S QAILING WITH THE UEENTales of the accidental sommelier on a luxury liner MIKE ZEKULICHCANADIAN KELLEY SCHAEFER This was a time when the fledgling Britannia dining room that takes 1200 at a Canadian wine industry was becoming sitting – shocked to find diners “screaming”regards himself as a walking, talking very active, with fruit orchards being ripped at him for drinks.wine list. Sometimes that includes a bit of out for vine plantings and more qualifiedrocking and rolling. For Kelley is the chief people were badly needed. So Kelley was “Basically, I had a nervous breakdown,”sommelier on board Cunard’s luxury cruise quickly snapped up, soaking up further he says. He was mortified. To rub salt intoship the Queen Mary 2 – in charge of 30 knowledge as a lab technician and then the wounds, he found himself so seasickother sommeliers who look after the wine during vintage in various wineries – as the next day he was unable to leave hisinterests of about 2600 passengers as they cellar hand “dogsbody” doing “anything cabin for two days.cruise the waters of the world. and everything, whatever was needed”. Finally, he mustered up the courage and It is a job any passionate wine consumer “It was great,” Kelley recalls. However, took up the challenge which included 10-would love. Imagine having 250 different he found himself developing a Canadian 12 hours a day on duty and no days off –labels to advise on and know about as cellar palate, which was frustrating given certainly no deckside sunny relaxation bywell as meeting leading wine principals his reading of every wine book he could a swimming pool.who provide tastings for enthusiastic find on the world’s great labels.passengers on port visits while travelling But the offset was what he dreamt of –the globe. Some producers even take short But with a wife and young son to provide for tastings of the world’s great wines – andvoyages to talk about their wines and their on limited funds, how could he possibly afford promotion to head sommelier on anotherregions as well as running master classes. such labels? Obviously, someone else had to cruise liner soon followed. So did wine – as part of a marketing or promotional format. opportunities elsewhere such as on his Kelley Schaefer’s career dreams, however, Then he spotted a newspaper advertisement appointment to a top resort in the Maldivesbegan with a guitar and a bent for jazz. that the Queen Mary 2 (built in 2002-03) was where, on one occasion, he ran a three-But that direction changed forever with an being launched and needed sommeliers. hour tasting for pop star Madonna.opportunity to study winemaking in BritishColumbia’s Okanagan Valley University “I hardly knew what a sommelier was Kelley’s work in completely reworkingCollege in its inaugural nine-month 1995 and had never waited on a table in my the resort’s wine list led to an internationaloenology course, where he rubbed life,” Kelley says. Undaunted, he applied Wine Spectator award. More extensiveshoulders with instructing wine experts – and was hired. publicity followed during a stint in Dubai,from around the world, topping the course where he developed a ‘Mr Wine’ reputationwith another student. On board, there was no time to settle in. and then again back in the Maldives, this He was thrown into the giant liner’s main time focusing on resort staff education. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 51
Many well-educated, successful people who come on board do not know that chardonnay is the basis of Chablis or what is a Meursault.52 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011
Next he found himself going full circle, the Hunter Valley’s Pyramid Hill Semillon, HISTORYreturning to the sea, this time on board d’Arenberg’s McLaren Vale The Hermit IN A GLASSthe Queen Victoria, followed by a transfer Crab Viognier Marsanne, Lindemans Southto the Queen Mary – an overall journey of Australian Reserve Chardonnay and Pirie There has been a bar on board Cunardeight years. South Pinot Gris from Tasmania. vessels since 1840, when the bar opened for wine and spirits at 6am, On board, he manages a master wine The Kiwis are represented by a Cloudy according to one of the ship’s numerouslist ranging from entry wines at $US29 a Bay and Hunter’s sauvignon blancs, along impressive wall illustrations. In thosebottle to $1595 for Petrus, not including with a Waipara Muddy Water Chardonnay. days, passengers were roused early asa 15 per cent service charge. The 1999 staterooms were swept out at 5am.Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes costs $245 The reds total 108, with France again wellfor a 375ml bottle, while a vintage port, in front with 60 wines. Australia has seven: Champagne became the symbol ofthe 1963 Fonseca, is $560. the 19th Meeting Adelaide Hills The Lane Cunard glamour from the bon voyage Cabernet Sauvignon, Lindemans Bin 40 party to the final night’s farewell. In all there are 70 whites available, with 31 Merlot, d’Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz and The For many, the cocktail hour was the highfrom France, nine from the US and six from Copper Mine Road Cabernet, and Margaret point of the day.Australia: Petaluma Chardonnay (Adelaide River’s Moss Wood Cabernet SauvignonHills), Hamlin Hill Riesling (Clare Valley), and Amy’s Blend of cabernet sauvignon, The Bothnia was the first Cunard petit verdot, malbec and merlot. A Hunter’s ship to provide a smoking room where pinot is the only Kiwi representative. men could enjoy a cigar, a brandy, a gossip and a game of cards away Kelley says the six-day trans-Atlantic from the watchful eyes of their wives. voyages see much more intense buying From the 1870s, first-class smoking – especially bubblies – than the leisurely rooms were designed as a cross longer cruises where passengers are often between a country house and a London more budget-conscious. He sees his role club. One of the most opulent was the as urging consumers to be adventurous copy of an old English inn down to the with wines, to try something different – not genuine pewter fireplace. always easy to do. And faulty or corked wines? “We don’t argue, just replace the Other alcoholic landmarks bottle,” he said. noted include: What about the pretenders, such as the 1840 - James Pinn creates the gin business heavyweights who on shore with a zing. entertain or are entertained regularly, 1860 - Campari created. drinking top wines, and believe they know 1874 - A New York Manhattan club it all – such as one who orders a big, barman creates the Manhattan for powerful, tannic Opus One to have with Winston Churchill’s mother. a piece of light fish. “We may suggest 1915 - A Raffles Hotel barman creates but don’t argue,” Kelley says. “Many well- the Singapore sling, tinted pink to educated, successful people who come on appeal to women. board do not know that chardonnay is the 1921 - Harry’s bar in Paris invents the basis of Chablis or what is a Meursault.” Bloody Mary, originally called Buckets of Blood. The best sommeliers service the ship’s 1925 - through his novel The Great upmarket Queens and Princess grills, Gatsby, F. Scott Fitzgerald makes the where the demand obviously involves more mint julep fashionable. expensive labels – so that price is not as 1933 - US president Roosevelt celebrates much a factor – such as the three Russians the end of Prohibition with a martini. who paid $US1300 for a 1997 Louis 1960 - The daiquiri becomes Roederer Cristal in a three-litre bottle to drink fashionable when President Kennedy half and brusquely order staff with a wave of declares it his favourite cocktail. the hand to take it away, take it away. 2000 - Cocktails undergo a revival in the 1990s, thanks in part to the happy hour. On screw caps, Kelley says: ‘Guest resistance has declined. Some now prefer them. Five years ago, they would complain it was taking the romance out of removing a cork. Once, he says, a screw cap meant a cheaper wine. Not any more. “Corked wines remain a problem. But I am glad we have both options.” July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 53
Above: Painting of the late Jim Barry. Opposite: Leo Buring Rhine Rieslings and Jim Barry’s St Clare 1977 Rhine Riesling.
Water Wizardry CLARE VALLEY WINERY HARNESSES CUTTING-EDGE GREEN TECHNOLOGYNIGEL HOPKINS market, both in Australia and overseas, at Visitors will enjoy the end of 2010. Although about 20 pilot learning about oneGLENDALOUGH ESTATE plants have been established in a number of our future’s of countries, from Thailand to Abu Dhabi, greatest globalin Clare’s Armagh Valley is laying claims Peru and Bangladesh, there was clearly challenges and howto becoming South Australia’s most a need for a major demonstration site in local Australianenvironmentally sustainable winery. So Australia. Glendalough Estate provided the inventors aremuch so that it’s hard to tell what comes first right opportunity, with a substantial source pioneering a new- the wine, or the wizardry that will provide of low-grade bore water in an accessible and very attractiveit with a low-cost, sustainable source of location just a few minutes’ drive from Clare. way of addressinghigh-quality water using solar technology. these problems. However, Robert, despite not having Former SANFL and AFL footballer any experience in the wine industryRobert Pyman and his partners bought but with an appetite for development,Glendalough in 2008, initially seeing it as having established the award-winninga showcase for the Carocell solar-powered Adelaide restaurant Panacea, saw broaderdesalination unit developed by the Victorian- opportunities for the 20ha property,based company F CUBED. The company including its 5ha vineyard.was established in 2004 to develop solarthermal desalination, zero liquid discharge Glendalough was built in 1878 and is(ZLD) and solar water treatment systems typical of many of the large homesteadsthat met the overwhelming need for constructed around Clare in the 1880s.economic production of clean drinking It has been producing fruit since 1896,water from saline or polluted sources. Its when the original owner, John Hague,founder, Peter Johnstone, is also a partner planted orchards of apples, plums, figs,in the Glendalough venture, while Robert peaches, pears and two huge mulberryPyman continues as F CUBED’s head of trees, all of which remain today and still bearinternational markets. fruit. Little wonder that the region was once considered the fruit bowl of South Australia. The Carocell desalination panels,which took five years of research anddevelopment, were introduced to the July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 55
In 1996 the then owners, Robin Hill Robert saw that by pulling all the elements at providing drinking and irrigation water atand Don Hiller, travelled to Umbria and together - wine, olives, fruit, potential very low cost to the billion or more peopleTuscany and decided their patch of the accommodation in the homestead, plus globally who don’t have reliable supplies.Armagh Valley was just as suitable for the novelty of Australia’s first public accessproducing high-grade olive oil, so they solar water farm - there was potential to “Visitors won’t only be seeing a wineryplanted around 1000 olive trees. become “not just another vineyard, but in action, sampling a great glass of wine, the Clare Valley’s most memorable cellar tasting various varieties of table olives Shiraz, riesling and cabernet sauvignon door experience”. and studying the olive oil productionvines, planted on terra rossa, loam and process, but will also enjoy learningsandstone soils, date mostly from 2001. The South Australian Tourism Commission about one of our future’s greatest globalAlthough a young vineyard, it rapidly kicked in with a substantial grant towards challenges and how local Australianstarted producing highly rated wines, the estimated $2 million development inventors are pioneering a new andwith the 2007 Glendalough Shiraz given cost, which includes a renovated cellar very attractive way of addressing thesea five-star rating by Winestate and both door and a new gourmet pizza cafe, which problems,” Robert says.the 2009 and 2010 rieslings receiving opened in mid-May.good reviews. Annual grape production If it all works as F CUBED is confidentis around 20 tonnes, with the red wines But central to it all will be the solar water it will, the desalination process couldcurrently made by Killikanoon’s Kevin farm that not only will provide high-quality well be the holy grail that developingMitchell and the whites by Neil Paullett. water for irrigation but will act as a major countries and remote communities have demonstration site for a technology aimed been seeking, especially because it56 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011
does not involve releasing concentrated roof-mounted. The modular design enables temperature of the feed water on the solarbrine solution back into the environment multiple panels to be connected together to collector, which enhances the evaporation/- as is the case with all current, major produce larger quantities of distilled water condensation processes inside the panel.desalination plants. Robert says the only from a single source. Under reasonable conditions of sunlight theresidues in their Zero Liquid Discharge water temperature rises sufficiently to kill allprocess are valuable dry sodium chloride Single panels are ideal for family use, a pathogenic bacteria in the water, and all the- table salt - and dry magnesium chloride. series of panels will provide for a village salts, inorganic and organic componentsThe table salt component will be marketed or small town, or the panels can be set and microbes are left behind.by Glendalough as another side product up as a large-scale water farm such asof the business. that proposed for Ceduna, where there So when a new bottled drinking water are plans to install a $10 million system called D’stil hits Australian supermarket Each 3m2 Carocell panel is capable producing up to 200 million litres of fresh shelves, consumers (if they read the smallof producing 15-20 litres a day of pure water a year from sea water. Robert adds print) will find it’s come from Glendaloughdrinking water from sources that range from that a proposal has been put to the State Estate and they’ll be confident of its purity.bore water to treated sewage or even salt Government for assistance with the project. But what will it taste like?water, and Robert says 150 of them will beassembled at Glendalough Estate. Each Independent engineering tests have “Just like rain water,” Robert Pyman says.panel costs $362, they are expected to last confirmed that the process is more efficient “After all, that’s basically what it is.”for 20 years and they can be ground- or than other solar distillation methods because it dramatically increases the CLARE VALLEY TASTING STARTS PAGE 128. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 57
from a stumble to giant stridesTHE RISE AND RISE OF A GRASSROOTS WINEMAKER
GREG REIDMATT RECHNER has no pretensions I don’t want to That sounds simple, but Matt makes it clear that without top-quality growers - andof greatness. His simple philosophy is to work with the big growers who care about what they aremake wines the average wine punter will doing - there is little need to be in business.want to drink. That’s not a bad philosophy retail companies. So where do the names Ekhidna and Paperfor a bloke who admits he “stumbled” into Eagle originate? Matt explains: “Ekhidna wasthe wine industry in 1988 when collecting Instead I want to named after an old vineyard east of McLarenlaboratory samples at the old Tatachilla Flat which is surrounded by natural scrub andwinery in McLaren Vale. talk to people, build gum trees, and echidnas habitat the area. With no formal training, this McLaren Vale- a rapport and get “The name Paper Eagle was coined after webred winemaker has used his natural talents saw a couple of wedge-tailed eagles with ato develop a company that today annually to know them and chick habitat the area around the winery. Theycrushes around 500 tonnes of fruit for his were doing a great job in scaring off the localown two brands and for a number of small their tastes. birds preying on the vineyards - and we thengrapegrowers in the McLaren Vale region. looked at a label design developed from theOperating from a revamped restaurant says that each year he aims to process origami look, which for 7000 years in Japanmidway between McLaren Vale and McLaren around 500 tonnes of fruit from selected was used as an official seal on documents.”Flat, Matt sits proudly behind both the Ekhidna vineyards in the McLaren Vale region -and Paper Eagle labels and is slowly but surely but with 2011 being a “difficult” year, the Matt’s philosophy on winemaking and theforging a mini-empire with his brands. tonnage was down to around 200. wine industry is simple: “I don’t want to work with the big retail companies. Instead I want to Looking back, he recalls his introduction In addition to his own labels, Matt talk to people, build a rapport and get to knowto the wine industry, saying: “Because produces wines for a number of small them and their tastes at our cellar door facility.I have a great head for numbers I could wineries in the region, aided by his own I talk with them about my wines and then theyremember each tank, the blend numbers bottling facilities at the winery. can take some wines with them or order online,and whether the wine was red or white in and they can have their wine anywhere in120 tanks at Tatachilla. From that humble Matt’s big love is large, smooth and fruit- Australia within three to four days.”beginning I took over the laboratory work filled red wines, all produced through aand then progressed into the cellars, and process he calls “cold soaking”, which he To find out about the full range ofwhen it was all lights and action at vintage explains as: “When the fruit comes through Ekhidna and Paper Eagles wines, emailtime I turned my hand as a cellar worker to the crusher it’s placed into open fermenters [email protected] all I could about winemaking.” and as soon as the fermenter is filled, 15- 25 per cent of the juice is run off to make McLAREN VALE, LANGHORNE CREEK He obviously struck a chord with Ekhidna and Paper Eagle rosé. Once this & FLEURIEU TASTING STARTS PAGE 136.management, as he was offered the juice is off, cooling plates are added intoopportunity to go to the US and work in the fermenters and the fruit is covered withthe Sonoma Valley as a cellar hand/trainee sulphur spray and acid adjusted, with thewinemaker at Geyser Peak in 1996-97, and cooling plates inhibiting fermentation.then travelled around the world for three years. “Instead of a traditional ferment taking After returning to Australia as operations around four days, the fermenting juice ismanager at Tatachilla in 1998-99, he finally held at around eight degrees Celsius fordecided in 2003 to go it alone and do his own seven to nine days - the fermenting hand-thing. As a result, he established McLaren brake is hard on. This allows the leachingWines (the forerunner of today’s operations), of the colours, flavours and tannins into themaking wines from a small shed opposite the juice, producing a wonderful mix of texture,Salopian Inn outside McLaren Vale on one of huge colour depth and intense fruit flavours.the finest vineyards in the region. All that is then needed is the alcohol. At that stage the yeast is added, and fermentation He initially sold his wines to a “cult” takes its course in open fermenters.”following he had collected by word of mouthand through his network of grapegrowers inthe region. The old shed proved inadequateand in 2007 Matt leased an old 1000-tonnewinery at Wattle Flat, between Mypongaand Yankalilla as his production base. He July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 59
the proseccoPECKING ORDERComplex labelling is the clue to finding the superior Italian sparklingGIORGIO FRAGIACOMOITALIANS LOVE THEIR increase quality levels and the marketing prosecco in a can, using a gold-paint-clad‘ A P E R I T I VO ’ . This pre-dinner drink or behind the dramatic increase in popularity Paris Hilton as a testimonial, was more has led to the risk of cheap imitations and than the Valdobbiadene and Conegliano‘opener’ is usually taken with a smorgasbord consumer confusion. Producers in the Consorzio could stomach.of food in a bar that specialises in coffee historical production area and the Italianand brioche in the morning and aperitivi in government have banded together to The consorzio appealed at European levelthe evening. And what is the favourite tipple take unprecedented steps to protect the to stop the rot. This was cleverly done, firston this occasion? You could well argue prosecco name from being devalued. by formally changing the grape variety’sthat it is a glass of the ‘in’ drink, a cocktail name to its synonym, glera. Second, theyof prosecco wine mixed with Aperol, Until August 2009, the term Prosecco used the fact that the larger IGT Proseccoa vermouth-like drink. applied to a white grape variety that was production zone contains a small village on grown mainly in the province of Treviso, the outskirts of Trieste, conveniently called Given the gloom that the global financial a charming canal town a short trip from Prosecco, where to all intents and purposescrisis has spawned, to drink anything as posh Venice. The steep hills hugging the Alps the grape originated and has always beenas champagne would not be considered au to the north, between the small towns of called glera. European legislation protectsfait! However, prosecco has evolved from Conegliano in the east and Valdobbiadene and effectively copyrights place namesbeing a synonym for ‘inexpensive white in the west, plus a small enclave around such as Champagne, Chablis or Chianti; notsparkling wine’, as it was once stereotyped, the walled town of Asolo, have been the grape variety names. Having a wine namedand has successfully morphed into one of traditional quality heartland. after a geographical location limits its legalthe most refreshing yet sophisticated drinks use to those producers from that area.around; a delightful, uncomplicated wine, The appellation for the past 40 yearsrarely bone-dry, with refreshing acidity and was known as Prosecco di Conegliano Then in August 2009 the Italian governmenta lovely pear drop nose. e Valdobbiadene DOC. A much larger promoted the original 15 communes of the area extending over 200km from Vicenza Valdobbiadene-Conegliano heartland Yet the finest examples go way beyond to Trieste on the border with Slovenia plus Asolo to DOCG status (the tip of thethe simple aperitif and would be totally was allowed to produce generic IGT quality pyramid). These now call their winewasted in a cocktail. These ‘superior’ prosecco (a lower rung in the European Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Proseccoversions are made to marry fine foods, quality wine pyramid). Unfortunately the Superiore DOCG, or Asolo Prosecco DOCG.especially those from the sea. Demand bevy of cheap, inferior quality, ‘me too’for prosecco in Italy and abroad has wines using the prosecco name riskedgrown hugely. In fact, completely counter flooding the market and diluting the imageto market trends, Italian sparkling wine in of stylishness that was building up aroundgeneral and prosecco in particular are the DOC Prosecco. Maybe as a resultone of the few bright spots in an otherwise of the infamous 2008 campaign for ableak landscape! But all the hard work to60 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011
Hills are exactly what make the difference between the DOCG wines and the DOCs made in generally flat country closer to the sea.62 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011
Those nine provinces of the third-tier IGT levels which the consorzio’s research on eight to 15 grams, the much-loved extrastatus now adhere to the stricter Prosecco site shows is required to produce balanced dry (off dry actually!) between 12 andDOC classification. All others, in Italy and fruity wines with the right pH levels. 20 grams, and the dry 17 to 35 grams ofand abroad, will have to use the varietal The hills back on to the Alps and the sea residual sugar. Some of the best housesglera name. is not far away, guaranteeing a fairly mild propose single-vineyard offerings showing climate year round with a nice 1000-plus- the quite perceptible differences siting And a good thing too! True ‘superior’ milimetre annual rainfall - making it perfect makes. It is these hill wines, especiallyprosecco from the hills of Asolo or those for sparkling wine production. the single-vineyards, that have the body,of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano is depth and concentration that make them aworth protecting. These are not wines to Prosecco - the wine - is usually sparkling perfect foil to the quirky cuisine of Venicemix your Bellini cocktails with. The area even if there are a handful of completely still and its region with sweet and sour sardines,where they are made has some of the versions. Some 90 per cent of the DOCG mussels and fried soft-shelled crabs allmost dramatically steep vineyards in Italy. is ‘spumante’, with a small production of perfectly matchable to the top of the range.The mix of glacial soils near Conegliano ‘frizzante’, mainly drunk locally. The methodor the marnes, sandstones and clays of of production ensures that the base wine So what’s in a name change? The labelsValdobbiadene and Asolo give a wide goes through its second fermentation in a these days might not be so easy to read,variety of terroirs, guaranteeing plenty of closed tank (not in the bottle), using the but if you want to really appreciate thisflavour and nuance. Martinotti (aka Charmat) method. This wine, make sure you try the Asolo DOCG guarantees that the delicate fresh pear or Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco In fact, hills are exactly what make the and floral aromas are not compromised by Superiore DOCG - quite the mouthfuldifference between the DOCG wines toasty yeast notes. but then again this is a mouthfilling,and the DOCs made in generally flat mouth-watering wine. If you want thecountry closer to the sea. The day/night The wines traditionally have some residual lighter, simpler, refreshing version, try thetemperature range ensures the crisp sugar, giving them a soft and round Prosecco DOC and enjoy!acidity, as does the legislation’s yield mouthfeel. The brut’s usually have around July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 63
melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINThe opening of Atlantic in March was a like the ocean itself. Ground level, Crownwelcome back to Melbourne for UK native Casino, Southbank; phone (03) 9698 8888.Donovan Cooke, who became well-known Franco Choo is the antithesis of Atlantic.in the late ’90s in Melbourne with then wife A 20-seat restaurant in inner-south-easternPhilippa Sibley after the enormous success Prahran, the restaurant has been set up byof restaurant Est Est Est. It was considered Steven Choo, who became a chef aftera groundbreaking restaurant, serving classic deciding that his desire to cook was moreFrench food with modern touches in a simple, important than being a landscape architect;unadorned room in South Melbourne. It was he set himself on a new path. Francoall about the food and won many accolades. Choo’s is the result that has seen a formerThe couple went on to open Ondine in the takeaway sandwich shop transformed intoMelbourne CBD and after that, when the a quirky, stylish room with lots of blondemarriage ended, Donovan went to Hong wood and exposed brick. Steven has a Grill, also in the city, is a part-owner with Glen Bagnara, Roy Zandona and George Sykiotis, who have previously owned busy city restaurants. They’ve taken this existing restaurant and opened up the space, giving it a more open feel by creating a welcoming room with lots of white and playful touches of yellow surrounded by a large verandah for outdoor dining when weather permits. This is a flexible menu, with pizzas and appetisers available all day from middayKong to become executive chef at the tiny kitchen here and this has influenced - think porcini and taleggio croquettes orexclusive Happy Valley Jockey Club. the choice to have a short, sharp menu of slow-cooked lamb ribs with sauce gribiche. The lure of part-ownership in the Atlantic two entrees, two mains and two desserts. Entrees, mains and desserts feature lotsrestaurant and no-expense-spared fit-out The dishes are primarily Mediterranean in of French and Spanish influence and arefor the enormous project was an offer too influence but Steven’s Chinese background available at specified times. What feelsgood to refuse. A 300-seat restaurant in is featured too. The menu changes weekly great about Chester White is the sharpthe thick of the Crown Casino complex, and may include prawn dumplings with service and smart wine list, and there’sAtlantic is aiming to lift the choices of ginger oil and spring onions, next to pork every reason why this restaurant could wellseafood restaurants in Melbourne, of which and fennel meatballs with tomato sugo and become a community hub for the inner-eastthere aren’t as many as you may think. The wet polenta. It works, surprisingly, as many of Melbourne. 302 Burwood Rd, Hawthorn;menu is large and constantly shifting due places trying to achieve these flavours phone (03) 9819 2200.to the unpredictable nature of seafood don’t always get it right. It seems to beavailability. There are usually six different Steven’s quiet determination to do things Left: Maze interior. Right: Entre Tapas e Vinos.types of oysters from around Australia, his way that translate well, as does theentrees may include tempura soft shell crab succinct wine list that is built around Italianor classic oysters veloute, and the fish can varieties grown in Victoria, from sangratinobe served whole - wood-fired, roasted or to pinot grigio to vermentino. 179a High St,steamed with sauce beurre blanc or lemon Prahran; phone (03) 9529 7310.and olive oil - while fish off-the-bone is also Where the restaurant Canvas in the inner-on the menu with, perhaps, steamed local eastern suburb of Hawthorn once stood issnapper or confit of New Zealand snapper. now Chester White. While it’s named afterThe room is smart in its design. A huge all things pig there is certainly more thanroom may overwhelm but clever use of the just pork on the menu but still, a homagespace makes it feel intimate and the colours to this animal certainly doesn’t hurt. Chefand textures are a clever mix of bold and Simon Arkless, who was most recentlymoody, welcoming and striking - a lot at Comme in the CBD and Match Bar &64 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011
sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KINGJustin North’s Becasse bakery and cheeses, olive oils and butters, also help to historic Victoria St. But following a flood ofCharlie & Co Burgers franchises are a take the worry out of eating a professional- glowing reports, I took a taxi and regrettedmajor part of the mix at Opera Kitchen, standard meal at home. that I hadn’t made the decision sooner.the upmarket fast food strip on the Sydney Dan Hong, formerly of Lotus, Tetsuya’s,Opera House concourse. But the star chef An outpost of the Becasse bakery, which Marque and Longrain, and Jowett Huwho has picked up a laundry list of major also holds pride of place at the Opera are the men in the kitchen at this latestgongs and honours from Chef of the Year Kitchen, allows grazing foodies - 10 at a Merivale venture and the only dubiousto Best European Restaurant in Australia time - to sit a while as they savour freshly thing about the whole enterprise is theis the only leading light at Quarter Twenty baked breads, sandwiches, mini-tartlets name – it sounds like M.S.G.One, the new food precinct on Level 5 of and the bakery’s trademark salted caramel.Westfield’s plush CBD shopping complex. You can choose, pay and run, though. First head for the upstairs bar for a cocktail, beer or one of the five sakes on offer. Then The ambitious project was inspired by The icing on the cake? Quarter Twenty One slip downstairs to pick through Asian-the food scene in Paris, hence the moniker also has its own cookery school, presided style tapas offerings such as mini banhQuarter, while the tagline - Feed The Soul over by leading food writer and presenter mi - tiny bread rolls filled with pork belly,- refers to the theory that the body loses Libby Travers. Up close and personal is the mayonnaise and shredded vegetables.21 grams in weight when the soul makes motto of the cosy workspace for 18, furnished My favourite listings are the noodle bowlsits exit after death. And Justin and his with a chef’s demonstration table and six such as pork belly ‘Hue style’, which teamswife Georgia have certainly put a lot of cooking stations for students. The spring/ tender pork shreds with konyaku glassthemselves into making this adventurous summer programs, featuring a roll call of noodles. The desserts are not to be missedundertaking work. international and nationally renowned chefs, but if you don’t want to feel like a plump begins on September 1 and runs through Buddha figure, go for something light such For starters, the venue is anchored by to February if you’ve ever fantasised about as the chiffon cake with coconut ice anda 70 cover ‘modern European’ restaurant cooking beside a professional chef or dreamt strawberries. 155 Victoria St, Potts Point;helmed by Michael Robinson, the former about making cutting-edge patisseries. Level phone (02) 9240 3000.head chef of Justin’s multi-hatted Becasse 5, Westfield Sydney, cnr Pitt St Mall andrestaurant on Kent St. It’s a more casual Market St; www.becasse.com.au. Left: The Quarter Twenty One gourmet shop.reincarnation that also hangs its hat on Right: Becasse restaurant interior. Eight years ago, South African expatsa menu that makes the most of fresh Costa Tamazos and Bradley Michaelseasonal produce. Laid-back elegance chose Sydney as the first internationalhasn’t been jettisoned, though; the slick location of The Meat and Wine Co,decor is studded with aqua-coloured a virtual shrine to steaks the size ofvelvet chairs, copper lamps and an doorsteps. The restaurant chain now has 13antique-style pressed metal ceiling. eateries worldwide and its 280-seat Darling Harbour premises recently reopened after The Quarter Twenty One Shop for the Soul a multimillion-dollar makeover. Yet evenis an adventurous culinary concept where after months of the closed sign hangingconsumers can buy pre-prepared meals (raw over the door, Sydney’s meat loversor cooked) so they can mimic Justin’s skills at flooded back to enjoy the sort of servingshome. An edited selection of red and white you don’t find in too many restaurants thesewines to accompany their meal choices and days - and certainly not the trendy variety.quality ‘pantry’ products, including artisanal The owners’ African origins are reflected in ornate wooden carvings and work well with the flame-grilled skewers, Monte Angus steaks and Australian game dishes in season. Located in the IMAX Theatre Complex, The Meat & Wine Co spans three levels to showcase city skyline and water views with every turn of your head. The red wine list is extensive and rightly so, especially for a real feed on a cool winter's night. 31 Wheat Rd, Darling Harbour; phone (02) 9211 9888. It took me a while to get to Mrs G’s, largely because it’s nigh on impossible to find a parking spot in Potts Point’s July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 65
adelaidegrapevine GRAEME ANDREWSKirkbee group CEO Jason Duffield has For yonks, when driving past Cannelle, menus, to genuine Japanese or Cantonesespent almost 20 years nurturing Hahndorf’s sited diagonally across from the Oriental delights, true Thai, Vietnamese and Indianfascinating historical links with early South Hotel on Magill Rd, I remember thinking, classics. Strangely, Korean cuisine hasn’tAustralian history. The framework of his plan ‘Interesting shop, appears to make ridden this crest. Chef Mi Hwa Jun hasis refreshingly innovative. Refusing to take an croissants. I must check it out one day.’ created 4 TABLE Bar Roaster BBQeasy path filled with nauseous tourism tat, he Fifteen years flashed by before I managed restaurant to showcase potential synergyfocused instead on visitors seeking a more to pull off this complex feat. And have I between Korean cuisine and Australiansophisticated and rewarding experience. been missing out big-time. palates. Mi declares, “I decided to open my restaurant in Australia because the quality Aware that quality local accommodation Saladine Benhamoche, whose former CV of ingredients are consistently so good.”was both limited and rare, the 3½-star included such diverse accomplishmentsHahndorf Motel Inn, with 19 motel style as airline pilot, established a Viennoiserie Yes, 4 TABLE serves sashimi, sushirooms, stepped up to fill this gap. Now (the correct Francophile name for tragics (or kimbab for those who wish to beluxury-swathed, the 50-roomed four-star of such delights) to provide a much- culturally correct) and kimchi, alongManna of Hahndorf has taken prime needed cash injection for his newly with stir-fries, hot or cold noodles andaccommodation position. A few steps migrated family. Authentic Viennoiserie, soups. Fiery soju, ginseng wine andacross the road, The Haus, a vast cafe- with their daily, house-baked croissants, smooth Cass beer stand at the ready tobar-kitchen, has morphed as the logical glazed fruit Danish delights and creme wash down a kaleidoscope of flavours.next major step. Breakfast location for motel patisserie-filled wonders have always This restaurant’s X factors are four charcoal-guests is the first obvious role. But The Haus been like hen’s teeth, rarely discovered in fired grills. Premium beef ribs, chickenprovides more, opening its restaurant to the Adelaide. Savouring such delights along and other meats, plus prawns, octopuspublic from 7.30am to 9.30pm every day. with really good coffee graciously served and other seafood, are pre-marinated with a genuine warm smile from Saladine, in traditional sauces, subtly enhanced Apart from long opening hours, The Haus (who seems to be a permanent fixture with Mi’s contemporary flavour concepts.offers multi-function flexibility tethered to at Cannelle), is almost a life-changing Once your order’s placed, the grill issharp and extensive menus, courtesy of experience. It’s hardly surprising that opened, filled with burning charcoal andthe vast culinary experience of executive grabbing a window seat, particularly your meal (complete with complementarychef Matt Treloar. on a weekend, is always a challenge. delicious salads and condiments) arrives But despite its being ambrosial and at the table. The experience starts to A cascade of delights from trenchermen totally addictive, I must sadly report look like a good old Aussie barbecue.breakfasts to premium aged steaks, gourmet this glorious fare fails badly in the low- Smiling waitresses demystify the cookingpizzas, plus traditional German pork treats calorie department. Open 6am to noon, process, guiding diners towards what’sare there to be explored. The wine list merits seven days. 123a Magill Rd, Stepney; about to unfold and finally get youa special mention - it’s 80 bottles strong phone (08) 8363 4200. started on one of the most delightful andand carefully compiled by a Master of Wine nutritious meals you will ever experience.to showcase the strength and diversity of Poor capital investment returns for South Open noon to 9.30pm Monday to Friday,surrounding Adelaide Hills terroir. Australian restaurants have hampered 5.30 to 9.30pm Saturdays (and public the industry for years. We constantly hear holidays). 402 Magill Rd, Kensington Park; The Kirkbee organisation mantra, stories about potential operators getting phone (08) 8333 0470.Connect-Nourish-Escape-Celebrate, back only a quarter of their outlay. It’ssays it all. We have the easy job - just a tough and competitive industry and I Left: The Haus interior dining.enjoy. 38 Main Rd, Hahndorf; phone wouldn’t be an investor for quids. Right: 4 Table Bar Roaster dining.(08) 8388 7555; wwwhaushahndorf.com.au. But maybe some of this entrenched negativity is starting to dissipate. Three places, Estia, Aquacaf and Star of Greece, have become available with price tags over $1 million. One sold in a snap, while the others are expected to follow shortly. Common links? All occupy prime waterside locations. Let’s hope global warming doesn’t raise ocean levels too quickly! For over 20 years, Australians have fallen passionately in love with Asian food. We have made the great leap from ‘cornflour in everything’ on 120-item July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 67
brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELThere was a time in Brisbane when Valley. Various locations. Phone (07) 3852 actually the ‘sugo’ on the rosso versionyou couldn’t get a decent coffee or a 3896 or visit www.brotherespresso.com.au. that’s the special weapon. Bianco pizzasproper pizza. Our small European emigre Blue Sky Coffee is another relatively new include field mushrooms with truffled egg,population may have delayed what is now venture, also in Fortitude Valley. Situated pork and fennel sausage with rocket anda flourishing culture, at least where coffee in a charming, renovated warehouse in caramelised onion and roasted pumpkinis concerned. Merlo is a name synonymous Commercial Rd, the showroom is open for and goat’s cheese. Sugo appears on allwith great Queensland coffee and Dean coffee daily and you can buy your home the rosso versions: the Termolese hasMerlo is the man behind the big blue label. supplies of two blends as well as ‘green smoked sugo and leg ham, bocconcini,For more than a decade, we have relied on caffeine’ and Swiss water-filtered decaf. anchovies and olives, while pancettathis great brand which started with Gino and gorgonzola dress the porca vacca,Merlo, an Italian immigrant from Torino Cafes that don’t roast their own beans and the litmus test of all pizzas - thewho arrived with the state’s first espresso have also proliferated in Brisbane, with Margherita - is a cracker. 190 Oxford St,machine in his luggage. casual sippers and morning paper readers Bulimba; phone (07) 3395 6327. benefiting from the various developing Son Dean is the face behind the grinder centres. Paddington in the city’s inner west Piccolo Pizza is chef/owner Peterthese days and the company now boasts has a plethora of great cafes - Latrobe Terrace Stubbs’ southside nod to Napoli rightfive torresfaziones, all of which sell coffee is dotted with choice, from the Java Lounge next door to his popular bistro, Cinco.and beans and nine retail outlets under wedged between the Antique Centre and the His crusts are thin and toppings classicthe ‘Bar Merlo’ banner which are modern impossible-to-resist Monty’s Chocolates, and include thin shards of potato,interpretations of classic Italian espresso Urban Grind is just down the road and the gooey taleggio and perky sprigs ofbars. Simple, full-flavoured food is served eclectic Sassafras is just a few more metres rosemary. 589 Old Cleveland Rd, Campand some of the larger bars have pizza away across the road. Espressohead sits in Hill; phone (07) 3843 5555. Beccofinoovens serving rustic, chewy crusts topped the middle of Boundary St, where it’s standing is Newstead’s pizza bolthole, offeringwith a less-is-more philosophy, again room-only most mornings, Black Star is in blond and tomato-based classics butclassic and always of the best quality. neighbouring Hargrave St and the award- there’s also a full menu of pasta dishes winning Cup Coffee roasts and serves coffee as well as favourites like crisp calamari Merlo prepares blends exclusively for lots that is roasted on-site. with rocket and vitello tonnata. There’sof restaurants and cafes around the city also the option of sweet pizzas – small,and you can also learn the art of the Barista And while baristas caffeinate the city and crisp bases bathed in velvety chocolateat the Merlo Commercial coffee school or surrounds with a gusto akin to a gold rush, sauce or topped with fresh berries andyou can bring in your own machine and the the rise and rise of pizza crust has had a mascarpone - that’s Amore! 10 Vernon St,pros will make sure you get the best brew slower and slightly more fraught passage. Teneriffe; phone (07) 3666 0207. Gustoout of it. Various locations. Phone 1 800 We went from puffy blobs of dough topped da Gianni at Portside Wharf at Hamiltonmerlos or visit www.merlo.com.au. with barbecue sauce and bad smallgoods takes care of the northside, making to some disturbing ‘gourmet’ versions that use of artichokes, porcini mushrooms Brother Espresso is another family take in a trip to Asia, the Middle East and and olives. Owner Gianni Greghini’senterprise born after members of the Gowty Hawaii for under $20. favourite sports tomato, mozzarella andfamily visited Melbourne and saw how the lashings of San Danielle prosciutto,coffee culture had taken Victorians by storm. Finally there is thin, authentic, chewy, but the fennel sausage, broccoli and charry crusts now to be found on all caramelised Spanish onion is also a firm Four outlets later, the Margaret St store sides of the river. Sugo Mi on Oxford St favourite. Portside Wharf, Hercules St,does a roaring trade for breakfast and lunch, at Bulimba creates great crusts but it’s Hamilton; phone (07) 3868 2011. The bestwhile the roasting takes place in Fortitude pizza alla funghi goes to Capri Cafe and Bar in Emporium complex in the heart of Fortitude Valley, and best value for money has to be at La Via in the heart of the South Bank precinct, where tradition meets a little modernity but always with great quality ingredients for just $12 a pizza. Capri, 100 Ann St, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3257 0401. La Via, 6E Little Stanley St, South Brisbane; phone (07) 3844 3460. Left: Sugo Mi interior dining. Right: Sugo Mi’s pizza rosso with prosciutto & rocket.68 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011
perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNBarolo on Beaufort is a snappy name accompanying nostalgic fondue burner and the food quality and service doesn’tfor a restaurant; the alliteration rolls off of the ’70s, perhaps a good thing after a drop off as the attendance numbersthe tongue. You’d presume it serves 35-degree day. A noci pizza ($20) has a increase. That’s a good sign. 173 MountsItalian cuisine and it does, a generic thin, crusty base with speck, mozzarella, Bay Rd, Crawley; phone (08) 9321 2588.style, but don’t expect to see a Barolo cream, radicchio and walnuts. Theseon the wine list - well, not on the normal are bold, savoury flavours that work in a Senior West Coast Eagle footballerwine list, at least. It’s not surprising really, strange way; the bitter radicchio leaves Andrew Embley is looking at life after AFLas classic Barolo wine from Piedmont in and saltiness of the pork are balanced football. The mad-keen cook has openednorth-western Italy is expensive and this by the sweet and crunchy texture of a restaurant/bar with a couple of partners,is a middle-of-the-road Italian eatery and walnuts and silkiness of the cream and Mark Leake and fellow Eagle Dean Cox.introductory Italian wines and Australian cheese. Carpaccio of fillet beef ($17) is The restaurant is in the spanking-newvarietals by the glass or bottle (average next and is dressed with quality olive swish Claremont Quarter and flies the$55 a bottle) are the go here. Announcing oil and shaved parmesan, but a far-too- Beluga banner. “The place and the foodmy disappointment at the absence of heavy hand of sea salt takes charge of are pretty much Mod Oz” says Andrew, asBarolo, the table waiter hands me a small the dish - a shame as the ingredients we chat before the opening. “We have areserve wine list and blow me down, it has are excellent. The salting should be left simple menu with an emphasis on pasta,about half a dozen of them taking pride of to the discretion of the diner at the table. slow-cooked meat dishes and that sortplace, however well above the average Finally, an eggplant parmigiano ($16) is a of thing, and I hope to be spending quiteprice of the original list. loser, again over-salted, a stodgy sumo- a bit of time in the kitchen and Dean will heavyweight dish that needs a lighter and be in the bar, although that’s a bit of a Situated at the quieter end of Highgate, gentler approach in the kitchen for it to worry,” he chuckles. Andrew is no noviceB on B is now 12 months old and has be acceptable. Barolo on Beaufort has in a restaurant kitchen; he’s been donningan impressive facade and a cavernous the bones of a good restaurant; a more an apron whenever he can at a couple ofsquare-shaped interior with face brick subtle approach to its food would improve Perth’s better restaurants over the paston one side, a large Campari mural on it dramatically. 448 Beaufort St, Highgate; few years. Claremont is in the heart ofthe other, a part-open kitchen in the phone (08) 6162 9387. Eagles territory and I’m sure Beluga willback corner, wooden floors, marble- attract plenty of local attention, as well astopped tables and timber chairs. One of the premier restaurant locationsI dine on a quiet Tuesday evening in Perth is right on the Swan River at a solid blue and gold following. Grapevineand there is noticeable noise-bounce; the Old Swan Brewery in Crawley. will head back and have an in-depth look,I imagine this would be disconcerting Zafferano, at the northern end of the when things settle down.on a busy evening. Prices for food are site, has changed ownership but remainsfair, service is obliging but the dishes much the same. It has elegance, serves The new Italian restaurant at the Burswoodcould do with refining, especially as we quality food, has good service and those Entertainment Complex is Modo Mioare still in the last throes of a blowtorch postcard views across the river to South and has Milan chef Giampaolo Maffinisummer/autumn. Perth and beyond to the city will not go in charge of the kitchen. His style of food away. Most diners treat it as a special- is traditional Italian but, importantly, has a A starter of artichoke and cheese fondue event restaurant or somewhere to bring gentle touch. “Italian cuisine can often be($16) is a bowl of warm, gluey, melted a guest from overseas or interstate. I’ve heavy and rich, but I like to create lightercheese and small portions of artichoke been to more than a few functions here dishes,” he says. Phone (08) 9362 7551.with crusty bread pieces for dipping.Gutsy flavours here, although there is no Left: Beluga interior (photographer - Sam Blackwell). Right: Zafferano overlooking the Swan River. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 69
winewords C O N O R V A N D E R R E E S TSKYE MURTAGHRunning a winery alongside what is rapidly What were your early experiences like I was looking for work experience in thebecoming one of the most popular tourism as a winemaker in Canada? southern hemisphere. I wasn’t interested inattractions in Tasmania might be distracting I did my undergrad studies at Brock sauvignon blanc, so was more interestedfor some - but Moorilla winemaker Conor van University. I tried to work at as many places in Australia. Looking at the map, it seemedder Reest has his focus firmly on the fruit. as I could over my four years there. I had fairly obvious that Tasmania had to be one some very good experiences and others I of the coolest parts of the country so, not Born in Canada on Ontario’s Niagara would sooner forget. I managed to work knowing if there were even any wineriesPeninsula, Conor joined the Moorilla team for eight different producers over four in the state, I started canvassing for work.four years ago and has been working hard years. It was important to me as I grew upever since to further solidify the winery’s in Northern Ontario and was 19 before I’d What developments lie ahead for Moorillaplace on the Australian wine scene. ever seen a wine grapevine. in the area of winemaking?Moorilla produces refined cool-climate We have a number of new blocks which willwines - with riesling, gewurztraminer, What might surprise people about the start producing from next year, which I’mchardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet the Canadian winemaking scene? looking forward to getting into the winery.signature varietals. Fruit is sourced from Most people think we only make ice wines, We’re also going to be planting a new clonethe winery’s home base in the Derwent but we do a lot more than just that. While of chardonnay I think will be very excitingValley (at Berriedale, just outside Hobart), we’re not a huge producer compared to as it will be very new for the country.where the vines embrace the recently many countries, we tend to focus more I’m also hoping to start organising a newopened Museum of Old and New Art on quality and boutique production. Last tirage line for the winery.(MONA), and its vineyards in the Tamar time I looked, our most planted variety wasregion, further north. riesling. While it’s used for dessert wines, What do you consider are the main the vast majority is for table wines. We also challenges facing the Tasmanian wine Moorilla was established in 1958 by make a lot of very good red wine using your industry over the next decade?Claudio Alcorso, an Italian textile merchant typical Bordeaux varieties. Small amounts The Tasmanian industry faces many of thewho emigrated to Tasmania in 1937. As of shiraz are planted in Ontario, but more same issues that the rest of the countryone of the pioneers of the state’s wine in British Columbia. does. I think we need to insure and plan soindustry, he made his mark blending OldWorld styles with New World practices. His Before arriving in Tasmania you workedvision continues today under the watch of in several countries. Is it important forDavid Walsh, who acquired the estate with a winemaker’s development to work inhis partners in the 1990s. different wine regions? I think my work experience abroad is An entrepreneur and art enthusiast, the cornerstone to how I developedDavid has expanded the Moorilla estate my winemaking philosophies. Whileover the past 15 years to incorporate it’s important to see how others makea brewing facility, restaurant, luxury wine using the same varieties, I thinkaccommodation and most recently, it’s more important to combine themMONA, Australia’s largest private and develop your own thoughts andmuseum complex. Construction of the methods. For me, my working abroad hasmuseum required relocating the original been a real evolutionary experience. Mywinery operation and Conor has relished favourite places, and those which havethe task of supervising the design and influenced me most, are Champagne (wineinstallation of Moorilla’s new winemaking assemblage), Bordeaux (wine structure)facilities. The next project on his agenda and the Rhine Valley (wine finesse).is leading the vineyard in a shift towardsa more organic and sustainable approach What initially drew you to Tasmania toto its viticultural practices. further your winemaking career? I was drawn to Tasmania before I’d evenHow did you come to be in the wine visited Australia. I tried unsuccessfullyindustry - was it fluke or fate? to get work experience here in 2003.Fluke - I was looking and researching I have always been drawn to cooleroncology and saw oenology. I looked climates and while working in Champagneit up and it ticked the boxes with otheragriculture and science interests. I appliedand went for it and got hooked.70 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011
that growth in Tasmania is sustainable andfollows quality and boutique production.We also need to communicate better tothe wine drinking public why our wines areunique and why they should spend moremoney to drink them.Describe your personal wine collection?Either non-existent or very far away! The bulkof my cellar is still in Canada and getting wellon in years. My collection here is very tinyas I have to wait for renovations in order tohave a place to store what I would like tohave in my cellar. I buy more wines that areready to drink so I can avoid cellaring them,so most of my wines are ordered in from themainland or online auctions.Do you have a soft spot for any oneparticular variety?Gewurztraminer. Firstly, because for me it’sone of the true noble varieties. Secondly,because like pinot noir, it’s unable to bemade well outside of cool climates. Thirdly,excellent gewurz combines all the bestcomponents of what I think wines need: fruitand savoury finesse, structure and subtlety.Can you recall your first-ever wineexperience?I remember maybe being around sixor seven and bothering my parents atChristmas to try their wine. When they finallygave it to me I was appalled at how awful itwas. I don’t know what I had expected it tobe like, but it wasn’t that. I know now that itwas probably one of the worst wines I couldhave had for a first try. It was a southernFrench white blend and it kept me fromtrying wine for 10 more years.Where’s the most unusual place you’veever consumed wine?Maybe wild boar hunting in Thuringen? Therewould have been a few German rieslings.What’s the most useful trait anywinemaker could have?Patience: good wines take time to make, staffmake mistakes, equipment breaks down,weather is uncontrollable, wine doesn’t sellitself and you can’t control the media! July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 71
It’s all about innovationAmcor GlassFor more information contactAmcor Glass Customer ServicePh (08) 8521 [email protected]
the wine & spiritinsiderJuly/August 2011 Issue 118 FREE COPY cover image WesternProperty Developmentsin this issue THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THEWHISKIES OF THE WORLD LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER.NEW RELEASES Winestate Publishingand ABN 56 088 226 411Top 40Best Wine Buysunder $20
34 TASTED25 AWARDEDWHISKIES OF THE WORLDHere we have a nice sampling of why whisky lovers areobsessed with this product. At their finest, whiskeysexhibit all the complexity of oak ageing and purebalanced character of a fine wine, with the pure spiritadding that extra ‘glow’.BLENDED Chivas Regal Gold Sullivans Cove Pure Ardbeg The Ultimate 10 YOSCOTCH WHISKY Signature Aged 18 Years Australian Port Cask Islay Single Malt Scotch Scotland Blended Scotch Maturation Tasmania Whisky 46% HHHH1/211 TASTED Whisky 40% HHH1/2 Single Cask Malt Light yellow in colour, with7 AWARDED Estery, perfumed bouquet and Whisky 60% HHH1/2 huge peaty/iodine bouquet - good clean palate with great Some caramel notes on the very Islay - and a huge, fresh,Much-improved class from depth of flavour and alcohol. nose, and an elegant, woody young, smoky and lightweightthose seen in previous years, Very drinkable. $95 palate exhibiting flavours of iodine palate. \"A real wildwith better oak and better chocolate and prune juice! $150 thing,\" said one judge. $85blending. \"The gap between the The Famous Dad Scotland Dalwhinnie Aged 15 Yearsstandard and deluxe products is Scotch Whisky 40% HHH SINGLE MALT Highland Single Maltnarrowing,\" suggested one judge. Pleasant nose and smooth SCOTCH WHISKY Scotch Whisky 43% HHHH palate layered with fruit and UNDER $100 Complexity of peaty/floralThe Famous Grouse oak, and a crisp finish. $37 aromas and a warming palateAged 18 Years Scotland 11 TASTED with nice peat characters andBlended Malt Scotch King Robert Scotland 11 AWARDED good wood sweetness on aWhisky 40% HHHH1/2 Scotch Whisky 40% HHH lingering finish. $84Excellent style, with a big lift of Crisp, grainy nose and round, Very consistent group of solid The Glenrothesdark, rich sherry wood aromas luscious palate with good wood whiskys, tending towards the Select Reserve Scotlandexhibiting hints of tomato bush and slight nuttiness. $32 light, more elegant styles, with Single Malt Scotchand peat. Aged, savoury flavours a few exhibiting additional Whisky 43% HHHH- very spicy and complex, with Grant's Heritage Reserve peaty characters. \"All of these Well-balanced, easy-drinkingvery good wood. $90 Aged 15 years Scotland are good examples of quality style of whisky that's quite Scotch Whisky 40% HHH whiskys,\" said one judge. sweet and has some veryJohnnie Walker Red Label Malty oak aromas and soft attractive grainy oak and lovelyScotland Blended Scotch and luscious in the mouth, Glenmorangie Lasanta crisp maltiness. $80Whisky 40% HHHH with pleasant sweetness and 12 Year Old Highland Glenmorangie NectarGreat golden colour with slightly spicy notes. $N/A Single Malt Scotch D'Or 12 Year Old Highlandastringent, dry, peaty nose and Whisky 46% HHHH1/2 Single Malt Scotchrich, full-flavoured palate loaded AUSTRALIAN Big, rich and complex, with Whisky 46% HHHHwith sweet, spicy, peppery SINGLE MALT lovely oak balance, some Easy to drink - very sweet, withcharacters. $32 WHISKY excellent spirit and sweet, fruity some good wood that is well layers. Good rancio age and a integrated with attractive fruity-Chivas Regal 6 TASTED spicy, sweet, cloying finish. $85 like characters. Shows goodAged 12 Years 1 AWARDED age strength. $95Scotland Blended ScotchWhisky 40% HHH1/2 The judges were disappointedGood oak definition on the with this group. \"Overall the spiritnose, followed by an elegant, is fine,\" noted one judge, \"but it'ssweet and spicy palate. Very the finishing that is the problem,well matured. $40 with either filtration or short-term oak maturation issues.\" Still a work in progress here.74 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
feature tastingGlenfarclas Highland SINGLE MALT Highland Park Aged15 Years Scotland SCOTCH WHISKY 18 Years Orkney IslandsSingle Malt Scotch OVER $100 Single Malt ScotchWhisky 46% HHH1/2 Whisky 43% HHHH1/2The nose has a good sherry oak 6 TASTED Huge, complex style with verylift and the palate is complex rich peaty/malty characters andand caramely, with spicy 6 AWARDED loads of sweet oak. Smoothflavours and creamy malt. $110 in the mouth - almost jelly-like texture, with lingering spicinessGlenfiddich Outstanding consistency. \"Here and soft alcohol. $16012 Years Old Scotland we see the benefit of extra time Glenmorangie ExtremelySingle Malt Scotch in the barrel, better oak and Rare 18 YO HighlandWhisky 40% HHH1/2 products 'chosen to be what Single Malt ScotchGood malt richness to the nose, they are',\" said one judge. Again, Whisky 43% HHHHand warm, spirity flavours with judges' preferences varied from Gently perfumed nose smellingsome pleasing sweetness. $69 one whisky to another, which of citrus, peat and wood. Rich,Glenmorangie The Quinta makes for interesting tasting. spicy and slightly oily in theRuban Port Cask Highland mouth, with hints of woodSingle Malt Scotch Ardbeg Corryvreckan richness. $129Whisky 46% HHH1/2 Islay Single Malt ScotchDark, rich and peaty on the Whisky 57.1% HHHH1/2nose, with a hint of ginger. Lifted, perfumed aromas and aPalate light, crisp and sweet, lively, alcohol-driven palate withwith floral/fruity flavours. $85 really big toffee flavours, \"and an Islay presence in the mouthGlenmorangie Astar that really grabs you\", accordingCask Strength Highland to one judge. $145Single Malt Scotch Glenfarclas 105 CaskWhisky 57.1% HHH Strength HighlandSmells like cream biscuits, Single Malt Scotchaccording to one judge. Hot Whisky 60% HHHH1/2and lively palate with intense, Smells of sweet ginger biscuitscrisp flavours. $99 and has sweet, luscious, dried fruit flavours enveloping theGlenfarclas Highland mouth. Good alcohol zest and8 Years Scotland a very dry, spicy finish. Rich,Single Malt Scotch well-aged whisky. $110Whisky 40% HHH The MacallanSpicy, perfumed bouquet and Fine Oak 18 Highlandlusciously sweet palate with a Single Malt Scotchsoft, syrupy finish. $69 Whisky 43% HHHH1/2 Sweet, complex and veryGlenmorangie Ardbeg Uigeadail Islay smooth product with goldenThe Original 10 Year Old Single Malt Scotch hues. Lifted, spicy aromasHighland Single Malt Whisky 54.2% HHHH1/2 and a peaty/malty palate withScotch Whisky 40% HHH Massive and very intense warming alcohol, raisined fruitVery light, peaty aromas and a whisky that's driven by the and an oaky finish. $165clean, spicy palate - slightly oily alcohol. Smoky bouquet andand with an astringent finish. $75 big, rich, mouth-gripping Islay characters on the palate. Has presence! $125Graham Wright Russell Johnson JUDGESDirector Oddbins Wine CEO of Russell JohnsonAuctions. Has completed Consulting. Formerly Steven Matthewsthe advanced wine wine division technical Lecturer in hospitalityassessment course at the manager of Beringer Blass studies at RegencyWine Research Institute. Wine Estates. Eight years’ College of Tafe andFormerly fine wine retailer experience as production formerly Adelaide Institutewith Baily and Baily. manager with Seagram of TAFE. Former generalAustralian Malt Whisky Spirits. Adelaide Wine Show manager of Earl of ZetlandConvention show judge. judge in the brandy class. Hotel, and malt specialist. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 75
ACCESS ASIA’S ACTIVITIES TO STRENGTH INFLOURISHING WINE MARKET PROMOTE WINE ORGANISATIONWine appreciation, wine consumption While the fair creates a trading arena The Hong Kong International Wine &and wine investment are all reaching of excellence, it has the long-range Spirits Fair has quickly establishedrecord levels as Asia’s wine market objective of supporting the wine industry itself as a ‘must-attend’ event for thecontinues to grow. by educating consumers and raising the international wine industry.The Hong Kong Trade Development profile of wine in the region.Council’s Hong Kong International Wine & With over 40 years’ experience in tradeSpirits Fair is the gateway for winemakers Among the fair’s many activities is the fairs, the Hong Kong Trade Developmentand distributors of wine and other prestigious Cathay Pacific Hong Kong Council (HKTDC) has brought all itsbeverages to gain a share of this lucrative International Wine & Spirit Competition, expertise and resources to bear on thismarket. The Chinese mainland alone the world’s first authentically Asian highly professional event. HKTDC has aholds massive potential and this fair, with competition, and its largest. A new global network through which it publicisesits popularity with mainland buyers, brings category has been added to the the fair to international buyers throughthe chance to realise that potential. competition - Spirits - and a new wine-and- direct contact, print and electronic media,Hong Kong is itself a major wine trading food-pairing category has been created, media events and other tools.hub. Its total wine imports increased by with a trophy for Best Wine with Sashimi.70 per cent in the first 11 months of 2010, PARTICIPANT COMMENTSreaching HK$6.08 billion. OTHER ACTIVITIES INCLUDE: “We have brought together 70 wineHIGHLIGHTS OF 2010 · Wine Industry Conference, bringing companies from different parts of Australia some of the world's top experts together; at the Australian Wine Pavilion this year.Almost 700 exhibitors from 30 countries Australia is the partner country of 2010 Hongand regions - a record - participated in the · Asia Top Sommelier Summit, Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair, thethird edition of the fair in 2010. Australia introducing acclaimed sommeliers only wine show the Australian governmentfeatured as the partner country, attracting such as Gerard Basset of the UK, the supports. We take this opportunity to70 exhibitors showcasing their wine at the World’s Best Sommelier 2010, who promote our country and our 64 regions ofevent. Argentina, the Chinese mainland, attended the 2010 event; wine production featuring many and variedFrance, Germany, Hungary, India, Italy, styles such as cabernet, chardonnay andPortugal, South Africa, Spain, Tunisia · Seminars, wine tasting sessions cool-climate pinot noir. It is great to see theand the US also formed group pavilions. and masterclasses, broadening growing interest in wine here. This show isThe 2010 fair attracted over 14,000 trade the knowledge of both trade and very impressive and our pavilion is full ofbuyers from 67 countries and regions. public attendees; visitors. We have also seen a lot of media reports and publicity about the exhibition.”INTERACTION · The Most Beloved Wine contest,WITH CONSUMERS creating excitement through voting; - Phil Ingram, Senior Trade Commissioner and Deputy Consul-General (Commercial),The fair is open to the public on its final · Wine Gallery, presenting wine, wine Australian Trade Commission, Australiaday, giving exhibitors the chance to receive accessories and related displays fromfeedback, promote brand recognition and around the world.educate the public. In 2010, over 14,000public visitors came to the fair. For further information contact Ms Toni Wade of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, Sydney Office on +61 (2) 9261-8911 or [email protected]. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 77
NEW RELEASES251 TASTED120 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESIn this tasting the pick this time came from some excellent Barwon Ridge Wineschardonnay and cabernet wines, with surprisingly good Reserve Geelongpinots. An honourable mention also goes to some interesting Region MarsanneMediterranean varietals. 2010 HHH Stone-fruit aromas with varnishy characters and a rich, soft, honeyed palate. True to variety. $34SPARKLING Misty Glen Patrick of The Willow Lane Capercaillie Wines Hunter Coonawarra Aged Mudgee Viognier Hunter Valley8 TASTED Valley Sparkling Wrattonbully Riesling 2010 HHHH Gewurztraminer3 AWARDED Chambourcin 2006 HHHH1/2 Complexity of toasty/ 2011 HHHAlthough too many wines NV HHH Classic aged riesling smoky/peachy aromas Delicate, spicy varietalwere simple and lacked Smells of dried plums with toasty lime aromas with a rich, viscous with perfumedany yeast complexity, and has a simple, and generous palate tropical fruit palate flavours laced witha few stood out. straightforward, Ribena- - still fresh and lively showing very good crisp acidity. $22 like palate with good with delicious intensity texture and flavourClover Hill Vintage mouthfeel. $25 of bright, fresh citrus length. $25 MaximusBrut 2007 HHHH flavours. Has a few years Mount Monument McLaren ValeHuge, developed, yeasty Taltarni T Series left in it yet. 3-5 $38 Macedon Ranges Viognier 2009 HHHstyle with biscuity Brut Cuvee Riesling 2009 HHH1/2 Unusual nose with agedcomplexity and a palate Chardonnay Pinot Soft varietal developing riesling-like characters.offering a mouthful of Noir NV HHH a typical aged kerosene Creamy palate exhibitsdry/sour flavours with Genuine methode edge. Zesty, elegant, excellent flavours.hints of France! $46.99 champenois-like aromas lemony palate with $24.99 and rich, soft, sherbety more of the kero flavours and sweet characters. $23 Willow Bridge Estate finish. $16.99 AT Richardson Dragonfly Western Wines Chockstone Australia Chenin OTHER WHITE Grampians Riesling Blanc 2010 HHH VARIETALS 2010 HHH Interesting wine - very & BLENDS Pretty, delicate, floral grassy bouquet and aromas and a lively, fresh sweet, viscous, fruit 13 TASTED lime juice palate. $20 salad palate. $16.50 8 AWARDED SAUVIGNON Promising range of BLANC different varietals, with & BLENDS riesling the standout, followed by some 15 TASTED interesting viogniers. 1 AWARDED The judges were disappointed! They found too many wines lacking fruit and warned that phenolic pressings are not a substitute!78 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
w iwninee &&spsiript iinrsiidter itnasstini dg neerwtraelsetaisnesgQuarram Rocks SEMILLON Capercaillie Hunter The Growers' Grant BurgeGreat Southern WA & BLENDS Valley Semillon Peppermint Grove Summers AustraliaSauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH Western Australia ChardonnaySemillon 2010 HHHH 8 TASTED Chalky, green apple Unwooded 2010 HHH1/2Dry wine with pungent 7 AWARDED aromas and tart green Chardonnay Stylish savoury oak/aromas and a fresh, spicy, fruit flavours. Typical 2010 HHHH butterscotch nose andperfumed palate with lots Very consistent group of young Hunter. $25 Attractive, perfumed beautifully structuredof herbaceous characters wines. One judge noted, melon aromas palate with good fruitand crisp acidity. $14 \"Classic young Hunter Fermoy The mingling with some flavour concentration. semillon flavours of Partnership nice leesy characters.PINOT GRIS/ rainwater and lemon juice. Margaret River Crisp citrus fruit on a 3-5 $26.95GRIGIO The addition of semillon to Semillon Sauvignon palate with drying oak Mount Charlie sauvignon blanc with the Blanc 2010 HHH astringency. $15.95 Riddells Creek7 TASTED WA wines makes for a Soft, well-integrated Elmswood Estate Chardonnay1 AWARDED much better wine.\" wine smelling of Reserve Yarra Valley 2010 HHH1/2Another disappointing honeydews and tasting Chardonnay Buttery, ripe fruitclass showing poor Bethany of citrus and melons. $22 2010 HHH1/2 characters on the nosewinemaking overall. Barossa Semillon Leaner style of and nicely textured, 2010 HHH1/2 Misty Glen Wines chardonnay with savoury palate showingQueen Adelaide Lovely long, crisp, Hunter Valley nice fleshy varietal early development. $19.99South Eastern lemony varietal. \"Serve Semillon 2010 HHH fruit somewhat SidewoodAustralia Pinot with fried whitebait on Zesty lemon nose with overshadowed by some Reserve AdelaideGrigio 2010 HHH a pier,\" suggested one perfumed, lavender-like toasty nutty oak. $40 Hills ChardonnayPears and citrus on judge. $18 flavours. \"Traminer-like,\" 2010 HHH1/2the nose and a sweet, thought one judge. $20 Complex, creamy,flavoursome palate. Fishbone Margaret nutty bouquet andCrowd pleaser. $7.99 River Semillon The Growers' deep, fleshy palate with Sauvignon Blanc Peppermint Grove serious oak complexity 2010 HHH1/2 Western Australia and drying tannins. $34 Pleasant fruit nose Semillon Sauvignon The Marquise with slight pungency, Blanc 2010 HHH Mt Gambier and nicely integrated, Lifted, fresh-cut grass- Chardonnay herbaceous palate. Made like nose with tropical 2010 HHH1/2 for drinking now. $20 flavours and bright, lively Well-balanced, modern acidity. $15.95 style with mellow, toasty Gemstone Western aromas and flavoursome Australia Semillon CHARDONNAY butterscotch over melon Sauvignon Blanc 2010 palate. $21.95 2010 HHH1/2 Henry's Drive Light confectionery fruit 21 TASTED Vignerons Morse bouquet and good zingy 12 AWARDED Code Padthaway varietal fruit flavour Chardonnay intensity with lovely line Solid class with lots to 2010 HHH of crisp acidity. $15.95 look forward to agreed Subtle oatmeal/peach the judges. aromas, and nice range of flavours offering pleasant drinking. $12Peter Simic Stephen John JUDGESEditor/publisher Winestate Owner/winemaker ofMagazine. More than 30 years’ Stephen John Wines. Ella Robinsonexperience in the wine industry. More than 30 years’ Project Manager - IndustryFormerly founding publisher of winemaking experience. Applications for thea US wine magazine, manager Has judged at Adelaide, Australian Wine Researchof the SA Wine Information National, and Barossa Institute. Member of theBureau, and wine educator with Wine Shows. Regular AWRI’s quality judgingRegency College of TAFE in Winestate panellist and panel since 2002.SA. Peter is also a regular wine chairman of judges at Completed the Advancedcommentator on national radio the Winestate Wine of Wine Assessmentand television programs. the Year Awards. Course in 2004. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 79
NEW RELEASES Hungerford Hill Fishcage80 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2010 HHH Toasty/peachy fruit aromas and nicely layered fruit/oak palate with loads of flavour. $18 Richmond Grove French Cask Barossa Valley Chardonnay 2010 HHH Reserved, peachy nose and nice depth of varietal fruit flavours with drying, tannic finish. $14.99 Sticks Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2010 HHH Subtle peach/melon bouquet and a nicely textured, crisp, citrus Toolangi Estate Brown Brothers palate. 3-5 $18 Yarra Valley Patricia Victoria Chardonnay Chardonnay Sticks No. 29 Yarra 2007 HHHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Valley Chardonnay Lovely pristine, clean, Developing buttery fruit 2010 HHH aged chardonnay with characters intermingle Melon pulp and peach golden fruit/toasty oak with sweet melon/peach nose, with a fleshy nose and nice leesy fruit. Big rich mouthful palate and balanced complexity. Finely of wine! $29.90 sweetness. $35 textured palate has great balance. Offers Trentham TE excellent drinking over Estate Chardonnay the next 2-3 years. $50 2010 HHH Crowd pleaser with pleasant melon/peach nose and sweet fruit flavours. $16 CHARDONNAY 2009 & OLDER 10 TASTED 5 AWARDED The good wines here show great style as they age. \"Well done!\" said one judge. All Saints Estate Stuart Wines Family Cellar White Box Yarra Victoria Chardonnay Valley Chardonnay 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 Subtle sweet melon Easy-drinking style with aromas lift off the nose, loads of flavour. Nutty followed by a nicely nose and melon/citrus textured palate with palate. $19.95 lovely length and depth of creamy cashew/ toffee flavours. $30
wine & spirit insider tastingMount Monument Bimbadgen Regions Sidewood AdelaideMacedon Ranges Tasmania Pinot Noir Hills Pinot NoirChardonnay 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH2009 HHH1/2 Crimson red colour to this Very simple red berryRich, buttery aromas clean, well-made, meaty, nose and fresh, lively drywith some smoky savoury, pinot showing a red palate with high acidcharacters, and full, long, lean and somewhat and green tannins. $34toasty oak flavours green palate with anwith good fruit impact astringent finish. $39 Sticks Yarra Valleyunderneath. $29 Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Quarram Rocks Great Intense, jammy aromasROSE Southern WA Pinot and oaky flavours with Noir 2009 HHHH berries underneath and5 TASTED Complexity of savoury, subtle tannins. $221 AWARDED yeasty, soy sauce aromas and quite a ripe, warm OTHER REDOnly one wine made palate loaded with sweet VARIETALSthe grade - a lighter, fruit and a savoury tannic & BLENDSdry red style. backbone. 3-5 $14 16 TASTED Spring Vale Freycinet 9 AWARDED Coast TAS Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH Some really interesting Soft nose with lifted wines here across a primary fruit aromas. Rich, range of varietals. Lots fresh mouthful of lovely of potential for the floral fruit flavours on future. Try them! the warm alcohol palate. Plenty of length. $40 Sticks No.29 Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Very spicy oak on the nose with berry fruits underneath. Lovely freshness and balance on the berry palate. 3-5 $45 Trentham Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Roses and violets on the nose, with a spicy lift. Fresh and fleshy in the mouth and delicate in flavour. 3-5 $14Eldredge ClareValley Sangiovese Balgownie EstateRosé 2010 HHH Black Label YarraDry lollypop nose Valley Pinot Noirand relatively dry but 2010 HHHflavoursome palate with Meaty wine with lingeringa tannic end. Good food oak dominating the solidwine. $17 fruit characters. $24PINOT NOIR Elmswood Estate Eldredge Clare Reserve Yarra Valley Valley Malbec15 TASTED Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH10 AWARDED 2010 HHH Interesting wine Savoury touch to with intense, inkyGreat surprise - well the nose with a concentration to thedone, winemakers! flavoursome savoury nose and big, rich,The judges were pleased fruit/oak palate. $45 hot and flavoursometo see young varietal palate with juicy licoricewines rather than dry characters. 5+ $25reds, as in the past. Millbrook Great Southern Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Lifted rhubarb aromas and a palate with flavour and freshness and warming finish. $28 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 81
NEW RELEASES Madeleines Kalleske Buckboard Nangkita Single Barossa Valley Durif Vineyard Fleurieu 2009 HHH Peninsula Primitivo Huge, intense wine with 2009 HHH1/2 very ripe, raisined fruit, Pleasant, apricot-like loads of oak and a warm nose with a spicy, finish. 3-5 $23 peppery lift and pungent stewed stone-fruit Morris of Rutherglen flavours with a strong Rutherglen Durif acid spine. $24 2008 HHH Gigantic chocolaty Tenafeate Creek fruit aromas and Wines Black Top a huge 'macho' palate. Blend One Tree Lock it in the cellar! Hill Petit Verdot Cabernet Sauvignon 5+ $17.99 Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 GRENACHE Raw, aggressive youth & BLENDS with an earthy/chocolaty nose and nice dry red 9 TASTED flavours. Has structure and length. 5+ $30 3 AWARDED Galli Estate Riserva With grenache you can Heathcote Sangiovese have great wines or 2009 HHHH thin, insipid ones. It's all Spices, cherries and about the winemaking some violets on the and the blending. nose and an elegant, A mixed bag here. light-bodied berry palate with fresh, lively acidity. Grant Burge Drink now. $42 The Holy Trinity Barossa Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2008 HHHH Stylish wine, still very youthful, with a blanket of soft, stone-fruit characters developing some nice oaky complexity and with fresh, lively acid. $42.95 All Saints Estate Tenafeate Creek Victoria Durif Wines Basket 2009 HHH Press One Tree Typical inky/chocolaty Hill Grenache aromas and big 2010 HHH1/2 but balanced, Nice varietal aromas, with flavoursome licorice youthful, plummy fruit palate. 3-5 $25 on a vibrant palate with excellent spiciness, depth Willow Bridge Estate Eldredge JD Clare and freshness. $25 Solana Geographe Valley Sangiovese Maximus Cadenzia Tempranillo 2009 HHH McLaren Vale 2009 HHHH Huge, old-fashioned red Grenache Shiraz Crimson wine with lovely wine with ripe licorice Mourvedre 2009 HHH fresh, savoury fruit and fruit and firm, drying Confectionery stone- nice peppery/licorice tannins. $25 fruit aromas; some development. Much the same on the hot, syrupy palate. $24.99 notes. Firm acid on the tannic palate. Good food wine. 3-5 $2282 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
wine & spirit insider tastingMERLOT CABERNET Majella The Musician BLENDS Coonawarra4 TASTED Cabernet Shiraz 11 TASTED 2010 HHH1/22 AWARDED 6 AWARDED Strong class of elegant, Fresh and lively plum mid-weight and balanced bouquet, and soft styles showing you can and fleshy palate with have fruit intensity and attractive dry red flavours. acidity without high A keeper. 5+ $18 alcohol and overripeness.Chestnut Grove LongfellowsReserve Manjimup Wine Export Exporting the best of Australian wines to the world.Merlot 2009 HHHHLovely merlot withdelightful aromatics Elmswood Estateof deep plum fruit and Yarra Valleydusty oak and an elegant, Cabernet Merlotwell-balanced palate 2010 HHH1/2with delicious blackberryflavours. 5+ $40 Lifted, toasty oak aromas leading to a All Saints Estate nicely balanced fruit/ Pierre Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot oak palate with a nice touch of oak on the Cabernet Franc finish. 3-5 $25 2009 HHHH Soft blackcurrant fruit nose with lifted Queen Adelaide fragrances of rose petals South Eastern and black tea. Nicely Australia Cabernet balanced, well-structured Merlot 2010 HHH palate with oak/fruit Fragrant, leafy, beetroot- flavours. 3-5 $30 like aromas and a straightforward, sweet Gemstone Western fruit palate. $7.99 Australia Cabernet CABERNET Merlot 2010 HHH1/2 SAUVIGNON Nose of fresh plum fruit and nice grippy palate 19 TASTED with well-balanced flavours. Attractive 11 AWARDED quaffer. 3-5 $15.95Elmswood Estate The Growers' Solid and consistent,Yarra Valley Merlot Peppermint Grove with a range of styles2010 HHH1/2 Western Australia from cool-climate regionsLean, herbaceous/ Cabernet Merlot to more opulent versions KOOYONGblackberry aromas and 2010 HHH1/2 from the warmer climes.firm palate. Still looking Nice fragrances of \"The lesser wines www.longfellowswines.com.aufresh, with excellent ripe plum fruits, and a showed lack of attentiondepth of blackberry supple, well-rounded to detail in both viticulture palate and pleasant, and winemaking,\" youthful fruit flavours. said one judge. 3-5 $15.95flavours. 5+ $28 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 83
NEW RELEASES Morris Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Service Clean, spicy style with to savour nice cassis varietal fruit characters and (and a very fresh vanillin oak fine nose). support. $17.99 Linking Australia with all coasts Redden Bridge of North and South America; The Crossing the Caribbean; Northern Europe Wrattonbully and the Mediterranean; Asia; Cabernet Sauvignon India; Pakistan; New Zealand 2008 HHH and the Pacific Islands. Beautiful blackberry/ For more, visit us at cigar box bouquet and www.hamburgsud.com powerful, serious, dry red flavours. 5+ $20 No matter what. SHIRAZ84 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER BLENDS 16 TASTED 7 AWARDED Brown Brothers Geoff Merrill Patricia Victoria G & W McLaren Cabernet Sauvignon Vale Coonawarra Average across the board, 2006 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon with some exceptions. Dark, rich and chocolaty 2007 HHH1/2 Too many wines had on the nose with a Developed chocolaty/ higher levels of alcohol bright, minty lift. The leathery wine with sweet than the fruit could handle. palate has depth, blackcurrant fruit - very richness and structure flavoursome and at its and is full of intense peak. Drink now. $27.50 Madeleines Pudding berry fruit flavours, solid Parson's Paddock Stone Fleurieu tannins and warming Langhorne Creek Peninsula Syrah alcohol. 3-5 $55 Cabernet Sauvignon Viognier 2009 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 Spicy/peppery lift to the Johnston Oakbank Juicy blackberry nose chocolaty plum aromas, Adelaide Hills and nicely textured palate and quite a viscous Cabernet Sauvignon with green, herbaceous, blueberry fruit palate 2009 HHHH blackberry flavours. Very showing lovely peppery Deep crimson, almost youthful. $11.99 length. $30 black, austere, young, Glendalough minty, green cabernet. Estate Clare Valley Bimbadgen Well-made wine Cabernet Sauvignon Regions Orange showing muted varietal 2007 HHH Shiraz Viognier fruit and fine tannin Nicely aged wine that has 2009 HHH1/2 backbone. $18 elegance and complexity Clean, well-made wine. with seamless fruit \"Unfriendly in its youth,\" integration. $22 thought one judge. Quite Majella Coonawarra Grant Burge green, with high acid. A Cabernet Sauvignon Cameron Vale keeper! 5+ $25 2009 HHHH Barossa Cabernet Dark, leafy, cassis fruit Sauvignon 2009 HHH Naked Run aromas and an elegant Touch of mint to the Hill 5 Clare Valley black cherry palate nicely chocolaty nose, and Shiraz Cabernet tempered with long, fine excellent intense 2009 HHH1/2 tannins and bright acidity. blackberry/cassis Nose of raisins and dark flavours. $26.95 chocolate, and richly 5+ $33 Grant Burge Corryton flavoured plum palate Park Barossa that's ripe and warm in Koonara Ambriel's Cabernet Sauvignon the mouth. $18 Gift Coonawarra 2009 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon Dense, tarry oak nose 2008 HHH1/2 and youthful, vibrant fruit Pleasant, well-integrated flavours with firm tannins. Taltarni stone-fruit nose and Reserve Shiraz well-structured palate 3-5 $42.95 Cabernet Sauvignon with good juicy dry red 2005 HHH1/2 flavours. 5+ $30 Old-fashioned, traditional style - great colour for its age, with dense, inky fruit and warming alcohol. $65
NEW RELEASESThe Willow Lane Lavina Meritus Elmswood Estate 5 Blind Mice Chateau TanundaPremium Blend McLaren Vale Shiraz Reserve Yarra Valley La Debutante Terroirs of theMudgee Shiraz Grenache 2008 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Barossa GreenockCabernet 2009 HHH A wine with impact! Purple/red wine - quite Shiraz 2010 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHHHHVarnishy element to the Soft, warm and syrupy, a peppery style - very Lovely fresh, lively, well- Excellent deep redfruit cake nose, with with lots of spicy apricot Rhonish and with good made red with big, rich colour, with lifted dustysimilar characters on the flavours. $28 length of chocolaty/ berry fruit and good acid vanillin oak aromashot palate. $25 prune characters. $50 backbone. $19 threaded through with Rosenthal The red berry fruits. Beautiful Naomi South Taylors Promised palate - soft and long and Western Australia Land South with lots of appealing Shiraz Cabernet Australia Shiraz mocha characters. $48 2009 HHH 2010 HHH Tim Smith Barossa Dusty/leafy cabernet Bright, vivid, impudent Shiraz 2009 HHHH characters on the nose, baby! Great varietal fruit Chocolaty fruit nose and lovely bright, well- and serious oak. Cellar it. layered with coconut-like balanced flavours. $25 oak, and big, powerful 5+ $13 palate loaded with plum SHIRAZ 2010 fruit flavours, coconut SHIRAZ 2009 oak and firm tannins. $32 4 TASTED Chateau Tanunda 3 AWARDED 35 TASTED Terroirs of the 17 AWARDED Barossa Lyndoch Lots to look forward to Shiraz 2009 HHHH with this vintage! Lots of alcohol here, Great colour, stylish which was surprising. cedary oak and Some excellent wines generous mulberry but also some also-rans. varietal fruit wrapped \"Are we taking this variety in drying tannins for granted and not giving and complemented them more attention?\" with attractive spicy asked one judge. elements. $48 BOOKED OUT (SYD) DAMIEN PIGNOLET 15th June BISTRO MONCUR Windy Point Restaurant $165pp Ph. 8278 8255 (MEL) (BRIS) (MEL) JACQUES PHILIP SHANNON REYMOND JOHNSON BENNETT 27th July 17th August TBAJACQUES REYMOND E’CCO BISTRO VUE DE RESTAURANT MONDE Red Ochre GrillWindy Point Restaurant $165pp Ph. 8211 8555 Windy Point Restaurant$165pp Ph. 8278 8255 $175pp Ph. 8278 825586 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
wine & spirit insider tasting Fermoy Grant Burge Majella Coonawarra Reillys Stolen Block Margaret River Miamba Barossa Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Clare Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Definite keeper with its 2009 HHH Chocolaty aromas with Excellent example of a nicely balanced fresh Alert, spicy number with an attractive peppery rich, ripe Aussie shiraz, plum fruit, creamy light, herbaceous fruit and lift, leading onto a soft, with nice integration of oak and fine tannin nicely balancing oak. $18 generous palate loaded cedary oak and berry backbone. 5+ $30 with sweet, spicy fruit fruits. $26.95 Blue Pyrenees and drying tannins. AT Richardson Pyrenees Shiraz Grant Burge Filsell Wines Chockstone 2009 HHH 5+ $25 Barossa Old Vine Grampians Shiraz Broad, earthy bouquet, Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH and a warm and spicy Bowen Estate Chocolaty/berry bouquet Quite a closed nose with oak palate layered with Coonawarra Shiraz and beautiful flavours with slight jammy hints. Nicely cherry fruit. $20 2009 HHH1/2 firm tannins, overt oak and rounded, fleshy palate full Big, ripe, jammy shiraz warming alcohol. $42.95 of plum fruit. $25 SHIRAZ with excellent savoury 2008 & OLDER elements. \"It's been built to last,\" commented one Laurance Swings & 28 TASTED judge. 5+ $30 Margaret River Roundabouts 13 AWARDED Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Margaret River Geoff Merrill Elegant, peppery varietal, Shiraz 2009 HHH \"Very disappointing but Pimpala Road South quite Rhone-like, with Simple commercial style not surprising from this Australia Shiraz intense, peppery nose with nice integration of hot vintage,\" said the 2009 HHH1/2 and tight palate with nice herbal fruit and oak with judges. Balance was anMcLaren Vale Big, rich, flavoursome plummy characters. $28 mocha overtones. $19 issue, with high alcohol,III Associates The wine with dark, sweet high acid and bitterDescendant of Squid berry fruits, some pepper Oakdene William Willow Bridge Estate tannins. Those that wereInk McLaren Vale and spice and still lots of Bellarine Peninsula Dragonfly Western recommended shouldShiraz 2009 HHHH acid. 3-5 $12.95 Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Australia Shiraz be congratulated!Young, tannic number Lovely depth of soft, 2009 HHHhigh in alcohol and with tarry, black varietal fruit Classic \"in-your-deep, rich, spicy fruit with attractive earthy face\" Aussie shiraz.and lovely oak richness. secondary characters Excellent varietal fruitOffers excellent cellaring developing. 5+ $28 mingling with chocolatypotential. 5+ $35 elements. $16.50 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 87
NEW RELEASES Lloyd Brothers Hand Mt Toolleen Picked McLaren Vale Premium Reserve Shiraz 2008 HHHH Heathcote Shiraz Dark, toasty, oak-driven 2006 HHH1/2 nose and sweet, fleshy Rich, flavoursome palate with good combination of ripe fruit, concentration of creamy toasty oak, bottle-aged stone-fruit flavours characters and soft, and nice tannin profile. warming alcohol. $25 3-5 $22 Willow Bridge Estate Black Dog WesternCrushed. Taltarni Heathcote Australia Shiraz Shiraz 2007 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Sombre, serious, Lovely sweet vanillin brooding number - \"Like oak and red berry fruits a storm approaching,\" with a nice savoury said one judge. Has interest and some lifted blueberry-like fruit spiciness. $60 characters and tobacco oak. 5+ $39.99 Lindenton Wines Limited Release Karanto 7A Amphora Rigoletto Heathcote Shiraz Langhorne Creek McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2007 HHHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Nice integration of ripe Fabulous wine with Sweet plums meet raspberry varietal fruit and intense raspberry aromas vanillin oak with licorice strong oak tannins. $33 layered with dark plum complexity. Mouthfilling, oak-driven palate that's Richmond Grove sweet and rich. $24 Limited Release Barossa Shiraz fruit. Beautifully balanced Cumulus Orange 2008 HHH palate with intense Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Big, ripe, hot and cool-climate varietal fruit, Subtle hint of candied jammy, with strong well-handled, creamy plum fruit aromas, with tarry oak, some acid and oak and a lovely lingering fresh plum flavours on a warm finish. $21.99 finish. 5+ $22 long palate with an oaky finish. 5+ $29.99 SWEET WHITES & Grant Burge FORTIFIEDS Meshach Barossa Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 7 TASTED Bottle-aged characters 1 AWARDED mixed with rich red berry fruit aromas, and Eclectic group, with only a mature, old-fashioned, one excellent wine. oak-driven palate. $155 Dowie Doole Koonara Ezra's Gift McLaren Vale Cane Coonawarra Shiraz Cut Viognier 2010 2008 HHH1/2 (375ml) HHHH Spicy plum aromas with a Complex, toasty, citrus menthol-like edge. Leaner, marmalade-like nose, nicely textured palate and powerful palate that's developing well. loaded with luscious, A keeper. 5+ $24 ripe flavours in theCrush 2011 is over... tropical spectrum. $25but to all those who got Crushed with us, we Longview Yakkathank you for your attendance and support. Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2Cellar door sales and tastings, open seven McLaren Vale Slightly porty, fruitdays all year round, 11am – 5pm. III Associates pastille-like fruit, with141 Onkaparinga Valley Road, Woodside, Giant Squid Ink cedary oak to balanceSouth Australia. McLaren Vale Shiraz and nicely wrapped in 2008 HHHH1/2 fine acidity. $27 Very enjoyable wine withPh: +618 8389 7706 rich mocha nose lifted byfacebook.com/barristersblock fruity notes. The palatebarristersblock.com.au offers a soft, warm \"hug\" of prunes, jam, coffee and oak. \"Take it skiing,\" suggested one judge. $50 BBW104 88 The Wine & Spirit INSIDERBBW104 Crushed Wine State Magazine 270x59.indd 13/3/11 12:03:03 PM
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TOP 40Taltarni T Series Brut Queen Adelaide Claymore Wines Stone Bridge Penna LaneCuvee Chardonnay South Eastern Joshua Tree Clare Wines Clare Valley Clare ValleyPinot Noir NV Australia Pinot Valley Riesling 2010 Riesling 2010 Semillon 2010Genuine methode Grigio 2010 Elegant lifted aromatic Big hit of rose petals and Lovely delicate lemon/champenois-like aromas Pears and citrus on nose of lemons and musky characters on the lime meringue-likeand rich soft sherbety the nose and a sweet limes with hay-like nose with some very characters on the noseflavours and sweet flavoursome palate. notes. Up-front sweet pretty floral flavours. $18 and a palate with a goodfinish. $16.99 Crowd pleaser. $7.99 fruitiness on a palate acid structure. $18 edged with steely acidity and finishing quite austere. 3-5 $18THE TOP 40 BEST BUYS LISTING TO QUALIFYis updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are 1 Wines must have first been recommended instill available - remain in the next issue’s Top 40 Best Buys group. Others will sell Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings. Styleout, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. Price is a major factor in selection. tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg, shiraz,The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Top 40 Best Buys listing comprises the best wines chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as shiraz/currently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ cabernet wines.from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Top 40Best Buys listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that 2 Wines from designated regional tastings arewould otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. eligible provided they are widely available.HOW IT WORKS 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in many liquor stores.In each issue Winestate’s publisher Peter Simic selects the highest-rated winesat specific price points. All wines have previously been judged for Winestate by 4 No cellar door-only wines are eligible.panels of expert judges.90 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
Rock Bare Henry's Drive Stuart Wines White Claymore Wines Fox Gordon ByMcLaren Vale Vignerons Morse Box Yarra Valley You'll Never Walk George BarossaChardonnay 2010 Code Padthaway Chardonnay 2009 Alone Clare Valley Valley CabernetCreme caramel-like nose Chardonnay 2010 Easy-drinking style with Grenache Mataro Tempranillo 2009and sour grippy palate Subtle oatmeal/peach loads of flavour. Nutty Shiraz 2009 Subtle aromas ofwith honey and apricot aromas and nice range nose and melon/citrus Complex savoury chocolate licoriceflavours emerging. $17.95 of flavours offering palate. $19.95 peppery aromas and a and spices. Very pleasant drinking. $12 velvety palate exhibiting flavoursome ripe sour cherry flavours jammy fruit palate with good use of oak and balancing oak. $19.95 silky-smooth tannins. Has a great funky character. 5+ $18OTHER WHITE WINES The Growers' Peppermint Grove Western Australia best buys Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010Reillys Clare Valley Sparkling Riesling 2010 Lifted fresh-cut grass-like nose with tropical flavours 20less thanNice yeasty/nutty complexity on the nose and a and bright lively acidity. $15.95pleasant light and tangy palate. $18 $ Bundaleer Clare Valley Chardonnay 2010Hugo McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Lightweight peachy aromas and well-made peach/Fruit tingle nose - smells of gooseberries with similar passionfruit palate. $17flavours on the greenish acid palate. $19 Hungerford Hill Fishcage TumbarumbaPaper Eagle Bird of Prey Fleurieu Peninsula Chardonnay 2010Riesling 2008 Toasty/peachy fruit aromas and nicely layered fruit/Lovely varietal nose and interesting slightly lemony oak palate with loads of flavour. $18and quite funky palate. $19.95 Sticks Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2010 Subtle peach/melon bouquet and a nicely textured crisp citrus palate. 3-5 $18 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 91
TOP 40Burk Salter South Reschke Bull Trader Patrick of Stone Bridge Wines James Oatley Tic TokAustralia Merlot Coonawarra Cabernet Coonawarra Clare Valley Cabernet Mudgee & FranklandCabernet 2009 Merlot 2006 Mother of Pearl Malbec 2008 River CabernetSmells of blackberry jam Big jammy aromas and Coonawarra Cabernet Rich and luscious with Sauvignon 2008and sour cherries; tastes rich savoury flavours with Merlot 2009 an earthy/funky edge on Generous blackcurrantof dark berries and slightly grippy tannins. Sweet and chocolaty nose both nose and palate and fruit nicely blended withvanillin oak with subtle Holding up well. $18 with a floral lift and lots of lovely support from the the spicy characters.tannins. $16 sweet plum fruit flavours tannins. 5+ $18 The nose has a minty with good oak. $19 element and the palate is full of generous fruit flavours. $17.99TOP 40 OTHER RED WINES Domain Barossa Barossa Valley Merlot 2010 Nicely structured wine with a lovely colour and Kilikanoon Second Fiddle Clare Valley Rosé 2010 showing a good weight of spicy stalky fruit wrapped Smells of strawberries and cream and has a simple in sweet tannins. Very flavoursome style. $19 but pretty sweet floral palate. $15 Bremerton Tamblyn Langhorne Creek Cabernet Eldredge Clare Valley Sangiovese Rosé 2010 Shiraz Malbec Merlot 2009 Dry lollypop nose and relatively dry but flavoursome palate with a tannic end. Good food wine. $17 Powerful and complex blend of lovely earthy/mocha characters with attractive herbal components and bright peppery notes. 5+ $18 Wild Oats Clare Valley Tempranillo 2009 Cumulus Wines Rolling Central Ranges Cabernet Merlot 2009 Complex savoury/herbal bouquet and sweet fruit Fragrances of violets and lavender and good flavour length and persistence on the lightweight palate. $17.99 flavours with medium tannins. 3-5 $18.90 Preece Victoria Merlot 2009 Aggressive vibrant red merlot with greener lighter fruit flavours and chalky tannins. $1592 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
Johnston Henry's Drive Sylvan Springs Renards Folly Renards FollyOakbank Adelaide Vignerons Bell Rd McLaren McLaren Vale McLaren ValeHills Cabernet Pillar Box Reserve Vale Cabernet Sangiovese Shiraz 2009Sauvignon 2009 Padthaway Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Cabernet 2009 Intense chocolatyDeep crimson almost Sauvignon 2009 Softly luscious wine Interesting and bouquet with nice spicy/black austere young Simple stewed fruit with sweet fruit and challenging wine earthy notes. Very ripeminty green cabernet. bouquet and lightweight obvious bacony oak. reminiscent of a savoury syrupy fruit-driven palateWell-made wine well-balanced palate Well made and very Italian style. $16.95 wrapped in some reallyshowing muted varietal with toasty/minty drinkable. $19.99 powerful oak. $19.95fruit and fine tannin flavours. $18backbone. $18De Bortoli Sacred Hill Cabernet Merlot 2009 Geoff Merrill Pimpala Road South Australia best buysAromas of tarry/charry oak mingling with Shiraz 2009blackberries with much the same for the tannic Big rich flavoursome wine with dark sweet berry 20less thanpalate. $7.50 fruits, some pepper and spice and still lots of acid. $Brokenwood McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 3-5 $12.95Merlot 2009Minty/menthol nose with floral touches. Simple spicy Taylors Clare Valley Shiraz 2009and well-balanced palate with quite a grippy finish. $19 Robust purple shiraz with inky rich earthy/gameyDestinations Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008Nice tight cool-climate cabernet with toasty oak aromas and hints of crushed ants. Palate a seamlesssitting on top of dark berry fruit. $16 integration of sweet plums earthy oak and silkyOxford Landing Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2009Very simple wine with blackberries on the nose and a tannins. Good varietal fruit expression. 5+ $18jammy fruit palate with a fresh minty lift. $8.95 Willow Bridge Estate Dragonfly Western Australia Shiraz 2009 Classic in-your-face Aussie shiraz. Excellent varietal fruit mingling with chocolaty elements. $16.50 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 93
TOP 405 Blind Mice La Kirrihill Clare Valley Haselgrove Heaslip Wines Heaslip WinesDebutante McLaren Shiraz 2009 First Cut McLaren Dayspring Clare Dayspring ClareVale Shiraz 2010 Subdued earthy fruit Vale Shiraz 2009 Valley Shiraz 2009 Valley Shiraz 2006Lovely fresh lively well- cake-like aromas and Pepper and spice on Ripe slightly porty nose; Elegant style with amade red with big rich complex spicy fruit the nose and lots of a touch of licorice. Big complex earthy bouquetberry fruit and good acid flavours. $13.99 berries. Very rich and and fleshy in the mouth showing a spearmintbackbone. $19 pretty palate. The wine with lovely juicy sweet edge. Palate offers a will develop more fruit flavours and good mouthful of beautifully complexity in time use of oak. A different integrated fruit/oak predicted one judge. $18 style. $18 flavours and powdery tannins. 5+ $16 Issue 118 | July/August 2011Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care isPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, butManaging Editor the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Printing DAI Rubicon arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.distalliance.comAdministrationVicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. WINESTATE is published seven times a year by Telephone (08) 8357 9277Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Facsimile (08) 8357 9212Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. E-mail [email protected] Copyright 2011 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. Website www.winestate.com.auPeter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied,Tasting Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to anySteve Dean E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER
Ri c h ard. . .Richard Hamilton Lot 148 Merlot... the perfect dinner guest. Cnr Main & Johnston Rds, McLaren Vale SA 5171 p: 08 8323 8830 | e: [email protected] w: www.leconfieldwines.com
how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example, we willWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more have a winemaker judge from that regionprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other because that person knows the local style.class being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 97
wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts a short time, received strong support and Cracka expects stocks to move quickly LANGTON’S WINE CRACKA WINES at good prices. Similarly, the likes of the AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (MAY REPORT) highly rated Taltarni Heathcote Shiraz, Blue June 28-July 5 (Melbourne) Since Cracka Wines first opened for Pyrenees Reserve Shiraz and Penfolds Bin - entries close June 16 business in September 2010, its auction 28 Kalimna have also performed well. July 5-12 (Sydney) sales have steadily grown, with March and - entries close June 23 April 2011 proving to be particularly strong Some premium wine vendors used July 12-19 (Melbourne) and well above expectation. The average Cracka Wines over March and April to sell - entries close June 30 price for wines sold in Cracka auctions has off older vintages of Penfolds Grange and July 19 - 26 (Sydney) grown month on month and is now pushing Clarendon Hills Astralis. Some exceptional - entries close July 7 over $16 per bottle, providing better returns prices have been realised, particularly July 26 - August 2 for vendors than seen through other similar for Grange - with the ’92 recently selling (Melbourne) - entries close July 14 channels, plus exceptional wines for clients for $390, with no additional commission August 2 – 9 at discounted prices. payable. Small parcels of aged Sally’s (Sydney) - entries close July 21 Paddock, Tim Knappstein, Xanadu, Katnook August 9 – 16 March and April saw a continuation of Estate and Hewitson were also highly (Melbourne) - entries close July 28 client interest for classic Australian wine sought after. Cracka Wines is negotiating August 16 – 23 regions and grape varieties, particularly with a range of other vendors to secure (Sydney) - entries close August 4 at higher price points. The interest in significant volumes of imported and local August 23 – 30 the John Duval Songlines Bylines Shiraz stocks which it expects to list soon. In the (Melbourne) - entries close August 11 has remained high, with regular sales of meantime, there are still opportunities for August 30 – September 6 over 20 dozen per auction, during which prospective vendors to list vintage wines (Sydney) - entries close August 18 time bidders were willing to pay between in upcoming auctions. $14.95 and $24.45 per bottle for a wine STERLING WINE which retails for $65. Unfortunately, For white wine sales the power of AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE Cracka’s stocks of this wine are now sauvignon blanc, particularly from July 1-13 exhausted but that, in turn, has seen Marlborough, continues to be illustrated by (consignment deadline June 27) a large growth in interest for the Wise the strong performance of various wines. July 29-August 10 Wines Margaret River Reserve Shiraz and The 2010 Oyster Bay is a regular seller (consignment deadline July 25) Reserve Chardonnay, as well as the Star but a newcomer from the 2010 vintage September 2-14 Lane Beechworth Shiraz and Merlot. All trumped it, with sales of Honeymoon Bay (consignment deadline August 29) four of these impressive wines have, in Sauvignon Blanc peaking at 45 cases in a single auction. Riesling and chardonnay are ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS also continuing to perform well, illustrating Monthly live online auctions - visit their importance for consumers of fine www.oddbins.com.au for dates Australian wine. GRAYSONLINE As part of its continual website evolution, Daily wine auctions (featuring a Cracka Wines has implemented some range of red and white wines and changes to keep its clients better informed region- and country-specific sales) about its product range as well as their bidding activity. Vendors can now set CRACKA WINES automatic reminders for products which Live wine auctions every day at 1pm interest them so that each time a particular on weekdays and 8pm on weekends wine is offered, they are emailed both when the wine in question is first offered LIQUID ASSET FINE WINE and just before the auction. Customers can AUCTIONS also look at their complete bidding history, Fortnightly online auctions as well as how much they have saved off - from Thursday 8pm to Tuesday recommended prices for all purchases from 8pm. To register for notifications go Cracka Wines. to www.liquidasset.co.nz/register. Cracka Wines conduct live auctions (All dates subject to change, every day at 1pm on weekdays and 8pm without notice) on weekends. For more information, visit www.crackawines.com.au or email [email protected]. *All quoted prices are per bottle, with no buyer’s premium applicable.98 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011
wine investment & collectingSTERLING WINE records almost every day, and Chateau Edinburgh International 1879-1979AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE Lafite Rothschild remains the hottest Centenary Special Reserve Scotch Malt(MAY REPORT) name in wine investment. Whisky in a crystal decanter. What isThe wine auction scene is taunted by the this worth? Well, find another and telltwin extremes of a rampant dollar and “Like so many ‘too good to be true’ me. The lucky buyer who paid over $200retail wine dumping on an unprecedented stories, beware of the facts being might need a pair!”scale. As the $A pushes up well beyond conveniently spread around to suitparity, imported premium wines - including vested interests,” says Lynton. “A few The value of aged Yalumba Racehorseback vintages - are becoming more hundred ‘super rich’ are driving the Ports is a subject which keeps Lyntoncommon in the collector’s cellar. auction scene and doting on a tiny number busy in conversation with dozens of their of super wines and vintages. Throw in a owners almost every other day. “Yes, “Rare champagnes and Italian barolos, celebrity selling his cellar and the brew they were valuable 20 years ago - butonce the preserve of the trans-Atlantic starts to boil. The China wine world is they’re not valuable now,” he says. “IGatsby set, are finding the huge $A huge and immensely valuable. My take can’t explain why, other than to say theirresistible!” says Sterling’s managing is that 95 per cent is low-end - which demand is not there any more and pricesdirector, Lynton Barber. “The bottom will be taken up by Chinese domestic have fallen. Buy Yalumba racehorseend of the wine market is a paradise production over the next five years. ports just for fun or to drink a very smartfor the generic wine lover. The big retail But, don’t underestimate the size of the fortified. Our May catalogue sold a set ofchains have achieved a time-warping remaining 5 per cent and - even more five different vintages - 1976 to 1980 - formove away from brands and image and importantly - don’t ever underestimate the just on $15 a bottle.”are moving monster volumes of ‘good competition: wineries all over the world,enough’ bottled wine at $A2 and below. chasing that 5 per cent.” The ‘unopened box’ story is a pot-boilerWhile the serious wine drinkers will with lots of interest and questions.never admit their consumption of ‘carafe Recent Sterling wine auctions have When an unopened box is catalogued,wine’ is a new budget measure, many featured some bargains and stories Sterling sets up a fair contest by offeringcanny wine lovers are using the savings worth sharing. each bottle from ‘an unopened case’ -on day-to-day drinking to buy a trophy meaning potential buyers can purchasefor occasions.” “Sterling is a bit like the fabled secret one bottle or buy the lot and get the elephant burial grounds,” says Lynton. box. Recent Sterling auctions have seen Lynton says the “vortex of wine “The tusks and bones of the great rogues unopened boxes of Mount Mary Quintetmadness” is still centred in Hong Kong of the past are respectfully carried to and Rockford Basket Press attract- with every bottle of premium Bordeaux, Sterling for appropriate memorial. Grand serious interest.particularly first growths, being fought old commemorative bottles of whiskyover to the death of common sense. are the most dramatic of the past rogues “It’s hard to please everyone,”Breathtaking prices are being set as new and the May Sterling catalogue carried says Lynton. “Some buyers insist a good example - an Aberlour Glenlivet on ‘unopened’ meaning just that.Australia’s newest and most exciting wine auction house with leading brands at up to 80% off RRP Daily wine auctions Premium and clearance wineswww.crackawines.com.au “The only way to buy wine online” July/August 2011 W I N E S TAT E 99
wine investment & collectingOn another note, vintage blindness is The 1998 Martinborough Reserve Pinot ($905), Chateau Figeac ($255), Chateaua problem for some and a blessing to Noir achieved a record $380 (the previous Gruaud Larose ($138), Chateau Latour-others. My favourite value vintage from price was $103) at Langton’s April a-Pomerol, Pomerol ($190), ChateauSouth Australia is 2001 - a sleeper which 19 auction in Sydney. This result was Leoville-Barton, 2me cru classe, St-Julienhas bloomed and missed the focus of the largely due to an article placed by an LA ($212) and a magnum of Chateau Pichonfat wallet set.” Restaurant ranking the world’s best 20 Lalande ($494). pinot noirs and putting the Martinborough Sterling’s May catalogue featured a in top spot. Wine provenance remains an importantstring of 2001 Australian stars, including issue. While rarity and ‘must-have’Balnaves of Coonawarra The Tally Other highlights during April included vintages can propel prices beyondReserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Devil’s $4026 for a 1955 Grange (last price expectations, wines not in mint conditionLair Cabernet, Elderton Command Shiraz, $3187); $978 for a 1971 Grange (last can depress potential price realisations.Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, Houghton price $750); $347 for a ’98 Penfolds Results for Grange and Hill of GraceGladstones Cabernet Sauvignon, 707 (last price $246); $1696 for a 1989 illustrate this point extremely well.Houghton Jack Mann Cabernet Blend Haut Brion (last price $1351); $1022 for(Great Southern), Majella The Malleea a 1985 Chateau Lafite Rothschild (last As always, the balance between supplyCabernet Shiraz, Moss Wood Cabernet price $633); $874 for a 1955 Wynns and demand is a critical feature of theSauvignon, Mount Mary Quintet Claret (last price $230) and $1150 for a auction market. Generally, stock flowsCabernets and Penfolds RWT Shiraz. 1965 Lindemans 3110. of Australian and imported blue-chip wine are down, however buyer demand Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange Rare Australian vintages, once is strong, with a 20 per cent increaseconduct live online auctions every disregarded as being old-fashioned in participation on April 2010. While amonth. For more information, visit www. commercial wines with little interest, growing number of vendor reserves aresterlingwine.com.au. have been rediscovered by the market. affecting clearance rates, the average Strong demand had moved up prices buyer basket spend was up by 11 per centLANGTONS FINE WINE AUCTIONS for these old darlings significantly over on the same time last year.(APRIL REPORT) the previous six to 12 months. A bottleThe auction market during April was of 1971 Seppelt Dorrien fetched an A comprehensive database of priceunpredictable. Over 13,800 lots - extraordinary $172. realizations can be found on www.comprising a broad range of rare, ultra- langtons.com.au.fine Australian and imported wine - were Top vintages of Bordeaux, Burgundyoffered by Langtons throughout the and Champagne are also selling ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONSperiod, between Melbourne and Sydney. extremely well, suggesting there is some (APRIL REPORT) froth in this market. Demand for 2005 A new era has rung in at Oddbins Wine Overall, prices achieved for blue chip Bordeaux is spiking results. Highlights Auctions, with the company now operatingbrands from great vintages were strong. per bottle include Chateau Margaux its auctions fully live online. The shift took Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What100 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2011
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