Australian Gourmet Traveller (February 2020)

500 gm frozen blackberries1 litre (4 cups) coconut ice-cream15 gm freeze driedstrawberries (see note), crushed 1Process blackberries andice-cream in a food processor, scraping down edges inbetween blending, untilcompletely smooth.2Transfer mixture to a pipingbag with a 1cm-star nozzle.Pipe into ¾-cup glasses, thensprinkle over strawberries.Serve immediately or freezefor up to an hour and serve.NoteFreeze-dried strawberries are available from select supermarkets.●Blackberry soft servesAll props stylist’s own.Summer bowlAll propsstylist’s own.Asparagusand eggsPlatter fromGD Clay. Napkin fromHale Mercantile Co. Allother props stylist’s ownBlackberrysoft servesSERVES 4A fast and refreshing take ona favourite summertime treat– all you need is a blender.GOURMET TRAVELLER51Fast

8Nigiri sushiSokyo’s executive chef CHASE KOJIMA talks us through the precise art of draping finely cut slices of seafood over hand-pressed rice.Nigiri sushi Black slate tile with gold/silver stripes, and knife, both from Ginkgo Leaf. Sake bottle, hexagonal dish, wooden sake cups and Shibori fabric, all from Provider Store. All other props stylist’s own.

Using a good rice cooker (suchPanasonic Deluxe Rice Cooker,betta.com.au) is the simplest waensure your rice is cooked evenAnd make sure to wash your ric– Kojima recommends washingit five times. “I also like tosoak it,” he says. “Whenthere’s a lot of water inthe rice, it tastes better.”Tool kitThe 22-course omakase menu by executive chef ChaseKojima and sushi chef Takashi Sano at Pyrmont’s Sokyois booked out until the end of the year, thanks to theunparalleled quality of the sushi. You’re not going tobecome a sushi master overnight – it’s a skill chefs perfect overyears of training and practise – but by following these simple steps,you can learn and appreciate the art of nigiri at home. First, alwayschoose sustainable seafood – the quality and texture is key. Thesecret to good sushi rice is the vinegar – Kojima recommends usingShiragiku rice vinegar. From here, moulding the rice and artfullyplacing the seafood is a lesson in balance. “You want to make surethe protein and the rice eat well together,” says Kojima.Step by stepover sushi vinegar and, witha rice paddle or large woodenspoon, use a cutting motion tomix vinegar through rice evenly.Don’t overmix or rice willbecome sticky from the starch.4For nikiri soy, combine150ml soy sauce, a smallpiece kombu kelp (see note)and 150ml water in a saucepanand bring to a gentle boil overmedium heat. Add 15gmkatsuobushi (bonito flakes; seenote) and simmer until infused(4-5 minutes). Cool, then strain.5To prepare the seafood(we’ve used NZ Kingsalmon, mackerel, snapper andcooked farmed prawns), cutfish using a sharp knife againstthe grain into 6mm-thick slices,and butterfly the prawns.Wrap seafood and refrigerateuntil chilled (5 minutes).6To shape nigiri sushi, usemoist hands (you can alsouse the pickling liquid from theginger), and take 1 heaped tbsprice, then press and turn inyour palm, using your indexand middle finger to mouldthe rice into an oval shape(see note below).True to form“The most important thing to consider is what type ofseafood you’re going to be using,” says Kojima. “If you’re doing nigiriwith a firmer protein such as prawns, you’ll want to form the sushirice so it’s firmer. You’ll want to roll and mould the rice four to fivetimes. For something like sea urchin, you want the rice to be super-soft, so that the rice mimics the protein. The nigiri’s texture has tobe light but firm at the same time – it can’t fall apart. Once you getused to the feel of the rice, it gets easier.” Turn to p100 for our featureon sustainable seafood.1For sushi rice, rinse 650gmsushi rice in cold water atleast 5 times until water runsclear, then soak in fresh waterfor 30 minutes. Place rice in asieve and leave to drain at roomtemperature for 30 minutes.Cook rice in a rice cooker with650ml water (use slightly lessfor firmer rice), then leave in ricecooker on warm to steam for15 minutes. (Alternatively, cookrice using absorption method.)2Meanwhile, blend 90ml ricevinegar, 1 tbsp caster sugarand 1 tbsp salt in a blender untildissolved (4-5 minutes).3Transfer warm rice ontoa hangiri (special rice dish,or use a large plastic tray), pour715as the$159,ay tonly.e7Take a piece of seafood and dot with a little wasabi. Place wasabi-side down on a portion of rice and lightly press to shape. 8Serve nigiri sushi with pickled ginger, wasabi and nikiri soy on the side. Note Kombu and katsuobushi are available from Asian grocers and supermarkets. ●MasterclassRECIPE CHASE KOJIMA. WORDS JORDAN KRETCHMER. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD.GOURMET TRAVELLER53

In Hindi, saag quite literally means“greens”. Fitting, as the base forthis vegetarian Indian dishcomprises spinach, along witharomatic spices and soft pillows of freshcheese curd known as paneer. In India,regional variations of the dish showcase different types of greens, includingamaranth leaves, mustard greens orfenugreek, which are boiled, blanchedand flavoured with a mixture of spices,ghee, onion and garlic. At his mod-Indian restaurant Don’t Tell Aunty inSydney, Jessi Singh likes to add a pinchof ground asafoetida, a spice made fromthe roots of ferula (a flowering plantin the carrot family), to up the umami.This comforting Indian classic can bemade in bulk, then portioned andfrozen for easy mid-week meals.At Don’t Tell Aunty in Sydney, Singh offers a simple palakpaneer made with spinach, broccoli and fenugreek, which isserved with rice and naan. In Melbourne, Cafe Saffron replacespaneer with cottage cheese for an extra creamy alternative.FinditIt’s easy being green with thisspice-fuelled Indian classic.THE CHEESEPaneer is a fresh,unsalted white cheese.Like other varieties ofthe fresh cheese family(haloumi, queso fresco),paneer doesn’t meltwhen exposed toextreme heat, makingit an ideal addition tothe hot saag mixture.It can be used as is inthe dish, or first lightlyfried until golden. If youcan’t find paneer usefirm cottage cheeseor ricotta salata; forvegans, substitute thecheese for firm tofu.THE GREENSThe most common version ofthis dish is palak (spinach) paneer.Some recipes suggest using frozenspinach, but fresh leaves makefor a drier, more textural saag.Boiled, blanched in iced water andthoroughly drained, the spinach isthen blitzed in a blender and gentlycooked with ghee and spices tocreate a fragrant purée. Moderninterpretations of this recipe alsouse broccoli for extra crunch.THE SPICESSpices bring the subtleflavours of the greensto life. Garlic, onion andchilli are essentials, asare dry spices such asgaram masala, cuminand turmeric. Theseare cooked in a fryingpan with ghee, resultingin a heady, perfumedpaste in which thegreens are simmered.SaagpaneerGOURMET TRAVELLER 54Anatomy of a dishWORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD. ALL PROPS STYLIST’S OWN.

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As pollinators, architects and cooks, bees play a criticalrole in our ecosystem, writesMAGGIE SCARDIFIELD. Plus, they give us nature’s sweetest treat. WorkerbeesPHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING VIVIEN WALSH.

There are 1700 native species of bees in Australia, as well as the introduced species: the European honeybee, apis mellifera. Sure as hell, at least one of these bees stung you as a child: perhaps while running under the sprinkler in the hot January sun, at the local swimming pool or playing backyard cricket. More often than not, being stung by a bee is a human’s first encounter with the tiny, diligent insects that waggle-dance from plant to plant, flower to flower, pollinating a massive one-third of the world’s food supply in the process. Some of them sting. But there are plenty of other reasons to look out for them, too.BEES ARE A T MA JOR RISKGlobal bee populations have been in decline for years. Varroa mite disease is one of the biggest causes: a tiny parasite with the power to unravel our entire food system. Australia is one of the only varroa-free zones in the world, and so far it's managed to avoid the mite and colony collapse disorder (where entire hives are wiped out overnight). “We still have great, healthy colonies and the best conditions for honeybees anywhere on earth,” says urban beekeeper Nic Dowse, founder of Melbourne creative studio, Honeyfingers. “But how can we keep it that way? It’s all about communication.”BEES ARE COOKSDowse produces small-batch, raw honey in urban hivesacross Melbourne, and his studio works to educate peopleon the collective intelligence of bees and their importanceto our food system. One of his favourite topics is how beescook and ferment their own food, just as humans mightbake sourdough bread or turn surplus cabbage into kimchi.\"A beehive is a very warm and humid place, about 35degrees, and any food would spoil at that,” Dowse says.“The bees ferment their pollen to control the decay rate.It’s a lactic-acid ferment and the same process humansuse to make bread.”BEES FEED USBees are needed to produce countless products we rely on(coffee, cotton, myriad fruits, seeds and nuts). Broadcasterand avid gardener Indira Naidoo had never seen bees onher balcony in inner-city Sydney, until she began growingher own food. “I thought that was a good thing becauseI am allergic to bees,” she says. It wasn’t until her zucchiniflowers weren’t ripening into zucchini that she realised thecritical role pollinators play in feeding us. “Now I don’t thinkabout eating what I grow,” she says. “It’s more about, oh,the bees are going to love this borage!”BEES W ORK FOR FREEA massive 70 per cent of bees in Australia are wild, whichessentially means they’re working to pollinate our crops forfree. Climate change poses a huge risk to this. Not onlybecause bees are losing their natural habitat as fires burnand drought wages on, but high temperatures are causingcrops to flower at irregular times, which is confusing for thebees. “We have to have an open, honest discussion aroundwhat our future is going to look like if we don’t have thosefree pollination services,” says Dowse.BEES ARE ENGINEERSAND ARCHITECT SThe shape of honeycomb, the hexagon, is known for itsefficiency and strength, and has been employed the worldover for everything from nuts and bolts to the insulation inaeroplane wings. “It’s good under compression, and usesthe least amount of material for the most volume gained,”says Dowse. “It’s quite magical to think that bees havefigured this out by working together over millennia.”BEES L O VE THE CITYAt Yerrabingin, the Indigenous-run native rooftop gardenin Sydney’s South Eveleigh, there are more than 2000native plants. Many of them, such as hardenbergia, havebeen planted to lure bees. “Normally it’s quite difficult toattract them to rooftops as they don’t really like the wind,or to fly too far or too high,” says co-founder ClarenceSlockee. “But we’ve had a heap up here.” This doesn'tsurprise Dowse, who believes that bees will not onlysurvive, but thrive in our cities, if we put in the work. “Thedrought hits us last. We don’t have floods. We don’t havebroad-acre chemicals being sprayed,” he says. “We’re inthe last continental golden age of beekeeping on earth.With that comes huge responsibility.” More often than not, being stung is a human’s first encounter with the insects that pollinate one-third of the world’s food supply.GOURMET TRAVELLER 58RECIPE LISA FEATHERBY. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR (HONEYCOMB & TART) & GETTY IMAGES (BEE). STYLING VIVIEN WALSH.

4 figs, halved, to serve250 gm blackberries, to serve60 gm organic raw honey, to serveNUT BASE100 gm rolled oats250 gm macadamias100 gm almonds75 gm pitted Medjool dates(about 6), coarsely chopped70 gm (⅓ cup) coconut butter (see note)Honey and macadamia tartwith figs and blackberriesSERVES 8 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 45 MINS (PLUS COOLING, CHILLING)Honey is the hero in this luscious dairy-free tart, which combinesa crunchy nutty base with a creamy filling and fresh seasonalfruit. It is best kept refrigerated until you’re ready to serve.MACADAMIA-HONEY- CREAM FILLING350 gm macadamias35 gm creamed honey70 gm (⅓ cup) coconut butter1For nut base, preheatoven to 160°C. Bake oatson an oven tray until golden(15-20 minutes), then cool.Meanwhile, roast nuts onanother tray until golden (10-12 minutes). Cool, thenprocess with oats in a foodprocessor until finely ground butwith some texture. Add datesand process until combined,then add coconut butter anda pinch of salt, and blend until mixture appears damp.2Line a 22cm-diameterspringform pan with bakingpaper and press nut mixtureinto base and 3cm up the sides, pressing firmly to compact.Transfer pan to refrigerator andchill until firm and set (1 hour).3For filling, boil macadamiasin a saucepan of boiling wateruntil soft (20-25 minutes). Drainwell, then transfer to a foodprocessor with honey and coconut butter and blend untilsmooth. Gradually add 250mlhot water, adding extra wateras necessary, and blend untilsmooth. Set filling aside to cool, then pour into tart case andrefrigerate until chilled (3 hours).4To serve, top tart with figsand blackberries, and drizzle over honey.NoteCoconut butter is availablefrom select supermarkets andhealth-food shops. Bring toroom temperature and stirwell to emulsify before using.●TartTea towelin toffee from InBed Store. All otherprops stylist’s own.

se l ec t ionsNa tu r al

Ditching single-use plastic, going vegan and flying less aren’t the onlyways to lead a more eco-conscious lifestyle.ALEXANDRA CARLTONdiscovers some other changes to help reduce your own carbon footprint.PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.

Local, grass-fedbeef farmed ona small-scaleusing consciouspractices is theway forward.South Australian wine company Unico Zelo has a radical approach to grape-growing: wherepossible, they give their vines only minimal water. “We’re oddballs,” says co-owner Brendan Carter oftheir place in an industry that uses 440 billion litres of water for irrigation in Australia each year. ButCarter’s reasoning is anything but odd. We live on a dry continent, so we should be growing grapesthat can tolerate dry conditions. “If a plant can’t survive on the water that nature naturally brings toit, then technically it shouldn’t be there,” says Carter. The company’s signature, single-vineyard winesare made from drought-hardy grapes, fiano and nero d’Avola, grown in the Clare Valley, Riverlandand Adelaide Hills regions of South Australia. Taking into account Adelaide’s drought conditions,he estimates that these lesser known varieties use as little as one or two megalitres per hectare for irrigation, compared to the 10 or so megalitres commonly used on other vineyards. It’s common knowledge thatindustrialised beef production hasa significant environmental impact.A recent study by the University ofAustralia, funded by Meat & LivestockAustralia, revealed that it takes180-540 litres of water to produceone kilogram of red meat. Cattle isalso estimated to be responsible for14.5 per cent of the methane releasedinto the atmosphere annually. Onesolution is to become entirelyvegetarian, but that doesn’tnecessarily solve everything: in theUS, the humble asparagus hasa more detrimental environmentalimpact than pork or veal thanks toits shipping costs, and in Australia,runoff from sugarcane productionnegatively affects the Great BarrierReef. Rather than cutting out beef,a better option may be simply to cutdown and choose local, grass-fedbeef, farmed on a small scale usingconscious practices. “A little bit of beefraised on grass that is close to wherethe beef is eaten, raised on land thatisn’t suitable for other crops? Thatwon’t kill the world, it may help feed it,”says Tasmanian farmer and authorMatthew Evans in his book,On EatingMeat. “But beef that is grain-fedfrom areas being deforested orovergrazed? That has the potentialto bring all good farming undone.”DROUGHT-TOLERANT WINEBETTER MEATDRINKE ATA staggering one-third of the food wegrow or manufacture never makesit into our mouths, but it createsenormous amounts of greenhousegas as it breaks down. Sustainabilityresearch organisation ProjectDrawdown estimates that if foodwastage was reduced by 50 per centby 2050, we’d save a whopping 26.2gigatons of carbon dioxide per year.It’s a reality that is of increasingimportance to food producers andrestaurateurs such as Brad Simpson,executive chef of Acre Farm andEatery in Melbourne’s Burwood East.“I didn’t take this job for the paycheque, but because I really liked theconcept and I was passionate aboutlearning more,” he says. The Acreproject comprises a restaurant,greenhouses, beehives, a chickencoop and compost systems, andSimpson has also translated a lot ofwhat he does on the job into his ownlife. “My son loves an apple but heleaves most of it behind so I makevinegar with the cores,” he says.“My wife and I also keep a diary eachweek of what we’re eating andwho’s in charge of it, and we shopaccordingly.” This approach hasyielded some welcome benefits thatgo beyond the environment. “Notonly is it raising our son to be healthy,but it’s saving us money too.”➤LESS FOODTHROW AWAYGOURMET TRAVELLER 62PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES (COWS).

Jordan BroganThe head chefof plant-basedAlibi in Sydney isvegetarian at home. “I don’t class myself as vegan orvegetarian but since working atAlibi, I’ve stopped buying meatat home,” says Brogan. “We only drink almond milk and we buyvegan mince and vegan sausages, like we use at work. I’ll eat alittle bit of meat when I go to arestaurant, however, especially if it’s a dégustation.”

Signs in bathrooms about reusingyour towels simply don’t cut it when itcomes to assessing the sustainabilityof your hotel, cruise or other traveloperator. A better option is to look foraccreditation from a reputable source,such as Ecotourism Australia. “Ourprogram is really comprehensive,” saysthe not-for-profit’s communicationsand audit manager, Lina Cronin.“Businesses have to address how theylook after their natural environmentwith things like water, waste andenergy. Then we look at how thebusiness engages with their localcommunity, such as its staff andsuppliers. It’s also about their carbonemissions, and how they treat wildlife,such as endangered species. It’sreally in-depth and a lot of work fora business to achieve certification.”Astonishingly, the number one thing people could do to dramatically cutdown the world’s greenhouse emissions has nothing to do with goingvegetarian or switching to electric cars. It’s much more boring than that:keep up the maintenance on your large household appliances. Accordingto Project Drawdown, fixing leaking refrigerant fluids from fridges andair-conditioners, and disposing of them responsibly after they are nolonger in use, would “do more than any other action to help theenvironment”. In fact, one tonne of hydrofluorocarbon (HFC 23) isequivalent to releasing 14,800 tonnes of carbon dioxide into theatmosphere. Choose energy-efficient appliances and make sure repair anddisposal is carried out by technicians with refrigerant handling licences. GREEN FROMGREENWA SHING WHENTRAVELLING YOUR FRIDGESEPARATEFIXPHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.Look for certifiedsustainableaccommodationwhen travelling.GOURMET TRAVELLER 64

Each cruise fromCoral Expeditions,who are certified by EcotourismAustralia, carries a maximum of120 passengers, and travels toremote locationsaround Australia and the SouthPacific withoutoverwhelmingthe environment.Where possible,their small-batchcuisine is sourcedlocally, and menus are built aroundthe seasonalityof produce. Thecompany alsosupports local sustainableinitiatives such asthe Cairns Turtle RehabilitationCentre, andtree planting inTakabonerateAtoll, southern Indonesia.Over-tourism is more than just bumping shoulders with thousands at the Trevi Fountain. It also sucks up resources and depletes local culture. Here are three Australiandestinations worth putting on your bucket list to travel off-the-beaten track:AliceSprings, NTThis vibrant town hostsregular events includingthe LGTBI festival, FabAlice, and the Indigenouslight installation, Parrtjima.Bairnsdale, VicThis small town in EastGippsland is the perfectplace to base yourselfto access the region’slakes and wineries. Stanley, TasSitting near the Tarkinewilderness is this quirkyseaside town. Book a suiteat the converted heritage pub, The Ship Inn.“‘Treat’ food is supposed to be there to treat us, but you only need to look at the biscuitor chocolate aisle in the supermarket to see that consumption is above any level thatcould be considered a treat,” says Dr Michalis Hadjikakou, a research fellow at theSchool of Life and Environmental Sciences at Deakin University. In fact, he says,it’s estimated that 35 per cent of our carbon and land use footprint comes fromdiscretionary – ie, treat – foods, rather than foods that meet our basic nutritional needssuch as vegetables, grains, lean meats and dairy. “We should be prioritising core foodand saving treats for special occasions,” he says. “So by all means go out to that nicerestaurant and order that dessert. But don’t drink soft drinks on a daily basis.”●“TREAT” EATINGCUT DOWN ONLO C A LTR IP SGOURMET TRAVELLER65

NO TFrom takeaway containers to cling film, plastic has always been a key part of many restaurant kitchens, writes LEE TRAN LAM. But as chefs aim to be more sustainable, is running a plastic-free business possible?

Restaurant kitchens are so dependent onplastic that a chef once punched LennoxHastie in the stomach for misplacing aroll of cling film. “I was so upset,” saysHastie, who runs Sydney’s Firedoor. “Iwas pretty young and I burst into tears.” He’d simplyput the cling film on the left side of the kitchen,instead of the right – and while his boss’s overreactionwas out of line, it also proves that plastic wrap ruleskitchens. At the first restaurant Hastie worked in – atage 15, in Sussex, England – he repeatedly reached forthe plastic. He’d tend to a chicken stock or let a vealbroth bubble away for nine hours, then tightly covereach one with cling film once it was done. “Which wascompletely stupid,” he says, “because as soon as it coolsdown, it has a natural layer of fat to protect it.” But hey, he was just a kid, obeying older chefs.Plastic was so key to his culinaryeducation that he was taught howto expertly cover things. The correctapproach was to use the smallestamount possible – a trick that somechefs could stand to learn. “They’llwrap something and it’s like they’rewrapping a Christmas present: round and round, so many times.” Butgoing through wads of cling filmwas normal at top restaurants with somany ingredients to prep and preserve. Andin many big UK kitchens, Hastie noticed eachsection would label their roll, because it was aprized item that other chefs might steal.With a working history so tightly layered withcling film, it’s surprising to learn there isn’t a singleroll in the Firedoor kitchen. The chef has been activelyremoving plastic from his business – and in doingso, joins a wave of hospitality figures trying to banishthis environmental hazard from their venues. Withthe advent of climate strikes, zero-waste initiatives(such as Plastic Free July) and the Ellen MacArthurFoundation’s finding that “there will be more plasticthan fish in the ocean, by weight, in 2050”, it’s nowonder people want to reduce the damage doneby single-use plastics.“We got rid of plastic straws a couple of years ago,”says Hastie. “We now have either metal straws or haystraws.” Firedoor uses glass storage jars and other permanent containers, instead of cling film. Hastiecredits the rise of sustainable product ranges, plusbacking from his team (especially his sous-chef JasonWhite), as inspiration for the plastic-free push.Suppliers have supported the move and transportingredients in boxes that they take back with them.That said, he’s had to convince some producers notto deliver ingredients mummified in layers of plastic.Storing produce in an excessive amount of wrappingonly degrades its quality, anyway – it’s why Josh Nilanddoesn’t use cling film at Sydney’s Saint Peter and FishButchery. “If you cling-filmed your arm, your armwould smell gross,” he toldGourmet Travellerin 2017.Doing that to fish would create the same effect. Soavoiding plastic isn’t just good for the environment, it also makes your food taste better.“This is a bit ropey, let’s get rid of these…”was Darren Robertson’s response to takeaway plasticcontainers in the early days of Three Blue Ducks, whichbegan as an 18-seat café in Sydney’s Bronte in 2010, andhas since expanded into four locations on the east coast,including a venue in Byron Bay located on a 32-hectarefarm. Sure, it’s impressive that the plastic containers aregone, as are the plastic straws and bags. But the Jugglercafé milk tap system, first installed in Bronte, is evenmore so. This chilled-milk dispensingsystem is both eco-friendly andefficient: milk is delivered in 10-litrelots that load into the chiller, makingplastic bottles unnecessary. Onceinstalled, Robertson’s team no longerhad to empty one-and-a-half bins ofplastic a week. “And that was just atBronte.” It’s now in all Three BlueDucks outposts, and has saved around200,000 plastic milk bottles in total.By offering sugarcane-based takeaway containers,a water fountain rather than bottled water, house-made cold-press juices in glass bottles and a coolerprogram to replace the polystyrene boxes from theirfish suppliers, among other admirable moves, ThreeBlue Ducks has drastically cut down on waste. But thebusiness isn’t fully plastic-free. “We’re still searching fora compostable cling film solution,” says Robertson.➤ “There will be moreplastic than fish inthe ocean in 2050”so it’s no wonderpeople want toreduce the damage.GOURMET TRAVELLER67PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES.

Sydney’s Firedoor. Clockwise from top right: beef tendon, rosella and plum vinegar at Oakridge, Coldstream, Vic; char-grilled kohlrabi, chimichurri and almonds at Young George, Perth; Three Blue Ducks, Sydney; Pho Nom, Melbourne. GOURMET TRAVELLER 68

Darren RobertsonChef & co-owner,Three Blue DucksLennox HastieHead chef & owner,FiredoorJo BarrettCo-executive chef,OakridgeJerry MaiExecutive chef & owner,Pho NomMelissa PalinkasExecutive chef & co-owner,Young GeorgeChefs leading the wayWITH PLASTIC-FREE KITCHENSIn the meantime, they’ve still got four large rolls of cling film left, so the chef told his team: “Let’s see if we can stretch this out and make it last a year.” Jo Barrett credits her time at the now-closed zero- waste café Brothl for inspiring the sustainable approach at Oakridge in Victoria. “I am also a keen open-water swimmer, and it makes me so sad every time I see a piece of plastic floating by, because I know the damage that it is causing to our environment,” she says. To her, wrapping dough in sheets of plastic seemed excessive, so her kitchen splurged on an eco-friendly alternative: a prover, even though such equipment can cost thousands. Oakridge’s old-school tactic of receiving milk in buckets, meanwhile, has spared the world an extra 8060 plastic bottles so far. “And we are just one business,” Barrett says. “Imagine if everyone joined in.”At Jerry Mai’s three quick-service Pho Nom eateries in Melbourne, minimising plastic is a challenge: each restaurant might deal with 200 orders a day with a significant amount as takeaway meals. It’s why she’s adopted the Returnr system. “It’s a new closed-loop takeaway-food initiative where customers pay a deposit for a reusable container and can redeem the deposit in full when they return the dish,” she says. It could be revolutionary if it takes off. For Mai, the “toughest part” of going plastic-free has been convincing suppliers to phase out Styrofoam and disposable packaging, which she achieved after six months of intense phone calls. It was the birth of her son two years ago that inspired these changes. “I want to preserve his right and his future generations’ right to enjoy nature, breathe clean air and climb (and fall out of) trees like I was able to when I was a kid,” she says.Likewise, it’s the next generation that galvanises Robertson. “For all of our younger chefs coming through, it’s a priority for them,” he says. On a recent trip to Buenos Aires, he noticed that many chefs were having the same discussions about sustainability. “There’s a global movement,” Robertson adds. Banishing single-use plastic is also a priority for Melissa Palinkas – co-owner and executive chef at Perth restaurant Young George – who has spent $8000 implementing a new container storage system. “I found Cambro containers, and I haven’t looked back,” she says. “They’re indestructible and have suction lids to lock in freshness.” For Hastie, the cost of such improvements isn’t a deterrent. “The cheapest way is to continue using cling film, obviously. It’s the easy thing and that’s what it is – it’s convenient. But the investment in the permanentstuff is something that lasts,” he says. “It’s going to cost the restaurant a lot more, but the environment a lot less. And I feel better about that.” ●GOURMET TRAVELLER69PHOTOGRPHY JASON LOUCAS (OAKRIDGE), JAMES MORGAN (JERRY MAI), NIKKI TO (FIREDOOR, LENNOX HASTIE, DARREN ROBERTSON & THREE BLUE DUCKS) & GETTY IMAGES (STRAWS).

BraveW OR LDN EWMeet the forward-thinking brands forging a better future byfocusing on purpose over profit without skimping on luxury.WordsJORDAN KRETCHMER & KARLIE VERKERK

Now, more than ever, it’s possible to dine (and drink) in good conscience. As restaurants and barsturn their focus to sustainability and eco-friendly practices, issues such as food wastage, using single-use plastics and excessive transportation of produce are being addressed.Restaurants such as Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel in Victoria’s Dunkeld, Arimia in Western Australia’sYallingup, and The Agrarian Kitchen in Tasmania’s New Norfolk are leading the farm-to-table movementby growing their own produce. Saint Peter and Nomad in Sydney have adopted a nose-to-tail ethos,making use of the whole animal to promote a strong connection with food origins and reduce waste.At new Melbourne bar Byrdi, you won’t find imported spirits on the menu; in place of mezcal, they aremaking their own smoky spirit, taking charred Yarra Valley pears and cooking them sous-vide beforeinfusing them in a grain spirit. Other spirits are sourced from local distilleries, while milk, honey, fruitand herbs are all provided from local farms and producers. Sydney’s PS40 create all their own house-made sodas from discarded citrus left over from bar service, and pour them from taps (to reduce post-mix plastic bags and individual bottles).➤EATING GREENWickens atRoyal Mail Hotel’sorganic kitchengarden. Right,from top: pork ragùtagliatelle at Arimia,Western Australia;Wickens, Victoria. GOURMET TRAVELLER71PHOTOGRAPHYEMILYWEAVING (WICKENS GARDEN & RESTAURANT)& JESSICA WYLD (ARIMIA).

This opulent bush camp on the NSW South Coast doesn’t come at the expense of the environment surrounding it. Since opening in 1999, Jervis Bay’s Paperbark Camp has kept sustainability at its heart, building environmentally sympathetic tents complete with solar lighting, natural ventilation, rainwater tanks, recycled paper, and natural furnishings and amenities. paperbarkcamp.com.auESCAPE TO THE COUNTRYGOURMET TRAVELLER 72

ONE TO WATCH When you think of a classic Rolex, visions of explorers scaling Mount Everest or diving to the depths of the ocean to study the effects of climate change might not necessarily spring to mind. But these are exactly the types of expeditions Rolex has been supporting for the past 70 years, all in the name of science. In partnership with the National Geographic Society, Rolex has long promoted exploration and conservation, and will continue to do so with the introduction of their latest initiative, Perpetual Planet. It will provide explorers with world-renowned scientific expertise and cutting-edge technology to help discover new insights about the impacts of climate change on our mountains, oceans and rainforests. rolex.comWhat is B Corp Certification?It’s a private certification issued to for-profit companies by B Lab, a global non-profit organisation. Certified B Corporations are businesses that meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose.SNEAKYMOVESThe world of sneakers has long been tied up inethically questionable practices from the materialsused to the often underpaid people who make them.Veja have disrupted the market to deliver Fairtradesneakers made using organic cotton, wild rubberand innovative fabrics made from recycled plasticbottles. Wear these kicks and be proud to knowthe increasingly ubiquitous V-adorned sneakersaren’t just a fashion statement, but a shoe thatchooses ethics over economics.veja-store.comThe average Australian discards around 23 kilograms of clothes a year. Glam Corner’s fashion subscription service hires pieces to wear-then-return monthly, acting like a personal sartorial library. The collection has plenty of statement pieces to supplement your wardrobe staples – think bright, patterned Gorman dresses, leopard-print pants by Cameo and floaty floral numbers by Zimmermann. glamcorner.com.auCONSCIOUS STAYS Crystalbrook Collection’s series of luxury Australian hotels and boats in Cairns, Sydney, Byron Bay and Port Douglas is making a conscious shift in the environmental space, all without forgoing the luxury that is expected at five-star properties. In the kitchens, you’ll find 80 per cent of the produce is sourced within three hours’ drive including high welfare-standard beef, which is farmed at Crystalbrook stations in North Queensland. The hotels also work with OzHarvest to distribute unused food. During their stay, guests use recycled wooden key cards and are encouraged to refill bottles with filtered water, which helps to save around 250,000 plastic bottles each year per hotel. crystalbrookcollection.comByron at Byron’spool, NSW.Eternal beautyFluff burst onto the scene in 2018 with slick, small-run beauty products, limited to bronzing powder and tints. “We talk a lot about sustainability versus responsibility at Fluff,” says founder Erika Geraerts. “We know the most sustainable thing we could do is to stop producing and stop consuming. But the next best – and most responsible thing – is to produce fewer, better products. For us, this means formulas that are as natural as possible, from sources we can trace.” Packaging for each item is minimal and refillable, using materials that are designed to last. “We believe purpose and profit can exist within business,” she says. “This isn’t rocket science, it just makes sense.” itsallfluff.com ➤Jewel purpose Sydney-based jewellery designer Holly Ryan makes each of her pieces by hand, using recycled and re-used metals, along with vintage, recycled and ethically sourced stones. Ryan also offers an in-house repair service and has a recycling system for items that are no longer worn, where pieces can be returned for a store credit or redesigned. hollyryan.com.auGOURMET TRAVELLER73PHOTOGRAPHY MICHAEL WEE (BYRON AT BYRON) & ERIKA YIN (PAPERBARK CAMP).

Sample the goodsA morning cup of coffee is one of life’s simple luxuries.Sample Coffee in Sydney’s Surry Hills and St Peters roastand deliver excellent coffee with a focus on sustainability,and have deliberately remained small to ensure that theymaintain respectful environmental and social practices.The B Corp-certified business is transparent in whereit sources its coffee, offers a 50 per cent discount forcustomers who use reusable cups, and conducts a yearlyimpact report to monitor and measure its changes andprogress in the sustainability space.samplecoffee.com.auThe natural wayVapour Organic Beauty iscommitted to enhancingbeauty across the spectrumof age, race and genderby ensuring the purityand performance of itsingredients, all whileremaining transparent andsustainable. Along withbeing completely crueltyfree, all of Vapour’s labs,offices and warehouses usesolar- and wind-poweredenergy, and it only sourcespackaging from mindfullymanaged forests. Theproducts are available viaBond Clean Beauty, an onlinestore that stocks beautybrands that make organic,chemical-free and Fairtrademake-up and skincare.bondcleanbeauty.comGO GLOBAL,ACT LOCALLuxury travel company Abercrombie& Kent takes responsible tourism tothe next level. With 42 projects setup in more than 20 countries, itsmission is to positively impact livesand livelihoods in the communitieswhere its guests travel. Take, forexample, the Sishemo bead studioin Zambia, Africa, where it supportslocal artisans who create jewelleryout of glass recycled from discardedbottles. And in Tanzania, Botswanaand Uganda, the company hashelped empower local communitiesthrough mobility, by providing themwith shipments of second-handbikes.abercrombiekent.com.auSLOW GEARThe Social Outfit offers fashion-forward pieces, adorned witharchival Romance Was Born andLinda Jackson prints, customKen Done collaborations, andpatterns designed by communitycentres. Given each line’ssmall run and deep communityconnections (the businessemploys people from refugeeand new migrant communities,and trains them in clothingproduction, retail, design andmarketing), this people-first,sustainably minded enterpriseis the antithesis of fast fashion.thesocialoutfit.orgLocal wildlife, Tanzania.GOURMET TRAVELLER 74PHOTOGRAPHY NOAH WARD (UNICO ZELO) & GETTY IMAGES (TANZANIA).

For McLaren Vale wineries Gemtree Wines and Angove Family Winemakers, green isas important as red and white. Recently awarded the global winner for Sustainable WineTourism Practices, Gemtree Wines is both certified organic and biodynamic. Their cellardoor is also worth a mention – it’s sustainably built with recycled materials and sits nextto a 10-hectare nature reserve, which the family planted with over 50,000 natives. AngoveFamily Winemakers, a fifth-generation family-owned winery, was awarded Business ofthe Year at the Australian Organic Industry Awards.gemtreewines.com, angove.com.auHappy hourUnico Zelo is at the forefront of theAustralian wine and spirits scene,crafting wines and yuzu vermouth,plus limoncello, gin and amaro via itsApplewood Distillery offshoot. Alongwith this extensive range of tipples,Unico Zelo is constantly evolvingits business to maintain its B CorpCertification. The winemakerskeep consumers up to date withtheir improvements and goals via ahandy spreadsheet that documentsinitiatives from creating onsitecomposting to ditching one-waydelivery pallets.unicozelo.com.au●T OP OF THE CLA SSOrganicvsbiodynamicvssustainableThere are myriad certifications in the wine industry,and each category has different founding principles.Organic:Purity of product using non-synthesised ingredients.Biodynamic:Holistic agricultural health.Sustainable:Mitigation and reduction of wastefulness.

SU B SC R I BE & R EC E I V E A BON US C OPY OFGOURMET TRAVELLER’SFAVOURITE ITALIAN RECIPESmagshop.com.au/gt202Savings based on cover price of $9.99. For Terms and Conditions, visit magshop.com.au/gt202. Please see contents page for location of our Privacy Notice. If you do not want your information provided to any organisation not associated with this off er, please indicate this clearly at time of order or notify the Promoter in writing. Off er valid from 27/01/2020 to 23/02/2020 to Australian residents only. After the first 12 issues, the subscription will automatically renew and be billed as $74.99 every 12 issues thereafter. Subscription renews unless cancelled.SUBSCRIBE & RECEIVE+12 ISSUESofGourmet Travellerfor $74.99 via automatic renewal+A BONUScopy ofGourmet Traveller’sItaliancookbook+SAVE 41%on the newsstand price+FREE DELIVERYof the magazine to your home each monthALREADY A SUBSCRIBER?Simply extend your subscription to receive this offerHurry! Offer ends 23 February

)136 116 and quote M202GMTVALUED AT$59.99Gourmet Traveller celebrates one of the world’s greatest cuisines in a hardcover collection of our favourite Italian recipes. The book brings together more than 100 dishes from leading chefs and the Gourmet Traveller food team, from antipasti to dolci and everything in between. Find recipes for crudo, fried zucchini flowers and pasta every which way, risotto and large-format dishes such as meatballs with polenta and crisp veal cotoletta, and of course, tiramisù, cannoli and semifreddo to finish.

INTRODUCING SLOW HILLS CHICKENA SPECIALTY BREED WITH A FULL AND SUCCULENT FLAVOURLike a perfectly tender Sunday roast, a little extra time can make all the difference.Coles is proud to bring you Slow Hills Chicken, a special breed of free range chicken which matures for longer on RSPCA Approved farms for a full and succulent flavour. Available in specialty cuts such as skin-on thigh fillets. Selected stores only. To fnd where you can purchase Slow Hills Chicken, visit coles.com.au/slowhillsFind delicious recipe inspiration like our Roast Chicken with Butter and Tarragon Stuffng at coles.com.au/slowhillsProduct sold uncooked. Serving suggestion only.

FEBRU AR YFOODp104Oysters withpomegranatedressingPlant-based dishes, Emma McCaskill’s zero-waste menu,sustainable seafood, Hartwood’s barbecue, and whole-food recipes. Pure and simplePHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY. STYLING LYNSEY FRYERS.

RecipesTAYLOR CULLEN, LISA FEATHERBY, GUY JEFFREYS, BRENT SAVAGE, MATT STONE, LOUIS TIKARAM & ADAM WOLFERSPhotographyALICIA TAYLORStylingVIVIEN WALSHGARDENSTATESevenchefsbringtheircreativitytothetabletocelebrate the beauty of plant-based cooking.

p82Rawzucchini,pine nutand misosaladMATT STONE, OAKRIDGE

Raw zucchini, pine nut and miso saladSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS INFUSING)“This is a great summer salad,” says Matt Stone. “At home we mostly eat vegan. It’sa great way to keep a balanced diet and do our bit for the environment.”Pictured p81.Coal-roasted eggplant with black garlic SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 30 MINS (PLUS DRYING, INFUSING, COOLING, MARINATING)“We created this dish in the early days after Yellow converted to afully plant-based menu,” says Brent Savage. “The thinking behindit was to create an alternative to pork belly, using eggplant.” Thisdish has been simplified slightly from the original for home cooks.40 gm (¼ cup) pepitas1 zucchini, finely slicedon a mandoline2 round golden squash,finely sliced on a mandoline4 baby zucchini with flowers, halved lengthways,stamens removed3-4 preserved artichokeswith stems, halvedCalendula or marigoldflowers (see note), to serve Sunflower sprouts(see note), to serveDRESSING1 tsp coriander seeds1 small golden shallot, finely diced1 long green chilli,finely diced½ preserved lemon, fleshremoved, finely diced1 tbsp chardonnay vinegar50 ml olive oil3 eggplant (about 360gmeach), halved lengthways2 tsp vegetable oilSliced black garlic(see note), to serveEGGPLANT SAUCE1 1/2 tbsp vegetable oil1 long green chilli, seedsremoved, finely sliced1 long red chilli, seedsremoved, finely sliced2 garlic cloves,coarsely chopped15 gm ginger (about 3cm),coarsely chopped60 ml (¼ cup) red wine vinegar 25 gm caster sugar125 ml (½ cup) white soy sauce (see note)PINE NUT MISO100 gm pine nuts2 tbsp chickpea miso (see note)1For dressing, dry-roastcoriander seeds in a frying panover medium heat until fragrant(1-2 minutes). Lightly crushwith a mortar and pestle, thenwhisk with remaining dressingingredients and season totaste. Leave to infuse for atleast 30 minutes.2Meanwhile, for pine nutmiso, preheat oven to 180°C.Roast pine nuts on an oventray, shaking tray occasionally,until light golden (4-6 minutes).Cool, then grind with a mortarand pestle until smooth. Addmiso and grind until smooth,adding warm water, if needed,to make a spreadable paste. BLACK GARLIC SEASONING1 tsp (firmly packed) driedblack garlic skins(from 1 bulb; see note)⅔ tsp horseradish powder (see note)⅓ tsp almond mealROASTED ALMOND PURÉE100 gm crustlesssourdough bread150 gm blanchedalmonds, roasted250 ml (1 cup) vegetable oil 25 ml lemon juiceALMOND DUKKAH1½ tbsp coriander seeds2 tsp cumin seeds½ tsp crushed black pepper¼ tsp chilli flakes100 gm blanched almonds,roasted, coarsely chopped1For eggplant sauce, bringingredients and 250ml waterto the boil over high heat in asaucepan, then reduce heat tolow until sauce reaches 75°C(10 minutes). Set aside to infuse(2 hours). Strain through a finesieve and top up with water tomake 350ml. Cool. 30 minutesbefore steaming, marinateeggplant in 100ml sauce in adeep tray, turning occasionally.2Meanwhile, for black garlicseasoning, combine ingredientswith a pinch of salt and grindwith a mortar and pestleto a fine powder.3For purée, add bread and250ml water to a blender andleave to soak (1 minute). Addalmonds and blend until smooth.With motor running, add oil in athin, steady stream until mixtureis thick. Season with lemon juiceand 1 tsp salt, adding extra waterif needed. Cover and set aside.4For dukkah, dry-roast spicesin a frying pan over mediumheat, stirring occasionally, untilfragrant (2 minutes). Coarsely 3Roast pepitas in a fryingpan over medium heat, stirringconstantly, until puffed andlightly toasted (3-4 minutes).4Spread pine nut miso onserving plates, arrange zucchini,squash, baby zucchini andartichoke, building some heightas you arrange. Add flowerpetals and sprouts. Generouslyspoon over dressing, seasonto taste and serve.NoteCalendula and marigolds are available from selectnurseries. Ensure they areunsprayed. Sunflower sproutsand chickpea miso are availablefrom select health-food stores.If chickpea miso is unavailable,substitute white (shiro) miso.grind with a mortar and pestle,then combine with remainingingredients and ½ tsp salt.5Preheat a charcoal barbecueto medium-high and preheat asteamer over high heat. Steameggplant in a steamer basketuntil almost tender (10 minutes).Transfer to barbecue and grill,cut-side down, until tender andlightly charred (4-6 minutes).6To serve, warm remainingsauce over low heat in a small saucepan. Spoon almondpurée over eggplant andtop with dukkah. Pour saucearound, sprinkle with blackgarlic seasoning and topwith sliced black garlic.NoteBlack garlic andhorseradish powder areavailable from The EssentialIngredient (essentialingredient.com.au). White soy sauce (shiroshoyu) is available from selectJapanese supermarkets. Drygarlic skins in a low oven for2-3 hours or leave in a warmplace to dry over a few days.Alternatively, use a dehydrator.➤

BRENT S A V A GE, YELL O WZucchini & eggplantAll props stylist’s own.PREVIOUS PAGESZucchiniLinentablecloth in Chestnutfrom In Bed Store (usedthroughout). All otherprops stylist’s own. Coal-roastedeggplantwith blackgarlic

LOUIS TIKARAM, STANLEYGOURMET TRAVELLER 84Buddhist mapo tofuSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 25 MINS“If you have a Chinese grandmother, you will know this warming, soulful dish,” saysLouis Tikaram. “It’s usually cooked with pork mince, but I’ve substituted zucchini togive it a great texture and flavour. It’s perfect for a snack or as part of a main meal.”3 tsp canola oil15 gm ginger (about 3cm),finely grated with aMicroplane15 gm garlic, finely gratedwith a Microplane1¼ tbsp chilli bean paste(see note)3 tsp gluten-free soysauce or tamari3 tsp mushroom oyster sauce2 tsp cornflour300 gm silken tofu, removedfrom refrigerator 1 hourbefore cooking½ zucchini, finely dicedCoriander, finely juliennedspring onion and finelysliced birdseye chillies, to serve1Heat oil in a small saucepanover low heat. Add gingerand garlic and stir occasionallyuntil golden and starting to stickto the saucepan (8-10 minutes).2Add chilli bean paste andsimmer, scraping pan, untilmixture is aromatic (2-3 minutes).3Add soy and mushroomoyster sauce, stir, then add180ml water, continuing toscrape base of the saucepan to release all the crunchypieces. Increase heat tomedium, then simmer to allowflavours to develop and liquidto reduce slightly (2-3 minutes).4Whisk cornflour and 1 tbspcold water in a bowl untilcombined. Whisk into saucemixture until thickened(1 minute). Add tofu and zucchini,gently stir to break up slightly,then cover and cook untilwarmed through (5-6 minutes).5Serve in a large bowl withcoriander, spring onion and chilli scattered on top.NoteChilli bean paste(doubanjiang) is availablefrom Asian supermarkets.TofuLinen napkinin Pine from InBed Store (usedthroughout). Allother props stylist’sown.ZucchiniAllprops stylist’s own.

LIS A FEA THERB Y ,GT FOOD DIRECT ORStuffed zucchini flowers with basil sauceSERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 10 MINS“The most important thing when cooking vegetables is to choose thosethat are in peak season,” says Lisa Featherby. “Here, we’ve filled zucchiniflowers with a lemony roasted walnut and zucchini mixture and servedthem with a summery basil sauce. This is a great entrée for a dinner party.”12 zucchini flowers (maleor female; see note)1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil1 thinly sliced garlic clove2-3 baby zucchini,thinly slicedVegetable oil, fordeep-fryingGreen and purple basil, to serveWALNUT ANDZUCCHINI FILLING1 zucchini, coarsely grated½ small garlic clove,coarsely choppedJuice of 1 lemon (or to taste)80 gm roasted walnuts,coarsely choppedBASIL SAUCE40 gm each basil andbaby spinach leaves1 tsp salted capers, rinsedand coarsely chopped½ garlic clove,coarsely chopped120 ml mild-flavouredextra-virgin olive oilBATTER50 gm (¼ cup) rice flour55 gm (¼ cup) plain flour1For walnut and zucchinifiling, process zucchini andgarlic in a food processoruntil smooth. Season to tastewith lemon juice and salt,then stir through walnuts.2Gently open zucchini flowersand place a heaped teaspoonof filling in each. Gently twisttops of petals together to close. Refrigerate until required.3For basil sauce, blanchbasil and spinach in boilingwater until bright green(10-20 seconds). Drain, refresh in iced water, then gentlysqueeze out excess liquid.Press in a clean tea towelto remove any moisture, thentransfer to a jug with remainingingredients and blend witha hand-held blender untilsmooth. Season to taste andrefrigerate until required.If desired, strain the saucefor a lighter, cleaner finish.4Heat oil in a saucepan to170°C. For batter, whisk floursin a bowl to combine, then addenough chilled water to forma thin batter and whisk untilsmooth (you want the batterto barely coat the zucchini). Dipprepared flowers into batter,gently shaking off excess, thendeep-fry, in batches, untilgolden and crisp (5 minutes).Drain on paper towel andseason to taste with salt flakes.5To serve, spoon some of thebasil sauce onto plates, top with zucchini flowers and slicedzucchini, then drizzle overa little more sauce. Garnishwith green and purple basil.NoteIf using male flowers,you may also want to addextra thinly sliced baby orsmall zucchini. Make sureto remove stamens fromthe zucchini flowers.➤

GOURMET TRAVELLER 86Carrot schnitzelSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 1 HR // COOK 1 HR 35 MINS (PLUS FERMENTING, BRINING)“Wiener schnitzels were cooked by my Austrian grandmother and mother my entirechildhood, once a week at home,” says Adam Wolfers. “The next-generation twistcomes from my love for vegetables. Since my time at Ételek, I’ve tried turning everyvegetable I could think of into a schnitzel – parsnip, carrot and asparagus to namebut a few. The best vegetables to use are root vegetables because they have naturalsweetness and hold their shape.” Start this recipe 5-7 days ahead to make the zhoug.2 Lebanese cucumbers,halved lengthways andsliced diagonally6 large carrots, halvedlengthways50 ml extra-virgin olive oil3 garlic cloves, crushed3 thyme sprigs150 gm panko crumbs1 tbsp smoked paprika1 tbsp nutritional yeast flakes 75 gm (1/2 cup) plain flour500 ml (2 cups) soy milkCanola oil, forshallow-fryingLemon cheeks and fennelflowers (optional), to serve ZHOUG100 gm long red chillies,coarsely chopped2½ tbsp vegetable oil1¼ tbsp brown rice vinegar 20 gm glucose1 small garlic clove1 large (or 2 small) coriander roots, washed¼ tsp carob molasses(see note)SUNFLOWER HUMMUS110 gm sunflower seeds,lightly roasted½ garlic clove, chopped1¼ tbsp chickpea miso (see note)2½ tsp lemon juice2 tsp sherry vinegar½ tsp ground cumin100 ml vegetable oil 1For zhoug, blend chillies with1 tsp salt in a small blender toa coarse paste. Transfer to asmall sterilised jar (see note),cover and leave at roomtemperature until fermented(5-7 days). Seal and refrigerateuntil needed. Blend 1¼ tbspfermented chilli (reserveremainder for another use) withoil, half the vinegar, glucose,garlic, coriander root, ¼ tspsalt and 50ml water in ablender until smooth. Transferto a small saucepan and gentlysimmer over very low heatuntil fragrant and the oil splits(20-25 minutes). Stir throughmolasses and remaining vinegar,then strain through a fine sieve.2Combine 2 tsp fine salt with500ml water in a containerand stir until dissolved. Addcucumber, cover and setaside until infused with thebrine (2 hours).3Preheat oven to 180°C andline a large roasting pan withaluminium foil. Combine carrots,olive oil, garlic and thyme onprepared baking tray, seasonto taste, then fold over the foilto enclose, rolling edges toseal. Roast until carrots aretender when tested with askewer (1-1¼ hours). Removefrom foil and set aside to cool.4For sunflower hummus,blend sunflower seeds in ablender until fine but not toooily. Add garlic, chickpea miso,lemon juice, sherry vinegar,cumin, oil, 110ml water and¼ tsp salt flakes. Blend on high speed, scraping down sideswhen needed, until smooth(2-3 minutes). Pass througha fine strainer if you prefera very smooth finish.5Combine panko, paprika,yeast flakes and ½ tsp salton a shallow tray. Place flourand milk in 2 separate trays.Coat carrots in flour, then milk,shaking off excess, then lightlypress carrots into crumbs,ensuring they’re completelycoated. Set aside on a tray.6Add 1cm oil to a frying panand heat to 180°C. Fry carrots,in batches, turning once, untilgolden brown (1-2 minuteseach side; be careful, hot oilmay spit). Drain on papertowel and season to tastewith a pinch of salt.7Serve carrots with saltedcucumber, sunflower hummus, lemon cheeks and fennelflowers, and drizzle withzhoug to taste.NoteChickpea miso andcarob molasses are availablefrom health-food stores. Tosterilise jars and lids, runthrough the hot-rinse cyclein a dishwasher, or washin hot, soapy water, rinsewell, then place on a trayin a cold oven and heatat 120°C for 30 minutes.➤

ADAM WOLFERS, GERARD’S BISTROSchnitzelLinennapkin in Stonefrom In Bed Store.All other propsstylist’s own.

GUY JEFFREY S, MILLBROOKGOURMET TRAVELLER 88Beans braised in tomato and garlic with sage oilSERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 35 MINS“If you’re lucky enough to have your own garden to pick and cook from, that’s great,” says GuyJeffreys. “If not, the next best thing is to use produce from your local farmers’ market.” He usesa mixture of French beans, butter (yellow) beans, Italian (Roman) beans, snake beans and otherheirloom varieties such as poverello bianco and rattlesnake beans, if available. Choose what’s best.1 kg beans of variousvarieties, washedand trimmed2 fresh bay leaves5 large tomatoes, coredand cut in quarters3 garlic cloves, smashed100 ml olive oilCrusty bread, to serveSAGE OIL1 small garlic clove3 sprigs sage, leaves pickedJuice of 1 lemon50 ml olive oil1Bring beans, bay leaves and150ml water to the boil in acasserole over high heat. Stir,then reduce heat to very lowand cover three-quarters ofpan with a lid. Simmer, stirringoccasionally, until beans aresoft but still holding their shape(30 minutes). Add tomatoes andgarlic and squash on the insideof casserole with a spoon, stirthrough to thicken sauce andseason to taste. If liquid hasn’treduced, remove beans with a slotted spoon and boil overhigh heat until thick (5 minutes), then return beans to pan(discard bay leaves).2Meanwhile, for sage oil,pound garlic with a mortarand pestle. Add sage leaves,salt and pepper and poundto a paste. Add lemon juice,then oil, and stir to combine.Season to taste.3Drizzle beans with sage oiland serve with crusty bread.

T AYLOR CULLEN, PAPERBARKFigs with fig caramel, fig-leaf oil, pomegranate and radishesSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS COOLING)“This is one of those dishes you won’t even think aboutbeing vegan – it simply doesn’t need anything else,”says Taylor Cullen. “This beautiful summer dish is acidic,sweet, crunchy and packs a punch. Using citrus herbs, you get that kick without the fruit, which I like.”100 gm dark sugar, such asmuscovado or grated gulamelaka palm sugar200 gm dried figs, cut into1cm pieces100 ml balsamic vinegar6 figs, quartered1 pomegranate, cut intohalf, arils removed1-2 radishes (see note), thinlysliced on a mandoline(about 24 slices)Oxalis (wood sorrel;see note) or othercitrus-flavoured herbs FIG-LEAF OIL1 fresh fig leaf100 ml extra-virgin olive oilMACADAMIA CREAM70 gm (½ cup) macadamias1For fig-leaf oil, blanch figleaf in boiling salted water(20 seconds). Refresh in icedwater, drain and dry on papertowel. Blend with oil in a blenderuntil smooth (2 minutes). Strainthrough cheesecloth. Refrigeratein a sealed jar until needed.2Place sugar in a saucepanover high heat and shake panoccasionally until sugar meltsand starts to smell slightly burnt(2-3 minutes). Add dried figsand vinegar and deglaze pan,scraping base (be careful ascaramel may spit), then stiruntil slightly thickened (1-2minutes). Set aside to cool.3For macadamia cream,blend macadamias and 125mlwater until thick and smooth.Cover and chill until required.4Spoon macadamia creamonto platter and top with figsand fig caramel. Drizzle overfig-leaf oil, garnish with herbsand season to taste.NoteChoose from varietiesincluding watermelon, Frenchbreakfast or red radish. Oxalis can be ordered at select greengrocers. ●

T OW ARD SZE R OExecutivechefEMMA MCCASKILLofAdelaide’sSparkkeattheWhitmoreisoneofmanymakingchangestocreateamoresustainablekitchen. Here, she shares a holistic menu aimed at minimising waste.RecipesEMMA MCCASKILLWordsJORDAN KRETCHMERPhotographyMARNIE HAWSONStylingLISA FEATHERBYDrink suggestionsROSE KENTISH

Sparkke at the Whitmore sous chef Leonardo Loureiro (from left), winemaker and Sparkke co-founder Rose Kentish, and executive chef Emma McCaskill.p95Barbecued chicken hearts with orange and plum salad

MenuFennel frond andchickpea frittersBarbecued chicken heartswith orange and plum saladPale ale or black IPAChickpea dhal with papadumsGinger beerPoached Nomad chickenwith fennel salad andspent citrus dressingGerwürtztraminer or blendedshiraz tempranillo mourvèdreBaby rainbow carrots withcoriander and carrot-top pesto Red aleBaby cucumbers with wheydressing and dried chilliMango semifreddo withcandied mango skinsWhitmore GimletAlong with producing our favourite meals,kitchens are also responsible for creatinga substantial amount of waste. But with alittle thought and preparation this can bereduced significantly by establishing closed-loop cooking habits. Is it simple? Notexactly – but it is achievable. One chef who is helping setnew standards is Emma McCaskill of Adelaide’s Sparkke atthe Whitmore, a restaurant that looks at food holisticallyand is constantly refining its systems to minimise waste. Weasked McCaskill to create a menu that harnesses the potentialof each and every ingredient – from root to peel, nose totail – to piece together a cooking puzzle that’s both deliciousand almost entirely waste-free.“I wanted to include dishes that are staples on our menu inorder to stay true to our food ethos at Sparkke,” says McCaskill.The restaurant’s ethos is to showcase the incredible producersthey work with while minimising their own carbon footprint.“My mindset has developed from a focus on the best produceand agricultural practices, to a more sustainable and resourceful approach to everything we do in our kitchen,” she says.Sparkke at the Whitmore, 317 Morphett St, Adelaide, SA, (08) 7123 0808, sparkke.com/the-whitmore

2 bunches baby heirloomcarrots (500gm), topsreserved, washed and dried100 ml extra-virgin olive oilCARROT-TOP PESTO100 gm (2/3 cup) unsaltedcashew nuts, roasted1 bunch coriander includingroots, washed1 small garlic clove, crushedJuice of 1 lemonPinch of ground cuminPinch of ground coriander100 ml extra-virgin olive oilBaby rainbow carrots withcoriander and carrot-top pestoSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 10 MINS“This is a simple but delicious dish of roasted baby heirloomcarrots that highlights the whole plant,” says Emma McCaskill.1Preheat oven to 250°C.Peel carrots using the edge ofa teaspoon (I find peelers takeaway too much flesh). Placecarrots on a baking tray, drizzlewith oil and season to taste.Roast until lightly golden butal dente (6-8 minutes).2Meanwhile, for carrot-toppesto, place carrot tops,cashews, coriander, garlic,lemon juice and spices in a foodprocessor and blend until finelychopped. With motor running,add oil in a steady stream untilcombined. Season to taste.3Serve carrots with pesto.Beer suggestion Red ale.2 cups (firmly packed) fennelfronds, finely chopped,plus extra to serve, bulbreserved for masterstock(see recipe p94)250 gm stale bread, blitzed into breadcrumbs100 gm Australian feta,crumbled3 large eggs, beaten1 cup (firmly packed) flat-leafparsley, roughly chopped35 gm (¼ cup) chickpea flour2 long red chillies, finelychopped, tips reservedfor dried chilli flakes (see recipe p97)1 garlic clove,finely chopped300 ml vegetable oilLABNE500 gm plain Greek yoghurt¼ cup finely chopped mint¼ tsp ground cumin1For labne, spoon yoghurtinto a sieve lined with muslin,cheesecloth or a rinsed Chuxcloth and place over a bowl. Fennel frond and chickpea frittersSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS STRAINING)“These fritters also work well with blanched and finely choppedspinach added, if you have any you need to use up,” saysMcCaskill. Start this recipe one day ahead to strain the yoghurt.Gather sides and knot cornerstogether. Suspend muslinby feeding a wooden spoonthrough gaps in muslin justbelow the knot and hang overa deep bowl or saucepan.Refrigerate for at least 12 hours.Transfer labne to a bowl, addmint and cumin, season to taste,stir to combine. Reserve wheyfor cucumber recipe (see p97).2For fritters, combine fronds,breadcrumbs, feta, eggs,parsley, chickpea flour, chilli andgarlic in a bowl. Season to taste.3Heat oil and 300ml spentcitrus oil (see recipe p94) to180C in a saucepan overmedium heat. Spoon roundedtablespoons of mixture intohot oil (be careful, hot oil mayspit) and deep-fry in batches,turning fritters once, untilgolden (3-5 minutes). Drainon paper towel.4Top fritters with fronds,season to taste with salt flakes and serve with labne.Beer suggestion Pale ale.➤ALL PROPS STYLIST’S OWN. GOURMET TRAVELLER93

GOURMET TRAVELLER 94Poached Nomad chicken with fennel salad and spent citrus dressingSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 2 HRS 30 MINS (PLUS INFUSING, COOLING)“Tom Bradman and Verity Slee established Nomad Farms,” saysMcCaskill. “They believe healthy, diverse and abundant ecologyis the very driver of highly productive farms. Any excess chickencan be shredded into sandwiches for lunch the next day.” Start this recipe one day ahead to infuse the citrus oil.1.6 kg chicken2 spring onions, thinlysliced diagonally2 cups (loosely packed)coriander, torn1 large fennel bulb, halved,core removed, thinly slicedon a mandoline, stalksand core reserved formasterstock, and fronds reserved for fritters(see recipe p93)½ cup (loosely packed) mint,coarsely torn, rootsreserved for masterstock¼ cup (loosely packed)amaranth (see note),coarsely torn, rootsreserved for masterstock¼ cup (loosely packed)sawtooth coriander(see note), coarsely torn, roots reserved formasterstock1 long red chilli, thinly sliced 2 small red chillies,thinly slicedSPENT CITRUS OIL DRESSING600 gm spent citrus, includingjuiced lemons/oranges/limes, coarsely chopped600 ml extra-virgin olive oil1½ tbsp honey vinegar(see note)¼ tsp Dijon mustardMASTERSTOCK1.5 litres (6 cups) chicken stock250 ml (1 cup) ginger beer50 gm ginger trimmings orthinly sliced ginger2 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns1 spring onion, trimmed,thinly slicedReserved roots, stalksand core from mintamaranth, corianderand fennel (from salad), coarsely chopped1For spent citrus oil dressing,combine citrus and oil in asaucepan over a very low heat(60°C maximum) and leave toinfuse (1 hour). Cover with a lid and rest at room temperature(overnight). Repeat heatingand cooling, but further restingisn’t required. Strain, then whisk 60ml citrus oil with honeyvinegar and mustard, andseason to taste. Spent citrusoil will keep in a coveredcontainer in a dark pantry forup to 2 weeks, and can also beused for fritters and chickenhearts (see recipes p93, p95).2For masterstock, combineingredients in a large saucepan,and bring to the boil over highheat. Reduce to low-mediumheat, add chicken, cover andsimmer gently until chicken iscooked through and reachesan internal temperature of 65°C(25-30 minutes). Remove fromheat and allow stock to coolcompletely (2-3 hours).3For salad, combine remainingingredients in a bowl. Add spentcitrus oil to taste, season to tastewith salt and toss to combine.4Remove chicken from stock,strain stock, cool, cover andfreeze for another use (seenote) or use in dhal (see recipep96). Cut chicken into quarters.Heat 60ml spent citrus oil in alarge frying pan over mediumheat, add chicken, skin-sidedown, and cook until golden(5 minutes). Serve with salad.NoteAmaranth and sawtoothcoriander are available fromAsian supermarkets. Honeyvinegar is available from selectdelicatessens. If unavailable,whisk 1 tsp honey with 11/2 tbspapple cider vinegar. Each timethe masterstock is used, boilto sterilise, then re-seasonwith more herbs and spices.Wine suggestionsFor a white:a gerwürtztraminer from theAdelaide Hills such as the 2019Yetti & The Kokonut. For a red:a blended shiraz tempranillomourvèdre from McClaren Vale,such as the 2016 Rose Kentish.Hold onto vegetable peels andtrimmings. Stems, garlic skin andveggie tops can all be stored in thefreezer and re-used or re-purposedin other recipes, such as to bolster avegetable stock or add flavour to a pangravy. They can also be dehydratedand finely ground to be sprinkledover dishes for extra flavour.L E F T O V E RV E G G IES C R A P S

2 tbsp fine sea salt1 tsp caster sugar500 gm chicken hearts,outside arteries trimmedDRESSING25 gm ginger (about 5cm),peeled and finely diced1 clove garlic, finely chopped80 ml (1/3 cup) spent citrus oil,reserved from poachedchicken (see recipe opposite)1 tbsp pomegranate molasses½ tsp honeyPinch of dried chilli powderORANGE AND PLUM SALAD1 orange, peeled andsegmented1 long red chilli, finely sliced1 radicchio, washed, drained and coarsely chopped1 plum, thinly sliced1To brine hearts, combine1 litre cold water, salt and sugar,and whisk until dissolved. Addchicken hearts, cover and chill for 3 hours. Soak bamboo Barbecued chicken heartswith orange and plum saladSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS BRINING, SOAKING)“The offal remaining from whole chicken carcasses is oftenneglected,” says McCaskill. “Here, the hearts are barbecuedover plum kernels and olive pip coals. Use the citrus oil reserved from the Nomad chicken (see recipe opposite).”Pictured p91.skewers in water for at least30 minutes. Drain hearts, thenthread onto skewers, leavingabout 1 cm between each heart.(Alternatively, use metalskewers.) Set aside on a plate.2For dressing, whisk ginger,garlic, citrus oil, pomegranatemolasses, honey and chillipowder in a bowl, then placehalf the dressing in a separatebowl and set aside.3Heat a barbecue to highor a char-grill pan over highheat until very hot. Bastechicken hearts with half thedressing and sprinkle with alittle salt. Grill skewers, bastingand turning occasionally, until caramelised and cookedthrough (4-6 minutes).4For salad, combineingredients in a bowl. Addreserved dressing, toss tocombine and season to taste.5Serve skewers with salad.Beer suggestion A black IPA.➤95 GOURMET TRAVELLER

Chickpea dhal with papadumsSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 1 HR 20 MINS (PLUS SOAKING)“The chickpeas we use are single-origin, traceable, non-GMand grown by the Schilling family in the Yorke Peninsula,South Australia,” says McCaskill. “They release valuablenitrogen into the soil for future crops. The red lentils comefrom the same range in Wimmera, Victoria. The dhal pairswell with the carrot-top pesto (see recipe p93).” Start this recipe one day ahead to soak the chickpeas.50 gm unsalted butter1 large onion, finely diced2 garlic cloves, crushed5 gm ginger (about 1cm),peeled and finely diced1 long red chilli, thinlysliced into rounds10 fresh curry leaves, plusextra fried leaves to serve1 tbsp ground turmeric1 tsp ground cumin1 tsp ground coriander200 gm chickpeas, soakedin cold water overnight200 gm red lentils, rinseduntil water runs clear1.2 litres masterstock(see recipe p94; see note)Steamed basmati rice(optional), to servePAPADUMS125 gm black gram flour (see note)¼ tsp nigella seedsVegetable oil, forrolling and deep-frying1Melt butter in a saucepanover medium heat, then addonion, garlic and ginger, stirringoccasionally, until onion istranslucent (5 minutes). Addchilli, curry leaves and spicesand cook, stirring frequently,until fragrant (4-6 minutes).2Drain chickpeas and addto a saucepan with lentils.Cover with masterstock andbring to the boil, then reduceto a simmer, cover and cook,stirring occasionally, untilchickpeas are tender orthe consistency of porridge(45-50 minutes). If needed,remove lid and simmer fora further 10-15 minutes oruntil desired consistency.3Meanwhile, for papadums,combine flour, nigella seeds,50ml warm water and ¼ tspsalt in the bowl of an electricmixer fitted with a dough hook.Combine by hand until startingto come together, adding 1 tspextra water if needed, then mixon low speed until a smoothdough forms (5-6 minutes).Transfer to a lightly oiledsurface, and turn dough over tocoat the other side with oil. Rollout with a rolling pin until about½cm thick, then feed doughthrough a pasta machine,starting with the widest setting, reducing settings notch bynotch, until the thinnest orsecond thinnest setting anddough is 1mm-2mm thick.Cut into 5cm-10cm squares.4Heat oil to 180°C in a largefrying pan over medium heat.Carefully add papadums anddeep-fry, in batches, turningonce, until starting to turnlight golden (30-40 seconds;be careful, hot oil may spit).Remove using tongs or askimmer, drain on paper toweland season to taste. Repeatwith remaining papadums.Papadums are best served thesame day, but will keep in anairtight container for 2 days.5Season dhal to taste andtop with fried curry leaves.Serve with papadums and rice.NoteUse chicken or vegetablestock if not making masterstock.Black gram flour, also knownas urad or urad flour, is availablefrom select Indian supermarkets. If unavailable, substitutechickpea flour.Drink suggestion Ginger beer.

GOURMET TRAVELLER97Baby cucumbers with whey dressing and dried chilliSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS DRYING)“Here, baby cucumbers are quartered and lightly salted,” saysMcCaskill. “The whey dressing is made with leftovers fromthe labne served with the fritters. Chilli trimmings are driedand blitzed to a fine powder and dusted over the cucumbers.”250 gm baby cucumbers (about8), halved lengthwaysSmall dried chillies, to serveDried chilli flakes (see note), to serveWHEY DRESSING2½ tsp sesame oil2 tsp finely chopped ginger1 small garlic clove, finely chopped¼ tsp caster sugar¼ tsp freshly groundwhite pepper½ tsp ground fenugreek15 gm butter, diced¾ tsp honey100 ml whey reserved fromlabne (see recipe p93) NoteFor dried chilli flakes,preheat oven to 60°C. Finelyslice red chilli tops (reservedfrom fritters; see recipe p93)and spread on an oven tray.Dehydrate until dry but notcrisp (10-12 hours). Grind ina spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle.➤1For dressing, combinesesame oil, ginger and garlicin a small saucepan overmedium heat and stir untilgolden (2-3 minutes). Addsugar, pepper, fenugreek and½ tsp fine salt and simmeruntil fragrant (1-2 minutes).Slowly whisk in butter,honey and whey, and cookuntil combined and slightlythickened (8-10 minutes).Cool, then chill until required. 2Season cucumber totaste and combine withdried chillies. Serve withwhey dressing and dried chilli flakes.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 981/2 strawberry45 ml Great Dames Gin(see note)45 ml pink grapefruit juice1½ tsp lime juice1 tsp syrup from candiedmango skins (see recipeopposite) or 1½ tsp sugar syrup (see note)1/4 cup ice cubes1 fried curry leaf, to garnish(reserved from dhal; see recipe p96)1Muddle strawberry ina cocktail shaker. Addremaining ingredients andshake to combine.2Pour through a fine sieveinto a chilled gimlet glass andgarnish with a fried curry leaf.NoteGreat Dames Gin isavailable from ApplewoodDistillery in the AdelaideHills, South Australia(applewooddistillery.com.au)and select bottle shops. Sugarsyrup is made of equal partssugar and water. Heat mixtureover medium-high heat untilsugar dissolves, then removefrom heat and cool before use. Whitmore GimletMAKES 1 // PREP TIME 5 MINS“We collaborated with ApplewoodDistillery to make our own gin,” saysMcCaskill. “The name, Great DamesGin, celebrates female distillers who have shaped the world of gin.”

2 ripe mangoes8 egg yolks500 gm caster sugarScraped seeds from 1 vanilla beanJuice of 1 lemon300 gm double cream(48% butterfat)150 ml pouring cream,lightly whipped180 gm roasted macadamias,coarsely chopped, plusextra, finely chopped to serve1Wash mangoes well, thenremove mango skins with aY-shaped peeler. Scrape offany remaining pulp left on skin.Cut mango skin into julienne andset aside. Remove flesh from theseed and coarsely chop.2Whisk egg yolks in an electricmixer on medium-high speeduntil pale and fluffy (5-7 minutes).3Meanwhile, place mangoflesh, vanilla and 250gmsugar in a small saucepanover medium-high heat and stiruntil sugar dissolves. Simmerover medium heat until syrupy (4-5 minutes). Cool for 5 minutes.Add to egg yolks with lemonjuice, whisking continuously untilmixture is cold (5-6 minutes).4Combine creams in a bowland whisk until soft peaks form.Fold in mango mixture andmacadamias, then spoon intoan 8cm x 22cm x 30cm loaf tin(7-cup capacity). Smooth topand freeze overnight until firm.5Bring a saucepan of waterto boil over high heat. Addmango skin, bring back to the boil, strain and wash well.Repeat this process.6Place remaining sugarand 250ml water in a saucepan,bring to the boil and stir untildissolved. Add mango skin,simmer over low heat untiltender and translucent(40-50 minutes), then cool.7Turn out semifreddo, sliceinto 3cm-thick slices and servetopped with candied mangoskins and macadamias.Drink suggestion Apple cider●Mango semifreddo with candied mango skinsSERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 50 MINS (PLUS COOLING, FREEZING)“The addition of mango skins adds a wonderful texture,” says McCaskill.I love finding ways to use parts of ingredients that would usually be discarded or forgotten.” Start this recipe one day ahead to freeze the semifreddo.

R e c i p e sL I S A F E A T H E R B YW o r d sJ O R D A N K R E T C H M E RP h o to g r a p h yB E N D E A R N L E YS t y l in gL Y N S E Y F R Y E R Sp107Red emperorcrudo withstone fruit andorange-oregano dressing