Cambodiaitself, adventures waiting to happen.lLuxury travel company Lightfoot Travelarranges bespoke trips throughout the world.Lightfoot arrangedGT’s travel to Cambodia,including stays at Bensley Collection - ShintaMani Wild and Alila Villas Koh Russey. Aseven-night itinerary costs from $8500 perperson including return flights between Sydneyand Phnom Penh, accommodation, transfersand experiences. Extensions to visit thetemples of Angkor and nearby Siem Reap arehighly recommended.lightfoottravel.com/enGettingthereGOURMET TRAVELLER 124Dining at AlilaVillas Koh Russey.Below, from left:the arrival jetty atKoh Russey;geometric woodpanelling in thelobby of AlilaVillas Koh Russey.

3. DRIVE TOHO CHI MINH CITYLocated a five-hour drive from PhnomPenh is bustling Ho Chi Minh City (pictured).Rise above the chaos to Rex’s Rooftop forcocktails or Vo Roof Garden for viewsand bun bo hue. For pho, try Pho 1954,which has been in business for over 50years. And for craft beer, head to PasteurStreet Brewing and sample local brews. Extend your stayNow more than ever, travel is a true luxury so it’s important to take considered,sustainably-minded trips where possible. To make the most of the air miles, pack more into your Cambodian adventure with these stopover suggestions and add-ons.1. STOP OVER INSINGAPOREIt’s well worth carving out time to makethe most of your layover beyond the airportat this island city-state. Explore thestreet-food markets, world-class bars andrestaurants before checking into the recentlyrevamped Raffles Singapore (pictured), andfind out why the grande dame is still theultimate place to drink a Singapore Sling. 2. VISITKUALA LUMPURThis metropolis is ideal for a one- or two-night stopover. Explore the shopping centreat Bukit Bintang and navigate the rest of thecity via the convenient monorail. Eat charcoalhokkien mee from Lot 10 for lunch and headto Jalan Alor for abundant street-food options(pictured) in the evening, before retiringto the elegant Four Seasons Hotel. 123GOURMET TRAVELLER125WORDSJORDANKRETCHMER(EXTENDYOURSTAY).PHOTOGRAPHY RALF TOOTEN (RAFFLES)& GETTY IMAGES (HO CHI MINH CITY & STREET FOOD).

This month we hear fromCHRISTIAN F PUGLISIonsustainability and where to eat and drink in his hometown.A CHEF’S GUIDE TO…Copenhagen, DenmarkChristian F Puglisi is the restaurateur andchef behind Copenhagen’s Relæ, one of theworld’s most sustainable Michelin-starredrestaurants. When he’s not entertainingfriends at pizza restaurant Bæst, the El Bulli-trained,ex-Noma sous-chef delves into food research and chefeducation, and runs Farm of Ideas, an organic farmthat sustainably produces food for his restaurants. W orking with natureThe major question in terms of sustainability is how toexpand people’s understanding of produce. People don’tunderstand where their food comes from. It’s part of the reason we decided to start Farm ofIdeas. It’s asking the question: “Whatis the agricultural system we arein, and what influence can we aschefs and restaurateurs have on it?”Our values need to focus on servingnature rather than trying to dominateit. One way we’re doing this is bygrowing more than 150 varieties ofvegetables for our restaurants andsourcing products from our ownanimals. We’re never 100 per cent incontrol, but we have to use our skills and ideas to make the most out of it for the sake of the planet. Benchmark burgersOne place that does a good jobof applying sustainability to theirday-to-day business is GasolineGrill. It’s famous for making amazingburgers and it’s also certified organic.The meat is ground on-site daily andit sells out every day. There are sixlocations across the city, but it started at a gas station, hence the name. PHOTOGRAPHYHANSBAERHOLM(SLURPRAMENJOINT),KRISTIANBUST(LABANCHINA),KARL EJNARJØRGENSEN (CHRISTIAN F PUGLISI),PJØRGENSEN (RELÆ) & GETTY IMAGES (MAIN).GOURMET TRAVELLER 126

As told to Jessica Rigg forThe Local Tongue. For morechef’s guides from around theworld, seethelocaltongue.comClockwise fromfar left: a Copenhagenstreet scene; Manfreds’bar; Bæst head chefJan Kopacz; onion,birch water and pine oilat Relæ; Slurp RamenJoint; roasted pumpkinwith carrot sauce atLa Banchina.Bringing Mexico to CopenhagenThe restaurant I visit the mostis Sanchez by Rosio Sanchez. Whatstands out is that it brings flavoursto the plate that you don’t reallyfind anywhere else in Copenhagen.It’s unique and you can’t beat it forRosio’s inventive Mexican dishes.The combination of acidity andflavours from smoked chilliesand fruit is something special. An ambitiousbowl of noodlesSlurp Ramen Joint is an extremelyambitious ramen project. The chefs Bak ers ’ delightsWhen I’m on the road, the one thingI miss is sourdough from MirabelleBakery. It’s the bread we serve atall our restaurants, and if you eatat Mirabelle restaurant you can seeit being made at our in-house bakery. We’ve expanded with croissantsand a few laminated doughs that I’mvery proud of. We keep the offeringlimited so that we have less waste and keep the quality high. Drinking wine, naturallyIf I have something to celebrate, I’llmost likely head to Ved Stranden10. It’s refined but still manages tofeel casual. I love it. My restaurantand wine bar Manfreds was, I dareto say, one of the first venues toreally push the natural-wine agendain Copenhagen. It’s about simplicity and high quality. Exploring vermouthLast year we added Rudo to the Relæcommunity. It’s a vermouth-focusedbar that we have great pleasureworking on. It’s a drink-focused venueso the food is quite simple. There arethings like house-made charcuterie,and the most popular dish is thestracciatella and black-truffle toast.●are very focused on the qualityof the product and make all of thenoodles themselves. The kitchen essentially runs as a line in afine-dining restaurant, which isquite impressive for what it is. T aking DIY tothe next levelWhen I entertain I want to be ableto share food with friends, andthere’s nothing quite like sharingthe burrata at Bæst. Being my ownrestaurant I’m obviously biased,but it’s also my house. Bæst hasa butchery and micro-dairy upstairswhere we make all our charcuterieand raw-milk cheeses, something that is unique in Denmark. Asian foodcook ed with careLisa Lov, a former sous chef at Relæ, opened Tigermom in 2018. Themenu is an eclectic view on herCambodian and New Zealand rootswith a modern mix of Asian flavoursand personality. It has a set menuthat changes all the time but onedish that really stood out for me wasscallop with XO butter. While workingat Relæ, Lov learnt how to sourcethe finest produce and championthe sustainable agenda, and this issomething she brings to Tigermom. Sustainable seafoodIf you want to eat where the localseat, head to La Banchina for simpletasty fish by the water. This is usuallywhere you’ll find me on a summer’sday. The chef, a former apprenticeof mine, makes no compromisesand only sources fish that he canserve with a good conscience.Fried chick en and beerBrought to you by the Amassteam, Broaden & Build is a greatplace to go with a few friends.It’s a brewery in an old warehouse with a taproom and deliciousbar snacks, like its famous friedchicken. The food is simple,organic and ingredient driven. A chef ’s guideGOURMET TRAVELLER127

PARADISEFOUND

During a stay at the luxurious Kokomo Private Islandin Fiji,JOANNA HUNKINdiscovers a whole new world of relaxation – and the cleansing power of noni fruit.PhotographyKONRAD KASISKE

Ihave discovered a new state of being. Itsits somewhere between deep relaxationand full catatonia. I’ve decided to call itobscene relaxation. It’s a state I enterrepeatedly during my time on KokomoPrivate Island, a resort found 45 minutes’flight south-east of Nadi. Even thinkingabout it now slows my breathing and warms myskin, a phantom sun beaming down.I first enter this curious state while swingingin my oceanfront hammock, strung between twoperfectly angled coconut trees, as a light sea breezegently rocks me like an infant. It strikes again asI float in my private infinity pool overlooking thatsame hammock and the shallow, azure water ofthe island’s beautiful eastern shore.It comes as no surprise that within hours ofarriving in this tropical oasis and discovering this newstate of calm, I immediately fall ill, finally succumbingto whatever lurgy had wiped out half our office earlierin the week. Typically, such a malady would spell theend of any holiday fun. But not at Kokomo.My first stop is to see the island’s naturopath,Kim Campbell, who devises a custom menu of naturalremedies to speed my recovery, all sourced from theisland’s farm and native bush. Pineapple and gingerjuice is the most palatable of the panaceas, whilea herbal tea made from dried papaya leaf has tobe forced down with several teaspoons of honey.Anything that unsavoury must surely be good foryou, and when I wake up the following morning,I’m stunned to find I’m almost completely recovered.She’s not done with me yet though, issuing mewith the island’s answer to Berocca – a shot of nonijuice. Noni fruit – also known as blue-cheese fruit– is a particularly pungent pome that looks a bit likea green, sprouting potato. I’ve been warned it tastes asfoul as it smells, but will deliver an immediate energyboost and increase my liver function – an instant cleanseof sorts. I brace myself for horror but it’s not that bad.The juice has been cleverly mixed with lemon and freshginger, and the result is entirely palatable. As the dayrolls on, I realise I’m feeling better than ever and bylate afternoon I’m happily snorkelling in open water,entranced by a rainbow cornucopia of corals, tropicalfish and the occasional reef shark.The warm waters around Kokomo are home toa spectacular array of sea life from turtles and sharks(harmless, I’m assured) to majestic manta rays andspinner dolphins. Even by Fiji standards, Kokomois something special and the resort’s owner LangWalker is committed to protecting this uniqueparadise. The Australian property developer purchasedthe island property nine years ago, after the globalfinancial crisis forced the previous owner to abandon GOURMET TRAVELLER 130

development plans. With a series of half-built villas inplace, Walker originally intended to keep the islandas a private property for friends and family. But asthe beauty of the island cast its spell over Walker, hesoon found himself poring over plans for a world-class resort, which opened to the public in April 2017.Part of those plans included a resident marinebiologist to help research and protect the island’sunique sea life and biodiversity. Dublin-born ClionaO’Flaherty has occupied the role for two years, andhas established a number of initiatives, includingcoral restoration, mangrove reforestation and mantaconservation programs. Guests are encouragedto learn about sustainability while witnessing theprograms in action, including planting their owncoral in the island’s coral garden, and catchingtheir own dinner as part of the Dock to Dish sustainable-seafood initiative. Kokomo sits inside the Great Astrolabe Reef,which is one of the largest reefs in the world. Andlike all coral reefs, it is vulnerable to climbing seatemperatures and changing climates. One of the firstprojects O’Flaherty set up was the coral restorationprogram, which identifies heat-resistant coral speciesand harvests clippings to grow in the coral garden,before transplanting the coral back into open water to build new reefs.This year, she was joined by another full-timemarine biologist, Viviana Taubera, as they launchedthe Kokomo Manta Conservation Project, whichinvolves tagging individual manta rays in order to tracktheir movements and identify areas of significance to better protect and preserve their habitats.But they aren’t the only ones committed tosustainability on the island. Since moving to Kokomoin May, executive chef Corey Campbell – formerly➤ Clockwisefrom topleft: a masterbedroom in abeachfront villa;the infinity poolat a beachfrontvilla; preparinga natural remedyfrom the island’sfarm; tropicalfish in the GreatAstrolabe Reef.PREVIOUSPAGES KokomoPrivate Island.Guests are encouraged tolearn about sustainability byplanting their own coral in theisland’s coral garden and catching their own dinner as part ofthe Dock to Dish initiative.GOURMET TRAVELLER131PHOTOGRAPHY KOKOMO PRIVATE ISLAND (BEDROOM, CORAL & INFINITY POOL).



of Noma in Copenhagen and Melbourne’s Vue deMonde – has been introducing a number of initiatives to reduce the amount of waste on the island anddevelop more sustainable food practices.Cling film has been almost completely banishedfrom the island’s kitchens and he has set up a saltfarm to replace the boxed and bagged sea salt, whichwas being shipped to the resort each week. He alsoworked with resort management to build a recyclingcentre, where all of the island’s waste is now separatedand sorted. Campbell’s newest hobby is taking thegreen glass bottles once filled with sparkling mineralwater and turning them into artisanal tumblers,which will soon be rolled out across the island’sthree restaurants. Bottles are also used to storegrains and dried goods in the kitchen pantries.Meanwhile, an industrial-sized Hot Rot machinequickly and efficiently turns food scraps into compost for the resort’s 2.2-hectare organic farm, whichproduces almost all of the island’s fresh fruit andvegetables. More than 170 free-range chickens providea constant supply of eggs to the resort, while Campbellhas also learnt the art of beekeeping, becoming theisland’s resident apiarist.Between the farm-to-table and dock-to-dishinitiatives, Campbell estimates around 90 per centof the island’s food offering is locally sourced. Inaddition to guests fishing for their dinner, wherethey regularly haul in a deep-sea catch big enoughto feed multiple guests, Campbell works with alocal fisherman to bring in extra supplies. Tuna,trout, mackerel, wahoo, mahi mahi, snapper andprawns are just some of the fresh catch on offerduring our stay. The challenge for Campbell andhead chef Caroline Oakley is continuing to comeup with new ways to serve it.It’s a challenge they are more than up to, drawinginspiration from around the world as they showcase a wide range of techniques and flavours. At theBeach Shack, where Campbell oversees the menu,the offering changes daily with clever twists onclassic dishes, such as coconut and avocado sushi,which sees grated, mature coconut replace rice ina delicate miniature sushi roll.Further along the shoreline – via a picturesquewooden jetty that traverses the aquamarine harbour– you arrive at Walker D’Plank (named after theresort’s owner), where you’ll discover Oakley runningthe kitchen. The Fijian-born chef was taught to cookby her Sri Lankan grandmother and brings an innateunderstanding and balance of spice to her craft.Here, there are no menus. Oakley likes to keepthings loose and will customise every dish to a guest’spersonal palate, joining you tableside before the mealto tease out what flavours you enjoy and the type offood you feel like eating. Before long, you’ll be feastingon some of your favourite flavours, as a series of streetfood-inspired dishes land on the table.And between courses, you’ll find yourself staringinto the hypnotic blue waters and once again slipping into that most peculiar of states: total serene and obscene relaxation.lFiji Airways fliesdirect to Nadi andSuva from selectAustralian cities.Private transfersto the island viaseaplane orhelicopter areavailable fromboth airports.fijiairways.comStayPrivate villasstart from $3245per night for twoadults, includingall meals and adedicated nannyfor childrenunder three.kokomoislandfiji.comFrom top left:Kokomo’s apiary;the boardwalk toWalker D’Plank;coconuts areused in mealsand naturopathy.Opposite: thekitchen and livingspace in a three-bedroom villa.GettingthereGOURMET TRAVELLER133PHOTOGRAPHY KOKOMO PRIVATE ISLAND (VILLA BEDROOM).

Do you want to knowwhat progress feels like? Sometimes, it’s a flutter of elation, as we realise that we’re getting to do, see, hear or think something we barely dared to hope for. This might be finally getting our heels to touch the ground in downward dog, or watching historically polarised world leaders shaking hands on TV. But, just as often, progress feels less pleasant. Sometimes, it’s a pang of shame, as we realise we’re slightly horrified by something we were cheerfully doing six months or a few years ago. This might be a discriminatory joke we used to make, or it might be the developed world’s collective disregard for climate change.In some cases, shame is a signof social progress, indicating we’rebetter people than we used to be.Uncomfortable as it is, we shouldlearn to revel in this particularflavour of shame, rather thansuppressing the sensation. Weshould be telling friends and familyabout the dull ethical ache in our bellies, and asking if they feel that sting of social advancement, too. Right now, the shame I’m stewing in (along with many other avid travellers around the globe) concerns air travel. It seems mere months ago that Instagram was brimming with snaps of passports and boarding passes artfully arranged next to matcha lattes and Smythson document wallets, as influencers and celebrities jostled to prove how “jet set” they were. Today, the Flygskam, or “flight-shaming”, movement popularised by climate activist Greta Thunberg and Olympic medallist Björn Ferry, has made excessive air travel seem about as socially acceptable and groovy assmoking indoors while blaring RKelly tunes, slurping cola througha plastic throwaway straw andloudly praising Harvey Weinstein’seye for new talent.Coldplay, who recentlyreleased their eighth studio album,announced they were taking a breakThe art of... feel-good flyingThe “flight-shame” movement has well and truly taken off, writes ANNA HART. But is encouraging travellers to swear off air travel really the answer?from touring until ta more “sustainable”“We’re taking time oyear or two to worknot only our tour bebut how can it be activelybeneficial,” said relentlesslyright-on singer Chris Martin. I know that, to some minds, all this collective hand-wringing about carbon emissions will seem showy and insincere, but I’m all for it. Whoever said “fake it ’till you make it” might not have been thinking about human decency, but if you pretend to be a good person hard enough, one morning you will wake up a good person. When it comes to air travel, progress has well and truly been made, and every travel obsessiveI know is wondering how we cancontinue to see and experiencethe world without destroying it.But I’m not adding my voice tothose calling upon travellers to takea “flight-free pledge” and groundourselves entirely. Swearing off airtravel for life is a noble stance, buthey could find” way to do so.over the nextout how can,e sustainable, lAnna is a travel writer and author of the travel memoir Departures.@annadothartILLUSTRATIONS GETTY IMAGES.

one that most people will consider infeasible and a tad alienating. If you have family or friends far away, if you trade internationally, if you are an artist, doctor, aid worker, scientist, performer or academic, or simply if you count travel as one of your greatest passions, going flight-free may well seem prohibitively detrimental and potentially damaging to your life and the lives of others. And at this stage, we really can’t risk losing people to defeatism – that poison to progress. But if a majority of people make moderate improvements to their carbon footprint, this will have a much greater net impact than a marginal group adopting an extreme position. Most of us would be willing to admit we’ve become too casual about air travel. And this “why not?” attitude to flying is exactly what was intended by the low-cost carriers that landed on the scene about 15 years ago. For nearly two decades, budget airlines have tirelessly marketed the idea that the only consequence of taking frequent short-haul flights is fewer dollars in the bank. Now, humanity is once again in the unenviable position of having to relinquish its current, comfortable mindset and adjust to a new, less convenient one, even though it’s not a new mindset at all; it’s the one we had 20 years ago, which we now realise was right, after all. Just as we’ve hauled organic-farming methods back from the recesses of history, so, too, we’re having to reinstate our healthy respect for air travel. Because sometimes, progress means going back to the way things used to be. What I’m resolving to do, in 2020, is to simply treat air travel with the respect it deserves. To regard every flight as a privilege, to travel more mindfully, to ensure that every single flight I take really counts. This means I still get to visit my family in California and Ireland, and I still get one or two life-changing flights to explore new and exotic locations, perhaps Bolivia or Vanuatu. It also means embracing rail travel in Europe and America, packing a good book to see me through the 16-hour train journey from London to Austria this month. On my 52-hour Amtrak trip between Los Angeles and New Orleans in April, perhaps I’ll write a damn book. Looking at the year ahead, my aim is to get my flight count down to less than five round-trips annually. I know that, to some people, this will already seem excessive, but the amount we fly varies enormously from person to person, based on their individual circumstances: their professional field, the whereabouts of their loved ones and, to a lesser extent, their hobbies and passions.People travel differently for various reasons, and it’s up to everyone to feel that pang of flight shame and make the adjustment that seems sane and sustainable to them – and find a way of flying that feels good to them. Because sustainability, well, it needs to be sustainable. ●GOURMET TRAVELLER135The art of travel

By the time Ben Shewry’s fishing guide, Scott McNeil,has arrived at this sleepy Kapiti Coast location, the pinkstreaks of the morning’s sunrise have bled into blue. Withan early start from Wellington, Shewry has had plenty oftime to contemplate the Kapiti Marine Reserve, which separatesthe mainland from the wildlife rich Kapiti Island conservation‐zone. Bar the odd piece of driftwood, the beach is empty, andwhile the wind is unusually still, the water is chilly.As ambassador to the Australian Marine ConservationSociety’s Good Fish project, Shewry has plenty in commonwith Scott McNeil and his wife Maaike, whose small wild foods‐providore business, Awatoru, supplies many of Wellington’s toprestaurants. The McNeils have an ethical, small scale approach to‐sourcing crab, tuna, abalone, wild venison, honey and more, andthey know all of their producers personally. It’s a philosophy thatresonates deeply with Shewry.Growing up on a coastal farm in Taranaki, on the west coastof New Zealand’s North Island, gave Shewry the privilege of beingexposed to the flavours of fresh food from an early age, andsparked his ambition at the age of just five to become a chef.Indeed, his culinary curiosity has done wonders for his careerand for the Australian restaurant industry. It has also affirmedhis belief that unless we collectively adopt a sustainable approachto produce, there will be nothing left for future generations.Shewry’s most recent return to Wellington, the city where hestarted his career, has given him the opportunity to connect withlike minded chefs and restaurateurs who share his passion for‐sourcing seafood with genuine integrity.Taking time out from his restaurant gives Attica chef and ownerBen Shewry the chance to connect with like minded Wellingtonians‐making waves on the Wellington food scene.WILD WEEKENDSSEA, FARM, TABLEIn keeping with his focus on Indigenous ingredients, Shewry finds synergy with chef Monique Fiso from Hiakai in Wellington. Fiso’s passionate and experimental approach to a menu based on locally foraged native ingredients has been heartily embraced by Wellingtonians. HIAKAI

CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Artichoke salad at Rita; Alric Hansen; Monique Fiso;Ben Shewry.ORTEGA:Pan-friedflounder.See more of Ben Shewry’s Wellington trip at gourmettraveller.com.auOR TEG ANo visit to New Zealand’s capital is complete without a meal at Ortega Fish Shack. Co owner and head chef Mark Limacher’s ‐infectious enthusiasm for great food, wine and hospitality is reflected throughout the restaurant, wine list and menu, with a tight crew of family and staff keeping locals coming back for more. Sourcing seafood from partners like Awatoru, Ortega delivers a fresh, wholesome and quintessentially Wellington experience. Ortega Fish Shack, 16 Majoribanks St, Mount Victoria, +64 4382 9559, ortega.co.nzRIT AHand painted across the entry to Rita in Aro ‐Valley are the words ‘This heavenly place’. It’s an apt description for this bistro, which is infused with love and passion from co owner ‐Paul Schrader and chefs and co owners Kelda ‐Hains and Matt Hawkes. Hains took the words from a letter from her grandmother, Rita, encouraging her to make haste on opening a restaurant where everyone could enjoy her food. That has been achieved in just a few short years, and Rita the restaurant has fast become a city favourite. The menu changes daily based on what’s in season, what’s available from local suppliers, and what’s flourishing in the kitchen garden, which in typical Wellington style is perched on the hill behind the diminutive cottage. Here rhubarb and lemon verbena thrive in the sunny weather, and it’s clear how much the team’s sunny disposition, too, contributes to Rita’s success.“I just want to feed people well and give them a really nice experience that nourishes their soul,” says Hains. “I want them to enjoy the best of home cooking like sitting around –someone’s table and having a beautiful meal.” Rita, 89 Aro St, Aro Valley, +64 4385 4555, rita.co.nzHIGHW A TER EA TER YTucked at the harbour end of Cuba Street, Highwater Eatery offers Wellingtonians all day dining in the experienced hands of ‐Alric Hansen and Ben Farrant. Having returned from Melbourne, where they owned Small Victories in North Carlton, their ambitions are high, like the high tide ‐mark that swamped Wellington in 1843 – hence the name. Produce comes first, and it is predominantly organic, including the meat, which is free range and organically ‐raised. Expect house baked sourdough, ‐house churned butter, and a menu that ‐reflects the best of fresh New Zealand ingredients chosen with conscience. Highwater Eatery, 54 Cuba St, Te Aro, +64 4210 4420, highwatereatery.co.nzFiso’s culinary ambitions also date from early in life: she began her career with a sandwich van. From those humble beginnings she progressed to the kitchens of New York, then returned to Wellington to rise to the self directed challenge of ‐cooking with ingredients that until now have been relatively little used in New Zealand’s restaurants. Her goal has also given her a previously unexplored connection with her Maori heritage.“When I first started cooking like this I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. I needed to see how far I could take these ingredients because we don’t have a book telling us what to do. It’s a blank canvas really,” says Fiso. Hiakai, 40 Wallace St, Mount Cook, +64 4938 7360, hiakai.co.nzA Go u r m et Tr av e lle r p r o m ot i o n

Of f t he

gridA stay at an eco hut in the NSWRiverina and a tour of the region’swineries makes for an ideal weekendescape, writesKARLIE VERKERK.Photography GUY WILLIMENT

It’s the first time in a long time that Ihaven’t been woken by an alarm. Betweenmidweek meetings, early-morning gymsessions and weekend rendezvous, thenot-so-soothing tune of cosmic chimeshas become a perpetual sound in myday-to-day life. But not today. It’s just shy of 6amand a deep, resonant mooing breaks my slumber.I’m at Kimo Estate, a 2833-hectare farm inGundagai dotted with three luxurious eco huts, oneof which I’m calling home for the weekend. Perchedhigh on a hilltop, the simple A-frame structure iscompletely off the grid: no electricity or mod-cons areto be found. The lights are solar-powered, and wateris collected from an underground rainwater tankthen heated by solar power. There’s a fireplace, too.I roll to my left and watch the sunrise throughthe hut’s low, louvred windows. The sky turns a goldenhue and the world slowly comes into focus, includingthe herd of cattle grazing in the paddock below. With360-degree views of the Murrumbidgee River flatsand its mountainous perimeter, there’s plenty tokeep your eyes occupied. I could lie here all day, but breakfast is begging to be cooked. A cooler filled with a bounty of fresh, localproduce – eggs, bacon, sourdough, balsamic-marinatedtomatoes, homemade baked beans – and a compact gasbarbecue are set up under the eave outside. I flick theignition and get frying, sautéing, toasting. Food seemsto taste better when it’s cooked and eaten al fresco,especially when it’s paired with views as good as these.Although there is ample supply of tea and coffeein the cupboard, we’re whisked into town for whatis said to be the best brew on the Hume Highwaybetween Sydney and Melbourne. Matthew Lucas,owner of The Coffee Pedaler in Gundagai, emergeswith a selection for us to sample; he calls it thecoffee appreciation experience. There’s an espresso,long black and flat white made with ethically andsustainably sourced beans.The caffeine begins to take effect as we drive toTumblong Hills winery, a 15-minute jaunt from thetown centre. The vineyard is surprisingly verdant andI forget for a moment that almost all of NSW is indrought. Vigneron Simon Robertson tells us thatthe deep volcanic soils, mountain-derived water andkatabatic winds (downslope winds flowing from highelevations) on the western foothills of the SnowyMountains create an ideal winemaking environment.We make our way up to the top of the propertyand into Robertson’s home. There’s barely enough timeto ditch our dust-covered shoes before a tasting glass isthrust into our hands. “Let’s kick things off with thefiano,” he says. Bright lemon yellow in colour, it hasaromas of ginger and jasmine flower. It’s zingy and crispand the perfect antidote to a 32-degree day. So, too, isa splash of the Sangiovese rosé, which is poured next.The fiano and rosé are both highly palatabledrops, but the combination of rich soil and coolnights means that Gundagai is best for producingfull-bodied red wines: shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, ➤GOURMET TRAVELLER 140

Old shearing sheds at KimoEstate. Left from top: dinner on theverandah; corn fritters with smokedtrout; and the hot tub at Sweeney’shut, all at Kimo Estate. Opposite,from top: JR’s hut; and Sweeney’shut, both at Kimo Estate. PREVIOUSPAGES scenery at Kimo Estate.The sky turns a golden hue and the worldslowly comes into focus, including the herd of cattle grazing in the paddock below.

Clockwise fromtop left: Truenorthhelicopter tours; the SnowyMountainsScheme;Tumblong Hillsrosé. Opposite:TumblongHills winery.in particular. So we sniff, swirl and sip, and waitpatiently for the bottles in the centre of the table.The shiraz is lush with flavours of cherry and plum,while the cabernet sauvignon tastes of ripe blackberry,dried herb and anise. They’re confident, juicy wines thatrequire a rich meal and a much cooler day – or night.With a bottle wedged under each arm, we returnto Kimo Estate to one of the property’s two originalcottages. A table is dressed for dinner on the backverandah, where candles in decorative lanterns andbranches of silvery gum adorn a crisp white tablecloth. I repeat: food tastes better when eaten al fresco.Our private chef has designed a three-coursemenu to highlight the best produce from the region.Corn fritters are topped with delicate flakes of locallycaught and smoked trout. Lamb is braised until fall-apart tender and served alongside smooth roasted-cauliflower purée. And a perfectly wobbly panna cottais scattered with plump blueberries; the berry-forwardTumblong Hills cab sav a more than suitable match.As the sun disappears behind the ridge, stars beginto materialise. Stomach full and cheeks rosy, I sidle overto the grass and lie down under the Milky Way hopingto map every glistening speck. One final sip of wine andI’m ready to retreat to my eco hut. No alarm required.“Who’s thirsty?” asks our pilot. We’vejust set off on our Truenorth “Vine toWine” tour, which will see us explorethe Tumbarumba wine region, by chopper. As I soakup a bird’s-eye view of Gundagai, I wonder if I should’veset an alarm after all; surely this is a dream. Narrowrivers wind their way through tree-lined paddocksin every shade of green and bronze.We head south over Tumut and cruise past themajestic reservoirs of the Snowy Mountain Scheme before arriving in picturesque Tumbarumba. GOURMET TRAVELLER 142

There are more than a dozen vineyards in the regionand they’re all placed within a short drive, or helicopterhop, of each other. At 850 metres above sea level, theterroir is ideal for growing cool-climate grapes such aspinot noir, chardonnay, riesling and sauvignon blanc.Our aerial Uber swoops over Johansen Wines beforelowering us into the paddock where we’re greeted byowners Tom and Helle Southwell, their two young kids,plus Helle’s parents who live up the road. Tom workedin IT and Helle as a chemist until almost two yearsago when they chose to move back to the area to becloser to family – and to make wine, of course.Their philosophy is simple: to understand andrespect the land, and to hand-pick select parcels ofgrapes to create the best possible wines in the mostsustainable way. With thirsts needing to be quenched,we swiftly disembark our ride and march over to thecellar door, a beautifully converted shearing shed.Tom pours us a glass of 2016 sparkling and I feelinstantly replenished. With aromas of fresh breadand flavours of green apple and strawberry, it comesas no surprise this wine garnered a gold medal at theAustralian Cool Climate Wine Show. A quick detourto meet the family’s rotund horses and we’re off again.Until now, I’ve never had vegan wine – or anythat I’m aware of. “Isn’t all wine vegan-friendly?” I askAdrian Brayne, owner of Obsession Wines, as a glassof rosé enters my line of sight. No is the simple answer.Here, at Tumbarumba’s highest vineyard,everything follows organic principles and not a singleanimal is harmed in the winemaking process. Grapesare picked carefully by hand and even sheep arebrought in to maintain the grass around the vines.The 10-hectare property is immaculate and flauntsthe best views we’ve seen from the ground so far,particularly if you stand at the top of the block in frontof the winemaking shed. Visit the cellar door duringthe March harvest and watch the machines in action.In comparison to the Barossa or Hunter Valley, theRiverina may not be as well known, but it’s equally, ifnot more bucolic. And although the vines are not asmature, winemakers are producing drops that are justas delicious and exciting – their new-world approachand eco-conscious attitudes shine through.I take a sip of rosé and my tastebuds flood withfamiliar flavours of Turkish delight. Great wine? Tick.Glorious surrounds? Tick. All served with a side of sustainability. I’ll have a top-up, please.●Gundagai is a50-minute drivefrom WaggaWagga, or fourhours’ drive fromSydney and fivehours’ drivefrom Melbourne.StayEco huts at KimoEstate start from$350 per night.kimoestate.comGettingthereAs we go to print, we learnedthat bushfires have torn throughJohansen and Obsession wineries,and continue to burn in Tumbarumba.To support the affected wineries, youcan purchase their wine online.johansenwines.com.au;obsessionwines.com.au

GOURMET TRAVELLER 144It may be one of the world’ssmallest capitals, but thisFaroese city has plenty ofcharm, and access to the islands’otherworldly natural beauty,writesEMMA HOLLAND.TórshavnIn the summer months, catch the dailyferry from Sørvágur to Mykines to spotlarge colonies of nesting puffins. Hikethe narrow trail to the lighthouse forbirdwatching and epic panoramic views out to sea.visitfaroeislands.comMultiple airlinesfly from Australiancapitals to Europe.The national Faroeseairline, AtlanticAirways, flies directfrom Reykjavik,Copenhagen,Edinburgh andParis to Vágar.atlanticairways.comGettingthere

GOURMET TRAVELLER145EATSTAYSHOPMake Tórshavn your base and drive (or get a lift) across the 18 major islands alongscenic winding roads past verdant valleys, countless waterfalls and roaming sheep.There are many hiking trails to choose from: one of the most popular is toSørvágsvatnlake– it’s an easy walk to reach surreal views of the lake, which appears as an opticalillusion perched atop steep cliffs and the sea. For a more challenging trek, follow the oldpostal route fromBøur to Gásadalur(population 18) for views of the tiny cliffside village and the picturesqueMúlafossur waterfall (above), which cascades into the sea. Barbara Fish HouseThis Spanish-inspired tapasrestaurant, located in oneof the city’s oldest buildings,transports diners to 16th-centuryTórshavn. At Barbara Fish House,the atmosphere is cosy, and themenu highlights the region’sseafood (above). Expect the likesof monkfish ceviche, blue musselsand grapefruit, or lemon solewith capers, rosemary and brown butter.4-6 Gongin, barbara.fo KoksAn evening at Michelin-starredKoks starts with an apéritif in itsfermenting shed. Next, dinersare taken on a short, bumpy driveto the restaurant, located in an18th-century farmhouse. Executivechef Poul Andrias Ziska’s 20-course menu focuses on ingredientssourced from the surroundinglandscape, and might includedishes such as lamb leg, fermentedin the salty sea air; mahogany clamwith sea herbs; or daisies, rhubarb,and a grass gel made from therestaurant’s turf roof.Frammi við Gjónna, Leynavatn, koks.foMikkellerThe newest outpost of experimentalDanish brewer Mikkeller is locatedin a 500-year-old wooden house.A chalkboard above the small barlists the 16 craft beers on tap, andMikkeller & Friends cans and bottlesrange from IPAs and blondes tobarley wine ale. Staff are friendlyand knowledgeable, and if you’rehungry, a short menu from BarbaraFish House next door is availableto order in. 2 Gongin, mikkeller.foGudrun & GudrunFashion label Gudrun & Gudrun is thechampion for luxe, sustainable knitwear.Designs are mostly hand-knitted inthe homes of Faroese, Jordanian andPeruvian women, and all Faroese yarncomes from sheep used for meat toensure no wastage. Stop by the shopto stock up on warm knits for your stay.13 Niels Finsens Gøta, gudrungudrun.comHotel HavgrímHoused in an old Commodore’s home onthe shore is Hotel Havgrím. The design ofthe 14 rooms is inspired by the fjord withdeep blues and nautical maps. In somerooms, large windows look out to the seaand sky. The hotel is powered by energysourced from geothermal boreholes,and breakfast has a strong focus on localproduce.14 Yvir við Strond, hotelhavgrim.foSEELeft andabove:housesand viewsin Tórshavn. PHOTOGRAPHY TREVOR PINCHIN (HOUSE & WATERFALL), BEINTA Á TORKILSHEYGGI (BARBARA FISH HOUSE) & GETTY IMAGES (MAIN).City hitlist

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Unyoked’sCoralie cabin,SouthernHighlands, NSW.See p24 for details.Stay3413Neutral gearMake a chic yet conscious style choice withhicalfashioninearthygreenandorangetones.11210eth8251Stella Logo shoulder bag, $1070, fromStella McCartney.2Holly Ryan goldearrings set with pearls and amber, $572,from Farfetch.3Arlow denim skirt, $295,from Aje.4Short-sleeve gathered dress,$520, from Matin.5Matteau bikini top,$135, and briefs, $135, from Net-a-Porter.6Stella McCartney sunglasses, $436,from Farfetch.7Rejina Pyo sweater,$870, from Net-a-Porter.8The Millivegan sandal, $320, from Rafa.9Goldsigndenim culotte, $455.58, from Net-a-Porter.10Belt, $169, from Ginger & Smart.11Baez balloon-sleeve dress, $420, fromShona Joy.12Hunza G swimsuit, $258,from Farfetch.13Sapphire Sun goldnecklace, $1372, from Lark & Berry.67911S tylePHOTOGRAPHY DECLAN BLACKALL (CABIN). MERCHANDISING LAURA JACOBS.GOURMET TRAVELLER 150