NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013 WINESTATE VOL 36 ISSUE 6 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDECHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING PINOT NOIR HAWKES BAY, NZ NORTH EAST VICTORIA LIMESTONE COAST PNINOOIRT 207TASTED RED REVIVAL DRIVES NEW OPTIMISMPRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 November/December 2013 PASSIONATE Vol 36 Issue 6 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) ProseAcBOcUoT NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 up to the US $14.99 GBP £8.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 CHALLENGE HKD $120 INR 1000 RUB 700 CHF 15.00 BGN 25.00 ZAR 150 THE RESURGENCE IN RIESLING Champagne & Sparkling 207 TASTED plus New Releases Top 40 Best Wine Buys Under $20 North East Victoria Hunter Valley Limestone Coast Hawkes Bay (NZ)
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14 –16 Explore hundreds of winesFEBRUARY from 14 iconic South Australian2014 wine regions at the multi-awardADELAIDE winning CellarDoor WineCONVENTION Festival Adelaide in the heartCENTRE of the city. Enjoy complimentary wine and food tastings, Master Classes, celebrity chefs and more! Tickets on sale from November 2013. Visit cellardoorfestival.com for full program details.
NO.258 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013 “Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] .”Managing Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] To maintain status quo, insertSub-editor Michael Bates expected wine pun above, feelAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] comfortable and turn page.Art Director Renate Gerard E-mail: [email protected] Alternatively, to:Marketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Coordinator Cara Cassetta E-mail: [email protected] • Have your business evaluatedPrinting DAI Rubicon through fresh eyesWinestate Web Site E-mail: [email protected] • Create growth opportunities;CONTRIBUTORS • Streamline your structures; orNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley • Boost profitability and reduceSouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel HopkinsVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin exposure to risk...Western Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod Properjohn Contact us at Donaldson Walsh.Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel With 17 years full-serviceNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MW commercial law experience, weNational Travel Winsor Dobbin can help you do so much more.USA Gerald D. Boyd To confidentially discuss yourEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW needs, call (08) 8410 2555.ASIA Denis Gaston Kings ChambersADVERTISING SALES 320 King William StreetAustralia, New Zealand & International Adelaide SA 5000Peter Jackson, Winestate Publications [email protected]: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] www.donaldsonwalsh.com.auMike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] South WalesAngelica Naranjo - Pearman MediaPhone: (02) 02 9929 3966 E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaKym Burke - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] & Eastern EuropeFabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandGordon and Gotch New ZealandInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2013 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au
contentsNOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013FEATURES R E G U L A R S28 RED REVIVAL DRIVES 10 BriefsNEW OPTIMISM 19 Cooper’s Creed with Michael CooperThere’s a growing whiff of optimism 20 European Report with Sally Eastonin the air around New Zealand’sleading wine region of Hawke’s Bay, 22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartleywrites Michael Cooper. A great 2013 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth Kingvintage and an intensifying demand 26 Wine History with Valmai Hankelfor Hawke’s Bay merlot and cabernetsauvignon-based reds in the Chinese 48 Grapevinemarket has those involved in the wine 30 54 Wine Wordsbusiness grinning. 55 Bookworms30 BACK FROM THE BRINK 58 What’s it Worth? 60 Wine Investment & CollectingAfter living in the shadow of the 38 UP TO THE CHALLENGEYarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula The man behind riesling’s Australianwine regions, Michael Hince writes resurgence, Ken Helm, has challenged 131 Subscription formVictoria’s Nagambie Lakes region, the next generation of winemakers and 146 Aftertasteincluding the Goulburn Valley and marketers to get the best from our greatStrathbogie Ranges, is on the way vintages, writes Nigel Hopkins. At thisback. Lead by its three iconic wineries year’s Canberra International Riesling- Mitchelton, Tahbilk and Fowles - the Challenge, now considered the mostregion is reinventing itself as a classic prestigious of its type in the southernwine tourism destination. hemisphere, 483 entries from seven34 PASSIONATE ABOUT PROSECCO countries were tasted.In the north-eastern corner of Italy 42 STOMPING TO SUCCESSthey’ve been enjoying the local Late starters in the wine business,bubbles since Roman times. Now, Jan and Jorg Gartelmann havesays Giorgio Fragiacomo, their love quickly caught up to the mainaffair with prosecco, an aperitivo players, transforming their Hunterspeciality, has finally gone global. Valley winery into a success story, 42Double-digit sales growth in the writes Rick Allen. Jorg was in his mid-US and UK over the last five years 50s in 1996 when he walked awaycontinues to drive prosecco’s from a career in computer software to W I N E T A S T I N G Sphenomenal growth. follow their wine dream. 66 Pinot Noir 44 TAKING CARE OF BUSINESS 76 Champagne & Sparkling The wine making mantle has been 88 Limestone Coast passed from father to son in South Australia’s South East. Luke Tocaciu 96 Hunter Valley has assumed sole winemaking 102 North East Victoria responsibilities at Patrick of 108 Hawkes Bay, NZ Coonawarra following the death of his father, Pat, earlier this year. Pat’s 114 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases dream was to build his own winery, writes Adam Jarvis, and before he died, he and Luke worked together to ensure the vision continued to grow. 119 New Releases and Top 40 Best Buys under $20. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 258 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au November/December 2013 Cover photograph © Joe Biafore.
luxury releAse 2013the 2013 Wolf blass luxury collection features a portfolio of wines that represent Australian winemaking at its finest. our winemaking team presents an expression of dedicated craftsmanship; conveying passion, creativity and individuality in every bottle. 94 POINTS Wolf blass black label 2009 James Halliday Australian Wine companion 2014 AvA i l A bl e f rom o c tobe r 2013
editorialTHIS IS AN ISSUE INCORPORATING MOSTTHINGS PINOT; whether it be the Queen of brokenhearts, the ever elusive pinot noir black grape, or as part of ablanc de noir sparkling wine (white colour from black grapes).For the latter, grapes are picked earlier with minimal skincontact - from which we get the red wine colour of the varietalgrape. The juice itself is neutral and if extracted quick and coldthere is little impact on the colour, apart from the occasionaldull bronzing effect in sparkling wines where pinot noir (andoften its even lighter cousin pinot meunier) is combined withchardonnay to give the most refreshing drink. Continuing with the sparkling theme, but a bit whiter anddrier, are the fabulous proseccos of Italy. Here our Italian wineeditor, Giorgio Fragiacomo, waxes lyrical about these northerngems which are gathering a following as racy aperitif delightsamong the chattering classes. For the winemaker pinot may be the ultimate challenge, asthere is a very fine line with holding the integrity of the originalvarietal fruit while at the same time trying to build flavour with just the right amount of pressings and oakcomplexity. Do too little and the wine can be light and simple, do too much and the varietal characterdisappears and the wine becomes just another dry red. This variety is definitely more region consciousthan other reds and tends to perform best in the colder climes. For the regional aficionado there is a host of interest in this issue beginning with an article on therevival of Victoria’s Goulburn Valley through the wineries of Tahbilk, Mitchelton and Fowles. It is greatto see this from a region that is somewhat unfairly underrated compared with the big names. In SouthAustralia we have our annual Limestone Coast tasting, with Coonawarra at the forefront, and a movingstory on the Patrick winery where Pat Tocaciu passed away recently. Known both for his football skillsas well as his winemaking skills, it is hard to believe that this gentle giant succumbed to the ravagesof cancer earlier this year. Up north in the Hunter Valley region of New South Wales, Gartelmann winery finally cracked thetop award for last year’s Best Semillon of the Year and it was a good excuse to feature them as anintroduction to our Hunter Valley tasting. For Kiwi wine lovers, New Zealand editor, Michael Cooper,conducted our annual judging of Hawke’s Bay wines. This famous region is well known as the producerof outstanding chardonnays, but lately it is also producing some fine mid-weight syrah wines to rivalNorthern Rhone styles. This is also a big issue for new release wines where wines of all styles are submitted from many andvaried regions. It is always a great tasting, where the new season wines come on board and anticipationis high, both from the producers and the judges. 2013 is looking quite promising but it is too early totell whether it is as good as 2012. We may need lots of practice to find out. That’s my excuse and I’msticking to it! Drink well and moderately.Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/PublisherNovember/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 9
briefsSCREEN SUCCESS Speaking in Melbourne in July for the launch of the 2004 Dom Perignon - and just weeks before hail destroyed a number ofAN Australian-made vineyards in the Champagne region - he said he and otherdocumentary featuring the champagne producers have been seeing climate change firstgrowing power and influence hand with warmer vintages in recent decades.of Chinese businessmen inthe Bordeaux wine market With Champagne so northerly and marginal in growinghas met with the approval conditions for wine grapes, he added, there could be benefits.of screen great, Robert de The warmer years are bringing with them greater consistency,Niro. The documentary, Red with more vintages being declared by houses. However, theObsession, caught the eye of draw back is increased ripeness in the grapes, something hardthe actor during a screening at to avoid. While some of Geoffroy’s colleagues disliked the idea,the recent Tribeca Film Festival in New York. He called it a wonderful he did not. “If I am offered a greater potential for ripeness, I’mfilm and named it as one of his two festival favourites. Producer and just going for it instead of being really uptight and trying toco-writer, Warwick Ross (pictured), says he was chuffed to have the restrain the whole thing,” he said. “I’m not afraid of ripeness.”documentary acknowledged. Filmed in both Bordeaux and China, it Fortunately for him, 2004 proved to be a classic year producingattempts to explain the complicated relationship developing between elegance and balance. Sadly, one week after Geoffroy’sthe two nationalities brought together by wine. China is Bordeaux’s Australian visit, hailstorms ripped through the Champagne areanumber one wine importer but is also set to become its major destroying 300ha of vines, with villages around Epernay andcompetitor in the years ahead as more vineyards are planted. Ross, the Cotes des Blancs the worst hit.with fellow Australians film maker David Roach and Sydney-basedwine auctioneer, Andrew Caillard, MW, travelled to Bordeaux during FIRST FOR WHITEthe annual en primeur tastings in 2011 to gauge opinion, interviewingthe owners of the major First Growths. They then followed up the RENOWNED Sauternes wine producer Chateau Coutet has justother side by travelling to China and seeking out the host of multi- released its first dry white wine in Australia, Opalie. The unusualbillionaires who collect the creme de la creme of Bordeaux wines dry white also has no influence from the botrytis mould which- and increasingly its wine estates - driving prices ever upwards. The contributes so much to the region’s famous signature sweet style.film had its national release in Australia on August 15. “There are some dry whites made in Bordeaux using botrytis but not ours,” explained Aline Baly, brand ambassador for herCLIMATE CHANGE CHALLENGE family’s estate, during a rare trip to Australia. The 2010 vintage Opalie is surprisingly rich, weighing in at 14.5 per cent alcohol,RICHARD Geoffroy, the chef de cave at Dom Perignon, something Baly believes makes it an excellent accompaniment tobelieves champagne makers - and drinkers - will have to get many foods. The energetic Baly promises to be more of a visitorused to climate change. to these shores promoting not only the dry side to Coutet but also its more familiar sweeter side.10 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
briefsCELLAR DOOR PLANS TAKE SHAPE PERSISTENCE PAYS OFFWEALTHY Melbourne property developer Elias “Eli” Jreissati has FOR 40 years Helm Wines has doggedly promoted two ofunveiled plans for a spectacular $5million cellar door and restaurant Australia’s greatest but least appreciated grapes, riesling andfor his Levantine Hill Estate vineyard at Coldstream in the Yarra Valley. cabernet sauvignon.The plans, which are still before council, include a large arched roof ofsteel rods covering the complex mimicking vine trellising which will be And after 40 years it finally looks like Helm Wines might be gettingcovered in living vines. Just what kind of vines has yet to be decided its way. It’s been a long time. “We’ve stuck by them,” says owner/but the effect promises to be spectacular. “It will look like a natural hill winemaker Ken Helm “because we believe in them”. A tasting ofon the landscape but only when you start driving up to it will it reveal Helm riesling - in all of its many guises from dry to semi-sweetmore,” says Jreissati. Up closer the cellar door and 100-seat restaurant - and cabernet sauvignon revealed that the cool area aroundwill be all glass. He hopes to be up and running by Christmas 2014. Murrumbateman is indeed well-suited to producing fine bonedThe second stage, a winery, is all set to go on the drawing board, riesling and well-structured cabernet at some distinctly low-ishwith new Levantine Hill Estate winemaker, Paul Bridgeman, behind alcohols. All of the premium rieslings tasted from 2004 onwardsthe plans. Bridgeman, former winemaker at Yarra Yering, is due to were under 12.5 per cent alcohol, something Helm is particularlytake over his new role at Levantine Hill Estate in early September. insistent on, picking the grapes early he says avoids sun burn and that not so great Aussie kerosene character, and also providesHARDYS MARKS A MILESTONE high natural acids for ageing.THE new William Hardy range of keenly priced $21 wines from With his daughter, Stephanie, as assistant winemaker in chargeHardys Wines celebrates the fifth-generation Hardy to be involved of red wines Helm now devotes his winemaking energy to thein wine. Except everyone who knows him calls him Bill. The wines riesling. It’s been a long journey. “Everybody said Canberra is too- 2012 Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc and 2012 chardonnay; bloody cold and nothing good ever came out of Canberra,” he says.a 2012 Barossa Valley shiraz and 2012 Coonawarra cabernet “We understand how to make great riesling and cabernets.sauvignon - take the William Hardy moniker because the marketing You’re going to see a lot more of them in years to come.”department thought it sounded better, a little more formal than theinformal Bill. They celebrate the winemaker’s 40 years of serviceto the company his great grandfather, Thomas Hardy, founded160 years ago and signal a renewed spring in the step of Hardys.The company, under the Accolade Wines group umbrella, hasspearheaded the group’s success in the UK (where it is its biggestselling wine brand) but has remained quiet on the home front inrecent years. The new range now gets to battle it out in one of thefastest growing market segments vying for the drinker’s dollar.wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 11 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E
briefsSPARKLING FUTURE FAMILY ‘WRITES’ ANOTHER CHAPTERA RECENT Tasmanian trade mission to Champagne, the home ELDERTON, one of the Barossa Valley’s most successful family-of sparkling wine, has resulted in several Champagne houses owned wineries, is the result of a happy accident over 30 years ago.interested in investing in the state’s potential. The late Neil Ashmead and his wife, Lorraine, returning to Australia from a spell working in Saudi Arabia, purchased a property in A group led by industry veteran Andrew Pirie met with several Nuriootpa that was surrounded by a derelict vineyard on the banksleading industry figures in Champagne and while matters are still of the North Para River. The vineyard had been planted in 1894 andvery much in negotiation Economic Development Minister David contained some fine old vines, but had been left to deteriorate forO’Byrne suggested that several were interested in planting vines on several years. The Ashmeads set about restoring the vines and inthe Apple Isle. “There was immense interest from the Champenois, 1982 made their first wines under the Elderton label. In 1993, Eldertonwith several asking Andrew’s thoughts on viticultural issues given shot to prominence after winning the Jimmy Watson Trophy and 10the similarities of the two climates. There is every reason to be years ago the second generation - brothers Cameron and Allisterpositive.” O’Byrne said. Around 40 per cent of Tasmania’s wine Ashmead - took control of the business. Wanting to take Elderton toproduction is sparkling, which is predominantly produced in the the next level, in 2007 they purchased a vineyard in the cooler Edennorth-east. There are currently 1600ha under vine, but Pirie has Valley and in 2010 bought “for a song” the almost 100-year-old Helbigsaid he believes this figure could rise as much as ten-fold in the vineyard in Greenock, a 15-minute drive from Nuriootpa. The newcoming years. “Prices for land are also still fairly low, around a tenth vineyards are managed using sustainable viticultural practices andof that in New Zealand. This won’t last forever,” he said, adding the first wines from the Greenock vineyards hit the market this week;that “whole new regions are opening up”. named in a no-nonsense fashion as Greenock One and Greenock Two. Originally planted by the Helbig family in 1915, the vineyard hasTASSSIE provided fruit for wines, including Rockford, Two Rivers, St Johns RoadCONNECTION and Colonial Estate. It is planted largely with shiraz and cabernet, along with the French varieties carignan, grenache, mourvedre, andBAROSSA Valley big gun Grant small amounts of chardonnay and semillon. “Everyone in the BarossaBurge recently released his knows about the quality of fruit this vineyard produces so it was quitefirst sparkling wine made from a coup to buy it - even in a rundown state,” says Cameron Ashmead.Tasmanian fruit - the 2004 “We picked it up for a quarter of what was the asking price a fewHelene Grand Cuvee. years earlier - and it’s a real investment in the future, something we can hand on to our children,” he said. A blend of 54 per cent pinotnoir and 46 per cent chardonnay The 2012 Greenock One is ausing fruit from the Pipers River 100 per cent shiraz made fromregion, it is named after a house low-yielding vines averagingthat his wife, Helen, grew up in around 30 years of age. It’son Cotswold Place in the Hobart an intense wine, with ripe fruitsuburb of Moonah. but great structure and length as is the Greenock Two, a “It became clear to me that traditional Barossa blend.the Tasmanian fruit to which I had access had the right acid/PH Both retail for $30. The thirdlevels, alcohol, varietal fruit definition and phenolics for a truly great wine made from the Helbigvintage wine,” Burge said. “The Helene is quite simply the most Vineyard is the Elderton 2012outstanding sparkling we have produced.” Western Ridge ($55), a blend of grenache and carignan,NEW CHIEF pretty and textural, made largely from old vine fruit. It’sTREASURY Wine Estates has named Charles “Chilly” Hargrave as a pale wine that blossoms withthe new chief winemaker for its two Tasmanian labels - Heemskerk food. Still in the pipeline from the 2013 vintage is the new Eldertonand Abel’s Tempest. Hargrave, a 35-year industry veteran flagship, to be known simply as 15, and made from single-vineyardsucceeds Anna Pooley, who is now working for her family’s shiraz fruit from vines dating back to 1915. It will be released inwinery in the Coal River Valley. As group sparkling winemaker for 2015-16 and has winemaker Richard Langford particularly excited.Treasury Wine Estates, Hargrave worked closely with Heemskerkviticulturist Jamie Hewett across sparkling vineyards in theCoal River Valley and Derwent Valley. “I think the wines we areproducing out of Tasmania are some of the best examples oftheir varieties: steely riesling, beautiful aromatic pinot noir, tautand linear chardonnay, and sparkling wines with lovely finesse,”Hargrave says. His appointment came in the same week TreasuryWine Estates announced it was buying the White Hills Tasmanianvineyard from Brown Brothers.12 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
briefsLARDER LAUNCH HODDER COMESA TASTY SUCCESS OF AGETASMANIAN wine tourism has SUE Hodder has built abeen boosted by the launch reputation as one of Australia’sof a new regional tasting leading winemakers over twocentre at Lilydale focusing decades at iconic Wynnson the state’s premium cool- Coonawarra Estate - whereclimate wines, whisky, cider, she this year came of age,beer and local produce. The celebrating her 21st straightLilydale Larder - in the main vintage. Hodder is not one ofstreet of the picturesque village - comprises a cafe, providore, your rock-star winemakers;bottle shop, tasting centre, bar and functions room. The highlight all loud shirts and outrageousof the offering is a rotating “Meet the Producer” program in the statements. She’s quiet,Larder providore that features local winemakers, viticulturists, introspective and serious aboutbrewers, distillers, gourmet food producers and farmers. “It is all what she does. In conjunctionabout celebrating the best of Tasmania,” Lilydale Larder manager with viticulturist Allen Jenkins, she has lifted the quality not only of theIan White said. “We have so many amazing producers that we are Wynns vineyards, but also the wines; introducing individual vineyardshowcasing - some of whom don’t have a cellar door or farm gate wines and adding interest across the range. The flagship Wynns reds,shop, some who are closed for certain months of the year and John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon and Michael Shiraz, both onlyothers who also recognise the value of being a part of a regional released in outstanding vintages, are more elegant, potentially long-tastings centre. This is all about adding to northern Tasmania’s lived, than ever before. Alice Springs-born Hodder (perhaps Australia’spremium tourism experience through a co-ordinated regional only winemaker born in the Red Centre), has been chief winemaker atapproach that is open seven days a week in the heart of stunning Wynns, succeeding larger-than-life Peter Douglas, in 1998. She beganNorth Eastern Tasmania‘s food and wine producing region.” her life in wine as a viticulturist and her wines reflect her low-key butThe tastings program includes wines from Clover Hill, Sinapius, meticulous approach. Hers are bottles that reflect their terroir and areHarrisons Vineyard and Leaning Church Vineyard, single malt for connoisseurs who appreciate wines that whisper rather than shout.whisky from Lark Distillery and cider from Dickens Cider. Lilydale “As a winemaker here,” she says, “you inherit an unparalleled heritage;Larder owners, Sarah and Mark Hirst, also the owners of Leaning great mature vineyards in terra rossa soil and a responsibility to theChurch Wines, said: “This is a very exciting time for tourism in triple gabled label. It is about being custodian of a great winemakingthe north of the state and we’re delighted to be featuring such tradition.” Work in the vineyards, and on different clones, is ongoing.unique, all-encompassing tastings.” Lilydale Larder cafe, providore Non-performing merlot and cabernet vines have been replaced.and tastings centre is open Monday to Friday 8am-5pm, and atweekends 9am-5pm. The bar and bottle shop are open noon-8pm New vintage premium releases include the 2010 WynnsSunday to Thursday and noon-midnight Friday and Saturday. Messenger Cabernet ($75), the 2010 Michael Shiraz ($150) and the 2010 John Riddoch Cabernet (also $150).COMMON CONNECTION AND THE WINNERS ARE …NEW England in northern New South Wales would appear to havelittle in common with Italy, but the two latest releases from New THE Tamar Valley WineEngland’s Topper’s Mountain Wines are 2010 Nebbiolo ($38) and a Route crowned the winners2010 Barbera ($32). The Topper’s Mountain vineyard, located some of its 2013 awards at a900m above sea level on the spine of the Great Dividing Range near function at Design CentreArmidale, is home to a range of alternative grape varieties. Both Tasmania. Winners were:these Italian varieties are relatively new to Australia, with barbera Tamar Valley Wine Routeintroduced in the 1960s and nebbiolo in the 1980s. “These varieties service to the industry award:have an extremely long history in their homelands,” explained Topper’s Sally McShane of HumbugMountain vigneron Mark Kirkby “with barbera tracing its ancestry Reach for her work on theback to the 1780s in the hills of Monferrato in Piedmont. We have only TVWR History Project; awardgrown these varieties for a relatively short period of time; however we for service from an externaluse the knowledge and experience of the Italian growers, along with organisation: The Pinot Shop;our own knowledge of the New England region, to get the best out best wine list: Davies Grandof the varieties.” Nebbiolo traces its ancestry back to the mid-1200s Central and award for service from a cellar or vineyard worker:and is Italy’s most renowned wine variety. Topper’s Mountain wines John Latchford of Moores Hill. Honorary life memberships wereare available from select retailers and restaurants within Australia, as awarded to Rod Cuthbert and Mary Dufour, formerly of Iron Potwell as direct from their website at www.toppers.com.au. Bay, and Mike Sharman, formerly of Sharmans Wines. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 13
briefsCELEBRATING CIDER Tasmania’s regional areas, add to the experience of getting behind the scenery and save many apple trees from being grubbed out.TASMANIA has always been known as the Apple Isle and cider Overall, it will go to helping restore the Tasmanian image as theproducers, including Willie Smith’s, Pagan, Frank’s and Spreyton Cider, Apple Isle, albeit this time for cider.” Founding members of the newjoined the recent Tasmania Unbottled tastings around the country at Cider Tasmania association are locals Dickens Cider at Hillwood;the same time as an announcement was made of state funding to Small Players Cider (Holm Oak) at Rowella and Spreyton Ciderlaunch new cider trails. at Spreyton, along with Lost Pippin at Richmond; Red Sails at Middleton, Willie Smith’s Organic Cider at Grove; Frank’s Cider at Mark Robertson from Lost Pippin, president of the new Franklin, Pagan Cider in Hobart and Two Metre Tall at Hayes. “Theassociation of Tasmanian cider producers, said: “Tasmania is at locations of our producers are in some of the most picturesquethe cusp of an important development which will see a resurgence parts of our state, making a Tasmanian Cider Trail an excellentof Tasmania’s much-loved and threatened apple industry. This new tourism investment,” Robertson said.cider trail initiative delivers an opportunity to place Tasmania atthe top of the cider pile, where it belongs. It will deliver a high-end In the Huon Valley, both Frank’s and Willie Smith’s are set toexperience for locals and visitors. This initiative will create jobs in open cellar door tasting facilities in time for the summer season.14 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
briefsHANDY The panoramic sound-proof windows offer guests the thrill ofACCOMMODATION plane watching, with views of Botany Bay. The Stamford has 315 luxury rooms, including nine Raffles suites, each featuringTHERE is something about a large master bedroom, with separate living area and spaciousairport hotels. They tend to luxury bathroom. The Grove restaurant is a casual eatery, thebe full of stressed people; highlight of which is the large selection of Singaporean/Asianrushing to check out to make dishes on the menu. There’s also the AV8 Bar and Café withsure they catch their next gourmet pizzas, burgers, fresh pastas and steak, and a lobbyflight; suffering from jet lag bar. Packages start from $167 per night, with buffet breakfastsor heading to meetings in an a dollar more, while Park and Fly deals include overnightunfamiliar time zone. accommodation, car parking for up to seven nights and a return shuttle bus transfer to either the domestic or international Winemakers are particularly familiar with this phenomenon, terminals with Sydney Super Shuttle. For details, current priceswhether flying to or from tastings. The Stamford Plaza Hotel and bookings see Stamford.com.au/ssa.at Sydney Airport - an airport hotel that’s actually close to theairport (not a 20-minute drive away) - offers a better than usualoption. The Stamford is more like a resort than an airport hotel,although some of the rooms actually overlook the runwaysand aircraft hangers - and you can easily walk to or from thedomestic terminals in around 5-10 minutes. There’s no aircraftnoise to bother those desperately needing sleep; the sound-proofing and blackout curtains do their jobs - and the wake-upcalls are reliable. It comes as no surprise, then, to find thehotel has been voted best airport hotel in Australia by Skytraxfor three years in a row. There’s quality feel here, along withfacilities, including a large gym and outdoor swimming pool.introducing a collection aFlSdOTIROANi.VRSDcAEEEoLSITLmE,AACVIBTLI.ESSaLIEDTuof premium wines atnot-so-premium pricesAustrAliA Margaret River W.A. McLaren Vale S.A. Coonawarra S.A.*9$ 99 9$ 99 9$ 99 9$ 99 ea ea ea eaA.C. Byrne & Co Margaret A.C. Byrne & Co A.C. Byrne & Co A.C. Byrne & Co McLarenRiver Semillon Sauvignon Margaret RiverBlanc 2012/2013 750ml Chardonnay Margaret River Cabernet Vale Shiraz 2011 750ml 2012/2013 750ml Merlot 2011 750mlClassically Margaret river with Classically Mclaren Vale withexpressive fruits of citrus blossom, rich and opulent with generous concentrated wild berry, blackberry Modern and wonderfully expressive flavours of blackberry, plum and and blueberry flavours finishinglemon, passionfruit, herbs and tropical with citrus blossom, white peach and soft dark fruits. A wine with charm, with light spice, chocolate andfruits with an underlying minerality. nectarine fruits and a delicate elegance and flavour through clove characters. A wine of richness integration of French oak. the finish. and generosity.25LooiKfyuonuder ALDI supports the responsible service of alcohol. It is illegal to purchase alcohol for people under 18.reiq.du.irised *The A.C. Byrne & Co. Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was not made in the 2011 vintage due to vintage conditions. This wine will return with the 2012 vintage.ALC5314_Winestate_Mag_Sept_2013.indd 1 November/December 2013 W I N E S T7/A15T/13E 2:38 PM15
briefsCELEBRATING PIONEERING SPIRIT ST HUGO CELEBRATESIT’S one of Australian wine’s greatest pioneering stories - a ONE of Australia’s best-loved fine wines has marked a 30-father and son, a horse and cart, and thousands of vine cuttings. year milestone with the release of the new vintage of St HugoAlmost 100 years after JJ McWilliam made a trip from Junee to Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2010 vintage is the 30th vintage of thisHanwood, his legacy was honoured at a special centenary event. wine, and is being released in 2013 - 30 years after the originalThe McWilliam Wines Hanwood founder was granted Farm 133 1980 vintage of St Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon was launched inon August 12, 1913, planting his first vineyard the following July. 1983. Over its lifetime, the St Hugo label has built a reputationWith the help of his son, Jack, he built the region’s foundation as wine of outstanding quality and style. Chief winemaker Samwinery from the ground up, laying the groundwork for an empire Kurtz says the 2010 vintage conveys all the classic hallmarksthat still thrives today. By the late ’20s, JJ McWilliam and Sons of St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. “The 2010 vintagehad become New South Wales’ leading producer, establishing a is a wine of impeccable elegance. Lifted cassis and black fruitsecond winery at Yenda in 1922. In honour of his contribution, a flavours are supported by oak-derived cedar and hazelnut notes,plaque was unveiled at Pioneer Park, Griffith, with a special family with silky fine grained tannins,” he says. The new release bearsget together also marking the centenary. McWilliam’s chairman a new-look label which demonstrates the focus placed on StDoug McWilliam, JJ’s great-grandson, said it was a major milestone Hugo as a stand-alone brand. It was released on Septemberfor the family. “It’s significant in itself that one family has operated a 19, the anniversary of the birth of Hugo Gramp, after whom Stwinery for 100 years in the irrigation area,” McWilliam said. “We’re Hugo wines are named. The St Hugo range in Australia has anstill a family company, we’re still in business, and it speaks volumes RRP of $49.99 and includes St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernetfor the viability of the MIA as a hub for industry and horticulture.” Sauvignon 2010 (new vintage), St Hugo Barossa Shiraz 2010, St Hugo Barossa Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2010 and St HugoMAKING THE MOST South Australia Shiraz Cabernet 2009.OF CONNECTIONS CENTRALLYDAVID Levin is the LOCATEDconsummate hospitalityprofessional. He’s a METRO Apartments onhotelier, a restaurateur and Bank Place in Melbournea vigneron, whose wines are a popular destinationcan be found on some of for winemakers on a budgetAustralia’s smartest wine who wish to be centrallylists, including MoVida and located in the city CBD. TheHutong in Melbourne and The apartments are in a cobbledIvy, est and Tetsuya’s in Sydney. A Scotsman, based in London, laneway between CollinsLevin and his wife Lynne nonetheless have several links with the and Little Collins streets, with two pubs and several restaurantsAustralian wine industry, including the fact that many leading on the doorstep, but are nonetheless extremely peaceful.winemakers opt to stay in Levin’s Capital Hotel, just around the There’s a tram stop virtually at the doorway to take you to thecorner from Harrods. Levin, a long-time friend of the late Len Evans MCG or the National Gallery of Victoria, or maybe for some winealso has a key link to Australia - he imported his Loire Valley winery sipping in one of Melbourne’s many trendy bars.lock, stock and barrel from Australia and he and wife Lynne nowproduce sauvignon blanc, gamay and rosé. Levin met with South Metro Apartments on Bank Place has 46 studio and one-Australian architects who specialise in wineries in Australia and bedroom apartments, as well as a spa room and a split-level,together with a common vision they built one in the Adelaide Hills two-bedroom penthouse. The suites include a fully equippedand then shipped every pipe/pump/nut and bolt to the Loire. It was kitchen with fridge, crockery and cutlery and laundry - as wellquite a feat getting a construction company to move it - but the as TVs with satellite channels. Guests enjoy complimentary dailyLevins wanted to emulate New World winemaking techniques in newspapers, fluffy bathrobes, hairdryers and in-house movies -the Old World while also using organic principles. Back in 1965, just like in an expensive hotel, but without the matching price tag.Levin pioneered the “gastro pub” concept in the UK and in 1971 There are also some very good online deals for those with the timeopened The Capital Hotel in Knightsbridge, then the only London to peruse the internet. Guests can book at Metro Apartments onhotel combining accommodation with a fine dining restaurant. It Bank Place and other Metro Hotels properties on 1800 004 321continues to thrive today with Outlaw’s Seafood and Grill opening or online at www.metrohotels.com.au.in October 2012. The Levin family now own both the Capital Hoteland Apartments and the nearby Levin Hotel. Online rates at TheCapital Hotel start from around $270 per night. The Capital, 22-24Basil St, Knightsbridge, London SW3; phone: +44 20 7589 5171.www.capitalhotel.co.uk.16 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
For Hyatt Regency Perth, excellence in food General Manager, Adam Myott, said the More recently, the hotel hosted aand beverage is a key element in providing hotel is proud to be able to offer wines decedent feast, bringing together foodguests with a memorable experience. from the local wine industry. and wine for all to enjoy. Suitably titled, The Great Southern Winemakers Dinner,Whether it’s for guests staying on business “Supporting the Western Australian wine the event showcased some of the Greator visitors attending an event, Hyatt industry has always been part of the Southern flavours in both the produceRegency Perth’s menus are carefully culture for the hotel,” he said. used and in the wine to match.created to offer creative cuisine, usinglocal produce whenever possible and “Those local to Perth enjoy seeing these The hotel’s award winning restaurant,fresh, seasonal flavours. This approach is wines on our menus. And those who are Cafe, is also known to offer uniqueall part of Hyatt’s global philosophy, tourists staying with us, are pleased to have dining opportunities such as the FestivalFood: Thoughtfully Sourced, Carefully the opportunity to try something which is of Colours which marked Holi FestivalServed, an initiative rolled out in 2012. synonymous with Western Australia.” offering an array of Indian cuisine. More recently the hotel hosted a Middle EasternWith a number of chefs from all corners of He adds that the hotel enjoys being promotion and a Middle Eastern promotionthe globe, Hyatt Regency Perth continuously involved in a number of fantastic wine which included a chef from Grand Hyattcreates new dishes and updates banquet events such as The Qantas Wine Show Doha joining the team in Perth to presentmenus with innovative changes, taking into Top 50 Tasting, and the Qantas Wine traditional Arabic dishes.consideration multi-cultural tastes, dietary Show Awards Dinner, both of which haverequirements and themes. been held at the hotel for 8 years. Benefit More with Club at the HyattExecutive Chef, Mark Sainsbury, says a In addition to this, Winestate’s Best of the Become a Club at the Hyatt member andfundamental part of Hyatt Regency Perth’s West public winetasting event took place enjoy exclusive benefits for dining andsuccess in food and beverage, is having there in early 2013 with further events accommodation at Hyatt Regency Perththe ability to produce beautifully presented planned for 2014. In 2012, the hotel and other participating Hyatt propertiesand a high standard of food, on a large dedicated an entire week to wine events worldwide. A yearly membership feescale for any event. including Champagne, Pearls and Oysters, entitles you to up to 50% discounts when and an evening of Pigs, Duck and Pinot. dining with one or more guests at our multi“Even with large events in the Grand award winning restaurant Cafe as well asBallroom, we ensure each dish is to the Joe’s Oriental Diner and Conservatory.same quality the guest would receive in arestaurant – the food is served fresh, the Members will also receive complimentaryingredients are tasty and innovative and self-car parking and enjoy discountsthe presentation is immaculate,” he said. on special dates such as Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Jazz Lunch on Sunday,In addition to the cuisine, there is an Easter, Christmas and New Year.extensive selection of wine, much of whichis from Western Australia.Phone: 08 9225 1234 - Email: [email protected] - www.perth.regency.hyatt.com - facebook.com/perth.regency.hyatt
nzbriefswhat’s happening on the NZ wine sceneOYSTER BAY TOPS THE LISTS GROUNDS FOR OPTIMISMWE all know about the popularity of Oyster Bay Marlborough WITH export prices for NZ wine climbing and a big boost inSauvignon Blanc, but the brand’s huge success with chardonnay, production from the favourable 2013 vintage, the country’smerlot and pinot noir is less well recognised. Delegat’s Wine winegrowers are a lot more optimistic than a couple of yearsEstate, owner of the Oyster Bay brand, recently released a list ago, when a glut drove prices down and several producers outof its “number one” achievements in Australia, the UK and the of business. “New Zealand is a very small producer in globalUS. In Australia, Oyster Bay is now the biggest-selling sauvignon terms,” says Joe Stanton, chief executive of Constellation Newblanc and pinot noir, both in volume and value terms, according Zealand, owner of the Kim Crawford, Nobilo, Selaks, Monkeyto grocery scan data for the year to June 2013. In the over-$A10 Bay and other brands. “A lot of consumers have yet to becategory, Oyster Bay also heads the chardonnay and merlot introduced to our wines.” Constellation New Zealand is keen tocategories. In the UK, the picture is similar - Oyster Bay is the intensify its sales momentum in North America and Asia, whiletop-selling sauvignon blanc, in value terms. Oyster Bay also tops also breaking into new markets. New Zealand Winegrowers,the eight pounds and above categories in chardonnay, pinot the industry body, has a similar marketing strategy. “Growthnoir and merlot. And in the US, Oyster Bay ranks as the biggest- markets such as Asia (especially China), continental Europeselling, over-$US10 imported chardonnay. and North America are our primary focus, as these are markets where our category is still in the development phase. In moreA NEW LOOK FOR VILLA MARIA established markets such as the UK and Australia our aim will be to protect our market position.” Philip Gregan, CEO of NZFROM the 2013 vintage onwards, all Villa Winegrowers, believes China could absorb nearly 15 per centMaria wines will be packaged with a freshly of NZ’s wine output within three years, a steep rise from 3 perdesigned label. The famous red “V” has been cent in 2012. Peter Yealands, founder of Yealands Estate, hopesretained but the words “New Zealand” are now to export half of his production to Asia within five years. Sincefar more prominent on the label and capsule. mid-late 2011, the average price of the country’s wine exportsThe capsule also depicts Mt Tapuae-o-Uenuku, has soared from $NZ5.60 to $NZ8.24 per litre.which towers above the company’s SeddonVineyard, dominating the Awatere Valley skyline. 2013 A RECORD HARVESTThe winery has responded to overseas criticismthat the former labels lacked “New Zealandness”; NEW Zealand produced more wine than ever in 2013 andin the US, some consumers thought Villa Maria expectations are high in terms of quality. In Marlborough,was an Italian producer. where production soared by 33 per cent, compared to 2012, the region’s producers will have an additional 4.4 millionWINE ON A STICK cases of wine to sell. The harvest yielded 345,000 tonnes of grapes – a 28 per cent leap on 2012 and 5 per cent more thanWHEN temperatures soared in the UK in July, Constellation New the previous heaviest crop in 2011. Spring and summer wereZealand came up with a novel way to keep cool – ice blocks (also notably sunny and dry, bringing a procession of warm days,known as ice lollies and popsicles) infused with Kim Crawford clear skies and cool nights, and the exceptional ripeningwine. Kim Crawford had previously partnered with a New York conditions lingered well into autumn. There has been nocompany, People’s Pops, to produce sauvignon blanc and pinot celebration of the record size of the vintage by the industry,noir popsicles in the US. The pinot noir recipe is based on 680g of no doubt eager to avoid speculation about the possibility ofripe blackberries, 100g of dark cane sugar, 0.1 litres of water and another glut. The good news is that international demand forabout 0.2 litres of Kim Crawford Pinot Noir. Apparently the tartness NZ wine is stronger than ever, especially for Marlboroughof the blackberries highlights “the natural fruit notes of pinot noir, sauvignon blanc, which this year accounted for more thanleaving a slightly tannic finish”. The finished product is only 20 60 per cent of the country’s entire harvest. Syrah was theper cent wine, as the pops won’t freeze at higher alcohol levels. greatest beneficiary of the settled weather, enjoying a 57 per cent leap in grape tonnages over 2012, followed by pinot gris (44 per cent), gewurztraminer (43 per cent), pinot noir (36 per cent), cabernet sauvignon (31 per cent), sauvignon blanc (26 per cent), and merlot (25 per cent). Most regions - except for Auckland and Gisborne - recorded bigger harvests than in 2012.18 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPERSTRAIGHT TALK SAYS IT BEST“FINE wine demands to be talked about,” characteristic of wines described as grass, green beans and asparagus aresays Michael Broadbent in his classic “minerally” is high acidity. the usual culprits - often combined in abook, Wine Tasting. “Words are needed. single tasting note - although there isThere is a wide spectrum of words, It’s amazing what experienced tasters can rarely any mention of grapes.but they more or less boil down to find in a wine glass. Wine Advocate, thetwo categories: factual and fanciful.” highly influential US publication, reported Hugh Johnson, in A Life Uncorked,He believes there is a place for both. that Taylors St Andrews 40th Anniversary declared that the way in which wine is Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 has often described on UK television “makes “Passionate” is the buzz word now with “a deep garnet colour with a hint of purple good television… but I don’t think it reallywinegrowers. If only they realised that to the rim and a very fragrant nose with helps anyone to give what sounds like astating just how “passionate” they are notes of red rose petals, lavender, black recipe for fruit salad”. Far from hints ofabout wine is the quickest route to sounding pepper and kirsch over warm cassis and this and nuances of that, the qualities heexactly like their competitors. a whiff of menthol”. looks for in a wine are vigour and harmony. But when you read a tasting note on New Zealand winegrowers can be Of New Zealand’s wine writers, Keithwine, what types of words and phrases do equally imaginative. Take the back label Stewart has penned some of the longest,you find the most - or least - useful? Does on Pasquale Waitaki Valley Pinot Noir most vivid tasting notes. Take this“fresh” sound a lot more helpful than “firm 2011: “Hibiscus, floral femininity, raspberry glowing review of Te Mata Estate Elstonskeleton”? You are not alone. conserve and a hint of spice lead to a Chardonnay 1987 in The Fine Wines of New Zealand (1995):For wine writers, summarising the results oflengthy, themed tastings, a major challenge is to “This wine makes a brilliant firstminimise repetition. impression. Its bright colour offers the hues of mellow hay or straw burnished Laithwaite’s, a UK retailer, recently savoury palate with Marmite, meat and with the glow of new brass, and itsasked 1000 consumers, “reasonably well- cherries in a beautifully dry setting”. most beautiful bouquet is a spectacleinformed” about wine, for their opinions of cleverly woven fragrances - creamyon tasting notes by 43 prominent critics For wine writers, summarising the hazelnuts, mealy yeast, vanilla, toastand producers. Over half of those polled results of lengthy, themed tastings, a and a whiff of smoke - all clinging to thecomplained that many of the notes did not major challenge is to minimise repetition. lush perfume of ripe grapefruit, with itstell them what they particularly wanted to One obvious option is to draw up a list of hints of succulence and citric tang. Theknow - what each wine tastes like. synonyms. Full-bodied reds, for instance, expectations of this special introduction can be described as big, burly, full- are satisfied by a suitably spectacular The most valued terms were “fresh”, blooded, heady, hearty, hefty, mouthfilling, palate full of big, sweet, ripe grapefruit“zesty” and “peachy”. “Firm skeleton” was muscular, powerful, robust, statuesque, flavours that immediately wash yourjudged the most useless, followed by the strapping, sturdy, substantial, weighty… mouth and last without fading to thelikes of “tongue spanking”, “haunting”, final fragrant lilt of the finish, delivering“nervy”, “brooding” and the currently highly What about crisp white wines? The their succulence without ever appearingfashionable descriptor - “minerally”. possibilities include vigorous acidity, overbearing, or detracting from the biting acidity, bracing acidity, lively dextrous filigrees of subtle flavour the Some wines - chablis and pouilly fume acidity, spine-tingling acidity, racy acidity, winemaker has contributed with shaftsare classic examples - remind tasters of freshly acidic, mouth-wateringly crisp, of fine oak…” And so on, for three morerocks, soils or minerals, leading to the refreshingly crisp, sharp, razor-sharp, long, ecstatic sentences.use of such terms as “chalky” and “wet spiky, steely, tangy, tart, zingy…stone”. But the tiny traces of minerals Peter Saunders, in the first 1976 edition- calcium, potassium, magnesium Marlborough sauvignon blanc typically of his A Guide to New Zealand Wine,- in a wine cannot be tasted. One attracts a wide range of fruit, vegetable was much briefer and less enthusiasticstudy concluded that the only common and plant descriptors. Capsicums, about a non-vintage red from a long- melons, herbs, tomato stalk, passionfruit, established West Auckland producer: “The wine is nasty”. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 19
europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWRUSSIA’S WINE REVOLUTION GATHERS PACEWITH visions of Siberia and frozen tundra solution are fed in at one end of a series buried as a matter of course. Withoutwastelands, it’s sometimes tricky to of pressurised fermentation tanks, and the live burial, vines tend to rather keelimagine that a huge chunk of Russia is sparkling wine is drawn off at the other over and die at around –15C. Specialistin Europe. In fact, with Europe typically end to be bottled. It’s not typically of equipment is needed for the process thatbeing defined as territory west of the Ural the highest quality order, but it’s an costs around $US500/ha to undertake.mountains, some 40 per cent of Europe important domestic category. Tsimlianskiy Wines general manager,lies in the Russian Federation. This means Igor Gubin, said “we take the vines offboth Moscow and St. Petersburg are in Russia’s vineyard area lies in the the (support) wires, then lay down theEurope. And most, if not all, of Russia’s south west part of the country, some vines and cover them with soil using avineyards are in Europe. 1500km south of Moscow. Mostly it lies tractor” which ploughs a seriously deep between the Black and Caspian seas. The 50-60cm furrow to push up enough A big proportion of the vineyards of the Krasnodar region, to the north of the Black earth to cover the whole vine. Gubinold Union of Soviet Socialist Republics Sea, is the main production zone. Some added that the vines must be covered(USSR) lay in some of the other 14 states pretty hardy vines - indigenous varieties by the middle of November (May inthat also declared independence from such as krasnostop and golubok - are the southern hemisphere), before thethe Soviet Union in 1991. To name a few: grown further north in deeply continental temperature really starts to plummet.Georgia (53,000 ha); Moldova (148,000 territory east of Rostov, on the river Don. Blowing equipment then uncovers theha); Ukraine (94,000 ha); Uzbekistan Other regions are Stavropol, east of vines by the end of March (September), which can then be tied to the wiresOf the indigenous varieties, it is krasnostop that is again ready for the short continentalarguably producing the most exciting, high-quality wines. growing season, which largely lasts from April to August/September (equivalent(107,000 ha). Source: OIV, data for 2009, Krasnodar, and Dagestan, further east to October to February/March in thethe most recent available. But the Russian again, on the western side of the Caspian southern hemisphere). The winter freezeFederation itself still has a sizeable Sea. Just the Caucasus mountains even dictates the planting regime - the67,000 ha, not far off half the size of the separate Russia’s main vineyard areas tractors and equipment used to buryAussie vineyard area. from ex-USSR state Georgia. and uncover the vines need at least 2m between the rows, and the vines need Nonetheless, even though consumption Summer may be balmy along the string 1.5m for their growth and resting stages.of wine fell to a modest 3 litres a head of Black Sea coastal resort towns, butby 2000, from around 20 litres a head in even with such a moderating influence of Given the extremes of winter, international1980, now that wine consumption is on the Black and Caspian seas, the climate interloping varieties such as cabernetthe increase again, to around 7.5 litres a is tough enough to warrant buttressing sauvignon, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc,head, domestic supply has failed to keep the vine trunks with earth most winters and merlot, need to be buried eachup with demand. Having shipped in bulk to insulate against the winter chill. winter, but indigenous varieties, includingfrom elsewhere for many years, Russia It’s the winter (rather than summer) tsimlyanskiy chorny (black tsimlyanskiy)has started refocusing on rebuilding its Olympics that will be held at Sochi, on and sibirkoviy (white), have adapted todomestic production, which rose to 5.4 the Black Sea coast, in 2014. To be fair, the harsh conditions.million hectolitres in 2010 (again, broadly the vineyards are mostly a few hundredhalf the volume that Australia produces). kilometres further north-west along Of the indigenous varieties, it is the coast, right at the trailing western krasnostop that is arguably producing Interestingly, about a third of domestic foothills of the Caucasus. the most exciting, high-quality wines.production goes into making sparkling As with viticulture everywhere, nothingwine, which the Russians mostly make Further north, around Rostov, where is simple, as Maxim Troychuk, ofby their own “continuous method”, winters annually descend to a decidedly Vedernikov Winery in fully continentalwhereby base wine and sugar/yeast chilly -26C to -27C, entire vines are Rostov, explained the clonal division and regional rivarly, saying “krasnostop20 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
zolotovsky is our pride. It’s one ofthe best grape varieties in the world.Zolotovsky is near to us, a geographicalplace. Krasnostop originates from thisarea.” Troychuk’s father and managingdirector of the winery described it as “anatural athlete”. On the other hand, weare told, the other, by inference, lesserAnapsky clone, comes from the shoresof the Black Sea. The grape variety certainly has plentyof all the attributes required for goodquality wine - tannin, acidity and flavour,as well as plenty of rich, deep colour. Thisgives it plenty in common with the likes ofhigh quality international grape varietiessuch as cabernet sauvignon and syrah.Ruben Saenz, of Spain’s Bodegas SanPrudencio, who consults for TsimlianskyWines in Rostov, said krasnostop “hasa big spine of flavours with all-roundharmony, fruit, structure, acid andtannin”. In a small tasting, it combined thepotential for medium-bodied eleganceallied with dense, powerful, flavours andstructure. Chateau Le Grand Vostock(Le Chene Royal), and the VedernikovWinery make excellent examples. Though Russia, with its multi-millenniahistory of vine growing, could notpossibly be described as new, it isembarking on a brand new stage ofredevelopment and modernisation. Andas you’d expect with “new” wine regions,there is a lot of experimentation withnew oak. Australia went through thisphase more than a generation ago andhas come out successfully the otherside with much more moderate use.Russia, it seems, is just starting on thatevolutionary process, and already someproducers are pulling away from 100per cent new oak. Even with a solitaryvintage each year, evolution looks likebeing quite rapid.
winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY MAKING SENSE OF SMELLSMELL, or to put it another way, our aromas. AWRI documented that eucalypt geraniol provides the rose petal. Lycheeolfactory ability is a poorly trained sense. In trees in the close vicinity of the vineyards, comes from a compound called cis-rosecomparison, man’s best friend, the humble often planted as wind breaks, increased oxide. These delicate aromas and flavoursdog, has a much better chance of enjoying this aroma. It’s probably through MOG can be masked by heavier diacetyl (butter,a subtle pinot noir than his master with an (matter other than grapes) being cheese) produced by MLF, which is oneolfactory epithelium about 20 times larger. fermented. In other words, eucalyptus reason why you don’t see MLF used inHowever, not many dogs are interested in leaves caught up and fermented in these grape varieties. The monoterpenesbecoming masters of wine, although I did grape bunches when they were machine are unstable in an acidic wine environmentonce find a cellar pooch in the Rheinhessen harvested. It doesn’t take a lot of leaves to and dissolve away over time leavingthat appreciated a good drop of pinot noir. make a difference. It’s not only eucalyptus tertiary aromas to develop. As well as age trees; leaves in general can also affect affecting the aromas, the more alcohol a Wine contains several hundred aroma aroma. The inclusion of grape leaves wine carries the less space there is forcompounds and these can be detected and stems in whole bunch ferments have these delicate monoterpenes.by our olfactory epithelium, depending on also been associated with increases intheir volatility. We can compensate for our rotundone, which can produce a strong Complex and intriguingpoor sense of smell in a couple of ways. pepper aroma in wines. Not all aromasThe volatility of an aroma can be increased are welcome. Parts of the eastern US aromas are what we allby having the wine at the right temperature and Canadian vineyards can suffer fromand not too cold. We can also warm the attacks from Asian Lady Birds. When this chase in a wine.wine up in our mouth and drawing/sucking insect meets its maker it emits a body fluidair through it also increases the aroma. with odours described as similar to rancid On the winemaking side, aromas canHolding a hand over the glass and shaking peanut butter and rotting spinach, which be modified, exaggerated or created.it is another technique. can contaminate a wine. During fermentation ester compounds are created. These fruit and confectionary Aroma comes mainly from four sources. Smell derived from the grapes either aromas often dissipate quickly but canThe grape or blend of grape varieties, its comes initially from the skins or flesh. still be seen in some young white wines.fermentation, the maturation of the wine They include the well-documented Isoamyl acetate is one ester commonlyprior to bottling and finally bottle aged methoxpyrazines, which contribute, in encountered, which is identified by lolly,aromas. The term bouquet is sometimes general terms, herbaceous or vegetal banana aromas. Malolactic fermentationused instead of aroma when referring to notes. It is isobutyl-methoxypyrazine (MLF) is where malic acid is converted inwinemaking or bottle aged smells. Another (IBMP) that gives sauvignon blanc its a secondary fermentation to lactic acidway of describing these aromas is to group green capsicum or gooseberry aroma. by the presence of lactic acid bacteriathem under the headings: primary (fruit), Whereas isopropyl-methoxypyrazine (principally Oenococcus oeni). MLFsecondary (winemaking) and tertiary (IPMP) comes across as the stronger de-acidifies the wine, so it is particularly(bottle development). cooked or canned asparagus aroma. used with red wines. Chardonnay also IBMP can also be found in some cooler- undergoes MLF in barrel. Wine also There are occasionally some unexpected climate cabernet sauvignons. contains citric acid and it is this acid thatsources of smells; take eucalyptus for is converted to acetic acid and diacetylexample. When you smell eucalyptus Monoterpenes are another group of during the malolactic fermentation. Thein a red wine you are identifying the grape-derived aromas. These compounds latter compound provides us with thepresence of 1,8-cineole (eucalyptol). are found in citrus fruits and flowers. nutty, buttery and butterscotch flavours,A survey, conducted by the Australian Aromatic wines that display floral, rose which may or may not be desirable.Wine Research Institute (AWRI), of 146 petal, lychee and citrus aromas, such ascommercial red wines in Australia showed gewurztraminer, muscat a petit grains Continuing on with winemaking aromas,that 40 per cent of wines had detectable and riesling, contain higher levels of vanillin is the natural constituent of vanillaamounts of eucalyptol so it is a fairly monoterpenes. The compound linaloolcommon aroma. This compound is also gives us citrus and floral aromas, whilelinked to mint, medicinal and camphor22 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
and is also found in toasted oak barrels, Yorke Peninsula’swhich explains how vanilla bouquets award winningdevelop in wine. When you get a toasty vineyardnote in a red wine it is acknowledgedthat this comes from the oak maturation.The chemical marker for this is furfural,which is released through barrel toasting,but toast comes up again in bottle agedriesling. Toast here is an aroma thatincreases with age and indicates a slownatural oxidation. While we are on thesubject of riesling, some wines producekerosene notes, a smell, which can betotally alarming to new wine drinkers. 1,1,6- Trimethyl-1,2-dihydonaphthalene orTDN is the compound that is responsiblefor kerosene or petrol. TDN can developvery quickly in wine and has been shownto increase when grapes are exposed towarm temperatures or high degrees ofsun exposure. It could also be influencedby poor (warm) storage conditions. Barnyard is another Dr Jekyll and MrHyde character, providing for somethe complexity of a great red, or oneof the precursors in identifying thefault brettanomyces (a yeast calleddekkera bruxellensis). Medicinal andelastoplast are two other brett relatedaromas. Historically brett dates back toits discovery in 1904 when it was namedas British Sugar Fungus due to beingvery commonly found in British beer.Brett is found in wineries and infectswine barrels. The yeast strain convertsphenolic acids in the grape must andwine into 4-ethylphenol, which gives themedicinal and elastoplast aroma. Complex and intriguing aromas arewhat we all chase in a wine. A neutralsmelling, vaguely grapey aroma cannotbe classified as good quality, at best, it’sacceptable. Understanding the possibleorigins often makes sense and leads togreater enjoyment of wine.
winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGEUROPE’S FLASH DIGS AT BUDGET PRICESSOME backpackers are so hell-bent on Beertje, including Boon Mariage Parfait Vienna’s main shopping street.saving money that spending the minimum Kriek, an unsweetened cherry lambic My grandmother came from Vienna andamount of dollars becomes an Olympic brew. Go to www.bauhaus.be. always berated us with the line: “We didn’tsport and the pleasure of travel rates ask if you played a musical instrument;a distant second. That’s why so-called Located in a 19th century school once we asked which one you played”. ThisFlashpacking has become so popular. If attended by George Bernard Shaw, the endearing musical tradition endures. Theyou are unfamiliar with the term, it means Avalon in Dublin is viewed as hallowed Ruthensteiner offers musical instrumentsstaying at hostels that offer a lot more ground. Conveniently close to Temple for guests to provide “free entertainment”than a basic bunk and packing decent Bar, educating guests remains a major or to show off their talent. Go to www.clothes, laptops, credit cards, cameras goal. A free three-hour tour of Dublin hostelruthensteiner.com.and mobiles. leaves from the reception at 10.45am every day - hail, rain or shine. Dublin The hostel bar serves draught Ottakringer Backpacking with “toys” has become magazine has given the thumbs-up to the beer but wine lovers will gravitate to thea major hit with GAP year students and on-site Bald Barista Cafe for serving the world-famous heurigen in Grinzing. Thethe over-40s on extended trips. And the best espressos in Dublin. There’s plenty best heurige in this touristy area is Hengl-hostel industry, especially in Europe, has of craic (Gaelic for fun and entertainment) Hasselbrunner, owned by the Henglstepped up to the plate. There’s much less every night and a warm welcome in spite family who has been making wine forof a risk of nasty surprises these days, of the large size of the hostel. Go to www. over 400 years. For piece and quiet, headtoo, with review ratings that list a hostel’s avalon-house.ie. across the Danube to the wine villages ofpros and cons in no uncertain words. And, Stammersdorf and Strebersdorf.most importantly, the more you save on Only serious penny-accommodation, the more you have to Anyone who can afford it should stayspend on food and drink. pinchers won’t be at the Parador de Granada, Spain’s most popular parador (Spanish hotels in Like many European World Heritage- tempted to trade up. heritage buildings such as palaces andlisted towns, Bruges has been restored castles). It costs a mint and is housed inand renovated to within an inch of its life. The Guinness Storehouse is Ireland’s a 15th century convent on the groundsDay-tripping Europeans tend to overrun the number one attraction and you can of the fabled palace. But if your budgetstreets and souvenir shops on weekends, enjoy delicious snacks and main dishes can’t stretch that far; try The Oasis hostelbut don’t let the tourist trap look put you off. cooked in the “black stuff” in four in the old town. The winding streets andBruges is crammed with good restaurants restaurants and bars - from mussels alleys hereabouts semaphore their Arabicand bars, and boasts Michelangelo’s in Guinness sauce to Guinness bread heritage, so don’t arrive too late if you’reBruges Madonnna, the only major work to and Guinness cured smoked salmon. spooked by the dark.leave Italy during the maestro’s lifetime. Enjoy a Black Velvet cocktail in the Gravity Bar with panoramic views of the Part of the Spanish-based Oasis hostel The Bauhaus Hostel in Bruges, on Dublin skyline after a brewery tour. Just network, the accommodation is dormcentrally-located Langestraat, also doubles standing at the bottom of the world’s room-only with rates beginning at 13as a budget hotel with all the mod cons. largest pint glass is reason enough for euros per night with breakfast. AddedWhether you book a dorm room or one of a visit to this amazing venue. bonuses include a free tapas tour, thethe private flat rents from 430 euros a week open roof terrace with panoramic viewsfor up to four people, the cleanliness is next Vienna is full of interesting one-off of Granada and you can buy entry ticketsto godliness rule holds. hotels such as the Altstadt and the for the Alhambra at reception so you don’t same principle applies to the city’s have to queue. Don’t miss Casa Enrique Bruges means beer and even before hostels. There’s a bit of an Ivy League in Puerta Real, widely acknowledgedyou head out to one of the town’s many overtone at the newly renovated Hostel as Granada’s most beautiful historic barbars, the hostel offers guests a Belgian Ruthensteiner, even though the rooms and famous for its outstanding selectionbeer sampler. Once fortified, you can are a bit small, because a lot of business of wines from Andalucia and Rioja. Go tojoin the only public brewery tour in town comes from word-of-mouth. The location www.oasisgranada.com.at De Halve Maan. If vintage beer and is good, too. Not far from the Westbahnhofchampagne are more your style, make railway station and Mariahilferstrasse, It must have taken the owners twotracks to De Kelk. The premises may be seconds to come up with the name of thesmall but the beer list is vast at t’ Brugs Czech Inn in Prague. Featured in every24 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
major English-speaking newspaper fromThe New York Times to The Guardian,you’d be mad to look for a budget hotel.Even the dorms look as if they couldfeature in an IKEA catalogue and costfrom 11 euros a night. While pricesfor the private rooms, designed byCzech architect Olga Novotna, beginat a modest $65 per person per night.Go to www.czech-inn.com. The Czechs aren’t only master brewers.Prague is full of wine merchants and oneof the best is Sudova Vina MoravskaDelikatesy where you can sample someof the best vintages from Moravia. GreatCzech cheeses, sausages and curedmeats, too. The Germans opened the first youthhostel in 1912 and standards are uniformlyhigh throughout the country. Rated as oneof the top-10 youth hostels in Germany,the Pfefferbett Hostel is located withinan old brewery site in Prenzlauer Berg,one of the most jumping parts of easternBerlin. The decor is Berlin-cool-meets-industrial chic even in the dorms. Butthe double rooms with phones andshowers are available from only 17 eurosper person per night, so only seriouspenny-pinchers won’t be tempted totrade up. Alexanderplatz is only twotrain stops away and Pfefferbett is only a15-minute walk to World Heritage-listedMuseum Island. Latte macchiatos areserved in the on-site cafe and there’salso a beer garden, and the surroundingrevamped industrial complex also boastsart galleries, clubs and restaurants. Go towww.pfefferbett.de. For a last night blow-out, dress upand head for the new Waldorf Astoriahotel. The Art Deco-inspired Lang Bar,named after iconic movie director FritzLang, is one of the best people-watchingperches in Berlin. Better yet, as a specialtreat book a one-night package, whichincludes a limo from the airport and aglass of champagne on arrival. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 25
winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE L SIMON IN THE HUNTER VALLEY - PART TWOON a hot December day in 1963, after “the smell of a barbecue was a welcome distinction between claret and burgundy,visiting Mt Pleasant and then Lindeman’s herald of underdone grilled beef to a distinction which, as has been pointedfor lunch, Andre Simon and his three partner the Tulloch reds”. One of these out in the past, hardly applies in Australia.companions – Max Lake, Neville Baker reds he had tasted at Johnny Walker’s Simon had long and loudly argued thatand Rudy Komon – called in at the Bellevue “hospitable board” in Sydney. Hector Australia should find its own wine names,Winery of W Drayton & Sons, just north-west Tulloch and his younger brother Keith and not slavishly copy those from Europe.of Mt Pleasant. Strangely, in his account entertained their guests at a long trestle It is strange that in his account of theof the brief visit Simon made no mention table set between two rows of great oak Tulloch tasting he makes no commentwhatsoever of the Draytons, or of any staff. casks. The evening began with two 1959 about this.He tasted only three wines, all made from Private Bin Chablis, one from Lindeman,1963 semillon, from the same vineyard, the other from Penfold, followed by a One feels sympathy for Simon. Heidentified as Bins 3, 10, and 22. All were 1959 Mt Pleasant Robert Hermitage. was from temperate Europe, agedappreciably different. He noted that the Then came three Tulloch Pokolbin 86, and subject to a hectic schedule,wine from the grapes picked and pressed Private Bin Dry Reds, from 1957, 1954, with winemakers and others hanging on his every word, anxious to hear theUndaunted, he set off again next morning, a beautiful master’s opinion about their wines.sunny morning with the promise of a hot day, Airconditioning was a rarity, and wasprobably hotter than the day before. unknown in Australian cars at the time. It was late December and the weathereach day were kept in their own “Bins”, and 1952. Simon preferred the 1954: was hot. At the end of his first day injust as “the best wines of the Rhineland this was probably the wine which he had the Hunter, back in Newcastle beforewhich are known by the number of their previously tasted. Described as one of midnight after what would today be aboutFuder”. A Fuder is, according to Wikipedia, Australia’s great wines, it had won first an hour’s drive, he did not complain, buta German oak barrel with the capacity to prize in both the “Claret” and “Burgundy” recorded how much he enjoyed the “coolhold 265 gallons (1000 litres), and is used classes at the 1956 Royal Sydney Wine night air of the drive after the heat of thefor many years. Simon recorded that the Show as well as “Best Red Wine” of day in the upper 90s (about 35C) – in theBin 3, therefore, “had the tartness of the the Show. Simon would be interested shade!” Before retiring, Simon probablyslightly unripe grapes of the first day’s to learn that the Tulloch Pokolbin Dry wrote up his notes for the day. It was apicking, whereas the wine of Bin 22, which Red label received the 2012 Heritage timetable which would have challengedwas made from more fully ripe grapes in Award at the sixth annual Hunter Valley even a much younger man.the later stage of the vintage, was softer, Legends and Wine Industry Awards. Andfuller and an altogether better wine”. Simon at a recent tasting wine scribe Andrew Undaunted, he set off again nextwas puzzled to learn that this wine would Graham picturesquely described the morning, “a beautiful sunny morning withprobably be marketed as “hock”, while the 1954 as a wine that “didn’t disappoint… the promise of a hot day, probably hotterfirst was likely to be labelled as “chablis”. still carrying enough mid-weight earthen than the day before”. They headed toNot surprisingly, he found this a somewhat red fruit and red dirt Hunterrific flavours to Dalwood, once the home of the Wyndhamdisconcerting approach to the problem of make it enjoyable”. Simon may have been family, and at the time of Simon’s visit“appellations controlee”. surprised at the wine’s ability to last: he a Penfold property. They were met by most certainly would not have approved Perce McGuigan, who showed them the When they arrived at Tulloch’s Winery, of the same wine being awarded the remnants of the 1955 Hunter flood. AsSimon was pleased about two things – two prizes, which made nonsense of the usual, the two whites they tasted, of 1960that it was a little cooler, and also that vintage, were made from semillon. One, lighter in colour and body, was marketed as chablis, and the other as riesling. Again, Simon tactfully made no comment about the nomenclature.26 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
RED REVIVALDRIVES NEW OPTIMISMThere’s a positive pulse in theatmosphere around Hawke’s Bayfollowing a bumper vintage andcontinuing growth in export demand.
THIS YEAR CHINA IS EXPECTED TO OVERTAKE THE UK ASHAWKE’S BAY’S LARGEST OVERSEAS MARKET FOR RED WINE.MICHAEL COOPER the principal grape varieties - each covering worked for a decade in Bordeaux, believes around 20 per cent of the total vineyard vineyards in the Bridge Pa Triangle yieldIF YOU VISIT HAWKE’S BAY, area - followed by pinot gris and syrah, and “softer, rounder wines, plummy and less there are also significant pockets of pinot tannic than those from Gimblett Road”.there’s a strong whiff of optimism in the air. noir, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, cabernetMother Nature delivered New Zealand’s franc, viognier and gewurztraminer. In terms of heat during the growingsecond-largest wine region a great season, the Bridge Pa Triangle is similarvintage in 2013 -13 being a lucky number Given Hawke’s Bay’s promotional focus to the Medoc and Coonawarra, according- and intensifying demand for Hawke’s on its “hot reds” and “red wine story… to the local growers, which include TeBay’s merlot and cabernet sauvignon- the one defining point of difference we Mata, Sileni, Ngatarawa, Alpha Domus,based reds in China is predicted to have from any other region,” it can be a Ash Ridge, Bridge Pa, Bush Hawk,trigger a flurry of vine planting. surprise to learn that only 45 per cent of the Maimai Creek, Abbey Cellars, Paritua,“A decade ago, we were oversupplying region’s total vineyard area is devoted to Redmetal and Salvare.the market with full-bodied reds,” says red-wine varieties (pinot noir, by contrast,Nicholas Buck, general manager of Te accounts for over 75 per cent of Otago’s China beckons. Hawke’s BayMata Estate and chairman of Hawke’s vine plantings). But Hawke's Bay does rank Winegrowers recently upgraded its websiteBay Winegrowers. “But five years ago, we as NZ’s most important producer of merlot, with videos translated into Mandarin.reached equilibrium - and now there’s a cabernet sauvignon and syrah. Exports of the region’s acclaimed merlothint of a shortage.” and cabernet sauvignon-based reds have It’s not all plain sailing right now. Pernod been rising at an annual rate of 10 per Delegat’s - NZ’s second-largest wine Ricard NZ put its large, increasingly under- cent and this year China is expected toproducer, owner of the Oyster Bay brand - is utilised winery in Napier on the market late overtake the UK as Hawke’s Bay’s largestdemonstrating its confidence in the region’s last year, following the sale of its Lindauer, overseas market for red wine.future by building a new winery on the edge Corbans and other brands. Leafroll virus isof Hastings, designed to crush 10,000 causing severe and widespread damage “It’s no wonder that we are seeingtonnes of grapes (equivalent to 700,000 to vine health, especially in the high profile producers of Hawke’s Bay wine travelling tocases of wine. In terms of the company’s Gimblett Gravels district. China, opening offices in China, developingexpanding Hawke’s Bay output, “it’s mostly Chinese joint venture partnerships,about pinot gris, sparkling wine and merlot,” The Bridge Pa Triangle Wine District, expanding their Hawke’s Bay productionsays chief winemaker, Michael Ivicevich. launched last year, is promoting itself base, and engaging more closely with New as “the largest area of high quality wine Zealand’s Chinese business community,” Until recently, Hawke’s Bay - with its production in Hawke’s Bay”. On the south says Buck. Te Mata’s agent is Torres China,“intermediate”, rather than “cool”, grape- side of the Heretaunga Plains, within a a leading distributor with offices in eightgrowing climate - was struggling to make roughly triangular area formed by State cities and over 400 wines from 14 countriesprogress in international markets. Its Highway 50, Ngatarawa and Maraekakaho in its portfolio.strengths lie in merlot and cabernet- roads, the area was often called thebased reds, syrah and chardonnay. The “Ngatarawa Triangle” in the past, and “From the Chinese side, there have beenkey problem, according to Lyn Bevin, sometimes the “Redmetal Triangle”. purchases of Hawke’s Bay vineyards anduntil recently executive officer of Hawke’s a winery (Paritua), with government andBay Winegrowers, was that those regional The district’s soils, slightly more fertile private trade missions occurring on a regularadvantages have been “out of line with than in most of the Gimblett Gravels, have basis.” In Buck’s view, the foreseeable futurenational strategies, focused on sauvignon a 30-50cm layer of sandy silt overlying red of Hawke’s Bay wines can be summed upblanc and pinot noir”. metal gravels. So well-drained are these in two words: “red” and “east”. soils, the vines are all irrigated. Hawke’s Bay’s 79 wine producers Opposite: Villa Maria’s Twyford Gravels Vineyard liesharvested 39,000 tonnes of grapes in 2013 The grapes typically ripen four to seven near the base of Roys Hill, in the heart of the Gimblett- just 15 per cent of Marlborough’s crush. days later than in the Gimblett Gravels. Gravels Winegrowing District.Merlot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay are Merlot has been the big success so far. Consultant winemaker Jenny Dobson, who HAWKES BAY TASTING STARTS PAGE 108. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 29
BACK FROM THE BRINK MICHAEL HINCE THERE’S A GROWING SENSE OF OPTIMISM THAT ONE OFVICTORIA’S HISTORIC WINE REGIONS IS ON THE WAY BACK
N A G A M B I E , the vinous gateway to the magnificent, meandering Goulburn River Some who prefer shiraz gravitate toward has for many years lived in the shadow of Heathcote and others looking for newGoulburn Valley and the Strathbogie Ranges the Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula age pinot noir and aromatic whites suchwine regions - is home to the enigmatic as a wine tourism destination. as riesling look to Victoria’s emergingMitchelton Winery, the historic Tahbilk, and a cool-climate Henty region in the south-smattering of boutique vineyards and wineries. Though some stunning wines, notably east. Regions like these capture the old vine shiraz, cabernets, rieslings and imagination in a way that Nagambie And of late, the entrepreneurial Fowles a host of Rhone-style whites, including Lakes doesn’t.Wines (formerly Plunkett Fowles) in the marsanne, vigonier and roussanne havenearby Strathbogie Ranges, whose politically come from what nowadays calls itself Likewise the exotic Mediterraneanincorrect but highly successful Ladies Who Nagambie Lakes, the region has, for the varietals from the exuberant King ValleyShoot Their Lunch and Are You Game labels, most part, failed to capture the imagination or the attraction of the Brown Brothershas helped put the region’s wines on the map. of contemporary wine drinkers. Put simply Epicurean Centre and Tasting Rooms at modern wine tourism has morphed Milawa further to the northeast are now As did former Plunkett Fowles winemaker, into what the Gen Y and the Millennial must-visit destinations.the talented Sam Plunkett with his sublime generation (21 to 34-year-olds) prefer toThe Rule and The Exception shiraz. call a wine experience, not just traditional Left to right: Mitchelton newly renovated cellar door cellar door sales. and function space. Only an hour-and-a-half drive from Opposite page: Six bottles of Are you Game? wines inMelbourne, this stunningly beautiful area a replica cardboard antique Purdey gun case.dominated by Lake Nagambie and the
HOPEFULLY In contrast, Tahbilk’s romantic, spectacular Ryan’s vision for Mitchelton goes wayNAGAMBIE WILL setting, rich, evocative history, riverside beyond crafting consistently good wine. HeATTRACT FINE restaurant and adjoining wetlands are no is busy extending his upmarket NagambieREGIONAL DINING longer the attraction they once were. As a lakeside caravan park (no doubt populatedAND MORE ARTISAN wine destination Nagambie Lakes fails to hit by Jayco caravans) and is building a stylishFOOD PRODUCERS the mark, despite its proximity to Melbourne. tourist boat which will ferry visitors fromTO COMPLEMENT Lake Nagambie along the Goulburn RiverTHE REGION’S Sadly, the vision of Mitchelton’s founder the to Mitchelton, conveniently via Tahbilk. WhoBETTER WINES. late Ross Schelmedine, the inspiration of the knows? Lycra and cycling paths may pop legendary Colin Preece (of Great Western up everywhere?Left to right: Fowles Wines, Ladies who Shoot fame) and the winemaking acumen andtheir Lunch poster, Fowles Winery, Mitchelton resilience of former Mitchelton winemaker Don As for Mitchelton itself, it’s undergoingcellar door & Tabilk Winery tower. Lewis (now at Tar & Roses) to create a tourist a total transformation from top to toe, mecca has, for a myriad of reasons (including including its iconic 55m high, million-dollar phylloxera and flood) gone unrealised. observation tower, the top of which has been variously described as an inverted That’s history. Of late there’s a growing witch’s hat, an airport control tower and a sense of anticipation and new-found lighthouse, on the flats of the Goulburn River. confidence percolating throughout Nagambie Lakes and adjoining The tower, also once described as regions, especially since businessman, the enigmatic colossus of Mitchelton or thoroughbred horse owner and Green somewhat cheekily by Keith Dunstan as a Edge professional cycling team sponsor submarine’s periscope, is now very much a Gerry Ryan acquired Mitchelton with beacon of hope and harbinger of a brighter the intent of making it a compelling future for the entire region, including the many destination, replete with a planned 58-room smaller vignerons scattered throughout the accommodation and conference facility. Goulburn Valley, the Strathbogie Ranges
and in and around Nagambie Lakes. These Among other things he has built a modern Hopefully Nagambie will attract fineinclude the likes of Sarah Gough’s Box amphitheatre and totally revamped his regional dining and more artisan foodGrove, Goulburn Terrace, David Traeger and food and beverage offering, with the aim of producers to complement the region’sStrathbogie wineries such as Maygars Hill, attracting younger wine drinkers who see wine better wines, of which there are many.Garners, Elgo Estate and Baddaginnie Run. as a part of an overall fun experience rather Supplement this with an enhanced than something confined to the cellar door. accommodation capacity and its future And of course this includes Tahbilk and looks promising.Fowles Wines nearby in the Strathbogie But by far the best aspect of MitcheltonRanges and the Fowles popular and well- is Mitchelton itself - it’s breathtakingly Then add a touch of tradition in the formfrequented cellar door and restaurant on beautiful set amid the vines adjoining the of Tahbilk with its rich history, fine shiraz,the Hume Freeway at Avenel (currently by river that envelope the property. alluring marsanne and wetlands, and voilafar the best place to eat locally). you have a local triumvirate - Mitchelton, Ryan’s vision dovetails in beautifully with Fowles and Tahbilk - who have joined The entrepreneurial and energetic Ryan what Fowles has been doing with their forces to create a regional marketing andwants Mitchelton to become the drawcard funky Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch wines. promotion strategy called Central Victoriathe late Ross Schelmedine intended it to Reviving and taking the recreational hunting - Rivers & Ranges.be. Importantly, Ryan has the financial and fishing theme to urban Australia and toclout and business savvy to do so, in the the US is a masterstroke Fowles is keen to Let’s hope this Central Victoria - Riversexpectation that his vision will inject a new continue capitalising on. & Ranges brand has substance and thatlease of life into the entire region. the region’s smaller wineries can derive Incidentally, Dame Kiri Te Kanawa is a some benefit, or, at the risk of mixing my He may well want to replicate the success keen hunter herself. By a happy confluence metaphors, the Lycra-led Nagambie revivalof Leeuwin Estate and the Yarra Valley’s of events - the timing could not be better risks becoming a three horse race.Rochford Wines by establishing Mitchelton - the Goulburn Valley Hwy now bypassesas a contemporary entertainment centre Nagambie allowing for the creation of a NORTH EAST VICTORIA TASTING STARTS PAGE 102.capable of hosting not only rock bands but more people-friendly, greener town centre-the likes of Dame Kiri Te Kanawa who graced community hub, replete with a statue ofa Twilight at Mitchelton concert in 1990. champion racehorse Black Caviar.
PASSIONATEPrAoBsOeUTcco NORTHERN ITALY’S CENTURIES-LONG LOVE AFFAIR WITH PROSECCO HAS AT LAST GONE GLOBAL. GIORGIO FRAGIACOMO PERCHED ON DRAMATIC WHITE CLIFFS, high above the Adriatic Sea, a stone’s throw from Trieste, in Italy’s most north- eastern corner, Prosecco is an unlikely place to give birth to one of the world’s favourite sparkling wines. Yet a lovely wine has been produced here since Roman times. According to that venerable wine critic, health nut and manic classifier of old, Pliny the Elder, the wine was called pucinum and apparently was much cherished by Livia, the wife of emperor Augustus, whose longevity was attributed to daily consumption of the wine (she died well into her 80s!). The wine’s popularity led to the grape variety, under the various names of prosecco, glera and serprino being planted all the way west to Vicenza in the Veneto. By the Renaissance prosecco, as it was now known, was much appreciated and widely written about. Thanks to the city of Trieste’s long allegiance with Austria and the Hapsburg Empire, the wine was well enjoyed abroad as well. However, it was not until the late 1890s that the technology to make the delicious sparkling wines we know today came about. As opposed to bottle refermentation, perfect for wines like champagne, prosecco is better suited to winemaking that exalts its apple and pear aromas. Ideal is the Martinotti, or Italian method, (aka Charmat method), in which the bubbles come from the wine refermenting in a large pressurised tank with a short stay on its lees. This system was developed in the Asti area of Piedmont, but was rapidly adopted by Antonio Carpene, one of the founding fathers of the ancient and prestigious Scuola Enologica wine school at Conegliano, right in the heart of prosecco territory. The stage was set for success. Opposite: Panorama of Treviso hills.34 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
PRODUCERS AND GOVERNMENT BODIES AGREED ON bring together and upgrade the former IGTA REMARKABLE STRATEGY TO ENSURE THAT PROSECCO areas to DOC status under the umbrellaREMAINED A WINE TIED TO ITS ORIGINAL HOMELAND geographical appellation of Prosecco.AND WELL REGULATED FOR QUANTITY AND QUALITY. This now covers 18,300ha in Veneto and Friuli. Under these rules the wines in the Yet for most of the 20th century prosecco Origine Controllata) geographical Treviso and Trieste area are given sub-was a local phenomenon, popular in the appellation in 1969. The 15 communes zone status, which can be mentioned innorth of Italy and especially in the Veneto of this denomination nestled between the label. A consorzio (growers association)region. Perfect as an aperitivo, prosecco the steep foothills of the Dolomites and was instituted to implement the new rulescould be enjoyed either by itself or mixed the Adriatic Sea, just north of Venice, are for lower yields, quality control (includinginto long drinks such as the Harry’s Bar some of the most dramatic in Italy’s varied a tasting panel) and promotion. Accordingfavourite, the Bellini, (made with prosecco winescape and to this day represent the to the consorzio, 194.6 million bottles ofand peach puree), or the current “it” classic heartland of prosecco. This area prosecco DOC were bottled in 2012, withdrink, Aperol Spritz. To its detriment contains the renowned “cru” of Cartizze, just that increasing to approximately 230 millionordering a “prosecchino” at bars has over one 100ha of incredibly steep slopes, in 2013, this is up from the 141.7 million inbecome synonymous with asking for a light, producing the finest, most expensive grapes 2010, the consorzio’s first year of existence,inexpensive sparkling wine, regardless of that make a signature style wine. Outside reflecting increase in global demand.the provenance. this small area and stretching eastward, prosecco was made and labelled under The historical DOC of Valdobbiadene Later in the first decade of the 21st various less restrictive IGT (Indicazione and Conegliano, a total of 5000ha incentury prosecco would really take off. Geografica Tipica) appellatives. 15 communes, as well as the area around the stunning hilltop town of Germany had always been a huge In 2009 everything changed. In an Asolo, were elevated to the top Europeanconsumer, but it took a long time for the extraordinary series of meetings the quality level with a DOCG classification.Anglo Saxon world to truly embrace the producers and government bodies agreed The “G” stands for “Garantita” literallywine. Perhaps it was the effects of the on a remarkable strategy to ensure that “Guaranteed”, implying even tighterglobal financial crisis and the quest for prosecco remained a wine tied to its original controls on production such as handvalue-for-money wines. Perhaps it was homeland and well regulated for quantity picking, lower yields, local vinificationchanging consumer tastes for a lighter, and quality. The first act was a name and bottling. Some 70 million bottles arefruitier wine without compromising on the change. Europe’s wine system is predicated produced annually. In this appellation soilbubbles. The fact is that prosecco in the on a geographical basis and the grape types, expositions and local characterUS and the UK has been living a boom. variety name is of secondary importance. are greatly prized, with single vineyardSales are increasing in double digits year Therefore, relying on the name “prosecco” Prosecco Superiore quite common.on year for at least the last five years in both i.e. the name of a grape, for recognition, wasthe on and off premise sector. Unfortunately placing all your eggs in a very unprotected The consorzios along with the Scuolasuch success comes at a price, with cheap basket! The effects of the sad tale of Tocai Enologica of Conegliano and a numberimitations undermining quality and image. Friulano are still acutely felt locally. So as of research institutes and universityProseccos from Brazil, prosecco on tap the little village of Prosecco gave its name to departments, also based at Conegliano,and the notorious Austrian prosecco in a both the local grape variety and the wine, it have been striving for a prosecco ofcan, made famous by featuring a scantily was decided to call the wine after the place ever-higher quality levels and cohesiveclad Paris Hilton in its adverts, was about all and to change the name of the grape. marketing strategies. Initiatives range fromthe eastern Italians could take. Something viticultural research, education, marketneeded to be done. The latter of which was changed to research, communication and promotion “glera”, the local name used by villagers all the way to fighting counterfeits and Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene for centuries. The second move was to imitations, trademark and intellectualobtained its DOC (Denominazione di property tutelage. So whether it is called the mouth-filling Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Asolo Prosecco DOCG or Prosecco DOC, the future for this delectable, easy-to-drink, food-friendly wine looks sparkling. CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING TASTING STARTS PAGE 76.36 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
CHALLENGE THE RESURGENCE IN RIESLING’S POPULARITY CONTINUES TO GROW, IN PART DUE TO THE CANBERRAINTERNATIONAL RIESLING CHALLENGE. NIGEL HOPKINSCANBERRA WINEMAKER KEN HELM By the late 1990s riesling was seriously on theis probably in the best position of anyone in Australia nose with many consumers - indeed, demand forto talk about riesling - and with 483 entries from riesling had been in decline worldwide since theseven countries in this year’s Canberra International mid-seventies with the advent of the chardonnayRiesling Challenge, he’s about to learn even more. generation. Prices were low for even the bestNow regarded as the most prestigious - and rieslings - which suited many consumers butlargest - event of its certainly not winetype in the southern makers or growers.hemisphere, the Ironically, from Helm’s point of view,C h a l l e n g e w a s We sell our rieslings far this was a goodfounded by Helm too cheaply - they should thing: “It meant thatin 1999 with theinaugural event held be up there in price with mediocre rieslingin October 2000 with vineyards were pulled137 entries. premium chardonnay. out,” he says. “We That Helm is such a now have a wonderfulpassionate advocate history of great oldof the riesling grape riesling vines, whichis hardly a surprise. show their place ofThe fourth-generation descendant of German origin like no other wine. These wines are madevinedressers from the Rhineland, who established in the vineyard.”vineyards near Albury and Rutherglen in the Helm says that by the late 1990s a number of1860s, Helm and his wife, Judith, first planted winemakers were lobbying politicians seekingriesling at their Murrumbateman vineyard 40 years a tightening of regulations regarding labelago at a time when many in the wine business integrity, while he attempted - unsuccessfully -seriously questioned their wisdom. to get a special category for riesling acceptedHelm, who had been a CSIRO biologist, not only in national wine shows.set out to make very good riesling himself, he also “It wasn’t until the manager of the Hyatt Hotelwanted to improve the reputation of a wine variety Canberra showed interest and we persuadedthat had become tarnished with wines made from Qantas to provide two return tickets to Germanygrapes such as sultana, crouchen or semillon as the main prize that we managed to get theoften labelled generically as riesling. Challenge off the ground,” Helm says.38 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
WHO MAKESTHE FINEST RIESLING?YOU’D think that someone who has travelled the world ofriesling for 40 years would by now have found a standoutwine, one fit for a last supper, but Helm finds that difficult.He says he’s simply glad that on any restaurant wine list,riesling is always at the top of the page and he automaticallyorders a glass first up. But looking around Australia, he doessee riesling winemakers and wineries heespecially admires such as Louisa Rose atYalumba, the white winemakers at Orlandoand Andrew Wigan just down the road at PeterLehmann Wines. In Western Australia he points to the GreatSouthern region and wineries such as WestCape Howe and Franklin Estate, Bay of Firesand Stefano Lubiana in Tasmania, regions suchas Clare and the Eden Valley in South Australia,Hentey in Victoria - and, not surprisingly,Canberra “which has now come into its own”. With so many regions, winemakers anddifferent styles of riesling to choose from, Helmsimply says he loves them all. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 39
THE WOLF BLASS AWARD Don Young, senior white winemaker at Orlando Wines, Anna Pooley, winemakerTHE most prestigious award made during the Canberra International Riesling at Pooley Wines Tasmania and KerriChallenge is undoubtedly the Wolf Blass Award. Thompson, director/ winemaker at Wines by KT in South Australia. Although one of Blass’s best mates, Guenter Prass, won the awardthe first time it was presented in 2003, Wolf could hardly present the “The Riesling Challenge has alwaysaward to himself, even though his winemaking and marketing genius prided itself on its ability to attract first-had driven a surge of interest in riesling in the late 1990s. class judges,” Helm says. “Having three international judges again this year is But the list of winners covers a most illustrious field of winemakers whose indicative of our success in positioningnames are now synonymous with Australia’s finest rieslings: Peter Lehmann ourselves as leaders in the industry. The(2004), Brian Barry and Wendy Stuckey (2005), Ken Helm (2006), John Europeans see Australia as an importantVickery (2007), Louisa Rose (2008), Andrew Hood (2009), Jeffrey Grossett part of the riesling world,” adds Helm,(2010), David O’Leary and Nick Walker (2011) and in 2012 Brian Croser. who travels to Germany every two years to judge at a similar riesling competition And for the record, in last year’s Challenge the award for Australia’s Best to the Canberra event. “The Germans areDry Riesling went to the 2011 Richmond Grove Watervale Riesling which the biggest riesling producers, with aboutretails for around $20 - easily proving Helm’s point about quality not being 22,000ha, Australia comes second withreflected in price. just under 4000ha, followed by Alsace and the US.” The annual Hyatt National Riesling Challenge and has since attracted increasingChallenge, supported by local businessmen numbers of wines from the riesling producers It puts Helm in a position where heand the ACT Government, was finally across the world. can observe changing trends in rieslinglaunched at the 1999 Murrumbateman Cool across a range of styles. Importantly, heClimate Wine Show. The following year Judging on a regional level, which sees German producers moving awaylegislation was introduced that guaranteed showcased the individual characteristics from the sweeter styles made famous bylabel integrity for riesling wines which, unique to the wine’s location in the world, brands such as Blue Nun, Black Towercombined with the now universal adoption was introduced in 2008 and the following and Liebfraumilch to the trocken or dryof screwcap closures, has enabled riesling year saw the introduction of associate style favoured in Australia. At the sameto regain its global reputation as one of judges to train them in the appreciation of time he sees more Australian winemakers,Australia’s iconic wines. world rieslings. including himself and producers such as Yalumba, Orlando and Grosset, introducing “I asked Wolf Blass if he’d be our first “After 13 years we’re now much more more halbtrocken, or semi sweet rieslingchairman of judges,” Helm says. “He just said than just a wine show,” Helm says, pointing with residual sugar levels of 15g/litre which‘good idea, Cookie’, and promptly accepted.” to the series of master classes and are proving popular with younger drinkers seminars, as well as a massive public and to accompany Asian food. Blass, as passionate about riesling as tasting sponsored by Riedel that featuredHelm, remained chairman for six years until in this year’s Challenge. “There’s no doubt that riesling is gaininghe was replaced by Helm, introduced the in popularity again in Australia,” Helm says.Wolf Blass Award, became a major sponsor Helm says he was especially pleased “My biggest bugbear is that their qualityand is now the International Ambassador that this year France had joined is not reflected in their price. We sell ourfor the Challenge. Australia, Germany, New Zealand, the rieslings far too cheaply - they should be US, Canada and South Africa in entering up there in price with premium chardonnay. In 2002 entries were sought from New wines in the Challenge.Zealand, and in 2003 the Wolf Blass Award was “Australia should not follow what theincluded to recognise a person or organisation And with a focus this year on the wines of rest of the world does. We should be inthat has made a major contribution to the Alsace, it was especially appropriate that a position to reintroduce and be the firstdevelopment and promotion of riesling. In the three international judges included, new world wine country to put riesling2004 the then German Ambassador, Dr Klaus for the first time, one from France - back into all world export markets andPeter Klaiber, offered a perpetual trophy Alsace-based wine manager and judge domestic markets. It is the resurgence offor the Best German Wine and organised a Valerie Dirringer, along with US-based a new, sophisticated, classy, austere 21stcomparative tasting of 21 German wines. wine writer Dan Berger and Alexander century Australian phenomenon - andThis was so successful that in 2005 the event Kohnen, Germany’s International Wine the challenge for our young generationbecame the Canberra International Riesling Institute managing director. Australian of winemakers and marketing gurus is to members on the judging panel are utilise their respective expertise to get the best from the great vintages.”40 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
Stomping to SuccessTHE GARTELMANNS MIGHTHAVE BEEN LATE STARTERS INTHE WINE BUSINESS BUT THEYHAVE QUICKLY CAUGHT UP.RICK ALLEN
The sign behind the counter Their operation has now grown to about I would also like to see at Gartelmann wines 8500 cases annually, incorporating 17reads: “Men are like fine wine. They start wines. This growth has been a collaboration the introduction of aout like grapes and it’s our job to stomp between Jorg and the winemaking teamon them in the dark until they mature into at First Creek, and chief winemaker Liz people’s choice in winesomething you’d like to have dinner with”. Jackson in particular, who has been responsible for making Gartelmann wines shows, like they do with Jan Gartelmann acknowledges that she since 2008. “When we first worked togetherdidn’t write it and wouldn’t confirm if it Liz was forthright: she said very clearly that the Archibald prize.applies to her husband Jorg, but whatever she was the boss,” Jorg said. “I told her thatstomping was required in their household I’m outspoken and will speak my mind, but outstanding new semillon fruit which I thinkseems to have done the trick. Since the that’s not to say I don’t want you to argue is every bit as good as the fruit I use forcouple started Gartelmann Wines in the back. Now there’s a mutual respect. She my Benjamin, but still want to work on myHunter Valley in 1996 - first vintage 1998 listens to what I say, and makes wines in Diedrich Shiraz. It’s good now, but I think- they have been the heart and soul of the style I like. And she makes them very it can be even better.”an operation that continues to grow and well. I know if I can get good fruit to her,produce wines of undeniable quality. then she’ll give me the best possible wine.” The problem for that of course, is that they’re a canny bunch the Hunter But they’re adamant that even better So what is the Gartelmann style? “I don’t winemakers. Almost invariably the bestwines are around the corner. make any wine that I don’t enjoy drinking,” shiraz fruit has already been snapped up. he said. “I get headaches from red wines So for Jorg, the search continues. Jorg was no spring chicken when he made with too much tannin, so all my wines havethe transition from producing computer fine tannins, be immediately drinking and His other bugbear is the awards systemsoftware to getting into the wine game. He was with good balance.” for wines. “I make no secret of the fact I’d55 when he and Jan bought the Gartelmann like to be more successful in the Huntervineyard on the Lovedale side of the valley, First Creek managing director Greg Valley Wine Show, but for some reasonand they put in a lot of back-breaking work Silkman acknowledges Jorg is no shrinking I seem to do a lot better in wine showsbringing the vines up to scratch. violet, but in many ways that makes their outside the Hunter,” he said. “I would also job easier. like to see the introduction of a people’s For a man who had had a heart bypass choice in wine shows, like they do with thein 1994 and was advised to take the stress “It’s probably better to have someone like Archibald Prize. After all, we make wines forout of his life, it wasn’t the easiest road to Jorg who has strong views on what he’s people to drink. There’s no greater pleasuretravel - some might even say foolhardy. But after in a wine than someone who doesn’t than working at the cellar door and seeingthat’s Jorg Gartelmann, as headstrong as really know,” he said. people really enjoy your wines. I love thathe is passionate. more than anything.” ”He’s pedantic about getting the best fruit “When we were buying a vineyard David he can and then he wants a wine that’s all Well, perhaps with the exception ofLowe was my mentor,” Jorg said, referring about balance ... wines that can be drunk Gartelmann Parade, the road he namedto the Mudgee winemaker who, for many immediately, but still age well.” after himself that leads from the road toyears, plied his trade in the Hunter. “He his cellar door. “I was in the Barossa andasked me what I was looking for and I said The search for the best fruit has seen him saw these roads that carried the name ofI want to make the equivalent of Grange in roam outside the valley to buy some old wineries - like Seppelts Rd for example -the Hunter. And that’s still what I’m aiming vines shiraz fruit from Mudgee (a bigger, and thought it would be nice if someonefor.” It’s fair to say that Grange isn’t exactly richer style than his Hunter shiraz), and named a road after me,” he explained.threatened by Gartelmann’s top shiraz - the cabernet from a vineyard at Rylstone, anDiedrich - just yet, but it’s also fair to say hour south of Mudgee (cool climate at “But I’m 72 and can hardly wait around …that the Gartelmann range is strong right 630m altitude). Jorg also has high hopes so I thought I’d better get in quick and do itacross the board, with a “house style” that for a Rylstone petit verdot he’s producing myself,” he said, as he broke into a laugh.screams balance and easy drinking. which has (you guessed it) surprisingly fine tannins. Opposite: Jorg and Jan Gartelmann. This consistency of quality has beennoticed in the wine world and the There’s still a couple of bugbears for Jorg, HUNTER VALLEY TASTING STARTS PAGE 96.Gartelmann wines regularly rate well in despite his obvious success.Winestate tastings - their 2009 BenjaminSemillon won the Winestate trophy for best “I still want to get better fruit for mySemillon in 2012, and their 2010 Benjamin Diedrich Shiraz,” he says. “I’m totallyhas been invited to part of the taste-off for committed to the vineyards I have, andthis year’s Semillon of the Year trophy. I have a lot of loyalty and goodwill with the growers. I’ve recently sourced some November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 43
TakofiBnUgSINCESaS re ADAM JARVISIN THESE DAYS of shameless returned home in 2009 to fulfil a long-held and plaudits from just about everyone. But it ambition to work with his father. is the other varietals which may raise someself-promotion, especially in the wine eyebrows, especially their Wrattonbullyindustry, it’s nice to occasionally meet The two worked side-by-side for three Riesling, which has consistently achievedsomeone who just quietly gets on with what years, experience that Luke considers to high ratings from the critics and gongs inthey are good at and lets the results speak be invaluable in many ways. As he puts wine shows. Who would ever have thoughtfor themselves. it: “It’s fortunate that we had some time to to see the word “Wrattonbully” in the top make wine together, and also that I came results from the Canberra International Patrick of Coonawarra winemaker Luke back when I did...it’s probably the best Riesling Challenge? Again, this was one ofTocaciu is one such person, as was his late experience that I’ve had, whether I knew Pat’s favourite projects, “…going againstfather Pat, affectionately known as “Tocca” I was learning from it or not - hands on the grain”, as he put it. Similarly, Luketo his mates. experience with someone who’s had 40 has produced a pinot noir from vineyards years’ experience in the industry”. near Mount Gambier, his own pet project. Patrick Tocaciu was born in Mount You would be wise to watch this space.Gambier, studied winemaking at Like any partnership it wasn’t alwaysRoseworthy and then had a fairly stellar smooth sailing, with Luke’s more modern Luke is also especially proud of theAussie Rules career at SANFL club North and scientific approach to winemaking relatively new Mother of Pearl range, whichAdelaide. He was awarded the league’s sometimes at odds with Pat’s traditional has achieved great results in the highlybest and fairest trophy in his first season. take on things. He recalls: “I’d be asking competitive under $20 retail category, andIt was through the club that he found an Dad all the time ‘Why are you doing this?’ is also doing well in the restaurant trade.opportunity to work in the Barossa. He then or ‘What are you doing that for?’ and He attributes this mainly to the successwent on to kick plenty of goals in the wine more often than not the answer would be of the sparkling pinot chardonnay, whichindustry, with a career spanning almost ‘Because that’s what I’ve always done beat some fairly heavy hitters in its classfour decades, including stints as chief and it works’.” But he also admits that his in Winestate’s Wine of the Year Awards inwinemaker at Tollana and senior winemaker father’s approach had some merit saying: “I 2011, being judged as Australia’s best entry.at Penfolds, among others. had a very scientific background and look at the wines from that perspective, where However, like his father, Luke is true to But his heart remained in the South East, Dad had a very hands-on approach and the family’s vision of wine being much moreand so in 2004 he took the plunge and would be able to tell me what to do just by than just a commodity or a brand. As heestablished Patrick T Wines (now Patrick tasting it. It was a great partnership. There puts it: “It’s not just a brand, it’s everythingof Coonawarra) at Penola. This had always are fundamentals from a scientific point of I’m about. All that hard work in the vineyardbeen his vision. “It’s always a winemaker’s view, but nothing beats experience”. throughout the year, which then comesdream to complete the story - to grow, make down to fruit selection and then guidingand sell your own produce,” he once said. Whatever their differences, the results it through the winemaking process, allSadly, Pat passed away in February this year, speak for themselves. As one would expect, the way into bottle. Then on the other endleaving Luke to take the reins much sooner their flagship cabernets have won awards of that, selling it - it’s the full circle”. Histhan he would have preferred. However, this father termed this as “personality meetsquiet and thoughtful young bloke hasn’t had region”, something that bigger players intoo much time to dwell on the past - he’s been the industry could only ever wish for.busy taking care of business. Spending some time chatting to this Luke graduated with a degree in young man, it’s very evident that alongOenology from the University of Adelaide with his mother Jenny keeping an eyein 2007 and took the road travelled by many on things from the cellar door, this familyyoung winemakers, gaining experience in business is in very capable hands. Thethe Clare Valley, the Barossa, Coonawarra other thing that seems certain is that weand also in the Sonoma Valley in the US, will be hearing a lot more about the wineswhich he describes as: “A rock star industry from Patrick of Coonawarra.over there in terms of the money investedand commanded for the wines”. Somewhat LIMESTONE COAST TASTING STARTS PAGE 88.serendipitously though, Luke eschewedthe travelling winemaker’s lifestyle and44 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
DAD HAD AVERY HANDS-ONAPPROACH ANDWOULD BE ABLETO TELL ME WHATTO DO JUST BYTASTING IT.
adelaidegrapevineNIGEL HOPKINSWhen Andre Ursini opened his restaurant with sticky balsamic served with crunchy but with a contemporary feel to it. It’s notthere were many who assumed his menu potatoes. And then there are desserts, the only place in town to offer all-day yumwould be all about polenta. How wrong they with some of the best pasticcini (sweet cha, but it is unique in its focus on a widewere. Ursini, who hates being identified pastries) you’re likely to find in any Adelaide range of teas especially imported from aas a finalist in a well-known television restaurant. Order the best bottle of red Shanghai teahouse and, they claim, thecooking show, would rather be known for wine you can afford and settle down to an only place in Australia to offer a complexdishes such as his hand-rolled cavatelli extraordinary feast that reflects Ursini’s traditional tea ceremony in which each teaserved with house-cured pancetta, cavolo enormous passion for northern Italian is matched with appropriate food. Here thenero, broccoli, garlic and chilli - typical cooking. Open lunch Tuesday-Saturday, Shanghai-style yum cha is more steamedof the good, old-fashioned Italian classic dinner Monday-Saturday. 94 Frome St, and pan fried, rather than traditionaldishes that sometimes, not always, include Adelaide; phone (08) 8224 0004. Cantonese style which is more deep fried,polenta. The cavatelli, by the way, was with popular dishes including steamedrecently named as one of the 10 best pasta One of the most keenly awaited openings scallop dumplings, prawn and corianderdishes in Australia. Three years after it in Adelaide is chef Jordan Theodorous’ dumplings and small soup pork bun,opened, Andre’s Cucina (the Polenta Bar new restaurant, Peel Street, located, not along with pan fried Huangqiao sesamebit seems now to be an optional addition surprising in the laneway of that name pancake and shallot pancakes. Open allto the name), is packed most nights, often off Hindley St. It’s a precinct rapidly day Monday-Sunday, dinner Thursday-noisy with enthusiastic customers and becoming known as ”bar central” as Saturday. Shop 108 Burnside Village;putting on a food show that has made it one smart new bars take advantage of South phone (08) 7200 3063.of Adelaide’s most in-demand restaurants. Australia’s revised licensing laws. WhileTo get the best of what’s available on the most of the new bars have some smart Re-opening of the year: Magill Estateday you have to look beyond the printed food offerings such as nearby Udaberri restaurant under new executive chefmenu to the extensive wall-mounted with terrific Basque tapas, none has Scott Huggins, after a two-year closure“consigli” menu where the real seasonal the food credentials of Theodorous, an for extensive interior remodeling. Thetreasures will most likely be found, but if incredibly talented and versatile chef who new look Magill Estate features interioryou’ve starved for a day and are up to a has headed up some incredibly delicious design by Pascal Gomes-McNabb, a chef restaurants, most recent being Aquacaf fresh from a stint at Nihonryori Ryuginfull-on treat then the chef’s choice Menu at the coastal town of Goolwa. Equally at in Tokyo - rated 22 in the current SanFisso is the way to go. It’s also great value home cooking Asian or Middle Eastern Pellegrino World’s Top 50 Restaurants,for money at $59 for four-five courses. You food, at Peel Street he’s taken inspiration and the core team assembled by themight start with meltingly tender fillet beef from the cooking of London-based chef previous executive chef Jock Zonfrillo.carpaccio, followed by crisp, chunky white Yotam Ottolenghi, whose books will be Degustation menus only, starting at $135polenta chips with a tomato salsa, then a familiar to many. It’s full-flavored, gutsy, for five courses without wine and peakingcast iron dish of baked smoked scamorza simple cooking driven by the seasons - it at $435 for eight courses with wine -with green olives and crisp bread to mop looks casual, just like the atmosphere at starting with Krug and including Grangeit up. That’s just the beginning, for it could Peel Street, but food that tastes this good and Great Grandfather Port. Open lunchbe followed by oversized gnocchi stuffed doesn’t come easily. Peel Street has a Sunday, dinner Wednesday - Saturday.with pigeon ragout - a truly stunning dish, pared back, semi-industrial style, with Magill Estate, 78 Penfold Rd, Magill;baked wallaby ragout on a polenta base, exposed beams and brick walls, and a phone (08) 8301 5551.and sliced oyster blade steak drizzled long polished concrete bar where daily lunchtime “on the concrete” specials are Left: Shanghai Teahouse. Right: Peel Street interior. displayed at room temperature, such as nettle and cheddar frittata or southern fried chicken with lemon mayo. A blackboard menu has dishes such as chermoula baked snapper with Greek braised celery and potatoes, or orechiette with cuttlefish, peas, cavolo nero and speck. Open breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday; dinner Thursday - Saturday. 9 Peel St, Adelaide; phone (08) 8231 8887. Interesting developments out of the city include the opening of the Shanghai Teahouse at Burnside Village, modeled on a traditional Shanghai-style teahouse48 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
twelve hour stewed beef rib Served with 2010 Woodstock ‘Pilots View’ Shiraz We understand the importance of pairing authentic Chinese cuisine with the right wine. We are proud of our quality and use only the freshest local produce. Our dishes are full of flavour and promote healthy living because they are low in oil and contain no MSG. Conveniently located in the Adelaide CBD and open 7 days a week, please call +61 8 8232 4020 or visit our website to make a reservation. MeNtioN this Ad wheN You diNe ANd reCeive A CoMPliMeNtArY glAss of wiNe or Chefs ChoiCe of eNtree Winner “Best Chinese Restaurant of the Year 2012” Restaurant and Catering SA Awards for Excellence Winner “Best Chinese Restaurant” The Advertiser Food Awards 2012 www.fromorient.com.au
perthgrapevineROD PROPERJOHNTHE Conti family began winemaking and oily mix ($24). These are quality juicy capers and basil ($22) and san marzanoin Woodvale, 20km north of Perth, in prawns sympathetically cooked to a slight tomato, mozzarella, sausage, kale and1948, along with growing vegetables for crunch with penetrating, not overpowering, garlic oil ($20). The “Wood Grilled Things”the city market. Carmelo Conti was the garlic flavour. A great starter. The Conti offer occy, potatoes ’n’ olives ($18), blackinitial driving force and he built a steady carpetbag ($39) is difficult to ignore. sausage ’n’ pickled quince ($14) and flatbusiness, especially supplying wine in Carpetbag steak was arguably the first of iron quail ’n’ fennel ($17). “Things from thedemijohns and flagons to the southern the “surf and turf” combos to make it on Kitchen” suggest a pork ’n’ pistachio slabEuropean migrants in the region. His son, to an Australian menu. At Conti’s, a beef ($13), pigs head with witlof ($14) and cos,Paul, took over in 1968 and today, Paul’s fillet steak is stuffed with a couple of fresh pancetta, crispy skin chicken, anchovy ‘n’son, Jason, dons the gumboots in the oysters, wrapped in bacon, topped with egg salad ($17). This is the diverse andPaul Conti winery while dad tends the prawns and grilled to medium rare, and well-priced stuff that is attracting youngvines on the sandy coastal soils. There are then covered with a reduction of beef jus, punters and they arrive in hordes. The placestill a few vines on the home property but mushrooms and onions. There’s a bit too is licensed, with a drinks list that is modest, yet appropriate. Open seven nights. 448 Beaufort St, Highgate; phone 0499 448 000. THE Court Wine Bar and Cellar Restaurant at 84 Beaufort St, Perth, is sadly up for sale. The restaurant unashamedly served Macedonian and traditional Australian dishes for decades, and was famous for the amount of red wine consumed over lunch. A blokey place, it was invariably full of wine reps and scribes, stockbrokers, lawyers, real estate agents and also police and unionists who had offices close by. It was a weird juxtapositionmore substantial Conti vineyards are to be much going on in this dish for me, but I of politics and socio-economics, wherefound north of the Wanneroo township and guess 40 years ago it was a matter of “more the common theme was a love of coldnow the family is developing a vineyard is better”. I enjoy a simple crispy duck beer and good wine, especially red.at Margaret River and enjoyed its first breast served with a cherry sauce ($37). Phil Andronovski laments that the nextvintage this year. They converted their The sweet and sour sauce is a great foil generation isn’t taking the reins after hisold homestead on the Woodvale property for the thinly sliced duck, and if the bird father started the business in 1953. Philinto Conti’s Restaurant and we settle in had been taken off the heat earlier, it would has spent most of his time at the stoves,here for dinner. It’s like parachuting back have retained a moist and pink rareness banging the pans, a tiring job and he isinto the 1970s to old-world charm and to and been more appealing. Pleasant dish looking forward to resting his generousgarlic prawns, grilled rainbow trout, deep- nonetheless. The mains are served with and slightly-worn frame in a more relaxingfried camembert and carpetbag steak on crunchy roast potato and veg at $4.50. pastime. Phone (08) 9227 1200.the menu. There are about 30 diners here We finish by sharing a couple of desserts,on a cold Tuesday evening, so nostalgia the patisserie of the day, an apple and Above: Conti’s interior and entrance.hasn’t lost its popularity altogether. We blueberry pie and a brandy snap basketare with our second son and his wife, who filled with mascarpone and topped withare both Gen X designers and who eat blueberries, a very reasonable $12.50out regularly, mainly in trendy and noisy each. The range of excellent Paul Conticlose-to-the-city places and they say it’s wines is available by the glass or bottle andrefreshing to choose from an array of at very reasonable prices. 529 Wannerooretro dishes in a quiet and comfortable Rd, Woodvale; phone (08) 9409 1516.homestead setting. We are in a smallroom with high ceilings and sentimental IT does serve pizza, but there are far morehomely fixtures, it’s intimate and relaxing, interesting things on the menu at Ace Pizza.and we begin with garlic king prawns It’s a new joint (previously Barolo) on thewhich arrive in a small bowl, swimming, Highgate/Mount Lawley strip and the ninenot sizzling, in a hot spring onion, garlic or 10 pizzas served here are a little different than most and include prawn, lemon, garlic,50 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013
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