UFASHON MAGAZINE- Haute Couture Paris_Spring Summer 2019

GUOPEI Artistatralepiùiconicheeinteressantidellanewwave Oneofthemosticonicandinterestingartistsofthenew dell’AltaModamondiale,GuoPei,concludecomegià waveofhighfashionintheworld,GuoPei,likesome daqualcheanno,laParisFashionweekproponendo yearsago,concludestheParisFashionWeekproposing collezionichesonoautenticiesercizidistileassoluta- collectionsthatareauthenticstyleexercisesabsolutely menteunicinellorogenereperlaverveespressionista uniqueintheirkindfortheexpressionistvervethatcha- chelicaratterizza. racterizesthem.Nothingisletochanceinwhatislite- Nullaèlasciatoacasoinquellocheèletteralmenteun rallyafashion\"show\",ashowoflightsandcolorsthat fashion“show”,unospettacolodiluciecoloricheab- dazzleswithitsunusualbeauty. bagliaconlasuainusitatabellezza. Everythingissurprisinganddifficulttocategorizeina Tuttoèsorprendenteedifficilmentecatalogabileinuno precisestylebecauseGuoPeiisoutofthebox,freefrom stilebenprecisoperchéGuoPeièoutofthebox,libera thecagesoffashions,trendsandallthatinParisisclassi- dallegabbiedimode,tendenzeedituttociòchea ParigivieneclassicatocomeHauteCouture. edashautecouture. Albandoogniclassicismo.Quiunsublimevirtuosi- Everyclassicism isbanned.Hereasublimestylisticvir- smostilisticoelavogliadisorprenderemostrandoal tuosityandthedesiretosurpriseshowingtheworldgar- mondocapidaitagliesilhouetteineditieppurcosìse- mentswithunusualcutsandsilhouettesyetsovisually ducentivisivamentesonounautenticomust,nonchéla seductive,areanauthenticmust,aswellasthestylistic cifrastilisticadiunafashiondesignerchehasaputo codeofafashiondesignerwhohasbeenabletomoder- modernizzareilconcettodialtamodacineseportan- nizetheconceptofChineseHighFashionbringingitto dolaatoccareverticiparossisticichesonopuraantr touchparoxysm verticesthatarepureanthropologyof pologiadelcostume.Èdaleichel'altamodacinese fashion. dovràpartireungiornoperraccontarelasuabella ItisfromherthatChinesehighfashionwillhavetostart favola,comelaFranciafaconCocoChanel. onedaytotellthebeautifulstory,asFrancedoeswith GuoPeinellasuanuovacollezioneHauteCouture CocoChanel. spring/summer2019èassolutamentepirotecnica:in GuoPeiinhernewHauteCouturespring/summer2019 passerellaslanocreazionidalleformesperimentalie collectionisabsolutelypyrotechnics:onthecatwalkare daldesignaudaceeavantgardecheperònondisdegna creationswith experimentalshapesand bold and direinterpretareigrandiclassiciconverveebrio,esal- avant-gardedesignthatdoesnotdisdaintoreinterpret tandoliconstoffepregiatissimeincuinuancepreziose thegreatclassicswithverveandvivacity,exaltingthem degradanoconfascinosublimel’unanell’altra. with nefabricsinwhichpreciousnuancesdegradewith IltemadelDragone,simbolodellaCina,facapolino sublimecharmineachother. negliabitipiùsontuosisiacomedecorazionechecome ethemeoftheDragon,symbolofChina,peepsinthe motivoarilievosustoffedasogno. mostsumptuousclothesbothasdecorationandasa Longdresseabitidacocktailsonounautenticospetta- reliefmotifondreamfabrics. colodiforme,tagliecoloribrillanti,cosìcomegliac- Longdressesandcocktaildressesareanauthenticshow cessori,einparticolarelescarpe,autentichesculture ofshapes,cutsandbrightcolors,aswellasaccessories, contacchisontuosamenteintagliati andinparticular,shoes,authenticsculptureswithsump- tuouslycarvedheels. CLICKHEREFORTHEFASHIONSHOW 105











IRISVANHERPEN QuestacollezionediIrisvanHerpenHauteCoutureè  isIrisvanHerpenHauteCouturecollectionwasinspi- ispirataaiprimiesempidicartograacelesteeallesue redbyearlyexamplesofcelestialcartographyanditsre- rappresentazionidichimeremitologicheeastrologi- presentationsofmythologicalandastrologicalchimera, che,VanHerpenèstatoparticolarmenteaffascinata VanHerpenwasparticularlytakenwith\"Harmonica dall’\"HarmonicaMacrocosmica\",unatlantestellaredel Macrocosmica\",astaratlasbytheGerman-Dutchcarto- cartografotedesco-olandeseAndreasCellarius,pub- grapherAndreasCellarius,publishedin1600.Withthe blicatonel1600.Coniprogressidell'ingegneriadel advancesinDNAengineeringandthe rstsuccessful DNAeleprimecreazionidisuccessodiibridiumani/ creationsofhuman/animalhybridscalled'Cybrids',the animalichiamati\"Cybrids\",isognimitologicidell'u- mythologicaldreamsofHumankindsincethedawnof manità ndaglialboridellaciviltàsistannosemprepiù civilizationareshiingtothecanvasofscience.While spostandodallamitologiaallascienza.Mentreleimpli- thescienticandethicalimplicationsof'Cybrids'arestill cazioniscienticheedetichedi\"Cybrids\"nonsono unclear. ancorachiare,questacollezionehautecouturespring/-  iscollectionexpressesthefactthatthisrealityisupon summer2019esprimequantoquestarealtàsiagiàtra us.For'ShiSouls'shelookedattheevolutionofthe dinoi.Perquestacollezioneintitolata“ShiSoul”la humanshape,itsidealizationthroughtimeandthehy- stilistahaosservatol'evoluzionedellaformaumana,la bridizationoffemaleformswithinmythology.Especially suaidealizzazioneneltempoel'ibridazionedelleforme theimaginationandthe uiditywithinidentitychange femminiliall'interno dellamitologia.Specialmente inJapanesemythologygavehertheinspirationtoexplo- l'immaginazioneela uiditàdelcambiamentodiiden- rethedeepermeaningofidentityandhowimmaterial titànellamitologiagiapponeselehannodatol'ispira- andmutableitcanbecomewithinthecurrentcoalescen- zioneperesplorareilsignicatopiùprofondodell'i- ceofourdigitalbodies.ecollectionconsistsofeighte- dentitàequantoimmaterialeemutevolepossadiven- enlookswithfocusondissectedandvoluminouslaye- tareall'internodell'attualecoalescenzadeinostricorpi ring,andawarm colorpaletteofochre,tyrianpurple, digitali.Intutto18outtmirabolanti,fruttodiuna andindigopigments. straordinariaconcentrazionesullastraticazionedei e'Harmonic'silhouettesarevoluminousspheroid volumiespressaconunacaldatavolozzadicoloridi dressesthatunfoldvibrantpatternsthroughtranslucent pigmenticolorocra,porporaeindaco.Davveronote- gradient-dyedorganzathatisplissedbyhand.e'Sym- voliivoluminosiabitisfericichesiapronoinvivaci biotic'volumesaremadefrom gradient-dyedsilksthat fantasieattraversoun'organzatraslucidaplissettataa aremulti-layeredintosculpturalshapesbya ne3Dla- mano,mentrealtricapisonorealizzatiinsetesfumate sercutframeofPETGtocreatehybridbirdshapesindi- multistratoinformescultoreepercreareformeibride mensionalcolorgradationsthathoverinsymbiosiswith diuccellichesimuovonoinsimbiosiconilcorpocome thebodylikemythologicalcreatures. creaturemitologiche. CLICKHEREFORTHEFASHIONSHOW 111







JEAN-PAULGAULTIER QUnacollezionescanzonata,riccadirimandiallapro- Aneasygoingcollection,fullofreferencestohisspar- priasfavillantecarrieraeaitemialuipiùcari,dalmari- klingcareerandtothetopicsmostdeartohim,fromthe nierealfetish,dalgrandemondodelcircoaquello seafarertothefetish,fromthegreatworldofthecircusto delladanza. thatofdance.ecreativeuniverseofJean-PaulGaultier L’universocreativodiJean-PaulGaultierèriccodiim- isfullofdreamlikeimages,powerfulandextraordinary,a maginioniriche,possentiestralunate,unpo’comelui, bitlikehim,withthatair,asanimpertinentartist,who conquellaariaunpo’così,daartistaimpertinente,che neverseemstoage.Inthebodyandinthespirit. nonsembramaiinvecchiare. Yesterdayliketodayeverythingseemssoequal,nothing Nelcorpoenellospirito.Iericomeoggituttosembra seemstohavechangedanditisfranklyareassuringsen- cosìuguale,nullasembraesserecambiatoedèfranca- sation. menteunasensazionetranquillizzante.Lasuanuova HisnewHauteCouturespring/summer2019collection collezioneHauteCouturespring/summer2019espri- expressestheessenceofanartistwhoinhislifehas metuttal’essenzadiunartistachenellasuavitaha alwaysdonethingshisway,identifyingandfollowinga semprefattoamodosuo,individuandoepercorrendo paththatisverycharacteristicofhimandthatdistingui- unastradatuttasuacheoggibenlocaratterizzaelodi sheshim. stingue. Surroundedasalwaysbyhisbelovedmuses,duringthe Circondatocomesempredallesueadoratemuse,ecco catwalkoneofthem,thedivineDitaVonTeese,queenof chedurantelaslataunadiloro,ladivinaDitaVon burlesquewithporcelainskin,enterswrappedinadress Teese,reginadelburlesquedallapellediporcellana, withasublimedesign,withatulleskirtdubbedincham- entraavvoltainunabitodaldesignsublime,congonna pagnesilkandabodicefrom whosenecklinetwowings ditulledoppiatoinsetachampagneeuncorpettodalla hover,anidealstylisticcontinuationthatmakeshistriu- cuiscollaturasilibrandodueali,un’idealeprosegui- mphalperformanceevenmoresensualandimpressive. mentostilisticocherendeancorapiùsensualeed’effe- Aerherariotofbrightandlivelycolorsthatenhance ttolasuatrionfaleesibizione. thelinesofliterallyfabulouskimonos,shell-shaped Dopodileiuntripudiodicoloriaccesiebrillantiche skirts,lightand uctuatingdressesthatdrawanewidea esaltano lelineedikimoniletteralmentefavolosi, offemininitywithwomenassubjectandneveragainjust gonneaconchiglia,vestitileggerie uttuantichedise- theobjectofseduction. gnanoun’ideanuovadifemminilitàconledonnesog- erulesofthegame,youknow,havechangedanditis gettoemaipiùsolooggettodiseduzione. Jean-PaulGaultier,feministofthe rsthour,todealthe Leregoledelgioco,sisa,sonocambiateedèJean-Paul cards. Gaultierfemministadellaprimaora,adarelecarte. eenfantterribleofFrenchfashiondoesnotcheat, L’enfantterribledellamodafrancesenonbara,anziri- ratherraiseswith hisQueen oftheSeawho has lanciaconlasuaReginadelMarechehasullespalle shark-likejawsonhershoulders.einvitationtomenis faucidasqualo.L’invitoagliuominièchiaro:guardate- clear:watchyourback. vilespalle.Manonsitrattadiun#metooinsalsafran- However,itisnotaFrench-style#metoo,Jean-PaulGau- cese,Jean-PaulGaultierèsemprestatoinprimalinea ltierhasalwaysbeenintheforefrontoftheliberationof nellaliberazionedelladonnaaccompagnandosinelle thewoman,accompanyingherselfinherstruggleslike suelottepassionariecomeMadonnaefacendodeisuoi Madonnaandmakingherclothesauthentic ghtposters. vestitidegliautenticimanifestidilotta.Alternativo,di- Alternative,disruptive,outofeveryscheme,irreverent: rompente,fuoridaognischema,irriverente:Jean-Paul Jean-PaulGaultierisalwaysGualtierandthesetimes,he GaultierèsempreGualtiereinquestitempièunadelle isoneofthefewcertaintiesthatremains. pochecertezzechecirimane CLICKHEREFORTHEFASHIONSHOW 115



















JULIENFOURNIÉ gmhdccbCscJndsQBssuticohooieoeaeiooiuoeilslmmlellnntiuonrlloicieeeaananttioeeegtnztelu,derffcGnseouzumraiaipFeraJaonenrpnpueteqpopanactotaceGluauodniefhaiilcrvmd.aeerardiartehansdneolallecAmlmetaidlaieauha.dléturleFeoreesAu,oStescrtuonructpoeEatvihletudaotettpossviebetttrrlitrtiiguebilalnacesoimauonnltensniqotiizt:neetléaodrafuzinilicr’oioenenqasoeiavvernszan,oluagsseacitalzrdisllssae'ltodvàaaEioapaoetHtssietiffirlo:auvretirccualainiebneloaaaemm,ut’parairdo,rsttoleonilmatneeetipistraergràonuaeteeoCmtcoirncnsPaducmrde.aqoosebeaointlaesouunnotia,eotagqlietttditpipsiguiuiesctfaunsoaeinàrtraaiùnnaroniedmrolpvnsaceraisegappociiooleadlnrrndoiletsHiaùianbeodaucrtagtptdeooacorcnuriaupdlucanmrahitiotlusrtearetttoaainoaaaaeeer----,., jbrlgihmtaJcVplcmatttbSWsuiesuurhheurasahreaokaciGoeseaerleiosrmasocercecistoterailrpiuetrkiuwur.omaedentestaoarnEetseiwnn,hnoeJebiewyin.aufpodsulnsemrFcrJbiorlssiifhu.olHtylhietointemitfoiithen,heflhlneteaecuyogeifotayamggaewnnaethrf.tdsttocltnlhuntndhdiheiiCytrmfehtlntnFesoiroaoeyatdhaFséeowaoggnnehuisseoms,iotnlulurttasieshbaciamaauasdaarnirlvoaarslonbtllscmrneddnweetnedstys:stntwitrreirtouhdeoueiewgoaèheiteynbttneeelséaunnvsosokiauoounkwedlnesersdefnnnabrflttcttnrr.oygyieetlteyryhewcGvilseoseesueHnl-edteineeiipsmswtrcfdiaffldosstcqedoemeoaoahotsieuoPsn:ucrnuhtetlfnffttreetseahhuoilosodreiatadmpnc.isrn?totlartveeoSssifehsoetTeiusareuasaHvu?spronodeiwotgassrureibbaiphluasAhvanyiacryifffensoalcuean,ritoiydentdaetahorstltbadiadrltireltlfoHenpnaench,areiaftntldotaefCwcirtoalhtrdpsgrdluoreaeieHhielycooeovuthlsmtobansmisiosouaismrtbypsmgoee?gieusrsltegeaFeyxfcontiuiuNaoitmuccnnusapebcHseunerofa,itossemledseeedsbadfyouoh.Coerdncuapleptarsceeictauleocnhruooreiebhfmmhonteeekuooooercndliylsindddeeeerrss-----ttf,.,, sdvgtsmdPslvrBFtsGtCasasmalgrcFcsdpoaurreetioeeoooorbloealoueelaeaamieoanlioo,ormmtrnrffnrnnilsrlù’uds?lssrievteuitcpniriiqttoqrticcsnoiriadcatbbgaiilaexareoduooNanauacala.sazsedirrrneenetopretaiaarieesisaadDnusede.femg.ooéodmasibmoiplcrbnrtrsidtldUilitrneeiaicdrilouliadoàoacinniletHromealgdiqrtoinninist,osiigiluneegncsnauietcclsoatrnnacipuolftaut/adtereduhrc!ccaurlhrlradtuseernpcratamiehhhiloioraeEHcu.oe.rhtelcicotoaroreli.elonhmcCsesmlsstmaeoaltalalaarluhueaauvEmteliaomausoc.ldeièeammue,dsoetévValardotmFzntai?osiniddnioritmeavoanei,sbaaic,orucer’oioProdecnaecaarsoCrvguaahudaauliopanbriui,tliiqtsemmlilceriolnouse2sceisidpiieeiucuccnsttmtcomszg.ìcuu0ctueoiietrhihireasloaiiz.eacg1NbetnaanmeèaesaufisemmaumsoneNr9sa…soadttrotostmtèacrleopsoicnetiseedieiopoianelsnoàpino.s.seunaneapirclncqucmcoiesesrsleilnEicpnhttoopmJcluompnaetducrlteiuoesdoenpaarolcec!almhiaictilzaeislrtae,acrublnnomnailLoedsibiidaec.tieutluaplteilto’taavdeuteehtiautnlepeumtaniaccasosVnaseesobtegéntdrlrhrcooasgtnmu!cltttelonsiilotauiatuoresingailiFestiarucuseticdasoetrttsnHnieposcdlioiatntoiiseetnmmoniceettddioubapancogiapclroopotcapuridhpiariaueiouceaacscudrtsdcloidnletbinmeaotdiiaoeetmphodliaindi.elairiiatngziveclnveimèaftideJirerIlmeinlhordorvtumeCdtalidvoalecttoaieosceeadraonnzltaialtaensooucinnidoatrersstzilnooitllehuerossddaaaucolsrttsallaasnnnoooaaaaeeee?--------iiiill.. CttrtHepmlhFtelewaeFrheauehhaivvvvlooieiohatcillaemcreeeeeeauuusyeettmisnclyrrnnvisikcrerrskedcoyyosteehnnpn!enssrsttrnnnoclliiSeeehhoeaeffeséèsono'weaeorr.ssweiipttmfennoomtsimwoevoArssilhmugglesenowiaeaiyoseantr.rtndtnkslbyerfehyoigaidhgdbeosoekloaBfo/see,itr,anhuehlffstetffhunhteidnhiuohthaiezt.taeeeestatohefvmeeevdrhitmmtebyateineidthehsmrtnhcstnheerhabeieiiofaseebntigeneer,raeatn.unsaehmliroewgdntesaemgsWt,ctannoanueoh,eskaids2tlahuserofdrelalcb0.ulilhlaybs.ioeaud1tat.nnconditalhrrrntsnt9etoahosed.oeieacnmoovi.xIaasaalatecntfwitlHpsnondauiaahAcoichveusuamdlagHcsseolta!eocnesltuhororme.udthaimtdettodertnaultSeeehtdpheadnbhrelohtne,erkhuleatyeeueeatesChttnwiaenninttghhnstcisrewCoeoctishhneageicnilhpuidtiotetsycgnkatgtheapteeuihodlpudddbpseoscbiftwmopirneioouarrasygffemesooiieiedJumrantnticesua.ndemsthgeonlrprclttmieFnnoevideheoogiloaeonuoeaooredrewiiylnnnerrs-----tttffl.. eaAnnnrdiucrnhigmeodirsowsuaitbshlleiancbeos,lolmleucattediloeynwd!eitlhuxpereccuilotuasccfeasbsroicrsieas.nd CLICKHEREFORTHEFASHIONSHOW 124











RALPH&RUSSO TamaraRalpheMichaelRussosonoledueanimecrea- TamaraRalphandMichaelRussoarethetwocreative tivedelleggendariobrandRalph&Russo,attesissimoa soulsofthelegendarybrandRalph&Russo,highlyanti- ParigiperlasuanuovacollezioneHauteCouture cipatedinParisforitsnewspring/summer2019Haute spring/summer2019. Couturecollection. Attesapiùchemeritataperchésenzatantiarzigogoli, Expectedmorethandeservedbecausewithoutsomuch gratuitibarocchismieinutilivezzichealtrononservo- convolutions,gratuitousbaroqueanduselessfeatures nosenonadistrarreaddettiailavori,buyerestampa thatarenotneededifnottodistractinsiders,buyersand dalfattocheunabitofunzioniomeglioperquelloche pressfromthefactthatasuitworksorbetterforwhatit èenonperquellochesembragrazieaorpellidiogni isandnotforwhatitseemsthankstoallkindsoffrills, tipo,Ralph&Russoportaacasaottimerecensioni,ap- Ralph&Russobringhomegreatreviews,applauseand plausielodiTuttomeritodiun’ideadiAltaModache praiseanideaofHauteCouturethatovertheyears,has negliannièrimastafedeleaasestessa,riuscendo remainedtruetoitself,alwayssucceedingtoenchantthe sempreaincantarelaplateadellapiazzapiùdifficile audienceofthemostdifficultmarketforhautecouture, perl’altamoda,Parigi,grazieacreazionisenzatempo Paris,thankstotimelesscreationsthatareatributetothe chesonounomaggioallapiùaltasartorialitàeartigia- highesttailoringandcrasmanshipofthesector. nalitàdelsettore. Onthecatwalk,dressesdesignedforlargeandverylarge Inpasserellaabitipensatipereventigrandiegrandissi- events. mi. Everydailyconventionisabolished:everythingisdone Abolitaogniconvenzionequotidiana:quisifasul seriously.Redcarpetordeath. serio.O redcarpetomorte.Cosìtramillesfavillii, erefore,amongathousandsparkles,sculpturalvolu- volumiscultorei,effettiseethrough,preziosedecora- mes,see-througheffects,precioushandmadedecora- zionihandmadeeunusosistematicodeitessutipiù tionsandasystematicuseofthe nestfabricsinthe pregiatidelmondoeccochel’AltaModaraccontauna world,hereHighFashiontellsanancientandevernew storiaanticaesemprenuova,fattadipurabellezzaed story,madeofpurebeautyandelegancetoutcourt. eleganzatoutcourt. Betweendraping,ironicandunexpecteddecorations, Tradrappeggi,decorazioniironicheeinaspettate,stra- aermathandthechoiceofadelicatecolorpalettewith scichielasceltadiunapalettecromaticadelicatacon numerouspastelshadesthatenhancethenaturalfemini- numerosetonalitàpastellocheesaltanolanaturale nityandgraceofeverywoman,Ralph&Russoremindus femminilitàegraziadiognidonna,Ralph&Russoci thathighfashionisadream,adream cometruethanks ricordanochel’AltaModaèsogno,unsognodiventato tothevividstrengthoftheAtelier,almostanenchanted realegrazieallavividaforzadell’Atelier,quasiunregno kingdom whereonceuponatimebecomesatrue,real incantatodoveilc’eraunavoltadivieneunafavolavera, fairytale,tobelivedandworn. reale,davivereeindossare. CLICKHEREFORTHEFASHIONSHOW 130



















SCHIAPARELLI Unacollezioneirriverente,caleidoscopicaericcadi Anirreverentandkaleidoscopiccollectionfullofverve vervequellapresentataaParigidaSchiaparelliperce- presentedinParisbySchiaparellitocelebrateallthe lebraretuttoilglamourdell’estatenelnomediunacou- glamorofsummerinthenameofadecidedlydisruptive turedecisamentedirompente.Tracascatedipiume, couture.Amongwaterfallsoffeathers,glitter,printsand glitter,stampeesovrapposizionisiamaterichechedi overlappingofbothmaterialsandcontrastingcolors,the coloriacontrasto,lamaisonpariginanonrinuncia Parisianmaisondoesnotrenouncethesurrealistinspira- all’estrosurrealistachehadasemprecaratterizzatole tionthathasalwayscharacterizeditscreations,starting suecreazioni,apartiredaquelledellasuafondatrice, fromthoseofitsfounder,Elsa,whosostronglyresented Elsa,chetantorisentìdell’inuenzadelgenialeregista theinuenceofthebrilliantdirectorLuisBuñuel,alsoa LuisBuñuel,ancheluiesponentedispiccodelsurreali- leadingexponentofsurrealism. smo.Eccoallorainpasserellaabiticheesortanoagio- Herethenonthecatwalk,dressesthaturgeyoutoplay careconlamodagrazieaunasartorialitàmagistrale withfashionthankstomastertailoringthatallowscrea- chepermettedicreareimpalcaturevirtuosisticheper tingvirtuosicscaffoldingforclothesthatalmostseemto abitichequasisembranovolersdarelaleggedigrav wanttochallengethelawofgravity. tà,inveceeccoliqui,unodietrol’altro,ergersi era- However,heretheyareoneaertheother,proudlystan- mentesublimiquasicomearicordarcituttalapotenza dingsublimealmostasiftoremindusofalltheextraor- straordinariadiunsettoreingradodiutilizzarela dinarypowerofasectorabletousemateriallikemarble stoffacomefossemarmoemateriaplasticaperdare andplastictogivebodyandrealitytothewildestdreams. corpoerealtàaisognipiùsfrenati. CLICKHEREFORTHEFASHIONSHOW 140















STÉPHANEROLLAND StéphaneRolland èsemprestato un unicorno nel StéphaneRollandhasalwaysbeenaunicornintheworld mondodell’AltaModa. ofHighFashion. Piùunicocheraro,dotatodiunavervecreativadifficil- Moreuniquethanrare,equippedwithacreativeverve mentecatalogabilesenonnelsuopercorsoartistico thatisdifficulttocatalogueifnotinhisartisticpaththat chel’haportatoinbrevetempoadiventareunodei hasledhim inashorttimetobecomeoneofthemost nomipiùamatidellaParisFashionWeekdiHaute lovednamesoftheParisFashionWeekHauteCouture Coutureladdoveogniannolanciacapichesipropon- whereeveryyear,helaunchesgarmentsthatproposeto gonodiridiscutereilconcettostessodidesign,propo- re-discusstheconceptitselfofdesign,proposingvaria- nendovariazionisutemachesono gliedellesue tionsonthethemethatarethedaughtersofhisowncrea- stessecreazioni. tions. Ècomeseunsuocapogiàprecedentementepresentato Itisasifoneofhisbosses,previouslypresentedyears anniprimanonsmettessemaididirequellochevuole before,neverstoppedsayingwhathereallywantsto inrealtàesprimereecosìeccolodinuovoprotagonista expressandsohereheisagaintheprotagonistofacol- diunacollezioneincuiriesceastupireperchéèfelice- lectioninwhichhemanagestoamazebecauseheishap- mentenuovo,fresco,innovativo. pilynew,fresh,andinnovative. StéphaneRollandproseguecosìilsuocamminocreati- us,StéphaneRollandcontinueshiscreativejourney, voarmatodiprecisiriferimentistilisticichesidivertea armedwithprecisestylisticreferencesthatheenjoysre- rielaborareallalucedinuovesuggestionieispirazioni. visitinginlightofnewsuggestionsandinspirations.In Inquestiabitidigrandeimpattochepiùchecuciti thesehigh-impactdressesthatmorethansewnseem to sembranointagliatisulcorpodellemodelle,quasifos- becarvedonthebodyofthemodels,almostlikepaper. serodicarta. Itisincrediblehoweverythingshineswithagreatcon- Èincredibilecometuttorisplendadiunagrandearmo- ceptualharmonythatmanagestogetridofanyaccusa- niaconcettualecheriesceasmarcarsidaogniaccusadi tionofrationalisticcoldness,thankstothefull-lightde- freddezzarazionalisticaanchegrazieadecorazionia corationsthatshinewithglamorandfemininity. tuttalucechesplendonodiglamourefemminilità. emuseofStéphaneRollandisnotalgidatall.Sheis LamusadiStéphaneRollandnonèaffattoalgida,è fuocosottolacenere. reundertheashes. Amaprofondamentel’arteescegliediindossarecapi Shelovesartdeeplyandchoosestoweargarmentswitha daimillerimandiculturalicheriesceafarsuoigrazie thousandculturalreferencesthatshemanagestomake allasuabrillantepersonalità. herownthankstoherbrilliantpersonality. CLICKHEREFORTHEFASHIONSHOW 148