Winestate Magazine July August 2011

wine investment & collectingplace from May 1 and, while the website good clearances and prices paid for The Penfolds category was big in April,address is still the same (www.oddbins. Grange, Penfolds Special Bin wines and with clearances slightly above average.com.au), the site has a completely new look Henschke Hill of Grace.” Despite good sales of all the key vintagesand wider functionality. on Oddbins’ Good Grange Index, a minor April’s auction also saw the return of decline in the price paid for 1990 Grange “It’s exciting and interesting times at buyers to the once-maligned category saw the index stay steady at 129 points.Oddbins, as we change some of the of ‘cult’ wines, with Chris Ringland Buyers were keen on most of the Binmore essential elements of our wine Shiraz, Torbreck RunRig, Greenock Creek series, along with St Henri and theauction business – but, rest assured, our Roennfeldt Road and Wild Duck Estate’s obscure Bin 138.staff, our approach to customers, service Duck Muck all clearing well. Two bottleslevels and the style of our business of 1995 Roennfeldt Road Barossa Valley “I note with interest the increasingremains unchanged,” says Graham Wright, Shiraz fetched $350, and $300 was amount of aged Koonunga Hill comingOddbins’ auctioneer and valuer. paid for a 2000 Wild Duck Creek Estate to auction,” says Graham. “While it Duck Muck Heathcote Shiraz Cabernet. was once seen as a budget, drink-now For a small auction house, Oddbins’ April Other good premium clearances included Penfolds style, it now appears manyauction was huge. Normally, Oddbins’ lot Best’s flagship Thompson Family Shiraz, collectors have been squirrelling themsizes are around the 2500 mark but April Cullen Diana Madeline from the early away for future consumption and sale.”saw over 4100 lots on offer, comprising 2000s, 2003 and ’04 Clonakilla Shirazmainly Australian table wines with a Viognier, Glaetzer Amon-Ra - especially While a big selection of budget winessmattering of very tasty importeds. from 2004 and ’07 (a wine which appears were slow to clear, clearances of mid- to be holding its own in the auction priced wines were also noteworthy. “With such a huge catalogue, it’s not market) - ’05 and ’07 Leeuwin Art Series Wines such as Best’s Bin 0 (rarelysurprising the clearance rate fell,” says Chardonnay and a large swag of lots from seen in quantity at Oddbins), MeltonGraham. “While this could be blamed the famed vintages of the 1990s and Nine Popes (from 2000 and ’02),on a combination of world economic/ 2000s, including Rockford Basket Press. Dutschke St Jacobi, Jasper Hillenvironmental factors, a big Christmas Georgia’s Paddock, Kalleske Greenockhangover and reports of a slight chill The craze for Bin 707 continued in Shiraz (from 2002 through ’07) andgoing through the Australian retail April, a trend which now covers both Schubert Estate’s Goose-yard Blockmarketplace, it could also be a fact that the bottle and magnum sizes. Where Shiraz (from 2002 and ’04) all attractedthe catalogue was just too big and buyer 12 months ago supply was good for this good buyer interest.reading fatigue set in. Now, before our cabernet, it’s now extremely tight. Ifvendors start to get gloomy, in terms the recently completed Barossa Valley Other surprises at the April auctionof turnover it was our best result in Vintage Festival Auction is any indication included renewed interest in Parker12 months. The key factor behind of the market’s mood, then St Henri may Estate First Growth Cabernetsthis success was the return of buyers be the next cab off the rank. (especially from the key vintages of theto the super-premium market - with 1990s), renewed demand for Lindeman AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 101

wine investment & collectingCoonawarra Trio (this time from the of 2003 Chateau Lafite Rothschild $235, the 2003 Chateau Leoville Poyferre1980s) and the return of buyers to 1er Cru Pauillac topped the list of at $225, the 2002 Chateau Palmer atMajella Cabernet, once again from the hammer prices paid across this section, $220 and a 2000 Chateau Leoville Barton,1990s and early 2000s. fetching $950. Others in this Top 10 list which exceeded expectations at $205. included a bottle of 1990 Gaja Sori San Australian fortified wines seem to Lorenzo Barbaresco at $470 and a 1990 As reported in the previous issue,have hit a slow patch but, as with most Chateauneuf du Pape Pignan Reserve Burgundies are another matter andwines going to auction, the condition of Chateau Rayas at $350. are still not selling well. Obviously thethe lots on offer appears to be a primary region remains popular, but few winesconcern of buyers. The only highlight For further information visit www. attract serious interest, and few of thesefrom this category in April was the good oddbins.com.au. were put forward through March andclearance of Chateau Reynella Vintage April. One exception was an offeringPort from 1975 through to ’78. With LIQUID ASSET FINE WINE AUCTIONS of 1989 Domaine Comte Georges deimported wines, vintage champagne and (MARCH/APRIL REPORT) Vogue Musigny Vieilles Vignes GrandCote Rotie from the Rhone Valley caught Since the Christchurch earthquake on Cru, which went for $475 a bottle.the attention of Oddbins’ buyers in April, February 22 and subsequent events in Fortunately, Rhone continues its dramaticwhile Robert Parker’s perfectly pointed Japan, the fine and rare wine market has rise in popularity, which has been noted2003 Chateau Lafite achieved a hammer been fairly subdued, with buyers keeping by Liquid Asset Fine Wine Auctionsprice of $950 per bottle. their money in their pockets. While it for the past six months. It seems the has hardly been a time for celebration, redoubtable Mr Parker is having a lasting Topping Oddbins’ Top 10 list of hammer there are signs the market is beginning effect on demand. All Chateauneuf duprices paid for Australian wine was to move again. Pape sells well - exemplified by thea bottle of 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A impressive performance of the 2001 andCoonawarra Cabernet Kalimna Shiraz Certainly New Zealand is a buyers’ 2003 Domaine Du Pegau Chateauneuf duat $1460. With its 50th anniversary market at present. Despite this, top- Pape Cuvee Reservee, both selling at overcoming up next year and a lack of supply end French wines in general sold well, $140 a bottle. The 2003 Clos des Papesof this important Australian wine, it’s with the leading clarets performing Chateauneuf also topped the $100 mark.not surprising that - even in less than best. Some 2002 Chateau Latour went There were plenty of bidders for someperfect condition - this wine can still for $700 a bottle, a 2003 Chateau Haut 1998 Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde fromcommand good prices. Its daughter, Brion reached reserve at $625 and Cos E. Guigal, which also went past $100.the 2004, is starting to catch up, with d’Estournel remains popular, with both Interest in Italian wine remains high,a boxed magnum of Penfolds Bin 60A the ’95 and ’96 fetching $260. Other although there was less on offer throughCoonawarra Cabernet Barossa Valley Bordeaux to perform well included the March and April. The star was certainlyShiraz selling for $1000. 1990 Vieux Chateau Certan at $235, the some 1997 Sperss Barolo from Gaja at 2001 and 1998 Les Forts de Latour at On the imported front, a bottle102 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

wine investment & collecting$490. Also of note were two bottles of GRAYSONLINE Vintages available ranged from 1964 to1994 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia which (MARCH/APRIL REPORT) 1996. Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz provedsold for $155 each. If there is one overriding message about it was still a favourite among auction online wine sales for March and April, it is, buyers, with two bottles of 1999 going for Australian wine sales have been steady, as the old adage goes, ‘all about quality, not an average of $169. Another favourite waswith Penfolds Grange, as ever, at the quantity’. A review of auction results from the Wolf Blass Black Label Cabernet Shiraz,forefront. There always seem to be GraysOnline shows that, while there was which continued to show strong demand,vendors ready to sell this wine. Through a small decrease in the amount of stock with vintages ranging from 1979 to 1993this period we saw $430 for some 1999 available during this period, the quality really selling for an average of $96.Grange but this was exceeded by the began to shine through. In particular, French$475 paid for 1986 Henschke Hill of wine sales in March unearthed gems such The March-April period also showed aGrace. Some fun was had with three as a single bottle of 1986 Chateau Lafite strong trend in sales of ports. Among thevintages of Barossa Valley Estate E&E Rothschild 1er Cru Bordeaux, which sold age-worthy contenders was a bottle ofBlack Pepper Shiraz - 1996 to ’98. All for $1854, and a bottle of 1945 Chateau 1945 Penfolds Bin S6 Grandfather Portthree sold at over $140 a bottle. Much Beauregard Cru Pomerol, which cleared at which sold for $239 and a bottle of 1947the same price was achieved for 2001 $304. Another classic Bordeaux drop, a 2000 Hardy’s Reserve Bin C336 Port whichd’Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz and a little Domaine De L`Eglise Pomerol, was one of a fetched $134 - though both these wereless for the 2002 version. The 2000 Jim handful of wines which sold for $194. probably outdone by the sale of a 50mlBarry The Armagh also sold in the same miniature 1885 Seppelt Para Liqueur Port,price bracket. Of course, it wasn’t all about the French which sold for a remarkable $254. - or solely wine, for that matter. There was New Zealand wines still maintain good also a great deal of interest in a number of GraysOnline customers also tookclearance rates but there are, as yet, limited edition collectibles from Australia’s advantage of the favourable retail conditionsfew which reach the higher price levels own Bundaberg. A bottle of Bundy’s Gold through March and April to pick up someattained elsewhere. It was interesting Limited Edition Decanter Rum sold for $1324 great deals among the well-cellared, ready-to see the demand for 2002 Trinity Hill and a bottle of Bundaberg Centenary - Vat to-drink drops from producers includingHomage Syrah which, at $125, outsold 100 1885-1995 Rum fetched $1229 - more Penfolds, Katnook, Taylors and Orlandothe perhaps more established 2002, ’03, than three times the estimated auction high. - many going for under $50 a bottle. These’04 and ’07 Stonyridge Larose and the sorts of wines are very much in their prime’02 and ’03 Te Mata Coleraine - which There was also the usual high degree and ideal additions to any dinner table.all sold in the $85-$95 bracket. of interest in Penfolds Grange, which continued to show its strength in pulling in For more information, visit www. For more information, visit www. online bidders. On March figures alone, 12 graysonline.com or contact Dean Rollason,liquidasset.co.nz. lots of this iconic Australian label averaged wine account manager, on 02 9741 9600*All prices are in NZ$ and include $468, with a 1968 the top seller at $639. or [email protected]’s premium. * All prices listed include buyer’s premium. TURN YOUR GraysOnline sells more cases of wine online thanLIQUID ASSET anyone else in Australia. We manage the marketing, INTO CASH warehousing, logistic and payment - making it the most effective but also the easiest retail channel. Call Kieran Gallagher on 02 9741 9600 or email [email protected] July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 103

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN CLONAKILLA 2002 $140 MOUNT MARY 2001 $370 THREE RIVERS/ WINES Shiraz Viognier 2004 $190 Quintet 2002 $450 Chris Ringland 1990 $65 2005 $140 2003 $400 Wines Shiraz BASS PHILLIP 1993 $65 2006 $120 1990 $260 2004 $480 1990 $850Premium Pinot Noir 1994 $85 2007 Not Released 1991 $120 2005 $550 1991 $700 1995 $65 2008 $110 1992 $110 1992 $650 1990 $80 1996 $100 Armagh Shiraz 1993 $130 Bin 707 1993 $750 1991 $100 1997 $130 Meshach 1990 $220 1994 $120 1980 $150 1994 $650 1992 $120 1998 $150 1990 $110 1991 $180 1995 $100 1981 Not Released 1995 $500 1993 $100 1999 $55 1991 $85 1992 $120 1996 $160 1982 $150 1996 $900 1994 $120 2000 $90 1992 $80 1993 $110 1997 $110 1983 $150 1997 Not Released 1995 $95 2001 $130 1993 $75 1994 $130 1998 $180 1984 $150 1998 $900 1996 $115 2002 $120 1994 $90 1995 $130 1999 $120 1985 $150 1999 $600 1997 $180 2003 $110 1995 $85 1996 $160 2000 $160 1986 $200 2000 $450 1998 $110 2004 $120 1996 $100 1997 $150 2001 $120 1987 $140 2001 $850 1999 $140 2005 $120 1997 Not Released 1998 $220 2002 $130 1988 $160 2002 $800 2000 $110 2006 $100 1998 $130 1999 $130 2003 $130 1989 $150 2003 $500 2001 $100 2007 $150 1999 $85 2000 $120 2004 $140 1990 $220 2002 $145 2008 $120 2000 $70 2001 $140 2005 $140 1991 $160 Shiraz 2003 $110 2001 $110 2002 $200 2006 $120 1992 $160 1990 $145 2004 $120 Cabernet Merlot 2002 $95 2004 $145 1993 $160 1991 $130 2005 $80 1990 $95 2003 $65 2005 $120 Bin 95 Grange 1994 $180 1992 $80 2007 $90 1991 $100 2004 $75 2006 $120 1951 $43,000 1995 Not Released 1993 $90 2008 $95 1992 $80 2005 $70 1952 $17,000 1996 $200 1994 $160 1993 $85 GREENOCK CREEK Chardonnay 1953 $13,000 1997 $160 1995 $95 BINDI 1994 $90 Art Series 1954 $10,000 1998 $220 1996 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 1995 $95 Roennfeldt Rd 1955 $3,600 1999 $170 1997 $90 1997 $80 1996 $100 Shiraz 1990 $60 1956 $12,000 2000 Not Released 1998 $160 1998 $95 1997 $90 1991 $70 1957 $11,000 2001 $150 1999 $100 1999 Not Released 1998 $95 1995 $370 1992 $75 1958 $4,800 2002 $180 2000 $90 2000 $150 1999 $95 1996 $300 1993 $65 1959 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2001 $95 2001 $120 2000 $85 1997 $190 1994 $85 1960 $1,400 2004 $190 2002 $150 2002 $110 2001 $80 1998 $350 1995 $120 1961 $1,200 2005 $170 2003 $80 2003 $85 2002 Not Released 1999 $180 1996 $65 1962 $1,100 2006 $160 2004 $150 2004 $140 2003 $75 2000 $220 1997 $100 1963 $1,000 2007 $160 2005 $130 2005 $120 2004 $70 2001 $240 1998 $70 1964 $1,000 2006 $130 2006 $110 2002 $400 1999 $85 1965 $500 Bin 60A 2007 $140 2007 $110 ELDERTON 2003 $200 2000 $75 1966 $600 1962 $3,500 2008 $110 Command Shiraz 2004 $350 2001 $90 1967 $700 2004 $460 1990 $120 2002 $85 1968 $550 BROKENWOOD 1991 Not Released Hill of Grace 2003 $100 1969 $550 Basket Press Para Liqueur Graveyard Shiraz 1992 $75 1980 $250 2004 $95 1970 $400 Shiraz 1878 $1,600 1990 $90 1993 $65 1981 $230 2005 $75 1971 $700 1879 $1,200 1991 $100 1994 $95 1982 $240 2006 $70 1972 $350 1990 $150 1880 $800 1992 Not Released 1995 $75 1983 $240 2007 $65 1973 $360 1991 $140 1881 $800 1993 $75 1996 $95 1984 $210 1974 $400 1992 $95 1887 $800 1994 $80 1997 $80 1985 $250 MOSS WOOD 1975 $400 1993 $75 1893 $1,000 1995 $70 1998 $90 1986 $350 Cab Sauv 1976 $600 1994 $90 1899 $1,000 1996 $95 1999 $60 1987 $210 1977 $400 1995 $75 1901 $650 1997 $75 2000 $70 1988 $310 1990 $130 1978 $400 1996 $140 1908 $550 1998 $110 2001 $80 1989 $240 1991 $160 1979 $380 1997 $95 1910 $500 1999 $90 2002 $90 1990 $460 1992 $120 1980 $360 1998 $190 1922 $450 2000 $95 2003 $70 1991 $400 1993 $100 1981 $390 1999 $95 1925 $700 2001 $80 2004 $80 1992 $350 1994 $130 1982 $370 2000 $80 1927 $360 2002 $75 2005 $65 1993 $300 1995 $170 1983 $400 2001 $85 1930 $240 2003 $80 2006 $55 1994 $340 1996 $150 1984 $360 2002 $140 1933 $200 2004 $80 1995 $340 1997 $100 1985 $400 2003 $100 1939 $150 2005 $85 1996 $500 1998 $150 1986 $550 2004 $95 1944 $90 2006 $100 GIACONDA 1997 $320 1999 $140 1987 $340 2005 $95 1947 $80 2007 $90 Chardonnay 1998 $520 2000 $120 1988 $350 2006 $95 1951 $300 1990 $100 1999 $380 2001 $120 1989 $360 2007 $100CLARENDON HILLS 1991 $75 2001 $360 2002 $90 1990 $580 Astralis Shiraz 1992 $85 2002 $440 2003 $95 1991 $480 1993 $90 2004 $520 2004 $85 1992 $350 1994 $230 1994 $100 2005 $350 2005 $80 1993 $350 1995 $250 1995 $85 2006 $65 1994 $350 1996 $300 1996 $130 2006 $75 1995 $350 1997 $250 1997 $90 1996 $480 1998 $320 1998 $125 1997 $340 1999 $260 1999 $110 1998 $580 2000 $270 2000 $110 1999 $420 2001 $290 2001 $100 2000 $420 2002 $330 2003 $210 2004 $350 2005 $300 2006 $300 104 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions IMPORTED Chateau Latour 2003 $600 Auction WINES 1990 $1,250 2004 $400 1991 $600 2005 $950 World’s bestMoet et Chandon 1992 $280 2006 $450 wine prices Cuvee Dom 1993 $360 Perignon 1994 $360 E. Guigal La Turque Do you want the real wine price story? 1995 $650 Hermitage Do you want to check trends?1973 $360 1996 $1,1001975 $400 1997 $360 1990 $800 Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange1976 $330 1998 $520 1991 $480 has the world’s best Wine Auction sale1978 $250 1999 $600 1992 $2701980 $220 2000 $1,800 1993 $240 price database.1982 $350 2001 $700 1994 $3001983 $180 2002 $750 1995 $500 Every bottle sold over the past1985 $300 2003 $1,500 1996 $260 ten years, perfectly searchable1988 $260 2004 $600 1997 $3201990 $450 2005 $1,350 1998 $700 and cross referenced.1992 $240 2006 Not Released 1999 $5601993 $220 2007 $750 2000 $420 And it’s Free! Just go to the Web site.1995 $220 2001 $520 Sterling Wine Auctions, specialists since1996 $290 Chateau Petrus 2002 $450 1992, offering full Live Online E-trading1998 $260 1990 $4,800 2003 $8501999 $200 1991 $1,300 2004 $350 to clients all over the world and Old2000 $210 1992 $1,000 2005 $800 Fashioned personal service. 1993 $1,800 Gaja Barbaresco Louis Roederer 1994 $1,900 1990 $330 FREE Auction Catalogues Cristal 1995 $1,400 1991 $210 and FREE Bidder Registration. 1996 $1,000 1992 $2601990 $600 1997 $3,500 1993 $210 Phone Lynton for a chat1993 $220 1998 $1,250 1994 $300 on 08 9388 99551994 $340 1999 $5,000 1995 $550 or 0418 949 837,1995 $300 2000 $2,300 1996 $300 or log on1996 $440 2001 $2,000 1997 $2601997 $240 2002 $3,000 1998 $310 www.sterlingwine.com.au1999 $340 2003 $2,000 1999 $2202000 $340 2004 $3,700 2000 $3002002 $320Chateau Mouton Domaine Tenuta de la Romanee Dell’Ornellaia Rothschild Conti La Tache1990 $440 1990 $6,600 Ornellaia1991 $280 1991 $1,900 1991 $3201992 $230 1992 $1,250 1992 $1051993 $350 1993 $1,800 1993 $1101994 $280 1994 $1,500 1994 $1301995 $520 1995 $2,200 1995 $1301996 $610 1996 $1,800 1996 $1801997 $280 1997 $1,900 1997 $3401998 $360 1998 $2,200 1998 $3001999 $600 1999 $5,600 1999 $2402000 $1,150 2000 $1,500 2000 $1402001 $450 2001 $2,000 2001 $2902002 $480 2002 $2,800 2002 $2402003 $580 2003 $2,800 2003 $1002004 $500 2004 $2,200 2004 $1502005 Not Released 2005 $3,600 2005 $1502006 Not Released 2006 $1,5002007 $600 Domaine Armand Vega Sicilia Unico Rousseau Gran Reserva Chambertin 1990 $560 Clos de Beze 1991 $420 1990 $950 1994 $550 1991 $200 1995 $300 1992 $220 2003 $300 1993 $380 1994 $180 STERLING 1995 $560 1996 $600 Wine Auctions & Exchange 1997 $280 1998 $400 1999 $800 2000 $400 2001 $380 2002 $500 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 105

WORLD FINE WINE AUCTION PRICESWine Producer Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage VintageFrance, Bordeaux 2009 2005 2003 2000 1996 1990 1982Chateau Latour 23200 17,500 15,500 18,600 14700 12,000 33500Chateau La te RothschildChateau Mouton Rothschild 25000 20235 21600 37000 25300 - 14000 81000Chateau Haut BrionChateau Margaux 12000 10000 6800 16500 9600 6800 25500Chateau Cheval BlancChateau Petrus 11500 - 9000 5500 10000 7400 10000 - 13000Chateau AusoneChateau Leoville Barton 15000 16500 10400 14500 12000 14500 17000Chateau d’Yquem 13000 11400 4300 14000 6000 - 14200 15500 50300 57000 33000 51000 22000 62000 86000 20500 32000 - 22000 30000 - 7700 8700 7800 1500 1400 1400 - 1800 - 1300 - 2400 3000 9500 5000 - 5500 5500 NA 5000France, Burgundy 2009 2005 2002 1999 1990Domaine de la Romanee Conti Romanee Conti NA 37000Domaine de la Romanee Conti La Tache NA 165000 - 78000 59000 70000Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin NA 17500Domaine Leroy Chambertin NA 55300 25000 - 50000 11100 16000 13000 12500 34000 16800 29000France, Rhone 2009 2007 2005 2001 1990Chateau de Beaucastel Hommage à Jacques Perrin NA 4400 2700 - 5000 - 9000Chateau Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape NA NA 6300 3600 - NAChapoutier Le Pavillon 2500 - 2000 - 2200 - 2400 3200Chave Hermitage NA 1200 2300 - 2000 - 8000Guigal La Turque Cote Rotie NA 4000 6000 3700 12000Guigal La Landonne Cote Rotie NA 3800 6000 3800 13500Guigal La Mouline Cote Rotie NA 4500 5700 4200 13500France, Champagne 2002 1998 1996 1995 1990Salon Cuvee ‘S’Krug Clos du Mesnil NA NA 2800 - 2400 - 3300Dom Perignon Oenotheque NA 9800 15300 - 11000 - 13500 NA NA 4300 4100 3000 -Italy, Piedmont 2006 2004 2003 1997 1990Gaja Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo 3200 - 5700La Spinetta Barbaresco Valeirano 1300 1600 2700 - 5700 6500 - 1200 - 1100 - NAItaly, Tuscany 2006 2004 2003 1997 1990Ornellaia MassetoMacchiole 8800 8200 6000 9400 NA 4100 6000 2400 - NA NAItaly, Amarone 2000 1997 1995 1993 1991Quintarelli 4200 3400 - 2400 - 6000 5000Spain, Rioja 2005 2004 2001 1995 1994Artadi Vina Pison 3000 - 6500 3300 3000 1300Spain, Priorat 2005 2004 2001 1999 1995Palacios L’Ermita 6800 - 7000 4800 - 3200 - 3500Spain, Ribera Del Du 2005 2004 2001 1999 1995Pingus 13000 15200 7300 - 7500 9000 -Prices are in USD for 12 x 750ml. United Cellars Fine Wine Auction Prices are not intended to predict future results of wine auction prices. Wine prices, andprices obtained at auction, can vary. Past performance is not indicative of future results. NA Not Available up down - steady Australia and New Zealand’s leading wine Merchant Specialising in boutique, fine and rare wines www.unitedcellars.com.au | email: [email protected] | tel: 1300 5UNITED | sms : 0402 767 929

Cabernet Merlot 2009 Shiraz 2009 Rose 2010 G.A. Hannett Malbec 2009 Top in ClassSBS 2010 Top 40 Best BuysThe Story Behind Our Name:In January 2005 around a thousandsheep made their way into the vineyardand proceeded to eat anything green(and some grapes) within reach.This form of leaf plucking, although costeffective, is generally not recommended!www.greedysheep.com.aue: [email protected]: 0408 911 660PO Box 530 Cowaramup WA 6284

136 TASTED70 AWARDEDMERLOT & OTHERBORDEAUX VARIETALSIn France, wines that are predominantly merlot are generally located Norton Reservain what is known as the “right bank” of Bordeaux or on the northern Argentina Malbecside of the Dordogne River. On the “left bank”, low side, cabernet 2006 HHHHsauvignon predominates. In the mix, on both sides, we often see Vibrant red/black withthe lesser varietals of cabernet franc, petit verdot and, sometimes, purple hues. Spicymalbec. Here we see the Australian versions of these varietals and cooked fruit aromas andblends and the occasional French version for comparison. youthful fruity palate with lots of tannins. JustPETIT VERDOT Salena Estate MALBEC needs more time to& BLENDS Ink Series South really shine. $14.99 Australia Petit 9 TASTED11 TASTED Verdot 2009 HHH1/2 6 AWARDED Tarquino Argentina6 AWARDED Briary aromatics with a Malbec 2008 HHH1/2 spicy lift and a hint of Some nice flavour Butterscotch-like“This varietal can add tar and slightly greenish and softness showing characters on the nosestructure to a blend but fruit flavours. Good here; a varietal that can and nice intensity ofis a bit hit and miss on tannins. $14.99 stand-alone. spicy fruit mix on theits own”, commented Gapsted Limited palate supported byone judge. Some solid Release Heathcote drying tannins. $16.99 St Leonards Victoriaresults here. King Valley Petit Cabernet Franc Verdot 2007 HHH1/2 Bleasdale 2010 HHH1/2 Nice licorice-like fruit Second Innings Confectionery sweet here with spicy oak Langhorne Creek aromas with a spicy lift in support and grippy, Malbec 2008 HHH and pleasant palate with but not overpowering, Inky colour and light greenish flavours and tannin structure. $27 sherbet-like aromas moderate tannins. $23 with excellent weight Burnbrae of sweet dark berry and MERLOT Mudgee Petit Verdot oak flavours. $18.99 BLENDS 2007 HHH1/2 Earthy leathery bouquet Terrazas Reserva 15 TASTED and a palate still with Argentina Malbec 13 AWARDED primary fruit but also 2007 HHH nice secondary notes Some sour cherry/ Chateau Pavie developing. $23 rhubarb fruit aromas and Macquin Premier good fruit weight on Grand Cru ClasseCelestial Bay Zenith Trentham TE Estate G.A Hannett the palate with strong Saint-Emilion MerlotMargaret River Petit NSW Petit Verdot Premium Reserve tannins. $31.99 Cabernet FrancVerdot Cabernet 2008 HHH1/2 Margaret River Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon Shiraz Nose of vanilla oak and Malbec 2009 HHHH Argento Argentina 2007 HHHH2009 HHHH blackberry conserve; A clean, fruity, modern Malbec 2008 HHH Lovely rich and intenseDeep dark colour to this more savory on the style with sweet plum Mature, soft and oaky aromatics; complexbig bold wine with its palate with nice level of and blackcurrant-like with developed fruit and pungent. Verysavory fruit, sweet spicy sweet tannins. $16 fruit with hints of vanilla aromas and silky smooth flavoursome palate loadedoak and very grippy and Ballast Stone and nutmeg. A very dark berry palate. $16.99 with a complexity of fruit,assertive tannins on the Currency Creek pretty and very drinkable oak and tannins and silky-finish. $35 Petit Verdot wine. $50 CABERNET smooth. $129.99 2008 HHH FRANC Lifted violet and plum aromas and an assertive 3 TASTED palate with some good 1 AWARDED sweet varietal fruit. $22 Cabernet franc needs to be ripe to be good and is often a better blender than a stand-alone varietal.108 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

Chateau Branaire- Shottesbrooke Soho Revolver varietal tastingDucru Grand Cru The Proprietor Merlot MalbecClasse en 1855 McLaren Vale Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon WINESaint-Julien Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH COURSESBlend 2006 HHHH Malbec 2009 HHHH Big, oaky style with niceLifted mulberry nose Smells like stewed up-front dark berry fruit Educatewith hints of green rhubarb with nice earthy/ and slightly grainy tannins; Yourolives. Lovely palate tarry touches. Very ripe a touch herbal. $37.99 Palatestructure with intense and intense sweet fruit Lerida Estate Lakeplum flavours and just flavours with drying George Canberra An outstanding reputationthe right spicy oak to tannins in support. $38 District Merlot for wine appreciationbalance it. $152.99 Wills Domain Cabernet Franc Develop your sensoryCraggy Range Reserve Bitza 2008 HHH skills and build yourTe Kahu Hawkes Bay Margaret River Cool, leafy aromas with confidenceNZ Merlot Cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot earthy/tarry elements, Taste everything fromFranc Cabernet Malbec Cabernet and spicy and slightly Australia’s finest worldSauvignon Malbec Sauvignon Cabernet green flavours. $29.50 famous wines through to2008 HHHH Franc 2008 HHH1/2 Burk Salter South rare and exciting newRich purple hues and Cassis and spices lift off Australia Merlot releasessweet dark berry the nose. Soft, up-front Cabernet 2009 HHH Emphasis on fun andaromas, with plum Black Forest cake-like Smells of blackberry jam learningand blackcurrant fruit flavours with lovely and sour cherries; tastes Enrol in the regularflavours on a weighty chocolaty tannins. $45 of dark berries and programmed courses orpalate with spicy oak Chateau Gazin vanillin oak, with subtle call us with your ideas forand soft tannins. $31.99 L’Hospitalet de Gazin tannins. $16 custom classesMcKellar Ridge Pomerol Merlot Classes are held at theCanberra District Blend 2006 HHH MERLOT National Wine CentreMerlot Cabernet Smoky/charry oak nose, UNDER $15 Adelaide, South AustraliaFranc 2009 HHHH with powerful oak and Call us for more informationRich, tarry/earthy substantial tannins on 18 TASTED or book on-linebouquet with hints the palate but has fruit 4 AWARDEDof tea leaves. Quite to carry it. $73.67herbal flavours with a Casillero del Diablobig mouthful of tannins Basket Range Reserva Chile Merlotand a pleasant lingering Brough Superior 2008 HHHHfinish. $28 Adelaide Hills Aromatic blueberry noseChateau Teyssier Merlot Petit Verdot with excellent spicyGrand Cru Saint- 2008 HHH nuances. Palate exhibitsEmilion Merlot Brooding cassis bouquet bold berry fruit flavours,Blend 2007 HHHH with earthy herbal hints, nutty oak and nice tannicMild mulberry aromas and simple blackberry finish. $13.99with a hint of lavender, fruit flavours. $20 Ballast Stoneand a big and complex Steeple Jack Southpalate with excellent Australia Merlotbalance of oak and fruit. 2009 HHH1/2“Smells of Bordeaux!” Nice tarry depth to thesaid one judge. $46.99 fruity nose and pleasant,Burnbrae lingering cherry fruit andClive Gale Mudgee plum flavours with oakMerlot Cabernet in support. $11Sauvignon Petit Taylors PromisedVerdot 2008 HHHH Land SouthNice wine - balanced Australia Merlotand rich, with ripe plums 2010 HHH1/2on the nose and a ripe, Soft, vibrant fruitrich fruit palate high in nose with chocolatyalcohol and with fresh notes, and pleasant,acidity and powdery flavoursome plum andtannins. $25 blackcurrant palate with supporting oak. $13 08 8222 9277 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 109

M E R L OT & OT H E R B O R D E AU X VA R I E TA L SNorton Reserva Preece Victoria MERLOT Glenholme MERLOTArgentina Merlot Merlot 2009 HHH $20-$25 Vineyards Blesing’s $25-$302007 HHH Aggressive, vibrant red Garden SouthernBig, rich fruit nose and merlot with greener, 25 TASTED Flinders Ranges 18 TASTEDvery soft, fresh, licoricey lighter fruit flavours and 10 AWARDED Merlot 2009 HHH 12 AWARDEDpalate with intense chalky tannins. $15 Porty fruit aromas and Punt Roadtannins. $14.99 Watershed Shades Palmer Margaret bold palate with vibrant Napoleone Vineyards Margaret River River Merlot fruit in the riper flavour Yarra Valley MerlotMERLOT Merlot 2009 HHH 2008 HHHH spectrum. $20 2008 HHHH$15-$20 Herbaceous style with Lovely, food-friendly Silent Range Estate Soft blueberry aromas a complexity of briary, wine with a huge dark Merlot 2008 HHH with vanillin oak15 TASTED earthy and sweet berry berry compote of flavour. Nose and palate are a overtones and slightly8 AWARDED characters. $16.95 Good tannin structure complexity of berry, briary, developed fruit palate Ferngrove and some pleasant tabac and creamy oak with mouthfilling tanninsDomain Barossa Frankland River herbal notes. $23.50 with tannin balance. $22 and a drying, acidicBarossa Valley Merlot 2009 HHH The Palatine Moppity Vineyards finish. $29Merlot 2010 HHHH Pleasant plum fruit with Adelaide Hills Hilltops MerlotNicely structured a hint of cedar and cigar Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 2009 HHH Heggies Eden Valleywine with a lovely box characters with some Smells of strawberry The nose has a medicinal Merlot 2007 HHHHcolour and showing a greenish tannins. $19.99 conserve and tastes character and the pleasant Mulberry nose withgood weight of spicy, Kies Deer Stalker quite raisin-like. Nice palate is full of sweet, rhubarb notes andstalky fruit wrapped in Barossa Valley creamy oak and a spicy berries. $24.99 developing a leathery/sweet tannins. Very Merlot 2010 HHH chalky, tannic finish. $21 Ralph Fowler tarry maturity. Veryflavoursome style. $19 Big concentration Olde Eastbrook Mount Benson good flavour depth of berry fruit with a Reserve Pemberton Merlot 2008 HHH with meaty notes andThorn-Clarke perfumed lift to the nose Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Very developed, porty greenish tannins. $28.95Sandpiper Barossa and complexity on the Rich, inky colour, tarry/ nose with nice earthyMerlot 2009 HHHH palate. $18 licorice nose and young, complexity, which isBig, bold merlot - still Trentham full-bodied palate with echoed on the palate. $20very young and needing TE Estate NSW fresh fruit flavours and Guichen Baya little more cellaring. Merlot 2009 HHH soft tannins. $23 Mount BensonHas an intensity of Flavoursome, well- Merlot 2007 HHHblackberry fruit and nice balanced wine with Pleasant wine, readylong, firm tannins. $15 pleasant fruit and soft for drinking now, with tannins. $16 nice sweet berry/earthy/Taylors Clare Valley dusty complexity. $20Merlot 2009 HHHH Harrington GlenBig, warm wine that’s Estate Granite Beltwell structured and Merlot 2007 HHHlong and exhibits plenty Aged aromas mingleof lovely chocolaty with fresh berries andfruit that’s been well herbs. Assertive, tannicmatched by the oak. $18 palate with good berry flavours. $20 Smith & Hooper Wrattonbully Merlot 2008 HHH Porty nose and light, simple palate with nice maturing sweet berry flavours. $21.95JUDGES Greg Tilbrook Phillip John Simon Rowe Senior winemaker Watson Chief winemaker and Buying and promotions Wine Group. Former manager for Hungerford manager for Sip ’n winemaker at Wynns Hill and former chief Save Cellars. Diploma Coonawarra winery for the white winemaker for of Wine Marketing. past five years. Previously Lindemans. Senior show Twelve years in the winemaker at Amberley judge at major capital city retail liquor industry, Estate, Margaret River for six wine shows. Chairman of including managing years. Completed a vintage in Brisbane wine show. Parade Cellars in SA. Languedoc, France.110 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

varietal tastingKay Brothers Sirromet James Irvine EdenAmery Vineyards Seven Scenes Valley Grand MerlotMcLaren Vale Merlot Signature Collection 1999 HHHH2005 HHHH Granite Belt Merlot Beautifully developedMinty, ripe and complex 2010 HHH and very complexdeep red wine with lots Chocolaty oak aromas and an intensityof berry fruit with nice characters on the nose, of flavour on a mature,earthiness and good with a softer, fresh and yet still very much alive,dose of tannins. Very lively redcurrant style of palate. “One for the ageddrinkable. $27.99 palate. $28 red wine lover,” said oneMount Avoca judge. $89.99Pyrenees Merlot Rileys The Engineer Higher Plane2009 HHH1/2 Eden Valley Merlot Margaret RiverInky wine with allspice on 2008 HHH Merlot 2008 HHH1/2the nose and dense, dark Spicy fruit nose with Nose lifted andfruit flavours; still youthful, mocha overtones, developing; dark berrywith tannins needing time and very up-front, over spicy oak. Complex,to settle. $25 soft, generous berry sweet, berry/herbalGalafrey Dry Grown flavours. $27.99 palate. Great tanninMount Barker WA structure. $35Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 MERLOT HighbankNice leathery- OVER $30 Coonawarra Merlotlike development 2005 HHH1/2complemented by bright 12 TASTED Complex tarry/barnyardmulberry fruit. Very 10 AWARDED aromas with a hint ofcomplex wine with good mint, and excellentlevel of tannins. $28 A very solid and flavoursome profile withTenafeate Creek consistent class of lovely mouthfeel andBasket Press One wines. Most had a lingering finish. $55.99Tree Hill Merlot cabernet addition and Bellarmine2009 HHH1/2 this added to the depth Pemberton MerlotSmells of Black Forest of the wines involved. 2009 HHHcake and has nice rich, Good overall palate Mulberry fruit nose withred berry flavours and structure here. a eucalyptus lift and anoak-derived vanilla assertive palate thatcharacters; a touch Bird in Hand needs time to settle. $35acidic. $28 Adelaide Hills Merlot Saddler’s CreekCannibal Creek West 2009 HHHH1/2 Reserve FleurieuGippsland Merlot Lovely cerise colour with Peninsula Merlot2008 HHH complex but subdued 2008 HHHSour cherry and mulberry and spicy oak Hint of leathery andchocolate characters bouquet with hints of barnyardy elements nicelymingle with some earthy green olives. Excellent layered with dark berriesspiciness. $28 palate structure and and vanillin oak. $42Patrick Estate mouthfeel and a perfect Chateau LagrangeGrown Wrattonbully balance between fruit Pomerol MerlotMerlot 2009 HHH and oak. $35 Blend 2007 HHHNice wine with good A touch pruney on thebalance and structure, Katnook Estate nose, with gentle sweetfilled with soft cassis fruit Coonawarra Merlot berry flavours and softwith eucalypt lift. $28 2008 HHHH tannins. $54.99Ernest Hill The Dam Very attractive oak- CranefordHunter Valley Merlot derived oak aromas and Barossa Valley2010 HHH flavours melding with the Merlot 2008 HHHCassis fruit aromas with sweetness of the berry Lots of sweet, spicysoft, approachable fruit fruit and some spicy berry fruit mingles withon the palate and softer eucalyptus at the back. tarry/leathery complexitytannins. Nice drink! $25 Good tannins. $40 and soft tannins. $30.50Reillys Dry LandClare Valley Merlot Saddler’s Creek2009 HHH Reserve HunterSweet, ripe varietal fruit Valley Merlotlayered with tarry/charry 2007 HHHHoak characters, chalky Perfectly balanced wine.tannins and warming Excellent varietal fruitalcohol. $29 characters with velvety- soft tannins creating great mouthfeel. Ready for drinking now. $42 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 111

387 TASTED203 AWARDEDCABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSCabernet sauvignon is often considered to be the kind of red that Gemstone Western Vindara Estateused to be known as “masculine”. It has its zenith in Bordeaux, Australia Cabernet Broken Window Redwhere it is blended with cabernet franc and merlot, and sometimes Merlot 2010 HHH1/2 Western Australiaa little malbec. In Australia and other parts of the New World it Lovely strawberries Cabernet Shirazflourishes, creating great, strongly flavoured wines equal to these and cream nose. Merlot 2006 HHHpresented from the Old World. As always, the best wines are Lots of upfront fruit Slightly aged, toastythose which have the best fruit and best winemaking, with oak sweetness and savoury oak nose with a grippy,maturation adding that extra layer. grippy tannins. Needs developed, tannic palate. time. $15.95 Still looking good! $13 Metala Limited Release Langhorne Windowrie The Mill Creek Cabernet Hilltops Cabernet Shiraz Malbec Merlot 2010 HHH 2009 HHH Good varietal fruit Great complexity and definition on the nose, interest here, with plenty with smooth, chocolaty of spices, licorice and palate and lingering oak plum-like characters. $18 flavours. 5+ $16.99CABERNET OTHER& BLENDS CABERNET Tatachilla Partners The Growers’UNDER $10 BLENDS McLaren Vale Peppermint Grove $10-$20 Cabernet Shiraz Western Australia13 TASTED 2009 HHH Cabernet Merlot4 AWARDED 13 TASTED Simple, youthful fruit 2010 HHH 8 AWARDED bomb with violet notes, Lifted raspberryAlways a difficult class moderate length and lolly-like aromas withbut the judges found a These were good tannic grip. $12 similar flavours. Veryfew that were reasonable predominantly cabernet Quarisa Shot in young. Needs cellaring.at this price point. shiraz blends and the Dark Cabernet showed improved depth Shiraz 2008 HHH 5+ $15.95De Bortoli Sacred of fruit complexity. Fresh, estery, violetHill Cabernet Merlot nose with a toasty oak CABERNET2009 HHH Bremerton Tamblyn background, and a ripe, SAUVIGNONAromas of tarry/charry Langhorne Creek firm, slightly hot, fruity $10-$15oak mingling with Cabernet Shiraz palate. $11.99blackberries, with much Malbec Merlot 23 TASTEDthe same for the tannic 2009 HHHHpalate. $7.50 Powerful and complex 1 AWARDED blend of lovely earthy/Quarisa 30 Mile Aldi Stores Three mocha characters The judges wereSouth Eastern Notes Adelaide Hills with attractive herbal extremely disappointedAustralia Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon components and with this group. Lots ofSauvignon 2008 HHH 2009 HHH bright, peppery notes. oak faults or fermentationOak-driven bouquet and Fresh, estery nose issues. At this pricebig, rich blackcurrant with some spices and 5+ $18 point the blends offer apalate with balancing coffee. Nice balance and better choice.oak. “It won’t concentration of dark Fox Gordondisappoint!” $9.99 licorice flavours. $9.99 by George Barossa Robertson’s Well Valley Cabernet CoonawarraOxford Landing Tempranillo Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 2010 HHHShiraz 2009 HHH Subtle aromas of Estery florals and darkVery simple wine with chocolate, licorice berries on the nose andblackberries on the and spices. Very a big, rich fruit bombnose and a jammy fruit flavoursome, ripe, of a palate - soft in thepalate with a fresh, jammy fruit palate with mouth. $14.90minty lift. $8.95 balancing oak. $19.95112 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

No other winemaker in the history of Western Australia has done more for the evolution of the state’s wine industry than Jack Mann. CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007Outstanding results in this month’s Winestate Cabernet and Cabernet Blends tasting. Vivid purple wine with intense and very youthful blackcurrant varietal fruit with an excellent grip of acid. Drink responsibly

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSCABERNET Kirrihill Tullymore Berton Vineyard Aldi Stores Morris of RutherglenSAUVIGNON Vineyard Clare Valley Reserve Coonawarra Holloway Road Rutherglen Cabernet$15-$20 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Limestone Coast Sauvignon 2008 HHH 2009 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Toasty/herbal bouquet33 TASTED Ripe cassis nose with a Good density of spicy 2006 HHH1/2 and ripe, flavoursome16 AWARDED pleasant, minty lift and cabernet fruit on the Ripe, chocolaty nose and palate with good tannin/Big lift in quality from an attractive, well-made, nose, and a fresh palate generous, nicely textured, acid balance. $17.99the previous class. ripe fruit palate, nicely with rich, extracted chunky, leathery/spicy Rosemount DiamondHowever, it was quite a layered and beautifully fruit flavours and charry palate. Very good for a Label Cabernetvariable group, with good balanced. $19 oak. $19 five-year old. $19.99 Sauvignon 2009 HHHhighlights at the top end James Oatley Tic Jacob’s Creek Destinations Blackcurrant nose; somebut quite a few borderline Tok Mudgee & Reserve Coonawarra Coonawarra spice. Generous, rich,wines at the lower end. Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon fruit palate with toastyOverall a touch more Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 2008 HHH balance and dryingcare was taken and fruit 2008 HHHH Simple, estery, Nice tight, cool-climate tannins. $15.99had complexity. Generous blackcurrant blackcurrant bouquet cabernet with toasty oak Henry’s Drive fruit nicely blended with and nicely layered palate sitting on top of dark Vignerons Pillar BoxTwo Rivers Rocky the spicy characters. with plenty of ripe fruit, berry fruit. $16 Reserve PadthawayCrossing Hunter The nose has a minty tangy acid and drying Taylors Clare Valley Cabernet SauvignonValley Orange element and the palate tannins. $18.99 Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHCabernet Sauvignon is full of generous fruit 2009 HHH Simple stewed fruit2009 HHHH1/2 flavours. $17.99 Big, ripe and complex bouquet and lightweight,Nice complexity of purple wine with an well-balanced palateblackcurrant/toasty/minty oaky nose and lots with toasty/mintyaromas. Palate shows of sweet varietal fruit flavours. $18good structure and depth flavours. $18 Reillys Clare Valleyof berry fruit with some Cabernet Sauvignondark chocolate/minty 2009 HHHcharacters. Good oak and Smells of Ribena withtannin balance. $16 oak in the background and has a very drying, big, sweet, chocolaty palate. $18 Jamiesons Run Limestone Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Spicy toffee nose with nice toastiness, and spicy fruit palate that’s on the warm side. $15.99 Lou Miranda Estate LeOne Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH Nose of toasty oak with intense spiciness, and massively rich, sweet, licorice-like palate. Time! $18.95DAY 1 - JUDGESGeoff Cowey Aldo Bratovic Fil ScarpantoniSenior oenologist with National Sales Manager for Vineyard Manager andAWRI. He has wide Cooper, Seguin Morean. director of Scarpantonivintage experience Industry consultant for Wines for the past 27including Barossa, Bullasio wines in Australia years. Judge at theSunraysia, Great Western, and Italy. Over 20 years McLaren Vale wine show.Coonawarra, Tasmania, with Petaluma wines Likes the Italian ‘SlowFood’including Burgundy, in both marketing and wine philosophy.Priorat, Penedes, winemaking. Has judgedMartinborough. Judge at in capital city and regionalNew England Wine Show. wine shows.114 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

varietal tastingWolf Blass Yellow CABERNET McPherson Family Trentham NSW CABERNETLabel South Australia MERLOT Vineyards Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon BLENDSCabernet Sauvignon BLENDS Cabernet Merlot Merlot 2009 HHH $20-$252010 HHH $10-$20 2010 HHH Simple, young, big-Very young and minty- Estery, fresh, fruit- bodied, fruit-driven style 26 TASTEDfresh aromas with lolly- 34 TASTED driven nose and sweet, with layers of spices and 14 AWARDEDsweet fruit flavours. Has 15 AWARDED minty palate with mint and some grip. $16 Good standard here,balance and length. $15 balance and structure. Rosabrook Margaret with more fruit weightSylvan Springs Bell Varied group. The judges Needs time. $12.99 River Cabernet overall. However,Rd McLaren Vale found quite a few with B3 Wines Barossa Merlot 2009 HHH a few had sweet-sourCabernet Sauvignon basic winemaking faults. Cabernet Merlot Herbal aromas with characters which2009 HHH “Many of the smaller 2008 HHH some licorice. Clean affected the quality.Licorice nose with a producers struggle to Lots of oak on the cabernet fruit flavours The blends work wellminty character, and make high-quality wines nose, with fresh florals with good acid and and the oak balance isnice concentration of at this price,” said one showing through, and tannin levels. $17 generally excellent.choc-mint characters on judge. “There’s no room more of the rich oak on Punt Road Airliethe palate. $19.99 for error with small the palate. $18 Bank Yarra Valley Wyndham Estate volumes as there is no Patrick of Cabernet Sauvignon George Wyndham place to hide.” Coonawarra Mother Merlot 2008 HHH Founder’s Reserve of Pearl Coonawarra Big toasty/herbal aromas NSW Cabernet Merlot Brokenwood Cabernet Merlot and nice flavour profile 2005 HHHH1/2 McLaren Vale 2009 HHH on the powerful stewed Subtle blackcurrant Cabernet Sauvignon Sweet and chocolaty plum/licorice palate. $18 bouquet with nice Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 nose with a floral lift, Cumulus Wines complexity showing. The Minty/menthol nose and lots of sweet plum Rolling Central palate is full of the sweet with floral touches. fruit flavours with good Ranges Cabernet concentration of tight Simple, spicy and well- oak. $19 Merlot 2009 HHH varietal fruit flavours and balanced palate with Swings & Fragrances of violets is high in acid. Has length quite a grippy finish. $19 Roundabouts and lavender, and and structure. $21.59 Margaret River good flavour length Stonyfell The Cellars Cabernet Merlot and persistence on the Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH lightweight palate. $17.99 Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 Closed nose with faint Alkoomi Frankland Elegant wine with pretty violet character. Green River Cabernet florals and vanilla on flavour profile - quite Merlot 2009 HHH the nose. Nicely layered pretty. Has layers and Green bean nose with palate showing weight length. $19 slight leathery note. Palate and structure. $16.99 Reschke Bull a tad green but okay. Has Trader Coonawarra presence! $15.89 Jacob’s Creek South Cabernet Merlot Eastern Australia 2006 HHH Cabernet Merlot Big, jammy aromas and 2008 HHH rich, savoury flavours with Tight and lively, green slightly grippy tannins. herbal wine - soft and Holding up well. $18 flavoursome in the Plantagenet Omrah mouth, with subtle Western Australia tannins. $11.49 Cabernet Merlot 2008 HHH Oaky/herbal style with powerful spicy oak and dark, currant-like fruit. $18Mark Lloyd Scott Rawlinson DAY 2 - JUDGESProprietor and Wine consultantwinemaker for with Winescope. Former Adam EgginsCoriole. More than chief winemaker for Senior winemaker for25 years’ experience Serafino Wines at Taylors Wines. Wasin the wine industry. McLaren Vale. Previously Dux of Oenology atAssociate judge at the winemaker with Mildara at Roseworthy. Has judgedAdelaide Wine Show. Jamieson’s Run and Wolf at the Canberra, Ballarat,Member of Olive Oil Blass. Associate judge Clare and Adelaide wineAssessment Panel. at Canberra wine shows shows. Winestate’s and worked a vintage in Australian Winemaker of Northern California. the Year 2006. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 115

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSGreedy Sheep Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Sinclair Jeremy Penfolds Lake BreezeMargaret River Barossa Quartage Simon South West Thomas Hyland Langhorne CreekCabernet Merlot 2008 HHHH Australia Cabernet South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon2009 HHHH1/2 Big, beautiful, oak-driven Shiraz 2009 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2Big, ripe, deep purple style with a jammy/ Complex, toasty Ribena 2009 HHHHH Rich and youthful stylenumber with an spicy/minty nose and bouquet and hot, spicy, Good colour with a with Bordeaux-likeabundance of charry oak a sweet, ripe, richly mint palate with slightly fragrant, perfumed depth and complexity.well matched by the flavoured and well- aggressive tannins. $20 bouquet and an Nice mocha bouquetextracted varietal fruit structured palate with appealing and tasty and full, chocolatycharacters. Very good quite a hot finish. $20 Redgate Bin 588 medium-weight palate palate. A complete wineweight, texture and Paracombe Margaret River that shows complexity that just needs time inflavour. $20 The Reuben Adelaide Cabernet Merlot with supporting fruits. the cellar. $23Yalumba The Hills Cabernet 2009 HHH Very youthful - needs Kimbolton Fig TreeScribbler Barossa Sauvignon Merlot Big, ripe cassis hit to the more time. $21.99 Langhorne CreekCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc nose and intense sweet Koonara Cabernet SauvignonShiraz 2008 HHHH Malbec 2007 HHH1/2 fruit flavours on a hot, The Temptress 2009 HHHH1/2Ripe concentration of Fresh lightweight with toasty palate. $22.50 Coonawarra Impressive Old Spice-blackcurrant fruit aromas, floral aromas and sweet Cabernet Sauvignon like nose with earthyand a big, rich, oaky spicy/mint blackberry Greg Cooley Terry 2006 HHHH1/2 characters and mintypalate that has balance flavours balanced by and Suzi Clare Lovely fresh varietal appeal. Good palateand length and plenty of firm, drying tannins. $21 Valley Cabernet fruit for a five-year- texture with sweetflavour punch. $22.95 Higher Plane South Shiraz 2009 HHH old; holding up well. cassis fruit balanced byBig Shed Wines by South West Nose of spice, mint, Complexity of spices pleasant, lightweightCabernets (Cabernet Margaret River licorice and toast, lift off the nose and tannins. $24Sauvignon Cabernet Cabernet Merlot followed by a chunky oak/ the palate is rich andFranc) 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH blackberry palate. $22 generous. Quite a fewBig, chunky cabernet Estery, floral bouquet more years left in it. $22with a spicy oak and huge choc-mint Mad Fish Sidewaysinfluence and big berry palate with big, but Margaret Rivermint fruit flavours balanced, tannins. $20 Cabernet Sauvignonunderscored by the Juniper Crossing Merlot 2008 HHHoak. Nice integration of Margaret River Good cassis nose andtannins. $24.99 Cabernet Sauvignon big, rich, spicy, sweet Merlot 2008 HHH palate with a warming Warm, full-bodied style finish. $20 with tight cabernet flavours, some mint and CABERNET chunky tannins. $20 SAUVIGNON Fishbone Margaret $20-$25 River Cabernet Merlot 2008 HHH 42 TASTED Leafy blackcurrant 19 AWARDED bouquet and simple, minty, blackberry Mixed bag! The ‘09s palate layered with tended to be of medium rich, toasty oak. $20 weight, offering fair Leconfield drinking, but the ‘08s Coonawarra Cabernet were quite a mixed bunch Merlot 2009 HHH with high alcohol and Ripe mulberry aromas green edges from most and minty sweet palate but also some surprisingly with good balance of good examples from the oak. $24.99 better makers.DAY 3 - JUDGESPhil Reedman MW Ian McKenzie David LeMire MWMaster of Wine. Wine and National wine show Global Sales & Marketingretail industry consultant. judge and former co-chief manager for Shaw & SmithFormerly product winemaker for Southcorp, Wines. Master of Wine anddevelopment manager of Seppelt and Berri Estates. wine business consultant,Tesco stores, responsible Over 40 years’ experience with extensive judgingfor Australia, New Zealand in the wine industry experience at major capitaland South America. Has with more than 30 years city Australian wine shows.judging experience in the participation in the wine Previously both importsRiverland, Adelaide Hills and show judging circuit. and exports manager forMcLaren Vale wine shows. Negotiants International.116 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

Sabrina River Rosemount Shingleback varietal tastingLimited Release Regional Showcase McLaren ValeGranite Belt Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon iInt’snoavllaatbioonutCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 HHH2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 Generous food wine with AGlmascsorInky nose with wood Slight earthiness on the dusty nose and juicy, well-dominating, followed by youthful nose. Palate full, balanced palate. $24.95 For more information contacta hot, oak-driven palate firm and long and still a Amcor Glass Customer Servicethat has great presence. tad closed. Needs more Sinclair Giovanni phone (08) 8521 4600 orVery good crowd pleaser time to evolve. $21.99 South West Australia [email protected] a wine. $24 Step Rd Langhorne Cabernet SauvignonParacombe Creek Cabernet 2009 HHH www.amcor.comAdelaide Hills Sauvignon 2007 HHH Simple, well-made wineCabernet Sauvignon Well-developed, warm with interesting chocolaty2007 HHH1/2 and spicy style with nose and vibrant redComplex wine with wood propping it up berry palate. $20attractive rustic nicely. $21.90character. Some pepper Guichen Bay Windowrie Pig inon the nose and a rich, Vineyards Mount the House Cabernetweighty palate. Should Benson Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHage well. $21 Sauvignon 2007 HHH Another simple,Tidswell Wines Sweet oak drives this well-made wine, withHeathfield Ridge wine but you can still attractive strawberry-likeCabernet Sauvignon see the fruit. Some great fruit edged with green2008 HHH1/2 winemaking here. $20 notes. $25Spicy oak dominates the Paxton The Valecomplex and developed McLaren Vale CABERNETnose. Savoury palate Cabernet Sauvignon BLENDSsupported by some 2009 HHH $20-$30good wood. $22.50 Rich, ripe concentrationBeelgara Regional of fruit on the nose 17 TASTEDReserve Coonawarra and in the mouth. Nice 6 AWARDEDCabernet Sauvignon fleshy texture. Good2008 HHH1/2 palate weight. $24.99 Difficult class with someNicely evolving aromas good oak but in somewith an attractive cedary Tatachilla McLaren wines the fruit wasoak base and a lean but Vale Cabernet ageing prematurely.enjoyable coffee/spicy Sauvignon 2008 HHH Others had greatpalate. $24.95 Herbal/aniseed nose structure but withoutCumulus Wines with a medicinal sufficient fruit flavour.Climbing Orange note and a bright andCabernet Sauvignon flavoursome palate. $23 Greg Cooley Winna2009 HHH1/2 and Toop Clare ValleyComplex, tannic style Cabernet Merlotwith a solid texture and 2009 HHHH1/2a rich base of nutmeg- Lovely deep-colouredlike oak. Quite drying on wine with a pretty, mintythe finish. $21.99 bouquet showing hints ofRosemount District violets and plums. Rich,Release Coonawarra luscious and well-balancedCabernet Sauvignon palate, beautifully silky and2009 HHH1/2 with some great chocolatyAttractive jubey fruit oak. $25nose with spices anda hint of fennel, and a McKellar Ridge Trionicely balanced, tight Canberra Districtand well-structured Cabernet Sauvignonpalate. $21.99 Cabernet FrancWangolina Station Merlot 2009 HHHHSection 67 Spicy, mint-choc aromasMt Benson and nicely ‘shaped’,Cabernet Sauvignon long, lean, chocolaty2009 HHH1/2 palate. Has maturity andNutmeg and cashews grace! $28on the nose - veryfragrant. Dusty cassispalate is firm and fleshyin the mouth. $24 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 117

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSPreveli Cabernet Majella Coonawarra Preston Peak Single Brangayne of Blue PyreneesMerlot 2009 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Reserve Orange Tristan Estate Red PyreneesDusty oak characters 2009 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Orange Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignondominate the nose. Lovely minty-cherry 2005 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon Shiraz Merlot ShirazGreat palate length, perfumed freshness Complexity of aged Merlot 2009 HHHH 2006 HHHHgood balance. Fresh and on the nose that leads herbal/earthy aromas Solid and complex wine Lovely fragrant appeal.appealing. $25.95 to a silky-soft, long and evolving nicely, and a with lots of interest. Lifted spicy/minty bouquet elegant palate with a solid, generous, oak- Smells of blackberries and generous, weighty,Milhinch Wines very complex flavour driven palate showing and has a closed tarry/ tannic palate. Needs moreSeize the Day profile. Has grace and a fine line of acidity. tannic palate that needs cellaring. $32Barossa Valley length. $33 Holding up well. $32 air and time. $30 Windows BasketCabernet Shiraz False Cape Leconfield Geoff Merrill Pressed Cabernet2009 HHH1/2 The Captain Coonawarra Pimpala Vineyard Sauvignon PetitCooked fruit characters Kangaroo Island Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale Verdot Merloton the nose, with herbal/ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec 2009 HHHHtobacco notes. Ripe 2007 HHHH1/2 Interesting, funky oak Merlot 2004 HHHH Fragrant minty/spicy noseand complex, chocolaty Classic ‘07 cabernet depth to the nose. Full- Lovely old, rich classic and a palate exhibitingpalate. $29 with an appealing earthy, bodied and finely balanced with great depth and a lovely fleshy texture spicy, still slightly closed, palate showing a lovely many layers. Resinous and very generous,Zema Estate bouquet. Very generous, persistence of varietal fruit lift to the nose and great mouthfilling flavours. All itCluny Coonawarra flavoursome palate with a and oak flavours. $33.50 development, weight needs is some more timeCabernet Merlot solid tannic backbone. $30 and complexity on the in the cellar. $322006 HHH palate. $30 WindanceSoft and very Cabernet Sauvignondeveloped minty-choc 2010 HHH1/2style that needs to be Super-youthful minty-drunk soon. $25.65 chocolate vibrancy to the nose and a goodGoats Do Roam simple, primary fruitBored Doe South palate. Needs anotherAfrica Cabernet 2-5 years. $30Sauvignon Merlot Geoff MerrillPetit Verdot Pimpala VineyardCabernet Franc McLaren Vale2008 HHH Cabernet SauvignonGood consumer’s wine - Merlot 2003 HHH1/2ripe and tarry, with great Beautifully aged red;wood work. $26 very good but starting to dry out. Has classicCABERNET ripe fruit and spicy, cigar& BLENDS box characters. Drink$30-$35 now. $30 Koonara Ambriel’s29 TASTED Gift Coonawarra13 AWARDED Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHHThe judges were Minty lift to thedisappointed with the nose and a simple,‘08s, finding too many flavoursome, tannicstewed and cooked wines palate. Drink soon. $30with strong tannins. But Abbey Creekthere were some nicely Porongurupbalanced, mid-weight Cabernet Sauvignon‘09s and also some wines Merlot 2005 HHHageing very well at the ‘07 Attractive earthy, rusticand older levels. bouquet and generous palate with a green herbal line cutting through. $30 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Leafy lift to the nose and an excellent rich, generous and softly framed palate. $32.99118 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

CABERNET Grant Burge Cameron varietal tastingSAUVIGNON Vale Barossa2009 Cabernet Sauvignon GET THE$25-$30 2009 HHH1/2 LAST DROP Complex, minty bouquet OF PROFIT24 TASTED with nice berry depth OUT OF and a hot, ripe and tannic10 AWARDED palate. Needs some time EVERY in the cellar! $26.95 BOTTLE.“The 2009 vintage threw Bowen Estate O’Reilly’s Viola • A unique, flexible shieldup a consistency of Coonawarra Reserve Selection that protects wineelegant fruit and oak,” Cabernet Sauvignon Canungra Valley from oxidationcommented one judge. 2009 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon“Some wines fell to the Generous, lifted 2009 HHH • Extends the life of bottledgreen side but none varietal fruit aromas Subtle mix of fruit and wine for up to 5 dayswere overdeveloped or layered with cedary oak oak aromas and a nicelyovercooked.” What we characters. Complex, framed, still slightly • Inexpensive, easy to deployare seeing here is a higher tannic palate - rich and closed, palate. $27.90 and recycled with the bottlerating at the top end. weighty with a long acid Morambro Creek backbone. $29.54 Padthaway Cabernet • Tested by Provisor Labs inTaylors Jaraman Sauvignon 2009 HHH Australia and ETSClare Valley Herbal-like perfumed Laboratories in NAPACoonawarra nose and fresh, sweet,Cabernet Sauvignon varietal fruit palate with • International Distribution2009 HHHH1/2 complex tannins. $26.99 AgreementsLovely ripe, strong, Milhinch Winesvarietal fruit wine with Seize the Day • Recipient of Australiana rich, solid oak base. Barossa Valley Design Mark & NewNice depth and intensity Cabernet Sauvignon Inventors Awardof chocolaty aromas and 2009 HHHa luscious palate full Nicely structured wine • Patent & Trademark protectedof flavour. Should age with a solid colour andwell. $29.50 showing a green herbal undercurrent. $29Pyrenees Ridge Serafino CABERNETPyrenees McLaren Vale SAUVIGNONCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 & OLDER2009 HHHH 2009 HHHH $25-$30Gently rustic on the Nice plum and berry fruitnose, with berry/cassis varietal characters with a 24 TASTEDcharacters. Good palate beautifully firm, rich and 8 AWARDEDweight and excellent weighty Bordeaux-likebalance of fruit and palate. Excellent tannin Although the price issweetness - very structure. $26 increasing the qualityBordeaux-like. $28 still varies. Some winesS. Kidman Wines were worthy of theThe Ridge Terra price, while othersRossa Coonawarra were still evolving orCabernet Sauvignon had passed their prime.2009 HHHH There is an authenticVery pretty, cool-climate rustic character in thecassis aromas followed ‘07s evolving into aby a medium-weight, classic cabernet style.nicely textured, palateshowing plenty of oak www.wineshield.comfullness. $25.99Saltram PepperjackBarossa CabernetSauvignon2009 HHHHGenerous wine with agood concentration ofminty/herbal aromas anda mouthful of fine minty/peppery fruit on thelong, lean palate. $26 HBT/WPR113/A July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 119

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSLongview Devils Palmer Margaret CABERNET Angas Plains Hardys HRB|D636Elbow Adelaide Hills River Cabernet & BLENDS Special Reserve CoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon $35-$40 Langhorne Creek Margaret River2007 HHHHH 2007 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet SauvignonRich, full-bodied wine Tarry/charry aromas with 24 TASTED 2008 HHHH 2006 HHH- still youthful and underlying fruit and a 17 AWARDED Some classic oak on a Solid, ripe sweet fruitneeding more cellaring bright, medium-bodied Lots of solid wines, with cassis nose with a touch with decent oak and thetime. Some complexity palate with good length most on the leaner side of earthiness. Big, rich, tannins sitting on top. $39developing. Has a of varietal fruit. $27.50 and a few overripe and flavoursome, fruit-laden Houghton Wisdomsolid tannin base well Angas Plains Estate flat numbers. Many will palate with a long, Margaret Riverintegrated with the ripe PJ’s Langhorne Creek change in the next few sweet finish. $36.95 Cabernet Sauvignonvarietal fruit. $27 Cabernet Sauvignon years but it is debatable Taylors St Andrews 2009 HHHMildara Coonawarra 2008 HHH1/2 whether this will equate to Clare Valley Crimson wine with juicy,Cabernet Sauvignon Fragrant herbaceous/ improvement. “These are Cabernet Sauvignon rich cabernet fruit, lovely2008 HHHH oaky nose and a rich, drinking remarkably well 2006 HHHH firm tannins and someGood depth of attractive ripe and generous palate but without excitement.” Warm, generous and nice oak. $35perfumed aromas - quite showing some alcohol Bird in Hand well-balanced winemature. Chocolaty palate heat. $25 Adelaide Hills that’s ageing very nicely.has life, richness and Cabernet Sauvignon Some lovely honest,weight with an attractive Angas Plains Estate 2009 HHHH1/2 sweet varietal fruit. Veryfleshy texture. $29.99 PJ’s Langhorne Creek Classic dark coffee/berry good cabernet. $35Malone Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon aromas with a slight leafy Yalumba FDR1ACabernet Sauvignon 2007 HHH1/2 green edge, and a very Barossa Cabernet2008 HHHH Subdued earthy/toasty varietal Christmas pudding Sauvignon Shiraz“A porty brute,” bouquet with spicy notes. of a palate with persistent 2008 HHH1/2according to one judge. Palate structurally great - flavours and decent oak Attractive, juicy varietalNice concentration generous and round with integration. $35 with pleasing jubey sweetof ripe varietal fruit good wood. $25 fruit on a full-bodied palatecharacters. Rich without Kies Chaff Mill B3 Wines Pauline showing a decent flavourbeing overly sweet. $25 Barossa Valley Barossa Cabernet length. $39.95Possums Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2008 HHHH Fraser Gallop EstateMcLaren Vale 2007 HHH Solid wine not giving Estate GrownCabernet Sauvignon Good wine from a much away at the Margaret River2007 HHH1/2 tough year. Nice rustic moment, but it’s all Cabernet SauvignonSound, chocolaty characters and fleshy there - it just needs 2009 HHH1/2Bordeaux style with the texture. $25 time. Some lovely Quite a rich, full-bodiedattractive varietal fruit varietal fruit with well- wine with a strongnicely balanced by some matched oak. $38 tannic backbone anddrying oak. $25 lovely pure varietal fruit expression. $37 Pertaringa Rifle & Hunt Adelaide Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 Concentrated colour with pure varietal fruit and the oak sitting nicely. Some decent tannins evident. Sweet on the finish. $39 Sticks No.29 Yea Valley Cabernet Shiraz 2007 HHH Attractive minty aromas and a palate full of fruit with nice layers of tannins. $35 Salena Estate Founders’ Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Shy, slightly spicy, nose and a palate that has a good hit of flavour and shows some depth. $39.99120 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

varietal tastingWere Estate TeAwa Hawkes Bay Black WattleThe Griffith Margaret Cabernet Merlot Vineyards Mt BensonRiver Cabernet 2009 HHH Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon Merlot Nice straightforward 2008 HHHHHCabernet Franc Petit varietal. Lovely colour, Poised, elegant wine withVerdot 2008 HHH smells of cherries and aromas reminiscent ofEasy-drinking wine has a solid palate. $36 forest floors. Great palateshowing nice - generous, balanced andmaturation, and long, CABERENT refined, with excellentpersistent flavours with & BLENDS fruit and lovely barrelleathery notes. $35 $40-$50 ferment influence.Sandalford Estate A class act. $40.99Reserve Margaret 28 TASTED Wolf Blass Grey LabelRiver Cabernet 22 AWARDED Langhorne CreekSauvignon 2008 HHH Cabernet SauvignonSolid, robust wine Another solid group 2008 HHHHHwith very impressive from two difficult Has poise andstructure and quite vintages - 2007 and personality and isstrong menthol/eucalypt 2008. We are beginning very claret-like. Strongcharacters. $39.95 to see some movement menthol-like characterLake Breeze Arthur’s at the higher-scoring on the nose andReserve Langhorne end which is expected an excellent palateCreek Cabernet at this price point. structure showing greatSauvignon Malbec fruit and oak balance.2007 HHH Still very fresh. $40Dark, dense and inky Jokers Peakon the nose, and quite Volcanics Caberneta tannic varietal palate. SauvignonShowing some age. $35 2009 HHHH1/2 “A serious cabernet,” said one judge. Firm, solid, well-structured wine that’s pristine-clean with lovely leafy aromas and beautiful jubey fruit flavour persistence. $40Preston Peak Saracen Estates King’s of KangarooCabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Ground The PedersenCarmenere 2008 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Yarra ValleyLifted, leafy, blackcurrant 2008 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignonaromas. Quite a tannic Supple, juicy, peppery 2008 HHHHpalate with nice varietal varietal that one judge One judge found thisfruit/oak flavours. $38 thought “flirts with cabernet had “vibrant,Redgate Margaret greenness”. Decent hit sexy aromas”. SolidRiver Cabernet of perfumed fruit with palate with good lengthSauvignon 2009 HHH good oak balance - a little and powerful oak but theQuite firm and tannic, charry on the finish. $40 wine can handle it. $40with minty notes. Berryfruit dominated by theoak for now. $35 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 121

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSJokers Peak Geoff Merrill Plantagenet Mount Howard Park Leston Yalumba TheVolcanics Reserve Coonawarra Barker Cabernet Margaret River Signature BarossaCabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale Sauvignon 2008 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon2008 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Solid wine with ripe, 2009 HHH Shiraz 2006 HHHHHThe nose isn’t giving 2004 HHH1/2 peppery varietal fruit Elegant, medium-bodied Serious stuff! “It’s allmuch away but there’s Mature drink but it’s aromas and flavours. varietal with raspberry- there,” said one judge.plenty of rich sweet sound and alive and Soft and easy in the like fruit characters. $40 Loads of sweet, ripefruit on the very holding up well. Plenty mouth. $44 and very bright blackappealing, solid palate of fruit left, supported by Zema Estate Geoff Merrill Reserve fruits with lovely oakwith its background of soft, ripe tannins. $45 Family Selection Coonawarra McLaren integration. The palate isripe tannins. $40 Laurance of Coonawarra Cabernet Vale Cabernet generous, well balancedGeoff Merrill Margaret River Icon Sauvignon 2006 HHH Sauvignon 2001 HHH and very long. $52.95Reserve McLaren Margaret River “This is no shrinking Rich, old and very solid Yalumba TheVale Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon violet,” said one judge. wine with some fruit still Menzies CoonawarraCabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 Big, rich, full-bodied showing through. Nice Cabernet Sauvignon2002 HHHH Solid and honest wine wine with powerful persistent finish. $40 2007 HHHH1/2“A successful warmer- loaded with aromatic, tannins. $45 Big, solid style withregion style,” said one juicy fruit. Has a smoky Stonyfell Credaro Margaret great dense colour.judge. Very interesting touch with balancing Bin 62 Langhorne River Cabernet Still fresh and youthfulfruit characters with tannins. $40 Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH and has some veryearthy/mushroomy Jacob’s Creek St Sauvignon Shiraz Simple style with attractive cabernet fruitnotes, nice acid and Hugo Coonawarra Malbec 2009 HHH nice jammy varietal with good wood - a tadtannins. $40 Cabernet Sauvignon Perfumed nose with fruit, some spice and dominant - and warmingBrown Hill Great 2007 HHH1/2 some stalkiness, and a moderate tannins. $40 alcohol. $52.95Boulder Margaret Very bright, fresh simple, well-structuredRiver Cabernet cabernet with a strong palate. $40.99 CABERNET ShinglebackShiraz Merlot mintiness on the nose & BLENDS D Block ReserveMalbec 2008 HHH1/2 and a palate filled with Kimbolton Wines $50-$100 McLaren ValeInteresting, pretty wine flavours of cherries and The Rifleman Cabernet Sauvignonwith plenty of nutty, raspberries. $49.99 Langhorne Creek 38 TASTED 2006 HHHH1/2Christmas cake-like Clairault Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 33 AWARDED Some really good varietalcharacters on nose and Margaret River 2008 HHH fruit here, nicely matchedpalate. Has substance Cabernet Sauvignon Savoury style with The judges had their by a decent amount ofand weight. $40 2007 HHH1/2 beautiful briary fruit and favorites in this group. pencil shavings-like oak.Katnook Estate “A charming wine,” some lovely oak. Sweet Some preferred the Great palate structureThe Caledonian thought one judge, on the finish. $42 refined and elegant, and length - evolving veryCoonawarra with cool aromatics on Deep Woods Estate while others went for nicely. $59.95Cabernet Sauvignon the nose and a poised Reserve Margaret the higher-flavoured Devil’s LairShiraz Petit Verdot cherry fruit palate. $47 River Cabernet oak and ripe-fruit wines; Margaret River2009 HHH1/2 Thompson Estate Sauvignon 2008 HHH there’s a market for both Cabernet SauvignonDense, dark aromas with Margaret River Big, bold, straightforward styles. In this class at 2009 HHHHpencil shavings-like oak Cabernet Sauvignon cabernet with slightly least we have a higher “Pretty serious wine,”and a pretty, mouthfilling 2007 HHH1/2 stewed fruit and a touch quality consistency. declared one judge. Big,palate with some decent Well-put-together, woody. $45 dark, charry cabernet withflavours. $45 full-flavoured wine with Brookland Valley plenty of sweet berry-like some smoky notes on Reserve Margaret fruit and a super-long, the nose and a generous, River Cabernet firm palate. $65 balanced palate. $40 Sauvignon 2004 HHHHH STAR RATINGS  “This is good!” enthused one judge. “It’s lively,Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of ripe, long and delicious.”excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Very savoury styleAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry of cabernet with theprofessionals and are compared in peer slightest green touch toclasses by three judges. the varietal fruit. $70CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business. Penfolds Bin 407CD Cellar door price. South AustraliaCDO Cellar door only. Cabernet SauvignonSO Sold out. 2008 HHHHH$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Super-ripe, fruit-packed wine with loads of Contact information pg 168. tannins and a great future. Sweet, fruity nose RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). and impressive mouth- coating fruit intensity with loads of great flavours. Just needs time. $54.99122 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

varietal tastingThomas Hardy Bird in Hand Nest Watershed Juniper Estate Houghton GladstonesCoonawarra Egg Adelaide Hills Awakening Margaret River Margaret RiverAdelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 2007 HHH1/22006 HHHH Ripe minty/menthol 2008 HHHH “Big, alcoholic, in-your- Great wine - very youthful,Quite a refined and varietal fruit with some Stylish wine with poise face, wine,” said one with an excellent flavourelegant drink that has solid charry oak sitting on and grace. Dense and judge. Very solid black profile and structure.real style. Impressive top. Juicy palate, quite inky, with pure varietal varietal fruit and lovely fine Lovely oak use and fresh,mocha and varietal fruit soft in the mouth. Shows fruit showing a hint of tannins. Impressive! $50 bright fruit. $70flavour combination. ageing potential. $75 mint and spices giving it Majella The Malleea Sacred HillSolid wine that is almost Saracen Estates a lovely lively lift. $89.95 Coonawarra Helmsman Hawke’sworth a gold! $99 Reserve Margaret Glaymond Distinction Cabernet Sauvignon Bay Cabernet MerlotPindarie Black River Cabernet Barossa Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH1/2Hinge Reserve Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Lively, lifted varietal with Good, ‘honest’ styleBarossa Valley 2008 HHHH 2006 HHHH an abundance of sweet showing lots of potential,Cabernet Sauvignon “Has class and good Distinctly warm-region oak that is carried well lovely colour, doughy2008 HHHH breeding,” said one style - very rich, nicely by the significantly leafy nose and a rich and veryNicely maturing Barossa judge. Lifted, slightly layered and evolving varietal fruit. $75 dense palate. $64.99cabernet - a touch oaky leafy, bouquet and good well. Exhibits hints of Kinlock Wines Maryfor now - with plenty of varietal characters on forest floor and hessian Friend Mansfieldprune-like fruit complexing the attractive and stylish bag characters. $90 Cabernet Sauvignonnicely. Excellent palate palate. $70 Harcourt Valley Merlot Cabernetstructure. $55 Vineyards Bendigo Franc 2006 HHH1/2 Old Vine Cabernet Quite developed; Sauvignon showing its age. Fruit still 2009 HHHH there but starting to fade. ‘Friendly’ and very Simple, down-the-line flavoursome wine that’s style. Drink now. $50 most approachable and Sirromet Le Sauvage is brimming over with Granite Belt somewhat stewed red Cabernet Shiraz fruit characters. $60 2009 HHH1/2 Chateau Leoville Very mellow and Barton La Reserve ‘together’ for an ‘09; St Julien Cabernet developing nicely. “It’s Blend 2006 HHHH rounded, stylish and very Nose not giving much satisfying,” summed up away but it has a solid, one judge. $55 nicely weighted palate with very firm tannins that almost overwhelm some nice varietal fruit characters. $79.99SIMON HACKETTFourth generation, Barossa Valley born, TRADE ENQUIRIES:Winemaker Simon Hackett established his winery S.A. Chace Agencies 08 8363 7881 [email protected] a fertile hill overlooking McLaren Vale over VIC Working Wine 0407 053 663 [email protected] years ago. Simon Hackett produces a stunning NSW Estate Wine Distributors [email protected] of wines including the very popular limited QLD Estate Wine Distributors 0405 106 207 [email protected] Anthony's Reserve Shiraz and Foggo UK & Europe - ABS Wine Agencies [email protected] Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Drop into Hong Kong - Vins de France Corp (ABS Asia Ltd) [email protected] cellar door for a tasting and take in the Simon Hackett Wines, Budgens Road, McLaren Valestunning panoramic views. (08) 8323 7712 [email protected] July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 123

CABERNET SAUVIGNON & BLENDSReschke Bos Saltram Winemaker’s CABERNET Reschke Empyrean Chateau LatourCoonawarra Selection Barossa & BLENDS Coonawarra Premier Grand CruCabernet Sauvignon Valley Cabernet $100+ Cabernet Sauvignon Classe Pauillac2004 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2008 HHH 2004 HHHHH Cabernet BlendFull-bodied wine, almost Very flavoursome, full-on 19 TASTED Great wine ready for 2006 HHHH1/2mahogany in colour and style with good fruit 17 AWARDED drinking now. Great Powerful, long, firm,still holding together weight and long, firm As expected, this was varietal fruit sweetness middle-of-the-roadwell with stewed fruit tannins. $50 an exciting class of with very good oak on a style with a developingand soft tannins. $57 consistently strong mature palate exhibiting brick-red colour. QuiteWise Eagle Bay Leasingham Classic wines with levels of oak seamless balance, lovely savoury, with lots ofMargaret River Clare Clare Valley and levels of green or texture and extraordinary oak and very strongCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon ripe fruit changing the length. $115 tannin influence.2009 HHH1/2 2005 HHH scores from one wine to Wolf Blass Black Accomplished, ratherBig, bold and very brash Intense varietal fruit and another. As one judge Label Langhorne than exciting. $794cabernet with charry/ nice oak use equates to put it, “We have degrees Creek McLaren Houghton Jack Mannmeaty characters a solid wine with a good of ‘likeness’ here.” Vale Barossa Valley Frankland Riverdominating and some flavour profile. $55 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignonpowerful tannins. $50 Sandalford Stonyridge Larose Shiraz Malbec 2007 HHHH1/2Giaconda Victorian Prendiville Reserve Waiheke Island NZ 2004 HHHHH Vivid purple wine withAlps Cabernet Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Big, syrupy, super- intense and very youthfulSauvignon 2003 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Malbec Petit ripe monster - very blackcurrant varietal fruitVery mature and starting 2008 HHH Verdot 2006 HHHHH youthful and with great with an excellent gripto get tired but it’s still Robust style with Elegant, refined cabernet concentration and power. of acid. “A very stylishthere. Earthy richness big, ripe, black fruit with loads of lovely Layers of flavour, loads cabernet,” noted onewith green notes. $90 characters and solid perfumed varietal fruit of oak, superb tannin judge. $110King’s of Kangaroo tannin backbone. $90 expression on both nose structure and lively acidity.Ground The Pedersen Hentley Farm von and palate. Bright and “Nice work!” $120Yarra Valley Kasper Barossa fresh and has it all - it’s Wolf BlassCabernet Sauvignon Valley Cabernet just young but with scope Black Label Barossa2006 HHH Sauvignon 2009 HHH to develop. $200 (NZ) Valley LanghorneWarm and intense, with Sweet fruit aromas Moss Wood Creek McLaren Valedeveloped aromas and with a subtle oak Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignonenough fruit on the palate. influence. Soft and silky Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2005 HHHHHBig, tannic end. $50 in the mouth, with nice 2007 HHHHH Lovely ripe, juicy,Penfolds Bin 389 tannins. $77.50 Fresh and solid wine traditional Aussie styleSouth Australia Sirromet LM with intense, youthful with complex layering ofCabernet Shiraz Private Collection colour and a harmonious, fruit and oak characters2008 HHH Granite Belt oak-driven bouquet. The wrapped in an excellentRich, ripe, primary style Cabernet Sauvignon powerful and beautifully tannin structure. Verywith lovely spicy licorice Petit Verdot Merlot structured palate has good wine. “This isfruit characters and nice 2009 HHH a big hit of oak. Easy- class,” concluded onefleshiness on the mid- Simple, one-dimensional drinking style. $110.99 judge. $120palate. $64.99 wine with nice spicyAlkoomi fruit characters showingBlackbutt Frankland leafy elements. $50River CabernetSauvignon MalbecCabernet FrancMerlot 2007 HHHFull-flavoured wine withsweet berry fruits, robusttannins and showing nicedevelopment. $63.57Kies The Suit BarossaValley CabernetSauvignon 2009 HHHSweet, perfumed ripefruit aromas and quite asavoury palate. $60Voyager EstateMargaret RiverCabernet SauvignonMerlot 2007 HHHRich, dense and juicywine with very goodstructure and nice coreof varietal fruit. $60124 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

varietal tastingStonyridge Larose Cullen Diana Chateau Lafite | Barossa | Coonawarra | YarraWaiheke Island NZ Madeline Margaret Rothschild Pauillac Valley |Wrattonbully |AdelaideCabernet Sauvignon River Cabernet Cabernet Blend Hills | Heathcote | MorningtonMerlot Malbec Petit Sauvignon Merlot 2007 HHH1/2 Peninsula | Murray Darliing | YarraVerdot 2008 HHHH Cabernet Franc Petit Very leafy style with Valley |Wrattonbully | Barossa |Spicy and peppery and Verdot 2007 HHHH cigar box-like notes and Coonawarra | Adelaide Hills |typically a New Zealand Quite a shy nose but a savoury elements. Quite Heathcote |Mornington Peninsula |cool-climate style - very fine and elegant palate refined palate with a lotclassy! Savoury oak - that’s soft in the mouth of flavour. $1,108 | Barossa | Coonawarra | Yarralots of it but has enough with generous flavours Chateau Leoville Valley |Wrattonbully |Adelaidefruit to carry it. $190 (NZ) and lovely backbone of Barton Cru Classe Hills | Heathcote | MorningtonChateau Mouton ripe tannins. $102.99 en 1855 Saint Julien Peninsula | Murray Darliing | YarraRothschild Pauillac Wolf Blass Cabernet Blend Valley |Wrattonbully | Barossa |Cabernet Blend Black Label Barossa 2006 HHH1/2 Coonawarra | Adelaide Hills |2006 HHHH Valley McLaren Vale Restrained musty/ Heathcote |Mornington Peninsula |Smothered in oak but Langhorne Creek meaty nose - very Oldthere’s a good wine Cabernet Sauvignon World - with a palate | Barossa | Coonawarra | Yarraunderneath. The judges Shiraz Malbec showing warm fruit and Valley |Wrattonbully |Adelaidewere unanimous that 2006 HHHH grippy tannins - nice Hills | Heathcote | Morningtonthe wine was over- Big, fat, rich and jammy flavours! $201.99 Peninsula | Murray Darliing | Yarraoaked and suggested style with great fruit Mount Mary Valley |Wrattonbully | Barossa |too much influence from that’s been beautifully Yarra Valley Quintet Coonawarra | Adelaide Hills |Parker! $834 handled. Excellent 2005 HHH Heathcote |Mornington Peninsula | texture and depth with Nicely balanced, warming alcohol and an simple, slightly green, We’ve searched the oaky finish. $120 wine with subtle tarry country to unearth the Chateau Rauzan- fruit/oak characters. finest parcels of fruit Gassies Deuxieme Has “poise”. $136.99 from Australia’s best Cru Classe Margaux Henschke Cyril known wine regions to Cabernet Blend Henschke Eden proudly deliver this new 2005 HHH1/2 Valley Cabernet collection of regionally Complex aromas with Sauvignon 2003 HHH barnyardy elements and Very developed - past distinctive wines. a persistent, layered, its best but still a very leafy fruit palate with nice drink. Mahogany Celebrating 100 years fine tannins. $148.99 in colour and with a www.zilziewines.com.au Penfolds Bin 707 generous palate. $135.99 Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 Voluptuous wine with beautiful fruit, clever oak and underlying tannins. Needs time to settle and integrate. $189.99 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 125

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONSTHE LURE OF LUXURY and aperitifs. David is the kitchen maestro, turning out superb four-course dinners andFOR a region that is so popular with also running cooking classes.visitors, the Clare Valley is short onluxury accommodation - with one shining Thorn Park by the Vines is at Quarry Road,exception. Thorn Park by the Vines at Sevenhill. Phone (08) 8843 4304 or see www.Sevenhill is one of three standout regional thornpark.com.au. Doubles start from $390and city accommodation options in South (bed and breakfast) or $590 (dinner, bed andAustralia operated by the Thorn Park breakfast) with a two-night minimum stay.team of Michael Speers and David Hay -who operated the legendary Thorn Park PARTNERS’ NEW OUTLETCountry House at Sevenhill for more thantwo decades. THE O’LEARY Walker cellar door is one of the newest in the Clare, but HINT OF IRISH HERITAGE ERIN Eyes is the new venture for veteran winemaker Steve Wiblin, whose career path has taken him from Toohey’s brewery to jobs working for Wynns and Seaview, Penfolds, Seppelt and Orlando Wines. For the past decade and a half he has been a partner in Clare Valley winery Neagle’s Rock before setting up his own business, now This property offers boutique, small-hotel winemakers David O'Leary and Nick concentrating on making small batches ofaccommodation, with gourmet meals a Walker are veterans of the wine business. red wines using the standout Clare varietiesspeciality. Thorn Park on the Island is on Both worked for large companies for of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon.Kangaroo Island, while Thorn Park in the almost two decades, before combiningCity is a one-bedroom luxury apartment in to establish their own venture based in Steve no longer grows his own grapes butthe heart of Adelaide. the Clare Valley in 2001. They also now buys fruit from some of the best vineyards produce several wines from the cooler and growers in the valley and has set up a Each of the three Sevenhill suites has Adelaide Hills. cellar door in a former corn store in the historicits own view and private area. The suites village of Auburn at the southern end of thesleep a maximum of six people and rooms Their new cellar door and winery at the valley. The 1860s building is the ideal spot tocan be booked singly or as a group. The southern end of Leasingham is adjacentliving areas are light and open, looking out to the renowned Riesling Trail and offersover spectacular bushland and vineyards. fabulous views of the vines.They are furnished with artworks andantiques found by the owners on their Sample one of their tasting platters (eithertravels through Europe and the Middle dips, cheese or antipasto and charcuterie,East. An extensive library is crammed with with crusty bread from Burra Bakery) orinteresting books and many high quality art, over holiday weekends enjoy dishes likehistory, architecture and travel tomes and, Kapunda goat curry with jasmine rice,of course, many covering food and wine. pappadums and orange chutney, or a lamb burger on toasted Turkish bread Thorn Park by the Vines is fully licensed with braised red capsicum and tzatziki.and has an extensive cellar, mainly The cellar door is open Monday-Saturdayfeaturing wines from the Clare Valley, but 10am-4pm and on Sundays and publicalso French champagnes and quality spirits holidays from 11am-4pm.126 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

travelbriefsenjoy a glass of Erin Eyes Shiraz paired with a antiques, bric-a-brac, plants, books, The Barry boys are also currentlysteaming bowl of soup, homemade by Steve’s jewellery and fresh produce. renovating the Florita homestead Warilto,wife Lynette. Or, when the weather warms up, which will be set up as a weekend guestvisitors can take a glass of riesling outside to Riverton Monthly Market is held at house for up to three couples. Clos Clareenjoy in the sunny courtyard or linger over the Riverton Community Hall on the third is on Old Rd, via Cemetery Rd, Watervale,a platter of local cheese, dukkah and other Saturday of each month from 9am-1pm. and is open Friday-Sunday. Phone (08)locally sourced gourmet items. 8843 0161; www.closclare.com. Sevenhill Producers’ Market is at The name Erin Eyes pays tribute to Madonna Hall, Sevenhill, on the last Saturday MOULDED BY COPPERthe Irishwoman Steve’s English convict of each month from 8.30am-12.30pm.forebear John Wiblin married in 1843. KAPUNDA and Burra are two smallThe cellar door is at 24 Main North VENERABLE VINEYARD heritage towns near the Clare ValleyRd, Auburn. Phone (08) 8849 2260; that began as copper mining outposts.www.erineyes.com.au. THE FLORITA vineyard at Watervale, Both boast quaint stone cottages and originally owned by Leo Buring, is interesting historic buildings.STOCK UP AT MARKETS regarded as one of the finest riesling vineyards in the world. The vines are Kapunda, the former home of cattle baronVISITORS can pick up local produce shared between members of the Barry Sir Sidney Kidman, is best known for theand arts and crafts created by locals at family, with some of the fruit going to the huge statue of miner Map Kernow (the Sonseveral markets in the Clare region. Here Jim Barry label and some to the Clos of Cornwall), which greets visitors as theyare some of the most popular: Clare label, acquired by third-generation drive into the town. winemakers Sam and Tom Barry in 2007 Clare Valley Food Wine and Art and bringing the vineyard back under total Burra is a beautifully preserved littleMarket is held at Ennis Par, next to Barry family ownership. town with attractions including theClare Town Hall, on the first Sunday former Redruth Gaol and the Monsterof each month from 9am-1pm, with Clos Clare has recently joined the Mine, as well as Thorogoods of Burra (astalls selling local produce, wines, Great South Australian Wine Adventure boutique cider brewery) and the Uptownarts and crafts. scheme, an interactive South Australian Gallery. In the 1850s, Burra was second wine experience designed to attract only to Adelaide in population in the state. For more information, contact the Clare Valley Information Centre in Main North Rd, Clare. Phone 1800 242 131; www.clarevalley.com.au. Burra Market is conducted at Best new visitors to various wine regions LABELS WITH A BEATPlace, Burra, on weekend days on the around the state. The wineries involvedfirst weekend of every month (excluding each have a different ‘reward’ to give CLAYMORE Wines is one of the moreJanuary and February) from 9am-4pm. to people when they ‘check in’ to the idiosyncratic producers in the Clare,It is renowned for its local produce. scheme. Clos Clare, for instance, has a with all its wines named after famous pre-release shiraz on taste if you ‘check rock songs or artists. Wines such as Clare Showgrounds Country Market in’ at the cellar door. Other participating Dark Side Of The Moon Shiraz, Joshuais held at the Clare Showgrounds on the wineries around the valley include Jim Tree Riesling, Deja Vu Rosé, You’llsecond Saturday of every month from Barry, Pikes, Taylors and Kilikanoon. Never Walk Alone Grenache Shiraz and8.30am-1pm, with a range of stalls selling Walk On The Wild Side Shiraz Viognier have become collectors’ items among rock fans. Sample your favourites at their cellar door. The “Joshua Tree” cellar door, named after a U2 song, is in the hamlet of Leasingham. See www. claymorewines.com.au for details. Left & Centre: Thorn Park luxury accommodation. Opposite page. Above: Thorogoods cider makers ©SATC. Left: O’Leary Walker cellar door. Below: Claymore Wines cellar door. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 127

118 TASTED99 AWARDEDCLARE VALLEY& SURROUNDING REGIONSAn outstanding strike rate here, with the region showing Penna Lane Skillythat it is the master of mid-weight wines. Few wines Clare Valley Rieslingdisappointed, showing both the quality of the winemaking 2010 HHHHHand the fruit involved. While riesling is the pick of the Intense aromas of limebunch, look out for some great cabernet and shiraz wines. marmalade with a thread of tropical fruit. Lots of pure varietal fruit flavours on the palate, developing lovely complexity and showing crisp acidity. “A stunner!” 5+ $25SPARKLING OTHER WHITE Kilikanoon Mort’s VARIETALS Block Watervale Riesling6 TASTED 2010 HHHHH5 AWARDED 4 TASTED Intense floral/rose-like varietal 1 AWARDED fruit aromas with a slight mineralA group of clean, simple red and element. Very elegant lines towhite sparkling wines. “Nice “A small class with too many the clean, citrusy palate withdrinks but not outstanding,” wines made like riesling rather its crisp, zingy acid finish. Greatagreed the judges. than in the style the varieties cellaring potential. 5+ $22 deserve,” summed up one judge.Stephen John Clare Valley Reillys RockridgeTraugott Shiraz NV HHH1/2 Taylors Clare Valley Clare Valley RieslingAn “adult” sparkling red with Gewurztraminer 2010 HHHHHa creamy texture, sweet plum 2010 HHH1/2 Elegant, lifted, stone-fruit-likefruit flavours and underscored Great varietal; terrific fresh, aromas mingling with delicatewith lovely drying tannins. $25 pretty, floral/apricot nose and floral nuances. Creamy in the elegant, musky palate with mouth, with loads of lemonReillys Clare Valley crisp acid backbone. $18 curd-like flavours, crisp acidSparkling Riesling and slightly warming on the2010 HHH RIESLING finish. $13Nice yeasty/nutty complexityon the nose, and a pleasant, 28 TASTED The Wine Society Premiumlight and tangy palate. $18 25 AWARDED Selection Clare Valley Riesling 2010 HHHH1/2Stone Bridge Wines Stunning wines in a very Great aromatics of cutTwo Sisters Clare Valley consistent class from, arguably, straw, buttery toast andSparkling Pinot NV HHH Australia’s premier riesling lime marmalade. Developed,Savoury bouquet with minerally region. Lovely examples of complex and lingering mouthfulnotes, and a powerful and different styles, ranging from the of flavour reminiscent ofcomplex, honeyed palate. $20 tight, mineral acid to the floral marmalade on toast. $12.99 and fruity, the tropical fruit andLarra Pinta Clare Valley citrus lime styles. Lots to like! Claymore Wines JoshuaFrizzante NV HHH Tree Clare Valley RieslingMedium-gold sparkling with Leasingham Classic Clare 2010 HHHH1/2a fine bead, grassy nose and Clare Valley Riesling Elegant, lifted aromatic nosesweet, luscious fruit flavours. $20 2006 HHHHH Pauletts Aged Release of lemons and limes with Different style, with fresh, Polish Hill River hay-like notes. Up-front sweetHardys Oomoo Clare lively and intense buttery kero/ Clare Valley Riesling fruitiness on a palate edgedValley Sparkling Shiraz toasty nose and lingering, 2006 HHHHH with steely acidity and finishing2004 HHH buttery flavours on a heavier Greenish-gold wine with intense, quite austere. 3-5 $18Earthy oaky nose with succulent palate complemented by buttery, toasty bouquet edgedplum sweetness which is still-fresh crisp acidity. Lovely with kero-like development.echoed on the palate. $21 lingering finish. $40 Powerful, slightly sweet, flavours; slight oily mouthfeel and plenty of acidity. “Fabulous!” $40128 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

regional tastingCrabtree Watervale Kilikanoon Mort’s Rhythm Stick Wines Penna Lane Clare ValleyClare Valley Riesling Reserve Watervale Red Robin Clare Valley Riesling 2010 HHH2010 HHHH1/2 Riesling 2010 HHHH Riesling 2010 HHH1/2 Attractive fruit salad-likeAttractive complexity of rose The nose is a lovely perfumed Savoury, developed and slightly aromas and some delicate floralpetal and lemon peel aromas melange of lemons, limes, and honeyed nose, and very fruity flavours on a soft palate. $20with slight savoury notes. musk. On the palate there’s palate nicely wrapped in fresh,Lovely flavoursome palate with lots of fresh varietal fruit crisp acidity. $18 Taylors St Andrews Clarebalancing acidity and powerful, flavours and lively acidity. $35 Stephen John Watervale Valley Riesling 2010 HHHlingering finish. 5+ $25 Riesling 2010 HHH1/2 Great colour, funky/yeasty nose Crabtree Hilltop Quite a dry wine with a and serious acid palate. JustTaylors Clare Valley Watervale Clare Valley delicate floral nose and a firm needs time. 5+ $35Riesling 2010 HHHH1/2 Riesling 2010 HHHH beautifully crisp lime and lemonLight, lifted lime juice bouquet Lovely nose - smells like buttered palate. $25and a very elegant, pristine toast and lemon curd. Crisp, fresh Kirrihill Slate Creek SEMILLONpalate with fresh and lively fruit palate with slightly toasty Vineyard Clare Valley & BLENDShoneydew-like flavours. Good flavours. Good balance and plenty Riesling 2010 HHHacid spine balancing the fruit of length. 3-5 $22 Complex and delicious wine with 5 TASTEDsweetness. Hints of kero. $18 marmalade-like fruit characters and zingy acidity. $18.99 5 AWARDED Reillys Watervale Clare Jim Barry The Florita Valley Riesling 2010 HHH Very good class from a variety for Clare Valley Riesling Complex leesy, marmalade which the region is not known. 2009 HHHH aromas, and soft lemon rind Still lively and fresh, with plenty palate with zesty acid and of intense and complex aromas warm end. $18 and flavours of marmalade, preserved lemon and buttery toast and crisp acidity. $40 Stone Bridge Wines Clare Valley Riesling 2010 HHH Big hit of rose petals and musky characters on the nose, with some very pretty floral flavours. $18Glenholme Vineyards Rieslingfreak No. 3 ClareBlesing’s Garden Valley Riesling 2010 HHHSouthern Flinders Ranges Surprising toasty keroRiesling 2009 HHHH development for its age. SomePale gold colour with nice citrus fruit and powerful acid. Drink now. $20citrus richness on the nose, Richmond Grove Watervaleand slightly broad palate Riesling 2010 HHHwith great complexity of Delicate floral bouquet andvarietal flavours with some lovely steely palate with floralsavouriness. 3-5 $18 flavours. At least 10 years ahead of it! $21.99Leasingham Wines Pauletts Polish Hill River Jim Barry Kilikanoon BarrelWatervale Clare Valley Clare Valley Riesling The Lodge Hill Clare Fermented Clare ValleyRiesling 2008 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 Valley Riesling 2010 HHH Semillon 2009 HHHHHIntense, toasty/buttery, Gentle floral bouquet with Intense, complex, lemon, rose Intense, pungent lemon cordialdeveloped characters on fresh floral notes, and soft and and leesy aromas, and a tinned aromas with lovely toastiness andthe nose, and lingering, pineapple palate. Lots of acid. developing attractive pure varietaltoasty flavours with great grassiness on the palate, withdevelopment complemented 3-5 $19 oak ferment adding complexityby the acidity. $45 and crisp acid for balance. $20 delicate lime cordial palate with a crisp acid line. 3-5 $22 JUDGES Liz Heidenreich Jane Paull Mango Parker Winemaker, Sevenhill Freelance wine consultant, Scientist at the Australian Cellars. Has completed winemaker and wine Wine Research Institute. ten vintages including educator. She is a lecturer Previously with Southcorp four in Portugal. Associate in senory evaluation and as a graduate scientist. judge, Clare Valley fermentation technology Currently working on tannin Wine Show. Judge at at Adelaide University and and flavour development in Adelaide Hills and Small a coupe trainer for the wine. Has completed the Winemakers shows. Advanced Wine Assessment AWRI Wine Assessment Course. Regular national Course and is on the panel. and regional show judge. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 129

CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONS Taylors St Andrews Reillys Leasingham Kilikanoon Prodigal Clare Valley Chardonnay Tempranillo 2010 HHHH1/2 Clare Valley Grenache 2008 HHHH Up-front fruit sweetness, 2009 HHH Interesting complex, buttery/ followed by grippy tannins Savoury oaky nose with a hint peach aromas, and a creamy and the judicious use of oak. of roses, and complex palate palate with lingering mouth- Very varietal, with lovely long, with sweet raspberry fruit. coating, buttery/lemon zest lingering flavours. Very young;Glenholme Vineyards flavours - very varietal. $35 needs more time. 3-5 $29 3-5 $30Blesing’s GardenSouthern Flinders Ranges Annie’s Lane Clare Valley clos Clare Wild Oats Clare ValleySemillon 2009 HHHH Chardonnay 2010 HHH The Hayes Boy Watervale Tempranillo 2009 HHHDeveloped complexity on the Floral, peachy and lemon rind Grenache 2009 HHHH1/2 Complex, savoury/herbalvibrant melon/pineapple nose, aromas, and a simple, fruity Vibrant, lifted, raspberry bouquet, and sweet fruitand slightly oily palate with palate with crisp acid. $20.99 confectionery-like bouquet flavours with medium tannins.good flavour weight and nice with earthy/chocolaty notes.toasty maturity. $18 Bundaleer Clare Valley 3-5 $18.90 Chardonnay 2010 HHHThompson Estate Clare Lightweight, peachy aromas Stephen John TheValley Semillon Sauvignon and well-made peach/ Loquat Tree Clare ValleyBlanc 2010 HHH1/2 passionfruit palate. $17 Mourvedre GrenacheGood herbal expression to the Shiraz 2008 HHHdelicate nose, and a lighter- ROSE Sweet fruit driven style withbodied palate with fresh, lively, a creamy texture and lovelyherbal flavours. $20 2 TASTED spicy/earthy elements. $20 2 AWARDEDPenna Lane Clare Valley Stephen John Clare ValleySemillon 2010 HHH1/2 Intense and inky in the Pinot Noir 2008 HHHLovely delicate lemon/lime mouth, with sweet varietal Solid mocha and berry aromasmeringue-like characters on the Kilikanoon Second fruit flavours and dry, savoury and a lovely silky raspberrynose, and a palate with a good Fiddle Clare Valley Rosé tannins. 3-5 $22 palate with drying tannins. $25acid structure. $18 2010 HHH Smells of strawberries and MERLOTAnnie’s Lane Clare Valley cream and has a simple butSemillon Sauvignon Blanc pretty, sweet floral palate. $15 4 TASTED2010 HHH 4 AWARDEDDelicate, musky, green bean Claymore Wines Wholebouquet, and tight, well-balanced, Lotta Love Clare Valley Small but consistent group ofundemanding palate. $20.99 Rosé 2010 HHH firm, tight styles. Elegant rose petal and leafyCHARDONNAY fresh nose with delicate, Art Wine Tres Taylors Clare Valley slightly sweet, floral flavours. Amigos Clare Valley Merlot 2009 HHHH5 TASTED Good acidity. $18 Tempranillo Graciano Intense charry oak and spicy4 AWARDED Garnacha 2009 HHHH mocha characters on the nose, OTHER RED Bold minty/chocolaty nose - and vibrant berry palate withPleasant surprise for the VARIETALS quite tarry and complex - with peppery elements and softjudges, who found these & BLENDS a delicious mouthful of fruit tannins. $18wines had nice forward fruit to seamlessly blended with thesupport well-balanced oak. 10 TASTED oak and youthful tannins. $20 Reillys Leasingham 10 AWARDED Merlot 2009 HHHTaylors Clare Valley All earthy, spicy and licoriceChardonnay 2009 HHHH1/2 Glenholme Vineyards on the nose, with goodBeautifully developed, toasty, Blesing’s Garden concentration of sweet berryhoneyed caramel complexity on A class of quite young varietal fruit flavours. $29the nose, and creamy, viscous, wines which were well handledmouthfilling stone-fruit flavours and will improve with age. Lots Southern Flinders Ranges Glenholme Vineyardswith crisp acidity and a slightly of potential here. Nebbiolo 2008 HHH1/2hot finish. $18 Very complex, very funky, with Blesing’s Garden Southern Flinders Ranges tarry fruit and soy-like characters. Merlot 2008 HHH Good fruit flavour complexity with balancing tannins. 3-5 $20 Leathery/tobacco-like Claymore Wines You’ll development mingling with Never Walk Alone Clare Valley Grenache Mataro Crabtree Watervale savoury, spicy fruit and dusty Clare Valley Tempranillo tannins. 5+ $20 Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2 Complex, savoury, peppery Intense crushed ants, rose petals aromas and a velvety palate and leafy aromas. Slightly funky Larra Pinta Clare Valley exhibiting sour cherry flavours, palate with initial sweetness and Merlot 2009 HHH good use of oak and silky- grippy tannins. $25 Slight medicinal aromas and smooth tannins. Has a great rich mocha complexity to the funky character. 5+ $18 grippy, tannic palate. $20130 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

regional tastingCABERNET Crabtree WindmillSAUVIGNON Vineyard Watervale& BLENDS Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHHH1/221 TASTED Aromas of dark roasted coffee17 AWARDED and prunes lift off the nose, followed by a lovely velvety-The judges were unanimous that smooth palate with great tanninthis was an excellent group of structure and intense sweetwines, with the fruit sweetness fruit flavours. 5+ $25and tannins of the older winesholding up really well. Annie’s Lane Clare Valley Cabernet Merlot 2009 HHHH1/2 Shy, earthy nose with hints of berries, mocha and crushed ant elements. Smooth palate with intense raspberry/chocolateKirrihill Tullymore Vineyard flavours and firm tanninClare Valley CabernetSauvignon 2009 HHHHH backbone. 5+ $20.99Slight licorice-like characters onthe nose, blending with stewedred fruit and a nice earthiness.Youthful palate has great lengthof varietal fruit, acid and tighttannins. 5+ $18.99 Reillys The Dancer Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHHH1/2 Great colour, spicy/earthy nose with big eucalypt lift and rich and complex palate with lovely concentration and length of oak/ fruit/menthol flavours and quiteReillys Dry Land a hot finish. 3-5 $45Clare Valley CabernetSauvignon 2005 HHHHHGreat chocolaty, rich wine withloads of character. Leatherynose with a distinctive menthollift. Still plenty of varietal fruiton a palate with slight gameynotes, youthful tannins andwarming alcohol. 5+ $29 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 131

CLARE VALLEY & SURROUNDING REGIONSKilikanoon Blocks Road Stephen John SHIRAZ 2009 Heaslip WinesClare Valley Cabernet Clare Valley Cabernet Dayspring Clare ValleySauvignon 2007 HHHH1/2 Merlot 2008 HHHH 13 TASTED Shiraz 2009 HHHHRestrained but complex Attractive nose, quite reserved Ripe, slightly porty nose; a touch with dusty black fruit aromas 9 AWARDED of licorice. Big and fleshy in the followed by a nicely balanced and mouth, with lovely juicy sweetaromas of stewed fruit, mixed very elegant palate full of pristine fruit flavours and good use ofspice and vanilla, with up-front fruit and fine tannins. $15 oak. A different style. $18sweet fruit on a complex palate A class of well-made wineswith long, grippy tannins and a with nice oak balance; they justmocha finish. 5+ $33 need time to get even better but are still approachable now. Stone Bridge Wines ClareJim Barry The Benbournie Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2Clare Valley Cabernet There’s a smokiness to thisSauvignon 2004 HHHH1/2 Taylors Clare Valley intense, oaky nose, and sweetGreat colour, complex earthy, Shiraz 2009 HHHHHprune-like bouquet and a palate Robust purple shiraz with inky, fruit on the tingly, hot alcoholicbrimming over with sweet palate. Nice wine. 2-3 $20varietal fruit. Tannins still tight. rich, earthy/gamey aromas andHas plenty of length and great hints of crushed ants. Palate amouthfeel. $90 seamless integration of sweet Kirrihill Tullymore plums, earthy oak and silky Vineyard Clare Valley tannins. Good varietal fruit Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 expression. 5+ $18 Intensely peppery nose, allTaylors Clare Valley earthy and complex, and a soft,Cabernet Sauvignon approachable sweet berry/2009 HHHH1/2 cherry palate. Needs time.Complexity of earthy, mochaand ripe plum aromas, with 2-3 $18.99a juicy, fleshy, sweet fruit Kirrihill Clare Valleypalate showing great varietal Shiraz 2009 HHHdefinition and balancing Subdued, earthy fruit cake-liketannins. All it needs is more aromas and complex, spicytime. 5+ $18 fruit flavours. $13.99 Reillys Clare ValleyTaylors St Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon Annie’s Lane Clare Valley Claymore Wines Dark SideClare Valley Cabernet 2009 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHHH of the Moon Clare ValleySauvignon 2006 HHHH Red fruits, coffee and pepper Nice dry red style. Funky nose Shiraz 2009 HHHNicely integrated aromas of on the nose, with lingering, with soft licorice elements and Ripe, tannic number with up-plums and dusty oak with hints succulent sweet fruit flavours lots of fruit on a simple palate front stewed plum fruit. Needsof crushed ants. Palate still and good tannin balance. with some grippy tannins more time. $25retains fruit sweetness and to balance. Lingering on thetight, youthful tannins. $60 5+ $18 finish. $20.99Taylors Eighty Acres Clare Stone Bridge Wines SHIRAZ & BLENDSValley Cabernet Shiraz Clare Valley Cabernet 2008 & OLDERMerlot 2008 HHHH Malbec 2008 HHH1/2Lovely porty/licorice-like Rich and luscious, with an 18 TASTEDbouquet, with a fleshy, jammy, earthy/funky edge on both noseplum and black olive-like palate 15 AWARDEDshowing earthy notes. Goodacid structure. $15 and palate and lovely support from the tannins. 5+ $18 “Fantastic colours and excellent Leasingham Classic Clare age development,” said the Clare Valley Cabernet judges. Very consistent groupClaymore Wines Holy Grail Sauvignon 2005 HHH from a great mid-weight rangeClare Valley Cabernet Developed nose smells of of wines. It shows just howSauvignon 2009 HHHH dried fruit in brandy! Complex, well these Clare reds age!Big, tight, tannic style that mature flavours with grippyneeds more time to soften up tannins. 3-5 $55and is oaked with sweet plum Reillys Rockridge Clare Leasingham Winesfruit, anise, licorice and slight Valley Shiraz 2009 HHHH Provis Clare Valley Shirazearthy characters. $20 Kirrihill Clare Valley Fresh, lively rhubarb/strawberry 2006 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon fruit nose with peppery/mocha 2009 HHH notes. Pleasant berries and Lovely fruit cake-like aromas cream-like palate with lovely with a fresh, spicy lift and nicelyEyre Creek Subtle leafy, earthy plum softness in the mouth. $13 aged characters developing.Doctor’s Paddock aromas and a funky, powerfulClare Valley Cabernet fruit palate with powdery Much the same happening on a palate with a big, youthful, tannicSauvignon 2009 HHHH tannins. 3-5 $13.99 Crabtree Watervale Clare finish. A keeper. 5+ $125This one is a keeper with itsdepth of minty blackberry Valley Shiraz 2009 HHHH Lovely integration of whitefruit well matched with chewy pepper, plums and greenoak tannins. Nicely texturedpalate. 5+ $25 leaf characters with slight toastiness. Interesting fresh and lively palate with grippy tannins. 5+ $25132 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

regional tasting Lawson Wines Morton’s Glenholme Vineyards Vineyard Clare Valley Blesing’s Garden Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Southern Flinders Ranges Stewed prune nose with a Shiraz 2008 HHH touch of toasty oak, and a Ripe, complex juicy varietal fruit big, soft, sweet prune palate and dusty oak enhanced by a showing great structure. $18 silky tannin profile. $20Jim Barry Clare Red Jim Barry The McRae SWEET WHITESClare Valley Shiraz Wood Clare Valley ShirazCabernet 2006 HHHHH 2006 HHH 2 TASTEDThe nose is a complexity of ripe Lifted alcoholic fruit aromas 2 AWARDEDstone-fruits mingling with aniseed and nicely aged fruit oak palateand eucalypt. The palate has with plenty of tannins. $50 Annie’s Lane Clare Valleyintense spicy, eucalypt and sweet clos Clare Cemetery Botrytis Riesling (375ml)fruit flavours well integrated with Block Watervale Shiraz 2009 HHHHoak and acid. 5+ $16 2008 HHH Intense, apricot/botrytis-like Sweet dried fruit characters aromatics and a lovely creamy with a spicy element, good palate with very fresh, sweet, oak and grippy tannins with lingering apricot flavours. $25 alcoholic heat. $22 Jim Barry Lavender Taylors Eighty Acres Hill Clare Valley Sweet Clare Valley Shiraz Riesling 2010 HHH Viognier 2008 HHH Delicate apple blossom Complex, slightly developed bouquet and elegant, sweet wine with good spicy fruit, grippy riesling palate with nice sugar/ tannins and some earthiness. $15 acid balance. $16Annie’s Lane Pauletts Andreas Polish Reillys Dry Land ClareCopper Trail Clare Valley Hill River Clare Valley Valley Shiraz 2006 HHHShiraz 2008 HHHHH Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Very fruity bouquet and sweetFantastic, intense, inky-purple Good example of a shiraz from fruit flavours with mochacolour with aromas of raisins, a tough vintage. Savoury/ complexity. “Interestingdried fruit and spices and meaty aromas with leathery wine.” $21seamless integration of cedary complexity and lingering, nuttyoak and dried fruit flavours with sweet flavours with firm tannic Premium dry grown wines from thesweet, drying tannins. $53.99 structure. 3-5 $50 Clare Valley, South AustraliaKilikanoon Oracle Leasingham Classic Reillys Wines is aClare Valley Shiraz Clare Clare Valley Shiraz family owned2007 HHHH1/2 2007 HHHHGentle complex, earthy/ Leathery/earthy complexity and a business producingherbal bouquet with a spicy touch savoury on the nose, with wines of the highestlift, and showing great lingering, spicy, plum flavourspersistence of complex and some grippy tannins on the quality fromvarietal fruit flavours with a finish. 5+ $55 premium, low yieldyouthful tannic balance. $80 Clare Valley fruit.Heaslip Wines Stephen John Clare Valley Award winningDayspring Clare Valley Shiraz 2008 HHHH Cabernet SauvignonShiraz 2006 HHHH1/2 A gorgeous intense dark and and Riesling are justElegant style with a complex, spicy cool climate style of shiraz some of the wines inearthy bouquet showing a that’s great for drinking nowspearmint edge. Palate offers or you can cellar it for future our portfolio.a mouthful of beautifully enjoyment. 5+ $25 Visit our website forintegrated fruit/oak flavours andpowdery tannins. 5+ $16 Kilikanoon Covenant Clare stockists. Valley Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Big, rich and ripe, with the dusty oak tending to dominate some nice varietal fruit wrapped up in lovely silky tannins. $44 P: 08 8376 9563 reillyswines.com.au July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 133

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINMcLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEUCELLAR DOOR SHUFFLE Angove’s. The Angove family, who getting rave reviews for its lunches, which are this year celebrating their 125th are served six days a week between noonTHERE have been several cellar door anniversary in the wine business, plan to and 3pm (closed Wednesdays).changes in McLaren Vale - the most open a new McLaren Vale facility alongnotable being the departure of both with a range of new McLaren Vale wines Menu choices include the likes of bakedDowie Doole and Gemtree from their - the family company's first expansion out barramundi with a cucumber, ginger andlong-time home at the Salopian Inn. With of the Riverland in more than a century. smashed garlic salad served with a tomatothe McLaren Vale Brewing Company the “We didn't last this long by standing and lime vinaigrette; twice-cooked chickennew owner of the local institution, both still,” says John Angove. “We know that Maryland on warm puy lentils, sour cherry andDowie Doole and Gemtree have elected we need to balance our portfolio and the smoked speck salad; or Murray Valley porkto move to new premises because “we success of our McLaren Vale wines has cutlet on sweet potato gnocchi with sauteedwere no longer able to retain our wine encouraged us to put down new roots in spinach and a fontina and pine nut sauce.brand presence and individual identities the region.” There is a friendly, rustic ambience that has impressed recent visitors to whatas we wished, or offer our customers a CURRANT AFFAIRS was originally a timber and corrugateddedicated wine experience”. iron structure used to store dried fruit. RECENT changes in ownership and The new owners have retained the charm Dowie Doole set up an office on direction have given new life to McLaren but added some modern touches. TheCalifornia Rd, McLaren Vale, and had Vale icon The Currant Shed, which dates sunny courtyard is extremely popularthe foresight to incorporate a reception/ back to 1916. Now run by Hamish Maguire during the warmer months. The Curranttasting area in the plans. Dowie Doole will from Shottesbrooke winery - which is just a Shed is at Ingoldby Road, McLaren Flat;now offer exclusive, personalised tastings short vineyard walk away - with his partner phone (08) 8383 0232.by appointment in its new home for $10 Emily Dowie, the Currant Shed has beena person. The entire range is available COSY COTTAGESfor tasting and is accompanied by aselection of cheeses chosen by Dowie PEPPERMINT Farm Cottage offers delightfulDoole partner Lulu Lunn, co-manager of bed and breakfast accommodation withinSmelly Cheese at the Adelaide Central striking distance of several McLaren ValeMarket. For details of tastings and local cellar doors, including Wirra Wirra andcheese platters far from the madding Pertaringa. The cottages have two largecrowd, contact cellardoor@dowiedoole. bedrooms, spa baths and full kitchens.com, or phone (08) 8323 8875. A barbecue area with an outdoor setting overlooks the Turra Parri Creek. Each cottage Gemtree, meanwhile, has opened a new costs from $240 per night for a couple, withcellar door facility at 184 Main Rd, McLaren full breakfast provisions including eggs,Vale. Phone (08) 8323 8199. bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms, yoghurt, Meanwhile, two other new cellar doorsare on the way from Chalk Hill and134 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

travelbriefs an old trunk, a 1940s radio and dozens served with sauteed broccolini, parsnip of other “found” items that create a puree and a blueberry jus, or char-grilled comfortable shabby-chic atmosphere. beef tenderloin with asparagus. Antipasto There’s a lovely relaxed vibe, particularly and fruit/cheese platters are available to at weekends, when casual meals are share and there are specials and dessert served along with glasses of wine. boards to choose from. Former wine merchant Justin Lane, Ekhidna is named after a mythical Greek the man behind Alpha Box and Dice, goddess who was half nymph, half snake, produces about 3000 cases of wine a the mother of all monsters and defender of year, exporting much of it to Europe and vineyards. It’s at the corner of Kangarilla North America. His wines are named after and Foggo roads, McLaren Vale; phone the letters of the alphabet: the Apostle (08) 8323 8496. There are happy hours Shiraz Durif, Blood of Jupiter Sangiovese on Thursdays and Fridays from 4pm-6pm.fresh fruit, orange juice, cereal, bread,a selection of spreads, tea and plungercoffee. Peppermint Farm is at 85 Strout Rd,McLaren Vale; phone 0417 816 475 or seewww.pfcbandb.com.au.RURAL RETREAT Cabernet, Changing Lanes Tempranillo SUBURBAN CELLAR DOOR Cabernet and Dead Winemakers SocietyTHE WATERHOUSE Retreat is a stylish Dolcetto. So far he’s only used six letters THE PATRITTI family, based at Dovernew country escape in the Victor Harbor of the alphabet - and all his wines are Gardens, south of Adelaide en route tohinterland that sleeps up to 10 people. reds. But he says he eventually plans to the Fleurieu Peninsula, recently openedSet on five acres of rural land, it has a 20m cover all 26 letters. a cellar door facility just 14km from thelap pool, a cinema room, a quality sound city centre. The only fully functioningsystem and even a running machine. Alpha, Box and Dice is at Lot 50, Olivers winery and cellar remaining in suburbanGourmets will be in their element with a Rd, McLaren Vale, and is open 10am-5pm Adelaide, it is owned by second andfully equipped kitchen and an outdoor Friday to Sunday; phone (08) 8323 7750 or third generation Patrittis and welcomesdining area ideal for a group of friends visit www.alphaboxdice.com.au. visitors on weekdays and Saturdaysor a large family. The retreat offers views from 9am-5pm. Giovanni Patritti firstof the surrounding bush, where guests GODDESS FOR GOURMETS planted vines in 1926 but the growingcan sip a sundowner while gazing at business today has vineyards at Blewittkangaroos grazing, and is well situated EKHIDNA is one of the newest wining Springs and Tatachilla in McLaren Vale.for fishing in the adjacent Inman River and dining experiences in McLaren The cellar door is at 13-23 Clacton Rd,or exploring the region’s cellar doors. Vale, pairing a fine dining restaurant Dover Gardens; phone (08) 8296 8261 orTariffs start from $140 per person per with a cellar door and micro-brewery. see www.patritti.com.au.night, with a three-night minimum. Try wines under the Ekhidna and PaperSee www.vhwr.com.au. Eagles labels, along with starters such as Left: Patritti cellar door. Centre: Peppermint Farm salt and pepper squid with garlic aioli or lounge room. Right: Currant Shed courtyard dining.ALPHABETAL AMBIENCE Thai chicken noodle balls with sweet soy, Opposite page. Waterhouse retreat interior & lap pool. and mains including roasted rack of lambA VISIT to the Alpha, Box and Dice cellardoor is recommended for those whoenjoy an experience different to mostcommercial cellar doors - and is muchmore family-friendly. The cellar dooris in an old horse stable where thereare pinball machines to keep childrenamused, a table from an old courthouse, July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 135

304 TASTED157 AWARDEDMcLAREN VALE, LANGHORNECREEK & FLEURIEUAlways providing a strong tasting, this region rarely Currency Creek Estate CHARDONNAYfails to deliver when it comes to flavour. With Water Ribbon Fleurieu & BLENDSLanghorne Creek and Southern Fleurieu now included Peninsula Gewurztraminerwith McLaren Vale, we can also add finesse to that 2010 HHH 12 TASTEDequation. With Italian varietals coming to the fore, it Aromas of spices and rose 6 AWARDEDdoes create additional interest, but undoubtedly shiraz petals; lovely spicy lychee Some nicely made wines withis the hero in this region! flavours. A couple of years left well-balanced oak and textured in it yet. $17 lees-stirring complexity.SPARKLING OTHER WHITE Battle of Bosworth VARIETALS Possums Dr John’s McLaren Vale Chardonnay13 TASTED & BLENDS McLaren Vale Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH3 AWARDED 2010 HHH Classic ‘90s style with obvious 21 TASTED Long, well-balanced and nicely oak influence on the noseA group of borderline wines, 7 AWARDED textured wine with stone-fruit and good mouthwatering acidwith the sparkling reds the and honeysuckle characters. $28 interest on the palate minglingjudges’ preferred ones. General lack of varietal with nutty/honeyed notes. $25Too many wines were sweet characters across the board. Hugo McLaren Vale Lake Breezeand simple, aiming for the The better wines were fresh Sauvignon Blanc Langhorne Creekbroader market. The better and lively but also had that extra 2010 HHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHHones had quality base material. dimension of natural flavour. Fruit tingle nose – smells of Big, oaky chardonnay with a gooseberries with similar flavours lovely bouquet. Attractive floralBlackbilly McLaren Vale Spring Seed Wine Co. on the greenish acid palate. $10 notes and fresh, lifted line ofSparkling Shiraz NV HHH Forget Me Not McLaren acid with lots of vanillin oak.Lovely fruity quaffer, beautifully Vale Sauvignon Blanc Parri Estate Estate Very stylish. $19balanced and not too sweet, Semillon 2010 HHHH Grown Southern Fleurieu Ingoldby McLaren Valewith quality fruit. $20 A lot happening here. Savagnin 2010 HHH Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 Extremely fruity nose with a Funky nose with mealy “A good example of an AussieBraydun Hill Crimson Silk good gooseberry lift. Nice fresh aromatics, and a textured palate chardonnay reinvented!”McLaren Vale Sparkling slatey/green apple palate with with good leesy flavours. $18 said one judge. Fresh, liftedShiraz 2008 HHH excellent length. $15 Burgundian style with smokySmells of raspberries and RIESLING notes. $19.99cranberries and has a sweet but Langhorne Creek Estate Shingleback McLaren Valewell-put-together palate. $21 Bushy Road Langhorne 6 TASTED Chardonnay 2010 HHH Creek Marsanne Rousanne 3 AWARDED Lovely, delicate wine with a 2010 HHHH buttered popcorn nose and Nice balance of the two Some good varietal rieslings a steely edge to the sweet varieties, creating a perfumed but without great distinction. palate. $18.95 lemon marmalade nose and excellent length of red Ballast Stone Currency Rock Bare McLaren Vale apple-like flavours with spicy Creek Riesling 2010 HHH Chardonnay 2010 HHH touches. $19.99 Fresh, lifted, steely fruit aromas Creme caramel-like nose and delicate palate with intense and sour, grippy palate with lime juice flavours. 5+ $17 honey and apricot flavours emerging. $17.95 Paper Eagle Bird of Prey Fleurieu Peninsula Riesling 2008 HHH Lovely varietal nose and interesting slightly lemony and quite funky palate. $19.95Pirramimma Gilded Lily Zonte’s Footstep Sea d’Arenberg The StumpMcLaren Vale Sparkling Mist Langhorne Creek Jump McLaren ValeShiraz NV HHH Verdelho 2010 HHH Riesling 2009 HHHPlum jam-like nose and intense, Tropical fruit and orange Floral nose with some bottlesweet plum palate; some blossom on the nose, then an age and developing a complexwood. $14 austere and zesty, feijoa-like flavour profile. $11 palate. $15.99136 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

regional tastingFox Creek McLaren ValeChardonnay 2010 HHHVery caramelly nose. Verysweet palate and mouth-puckering acidity. $17ROSE7 TASTED3 AWARDED“Sweetness is critical here,” The Islander Majesticnoted the judges. A few nice Plough Kangaroo Islandquaffers, with a crisp and clean Malbec 2006 HHHHfinish being the key. “This wine is proof that 2006 was a brilliant vintage,” said one judge. Very fresh, floral fruit with crushed herb notes. Still has loads of tannins. $37Geoff Merrill Bush Vine Currency Creek EstateMcLaren Vale Grenache Carabid Fleurieu PeninsulaRosé 2010 HHHH Nebbiolo 2010 HHH1/2Classic benchmark that’s clean Very young and interesting,and bright with deep pink hues. medium-bodied wine with niceFresh, lifted fruit on the nose spicy/peppery notes and someand some nice confectionery soy-like characters. $17fruit flavours. $20 Nashwauk McLaren Vale Tempranillo 2009 HHH1/2Amphora Cartel McLaren Excellent varietal with fabulousVale Shiraz Rosé 2010 HHH length and concentration ofInteresting, funky nose and oak, fruit and savoury tannins.simple, sweet and savoury Nice spiciness. $25palate with plenty of length. $13 Chapel Hill McLaren Vale Mourvedre 2009 HHH1/2Scarpantoni Ceres A varietal showing greatRosé 2010 HHH potential for the region, offeringVery pretty, lifted floral nose licorice, mushroom and earthyand intensely flavoured palate characters. $30with zesty fresh acidity. $14 Seaview Winery Special Vintage McLaren ValeOTHER RED Barbera 2010 HHHVARIETALS Fresh, lifted berry bouquet and& BLENDS simple palate with tight fruit and good savoury length. $17.9922 TASTED Seaview Winery Special14 AWARDED Vintage McLaren Vale Sangiovese 2010 HHHVery interesting, solid group. Meaty/smoky aromas, with“The secret here is to get meaty characters carryingthe required ripeness of fruit through onto the balancedand embrace the natural palate. $17.99savouriness of the varieties, Zonte’s Footstepwhile keeping the oak level Canto Di Lago Langhornedown,” said one judge. Creek Sangiovese Barbera 2010 HHH Light and lively crowd pleaser - classic McLaren Vale style of wine. $18.99 Karanto Langhorne Creek Aglianico 2008 HHH Subtle fruit aromas and good savoury palate with a tight acid line and simple, fresh tannin interest. $22 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 137

McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEUPirramimma White Label Vinrock McLaren Vale GRENACHE CABERNETMcLaren Vale Petit Verdot Grenache Shiraz Mataro BLENDS2007 HHH 2010 HHHH 13 TASTEDLifted varietal nose surrounded Subtle fruit cake and spicy 2 AWARDED 18 TASTEDby sweet oak, and very oaky aromas, followed by a lovely 4 AWARDEDpalate with the fruit to match. $25 intensity and length of Overdone tannins was the issue cranberry-like fruit flavours with with this group. “This region is Good wines were few and farHeartland Langhorne Creek attractive spiciness. $20 one of the best for this variety between here because thereLimestone Coast Dolcetto Rosemount Diamond but some winemakers are ‘over- were too many with green fruitLagrein 2009 HHH Cellars Fleurieu Peninsula adjusting’ in difficult years,” or sappy oak tannins.Delightful wine with super Grenache Shiraz commented one judge.plum varietal fruit, pretty oak 2010 HHHH Lake Breeze Bullantand lots of tannin. Cellaring Some pepper and cloves Penny’s Hill The Langhorne Creek Cabernetpotential. $27 on the nose. Powerful and Experiment McLaren Vale Merlot 2009 HHHH1/2 luscious mulberry fruit palate Grenache 2009 HHHH1/2 Great wine with a lovely liftedBlackbilly McLaren Vale supported by earthy tannins in Powerful wine with lots going cherry bouquet showingSangiovese 2009 HHH the background. $12.99 on. Smells of raspberries with attractive almond charactersWell-balanced, drink-now Blackbilly McLaren a perfumed/eucalypt lift and and long, intense, briarywine with a complex range of Vale Grenache Shiraz has a pretty cherry palate full of red fruit flavours on a well-aromas and flavours. $22 Mourvedre 2009 HHH lovely flavour intensity and nice structured palate. $15 Big, rugged brute of a wine that cedary oak in support. $30Kangarilla Road McLaren needs cellaring. Good balance Stonyfell Bin 62Vale Primitivo 2008 HHH of spicy mulberry fruit. $22 Vinrock McLaren Vale Langhorne CreekChristmas cake/brandy-like Shingleback Grenache 2009 HHH Cabernet Sauvignonnose and soft, flavoursome, Red Knot McLaren Cherry and almond aromatics Shiraz Malbec 2009 HHHspicy/earthy palate with silky Vale Grenache Shiraz with sweet raspberry fruit Great red fruit integrationtannins. $22 Mourvedre 2010 HHH flavours on the long, soft threaded with stalky green Big, tannic youth with restrained palate. $20 characters. Great flavour. $40.99Kangarilla Road McLaren raspberry aromas and tightVale Sangiovese 2009 HHH redcurrant palate. $14.95 MERLOT & BLENDS Tyrrell’s Wines RufusConcentrated fruity bouquet Blackbilly McLaren Stone McLaren Valewith slight menthol notes, Vale Grenache Shiraz 6 TASTED Cabernet Sauvignonand a fruit-dominated palate. Mourvedre 2010 HHH 1 AWARDED Malbec 2009 HHHCrowd pleaser. $22 Lovely spicy oak aromas and Some nice chocolaty good fruity palate with a five Disappointing class of complexity with big, ripeRenards Folly McLaren spice-like lift. $22 non-varietal wines. redcurrant flavours andVale Sangiovese Cabernet Dowie Doole G & T rounded tannins. $31.992009 HHH McLaren Vale Garnacha PertaringaInteresting and challenging Tempranillo 2010 HHH Stage Left Adelaide False Cape Unknown Sailorwine reminiscent of a savoury Bright, juicy raspberry/cherry Merlot 2009 HHH Kangaroo Island CabernetItalian style. $16.95 nose and simple, spicy berry Tight berry fruit nose with Merlot 2007 HHH palate. $25 some smokiness, and a A simple but nicely aged wineGRENACHE rounded cherry palate. $20 with cherry varietal fruit andBLENDS balancing acid/tannins. $1713 TASTED6 AWARDED“It’s the other varieties thatdominate the blends in thefirst year, but grenache comesto the fore with some age,”said one judge. The bestwines here had the best fruitand the best winemaking.DAY 1 - JUDGES Tim Burvill Mark Conroy Owner and winemaker Sales and Marketing Di Genders for Rockbare and manager for Pirramimma Winemaker for Genders Mojo Wines. Formerly Wines. Over 30 years McLaren Park Wines. winemaker with in the wine industry Three years as associate Penfolds Barossa including experience at judge at the Adelaide winery. Has a bachelor Krondorf, Mildara, Remy Wine Show. Seven years’ of Agriculture Science & Mildara Blass, Grant winemaking experience majoring in Oenology Burge and Serafino. Wine with Tolley’s Wines. and a graduate diploma panelist judge with his of Wine Business. previous wineries.138 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

regional tastingCABERNET Penny’s HillSAUVIGNON 2010 Edwards Road McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon3 TASTED 2009 HHH1/22 AWARDED Attractive, sweet wine well structured with nice fruit andParson’s Paddock subtle spice. Slightly hard acidLanghorne Creek Cabernet and supporting tannins. $24Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Pertaringa Rifle & HuntExcellent sweet cherry and Adelaide Cabernetmulberry varietal fruit. Easy Sauvignon 2009 HHHdrinking now, with the potential Some leafiness on the closedto be great in five years! $12.99 nose. Palate loaded with luscious cherry fruit, tanninsZonte’s Footstep and acid. $39Avalon Tree Langhorne Kangarilla Road McLarenCreek Cabernet Vale Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon 2010 HHH 2009 HHHCherry Ripe-like aromas, with Lean and tight, with chunkysweet blackberry and cherry varietal fruit, spicy oak andflavours nicely supported by tomato leaf characters. $20the oak. $18.99 Vasarelli Family Reserve McLaren Vale CabernetCABERNET Sauvignon 2009 HHHSAUVIGNON 2009 Intense, oaky style with good savouriness reminiscent of18 TASTED roasted fat lamb. $24.9910 AWARDED Chapel Hill McLaren Vale CabernetSolid class, with quite a few Sauvignon 2009 HHHoffering great ageing potential. Blackcurrant bouquet withMany are restrained and tight subtle oak. Lovely varietalat the moment but will gain characters on a palate withcomplexity in a few years. earthy tannins. $30Ballast Stone McLarenVale Cabernet Sauvignon2009 HHHH1/2Attractive and serious winewith subtle, cigar-like aromaticssubtly infused with roses andgreen tea! Lovely lusciousred fruit palate with someastringency. $17Aramis VineyardsBlack Label McLaren ValeCabernet Sauvignon2009 HHHH1/2Attractive and supple wine withan incredible concentration ofpeppermint-like characters.Smells of raspberries and tastesof satsuma plums. Just needsmore time in the cellar. $25Nashwauk Sylvan Springs Bell RdMcLaren Vale Cabernet McLaren Vale CabernetSauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2009 HHHBig, punchy wine that should Softly luscious wine withage well and exhibiting subtle sweet fruit and obvious baconyred cherry fruit with plenty of oak. Well made and veryoak, acid and tannins. $25 drinkable. $19.99 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 139

McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEUAnvers Langhorne Creek Fox Creek JSM McLaren Saddler’s Creek Bluegrass 90 Mile Currency CreekCabernet Sauvignon Vale Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet 2008 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH2009 HHH Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Traditional old-school style with Generous fruit weight withBouquet of redcurrants, and 2009 HHHH overt oak influence and sweet mouthwatering flavours. Willsweet fruit palate with high Classic blend and a very nice fruit richness. $32 be at its best over the next 3-5acid and tight tannins. $28 example of a wine exhibiting years. $20 perfectly balanced varietal fruit, SHIRAZ 2010 Battle of BosworthCABERNET delicate tannins and a good lift Preservative Free McLarenSAUVIGNON of oak. $22.50 8 TASTED Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH2008 & OLDER d’Arenberg 7 AWARDED Clean, young wine with big, The Laughing Magpie bright berry fruit and oak on the14 TASTED McLaren Vale Shiraz Lots of primary fruit, as to be back palate. $201 AWARDED Viognier 2008 HHH1/2 expected. “Some are too young Shingleback Described as “a funky thing” to be taken away from their Red Knot McLaren ValeThe judges were very by one judge, with its pleasant, mothers!” suggested one judge. Shiraz 2010 HHHdisappointed with the wines meaty nose, sweet, rich palate However, they were all fresh Lifted primary fruit aromas, withfrom this very hot year. Lots of and barrel ferment elements. $29 and lively and offer nice quaffing. spices and jammy berry fruitalcoholic, sweet wines without Shingleback Haycutters throughout the palate. $14.95any flavour development. McLaren Vale Shiraz Mr Riggs The Gaffer Viognier 2008 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale ShirazWolf Blass Grey Label Pretty bouquet with 2010 HHHLanghorne Creek Cabernet a sweet floral lift, and Good berry and plum fruitSauvignon 2008 HHH lolly-like fruit flavours with persistence, with good tanninBig wine with some great spicy/earthy characters length and good power on thevarietal fruit underneath the running through. $16.95 palate. $22tannins. Good acid spine. $42.99 Lake Breeze Bernoota Spring Seed Wine Co. Langhorne Creek Shiraz Scarlet Runner McLarenSHIRAZ BLENDS Cabernet 2008 HHH1/2 Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH Nice cabernet varietal lift on Pleasant, non-challenging wine17 TASTED the nose, with big fruit richness with nice fruit concentration.9 AWARDED on a tightly layered palate with Should age gracefully. $20 cabernet dominating. $19Good class, slightly above Ulithorne CHI McLaren The Black Chook McLaren SHIRAZ 2009average, with the vintage being a Vale Shiraz Grenache Vale Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2greater influence than the blends 2007 HHH1/2 Intense, dark purple varietal 43 TASTEDthemselves. The borderline Quite a big wine, with light, with some barrel ferment 35 AWARDEDwines either displayed excessive lifted varietal fruit and still elements on the nose and a big,oak or were overripe. showing a strong tannin profile juicy palate that has tightness, Very strong class. Lots of for a four-year-old. $38 texture and weight plus a long, McLaren Vale flavour that willMaxwell Four Roads d’Arenberg d’Arry’s soft tannin finish. $17 develop beautifully. AlthoughMcLaren Vale Shiraz Original McLaren Vale Ballast Stone Stonemason these wines are big on flavour,Grenache 2009 HHHH Shiraz Grenache 2008 HHH Currency Creek Shiraz juiciness and tannins they areSlight Christmas cake Some age on the nose. 2010 HHH1/2 all in balance.characters to the nose, and a Delicately structured palate Lean, clean and simple butpalate with sweet concentrated with nice varietal fruit displays good varietal characterfruit, very nice use of oak and characters. $18 and delivers a nice drinkingmild tannins allowing early Pirramimma A.C.J. experience. Would be greatdrinking. $19.95 McLaren Vale Shiraz Petit with red meat! $17 Verdot Cabernet 2007 HHH Rounded, chocolaty nose and a palate with very spicy oak, tight fruit and big tannin zest. $60DAY 2 - JUDGES Mark Maxwell David Bowley Owner and winemaker Technical auditor for the Corrina Rayment of Maxwell Wines. Australian Wine & Brandy Winemaker of the Winestate Born and raised in the Corporation (AWBC). Has 2003 Wine of the Year McLaren Vale wine previous experience as (Oliver’s Taranga 2000 region, Mark has been a winemaker at Simeon McLaren Vale Shiraz). making wine since McGuigan in Loxton and Formally winemaker at 1982. Legendary wine also Orlando Wyndham. Lindemans Karadoc winery family in the region. Conducted a vintage in and now back with Oliver’s. Burgundy in 2003. Judge at the Sydney & Adelaide wine shows.140 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

regional tastingRock Bare McLaren Vale Wirra WirraShiraz 2009 HHHHH Catapult McLaren ValeSolid wine with interesting Shiraz 2009 HHHHaromas of tarragon, lavender, Very rich and juicy style withbasil and chilli. Palate shows an impressive concentrationstunning length of spicy/ of zesty varietal fruit and slightchocolaty characters layered eucalyptus characters. Nicewith loganberry fruit. Give it body and good balance. $24time. $21.95Maglieri McLaren Vale Penny’s Hill Skeleton Key Shingleback Pertaringa UndercoverShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz The Gate McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz“An outstanding wine!” 2009 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHHHenthused one judge - has ripe, Big, licoricey wine with sweet Intense aromas reminiscent of Very concentrated, very rich, full-sweet, blackberry bouquet mulberry aromas showing a cherry liqueur and rich, but not bodied, chocolaty shiraz. Drinkingand a delicious long, velvety, cedary oak element. Tannic jammy, loganberry fruit flavours well now but will be reallylicorice-like palate - very well palate has loads of floral fruit with dark chocolaty oak. Needs fabulous in a year or two. $22made. $19.99 and spicy Christmas cake more time; has up to 10 years Dowie Doole McLaren characters. Very attractive. $35 ahead of it. $34.95 Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHH Ingoldby McLaren Vale Lake Breeze Bullant More complex style, with Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Langhorne Creek Shiraz subtle aromas, good varietal Very tight and elegant shiraz 2009 HHHH flavour concentration, with an interesting, melange of Slightly reductive nose but impressive length and some rosemary and raspberry aromas good varietal concentration attractive chalky tannins. $25 and hints of “cypress hedge on the palate, with nice clippings”. Inky depth to the long, tannins to carry it and good lingering palate. Time! $19.99 acid backbone. Has a funky element. $15IT’S HEATING UP, DON’T LET YOUR WINE! Most people have 6 to 12 bottles of wine that should not be kept at home. Those special wines you have been holding onto for years, waiting for that special occasion to pull the cork (or twist the cap as it may be). FOR THE COST OF A CUP OF COFFEE A MONTH Wine Ark provides: > CLIMATE CONTROLLED MANAGED STORAGE > FULL INSURANCE > 24 HOUR ONLINE ACCESS > HAVE WINE SENT DIRECTLY TO YOUR CELLAR > SELL YOUR WINE ONLINE FROM YOUR ACCOUNT > MANY MORE BENEFITS 1800 946 327 or visit www.wine-ark.com.au wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 141

McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEU Kangarilla Road McLaren Vasarelli McLaren Vale 2 Mates McLaren Vale Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHH Raspberry nose with biscuity Alternative, peppery style with Excellent shiraz with all the elements and a big, rich and leaner/greener characters and varietal characters. Has balance, powerful chocolaty palate. Still lots of spicy oak dominating length and intensity. $29.50 very young - give it time to the palate. $20.49 Eyre Creek really shine. $20 Serafino McLaren Vale The Brookvale Clare Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH Brick Kiln McLaren Vale Genuine shiraz with a eucalyptus A bit old-school, with a lot Shiraz 2009 HHHH lift on the nose and very elegant happening. Very sweet, chocolaty Massive wine with very warm, palate with nice length of fruit, richness and lots of alcohol. $30 wild bramble flavours and a fair oak and tannins. $26 amount of quality oak. “Has a Maxwell Eocene Ancient Sylvan Springs long life ahead of it,” according Earth McLaren Vale Shiraz Hard Yards McLaren Vale to one judge. $21 2009 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHH Lean and pleasant varietal with Simple floral bouquet and pretty,Haselgrove Willunga 100 McLaren a big burst of sweet fruit and lightweight palate with tanninsFirst Cut McLaren Vale Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHH good oak throughout the length exposed at the end. $14.99Shiraz 2009 HHHH Ripe black plums on the nose, of the palate. $45 Vinrock McLaren ValePepper and spice on the nose with a dash of spice and good Sabella McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHand lots of berries. Very rich length and balance of spicy Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Delicate and complex at theand pretty palate. “The wine plum flavours with subtle use Lovely savoury/sweet varietal same time, with excellentwill develop more complexity in of oak. $23 fruit with great oak integration. varietal expression. $20time,” predicted one judge. $18 Needs more time to express its Haselgrove full potential. $24.99 Bella Vigna McLaren ValeZonte’s Footstep Tapestry McLaren Vale McLaren Vale III Associates Shiraz 2009 HHHLake Doctor Vineyard Shiraz 2009 HHHH The Descendant of Powerful, slippery, juicy style.Langhorne Creek Shiraz Big, powerful wine with loads of Squid Ink McLaren Vale Brilliant concentration of lifted,2009 HHHH chocolaty oak complemented by Shiraz 2009 HHH raisined fruit and big oak hit. $25Well-made, chunky wine with stewed fruit characters. “One Leathery notes to the nose and James Haselgrovea fruit-driven nose and a big, for the oak lovers,” commented high acid palate with flavours of Futures McLaren Valepowerful, jammy palate with one judge. $25 black olives and cherries. $35 Shiraz 2009 HHHclean flavours edged with McLaren Vale III Associates Aggressive, inky monster withherbal-like characters. $18.99 Squid Ink McLaren Vale lovely layers of varietal fruit andRenards Folly McLaren Shiraz 2009 HHH chocolaty oak. $40Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHH Lively inky/meaty nose and Mr Riggs McLaren ValeIntense chocolaty bouquet velvety-rich palate with Shiraz 2009 HHHwith nice spicy/earthy notes. attractive sweet fruit. $55 Simple but very good wineVery ripe, syrupy, fruit-driven Maxwell Silver with sweet red plum fruit andpalate wrapped in some really Hammer McLaren Vale earthy elements. $50powerful oak. $19.95 Shiraz 2009 HHH Ballast Stone McLaren Good balance of varietal Vale Shiraz 2009 HHH STAR RATINGS  characters, plenty of length and Smells of coffee and Tim a hint of sweetness. $19.95 Tams! Very tannic, medium-Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Vinrock Scarce bodied palate. Rhone-like. $17excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Earth McLaren Vale Ballast StoneAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Shiraz 2009 HHH Emetior McLaren Valeprofessionals and are compared in peer Zesty, ripe fruit bouquet and Shiraz 2009 HHHclasses by three judges. caramelly palate with drying Oak dominates the nose andCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, tannins. Ready to drink. $35 it has a lean, tight palate witha major mail-order business. Tyrrell’s Wines Rufus good flavour intensity. $50CD Cellar door price. Stone McLaren ValeCDO Cellar door only. Shiraz 2009 HHHSO Sold out. Jammy/chocolaty nose and$N/A Price not available at time of printing. licorice/blackberry palate creating an elegant dinner Contact information pg 168. wine. $27.99 Vasarelli Family RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Reserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 HHH Dusty oak nose with slight Bonox element. Good oak/acid balance on the lean varietal palate. $24.99142 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

regional tastingSHIRAZ 2008 d’Arenberg The Footbolt McLaren41 TASTED Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH1/223 AWARDED Some lifted dark fruit aromas with a spicy lift, and a rich, juicySurprisingly good number of palate with a slight sweet/sourwines recommended here, edge and nice fruity end. $18considering the hot, dry vintage. Nashwauk McLaren ValeThe best fruit appeared to come Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2from earlier-ripening vineyards. Well-made, medium-weight wine with good use of oak and some very ripe, porty fruit with big alcohol hit. $25Anvers McLaren Vale Taylor Ferguson PremiumShiraz 2008 HHHH Selection LanghorneHas power and weight but is Creek Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2still a very elegant shiraz with Very spicy/cinnamon bouqueta tight acid backbone. High in with a ripe fruit background,alcohol but it is in check and and intense concentrationhas a lovely long, lingering of blackcurrant and plumfinish. $28 flavours. $14.99Brick Kiln Hardys Oomoo McLarenThe Groove McLaren Vale Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2Shiraz 2008 HHHH Subdued nose with slight spicyLifted, sweet, porty bouquet lift. Complex palate has big sweetand a mouthful of spicy earthy, fruit characters - a touch savouryblackcurrant flavours with nice and with a drying finish. $18oak and tannin weight and McLaren Vale IIIlength. “A good effort.” $36 Associates Giant SquidKimbolton House Ink McLaren Vale ShirazShiraz 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2Spicy, earthy, fruity wine with Lifted, chocolaty fruit nosebig, tight fruit freshness, a lot and tightly layered palate withof oak and some complexity very ripe concentration of soft,developing, “Quite feminine,” rounded, varietal fruit. $150observed one judge. $20 RosemountShark’s Block McLaren Balmoral McLaren ValeVale Shiraz 2008 HHHH Syrah 2008 HHH1/2Big, dark colour, creamy black Dark berry fruit aromas with afruit nose with a porty lift, and zesty lift. The palate has a lifted,nice complex varietal palate spicy oak profile with goodwith dense sweet/sour fruit varietal characters. $74.99characters. $42.99 Wolf Blass Grey Label McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Dusty, fresh oak nose and big, powerful flavours with lifted varietal fruit concentration and nice oak integration. $42.99 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 143

McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEULavina The Aurum Quarisa Treasures Rosemount District Karanto 7ARelease McLaren Vale Langhorne Creek Shiraz Release McLaren Vale Langhorne Creek ShirazShiraz 2008 HHH 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHH 2007 HHHH1/2Solid, meaty lift to the mocha Lifted oak/strawberry fruit aromas Big yet elegant wine with Classic, spicy shiraz loadednose, and a ripe, sweet palate with big, peppery hit. Hot and loads of very dark varietal up with medium oak intensitywith Bonox-like savouriness. $50 viscous in the mouth. $14.99 fruit, almost fruit cake-like in and exhibiting very nice earthyMaxwell Minotaur Brick Kiln McLaren Vale character. $19.99 primary fruit characters. HasReserve McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH good tannin structure and isShiraz 2008 HHH Excellent varietal with layers of Wyndham Estate George slightly hot on the finish. $22Pretty, fresh menthol characters big berry fruit, barrel ferment Wyndham McLaren Valeon the nose and a concentration and savoury elements. Drinking Shiraz 2008 HHHof licorice fruit flavours. $75 well now. $21 Porty aromas with mentholFalse Cape Ship’s Gemtree Vineyards notes that also run through theGraveyard Kangaroo Obsidian McLaren Vale clean, tight palate. $21.59Island Shiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHHElegant style, more in the Very porty nose with very ripe SHIRAZgreener spectrum, with nice sweet fruit characters on the 2007 & OLDERaniseed notes. $19 palate - matched by oak. $55Blackbilly McLaren Vale Paper Eagle 23 TASTEDShiraz 2008 HHH Linchpin McLaren Vale 15 AWARDEDExcellent varietal characters Shiraz 2008 HHHwith nice flavour complexity Porty nose with a slight VA lift Good line-up of drinkingand concentration. Grippy, and some really concentrated wines with a clear delineationtannic finish. $22 varietal fruit flavours. $35 between the 2007s and 2006s;James Haselgrove Braydun Hill the former exhibiting ripe, deadFutures McLaren Vale Shimply McLaren Vale fruit characters while the latterShiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHH were fresher, tighter and well-Big, sweet, old-school style of Medium-bodied alternative structured, as well as being stillshiraz with creamy licorice fruit style of shiraz - all floral, earthy full, round and juicy.and vanillin oak. $40 and slightly savoury. $15144 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

regional tasting Tintara Chapter 3 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Lifted, fresh fruitiness to the nose and a seamless, medium-bodied palate - lean and delicate, with good tannin support. $27PirramimmaStock’s Hill McLaren ValeShiraz 2007 HHHHElegant, spicy mentholcharacters mingling with primaryfruit aromas and beautifullybalanced, mouthfilling, chocolatytannins. $16The Old Faithful Café Sylvan Springs EstateBlock McLaren Vale Cyril’s Reserve McLarenShiraz 2006 HHHH Vale Shiraz 2006 HHHOld-style shiraz with smoky/ Lively, lifted aromas and ameaty nose and earthy dense and very powerful palatenuances. Palate offers a good with layers of chocolate andmouthful of rich, chocolaty berries. $39.99flavours mixed with fruit cake Gipsie Jack Langhornenotes. $50 Creek Shiraz 2007 HHHTatachilla Foundation Minty oak nose and very juicyMcLaren Vale Shiraz fruit palate with good tannins.2005 HHHH Has elegance and delicacy. $18Good drink with attractive Geoff Merrillvarietal fruit, good complexity, Reserve McLaren Valenice weight and length and a Shiraz 2005 HHHlong, lingering finish. “Drink Very savoury, complex beastnow,” advised one judge. $55 with good blend of primary andParri Estate secondary characters. HoldingPangkarra McLaren Vale up well. $55Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Morgan Simpson BasketRich, elegant wine with good Press McLaren Vale Shirazlength and nice secondary 2007 HHHcharacters coming through. Fruit-driven wine - very sweetHas some pepper and spice and slightly porty, with well-left. $22 handled oak. $22 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 145

McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK & FLEURIEU McLaren Vale Grape Wine & TourismWINERIES A B C D E F GH I J K LMNOP QR S T U V 1Australian Boutique Wines O15 2 The “Fleurieu Way”Battle of Bosworth* L24 3 Tourist Route 60Bent Creek N16 4 Shiraz TrailBraydun Hill Vineyard* J8 5 Dirt RoadChalk Hill Wines* K17 6 Railway LineChapel Hill Wines L11 7 Air eldChateau Reynella K1 8 Public LibraryCoriole Vineyards & Coterie L13 9d’Arenberg / d’Arry’s Verandah K15 10 Map Updated August 2009Dennis Wines L18 11Dogridge Wines Q15 12Dowie Doole L19 13Foggo Wines M17 14Fox Creek Wines K22 15Gemtree Vineyards L19 16Geo Merrill Wines M2 17Graham Stevens Wines P15 18Halifax Wines * M23 19Hardy Tintara J17 20Ho mann’s Wines P15 21Hugh Hamilton Wines L20 22Hugo Wines R15 23Kangarilla Road Vineyard & Winery Q17 24Kay Bros Amery Vineyard M13 25Lavina Wines J17 26Lazy Ballerina U24 27Lecon eld Wines K20 28Lloyd Brothers J15 29Maximus Wines* N16 30Maxwell Wines K16 31McLaren Vale Premium Wines J17 32Middlebrook Estate O18 33Noon Winery (cellar door seasonal) N21Olivers Tarranga Vineyards J14Oliverhill Winery J13Oxenberry Farm Wines K18Paper Eagle / Ekhidna Wines J18Parri Estate P16Paxton Wines H15Penny’s Hill & Mr. Riggs K22Pertaringa Wines O21Possums Vineyard* L23Potters Clay* L20Primo Estate L12Rosemount Estate L11Samuels Gorge O17Scarpantoni Estate Wines L18Sera no Wines J13Settlement Wines I16Shingleback Wine Q15Shottesbrooke Winery K16Tapestry Wines M19Wirra Wirra Vineyards P14Woodstock Winery & Coterie P14Yangarra Estate Vineyard J30Zimmermann Wines* Cellar Door by appointment onlyACCOMMODATION FOOD ATTRACTIONS3 Divas I17 3 Monkey’s Fine Food M26 Adelaide Biplanes F27Amande B&B H22 Awganix J17 Bella Cosa Gallery N17Amande at the Beach D19 Blessed Cheese J17 McLaren Vale Lavender M13Aunt Amandas Cottage U11 Christina’s on High M26 Medlow Confectionery J17Beachwoods Eco Tourist Park D22 d’Arry’s Verandah K15 & Fruchocs Showcase Q28Bellevue Bed & Breakfast J17 FINO L25 Magpie Springs L26Bethany Chapel B&B M20 Ho mann’s Currant Shed P15 Studio/Gallery/Cellar Door* N20Black Rabbit Cottage R16 Market 190 J17 Minko Wines K17Blushing Grape B&B K26 Middlebrook Estate O18 Red PolesChristina’s Cottage M26 Russell’s Pizza M26 The Chocolate BoxGui Al Mare D14 The Barn J16Hawthorne of Willunga B&B L25 The Kitchen Door Restaurant K22Ingleburn Homestead K22 at Penny’s Hill & Mr Riggs J15Linger Longer Vineyard H24 The Olive Grove D33Lot 7 Cottage N16 The Victory Hotel P14McLaren Vale Bed & Breakfast L19 Woodstock Winery & CoterieMcLaren Vale Lakeside Caravan Park K17McLaren Vale Motel & Apartments I17 McLaren Vale Grape Wine & TourismPeppermint Farm Cottage B&B N21 T. 08 8323 8999Rosebank Studio L18 E. [email protected] Vales B&B J16 www.mclarenvale.infoThe Blue Grape J30The Victory Hotel D33The Vintage I17Villa Grenache N16Wine & Roses I17146 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

regional tastingPossums Dr John’s Intriguing,McLaren Vale Shiraz rich and2006 HHH exotic.Dusty oak nose and big,alcoholic lift to the dense Three new exclusive winespalate. Drinking well. $35 available at Pertaringa Cellar DoorShingleback D Block Corner Hunt & Rifle Range Roads, McLaren Vale, SA 5171Reserve McLaren Vale Phone (08) 8323 8125 · [email protected] 2006 HHH pertaringa.com.auDusty/mushroomy nose andmellow fruit flavours withsatsuma plum characters.Popular style. $59.95Step Rd Langhorne Creek Pirramimma Eight CaratShiraz 2007 HHH McLaren Vale LiqueurLifted, spicy oak nose and lean Port HHHH1/2but masculine palate with good Lifted mocha bouquet withflavour persistence. $21.90 rancio nuances. Rich chocolaty/ toffee palate and nice quinceThe Old Faithful Top of paste characters on the finish.the Hill McLaren Vale “Great served as an aperitif,”Shiraz 2007 HHH said one judge. $16Nice balance of oak and fruit Dowie Doolearomas, with a long, thick, Sticky Bits McLaren Valeslightly porty, tannic palate. $50 Cane Cut Viognier 2010 (375ml) HHHHUlithorne Mix of honeydew melon andTrux Frugis McLaren Vale orange aromas, and a veryShiraz 2006 HHH sweet, lemon sorbet-like palateDisplays nice varietal balance with overt acidity. Would bewith interesting secondary great with cheese. $21.50development. Drink soon. $45 Scarpantoni Liqueur Muscat NVSWEET WHITES (500ml) HHH1/2& FORTIFIED Attractive, raisined aromas and great length of delicious,6 TASTED chocolaty/prune flavours - very6 AWARDED sweet. $30 Scarpantoni Liqueur Shiraz NV (375ml) HHH1/2 Nose resembles a mix of hay and stewed plum-like aromas, leading to a hot, inky, licorice palate. $30 Pirramimma Digby McLaren Vale Rare Old Fortified HHH1/2 Nice dry fortified with great length of prune, coffee and vanilla bean-like characters. $50Battle of BosworthClarence McLaren ValeSticky Semillon 2010(375ml) HHHHHBeautiful honeyed apricot/melon-like bouquet and anextremely luscious palateexhibiting wonderful freshfruit salad flavours. “I love it!”enthused one judge. $15 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 147

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINTASMANIAMONA, BUT NO LISA EXCEPTIONAL CAPITAL GETS TASTIER APARTMENTSTHE LAVISH $175 million MONA (Museum of HOBART has undergone something of aOld and New Art) has been a major tourism VISITORS to Hobart now have the chance culinary revolution over the past 12 months,drawcard since being opened earlier this to stay in a quartet of luxury furnished with several old favourites, includingyear at the Moorilla Estate winery property apartments in sought-after waterfront Piccalilly, disappearing, while Marque IVat Berriedale, north of Hobart. The long-held locations - ideal for long holidays or for moved downmarket and became M4.dream of entrepreneur David Walsh, MONA those who do not want to stay in a hotel. Theis designed to shock and offend, challenge, Admiral’s Collection comprises four stylish Former Piccalilly chef Iain Todd reboundedinform, entertain and provoke debate. private apartments, each with a different with two new eateries: the upmarket BatteryWhat was previously a small collection of ambience and style. Point Steakhouse in the former Piccalillyantiquities has been transformed into a three- premises and Ethos Eat Drink down an oldlevel multimedia museum of installations, The Admiral’s Loft is part of the same laneway in the city centre.paintings, light shows, mummies and African building complex that also houses theart. Artworks range from a stunning Sir The funky Ethos is open for breakfastSidney Nolan to one by British enfant terrible historic Henry Jones Art Hotel and is in the lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday andDamien Hirst. All have been selected for their centre of Hobart’s premier restaurant and breakfast and lunch Sunday-Monday andpoints of difference - and entry is free. tourism precinct. It has exposed beams, focuses on tapas plates and interesting two bedrooms, 1.5 bathrooms and a fully wines by the glass, although several David has said he planned MONA as equipped gourmet kitchen along with flat- specials are available each night, along“a subversive adult Disneyland” and it screen TV, Bose entertainment system and with a long and interesting list of wines,is Australia’s largest private museum DVD library and free wi-fi. including a range of good locals andcomplex. It is part of a complex that also imports. It offers exotic dishes such ashouses the ultra high-tech Moorilla Estate Other members of the collection are stinging nettle soup or fried pig’s ear withwinery and cellar door, upmarket The the Admiral’s Suite, a two-bedroom, two- chorizo salt, or more mainstream offeringsSource restaurant, the Moo Brew micro- bathroom waterfront apartment on Hunter in charred octopus with paprika, lemonbrewery, a wine bar and eight extravagant St with similar luxury appointments, the and parsley, or braised ox tongue withpavilions that overlook the Derwent River Admiral’s Penthouse 1, a three-bedroom, horseradish. See www.ethoseatdrink.com.and provide some of Hobart’s most two-bathroom, top-floor apartment withexclusive accommodation. superb views across the harbour and Other impressive recent newcomers in Salamanca Place, plus its own wrap- the capital include the superb Garagistes The Source, where French chef Philippe around balcony, and the four-bedroom, (www.garagistes.com.au), where formerLeban is behind the stoves, is open daily for three-bathroom Admiral’s Penthouse 2, Sydney chef Luke Burgess is creating alunch and for dinner on Friday and Saturday which is promoted as “the ultimate in luxury menu that changes daily and offers a longnights. Wine tastings are available at the penthouse accommodation”. list of “natural” wines. The menu featurescellar door in the Ether Building daily from dishes including marinated mussels10-5pm, while beer tours are held on Friday All four are managed by Sullivans Cove with caramelised onion and croutons, orevenings from 4-5pm (bookings preferred). Apartments. Phone 1800 030 160 or see marinated kingfish with cucumber, miso and www.sullivanscoveapartments.com.au. Japanese turnip. Also try the new Sandy Bay MONA’s eight accommodation pavilionsall feature eclectic artworks and are namedafter prominent 20th century architects andpainters. They contain video art from theowner’s private collection and commissionedworks from several leading Australian artists,along with “electronic toys” - wireless touchpanels that control everything from roomtemperature to audio-visual systems. MONA is at 655 Main Rd, Berriedale. Itis open from 11am-7pm daily and can bereached by a fast catamaran service fromBrooke Street Terminal in Hobart. Phone(03) 6277 9900 or see www.mona.net.au.148 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

travelbriefsbranch of long-time Launceston gourmet CHROMY’S NEW VENTURE possible - think dishes such as Cape Grimburger favourite Burger Got Soul, and the rib fillet, wilted Swiss chard, spinach andcity’s first “serious” Vietnamese, Sapa Rose. BUSINESSMAN Josef Chromy is something hand-cut chips. Phone (03) 6337 4100; of a legend in Tasmania; a penniless www.hotelcharles.com.au.SAFFIRE SPARKLES Czech migrant who made millions through smallgoods and started several of the state’s SPECK-TACULAR SPOTSAFFIRE has been an instant sensation since leading wineries, including the one that bearsopening just over a year ago as Tasmania’s his name, which boasts a spectacular cellar BOTHWELL, just under an hour north offirst “luxury lodge”. Situated at Coles Bay on door facility and on-site restaurant at Relbia, Hobart, is off the beaten track and a merethe Freycinet Peninsula, the $32 million resort just down the road from Launceston Airport. speck on the map, but is a magnet forhas just 20 suites with water views, high-tech hunters and fishermen - and more. Visitorsbathrooms and private decks - and is on His latest venture, opened last year, is the are also drawn to the Nant whisky distillery,the doorstep of wineries such as Freycinet Hotel Charles at 287 Charles St, Launceston, while golfers come to play historic Ratho,Estate and Spring Vale. Several of the suites on the fringe of the CBD and with many of its the oldest course in the country.boast their own plunge pools. The Palaterestaurant showcases Tasmania’s fresh rooms offering views of the Tamar River. Part of Bothwell is also home to The Priory Lodge,produce with Hugh Whitehouse, formerly of a new complex, the building has an Art Deco one of the state’s premier boutique bed andthe two-hat Darley’s at Lilianfels in the NSW exterior with modern, well-equipped rooms and breakfast establishments. Built in 1848 andBlue Mountains, in charge of the kitchen. The apartments at sensible prices. On-site facilities beautifully refurbished, the restful lodgewine list highlights the state’s best drops. include a restaurant, guest lounge, function/ offers four bedrooms with en suite marbleSeveral activities, meals and drinks are built conference room for up to 100 delegates, bathrooms, a formal lounge, drawing room,into the all-inclusive tariffs. Phone 1800 723 private dining room and boardroom. Restaurant library, hunt room, sitting room and a fabulous347 or see www.saffire-freycinet.com.au. Esca specialises in using local produce when country kitchen to enjoy produce from the local area. Host Greg Peacock is a terrificFROM CABLES TO CUISINE cook and country breakfasts and dinner are included in tariffs. There are two pavilionsTHE HISTORIC Old Cable Station outside behind the main home with more modernStanley, in Tasmania’s far north-west, was and luxurious accommodation; one has itsonce used to send telegraph messages to the own sauna. The Priory is the perfect spot tomainland. Today, it is a country guesthouse break any trip between the south of the islandwith views of Bass Strait, comfortable modern and Launceston or the Tamar Valley. It is at 2rooms and a much-loved restaurant. Old Wentworth St, Bothwell; phone (03) 6259 4012,Cable Station specialises in local dishes www.thepriorycountrylodge.com.au.such as char-grilled octopus, local scallops,oysters, abalone and Cape Grim beef and Above: The Priory Lodge boutique b&b.has become well-known locally for its quarterly Centre & below: Saffire luxury lodge and lounge.seasonal producers’ lunches, which are a Opposite page. Left: Ethos Eat Drink interior.draw for foodies from throughout Tasmania. Right: Admiral’s Collection penthouse interior. Talented cook Charlotte Brown and herteam match each course with wines froma local producer, whose winemaker ison hand to answer questions. These aretraditional long, lazy lunches that start earlyand finish late - with the unique sellingpoint that guests get a chance to chat withfarmers and fishermen while enjoying theirproduce, making it an authentic foodieexperience. The next seasonal producers’lunch is scheduled for July 10. Phone (03)6458 1312, www.oldcablestation.com.au. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 149

124 TASTED71 AWARDEDTA SM AN I AIn a unique tasting of cool-climate wines, Tasmania Jansz Premium Iron Pot Bay Tamar Valleyoffers a different experience from many mainland wines Tasmania Cuvee NV HHH Tasmania Sauvignon- which is how it should be. Not surprisingly, the best Attractive lighter, non-vintage Blanc Semillon 2009 HHHperformers came from the pinot noirs and sparkling style. Bright and well Pungent bouquet and nicelywines, with honourable mentions for the sweet whites balanced, with fresh youthful textured, tight and refreshingand, somewhat surprisingly, the pinot gris/grigio bracket. characters. $24.95 palate with crisp acidity. $22SPARKLING Josef Chromy Tasmania Tamar Ridge Heemskerk Wines Methode Traditionnelle Tasmania Pinot Noir Abel’s Tempest17 TASTED NV HHHH1/2 Chardonnay 2006 HHH Tasmania Sauvignon10 AWARDED Pale straw colour with an Nose has considerable Blanc 2010 HHH attractive nutty/toasty nose and honeyed aged characters. Attractive, almost peppermint-likeExcellent line-up of some of a good persistent bead. Lean, Some sweetness on the palate, perfume and bright, juicy cordialAustralia’s leading sparkling dry, citrusy palate exhibits a with balancing acidity. $39 characters in the mouth $25wines. Wines with higher good acid level and has lovelyscores showed greater flavour intensity and length. $27 Jansz Tasmania Vintage Riversdale Estate Coal Rivercomplexity. Most wines here Jansz Premium Rosé 2007 HHH Valley Tasmania Sauvignonwere well balanced, with just Rosé NV HHHH Lifted strawberry and cream- Blanc 2010 HHHthe right amount of dosage Subtle strawberry and citrus like aromas and a broad palate Lifted aromas of kiwi fruit and(sugar addition) and some bouquet, a very fresh red berry with well-balanced berry hay, and a rich, well-textureddelicate mousse. fruit palate and nice crisp, citrusy flavours. $39.95 palate with savoury flavours. $24 acid backbone to balance. $24.95House of Arras Grand Riversdale Estate Crux SAUVIGNON PINOT GRIS/GRIGIOVintage Tasmania Coal River Valley Tasmania BLANC & BLENDSMethode Traditionnelle Sparkling 2005 HHHH 11 TASTED2003 HHHHH Smells of sweet pear drops 10 TASTED 5 AWARDEDLight golden wine with a and shows great length and 5 AWARDEDtoasty/creamy yeast nose and persistence of flavour on an The judges were pleasantlylovely lingering complexity of elegant palate edged with Mixed group. These wines tend surprised with this group andflavours with attractive aged bright, yeasty notes. $30 towards a restrained fruit style noted a good distinction betweencharacters and plenty of crisp, Pirie Tasmania rather than the big, overt, tropical the gris - fuller, riper styles - andcitrusy acidity to balance. $70 Sparkling NV HHHH styles. On a pleasing note, few the crisper, racier grigios. Fresh aromas of citrus and were overly herbaceous, as in green apples. Refreshingly crisp the past, but offered lighter, Tamar Ridge Devils palate with nice combination of consumer-friendly flavours. Corner Tasmania Pinot youthfulness, complexity and Grigio 2010 HHHH aged characters. $33 Bream Creek Very pale, with some delicate Tasmania Sauvignon floral fragrances that lead toClover Hill Cuvee Clover Hill Cuvee Blanc 2010 HHHH a tight, crisp palate with fineExceptionnelle Pipers Exceptionnelle Pipers River Ripe and complex tropical nose flavours of lemons and pearRiver Blanc de Blancs Methode Traditionnelle with a well-rounded, slightly drops. $212006 HHHH1/2 2006 HHH1/2 sweet, ripe fruit palate showingBright and toasty nose with Light, mushroomy complexity grassy green fruit flavours that Spring Vale East Tasmaniavery attractive yeast autolysis to a nose with hints of iodine, linger on. $25 Pinot Gris 2010 HHH1/2characters.Tight and toasty in the and a full, rich palate with great Attractive green apple nosemouth, with great length of flinty, flavor complexity. $45 Josef Chromy with a lovely fruity lift. Quitegreen apple-like flavours. $55 Tasmania Sauvignon aromatic palate, sweet and well Blanc 2010 HHHH balanced. $28 Pungent passionfruit of a nose and a simple, lightweight palate Josef Chromy Tasmania that’s fresh and tasty with Pinot Gris 2010 HHH1/2 moderate acidity. Give it more Nice nose - smells of Turkish time to settle. $25 delight and apricots. Oily palate, in the gris style, with high alcohol and ripe fruit flavours. $25150 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011