Winestate Magazine July August 2011

The Wine Society Tasmania Holm Oak Vineyards TGR regional tastingPinot Gris 2010 HHH Wild Fermented TasmaniaSubtle peach/pear aromas Riesling 2010 HHH1/2 Thinking ofand some nice sweet berry Subtle, spicy nose and juicyfruit flavours with an oily flavours. Residual sugar obvious China?mouthfeel. $19.99 but it is well matched with a good level of crisp acidity. $22 You should be.Pirie South Tasmania Riversdale Estate CoalPinot Gris 2010 HHH River Valley Tasmania China has a taste for Australian wine.Smells of ripe pears with a Riesling 2010 HHH1/2 Last year it imported $170m worth.dash of talcum powder! Has a Very interesting, tightly structured That’s almost a fifth of its total wineflavoursome, fruity palate. $23 wine that’s dry and austere with imports, which were up 400% from a perfumed nose and clean, lean, 2004 to $1b, making it the fourthRIESLING lemon palate. $23 largest market in the world. Pooley Margaret Pooley But the Chinese legal landscape21 TASTED Tribute Coal River Valley is challenging terrain, requiring an14 AWARDED Riesling 2010 HHH experienced, expert eye. Freshly cut limes on the nose So that’s just what the DW WineStrong class of cool-climate, which follows through onto the team provides.natural-acid, well-balanced wines. palate with a crisp finish. $35 We can help smooth your entry intoThese tend to be the more limey, The Wine Society Premium the Orient by assisting with:mineral-style rieslings. Selection Tasmania • Export & distribution agreements Riesling 2010 HHH • Brand protection & labellingPressing Matters Coal Dry, flinty style with tight, • Key relationships & contactsRiver Valley Tasmania elegant, citrus blossom-like • Managing tax & currency issuesRiesling 2006 HHHHH fruit. $16.99 • Much more.Very attractive example of Freycinet Vineyard Want China’s growth to fuel yours?this varietal, showing lovely Tasmania Riesling Call the DW Wine team for ahoneyed aged characters 2010 HHH confidential chat on 08 8410 2555developing nicely. Palate still Subdued, limey nose but afresh and bright, with seamless generous, juicy palate. Some l to r: Tim Duval, Madeleine Crawford, Richard Phillips,balance of fruit, acidity and residual sugar well matched by Lisa Dowdy, Alan Branch and Sandy Donaldsonaged characters. $29 the acid. $24 Bass Fine WinesPressing Matters RO Coal Strait Tasmania RieslingRiver Valley Tasmania 2007 HHHRiesling 2009 HHHHH Pleasant green apple andSubtle floral bouquet with lemon characters with nicea flinty edge. Very lemony/ toastiness developing. $N/Aminerally defined palate Riversdale Estate Cygnusshowing great intensity Coal River Valley Tasmaniaand length of flavour. Nicely Riesling 2008 HHHstructured and with an Slightly toasty aged charactersexcellent spine of acidity. $29 on the nose, with intense, developed flavours on a firmPressing Matters R9 Coal palate. $26River Valley Tasmania Pressing Matters R9 CoalRiesling 2009 HHHH1/2 River Valley TasmaniaAttractive aromas of citrus, Riesling 2008 HHHwith a sprinkling of baby Tight, nicely textured wine withpowder-like characters. Very tart, crisp fruit and balancingpretty fruit palate with some residual sweetness. $29residual sugar all seamlessly Pressing Matters Coalbalanced by lovely acidity. $29 River Valley Tasmania Riesling 2007 HHHPooley Coal River Valley Fine citrus fruit, with attractiveRiesling 2009 HHHH aromatics and some residualAn austere flinty minerally sugar. $29style with excellent length,persistence and intensity of Kings Chambersfresh citrus fruit and lemon 320 King William Streetpeel characters. $26 Adelaide SA 5000Bream Creek Tasmania [email protected] 2008 HHHHLimes lift off the nose and www.donaldsonwalsh.com.aufill the mouth, merging withapple juice-like characters tocreate a lovely juicy mouthfulof varietal flavour. $23 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 151

TA S M A N I AGEWURZTRAMINER Bream Creek Reserve ROSÉ Riversdale Estate Coal Tasmania Chardonnay River Valley Tasmania3 TASTED 2005 HHHH 2 TASTED Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH1/22 AWARDED Complex, aged oak/fruit 1 AWARDED Ripe cherry fruit bouquet with characters to the nose. Plump subtle oak, hints of spice andA couple of interesting and in the mouth, with lovely Iron Pot Bay developed, savoury notes. Well-different traminers. One is a fruit/oak flavour complexity Tamar Valley Pinot structured, meaty palate withtraditional floral/spicy wine and and pleasant, slightly oily, Meunier Rosé 2010 HHH slight syrupy-like characters andthe other a racy, acid-based mouthfeel. $34 Bright, well-balanced wine with supple tannins. $24.99New World style. Holm Oak Vineyards candy-sweet nose and long, Freycinet Vineyard Tasmania Chardonnay crisp, savoury palate. $22 Tasmania Pinot NoirMoorilla Muse 2010 HHH1/2 2008 HHHHTasmania Gewurztraminer Bright citrus and toast-like aromas PINOT NOIR Dense pungent/spicy aromas2010 HHHH with attractive lemony flavours and dark, brooding and slightlyDelightfully intense floral/ showing some sweetness, but 29 TASTED aggressive palate that’s bigTurkish delight bouquet. Soft in it’s in balance. $30 18 AWARDED and complex and has a lovelythe mouth, with good structure Riversdale Estate savouriness. $55and nice varietal fruit depth and Crater Coal River Valley Strong class. The older wines Moorilla Museweight. $35 Tasmania Chardonnay generally performed better Series Tasmania Pinot 2008 HHH1/2 than the younger ones. “We Noir 2009 HHHHBass Fine Wine Strait North Hints of melons and vanilla are moving away from the fruit- Complex, minty/chocolateTasmania Gewurztraminer on the nose, and pleasant driven styles to more complex bouquet and lovely silky-2009 HHH1/2 freshness of varietal flavours on hand-crafted wines which cause textured palate with excellentDelicate notes of rose petals the well-structured palate. $ discussion and a divergence of concentration of sweet varietalwaft off the nose and are Heemskerk Wines Abel’s opinions”, said one judge. fruit and good acidity. $49followed by a fine, elegant and Tempest Tasmania Bay of Fires Tasmaniacitrusy palate. $N/A Chardonnay 2010 HHH Spring Vale Freycinet Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH Smells of green melons, tastes Coast Tasmania Pinot Nice spicy character to theCHARDONNAY lemony and has a nice spritzig Noir 2009 HHHHH nose, with secondary characters character. $25 Mix of sweet raspberry and starting to develop. Dense,17 TASTED Bay of Fires Tasmania tangy cranberry aromas with tannic palate, soft in the mouth,8 AWARDED Chardonnay 2008 HHH subtle spicy/medicinal notes. The with lovely spiciness. $32 Rich and complex bouquet - very lovely long palate has attractive Tamar Ridge KayenaThe judges differed in their intense - and attractive toasty, flavours reminiscent of liqueur Reserve Tasmania Pinotpreferences here, with the oatmeal-like flavours. $32 cherry confectionery. $40 Noir 2007 HHH1/2explanation being, “Cool-climate Bellwether Tamar Valley Dense oaky/mint nose showingfruit results in a much more Tasmania Chardonnay Freycinet Vineyard some development. Sweetdiverse range of styles than you 2009 HHH Louis Tasmania Pinot Noir fruit palate with some savourywill find in warmer regions.” The Complex meaty/toasty nose, 2009 HHHHH notes and fine tannins. $55wines ranged from the clean and with more complexity on the Lovely complex wine with a Iron Pot Bay River Blockclinical to the feral and funky. long, pungent palate. $50 dense concentration of dark Tamar Valley Tasmania Nocton Park Coal chocolaty aromas matched Pinot Noir 2009 HHH1/2Riversdale Estate River Valley Tasmania with elegant varietal fruit. Sour cherry aromas with aCrater Coal River Valley Chardonnay 2007 HHH Well-structured palate has herbal edge and more of theTasmania Chardonnay Greenness on both nose and attractive red fruit flavours and sour cherry characters on2009 HHHHH palate, with some softness in chewy oak. $28 a palate with slightly greenLovely toasty aromas with the mouth. $25 tannins. $27a bright, lemon-like edge.Refined, elegant and crisppalate with great texture,plenty of varietal flavour lengthand phenolic fullness. Verygood wine. $34.99JUDGES Gerald Ellis Jeremy Dineen The original owner of Chief winemaker for Josef Tom Ravech Meadowbank Estate Chromy Wines. Formerly Senior winemaker Winery, but now made wines with Hood with Tamar Ridge proprietor of Meadowbank Wines, Frogmore Creek, Wines. Has previously Vineyard in the Derwent Mitchelton, in Victoria and worked as Operations Valley. Gerald has had Capel Vale in WA. Judge Manager at the Villa an extensive career in at Perth, Hobart and Maria Winery (NZ) Tasmanian winemaking, Rutherglen wine shows. and Tucks Ridge in marketing and finance. Mornington Peninsula.152 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

regional tastingBass Fine Wine Tamar Ridge Estate Moorilla Muse St Matthias Josef Chromy TasmaniaStrait Tasmania Pinot Devil’s Corner Tasmania Vineyard Tasmania Botrytis Riesling 2009Noir 2009 HHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Syrah 2009 HHH1/2 (375ml) HHHHComplex wine with good Astringent green notes to the Quite a spicy and peppery nose Clean, fresh, spritzig lime‘chunkiness’. Smells and tastes nose. Good concentration of and a very grippy palate that’s aromas with touches of apricotof red cherries, with toasty fruit flavours, high acid and dense with flavour and high in botrytis characters. The palatenotes and acid freshness. $N/A supple tannins. $21 acid and oak. $60 has weight, texture and plentyTamar Ridge Kayena of flavour. “Ice wine-like,” saidVineyard Tasmania Pinot Pirie South Tasmania Moorilla Muse one judge. $25Noir 2009 HHH Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Series Merlot Cabernet Pressing Matters R69 CoalDense savoury/smoky nose Vanilla-like characters to the 2009 HHH1/2 River Valley Tasmaniaand a very long, very complex, nose, and a very pretty varietal Minty/herbal characters lift off Riesling 2009 HHHHsavoury palate with firm palate with a grippy tannic the nose and attractive flavours Lively and extremely prettytannins. $32.70 finish. $24 of oak and ripe red fruits fill the wine showing excellentPooley Coal River Valley mouth. $35 balance between varietalPinot Noir 2009 HHH Pressing Matters Coal fruit, crisp acidity and residualGood balance between River Valley Tasmania SWEET WHITES sweetness. $29cherry/raspberry varietal fruit Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Pressing Matters R139characters and the acidity and Mocha-like aromas with toasty 8 TASTED Coal River Valleytannins. $35 notes. Dark, sweet, cherry 6 AWARDED Tasmania Riesling 2008Josef Chromy fruit palate and very smart use (375ml) HHH1/2Pepik Tasmania of oak. $49 Some very nice examples Powerful varietal aromatics andPinot Noir 2010 HHH of sweet riesling varietal bright, confectionery-sweetSmoky, dark berry/violet Ghost Rock Vineyard wines here, offering great palate with a tight structure andbouquet and a fleshy fruit Casper’s Block Tasmania cellaring potential due to their seamless balance. $26palate - quite hot - with nice Pinot Noir 2009 HHH natural acidity. Iron Pot Bay Tamar Valleylength. $20 Simple lolly aromas and a Dessert Riesling 2008Humbug Reach Tamar lightweight, spicy, fresh cherry Tamar Ridge Kayena (375ml) HHHValley Tasmania Pinot palate; pretty and elegant. $28 Vineyard Tasmania Attractive developed charactersNoir 2009 HHH Botrytis Riesling 2009 on the nose, and a simple, well-The nose is a complexity of oak OTHER RED (375ml) HHHHH aged, flavoursome palate. $16and fruit, and oak dominates VARIETALS Intense floral bouquet with Pressing Matters R139the tight cherry palate. $45 & BLENDS gorgeous apricot-like botrytis Coal River Valley RieslingHolm Oak characters. Very rich, luscious 2006 (375ml) HHHVineyards Tasmania 6 TASTED varietal palate with excellent Dense, toasty nose andPinot Noir 2009 HHH 2 AWARDED flavour richness, depth and tight and bright, high-acid,Light cherry bouquet and a very length held together by flavoursome palate. $26bright, supple, sweet red fruit A difficult task to get some red vibrantly crisp acidity. $26palate. $32 varietals across the line here, where pinot dominates the region. There is potential but more work needs to be done. WINESTATE WINE OF THE YEAR Exclusive Subscriber Tasting of the 60 best wines of Australia and NZ of 2011 National Wine Centre, Adelaide Friday 7 October 6pm - 8.30pm Subscribers and Sponsors entry is free Guests $75.00 Limited to 250 tickets only! Ticket bookings 08 8357 9277 or [email protected] July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 153

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINUPPER NORTH ISLANDPULLMAN’S NZ DEBUT DINE WITH STEIN the new Kidnapper Cliffs label with Rick’s dishes. The cost of each event is $800THERE has been a changing of the guard KAURI Cliffs in Northland was the first of the per person plus GST, including double/in Auckland’s top-tier hotel hierarchy, with Robertson family’s three superb luxury lodges, twin accommodation, degustation dinnerthe five-star Hyatt Regency checking out having been joined by The Lodge at Cape with wines, full breakfast and choice of aof the city and the Pullman Auckland Hotel Kidnappers in Hawke’s Bay and Matakauri round of golf on the world-class Kauri Cliffs& Residences checking in. The Hyatt was Lodge outside Queenstown. There would be course or a 50-minute massage per person.New Zealand’s first five-star hotel and no better time to visit Kauri Cliffs than August Meanwhile, special winter rates are availableoccupied a central position in the heart of 27, when leading British seafood chef Rick until August 31 at all three resorts. For detailsAuckland’s commercial and retail district Stein, from Padstow in Cornwall, will be guest of the Kauri Cliffs offer phone +64 9 407that has now been taken over by Pullman, chef for a dinner paired with Te Awa wines - a 0100 or visit www.kauricliffs.com.part of the multinational Accor group. brand also owned by the Robertson family. ISLAND EXPLORATIONS Accor took over following the sale of The dinner is part of the 2011 Winterthe hotel to new owners and is now New Food and Wine Series hosted by the three WAIHEKE Island is just a short ferry rideZealand’s largest hotel group, with a total lodges, which features chefs of the calibre from downtown Auckland and is home toof 29 hotels and 4017 rooms across the of Mark Best and Shannon Bennett. Rick some of New Zealand’s most spectacularcountry - 500 rooms more than its nearest Stein is planning a menu with a Spanish vineyards and winery restaurants. Waynecompetitor. That number will further accent for his Kauri Cliffs dinner - his latest Eagleton and Jean Goodbrand have justincrease with the opening of Novotel and book and TV series are focused on Spain. launched Waiheke Island Wine Tours,Formule 1 hotels at Auckland Airport. which offers visitors the opportunity to Winemaker Ant McKenzie will also be on sample fine Waiheke wines and enjoy Accor vice-president New Zealand Paul hand to match wines from both Te Awa and lunch at a vineyard or restaurant of theirRichardson signalled minor upgrades at choice. Tours include full commentarythe Pullman Auckland but noted the rooms on the island’s Maori and Europeanhad undergone a $7 million refurbishment history and at least three tastings at threejust two years ago. “Over the coming different vineyards.months, we will be enhancing the hotel tobring the property up to Pullman standard, Waiheke Island now has close to 30providing a complete array of personalised vineyards and 18 cellar doors, makingservices and innovative technologies it an attractive day trip option for bothincluding a Connectivity Lounge and the domestic and international visitors.groundbreaking ‘Co-Meeting’ concept The company runs private and smallwhich ensures success for meetings and intimate group tours. Vineyards on theevents,” he said. itineraries include Obsidian, Jurassic Ridge, Kennedy Point, Mudbrick, Cable The Pullman hotel has 267 rooms, suites Bay, Goldies and Peacock Sky.and apartments, with three Pullman executivelevels. A feature of the facilities is the Spaand Health Club, one of the largest of its kindin New Zealand. Available to hotel guestsand external clients, the spa includes sixtreatment rooms, gymnasium, a 25m heatedlap pool with a retractable roof, steam room,jacuzzi, juice bar and spa boutique. While making its debut in New Zealand,Pullman is the fastest-growing luxury hotelbrand in the Asia-Pacific region, with majoradditions in countries such as Vietnam,China, India, and Malaysia. The Aucklandhotel is at the corner of Princes St andWaterloo Quadrant. Phone +64 9 353 1000;www.pullmanhotels.com/Auckland.154 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

travelbriefs Other vineyard visits can be requested also reflect the type of cuisine available of Hvar, planted the first Soljan vineyard inand tailor-made itineraries can be designed at each. They include the Silk Road (wok New Zealand in 1932, starting a businessto include olive groves, artists’ studios and dim sum), Spice Route (tandoori and that has been carried on by his son Frankgardens or galleries. “We will happily fit curries), Tokaido (sushi and sashimi), and then grandson and current owner Tonyin with our clients’ personal interests or Route 66 (New York-style grill), Great Soljan. In 2002 Tony put his own stamp ontastes,” says Wayne Eagleton. See www. Ocean Road (seafood and oysters), the family winemaking heritage by realisingwaihekeislandwinetours.co.nz. Garden Route (salads) and Champs- a lifelong dream to build his own winery at Elysees (pastries, crepes and cheese). Kumeu in West Auckland.DINERS’ EIGHT CHOICES The restaurant celebrates high quality, The vineyard surrounding the winery isLAST year it was Barolo, the Langham Hotel’s seasonal food which changes daily. Eight planted with pinotage, merlot and pinot grisItalian restaurant, which was grabbing the has a marketplace feel to it, with the finest but, as with most Auckland wineries, Soljansheadlines. Now the Auckland luxury hotel cuts of meat and fresh fish and seafood on draws the majority of its grapes from Newhas launched Eight, its newest restaurant, display and available for diners to select Zealand’s major wine growing regions.named after the restaurant’s eight kitchens.Diners enjoy not only a meal but a culinaryjourney where they can choose exquisitelyprepared world cuisine, while interactingwith the chefs in the open kitchens. Jeffrey van Vorsselen, managing directorof The Langham, says the culinary journeyconcept also enables diners to create theirown personal degustation, allowing themto fully appreciate the cuisine from eachkitchen at their own pace, with as manydishes and intervals as desired. \"Eight is extremely exciting and will and then have cooked to their liking before The cellar door is open for tastings 9am-redefine expectations of hotel dining in them. Similarly, designer sushi and sashimi 5pm daily and also sells gourmet foodNew Zealand,” he says. “It is a fun, yet can be prepared on demand, delectable products, while Soljans Cafe is ideal for asophisticated place to eat, where dining is garden salads created, dim sum selected relaxed lunch, serving Mediterranean-styleno longer passive, where diners have the or freshly baked naan bread pulled food with a New Zealand twist. The menuluxury of choice and where the theatre of steaming from the tandoor. Dishes can changes seasonally but always features acooking forms part of the total experience.” also be matched with wine choices from set lunch menu for $27.50. Eight’s dedicated and extensive wine bar The eight kitchens are named after which serves over 40 wines by the glass. Al a carte choices include the likesiconic journeys and destinations which Lunches are priced from $37 per person of slow-roasted pork belly with potato and dinner from $67 per person. Phone fondant, bok choy, red wine jus and apple +64 9 300 2852 or visit www.auckland. mustard foam, served with Soljans Barrique langhamhotels.co.nz. Reserve Chardonnay, or seared scallops wrapped with pancetta, black pudding, SOLJANS’ RICH HERITAGE creamed butternut puree, shrimp butter and balsamic reduction, with Soljans YOU may be only 25 minutes from Gisborne Barrique Reserve Pinot Noir. downtown Auckland, but life moves at a For bookings phone +64 9 412 2680 or very different pace at the Soljans winery visit www.soljans.co.nz. at the gateway to Kumeu Wine Country - Auckland’s Heritage Wine Region. Bartul Left: A selection of dishes from Eight. Soljan, a migrant from the Croatian island Right: Langham’s Eight restaurant. Opposite page. Above: Kauri Cliffs cottage bedroom. Below: Kauri Cliffs lodge pool & grounds. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 155

71 TASTED43 RECOMMENDEDUPPER NORTH ISLANDChardonnay, viognier and syrah were the stars in Stonebridge Gisborne Odyssey Reserve IliadWinestate’s latest tasting of wines from the Gisborne, Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHAuckland and Northland regions. The panel also found Youthful, poised wine, peachy Gisborne wine, fresh and finelyexcellent examples of pinot gris, gewurztraminer and and creamy. French and balanced, with leesy notesverdelho - a promising new arrival in Gisborne - but American oak-aged, with adding a touch of complexity.too many of the Bordeaux-style reds were green- citrusy, nutty flavours, showing Peachy, spicy and creamy, withedged, lacking real ripeness, richness and stuffing. very good depth and harmony. some ageing potential. $35 Well worth cellaring. $25Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Ascension The Ascent TW Growers SelectionWines available in export markets are shown as Reserve Matakana Gisborne Chardonnay(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 2009 HHH Youthful, tightly structured Weighty and rounded, withSPARKLING Huntaway Reserve wine, French oak-fermented. citrusy, nutty flavours showing Chardonnay 2009 HHHHH Mouthfilling, with grapefruit and barrel-ferment complexity.2 TASTED Full-bodied Gisborne wine with peach flavours, slightly leesy However, one judge described1 AWARDED strong, peachy, nutty, slightly and biscuity, and a rounded the wine as “oak-reliant” and buttery flavours and a dry, finish. Potential here. $39 another as “slightly hard”. $28Soljans Fusion Sparkling finely balanced finish. Shows Passage RockMuscat NV HHH1/2 excellent ripeness, richness Waiheke Island PINOT GRISCrisp, lively Gisborne wine, and complexity. Delicious from Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2made from muscat grapes in the start. $22 Nutty, slightly creamy bouquet. 8 TASTEDa style highly reminiscent of Marsden Bay of Islands Finely textured, sweet-fruited 4 AWARDEDAsti Spumante. Fresh, sweet Black Rocks Chardonnay wine with peachy, appleyand vibrantly fruity, with instant 2009 HHHHH flavours, showing very good Solid class, but several winesappeal. $16 Complex, nutty Northland wine, depth and complexity. $40 were marked down for lacking fragrant, big, rich and creamy. Ascension The Druid richness or showing a heavy-CHARDONNAY Peachy, spicy and toasty, with Matakana Chardonnay handed use of oak. excellent depth, complexity 2010 HHH20 TASTED and drinkability. $35 Fruit-driven style, fermented West Brook Waimauku13 AWARDED Michael Ramon Matakana in a 50/50 split of tanks and Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH Chardonnay 2010 HHHHH American oak barriques. Crisp This stylish West Auckland wineChardonnay is by far the most Very elegant, barrel-fermented and lemony, fresh and lively, was hand-picked and fermentedextensively planted white wine with a lovely, mealy, nutty with some immediacy. $29 in tanks and seasoned barrels.wine variety in the Upper complexity. Shows a strong Growers Mark Gisborne Attractively scented, it’s full-North Island. The panel found French oak influence, but also Chardonnay 2010 HHH bodied, finely textured andexcellent examples from rich underlying fruit. Full- Full-bodied, with pleasing depth slightly sweet, with balancedGisborne, Waiheke Island, bodied, peachy and toasty. $45 of citrusy, appley, slightly leesy acidity and rich stone-fruitMatakana and Northland, but - Obsidian Waiheke Island flavours. Enjoyable young. $25 flavours that linger well. $26with the notable exception of Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Matakana Estatethe Huntaway Reserve - the Stylish, barrel-fermented wine Matakana Chardonnay Brunton Roadclass offered few bargains. with strong, ripe, citrusy, 2009 HHH Pinot Gris 2010 HHH peachy, slightly nutty flavours, Praised by one judge as Fresh, lively Gisborne wine with showing good complexity. “fleshy, rich and rounded”, but a sliver of sweetness amid its Rich, subtle and well worth the others thought the wine peach, pear and lychee flavours, cellaring. $35 lacked real complexity. $29 which show good depth. $22 Matawhero Gisborne Chardonnay 2010 HHH Marsden Estate Unoaked style, mouthfilling Pinot Gris 2010 HHH and rounded, with plenty of Grown at Kerikeri, in Northland, ripe, citrusy, peachy flavour, this floral, dryish wine has but described as “simple” or attractive lychee and pear “simplish” by two judges. $25. flavours. Fresh and crisp, with good depth, it was described by one judge as a “semi-grigio style”. $27156 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

regional tastingSoljans Kumeu TW GisbornePinot Gris 2010 HHH Viognier 2009 HHHFresh, finely balanced, Fleshy, partly barrel-easy-drinking West Auckland fermented style with ripewine with satisfying depth of stone-fruit flavours, a touchgently sweet pear and lychee of complexity and a fully dryflavours. $20 finish. Enjoyable now. $22VIOGNIER GEWURZTRAMINER5 TASTED 4 TASTED5 AWARDED 3 AWARDEDViognier flourishes in most Small but solid class, showingNorth Island regions, where it that Gisborne’s long-termresponds well to the relatively reputation for gewurztraminerwarm climate. Both in Auckland is well deserved.and Gisborne, viognier isyielding weighty, rich, dry Coopers Creekwhites that offer an excellent Gisborne Gewurztramineralternative to chardonnay. 2010 HHHH1/2 Great buy. Richly perfumed, slightly gingery on the nose, with a fleshy, concentrated palate. Ripe and rounded, with a slightly oily texture and lovely poise, delicacy and harmony. $18Passage Rock Lake RoadWaiheke Island Viognier Gisborne Gewurztraminer2010 HHHHH 2010 HHH1/2Complex style, fleshy and Fresh, citrusy and spicy, in alayered, with concentrated, medium to full-bodied stylewell-ripened stone-fruit and with plenty of slightly sweet,oak flavours, slightly creamy gingery and spicy flavour. Floraland nutty. Rich and tightly and lingering. $19structured, with hints of Matawhero Gisborneapricots and spices, it should Gewurztraminer 2009 HHHunfold well. $35 Dry and moderately aromatic, with good weight on the palate, satisfying depth of citrusy, spicy flavour, and some bottle- aged complexity. Ready. $25Coopers Creek Gisborne OTHER WHITESViognier 2009 HHH1/2Fragrant, fleshy, ripely flavoured 5 TASTEDwine with citrus and peach 1 AWARDEDcharacters and a dryish, sustainedfinish. Fine value at $18. TW PT’s VerdelhoAscension The Vestal 2010 HHHH1/2Virgin Matakana The third verdelho to beViognier 2010 HHH produced in New Zealand wasAromatic and vibrantly fruity, grown in Gisborne and madewith citrusy, appley, slightly spicy in a dry, barrel-fermented style.flavours, fresh and lively. $29 Scented and weighty (14.5%Brunton Road Gisborne alc), creamy-textured, with rich,Viognier 2009 HHH ripe, tropical fruit flavours andFull-bodied, dry style, nutty a musky perfume. Excellentand rounded. A strong, creamy debut, already delicious. $25MLF influence was noted bytwo judges. $22 July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 157

UPPER NORTH ISLANDROSÉ CABERNET Passage Rock Reserve OTHER REDS SAUVIGNON Waiheke Island Syrah1 TASTED & BLENDS 2010 HHHHH 9 TASTED0 AWARDED Densely coloured, with 6 AWARDED 3 TASTED beautifully rich cassis, blackMERLOT & BLENDS 3 AWARDED pepper and nut flavours, and Karikari Estate gentle tannins giving instant Toa 2007 HHH1/27 TASTED Peacock Sky Waiheke appeal. Finely textured and Far North red, blended from3 AWARDED Island Cabernet supple, with lovely depth and a cabernet franc and merlot. Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 powerful presence. $55 Brambly and nutty, withOverall, a disappointing Brambly, spicy Waiheke red with slightly earthy, herbal, leatheryclass, in which several wines rich colour, hints of herbs and Passage Rock Waiheke notes adding complexity,- from Gisborne, Waiheke olives, well-integrated French Island Syrah 2010 HHHHH good concentration andand Matakana - lacked real and American oak, and very Dense, youthful colour. Star wine, a firm finish. $39ripeness and richness. satisfying flavour depth. $35 with substantial body and lovely, Ascension The Bell dense flavours of blackcurrant, Ringer MatakanaBrunton Road Gisborne Karikari Estate plums, chocolate and spices, ripe Pinotage 2010 HHHMerlot 2009 HHH1/2 Toa Iti 2006 HHH and rich. “Compelling,” enthused Deeply coloured red withMouthfilling, full-coloured red, Dark, Far North blend of one judge. $35 plum and spice flavours and aFrench and American oak-aged. cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Marsden Bay of Islands smooth finish. Easy-drinkingVery good depth of berry, Shows considerable maturity, Syrah 2009 HHHH style, but two judges noted aspice and slight herb flavours, with good depth of nutty, Northland red showing lack of real depth. $27showing good balance and herbal flavours. Ready. $25 excellent depth and complexity. Karikari Estatesome savoury complexity. $22 Savoury and supple, with fruit Hell Hole 2008 HHH Passage Rock cake, spice and chocolate Full-flavoured Northland blendLake Road Gisborne Reserve Cabernet notes, seasoned with sweet of cabernet franc and merlot.Merlot 2010 HHH Sauvignon 2009 HHH oak. Drinking well now. $35 Coffee and spice characters,Generous, sweet-fruited red with Deeply coloured Waiheke Island Passage Rock Reserve with a herbal thread and someripe, plummy flavours, a hint of red, full-bodied, with strong Syrah 2009 HHH spicy complexity. $22herbs and moderate complexity. plum, spice and slight herb Full-coloured Waiheke Island Karikari EstateEasy-drinking style. $18 flavours, fresh acidity and a red with good depth of plum, Pinotage 2008 HHH firm, tightly structured finish. spice and herb flavours and Grown in the Far North, thisMatawhero Gisborne Still unfolding; open 2013+. $35 some savoury complexity, but is a generous, brambly, nutty,Merlot 2009 HHH less lush than the 2010. $40 slightly herbal and leathery redSweetly oaked style, with plenty SYRAH with a slightly grippy finish.of berryish, spicy flavour and Drink now onwards. $39some savoury complexity, but a 7 TASTED Marsden Bay of Islandsslightly hard, drying finish. $25 4 AWARDED Chambourcin 2009 HHH Deeply coloured, smooth Passage Rock’s outstanding Northland red, showing some performance underlined the richness and a nutty, earthy soaring status of Waiheke complexity. $26 Island syrah. The variety Pukeko Vineyard Bay is also emerging as one of of Islands Sticky Beak Northland’s regional strengths, Chambourcin 2010 HHH as shown by Marsden Estate’s Deeply coloured Northland red, excellent 2009 vintage, grown made in a simple, fruit-packed at the Bay of Islands. style, fresh and plummy. Very gluggable. $22JUDGES James Rowan Cameron Douglas Winemaker at West A senior lecturer in wine Michael Cooper Brook Winery, in and beverages at AUT, Winestate’s New Zealand Auckland, James has a Cameron is the sole editor is the author of the postgraduate diploma in Master Sommelier in internationally acclaimed Wine viticulture and oenology New Zealand or Australia. Atlas of New Zealand and from Lincoln University the annual Michael Cooper’s and is a senior national Buyer’s Guide to New Zealand wine judge. Wines. In the 2004 New Year Honours, Michael was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit for services to wine writing.158 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

MICHAEL COOPERHawke’s Bay reds from the much-touted, unusually Craggy Range Pisa Range Black Poplarhot and dry 2009 harvest stood out among the latest The Quarry 2009 Block Pinot Noir 2008batch of releases. The excellent barrel-aged sauvignon Powerful but not heavy, this Slowly evolving Central Otagoblancs, from Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay, are also Gimblett Gravels red is based red, deep and still youthful inwell worth tracking down. entirely on cabernet sauvignon. colour. Finely scented, with Matured for 20 months in cherry, plum and spice flavours,Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. French oak barriques, it is nutty and savoury, showingWines available in export markets are shown as deeply coloured and rich, excellent richness, complexity(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). with highly concentrated, and harmony. Powerful wine for blackcurrant-like flavours, hints the long haul. $48 (A, UK, US) Craggy Range Le Sol 2009 of plums and spices, and fine, Seresin Reserve This deeply coloured Gimblett supple tannins. $59.95 (A, UK) Marlborough SauvignonBabich Irongate Gravels syrah is already highly Blanc 2009Cabernet Merlot 2009 approachable. Matured in French Newton-Forrest Estate A great wine. From the oldestStylish, rich and flowing Gimblett oak barriques, it has a fragrant, Cornerstone 2007 vines in the Home VineyardGravels blend of cabernet spicy, slightly nutty bouquet. Deliciously rich and rounded and partly barrel-fermented, itsauvignon, merlot and cabernet Dense and smooth, with cassis, Gimblett Gravels blend of is authoritative, mouthfilling,franc. Very elegant wine in the plum and black pepper flavours. cabernet sauvignon, merlot, concentrated and dry, withBordeaux mould, with deep Should unfold well over the next malbec and cabernet franc. fresh, deep melon/limeblackcurrant, plum and spice decade. $99.95 (A, UK, US) Up-front, almost hedonistic flavours, a hint of nuts, andflavours, finely integrated French Craggy Range Les Beaux wine with compelling depth lovely vibrancy, complexity andoak and ripe, supple tannins. Cailloux 2009 of ripe blackcurrant, plum and length. $55 (A, UK, US)Best 2014+. $34.95 Very classy chardonnay from spice flavours and a smooth, Staete Landt AnnabelBabich The Patriarch 2009 the Gimblett Gravels. Slightly sustained finish. Lovely Marlborough SauvignonDark, powerful Gimblett creamy and minerally, with mouthful. $50 Blanc 2010Gravels blend of cabernet lovely delicacy and depth of Johanneshof Classic, ripe, non-herbaceoussauvignon, malbec and peach, pear and grapefruit Noble Late Harvest style from the Rapaura district.cabernet franc. Highly fragrant, flavours, it is weighty and Riesling 2008 (375ml) Estate-grown in a singlewith coffee and spice aromas, finely textured, with mealy, Lovely now, but likely to be vineyard and partly barrel-mouthfilling body and fresh, biscuity and nutty notes long-lived, this fresh, honey- fermented, it is fleshy and rich,concentrated blackcurrant, dark adding complexity. Open sweet Marlborough wine was with deep, passionfruit-likechocolate and plum flavours. 2012+. $59.95 (A) fermented in tanks and French flavours, a vague hint of oak,Best 2013+. $59.95 (A) Craggy Range Sophia 2009 oak barrels. Light gold, with minerally notes and excellentChurch Road Delicious rich, ripe and smooth a nectareous bouquet and complexity. $23.95 (A, UK, US)Reserve Hawke’s Bay in its youth, this Gimblett flavours, it has very rich peach Trinity Hill GimblettSauvignon Blanc 2010 Gravels blend of merlot and and apricot flavours, enlivened Gravels Syrah 2009Fleshy, rich and complex, an cabernet sauvignon also has by racy acidity. $36 Beautifully rich and harmoniousoutstanding example of wood- splashes of cabernet franc red, hand-picked, co-fermentedaged sauvignon blanc. Estate- and petit verdot. Matured with viognier and barrique-agedgrown and fermented with for 18 months in French oak for 15 months. Deeply coloured,indigenous yeasts in French barriques, it is deeply coloured, with strong plum, spice, blackoak barriques, it’s powerful full-bodied, sweet-fruited and pepper and nut flavours and aand very full-bodied, with supple. $69.95 (A, UK, US) foundation of ripe, supple tannins.concentrated, ripe, stone-fruit Pegasus Bay Riesling 2009 Drink now or cellar. $34 (A, UK)flavours and a long, slightly Medium style, estate-grown at Villa Maria Singlecreamy finish. $36.95 Waipara, with lovely intensity Vineyard Southern Clays and poise. Concentrated, with Marlborough Sauvignon fresh grapefruit and peach Blanc 2010 flavours, slightly spicy and Powerful style, pungently honeyed, crisp acidity and a scented, with a hint of ‘sweaty musky perfume. Drink now or armpit’. Lovely freshness and cellar. $27.95 (A, UK, US) intensity, with crisp, vibrant gooseberry, lime and passionfruit flavours, ripe, dry and very long. Outstanding. $27 (UK) July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 159

MICHAEL COOPER½ Cloudy Bay Riesling 2006 Odyssey Marlborough Seresin Leah Marlborough Drinking well now but likely Pinot Noir 2009 Pinot Noir 2009Brancott Estate to be very long-lived, this The best vintage yet of Delicious now, this three-site‘F’ Fairhall Marlborough Marlborough wine is a medium- this label. The bouquet is blend is a very ‘feminine’ stylePinot Gris 2010 dry style with a youthful, highly scented; the palate of pinot noir, finely scented,Mouthfilling, ripely scented and lemon/green hue. Citrusy, concentrated, sweet-fruited and savoury and supple. Unfinedsoftly textured, this wine was spicy, minerally and toasty, savoury, with rich, vibrant plum and unfiltered, it offersmostly hand-harvested and then it’s tightly structured, with and spice flavours, seasoned strong strawberry, cherry andfermented in tanks and wooden firm acid spine and excellent with oak, a hint of herbs, and spice flavours, with loads ofcuves. Weighty, with strong intensity. $29.90 (A) good tannin support. Complex personality. $38 (A, UK, US)pear, lychee and spice flavours, Lake Forsyth Banks style. Drink now or cellar. $31 Trinity Hill Gimblettgood complexity, an oily texture Peninsula Pinot Gris 2009 Odyssey Reserve Iliad Gravels Arneis 2010and excellent harmony. $34.95 Fleshy, rich, Alsace-style Gisborne Chardonnay 2009 Tight, youthful, quietlyBrancott Estate ‘R’ wine, grown in Canterbury Fleshy, rich, ripe and well- satisfying wine, hand-pickedRenwick Marlborough and lees-aged in tanks and rounded wine, hand-picked and fermented and lees-aged inSauvignon Gris 2010 French oak. Slightly creamy from ‘old’ vines in the Kawatiri old barrels. Full-bodied and dry,From an old French variety, aromas, with mouthfilling Vineyard and fully barrel- with strong, citrusy flavours,cultivated in Bordeaux, this body and concentrated fermented. Highly fragrant, hints of herbs and nuts, andmouthfilling, ripely herbal stone-fruit and spice flavours, slightly toasty bouquet, leading obvious potential. $34 (UK)wine has excellent intensity of showing good complexity. Full into a peachy, sweet-fruited Villa Maria Cellargrapefruit and lime flavours, of personality. $32 palate in the classic regional Selection Hawke’s Baylively acidity and a long, tight, Mondillo Central Otago style. $35 Viognier 2010dry finish. Pure and punchy, Pinot Noir 2010 Pegasus Bay Virtuoso This finely crafted, poisedwith excellent delicacy and Enticingly floral, smooth red, Chardonnay 2008 and immaculate wine isfreshness. $34.95 aged for 10 months in French Rich, tightly structured fresh, ripely scented andCraggy Range Aroha 2009 oak barriques. Full-coloured Waipara wine with fragrant, mouthfilling, with stone-fruitSilky-textured, single-vineyard and weighty, with strong, fresh nutty bouquet, with indigenous and spice flavours. Dry, vibrantred, hand-harvested and cherry, plum and spice flavours, yeast complexity, and and long. Tightly structured.matured for more than a year in supple, intensely varietal and concentrated grapefruit, peach Best opened 2012+. $24French oak casks. Ruby-hued, very harmonious. Open mid- and nut flavours, crisp and Villa Maria Cellarmouthfilling and supple, with 2012+. $40 (A, US) minerally. Cool-climate style Selection Marlboroughcherry, plum and spice flavours, with real verve and ‘drive’, still Dry Riesling 2010ripe and savoury. A ‘forward’ Mud House The Woolshed unfolding. $48.95 (A, UK) A baby. Fresh, tight,vintage. $99.95 Vineyard Marlborough Seresin Marlborough concentrated wine with citrusy Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Viognier 2009 flavours, hints of passionfruit,Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2009 Refined, sweet-fruited wine, Weighty, fully dry style, limes and spices, good acidSavoury, ruby-hued estate-grown and tank- showing excellent body, spine, and excellent delicacy andMarlborough red, very graceful fermented. Fully dry, with concentration and complexity. depth. Dryish, finely balanced,and harmonious. Mouthfilling, a minerally streak and good Barrel-fermented, fleshy, long finish. Best 2013+. $24 (US)with ripe cherry, plum, spice intensity of youthful melon, sweet-fruited and rounded,and nut flavours, showing lime and green capsicum with peachy, mealy flavours, Waipara Hills Centralexcellent complexity, and flavours, showing excellent hints of melons and spices, Otago Pinot Noir 2009a rounded, lingering finish. delicacy and length. Youthful and a finely textured, rich, Seductively scented and supple,Youthful wine, well worth wine, full of promise. $25 (A) harmonious finish. $55 (UK) very graceful. Ruby-hued, withcellaring. $44.90 (A, UK, US) Seresin Rachel strong, fresh cherry and plum Marlborough flavours, deft oak handling adding Pinot Noir 2008 a savoury, nutty complexity, and Deeply coloured, sturdy blend gentle tannins. Floral, ‘feminine’ of grapes from three company- style with considerable cellaring owned sites, given lengthy potential. $29.90 barrel maturation and bottled Waipara Hills Equinox unfined and unfiltered. Waipara Riesling 2010 Mouthfilling, with ripe cherry, Highly scented, concentrated plum, spice and nut flavours, in a medium style with ripe, concentrated, very savoury style. peachy, limey, slightly gingery Best 2012+. $57 (A, UK, US) and honeyed flavours, rich and Vavasour Awatere Valley rounded. Already drinking well, Chardonnay 2010 with good personality and Already delicious, this top-value harmony. $29.90 Marlborough wine is fleshy, concentrated and complex, with a powerful presence. Very full-bodied, with strong, ripe melon and peach flavours, fresh acidity, mealy, biscuity notes and a creamy-smooth texture. $25 (A, UK)160 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

recent releasesWaipara Hills Equinox Black Stilt Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay Johanneshof CellarsWaipara Pinot Noir 2009 Waitaki Valley North Chardonnay 2010 Blanc de Noirs NVEstate-grown wine, very Otago Pinot Gris 2010 Fleshy, smooth wine, Made from barrel-agedharmonious, enticingly floral, Richly scented and vibrantly fermented in tanks and barrels. Marlborough pinot noir andsweet-fruited, savoury and fruity, with strong, slightly sweet Rich, ripe and rounded, with disgorged after three years on itssupple, with good complexity. flavours of peaches, pears and sweet-fruit delights and yeast lees. Pale straw, it has anMouthfilling, it is intensely spices, woven with appetising strong, peachy, slightly spicy inviting scented, slightly biscuityvarietal, with cherry, plum, herb acidity. Slightly minerally, with flavours, showing considerable bouquet. Crisp and lively, citrusy,and spice flavours that build excellent delicacy, varietal complexity. $24 (UK, US) nutty and yeasty, with excellentwell across the palate. $29.90 character and depth. $26 Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay freshness and complexity. $37 Borthwick Vineyard Pinot Gris 2010 Kahurangi Estate Moutere Wairarapa Pinot Gris 2010 Distinctly Alsace style, hand- Dry Riesling 2009 Finely poised wine, fermented picked and fermented in tanks Tight, lemony Nelson wine withAbbey Cellars in tanks and seasoned oak and seasoned oak barriques. a minerally streak and very goodRapture 2009 barrels. Fleshy and vibrant, with Weighty and smooth, with depth of citrusy, limey, slightlyDeeply coloured, merlot- fresh, ripe stone-fruit, lychee strong peach, lychee and spice spicy flavour. Good freshness,based blend from Hawke’s and spice flavours, a touch of flavours, showing very good vigour and intensity. Should beBay with rich blackcurrant and complexity and a fully dry finish. ripeness and depth, a touch long-lived; open 2012+. $17.90plum flavours, hints of spices Cool-climate style with good of complexity and an off-dry, Kahurangi Estate Mtand nuts, and gentle tannins. immediacy. $25.50 (A, UK, US) softly textured finish. $24 (UK) Arthur Reserve NelsonGenerous, early-drinking style, Gibson Bridge Cellar Chardonnay 2010showing some concentration Bouldevines Marlborough Selection Marlborough Robust, powerful wine withand class. $21 Riesling 2010 Pinot Gris 2010 high alcohol (14.5%), freshAra Single Estate Single-vineyard wine, fleshy Fleshy and rounded, with acidity and a strong surge ofMarlborough Sauvignon and fully dry, but not austere. good complexity. Mouthfilling ripe, peachy, toasty flavour.Blanc 2010 Mouthfilling, with good intensity body, with fresh, peachy, Made in a traditional, up-Weighty, with tropical fruit of peachy, slightly citrusy spicy, vaguely toasty flavours, front mould with lots of oakflavours, reminiscent of flavours in a ‘serious’ style with showing excellent depth, in a showing, but also real depthpassionfruit. Restrained, ripe excellent delicacy, ripeness and slightly chardonnay-like style through the palate. $25style with fresh acidity, very richness. $19.90 (A) with a dryish finish. $30 Moana Park Small Batchgood richness and harmony Distant Land Marlborough Gibson Bridge Sauvignon Blanc 2010and a dry, finely balanced Gewurztraminer 2010 Reserve Marlborough Fleshy, complex Hawke’sfinish. $21.95 (A, UK, US) Musky, perfumed, intensely Pinot Gris 2010 Bay wine, hand-picked andArrow Junction Hawke’s varietal bouquet. Full-bodied, Full-bodied and fresh, single- given full barrel fermentationBay Syrah 2009 with good weight, strong pear, vineyard wine with good and malolactic fermentation.Classy, fruit-packed Gimblett lychee and spice flavours, with concentration of peachy, Concentrated, with ripe,Gravels red, French oak- hints of oranges and ginger, slightly gingery and spicy tropical fruit flavours,matured. Floral, rich and and a slightly sweet, smooth, flavours, with a hint of apricot. seasoned with nutty oak, andsupple, with deep, bright lingering finish. $20 (A, UK, US) Slightly oily texture, with a excellent texture, richness andcolour, fresh blackcurrant, plum Distant Land Marlborough dryish, spicy finish. Drink now roundness. Open 2012-13. $25and spice flavours and a subtle Pinot Gris 2010 or cellar. $29 Mud House Waiparaseasoning of nutty oak. Best Full-bodied and fresh, with good Goldwater Wairau Riesling 20102012+. (From wine distributor concentration of ripe peach, Valley Marlborough Lemon-scented, single-vineyardFederal Geo.) $31.50 spice and nectarine flavours, Chardonnay 2010 wine, estate-grown. Medium-Aurum Central Otago showing excellent delicacy and Attractively fresh and rich, with dry style, very harmonious,Pinot Gris 2010 vibrancy, and a finely balanced, mouthfilling body and strong, with lemony, appley flavours,Fresh, youthful, full-bodied off-dry finish. $20 (A, UK, US) ripe peach and melon flavours. showing good delicacy andwine, tank-fermented and lees- Distant Land Marlborough Vibrantly fruity, with finely freshness, finely balanced aciditystirred. Shows excellent purity Riesling 2010 integrated, biscuity oak and a and a lingering finish. $19 (A, UK)and delicacy of peach and Very open and expressive, with slightly creamy finish. Already Murrays Roadlychee flavours, with gentle strong, lemony, limey flavours, delicious. $25 Marlborough Sauvignonsweetness and a slightly oily a hint of passionfruit, and gentle Goldwater Wairau Blanc 2010richness. Intensely varietal, sweetness balanced by lively Valley Marlborough Freshly aromatic bouquet.worth cellaring. $24.50 (A) acidity. Excellent freshness, poise Pinot Noir 2010 Mouthfilling and very and vivacity. $20 (A, UK, US) Fleshy, generous red, matured finely balanced, with ripely for nine months in French oak herbaceous flavours, slightly barriques. Ruby-hued, with leesy and showing good mouthfilling body and excellent intensity. $24.95 (A, UK, US) depth of ripe cherry and plum flavours. Finely balanced, complex, smooth and skilfully crafted for early appeal. $28 (A) July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 161

MICHAEL COOPERRock Ferry Marlborough Trinity Hill Gimblett Woollaston Nelson Borthwick VineyardBlanc de Blancs 2007 Gravels Viognier 2010 Riesling 2010 Wairarapa Riesling 2010Chardonnay-based, with tight- Fleshy, softly textured wine, Delicious, drink-young style. Still very youthful. Medium-knit, citrusy, yeasty flavours, hand-picked and fermented From hand-picked grapes, bodied style with fresh, ripe,showing excellent delicacy and and briefly lees-aged in French it is very fresh, crisp and lemony flavours, a distinctfreshness. Disgorged after 2½ oak casks. Peachy and slightly lively, with strong lemon/ hint of passionfruit, slightyears on its yeast lees, it is biscuity, with good complexity lime flavours, hints of apricot sweetness, and very goodscented, very lively and lemony, and richness and a dry finish. and passionfruit, and gentle balance and depth. Best mid-with good intensity and a dry, Worth cellaring. $34 sweetness adding an easy- 2012+. $22.50 (UK, US)harmonious finish. $39 Vavasour Awatere Valley drinking appeal. $19 (UK) Bouldevines MarlboroughSileni The Priestess Pinot Gris 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 2010Hawke’s Bay Fragrant, full-bodied wine, ½ Fleshy, fully dry style with goodPinot Gris 2010 mostly handled in tanks. Strong, depth of ripe, non-herbaceous,Grown in The Triangle sub- vibrant peach, pear and spice Akarua Central Otago tropical fruit flavours, enlivenedregion, this is a full-bodied flavours, with a subtle seasoning Pinot Gris 2010 by crisp acidity. $19.90 (A)style with concentrated of oak, and good varietal Estate-grown at Bannockburn C J Pask Gimblett Roadstone-fruit and spice flavours. character and harmony. $22 and 15% barrel-fermented. Syrah 2009Rich, ripe and rounded, with Villa Maria Cellar Scented and mouthfilling, with Fruit-driven style, full-coloured,considerable complexity, it is Selection Hawke’s Bay very fresh and youthful, vibrantly fresh, vibrantly fruity and supple.drinking well now. $25 Arneis 2010 fruity flavours of pears, lychees Strongly varietal red with ripeSileni The Triangle Scented, strongly varietal wine and spices, a sliver of sweetness, plum, cherry and black pepperHawke’s Bay Merlot 2009 with good body, delicacy and and some complexity. Best flavours, a subtle seasoningElegant, mouthfilling and supple freshness, hints of herbs and 2012+. $26.90 (A, UK) of oak, and lots of drink-youngred, matured in French and almonds, and a crisp, dry, Akarua Rua Central Otago charm. $19.99 (A, UK)American oak barrels. Full- lingering finish. Should open Pinot Noir 2010 Distant Land Marlboroughcoloured, with plum and spice out well. $31.60 Deeply coloured Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc 2011flavours, showing good, savoury Voss Martinborough red with fresh, strong plum and Punchy and racy, with greencomplexity and fine, ripe tannins. Pinot Noir 2009 spice flavours. Loads of fruit. capsicum and lime aromasBest drinking 2012+. $25 (UK) Ruby-hued, supple and sweet- Slightly raw and youthful, but leading into a strongly varietalStaete Landt Marlborough fruited, with fresh, ripe cherry, shows good concentration. Best wine, vibrantly fruity, crisp andChardonnay 2009 plum, spice and nut flavours, drinking 2012+. $24.90 (A, UK) dry. $20 (A, UK, US)Single-vineyard wine, hand- showing good complexity. Ara Pathway Marlborough Durvillea Marlboroughpicked in the Wairau Valley and Finely textured wine, drinking Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 2010barrel-fermented. Creamy, rich well. $39.95 (A, US) Single-vineyard Waihopai From Astrolabe, this clearlyand rounded, with fullness of Voss Reserve Valley wine, mouthfilling and herbaceous style with punchy,body and good concentration Chardonnay 2009 dry, with ripe melon, lime and ‘tomato stalk’ aromas leadingof stone-fruit and spice flavour, Barrel-fermented green capsicum flavours. Crisp into a melon and greenmealy and biscuity. Drink now Martinborough wine, fresh and and slightly minerally, with capsicum-flavoured wine,onwards. $29.95 (A, UK, US) elegant, with citrusy, mealy very good weight, balance and fresh, intensely varietal, strongStonecroft Serine Gimblett flavours, subtle use of oak, depth. $18.95 (A, UK, US) and lively. $16Gravels Syrah 2009 balanced acidity and a rounded, Astrolabe Marlborough Eradus AwatereEstate-grown and barrel-aged for dry finish. Not a ‘showy’ style, Chardonnay 2008 Valley Marlborough18 months, this Hawke’s Bay but has depth and finesse. $28 Moderately complex style, Pinot Gris 2010red is unusually savoury. Not Waipara Hills Equinox maturing well, with mouthfilling Easy-drinking style, mouthfillingboldly fruity but finely textured, Waipara Pinot Gris 2010 body and very good depth of and creamy-textured, withwith a floral bouquet and spicy, Estate-grown in the Glasnevin citrusy, peachy, toasty flavours. citrusy, peachy, spicy flavours,nutty flavours. Still youthful, with Vineyard, this powerful, big- Fleshy and slightly buttery, with very fresh, vibrant and finelyunderlying tannins. $25 (A) bodied wine has fresh pear, a sweet oak influence. $24 balanced. $18 (A, UK, US)Te Mania Nelson Koha Ice lychee and apricot flavours, a Babich Individual Vineyard Explorer Central OtagoWine 2009 (375ml) minerally streak and a dry, spicy Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Pinot Noir 2009Instantly appealing dessert finish. Still very youthful. $29.90 Bay Chardonnay 2010 This estate-grown, Lowburnwine from hand-picked riesling Weeping Sands Mouthfilling, fresh and red is good value. Ruby-grapes, freeze-concentrated in Waiheke Island youthful. Dry and gently oaked, hued, fruity and supple, withtanks. Sweet, pure and finely Cabernet Merlot 2008 with citrusy, slightly minerally very satisfying depth of ripe,balanced, with very fresh, Generous, deeply coloured and buttery flavours, showing cherryish, spicy, slightly nuttylemony, appley aromas and red, offering top value by the very good delicacy and depth. flavours, showing someflavours, lively and long. $21.90 island’s standards. Full-bodied Best drinking mid-2012+. $25 savoury complexity. Sturdy andTerrace Edge Waipara and smooth, with strong, ripe Babich Individual Vineyard characterful. (From SurveyorValley Syrah 2009 blackcurrant, plum and spice Fernhill Viognier 2010 Thomson.) $24 (A, UK, US)Powerful, distinctly peppery flavours and a hint of sweet Dry, full-bodied Hawke’s Bayred. Full-coloured and oak. Drink now or cellar. $26 wine, sweet-fruited, withmouthfilling, with strong plum, citrusy, slightly peachy flavoursspice and nut flavours, an showing good depth and someearthy streak, gentle tannins complexity. Very youthful, welland good complexity. The best worth cellaring. $25vintage to date. $22.75 (A)162 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

recent releasesGeorges Michel La Moana Park Hawke’s BayReserve Marlborough Merlot Malbec 2010Viognier 2010 Very good quaffer, offeringFleshy, flavoursome wine, loads of brambly, spicy flavourfermented and matured for and a hint of licorice. Full-eight months in barrels. Sturdy, coloured, sweet-fruited andwith citrusy, peachy, slightly firm, with some complexity.buttery flavours, some ‘funky’ Grown in the Gimblett Gravels,notes, considerable complexity French oak-aged and bottledand a rounded finish. $26 unfined and unfiltered. $19Georges Michel Moana Park LimitedLegend Marlborough Edition Merlot 2009Pinot Noir 2009 Sturdy Gimblett Gravels red,Ruby-hued, with a hint of French oak-aged for 18 months.development. Mouthfilling and Mouthfilling, brambly and spicy,sweet-fruited, with good depth with good, savoury complexityof cherry and spice flavours. and plenty of personality. $29Savoury, complex style with firm Moana Park Hawke’s Baytannins. Drink now or cellar. $46 Viognier 2010Gibbston Highgate Estate Enjoyable, drink-young style,Soultaker Pinot Noir 2009 blended from grapes grownVibrant, supple red, estate- at Gimblett Road, Te Awangagrown, French oak-matured and and the Dartmoor Valley.bottled unfined and unfiltered. Fleshy and forward, with veryFruit-driven style with drink- good depth of ripe, peachyyoung appeal, offering plenty of flavour, softly textured andfresh, ripe, cherryish, plummy harmonious. $19 (UK, US)flavour, skillfully balanced for Mud House Central Otagoearly drinking. $32 Pinot Noir 2009Gibbston Valley Blanc de Lightly oaked style, partly barrel-Pinot Noir 2010 aged, with a floral bouquet andPink/pale red rosé, floral, very good depth of red berry,buoyantly fruity and smooth. plum and herb flavours, freshFresh, berryish, slightly spicy and supple. Charming, mid-flavours, with good depth weight red with some savouryand an easy-drinking charm. complexity. $24.95 (A, UK, US)Drinking well now. $25 (A, UK) Murrays Road MarlboroughGibbston Valley Chardonnay 2009Gold River Central Otago Lively and fruity, moderatelyPinot Noir 2010 complex style with very goodDrink-young style with loads of depth of ripe, citrusy, peachyfresh, vibrant, cherry and plum flavour and a slightly butteryflavour. Buoyantly fruity, with a finish. Drink now-2012. $26gentle seasoning of oak, some Murray Road Marlboroughsubstance, and gentle tannins. Pinot Gris 2010Still very youthful; best drinking Faintly pink-hued, single-vineyard2012+. $30 (A, UK) wine from the heart of theGibson Bridge Marlborough Wairau Plains. Full-bodied, withPinot Rosé 2010 generous, peachy, spicy flavoursThis ‘pinot’ rosé is made from and a slightly sweet, well-pinot gris, rather than the more rounded finish. $26 (A, UK, US)customary pinot noir. Pale pink/ Nanny Goatorange, with a touch of barrel- Vineyard Central Otagoferment complexity, it is full- Pinot Noir 2009bodied, peachy and spicy, with Ruby-hued, floral, intenselygood depth and a dryish finish. varietal red, grown at Gibbston.Good ‘food’ wine. $22 Moderately concentrated, withMap Maker Marlborough fresh, vibrant cherry and plumSauvignon Blanc 2010 flavours, gently seasoned withEstate-grown at Rapaura, oak, and supple tannins. $36with a small portion of barrelfermentation, this is a fresh, crispand lively wine with tropical fruitflavours, showing very gooddepth, and a touch of complexity.(from Staete Landt). $18.95 (A) July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 163

MICHAEL COOPERPisa Range Estate Central Thornbury Gisborne Whitehaven Marlborough Georges Michel LaOtago Pinot Gris 2010 Chardonnay 2010 Pinot Noir 2009 Reserve MarlboroughYouthful, dry style with very High-flavoured style, vibrant, Floral, ruby-hued, very Syrah 2009good body and depth of citrusy, peachy and toasty, with ripe supple red with moderately Youthful, full-coloured red,peachy, slightly appley and fruit characters and a smooth, concentrated strawberry, herb matured for over a year inspicy flavours, threaded with slightly buttery finish. Best and spice flavours, showing French oak barrels. Fresh, fruityfresh acidity. Hand-picked, tank- drinking 2012+ (from Villa some savoury complexity. and supple, with blackcurrant,fermented and lees-aged, it has Maria). $21 Middleweight style, drinking spice and nut flavours andsome cellaring potential. $28 (A) Thornbury Waipara well now. $29.95 (A, UK, US) some funky, slightly rusticSileni Cellar Selection Pinot Gris 2010 Wild Rock Gravel Pit notes. $31Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Attractively scented, with cool- Red Hawke’s Bay Merlot Gibbston HighgateFranc Rosé 2010 climate freshness and vibrancy. Malbec 2009 Estate DreammakerBright pink/pale red, with a floral Pure, delicate lychee and pear Full-coloured, fruity and smooth, Pinot Gris 2010bouquet and fresh raspberry/ flavours, slightly spicy, with a with very satisfying depth of Single-vineyard, Gibbston wine,spice flavours, buoyantly fruity gentle splash of sweetness and blackcurrant, plum and spice tank-fermented and made in anand smooth. Dryish style with lively acidity on the finish. $21 flavour and ripe, rounded off-dry style. Medium-bodied,very good balance and depth. Vavasour Awatere tannins. Softly textured wine, rather Germanic style, withGood value at $16. (A) Valley Marlborough already drinking well. $22 (A, UK) crisp acidity woven through itsSileni Parkhill Hawke’s Pinot Noir 2009 Woollaston Nelson lemony, slightly peachy andBay Pinot Gris 2010 Supple, savoury, moderately rich Pinot Gris 2010 appley flavours. $22.50Hand-picked in a coastal red, ruby-hued, with cherryish, From grapes under conversion Gibbston Highgatevineyard and 50% barrel- plummy, slightly spicy flavours, to organic, this is a fresh, crisp, Estate Summer Breezefermented, this fresh, lemon- showing good texture and full-bodied wine, slightly sweet, Sauvignon Blanc 2010scented wine is medium-bodied, depth, and some complexity. with citrus fruit, peach and spice From ‘old vines’ at Gibbston.with vibrant, citrusy flavours Tastes ready. $30 (A, UK, US) flavours showing good delicacy, Medium-bodied, fresh andshowing some oak/lees-ageing Vidal Hawke’s Bay harmony and depth. $20 (US) lively, with citrusy, appleycomplexity, and very good Chardonnay 2010 flavours showing some leesyharmony and length. $25 Mouthfilling, very fresh and  complexity, appetising aciditySprig by Bouldevines vibrantly fruity wine. Grapefruit and good length. $18Marlborough and slight spice flavours, with C J Pask Gimblett Road Gibson BridgePinot Noir 2009 some mealy notes and a very Merlot 2008 Reserve MarlboroughEstate-grown in the Bouldevines subtle oak influence. Elegant, Full, slightly developed colour. Gewurztraminer 2010Vineyard and barrel-aged for youthful wine with a touch of Hawke’s Bay red with plummy, Still very youthful. Weighty,10 months, this is a fleshy, complexity. $21 (UK) slightly spicy and nutty flavours, slightly sweet style withgenerous red, full-coloured, with Vidal Marlborough showing some savoury fresh, delicate pear and lycheeripe, plummy flavours, showing Riesling 2010 complexity, and a firm finish. flavours, slightly limey andmoderate complexity, and a Still very youthful. Mouthfilling Drink now. $19.99 (A, UK) citrusy. Should unfold well;smooth finish. $19.90 (A) style with crisp, citrusy, appley Clifford Bay Marlborough open 2012+. $25Surveyor Thomson Central aromas and flavours and a dryish Chardonnay 2010 Kahurangi Estate NelsonOtago Pinot Noir 2007 finish. Shows very good body, Mouthfilling wine (14.5% alc) Montepulciano 2010Single-vineyard red from freshness and depth; open mid- with strong, lemony, slightly Fruit-driven style with deep,Lowburn, this moderately 2012 onwards. $21 ((UK) buttery flavours and a fresh, purple-flushed colour. Fresh,mature wine has a nutty, smooth finish. Enjoyable vibrant and smooth, withspicy bouquet leading into a young. $20 generous, plummy, slightlyfirm and savoury palate. Slight Clifford Bay Marlborough spicy flavours and a hint oflack of softness and charm, Pinot Noir 2010 sweet oak. Works well as abut also very good depth and Ruby-hued red, floral and drink-young style. $21.50complexity. $42.50 (A, UK, US) sweet-fruited, with satisfying Lake Chalice Hawke’s Bay depth of ripe plum and red Syrah 2010 STAR RATINGS  berry flavours, slightly spicy Barrel-aged for 10 months, this and smooth. Lots of drink- floral, supple, fruit-driven styleThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of young appeal. $24 (A, US) has vibrant cherry, plum andexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Dashwood Marlborough spice flavours, showing goodAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Chardonnay 2010 depth, gentle tannins, and lots ofprofessionals and are compared in peer Fruit-driven style, grown in the drink-young charm. $19.90 (UK)classes by three judges. Awatere and Wairau valleys. Moana Park Hawke’s BayCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Peachy, ripe and smooth, with Chardonnay 2010a major mail-order business. a hint of oak and a slightly Half tank, half barrel-fermentedCD Cellar door price. creamy texture. Skilfully wine, grown at Te Awanga.CDO Cellar door only. balanced for easy, early Mouthfilling, vibrantly fruity,SO Sold out. drinking. $17 peachy and smooth, with$N/A Price not available at time of printing. slightly buttery and toasty notes adding interest. Contact information pg 168. Enjoyable young. $19 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).164 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

recent releasesMoana Park Hawke’s Bay Spy Valley MarlboroughPinot Gris 2010 Syrah 2009Easy-drinking style, full-bodied, Hand-picked and French oak-fruity and slightly sweet, with aged, this full-bodied, fresh andpeachy, citrusy, spicy flavours supple red has good depth ofand a well-rounded finish. Grown plummy, spicy, toasty flavours,in the Dartmoor Valley and tank- a slightly rustic streak and afermented. $19 (A, UK, US) smooth finish. $29Moana Park Hawke’s Bay Three Miners CentralSyrah 2010 Otago Pinot Gris 2010Drink-young red, grown From the Earnscleugh Valley,in Gimblett Road and the a mouthfilling wine with goodDartmoor Valley. Full-coloured, depth of fresh citrusy, gentlywith gentle tannins and fresh, spicy flavours, balanced aciditystrongly varietal plum and black and a fully dry finish. Shouldpepper flavours. Supple, with a drink well over the next couplepinot noir-ish appeal. $19 of years. $22 (A)Richmond Plains Nelson Three Miners Steve Bird is known for his non-conformistAdmiral 2010 Earnscleugh Valley approach to winemaking and consistently pushes theDeep, purple-flushed blend of Gewurztraminer 2010 boundaries while paying homage to the past. Steve ismerlot, malbec and cabernet Fleshy, barrel-fermented style unashamedly obsessive about his craft. His passion hasfranc, French oak-aged and with ‘funky’ aromas reflecting reaped a raft of top awards, and produced a selection ofcertified organic. Vibrantly fruity, a strong indigenous yeastwith smooth blackcurrant, plum influence. Full-bodied, with New Zealand’s finest new world wines.and spice flavours and drink- very good depth of peach, The Bird label is a selection of ultra premium single-young charm. $22 lychee and spice flavours and a vineyard wines from Marlborough. Manu, which is theRichmond Plains Nelson rounded, dry finish. $22 (A) Maori word for “bird” is another handcrafted wine byPinot Noir 2010 Tussock Nelson Steve where he personally selects the very best grapesCertified organic. Ruby-hued, Pinot Gris 2010 available to achieve distinctive and memorable wines.floral and supple, with ripe, Freshly scented, fleshy andmoderately concentrated dryish, with mouthfilling Available in Victoria throughstrawberry and spice body, lemony, slightly appley Horizon Wines & Spirits ph: +61 41856 3567 or inflavours, balanced for easy and spicy flavours and a NSW through Waratah Wines ph: +61 24739 8915drinking. $22.90 (A) smooth finish. Ready (from www.birdwines.com ph: +64 7 927 2377 e: [email protected] Ferry Central Otago Woollaston Estates). $18Tempranillo 2009 Vidal East CoastFresh, fruity and smooth, this Pinot Gris 2010rare red was grown at Bendigo, Fresh, vibrant, dryish wine,French oak-aged for a year, and grown in Gisborne, Hawke’sbottled unfined and unfiltered. Bay, Marlborough and Waipara.Lightish in colour, with good but Good all-purpose wine, withnot great depth of strawberry decent depth of pear and spiceand spice flavours. $39 flavours and a slightly oilySileni Late Harvest texture. Ready to roll. $21Hawke’s Bay Semillon2010 (375ml)Easy-drinking style with adistinct late harvest feel. Light-bodied, with gentle sweetnessand smooth, ripe pear, spiceand pineapple flavours, whichshow good harmony. $19.50Spy Valley MarlboroughMerlot Malbec 2009Deeply coloured, vibrantly fruityand smooth, with fresh acidityand good depth of berryish,slightly herbal and spicy flavours.Still youthful. $21 (A, UK, US) July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 165

a wine cabinet to suit your lifestyle CT Series Cabinets from Unbeatable value for glass-door wine cabinets 32 to 860 Peltier Cabinets bottles Long-life, no vibration, Peltier cooling WineVac Cabinets Underbench units with integrated wine preservation system Details of our range and pricing are available online KITCHENER www.kitchenerwinecabinets.com WINE CABINETS 03 9459 2999 MORE THAN PREMIUM WINE STORAGEWine your way from ocean to oceanAUSTRALIAN WINE RAIL JOURNEY | 7-10 SEPTEMBER 2011Return to the romance of rail travel for an exclusive experience withWinestate Magazine. Departing from Sydney travel onboard theiconic Indian Pacific to Perth in the classic comfort of Gold Service.Enjoy fine wines, delicious food and unforgettable scenery overthree spectacular days. $2487PER PERSON CONCESSION FARES AVAILABLEInformation and bookings please contact Great Southern Rail GroupsDepartment on 08 8213 4535 or email [email protected] for new buyers for your wines? Waiheke islands most awarded WinesWould you like to gain exposure to new markets? Syrah at its bestJoin the Winestate team at our Asian andEuropean Trade Show Displays in 2012 for a www.passagerock.co.nzfraction of the cost of your own display! 438 Orapiu Road, R.D.1 Waiheke Island 1971, New ZealandContact Peter Jackson +61 8 8357 9277 or Contact Winemaker David Evans on Ph +64 9 950 [email protected] to discuss your participation.Now taking bookings for major wine events inHong Kong, Italy, China and Singapore!166 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 167

contact detailsFor a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.auCABERNET SAUVIGNON Reschke McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE MERLOT & OTHER& BLENDS Ph: (08) 8239 0500 CREEK & FLEURIEU BORDEAUX VARIETALS E-mail: [email protected] Stores Web: www.reschke.com.au Alepat Taylor All Saints Estate/Peter F Brown VineyardsE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 9487 2599 Ph: (02) 6035 2217Web: www.aldi.com.au Robert Oatley Vineyards Pty Ltd E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: customerservice@ Ph: (02) 9433 3223 Web: www.alepat.com.au allsaintswine.com.auAngas Plains Wines E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.allsaintswine.com.auPh: (08) 8537 3159 Web: www.robertoatley.com.au Anvers WinesE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8323 9603 Basket Range WinesWeb: www.angasplainswines.com.au Saracen Estates E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8390 1515 Ph: (08) 9755 6099 Web: www.anvers.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Wines E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.basketrangewine.com.auPh: 0418 847 400 Web: www.saracenestates.com.au Battle of Bosworth WinesE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8556 2441 Celestial Bay Wines Pty LtdWeb: www.b3wines.com.au Serafino Wines E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9450 4191 Ph: (08) 8323 0157 Web: www.battleofbosworth.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Estate E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.celestialbay.com.auPh: (08) 8737 2229 Web: www.serafinowines.com.au Galvanised Wine Group/Woop Woop WinesE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8556 4460 Greedy SheepWeb: www.bowenestate.com.au Shingleback E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9755 7428 Ph: (08) 8323 7388 Web: www.mrriggs.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Of Orange E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.greedysheep.com.auPh: (02) 6365 3229 Web: www.shingleback.com.au Geoff MerrillE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8381 6877 Palmer WinesWeb: www.brangayne.com Stonyridge Vineyard E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9756 7388 Ph: +64 9 372 8822 Web: www.geoffmerrillwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Wines Australia E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.palmerwines.comPh: (08) 8392 2220 Web: www.fallenangelwines.com Haselgrove WinesE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8323 8706 Yalumba & Hill Smith Family VineyardsWeb: www.cwines.com.au Sylvan Springs Estates E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8561 3563 Ph: (08) 8383 0500 Web: www.haselgrove.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Merrill E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.yalumba.comPh: (08) 8381 6877 Web: www.sylvansprings.com.au Karanto Vineyards Pty LtdE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8537 3106 NEW RELEASESWeb: www.geoffmerrillwines.com.au Tatachilla Wines E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8563 7000 Web: www.karanto.com.au All Saints Estate/Peter F Brown VineyardsGreedy Sheep Web: www.tatachillawinery.com.au Ph: (02) 6035 2217Ph: (08) 9755 7428 Pertaringa Wines E-mail: customerservice@E-mail: [email protected] Two Rivers Ph: (08) 8323 8125 allsaintswine.com.auWeb: www.greedysheep.com.au Ph: (02) 6547 2556 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.allsaintswine.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.pertaringa.com.auKimbolton Wines Web: www.tworiverswines.com.auPh: (08) 8537 3359 Pirramimma/Geoff Johnston Wines Pty Ltd Brown Brothers MilawaE-mail: [email protected] CLARE VALLEY Ph: (08) 8323 8205 Ph: (03) 5720 5467Web: www.kimboltonwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Art Wine Pty Ltd Web: www.pirramimma.com.au Web: www.brownbrothers.com.auKings of Kangaroo Ground Ph: 0411 422 450Ph: (03) 9712 0666 E-mail: [email protected] RockBare Eldredge VineyardsE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.artwine.com.au Ph: (08) 8388 7155 Ph: (08) 8842 3086Web: www.kkg.com.au E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Fosters Group (Southcorp) Web: www.rockbare.com.au Web: www.eldredge.com.auKoonara Wines Pty Ltd Ph: (02) 9217 1500Ph: (08) 8737 3222 E-mail: wine.consumer-relations Shingleback Elmswood EstateE-mail: [email protected] @southcorp.com.au Ph: (08) 8323 7388 Ph: (03) 5964 3015Web: www.koonara.com Web: www.australianwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.shingleback.com.au Web: www.elmswoodestate.com.auLake Breeze Wines Glenholme VineyardsPh: (08) 8537 3017 Ph: (08) 8666 5222 Sylvan Springs Estates Galli EstateE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: blesingsgardenwines Ph: (08) 8383 0500 Ph: (03) 9747 1444Web: www.lakebreeze.com.au @westnet.com.au E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.sylvansprings.com.au Web: www.galliestate.com.auLeconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Richard Hamilton Jim Barry WinesPh: (08) 8323 8830 Ph: (08) 8842 2261 Tapestry Wines Geoff MerrillE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8323 9196 Ph: (08) 8381 6877Web: www.leconfieldwines.com Web: www.jimbarry.com E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.tapestrywines.com.au Web: www.geoffmerrillwines.com.auLongview Vineyard Kilikanoon WinesPh: (08) 8388 9694 Ph: (08) 8843 4206 The Islander Estate Vineyard Karanto Vineyards Pty LtdE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +61 0 429 886 711 Ph: (08) 8537 3106Web: www.longviewvineyard.com.au Web: www.kilikanoon.com.au E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.iev.com.au Web: www.karanto.com.auMajella Kirrihill Wines Pty LtdPh: (08) 8736 3055 Ph: (08) 8842 1233 Vok Beverages Manjimup Wine EnterprisesE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8182 1866 Ph: (08) 9772 4255Web: www.majellawines.com.au Web: www.kirrihillwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Wines Paulett Wines Wirra Wirra Vineyards McLaren Vale Premium Wines Pty LtdPh: (08) 8521 3111 (Winery) Ph: (08) 8843 4328 Ph: (08) 8323 8414 Ph: (08) 8323 7940E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.orlandowines.com.au Web: www.pauletts.com.au Web: www.wirra.com.au Web: www.associates.com.auPreston Peak Reillys Wines Patrick of CoonawarraPh: (07) 4630 9499 Ph: (08) 8376 9563 Ph: (08) 8737 3687E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.prestonpeak.com Web: www.reillyswines.com Web: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com168 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

Stuart Wines Co Pty Ltd Renards Folly contact detailsPh: (03) 5432 9499 Ph: (08) 8556 2404E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] AldgateWeb: www.stuartwinesco.com.au Café ReschkeThe Willow Lane Vineyard Ph: (08) 8239 0500 Ph (08) 8339 2530Ph: (02) 6373 3131 E-mail: [email protected] Open 7 daysE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.reschke.com.auWeb: www.thewillowlane.com.au Mon-Wed 4 till late Robert Oatley Vineyards Pty Ltd Thurs-Sun 11.30 tillToolangi Vineyards Ph: (02) 9433 3223Ph: (03) 9827 9977 E-mail: [email protected] lateE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.robertoatley.com.au 6 Strathalbyn RdWeb: www.toolangi.com RockBare AldgateVok Beverages Ph: (08) 8388 7155Ph: (08) 8182 1866 E-mail: [email protected] Food to Die ForE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.rockbare.com.au Take the beautifulWillow Bridge Estate Stone Bridge Wines scenic route up thePh: (08) 9728 0055 Ph: 0428 813 701E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] freeway throughWeb: www.willowbridge.com.au Stirling into Aldgate Stuart Wines Co Pty LtdTASMANIA Ph: (03) 5432 9499 in the Adelaide Hills E-mail: [email protected] Wine RegionClover Hill Web: www.stuartwinesco.com.auPh: 0437 394 637E-mail: [email protected] Sylvan Springs EstatesWeb: www.cloverhillwines.com.au Ph: (08) 8383 0500 E-mail: [email protected] 40 Web: www.sylvansprings.com.au5 Blind Mice Taltarni VineyardsPh: 0419 822 594 Ph: (03) 5459 7915E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.5blindmice.com.au Web: www.taltarni.com.auBurk Salter Wines Vok BeveragesPh: (08) 8540 5023 Ph: (08) 8182 1866E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.burksalterwines.com.au WHISKIES OF THE WORLDClaymore WinesPh: (08) 8843 0200 Moet Hennessy AustraliaE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 8344 9905Web: www.claymorewines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.moet-hennessy.com.auFox GordonPh: (08) 8388 7155 Tasmania DistilleryE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 6248 5399Web: www.foxgordon.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.sullivanscovewhisky.comHaselgrove WinesPh: (08) 8323 8706 UPPER NORTH ISLAND, NZE-mail: [email protected]: www.haselgrove.com.au Passage Rock Wines Ph: +64 9 372 7257Heaslip Wines E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8842 3242 Web: www.passagerockwines.co.nzE-mail: [email protected]: www.heaslipwines.com.au MICHAEL COOPER’S RECENT RELEASESHenry’s Drive Vignerons Pty LtdPh: (08) 8362 9531 Bouldevines WineE-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 3 572 8444Web: www.henrysdrive.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.bouldevineswine.co.nzJohnston WinesPh: (08) 8388 4263 Cloudy Bay VineyardsE-mail: kathy-gertau@ Ph: +64 3 520 9140johnston-oakbank.com.au E-mail: [email protected]: www.johnston-oakbank.com.au Web: www.cloudybay.co.nzKirrihill Wines Pty Ltd Forrest Wines LtdPh: (08) 8842 1233 Ph: +64 3 572 9084E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.kirrihillwines.com.au Web: www.forrest.co.nzPatrick of Coonawarra Mud House WinesPh: (08) 8737 3687 Ph: +64 3 520 6011E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Web: www.mudhouse.co.nzPenna Lane Wines Waipara Hills Wines/The MH Wine GroupPh: (08) 8232 2024 Ph: +64 3 520 6011E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.pennalanewines.com.au Web: www.waiparahills.co.nz July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 169

aftertasteELISABETH KINGMad for malt- more countries join the whisky trailTHE BALANCE sheet of nearly every Whisky Distillery in Schonermark, meet EU regulations and its single maltscompany flogging luxury goods has been an hour’s drive from Berlin. Bohn, are available in the UK. Amrut Single Maltrescued by sales in emerging markets over a master distiller of schnapps, - Cask Strength scored a “truly amazing”the past few years. And Scotch whisky is became interested in making rating from planetwhiskies.com.no exception. The volume of the national whisky five years ago andspirit shipped from Scotland fell two per doesn’t consider her efforts to Gerringong - 10 minutes’ drive fromcent in 2010 to 1.06 billion bottles because be a copycat move. Her labels are Kiama in NSW, is the home of Theof plummeting sales in European countries as Prussian as the origin of the water Australian Distillery. With traditionalsuch as Spain and Greece. she uses – they feature a rearing horse hand-beaten copper stills, the distillery wearing a pickelhaube (the traditional produces premium vodka and Stockman’s But when you dissect the big picture, a German spiked helmet) - and she is very Whisky, which has garnered very positivedifferent story starts to emerge. Tipplers in firm in her belief that her whisky tastes international coverage. This year, though,Mexico, Brazil, South Africa, South Korea distinctively Teutonic. get ready for the release of the company’sand the US helped their home markets to first single malt on a commercial scale.grow, while the Scotch Whisky Association’s Jim Murray, the Robert Parker of whisky,faith in continued ‘premiumisation’ has also even nominated a whisky from the Slyrs The largest producer of single malts inbeen vindicated as single malt sales rose distillery in Bavaria - a Sloupisti malt - as a Australia, though, is Hellyers Road Whisky18 percent last year. standout of the genre in the 2010 edition of distillery at Burnie in Tasmania, which also his Whisky Bible. With a slightly fruitier taste produces top-class vodka. The visitors’ Perhaps that’s why whisky distilleries than its Scottish counterparts, the 12-year- centre is a must-see for any whisky loverare sprouting across Europe, hoping old distillery has such a long waiting list for visiting the Apple Isle.for a piece of the action. Waldviertler, its products that sales are limited to onethe first whisky distillery in Austria, for bottle per person. Scotch whisky hauls in $168 a secondexample, hung out its shingle in 1995. for the British export industry and fledglingThe distillers may use techniques very Germany hopes to catch up to Japan distilleries won’t do much to dent thedifferent from those used in the auld as the world’s second largest malt whisky cash flow. But they do produce what Jimcountry but the Celtic-inspired complex producer, even though only 100,000 Murray calls “superstar whiskies” thatattracts 75,000 visitors a year - more than bottles of German malt were produced give us all a reason to live.Glenfiddich. The Belgian Owl Distillery in in 2010. It’s a tough target. WhiskyGrace Hollogue, near Brussels, released production in Japan dates back to 1870its first malt whisky in 2008 and its owner, and the country’s 10 major distilleriesEtienne Bouillon, is a member of the are owned by big companies such asWhisky Academy at the Bruichladdich Suntory, Kirin and Nikka, a division ofdistillery on Islay. Asahi Breweries. Until recently, most Japanese whiskies were blended but the Both distilleries are the work of isolated former pupil has learnt well. In severalenthusiasts but it came as a shock to many blind tastings conducted by Whiskyto discover that Germany is now one of the Magazine, Japanese malts - notablyfastest-growing whisky producing nations those from Suntory’s Yamazuki, Japan’sin the world with 40 distilleries. Blaue first single malt distillery on Honshu -Maus in Bavaria is one of the veterans of outscored their Scottish rivals.the German scene and celebrated its 25thanniversary in 2008 with a mini Highland India is the world’s largest whisky-games. The distillery has a distinctive drinking nation. Most locally madenautical flavour and so do the names of its bottlings rely on fermented molassesleading malts - Spinnaker and Schwarzes and are more like rum, but things arePirat (Black Pirate). changing fast on the subcontinent. The Amrut distillery near Bangalore recently Next year will see the launch of the first became the first Indian whisky maker tomalt from Cornelia Bohn’s Preussischenext issue: World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge VI! See what came up trumps in this highly competitive tasting. Plus, Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria, River Regions, Hawkes Bay (NZ), semillon & blends and brandy, cognac & armagnac.170 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011

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