Winestate Magazine September October 2010

varietal tastingPepper Tree Leasingham Jam Monichino Shiraz Bleasdale Swings &Wrattonbully Shiraz Shed Clare Valley 2008 HHH Bremerview Roundabouts2008 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Fresh licorice and Langhorne Creek Margaret RiverHints of lavender and Deep-purple wine spice on the nose, Shiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHHsour cherries on the with Black Forest cake and chocolaty/tarry Earthy, Ribena nose and Another big shiraz style,nose, and some slightly aromas and intense palate with hints of well-structured, youthful, full of sweet red fruit,greener herbal fruit stewed rhubarb and ripe strawberries. $16 licorice/tar palate. Needs chocolaty oak and dryingflavours. $18 blackberry flavours. $19 Rosedale Wines Cat time. tannins. $19Taylors Clare Valley The Wine Society Amongst the Pigeons 3-5 $18 Madeleines NangkitaShiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Very Old Vines Barossa Valley Shiraz Single VineyardOaky nose and ripe, berry- Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHH d’Arenberg Southern Fleurieuflavoured palate with 2008 HHH1/2 Straightforward, rich, The Footbolt Shiraz 2008 HHHsmoky oak and chocolaty Big, powerful shiraz young wine that’s a mix McLaren Vale Sweet plum nose withcomplexity. Some with intense varietal fruit of licorice allsorts and Shiraz 2008 HHH some green herbalexcellent tannins. $18 characters - a touch sweet berry jam characters. $17 Bold, ripe blackberry nuances. Sweet berry and ripe and with lovely Neil Hahn Yanyarrie and mulberry type of flavours and tannins toSt Hallett Faith soft mouthfeel. $18.99 Barossa Valley fruit flavours. Tannins support. $19.90Barossa Shiraz Sevenhill Inigo Shiraz 2008 HHH are chalky but not Yalumba2008 HHH1/2 Clare Valley Shiraz Vanillin and mint aromas, excessively. $18 Patchwork BarossaAssertive wine with 2008 HHH1/2 followed by slightly tart Shiraz 2008 HHHloads of ripe berry fruit, Monster that needs varietal flavours showing DogRidge The Simple blackcurrantbalancing chocolaty oak more time. Delightful a spicy lift. $17.95 Pup McLaren Vale bouquet. Nice softnessand attractive leathery blackberry and aniseed Heartland Langhorne Creek to the vibrant palate.development. $19 characters with plenty of Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2008 HHH Has complexity and acid and tannins. $19 Limestone Coast Lifted, leathery, red structure. $19.95 Prince Hill Wines Shiraz 2008 HHH berry nose. More of Moppity Vineyards Acrobat Shiraz Ripe, jammy fruit nose the same on the palate, Hilltops Shiraz 2008 HHH and assertive grippy with very grippy tannins. 2008 HHH Simple, well-balanced, tannic palate with stewed Time! $18 Lovely complexity of minty style of shiraz fruit flavours. $17.99 ripe fruit, sweet oak with some attractive James Oatley Grant Burge Barossa and savoury tannins sour cherry notes. $15 Tic Tok Frankland Shiraz 2008 HHH with some leathery Four Sisters Shiraz River Mudgee Lovely jammy fruit notes. $19.99 2008 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz intensity, with the oak Truffle Hill Red berry, vanilla and 2008 HHH starting to integrate Pemberton Shiraz menthol aromas lift Big wine with spicy, seamlessly. 3-5 $18 2008 HHH out of the glass. floral bouquet and bold Funky blackcurrant Round and flavoursome fruit palate; traces of Peter Lehmann bouquet and blueberry palate. $15.65 fresh licorice. $17.99 Art Series Barossa palate with underlying Griffin No 2 McPherson Basilisk Shiraz 2008 HHH green notes and Adelaide Hills Shiraz Central Victoria Flavoursome concoction assertive tannins. $19.99 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHH of plums, licorice, Herbal, minty and Sour cherry aromas blackcurrants, spices chocolaty wine mingle with spices. and butterscotch. $18 with mushroom-like Simple varietal fruit development and an palate with moderate Trevor Jones oaky end. $16 tannins. $17.99 Boots Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHH Inky, blackcurrant aromas and a warming, spicy raspberry fruit palate with silky-smooth tannins. $18Susanne Bell Mark Lloyd DAY 4 - JUDGESSenior winemaker/manager Proprietor andfor Stonehaven Winery at winemaker for Coriole. Greg TilbrookPadthaway. Her previous More than 25 years’ Senior winemaker Watsonwinemaking experience experience in the wine Wine Group. Formeris extensive with work at industry. Associate judge winemaker at WynnsLindemans, Seppelt and at the Adelaide Wine Coonawarra winery for thePenfolds wineries. She is Show. Member of Olive past five years. Previouslyalso on the panel responsible Oil Assessment Panel. winemaker at Amberleyfor the making of Hardy’s Estate, Margaret River for sixEileen Hardy range. years. Completed a vintage in Languedoc, France. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 101

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E VSHIRAZ/SYRAH Morris Shiraz Madeleines Nangkita2007 & OLDER 2006 HHHH Single Vineyard$15 - $20 Subtle, lifted, stewed fruit Southern Fleurieu aromas matched against Shiraz 2007 HHH1/231 TASTED toasty oak. Creamy oak Smells of maraschino24 AWARDED on palate, fused with red cherries with some fruits and some drying licorice. Rich, full-Solid class with a good tannins. $17.99 bodied, tannic palatemix of styles. “Lots of with good flavourelegant wines, while there Virgara Wines depth and persistence.were others with strong Stone Chapeloak characters,” said one Adelaide Plains 5+ $19.90judge. “Many were either Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Baker’s Springsat their peak and ready for Aromas in the riper Woolshedsdrinking now or showing spectrum, with a hint Gilbert Valleyage development.” of age. Long, luscious, Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 earthy palate, slightly Earthy/cassis nose with grainy tannins and good a hint of age and savoury acidity. $15 notes. Complex, creamy, prune-like palate with Totino Estate Aldi Stores Orlando Wines raisined notes. $15 Adelaide Hills Shiraz Blackstone Gramps Barossa Koonara Angel’s 2007 HHHH Paddock Premium Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Peak Coonawarra Black fruit bouquet with McLaren Vale Full, fleshy wine, with Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 a lifted, oaky note and Shiraz 2006 HHHH bright colour, dusty oak Quite a mature nose nice earthy complexity. Fresh blackberries and and jubey fruit nose, with subtle violet Oak dominates palate spices lift off the nose and good fruit weight overtones, and a simple, for now but there’s with a subtle toasty oak on a palate with oak light and delicate mocha/ firm fruit underneath. note. Gentle, fragrant complexity. $16.99 prune-like palate. $15.95 and light-bodied black Richmond Grove 3-5 $18.95 fruit palate with fresh Jacob’s Creek Limited Release Madeleines Willunga acidity. $19.99 Reserve South Barossa Vineyards Single Vineyard Australia Shiraz Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Nose shows layers of 2007 HHHH Dark berry bouquet tar, leather and dark Big zingy/racy wine with delicate florals cherries. Savoury brimming over with underneath. Nice varietal edge to a palate with flavour derived from fruit flavours with firm good fruit presence. the lovely cherry-like tannins. 3-5 $17.99 Astringent. $19.99 fruit and vanillin oak and Taltarni T Series supported by ripe tannins. Kilikanoon Victoria Shiraz Killerman’s Run 2007 HHH 3-5 $19.90 South Australia Lifted dark fruit bouquet; Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 some age. Generous, Lifted plum aromas fleshy palate with goodBrothers in Arms with licorice/chocolate flavour persistence. $15No 6 Langhorne underneath and Fox GordonCreek Shiraz lingering fruit/oak Eight Uncles2007 HHHH flavours on a crisp Barossa Valley palate. 3-5 $18 Shiraz 2007 HHHMixed berry aromas, Red cherry aromas withspices and floral hints; some citrus. Bright,quite Rhone-like. Lovely Lobethal Road simple palate with Adelaide Hills Shiraz slight rhubarb flavours.silky-smooth, chocolaty 2007 HHH1/2palate with seamlessly 3-5 $19.95integrated oak and dark Bright, lifted cassis nose Nardone Baker and firm, light-bodied Treeview Shirazfruits. 3-5 $19 palate with a seamless 2006 HHH Whiff of smoky/ balance of fruit and fine toasty oak. Simple tannins. 3-5 $18 medium-bodied palate projecting redcurrants Whitebox Heathcote Wild Oats South and licorice. $18 Shiraz 2007 HHHH Australia Shiraz Lovely concentration of 2007 HHH1/2 mulberry, creme caramel Interesting earthy/ and bitter chocolate chocolaty/violet aromas aromas, which are with a hint of pepper, echoed on the persistent followed by a pretty, palate. Ripe, tannic silky-smooth, floral finish. 3-5 $19.50 palate. $18.99102 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tastingNardone Baker SHIRAZ/SYRAH Wolf Blass Gold Sandhurst Ridge Wolf Blass GoldBlaxland’s Legacy BLENDS Label Adelaide Hills Fringe Bendigo Label Barossa ShirazShiraz 2006 HHH $20 - $25 Shiraz Viognier Shiraz Cabernet 2008 HHHH1/2Traces of cherries, 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH Dense, almost black,chocolate and violets on 15 TASTED Slightly candied, bright Simple red fruit, bath salt wine with bright blackthe nose, and a balanced, 10 AWARDED fruit bouquet, followed and flowery aromatics. fruit aromas verging onlightweight palate. $18 Mixed bag, with some by a light and silky- Pretty cherry flavours fill prune-like, with a dashNardone Baker fresh and lively wines smooth palate with the mouth. $22 of boot polish. PalateWarra Manta Shiraz from the ‘08 vintage loads of black fruit rich and flavoursome2006 HHH but the older wines are flavours and a long, Wirra Wirra Catapult and has lingering,Complex, developed fading fast. lingering finish. $24.99 McLaren Vale Shiraz powdery tannins. $24.99aromas and well-made, Claymore Wines Viognier 2008 HHHlong and luscious palate Fox Creek JSM Walk on the Wild Earthy/chocolaty bouquet. Leconfieldwith an acidic end. $18 McLaren Vale Shiraz Side Clare Valley Soft black fruit/licorice McLaren Vale ShirazNardone Baker Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Viognier palate with lingering 2008 HHHH1/2South Australia Cabernet Franc 2008 HHH1/2 flavour length. $22 Delightful aromas ofShiraz 2006 HHH 2008 HHHH Big, grippy wine. Spicy/ blackcurrant and briarySpicy nose with leathery Fusion of malty, red mocha nose and long, Barossa Valley Estate fruit with a hint of mintage. Simple well fruit aromas threaded lingering, astringent and E Bass Barossa Valley and spices and somebalanced palate with ripe with cherries. Palate savoury palate with good Shiraz Tempranillo savouriness. Denselygrainy tannins. $18 has nice weight and tannic backbone. $20 2005 HHH flavoured palate rich withBaker’s Springs length and is packed Angullong Smells of licorice fruit. Very good weightWoolsheds with warm, rich and Fossil Hill Orange and prunes and has and length. $24.95Gilbert Valley earthy flavours. $22.50 Shiraz Viognier rich, aged flavours Twisted GumShiraz 2005 HHH 2008 HHH1/2 with a smooth tannic Granite Belt ShirazMature leathery/iodine Pleasant headful of backbone. $20 2009 HHHHtype of aromas and leathery/earthy aromas, Rustic, smoky nosenicely aged, Christmas followed by a rich, SHIRAZ/SYRAH with subtle chocolatecake flavours. $15 flavoursome, savoury, $20 - $25 complexity. Firm,The Growers prune-like palate. $22 fragrant palate with darkMuseum Release Frog Belly Margaret 94 TASTED cherries integrated withBlackwood Valley River Shiraz 62 AWARDED cedary oak and mediumShiraz 2004 HHH Cabernet 2009 HHH tannin weight. $22Nose quite earthy with Lifted aromas of berries The ‘09s were still fresh.soy touches. Chocolaty and flowers, with a The ‘08s offered a rangepalate with pleasant, fresh, flavoursome, of styles: greener/coolfunky characters. $15 jubey fruit palate. $20 climate to chocolaty. Twisted Gum The ‘07s were a softer, Granite Belt Shiraz savoury experience. Cabernet Sauvignon In the ‘06s the judges 2008 HHH saw “soft, round, ripe Pleasant, malty, plum fruit”. The older redcurrant nose and full, wines are beginning to flavoursome, fleshy fruit show their age. palate. $20 Wyndham Estate George Wyndham Shiraz Grenache 2008 HHH Fragrant, lifted, floral nose and firm, tannic palate with good flavour profile. $21Peter Douglas Bill Hardy DAY 5 - JUDGESWinemaker for Koonara Corporate oenologist forWines. Formerly BRL Hardy Ltd. 28 years’ Steve Lienertchief winemaker for winemaking experience in Penfolds seniorWynns Coonawarra. A places such as McLaren Vale, winemaker atBachelor of Agricultural Western Australia and France. Nuriootpa, and hasScience in Oenology, Has judged internationally been winemaking therehe has completed more (France and Japan), and been for over 30 years. Hasthan 20 vintages. Peter an associate or senior judge at vintaged in California andhas been an associate more than 20 state and regional judged as an associatejudge at the Griffith and wine shows in Australia. at the Canberra NationalCanberra wine shows. Wine Show. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 103

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E V Squawking Magpie Fernfield Wines Thomson Estate The Chatterer Pridmore Eden Valley Clare Valley Shiraz Gimblett Gravels Shiraz 2007 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Hawkes Bay Syrah Lifted, estery, briary nose Red fruit bouquet with 2009 HHHH with some tarry notes. boot polish-like characters. Subtle aromas of Very fresh, vibrant palate. Lovely complexity of red prunes, blackberry Nice weight of briary fruit, fruit and milk chocolate and malt. Big, ripe with traces of light mint flavours. $20 palate with rhubarb-like and soft tannins. $20 Yarrawood Tall flavours supported by Poverty Hill Wines Tales Yarra Valley fine acid and ‘squeaky’ Eden Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 tannins. $24.95 2007 HHHH Racy, youthful red fruit Fragrant nose showing zing to the nose, followed Naked Run BWC hints of lavender and by a fresh, fleshy palate Barossa Valley potpourri. Grainy palate showing good oak Shiraz 2008 HHHH with lively violet and complexity. $20.50 Nice lavender lift to the raspberry flavours and a Pertaringa nose. Tastes of fruit long, lingering finish. $24 Undercover cake and raisins, well Hollick Wrattonbully McLaren Vale Shiraz integrated with the Shiraz 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 savoury oak. Big, ripe, Dark, brooding, briary Dark, licoricey nose with tannic finish. $24.99 bouquet, and firm, a hint of mint, followed gravelly palate tasting of by bright blue fruitMaximus Premium Windows Estate Cahillton Heathcote raspberry lollies and well flavours and showingMcLaren Vale Shiraz Margaret River Shiraz 2007 HHHH balanced by oak, tannins good level of acidity. $222008 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH Fruity, fleshy style and acidity. $24 CoonawarraRich shiraz full of Lovely nose smells with aromas and Watershed Senses Premium VineyardsChristmas cake-like fruit like forest fruit, with flavours of redcurrants Margaret River Coonawarra Shirazcharacters. Nice lift of oak more earthy, forest-like and plums with some Shiraz 2007 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2on the nose. Big palate characters on the palate apricot-like notes and Intense chocolaty Rich and fruity on thewith oak flavours verging and showing traces of nice level of ripe tannins nose with nice dash nose, with subtle hint ofon mocha. $24.99 pine needles. Crisp acid to support. $22.50 of mulberries. Full and oak. Tastes of rhubarb spine. $24 Koonara fleshy in the mouth, and red fruit, verging on The Seductress with good persistence cranberry. $22.99Robert Oatley Wyndham Estate Coonawarra Shiraz of blue fruit flavours and Griffin No 1Frankland River George Wyndham 2006 HHHH crisp acid. $24.95 Adelaide Hills ShirazMudgee Shiraz Shiraz 2007 HHHH Bright nose for a four- Were Estate 2008 HHH1/22008 HHHH Fresh and estery floral, year-old wine, with nice Margaret River Full-bodied fleshy styleSubtle aromas like rosehip and lavender floral nuances. Fragrant Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 that’s a tasty concoctionblueberry conserve. aromas. Big, creamy palate with good acidity Bright, lifted, raspberry of dark cherries, toastyFinely layered cassis, palate with nice blue and nice tannins with pastille-like aromas. oak and chocolate, withcinnamon, plum and fruits, firm tannins and a mature aged notes. $20 Tarry, concentrated some licorice. $23blackberry characters on long, drying finish. $21 flavours with good Bunnamagoo Estatethe palate. Good food length and viscosity. $22 Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2wine. $24.99 Henley Hill Nose has a lovely Yarra Valley Shiraz fragrant lift of spices 2008 HHH1/2 and redcurrants. More Nose a real spice box. savoury notes on the Palate fleshy, flavoursome palate, with some dried and complex, with a fruit characters. $23.95 lovely silky-smooth Rosenvale Vineyards mouthfeel. $20 Estate Barossa Millamolong 56 Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Miles Orange Shiraz Blend of toasty oak 2008 HHH1/2 and mulberry aromas. Bright, youthful colour, Well-balanced palate plum fruit aromas and with lingering blue fruit fresh, fragrant, redcurrant freshness and grainy palate with oak and tannins. $24 tannins in harmony. $20 Sidewood Reserve Mr Riggs The Gaffer Adelaide Hills Syrah McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 2008 HHH1/2 Simple varietal fruit on Aromas in the ripe end of the nose, with hints of the fruit spectrum, and licorice and plum pudding nice length of rich fruit adding complexity. cake-like flavours. $22 Similar palate. $24104 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tastingHugh Hamilton The Wyndham Estate Fermoy Estate Squawking Magpie Schiller VineyardsRascal McLaren Vale Vineyard Selection Margaret River The Chatterer Barossa ShirazShiraz 2008 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH Gimblett Gravels 2007 HHHSpicy/earthy/mulberry 2006 HHH1/2 Red berry aromas Hawkes Bay Syrah Smells leathery with spicybouquet and nicely Tarry/licorice nose with complemented by 2008 HHH nuances. Balanced palatelayered palate tasting a dash of spice. Rich, floral/spicy notes. Good Youthful, lifted, fragrant of molasses, chocolateof brooding fruits and well-textured palate has fruit palate with grainy bouquet and fresh, and rhubarb. $20dried plums. Firm long, lingering flavours tannins. $22 floral palate with bright Blackbillytannins. $24.50 and soft tannins. $20 Morgan Simpson acid. $24.95 McLaren Vale Shiraz Hentley Farm Basket Press Wild Rock Angels 2007 HHHPauletts Caretaker Barossa McLaren Vale Shiraz Dust Hawkes Bay Quite a gamey/meatyPolish Hill River Valley Shiraz 2008 HHH Syrah 2008 HHH nose. Palate smooth andShiraz 2006 HHH1/2 2009 HHH Smells of caramelised The nose is spicy and sweet, with grainy tannins.Spicy, chocolaty bouquet Simple, estery, jubey fruit. Full and fleshy in fragrant, while the palate “It has poise.” $22and ripe, fleshy palate fruit nose and rich, silky the mouth, with sweet, is long, fleshy and quite Griffin No 1with a touch of leather palate with luscious fruit ripe fruit. $22 Rhone-like. $24.95 Adelaide Hills Shirazand some savoury and nice tannins. $20 Shaw Vineyard Guichen Bay 2007 HHHtannins. Finishes dry. $22 Climbing Orange Estate Premium Vineyards Mount Earthy nose with floralEm’s Table Shiraz 2009 HHH Canberra Shiraz Benson Shiraz overtones. Medium-Premium Organic Subdued nose with a 2008 HHH 2007 HHH bodied palate. NiceMt Lofty Ranges licorice background. Spicy, peppery, rhubarb Savoury aromas with a white pepper and suppleShiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Long, fragrant, floral aromas, and briary fruit spicy lift. Rich, earthy tannins. $22Nice briary fruit and black palate with powdery palate showing earthy palate; almost molasses- Coonawarraolive aromas with savoury tannins. $21.99 complexity. $22 like flavours. $20 Premium Vineyardstouches. Firm, tannic Chateau Tanunda Hugo McLaren Vale James Haselgrove Coonawarra Shirazpalate has good flavour Grand Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHH Wines McLaren Vale 2007 HHHconcentration. $24.95 Shiraz 2008 HHH Restrained, complex Shiraz 2004 HHH Fresh, floral and tarryWater Wheel Bendigo Very spicy nose showing nose, with mocha and Aged, leathery nose but licorice aromas. GoodShiraz 2008 HHH1/2 a touch of vanilla. Fleshy licorice evident on the there’s a delicate lift of persistence of fruit-Tarry/leathery nose with blue fruits and chocolate palate. Soft on the lavender florals. Light- driven flavours. $22.99floral nuances. Smooth, on the palate. $20 finish. $23 bodied palate with nice Wehl’s Mountluscious fruit palate; a Pieri Occasione Pirathon by Kalleske acid. $20 Benson Vineyardstad raisined and with Shiraz 2008 HHH Barossa Valley Wyndham Estate Shiraz 2007 HHHoaky complexity. $20 Slight floral tones to the Shiraz 2008 HHH Vineyard Selection Dusty, leathery nose and nose. Smooth, lingering Complex, spicy bouquet Hunter Valley Shiraz full, ripe, fleshy, prune- palate. Good weight of with blue fruits and oak 2007 HHH like palate with long, fruit flavours. $20 and a flavoursome, fruity Bright, lifted berry tannic finish. $24 Vinrock McLaren palate. $23 bouquet. Rhone-like Shingleback Vale Shiraz Cape Barren Native palate with some licorice McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH Goose McLaren Vale and a crisp finish. $20 2007 HHH Nicely balanced wine Shiraz 2008 HHH Harrington Glen Briary nose with green with creamy coconut Restrained dried Estate Granite Belt bean complexity, followed oak, good varietal fruit plum nose and firm, Shiraz 2007 HHH by a long, sweet, red fruit and soft tannins. $20 richly layered palate Rustic, earthy nose with palate. $24.95 Crabtree Hilltop with Christmas cake hints of violets. Medium- Barossa Valley Watervale Clare flavours. $24.95 bodied palate; nice Estate E Bass Valley Shiraz Forester Estate savoury oak tannins. $20 Barossa Valley 2008 HHH Margaret River Shiraz 2006 HHH Developed mocha Shiraz 2007 HHH Mocha bouquet with bouquet and ripe, fruit Slightly earthy nose with bacon fat-like edge. Slightly cake-like flavours. Good florals underneath. Light, sweet palate developing oak complexity. $22 simple, red fruit palate complexity. $20 with drying tannins. $20 DAY 6 - JUDGESLouisa Rose Nigel Dolan Phil Reedman MWChief winemaker for Chief winemaker for Master of Wine. Wine andYalumba Wines with Wyndham Estate Wines. retail industry consultant.seventeen vintages Formerly group red Formerly productcompleted. Regular winemaker for the Fosters development manager ofsenior judge on the Wine Group and Saltram Tesco stores, responsible forcapital city wine show chief winemaker. Previously Australia, New Zealand andcircuit, including chair senior winemaker and South America. Has judgingof the Royal Perth manager at Seppelt Wines. experience in the Riverland,Wine Show in 2009. 10 years’ experience as Adelaide Hills and McLaren senior judge with national Vale wine shows. and regional wine shows. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 105

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E VWyndham Estate Chalice BridgeVineyard Selection Margaret RiverCoonawarra Shiraz Shiraz Cabernet2006 HHH Sauvignon 2007 HHHWarm, chocolaty wine Menthol lift to thewith estery/spicy nose, smoky/peat nose. Light,complex flavours and green bean palate withsupple tannins. $20 more of those mintyAramis Vineyards notes. $25.95Black LabelMcLaren Vale Shiraz SHIRAZ/SYRAH2006 HHH 2009/2008Deep red wine with a $25 - $30rustic nose, well-balanced,savoury palate and grainy 63 TASTEDtannins. $24.99 35 AWARDEDThomas Vineyard Pepper Tree Bimbadgen MCA “Definitely a step up,” Claymore WinesEstate McLaren Vale The Pebbles Limited Art Series Pyrenees said the judges. The good Dark Side of theShiraz 2005 HHH Release Wrattonbully McLaren Vale wines here show fruit Moon Clare ValleySubtle aged notes to Shiraz Viognier Hilltops Shiraz depth and purity with Shiraz 2008 HHHHHthe spicy nose, and fruit 2008 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon ‘sensible’ oak. Ironically, Brooding nose withcake-like flavours. Good Lovely rush of mulberry 2008 HHHH difficult financial times a slight earthiness,food wine. $24.99 aromas verging on Red berry nose may be producing better followed by a voluptuous, blackberry; quite estery, delicately edged with wines where oak no spicy berry palate, layeredYilgarnia Denmark with a suggestion of violets. Lovely fruit longer dominates. and rich, with firm tanninShiraz 2007 HHH lavender and spices. cake-like complexity structure. Lovely, well-Rustic, earthy nose and Very attractive, fragrant to the palate; very She-Oak Hill Estate made, old-fashioned stylefleshy palate with savoury palate. Excellent length flavoursome, with chalky Heathcote Shiraz of shiraz. $25characters mixing with of fruit and acidity with tannins to support. $25 2008 HHHHH Earthworks Gypsysweet fruit. $24 nice tannins. $25 Jarrah Ridge Stunning white/black Black Barossa Valley Mollydooker Two Wines Reserve pepper aromas with a Shiraz 2008 HHHHHSHIRAZ/SYRAH Left Feet South Chittering Perth generous dash of spice. Excellent classic styleBLENDS Australia Shiraz Hills Shiraz Viognier Palate offers a seamless of shiraz that will age$25 - $30 Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 balance of serious oak beautifully. Lifted Merlot 2009 HHHH Brooding, estery fruit with vibrant, fleshy fruit blackcurrant aromas10 TASTED Estery aromas, quite nose with subtle oak and sensible level of and complex layering8 AWARDED primary and jubey. influence. Quite a alcohol. $25 of varietal fruit and oak Lovely rich, sweet, new- youthful, astringent flavours. Great lengthSmall but strong class. age style of palate filled palate, crisp with fruit and soft finish. $28.95“Not many destined with complex prune/ flavours. $28for the long haul but mocha flavours. $25 McPhersonthey still offer very nice McKellar Ridge Chapter Threedrinking,”said one judge. Basket Press Central Victoria Canberra District Shiraz Viognier Shiraz Viognier 2008 HHH1/2 2008 HHHH Finer, fragrant style with Pleasing, malty/chocolaty layers of blackberry and bouquet with just a hint rhubarb fruit and toasty of mint. Long, lingering oak. Hints of pepper and palate full of berry flavours spices. $29.99 with some delightfully Western Range funky notes. $28 Wines Julimar Perth Hills Shiraz Viognier 2007 HHH1/2 Lifted mulberry aromas with a complexity of pears and quinces. Nice layers of fruit flavours and grainy, tannic finish. $25106 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tasting THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE MCLAREN VALEHaselgrove Stephen John DryBella Vigna Grown Clare ValleyPremium Selection Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2McLaren Vale Dark core of strong,Shiraz 2008 HHHHH ripe fruit aromas; niceDeep, brooding and expression of spices.intense wine. Gorgeous Fresh, lively and balancedfleshy/perfumed nose. palate with long, lingeringDense, ripe fruit palate varietal flavours and oakywith a firm, tannic overtones. $25backbone, good level of The Star of Greeceacid and clever use of oak. McLaren ValeA keeper. 5+ $25 Shiraz Winestate Magazine July/AugustDeep Woods Block 7 Paul Conti Oxenberry Wines are limited-productionMargaret River Shiraz Mariginiup Western wines hand-crafted by McLaren Vale2008 HHHH1/2 Australia ShirazOne for the lovers of 2008 HHHH born & bred winemakers, the Scarpantonicooler-climate shiraz. Earthy/licorice nose and brothers. Exclusively available directExcellent fruit cake-like lively, rich, layered, dark, from the historic site of McLaren Vale’saromas. Interesting vibrant fruit palate with first settlers, Oxenberry Farm.palate showing a lovely some complexity, andspicy edge and fabulous good quality oak in the 26-28 Kangarilla Roadflavour length. $28 background. $28 McLaren Vale SA 5171 TC-SCA10293 P: 08 8323 0188 E: [email protected] www.oxenberry.com September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 107

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E VMcGuigan Summerfield Crabtree Picnic Bent Road EstateThe Shortlist Pyrenees Central Hill Watervale Queensland ShirazBarossa Valley Victoria Shiraz Clare Valley Shiraz 2008 HHHShiraz 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 2008 HHH Old-school style withPowerful oak evident on “Would please many,” Tarry mocha nose with a leathery nose and rich,the nose but it’s been suggested one judge. perfumed lift. Oak evident dark fruit palate withwell handled. Firm, Lovely dark berry on the palate but there’s peppery overtones. $28feisty, tannic palate fruits and oak lovely fruit too. $25that’s varietally very sweetness matched by Grant Burge Chateau Tanundaexpressive with flavours the tannins. $25 Miamba Barossa The Chateau Barossathat linger forever! $25 Serafino Shiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Fleshy, spice-driven Smells like fruit pastilles.Pikkara 2008 HHH1/2 nose, with tight acid Lovely integration ofMcLaren Vale Shiraz Eucalyptus and spicy holding the fruit/oak fruit and oak flavours.2008 HHHH fruit on the nose. Good palate together. $25 Firm tannins. $28Moody licorice/ palate length with firm Hackersleybeetroot aromas and tannins. “A lovely, Ferguson Valley Meropsan exquisitely balanced, elegant wine,” said one Shiraz 2008 HHH Margaret Rivermedium-bodied palate judge. $26 Good ripe cherry fruit, Shiraz 2008 HHHshowing great length and Morambro Creek although it’s currently Classic varietal fruitpersistence of licorice Padthaway Shiraz masked by the acid and aromas; vibrant chocolatyflavours. 5+ $25 2008 HHH1/2 oak. Gritty tannins. $25 palate. Made for lovers Dense, brooding, Harcourt Valley of old-fashioned shiraz.Tenafeate Creek Feet First blackcurrant/coffee Barbara’s BendigoBasket Press One Frankland River bean aromas, and a Shiraz 2008 HHH 3-5 $28Tree Hill Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHHH rich, soft, rounded Sweet ‘fruit cake’ nose2008 HHHH Delicate whiff of and very flavoursome with bold fruit flavours and Heathcote WineryLovely creamy oak allspice aromas. Lots palate. $27.95 firm oak/acid spine. $25 Mail Coach Shirazbouquet with a core of of black olive and spice Jarrah Ridge Wines Nepenthe The Gate 2008 HHHfruit. Rich palate, great characters on the Reserve Chittering Block Adelaide Hills “A great thinking drink,”depth of fruit seamlessly palate, with a balancing Perth Hills Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH suggested one judge.integrated with some background of acid and 2008 HHH1/2 Intense spicy/sweet Delicate fruit and spicesbeautiful oak and spice tannin. $29.79 Slightly earthy berry bouquet and solid, and good oak. $28.50definition. $25 Celestial Bay characters to the spicy chunky/meaty palate. $25 Margaret River nose. Chunky, meaty Pepperjack Barossa SHIRAZ/SYRAHFerngrove Dragon Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 palate with good dry Shiraz 2008 HHH 2007Frankland River Good cool-climate style red flavours and firm Simple, lifted oak nose. $25 - $30Shiraz 2008 HHHH with strong, herbaceous tannins. $28 Full-bodied, voluptuousNose projects liqueur aromas and flavours Knotting Hill Christmas cake palate. 20 TASTEDcherry-like aromas. Great with lovely spicy Estate Vineyard Needs cheese! $26.99 10 AWARDEDvarietal fruit expression complexity. $25 Margaret River Seppelton the smooth, opulent Peter Lehmann Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Chalambar Victoria “These wines reflect apalate with lovely flavour Mudflat Barossa Delicate, subtle aromas Shiraz 2008 HHH drought year,” agreedprofile and plenty of Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 but has a big, bright Very drying, tannic style the judges. They don’tlength. $29.99 Simple dry red style with and fleshy varietal that will soften with age. have the depth and lifted berry compote nose fruit palate with nice Great core of spicy, ripe opulence of the ‘06s and long, spicy palate with cleansing acidity. $28 fruit and good oak. $26.99 and ‘08s. They are more some lovely oak. $25 Mollydooker Penna Lane Wines angular and savoury, Eldredge Vineyards The Boxer South Clare Valley Shiraz with the best offering Blue Chip Australia Shiraz 2008 HHH lovely drinking now or Clare Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH Licorice overtones on short-term cellaring. 2008 HHH1/2 Lifted, oaky nose and the nose. Warm, fruity One for the lovers of lovely length of varietal palate that “cries out for Chalice Bridge big, ripe, old-fashioned, fruit flavours with soft a curry”, thought one Margaret River Shiraz styles of shiraz. Quite tannins. $25 judge. $28 2007 HHHH1/2 oaky but has very ripe Montara Grampians Craneford Shiraz “Just a baby now but fruit to balance it. $25 Shiraz 2008 HHH 2008 HHH wait until she ages!” Nutty oak aromas on the Sweet, chocolaty nose said one judge. Nose nose. Cleverly handled and rounded, opulent projects blueberry and oak mingles with jammy palate with lingering ripe dark chocolate aromas. flavours. $24 fruit flavours. $26.10 Palate rich and ripe but still has poise. Very pleasant drink. $25.95108 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tastingMurray Street Mitolo JesterVineyards Barossa McLaren Vale ShirazValley Shiraz 2007 HHH2007 HHHH Broad, caramel-likeLicorice/beef stock-like bouquet and nice darkaromas. Lovely varietal cherry fruit flavours withfruit expression on some tar and leather. $28the palate. “It hasdepth, soul and spirit,” Stella Bellaenthused one judge. $25 Margaret RiverTenafeate Creek Shiraz 2007 HHHBasket Press One Fruit cake on the nose andTree Hill Shiraz a young, fresh ‘masculine’2007 HHHH style of palate. Will ageDeveloped nutty/bacony beautifully. $28nose. Palate rich, longand soft in the mouth, SHIRAZ/SYRAHwith a solid core of dark 2006 & OLDERfruit flavours and slight $25 - $30leathery complexity. $25Longview Yakka 21 TASTEDAdelaide Hills Shiraz 11 AWARDED2007 HHHHOffers some old- “Many of these older-fashioned fun with its vintage wines areintense, spicy, black drinking well but arevarietal fruit characters, ready now,” said onehigh level of tannins judge. “Some are overand some good oak in the hill, as expected.”support. $27Ballandean Estate Wine DinnersWines Family ReserveShiraz 2007 HHH September 14thSavoury, nutty nose Balthazar & Bellwether Sue Bell & Anita Bowenand firm, grippy palatewith bright fruit and oak pairing their wine to a 6 course degustationpresent but not overt. $25 October 5thEldredge Vineyards Mitchell’s DegustationBlue ChipClare Valley Shiraz October 26th2007 HHH Alpha Box & Dice with Justin LaneFull, firm and fleshy,old-fashioned style with Mantra’s 3rd Birthday Soireelots of cherries and Sunday 31st Octoberchocolate. More life left. Vistit www.mantraonkingwilliam.com.au 3-5 $25 for further detailsLeasingham Bin 61 Galafrey Dry Grown Mantra on King WilliamClare Valley Shiraz Mount Barker Shiraz 08 837772012007 HHH 2004 HHHHGood, simple dry red Beautifully aged wine 36 King William Road Goodwood SAdeveloping some earthy with fabulous finesse.edges but still has fruit Smells of boot polish Lunch Tuesday - Fridayfreshness. $26 and has a dark core of Dinner Tuesday - SaturdayGuichen Bay fruit on a palate with a Breakfast Sunday morningsVineyards Reserve solid spine of oak. $26Mount BensonShiraz 2007 HHHWarm, fleshy wine withlovely aged charactersstarting to showthrough. $27 September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 109

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E VDogRidge Shirtfront DiGiorgio Family SHIRAZ/SYRAH Lou Miranda Kellermeister BlackMcLaren Vale Shiraz Coonawarra Shiraz & BLENDS Estate Cordon Cut Sash Barossa Valley2006 HHHH 2006 HHH 2009/2008 Individual Vineyard Shiraz 2008 HHHHDark, brooding chocolate/ Subdued nose with $30 - $40 Barossa Valley Shiraz Sweet, jammy aromasspice nose and fleshy a minty edge. Fleshy 2008 HHHH1/2 with a spicy spike. Richpalate with spicy fruit, and flavoursome in the 66 TASTED Excellent example of and opulent palate.drying oak and some mouth; spice, olives and 41 AWARDED an old-fashioned style. “Very sexy,” thoughtgamey notes. Has a dark fruit. $25.99 Lots of ripe, concentrated Great purple/red colour, one judge. Fleshy corecertain elegance. $25 Tintara McLaren Vale wines from the hot ‘08 and lifted, perfumed of dark, spicy fruit. $30Crabtree Picnic Hill Shiraz 2006 HHH vintage. While some floral nose, with the Chalkers CrossingVineyard Watervale Lolly-sweet Ribena lacked freshness and perfume continuing onto Hilltops ShirazClare Valley Shiraz aromas and a simple, acidity, there were some the soft, well-balanced 2008 HHHH2006 HHH1/2 honest, oaky palate excellent wines from palate. $33.95 Beautiful, vibrantSpicy/chocolaty bouquet. that has dark cherries cooler regions that liked Moana Park raspberry/rhubarb-likeSoft and sweet on a beneath. $27 the heat. The blends Vineyard Tribute aromas with a big,palate showing a touch of Mount Burrumboot show how versatile shiraz Gimblett Road Syrah spicy lift. Fresh andage. Excellent example of Estate Heathcote is; it can go with just 2008 HHHH1/2 very stylish palate. Stillthe variety. $25 Shiraz 2006 HHH about anything. Huge lift of white pepper a youngster with yearsKies Klauber Block Medium-bodied wine on the nose, which ahead of it. $30Barossa Valley with lovely savoury/tarry Trinity Hill Gimblett follows through onto a Tempus TwoShiraz 2005 HHH1/2 characters among the Gravels Hawkes Bay long, graceful, elegant Pewter Range VineRipe, soft, fleshy wine spicy fruit. Good oak. $28 Syrah 2008 HHHHH and spicy palate that will Vale Barossa Shirazwith savoury aromas and Red Shed Lovely Rhone-like style age beautifully. $31.99 2008 HHHHflavours. “Yum!” was Barossa Valley with delicate floral and Preston Peak Rich and chunky wineone succinct comment Shiraz 2006 HHH fragrant nose. The palate Reserve Single smelling quite oaky andfrom the panel. $25 Inky, licorice nose and has just enough ripeness Vineyard Shiraz with simple, oak-derivedBrothers in Arms long, chunky, tarry, spicy to give great presence 2008 HHHH1/2 flavours and soft tannins.Sixth Generation palate with a firm tannic and is showing some Purple colour and cool, “The wine has charisma,”Reserve Langhorne backbone. $28 delightful earthy notes. spicy, forest floor type of said one judge. $30Creek Shiraz Mount Burrumboot A few years ahead of it bouquet. Sweet, earthy/ La Curio Reserve2003 HHH Estate Heathcote yet. 3-5 $34 berry fruit palate - very McLaren Vale ShirazDense savoury nose Shiraz 2005 HHH flavoursome, with good 2008 HHHHwith a sweet earth Pungent aromas and a acid backbone and silky- The nose is a lovelyedge. Similar palate with long, soft palate filled smooth tannins. $38 fusion of blueberriescomplex flavours. $27 with ripe dark berry fruits Bird in Hand Mt and roasted chestnuts.RidgeView and sweet oak. $28 Lofty Ranges Shiraz Deep, ‘decisive’,Hunter Valley Shiraz 2008 HHHH chunky palate with solid2006 HHH Clean, light aromas with flavours. Needs time toClosed nose and savoury notes. Very nice smooth the edges. $31austere, tight and tannic sweet/spicy flavourspalate. Acid holds fruit with fine balancingback for now. $25 tannins. Rich, warm and friendly wine - a tad old- STAR RATINGS  fashioned. $30Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryprofessionals and are compared in peerclasses by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 160. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).110 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tastingTim Smith Wines Squawking Magpie Hahndorf Hill Winery Simpatico Wines OxenberryBarossa Shiraz The Stoned Crow Adelaide Hills Shiraz Barossa Shiraz The Star of Greece2008 HHHH Gimblett Gravels 2008 HHH1/2 2008 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale ShirazElegant, well-balanced Hawkes Bay Syrah Delightfully perfumed/ Inky, rich, brooding 2008 HHH1/2wine with nice level of 2008 HHHH floral bouquet and aromas. Lovely layers of Pretty nose smelling likerichness. Still youthful, Cool-climate spicy/ amazingly long, youthful ripe fruit and chocolaty redcurrant juice. Soft,with fruit pastille aromas peppery aromas and palate with a brooding oak flavours with drying generous palate withand plum-like fruit some juicy brambly fruit core of pure, sweet tannins in support. $35 sweet fruit and silky-flavours. $32 on the palate. Nutty oak varietal fruit. $30 smooth tannins. $35Domain Barossa finish with tannins still Yelland & Papps Wise Eagle BayBlack Tongue quite astringent. $39.95 Devote Greenock Margaret RiverReserve Barossa Box Stallion Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2Valley Shiraz Mornington Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Dense, brooding aromas.2008 HHHH Peninsula Shiraz Quite inky nose, Intense licorice charactersVibrant purple wine 2008 HHH1/2 followed by a very soft on a nicely layered palatewith some lovely fruit/ Subdued nose with palate with intense, that’s surprisingly gentleoak aromas and a great some herbs and up-front, dark berry and lean. $35palate offering a big savoury notes. Palate flavours. $32 Grove Estate Themouthful of sweet dark has a concentration of Voyager Estate Cellar Block Hilltopsfruit flavours. $34 chocolate, pepper and Margaret River Shiraz ViognierBettenay’s spice. $30 Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 2009 HHHMargaret River Chapel Hill Nicely integrated plum- Big, bold, grippy monster;Shiraz 2008 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz like aromas. Restrained youthful, sweet and hot.Ripe, intense, 2008 HHH1/2 richness on a palate with “Only for the brave,”developed, earthy Rich, ripe, opulent wine sweet fruit and well- suggested one judge. $38bouquet and mouthfilling smelling like Ribena and handled tannins. $34complexity of ripe berry with sweet fruit cake-likeand spicy flavours. flavours and some subtleSupple and sweet. $35 oak underneath. $30Don't forget to invite Rich ard...2008 Richard Hamilton Shiraz... the perfect dinner guest. Cnr Main & Johnston Rds, McLaren Vale SA 5171 | p: 08 8323 8830 e: [email protected] | w: www.leconfieldwines.com September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 111

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E VBellarine Two III Associates St Michael’s Pertaringa Over the Fernando the FirstWives Geelong Decendant of Squid Vineyard Personal Top McLaren Vale South AustraliaShiraz 2008 HHH Ink McLaren Vale Reserve Heathcote Shiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2Bright fruit bouquet with Shiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHH Deep and earthy on Almost purple winea dash of chocolate. Earthy oak characters Big licorice hit to the the nose, with a good presents dark, denseSimilar palate. Very dominate nose and nose, with some depth weight of sweet/spicy berry fruits with‘honest’ wine. $30 palate, with some berry of flavour and tannic oak fruit on the palate. $39 beautiful spicy oakEden Road fruit underneath. $35 finish. $32 integration. Great palateEden Valley Shiraz Cable Bay SHIRAZ/SYRAH with balancing tannins2008 HHH Roennfeldt Waiheke Island & BLENDS and cedary oak. $39.99Sweet, spicy, berry- Genesis Barossa Syrah 2008 HHH 2007like aromas and a Shiraz 2008 HHH Light, bright and cherry- $30 - $40 All Saints Estateconcentrated spine Meaty, bacon-like like, with a spicy lift and Alias II Shirazof fruit, spice and oak aromas and a mouthful slightly gritty tannins. $33 31 TASTED Muscadelleflavours. $30 of sweet berry fruit Maxime Graillot 21 AWARDED 2007 HHHHEdwards flavours with a dash of Equinoxe France Strong class fromMargaret River pepper. $38 Crozes-Hermitage a cooler year, withShiraz 2008 HHH Bilancia Hawke’s 2008 HHH maturity evident amongOak evident on the Bay Syrah 2008 HHH Clean, fresh strawberry some. The fresher winesnose and obvious oak Complexity of red berry aromas; soft in the stood out because ofon a palate layered with and spice aromas. mouth and with a great their depth of flavour.peppery fruit. $30 Appealing simple purity balance of red fruitHeartland Directors’ to the palate. $34.95 flavours. $37.99 Kilikanoon CovenantCut Langhorne Creek Penny’s Hill The Clare Valley ShirazLimestone Coast Skeleton Key 2007 HHHHHShiraz 2008 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz “This wine really standsOaky nose, with lots of 2008 HHH out from the rest,” saidsweet fruit and sweet Very oaky nose, with one judge. Beautifullyoak on the palate. $30 more of the same on the developed blackberryRedgate spicy/peppery/leathery aromas with a big spicyMargaret River palate. $35 lift. Soft palate brimmingShiraz 2008 HHH Pepper Tree over with intense berryEarthy/gamey aromas The Gravels fruit flavours and with afollowed by a warm, Wrattonbully Shiraz drying finish. $38zesty palate. “Well made Viognier 2008 HHHwine with soul.” $30 Lively, oak-driven styleSandhurst Ridge with some savouryBendigo Shiraz notes and herbal2008 HHH elements and a warmingSavoury nose with a finish. $35spike of spearmint. The AuroraPalate delivers a nice Vineyard Bendigo‘oomph’ and has a warm Central Otago Syrahfinish. $30 2008 HHHScarpantoni Block 3 Black pepper andMcLaren Vale Shiraz earthy/spicy aromas.2008 HHH Mid-weight palate withLifted fruit cake-like light, peppery fruit andnose. Simple, syrupy balancing tannins. $38palate with lovely St Hallettbalance of sweet fruit Blackwell Barossaand oak. $30 Shiraz 2008 HHHWhistler Wines Huge spice box ofBarossa Shiraz aromas and a big, dark2008 HHH berry palate with soft,Very old-fashioned chamois-like tannins. $35style, with powerful,molasses-like aromas Nose a medley ofand an intense, hot and chocolate and plums.juicy palate. $30 Long, intense, brooding palate, with the fruit hidden behind the tannins and oak - for now. 3-5 $35112 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tastingTaltarni Pyrenees Kilikanoon Testament Kelman Hunter Valley Mills Reef Elspeth Amadio Block 2aShiraz 2007 HHHH Barossa Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Gimblett Gravels Adelaide Hills ShirazPure, fresh and vibrant 2007 HHHH Pretty spice box of Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007 HHHnose with a light, spicy Smoky/oaky bouquet. aromas and fresh, 2007 HHH1/2 Interesting smokynote. Good rich palate Great balance and vibrant red fruit flavours Pretty, cool-climate, characters on the nosewith a lovely complexity richness on a palate on a medium-bodied lantana-like aromas. and a surprisingly lightof fruit/oak flavours. $36 with plenty of appealing palate with slightly Palate has good balance berry palate. $36Harcourt Valley sweet fruit flavours and grippy tannins. $30 of ripe berries and green,Barbara’s Reserve a touch of vanilla. $38 Western Range spicy characters. $39.95 Evans & TateBendigo Shiraz Kilikanoon Wines Limited Lamont’s Swan Redbank Margaret2007 HHHH Alliance France Release Perth Hills Valley Shiraz River ShirazComplex and mature, Crozes-Hermitage Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 2007 HHH 2007 HHHtarry nose. Good 2007 HHHH Warm and earthy Earthy nutmeg aromas Smells spicy, with asweet varietal fruit Slightly woody nose with on the nose, with a with berries underneath perfumed lift. Up-frontweight and length on a cardamom and dark fruits delightful spicy lift. and generous sweet fruit sweet fruit flavours andpalate with tarry/berry lurking beneath. Lovely Plenty of clean fresh on the mid-palate. $30 powdery tannins. $39.95flavours and good layers of sweet fruit and fruit on the palate and Old Kent Riverpowdery tannins. $35 spicy oak flavours on the lots of vanillin oak. $34 Frankland River SHIRAZ/SYRAH palate. $38 K1 by Geoff Hardy Shiraz 2007 HHH & BLENDS Cape Barren Adelaide Hills Shiraz Appealing, fruity aromas 2006 & OLDER Reserve Old Vine 2007 HHH1/2 with shades of oak and $30 - $40 McLaren Vale Shiraz Bright, fresh and spicy lots of soft, sweet, dark 2007 HHHH on the nose. Sweet and berry flavours. $30 44 TASTED Earthy nose; nice level of berry-like in the mouth, Redgate 25 AWARDED spice. Soft in the mouth, with some drying Margaret River with very good up-front tannins. $35 Shiraz 2007 HHH The 2006 vintage was berry fruit edged with Millbrook Estate Nice perfumed lift to opulent, with nice, fine- chocolate. Tannins soft Shiraz Viognier the tarry nose, and grained tannins. These and sweet. $38.95 2007 HHH1/2 beautifully balanced, full- wines were ageing Mills Reef Elspeth Fruit compote of aromas, bodied palate. $30 gracefully. “A good strike Trust Vineyard and a rich, complex Brangayne of Orange rate with some very Gimblett Gravels palate with great Shiraz 2007 HHH nice wines,” agreed the Hawkes Bay Syrah mouthfeel and some Delight to drink, with judges. Better wines 2007 HHHH grippy tannins. $35 sweet varietal fruit from the ‘04/’05 vintages Lifted, green, spicy Paper Eagle Linchpin seamlessly integrated were ageing well but nose with sweet berries McLaren Vale Shiraz with tarry oak. $35 some will never improve. underneath. Up-front, 2007 HHH1/2 spicy flavours with Very sweet, perfumed sweet red berries on nose with a minty lift. the mid-palate. Very Good weight of tarry elegant. $39.95 fruit in the mouth, with lovely menthol freshness. $35 Winestate — July 2010 2008 Maximus Premium Shiraz ... Full and fleshy in the mouth, with ripe, bright varietal fruit balanced by the oak. Excellent palate weight. 5+ years. $24.99Adelaide Available fromBurnside Cellars Melbourne BrisbaneArkaba HotelBuckingham Arms Cloudwine Cellars The Wine Emporium Jimmy Watson Cellars Wine ExperienceSydney Dynasty Fine Wines Stewarts Wine Co Randell Wine MerchantVintageblue Cellars Blackhearts & Sparrows CanberraThe Oak BarrelWine Odyssey Canberra Cellars www.maximuswinesaustralia.com.au September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 113

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E V Kilikanoon Covenant Clare Valley Shiraz 2006 HHHH Aromas of inky-black berry fruits and subtle oak. Lovely sweet/spicy fruit palate with a hint of green spices. Good balance and ageing well. $38 Trevor Jones Boots Dry Grown Barossa Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Clean and spicy on the nose, with some berries underneath. Nice fruit density and sweetness on the palate. Long tannins. $30Saddler’s Creek Blue Pyrenees Galafrey Reserve Witchmount Shiraz Taltarni SingleWines Bluegrass The Reserve Shiraz Dry Grown 2006 HHH1/2 Vineyard HeathcoteBlend Shiraz Cabernet 2006 HHHH1/2 Mount Barker Shiraz Developed and leathery Shiraz 2006 HHH1/22006 HHHHH This wine is still quite 2006 HHHH aromas, then a big Medium-bodied wineBeautifully layered, youthful,offering many Mature, developed, mouthful of sweet with an abundancecomplex wine with an more years of ageing. savoury nose with a lift of varietal fruit and lovely of pretty, varietal fruitabundance of sweet, Firm palate with some spice. Interesting pickled balance of tannins. $33 offering sweet, ripe andstone-fruit characters. pretty varietal fruit and onion-like characters on nicely aged flavours. $36Some lovely spice and an savoury elements with the palate, mingling with Peregrine Ridgeharmonious balance of lean, green tannins. $32 spicy sweet fruit and Limited Releaseoak. Rich, warm and very Annie’s Lane nutty oak. $35 Heathcote Shirazflavoursome palate. $30 Copper Trail Clare 2006 HHH1/2 Valley Shiraz Leaning toward a more Grenache Mourvedre savoury style, with hints 2006 HHHH1/2 of chocolate, licorice Youthful wine with and mint and fruity years ahead of it yet. overtones. $35 Beautiful nose. Lovely, Seabrook Barossa soft and slippery in the Valley Shiraz mouth, with a seamless 2006 HHH1/2 integration of vibrant fruit Sweet, dark berry and some very “sexy” bouquet with a oak. “Yum!” $35.99 perfumed lift. Nice savoury/nutty palateHardys HRB D637 Thomson Estate Yarravale Reserve Yarravale Reserve with a lovely harmony ofClare Valley Antiquarian Yarra Valley Shiraz Yarra Valley Shiraz fruit sweetness. $35Adelaide Hills Shiraz Clare Valley Shiraz 2005 HHHH 2006 HHH1/2 Hartz Barn Wines2006 HHHHH 2006 HHHH1/2 Spicy leathery/licorice Generous amount of General StoreIntense aromas of Spicy/red berry nose bouquet. Good weight bright spicy/sweet fruit Barossa Shirazbright blackberry fruits developing lovely aged and length of sweet with good tannin length 2004 HHH1/2with retained peppery tarry characters. Palate dark fruit flavours and a nice savoury Dark, inky/tarry wine that’scharacters. Great palate has plenty of sweet neatly balanced by soft, character running quite complex and ageingwith gentle tannins dark berry flavours and a powdery tannins. $36.43 through it. $33.11 very gracefully. $30and tasting like licorice mouthful of tannins. Nutty Glaymond Landraceallsorts, with flavours development and good Barossa Valley Shirazthat linger long after the oak/acid combo. $38 Mataro 2006 HHHwine has gone. $39 Box Stallion Intense, chunky wine Mornington smelling of new leather Peninsula Shiraz and with quite a 2006 HHHH ‘feminine’ palate. $30 Cool mint and spices lift off the nose. Bright, fruit pastille type of fruit flavours with a hint of mint, a dash of pepper and some lovely spicy characters. $30114 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tastingTolley Elite Barossa Sylvan Springs Hartz Barn Wines SHIRAZ/SYRAH Chateau TanundaValley McLaren Vale Estate Cyril’s Reserve General Store & BLENDS Terroirs of theShiraz 2006 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Barossa Shiraz 2009/2008 Barossa LyndochSpicy wine balanced by 2006 HHH 2005 HHH $40 - $50 Shiraz 2008 HHHHHlovely sweetness and Smells like an old spice Developed, truffle-like Developed nose showingtraces of nice savoury box. Up-front dark fruits aromas and a soft, even 30 TASTED blackcurrant and spicy/characters. $37.99 CM on a palate developing and beautifully balanced 21 AWARDED nutmeg-like oak. GreatSaddler’s Creek leathery notes. $39.99 palate. $30 palate with beautifulWines Bluegrass Lady Bay Vineyard Lots of recommended balance and persistenceHunter Valley Yankalilla Shiraz wines here, as to be of dark fruits andLanghorne Creek 2005 HHH expected at this price. chocolate; quite syrupyShiraz 2006 HHH Great earthy nose - Although the fruit was with powdery tanninsLeathery/Old Spice-like smells like a barn! Palate excellent, some wines and a dry finish. $48aromas, and similar a bit lean but has some would have been better Howard Parkflavours on the complex nice fruit sweetness. $30 with less oak and some Scotsdale Greatpalate. $30 Stella Bella were overripe. “You Southern ShirazBrothers in Arms Margaret River don’t have to make 2008 HHHH1/2Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2004 HHH blockbusters to justify Quite an elegant andShiraz 2006 HHH Very fresh and mentholly the price - sometimes restrained, bright purpleBig, heavy, alcoholic nose. Good red fruit less is more.” wine; very peppery.style; still in good shape, flavours and a big Mint and berries on thewith balanced fruit/oak mouthful of tannins. $30 nose and lovely cherryflavours. $39 flavours with a sweetColdstream Hills tannin backbone on theReserve Yarra Valley palate. $40Shiraz 2006 HHHLicorice nose and softred fruit palate withspicy notes and hints ofvanilla. $39.99 wines of distinction “Peter, what’s the best wine you’ve ever made?” AND THE TRUE INNOVATOR’S ANSWER:- ‘I HAVEN’T MADE MY BEST WINE YET?” DISTRIBUTORS Melbourne - Westwood Wine Agencies Ph: 03 9686 9125 Tasmania - David Johnstone & Associates Ph: 03 6234 9999 Sydney - Australian Partners in Wine Ph: 02 96015896 To see full list of international distributors go to www.denniswines.com.au Cellar DoorKangarilla Road, McLaren Vale, follow the signs from Town Square. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Sat, Sun and Public Holidays 12noon-5pm phone (08) 8323 8665 fax (08) 8323 9121 email [email protected] website & orders www.denniswines.com.au September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 115

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E VTollana Brian & Grant Burge Filsell Heathcote Winery Sticks No 29 RidgeViewJulie Hurse Vineyard Barossa Old Vine Slaughter House Strathbogie Ranges Generations ReserveBendigo Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHH Hunter Valley Shiraz2008 HHHH1/2 Dense and inky nose Gorgeous blueberry Earthy/mushroomy 2007 HHHHHPerfumed, Old Spice-like with a hint of chocolate. fruit aromas and firmly aromas and dense Beautiful big, rich Aussiebouquet with a bright Fresh and youthful structured palate with concentration of sweet/ style - still pretty tight andberry lift. Soft red fruit varietal fruit flavours with big, ripe fruit matched sour flavours with a dry firm and with huge oak,palate with well-handled juicy acidity and some by equally big oak. $40 finish. $45 but it’s well matched by aoak and a very seductive earthy complexity. $40 Howard Park Leston mass of spicy blackberryfinish. “It’s really good,” Wolf Blass Grey Margaret River SHIRAZ/SYRAH fruit. Still very young, withsaid one judge. $40 Label McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 & BLENDS a long life ahead of it.Balgownie Estate Shiraz 2008 HHHH Great spicy nose with a 2007Black Label Bendigo Ripe style of wine that perfumed lift. Palate all $40 - $50 5+ $40Grampians Shiraz needs time to settle. structure and tannins,2008 HHHH Intense nutty/berry nose with bright cherry fruit 21 TASTEDTypical cool-climate and excellent balance flavours. $40 16 AWARDEDaromas of mint and between fruit, acid, Tilly Devinepepper, followed by tannins and oak. $42.99 McLaren Vale Shiraz Excellent class of big,a delightful varietal Saltram Winemakers 2008 HHH1/2 flavoursome wines which,fruit palate with Selection Barossa Complex, porty bouquet in some cases, weremouthwatering acid and Valley Shiraz - very appealing - with still closed. Very stylishfirm, soft tannins. $40 Tempranillo a big, sweet palate bright fruit at the top level.Man O’ War 2008 HHHH offering a mouthful of “Decant some of theseDreadnought Inky/jubey nose and lovely dark fruit/spicy flavours. for a very nice drink,”Waiheke Island spicy berry complexity suggested one judge.Syrah 2008 HHHH on the palate, with some 5+ $41.50Earthy and quite sweet oak underneath Fox Gordon KimboltonRhone-like shiraz. Fresh and slightly gritty tannins Hannah’s Swing The Riflemanspices on the nose and in support. $49.99 Barossa Valley Langhorne Creekmulberry sweetness in Balgownie Estate Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2007 HHHHHthe mouth, with some Bendigo Shiraz Spicy nose with some Big, voluptuous winevery good, gravelly 2008 HHH1/2 smoky notes. Excellent - very stylish. Lovelytannins. $40 Sweet, licoricey bouquet up-front, spicy dark fruit quality cedary oakSandhurst Ridge with a spike of spice. with oak kicking in early. sitting on top of spicy, Madeleines NSXReserve Bendigo Palate very ripe and Good texture. $44.95 Nangkita SingleShiraz 2008 HHHH sweet, but not cloying, Flaxman Wines plum pudding-like fruit Vineyard SouthernAttractive aromas with great texture and Eden Valley Shiraz with chocolaty/nutmegreminiscent of Asian weight. $40 2008 HHH1/2 characters threaded Fleurieu Shirazfive spice. Palate has Lovely vibrant mulberry 2007 HHHH1/2good powdery tannins, fragrances. Palate quite through. Another Huge, dense, almostbright, sweet, red berry oaky and not totally keeper. 5+ $42fruits and some nutty integrated with the black wine with a big hitdevelopment. $40 rich fruit - yet. Needs of licorice and blackberryPoonawatta Estate time. $45 aromas and very big,The Cuttings Ulithorne FruxEden Valley Shiraz Frugis McLaren Vale2008 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2Mature, inky, blackberry Earthy nose with a lift offragrances and good dried herbal aromas. Big,persistence of dense, mouthfilling licoricey/dark fruit flavours; a dark berry fruit andtouch chocolaty. Bright sweet oak flavours. $45and youthful wine. $49 Chateau TanundaDel Diablo Loco Terroirs of theAngel of the Abyss Barossa GreenockMcLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH1/22008 HHHH Smells of vanilla podsWell-made wine with and purple berries. Bigan inky licorice and but balanced palate withdark chocolate bouquet fragrant fruit and fineand great up-front tannins. $48fruit. Rich, dense and First Creekflavoursome, with a Winemakers Reservechocolaty finish. $49.99 Shiraz 2009 HHH Vibrant purple wine with youthful berry nose and full-flavoured palate of soft, fresh, blackberry sweet fruit, lovely oak palate. $42 and excellent grippy tannins. 3-5 $48116 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tasting Krondorf Symmetry Alkoomi Jarrah Barossa Valley Shiraz Frankland River 2007 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2007 HHHH Generous, oaky wine Still very young. Intense but well integrated with floral notes to the nose, some gorgeous jammy and a medium-bodied, fruit. Balanced and warm, tightly structured palate with savoury traces with sweet berry fruit reminiscent of roasting balanced by excellent pan juices! $48.99 CM acid/tannin combo. $44.69Oakvale Barrel Select Balgownie Estate Plantagenet Great Black Wattle Haselgrove Il PadroneHunter Valley Shiraz Bendigo Shiraz Southern Shiraz Mt Benson Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz2007 HHHH1/2 2007 HHHH 2007 HHHH 2007 HHH1/2 2007 HHH1/2Big, closed and very Big, rich colour, Dark chocolaty nose Very traditional style, Very ripe, porty noseyouthful style, with concentrated blueberry threaded through with with huge colour and lots and full-on, generous,intense, bright, blueberry- aromas and intense plum fruit. Medium- of sweet, ripe blackberry super-ripe fruit flavours flavours of mint and bodied palate with jam fruit with good oak with heaps of oak to blackberries, with generous, ripe, fruit cake integration. $40.99 CM match. $48 leathery complexity and flavours and a tight oak Mum’s Block a spicy lift. $40 structure. $40 Barossa Valley Dorrien Estate Bin Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 1 Barossa Valley Well-made, slightly Shiraz 2007 HHHH older style with Very spicy aromas and spicy plum fruit and excellent harmony of subtle integrated oak licorice, pepper and characters. Has flavour berry flavours beautifully and weight. $42.99 CM supported by a nicelike fruit with seamless grainy tannin backbone.oak integration and, for themoment, obvious tannins. 3-5 $41.99 CMAnother wine with yearsahead of it. 5+ $49 September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 117

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E VClaymore Wines Yellow Tail by Yellow Tail by Anvers The WarriorNirva’na Reserve Casella Wines Casella Wines Adelaide HillsClare Valley Shiraz Limited Release Limited Release McLaren Vale2007 HHH Barossa Valley McLaren Vale Shiraz Langhorne CreekOak-driven style with Shiraz 2006 HHHHH 2004 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2006 HHHlifted toffee aromas, and Young and very Deep, complex wine Big, rich, almost porty,very complex, sweet and intense wine with developing beautifully, style that smells likeflavoursome palate. $40 excellent clean, lifted with lovely complexity plum pudding and has blueberry fruit aromas of nutty oak, jammy chocolaty flavours. $47Montirius Serine and obvious, but well- fruit and mint. PalateFrance Cotes du integrated, oak. Palate structure is still firm and SHIRAZ/SYRAHRhone 2007 HHH is rich, rounded, well tight for a six-year-old & BLENDSTightly structured wine structured and full of wine. $49.95 $50 - $60with spicy berry fruit flavour. 5+ $49.95and powerful herbal Ben Potts 50 TASTEDcharacters. $41 Yellow Tail by Pauletts Andreas Fiddle’s Block 41 AWARDED Casella Wines Polish Hill River Langhorne Creek The judges thoughtBacchant Limited Release Shiraz 2006 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2006 HHHH these were great winesAdelaide Hills Wrattonbully Shiraz Big and extremely “A very stylish wine,” across the board fromShiraz 2007 HHH 2005 HHHHH youthful wine with commented one judge. It different vintages,Closed, inky nose, and Huge minty/camphor nice blackberry/licorice has a generous amount which is testament todark licorice notes on a lift to the dark varietal flavours and showing a of vibrant varietal fruit the winemakers’ ability.sweet fruit palate with a aromas. Very tannic great background of oak. that’s well integrated There were some intight structure. $42 palate but it’s in balance Excellent silky-smooth with some lovely spicy this higher price bracket with the sweet fruit mouthfeel with great oak. 3-5 $40 where the fruit seemedMoppity Vineyards and has lovely alcohol flavour length. $48 to have been left on theReserve Hilltops warmth. Full, rich and Peter Lehmann Eight Dorrien Estate Bin vine a little too long.Shiraz 2007 HHH concentrated wine. Songs Barossa Shiraz 1 Barossa ValleyBig, rich, well-balanced, 2005 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2006 HHHH Orlando Winesminty wine with loads of 3-5 $49.95 Youthful classic Very intense, ‘shriveled’ Lawson’s Padthawayplum and boot polish-like somewhat dominated by berry fruit-like aromas Shiraz 2004 HHHHHcharacters. $49.99 some lovely charry oak, with a hint of mint. Lovely Amazing nose that but there’s a generous richness of sweet, ripe positively reeks of mintSHIRAZ/SYRAH amount of plum-like black fruit flavours with a and camphor. The& BLENDS fruit characters. Well very drying, tannic finish. palate is more a soft,2006 & OLDER structured, with an oaky lighter style, again with$40 - $50 finish. $40 5+ $41.99 CM those distinctive minty characteristics. Has21 TASTED BlackJack Bendigo alcohol warmth and drying14 AWARDED Shiraz 2005 HHH1/2 oak tannins. $59.99 Lovely spicy nose - verging on floral. Medium-weight balanced palate with nice fruity/ mulberry flavours; soft inThe judges either loved the mouth. 5+ $40or hated these wines.The best were ripe and Jamabro Wines Theopulent; “You get bang PT Barossa Valleyfor your buck here.” Shiraz 2005 HHH1/2These are also ageing Older, meaty style ofpropositions still exhibiting shiraz, quite developed,vibrant characteristics. with strong herbal notes and leatheryNewton Forrest RidgeView overtones. Touch hot Generations Reserve on the finish. $40Estate Gimblett Hunter Valley Shiraz Yellow Tail by CasellaGravels Hawkes BaySyrah 2006 HHHHH 2006 HHHH1/2 Wines Premium Lifted plum fruit and McLaren Vale Shiraz“A very classy wine,” chocolaty/mocha-like 2003 HHH1/2was one verdict.Quite oaky but has aromas with nice earthy Quite a developed wine, elements. Much the with dark, savoury,enough sweet berry same happening on a mocha/gravy-like aromasconcentration to carry it.Tight palate structure. firm, tight palate that and intense, meaty has an oaky tannic flavours. Holding upHas much more ageing finish. 3-5 $40 well. 1-2 $49.95potential. 5+ $45 Balthazar of the Barossa Shiraz 2006 HHH Closed, simple wine with tight fruit flavours and good peppery elements. 3-5 $49.50118 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

Anaperenna by Ben varietal tasting Glaetzer Barossa Valley Shiraz YOUR UNIQUE WINESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon MAGAZINE 5 STAR GOLD 2007 HHHHH TOP RED WINE OFFER Good purple hues and a nose that is a classy McLaren Vale at its best! fusion of perfumed oak and spicy fruit. Generous From The Old Faithful Wine Company palate, seamless structure 3 bottles 2006 McLaren Vale Cafe Block Shiraz with lovely sweet varietal 3 bottles 2006 McLaren Vale Top of the Hill Shiraz fruit flavours and a From James Haselgrove Wines suggestion of orange peel. 1 bottle 2005 McLaren Vale Futures Shiraz 1 bottle 2007 McLaren Vale Futures Shiraz 5+ $50 4 bottles 2008 McLaren Vale Futures ShirazChateau Reynella Normally $660 per dozenBasket Pressed ($55 per 750ml bottle)McLaren Vale Shiraz One dozen mixed,2007 HHHHH Old Faithful and James HaselgroveHuge, generous, old-fashioned style with for the special price of $594lovely depth and intensityof sweet varietal fruit delivered anywhere in Australia.matched by well-handled Orders received before July 31st 2010oak that all adds up will receive FREE with your order one bottle of the highly awarded The Old Faithful 2006 McLaren Vale Almond Grove Mourvedre. ORDER ONLINE or CALL 0418 845 576 / (08) 8383 0886 www.haselgrovevignerons.com or www.thepavilion.biz/shopto a very satisfying drinkingexperience! 3-5 $54 The Old Faithful Cafe Block McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Quite an oaky wine but enhanced by a huge hit of blackberry/mulberry- type fruit characters. Sweet and generous in the mouth, with a firm finish. Will develop well. 5+ $55James Haselgrove Kaesler The BoganWines Futures Barossa Valley ShirazMcLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/22008 HHHHH Really classy number,Excellent example of almost magenta inthe variety - complex colour but needing a fewand concentrated fusion more years in the cellar.of lifted aromatic fruit, Full of ripe berry fruitchocolaty oak and drying, and showing a floral liftgrainy tannins. Leans with a dash of peppertoward the savoury end and firm tannins. $50of the spectrum. $55 Seppelt Benno Bendigo Shiraz 2006 HHHH1/2 Inky nose not giving much away. Firm and dry palate with excellent structure and generosity of sweet fruit and spicy oak. Nice long, firm, lingering finish. $55.99 September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 119

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E V Mr Riggs Annie’s Lane Copper Thorn-Clarke Stephen John VI McLaren Vale Shiraz Trail Clare Valley William Randell Generations Clare 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2006 HHHH Barossa Valley Valley Shiraz Lifted varietal fruit Still a baby, with massive Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon bouquet and excellent raspberry/mulberry fruit Warm, oak-driven 2004 HHH1/2 concentration of aromas. Palate remains Aussie style with good Candy-sweet nose with blackberry and plum tight, with beautifully concentration of jammy/ minty notes. Tightly pudding flavours with balanced sweet fruit and plum pudding type of structured palate layers of cedary oak and savoury characters. Very characters and a tannic with generous aged some leafy elements. $50 stylish. 5+ $53.99 end. $55 flavours and leathery Brown Brothers complexity. $50 Summerfield Gemtree Patricia Victoria Saieh Pyrenees Vineyards Obsidian Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Saracen Estates Central Victoria McLaren Vale Shiraz Closed, inky nose and Reserve Margaret Shiraz 2008 HHHH 2007 HHH1/2 long, tight palate filled River Shiraz The nose shouts of Rich and generous shiraz with stylish, spicy fruit 2008 HHH camphor and spices and with loads of sweet oak and overlaid with some Spicy aromas with a is followed by a nicely and excellent varietal well-handled oak. $55.90 eucalypt lift, and cool- focused, jammy palate fruit that fills the nose Aramis Vineyards climate minty/peppery with spicy oak in a and explodes with The Governor palate. $50 flavour in the mouth. $50 McLaren Vale Syrah good supporting role. 2006 HHH1/2 Heathcote A keeper. 5+ $50 Ripe, generous and Winery Curagee Sirromet Night very flavoursome, old- Shiraz 2008 HHHRichard Hamilton Murray Street Sky Premium fashioned style rich with Lightweight with aCenturion 116 Year Vineyards Gomersal Reserve Granite plum jam and chocolate fragrant, BeaujolaisOld Vine McLaren Barossa Valley Belt Shiraz Viognier characters. $55.99 style of nose and tightlyVale Shiraz Shiraz 2007 HHHH 2007 HHH1/2 Mitolo Reiver flavoured, subtle fruit2008 HHHH1/2 Huge colour, big, rich, Stylish, mid-weight wine Barossa Valley flavours. $55Deep, closed and very inky sweet, prune-like with slightly restrained, Shiraz 2007 HHHnose. Tight, focused and nose and a massive, perfumed bouquet and Very soft, mature wine Maxime Graillotvery drying palate, packed flavoursome palate simple, balanced, sweet with generous varietal Domaine Des Liseswith flavour and combined verging on the porty varietal flavours. $50 fruit characters; quite France Crozes-with some excellent, and drawing to a grippy, advanced for its age. $58 Hermitage 2007 HHHgrainy tannins to make a tannic finish. $55 Francois Merlin Shingleback Delicate, cool-climate,“top wine”. $59.95 France Saint-Joseph D Block Reserve fruit-driven style verging 2007 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz on floral and with Fruit-driven Rhone style 2006 HHH1/2 orange peel characters.The Old Faithful with a lovely combination Chocolaty bouquet withTop of the Hill of plum, pepper savoury, pan juice-like 3-5 $50McLaren Vale Shiraz and smoked oyster characters. Smooth and2007 HHHH1/2 characters. 3-5 $55 creamy in the mouth, Pyrenees RidgeBig, ripe Aussie style with dark fruit/oak Reserve Pyreneesthat smells spicy with Leasingham flavours. $59.95 Shiraz 2007 HHH‘crushed ant’ traces Classic Clare Shiraz Paul Jaboulet Elegant style withand has intense black 2007 HHH1/2 Domaine de simple mulberry/pepper flavours on a Modern, stalky/peppery Thalabert France raspberry fruit aromasfirm, tightly structured style with obvious spicy/ Crozes-Hermitage and flavours and hints ofpalate. Cellar it for a few peppery oak lift on the 2005 HHH1/2 herbs. 3-5 $50years. 5+ $55 nose and a tight, medium- Quite an aged, bodied palate. $55 developed wine, with a Murray StreetTatachilla Foundation distinctively Rhone-like Vineyards GreenockMcLaren Vale Shiraz The Old Faithful Cafe nose and fruity flavours Barossa Valley2005 HHHH1/2 Block McLaren Vale with meaty/savoury Shiraz 2007 HHHGreat colour. Hugely Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 complexity. $54 Powerful mix ofconcentrated ripe Pepper and spice on the James Haselgrove blackberry fruit andblackberry aromas with nose. Soft in the mouth, Wines Futures charry oak with cedar-an edge of spicy oak. with generous chocolaty/ McLaren Vale Shiraz like development.Beautifully balanced savoury flavours layered 2005 HHH1/2palate full of bright, with berries. $55 Nicely aged, developed, 3-5 $55 cedary aromas withpeppery varietal fruit. III Associates The Old Faithful prune-like flavours Tintara The ClassicsA touch hot on the Squid Ink Reserve Top of the Hill threaded through McLaren Vale Shirazfinish. 5+ $55 McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz with some nice meaty 2006 HHH 2008 HHHH 2006 HHH1/2 elements. $55 More modern style,Hentley Farm Still very young and not Big, rich, sweet shiraz with herbal/stalkyThe Beauty giving much away yet. that’s soft and warm characters on both noseBarossa Valley The nose is closed and in the mouth and has and palate. $52Shiraz 2008 HHHH inky and the palate has generous spicy/pepperyVery youthful wine with lashings of excellent characters. $55 Yalumba Single Sitesome nice licorice-like dark varietal fruit. Lyndoch Barossafruit well integrated with Shiraz 2006 HHHthe oak. Nice creamy 3-5 $50 Full-flavoured, oaky wine with lovely rich fruitconsistency in the sweetness. $59.99mouth. 3-5 $50120 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tastingSeppelt Mount IdaHeathcote Shiraz2006 HHHVery closed noseshowing a hint of herbsand spices. Quiteaustere and astringentpalate. 3-5 $55.99St LeonardsWahgunyahRipasso VictoriaShiraz 2007 HHHLovely cool-climate,minty nose and lightpalate with attractive,spicy fruit. Will age verywell. 5+ $55Yalumba Single Site Trevor Jones WildLight Pass Barossa Witch Reserve DryShiraz 2006 HHH Grown BarossaNose is a complexity of Shiraz 2005 HHHHHjammy fruit and coffee Generous, somewhat old-characters. Generous, fashioned, style that stillsweet prune juice has a level of freshness.flavours. $59.95 Nice mintiness to theWild Fox nose and great blackberryOrganic Premium flavours balanced byAdelaide Plains some well handled sweetShiraz 2005 HHH oak. $65Lovely bottle age onthe blueberry nose, anda soft, sweet, maturelicorice palate. $50SHIRAZ/SYRAH& BLENDS$60 - $7029 TASTED25 AWARDEDMore variable class -particularly with theyounger wines. Thejudges preferred theolder wines in this class.Once again, a number ofproducers are pushingthe envelope in termsof ripeness resulting injammy characters.La Pleiade Chapel Hill The Crafted with character.Chapoutier Jasper Vicar McLaren Vale Approachable, classic,Hill Heathcote Shiraz 2008 HHHHHShiraz 2006 HHHHH Very youthful, old- regional styles.Amazingly aromatic fashioned style withblueberry bouquet with deep, rich purple hues, w w w. s e r a f i n o w i n e s . c o m . a ubright peppery notes, dense berry aromas andfollowed by a nicely spicy/leathery flavours. Kangarilla Road, McLaren Vale South Australiabalanced, hot chocolaty The palate has texturepalate layered with and excellent mouthfeel T 08 8323 0157 | E admin@serafinowines.com.ausweet varietal fruit that and plenty of cellaringfills the mouth with potential. 3-5 $60lovely long flavours. $69 TC10258 September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 121

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E V Warrenmang Estate The Lane Seppelt St Peters Pyrenees Shiraz Vineyard Reunion Grampians Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 Single Vineyard 2006 HHH1/2 Very oaky, tightly Adelaide Hills Shiraz Sweet, ripe, fruit-driven structured wine. Nice 2008 HHHH wine with lively prune whiff of varietal fruit on Dark chocolaty shiraz fruit bouquet and tight, the nose. Medium-bodied with a slight hint of fresh, blackberry/plum palate is stylish and full leafiness on the nose flavours. $69.99 of lovely varietal flavours and a palate that’s ripe DogRidge MVP Most with a creamy mouthfeel. and sweet and full of Valuable Player varietal fruit flavours. $65 McLaren Vale Shiraz 3-5 $60 2005 HHH1/2 Domaine Georges Yelland & Papps Developed Christmas Vernay France Saint- Divine Barossa Valley cake fruit on the nose, Joseph 2006 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 and a palate with nice Fusion of cool-climate Massive hit of prune aged characters and varietal fruits with juice-like characters on the quite warm in the some lovely lifted, spicy nose. Solid palate - quite mouth. $65 elements. Delightful porty but with balancing Whistler Wines The palate, firm, tight and charry oak. 3-5 $65 Reserve Barossa tannic. $65 Shiraz 2008 HHHThomas Hardy Wines DogRidge MVP Most Bleasdale McWilliam’s Wines Ripe concentration ofImprimatur Shiraz Valuable Player Powder Monkey Mount Pleasant intense, porty aromas2005 HHHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz Langhorne Creek Maurice O’Shea and a super-sweet palateBig, chocolaty shiraz 2004 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 - very chocolaty. $62offering beautiful Spicy/inky nose with Intense licorice/blueberry Ripe, porty fruit aromas Grampians Estatedrinking right now. Slight a bright, sweet note. bouquet, followed by a and a hot, sweet, full- Streeton Reservejasmine edge to the Creamy in the mouth drying, savoury palate bodied palate with plenty Shiraz 2008 HHHnose and lovely soft, and layered with long, of punchy, prune juice Multi-layered aromascedar-like palate with lingering, chocolaty flavours. $65 and very rich, ripe palategenerous varietal fruit oak and varietal fruit with lovely creamyflavours. $66 flavours. $65 with obvious charry oak mouthfeel. Needs time. layered with dark fruit characters. 3-5 $65 3-5 $65 Hand Picked Rolf Binder Signature Series Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHH Advanced candied bouquet and tight palate. Good body, with fruit flavour richness. 5+ $69.95 Taltarni Reserve Serafino Sharktooth Moonambel McLaren Vale Shiraz Vineyards Pyrenees 2007 HHH Shiraz Cabernet Intense colour, 2004 HHH1/2 subdued licorice aromas Mature fruit nose with and chocolaty flavours nice mintiness. Excellent on an austere palate. palate - still fresh and tight, with blackberry 5+ $60 fruit and some subtle oak. 3-5 $65 DogRidge MVP Most Valuable Player Wirra Wirra RSW McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Wyndham Estate 2007 HHHPeregrine Ridge 2008 HHHH Black Cluster Oak-driven, nutmeg-likeWinemaker’s Reserve Ripe plum aromas Hunter Valley Shiraz nose and a lean andHeathcote Shiraz complemented by some 2006 HHHH spicy palate with plum2006 HHHH1/2 nice nutty oak. Very Projects big, chocolaty flavours. 3-5 $65Very complex oaky/ flavoursome, medium- aromas and has a tight,chocolaty style. Smells bodied, oaky palate tarry palate with peppery Taylors St Andrewsof cigar boxes and with some lovely soft style of fruit flavours Clare Valley Shirazleather. Soft and warm tannins. 3-5 $65 well matched by a good 2004 HHHin the mouth and tasting level of charry oak. $65 Developed, oaky stylequite peppery, with a hot with quite a meaty nosefinish. Good commercial and soft, creamy fruitwine. 3-5 $60 palate. $60122 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tastingEldredge VineyardsGilt Edge Clare ValleyShiraz 2004 HHHVery traditional big, blackblockbuster. Sweetfruit lift to the nose andgenerous flavours. $65Tahbilk Eric StevensPurbrick Shiraz2004 HHHDry, savoury shirazwith good pepperyflavours and cedar-likedevelopment. $69.95SHIRAZ/SYRAH& BLENDS$70 - $8026 TASTED23 AWARDEDNot many faulty wines Bimbadgen Familyhere, but the judges found Selection Jollya few were excessively Jake McLaren Valealcoholic or tannic and Hunter Valley Shirazsome offered acceptable 2006 HHHHdrinking but were lacking Quite a developed rustic/distinction for this price. earthy nose. LovelyThe best wines had flavour, silky texture to a longtexture, balance and palate with an earthy,“something interesting”. juicy flavour profile and a lingering finish. $75John ForrestCollection GimblettGravels Hawkes BaySyrah 2006 HHHHHPerfumed, minty aromaswith some crackedpepper characters. Lovelylong, evenly texturedpalate of good weight,with pure, fine, cool-climate fruit flavours anda high level of oak. $70Saltram No.1 Barossa Jacob’s Creek Crafted with character.Shiraz 2006 HHHHH Johann South Distinctive, elegant,Very promising young, Australia Shiraz regional Shiraz.vivid purple, wine. Vibrant Cabernet 2004 HHHHdark berry and plum-like Floral/vanilla aromas and w w w. s e r a f i n o w i n e s . c o m . a unose. Luscious palate, a long, vibrant palatewith the tannins keeping that’s very youthful, Kangarilla Road, McLaren Vale South Australiait savoury. Needs more beautifully textured andtime to evolve. Very has nicely balanced acid T 08 8323 0157 | E admin@serafinowines.com.austylish. $77.99 and tannins. $74.99Kilikanoon OracleClare Valley Shiraz TC102582007 HHHH1/2Vibrant, perfumedplum aromas and apalate that offers someinteresting layers of spicyoak and damson plumtype of fruit. Big tannicbackbone. Reasonablylong finish. $75 September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 123

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E VKilikanoon Brand’s Laira Capercaillie The Clonakilla Barossa Valley EstateGreen’s Vineyard Stentiford’s Ghillie Hunter Valley Shiraz Viognier E&E Black PepperBarossa Valley Old Vine Shiraz Shiraz 2006 HHH 2008 HHHHH Barossa Valley ShirazShiraz 2007 HHHH 2006 HHHH Cedary oak bouquet Classy, opulent wine 2005 HHHH1/2Traditional Aussie style Big, brash, alcoholic and smooth, juicy, with spicy/barnyardy Abundance of excellent,with excellent savoury wine with power well-balanced floral/ bouquet and gorgeous dense, slightly stewedcomplexity. Has massive and intensity. Nice strawberry palate. $70 medium-bodied palate blackcurrant-like fruitwood but a good density developed spicy/ with long, succulent with some tarry/licoriceof fruit that just shows mint aromas and long, J. L. Chave Offerus spicy/fruit flavours. Very elements. Big, densethrough. $75 lingering, varietal fruit France Saint-Joseph young. Let it sit in the palate with excellentMcGuigan Farms and oak flavours. $74.99 2006 HHH cellar for a few years structure and niceBarossa Valley Kilikanoon Unusual, almost and be rewarded. $86 length of sweet oakShiraz 2008 HHHH Green’s Vineyard salty, nose. Fine acid characters. $90Young, lush and very Barossa Valley palate with pinot-like Simpatico Winessucculent wine with an Shiraz 2006 HHHH strawberry fruit and Stonewell Shiraz Paper Eagle Rarefiedabundance of vibrant Very stylish, well- great tannins. $75 2008 HHHH1/2 Air McLaren Valevarietal fruit and good balanced wine developing Great colour. Pleasant Shiraz 2007 HHHHgravelly tannins on a long, attractive bottle-age Kilikanoon M headful of intense plum Pretty, floral aromastexturally even palate. $70 characters. Coal tar and McLaren Vale Shiraz and raspberry fruit and an inky fruit palate. berry nose and dark fruit 2006 HHH aromas. Tightly structured Quite muscular and hot.Lady Bay Vineyard flavours. $75 Evolved aromas with hints palate is soft in the “Very young but alreadyLimited Release Nashwauk Wrecked of violets. Full-bodied, mouth and has lashings looking impressive,”Southern Fleurieu McLaren Vale Shiraz savoury palate with plenty of candied fruit flavours said one judge. $90Peninsula Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 of tannins. $75 seamlessly blending with Elderton CommandCabernet Sauvignon Evolved, earthy nose the oak. $80 Single Vineyard2006 HHHH and silky-smooth, oaky Maxwell Yalumba The Barossa ShirazUnusual medicinal palate with a big alcohol Minotaur Reserve Octavius Barossa 2006 HHHHaromas with ‘crushed hit and some lovely McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2005 HHHH1/2 Developed colour andant’-like traces. Robust, jubey fruit flavours. $70 2006 HHH Youthful colour, vibrant, bright, minty/chocolatefull-bodied palate with Capercaillie The Big, inky style with huge perfumed nose and complexity on the nose,long, youthful flavours Ghillie Hunter Valley tannin structure but has long, lingering, dense followed by a palateand well-balanced Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 enough fleshy fruit to palate with fresh, spicy, that’s very oaky - but thetannins. $70 Very lifted, peppery/spicy balance. $75 varietal fruit flavours fruit does survive! $95Fox Creek Reserve aromas. Palate long, - very intense. All it Kaesler WOMSMcLaren Vale Shiraz smooth and rounded, Murray Street needs now is to do Barossa Valley2006 HHHH with good fruit weight and Vineyards Sophia some more time in the Shiraz CabernetChocolaty/mocha oak reasonable length. $70 Barossa Valley cellar. $99.95 2008 HHH1/2aromas leading to an The Hay Paddock Shiraz 2006 HHH Interesting, unusual‘exotic’, juicy, raisined Waiheke Island Big, tannic wine with aromas. Lovely long,fruit/chocolate palate Syrah 2007 HHH1/2 some dense berry fruit velvety palate withwith loads of tannins and Nose of cracked pepper sitting underneath. beautifully structureddecent flavour length. $70 and heavily toasted Quite hot. $75 tannins and dense, oak. Long, fine palate. brooding fruit. $80 Needs more time - “ Wynns Coonawarra Chateau Tanunda It will get there,” said Estate Michael The Chateau one judge. $72 Limited Release 100 Year Old Vines Kalleske Eduard Old Coonawarra Shiraz Barossa Shiraz Vine Barossa Valley 2005 HHH 2008 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHH Evolved chocolaty nose Very heavy, dense oak Loaded with oak and with a minty/medicinal sitting on top of slightly mulberries. Chunky note. Very tannic sweet stewed dark berry/plum palate with lots of fruit palate. $76 fruit. Needs time to tannins. $75 integrate. $95 Moorilla Muse SHIRAZ/SYRAH Bilancia la Collina Series Tasmania & BLENDS Hawke’s Bay Syrah Syrah 2008 HHH $80 - $100 2007 HHH1/2 Tight, spicy wine with Evolved, earthy nose vanillin nose and lovely 22 TASTED with a dash of pepper long, juicy palate. $75 17 AWARDED and spice. Long, juicy Fox Creek Reserve palate shows lovely McLaren Vale Shiraz “A diverse range of complexity and firm 2007 HHH styles making it a more tannins. $80 Quite a ripe blackcurrant/ interesting class of wines, olive nose and very not necessarily better developed, luscious fruit than the previous group.” palate. $70 Generally these wines are ready for drinking now or soon, rather than being aged further.124 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

Poonawatta Estate SHIRAZ/SYRAH varietal tastingThe 1880 Eden Valley & BLENDSShiraz 2007 HHH1/2 $100 - $200 McLaren Val eComplex, savourybouquet, and quite a ripe, 19 TASTED Stay • Relax • Indulgefleshy palate with flavoursof blackcurrants layered 15 AWARDEDwith charry oak. $80Warrenmang The judges found this aBlack Puma Shiraz disappointing group for2007 HHH1/2 the price. “Some areBig, oaky wine with trying to push the limitdark, brooding fruits. in terms of complexity,Very acid-driven but it’s which sometimes worksall in balance; just young but sometimes deliversand raw and needing the wrong sort oftime. $80 complexity,” suggestedKatnook Estate one judge. A number ofProdigy Coonawarra wines were at their peak.Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2Evolved, tarry/leatherywine - very complex. Alift of perfume on thenose, followed by along, savoury palate. $95Peter LehmannStonewell BarossaShiraz 2005 HHH1/2“Like a rich, complexchocolate pudding,”thought one judge.Well-balanced,old-fashioned styledeveloping nicely. $90Mollydooker Carnival Winery • Restaurant • Functions • ResortLove McLaren Vale Conferences • WeddingsShiraz 2009 HHHVery young, with intense, No matter what the occasion, enjoyup-front primary fruit. the hospitality Serafino McLaren ValeQuite an exotic palatebut a tad short. $90 has to offer.Bilancia la Collina Wolf Blass Platinum Situated in a serene native park-likeHawke’s Bay Syrah Label Barossa Shiraz setting in McLaren Vale, in South Australia’s2008 HHH 2006 HHHHHNotes of green apples Inky-purple wine with picturesque, internationally recognisedon the nose and slightly lovely dense, layered wine region, it’s only a 40 minute drivestewed fruit palate. aromas and a robustNeeds time to get it but ‘slinky’ palate with from Adelaide.together. $80 youthful fruit flavoursBethany GR 10 and heaps of oak. Has serafinomclarenvale.com.auReserve Barossa balance and structure.Shiraz 2005 HHH Described by one judge TC10258Very mature for an ‘05, as “a sleeper”. $169.99offering a melange of Chateau Tanunda Kangarilla Road, McLaren Vale South Australiameaty, earthy, tarry, The Everest Barossaleathery characters. $85 Valley Shiraz Tel: 08 8323 8911Bethany GR 11 2005 HHHH1/2Reserve Barossa Pleasant, medicinal typeShiraz 2006 HHH of aromas. Lovely palateOaky nose developing with an intense burst ofsome nice leathery aged fruit flavours - still brightnotes. Flavoursome and fresh and very long,palate is long and with a hint of gherkin-likecomplex. $85 characters. Developing beautifully. $160 September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 125

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E VPenfolds RWT Haskell Aeon SHIRAZ/SYRAH E.Guigal Torbreck Run RigBarossa Valley Vineyard Series & BLENDS Chateau d’Ampuis Barossa ValleyShiraz 2007 HHHH Stellenbosch Syrah $200 + France Cote-Rotie Shiraz 2005 HHHHSavoury/earthy shiraz 2007 HHH 2005 HHHHH Funky/earthy nose withwith hot alcohol. Smells Barnyard/Vegemite-like 14 TASTED Iodine-like bouquet slight meaty edge.spicy. Palate has lovely nose and a soft, fleshy, 11 AWARDED leading to a palate that’s Layers of chocolate andvelvety tannins. $174.99 red berry palate with Strong class deserving long and silky-smooth, rich, raspberry type ofSaltram The Journal lovely structure. Very further attention. “These with suede-like texture fruit flavours with lovelyBarossa Valley long. $104 wines grew in the glass,” and exhibiting quite lean, length of tannins inShiraz 2006 HHHH Jasper Hill Emily’s said one judge. “It’s like savoury-like flavours support. $260Big, dense, extracted Paddock Heathcote listening to Wagner - the with good level of drying Henschke Hill ofwine with coal tar aromas Shiraz Cabernet wines need to be drawn tannins. $290 Grace Eden Valleyand huge fresh fruit Franc 2007 HHH out!” Most these wines Cathcart Ridge Shiraz 2005 HHHHflavours on a big, tannic Smells like tobacco leaves will age well, which is Estate The Grampian Chocolaty/meatypalate - still fresh and and olives. Big, chunky, what you would expect at Shiraz 2006 HHHH bouquet; some niceyoung. “An older style chewy, tannic palate with this price. Succulent wine heavily spices. Beautiful long,but a good one.” $125 jubey fruit. $111 Penfolds Bin 95 dosed with oak. Massive harmoniously balanced Trinity Hill Homage Grange 2005 HHHHH palate structure, with palate with soft, fleshyWolf Blass Platinum Gimblett Gravels Dense, long and lovely; elegant, perfumed fruit blackcurrant/licoriceLabel Barossa Shiraz Syrah 2007 HHH vibrant and youthful. pushing its way through. fruit. $5752007 HHHH Jubey fruit aromas with Lovely zippy, dark, Nice edgy tannins. $400 Greenock CreekBig, youthful, licoricey a peppery note. Long, licoricey fruit with the Roennfeldt Roadwine. Very dense, oak-driven palate, on the perfect level of stylish Shiraz 2004 HHHHchocolaty, dark fruit nose savoury side. $120 oak. Has some traces of Huge dusty oak matchedand what was described Grant Burge dried herbs and some by dense, inky fruit withas a “joyously sweet Meshach Barossa very good tannins. Still a sweet raisined notespalate” with quite exotic Shiraz 2005 HHH youth! $499 and plenty of alcoholcharacters and a hot Hot, ‘blocky’ number with heat. Old-fashioned stylefinish. $169.99 succulent, ripe, spicy Domaine Auguste of shiraz. $270Kilikanoon R plum fruit developing Clape Rhone Cornas Cathcart RidgeBarossa Valley earthy complexity. $145 2006 HHHHH Estate The GrampianShiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Dry River Lovat Almost sooty, inky nose Shiraz 2008 HHHSpicy/dusty oak on the Vineyard Amaranth with lovely lifted floral/ Gently spiced, silky-nose, followed by a ripe, Martinborough violet aromas. Firm and smooth shiraz withsyrupy palate with lovely Syrah 2006 HHH tannic in the mouth, lots of vanillin oak andfleshy fruit flavours. $114 Sweet, syrupy, toffee with a great acid spine plummy fruit. $420Rene Rostaing aromas and an intense and plenty of bright, Clarendon HillsFrance Cote-Rotie concentration of flavours spicy, perfumed, plum- Astralis Syrah2006 HHH1/2 on the long palate. $115 like flavours. $210 2006 HHHAromas of pepper and E.Guigal Vignes Exotic earthy/iodine nose,cherries, and a vibrant, De L’Hospice leading to a slightly cloying,acid-driven palate full of France Saint-Joseph complex palate. $515slightly feral, savoury/ 2006 HHH Cathcart Ridgemeaty flavours. $151 Spicy, perfumed Estate The Grampian bouquet and beautifully Shiraz 2003 HHH textured, oak-dominated Slightly perfumed aromas palate with velvety and a “ballsy” palate tannins. $190 full of confectionery- Thomas Hardy sweet black fruit. Getting Wines Dizzy 201 tired. $385 Shiraz 2005 HHH Cathcart Ridge Complex wine with Estate The Grampian vegetal hints, slight Shiraz 2002 HHH meaty intensity and Varnishy development some greenness. $195 on the oaky nose and Haskell Pillars sweet varietal fruit on Vineyard Series the palate, with tarry Stellenbosch Syrah elements. $380 2007 HHH Complexity of spicy/ vegetal aromas. Silky- smooth in the mouth, with lean, spicy, green flavours. $140126 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

Shmiraatazz-a! - client:No matter what your price range at Sip’n Save Cellars project manager: you’re sure to find a shiraz that’ll dazzle you. production: creative director: art director: notes: copywriter: proof (No.): art dept: date: 13/07/10 size:Alberton Hotel Alberton Glenelg North Fine Wines Glenelg North Largs Pier Hotel Largs Bay O’Sullivans Beach Liquor Store Port Noarlunga Hotel Port Noarlunga proof reader:Aldgate Pump Hotel Aldgate Great Northern Hotel Port Lincoln Lincoln Cellars Port Lincoln Renmark Hotel RenmarkArkaba Hotel Fullarton Hamood’s Plonk Prospect Maid of Auckland Edwardstown O’Sullivans Beach Royal Hotel TorrensvilleBarossa Brauhaus Angaston Hutt Street Cellars Adelaide Marion Hotel Mitchell Park OG Hotel Klemzig Sip’n Save Cellars UnderdaleBelair Hotel Blackwood Ian’s Western Hotel Port Augusta Marryatville Hotel Marryatville Old Spot Hotel Salisbury Heights Sip’n Save Cellars West BeachBlue Gums Hotel Fairview Park Lakes Resort Hotel West Lakes Mount Gambier Hotel Mt Gambier Parade Cellars Norwood South Eastern Hotel Mt GambierBridgewater Inn Bridgewater Pastoral Hotel Port Augusta St Peters Cellars St PetersBritannia Hotel Norwood Stirling Hotel StirlingChalla Gardens Hotel Croydon West Sip’n Save supports the responsible service of alcohol. Torrens Arms Hotel KingswoodClark’s Cellars Barmera Victor Hotel Victor HarborCriterion Hotel Gawler Waikerie Hotel Waikerie kwp!SIP10554Cross Keys Hotel Cavan Wellington EU Cellars North AdelaideFeathers Hotel Burnside Come in and nose around. SA’S LARGEST INDEPENDENT LIQUOR GROUP

119 TASTED77 AWARDEDSEMILLON & BLENDSThis year we were a little disappointed at the overall quality at thelower-priced end, but soon forgot this as we saw some brilliant winesas we moved up the ladder. These wines showed the typical citrusintensity of the variety and its ability to age gracefully and beautifully!SEMILLON De Bortoli Sacred Buller Beverford H by Haselgrove& BLENDS Hill Semillon Victoria Semillon Semillon SauvignonUNDER $10 Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH 2008 HHHH Sweaty and pungent9 TASTED Subtle fruit salad Quite complex aromas passionfruit and4 AWARDED aromas; slightly floral. with toasty, bottle-aged gooseberry aromas leadThere were a few Lots of brown lime-like characters. Vibrant, juicy onto a vibrant palateworthwhile wines here flavours. $7.50 palate with a complexity full of rich, lingering,but also some that lacked of citrus, lemongrass, sweaty, green peaintensity and vibrancy. Penmara Wines lime zest and toasty flavours. $12 The White Ribbon flavours. $13 Wangolina Station Warburn Estate Hunter Valley Semillon Sauvignon Gossips Australian Semillon 2009 HHH Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 Marlborough Lemon sherbet and Minerally green lime Semillon Sauvignon green bean nose, and nose with a herbal lift and Blanc 2010 HHH sweet lime cordial-like toasty edge. Generous Smells quite tropical, flavours. $9.95 tropical/melon palate with with estery overtones. a zippy finish. $14 Green apple/capsicum SEMILLON The Wine Society palate. Good acid. $5 & BLENDS Premium Selection $10 - $15 Tyrrell’s HunterAldi Stores Twisted Valley SemillonFork Semillon 17 TASTED 2009 HHHSauvignon Blanc 11 AWARDED Lots of quince-like2009 HHH characters on nose andSherbety/minerally Mixture of some nicely palate, layered with limesbouquet and zesty, vibrant balanced, light, fresh and nettles. $11.99lemon flavours with citrus citrus styles for easy Taylors Promisedaftertaste. $8.99 drinking but there were Land South Australia too many hard acid wines Semillon Sauvignon and even a few showing Blanc 2009 HHH sulphide overtones. Perfumed nose - smells like musk lollies. Similar characters on the palate. Citrusy end. $13128 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tastingCumulus Five SEMILLON Wyndham Estate Prince Hill Acrobat Tempus TwoFriends Central BLENDS SEA Semillon Semillon Sauvignon Copper Zenith HunterRanges Semillon $15 - $20 Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2009 HHH Valley SemillonSauvignon Blanc 2009 HHHH Nice nutty/toasty 2005 HHHH1/22009 HHH 13 TASTED Fresh and zesty citrus complexity developing Very complex noseChalky, sherbety nose and 8 AWARDED sherbet-like aromas, and on the citrusy nose, with an intensity ofgood balance of estery The judges found this a stylish fruit salad palate and a palate with lemon lemongrass, citrusfruit salad and tropical fruit group of blends a step with a slight herbal lift. acidity. $15 and toasty characters.flavours. $12.99 up from the previous Long and slightly drying Acid drives the veryPeter Lehmann one. There was better finish. $15.99 Hungerford Hill flavoursome toasty/Wines Clancy’s quality fruit but also Whistler Wines Fishcage Hunter lemon curd palate with itsSemillon Sauvignon better winemaking, with Audrey May Barossa Valley Semillon long, drying finish. $19.99Blanc 2009 HHH harmonious acidity and Semillon Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc Heritage WinesMinerally nose with slight plenty of length. Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 2009 HHH Barossa Semillonwoodiness that follows Estery/minerally Very juicy and complex, 2010 HHHHthrough to a grassy/ Audrey Wilkinson lemon sherbet aromas citrusy style with great Great example of theasparagus palate. $13 Hunter Valley and simple green flavours and lots of varietal. Smells ofChain of Ponds Marlborough bean/ripe lime palate austere acidity. $17.99 freshly cut grass withNovello Adelaide Semillon Sauvignon with a powerful hit of hints of beans andHills Semillon Blanc 2009 HHHHH flavour. $19 SEMILLON lemongrass. ExcellentSauvignon Blanc Very attractive, slightly Oakover Wines $15 - $20 balance of estery, acidic2009 HHH oily, nose smelling of Western Australia flavours. $15Lots of floral aromatics; passionfruit, gooseberry, Semillon Sauvignon 18 TASTED Chalkers Crossingestery and perfumed. limes and herbs. Great Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 11 AWARDED Hilltops SemillonDrying lemon sherbet array of rich, ripe fruit Quinces and apples on “When they are good 2009 HHHHpalate high in acid. $14 salad flavours with the nose, with some they are very very Lifted lemon andSt Hallett Poacher’s excellent acid backbone. toastiness. Attractive, good,” suggested green lime aromas.Blend Barossa Well-made wine. $19.99 well-balanced, clean, one judge. Different Zesty lemony flavoursSemillon Sauvignon crisp, green lime styles here, with some mingle with attractiveBlanc 2009 HHH flavours. $17.99 showing oak influences fruit salad characters.Quite intense green K1 by Geoff and others having bright, Good supporting acidbean/capsicum aromas Hardy Silver Label fruit-driven flavours. backbone. $18and flavoursome buttery Adelaide Hills VineCrest Barossapalate with steely Semillon Viognier Valley Semillonacidity. $14 2008 HHH 2007 HHHHTwo Rivers Hunter Good food wine with a Toasty/oaky nose withValley Semillon buttery/apricot bouquet very ripe, developedSauvignon Blanc and a luscious palate with pineapple fruit beneath.2009 HHH creamy mouthfeel. $18 Good length of soft,Intense, complex, Shaw Vineyard honeysuckle-like flavours.toasty lemongrass and Estate Winemakers Needs food. $16lime nose, and long, Selection Canberra Tempus Two Copperlingering, lemongrass District Semillon Zenith Hunter Valleyflavours. $14 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2007 HHHHTempus Two 2009 HHH Attractive delicate greenVarietal Semillon Nice blend of citrus apple nose. Great flavourSauvignon Blanc aromas with a slightly oily profile, lemony acid and2009 HHH character. Cut grass and toasty age. Great balanceNose like a lemon tart lime/lemon flavours. $15 between acid andwith hints of lime peel, residual sugar. $19.99followed by a sweet/sour fruit palate with JUDGEScrisp acidity. $14.99Matt Holdstock Neville Falkenberg Stephen BennettSenior Oenologist with Wine consultant. Formerly Consultant and contractthe Australian Wine senior winemaker for Ross winemaker. Has spentResearch Institute. Estate. Previously chief the past 15 years asHas vintaged in South Winemaker at Chain of consultant winemakerAustralia, Sonoma Ponds Wines for five years; in Eastern Europe,(California), and Bordeaux 31 vintages completed, including Bulgaria,(France). Associate judge with 26 years at Tollana Romania, Moldaviaat the Australian Small and Penfolds Wines. and Ukraine. Judge atWinemaker’s Show. Associate judge Adelaide Romania’s International and Canberra wine shows. Wine Show (2002-2006). September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 129

SEMILLON & BLENDSKettle Lane Hunter Wills Domain Stonehurst Cedar Were Estate Margaret GalafreyValley Semillon Margaret River Creek Hunter Valley River Semillon Reserve Western2009 HHH1/2 Semillon Sauvignon Semillon Chardonnay 2005 HHHHH Australia SemillonCitrusy, cut-grass style Blanc 2010 HHHH1/2 2009 HHH Fantastic nose - all malty 2009 HHHH1/2with great flavour Pungent concoction of Young, estery citrus/ and butterscotch-like Rich and complexlength. Some yeasty gooseberry, passionfruit tropical nose and soft, - followed by a long, style with toasty oakynotes to the nose and and asparagus aromas rounded, sweet fruit/ creamy palate brimming aromas showing agood balancing acidity and great intensity of vanillin oak palate. $20 over with beautiful toasty/ hint of honeysuckle.on the palate. $16.99 lychee, passionfruit malty flavours balanced Flavoursome tropical and lime juice flavours. Alkoomi Frankland by a crisp, minerally acid palate with well-handledBethany Slightly oily texture. River Semillon backbone. $22 oak, excellent structureBarossa Semillon Crisp acid. $21.50 Sauvignon Blanc McWilliam’s and good length. $222008 HHH1/2 Heidenreich Estate 2009 HHH Mount PleasantDeveloping bottle age The Old School Austere, mineral lime Lovedale Hunter Kelman Huntergives complex, toasty, Blackboard Blend style. Subdued nose and Valley Semillon Valley Semillonbrown lime aromas and Barossa Valley balanced acid/residual 2005 HHHHH 2010 HHHHrich, mouthfilling, honeyed Semillon Sauvignon sugar/fruit palate. $20.36 Great wine ageing Delicate citrus nose;citrus flavours. $18 Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 beautifully. Appealing hints of herbs and grass. Complex tropical aromas Grant Burge Zerk smoky/honeysuckle nose Feels silky in the mouthBarossa Valley mingle with estery, Barossa Semillon and a rich and generous and has zesty lemon/Estate Entourage herbaceous elements. Viognier 2009 HHH palate showing loads lime flavours and leanBarossa Valley Good semillon varietal Ripe, perfumed apricot of flavours and lovely acid spine. Good ageingSemillon 2009 HHH flavours. Great food fragrances and a palate toastiness. Very elegant, potential. 5+ $22Musk lollies merge with wine. $20 with rich mouthfeel with a great finish. $21.99lemon sherbet aromas, and flowery/tropical Whistler Wines Coolangatta Estatewhich are echoed on the flavours. $22 The Reserve Estate Growncrisp acid palate. $15 Barossa Semillon Shoalhaven Coast SEMILLON 2008 HHHH1/2 Semillon 2008 HHHHPertaringa Bonfire $20 - $25 Great colour - almost Intensely complexBlock Adelaide fluro-green. Nose bouquet with earlySemillon 2009 HHH 22 TASTED has a complexity of stages of toastyNutty nose with marzipan- 14 AWARDED honeysuckle, cashew development happening.like notes. Woody palate nut, green bean and Loads of flavourshas sweet varietal fruit Excellent flight grassy notes, which matched by fresh, livelyflavours showing. $18 offering great value follows through to the acid. Still a baby! $22 at the top end. “Nice very stylish palate. $21Coolangatta Estate source material here,” Two RiversEstate Grown noted one judge. The Reserve HunterShoalhaven Coast good wines showed Valley SemillonSemillon 2009 HHH complexity of fruit and a 2007 HHH1/2Simple citrus/tropical degree of fresh acidity, Toasty lemon/limenose. High-acid palate or a nice oak balance or richness on the nosewith long, lingering, fresh great ageing potential. and some smoky baconvarietal flavours. $19 Or all of the above! flavours on a creamy palate with crisp acidity.De Bortoli Hunter McGuiganValley Semillon Bin 9000 Hunter 5+ $202007 HHH Valley SemillonCitrus dominates the 2007 HHHHHnose and has some Excellent intensity oftoastiness. Long, lean, ripe citrus/lemon curdgreen apple palate will aromas with a minerallyage well. $19.50 character. Beautiful, seamlessly balancedSEMILLON palate with long, lingeringBLENDS lime and lemongrass$20 - $25 flavours and crisp acidity.11 TASTED 5+ $205 AWARDEDThe panel wasdisappointed. “Theprevious blend pricecategory offered bettervalue and quality,” saidone judge. “You expectto see something foryour money.”130 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tasting Pokolbin Estate Phil Pokolbin Estate Swannell Hunter Ken Bray Hunter Valley Semillon Valley Semillon 2008 HHH 2009 HHH1/2 Very good young Light, lemony nose and semillon that will rich, complex palate with get better and more big, punchy, mouthfilling approachable as it ages fresh lime and lemon further. $22 flavours. $25 Stonehurst Cedar Briar Ridge Dairy Creek Hunter Valley Hill Single Vineyard Semillon 2007 HHH Hunter Valley Lifted, toasty, fruit-driven Semillon 2009 HHH nose. Lovely mouthfeel, Complex wine that fresh lime fruit flavours, has flavour and length, good acid. $20 with a slight toastiness starting to develop. $29 SEMILLONBunnamagoo Estate $25 - $30 Wills Domain GartelmannMudgee Semillon Margaret Benjamin Hunter2009 HHH 11 TASTED River Semillon Valley SemillonLimes and lemons on 10 AWARDED 2007 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHHnose and palate, with Great consistency here. Fantastic green colour. Intense asparagus andchalky characters on the Excellent examples of the Smells of lemons, canned pea aromas withnose. Lemon acid on the variety, with great flavour butterscotch and a perfumed lift. Morefinish. $21.95 intensity and length. buttered toast. Palate asparagus on the palate,Ernest Hill Cyril has richness and fullness mixed with snow peaPremium Hunter Pokolbin Estate Phil with well-handled oak notes. Excellent youngSemillon 2010 HHH Swannell Hunter and developing toasty wine. $25Citrus nose has subtle Valley Semillon complexity. $25herbal characters. Palate 2006 HHHHH Capercaillie Hunter Coolangatta Estate Hungerford Hillaustere, with citrus “An excellent wine,” Valley Semillon Estate Grown Hunter Valleydominating. $20 declared one judge. 2008 HHHH1/2 Shoalhaven Coast Semillon 2009 HHHAudrey Wilkinson It has aromas of Intense, lifted aromas Semillon 2003 HHHH Crunchy citrus nose andWinemakers lemon tarts laced of grass, herbs and Powerful perfumed lovely long lemon sherbetSelection Hunter with honeysuckle and honeysuckle with lift to the citrusy nose.Valley Semillon developing toasty/ nice nutty smokiness Palate has loads of2009 HHH butterscotch nuances. developing. Lovely flavour and plenty ofDeveloped citrus aromas Loads of flavour and still fresh, vibrant palate has character, with a spinewith some subtle oak. amazingly fresh. $25 intensity of flavour and of green apple-likeTastes like a lemon great acidity. $25 acidity. $27sorbet. Great acid/sugar McGuigan Vineyardbalance. $22 Select Hunter Valley palate. Has plenty ofCoolangatta Estate Semillon 2005 HHHH potential. 5+ $25Individual Vineyard Toasty green appleWollstonecraft nose and lively spunky STAR RATINGS Shoalhaven Coast mealy/malty palate withSemillon 2009 HHH more of the green apple Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofSubtle nose smelling characters. Five years excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.of cut grass and green old and still a baby! $25 All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industrybeans. Very acidic, professionals and are compared in peersherbety palate. Needs classes by three judges.time. $22 CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. CDO Cellar door only. SO Sold out. $N/A Price not available at time of printing.  Contact information pg 160. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 131

SEMILLON & BLENDSPokolbin Estate Allandale Hunter Pokolbin EstatePhil Swannell Valley Semillon Hunter ValleyHunter Valley 2004 HHHHH SemillonSemillon 2009 HHH One judge described 2005 HHHH1/2Again, a nice citrus the nose as “smelling Smells like butteredcrunch to the nose, with of figs and citrus tarts”. toast spread with greenthe citrus characters Lovely developed limes! Vibrant, fresh anddominating the palate. $25 secondary characters lively palate brims over showing. Creamy in the with flavour. ExcellentSEMILLON & mouth, with deliciously example of an agedBLENDS $30+ long, aged, toasty/citrus Hunter semillon. $30 flavours. $30 Saddler’s Creek18 TASTED Wines Classic14 AWARDED Coolangatta Estate Hunter Semillon Estate Grown 2005 HHHH1/2“A pleasure to taste,” Peter Lehmann Shoalhaven Very well made variety Bimbadgen Estateenthused one judge. Wines Margaret Coast Semillon with intense lime juice- Signature McDonalds“Some outstanding wines Barossa Semillon 2006 HHHH1/2 like fruit characters, Road Vineyardhere with exceptional 2005 HHHHH Very youthful and pleasant toasty Hunter Valleyintensity.” Consumers Big hit of butterscotch, intense wine with development and good Semillon 2007 HHHHshould try some of these limes and green apples lovely aged toastiness spine of crisp acidity Powerful lemon sherbetto see what the variety lifts out the glass. developing. Toasty citrus to balance it out just nose with muskycan produce. Few white Fantastic palate loaded nose and loads of citrus perfectly. $33 fragrances. Lovelyvarieties age as well as with great limey/apple and toast on the palate. Saddler’s Creek austere mineral/citrussemillon when grown in flavours with chalky/ Brilliant finish. $30 Wines Reserve palate that has greatthe right area. mineral-like elements. McWilliam’s Hunter Semillon vibrancy and finesse. $40 Has a long life ahead of Mount Pleasant 2003 HHHH1/2 Forester Estate it yet. $30 Elizabeth Hunter Fantastically fresh for Margaret River Valley Semillon a seven-year-old, with Semillon SauvignonAllandale Hunter De Bortoli 2006 HHHH1/2 loads of intense lemony/ Blanc 2009 HHH1/2Valley Semillon Murphy’s Vineyard Big hit of butterscotch lime fruit, super toasty Pungent tropical nose2005 HHHHH Lovedale Semillon and honeysuckle aromas development, lovely with herbaceous layers.Top example of an 2004 HHHHH layered with attractive use of oak and excellent Sweet, rich flavours withageing semillon. Very impressive and toastiness. Rich mouthful acidity bringing it all slightly sweaty notes andIncredible intense extraordinarily complex of malty, butterscotch together. $36 good mineral acidity. $30sweet citrus aromas and style with a developed characters with bright Coolangatta Estategorgeous green lime lemon essence-like lemony notes. $65 First Creek Estate Grownpalate that’s “fresh as”. bouquet and a generous Winemaker’s Reserve ShoalhavenPerfect balance and rich chalky/mineral/lime Semillon 2010 HHHH Coast Semillontoastiness. Could live palate with a long, Delicate floral/citrus 2005 HHH1/2forever! $30 warming finish. $35 nose but it has intensity Touch medicinal on and some complexity. the nose, with a well- Good length of pristine balanced palate showing varietal fruit on the toasty lime flavours palate, with crisp acidity driven by the acidity. $30 to balance. $30 Fermoy Estate Reserve Margaret River Semillon 2008 HHH Developed, toasty bouquet with slight mintiness and some attractive nutty/malty flavour. $37132 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

We’re proud of our family www.hahnbar ossa.comhistory with it’s strong linksto the Barossa Region; this Phone: (08) 8562 3002 Fax: (08) 8562 1111 Email: [email protected] reflected in the way we TRADE AND EXPORT ENQUIRIES: Erica Babbage Mobile +61 437 130 672grow our grapes and makeour wine. Winery - Neil Hahn Mobile 0408 828 536 or +618 8562 3002“Because we’re makingwine of the best quality,we start by growing thebest quality grapes.Using techniquesdeveloped during sixgenerations of viticulturalexperience, we pruneand nurture our vines toproduce the low-yield,highgrade fruit fromwhich we create ourwine. From vine to wine,we strongly believe inthe importance of ourpersonal involvementand supervision.”Over the last few years wehave changed our focusmarkets and now to reflectthis, we are in the processof changing our Brandingto “Neil Hahn Wines”. Thefirst wines under the newlook labels are proudlydisplayed on our website.

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINYARRA VALLEY & SOUTHERN VICTORIATHE ART OF DINING BEST CELLARS mini-loaf of sourdough bread. On Thursday, Friday and Monday there may be someTARRAWARRA Estate is one of the most THERE has been plenty of cellar door snacks, along with good coffees and cakes.popular destinations in the Yarra Valley, activity on the Mornington Peninsula, withwith its fine wines supplemented by an the opening of Port Phillip Estate’s superb “Closing the restaurant has just changedimpressive art gallery and restaurant. new cellar door and restaurant and Willow the focus a little,” says Kate McIntyre,Opened more than 20 years ago by Marc Creek and Moorooduc Estate both unveiling daughter of winery founder Richardand Eva Besen, with wines now made by new cellar door facilities. McIntyre. “The focus now is very much on theClare O’Halloran, the Yarra Glen property is wines, which are the core of the business -open Tuesday to Sunday from 11am-5pm. Willow Creek, where former Stoniers star and our previous cellar door never really did Geraldine McFaul is now the winemaker, has the wines justice.” Moorooduc Estate is at TarraWarra’s restaurant, known as the Wine undergone a major facelift with a renovated 501 Derril Rd, Moorooduc; phone (03) 5971Bar Cafe, serves modern Australian food cellar door and homestead, a new-look 8506; www.moorooduc-estate.com.au.and features magnificent views as well as Salix Bistro and a new deck. Rather than theopen fire and terrace. Seasonal, local and previously cramped facilities, there’s plenty LOAM LOOMS LARGEestate-grown produce is available for lunch, of space at the cellar door with a U-shapedprepared by Kevin Henderson and recent bluestone tasting bench. The room opens up THERE is a huge buzz about Loam, an excitingaddition Robin Sutcliffe, the former executive onto Salix Bistro, with vineyard views beyond. new restaurant on the Bellarine Peninsula.chef at the Healesville Hotel. General manager It might be difficult to leave the cellar doorSimon Napthine says having two top chefs on fireplace, but a visit to Salix Bistro is hard to Talented chef/proprietor Aaron Turnerboard helps TarraWarra “continue to head in go past for its grazing dishes and share plates. has worked at two of the world’s topa direction of having contemporary, seasonal restaurants, El Celler de Can Roca in Spainfare that complements our wines”. Expect to The cellar door, bistro and restaurant are and Noma in Denmark, and is surroundedfind dishes like a duck pithivier with salt and open daily and the upmarket restaurant by a keen young team. Choices range fromsugar-cured duck breast and a sweet spiced also serves dinners on Friday and Saturday two-course express lunches to seven-dishcarrot and pomegranate salad; roasted lamb nights. Willow Creek is at 166 Balnarring degustation dinners featuring local producecutlet and cannelloni of braised shoulder with Rd, Merricks North; phone (03) 5989 7448. and heirloom vegetables grown on site.peas, pancetta and mint, or grilled Atlanticsalmon served with a warm salad of cumin- At Moorooduc Estate, Jill’s restaurant has With views over the olive groves to Corioroastedbeetroot,fettaandcapers.Analacarte closed along with the accommodation but Bay, it is part of the Lighthouse olive grovemenu is available on weekdays and Sundays, there are still great pizzas and platters at complex. Two-courses cost $35 and sevenandthere’satwo-course“expressmenu”lunch weekends (noon-3pm) and some very nifty courses $90. There’s also a small al a carteand glass of wine for $50 at either 12.15 or wines to taste in the new facility, situated in the menu and an impressive wine list.2pm on Saturdays. TarraWarra Estate is at 311 original winery. If you want to eat (SaturdaysHealesville-Yarra Glen Rd, Yarra Glen; phone and Sundays only) check out dishes like the Aaron was head chef at Athelstane House(03) 5962 3311; www.tarrawarra.com.au. sottobosco pizza (mushroom, truffles and in nearby Queenscliff before heading off to parsley) or the pork and veal terrine served Europe to hone his craft, and he and his wife with cornichons, homemade chutney and a Astrid, at front of house, produce dishes like pan-fried mulloway on avocado puree with134 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

travelbriefs Eldridge Estate, meanwhile, has a purely wine focus, with a range of pinots featuring different clones and winemaking techniques - and one of Australia’s best gamays. See www.eldridgeestate.com.au. Eldridge winemaker David Lloyd, a fount of knowledge on all Peninsula pleasures, urges visitors to try some of the lesser-visited food, wine and accommodation attractions, singling out the Two Buoys, a tapas restaurant/ wine bar at Dromana that’s “trendy, buzzy with great food in portions that encouragechar-grilled asparagus, roasted suckling offers 91 guest rooms in an elegant, historic exploration and a wine list that is maturingpig with seared cantaloupe, goat’s curd and setting. The main mansion dates back to the nicely” and The Orchard, a boutique bedfennel pollen, or beef tongue with garlic puree. 1870s and is cleverly linked with modern hotel and breakfast at Red Hill South “that alwaysThe ambience may be rustic but the food is andspafacilitiessetwithinexpansivegardens. gets huge compliments from our visitors”.assured, looks good and is flavoursome. See www.lancemore.com.au/mansion/. See www.twobouys.com.au and www. innhouse.com.au/orchard.html. Loam is at 650 Andersons Rd, Drysdale, SMALL PLACES,and is open for lunch Thursday to Sunday and BIG SURPRISES Left: The Mansion at Werribee Park exterior.dinner Friday and Saturday. Phone (03) 5251 Right: Moorooduc Estate cellar door & exterior.1101; www.loamrestaurant.blogspot.com/. THE MORNINGTON Peninsula has several “must-visit” destinations, including Port Opposite page. Left: Morning Sun vineyard.MANSION’S NEW Phillip Estate, but there are also several Right: Lindenderry External at night.MANAGEMENT smaller cellar doors that offer personalised experiences. Among the stars of a recentTHE MANSION Hotel and Spa at Werribee visit were Main Ridge Estate, Paringa Estate,Park, adjacent to the Shadowfax cellar door, Eldridge Estate and Morning Sun Vineyard.is now part of the Lancemore Group, whichoperates a portfolio of hotels that also includes Main Ridge Estate is a tiny space whereLindenderry at Red Hill on the Mornington Nat White, one of the region’s wine pioneers,Peninsula, Lindenwarrah at Milawa and pours his own wines, which are of superbLancemore Hill in the Macedon Ranges. quality, with Burgundian-style chardonnays and pinot noirs. See www.mre.com.au. Formerly a Sofitel, the hotel has gonethrough several changes over the past Paringa has a cellar door with extremelyfew years but the new owners aim to retain knowledgeable staff, superb pinots andthe core attractions, including Joseph’s shiraz, and new chef Shane Smith is servingRestaurant & Bar and The Spa. Lancemore some excellent food in the restaurant - hisGroup CEO Julian Clark says he expects take on beef tartare is superb. See www.The Mansion to remain one of the leading paringaestate.com.au.conference, events and weddings venuesin Australia. “We will continue to manage the Morning Sun, where Michael Kyberd,hotel in the way that it has been for the past 10 ex-Red Hill Estate, is the new winemaker,years, ensuring that its outstanding reputation has a cellar door that is open seven days ain the marketplace is upheld,” he says. week, serves northern Italian-inspired food in its Osteria (think dishes like polenta fries Michael Paul Edwards, most recently of with a blue cheese dipping sauce or wood-the Shanghai Marriott Hotel Hongqiao in fired pizzas) and also offers a pair of three-China, is the new manager. bedroom apartments with vineyard views. See www.morningsunvineyard.com.au. The Mansion Hotel & Spa at Werribee Park September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 135

151 TASTED97 AWARDEDYA R R A VA L L E Y& SOUTHERN VICTORIAWe are always excited at the opportunity to taste the SAUVIGNON PINOT GRIS/chardonnays and pinot noirs from this region and this BLANC GRIGIOjudging again showed the class that this region provideswith these varieties. In the warmer years, cabernet also 6 TASTED 11 TASTEDperforms well and shiraz is gaining popularity! 3 AWARDED 5 AWARDEDSPARKLING RIESLING A bit disappointing from some The judges found lots of mixed- tough years for the variety. up styles here. The better wines7 TASTED 3 TASTED The better wines were true were “slippery” in texture, with varietals with nice fresh flavours. freshness and lively and pretty4 AWARDED 2 AWARDED aromatics. But too many were too ripe or over-oxidised.Mixed bag of generally mid- “A pat on the back here for Yarrawood Tall Tales Galli Estate La Famigliaweight, easy-drinking styles. these producers,” said one Yarra Valley Sauvignon Range Sunbury PinotYarra Burn Yarra Valley judge. “These are excellent Blanc 2009 HHHH Grigio 2010 HHHHPinot Chardonnay Pinot for rieslings from a region not Layered and complex wine Very fragrant nose smelling ofMeunier 2007 HHH1/2 recognised for this variety.” more interesting than the violets and rose petals. VeryWell-made, young, simple obvious fruit bomb styles. Fresh good soft, sweet/crunchy fruitsparkling smelling of apples and Granite Hills apples and passionfruit with palate with a slight savouryhoney with toasty notes and silky Macedon Ranges Riesling grassy notes. Drink soon. $17 finish. $20and creamy in the mouth. $28 2009 HHHH1/2 Yarrawood Yarra Valley Very pretty wine with gentle Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Underground WinemakersMacedon Ridge Macedon aromas of limes and lantana Aromatic floral/passionfruit Offspring Mt Eliza PinotRanges Brut 2005 HHH1/2 flowers. Bone-dry palate with bouquet and attractive fresh, Gris 2008 HHH1/2Tight lime/citrus style with lovely delicate, spicy flavours juicy floral palate. $14 Well-made, pretty wine withherbal elements. Creamy palate and juicy acidity to balance. $22 De Bortoli Estate Growntexture with excellent crisp, Pettavel Evening Star Yarra Valley Sauvignoncrunchy acidity. $38 Geelong Riesling Blanc 2008 HHHKillara Estate Yarra Valley 2009 HHH1/2 Juicy, balanced and ripe, withRosetta Dolce 2008 HHH Interesting, balanced wine. smoky/meaty nose and veryPink and pretty with attractive Quite developed and showing dry style of palate. $25rose petal/strawberry aromas. typical honeyed/kero agedSweet palate - rich and characters and some nice bright musky/perfumedopulent. $30 florals. $18 aromatics and nice palateYarrabank Yarra Valley texture and flavour. AgeingSparkling Cuvee 2005 HHH well. 3-5 $22Apple green wine withhoneyed lime aromas andlight, tight, fruity flavours. Veryinteresting. $38136 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

regional tastingFrench Island Vineyards SEMILLON Giant Steps Sexton De Bortoli Estate GrownPinot Gris 2009 HHH SAUVIGNON Vineyard Yarra Valley Yarra Valley ChardonnayPlush, juicy, creamy wine full of BLANC Chardonnay 2008 HHHHH 2008 HHHHhoney, pears, citrus and sweet Serious wine with loads Delightful wine with anapricot elements. $21 1 TASTED of character and excellent interesting complexity of lantana, 1 AWARDED potential. Aromas of lemon curry leaf and dried herb-likeFrench Island Vineyards curd, barrel ferment characters aromas. Very pretty nutty oakPinot Gris 2008 HHH Goona Warra and fragrant oak. Beautifully palate with good acidity. $30Touch of kero on the honeyed Vineyard Sunbury balanced, creamy palate with Yering Stationnose, and fresh sweet pears on Semillon Sauvignon Blanc great depth of flavour. $35 Yarra Valley Chardonnaythe oily textured palate. $21 2008 HHH1/2 Galli Estate Artigiano 2007 HHHH Light, fresh and juicy blend Range Sunbury Generous oaky style but the oakYarra Burn Yarra Valley with pleasant citrus bouquet Chardonnay 2009 HHHH is in balance with the austere,Pinot Gris 2008 HHH and crisp, light, sweet Very pretty minerally/citrus nose apple blossom-like fruit. AgeingPleasant varietal with complex pineapple flavours. $18 and sweet and simple juicy nicely, with complexity building.perfumed/floral/spicy nose and apple/citrus palate with subtlealluring peach/lime flavours. $27 CHARDONNAY toasty notes. Ageing gracefully, 5+ $28 with years ahead. $30 Foxeys HangoutVIOGNIER 31 TASTED Mornington Peninsula 22 AWARDED Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/23 TASTED “Smells like a pear tart,”2 AWARDED Strong and consistent class suggested one judge. Oak of high-quality chardonnays. tends to dominate the palateSmall group with a couple of “Oak was nicely restrained and but there’s pleasant fruitwell-made and quite diverse deftly used,” noted one judge. beneath. $25wines: one rich and creamy the Southern Victoria produces Yarra Burn Yarra Valleyother spicy and savoury. some of the best chardonnays Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 in the country! Some very pretty lime/nectarine-De Bortoli Estate Grown like varietal fruit here but it tendsYarra Valley Viognier to be dominated by the oak for2008 HHHH the moment. Time! $27Light, fresh, minerally style Crittenden Estatewith good varietal aromas with Mornington Peninsulaa warm and silky palate that, Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2according to one judge, “Has Powerful honeyed characterssomewhere to go.” $25 to the nose, with sweet, juicy apple/melon flavours on a tight and slippery palate. $34Cahillton deja vu Yarra Seville Estate Yarra Valley Lindenderry Mornington Giant Steps TarrafordValley Viognier 2008 HHH Chardonnay 2008 HHHHH Peninsula Chardonnay Vineyard Yarra Valley Well-made, powerful varietal 2006 HHHH Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 with great funky characters and Very interesting nutty/nougat- Oak dominates the honeyed plenty of cellaring potential. like nose layered with wild nose but there’s powerful Spicy/floral nose and sweet ferment characters. Spicy oaky up-front fruit on a palate with fruit palate with balancing palate, quite warm, with some lingering limey acidity. $40 smoky oak. A touch hot from funky complexity showing. $25 Clyde Park Locale the alcohol. $30 Bannockburn GeelongPleasant, viscous ‘sun-kissed’ Chardonnay 2009 HHHwine with a classic creamy Elegant style, with aromas of preserved citrus and soft, pleasant, simple varietal flavours. $20apricot palate. 3-5 $22.50 Adriano Marchioro Steve Flamsteed JUDGES Winery manager at Winemaker for Giant Witchmount Wines and Steps and Innocent Mark O’Callaghan cellarmaster for MoMo Bystander Wines. Winemaker/Manager restaurant in Melbourne. Originally a chef, he moved for Yarra Burn Winery. Sommelier at Flemington through winemaking and Completed the Evans Racecourse. Associate cheese making studies. Editorial in 2007. Panel judge at Ballarat and the Has judged at various chairman of the Victorian Victorian Wine Show. Has shows including Sydney Wine Show. Associate completed nine vintages in International, Victoria and judge at the Adelaide and Geelong, Great Western, Yarra Valley shows. National Wine Shows. Gippsland and Sunbury. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 137

YARRA VALLEY & SOUTH E RN VIC TORIAClyde Park Estate Balgownie Estate Toolangi Yarra ValleyBannockburn Geelong Yarra Valley Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2006 HHHHChardonnay 2009 HHH 2008 HHH Nutty nose with earthy/spicyNutty, toasty nose and creamy- Very moreish, funky, oaky wine notes. Very pleasant savourytextured palate with smoky oak with class, length and great palate showing some age.notes. $35 acidity. $29 Has fruit sweetness and good oak balance with a pleasantAlden Park Mornington Witchmount Olivia’s finish. $35Peninsula Chardonnay Paddock Chardonnay Coldstream Hills2008 HHH 2008 HHH Yarra Valley Pinot NoirClosed nose and tight palate Honeydew melon fruit with Giant Steps Sexton 2008 HHHHwith sweet/savoury fruit and subtle oak and nice spicy notes Vineyard Yarra Valley Solid, dark red wine withbuttery/toasty oak. $18 with balancing acidity. Lovely Pinot Noir 2008 HHHH1/2 brooding stewed fruit aromasDe Bortoli Gulf Station wine. 3-5 $29 Earthy/spicy nose - quite truffle- and a big, powerful palate thatYarra Valley Chardonnay like. Rich, chewy palate with shows balance and restraint with2008 HHH Granite Hills Nardoo good depth and complexity of a good tannic finish. $34.99Lovely savoury fruit, with oak Macedon Ranges sweet fruit and oak, excellent Tollana Robinsonsitting in the background and Chardonnay 2007 HHH tannin structure and lingering Family Vineyardgood fresh acid backbone. Aromas of dried figs and some finish. $40 Mornington PeninsulaClassy! $19 nice juicy sweet varietal flavours Pinot Noir 2008 HHHHNorthway Downs with prickly acidity. $18 Warm, well-made wine withEstate Schindler well-handled fruit and oak. LotsMornington Peninsula Stefani Estate of lovely cherry, fresh dates,Chardonnay 2008 HHH The View Yarra Valley plums and spicy characters withNice simple varietal with Chardonnay 2006 HHH funky, earthy elements. $39.99restrained pineapple aromas Amazing nose - savoury and Giant Steps Tarrafordand flavours with light oak oaky with gunsmoke elements. Vineyard Yarra Valleynotes. $20 Creamy palate has squeaky- Pinot Noir 2008 HHHHUnderground Winemakers clean acid. $45 Bright, light and perfumedMs Thug Mt Eliza rhubarb nose with a lovelyChardonnay 2008 HHH ROSE Underground Winemakers creamy palate - silky-smooth inSlight tropical elements to the Thug Mt Eliza Pinot Noir the mouth, with good varietal fruitnose, followed by a soft, juicy, 3 TASTED and nice long, wide tannins. $45fruit-driven palate. $22Goona Warra Vineyard 2 AWARDED UndergroundSunbury Chardonnay Winemakers Black2008 HHH 2008 HHHH & White Label Mt ElizaLighter, savoury style, with Big, ‘New World’ style with ripe, Pinot Noir 2008 HHH1/2a touch of smoky wood Foxeys Hangout vibrant, fruit-driven nose and Bright, spicy, rhubarb nosebalanced by elegant grapefruit Morninton Peninsula Rose rich, robust, flavoursome palate. with rich, earthy notes. Quitecharacters. $25 2009 HHH Still youthful. Plenty of cellaring complex oaky palate. HasSilverwood Estate Sweet cherries and ahead of it yet. 3-5 $22 length, structure and warmingMornington Peninsula strawberries on the nose and alcohol. $16Chardonnay 2008 HHH simple, chunky sweet/sour Killara Estate Yarra Valley French Island VineyardSimple oak and simple fruit palate. $20 Pinot Noir 2008 HHHH Pinot Noir 2008 HHH1/2balanced by juicy acidity results Slightly volatile, fragrant, Bright, fruit-driven style within a very nice wine. $28 Lindenderry Mornington perfumed nose and pretty attractive varietal fruit and some Peninsula Rose 2009 HHH combination of currant/ Asian spice elements. Nice oak Pretty wine with focused blackberry fruit and toasty oak and drying tannins. $23 floral/strawberry aromas and flavours. Good example of a Immerse Oscar’s Reserve flavours. Spicy finish. $20 lighter style of pinot. $25 Yarra Valley Pinot Noir Clyde Park 2008 HHH1/2 PINOT NOIR Reserve Geelong Pinot Brooding, earthy nose and great Noir 2008 HHHH richness on the long, lingering 32 TASTED Very well-made, powerful, palate. Oak prominent but 22 AWARDED full-bodied, thick and chewy there’s sweet fruit in there. $32 wine with delicate fruit, velvety “Some really nice drinks here,” tannins, nice oak useage and said one judge. Very consistent strong acid spine. $49 group balanced with restrained rather than big, dry red fruit and with appropriate oak levels.138 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

regional tastingCrittenden Estate Balgownie Estate Yarra Clyde Park Estate Geelong Yarravale Yarra ValleyMornington Peninsula Valley Pinot Noir 2008 HHH Pinot Noir 2008 HHH Tempranillo 2008 HHH1/2Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Spicy fruit-cake nose and Big wine with savoury/earthy Savoury tarry/licorice aromas andFunky, spicy prune fruit, subtle sweet varietal fruit palate with nose and rich, woody palate with a long, lingering, well balanced,oak and high level of acid. Nice balancing acid and tannins. $29 generous level of tannins. $37 spicy/sweet palate with juicywine. $34 Yarra Burn Yarra Valley tannins and warming alcohol. $33Clyde Park Locale Geelong Pinot Noir 2008 HHH OTHER REDPinot Noir 2009 HHH Lighter, spicier, Beaujolais-like VARIETALS CABERNETBig, juicy, full-bodied style style with a pretty, fragrant & BLENDS BLENDSwith slightly raisined black fruit nose and creamy palate. $32characters and drying acid/ Silverwood Estate 5 TASTED 11 TASTEDtannins. $20 Mornington Peninsula 3 AWARDED 7 AWARDEDYarrawood Tall Tales Pinot Noir 2008 HHHYarra Valley Pinot Noir Very savoury style, with Interesting group of genuinely Killara Estate2008 HHH brooding fruit and nutty/roasted different wines that are Yarra Valley CabernetCassis and kirsch on the nose coffee oak to balance. $36.50 worth trying. Merlot 2008 HHHH1/2and well-balanced, ripe, spicy, Lindenderry Nicely focused blackcurrant/rhubarb palate. $20.50 Mornington Peninsula Witchmount Estate tarry/mocha aromas. Long,St Huberts The Stag Yarra Pinot Noir 2007 HHH Tempranillo 2009 HHHH balanced palate brimming overValley Pinot Noir 2008 HHH Berry nose with a spicy lift, and Rich, chocolaty nose with a with soft, juicy, cherry and spiceMeaty/earthy wine with savoury/spicy palate showing spicy lift. Dense and inky on flavours and a dash of pepper.subdued nose and simple, ripe some menthol greenness. $38 the palate, with rich berry Mid-palate sweetness. $25and chewy palate. $23.99 Lindenderry fruit, smoky oak, firm, savouryYering Station Yarra Valley Mornington Peninsula tannins and loads of acid. $29Pinot Noir 2008 HHH Pinot Noir 2006 HHHSmells of wine gums, with Interesting earthy and Coldstream Hills Yarrasubtle oak in the background developed wine that’s soft and Valley Merlot 2008 HHHHand alluring sweet/spicy fruit chocolaty, juicy and long. $35 Good solid varietal fruit withflavours. $28 lovely chocolaty oak to balance. Smoky notes on the nose and attractive drying tannins on the palate. $34.99 wine snobs — we nose best —Welcome to the world of wine snobsOrder any 12 bottles of wine from our huge selection to receive our super prices. We will then deliver it free straight to your door anywhere in Australia within 5 to 7working days. Ordering 12 bottles of wine will give you access to our huge range of discounted spirits which we will also deliver free. Join our Loyalty program to startearning reward dollars.MOËT AND CHANDON TAYLORS WINE SNOBS NV BRUT IMPERIAL CABERNET SAUVIGNON SECRET SELECTIONS $57.99 $15.99 MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC with any 12 with any 12 bottles of wine bottles of wine $11.99 purchased purchased with any 12 bottles of wine purchased PENFOLDS HENNESSY DE BORTOLIGRANGE 2005 XO 700ml NOBLE 1 375ml $549.99 $194.99 $25.99 with any 12 with any 12 with any 12 bottles of wine bottles of wine bottles of wine purchased purchased purchased LIMITED STOCK Winestate Reviewed WinesAny wine you see reviewed in winestate magazine, we can get the wine in for you and deliver it free of charge straight to your door. Jump on our website below and use our product request tab to send through what wine you are after. winesnobs.com.au September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 139

YARRA VALLEY & SOUTH E RN VIC TORIAGiant Steps Harry’s SHIRAZ BLENDSMonster Yarra ValleyCabernet Sauvignon Merlot 4 TASTEDPetit Verdot Cabernet 3 AWARDEDFranc 2008 HHHH Same as for cabernet…one set ofSlightly leafy style with reviews for blends and straights.some licorice notes on the De Bortoli Gulf Stationnose. Palate has length and Yarra Valley Shirazcomplexity. Elegant and Viognier 2008 HHHHrestrained wine with sweet/ Robust blend with generoussour flavours. $45 blackcurrant/licorice fruit balanced by smoky oak. NiceSt Huberts Cahillton deja vu Yarra Yering Station creamy texture in the mouth.Yarra Valley Cabernet Valley Cabernet Merlot Yarra Valley Cabernet Good commercial style. $19Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 2006 HHH Sauvignon 2008 HHHH Yarra BurnFresh, bright, leafy Lovely evolved, savoury nose Quite meaty nose with some Yarra Valley Shirazaromas. Simple palate with and generous, juicy, briary fruit spicy capsicum nuances. Viognier 2006 HHH1/2good fruit weight and juiciness. palate. Very balanced and with Complex spicy/licorice palate. Seamlessly balanced, generousDrying tannins. Good savoury a hot end. $22.50 The wine improves with some wine with attractive tarryend. $32.99 air, so decant before drinking. characters on the nose and an elegant sweet fruit palate. $26 3-5 $28 Yering Station Yarra Valley Heathcote Shiraz De Bortoli Melba Reserve Viognier 2007 HHH Yarra Valley Cabernet Ripe plum fruit profile - still very Blend 2007 HHH fresh - with good flavour focus Savoury wine. High level of and great palate texture. $28 acidity and mouth-puckering tannins. Quite developed. $45 SHIRAZHuma Yarra Valley CABERNET Yarrawood 21 TASTEDCabernet Merlot SAUVIGNON Yarra Valley Cabernet 14 AWARDED2006 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2005 HHH1/2 Strong class, with niceBlackcurrant varietal fruit still 12 TASTED Savoury edge to the nose, and representation from Sunburyvery fresh, with cigar box oak 6 AWARDED sweet, chocolaty palate with and other Southern Victorianand nice savoury tannins. Has good varietal fruit and great regions. Great use of oak thatlength and complexity. $10 Very strong class at the top tannin length. 3-5 $14 allows the fruit to express itself.Pettavel end of the range, with unripe, “Some very good drinking to beEvening Star Geelong weedy wines at the lower end. Witchmount Lowen Park had here,” said one judge.Cabernet Sauvignon The high scorers had fragrance Cabernet 2008 HHHMerlot 2008 HHH and length of palate. Savoury, meaty cabernet. Minty Goona WarraBright fruit bomb! Raisined lift to the nose and fine-grained Vineyard Sunbury Shirazcharacters on the nose and a St Huberts tannins on the palate. $18 2008 HHHH1/2spicy palate. Easy drinking. $18 Yarra Valley Cabernet Soft and simple wine with Sauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2 Redbox Reserve lovely peppery fruit intensity on Classic blackcurrant fragrances. Yarra Valley Cabernet the nose and a rich, chocolaty Very interesting long, tight, Sauvignon 2008 HHH palate loaded with juicy varietal juicy, rich palate with slightly Lightweight, elegant wine fruit flavours and showing a chalky tannins and very fresh, with lovely fragrant clove/ savoury lift. $32 lifted sweet/sour fruit flavours. cinnamon aromas and a Long life ahead. $32.99 warming palate. $24 STAR RATINGS  Coldstream Hills Yarra Valley CabernetThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Sauvignon 2007 HHHexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Fresh, ripe blackcurrant noseAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry and acid-bright palate withprofessionals and are compared in peer sweet varietal fruit and goodclasses by three judges. tannins. 5+ $34.99CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 160. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).140 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

regional tastingYarrawood Tall Tales Yarra Koonara Bay Galli Estate Lorenzo Yarravale Reserve YarraGlen Shiraz 2008 HHHH of Apostles Geelong Riserva Range Sunbury Valley Shiraz 2006 HHHBlack and brooding berry Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Perfumed fruit bouquet andaromas verging on beetroot. Lots of oak and very good Berry/cherry nose and spicy, simple oaky palate withLong, layered palate with a jubey fruit tending towards the savoury palate. Robust, spicy fresh, slightly subdued, fruitsavoury edge to the sweet dark end of the spectrum. Nice characters. Good example of a flavours. $33toffee/apple fruit flavours. licorice complexity. $20 cool climate shiraz. $42 Pettavel Southern EmigreChewy tannins. $20.50 De Bortoli Estate French Island Vineyard Geelong Shiraz 2006 HHHHuma Yarra Valley Grown Yarra Valley Syrah Shiraz 2008 HHH Smells of stewed fruit andShiraz 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Earthy/medicinal/minty/spicy - toffee. More stewed fruitSpicy, fragrant, medium-bodied Big juicy/spicy shiraz. Nose the whole package. Soft and a on the palate, with a spicystyle. Described as a “lipstick looking quite aniseed-like. Nice little herbal. $23 element. $42and fresh vanilla bean nose” earthy oak with red fruits in Galli Estate Artigiano Granite Hills Nardooby one judge, it has a sweet balance. $30 Range Sunbury Shiraz Macedon Ranges Shirazfruit palate with good balancing Witchmount Estate Shiraz 2007 HHH 2004 HHHoak. $10 2008 HHH1/2 Very savoury nose and Very spicy, peppery shiraz. Good focus and concentration medium-bodied, long and juicy A “pretty package” holding of musky/rose petal fruit palate with beautiful white together very well. Bright acid, characters. Some powerful oak pepper elements. $26 fine tannins. $26 and good level of acidity. $33 Seville Estate Old Vine Coldstream Hills Reserve Yarra Valley SWEET WHITE Reserve Yarra Valley Shiraz 2006 HHH Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Vanilla bean aromas with a 1 TASTED Spicy, fruit-driven style with touch of black pepper. Some 1 AWARDED quite a chewy, savoury texture. developed savoury/earthy fruit Still showing good freshness flavours. $60 Pettavel Evening Star Late for an ‘07. $39.99 Harvest Riesling 2009 HHH Floral/lime cordial aromas and pleasant sweet citrus palate with crisp acid backbone. $18a wine cabinet to suit 32bforttootml8e6s0your lifestyleCT Series CabinetsUnbeatable value forglass-door wine cabinetsPeltier CabinetsLong-life, no vibration,Peltier coolingWineVac CabinetsUnderbench unitswith integrated winepreservation systemKITCHENER Phone 03 9459 2999. Details of our range and pricing are available online www.kitchenerwinecabinets.comWINE CABINETSMORE THAN PREMIUM WINE STORAGE September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 141

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINRIVER REGIONS - SA, VIC & NSW MANOR FROM HEAVEN MILDURA offers myriad delights for food and wine lovers and, if you want to be in the centre of the action, Misty’s Manor Mildura is one of the better options. Misty’s offers a luxurious apartment within a short walk of shopping, restaurants, clubs and pubs. The Murray River, too, is just a stroll away. With a bedroom decorated in a Scottish theme, this self-contained, adults-only getaway features a well-appointed kitchen,CRUISE TO YOUR TABLE pate, Spanish salami, pickles, corned beef dishwasher, pantry and full-sized fridge/ and horseradish served with bread and freezer, while the living area has TV andCOMBINE a cruise on the Murray River on crackers. www.trenthamestate.com.au. DVD/CD players.the historic paddleboat, the PV Rothbury,with a hearty meal at Trentham Estate winery. ITALIAN TRADITION Continental breakfast provisions areThe five-hour return day cruise, upstream AND STYLE included in the price and guests are greetedfrom Mildura to the award-winning estate, with wine and savoury snacks. Tea, coffeeincludes a two-course barbecue lunch WESTEND Estate is one of the quiet and robes are all provided, while thewith salads, a tour of the winery and a wine achievers of the Australian wine industry, bathroom has a double shower and walltasting. The cruise departs every Thursday with the family-owned Griffith winery spa. There’s has secure off-street parking,from the Mildura Wharf at 10:30am and producing a steady stream of medalreturns at 3:30pm. The adult fare is $60, winners. Established in 1927 by Francescowith a range of concession tariffs. and Elizabeth Calabria, newly arrived migrants from Italy, after they purchased a The Rothbury was built in 1881 at five-acre block at the western end of town,Gunbower, Victoria, and towed barges for the the winery became known as Calabriawool and logging trades. The vessel has been Wines. The name was changed to Westendbased at Mildura for over 100 years but lay Estate in 1974 by Bill Calabria, the teetotalleridle for several years before being restored who remains chief winemaker.in 1968, retaining its original wheelhouseand top-deck cabins. For bookings contact The estate’s cellar door facility, fashionedMildura Paddlesteamers on (03) 5023 2200 in Tuscan style, is one of the most popularor www.paddlesteamers.com.au. Riverina destinations for wine lovers, with huge double-fronted doors opening into an For those lacking the time for a river cruise, elegant, oak-panelled tasting area. Floor-to-Trentham Estate, off the Sturt Highway at ceiling wine shelves flow along each wall inTrentham Cliffs in NSW, is open for lunch and the shape of a serpent, curving in and out,catered barbecues from Tuesday to Sunday. while large artworks and colourful murals by local artists add to the atmosphere. The Lunch can be enjoyed in the restaurant adjacent function room can accommodateor on the balcony, with choices including 200 people and includes a wood-firedthe likes of spinach and ricotta dumplings pizza oven.baked with a Napolitano sauce, mushroomrisotto, spaghetti marinara, sticky lemon There’s also a covered outdoor area wherechicken served with herb pilaf and Persian visitors can enjoy a picnic or barbecue withfetta, or an aged Scotch fillet. a bottle of Westend wine. Westend Estate is at 1283 Brayne Rd, Griffith; phone (02) Another favourite is the shared Trentham 6969 0800; www.westendestate.com.au.Platter, which includes chicken andpistachio terrine, pork and duck rillettes,142 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

travelbriefs DIP INTO A BIG FOOD BOWL enabling guests to combine business with pleasure - and pets are also welcome. RIVERINA Grove is a one-stop shop for There’s an LCD TV with surround sound, fine produce and gourmet foods from a second TV and DVD, a gas barbecue, the Riverina region, which is known as covered entertaining area and full kitchen Australia’s food bowl. The region produces and laundry facilities. It can accommodate the majority of Australia’s rice, more than 25 between one and 10 guests. Rates start per cent of NSW fruit and vegetables and from $175 per night for a couple, including an amazing 80 per cent of the state’s wine provisions for a cooked breakfast. Discounts and table grapes. are available for stays over six days. Pied-a- Terre is at 97 Chaffey Ave, Mildura; phone Riverina Grove products include pasta (03) 5022 9883; www.piedaterre.com.au. sauces, antipasti ingredients, olives, plumsa courtyard with outdoor furnishings, gardens in port and other specialities like garlic mixes A TASTE OF HISTORYand a barbecue under a wisteria vine. Misty’s and bakery goods from local icon Bertoldo’s,is at 14 Olive Ave, Mildura; phone (08) 8588 as well as other regional produce. The VISITING Lindemans Karadoc cellar door8041; www.mistysmanormildura.com. shop is in Whybrow St, Griffith, and is open is a trip through 150 years of Australian 9am-5pm on weekdays and 9am-noon on winemaking history. Set back from theHIT THE TASTY TRAIL Saturdays. Phone (02) 6962 7988; www. Murray River, the cellar door offers tastings riverinagrove.com.au. and the chance to buy wines that areECHUCA-MOAMA has launched a new available exclusively on the premises. In aFood and Wine Trail brochure aimed at AN IDEAL SECOND HOME picturesque garden setting, it has functiongiving visitors a taste of the best of the facilities that can cater for groups of 30 toregion. The trail visits local wineries and PIED-A-TERRE, which means “second 80. On Edey Rd, Karadoc, the cellar dooreateries that offer intimate food and wine home” in French, is in the heart of Mildura, open 10.30am-4pm weekdays and noon-experiences - and includes several of the just metres from the Murray River. It aims to 4pm on weekends. Phone (03) 5051 3333;local boutique wineries, including Cape offer the perfect “home away from home”, www.lindemans.com.au.Horn, Chanter Estate, Hopwood Winery, with stylish, modern accommodation inJaengenya and Morrisons Riverview. a suburban home and is within walking Above: Westend Estate exterior.Several local companies, including Echuca distance of all Mildura’s attractions, including Below: Lindemans Karadoc cellar door.Limo Tours, Echuca Moama Wine Tours and Stefano’s restaurant, Stefano’s Cafe Bakery, Opposite page. Above: The historic paddleboatEchuca Moama Bus Tours, offer tours of and the New Spanish Bar and Grill. Rothbury. Centre: Misty’s Manor kitchen/lounge.the region. The brochure can be obtained Below: Misty’s Manor bedroom.from the Echuca Moama and District Visitor The five-bedroom home, beautifullyInformation Centre on 1800 804 446. appointed inside, also has an office and complimentary broadband wireless, September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 143

110 TASTED64 AWARDEDRIVER REGIONSGenerally speaking, these are our everyday-drinking De Bortoli Banrock Station“house wines”. And don’t they offer us great value? Sacred Hill Traminer Mediterranean CollectionThese are built for fresh and lively drinking, without Riesling 2008 HHH1/2 Savagnin 2009 HHH1/2pretension or drama and rarely disappoint as lunch Perfumed, rose-like aromas Lemon sherbet aromas andwines, particularly when we compare them to the with intense dried apricot/ interesting and very persistentacid-water quaffers of the Old World! muscat flavours on a soft and guava-like flavours with light creamy palate. $7.50 lime-like notes. $14.99SPARKLING OTHER WHITE BLENDS OTHER WHITE Banrock Station7 TASTED VARIETALS Mediterranean Collection4 AWARDED 6 TASTED Fiano 2009 HHH1/2 3 AWARDED 12 TASTED Pungent lemony nose withThe best here had fresh fruit 8 AWARDED light herbal notes and someintensity. There were a couple For blends the wines need to Huge diversity of varieties, with creamy, floral-like flavours.with nice yeast complexity and be balanced and fresh - and good examples across the board. “Quite different,” said onea very good sparkling red. these were! “Some of the new varieties judge. $14.99 showed promise if handledParinga South Australia correctly,” said one judge. 919 Vermentino 2009 HHHSparkling Shiraz Floral/herbal bouquet with a2008 HHHH1/2 Trentham Estate Viognier dash of oak. Similar palate.Rich, licoricey aromas with 2009 HHHH1/2 Good weight and balance. $30a dash of pepper and spice. Delightful, distinctive,Generous and complex palate perfumed Turkish delight-like Trentham Estatewith lovely long, ripe berry fruit bouquet. Palate light, vibrant La Famiglia Vermentinoflavours and good weight of and crisp, with elegant, sweet, 2009 HHHripe tannins. $10 tropical-like flavours. Nice oily Elements of apples, mangoes mouthfeel. $16 and pears on nose and palate.Paringa Vineyard De Bortoli Sacred Hill McGuigan Victoria Pinot Good acid balance. $16Select South Australia Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Grigio 2009 HHHHChardonnay Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH Quite an almond character to Dos Rios Swan Hill2009 HHHH Long, balanced and very the nose, which follows through Viognier 2007 HHHWell-made, balanced wine flavoursome. Smells of limes to the palate and mingles with Slight fish oil/seaweed-likewith a great nose; smells of and tastes very citrusy. Soft pear and apricot flavours. Long, traces on a lemony nose. Up-marmalade and strawberries, in the mouth, with a creamy fresh acid finish. $15 front pear and honeysucklewhich are echoed on a texture. Very stylish. $7.50 De Bortoli Deen Vat 6 flavours. $18reasonably long palate. $10 McWilliam’s Inheritance Verdelho 2009 HHH1/2Banrock Station Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Traces of honeysuckle on the SAUVIGNONSparkling Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 tropical/oak nose. Powerful BLANCPinot Noir NV HHH1/2 Lifted floral/musky nose and soft, oak palate with pleasant pomePear and citrus aromatics with simple palate with attractive, fruits underneath. $12.90 7 TASTEDa soft, creamy fruit palate, slightly oily, melange of peach/ 3 AWARDEDyeasty complexity and nice citrus/tropical flavours. $4.55crisp acid. Easy drinking. $9.50 Lots of bright tropical fruitQuarisa Johnny Q varietal character in this group.Sparkling Brut NV HHH “Good winemaking here,”Tropical bouquet with a perfumed commented one judge.lift and well-balanced, creamycitrus/tropical palate. $11.99144 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

regional tasting Whispers SEA ROSE Chardonnay 2009 HHH Oaky, citrusy bouquet with a lift 2 TASTED of cinnamon. Loads of tropical 2 AWARDED flavours with a dash of oak. $4.99 De Bortoli Sacred Hill A couple of very nice vibrant, Chardonnay 2009 HHH fresh fruit styles. Just what the Peach and citrus aromas with doctor ordered! oaky notes. Creamy palate - bright with fresh aromatic fruit. $7.50Banrock Station Deakin Estate Banrock Station White Buller Wine Club CellarSauvignon Blanc Chardonnay 2009 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Door Release Swan Hill2009 HHHH Creamy butterscotch nose Fresh, lifted, raspberry Zinfandel 2009 HHHHLifted grassy/gooseberry nose and slightly oily, complex and confectionery nose with very Crisp, vibrant, bright purpleand refreshing, vibrant melon savoury palate. Would be great fresh and appealing vibrant wine with aromatic blackcurrantflavours. Some sweetness with food. $10 berry flavours and refreshing and plum aromas and flavours.but plenty of crisp acidity to Trentham Estate acidity to balance. Lovely long, Silky-smooth palate, rich withbalance. Easy drinking. $9.50 Chardonnay 2009 HHH fruity finish. $9.50 black fruits. $28 Attractive citrus aromas withLindemans Bin 95 hints of perfumed oak. Crisp, De Bortoli Sacred Hill De Bortoli Deen Vat 1Sauvignon Blanc up-front, peach/citrus/floral Rose 2009 HHH Durif 2008 HHHH2009 HHH palate. $16 Jubey, lolly-like berry nose, with Big oaky/plum style. LicoriceSmells of canned asparagus pleasant sweet raspberry flavours characters on the nose and aand dried herbs and tastes Buller Sinister Man Victoria and crisp acid spine. $7.50 chewy tannic palate with goodmuch the same. Lingering Chardonnay 2008 HHH balance between oak and fruit.finish. $9.99 Toasty/oaky nose and OTHER RED Drink with red meat! $12.90 reasonable weight of toasty/ VARIETALS Yarran Wines LeopardMcWilliam’s Hanwood peachy flavours with a dash of Reserve Yenda RiverinaEstate Sauvignon Blanc spice. $10 8 TASTED Petit Verdot 2008 HHHH2008 HHH 7 AWARDED Berries, spices and a trace ofHerbal notes on the nose, violets obvious on the nose.with toasty aged characters Strong class of interesting red More violets show up on thedeveloping. Similar palate. varietals offering great value! flavoursome, plummy, tannicDrink now. $8.99 “Try before you buy,” was the palate. Some ageing evident. $14 judges’ advice.CHARDONNAY11 TASTED6 AWARDEDSome good integrated fruit wineshere, although a few were over-oaked or forward in development.Angove FamilyWinemakers ButterflyRidge South AustraliaChardonnay 2008 HHH1/2Complex, buttery/toasty nosewith honeyed charactersdeveloping. Soft in the mouth.Good toasty/peach flavours. $7.25 JUDGESAdam Clay Rod Hooper Eric SemmlerPenfolds winemaker in Chief winemaker/ Proprietor of 919 Winethe Barossa Valley. Has consultant Beelgara Company. Formerlycompleted vintages at Wines. Also winemaker winemaker for the HardyMarchesi de Frescobaldi for Macaw Creek Wines. Wine Company. Previouslyin Chianti and Pellegrin in Judge at the national with Brown BrothersCalifornia. Judge at the small winemakers wine and Auldstone Cellars.Alternative Varieties show show, Cowra & Griffith Has spent eight years asand Cairns wine show. wine shows. fortified winemaker for Hardys. Associate judge at Rutherglen, McLaren Vale and Riverland shows. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 145

RIVER REGIONS919 Durif 2006 HHH1/2 MERLOT & BLENDS Quarisa 30 Mile Lindemans Bin 50Fragrant, chocolaty nose SEA Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2009 HHHwith nectarine notes. Rich 5 TASTED 2008 HHH Light, elegant and very pleasantplum palate with firm tannic 1 AWARDED Tarry, leathery nose and wine with sweet oak and spicystructure. Oak is there but flavoursome tarry/ripe black fruit. $9.99subtly handled. $33 Disappointing, but this is also a fruit palate. Firm tannins. $9.99 reflection of this difficult variety, 919 Shiraz 2008 HHHTrentham Estate Petit where clonal selection is critical. Paringa South Big coconut oak style withVerdot 2008 HHH Australia Cabernet some rich cherry fruit showingNose has big, oaky notes and Beelgara Estate Range Sauvignon 2008 HHH a menthol note. $33hints of violets, followed by a Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 Berries and spices on thefresh and fragrant palate. $16 Bright red wine with berry/ nose and very attractive tarry Beelgara Estate Range herbal notes and soft, blackcurrant/olive flavours. $10 Shiraz 2008 HHHDe Bortoli Deen Vat 4 flavoursome strawberry/plum Subtle plum notes on the nosePetit Verdot 2007 HHH fruit palate with reasonable Buller Beverford and seamless balance of plumRich, ripe and balanced with weight. $8.99 Victoria Cabernet and oak flavours. $8.99light berry/plum aromas and Sauvignon 2008 HHHflavours. Holding up well but CABERNET Sweet oak and green olive McWilliam’s Hanwooddrink soon. $12.90 & BLENDS bouquet and a big, oaky palate Estate Shiraz 2007 HHH full of rich berry fruit. $13 Generous wine, still vibrantDos Rios Swan Hill 13 TASTED with well-balanced fruit/oakLagrein 2007 HHH 6 AWARDED Bookpurnong Hill Block aromas and flavours. Fine“Wow, an exciting wine style - 267 Riverland Cabernet tannins. $8.99very different,” noted one judge. Some well-made commercial Petit Shiraz 2005 HHHLooks excellent for an ’07. $20 styles here without great Generous, complex wine with Salena Estate Riverland complexity. “Technically plenty of spicy berry fruit and firm Shiraz 2007 HHHTEMPRANILLO these are well made at a price tannins. Holding up well. $29 Simple and soft, mature wine offering great value for regular with berry fruit sweetness and5 TASTED quaffing,” said one judge. SHIRAZ & BLENDS firm tannins. Ageing well. $14.992 AWARDED Whispers SEA Cabernet 18 TASTED Dos Rios Swan HillMixed results. A variety for Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 10 AWARDED Shiraz 2006 HHHthe future but more work Vibrant, minty, berry fruit Very bright for a four-year-old.needs to be done. nose with a savoury olive-like The judges found these a Loads of oak and pleasant, lift. Stylish and youthful palate better class than the cabernets. Cherry Ripe-like flavours. $20Banrock Station has persistent black olive There was more consistencyMediterranean Collection flavours. $4.99 overall, with good mid-weight Dos Rios ReserveTempranillo 2007 HHH commercial flavours. “Very few Swan Hill Shiraz ViognierHints of extracted ripe plum/ Beelgara Estate faults. What you are seeing are 2006 HHHblackcurrant aromas and a soft, Range Cabernet Merlot lighter but well-made wines for Lovely aged chocolaty/licoricedeveloped, fruity palate. $14.99 2009 HHH regular easy drinking at great characters with amazing amount Soft, spicy plum aromas and value prices.” of sweet fruit for an ’06. $20Tempus Two Copper lovely soft palate with sweetRange Victoria oak dominating. $8.99 McWilliam’s Inheritance SWEET &Tempranillo 2007 HHH Shiraz Merlot 2009 HHHH FORTIFIEDPerfumed/earthy aromas Bright purple wine with pepperyand mature, leathery palate fruit aromas and spicy red 16 TASTEDshowing some classic fruit flavours with soft tannins. 12 AWARDEDcharacters. $15 Medium-bodied style that has length and finesse. $4.55 Fantastic class of sweet and STAR RATINGS  fortified wines, in which the Quarisa 30 Mile SEA warmer inland regions excel.Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Shiraz 2008 HHHH But along with great fruit, thisexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Vibrant ripe berry notes lift off requires great winemaking andAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry the licoricey nose. Generous understanding of the style - whichprofessionals and are compared in peer fruit flavours with chocolaty this flight delivers in spades!classes by three judges. development. Firm tannins and Some outstanding value wines.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, a long finish. $9.99a major mail-order business. 919 Classic MuscatCD Cellar door price. Lindemans Bin 55 Shiraz NV (500ml) HHHHHCDO Cellar door only. Cabernet 2009 HHH As the name says - a classicSO Sold out. Spicy fruit nose and silky- style! Beautifully fresh$N/A Price not available at time of printing. smooth palate with soft complex muscat bouquet with blackberry/plum fruit. Well- floral highlights. Lusciously Contact information pg 160. made wine. $9.99 rich flavours resembling aniseed and raisins. Very fresh RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). - very intense. $35146 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

regional tastingPenfolds Bluestone Grand Beelgara Frizzante Beelgara Estate RangeTawny NV HHHHH Moscato 2010 HHHH1/2 Late Harvest RieslingExcellent example of a tawny Good fresh muscat style with 2010 HHH1/2style. Complex nutty/fruit/oak lovely lifted Turkish delight/ Slightly steely, citrusy estersaromas followed by an intense rose water bouquet. Sweet on the nose and some verycomplexity of aged toffee/ sherbety flavours of musk and sweet lemon flavours balancedraisined fruit flavours that linger roses, perfectly balanced by with crisp acid. $8.99on and on. $23.99 crisp acidity. $14.95Saddler’s Creek Trentham Estate 919 Classic Tawny Deakin Estate MoscatoBotrytis Supreme Noble Taminga 2006 NV (500ml) HHHH 2009 HHH1/22008 (375ml) HHHHH (375ml) HHHH1/2 Rich spicy/chocolaty nose with Limes on the nose with muskyRich and very powerful wine Intense, complex characters hints of citrus and spices. Great nuances. Sweet fruit palatebrimming over with complex of figs, citrus rind and honey. caramel/toffee flavours, some with attractive lemon zestflavours of apricot-like botrytis Fresh, lifted aromas and lush rancio and spicy aged fruit. Quite acidity. $10and complex marmalade concentration of fresh, lingering hot with a drying finish. $30characters. Great structure. $36 flavours not overly sweet but Penfolds Club Reserve919 Fino NV more Sauternes-like. $16 Classic Tawny NV HHHH(500ml) HHHH1/2 Smells of spices andFresh, nutty nose with a nice marmalade. Soft and complexyeasty lift. Palate fresh, nutty and in the mouth, with an elegantdry, with lingering persistence of structure and showing lovelysweet lemony/seaside flavours. orange rind and raisined fruitVery long, dry finish. $25 flavours. $14.99919 Vintage Fortified Penfolds Club2006 HHHH1/2 Tawny NV HHH1/2Smells of brandy and Dark fruit-cake-like bouquetblackberry jam. Tastes of and soft, sweet, aged caramellicorice and blackberries - rich, flavours with good spirit/oakcomplex and spicy. $35 integration. $11.99A real wine cellar, not just a wine sellerAustralia’sBest RetailOutlet 2009*Discover the most interesting wine and spirit storein the country for everyday bargains, hard to findwines and special back vintages.EXPERT STAFF - EXCEPTIONAL SERVICEBest Australian Retail Outlet 2009, 2008, 2006, 1999, 1996*Edinburgh Hotel and Cellars, 1 - 7 High Street Mitcham, South Australia 5062Ph + 61 (0) 8 8373 2753 Fax + 61 (0) 8 8271 8904 Email: [email protected] Website: www.edinburgh.com.au*Australian Hotels AssociationTheEd_halfhoriz2.indd 1 September/October 2010 W I N E 2S4/T7/A09T3E:51:27 P1M47

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINHAWKE’S BAYGREAT DESIGN, GREAT FOOD Designed by renowned architect Paris soy glaze on parsnip puree with wilted Magdalinosanddecoratedwithlocallyinspired spinach, field mushroom salad and portELEPHANT Hill is an impressive new winery furnishings, the apartment is a short walk from wine jus, or fish of the day on potato pureeand restaurant complex on the beautiful Te the seaside village of Ahuriri’s waterfront cafes, with roquette and crispy bacon, searedAwanga Coast that produces estate-grown restaurants,artgalleriesandantiquestoresand scallops and bearnaise sauce.wines and offers an impressive tourism just five minutes’ drive from the city.experience. The views of the Pacific Ocean The wine list features several localand Cape Kidnappers are spectacular - and Guests are invited to enjoy a glass of boutique producers, including Boundaryworth a visit on their own - while lunches complimentary Ash Ridge Vineyards wine Vineyards, Crab Farm and Coupers Shed.are served daily and dinners nightly during on the deck - where there is a gas-firedhigh season, with night service reduced barbecue - and the apartment is perfect The dining room seats only 32, so bookingsduring the winter to Wednesday-Saturday. for a group of up to eight friends wishing to are recommended. Fox on the Quay is at explore the many nearby vineyards. Peak 14 West Quay, Ahuriri; phone +64 6 833 The stunning contemporary design, with 6520; www.foxonthequay.co.nz.pre-aged copper-clad buildings, blends season tariffs are from $450 (including GST)into the environment and surrounding vines, per night for up to six people. Off peak rates CELEBRATING THE OLIVEand is matched by modern food offerings. are also available. One East is at 22 HospitalChef Ashley Jones serves choices like Terrace, Napier; phone + 64 21 451 482; HAWKE’S Bay will host the New Zealand Olivesmoked venison carpaccio with daikon and www.oneeast.co.nz. Festival at Sileni Estates winery from 10amhorseradish cream; roasted beetroot and to 4pm on September 18, with input fromgoat cheese salad with candied pecans; FINEST FARE AT THE FOX both Venture Hawke’s Bay and the Blossomor salmon with courgette fettuccini, white Festival. Food Hawke’s Bay is managing thebean puree and salsa verde for lunch - with NAPIER’S top restaurant, according to the event, which Geoff Crawford, a director atdishes matched with wines by the glass. very opinionated globetrotters who provide Telegraph Hill olive farm, says is a “must do”At dinner, expect choices like spanner crab their thoughts to international travel website for New Zealand foodies, ith leading chef Rexcakes with onion and caper salsa, or maybe TripAdvisor, is Fox on the Quay, which Morgan a star attraction. Jane Libby, generalpork fillet with shallot jam, tempura apple and offers fine dining in a relaxed ambience. manager of the Food Hawke’s Bay group, saysmustard-crushed potatoes. Desserts are a Proprietors Shane and Heather Fox say their the event will showcase the region’s assets.speciality here. Think pecan pie, pumpkin and philosophy is “fine food, casual dining”, and “Collectively, Hawke’s Bay is the best food andbutterscotch ice cream or bruleed banana, they aim to use local Hawke’s Bay produce wine region in New Zealand, and by frequentlycoconut sago and amaretto anglaise. and ingredients when possible. adding fantastic events to our calendar we continue to build on this reputation.” The winery and restaurant are the dream There are tapas, brunch and dinner menusof principal owners Reydan and Roger with evening starters featuring dishes like The festival will include children’s activities,Weiss, who fell in love with the Hawke’s Bay smoked fish and mussel chowder with fresh olive oil tastings, olive grower stalls andregion when visiting from Germany in 2001. bread, or venison carpaccio with saffron olive appreciation workshops, cooking“We want the very best experience for our aioli and salad leaves. Main choices may demonstrations, food and entertainmentvisitors so that they leave with wonderful include pan-roasted duck breast with honey and is part of a larger event weekend on thememories of our wines embodying the final days of the Hastings Blossom Festival,complete Elephant Hill Estate experience- finest wines, stunning views and perfectdining,” they say. Elephant Hill Estate is at 86Clifton Rd, Te Awanga, Hawke’s Bay; phone+64 6 873 0400; www.elephanthill.co.nz.STAY AT GREG’S PLACEMOTOR racing driver Greg Murphy rentsout his holiday pad, One East Apartment,outside Napier, when he’s not in town. High onNapier Hill. One East offers two levels of luxuryaccommodation with three double bedrooms,expansive decks and panoramic views.148 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

travelbriefs A LONG, LONG COMFORTABLE CONTRASTS LUNCH - LITERALLY IN ADDITION to its many wineries and THE CJ PASK Winery will host the Great cellar doors, Hawke’s Bay has a wide Long Lunch on March 6 next year in the range of accommodation for visitors, Marine Parade Gardens in Napier, where ranging from motels to guesthouses. One 800 guests will enjoy a sumptuous three- of the most popular and highly acclaimed course meal and wines in a picturesque is the oceanfront Pebble Beach Motor setting at a table that stretches for almost Inn on Napier’s Marine Parade. Right in 250m, while a band provides entertainment. the centre of the action, and just a stroll The cost is $100 per person. See www. from the Art Deco buildings, it features napierinthecity.co.nz/news_and_events/ 25 suites with their own balconies and events/cj_pask_winery_great_long_lunch. ocean views.which features concerts, parades and artexhibitions and runs from September 10 to19. See www.blossomfestival.co.nz.STAY CLOSE TO TOWN Another great food and wine event in the region The 17 studio suites are for one or two is the fourth annual Hawke’s Bay Regional people and have fully equipped kitchens,MAISON Bearnaise in Napier is a traditional Signature Dish event, which runs from en suite bathroom with bathrobes andbed and breakfast with two guest bedrooms, September 10 to October 20. The region’s top rainforest showers, and large LCD TVsboth with views and en suite bathrooms. eateries and leading chefs will take part in the with cable channels. Prices range fromBreakfasts feature both home-grown and regionalbonanza,showcasingthebestoflocal $135 to $255 a night, depending on thelocal produce (the property has its own food and wine. An estimated 30 restaurants season. The eight family suites sleep up topotager garden) while the colourful gardens will take part, each with their own signature four and some boast freshwater spa pools.are a delight and the sunny courtyard dish. See www.foodhawkesbay.co.nz. Prices range from $165 to $295. See www.extremely popular. Hosts Christine Grouden pebblebeach.co.nz.and Graham Storer point out that downtownNapier, with its famous Art Deco buildings, In contrast, but equally popular, is Theis just a 10-minute walk away. Single rooms Landing, a chic bed and breakfast thatcost from $120 to $150 and doubles $160 opened less than two years ago. There areto $180. All have TV and DVDs, telephone, three funky suites and a choice of continentalhair dryer, heated towel rail and gas heating. or cooked breakfasts. There’s a lounge with giant TV, deck with panoramic views,NEW LUXURY CHOICE a lap pool, barbecue area and broadband internet. Rates change seasonally.THE PEOPLE behind the popular Millar Road See www.thelandingnapier.co.nz.villas and the & Co wine label have recentlylaunched a very stylish new self-contained Above: Elephant Hill Estate dining.luxury residence, Haumoana House, Centre: The Landing Napier studio accommodation.located in the Tuki Tuki Hills and overlooking Below: Sileni Estate.vineyards, orchards, farms and the Pacific Opposite page: Elephant Hill Estate at night.Ocean. Accommodating up to eight people,Haumoana House has three king bedrooms,two bathrooms (one en suite) and a studywith two roll-away beds. Guests can rentthe house, or the entire complex, which alsoincludes two villas. Facilities include SkyTV/DVD and wireless broadband internetconnection. See www.millarroad.co.nz. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 149

191 TASTED129 RECOMMENDEDH AW K E ’ S B AYChardonnay - predictably - dominated the white wine Alpha Domus The Aviatrix Church Road Cuve Hawke’sclasses, with an impressive haul of deliciously rich, ripe 2009 HHH Bay Pinot Gris 2008 HHHHand rounded wines. The judges also discovered many Fleshy blend of sauvignon blanc, Scented, distinctly mediumconcentrated, classy merlot and cabernet sauvignon- chardonnay and viognier, with style showing good weightbased reds, underlining Hawke’s Bay’s growing hints of biscuity oak on nose and and concentrated, ripe, slightlyinternational reputation for claret-style reds. Pernod palate. Shows good ripeness, honeyed flavours. Drinking wellRicard NZ, the country’s largest wine company, provided harmony and depth. $22.95 now. $26.95a stand-out performance under its Church Road, Couper’s Shed Hawke’sBoundary Vineyards and Couper’s Shed brands. Mission Reserve Sauvignon Bay Pinot Gris 2009 HHHH Blanc 2009 HHH Invitingly perfumed wine fromPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Weighty, with strong, tropical Pernod Ricard NZ with ripe stone-Wines available in export markets are shown as fruit flavours, seasoned with fruit, spice and ginger flavours.(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). toasty oak. Barrel-fermented Full-bodied, medium style with a style, well worth cellaring. $25 slightly oily texture and excellentSPARKLING Mission Vineyard delicacy and richness. $19.95 Selection Sauvignon Morton Estate White Label Church Road Hawke’s Bay3 TASTED Blanc 2009 HHHH Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Pinot Gris 2009 HHH1/22 RECOMMENDED Mouthfilling, bone-dry style with Blanc 2009 HHH Strongly varietal wine, ripe, tropical fruit flavours, woven Easy-drinking style, ripely mouthfilling, with fresh, gentlyMimi NV HHH1/2 with fresh acidity, slightly leesy scented, with satisfying depth sweet, peachy flavours and aAppetisingly crisp and vibrant, notes and a creamy texture. of tropical fruit flavours and a creamy-smooth finish. $26.95with citrusy, gently yeasty Tight, youthful and elegant, with soft, well-rounded finish. $16 Mission Hawke’s Bayflavours, showing very good obvious potential. $21.95 Pinot Gris 2009 HHH1/2freshness and immediacy. Fine Church Road OTHER WHITES Bone-dry style, medium-bodied,value from Morton Estate. $15 Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon with satisfying depth of fresh Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 4 TASTED citrus fruit and pear flavours andTrinity Hill ‘H’ Blanc Slightly sweaty aromas lead into 2 RECOMMENDED a crisp, lively finish. $18.95de Blancs NV HHH1/2 a mouthfilling wine with ripe, Selaks Winemaker’sChardonnay-based, with tropical fruit flavours, dry and Mission Hawke’s Bay Favourite Hawke’s Baylots of crisp, citrusy flavour. generous. Fresh and crisp, with Riesling 2010 HHH1/2 Pinot Gris 2009 HHH1/2Moderately yeasty and sweet-fruit delights. $26.95 Floral, light and lively, in a low- Mouthfilling, with good depth ofcomplex, very lively and Farmgate Hawke’s Bay alcohol, medium style. Fresh, clearly varietal, peachy flavours,refreshing. $29 (A, UK) Sauvignon Blanc vibrant, lemon and green apple a slightly oily texture and a 2009 HHH1/2 flavours, showing good vigour lingering, rounded finish. $20.99SAUVIGNON From Ngatarawa, a full-bodied and depth. $18.95 Trinity Hill Black LabelBLANC & BLENDS style with good depth of Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris vibrant, ripe, tropical fruit Abbey Cellars Hawke’s 2008 HHH1/211 TASTED flavours and a refreshingly Bay Riesling 2009 HHH Dry style with very satisfying7 RECOMMENDED crisp, dry finish. $21.95 Light to medium-bodied, with body and depth of ripe, citrusy a floral bouquet, splash of flavours, showing someSolid class in which the top Mission sweetness and limey, slightly complexity. Described by thewines were fleshy, dry and Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon toasty flavours. Quite forward judges as ‘distinctive’ androunded, in a ripely flavoured Blanc 2009 HHH1/2 and already enjoyable. $17.95 a ‘good food wine’. $34 (A, UK)style that is often enhanced by Scented, with fresh, ripe, Trinity Hill Hawke’s Baya subtle twist of oak. passionfruit and lime flavours PINOT GRIS Pinot Gris 2008 HHH1/2 and a well-rounded finish. Easy- Slightly honeyed, dry style, drinking, bone-dry style, showing 16 TASTED mouthfilling, fresh and peachy very good depth. $18.95 8 RECOMMENDED (10% viognier). Drinking well now. $19 (A, UK) Mixed bag. The top wines Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay were attractively perfumed Pinot Gris 2009 HHH and weighty, with ripe, Very fresh and vibrant, in an peachy flavours, but those easy-drinking style with slightly not recommended were sweet flavours of citrus fruits, typically a bit lean and short, apples and pears and a hint of suggesting overcropping. honey. $22.99150 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010