Australian Gourmet Traveller (February 2020)

S T U F F E D Z U C C H IN IF LO W E R SpEMMA MCCASKILL’SZERO-WASTE MENUSUSTAINABLE LUXEPlant-based chef recipes + sustainable seafoodCambodia’s Shinta Mani Wild + Fiji’s Kokomo IslandF2020AU$NZ$10.99ISSUEGREENTHE







www.abercrombiekent.com.auPIONEERS OF SUSTAINABLE LUXURY TRAVELLuxury Tailor-Made & Small Group Journeys | Luxury Expedition CruisesAbercrombie & Kent invented the luxury tented photographic safari in the early 1960s, and has led the travel industry in a transformation toward greater equity and sustainability in the many decades since. In the 1970s, we established Abercrombie & Kent Philanthropy, dedicated to positively impacting lives and livelihoods in the extraordinary places our guests travel. From Africa to Asia, Latin America to the Antarctic, we now work with partner communities on more than 40 education, health care, conservation and enterprise development projects, ensuring host communities can play a meaningful role in protecting their own most valuable natural and human assets. Take an enriching journey with Abercrombie & Kent, delivering positive outcomes for communities and incredible travel experiences for guests.Talk to your travel agent or call Abercrombie & Kent on 1300 851 800.





Dive deep belowSoar above and beyondFAREWHERE LUXURY meets DISCOVERYWith lands of pristine beauty and breathtaking wildlife, travelling to Antarctica is a long held dream for many. Plan your adventure to the fi nal frontiers of this southern continent, go further and dream bigger. From our passionate Discovery Team members, to the two on-board helicopters and submarine and a wealth of world-class features, Scenic Eclipse is the new benchmark in ultra-luxury cruising.We invite you on board Scenic Eclipse, The World’s First Discovery Yachts™.

Scenic Whisky BarIntimate and luxurious, with every featureyou could wish for, Scenic Eclipse has beendesigned with the guest in mind. Delightingboth the keen explorer and elegant traveller, the World’s First Discovery YachtsTMwill surpass all of your expectations.Anthony Laver, Group General Manager,Sales and Marketing, Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours*Conditions apply. Offers are valid for new bookings only on selected departures. Offers are valid until the 28/02/2020 or until sold out. These terms and conditions are additional to the terms and conditions contained in ScenicEclipse Worldwide Discovery Voyages 2020/2022 brochure and on scenic.com.au/terms. All bookings are subject to Scenic’ s full terms and conditions. Prices are in Australian Dollars. Advertised prices includes Early Payment Discount and guests must book and pay in full by 28/02/2020 for the discount to apply. Antarctica in Depth price based on Category DD. Antarctica, South Georgia and Falkland Islands price based on 20 November 2020 departure category DA as at 02/12/2019. Conditions for Air Credit: Flights must be booked with Scenic. Air Credit offer is valid for new bookings only, maximum of 1 air credit per person per booking. Single occupancy suites receive half the ed. Air credit offer can be combined with Earlybird Fare as marked on selected itineraries, Scenic Club Members, Welcome Home, Vouchers and with Members Introduce a Friend vouchers. fiper stateroom air credit amount speci Offers cannot be combined with Future Travel Credit, expo offers, Scenic Club Member offers published in Magazine and other mailings. Offers are non-transferable and cannot be altered or exchanged for cash, or other goods or services. Any unused portion of the offer will be forfeited. Voucher can only be used once. Once a booking is made including the voucher code, the voucher expires and cannot be reinstated or re-issued. All drinks are included ne and vintage wines, champagnes and spirits. ‡Additional cost for Spa treatments. #Helicopter and submarine excursions are available at additional cost. Must be booked and paid on fiexcept for a very small number of rare, board. Excursions are strictly limited and subject to availability, weight restrictions, medical approval and weather & ice conditions. For full conditions visit scenic.com.au/terms. Scenic ABN 85 002 715 602Truly All-Inclusive LuxuryOnly 200 guestsSpacious all-verandah suitesButler service1:1 staff-to-guest ratione diningfiUp to 10 dining experiences, from casual to All meals and premium branded beverages†Specialist Polar Discovery TeamImmersive Scenic Discovery excursions#Indulgent 550m Senses Spa, gym, yoga and Pilates studio2‡ights, airport transfers and tippingflInternal DrakePassageFalkland Islands(Islas Malvinas)South Shetland IslandsAntarctic PeninsulaElephant IslandUshuaiaArgentina18BuenosAires1South GeorgiaUPTO$4,000PER COUPLEAIR CREDIT*DrakePassageBeagle ChannelAntarctic PeninsulaAntarctic CircleLemaire ChannelWeddell SeaPort LockroySouth Orkney Islands11ArgentinaUshuaiaBuenosAires1South Shetland IslandsDeparting 20 Nov 2020 and 8 Dec 2020Buenos Aires > Buenos Aires (201S)Includes Earlybird Savings from $6,950* per coupleightsfl20 days from $29,565*pp including charter Buenos Aires - Ushuaia returnDeparting 9 Nov 2020Buenos Aires > Buenos Aires (101S)Includes Earlybird Savings from $4,510* per couple 1ights fl13 days from $18,025*pp including charter Buenos Aires - Ushuaia returnANTARCTICA IN DEPTHANTARCTICA, SOUTH GEORGIA& FALKLAND ISLANDSOrder a copy of our new brochure collection nowCALL 1300 947 488 Visit sceniceclipse.com or visit your nearest Scenic agent|

JUNGLEBOOKA new raft ofadventures islaunching insouth-westCambodia.PARADISEFOUNDFiji’s KokomoPrivate Islandgives newmeaning torelaxation.Travel118128GARDENSTATESeven chefscelebrate thebeauty ofplant-basedcooking.TOWARDSZEROChef EmmaMcCaskillshares a holisticmenu aimed atreducing waste.THINKOUTSIDETHE NETCast your netwider withsustainableseafood.GREATOUTDOORSHartwood’s EricWerner sharesbarbecue dishesfrom his book,TheOutdoor Kitchen.PUREDELIGHTRecipes fromAmy Chaplin’sWhole FoodCookingEvery Day.Food8090100108112NATURALSELECTIONS AlexandraCarltondiscovers howto reduce ourcarbon footprint.NOT SOFANTASTICIs a plastic-free kitchenpossible? LeeTran Lam looksat sustainability. BRAVE NEWWORLDMeet the luxurybrands focusingon purposeover profit fora better future. Features606670WORKERBEESBees play akey role in ourecosystem, andgive us nature’ssweetest treat.OFF THEGRIDA tour of theNSW Riverinaregion’s wineriesmakes for anideal escape.57138FEB10PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR (HONEY). STYLING VIVIEN WALSH (HONEY). ON THE COVER: ALL PROPS STYLIST’S OWN.

RecipeLisa FeatherbyPhotographyAlicia TaylorStylingVivien WalshSUBSCRIBEmagshop.com.au/australian-gourmet-travellerON THE COVERStuffed zucchini flowerswith basil sauce (p85)Regulars15EDITOR’S LETTER16CONTRIBUTORS17SIX DISHESOur favourite plates. 19 NEWSThe latest from thefood and travel scenes.28HOW I TRAVELEnvironmental advocate Fabien Cousteau.30HOW I EATZero-waste eventorganiser Andy King.35FIVE OF A KINDNut butters.36COMMUNITY X KYLIEDwayne Bannon-Harrison.38MELBOURNE REVIEWLagoon Dining.40SYDNEY REVIEWNomad.42DRINKSMcLaren Vale’ssustainable wines.45FASTMidweek meals.52MASTERCLASSNigiri sushi.54ANATOMY OF A DISHSaag paneer.76SUBSCRIBE126LOCAL TONGUEChristian F Puglisi inCopenhagen, Denmark.134THE ART OF TRAVELFeel-good flying.144CITY HITLISTTórshavn, Faroe Islands.150STYLEEthical fashion.151BEAUTYEco-friendly products.153HOMEStyle, design, technology.154OBJECTS OF DESIREKitchen tools.ShintaMani Wild,Cambodiap118This issue ofGourmet Travelleris published by Bauer Media Pty Ltd (Bauer). Bauer may use and disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with your requested products or services and to keep you informedof other Bauer publications, products, services and events. Our Privacy Policy is located at bauer-media.com.au/privacy/. It also sets out how you can access or correct your personal information and lodge a complaint. Bauer may disclose your personalinformation offshore to its owners, joint venture partners, service providers and agents located throughout the world, including in New Zealand, USA, the Philippines and the European Union. In addition, this issue may contain Reader Offers, being offers,competitions or surveys. Reader Offers may require you to provide personal information to enter or to take part. Personal information collected for Reader Offers may be disclosed by us to service providers assisting Bauer in the conduct of the ReaderOffer and to other organisations providing special prizes or offers that are part of the Reader Offer. An opt-out choice is provided with a Reader Offer. Unless you exercise that opt-out choice, personal information collected for Reader Offers may alsobe disclosed by us to other organisations for use by them to inform you about other products, services or events or to give to other organisations that may use this information for this purpose. If you require further information, please contact Bauer’s Privacy Officer either by email at [email protected] or mail to Privacy Officer, Bauer Media Pty Ltd, 54 Park St, Sydney, NSW 2000.ACKNOWLEDGEMENTOF COUNTRYGourmet Travelleracknowledgesthe Gadigal people of theEora Nation as the traditionalcustodians of the place wenow call Sydney, where thismagazine is published.GourmetTravelleralso pays respectsto Elders past and present.GOURMET TRAVELLER11

parisi.com.auDesigned and Made inItaly by Newform, the O’RAMA Kitchen Mixer is the latest evolutionin kitchen mixers. Designed to refect today’s preference for dynamism, the movable spray is secured by an innovative magnetic click-lock.Max Allen, Helen Anderson, Madeleine Bentley, Alexandra Carlton, Fiona Donnelly,Michael Harden, Anna Hart, Kylie Kwong, Lee Tran Lam, Jessica Rigg, Maggie Scardifield, David Sly, Claudia Stephenson, Max VeenhuyzenIntern Ismat AwanContributorsFoodLisa FeatherbyNick Banbury Food DirectorContributing Food EditorEditorial officeGPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australiaphone+61 2 9282 8758emailaskgourmet@bauer-media.com.auwebsitegourmettraveller.com.auInstagram@gourmettravellerPublished by Bauer Media Pty Limited. ABN 18 053 273 546. 54-58 Park St, Sydney, NSW, 2000,(02) 9282 8000. The trade markGourmet Travelleris the property of Bauer Media Pty Limited and isused under licence. ©2019 All rights reserved. Printed by Ovato, 8 Priddle St, Warwick Farm, NSW, 2170.National distribution by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd. 1300 650 666.Gourmet Travellercannotaccept unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. If such materials are sent to the magazine, they will not bereturned. Price in Australia, $9.99; in New Zealand, NZ$10.99; digital edition, $3.99. Subscription rates:1 year (12 issues) $74.99 via automatic renewal; 1 year (12 issues) $79.99 via credit card or cheque;NZ (airspeed) 1 year, $120; overseas (airspeed) 1 year, $180; digital edition monthly, $2.99; 6 months, $9.99; 1 year, $19.99. Vol 20 No 2 ISSN 1034-9006SubscriptionsGourmet Traveller, Reply Paid 5252, Sydney, NSW 2001,Australia, phone 136 116, email [email protected] HollandYvonne C LamJordan KretchmerGeorgie MeredithSubeditorDigital EditorWriterWriter & Editorial CoordinatorJoanna HunkinHannah BlackmoreKarlie VerkerkEditorActing Creative DirectorDeputy EditorRhyl Heavener(02) 8114 9420Kate Orsborn(02) 9282 8364Cate Gazal(02) 8116 9342Karen Holmes(02) 9282 8733Jaclyn Clements(03) 9823 6341Will Jamison(03) 9823 6301Judy Taylor(07) 3101 6636Clare Catt(02) 8116 9341Sally Jefferys(02) 9282 8321Dominic Roy(02) 9282 8691AdvertisingCommercial ManagerAdvertising Production ManagerSenior Events ManagerDirector of Sales – NSWDirector of Sales – Vic, SA, WAVictoria Head of Direct SalesQueensland Head of SalesCreative DirectorProduction ControllerAdvertising Production CoordinatorLouise CankettJillian HoganSarah WebsterDariya KaingMaddie BowkerSean McLintockEllie XuerebJesvin [email protected], Research & CirculationMarketing DirectorSenior Marketing ManagerBrand ManagerCirculation ManagerSenior Research AnalystGroup Subscriptions ManagerSenior Subscriptions Campaign ManagerSubscriptions Campaign ManagerSyndication inquiriesBauer MediaBrendon HillSally EaglePaul GardinerJane WaterhouseGeorgina BromfieldChief Executive OfficerGeneral Manager PublishingCommercial Director AustraliaGeneral Manager Media SolutionsBusiness ManagerArtLaura Jacobs Art DirectorMelissa Martin Senior Designer





Kimo Estate,Gundagai, NSWp138collective. We all have a responsibilityto change our behaviour.You will also see we have featuredthe New South Wales’ Riverina regionin this issue, an area directly affected bythe fires. This is not an oversight on ourpart but rather a deliberate decision.The Riverina, like so many of the areasaffected by the fires, relies on touristdollars to keep local businesses alive.Domestic tourism will be essential inhelping these communities rebuild andflourish once again. So start planningahead and spend generously whereyou can. Your support is [email protected] //FOLLOW@GOURMETTRAVELLER //ONLINEGOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AUW hen we first beganplanning this issue fourmonths ago, none of uscould have foreseen howcalamitous this year’s bushfire seasonwould be. It has been a heartbreaking and horrific start to the year.It also gives new weight andrelevance to this issue’s theme, which issustainability. Our intention was alwaysto highlight and champion the people,brands and businesses that are activelystepping up to employ more sustainablepractices. And to encourage everyoneto play their part; to try somethingnew and, hopefully, introduce morethoughtful behaviours into your life.That doesn’t mean becoming a full-timevegan or giving up international travel,but rather, thinking more consciouslyabout how you eat and how you travel, and making small changes thatcollectively will have a big impact.If this summer has taught usanything, it is that climate change isa collective issue that affects all of us,regardless of our politics. It followsthen, that any solutions must also be Rottnest Island, WA;Laura Jacobs, art directorThe yearly pilgrimage to Rottnest Islanddid not disappoint with days spenton the beach and nights enjoying thecatch of the day. I wouldn’t want tobe anywhere else.@laurajanejacobsPort Stephens, NSW;Joanna Hunkin, editorA weekend at Port Stephens wasmade even better thanks to Bannisters’pet-friendly policy, which meant my bestpal Wilbur could join.@hunkies_newsWhere we’ve beenLord Howe Island, NSW;Jordan Kretchmer, writerThis World Heritage-listed isle is teemingwith endemic flora and fauna. To trulyget among it all, hike up Mount Gower. Itoffers the best views of the whole island,and a serious sense of accomplishment at its summit.@jordisnacksGOURMET TRAVELLER15PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY (PORTRAIT) & GUY WILLIMENT (KIMO ESTATE).Editor’ s letter

JESSICA RIGGwriterA chef’s guide, p126As founder of new globaldining guideThe Local Tongue,Jessica Rigg sits down with topchefs and fellow food writersto get the lowdown on wherethey love to eat and drink intheir home city. For this issue,she interviews Copenhagenchef and restaurateur ChristianF Puglisi. “Christian’s list ofhis favourite local restaurantsreflects everything he standsfor: sustainable, seasonaland organic food,” she says.MARNIE HAWSONphotographerTowards zero, p90Marnie Hawson switched frombeing an environmental scientistto a photographer six years ago.She walks the walk when itcomes to being environmentallymindful in her life, and foundgreat unison in shooting for thisissue. “Being a purpose-drivenphotographer, I’m passionateabout working with like-mindedpeople,” she says. “CapturingMcCaskill’s ingenious menuwas the perfect shoot for myGT photography début.”VIVIEN WALSHstylistGarden state, p80Making the transition frominteriors to food styling, VivienWalsh flexed her skills to ensurethis issue’s plant-based recipeslooked bountiful and fresh.“I loved being able to run withmy ‘more is more’ philosophy,and play with colour and texture,”she says. When Walsh isn’tmaking things look beautiful,you’ll find her on Sydney’sNorthern Beaches spendingtime with her husband, theirthree kids and dog Huckleberry. EMMA McCASKILLchefTowards zero, p90During her 15-year career, chefEmma McCaskill has beenon the pans everywhere fromTokyo to Nottingham, UK, andhas now settled at Adelaide’sSparkke. For this issue, wechallenged her to craft awaste-free menu and shedelivered, using everythingfrom mango skins and chillitops to chicken hearts. “Tacklingwaste and redefining ourcooking style has pushed me tothink outside the box,” she says.p89Figs with figcaramel, fig-leafoil, pomegranateand radishesGOURMET TRAVELLER 16ContributorsPHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY (VIVIEN WALSH), MARNIE HAWSON (EMMAMcCKASKILL) & ALICIA TAYLOR (SALAD).

Gourmet Travellerstaffers share theirfavouriteplatesofthemoment. What we’re eatingCANNOLI, Lalla RookhTrust the chefs of Lalla Rookh to takea classic and make it even better. ThisSicilian dessert arrives looking like itstraditional self, crisp and dotted withpistachios, but it was the addition ofsavoury juniper that had me asking forseconds.77 St Georges Terrace, Perth, WA.LAURA JACOBS, ART DIRECTOR BARBACOA DE CORDERO TACOS, La CasitaThis Brunswick restaurant’s name maytranslate to “the little house”, but chef JoshLewis is generating big ideas. Here, lamb isslow-cooked under coals, topped with zucchinipico de gallo and salsa, and served with abowl of umami-rich braising juices to splashon top.5/3 Fawcett St, Brunswick Heads, NSW.GEORGIE MEREDITH, WRITER & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR FISH AND CHIPS, Fish ButcheryCrisp, batter-fried pink ling with yoghurttartare and thick, hand-cut chips,alongside a box of fried Ballina schoolprawns with hot cocktail sauce from theFish Butchery takeaway counter make forone of Sydney’s most satisfying seafoodspreads.388 Oxford St, Paddington, NSW.MADELEINE BENTLEY, CONTRIBUTOR BUSH CHOOK PIZZA, Si ParadisoDoes emu belong on a pizza? Paul Iskov,the chef behind native food pop-up Fervor,says yes. And this glorious pie starringemu pepperoni – a one-off pizza createdfor Beaufort Street hotspot Si Paradiso– suggests our man is onto something.1/446 Beaufort St, Highgate, WA.MAX VEENHUYZEN, WESTERN AUSTRALIA EDITORMAZESOBA, Iiko MazesobaThis Darling Square eatery specialisesin a brothless style of ramen from Japan.The vegan version is very good, althoughyou can also “un-veganise” it by addinga soft egg and cheese, and swirling itaround to create a Japanese-style carbonara if you like.86 Hay St, Haymarket, NSW.LEE TRAN LAM, NEWS EDITOR & CONTRIBUTORHAND-HARVESTED SEAFOOD, QuayStart as you mean to continue. PeterGilmore sets the tone for an exceptionalmeal as he opens Quay’s 10-course menuwith this impossibly delicate, fresh seafooddish. Virgin soy and aged vinegar bringperfect balance to this feather-light delight.Overseas Passenger Terminal, The Rocks, Sydney, NSW.JOANNA HUNKIN, EDITORGOURMET TRAVELLER17Six dishesPHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (QUAY) & JESSICA WYLD (LALLA ROOKH).



PHOTOGRAPHY LEI LEI CLAVEY.Unyokedcabinp24FEBRU AR YOff-the-grid eco cabins, zero-waste catering,an ethical dairy farm, and bushfire relief initiatives.Into the wildEdited byJORDAN KRETCHMER & LEE TRAN LAMNEWS

GOURMET TRAVELLER 20Restaurant newsT H EL A T E S TFROMC H E F SA N D R E S T A U R A N T SA R O U N DA U S T R A L IASYDNEYCoogee Pavilion opened in 2014 and hassince become a blockbuster multi-levelvenue, with 3000 plates hitting tableson an average day. Now, Merivale willunveil three new venues on the middlefloor.Mimi’swill serve grilled seafood,with a Mediterranean-inspired menudesigned by Jordan Toft. While award-winning bartender Luke Ashton willbring his expertise to cocktail barWill’s,following the closure of his Darlinghurstbar This Must Be the Place. Tapas barUna Máswill round out the trio.In Clovelly, pastry chef Yves Scherrer(ex-Sokyo) also looks to Europe, withMadame & Yves. The pâtisserie sellsFrench treats (pictured) such as EarlGrey éclairs, blueberry-cheesecakeentremets, and Ferrero Rocher croissants.In Chippendale,LP’s QualityMeatswill close its restaurant, renovateand focus on smallgoods production.But good news, the new space mighthold salami-and-cider events and special dinners in the future.MELBOURNEAfter selling more than a million burgersin Sydney,Mary’swill open a permanentsite in Melbourne. The 160-seater in theCBD will feature its fried chicken andsignature burgers, plus the vegan menufirst introduced at its Circular Quay outletin Sydney. There’ll be Melbourne-onlyspecials and the décor will include achandelier made from 24,000 dead rosestems that the staff salvaged themselvesfrom the markets. (In keeping with Mary’s sustainable approach: the originalNewtown site also offers a cocktailmade from fruit scraps).Eco-thinking also rules atAcreFarm & Eatery, the rooftop farm andrestaurant at Burwood Brickworks. Theretail site aims to be the world’s mostsustainable shopping centre and Acreis doing its bit, by growing 70 types ofplants at its urban farm, from rhubarb toradishes. Diners can enjoy eggs fromthe quail farm, or order dishes such ascharred zucchini with whipped goat’scurd and the Acre glasshouse salad.ADELAIDEJock Zonfrillo has closed BistroBlackwood in the CBD, and the siteis now named theAustralian FlavourLab. It’s partially inspired by the Oranain Residence pop-up that the chef ranin Sydney last year. That menu includedstrawberry-gum oil, wattleseed miso,Geraldton-wax sauce and other nativeflavours – and it ended up triggeringenquiries from many businesses wantingto develop products with Indigenousingredients. The Australian Flavour Labwon’t serve food, but it’ll offer a wayto collaborate with Zonfrillo, while alsosupporting the local communities behind these ingredients.

GOURMET TRAVELLER21PHOTOGRAPHY LUKE LATTY (DAN THE MAN).For Valentine’s Day, youcould get chocolateat Sydney’s MeltdownArtisan (try the veganyuzu-lychee block orthe Vietnamese caramelganache), but to makethings really personal,get your loved one’simage printed on aFace Pop.$35 for five,meltdownartisan.comForget wasteful hotelbreakfast buffets. Base Veveyin Switzerland’s Lake Genevaregion has a better idea: theBase Breakfast Bag. On thebag’s list of options, tick whatyou’d like (from muesli to freshpastries from Hokta, a bakery500 metres away). Leave itby your door and awake tofind the bag filled the nextmorning.basevevey.comA billion disposable cups end up in Australianlandfill every year. Perhaps Cupffee could bethe answer? Moulded from edible wafers,the design retains heat, can be eaten (it’sa good source of fibre!) and when thrownaway, it breaks down naturally.cupffee.meFeeling scrappy Dan the Man prefers to throw around ideas, rather than throw things out. For one catering job, the Sydney business served lamb and used the leftover fat to create a candle that was poured into an empty chickpea tin (the legumes were on the menu, too). It’s the kind of creative thinking that’s helping the company achieve its goal of one day becoming Australia’s first zero-waste caterer. Co-founder Ilana Cooper says peering inside the compost bin has inspired her team. Carrot tops and peels, from heirloom-carrot crudités, were taking up a lot of bin space at events. “Enter carrot-top pesto and carrot-peel bar snacks,” she says. “They also made their way into our signature mongrel focaccia, which is made with our leftover herbs.” And instead of single-use napkins, the team uses fabric offcuts supplied by fashion label Bec + Bridge, which can be washed instead of trashed. Phasing out cling film has been tough, though – “driving really slowly with tea towelson food and just hoping for the best” was one attempted solution, before staff realised that attaching silicon sheets to platters with bulldog clips was the best option. At the end of Dan the Man events, guests are encouraged to leave with leftover food (which adds a joyous element to parties). The caterer has just launched a waste-audit program to help any business hoping to reduce its impact on the environment. danthemancooking.comHow do you become Australia’s first zero-waste caterer? Dan the Man in Sydney steps up to the challenge.News

GOURMET TRAVELLER 22When Cathy Palmer found out about the darker side of the dairy industry, she decided to take the bull by the horns. Instead of giving it up, she set out to find a solution to the problem. The former music industry executive and her partner Dr Les Sandles (a third-generation dairy farmer, who like Palmer was becoming increasingly disenfranchised with the state of the industry) decided to see if they could defy the inhumane practices and founded How Now, a small farm near Victoria’s Shepparton where cows live alongside their offspring.In order for cows to produce milk they must produce offspring regularly – the dairy industry typically kills these bobby calves (the term given to newborn calves that are less than 30 days old and not with their mothers) as they are seen as surplus. How Now challenges this, keeping these calves for the mother cows to raise. “I was determined to prove everyone that told me you couldn’t have a cow-and- calf dairy wrong,” says Palmer. Palmer’s dairy farm has proved it’s possible, and has been in operation for almost three years, with no cow/calf separation and no slaughter. Their milk is stocked in independent grocers across NSW and Victoria.As one of just five commerical cow- and-calf dairies, How Now is carving out a new niche. “I am in a unique spot where the vegans hate me, and the dairy farmers hate me,” says Palmer. The herd of cows and calves each have names and have the ability to graze and roam. “We’ve identified that 50 to 60 cows in the dairy is the sweet spot,” says Palmer. Instead of growing their farm, Palmer hopes she can continue to bring more dairy farmers into the fold. “I’m passionate about Aussie dairy because it’s some of the best in the world. I would like to continue to champion it, and bring more farmers into the How Now way.”As for the cows, they have all settled into their roles well, with new calves arriving regularly. “They are very clever, and organised,” Palmer says. “They all take care of each other – they are just mums. Once you see this, it changes you forever.” hownowdairy.com.auKeeping it in the familyThis micro dairy is paving a new ethical way to produce milk, where kindness and family come before profit.Daily grindSeason in style, thanks to these salt and pepper mills from Danish brand Hay. They’re by George Sowden, co-founder of design collective Memphis Group (known for its splashy colours) and the settings allow you to adapt the size and coarseness of each grind. From $75 each, hayshop.com.au Going nativeDid you know that Bendigo has been named Australia’s first City of Gastronomy by UNESCO? The central Victorian district shares this honour with places such as Alba in Italy (the world’s “white truffle capital”) and Hyderabad in India (known for its biryani). The greater Bendigo area is home to many boutique wine and food producers, such as Laucke Flour Mills, the oldest family-owned flour miller in Australia. Culinary highlights in the region include Sonia Anthony’s tour of female producers (which features a stop with Aunty Julie, an Indigenous elder who collects kangaroo seed to bake bread as it was done 50,000 years ago) and the monthly Feast of Stories where Karen refugees and other migrants share dishes. The city is also working with the traditional owners, Dja Dja Wurrung, to restore Indigenous ingredients to the region.News

GOURMET TRAVELLER23PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (BUSHFIRE).Melbourne Food and Wine Festival The annual festival is drawing attention to restaurants and cafés with donation efforts using the hashtag #restaurantsforrelief, and also supports the 10 for 10 campaign, where you can generously give $10,000 in order to have Guy Grossi, Frank Camorra, Shannon Martinez or Mitch Orr come to your house to cook for 10 people.Good Pair Days The Adelaide Hills wine region has been devastated with one-third of the region’s vineyards burnt, resulting in long-term damage to the vines and soil. Along with visiting the Hills, you can support the wineries by grabbing fill their Eskies with local produce. Good Pair Days’ special Bushfire Support Wine Box, with all profits from the packs to be donated to the Red Cross Bushfire Appeal.Solotel’s Bushfire Relief Dish or Drink Until 9 February, select Sydney restaurants including Aria, Bea, Chiswick and North Bondi Fish will each have a special dish on their menus from which 100 per cent of the proceeds will go towards the Rural Fire Services. Empty Esky Bushfire Recovery This movement is drumming up support for local businesses in fire-impacted areas by encouraging holidaymakers to plan road trips to the regions (once it’s safe) and Hit the road with @emptyesky.The generous support for those affected by the bushfire crisis has permeated the hospitality and tourism industries, from dinners spearheaded by the likes of Duncan Welgemoed of Africola and Jacqui Challinor of Nomad, to company-wide donations from Merivale and Rockpool, along with an outpouring of heartfelt contributions from small businesses across the country. As communities begin to rebuild, it’s important we continue to give, engage and stay safe.Give a little, give a lotBauer Media and Gourmet Traveller are committed to helping support the communities left devastated by the recent bushfires. Rebuild our Towns is a campaign designed to support those communities and residents as they rebuild their lives over the coming weeks and months. Each week, the campaign will spotlight a different community in need and highlight practical ways that you can best help. Here at GT, we will continue to celebrate the exceptional food, wine and travel experiences from these areas with our readers. rebuildourtowns.com.au

GOURMET TRAVELLER 24PHOTOGRAPHY NIC HAMILTON (CABN).Find 1930s sake sets, watermelon-red lacquerware and other examples of Asian Art Deco at Japanese Modernism, showing at NGV International, Melbourne, from 28 February to 4 October. ngv.vic.gov.au1Off-grid cabinsConnect with nature at these tiny houses. T H R E EO FT H EB E S T•TH R E EO FTH EB E S TCabn (SA, Vic)These solar-powered, modern dwellings located in South Australia and Victoria offer minimalist yet inviting sleeping quarters. Opt for the bushland-situated Jude Cabn in the Adelaide Hills, or the Kuitpo, located in its own natural amphitheatre in the McLaren Vale wine region. In Victoria, head to the Sadie Cabn in the Daylesford, only 1.5 hours’ drive from Melbourne. Each Cabn is small in size but carefully designed for maximum comfort. From $190 per night, cabn.lifeUnyoked (NSW & Vic)These 12 different trailer cabins are locatedon properties and bushland throughout theHunter Valley, Central Coast Hinterland andthe Southern Highlands of NSW, and Victoria’sPyrenees Mountains and Central Gippsland.Switching off from modern amenities isthe mantra here – play board games, relaxin nature or roll out a yoga mat, and wakeup in the morning with Single O coffeebrews. From $223 per night, unyoked.coIn2thewild (NSW & Vic)With four sites in Victoria, 12 locations in NSW and options coming to Queensland, In2theWild offers mini-stays in a range of nature-loving vistas. Fashion your getaway towards the beach, vineyards, rainforest or farm, and then opt to choose a cabin with no reception if you really want to disconnect from it all. They also offer pet-friendly options, and several locations are large enough to sleep a family of four comfortably. From $269 per night, in2thewild.coClockwise from left: Jude Cabn in the Adelaide Hills; Unyoked’s Miguel cabin in the Southern Highlands, NSW; In2thewild’s cabin in Oberon, NSW.23

GOURMET TRAVELLER25NewsSustainability rules at Copenhagen’sAmass,where leftover peelings are turnedinto miso, and spent oil becomes biofuel.In August, the restaurant posted an imageof sous-chef Andrew Wallis holding thelast-ever roll of cling film that Amasswould use. This break-up with cling film– part of a five-year process of removingall disposable plastic at the restaurant – led to many strong responses. OneInstagram user (@fryedporkchop)commented that ditching cling film washard to do, as the plastic wrap has manykitchen uses: poaching ballotines, liningterrine moulds, even creating a cook’sbelt if they forget one.In Australia, many chefs have decidedto give up cling film. Josh Lewis banishedit from Fleet: the NSW restaurant’s last600-metre roll got a close-up on Instagrambefore it was gone. Melissa Palinkas atYoung George in Perth has respondedto the movement by investing in“indestructible” alternatives. “My kitchenand bar only use Cambro containersnow,” she says. For some chefs, banningcling film is simple: Ben Devlin never let it into Pipit, his northern NSW restaurant,in the first place. “It seemed easier thanstarting with it and trying to remove it,”he says. For methods that rely on plastic– like cooking in water baths, for instance– he uses jars and containers instead. TomHaynes at Barangaroo House in Sydneyhas a similar stance: “From day one, we’venever used cling film on any of the levelsacross the venue.” When it comes to,say, making terrine (which usuallyinvolves lining moulds with plastic), heuses beeswax and other cooking papers.“It can be a little bit more complicated, but it does work,” he says.Amass’s chef and owner MattOrlando has been using lids and applying new cooking methods to save using100 kilograms of cling film. “I havenot found a way that uses plastic inthe cooking technique that tastes betterthan when cooked without using plastic,”he says. “Of course, it takes a little morefinesse, but isn’t that the best part aboutbeing a chef? I think that it’s worth itif we can make things more delicious while being responsible.” It’s a wrapCopenhagen restaurant Amass declared it was done with cling film – and others followed its lead.You’ve got aleGelato Messina has created somethingthat doesn’t melt: the brand hasteamed up with Australian Brewery tomake an ale that’s flavoured withthe tonnes of dulce de leche that thegelati-maker cranks out every week.Find it on tap at various pubs and barsor at bottle shops.gelatomessina.comCruise controlThe world’s first battery-hybridpowered cruise ship theMS FridtjofNansenhas just been completedand is ready to set sail on oceansacross the world. Followingsuccessful sea trials, the Hurtigrutenliner is offering a series of specialpre-inaugural voyages, departingfrom London (7 March), Liverpool(12 March) and Portsmouth(17 March), with each trip exploringdestinations including Isles of Scilly,Aalborg, Isle of Man and Oslo. Thehybrid battery-powered solution isone of a series of green initiativesHurtigruten has deployed, alongwith getting rid of single-useplastics, and rebuilding its fleetof existing ships to be poweredby battery packs, liquefiednatural gas and biogas.hurtigruten.com.auSous-chefAndrew Walliswith Amass’s lastroll of cling film.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 26At Hearth, you’re using nativeingredients that aren’t regularlyseen on menus, such as youlk.Can you tell us more?Youlk is asmall native root vegetable fromthe Ravensthorpe area of theGreat Southern region. It has acrisp, juicy taste similar to a radish.What about your boab tubers?They’re from the Cockburn Rangesin East Kimberley, where they arewild-harvested by a lovely ladyand taken back to her garden inKununurra to be cultivated. Theboab tuber grows like a carrot andhas a texture like a water chestnut.What’s another interestingingredient you work with?OurMottainai lamb from Lancelin isfed on carrot and olive waste, theby-product of the neighbouringcarrot farm and olive grove.Fire is a big part of Hearth. Howdoes it inspire the menu?We arecurrently glazing Western Australiandhufish with macadamia misoand cooking it directly over coals;covering white onions with a hot ashat the end of the night – we peel the skin in the morning and serve itwith Berkshire pork; and we smokerainbow trout from the SouthernForest region over meadow hayand serve it with sorrel cream.What are some sustainableapproaches you take at Hearth?Allour produce comes from WesternAustralia, so it cuts down on ourcarbon footprint. We only sourceline-caught fish. We grill all ourvegetable scraps on the hearthand make a vegetable jus to dressour potato purée. And we smokeall fish frames over the hearth andmake a stock for our fish sauce.Is there a chef that inspires you?Dan Barber of Blue Hill at StoneBarns in New York. He runs thewastED community of chefs,producers and suppliers workingtogether to re-conceive wasteand hosts pop-up dinners utilising all waste. He’s also focusedon supporting and improvingendangered vegetable seeds. Hearth, The Ritz-CarltonPerth, 1 Barrack St, Perth,WA, hearthrestaurant.com.auOn the PassJED GERRARD, HEARTH, PERTHZERO HEROAnitaVandykefeltdauntedbyclimatechangestatistics,butwantedtohelptheenvironment.“Theeasiestplacewastostartwithmyhome,”shesays.In2015,shebeganbuyingonlysecond-handorinbulk,andmakingeco-friendlygifts,allactsshe’sposted abouttoher78,000Instagramfollowers.Lookoutforhersecondbook,outlaterthisyear,aboutattemptingzero-waste living witha young family.@rocket_scienceGARDENISLANDTwo of Singapore’s biggest luxury hotels haveintroduced an urban aquaponics garden to supply theirkitchens with freshly grown produce using combinedaquaculture and hydroponics solutions. A 450-square-metre aquaponics garden will supply around one-third of the vegetables and a small portion of freshfish used across Fairmont Singapore and SwissôtelThe Stamford each month. The move comes to supportSingapore’s overall goal of producing 30 per centof its food needs locally by 2030; currently, morethan 90 per cent of food consumed in Singapore is imported.fairmont.com; swissotel.com News

GOURMET TRAVELLER27PHOTOGRAPHY REBECCA MANSELL (JED GERRARD) & GARETH SOBEY (DAIRY BOTTLE).WEATHERING CHANGEA decade after Jonathan Safran Foer penned the best-selling Eating Animals (his case against factory farming), he’s written We are the Weather: Saving the Planet Begins at Breakfast (Hamish Hamilton, $35). He argues that going vegan before dinner can lead to a positive impact on climate change, as meat production generates greenhouse gas emissions that equal the impact of all forms of transport combined.Imitation gameAustralian plant-based meat alternative Fable counts chef Heston Blumenthal as one of its fans.WHO “I couldn’t think of anything I wanted to work on more than reducing industrial animal agriculture,” says Michael Fox, who became a vegetarian four years ago. He hit on the idea of producing a meat alternative from mushrooms, but given his fashion background, he knew he needed help from food industry pros. So he’s teamed up with Chris McLoghlin, co-founder of Australia’s largest mushroom farm, and Jim Fuller, an ex-chef now working as a mycologist (a mushroom scientist). They’ve created Fable, a plant-based “meat” formed from shiitake mushrooms.HOW After eating every mushroom imaginable and meeting fungi experts such as Thai professor Anon Auetragul (who also introduced them to chef Heston Blumenthal), they created a product that has the stringy texture of beef brisket. The meaty flavour, which took a year to develop, is flavoured with shiitake mushrooms (which makes up two-thirds of the product), coconut oil and soy protein.WHY The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change recommended eating less meat in its latest report as raising livestock creates significant greenhouse gas emissions and deforestation. The mega success of US plant-based meats (Beyond Meat, Impossible Foods) proves there’s an appetite for vegan alternatives. Fable already has Heston Blumenthal’s blessing: it launched in December at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in Melbourne (his “snail” porridge was served with Fable instead), and it’s on the menu at his Heathrow Airport café in London. Fable can be found locally at The Rook in Sydney and Acre Farm & Eatery in Melbourne. fablefood.co“I grew up in New Zealand, and used to deliver glass milk bottles on the back of a truck when I was 11,” says Brittney Wheeler, creative director at Contain Design Studio. So it’s apt that her studio has collaborated with Schulz Organic Dairy on a sustainable glass design that inspires users to refill, return and recycle milk bottles. Phasing out plastic from the product equates to 120 kilograms of plastic saved for every 3000 bottles sold. containdesign.com.auPasta with “meatballs” made with Fable.

As a child I remember travellingwith my parents, grandparents,the crew ofCalypso–sometimes even alone withmy passport around my neck.I learnt to dive on my fourthbirthday.My parents werehosting a birthday party forme and my father left to pickup some food. When he cameback, he found me at thebottom of the pool “buddybreathing” with a family friend.That’s where my love for divingstarted, as well as from thestories my grandfather told us.I started joining expeditions at age seven.The most inspirational places I’vevisited and people I’ve methavebeen Nepal and the Sherpapeople, the Amazon and thetribes of the Vale do Javariregion, Tanzania and theMaasai. All were inspirationalin their understanding of,and relationship with,their environment and the balance of life.There are a lot of places and experiencesI hold in my heart:from my family homein the South of France, to seven weeks inthe Himalayas with one of my best friends;from partaking in rituals with the Sherpasand Nepalese people, to climbing to thetop of Kilimanjaro; from camping amongthe lions with Maasai warriors, to eatingmuktuk (whale skin and blubber) with the Inuit in the Arctic. The most important part of travelis leavinga place you visit in a better state thanyou found it. Making a positive impact,however large or small, is paramountto enjoying the experience of traveland doing our part as thankful guests.Every time I visit a new place it changes mylifebecause it gives me a new perspective.I love experiencing new cultures, and beingable to immerse yourself in sometimesuncomfortable situations because you’re in a foreign environment.We’ve explored less than 5 per cent ofour ocean world today.When people askme what my favourite dive is, I say “thenext one”, because there’s so much left to explore.In early 2020 I’ll be travelling to Europeand Central and South America,as wellas the Western Pacific. I travel for work for up to 250 days a year. Travelling by foot is the most eco-conscious way to travel.Although mostof us will not take our vacation bywalking, making travel decisions thatincorporate minimising your carbonfootprint is always a good choice. We often forget that travel is a privilege.Being excited to go on a journey servesto catalyse the enjoyment of a memorable life experience.●Fabien Cousteau visited Cairns inhis role as brand ambassador forSeiko and as an advocate for theworld’s oceans. Seiko donates aportion of all sales of its Prospex“Save the Ocean” dive watchesto Cousteau’s Ocean LearningCenter,fabiencousteauolc.orgTravelling as a child was just a part of life.Looking back, I see how unbelievably luckyI was, because it made me who I am today.The invaluable education from being ableto go on adventures with my grandfather[Jacques-Yves Cousteau] and family gaveme an understanding of what makes usviable on this planet – a lesson that wouldbe hard to learn any other way. It gave mea great sense of the urgency for which myfamily’s mission needs to be broadcast;not only one of adventure and passion,but also of exploration and conservation. Just back from…AustraliaNext up…Home in New York.I always look forwardto spending time athome with my family.FabienCousteauTheenvironmentaladvocateandaquanautdeepdivesinto his peripatetic life.TRAVELLING WITHHow I travelINTERVIEW KARLIE VERKERK. PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS PAVLICH.GOURMET TRAVELLER 28

travelassociates.com|13 70 71BESPOKE ITINERARIES | PREMIUM AIRFARESSMALL GROUP JOURNEYS | LUXURY CRUISINGEvery traveller lives for those moments that awakentheir curiosity. Be it discovering local restaurants in old town Kyoto or fl oating down the Sumida River. Travel Associates advisers specialise in creating personalised and truly special holiday moments that stay with you forever. With a network of over 100 locations Australia wide, Travel Associates brings together the most knowledgeable and well-travelled advisers across the country.Let Travel Associates design your nextunforgettable experience.THIS MOMENT

You grew up in a big family. Was everynight a massive dinner party?Absolutely.There were nine children and we alwayshad friends over every night. My fathercommissioned the boatyard in town tobuild this big round table that sat 14,which was basically full every night. You’re from a seaside fishing townin Massachusetts, USA. What are somedining highlights from your childhood?Chatham, Massachusetts is known forits cod fish, which you’ll find in some ofthe best restaurants in the United States.Cod played a very important role at ourtable, a few nights a week. We ate a lotof clams, and lobster was a big treat forus. But our mother made a lot of largecasserole dishes to appease the masses. In 2012, you hosted a party that changedyour career. What happened?The eventwas held in Manhattan’s Central Park.And unfortunately, you can’t bringglassware or china into the park, becauseof safety issues. With 1400 guests, I usedsomething like 25,000 plastic plates and30,000 plastic cups. At that point, I knewI needed to make a change. And that’swhen I launched Inward Point, which is a zero-waste events company.Tell us about a sustainable party you’vethrown.At a lunch I did for 600 guestsin LA, we tried to divert everythingfrom landfill. There were no flowerarrangements; all the table decorationswere succulent plants taken out of the Andy King runs Inward Point, a zero-waste event company,inwardpoint.com.He also appears inFyre, which isstreaming on Netflix,netflix.comsoil the day before, and put into beautifulboxes that were made by children withdisabilities. The boxes were re-used andsucculents replanted the following day. Some caterers end up throwing out a lotof food after their events. How do youstop meals being wasted?We measurethe number of guests that are comingand how much food we’ll need for everymeal. If there is any food left over, wehave refrigerated trucks that are waitingon site to deliver food to nearby nursinghomes and schools that are underfunded.Tell us about the event you did for theLeonardo DiCaprio Foundation.It was adinner for 500 guests and it was 99.9 percent zero-waste. We hired a sorter: hername is Green Mary. She helps diverteverything from landfill. Any coathangerthat came on site, she put into boxes anddelivered to dry cleaners in nearby towns. Mary also worked with local wineries andfound that many of them have barns thathave fallen down, so we used that woodto build every bar and every table. Wetry to inspire people to reclaim, re-use,recycle and repurpose. And rejoice,because it’s amazing what you can dowith things that people throw away.What’s next for you? We hear there’s a TVshow and podcast on the cards.Yes, we’reworking on a show now. And the podcast– I’ll be interviewing a lot of famouspeople and we will be participating in a lot of amazing storytelling.Will you get to ask them about food?Sure will. I still cook every night. Food is so much of my life.●How I eatThezero-wastepartyorganiseronthechallengesofmasscatering,leftovers, and his new podcast.EATING WITHAndyKingINTERVIEW LEE TRAN LAM. PHOTOGRAPHY STEWART MUNRO.GOURMET TRAVELLER 30

SOUTH KOREA REAL FOOD ADVENTUREImmerse yourself in the atmosphere of South Korean food, from bibimbap to immense street food markets that you could get lost in.Your 8-day Intrepid tour from Seoul includes 7 nights accommodation, some meals, transport and sight-seeingwith local leaders.™Enjoy an overnight temple stay with Sunmudo training and meditation™Visit historial Hanok village in Jeonju and take aKimchi cooking classFrom $2961 for 8 days**Valid for select departures 27 Jan – 15 Dec 20. Offer 9604441SAVE $615^CLASSIC JAPANJourney from Kyoto to Tokyo on a cultural crusade throughthe heart of Japan. Your 12-day Intrepid tour from Kyoto to Tokyo includes 11 nights accommodation, some meals including breakfast daily, transport and sight-seeing with local leaders.™Enjoy an overnight Buddhist temple stay in Koya-san and visit Hiroshima Peace Park™Visit the opulent Nijo Castle and experience a traditional Japanese ryokan in tiny TsumagoFrom $5540 for 12 days**Valid for select departures 15 Jan – 15 Dec 20. Offer 9482267SAVE $329^Speak with an experienced travel adviser today.*Travel restrictions and conditions apply. Valid for sale until 26 Feb 20, unless sold out prior. Prices are per person, twin share & subject to availability. Saving included in advertised price. Other departure dates available, seasonal surcharges may apply. Flight Centre Travel Group ^Limited (ABN 25 003377188) trading as Travel Associates. ATAS Accreditation No. A10412 TA19223travelassociates.com | 13 70 71Experience moreEnjoy a more social atmosphere, connect betterwith your local guide and access curated cultural experiences on an Intrepid Travel tour.ON A SMALL-GROUP TOUR

The green pioneer is here“In my imagination, I created an electric ship that could break through all kinds of ice, that nice and elegantly, fearful and irresistible, could sail through the Arctic oceans, straight to the Pole.” Roald Amundsen, age 10, 1882Alaska & CanadaAntarcticaEuropeGreenlandIcelandNorth, Central & South AmericaNorthwest PassageNorwaySvalbard

A footprint we are proud ofWhen you explore with Hurtigruten you’ll sail with a world leader in sustainable exploration travel. With two new hybrid powered ships – the state-of-the-art MS Roald Amundsen and MS Fridtjof Nansen – you’ll sail in premium comfort knowing your expedition will leave the smallest possible footprint. The greenest fleetOur two new custom built hybrid powered ships lead the greenest expedition cruise fl eet in the world. And by 2021 we’ll add another new hybrid powered ship to the fl eet and complete the refurbishment of more ships adding battery power, low-emission engines and shore power capability.Science, innovation and technologyWe’re reducing our emissions with nearly 30 diff erent energy saving measures: From reusing heat from our engines to heat onboard water tanks – saving the equivalent in power of 6700 households per year – to ballast water treatment plants, onboard desalination and purifi cation technology biofuels to produce fresh water, we’re focused on sustainability in every part of our business.Plastic, pollution and cleaner oceansIn 2018, Hurtigruten was the fi rst major travel company to remove single-use plastic from all our ships, restaurants and hotels and we’re challenging our suppliers to reduce or stop the use of single-use plastic too. Our Expedition Teams are always collecting waste – take the opportunity to join them in beach clean-ups in wilderness areas. Working with the expertsFrom the registration of polar bears on Svalbard and logging seawater temperature along the Norwegian coast, to oil surveillance and Antarctic research, you’ll have the opportunity to participate in important scientifi c research.And with leading environmental agencies such as Clean Arctic Alliance and European Climate Foundation, Hurtigruten is spearheading a campaign to ban the use of HFO in Arctic waters. go to hurtigruten.com.au or call 1300 322 062



1MELROSEALMOND BUTTERRoasted almonds arethe sole ingredient of thiswonderfully silky spread.It has a bold, earthy flavourthat is both sweet andslightly bitter. Add toovernight oats or drizzleover your morning mueslifor an extra hit ofcalcium.$13 for 250gm.melrosehealth.com.au2BYRON BAY PEANUT BUTTER COCRUNCHY PEANUT BUTTERIf there were a king of peanutbutters, this would be it. A blendof Queensland-grown hi-oleicpeanuts (meaning they containa higher amount of good fats) andmacrobiotic Australian sea salt,this plush, dark-roasted butter hasa natural sweetness. Intensely rich,it’s a faultless toast topper bestserved generously.$7.50 for 375gm.byronbaypeanutbutter.com.au3HAND ‘N’ HOE ORGANICSROASTED CRUNCHYMACADAMIA BUTTERHand ‘n’ Hoe keeps itscarbon footprint low byusing macadamias that arehand-picked, processed andpacked on their solar-poweredfarm in Kippaxs, NSW. Itscrunchy macadamia butter isdelicate, toasty and teemingwith chopped nuts. Trymixing it with classic Asiancondiments for an Aussie twiston a satay.$15 for 225gm.handnhoeorganics.com.au4NOYA CASHEW BUTTERNoya pride themselves on usingnothing but nuts in their spreads.This magnesium-rich cashew butteris the definition of velvety, with noextra additives. Cashews are lightlyroasted for a rounded nutty flavourand an exceptionally creamy texture.Put it to work in a salad dressingor add to smoothies as a naturalthickener.$9.50 for 250gm.royalnutcompany.com.au599TH MONKEY PISTACHIOAND ALMOND BUTTERThis jar of dense, textured nutbutter sees roughly 80 per centroasted almonds combined with20 per cent raw pistachio. The unlikelymarriage of these two nuts producesa sweet, easy-going flavour withrefined savoury undertones. Stirthrough pesto or mix into a pancakebatter for some added oomph.$12 for 200gm. 99thmonkey.com.auSpread on toast or spooned straight from the jar,these nut butters are worth a spot in the pantry.Nut buttersWORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY ROB SHAW. STYLING LAURA JACOBS.GOURMET TRAVELLER35Five of a kind

Dwayne Bannon-HarrisonKylie Kwong introduces us to some of her favourite food heroes and theindividuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we meet Indigenous food and culture facilitator Dwayne Bannon-Harrison.

I first had the privilege of collaboratingwith Dwayne Bannon-Harrison when I wasinvited to curate one of Carriageworks’Summer Night Markets. I was struck byhis innate respect and warmth towardsall beings, combined with his extraordinaryknowledge and wisdom about hiscountry and Mother Earth. If I think aboutsustainability in terms of maintaining abalance between different parts of society and the environment, Bannon-Harrison, through his inspiring cultural and culinary practices continues to teach so much, to so many of us.Native ingredients and Indigenous cookingtechniques have found their way into someof Australia’s top kitchens in recent years,as more and more chefs turn their gazecloser to home and look to connect with the people, communities and landscape around them.Dwayne Bannon-Harrison has been at theforefront of this movement, working with some ofthe country’s leading chefs by sharing his invaluable knowledge and wisdom, and cultural insights.A Yuin man from the Shoalhaven region ofNew South Wales, Bannon-Harrison is the managingdirector of Ngaran Ngaran Culture Awareness, anorganisation that seeks to share the cultural practicesand knowledge of the world’s oldest living culture. He also runs a catering company,Mirritya Mundya – which meanshungry blackfish – with his wifeAmelia. The pair use smoke, fireand Indigenous ingredients tocreate accessible and deliciousdishes to serve via their customfood trailer and at pop-up events.“There are around 6000Indigenous flavours throughproteins, vegetables, nuts andfruits,” says Bannon-Harrison.“It’s quite phenomenal.”With so many complex flavours and experiences to be discovered, Australian chefs such as KylieKwong, Ben Shewry and Curtis Stone have allturned to Bannon-Harrison for guidance on theirIndigenous culinary journeys.“We’re really conscious of helping chefs to findtheir connection with community and to enjoy it, whether it’s a seasonal witchetty grub collected fromnorthern Victoria or green ants from Maningridain the Northern Territory,” he says. “If these chefs arereally serious about it, there’s a code of ethics, and thatcomes back to cultural protocol and practice… They’regoing to have to dig into that world and do the work.”As more chefs and businesses engage in thesejourneys, a permanent place for Indigenous cultureis being established within the culinary industry.“The more Aboriginal people involved in the industryin Australia today, the better it is for the country,”says Bannon-Harrison. “Whether restaurants worktowards a higher Indigenous employment figure,or even integrate Indigenous elements into themenu or ambience of the restaurant.”He believes it’s better for the earth, too. “Themore natives in the ground means the country isgoing to be healthier and rejuvenated, having theplants it once had. Heal the land, heal the people.”Bannon-Harrison learned these teachings from hisgrandfather, Yuin elder Uncle Max “Dulumunmun”Harrison, who learned from five masters of Aboriginal lore.“Seasonality is one thing. And the other one is, we onlytake what we need. That is, culturally as we put it, a law.”Bannon-Harrison hopes the use of native ingredientsin modern Australian cuisine will keep growing, alongwith the presence of Indigenous entrepreneurs, and forboth to hold their own on the world stage. “It’s aboutpushing those messages out – we’re here, we’re kickingand, excuse the pun, the world isa massive oyster for us,” he says.In the future he’d love to seean Indigenous food alley in Sydney,along with an increased presence inthe tourism market. Along with this,Bannon-Harrison hopes his foodwill continue to connect peopleand break down barriers.“We have a very inconsistent andcomplex history with this country,”he says. “We’re starting to becomevery aware and some of us are accepting it for what it is,and coming together with Aboriginal people around thetable. Food is a connector – it brings people together.”But it’s a journey, Bannon-Harrison says, thatwill never really end. “When people ask how chefscan properly engage with Aboriginal communities... It’s so broad, because no one will ever knoweverything. And that’s the beautiful thing.”●“We’re reallyconscious ofhelping chefsto find theirconnection withcommunity and to enjoy it.”GOURMET TRAVELLER37WORDSJORDANKRETCHMER(MAIN)&KYLIEKWONG(INTRODUCTION).PHOTOGRAPHY DESTINATION NSW (DWAYNE BANNON-HARRISON) & PENNY LANE (KYLIE KWONG).

Now that the formerLygon Food Store, a66-year Italian veteranof Lygon Street, hasbecome a modern Asian diner, it’shard to resist the changing-of-the-guard story. And while it’s truethat Lygon Street’s Italian accentis not as strong as it once was, thebetter story here is not about lossbut gain. Lagoon Dining addssomething fresh and relevant tothe mix, bringing texture anddepth to Lygon Street’s canvas.Texture also comes to mindwith Lagoon’s fit-out. The moodilylit room with its whitewashed brickwalls, rough-edged black granite bar,mustard-coloured curtains at thefront door, open kitchen, banquetteseating and bright-yellow wavinglucky cats is intimate and tactile.There’s texture on Lagoon’s mostlyChinese menu too, starting with asensational hot-and-sour shreddedpotato dish. Chefs Keat Lee andNed Trumble, who’ve previouslyworked together at Ezard andLongsong, nail simplicity andbalance with these desiree spuds.They’re julienned, soaked overnightand chucked into a wok with garlic,chilli oil and Sichuan pepper so thatthey emerge with an enormously Cantonese, Sichuan and Xinjiangcuisines, but there are also foraysinto Japan, Korea and Malaysia.A dish of garlic chives, driedprawns, shiitake and cashews isjoined by ’nduja in one of the moreovert fusion dishes on the menu.It’s a good example of how Lee and Clockwisefrom above: coslettuce, peanut,savoury yeastand strangeflavour dressing;chefs Keat Leeand Ned Trumble;charcoal-roastedchar siu, spring-onion relishand tare.LagoonDiningbringsanAsianflavourtoLygonStreet’sexpandingrepertoire,writes MICHAEL HARDEN.Crossing borderssatisfying spice burn and barely-cooked crunch. They’re splashedwith Chinkiang vinegar and tossedwith pickled enoki mushrooms,and should be on everyone’s radar.Then there’s the char-grilledhalf cos lettuce. It’s teamedwith “strange flavour dressing”– sesame paste flavoured with soy,cardamom, star anise, fennel seedsand chilli oil – and nutritionalyeast mixed with black sesame andpeanuts. There’s an option of lapcheong for the non-vegans, buteither way, it’s a riot of flavour.The single-page menu is fullof bold-flavoured dishes. Most havetheir roots in China, specifically in GOURMET TRAVELLER 38

AND ALSO…LagoonDining263 LygonSt, Carlton,(03) 9349 1939,lagoondining.comOpenMon & Wed-Thu 5pm-late,Fri-Sun noon-latePricesSnacks$4-$16, entrées$14-$22, maincourses $38-$49,desserts $11VegetarianThree snacks,three entrées.NoiseElevatedbut under controlWheelchairaccessYesMinusCompactdimensions mean alittle lack of elbowroom when fullPlusAn excitingnew additionto the LygonStreet catalogueDetailsDOUBLE THE FUNThe latest contribution to Melbournedining from the Reymond family(Bistro Gitan, L’Hotel Gitan) isa double-header in Cremorne.Fred’shas a menu that startswith breakfast (croissants, salmonbagels) and then moves onto a barmenu (pâté, oysters) alongside aEuro-friendly wine list. Next door’sFrédéricis a stylish diner withmod-Euro bistro dishes such assweetcorn madeleines toppedwith crab (above) and Manchegomousse millefeuille.9-11 Cremorne St, Cremorne, frederic.com.auMADE IN JAPANPart of the serene Japanese caféwave that’s been washing overMelbourne’s inner north,ImaProjectis a calm classic of thegenre, complete with an ethical,minimal-waste philosophy. The foodincludes an excellent take on avotoast (served with nori-paste furikakeand an onsen egg) and a karaage-chicken burger. The coffee (ProudMary’s) is good, too.Ima Project,169 Elgin St, Carlton, imacafe.coBISTRO FEVERNathan Toleman, best known for hisbeautifully designed cafés (Liminal,Higher Ground), has made his firstforay into restaurant territory withHazel. All timber floors, leatherbooths and banquettes and subtleglitz, Hazel offers a lengthy menuof Aussie bistro food that runs thegamut from house-made charcuterieand smoked fish and capers ontoast, to lamb with chimichurri.There’s a decently-priced Euro-Australian wine list and goodselection of cocktails.164 FlindersLn, Melbourne, hazelrestaurant.com.auTrumble roll. They’re unafraidto mix and match cuisines, breaka few rules and blur some lines.It’s an approach that worksto great effect with the charcoal-roasted char siu, made frompork neck the chefs source fromDonati’s, Lygon Street’s landmarkbutcher. The pork, dry-cured andmarinated, is glazed in honey waterand served with a spring-onionrelish and Japanese tare, a sweet,thickened soy sauce. The meatis tender and flavoursome withsweet and smoky notes.Then there’s fried popcornchicken that comes with curryleaf and togarashi and brilliantXinjiang-spiced lamb ribs, tenderfrom a kombu brine, bright withcumin and chilli. The hot andnumbing beef tartare has Sichuan pepper as the most dominantspice but is accompanied byVietnamese mint, pickled shallots,crème fraîche, daikon and Chinesedoughnuts in a way that somehow seems perfectly rational. Service is a high point, discreetbut present and deft in a compactroom that takes some manoeuvringwhen full. Co-owner Chris Lerch,another Ezard alumnus, seamlesslyfuses his fine-dining backgroundwith the more casual approachthat matches Lagoon’s style.The one-page wine list isskilfully calibrated to the powerfulflavours on the menu. There’sfunky, salty tsitska from Georgiaalongside a clean, pretty riesling-grüner veltliner blend fromAustria, nebbiolo from Italyand sparkling wine from Victoria.Keep the cocktails in mind,particularly the refreshing Highballwith sake, lemon curd and tonic.There are just two desserts.One’s a mango pudding, brightand vibrant in looks and flavour,the other a malt parfait that’sfinished with blueberries in aPedro Ximénez caramel. Considerboth of them instead of torturingyourself with an agonising decision.Lagoon Dining might well be asignal that Lygon Street is changing.But when change comes with thislevel of charm and flavour, it’s hardto see it as anything but a positive.●Pork and cabbagedumplings withChinese celery.GOURMET TRAVELLER39PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (LAGOON DINING).Melbourne review

Abrisk walk around theblock can work wondersfor creativity and morale.Or in Nomad’s case, astroll up the road. The tribe hasmigrated to a temporary homeat the ex-Longrain site after anelectrical fire broke out at theiroriginal Foster Street digs a fewdoors down, and it seems thefresh air and change of sceneryis exactly what they needed.The bright and unpretentiousfit-out with its subtle warehousevibe has moved with the team,as has the Mediterranean-skewedshare-style menu. In today’s diningclimate you’d be hard-pressed tofind a menu that wasn’t designed From above:Nomad head chefJacqui Challinor(from left) andco-ownersRebecca andAl Yazbek;salted kingfishcroquettes.Opposite,clockwise fromtop left: pickledeggplant,pomegranateand roasted oliveseeds; kingfishceviche; olive-oil ice-creamsandwich.AchangeofscenerybringsfreshflavourstoaSydneyfavourite,writesKARLIE VERKERK.Nomadby natureto share. But if it’s going to makesense anywhere, it’s here. Theflavours are assured and the serveshonest. This is the sort of foodyou want to get stuck into.Take for example the modestdish that is flatbread, a Nomadstaple. Sprinkled with za’atarand accompanied by a generousportion of silky cannellini-beanhummus and cumin brown-butter,you really don’t need to order muchmore. Although, I suggest you do.Perhaps start with the friedolives. The meaty green orbs arestuffed with ’nduja, then coatedin breadcrumbs and deep-frieduntil wonderfully golden. They’resalty and spicy and everything you want in a one-bite snack.Or the kingfish crackling: a neatpile of fried, crisp skin dusted ina punchy spice mix of smokedpaprika, fennel, cumin, corianderand black peppercorn. If thisdoesn’t get your tastebuds firing,nothing will.Sustainability is at the coreof head chef Jacqui Challinor’scooking, and her approach isrefreshingly un-preachy. Onthe plate, it translates to locallysourced produce – some is evengrown or foraged by staff; be sureto compliment waiter Cameronon the oregano and elderflower.Minimal food waste is anotherpositive takeaway. You’ll find thetrunk of the kingfish from theaforementioned crackling used in azingy ceviche, while the sweet headmeat is fashioned into croquettes.Step away from the table andyou’ll see more earth-friendlypractices in action. In the kitchen, WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH (SONORA). PHOTOGRAPHY PETRINA TINSLAY (NOMAD).GOURMET TRAVELLER 40

AND ALSO…THE LONG LUNCHSummer lunching is easy on theNSW Central Coast, particularlyat Bells at Killcare’s reimaginedrestaurant,The Wild FlowerBar & Dining. Highlights from theMediterranean menu (above) includetempura-light fritto misto, locallycaught whole-grilled fish with herbysalsa salmoriglio, and anchovy-studded cavolo nero. Retreat tothe garden and sip Pol Roger by theglass, then stay the night if inclined.107 The Scenic Rd, Killcare Heights,(02) 4349 7000, bellsatkillcare.com.auHOLA SONORAThe power duo behind Bondi’sMexican watering holes, Taquizaand Carbon, has openedSonora,a neon-lit joint in Potts Point. It’squintessential Mexican with modernflair; guacamole is tricked up withcaperberries and charred artichoke,while tacos are bolstered withgrilled octopus, wild mushroomsand quail. There’s also a heartyselection of tequila and organicmezcal to help get the fiesta started.¡Salud!Shop 1, 37-41 Bayswater Rd,Potts Point, sonora-mexican.com.auSOME LIKE IT HOTBeloved Darlinghurst izakayaChaco Barhas divided their ramenand yakitori offering, opening anoutpost dedicated to skewers andshare-style dishes, while the originalfocuses on ramen. The new spacein Potts Point is much larger thanthe first, with a long communaltable and an island grill up the back.Choose your own offal adventure,or stay in the safe zone – just don’tbypass the silky crab chawanmushi.186-188 Victoria St, Potts Point, (02) 8593 4567, chacobar.com.auS ydney reviewsingle-use plastics are banned,cooking oils are recycled intobiofuel, lighting is LED, andcareful waste separation has helpedto reduce the restaurant’s landfillcontribution by 80 per cent. Ifother chefs aren’t taking notesby now, they should. Now I runthe risk of sounding preachy.Linger in the kitchen a littlelonger and you might notice theabsence of smoke. Unlike theoriginal residence there is nowoodfired oven or grill, which isa considerable shift for Challinor.You’d think her fire-kissed flavourswould be missed, especially inthe signature scorched flatbread,but not so. The latest iterationof flatbread is cooked on theplancha and the result proveshighly successful. The outer crustof the focaccia dough is almostroti-like while the inside remainslight. No fire required.Surprisingly, another dish thatdoesn’t miss an open flame is thespatchcock, which is brined forthree hours, marinated overnightin chermoula heavy with parsley,coriander and garlic, then sealedin a hot pan and roasted in theoven. The meat is tender andthe marinade still vibrant – alack of char goes unnoticed.The wine menu is incrediblyrobust. There’s a new addition to Nomad**Up the Road85 CommonwealthSt, Surry Hills,(02) 9280 3395,nomadwine.com.auOpenLunch Mon-Sun noon-2pm;dinner Mon-Wed6pm-late; Thurs-Sat 5.30pm-latePricesSnacks $5-$18,entrées $16-$29,main courses $36-$55, sides $12-$21,desserts $10-$19VegetarianOne snack,four entrées, onemain, three sidesNoiseInnocuousWheelchairaccessYesMinusOnly inresidence ’till JunePlusNot farfrom the originalDetailsthe Australian-dominant list withcustom wine made exclusively forNomad by the formidable NickFarr of Wine by Farr. House winehas never met such high standards.Alternatively, zero in on a glassof the Simla white field blend –a celestial mixture of chardonnay,riesling and sauvignon blanc –from the Derwent Valley, or ahigh-octane savagnin from Yetti& The Kokonut in the Barossa.They’re both a good time withthe pomegranate-jewelled pickledeggplant. If you have any leftoverbread, this is your cue to mop upthe sweet and slightly tart pulp.An orange-blossom sundae sitson the refreshing end of the dessertscale. It sees half a hollowed orangefilled with goat’s-milk yoghurtsorbet and orange caramel, thentopped with a mound of bitterorange granita. The flavour is like a Negroni spider: citrusy andcreamy all at once.At the sweet but not saccharineend, buried in halva rubble andgarnished with delicate elderflower,is an olive-oil ice-cream sandwich– a textural treat held togetherwith bronzed wafers of pastry. Anenduring favourite for good reason.Its location may be different,but you’ll be pleased to knowthat Nomad has never felt moreat home; right here, right now.●GOURMET TRAVELLER41

A wave of sustainable winemakers in South Australia’sMcLaren Vale are leading the way in adapting to climatechange with award-winning wines, writesMAX ALLEN.Southern belle From left:2019 Battle ofBosworth Puritan Shiraz, 2017Angove Family WinemakersWarboys Vineyard Shiraz, 2018Hither & Yon Nero D’Avola and2017 Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache.PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO (MAIN). STYLING LAURA JACOBS. ALL PROPS STYLIST’S OWN.

Last year was a big one for McLaren Vale’s sustainability-minded winegrowers: the awards kept raining down on this popular South Australian wine region. At the Great Wine Capitals Best of Wine Tourism Awards announced in Bordeaux, Gemtree Wines was named global winner for Sustainable Wine Tourism Practices.At the Australian Organic Awards, Gemtree won Best Alcohol Product of the Year for their delicious, slurpy 2019 Luna Temprana Tempranillo, while Angove Family Winemakers – based in the Riverland but with vineyards and a cellar door in McLaren Vale – was named Business of the Year. And at the McLaren Vale Wine Show, brothers Malcolm and Richard Leask of Hither & Yon took out the trophy for top wine of the show, a 2018 red made from the climate-change-suited Sicilian grape variety, nero d’Avola; Richard has also just finished travelling for his Nuffield Scholarship looking at regenerative farming practices around the world. For quite a few years now, McLaren Vale has laid a pretty convincing claim to being the greenest wine region in Australia.The region has long been at the forefront of climate-change adaptation. Around half the vineyards are now irrigated using reclaimed waste water, thanks to the construction in the 1990s of a pipeline from a nearby residential treatment plant. And since the 1980s, when pioneer producers Coriole started planting southern Mediterranean grapes such as sangiovese, the region has come to be recognised as a leading source of wines made from non-mainstream, heat-and-drought-tolerant varieties fiano, nero d’Avola, tempranillo and touriga – as well, of course, as the old heat-and-drought-tolerant varieties grenache and mataro that have flourished in the area for over a century.The Sustainable Australia Winegrowing program developed by the McLaren Vale wine association over a decade ago – a rigorous program with a focus on constant improvement of vineyard and winery practices – has now been adopted on a national scale and is managed by the Australian Wine Research Institute. And a large number of McLaren Vale’s best known winegrowers are certified organic or biodynamic, including Battle of Bosworth, Yangarra, Paxton, Gemtree, Angove, d’Arenberg and Inkwell. In fact, an impressive 10 per cent of the region’s vineyards are certified, withanother seven per cent or so farmed organically or biodynamicallybut not certified. This compares to only around three per centof vineyards Australia-wide that are organic or biodynamic.“Demand for organic wines from McLaren Vale is reallystrong,” said Gemtree viticulturist Melissa Brown when I visitedher vineyard recently. “In fact, there’s now a shortage of organicand biodynamic grapes. I’m trying to convince any growers whowill listen to convert.”Brown took me down past the solar panels that power thecellar door for a walk through the eco-trail area of the property, anarea of rehabilitated bush near the creek, to show me a fenced-off area waiting to home a rescued koala. And then up to theBiodynamic Hut, where Brown stores her compost preparationsand teaches visitors about the organic farming system. It’s easyto see why Gemtree won the sustainable wine tourism award –although there’s plenty of competition in this region alone.Inkwell Wines, for example, owned by Dudley Brown and DrIrina Santiago-Brown – a viticultural sustainability expert who waskey to developing McLaren Vale’s winegrowing program – setsanother benchmark itself: not only is the vineyard certifiedorganic, but the off-grid cellar door and boutique hotel on theproperty are also constructed from upcycled shipping containersand furnished with recycled and repurposed materials.While Inkwell may be boutique, quite a few of McLaren Vale’sdevelopments in sustainable viticulture, winemaking and tourismare larger operations. Leading Riverland company, Angove FamilyWinemakers, had already started converting their extensivevineyard at Renmark on the Murray River to organics when,in 2008, they bought a property in McLaren Vale, introducingorganic and biodynamic farming here, too. Now, all 500 hectaresof vines across both regions are set to become certified, makingAngove the country’s largest organic wine brand.“We absolutely believe in organic and biodynamic viticulture,”said Angove chief winemaker Tony Ingle at a recent tasting ofshiraz and grenache blends from Warboys, their McLaren Valevineyard. “The soil is healthier, the vines are in better balance,the grapes are more intense, more flavourful.”●Top drops of the month2019 Rosnay Freedom Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre, Canowindra, $19.50In 2019, the grapes were picked a little earlier: the result is a fresh, spicy, vibrant red. rosnay.com.auY O U N G R E DApplewood Navy Gin, Adelaide Hills, $90Like Nigel Tufnel’s guitar amp in Spinal Tap, the flavour-knobs in this fabulous gin have been turned up to 11.applewooddistillery.com.auT U R N I T U P2019 O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley, $25This excellent, lemongrassy, lime-pithy Watervale is the riesling you want to drink now.olearywalkerwines.comC I T R U S Y W H I T E2018 Yarra Yering Dry Red No 3, Yarra Valley, $105A blend of Portuguese grapes – including touriga naçional, tinta cão and tinta roriz – so seductively pretty, perfumed and silky. yarrayering.comY A R R A B L E N D2018 Las VinoCBDB, MargaretRiver, $50Nic Peterkin excels withthis chenin blanc madefrom biodynamic grapesand wild-fermented inold barrels.lasvino.comW EG O W E S TGOURMET TRAVELLER43Drinks

NORCO02-BNorcoMilkSince 1895 Australians have enjoyed the dairy-goodness of Norco in the knowledge that 100% of profits go back to supporting local Norco dairy farmers. What’s more when you enjoy our simply delicious Norco Natural Cheeses you’re not just supporting local farmers you’re also supporting yourself! 3 Low in salt3 Acidophilus Cultures for gut health3 Vegetarian friendlyAuentically100% AUSTRALIANFARMER OWNED

FEBRU AR YFASTp50 Summer bowlFast weeknight staples and basics to build a meal around.RECIPES ELIZABETHFIDUCIA.PHOTOGRAPHYWILL HORNER.STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD.

Prawns with coconut rice and sambal SERVES 4When preparing the prawns, don’t remove the prawn heads, asthey’re packed with flavour – simply cut through the whole prawnfrom head to tail. Peach adds a fresh fruit element to the sambal. 300 gm jasmine rice, rinsed165 ml light coconut milk800 gm raw king prawns,halved and deveined60 ml (1/4 cup) extra-virginolive oilFinely shredded basil leaves, to serveSAMBAL50 gm shredded coconut1 red shallot, finely diced2 tbsp lime juice, plus limecheeks to serve2 tbsp fish sauce1 tbsp finely gratedpalm sugar2 tsp tamarind paste½ tsp chilli powder2 ripe peaches, halved,stones removed and cut into thin wedges1Preheat a barbecue to high ora char-grill pan over high heat.2Place rice, coconut milk and180ml water in a saucepan,cover and bring to a simmerover medium heat. Reduce heatto low and cook until all liquidis absorbed and rice is tender(12-14 minutes). Fluff with a fork,then spread on a tray to cool.3For sambal, dry-roast coconutin a frying pan over mediumheat until golden (3-4 minutes).Cool, then add to a bowl withshallot, lime juice, fish sauce,palm sugar, tamarind pasteand chilli powder, and mix tocombine. Add peaches and toss gently to combine.4Toss prawns in oil, season totaste, then grill, cut-side down,until cooked through (4 minutes).5Place coconut rice in aserving bowl, top with prawnsand coconut sambal, scatterwith basil and serve with lime.Grilled peppers and flatbread salad SERVES 4This rustic summer salad can be served as an accompaniment togrilled chicken or steak, or let it shine in its own right. If you havetime, you can remove the skins from the peppers, though there’s no need – they will bring a lovely charred flavour to the dish. 650 gm mixed bullhorn peppers (about 5 large peppers)1 tsp sumac145 ml extra-virgin olive oil2 large pitaJuice of 1 lemon1 tbsp oregano, plus extra to serve1 garlic, crushed100 gm Niçoise olives (or other small olives)1 Lebanese cucumber,shaved into ribbons1Preheat a barbecue to high ora char-grill pan over high heat.Add peppers and grill, turning,until well charred and softened (10-12 minutes). Remove fromheat, sprinkle with sumac anddrizzle over 1 tbsp oil. Cool toroom temperature, then splitpeppers lengthways (discard seeds and pith).2Brush pita with 2 tbsp oiland grill until charred and crisp (2 minutes each side).3Whisk remaining oil withlemon juice, oregano and garlic in a bowl. Season to taste.4To serve, tear pita into piecesand arrange on a platter withpeppers, olives and cucumber. Drizzle with dressing andscatter with extra oregano.PrawnsBowl fromSara G Ceramics. Platefrom Splendid WrenCeramics. Napkin fromHale Mercantile Co. Allother props stylist’sown.Grilled peppersPlatter from GD Clay.GOURMET TRAVELLER 46Fast

Turkish-spiced chicken withgrape cacikSERVES 4Elevate roasted chicken witha spice rub and yoghurt sauce.Serve with a rocket salad orsteamed kipfler potatoes.4 garlic cloves, bruised2 tsp sweet paprika2 tsp cumin seeds1½ tsp dried chilli flakes1 tsp dried mint60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil2 cinnamon quills1.2 kg chicken, butterfliedand boned (see note)GRAPE CACIK100 gm green grapes, slicedand seeds removed¼ cup chopped dill, plusextra dill sprigs to serveFinely grated zest andjuice of 1 lemon300 gm thick Greek-style yoghurt or labne1Preheat oven to 220°C.Combine garlic, spices, mintand half the oil in a bowl. Coatchicken with spice mixtureand season generously. Placechicken, skin-side up, on topof cinnamon in a roasting pan,then roast until golden andjuices run clear when thickestpart of flesh is pierced with a knife (25 minutes).2Meanwhile, for grapecacik, combine grapes, dill,lemon juice and zest andyoghurt in a serving bowland top with dill sprigs.3Transfer chicken to a board(reserve pan juices and garlic)and thickly slice. Drizzle over reserved pan juices andscatter with reserved garlic. Serve with cacik.NoteWe recommend usingfree-range chicken, suchas Slow Hills chicken.➤ChickenBowl from SplendidWren Ceramics. Napkin fromHale Mercantile Co. All other props stylist’s own.

Calamari with spiced eggplant SERVES 4Eggplant becomes a substantial and aromatic base for thissustainably caught calamari. It’s also great piled on toast.160 ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve2 eggplant, cut into1.5cm pieces1 red onion, coarselychopped2 tsp cumin seeds3 garlic cloves, crushed3 tsp finely grated turmericor 1 tsp ground turmeric2 tsp paprika60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice1 cup flat-leaf parsley,coarsely chopped, plusextra sprigs to serve1 cup coriander, coarselychopped, plus extra sprigs to serve1.5 kg whole southerncalamari, cleaned, skin offLemon wedges, to serve1Preheat a barbecue tohigh or a char-grill pan overhigh heat. Heat half the oil in alarge frying pan over medium-high heat. Add eggplant andcook, covered and stirringoccasionally, until very softand golden (12-14 minutes).2Add onion and cumin, andcook until onion has softened (3-4 minutes). Add garlic,turmeric and paprika, and cook,stirring, until fragrant (2 minutes).3Remove pan from heat, stirthrough lemon juice and 2 tbspoil. Season to taste and addherbs just before serving.4Slice calamari into 5mm-thick rounds including wings,then toss in remaining oil. Grillcalamari, turning occasionally,until just cooked and charred (3 minutes).5Spoon warm eggplant ontoplates and top with calamariand herbs. Drizzle with oil and serve with lemon wedges.

Hot and sour nectarine salad SERVES 4 AS A SIDEThis salad works well with nectarines that haven’t quite reachedtheir optimum ripeness. The hot, sour and sweet dressing addszing, making it the perfect accompaniment to barbecued fish.6 yellow nectarines, halved,stones removed, slicedinto cheeks and wedges1 cup Thai basil1 small red chilli, thinly slicedDRESSING60 ml (¼ cup) lime juice55 gm (1/4 cup) coconut sugar(see note)2 tbsp fish sauce (or to taste)2 stalks lemongrass (10cm each), thinly sliced1For dressing, combineingredients in a bowl and stiruntil sugar dissolves. Set aside to infuse (5 minutes), thenstrain through a fine sieve.2To serve, combinenectarines, basil, chilli anddressing in a bowl and toss.NoteCoconut sugar is availablefrom select supermarkets and health-food shops.➤Nectarine saladAllprops stylist’s own.CalamariBowls fromGD Clay. All otherprops stylist’s own. GOURMET TRAVELLER49Fast

Summer bowlSERVES 4For this fresh take on a poke bowl, we’ve used sustainably sourced, wild-caught Australian albacore tuna. 300 gm brown rice, rinsed50 gm roasted salted peanuts,chopped, plus extra to serve25 gm ginger (about 5cm),very finely sliced1 small red chilli, thinly sliced60 ml (¼ cup) mirin2 tbsp peanut oil2 tbsp rice wine vinegar1 tbsp soy sauce600 gm albacore tuna, cut into1cm pieces½ small golden pineapple, cut into 1cm pieces¼ cabbage, thinlysliced on a mandoline1 large avocado, dicedShiso cress (see note), to serve1Place rice and 600ml waterin a saucepan, cover and bringto a simmer over medium heat.Reduce heat to low and cookuntil water has absorbed andrice is tender (20-30 minutes). Set aside to cool to roomtemperature (30 minutes).2Meanwhile, combinepeanuts, ginger, chilli, mirin,oil, vinegar and soy in a jar,shake well and season to taste.3To serve, build bowls withrice, tuna, pineapple, cabbage and avocado. Drizzle overpeanut dressing to taste andtop with peanuts and shiso.NoteShiso cress is availablefrom select greengrocers.Asparagus and eggs with miso dressingSERVES 4Dry-roasted buckwheat adds crunch to this classic combinationof asparagus and egg, while a miso dressing takes it up a notch. 4 eggs, at room temperature4 bunches asparagus,trimmed80 ml (1/4 cup) extra-virginolive oil2 tsp shiro (white) miso3 tsp brown rice vinegar1 dried shiitake mushroom,finely grated2 tbsp buckwheat kernelsPea shoots, to serve1Bring a large saucepanof salted water to a simmer,add eggs carefully and cookuntil soft-boiled (6 minutes).Remove with a slotted spoonand submerge into iced water (30 seconds), then peel. 2Bring water back to theboil and blanch asparagus(30 seconds), then drain, refreshin iced water and drain again.3Combine oil, miso, vinegar,and shiitake in a jar; shake welluntil emulsified. Season to taste.4Dry-roast buckwheat in asmall frying pan over mediumheat until golden (3-4 minutes),then add to a mortar with apinch of sea salt and lightly crush with a pestle.5To serve, toss asparagusin dressing and transfer toa platter. Top with pea shootsand halved eggs, then scatter over buckwheat. GOURMET TRAVELLER 50