Winestate Magazine September October 2010

We consider the oak impact is per cent from Seguin Moreau, but nowgreater than in single vineyard, we do have other sourcing as well. Forso the ageing is a little shorter. example, we went directly to the forest to buy Troncais [oak], and are using this now.” The origins of this once-again impressive something that was done decades ago.building date to a 12th century fort, which was Philippe said “when a viognier vine dies, A lone cooper works in 15th and 16thsubsequently expanded into a Renaissance we replace it with viognier. We try to keep century buildings of the chateau, craftingchateau in the 16th century. Fully restored, the percentage of viognier consistent.” five barrels a day. This provides the 750it is now an historical monument. And there are no detailed technical to 800 new oak barrels needed by the winemaking issues of using viognier whole Guigals. “We use them all for our own Being able to use the word chateau grapes or must or skins, as is debated and vineyards,” says Philippe. “We sell onlyon the wine label proved quite tricky. variously practised in Australia. Philippe secondhand barrels. We will need morePhilippe says, “The notion of chateau is said “viognier is picked at the same time, barrels in the future, maybe also for Vidal-very restricted. We looked for the original and it goes into same vat.” He knows it Fleury, so we may have to think about aarchives of Chateau d’Ampuis. In the 16th will be overripe because their efforts are second cooper in the winery.”century the chateau was producing wine concentrated on perfect ripeness of theusing some vineyards. Today we own syrah, but, he added “when viognier is The family wanted more control of thethe same vineyards and the chateau. We overripe, it has wide aromatic range.” oak they use. Philippe says, “We drywanted to rebuild the link with the building [the staves] for three years. It’s a naturaland the vineyard. Chateau d’Ampuis also houses the drying, without watering. If you water, it Guigal cooperage, which the family [the seasoning of the staves] goes faster. “The vineyard parcels had never changed started in 2003, when Philippe’s father If you wait for natural rain, it takes moretheir names. There is almost eight hectares, Marcel turned 60. It had long been a time. There’s already a change in the wine.a mix of Cote Brune and Cote Blonde [in dream of his to have a cooperage. We’ve noticed it in the quality of the whites;Cote-Rotie]. Three vineyards are touching the oak touch is much more gentle.”La Turque, one is touching La Landonne “Starting a cooperage by ourselves wouldand three are close to La Mouline.” have been very difficult, says Philippe. The Guigals use only the traditionalBecause the family proved the link between “We were helped by [prestigious coopers] 228-litre piéce of the region. A barrique, as isvineyard and chateau they were given Seguin Moreau. We were sourcing 100 traditional in Bordeaux, is 225 litres. Philippepermission to use the term. explains that, “In a barrique the width of the stave is smaller; in a piéce they are bigger. It The Chateau d’Ampuis wine has is better for syrah to have larger staves. Wenotably less ageing than the Guigals’ think the oxygenation through the staves isuber-famous Cote-Rotie cuvees of La slower in piéce than barrique.”Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque- 38 as opposed to 42 months. Philippe They prefer to handle the reductivesays Chateau d’Ampuis “has a mix of tendencies of syrah through preciseterroirs. Cote Blonde wines are delicate, rackings. “We do two to three rackings inseductive; we consider the oak impact the first year depending on the malo, whichis greater than in single-vineyard, so the we do in the piéce,” says Philippe. “Twoageing is a little shorter. We don’t want rackings in the second year; one rackingoak to overpower the wine.” in the third year.” And for the wines that have 42 months’ ageing, there is no racking The Château d’Ampuis Côtes Rôtie is in the final year. These wines are bottleda blend of syrah with 5 to 7% viognier without fining or filtration.in it, and the vineyards are co-planted, As if all this were not enough, another circle of life is beginning for the Guigals. All being well, Philippe and his wife Eve will be the proud parents of twins at the end of this year, or perhaps the beginning of next. Sometimes it can be as well to keep your own parents close at hand! September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 51

3RD PLACE LUKAS SIRKELThe Ideals of an Icon2 0 0 5 P E N F O L D S G R A N G E - D E L I C I O U S LY,DISTIN C TIV ELY D IFFER E NTT H E R E I S A L W AY S pressure on intelligent input of Penfolds’ winemaking sit exactly the same. That’s why this wine is team have produced an elite wine of great such a delight to work with in the winery; wethe makers of Penfolds Grange to produce character from the 2005 vintage with its own watch it twist and turn so much through thean outstanding wine, but after all the distinctive qualities - which is very much a five years that we spend with each vintageinflated hype and brouhaha surrounding cherished Grange tradition. of Grange before it is released, thoughthe celebrated 2004 Grange, with its we certainly don’t want the winemakers’luscious fruit and silken poise on the palate, “Grange has never tried to be a fingerprints all over it.”Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago felt homogenised type of wine; it proudlya hefty weight of expectation to follow this shows vintage variation and the influence of Peter says he has managed the artfulshining star with a wine of equal merit. grapes from different regions,” says Peter. balance between wine expression and “It a magnificently complex, surprising winemaker interpretation with Grange due It wasn’t that 2005 was a poor vintage, thing, this animal that we call Grange, to the detailed historical template that he hasPeter hastens to add, but it didn’t dazzle because while they can all show some to work from, stretching back to winemakerin the same immediate way that fruit did familiar characters, there are no two that Max Schubert’s first experimental bottlingin 2004. Yet the sum of the parts and the of this wine style from vintage 1951 and first commercial release from 1952. He also benefits from accessing so much accumulated knowledge and experience within the Penfolds staff about where Grange has come from and what its shining characteristics have been along its journey. Of course it helps that Peter’s winemaking skills are of the highest order: dux of his Roseworthy oenology course before joining Penfolds in 1989, and the youngest to take the head winemaker role at Penfolds, in 2002 - though he consistently points to the experience of his Penfolds’ red winemaking colleagues Steve Lienert and Andrew Baldwin as being determining factors in the finished wines. Peter also acknowledges the input of such stalwarts52 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

We’re either crazy, or brave, I suppose, to put up our newest wine alongside one of the acknowledged greats.as John Bird, former senior red winemaker “Despite always doing such rigorousat Penfolds, who semi-retired in 1996 but exploration at vintage, it doesn’t meancontinues to serve as a valued consultant. there will be endless components in theJohn celebrated his 51st vintage at Magill wine,” says Peter. “This mix shows it was aEstate in 2010, making him the last of the pretty good red grape vintage in 2005; notwinemakers from the Schubert era to still one of the classics, but we also didn’t havebe examining Grange in the winery. “That the pressures of drought or heat issuessort of input and opinion is invaluable,” that have troubled more recent years. Isays Peter. “Back-up and resources of this don’t believe it pales in comparison tocalibre certainly help to make great wine.” 2004 - especially now that there’s five years on the wine.” As a result, the 2005 Grange stands as asturdy, exciting wine, different in character to Such is his confidence in the 2005the alluring 2004, due to its more exuberant, Grange that he been presenting this newwild nature. Since its release in April 2010, release alongside the esteemed 1990more than one wine critic has commented Grange - a former Wine Spectator Wine ofthat it’s the type of wine that Max Schubert the Year - at comparative tastings aroundwould have approved of. Peter is delighted the world. “We’re either crazy, or brave,by such comparisons, knowing they reflect I suppose, to put up our newest winehis upholding of selections crucial to Max’s alongside one of the acknowledged greatsoriginal concept for Grange: big, ripe fruit - but it shows that the 2005 stands up andmatured in new American oak for 18 months, belongs beside such elite company.”with the blend boasting about 4 per cent ofcabernet sauvignon and a complex mesh of As the fourth chief winemaker at Penfoldsshiraz components - selected from about 30 to take responsibility for Grange - afterdifferent parcels, all tasted blind so that no Max Schubert, Don Ditter (1975-1986)preference is given to any region, or specific and John Duval (1986-2002) - Petergrowers. Still, the mix comprises 88 per cent knows that this wine always comes underof Barossa fruit (much of it from Kalimna), the harshest scrutiny. And to his credit,with only two components from McLaren while a turbulent wine economy andVale and one from Coonawarra - all coming corporate superstructure swirl around him,from about eight growers. he remains firmly focused on making sure this wine remains an Australian icon. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 53

categor y winnersSHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDSTHE STATSthat countNUMBER TASTED: 780NUMBERRECOMMENDED: 530% recommended: 68%NUMBER FIVE STARS(Gold Award): 28% awarded: 3.6%NUMBER FOUR& HALF STARS(High Silver Award): 36% awarded: 4.6%NUMBER FOUR STARS(Silver Award): 113% awarded: 14.5%NUMBER THREE UNDER $10 $10-$15 $15-$20 $20-$25& HALF STARS(High Bronze Award): 141 Aldi Stores Cobblers Quarisa Johnny Q Kirrihill Tullymore Vineyard Wolf Blass Gold Label% awarded: 18.1% Lane SEA Shiraz 2008 South Australia Shiraz Clare Valley Shiraz 2008 Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHHH $9.99 2008 HHHH $11.99 HHHH $18.99 HHHH1/2 $24.99NUMBER THREE STARS(Bronze Award): 212% awarded: 27.2%$40-$50 $50-$60 $60-$70 $70-$80 $ 8 0 - $ 10 0Yellow Tail by Casella Orlando Wines Lawson’s Chapel Hill The Vicar Saltram No.1 Clonakilla ShirazWines Limited Release Padthaway Shiraz 2004 McLaren Vale Shiraz Barossa Shiraz 2006 Viognier 2008Barossa Valley Shiraz HHHHH $59.99 2008 HHHHH $60.00 HHHHH $77.99 HHHHH $86.002006 HHHHH $49.9554 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

australia TOP TEN 1 Hardys HRB D637 Clare Valley Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2006 $39 2 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange 2005 $499 3 Yellow Tail by Casella Wines Limited Release Barossa Valley Shiraz 2006 $49.95 4 Chapel Hill The Vicar McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 $60 5 Orlando Wines Lawson’s Padthaway Shiraz 2004 $59.99 6 Trevor Jones Wild Witch Reserve Dry Grown Barossa Shiraz 2005 $65 7 RidgeView Generations Reserve Hunter Valley Shiraz 2007 $40 8 Saltram No.1 Barossa Shiraz 2006 $77.99 9 Yellow Tail by Casella Wines Limited Release Wrattonbully Shiraz 2005 $49.95 10 Chateau Reynella Basket Pressed McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007 $54$25-$30 $30-$40 new zealandHaselgrove Bella Vigna Hardys HRB/D637 TOP TENPremium Selection Clare Valley AdelaideMcLaren Vale Shiraz Hills Shiraz 2006 1 John Forrest Collection Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay2008 HHHHH $25.00 HHHHH $39.00 Syrah 2006 $70 NZ 2 Newton Forrest Estate Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2006 $45 NZ 3 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2008 $34 NZ 4 Moana Park Vineyard Tribute Gimblett Road Syrah 2008 $31.99 5 Squawking Magpie The Stoned Crow Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2008 $39.95 6 Squawking Magpie The Chatterer Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2009 $24.95 7 Man O’ War Dreadnought Waiheke Island Syrah 2008 $40 NZ 8 Mills Reef Elspeth Trust Vineyard Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007 $39.95 9 Trinity Hill Hawkes Bay Syrah 2009 $19 NZ 10 Sileni Cellar Collection Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2008 $17.95 NZ france TOP TEN$100-$200 $200+ 1 Domaine Auguste Clape Rhone Cornas 2006 $210 2 E.Guigal Chateau d’Ampuis France Cote-Rotie 2005 $290Wolf Blass Platinum Domaine Auguste Clape 3 Domaine Georges Vernay France Saint-Joseph 2006 $65Label Barossa Shiraz Rhone Cornas 2006 4 Kilikanoon Alliance France Crozes-Hermitage 2007 $38 CD2006 HHHHH $169.99 HHHHH $210.00 5 Rene Rostaing France Cote-Rotie 2006 $151 6 Francois Merlin France Saint-Joseph 2007 $55 7 Paul Jaboulet Domaine de Thalabert France Crozes-Hermitage 2005 $54 8 Maxime Graillot Domaine Des Lises France Crozes-Hermitage 2007 $50 9 Montirius Serine France Cotes du Rhone 2007 $41 10 Maxime Graillot Equinoxe France Crozes-Hermitage 2008 $37.99 south africa TOP TWO 1 Haskell Aeon Vineyard Series Stellenbosch Syrah 2007 $104 2 Haskell Pillars Vineyard Series Stellenbosch Syrah 2007 $140 September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 55

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELThere’s plenty to moo about in Brisbane at If you are after a steak in the CBD, head beef main courses, pasta and seafood dishesthe moment with the recent edition of two new to the city’s newest venue, Moo Moo. It’s offer an alternative or you can go with the Moosteakhouses, both in the inner city. Bovine is a second location for owners Autumn and Moo signature of a 1kg wagyu rump, spice-the Normanby Hotel’s signature restaurant Steve Adams, whose Broadbeach restaurant rubbed, chargrilled and oven-roasted. It’sand, as the name suggests, is boasting a is a firm favourite with Gold Coast locals and carved at your table and served with wagyuseriously beef-centric menu. The heritage- visitors. After an extensive makeover, the old fat kipfler potatoes, a rocket salad and alisted pub is a very popular watering hole Port Office Building in Edward St, next to the variety of condiments. A strong selection offor Brisbane’s party set but Bovine is safely Stamford Plaza Hotel, is attracting beef lovers mainly imported cheeses follows, as does atucked away at the back of the building, far with that irresistible waft of meat cooking on well-compiled wine list with tasting notes forfrom the madding crowd. Entry is into the a grill. Entry is via a formal foyer and up a set each varietal and a full page of wines by thebar, which is separated from the dining area of curved stairs into a slightly crammed meet- glass. Port Office Building, cnr Edward St andby grass-embossed glass walls. A round and-greet area that overlooks the kitchen. Margaret St, Brisbane; phone (07) 3236 4500. Take a left past the floor-to-ceiling glassfeature table that can seat six is embedded display cabinet of charcuterie and you’ll find Over at Southbank at the heritage-listed Shipinto one wall and the surrounding wall is yourself in the bustling dining room, at the end Inn, it’s all about lamb. Alongside the regularupholstered in cowhide and surrounded by of which are a couple of private rooms and menu of quality pub fare is a daily specialschunky, polished wooden tables of varying a verandah on both sides, one overlooking list of 30 different lamb dishes, with at leastsizes, which add warmth to the room. the hotel courtyard, the other looking out to four appearing daily. These may include lamb Edward St and the botanic gardens. and mushroom pies, lamb korma with spicy Far from the predictable pub/steak menus, yoghurt, pan-seared cutlets with fresh figsthis one kicks off with a variety of charcuterie The menu is divided into lots of sections, and golden shallots and lamb rump servedplates that are designed to share. Duck starting with hot and cold entrees and over couscous with a red wine jus. Therillettes are paired with pheasant pate and salads, and moves into a two-page spread lamb is sourced direct from the producer atserved with French bread and cornichons, of specialty beef. AACO wagyu from the Goondiwindi on the Queensland-NSW border.smoked beef comes with wagyu silverside, Darling Downs comes in various cuts, Beef isn’t snubbed, however, with a couple ofand eye fillet is garnished with horseradish as does in-house dry-aged black Angus cuts available at night, as well as eye fillet andcream and onion jam. There’s also a from Gippsland, fillets from Cape Grim in salmon cooked at the table on volcanic hotvegetarian platter of artichokes, eggplants, Tasmania and sirloin from Ranger’s Valley atolives and more. Queensland scallops, Glen Innes, NSW. David Blackmore’s wagyu rocks and accompanied by chips, dippingoyster tasting plates and market fish also oysterblade is grain-fed for up to 600 days sauce and salad. Cnr Stanley St and Sidon St,make the menu but it’s the paddock section and boasts a marble score of 9+, and this Southbank Parklands; phone (07) 3844 8000.that holds the most appeal. Provenance makes for a very tasty, tender cut. All steaksis noted and spans several Queensland come on granite slabs with roasted cherry Also new to Southbank is Benregions as well as NSW and the Coorong in tomatoes, a range of sauces, mustards and O’Donoghue’s new venture, SouthbankSouth Australia, where several grain- and/ relishes and interesting organic side dishes Surf Club, overlooking the beach and intoor grass-fed Angus cuts are given varying - think cauliflower gratin in small copper pots, the city. Stay tuned for a full rundown on hisamounts of ageing. There’s a strong wine brussels sprouts with caramelised onion and exciting new venture, which is designed tolist and attentive service, as well as dishes crisp bacon, or portobello mushrooms with blend perfectly with the balmy Queenslandsuited to non-meat lovers. 1 Musgrave Rd, Queensland goat’s feta. And the choices summers. 30AA Stanley Plaza Parklands,Red Hill; phone (07) 3831 3353. don’t end there: separate sections for non- South Brisbane; phone (07) 3844 7301. Above: Moo Moo restaurant interior and entrance.56 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINSome new and interesting cafes, The salted caramel and the passionfruit topped with grilled eggplant, mozzarella,restaurants and sandwich shops (!) are ones are delicious! Ground level, 500 pesto and anchovies; or the Maxi, withopening in Melbourne, making quality Bourke St, Lt Bourke St courtyard; phone pancetta, treccia (Italian stretched cheese),produce and service accessible to a (03) 9600 1995. parmigiano and radicchio. Other parts ofvery broad market. Earl Canteen, a shop the menu include pastas - the ravioli filledserving restaurant-quality sandwiches, has Another restaurant identity to bring with grilled artichoke, butter and sage isopened in the ‘other’ end of the city (the experience and meticulous skill to a cafe already a signature - olives stuffed withwestern side) where until only recently there environment is Philippa Sibley. Philippa, fontina, a veal costoletta (crumbed veal)has been little to choose from for lunch who made her name as co-owner of Est with coleslaw, and a meat and fish ofexcept for standard daytime cafe pre-made Est Est and Ondine in the late nineties and the day. The flavours are bold, servingsfocaccias. Enter Earl (yes, the connection early noughties, is still considered one of are generous and the room, with lotsto the Earl of Sandwich is correct) and its the best pastry chefs in the country. She of white in the walls and lightshades, iscreators, husband-and-wife team Jackie was recently approached by the new ownerMiddleton and Simon O’Regan. Both of St Kilda’s Il Fornaio cafe, Salvatore warmed up with dark wood tables and ahave impressive individual resumes. Malatesta, to reignite the profile of this central bar. The wine list is expressive ofOver the past few years, Simon has been once-reputable cafe and bakery. She Giovanni’s broad knowledge; ask him tomanager and sommelier at Stokehouse, accepted and, with a few changes to the pick something for you and he will returnAttica and, most recently, Rockpool, and welcoming opening space - the artwork has with a gem (Italian or otherwise) that may beJackie has worked front-of-house in many changed from David Band pieces to a more new, little-known and a great match for whatgood restaurants as well as being a menu urban feel of pinball machine backglass you’re eating. The friendly, smart servicedesigner and food stylist. These skills, backlit on the large white walls - but the focuses on the customer and there’scombined with a great vision, has brought concrete floors and wooden touches comfort in knowing you’re in experiencedmade-to-order baguettes and sandwiches remain. Philippa decided to outsource the hands. 305 St Georges Rd, Fitzroy North;with fillings like crisp pork belly with fennel, bread and has focused on her desserts, phone (03) 9482 2828.apple and cabbage coleslaw or Moondara supported by a simple, generous savourybeef meatballs in tomato sugo with zucchini menu. There may be game terrine with Left: Earl Canteen. Right: Earl Canteen’s restaurantpickle and shaved parmesan. This is a very pear and ginger chutney, freshly shucked quality steak sandwich and crisp pork belly baguette.simple room, with pale wooden benches oysters or potted ham with cornichonsand bar stools, but if you want to eat in, and mustard, but tram it to St Kilda to tryget there early because since its early Philippa’s desserts - her hand is deft anddays in May queues have been extending skill unquestionable - from a meyer lemonout the door through lunchtime. There is a tart to the play on the Snickers Bar thatstreamlined element to Earl but it’s because she made famous on MasterChef. She hasthere are plans to open another one by the well and truly put her stamp on St Kilda. 2end of 2010. With Simon’s wine experience Acland St, St Kilda; phone (03) 9534 2922.and knowledge, a short wine list is beingplanned, the coffee here is very good and The opening of SuperMaxi in Northa cult following is already growing around Fitzroy has seen the very welcome returnthe macaroons, made especially for them. of professionals Giovanni Patane and Rita Macali to Melbourne’s restaurant scene as owners together for the first time. The couple, who have both gained their own reputations - Giovanni as front-of-house and co-owner of Sud in the CBD and Rita as co-owner of Fitzroy’s Ladro until 2007 - have joined forces to create a trattoria that serves hearty Italian food and great pizza. It was Rita’s pizzas at Ladro that helped put it on the map back in 2003 and she has continued the theme, although this time using an electric oven instead of a wood-fired version - which hasn’t lessened the final product. Toppings include classics like margherita and napoletana as well as the GTV 105 (named after Giovanni’s favourite Alfa Romeo model), September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 57

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGIf you’ve ever doubted that experience really masterful, it was as decadent as the Ottoman with the restaurant’s opening week butcounts, book a table at Efendy. You will Empire. A definite go-back restaurant where word had spread like wildfire that thisprobably have to on most nights because the prices are as alluring as the food. 79 Elliott Newtown newbie was the brainchild of Joit's an open secret that this Balmain eatery St, Balmain; phone (02) 9810 5466. Ward, Claire van Vuuren and Mitch Gradyis the best Turkish restaurant in Sydney. - all graduates of the fabled Claude’s.Little wonder when you look at owner Somer In Athens recently I ate one of the best Even if the food wasn’t as good as it is,Sivrioglu’s resume. After working at a clutch moussakas I have ever eaten in my life. Not the decor is enough to stun. Architectof five-star hotels in Europe, the Istanbul in the Plaka, of course, where leaden layers Matt Woods has created a futuristic spacenative arrived in Australia in 1995 and of stodgy custard and cheap mince dominate of recycled materials, massive sleepershelped to successfully springboard globally menus, but in Kolonaki, the most exclusive and exposed orange pipes that wouldrenowned restaurant franchise chains such suburb in the city. So it didn’t take much fit neatly into Manhattan. Sharing is theas the Lowenbrau Keller, the Bavarian Bier to seduce me into visiting Medusa, right in culinary theme here - not a traditionalCafe and Wagamama in the Harbour City. the heart of the Sydney CBD. The polished three-course meal - and the open kitchen sends out top-quality finger food from vadai But Somer’s personal vision was to launch yet simple decor is filled with suits from the (dhal fritters with green chilli) througha restaurant to showcase the sophistication nearby office blocks at lunchtime - and very polenta chips with gorgonzola dip and pork,and variety of Istanbul’s vibrant, modern-day wise of them, too. Then there’s the moussaka crab and shiitake mushrooms wrapped indining scene, rather than a nostalgic haven - creamy, very fresh layers of bechamel bean curd skin. 416 King St, Newtown;that offered cliched dishes associated with sauce, premium mince and light-as eggplant phone (02) 9557 7699.tourist restaurants in his homeland. He slices. It’s best not to miss the fava Santorinihas succeeded beyond his dreams, not - an Aegean version of humous - or the lamb Right in the centre of The Rocks, Sakeonly in creating a menu that represents souvlaki. An oldie but a goodie teamed with is more about the earthy rather than thecontemporary Turkish cuisine, but also by textbook-perfect chips and salad. 2 Market refined side of the Japanese character. Itensuring that all the kitchen staff are Turkish St; phone (02) 9267 0799. doesn’t lack slick decor, of course, but it’sfor added authenticity. Front of house are a place where fun, not reverential silence,Somer’s wife Asli and her brother, Fatih Have you been to Bloodwood yet, asked rules. Start out as you mean to go on withKulle, whose warmth and knowledgable one of my best friends. The query coincided a sake bomb, the Japanese version of theexplanations of each dish guarantee that tequila slammer (tequila and champagne)many diners become repeat visitors. which substitutes sake and beer to drink in one go. You can choose main courses There would be a mini-riot among the regular from the menu but many patrons prefer theclientele if Efendy ever stopped offering sushi approach - a lot of small dishes to fillits popular meze dishes. For light eaters, up on from deep-fried rice, mushrooms,these appetisers popular in the meyhanes soy and bamboo balls through salty tofu(cafe/bars) of Istanbul are more than enough. and tempura-style inside-out rolls. TheConsider: kadayafli karides (king prawns cocktail list in the adjoining bar is a smartwrapped in shredded filo pastry), tarator place to start or finish a meal. 12 Argyle St,(a chickpea dip) and koc yumurtasi - or pan- The Rocks; phone (02) 9259 5656.fried lamb testicles with almond garlic taratoras we say in English. Once you get past the Above: Efendy balcony. Centre: Efendy meze bar.mental image, they are very good, too. Below: Efendy’s kadayifli karides with garnish. Small servings are notable for theirabsence at Efendy. I couldn't finish thecokertime kebabi - four slices of chargrilledRock Valley veal backstrap. But my fellowdiner polished off his kuzu tandir - seven-hour-roasted Bultarra saltbush lambshoulder with aromatic rice, currants andpinenuts. Seafood lovers shouldn’t go pastthe balik - pan-roasted Hiramasa kingfishfillet with olive oil-braised leeks and carrots. Even though I felt I couldn’t eat more thantwo peas, Somer insisted we try a layeredfilo pastry and almond custard dessert thatwas once a favourite at the sultan’s court inthe Topkapi Palace. Delicate, delicious and58 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHN Try to find a weekday lunch parking spot in a popular inner-suburban restaurant strip. It’s close to impossible, so I checked out West End Deli in West Perth for a quick meeting. Only a couple of clicks from the CBD, it stands commercially alone among older housing. We find a spot for our car only 50m from the door and there are about 30 inside enjoying lunch and the rustic casual atmosphere. A couple of new-release wines are on our agenda and we grab a small tableIt’s no surprise that tipping in the west is beetroot and cress add colour and texture outside on the path in balmy conditions.something that happens on racetracks to this delightful starter. The main, carved Although there are takeaways available,and not in restaurants. Good service roast fillet of Black Angus beef, braised this deli is more a cafe, but the luncheonattracts a tip but many eating houses here oxtail, fondant potato and cep mushroom menu is tiny and you need a catholichave very average service. The wait staff, jus is as it sounds, a great dish for a cold palate to dine here. I choose a morcillaadmittedly mainly itinerants and students, night. Fillet of beef is an expensive cut sausage (pig’s blood, rice and onion), withlack customer savvy and treat their jobs that is sometimes overlooked by chefs, not potato pieces, bacon and a just-cookedsimply as a way to make a few extra bucks. only because of its price, but it can lack fried egg on top. The dish is a cholesterolA rethink by local training organisations and flavour. The fillet cooked by Shannon is nightmare and although light in weightrestaurateurs is needed to lift standards. perfectly done and obviously well-rested, it’s full of flavour and the accompanying it’s rare in the middle and has an almost home-made baguette slices are great It was a pleasure, therefore, to dine at creamy texture full of beefiness and yet is at mopping up the residue. It wouldthe Quarter, a new restaurant/cafe at meltingly tender. The oxtail offers a rich lift be a terrific hangover cure but, to thisthe Wesley Centre in the CBD. Here the and the jus adds an inherent earthiness. clear-headed contributor, it’s a robustfront-end brigade is youthful and up to the Although relatively simple, this is the best meal for lunch. West End prices aremark. Led by consummate professional beef dish I’ve had in a couple of years. We reasonable and it is BYO, which suits usRyan Taylor, the team thankfully is not finish with a lemongrass and ginger creme with our wines. 95 Carr St, West Perth;‘too familiar’ but goes about its business brulee. Traditionalists may cringe, but I see phone (08) 9328 3605.of advising customers, taking orders and this as a Wilson good-to-be-home dish, abringing wine and food from the bar and modern Aussie rendition of one of the most Adding to the explosion of new smallkitchen to the tables with confidence and celebrated of all desserts to come out of bars The Suite, a sister of Mt Hawthorn’sskill. And then there is Perth-born chef France. Served chilled with a crunchy The Cabin, has opened in ShentonShannon Wilson, who heads up the caramelised lid and no adornments or frills, Park. The decor is busy, with an openQuarter kitchen. He has spent the past it is light and fresh with balanced spices fireplace, chesterfields and old Indian-look10 years overseas, including a stint at and is a glorious finish to our meal. furniture. 210 Nicholson Rd, Shenton Park;Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck and phone (08) 9381 2170.at Richard Branson’s Roof Top Gardens Quarter is small and sits around 50 withand he’s back home with an armoury of room for another 20 outside in the arcade. Above: Quarter Restaurant/Cafe interior.recipes and fresh ideas, notwithstanding There are banquettes, contemporaryamazing talent. “Working overseas is furniture and the bar at the far end of thesomething that all young chefs should room is where the action is. It’s licenseddo,” he says, “it’ll be long hours and tiring and has a clever wine list that’s well-priced.stuff but the experience is irreplaceable.” Lighting is dim at dinner, especially in the corner banquette area where we are, so We begin dinner with a rillette of smoked with an increase in wattage (the food andmackerel and poached salmon, served with wine deserve it) and better stemware,cherry tomatoes, small cubes of beetroot, I could lift Quarter into my top drawer ofbaby cress and a beetroot reduction. The diners in the west. At the moment though,fish is pleasantly salty with just a waft of it is still pretty damn good. 93-95 Williamsmokiness, the tomatoes are tiny bombs full St, Perth; phone (08) 9322 2424.of exploding ripeness and acidity and the September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 59

adelaidegrapevineGRAEME ANDREWSReporting on South Australia’s hospitality a visual delight. But unlike in many kitchens Brett and Sarah Matthews’ acquisitionindustry over the past 15 years has proved capable of such presentation artistry, the of the Stirling Hotel became a catalyst forrewarding and disappointing in almost ‘X factor’ - lip-smacking piquancy - is a dramatic change. The two-storey structureequal measure. This cut-throat, roller- constant, delicious companion. physically dominated the eastern end ofcoaster industry takes no prisoners. Culinary Currently, The Rocks seriously over- Stirling’s main street for many years. Itexcellence of iconic restaurants can slide delivers in the value-for-money department. was substantial in size but underwhelmingsideways into mediocrity without warning Take advantage. Glenelg Pier Hotel. in its fare, so the time was ripe for awhile, simultaneously, others emerge 18 Holdfast Promenade, Glenelg; phone substantial hospitality upgrade. It’s now atriumphant in this newly vacated, rarefied (08) 8350 3188; www.glenelgpier.com.au. swirl of boutique accommodation, terracedterritory. One of these, a rank outsider, has Changing social consumption habits verandahs, smart bars and pumping bistro.left the pack and is sprinting for pole position. coupled with strong government drink- But the jewel in this crown is the Mallee Grill Glenelg Plaza Pier was constructed driving legislation has flagged a quantum Restaurant. Sumptuously appointed, with aduring the 1990s, in a stunning beachside rethink of how the booze industry should clever fusion of 1880s meets 2010 ambience,location. The Rocks, complete with it provides a tranquil haven for fine food andexpensive contemporary fit-out, floor-to- operate. The concept of wine tourism good wine. Well-spaced tables, white linen,ceiling windows overlooking a sublime arguably has been part of that process. quality table accoutrements and friendly,marine vista and a mission to deliver fine Major companies, with multi-faceted cellar knowledgeable service round out the picture.cuisine, was designed to be the flagship door constructions incorporating premium Head chef Gary Rule and restaurantrestaurant. It flared, fluttered and finally restaurants and lavish function facilities, manager Andrew Marshall can quietly takeflatlined. That’s until now. once dominated the scene. Now much more a bow. Their joint efforts have produced an General manager Jamie Nicholls and modest players have sprung up as well. exceptional dining room format. Andrew’sthe powerhouse combo of executive chef Tearo Estate is typical of this latter breed. drinks list covers all the bases: a globalSteven Clarke and sous Terry Downes In a thoughtfully made-over 1860s stone selection of beers, interesting sparkling, whitehave reversed its fortunes with some of the barn at Williamstown in hills of the southern and red wines and an excellent-value vintagebest professional dishes I’ve tried this year. Barossa, the Fromms and Hauslers and reserve selection. Gary has drawn on hisWhile cuisine can be broadly defined as a their extended families, have introduced classical training to rework dishes modestlydefinitive nod towards Modern Australian, their own personal concepts. Fine dining described as ‘polished pub food’. This maninterpretation has followed a refreshingly has moved aside for tasty farmhouse must have been through some very differentinnovative path. Global classics have been platters of regional produce, dukkah/olive ‘watering hole’ experiences than most of us.infused with unexpected twists and subtle oil plates, and handmade chocolates to kill I can’t think of many ‘pubs’ with menu itemscomplexities. Think prosciutto-wrapped for. A medley of speciality teas and coffees along the line of roasted Jerusalem artichokescallops, pan-seared and napped with is on offer and there’s an innovative treat soup with truffle oil, or sweet soy and gingerpalm sugar, Grand Marnier glaze and bag to keep young kids happy. And, most marinated duck breast, caramelised andcandied orange zest, or beef tenderloin with importantly, corporate formality is replaced served with pickled cherries, chargrilledgorgonzola and spinach pudding, roasted with genuine, warm hospitality. The people radicchio and coconut-infused sticky blackred pepper and sauce diable. Even the who grow the grapes and make the wine also rice. Desserts are not mere afterthoughtshumble ‘nicoise salad’ has been reworked to pour the tastings. A rich personal interaction either: frangelico creme caramel with tulipinclude crispy-skin Atlantic salmon, resulting makes every visit feel special. Delightfully biscuit, gold leaf and caramelised banana,in a deconstructed masterpiece that dances refreshing. Main Rd, Williamstown; phone or hot Belgian chocolate souffle with hazelnutacross the plate. Every menu item appears as (08) 8524 6860; www.tearoestate.com. ice cream and rich pouring cream are typical sweet-tooth offerings. Gary’s food is loaded with flavour and presented with great artistic flair, and serves are generous. In refreshing contrast to today’s norm, all mains are complete meals in themselves. Some interesting sides are available but, be aware, when added to the meal they are likely to defeat even the most committed trencher person. An unexpected Adelaide Hills gem. 52 Mt Barker Rd. Stirling; phone (08) 8339 2345; www.stirlinghotel.com.au. Left: Mallee Grill dining room. Right: Mallee Grill, tasting plate.60 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

SCARPANTONI ESTATE GROWN - FAMILY MADEThe family estate is in good hands. Since 1958 we have led with viticulture and vineyard innovation.We produce our wines with our own hands, every bottle is treated like one of our family! McLaren Vale Grape Growers since 1958 - Estate Winemakers from 1979 Cellar Door open: Monday - Friday 9am to 5pm, Weekends & Public Holidays 11am to 5pm Scarpantoni Drive, McLaren Flat, SA. Phone: (08) 8383 0186 [email protected] www.scarpantoniwines.com

winewords G E O R G E GROSSA N D H A R RY W AT TSKYE MURTAGHIt would be hard to find a more formidable What measures do you What’s been your biggest professionaland longer-lasting partnership within the take to protect/preserve achievement?often-fickle Australian fashion industry than your collection? Reaching 37 years in the business together.the one enjoyed by multi-award-winning We have a fantastic cellar We of course celebrated with somedesigners George Gross and Harry Watt. in our apartment with wine Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve.In August this year, the Adelaide-based fridges.duo celebrated an impressive 37 years in If you could choose one person fromthe business, at the helm of their respective Name the most memorable the past or the present to share a glasslabels: ‘George Gross’ and ‘Harry Who’. bottle of wine you’ve ever of wine with, who would it be, why andWhile George showed an interest in high-end consumed and why you’ll what would you drink?fashion design at an early age, it was meeting never forget the moment. Sophia Loren, and it might just have to be aHarry (his partner now for more than 40 years) Billecart-Salmon Rosé - the good full-bodied Italian red to suit the actressin the early ’70s that was the catalyst for first time we tried it. It was herself. We are both huge fans and shelaunching both their fashion careers. Harry just a dinner at home with embodies our philosophies of being a woman,was an aspiring designer at the time, looking friends and wonderful food, so who better to enjoy a beautiful wine with?to create edgy everyday clothing and party but the evening was such a special one andwear - the perfect complement to George’s the beautiful champagne only heightened What’s your favourite wine accessory?passion for glamorous evening attire. the wonderful mood. We have some beautiful antique crystalThe ‘George Gross’ label was launched glasses that anything tastes amazing in. Wein 1973, followed soon after by the ‘Harry At the launch of a new collection what found them at one of our favourite shops inWho’ line. Between them, they’ve dressed do like to serve up to your VIP guests? Adelaide but they were originally French.celebrities the world over, from Elle Without wanting to sound repetitive, weMacpherson to Princess Diana and one of always love to serve champagne. Everyone Do you find your wine tastes changethe fashion world’s current ‘it’ girls - Australian enjoys it and so do we! with the seasons - and what’s your topmodel Miranda Kerr. So what’s been the drop for enjoying on a balmy spring day?key to their success and longevity? Well, How have your wine tastes changed Luckily our favourite drop, champagne,apart from an innate understanding of what over the years? is delicious all year round and we tend towomen actually want in fashion and the Both Harry and I have always had good adjust our wine choices depending on ourability to move with the times without being palates, but over the years we’ve learnt meals rather than the seasons.dictated to, George and Harry share a to be a bit more open about the wines wepenchant for champagne as the first choice try. As we’ve become more successful, the Are you a fan of the cellar doorfor marking any celebration. With no plans wines have become higher-quality and our experience and, if so, which winery arefor retirement any time soon and plenty more palates have developed accordingly. you always happy to return to?new collections to launch, it looks like the Living in Adelaide, there are so manybubbles will keep flowing for many years yet. What do you think is the best way of wonderful wineries, however we don’t teaching wine appreciation? often visit the cellar doors. It’s much easierHow would you describe your personal You have to drink wine. If you don’t drink it to enjoy yourself when you are at homewine collection? how can you understand what someone is or a friend’s and surrounded with yourA little bit eclectic and very colourful! trying to describe? favourite people.What takes pride of place in the collection? Where’s the most unusual place you’veWe are both huge fans of champagne so consumed wine?we always make sure there’s a bottle of We went to Royal Ascot a number of yearsFrench in the house. These bottles would ago and sat there in our top hats and tailshave to be our most prized possessions. sipping on a bottle of delicious champagneChampagne always represents a wonderful (I’m afraid I can’t remember exactly what ittime and we have so many fond memories was, just that it was French) and watchedwhen drinking it. the Queen walk past and wave. Definitely a surreal experience!What occasion might prompt you tobreak open these bottles? Complete this sentence: “A great wineAny occasion is worthy but it would have is like …to be surrounded by our dear friends and ... a beautiful woman; they only get betterfamily - along with our dog Bobby. with age!”62 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010



bookwormsMIKE JAENSCHVINODIVERSITY - THE BOOK DARING PAIRINGS CORKEDWritten and published by Darby Higgs By Evan Goldstein By Kathryn BorelPrice $25 Published by Inbooks Published by Hachette AustraliaAvailable through www.vinodiversity.com RRP $59.95 RRP $32.99The more you browse through this book, If you’ve been hooked by Vinodiversity, At 26, Toronto-born Kathryn Borel sets outthe more interesting it gets. What seems at here’s a literary match made in heaven. on a pilgrimage with the retired hotelier/first glance like a fairly academic subject More than 30 of the alternative wines chef father whose passion for wine she hastakes on more mainstream relevance for described by Darby Higgs are joined in steadfastly shunned for years. To get closethe curious and adventurous wine drinker. blissful culinary wedlock with recipes from to that side of Philippe, she takes him on leading North American-based chefs. a road trip through the French wine regions This is Darby Higgs’ follow-up to his of Alsace, Burgundy, Cotes du Rhone andEmerging Varietal Wines of Australia, Author and food industry veteran Evan the Langedoc.published in 2006 to examine the growing Goldstein - who in 1987 became the eighthphenomenon of alternative wine styles - life American and youngest ever at the time to It’s the sort of atonement with which manybeyond the familiar and ‘safe’ choices like qualify as a Master Sommelier - has written people might feel an empathy as theycab sav, shiraz, sav blanc and chardonnay. this outstanding follow-up to his Perfect become increasingly aware of their parents’ Pairings, which focused on better-known mortality, but such a father-daughter As Higgs observes on his website, some wines, matched with recipes from his journey has the potential to place a lot ofvarietals that were left-field four years mother, celebrated chef Joyce Goldstein. speed humps on the highways and backback are decidedly more commonplace roads they travel. And so it transpires.now - such as pinot gris/grigio, viognier, Goldstein lays the foundations early insangiovese and tempranillo - but there Daring Pairings by explaining the ‘keys to Philippe’s irascibility and propensity toare scores you won’t have heard of until understanding wine’ - acidity, sweetness, cause embarrassment often clash withyou open this book. tannin, oak and alcohol - and the ‘keys to Kathryn’s impatience and frustration as understanding food’ ingredients, cooking they lurch from one mini-crisis to another, As a taste, the very first name in the methods, sauces and condiments. but somehow their immense mutual lovealphabetically arranged book is not a and respect help them surmount thename at all but a number - 1893, a white He’s soon alphabetically analysing the 36 obstacles and enjoy some rewardinggrape planted in that year in a Queensland wines, ranging from albarino to vermentino in encounters at wineries along the way.vineyard now owned by Rimfire. Its DNA is the whites, and from aglianico to xinomavrounknown anywhere else in the world, so this in the reds, offering ‘pairing pointers’ and Detours into the emotional aftermathdry white is utterly exclusive. those delectable recipes, along with the of Kathryn’s recently ended romance chefs’ explanations of their food/wine matches and a road accident in the US in which Part two of the book lists and describes and a list of recommended producers of the an elderly pedestrian is killed tendevery Australian GI zone, region and sub- matching ‘everyday, premium or splurge’ wine. to interrupt the flow of the road tripregion, and part three lists all the wineries narrative, as do the use of gratuitouswith their websites and the varietals they And while the chefs might all be from expletives and slabs of capital letters toproduce. Take a chance, go exploring … Goldstein’s home country, these producers denote shouted conversations.and read the review of Daring Pairings. are anything but. The international roll call of labels includes, for example, All in all, though, it’s an endearing and Tahbilk marsanne, Campbell’s muscat and witty love story starring dad and daughter. Craneford grenache from Australia.64 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

the wine & spirit insiderSeptember/October 2010 Issue 113 FREE COPY in this issue Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac New Releases a n d T o p 4 0 b e s t w i n e b u y s u n d e r $20Wine, Beer and Spirits... conveniently delivered to you! THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411

22 TASTED18 AWARDEDB R A N DY, C O G N AC & A R M AG N ACIt continues to be amazing that a highly spirited product FRENCH BRANDY Marquis de Montesquioucan be so smooth when presented at its finest. Of XO Imperial Francecourse, at the commercial end we know brandy as a 3 TASTED Armagnac HHHHmixer with cocktails or fruit and soft drinks, but at the 2 AWARDED Rich, full-bodied style withsublime end these spirits reach to the heavens! abundant tingling alcohol, These are generally regarded complex spirit, good wood,AUSTRALIAN St Helena 3 Star Australian as mixers and you get what toasty fruit and finishing longBRANDY Brandy HHHH1/2 you pay for here. and spicy. $N/A Lovely rich, sweet, lifted,7 TASTED toffee-like bouquet layered with St Remy VSOP Authentic COGNAC6 AWARDED traces of dried fruit characters. French Brandy HHH1/2 Very sweet, smooth and warm Rich, full, well-made brandy 10 TASTEDVery strong class, with lovely in the mouth. Good aged with good age and integration 8 AWARDEDdefined spirit. \"The best here characters developing. $25.99 of sweet fruit and attractivewould stand up against the St Agnes VSOP Aged wood. $30.49 “Great spirit, great oak, greatbest brandy or whisky spirit 5 Years Brandy HHHH1/2 flavour; what else can youanywhere in the world. These Excellent caramel sweetness Chatelle Napoleon Rare want?” summed up one judge.are the best we have seen to the nose and nicely Old French Brandy HHH These cognacs showed greatfrom this country.\" The judges' balanced, flavoursome, spicy, Big, rich, fruity spirit on the elegance, length and persistencewere unanimous in their praise. caramel palate with toffee-like nose and wood-dominated of fine spirited flavour. development. Shows good palate with lingering brandy flavours. $35 sweetness. $30.99 St Agnes 3 Star Classic ARMAGNAC Brandy HHH1/2 Sweet, fruity nose with an 2 TASTED estery/spicy lift. Smooth and 2 AWARDED spicy in the mouth, with pleasant drying, alcoholic finish. $27 The Armagnacs were typical of their style: rich, round, broad with big, well-balanced flavours. Chateau Tanunda Australian Brandy HHH Lighter style. Traces of sultanas on the nose and light toffee/ pear flavours. Easy to drink. Hardys Black Bottle Hennessy XO France Australian Brandy HHH Cognac HHHHH Light, sweet floral bouquet Gorgeous, big, rich, complex and well-balanced, integrated Cognac with all the ‘bells and palate. Good flavour intensity. whistles’ in place. Lovely lifted Young spirit. $28.99 spirit on the dark toffee nose, with a palate almost like an old fortified. Great use of wood. $180St Agnes XO Very Old Chabot XO Superior FranceBrandy HHHHH Armagnac HHHH1/2Beautifully elegant Cognac-like Pleasant, rich, resinous aromasstyle of brandy. The bouquet and a mature palate withis big and rich and fruity, with intense, sweet nutty/ranciohuge complexity of woody/ flavours that linger on withspicy fruit flavours with very good wood/fruit balance.lovely lifted sweetness. Very \"A great Armagnac.\" $120consumer-friendly. $9566 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

feature tasting Martell XO Supreme STAY IN THE COGNAC REGION France Cognac HHHH1/2 Good wood nose with lovely TOM HARDY’S “LOCK KEEPER’S COTTAGE” sweetness coming out. IN JARNAC RIGHT OPPOSITE COURVOISIER Huge flavours with massive complex nutty/rancio characters and a burnt toffee end. An exceptional product. $180 Courvoisier VSOP France Cognac HHHH Excellent balance of sweetness with wood. Attractive oaky aromas and toffee-sweet palate with lingering rancio age and an astringent end. $75Remy Martin XO Hennessy Very SpecialExcellence Fine Champagne France Cognac HHH1/2Cognac HHHHH Rich, pleasantly sweet,“Very old, very rich and very style, with good spirit/woodelegant.” Some beautiful sweet complexity, nice warmth and afruit seamlessly integrated with drying end. $65excellent wood characters. Remy Martin VSOP FineBeautifully balanced and with Champagne Francea slightly astringent end. $215 Cognac HHH1/2 Lovely and smooth and complex, with lifted toffee characters, good wood and sweet perfumed spirit. $82.99 Courvoisier VS France Cognac HHH Pleasant, perfumed, nougat-like aromas and nicely balanced palate with great finesse and texture. $59.99Hennessy VSOP Privilege WEEKLY HOLIDAY RENTALSFrance Cognac HHHH1/2 VERY REASONABLE RATESVery rich, well-balanced Cognac CONTACT TOM HARDY TEL: 0411 191 043with big brandy aromas and www.picwine.com.au click on ‘RETREATS’a complexity and intensity of EMAIL: [email protected]/caramel/rancio flavourswith a lovely warming finish. $80 Russell Johnson JUDGES Wine division technical Richard Angove manager of Beringer Blass Steven Matthews Brand manager for Wine Estates. Previously Lecturer in hospitality Angove's Wines. 5th oenological manager studies at Regency Generation of Angove's for Vinpac International. College of Tafe and family. Has been a Eight years’ experience as formerly Adelaide winemaker and marketer production manager with Institute of TAFE. with vintages in Spain, Seagram Spirits. Adelaide Former general manager Hunter Valley, Canada & Wine Show judge in the of Earl of Zetland Hotel, Central Victoria. Associate brandy class. and malt specialist. judge at Adelaide and Victorian wine shows. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 67

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NEW RELEASES285 TASTED127 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESA real mixed bag of wines in this tasting, with winemakers having to deal Briar Ridge Vineyardwith a number of challenging vintages over the past few years; some Homestead Huntermore successfully than others. Overall, the sauvignon blanc-based wines Verdelho 2010 HHHHwere light and featureless and a number of the red classes struggled, Pleasant, lifted, floralbut on a positive note we saw an excellent flight of riesling and the fruit nose with anshiraz varietals continued to be trustworthy. Commendations also for attractive citrusy palate,chardonnay, semillon and an interesting array of ‘other red’ wines. slightly astringent on the finish. Nice fresh quaffer - great with lunch! $21SPARKLING Oakvale Sparkling OTHER WHITE Simpatico Wines Chardonnay BLENDS Barossa Viognier9 TASTED 2007 HHHH 2010 HHH6 AWARDED Delicate nose with 7 TASTED Lifted, ripe tropical very nice fresh, yeasty 3 AWARDED aromas and an elegant,Strong line-up of \"good, characters. Stylish, fruit salad-like palate. $26safe drinkers\", said the elegant palate with A group of pleasant, easy-judges, \"offering value pleasant, sherbety to-drink, quaffing wines. Oakvale Block The Alchemistsfor money.\" flavours and good level of 37 Hunter Valley Premium Block yeasty characters. $29.50 Peter Lehmann Verdelho 2010 HHH Selection Margaret Wyndham Estate Bin Layers Adelaide Melons and lemons on River Sauvignon 555 SEA Sparkling White Blend nose and palate. Some Blanc Semillon Shiraz NV HHH 2010 HHH1/2 residual sugar but has 2010 HHH Estery nose with age Oily fruit nose with balancing acid. $25 Light, simple, herbaceous complexity, and a muscat overtones and style - crisp and dry - with balanced, spicy palate. pinot gris-like dry, chalky SAUVIGNON some tropical/pea pod Excellent future! $15.99 flavours. Offers pleasant BLANC notes. $16 Michelini lunchtime drinking. $16 & BLENDS Pertaringa Chardonnay Pinot Scarecrow Adelaide Cuvee NV HHH Jacob's Creek Three 15 TASTED Sauvignon Blanc Creamy, developed Vines Semillon 4 AWARDED 2010 HHH yeasty/strawberry nose Sauvignon Blanc Sweet aromas with an and nice balance of Viognier 2009 HHH The judges found too apple-like element. Good citrusy flavours. $20 Clean, fresh, varietal many disappointing length of fresh spicy/ Kies Barossa Valley fruit bouquet and an wines lacking fruit herbal flavours. $18 Sparkling Gabriella attractive grassy, fresh flavours. The better 2009 HHH palate. $14.99 wines showed more Pleasant moscato-like depth and balance, with style, with sweet citrus Bimbadgen Ridge semillon again showing fruits and balancing Semillon Verdelho its value as a blender. acidity. $20 ChardonnayChocolate Box by Jansz Tasmania Brut 2009 HHHRocland Barossa Cuvee 2005 HHH Smells like a fruit saladValley Sparkling Ripe melon aromas with and has some nicelyShiraz 2008 HHHH a steely, green melon balanced spicy/floral Peter SimicDark chocolate and palate. Excellent acid flavours. $15 Editor/publisher Winestatejammy fruit aromas lift out structure. $39.95 Magazine. More than 30 years’ OTHER WHITE experience in the wine industry.the glass. Intense sweet VARIETALS Formerly founding publisher offruit flavours with nice a US wine magazine, managerbalancing acid - a touch 8 TASTED of the SA Wine Informationastringent. Good cellaring 3 AWARDED Bureau, and wine educator withpotential. 5+ $28 Regency College of TAFE in Mixed bag from these SA. Peter is also a regular wine fruity varieties, with a commentator on national radio handful worth looking at. and television programs.70 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingQuarisa 30 Mile SEA RIESLING Howard ParkSauvignon Blanc Museum2009 HHH 12 TASTED Release WesternSlightly sour aromas and 10 AWARDED Australia Rieslinga very sweet, citrusy 2006 HHHH1/2palate finishing clean The judges thought Complexity of toastyand dry. $8.99 this was a superb floral/lime aromas. Great class. \"Why can't we example of a fresh, lively, get this through to the citrusy palate that's consumers?\" asked ageing beautifully with one judge. \"These offer lovely advanced toasty excellent drinking; far flavours. 5+ $30 better than many of the other white varieties Stephen John going around.\" Watervale Clare Valley Riesling 2010 HHHH Lovely ripe lime/citrus fruit aromas, followed by a very dry, tight palate with great lime-flavoured length with excellent minerally overtones. $25 Peter Lehmann Heggies Eden Valley Art Series Eden Riesling 2010 HHHHH Valley Dry Riesling Lovely fresh varietal fruit 2009 HHHHH obvious here. Delicate Lovely green hues, floral nuances on the with steely citrus notes nose, leading to a crisp, to the nose, followed lively palate laced with by a tangy lime/lemon long, lingering, minerally-Streicker Bridgeland fruit palate with a like lemon and spicyBlock Margaret mouthwatering finish. flavours. Very goodRiver Sauvignon Has excellent potential wine. $24.95Semillon 2009 HHH to become a classic agedBig wine made in a riesling. 5+ $12 Peter Lehmannwhite burgundy style. Art SeriesNutty/savoury notes and Pewsey Vale Barossa Riesling Trevor Jones Bistropleasant dry end. $32.50 Eden Valley Riesling 2008 HHHH1/2 Boots Eden Valley 2010 HHHHH Excellent complex, yet Riesling 2010 HHHHPINOT Excellent green colour very fresh, riesling. Unctuous, spicy, varietalGRIGIO/GRIS with ripe fruit nose; Great lift of fresh lime fruit bouquet with clean and elegant. juice/lemon zest aromas excellent rose petal lift.7 TASTED Lovely stylish palate - and lovely retained Crisp and citrusy in the1 AWARDED very flavoursome, with freshness on the palate mouth - very elegant nice spicy characters with its crisp lively palate with a cleansingDifficult variety to grow and showing structure, flavours. $12 finish. $18and make, so the results length and a long,here were not surprising. astringent finish. $20TrenthamLa Famiglia PinotGrigio 2010 HHHFresh, spicy lift to theestery nose. Good crispflavours and a dryingfinish. $16 JUDGESStephen John Ian Hongell Kerry MorrisonOwner/winemaker of Winemaker for Peter Winemaker with PeterStephen John Wines. More Lehmann Wines. Has Lehmann Wines. Hasthan 30 years’ winemaking completed vintages in completed the Advancedexperience. Has judged California, Germany and Wine Assessment Courseat Adelaide, National, and France, and has had at the Australian WineBarossa Wine Shows. seven Australian vintages Research Institute. JudgeRegular Winestate panellist as a winemaker. Has at the Brisbane Wineand chairman of judges at been an associate judge Festival and associatethe Winestate Wine of the at the Griffith Wine Show judge at Melbourne andYear Awards. and has judged the NSW Barossa wine shows. Wine of the Year. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 71

NEW RELEASESPatrick Estate SEMILLON Pokolbin Estate Ken Bird in Hand AdelaideWrattonbully Bray Hunter Valley Hills ChardonnayRiesling 2009 HHHH 13 TASTED Semillon 2010 HHHH 2009 HHHHHLight, lifted lime/citrus 7 AWARDED Smells like orange Interesting and veryaromas and a very crisp, marmalade with a spicy/ well made wine withalert palate packed with Exciting class offering floral edge. Lots of excellent colour thatlively citrus flavours, wines that can be drunk lovely soft, sweet citrus shows green hues and iswith some residual now or put away for flavours with obvious full of lovely ripe, creamysugar sweetness adding further development. residual sugar. Excellent varietal fruit, sweetweight. $18.95 \"Many of these are like finish. $25 balancing oak and rich crisp Chablis wines,\" malo characters. $25Chateau Tanunda suggested one judge. Briar Ridge Orlando St HilaryThe Chateau Vineyard Karl PadthawayEden Valley Riesling Stockhausen Hunter Chardonnay2010 HHH Valley Semillon 2009 HHHH1/2Pleasant floral nose and 2010 HHH1/2 Very interesting ripe,slightly extracted dry lime Smells of freshly cut creamy and complexflavours. Give it time. $20 grass. Delicate palate, wine with excellent creamy texture and green colour and someNaked Run The First full of pleasant citrus very nicely focusedClare Valley Riesling flavours. $26 creamy cashew oak and2009 HHH citrus fruit aromas andMelon/lemon nose with Briar Ridge Vineyard flavours. $18.99pungent overtones. Early Harvest HunterWeighty palate with crisp Valley Semillon Warner Glencitrus flavours. Drink now 2010 HHH Estate Margaretor cellar. 3-5 $19 Delicate, clean-cut lemon River Chardonnay nose and soft lemon 2009 HHHH1/2 flavours. Drink now or Soft, creamy peach/SEMILLON cellar. 3-5 $21 melon fruit with a lovelySAUVIGNON oak background. StylishBLANC Oakvale Gold Rock nose and smooth, broad Semillon 2010 HHH palate with excellent10 TASTED Very elegant varietal peach/citrus flavours and bouquet and a hints of malo. $302 AWARDED harmonious balance of lemony flavours. $22.50Lots of borderline wines Watermarkand a few with faults, Pokolbin Estate Chardonnaybut overall they were Phil Swannell 2009 HHHHmore lacking in flavour Koolama On the Hill Hunter Valley Stewed melon pulpthan anything else. Manjimup Semillon Semillon 2010 HHH nose with a big lift of 2007 HHHH1/2 Honeydew melon nose new oak. Complex,Link Western Complex and elegant with a mealy character, stylish palate with niceAustralia Semillon wine with citrusy and crisp lemon cashew/lemon flavoursSauvignon Blanc aromas showing a flavours. 1-2 $25 and a long, crisp acid2008 HHH1/2 touch of honeyed, finish. $15Subtle herbal aromas botrytis-like characters.with interesting edge of Nicely integrated varietal CHARDONNAY McLeish Estatecitrus peel. Palate has flavours. Still crisp and Reserve Hunterlovely mouthfeel and youthful, with a clean 28 TASTED Valley Chardonnaycrisp flavours. $14.95 finish. $25 2009 HHHH 9 AWARDED Lovely fresh, tightAudrey WilkinsonHunter Valley Briar Ridge Vineyard The judges were stone-fruit, harmoniousMarlborough pleased! \"Some lovely oak and zippy acidity.Semillon Sauvignon Dairy Hill Single wines here, moving Restrained, elegant wineBlanc 2009 HHH Vineyard Hunter back to more elegantLight, fresh fruit salad Valley Semillon styles rather than the with excellent cellaringaromas and good, well- oaky monsters of the potential. 5+ $25balanced, sweet citrus 2010 HHHH past,\" they agreed. Theflavours. $19.99 Very light, elegant varietal lesser wines weren't nose - smells of lemons faulty but just lacked Howard Park interest or freshness. Western Australia and hay. Similar palate Chardonnay that's tight and fresh, with an astringent finish. Has 2008 HHHH Mature, nutty/savoury/ potential. 5+ $29 creamy/cashew nose. Solid fruit/toasty oak flavours good underlying tight lemony acid. Lovely style. 3-5 $4072 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingSerafino Reserve ROSE Beelgara Estate De Bortoli Estate Patrick Estate MountMcLaren Vale Range SEA Rose Grown Yarra Valley Gambier Pinot NoirChardonnay 8 TASTED 2010 HHH Pinot Noir 2008 HHH2009 HHH 3 AWARDED Stewed candied fruit 2008 HHH1/2 Tarry oak/stone-fruitLovely nose; barrel aromas and pleasant, Lovely pinot varietal aromas and complexferment, oak and fruit. A few nice wines, and sweet, strawberry spice lifts off the nose, spicy/strawberry palateTight, oaky palate with a number that were flavours with good followed by a simple with tight acid spine. $30some developed, leesy borderline cases. acidity. $8.99 palate with sour cherrynotes. $18 \"The balance of acid and flavours and soft, furry Lost LakeAnvers Adelaide sugar is critical here,\" Peter Lehmann tannins. $38 Barrel SelectionHills Chardonnay said one judge. Art Series Barossa Tomich Hill Adelaide Pemberton Pinot2009 HHH Rose 2010 HHH Hills Pinot Noir Noir 2008 HHHLovely bright green Mad Fish Western Dolly pink colour, lifted 2009 HHH Excellent depth of pinotcolour, elegant fruit salad Australia Sangiovese strawberry lolly fruit and Powerful dark cherry fruit with a seamlessnose and tight, crisp, Rose 2010 HHHH astringent finish. Good aromas and good balance of oak. Greatpeach flavours. $24 Lovely bright pink wine food wine. $12 flavour profile of stewed structure. Has potential.Bellwether Tamar with a lifted, estery fruit cherries with tarryValley Chardonnay nose and some simple, PINOT NOIR threads. $30 5+ $352009 HHH pretty, candy floss fruit Mad Fish WesternOld Aussie style well balanced by a good 8 TASTED Australia Pinot Noir MERLOTsmelling of rose petals level of acidity. $17 5 AWARDED 2008 HHHand peaches. Powerful Fresh, spicy nose with 7 TASTEDdry white flavours with a Solid class without great a minty lift. Palate has 6 AWARDEDcrisp end. $50 distinction, tending to structure, texture and be nice red wines rather length. A good drink. $25 Excellent class of merlots. than varietal pinot noirs. \"We are finally seeing fruit coming through from Bordeaux clones rather than the Davis ones,\" commented one judge. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 73



wine & spirit insider tasting Taylors Promised New from B Land South Australia Merlot & 2009 HHH Full, soft and rich, with blackcurrant notes to the nose and youthful plum palate. 5+ $13 Bimbadgen Estate Orange Merlot 2009 HHH Simple primary fruit nose and flavoursome, firm, tannic, stone-fruit palate. $23Churchview Silverleaf K1 by Geoff Hardy BordersMargaret River Merlot Adelaide Hills2008 HHHHH Merlot 2007 HHH Traditional timber style wine rackingLovely deep purple Quite a minty/medicinalcolour. Big, ripe plum nose, with more of Order on-line now atjam nose with a big hit of the mint of the vibrant, www.thewinerackshop.com.aunew oak. Excellent depth green plum palate. $35of youthful varietal fruit or by phoning 1300 781331flavours - nice level of Granite Range Estatespice and good level of Silent Range Estatedrying tannins. $12.50 Merlot 2006 HHH Lovely chocolaty complexity to the nose. Soft in the mouth, with long tannins. $22 OTHER RED BLENDS 5 TASTED 4 AWARDED Small class of solid, The Spaghetti Bowl a grenache-related wines y which performed This is Margaret River’s best and longest established exceptionally well. Eu licensed restaurant. The Spaghetti Bowl is the place where W Mothdeullaorcals love to eat! pr WiTnheeRhaucgkeinogpen log fire provides a warm atmosphere av CCeudcolslofuatomrrMimsnfagorWrgotaauibrrneleectoRloldivuewnrginwetseinraefmtoeorrnaytohliuqsr,umweuehraeclroetoffyeeoenu.jocyaneirtehlearx on the a glass CMichelini Alpine CoTmhme efurclliyalstocked bar offers local and imported beers, spirits, UnValleys Merlot StocroeckFtiaxiltsuraensd an extensive wine list showcasing some of gl2009 HHHHLovely rich, ripe Margaret River’s best wines. PChristmas cake-likenose and a powerful RInosOtourmauladrstitmeidoenWnaul ipinsaesvtearydidsehseisg,naedvatroieptyleoafseseaallfopoadla,tebse.eWf, evehnaisveon, Lopalate that shows good Reccfrhaitigceekrreafnotridodinsifhfeerse,nstadlaidestaaryndredqeuciraedmenetndtse.sAslel rotsf .oWuremceanalsalasroe Pedepth and length and Sypstreempasred fresh and use local produce when possible.lots of peppery/mulberry Wflavours. $18.50 WiWnee Caraebpinroeutsd to support local musicians, who come and Un entertain our guests on Friday and Saturday nights. w pr AWciF1cn1uee7sllsyBourliiscesesenlsleHdigRhewstaayuMraanrtgaret River M 32 Open for DLSuiennencoehurr–7nSneawitgurhratdnsagfyeroo&mf pSr6uopndmduactys 1o1n.3li0naemat:– 2.30pm Open for K Please call 08 9w7w5w7.w29in9e9cetollamrdaeksiegnasr.ceosmer.avuation W or phone 1800 247 968 for a detailed brochure M The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 75

NEW RELEASESBlackbilly McLaren OTHER RED Running With Bulls CABERNET Anvers Brabo SouthVale Grenache VARIETALS Barossa Tempranillo BLENDS Australia CabernetShiraz Mourvedre 2009 HHHH Sauvignon Shiraz2009 HHHHH 17 TASTED \"Very drinkable.\" Fresh, 14 TASTED 2009 HHHYouthful, vibrant wine 9 AWARDED lifted, ripe cherry 5 AWARDED Lift of fresh oak andthat shows a spicy lift to Always an interesting bouquet and medium- Big difference here sweet, ripe fruit on thethe grenache-dominated class, with the best new weight, beautifully between the '07s, being nose, and a soft and verynose and a soft, unctuous \"Old World\" varieties textured, savoury palate a cool vintage producing flavoursome palate. $12palate loaded with sweet worth trying as an with simple cherry green, unripe wines,and spicy stone-fruit alternative drink. But flavours. $22.95 and the warmer '08 and Forester Estateflavours. Good cellaring there were others that Hugh Hamilton '09 years. Margaret Riverpotential. 5+ $22 were just too 'left-field'. The Oddball McLaren Cabernet Merlot Watershed Vale Saperavi Churchview 2008 HHHNaked Run The Aldo Senses Margaret 2008 HHHH Margaret River Minty and pepperyOld Vine Barossa River Zinfandel Intense crimson wine. Cabernet Merlot aromas. Mid-weightValley Grenache 2009 HHHHH Amazing stewed 2008 HHHH palate, solid flavours,Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 \"A very different wine,\" beetroot characters on Lovely complex nose drying tannins. $20Moody nose with some said one judge. Massive the nose and a powerful of stylish fruit, barrelcharry oak and stone- black cherry fruit and hit of fruit on a palate ferment characters and CABERNETfruits. Lovely confection- oak aromas with mealy/ balanced by good acid/ new oak. Long, lingering SAUVIGNONsweet fruit palate with peppery complexity and tannin backbone. $45 blackberry flavours withwarm alcoholic finish. $19 an intense, spicy fruit Watershed Shades nice furry-like tannins. 30 TASTED cake palate with fine Single Block 12 AWARDED tannins and a savoury Margaret River 5+ $18.50 finish. $24.95 Cabernet Franc Willunga 100 \"This is a case of the 2009 HHH McLaren Vale good, the bad and the Tapestry MV Simple herbaceous nose Cabernet Shiraz ugly,\" agreed the judges. McLaren Vale with lots of oak. Similar 2009 HHH There were far too many Old Vine Grenache palate, soft and spicy in Bright crimson wine still overripe, dead fruit wines 2009 HHHH1/2 the mouth. $16.95 very raw and needing from the hotter vintages Bright red/purple wine full Michelini Alpine more time. Great fruit and green fruit from the of lovely fresh, ripe berry Valleys Teroldego intensity - plenty of new '07s. But on a positive fruit showing a spicy lift. 2009 HHH oak. $23 note, there are still some Beautifully balanced palate Very soft, approachable Tiger's Tale very nice examples to try. with some excellent wine. Big, rich merlot/ Margaret RiverShanahans The sweet new oak and a shiraz-like fruit Cabernet SauvignonBarking Dog GSM long, cleansing finish. $25 characters. Good flavour Merlot 2008 HHHBarossa Valley length. $18.50 Stylish wine; fairlyGrenache Shiraz Crabtree Watervale lean and herbaceous.Mataro 2008 HHH Clare Valley Good primary fruit.Oak-dominated nose Tempranillo Cellaring potential.with ripe jammy fruit 2009 HHHbehind it. Soft and Lovely varietal lift on 5+ $19.95flavoursome palate. $30 the nose. Primary fruit flavours perfectlyPeter Lehmann balanced with 'serious' ChurchviewLayers Barossa Red oak. $22 Margaret RiverBlend 2008 HHH WatershedBeautifully balanced red Senses Margaretblend with lovely peppery/ River Sangiovesespicy/savoury characters. 2009 HHHGreat for a barbecue. $16 Complex, savoury red berry nose with chewy varietal flavours and tannin Cabernet Sauvignon astringency. $24.95 2008 HHHH Capercaillie Hunter Lovely fresh oak mingling Valley Petit Verdot with rich fruit aromas. 2009 HHH Typical inky nose and vibrant palate with an intense concentration of berry flavours. $25 Beautifully balanced palate, nice depth of varietal fruit. Has elegance and tight tannins. A keeper. 5+ $18.5076 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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NEW RELEASES Quarisa Johnny Q McLeish Estate Anvers Razorback South Australia Hunter Valley Road Adelaide Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Hills Shiraz 2008 HHHH 2009 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon One for the cellar. Simple, youthful wine 2008 HHH1/2 Dense cassis/oak with fresh, lifted Still a baby! Fresh and bouquet and nice depth varietal fruit aromas and vibrant and brimming of blackberry fruit flavours. $22 over with plum and flavours at the riper end berry-like varietal fruit of the spectrum. Nicely Forester Estate characters. $20 structured palate. $11.99 Margaret River Reilly's Wines The Cabernet Sauvignon J&J Vineyards Dancer Clare Valley 2008 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Light, elegant, cool- Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHHH climate style with lovely 2009 HHH Flavoursome wine with cassis fruit and chewy Dense, brooding, spicy/ a lovely colour, lifted, oak. $30 berry nose and simple, fresh, ripe cabernet fruit youthful, palate with a and lovely new oak. Taltarni Pyrenees firm finish. $14.90 Has a minty nose and Cabernet SauvignonCrabtree Windmill excellent palate depth 2007 HHH Hugh Hamilton Simpatico WinesVineyard Watervale and length. $45 Tarry aromas from the Jekyll & Hyde Stonewell ShirazClare Valley Twisted Gum oak, and dry red flavours McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHHHHCabernet Sauvignon Granite Belt on a mid-weight palate. Viognier 2008 HHH Excellent bright red colour.2008 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Big, alcoholic wine. Beautiful lifted, ripe redSolid black wine - 2009 HHH1/2 5+ $32 Excellent colour, lifted berry aromas layeredexcellent colour with Intense barrel ferment mocha aromas and with new oak. Amazingripe, almost raisined, and charry oak nose. SHIRAZ strong, tannic palate. $45 palate with massive redfruit characters, lots of Powerful palate with BLENDS berry and sweet fresh oakspices and a very nice impressive acid and very SHIRAZ flavours with furry tannintight tannin structure fresh fruit. $22 17 TASTED support. 5+ $80bringing it together. $22 Jacob's Creek 5 AWARDED 58 TASTEDBellwether Reserve South 27 AWARDEDCoonawarra Australia Cabernet \"A bit disappointing,\"Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon agreed the judges. \"Apples and oranges,\"2006 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 A few wines showed said one judge! \"ThereCedary/cassis bouquet Plums, blackberry and winemaking faults of are some lovely '09sand tight, clean palate mint on the nose, and volatility, oxidation or coming in. With thewith excellent structure a fresh palate with oak bacteria. Then there '08s we see a differenceand a leanness of fruit/ cassis fruit and gentle, were others that were between those pickedoak flavours with a astringent tannins. $16.99 too simple or overripe. before the heat and aftertannin/acid balance. $50 Edwards Once again the best it. The big problem is the Margaret River came to the fore. overripeness and what Cabernet Sauvignon is referred to as 'dead 2008 HHH1/2 Jacob's Creek fruit' characters. Simple sour fruit aromas Johann South and rich, sweet cassis Australia Shiraz Sticks No 29 Jacob's Creek flavours with drying oak Cabernet Strathbogie Ranges Centenary Hill and lots of pepper and 2004 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHHHH Barossa Valley spice elements. $35 Developed aromas with Lovely depth of rich Shiraz 2006 HHHHH Lost Lake Barrel a light herbaceous edge. stonefruit-like characters Gorgeous musky aromas Select Pemberton Soft and smooth in the here with some that are a complexity Cabernet Sauvignon mouth, with lovely silky beautiful spicy notes, of fruit, spices and 2008 HHH1/2 tannins and spicy green and all seamlessly oak. Great chocolaty/ Stylish fresh blackberry/ flavours. Still amazingly balanced by excellent cassis palate with lovely cassis-driven wine. Rich fresh but with mature oak. It's fresh and alert bottle age characters and fruity on the nose; characters. $78.99 and with years ahead of developing and wrapped tight and alert in the it. 5+ $45 in soft tannins. $53.99 mouth. $35 Longview Vineyard Red Bucket Adelaide Hills Shiraz Cabernet 2008 HHH1/2 Big, rich, fruit pastille nose with a big, minty lift. Powerful tannic palate has a jammy fruit/ oak astringency balance. 3-5 $15.5078 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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NEW RELEASES Rees Miller Simpatico Wines Jarrah Ridge Winery Thousand Hills Barossa Shiraz Milly Milly Western Upper Goulburn 2008 HHH1/2 Australia Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Great colour, black fruit 2009 HHH Lovely rich style with nose with minty notes Lovely fresh, ripe spicy/ spicy, red berry type of and plump berry palate peppery shiraz fruit fruit with new oak to with a spine of soft with drying tannins to balance and underscored tannins. $35 balance. $18 by the acid. 5+ $24 Forester Estate Howard Park Leston Margaret River Margaret River Jarrah Ridge Wines Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHH Reserve Chittering Spices and pepper lift Big, rich, fruit-cake nose. Perth Hills Shiraz off the nose. Elegant, Soft in the mouth. Plenty 2008 HHH1/2 fresh, spicy, blueberry of ripe fruit balanced by Smoky herbal characters palate with some nice acid and oak. $40 on the nose. Similar complexity and soft Howard Park palate with medicinal tannins. $20 Scotsdale Great notes and elegant, spicy Chateau Tanunda Southern Shiraz touches. $28 Barossa Tower 2008 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHH Bright, high tone varietalFox Creek Red jb wines Barossa Tim Smith Wines Smells of sweet licorice fruit on the nose and aBaron McLaren Vale Valley Shiraz Barossa Shiraz and stone-fruits. Similar simple, well-balancedShiraz 2009 HHHH 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 characters on the cassis palate. $40Well-made, fresh, young Huge, complex Huge wine with rich youthful palate. Nutty Churchviewwine with dense charry/ chocolate/black fruit jammy/fruit cake finish. $18 Margaret Riverprune-like nose and well- nose and beautiful aromas and flavours and Shiraz 2008 HHHstructured, spicy palate juicy-sweet flavours on a cedar oak overtones. Big, rich, broodingwith firm tannins and silky-smooth palate with nose. Warm, softlingering flavours. Time! a warming alcohol finish. 5+ $32 palate with spicy fruit and new oak. $18.50 3-5 $17.50 3-5 $30 wine snobs — we nose best —Welcome to the world of wine snobsOrder any 12 bottles of wine from our huge selection to receive our super prices. We will then deliver it free straight to your door anywhere in Australia within 5 to 7working days. Ordering 12 bottles of wine will give you access to our huge range of discounted spirits which we will also deliver free. Join our Loyalty program to startearning reward dollars. WATERSHED WILD OATS RANGE OYSTER BAY SHIRAZ PINOT NOIR $17.99 $14.99 $15.99 with any 12 with any 12 with any 12 bottles of wine bottles of wine bottles of wine purchased purchased purchased JOHNNIE WALKER CHIVAS REGAL PASSION HAS BLUE RED LIPS $37.99 $199.99 $19.99 with any 12 with any 12 bottles of wine with any 12 bottles of wine purchased bottles of wine purchased purchased Winestate Reviewed WinesAny wine you see reviewed in winestate magazine, we can get the wine in for you and deliver it free of charge straight to your door. Jump on our website below and use our product request tab to send through what wine you are after. winesnobs.com.au80 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingHugh Hamilton The Jacob's Creek Chateau Tanunda Saddler's CreekRascal McLaren Vale Reserve South Barossa Tower Exclusif Muscat NVShiraz 2008 HHH Australia Shiraz Moscato 2010 HHH (375ml) HHHHBig spicy/peppery/minty 2007 HHH Intense, fruity, muscat Tea leaf and toffeenumber brimming over Nicely balanced, vibrant, nose and very sweet, bouquet with a floral lift.with flavour and with a mid-weight wine with sherbety flavours on a Beautiful luscious raisin/gorgeous colour. $24.50 subtle fruit, new oak and soft palate. $15 cinnamon/toffee flavoursSerafino soft tannins. $16.99 with excellent toasty oakMcLaren Vale Shiraz Pertaringa South to balance and a warm2008 HHH Taltarni Pyrenees Australia Moscato finish. $36Lifted, savoury aromas Shiraz 2007 HHH 2010 HHHand generous prune fruit Seamless oak/fruit Spicy/musky bouquet, Bimbadgen Estatepalate with well-handled aromas showing some lingering sweet fruit Myall Road Botrytisoak to balance. $26 development, and an flavours, tight acid and Semillon 2007Balgownie elegant berry/cedar good bubbles. $18 (375ml) HHH1/2Estate Bendigo palate. 5+ $36 Golden wine with niceShiraz 2008 HHH SWEET fresh citrus nose. LovelyHuge, 'blocky' wine with Taltarni Heathcote WHITE/RED depth of luscious sweetvery ripe flavour profile Shiraz 2006 HHH & FORTIFIED fruit with nicely balancingof sweet stone-fruits Mature, complex acid backbone. $26and tarry oak. $40 bouquet and powerful 6 TASTEDJames Haselgrove tannic palate, slippery in 4 AWARDED Monichino Vintage Lou Miranda EstateWines Futures the mouth and with aged Fortified 2008 HHH Leone RiverinaMcLaren Vale Shiraz chewy flavours. $32 Interesting range of Lovely licorice/spiced Botrytis Semillon2008 HHH sweeties to cover all fruit nose, well-balanced 2008 (375ml) HHHBig, ripe, porty fruit and MOSCATO consumer preferences. palate, raisined flavours, Syrupy toffee aromas withlots of new oak. Great Just pick your level of excellent spirit, sweet a hint of lychees. Morestructure. High level of 6 TASTED sweetness and flavour finish. $20 lychees on a very sweet,alcohol. $55 depth and off you go! creamy palate. $18.95 2 AWARDED Cnr Main & Johnston Rds, McLaren Vale SA 5171p: 08 8323 8830 e: [email protected] w: www.leconfieldwines.com The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 81

TOP 40Trentham De Bortoli Sacred Hill H by Haselgrove Naked Run Patrick EstateLa Famiglia Semillon Sauvignon Semillon Sauvignon The First Clare WrattonbullyPinot Grigio 2010 Blanc 2009 Blanc 2009 Valley Riesling 2009 Riesling 2009Fresh, spicy lift to the Subtle fruit salad Sweaty and pungent Melon/lemon nose with Light, lifted lime/citrusestery nose. Good crisp aromas; slightly floral. passionfruit and pungent overtones. aromas and a very crisp,flavours and a drying Lots of brown lime-like gooseberry aromas lead Weighty palate with crisp alert palate packed withfinish. $16 flavours. $7.50 onto a vibrant palate full citrus flavours. Drink now lively citrus flavours, of rich, lingering, sweaty, or cellar. 3-5 $15 with some residual green pea flavours. $12 sugar sweetness adding weight. $18.95THE TOP 40 BEST BUYS LISTING TO QUALIFYis updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are 1 Wines must have first been recommended instill available - remain in the next issue’s Top 40 Best Buys group. Others will sell Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings. Styleout, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. Price is a major factor in selection. tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg, shiraz,The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Top 40 Best Buys listing comprises the best wines chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as shiraz/currently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ cabernet wines.from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Top 40Best Buys listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that 2 Wines from designated regional tastings arewould otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. eligible provided they are widely available.HOW IT WORKS 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in many liquor stores.In each issue Winestate’s publisher Peter Simic selects the highest-rated winesat specific price points. All wines have previously been judged for Winestate by 4 No cellar door-only wines are eligible.panels of expert judges.82 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Pertaringa Bonfire Orlando St Hilary Peter Lehmann Churchview Jacob's CreekBlock Adelaide Padthaway Art Series Barossa Silverleaf Margaret Reserve SouthSemillon 2009 Chardonnay 2009 Rosé 2010 River Merlot 2008 Australia CabernetNutty nose with Very interesting ripe, Dolly pink colour, lifted Lovely deep purple Sauvignon 2008marzipan-like notes. creamy and complex strawberry lolly fruit and colour. Big, ripe plum Plums, blackberry andWoody palate has sweet wine with excellent astringent finish. Good jam nose with a big hit mint on the nose, andvarietal fruit flavours green colour and some food wine. $12 of new oak. Excellent a fresh palate withshowing. $18 very nicely focused depth of youthful varietal cassis fruit and gentle, creamy cashew oak and fruit flavours - nice level astringent tannins. $16.99 citrus fruit aromas and of spice and good level flavours. $18.99 of drying tannins. $12.50OTHER WHITE WINES Oakover Wines Western Australia Semillon best buys Sauvignon Blanc 2009Quarisa 30 Mile SEA Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Quinces and apples on the nose, with some 20less thanSlightly sour aromas and a very sweet, citrusy palate toastiness. Attractive, well-balanced, clean, crisp,finishing clean and dry. $8.99 green lime flavours. $17.99 $Chalkers Crossing Hilltops Semillon 2009 Jacob's Creek Three Vines Semillon SauvignonLifted lemon and green lime aromas. Zesty lemony Blanc Viognier 2009flavours mingle with attractive fruit salad characters. Clean, fresh, varietal fruit bouquet and an attractiveGood supporting acid backbone. $18 grassy, fresh palate. $14.99Heritage Wines Barossa Semillon 2010 Penmara Wines The White Ribbon Hunter ValleyGreat example of the varietal. Smells of freshly cut Semillon 2009grass with hints of beans and lemongrass. Excellent Lemon sherbet and green bean nose, and sweet limebalance of estery, acidic flavours. $15 cordial-like flavours. $9.95 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 83

TOP 40Bimbadgen Ridge Barking Owl Western Jip Jip Rocks J&J Vineyards Peter LehmannShiraz Cabernet Australia Shiraz Padthaway Shiraz McLaren Vale Layers BarossaMerlot 2008 Viognier 2008 Cabernet 2009 HHH Shiraz Cabernet Red Blend 2008Delicate fragrances of Full-bodied wine with a Slightly herbal red fruit Sauvignon 2009 Beautifully balancedviolets and spices. Palate spicy/peppery bouquet nose. Oak-derived vanilla Dense, brooding, spicy/ red blend with lovelya nice mix of spices and intense varietal fruit and chocolate notes on berry nose and simple, peppery/spicy/savourythat complement the palate with balancing the fruity palate. $16.95 youthful, palate with a characters. Great for ablackcurrant fruit. $15 tannins and long, lingering firm finish. $14.90 barbecue. $16 aftertaste. $17.95TOP 40 Wyndham Estate SEA Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009 OTHER RED WINES Fresh and zesty citrus sherbet-like aromas, and a stylish fruit salad palate with a slight herbal lift. Long Michelini Alpine Valleys Merlot 2009 and slightly drying finish. $15.99 Lovely rich, ripe Christmas cake-like nose and a powerful palate that shows good depth and length Watermark Chardonnay 2009 and lots of peppery/mulberry flavours. $18.50 Stewed melon pulp nose with a big lift of new oak. Complex, stylish palate with nice cashew/lemon Quarisa Johnny Q South Australia Cabernet flavours and a long, crisp acid finish. $15 Sauvignon 2008 One for the cellar. Dense cassis/oak bouquet and nice depth of blackberry fruit flavours at the riper end of the spectrum. Nicely structured palate. $11.99 Earthworks Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 Strawberry conserve nose with a dash of pepper, and nice concentration of varietal flavours. $14.9984 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Aldi Stores Aldi Stores Beach Head DiGiorgio Family DogRidgeCobblers Lane SEA St Amber SEA Shiraz 2009 Sterita Limestone The Pup McLarenShiraz 2008 Shiraz 2008 Combination of rhubarb Coast Shiraz 2006 Vale LanghorneVibrant colour and Nice dry red style with and wild berry aromas Some leathery Creek Shiraz 2008interesting nuances blackberry and stewed with lots of berry and development to the oaky Lifted, leathery, redof lavender and white cherries on both nose plum flavours. Youthful, nose. Oak dominates berry nose. More ofpepper mingle with fruit and palate. $6.99 with lots of character. $16 palate but has the fruit the same on the palate,on the nose and good to carry it. $14.99 with very grippy tannins.weight of confectionery- Time! $18like fruit on a softpalate. $9.99Buller Black Dog Creek King Valley Shiraz 2008 Kirrihill Tullymore Vineyard Clare Valley Shiraz 2008 best buysSpicy blackcurrant nose with some pencil shavings-like oak. Good length of complex, balanced, fruit/ Extremely intense, youthful wine smelling of fresh 20less thanoak flavours with a warming alcohol finish. $15 licorice and blackberry jam. Licorice-like flavours $Barossa Valley Estate E Minor Barossa ValleyShiraz 2008 blend with berry fruits. Give it time. 5+ $18.99Rich aromas reminiscent of Black Forest cake,followed by a well-structured palate rich with varietal Lobethal Road Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2007fruit and finishing long and smooth. $15 Bright, lifted cassis nose and firm, light-bodiedCool Woods South Australia Shiraz 2008Hints of cedar and vanilla on the nose and rich, ripe, palate with a seamless balance of fruit and finesweet fruit flavours with balancing tannins and alingering finish. $13.99 tannins. 3-5 $18 McPherson Curious SEA Shiraz 2009 Intense Ribena nose with layers of toasty oak. On the palate the oak integrates seamlessly with berry fruits. $10.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 85

TOP 40Four Sisters Fox Creek Fox Gordon Eight Grant Burge Barossa Hungerford HillShiraz 2008 Red Baron McLaren Uncles Barossa Shiraz 2008 Fishcage SouthernRed berry, vanilla Vale Shiraz 2009 Valley Shiraz 2007 Lovely jammy fruit New South Walesand menthol aromas Well-made, fresh, young Red cherry aromas with intensity, with the oak Shiraz 2009lift out of the glass. wine with dense charry/ some citrus. Bright, starting to integrate Full-bodied wine withRound and flavoursome prune-like nose and well- simple palate with seamlessly. 3-5 $18 abundant rich berrypalate. $15.65 structured, spicy palate slight rhubarb flavours. fruit flavours perfectly with firm tannins and balanced by the oak and lingering flavours. Time! 3-5 $19.95 tannins. $17.99 3-5 $17.50TOP 40 St Hallett Faith Barossa Shiraz 2008 Water Wheel Memsie Homestead Bendigo Shiraz Assertive wine with loads of ripe berry fruit, Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 balancing chocolaty oak and attractive leathery Interesting intensity of Bonox and aniseed aromas. development. $19 Bold fruit palate has savoury tannins. $15 Taylors Promised Land South Australia Yalumba The Y Series South Australia Shiraz Shiraz Cabernet 2008 Viognier 2008 Rich, fruit-driven wine nicely supported by a Earthy nose opens up to strawberry-like aromas. More backbone of toasty/mocha oak. $13 strawberries evident on the firm, tannic palate. $12.95 Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Barossa Shiraz 2008 Yalumba Galway Vintage Traditional Shiraz 2008 Spicy plum nose with savoury elements. Dark berry Nice toasty oak aromas with Cherry Ripe-like characters. fruits fill the soft palate with flavour; some tarry notes. Very enjoyable. $14.95 Big, flavoursome sweet berry fruit palate. Nice viscosity. Quite drying on the finish. 3-5 $19.9986 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Monichino Red Knot by Rosedale Wines Warrenmang Bazzani Wild OatsShiraz 2008 Shingleback McLaren Chook Shed Barossa Pyrenees Shiraz South AustraliaFresh licorice and spice on Vale Shiraz 2008 Shiraz 2008 Cabernet 2007 Shiraz 2007the nose, and chocolaty/ Chocolate, aniseed Hints of chocolate on Huge peppery/fruit Interesting earthy/tarry palate with hints of and spices on the the ripe, stewed fruit cake-like aromas and chocolaty/violet aromasstrawberries. $16 nose. Good intensity of nose. Oak tending to big, powerful, ripe with a hint of pepper, mentholly blackcurrant dominate the palate, flavours with massive followed by a pretty, flavours and good tannin with sweet fruit tannins. $13 silky-smooth, floral structure. $14.95 underneath. $12 palate. $18.99 Issue 113 | Setember/October 2010Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care isPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, butManaging Editor the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Printing DAI Rubicon arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.distalliance.comAdministrationVicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. WINESTATE is published seven times a year by Telephone (08) 8357 9277Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Facsimile (08) 8357 9212Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. E-mail [email protected] Copyright 2010 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. Website www.winestate.com.auPeter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied,Marketing Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to anySue Lumb E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 87

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how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human andOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above their own preference will influence theirare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, scores. We use judges with complementaryprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 backgrounds and a three-person panel forguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but each flight will include winemakers withachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there technical expertise and often a marketing/in an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ retail expert who knows consumer tastes.There are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system Often one or more of the judges are Mastersand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means of Wine with vast international experience,we approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. and most judges have experience at majorA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system Australian wine shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, forWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more example, we will have a winemaker judgeprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other from that region because that person knowsclass being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the the local style. We may balance that with aregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne judge from outside the region and generallywines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. someone with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 89

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. 1999 $85 GREENOCK CREEK 1987 $210 2000 $40  1998 $85 2000 $95 Roennfeldt Rd 1988 $300 2001 $30 1999 $75 2001 $80  Shiraz 1989 $240 2002 $40 2000 $80 1995 $370 2002 $70 1990 $460 2003 $30 2001 $70 2003 $80 1996 $320  1991 $370 2004 $30 2002 $65 E & E Black 2004 $75 1997 $190 1992 $350 2005 $40 2003 $60 Pepper Shiraz 2005 $85 DE BORTOLI 1998 $3801990 $85 2006 $90 Noble One (375ml) 1999 $180 1993 $300 2005 $35 2004 $601991 $90 2007 $90 1990 $45 1994 $340 2005 $601992 $56 1991 $40 2000 $220 1995 $340 1993 $65 2001 $2401994 $65 1992 $25 2002 $400 1996 $5001995 $65 1997 $3201996 $110  CLARENDON HILLS 1993 $30 2003 $200 1998 $520 1997 $70 Astralis Shiraz 1994 $461998 $100 1994 $220 1995 $38 2003 $350 1999 $380  Georgia’s Paddock1999 $75 1990 $1102000 $75  1995 $210 1996 $50 2001 $360 1991 $602001 $65 Roennfeldt Road 2002 $440 1992 $802002 $85 1996 $300 1997 $35 Cabernet 2004 $500 1993 $95 Chardonnay2003 $54 1998 $45 1994 $85 Art Series2004 $65 1997 $250 1999 $30 Sauvignon 2005 $350 1995 $752005 $70 1998 $320 1996 $70 1990 $60 1999 $310 2000 $35 1995 $300 1997 $65 1991 $70 1996 $200 Hill of Grace 1998 $90 1992 $75 2000 $270 2001 $24 1997 $165 Magnum 1999 $70 1993 $68 2002 $45 2000 $75 1994 $80 2001 $300 2003 $24 1998 $300 1980 $480 2001 $80 1995 $110  2002 $320 2002 $85 1996 $65 2003 $210 2004 $25 1999 $220 1981 Not Released 2003 $80 1997 $100  2000 $210 2004 $75 1998 $70 2004 $350 2006 $30 1982 $530 2005 $65  1999 $85 2001 $250  1983 $550  2006 $65 2000 $75 2005 $320 2006 $30 2002 $260 1984 $420 2006 $60 2001 $90 BASS PHILLIP Elderton 2002 $85Premium Pinot Noir 1985 Not Released 2003 $110 CLONAKILLA Command Shiraz 1986 $950 2004 $95 1990 $80 Shiraz Viognier 1990 $120  Grossett 1987 $650 2005 $75 1991 $100 1990 $65 1991 Not Released Polish Hill Riesling 1988 $500 2006 $70 1992 $120 1993 $65 1992 $75 1993 $100 1994 $85 1993 $65 1990 $55 1989 $650 1994 $120 1995 $65 1994 $95 1991 $45 1995 $95 1996 $100 1995 $75 1992 $45 1990 $850 1996 $115 1997 $130  1996 $95 1991 $600 1997 $180 1998 $150  1997 $80 1993 $45 1992 $580 1998 $110 1999 $55 1998 $90 1994 $45 1999 $140 2000 $65 1999 $60 1995 $50 1994 $750 2000 $110 2001 $130 2000 $65  2001 $100 2002 $120  2001 $80 1996 $45 Cyril Henschke Majella 2002 $145 2003 $110  2002 $90  1997 $60 The Malleea Shiraz 2003 $110 2004 $120  2003 $70  1998 $40 1990 $95 2004 $120  2005 $120 2004 $80 1991 $85 Cabernet 2005 $80 2006 $100 2005 $65 1999 $45 1992 $85 Armagh Shiraz 1996 $70  2007 $90 2007 $150  2000 $35 1990 $220 1997 $48 2001 $45  1993 $80 1991 $180 1998 $95 2002 $55 1994 $85 1992 $120 1999 $50 1995 $70 1993 $110 2000 $42 2003 $45 1996 $150  1994 $130 2001 $70 2004 $45 1995 $130 2002 $70 2005 $50 1997 $70 1996 $160 2003 $65 2008 $120 1998 $140  1997 $150 2004 $55 GIACONDA 2006 $40 1998 $220 2005 $60Best’s Thomson Chardonnay 2007 $40 1999 $75 1999 $130 Family Shiraz 2000 $80 2000 $1201992 $85 1990 $100 2008 $40 2001 $130 2009 $40 2001 $80 2002 $2001993 Not Released 1991 $75 2002 $100 2004 $145 1992 $851994 $70 1993 $90 2003 $651995 $1001996 $95 1994 $100 2004 $1001997 $75 Cabernet Merlot 1995 $85 2005 $801998 $100 1990 $95 1996 $130 2005 $751999 Not Released 1991 $100 1997 $90 2000 Not Released 1992 $80 1998 $125  Eileen Hardy Mount Edelstone KAY BROS MOSS WOOD2001 $90 1993 $85 1999 $110  Shiraz 1990 $120 Block 6 Old Vine Cab Sauv2004 $90  1994 $90 2000 $110 1991 $90 1995 $95 2001 $100 1990 $100 1992 $90 Shiraz 1990 $130 BINDI 1996 $100 2002 $140 1991 $55 1993 $80 1990 $95 1991 $120Block 5 Pinot Noir 1997 $90 2004 $190 1992 $55 1994 $80 1991 $60  1992 $1201997 $80 1998 $95 2005 $140 1993 $60 1995 $80 1992 $75 1993 $901998 $95 1999 $95 2006 $120 1994 $75 1996 $100 1993 $50 1994 $130 2000 $85 1995 $70 1997 $70 1994 $60 1995 $1701999 Not Released 2001 $80 1996 $95  1998 $95 1995 $50 1996 $1502000 $160 2002 Not Released 1997 $50 1999 $75 1996 $65 1997 $902001 $95 1998 $100  2000 $65 1997 $50 1998 $1502002 $110 2003 $75 1999 $70  2001 $85 1998 $80 1999 $140 2004 $70 2000 $55 2002 $130 1999 $65 2000 $1202003 $85 2001 $75 2003 $80 2000 $65 2001 $1202004 $140 2002 $55 2004 $85 2001 $65 2002 $902005 $120  D’ARENBERG Meshach 2003 $55 2005 $80 2002 $85  2003 $952006 $110  The Dead Arm 1990 $110 2004 $65 2003 $65 2004 $852007 $110 1991 $85 2004 $65 2005 $85 Shiraz 1992 $80  2006 $80 2005 $50 2006 $65 1994 $120 2006 $65  1995 $80  1993 $65 KATNOOK ESTATE MOUNT MARYBROKENWOOD 1996 $75 1994 $90  Keyneton Estate Odyssey Cab Sauv QuintetGraveyard Shiraz 1997 $60 1995 $85 1990 $55  1991 $901990 $90 1998 $85  1996 $100 1991 $45 1992 $75 1990 $2601991 $100 1992 $45 1993 Not Released 1991 $110 1999 $65 1997 Not Released Hill of Grace 1993 $45 1994 $75 1992 $1101992 Not Released 2000 $65  1998 $130 1980 $250 1994 $36 1995 Not Released 1993 $1301993 $75 2001 $70  1999 $85 1981 $230 1995 $34 1996 $95 1994 $1201994 $80 1982 $240 1996 $60  1997 $65 1995 $1001995 $70 2002 $65 2000 $70 1983 $240 1997 $40  1996 $160 2001 $85 1984 $210 1998 $60 1997 $1101996 $95 2003 $65 2002 $95  1985 $250 1999 $36 2004 $60 1986 $3501997 $75 2005 $48 2003 $751998 $110 2006 $55 2004 $7590 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.1998 $180  1990 $2,000 1996 $150  2001 $45  1991 $65  1994 $95 1999 $501999 $1202000 $160 1991 $1,100 1997 $65 2002 $40  1993 $55 1995 $80 2000 $652001 $120 1992 $1,000 1998 $95 2004 $45 1994 $65 1996 $75 2001 $1202002 $140 1993 $1,000 1999 $70 2005 $45 1997 $65 2002 $652003 $140 1994 $800 2000 $60 2006 $45 THREE RIVERS/ 1998 $110 2003 $602004 $140 1995 $800 2001 $60 Chris Ringland 1999 $75  2004 $852005 $160 1996 $1,000 2002 $80 Wines Shiraz 2000 $702006 $150 1997 $800 2003 $60 1990 $900 2001 $70 Moet et Chandon 1998 $1,200 2004 $75 1991 $700 2002 $120 Cuvee Dom 1999 $890  2005 $65 1992 $650 2003 $60 Perignon 2000 $1,100 Stonewell Shiraz 1993 $750 2004 $70 1973 $360 2001 $1,100 Magill Estate 1990 $90 1994 $600 2004 $70 1975 $400 2002 $1,500 1990 $70 1991 $70 1995 $500 1976 $300  2003 $900 1991 $70 1992 $60 1996 $1,200 1978 $290 2004 $1,100  1992 $55 1993 $65 1997 Not Released 1980 $220 Bin 95 Grange 1993 $50 1994 $65 1998 $900  1982 $450 1951 $43,000 1994 $60 1995 $60 1999 $600  1983 $1801952 $17,000 1995 $45 1996 $95 2000 $450 John Riddoch 1985 $3001953 $13,000 1997 $65 Cab Sauv1954 $10,000  1996 $70 1998 $75 2001 $850 1990 $70 1988 $2601955 $3,600 1997 $60  1999 $75  2002 $850 1990 $6001956 $14,000 1998 $85 2000 $70 2003 $500 1991 $75 1992 $240 1957 $11,000 Bin 707 1999 $65  2001 $65 1992 $601958 $4,800 1980 $130  2000 $55  2002 $70 1993 $55 1993 $2201959 $2,000 1981 Not Released 2001 $55 2004 $85 TORBRECK 1995 $2201960 $1,400 1982 $140  2002 $70 1994 $70 1996 $3001961 $1,200 1983 $130 2003 $70 Run Rig Shiraz 1995 Not Released 1998 $2601962 $1,100 1984 $95 2004 $65 1995 $250 1996 $75  1999 $2301963 $1,000 1985 $120 2005 $60 1996 $350 1997 $50 2000 $2501964 $700 1986 $160 2006 $75 1997 $240 1998 $801965 $550 1987 $140  1998 $350 1999 $52 FORTIFIEDS1966 $600 1999 $200 2003 $501967 $700 1988 $150  Bin 389 Basket Press 2000 Not Released 2004 $551968 $550 1989 $140  1990 $100 2001 $190 2005 $751969 $550 1990 $170 1991 $80 Shiraz 2002 $220 2006 $601970 $360 1990 $150 2003 $200 Para Liqueur1971 $700 1991 $140 1992 $50 1991 $140 2004 $200 1878 $1,600 1972 $350 1992 $140  1993 $55 2005 $200 Michael Shiraz 1879 $1,2001973 $360 1993 $130 1994 $65 1992 $95 2006 $150  1955 $1,600 1880 $8001974 $380 1994 $150  1993 $75 1990 $100 1881 $8001975 $400 1887 $8001976 $650 1995 $50 1994 $90 1893 $1,0001977 $400 1995 Not Released 1996 $85 1991 $65 1899 $1,0001978 $400 1996 $200 1995 $75 1992 Not Released 1908 $5501979 $380 1997 $45 1996 $140 1910 $5001980 $350 1997 $150 1998 $80 1993 $65  1922 $500 1981 $350 1998 $200 1997 $95  1925 $8001982 $350 1999 $50 1998 $190 1994 $65 1927 $4801983 $360 1999 $130 1999 $95 1995 Not Released 1930 $240 1984 $350 2000 $55  Shiraz 1996 $70  1933 $200 1985 $350 2000 Not Released 2001 $50 1990 $145 1997 $55 1939 $1501986 $550 2001 $120 2002 $60 2000 $80 1991 $130 1998 $65 1944 $901987 $320 2001 $85 1992 $80 1999 $45 1947 $801988 $350 2002 $160 2003 $50 2002 $140  1993 $90 2003 $50 1951 $3001989 $350 2003 Not Released 2004 $48 1994 $160 2004 $601990 $580 2004 $150 2005 $50 2003 $100 1995 $90  2005 $651991 $420 1996 $1601992 $350 2005 $140 2006 $45  222000000465 $951993 $350 2006 $150 $951994 $350 $95 1995 $320 RWT1996 $480 Bin 707 Magnum 1997 $95 2007 $100 1997 $901997 $340 1980 $190 1998 $140 1998 $1601998 $540 1981 Not Released 1999 $100 1999 $1001999 $410 1982 $210 2000 $90 2000 $90 2000 $420 1983 $260 2001 $85 2001 $95 The Octavius Shiraz2001 $400 1984 $190 2002 $120 2002 $150 1990 $752002 $450 2003 $80 1991 Not Released2003 $380 1985 $230 2003 $110 2004 $150 1992 $602004 $520 1986 $340 2004 $110 Old Block Shiraz 2005 $130  1993 $45 Grandfather Port 1987 $190 2005 $90 1990 $85 2006 $110 1994 $70 1940 $240 1988 $180 2006 $110 1991 $50 1995 $65 1945 $220 1989 $175 1992 $40  1990 $360 Block 42 1993 $40 WILD DUCK CREEK 1996 $90 1991 $240 Cab Sauv 1994 $45 ‘Duck Muck’ 1997 $60 1992 $165 1996 $420 1995 $45 Shiraz 1993 $200 2004 $600  1996 $70  1994 $400 1998 $100 1994 $350 1997 $40 1995 $400 1999 $60 1995 Not Released 1998 $65 1996 Not Released 2000 $60 1996 $380 1999 $60  1997 $490 2001 $85 Vintage Port 1997 $225 2000 $40 1998 Not Released 2002 $100 1998 $320 2001 $40 1999 Not Released 2003 $75 1956 $120 1999 $190 2002 $80 2000 $350 2004 $75 1958 $140 2000 Not Released 2003 $50 2001 $340 1964 $110Bin 95 Grange 2001 $250 Coonawarra 2004 $50 2002 $360 1965 $110 Magnum 2002 $235 Red Blend 2005 $50 2004 $320 1966 $100 2004 $300 2006 $70 2007 $260 1967 $651979 $1,800  2005 $320 1990 $65 Dry Red No. 1 1968 $651980 $900 1991 $55 1990 $150 1969 $50 1981 $1,000 1992 $40 1971 $601982 $950 1972 $551983 $1,0001984 $880 1993 $35 SEPPELT 1991 $75 1985 $900 St. Henri 1994 $40 Show Sparkling 1992 $601986 $2,000 1995 $35 1993 $551987 $900 1990 $170 1996 $55 Shiraz Black Label 1994 $701988 $800 1991 $95 1997 $45 1984 $65 1990 $100 1995 $551989 $850 1992 $70 1998 $75 1985 $90 1991 $110 1996 $65 1993 $70 1999 $45 1986 $75 1992 $70 1997 $75 1994 $65 2000 $45 1987 $70 1993 $80 1998 $80 1995 $65 1990 $70 September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 91

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts prices steady and well within the published guides. While buyers still prefer both ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS premiums to be presented in near perfect August 3 - Fine & Rare Auction (MAY REPORT) condition, along with the original packaging (entries close July 9) Despite global meltdowns, increasing intact, the May sale also recorded the October 12 interest rates and a glut of cheap wine in the highest clearance rate for imperfect Grange (entries close September 17) domestic market, demand for high-quality since August 2008, when the rate was just Australian and European wines through the under 80 per cent. LANGTON’S WINE Australian wine auction market remains AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE strong. Stand-out performers at Oddbins’ Vintage champagne added some ‘fizz’ to August 24 - September 7 May sale included the Henschke and the May sale, dominating the Top 10 list of (Melbourne) Penfolds premiums, Petaluma Coonawarra imported performers, based on hammer September 7-21 (Sydney) Red Blend and Rockford Basket Press along price. At the top was a rare 1971 Salon Le September 21-October 5 with their specialty Home Block Cabernet - Mesnil Brut Cuvee Vintage Champagne (Melbourne) as well as Wendouree shiraz and the shiraz with a hammer price of $620, followed by September 28 - October 12 blends. Of the imported offerings, well- a magnum of 1983 Moet et Chandon Dom (Classification Auction) priced Bordeaux, Chateauneuf du Pape, Perignon at $592 and a ’90 Dom at $550. October 5 - 19 (Sydney) Loire Valley whites (especially the off-dry This Top 10 also included a bottle of 1997 October 19 - November 3 and sweeter styles) and New Zealand pinot Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1er Cru Pauillac, (Melbourne) noirs and sauvignon blancs also cleared which fetched $390, a 2001 Conterno exceptional well. Fantino Barolo Sori Ginestra ($198), the STERLING WINE legendary 2003 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE Penfolds Grange again dominated ($188) and a 1915 Sandeman Madeira August 27 - September 8 Oddbins’ Top 10 list of Australian auction ($530). (consignment deadline August 23) performers, based on hammer price. October 1-13 Topping the table was a magnum of 1982 Oddbins’ New Zealand section has grown (consignment deadline September 27) Penfolds Bin 95 Grange which fetched enough in size across recent auctions to $700. Henschke Hill of Grace made the warrant its own Top 10 performers list, GRAYSONLINE mix with two strong vintages (’91 at based on hammer price. Felton Road took Daily wine auctions (featuring a $340 and ’86 at $320), as did the superb out the top three spots with its 2008 and range of red and white wines and single-vineyard wine, 1996 Penfolds Block ’07 Central Otago Pinot Noir and the 2008 regional and country-specific sales) 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon, which Block 1 Central Otago Riesling. Others in fetched $370. Overall clearances of Grange the list included Craggy Range, Neudorf and (All dates are subject to change, and Hill of Grace were strong, with hammer Catalina Sounds. without notice) The interest shown in southern Rhone Valley blends at Oddbins’ May sale has prompted auctioneer/valuer Graham Wright to share his thoughts on the 2007 vintage, which has hit retail stores. “It is, in my humble estimation, one of the most exciting vintages I have tasted for quite some time,” says Graham. “Even the base Cote du Rhones have a charm and excitement not often seen in this category - and you know it’s a special vintage when they taste so good, even when they are young. Moving up the chain, the premiums are purely majestic.” For further information visit www. oddbins.com.au. LANGTONS FINE WINE AUCTIONS (PENFOLDS MARKET REPORT - ANDREW CAILLARD MW) Penfolds is a stalwart of the Australian secondary wine market and, although Grange leads the way, Penfolds wines in their entirety account for a major percentage of auction value - somewhere92 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

wine investment & collecting ON THE SPOT CASH FOR YOURbetween 15 and 20 per cent, depending with gains of around 33 per cent, while OLD BARRELS!on the frequency and volume of stock sold 1980 moved up by around 6 per cent andin a single year. Grange is regarded as the 1990 has remained fairly static. Regular pickups inquintessential investment wine, however SA, Victoria, NSW wine regions.its performance has been modest over the Momentum in the Grange market is Call Paul today on 0428 578 327past six months. Although there is more confined to the 1980s, 1990s and 2000s.certainty in this market compared to many The ’81 has probably been the best Auctionother asset classes, the price evolution of performer over the past six months, withGrange is erratic. a 20 per cent increase in market value. The Cash ’83 has enjoyed the same evolution over 18 NOW! The auction market for Grange falls into months, while the ’86, the finest vintage oftwo categories - rare and contemporary the decade, is struggling to move across In a Hurry?vintages. Rare Grange comprises, 1951, the $500 hammer price threshold. The ’87’52 (the first commercial release), ’53, has moved up by around 10 per cent, while The Wine Auction Process will get’54, ’56, ’57, ’58 and ’59. The so-called the ’90 has increased by around 8-10 per you better returns, but it could take“hidden Granges” (’57, ’58 and ’59) are cent. The ’91 is swinging a touch, but prices months to sell every last bottle.considered extremely rare. Certainly the are now hovering around $500 – and its’57 and ’58 are difficult to find, however the potential price evolution is entirely related Consider a quick cash deal?’59 was commercialised. For many years it to the future demand of the lionised 1990.was a fairly regular feature at auction, but The ’92 has increased by 5 per cent over Sterling has a monthly “Live on Line”stock has now dwindled significantly. The the past six months but ’93, ’94 and ’95 Wine Auction that taps hugesuccess of the 1955 on the Australian wine have remained static. Although there is International demand for premiumshow circuit established a ‘cult’ reputation a significant long-term upward trend, the back vintages. Find out how Sterlingfor Grange during the late ’50s and early ’96 hasn’t moved much in recent months, works harder and smarter to produce’60s and this wine is still standing up while ’99 is on the ascendancy. The 2000 the best results for you.extremely well. Grange has enjoyed an anniversary year, but prices have been sluggish. While the FREE Auction Catalogues Although the ’53 is regarded as the ’01 has increased by around 5-10 per cent FREE Bidder Registrationgreatest Grange of the 1950s, I believe the and ’02 and ’04 are also sluggish.’55 is more deserving. Tasted only recently, Phone Lynton 08 9388 9955it still has the buoyancy and ethereal quality Penfolds St Henri has enjoyed renewed or 0418 949 837,of its youth. With the exception of the ’59, interest among collectors over the pastits value is significantly less than other year. A rare 1957 made $8159 in September or www.sterlingwine.com.auGranges of the ’50s. Although prices have 2009 - a record price which dragged valuesmoved up markedly over the past few years, up by around 15 per cent across most STERLINGit hasn’t attracted the escalating extremes vintages. Although prices are significantly Wine Auctions & Exchangeof other rarities, as there is a feeling that less than Grange, they have remainedmore than a few bottles exist. Prices have relatively buoyant.hovered around $3500 (including buyer’spremium). This probably represents the Bin 707 prices have escalated overmost affordable of Grange collectibles and a two-year period. Averaging aroundhas a good chance of enjoying strong future $160 (hammer price) in June 2008, aprice evolution. ’76 recently achieved a hammer price of $252. While 1986 remains static, 1990 Granges from the 1960s are beginning has enjoyed a similar evolution and theto dwindle and prices are erratic. The ’60 ’02 and ’04 have enjoyed strong collectorand ’62 haven’t moved in any meaningful interest in recent months.way for two years, yet the ’61 has doubledin value. Both ’68 and ’69 are considered Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz is an auctionas past their prime, the ‘investment favourite, with values generally around theopportunity’ only related to those few $40-60 mark, and offer excellent value forbuyers looking at putting sets together or money. While its cellaring track record isfor anniversaries. It will be another eight excellent, it’s doubtful whether this wineor nine years before prices spike back up. has huge investment potential. That said,Granges from the 1970s are also getting the 1986 Bin 389 has doubled in valuescarce. The famous ’71 is still drinking well, in two years. The gorgeous 1996 hasn’talthough prices have remained stagnant really moved at all. It offers great valuefor some time, while the ’76 has enjoyed and cellaring potential and is definitely onemodest price evolution over the past two of my picks. Penfolds RWT has enjoyedyears. The 1970 has spiked up this year around 8-10 per cent price evolution over the past year, with 2002 the best performer. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 93

wine investment & collecting The special bins are hugely admired by with gems which can be quite young and 30 years ago, with prices rivalling Grangecollectors. The 2004 Bin 60A has increased rarely seen on the chopping block. Prices and well above Henschke Hill of Grace.in value by around 40 per cent over two are strong, demand is hard but the shift to Stonyfell Metala is another case in point -years, while the more famous ’62 still quality is driven by punters looking to drink and there are others. Look at the bottles inhovers around $3300. This wine is always better and less. good condition, with a particular focus oncited as one of Australia’s greatest wines the strong vintages like 1976, ‘82, ’86 andof all time, and price rises are very likely There are some serious bargains to ’90. The secret is to look for wine brandsover the 10 ten years as stocks further be had at auction for the studious and from big producers no longer in productiondeplete. The ’96 and ’04 Block 42 Cabernet curious, and Sterling managing director - Lindemans, Hardy, Seppelt and to a lesserSauvignon are also enjoying solid auction Lynton Barber shares his tips on where to degree, Penfolds-produced wine brandsresults, with around 10-20 per cent value go hunting. “There’s lots of queer foreign that are no more. Some were special limitedincrease over the past two years. stuff appearing in catalogues that have releases, some just stopped.” huge Parker points, monster retail tags Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz and Bin 28 and too sexy for their own good,” he says. Auction prices for Penfolds GrangeKalimna Shiraz have enjoyed an enduring “Do the Google and snap up bargains from remain very strong, bordering on recordpresence on the auction market. They are Spain, Greece and Portugal. Same theme levels for many back vintages. “Looksnot really investment wines, although they but more mainstream are the big-ticket, like the poor value of the current releasehold their value and develop beautifully with lesser lights from France and Italy. Great (2005) is a driver for many seriousage. For a more comprehensive Penfolds bargains can also be sourced from Rhone, collectors who are seeing back vintagesreport, visit www.langtons.com.au. Burgundy and Bordeaux; again, do the as a bargain,” says Lynton. “So-called research and look at the real value. That poor vintages like the ’93, ’95 and ’97 areSTERLING WINE $100 bottle of 3rd Growth Bordeaux from selling at auction between $300 and $350AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE a strong back vintage might be retailing as - close to half the price of the full 2005(JUNE REPORT) a current vintage for $300.” release recommended retail - while superThe current wine industry crisis has vintages like the ’96, ’98 and 2004 arecombined with persistently high Australian The other area favoured by Lynton for fetching between $400 and 500. They’redollar exchange rates and two retail fossicking at auction is among some of much better wines than the 2005 - readygiants intent on Main Street bare-knuckle Australia’s prominent wine names from to drink and still change in the pocket. Thecontests, creating the perfect storm. Retail the past. “Simple formula - look at the big 1990 Grange - voted the best wine in theprices are as low as ever and the addicted Australian wine names from the past that world - sells at auction for around $550,wine collector is busy creating room to are eating corporate humble pie, having about the same as the current release.house all the purchases which are just been taken over by a conglomerate,” says As for the peerless 1976, $500-600 willtoo good and too cheap to miss out on. Lynton. “It’s easy to forget that Redmans buy you a bottle of this Robert ParkerAuction catalogues are huge and stacked Cabernet Sauvignon, now sitting at retail in 100-point miracle wine.” the mid-teens, was the toast of the industry Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What94 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

On a separate matter, Lynton poses the bargains generating considerable interest The demand for Australia’s old favouritesquestion, what should be done with old and customer engagement. has never been hotter. Wynns Michaelwhites? “The sad facts of life are that and John Riddoch, plus Penfolds Stsuper-tweaked chardonnays can oxidise May and June star performers shone in the Henri, Bin 707, Bin 389 and Magill wereprematurely and be very disappointing,” French-focused Bastille Day auction, where all keenly sought, alongside collectablessays Lynton. “Colour is the key. Not all all wines were transported in refrigerated like Brokenwood Graveyard and Lake’s15-to-20-year-old chardonnays are past containers from their provenance. This saw Folly cabernets - with some selling atit. Some are stunning and wonderful – the clearance of 34 bottles from Chateau record prices. Magnums have also beenalthough, sadly, time and tide is hard d’Yquem Sauternes from 1989, ’90, ’99 and selling well for both white and particularlyon whites under corks. Expect colour ’03 vintages and 2001 Chateau Mouton- red, with a 1998 Leeuwin Art Seriesdevelopment. Less is better but the trick is Rothschild 1er Cru Pauillac, reaching a Chardonnay achieving $309 and a ’98to look for brown - which is not easy when high of $699. A respectable hammer price Penfolds Bin 707 going to a lucky bidder forlooking through coloured glass. Sterling of $354 for a 1996 Chateau Palmer 3me $539. Many wines are not just selling forworks hard at identifying all whites which Cru Margaux met expectations, but the investment. Various well-cellared wines,are tinged with brown. If it’s hard to pick, highlight was an impressive 15-litre bottle perfect for immediate consumption,we will catalogue it as ‘dark colour’. This is of Veuve Clicquot NV closing at $1270. are also running out and exceedingnot a death sentence - but a serious warning GraysOnline is excited about the increased expectations - like a dozen 2002 St Hallettthat the odds are against this bottle drinking private sale activity and great assortment Faith Shiraz selling at $643.fresh and clean. Occasionally we will of product and price, and expect to see ancatalogue a white as ‘doubtful condition’. upward trend continue in supply of good- At a secondary sale of ex-heritageThis is high-risk stuff, likely clearly brown provenance product. investment wines - including The Poem,through the glass.” Glaetzer and Balnaves - purchasers were For Australia’s iconic wines, GraysOnline treated to bargains, with all lots realising For more information visit www. crafted bigger-volume sales packed with reasonable prices. In the latest private winesterlingwine.com.au. plenty of old favourites. Penfolds Grange collection auction, some thrilling hammer in 750ml bottles proved a consistent prices were recorded, including $752 forGRAYSONLINE seller as an investment drop, mixed a six-litre bottle of 1983 Redman Cabernet(MAY/JUNE REPORT) in with an exciting array of vintages, Sauvignon, $470 for a 12-bottle case ofGraysOnline achieved phenomenal growth magnums and cases averaging $1043 2006 Moss Wood Chardonnay and $243in private cellar sales across the first half per lot. A 1999 Henschke Cyril was for a single 750ml bottle of 1998 Barons deof 2010, with a solid increase of nearly snapped up by one enthusiastic bidder Rothschild ‘Legende R’ Pauillac, Bordeaux.50 per cent month on month. Featured for a record $148. Quality is paramount,twice a month, these private cellar sales and GraysOnline keeps all wines in a For more information, visit www.graysonline.are filled with icons, rare vintages and temperature-controlled facility onsite to com or email [email protected]. maintain pristine condition. *All prices listed include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 95

780 TASTED530 AWARDEDWORLD’S GREATESTSHIRAZ CHALLENGE VThis was a superb, if demanding, tasting for our six judging Yellow Tail by SHIRAZ/SYRAHpanels who waded through flight after flight of challenging wines. Casella Wines Shiraz & BLENDSWith shiraz (or syrah) flavour, intensity is usually not a problem, 2009 HHH $10 - $15so balance of acid and tannins, along with fruit vibrancy, become Vibrant, jammy fruitthe key factors. Here we present their results across various aromas and reasonably 50 TASTEDprice categories. There is a lot to like here, regardless of your oaky palate with sweet 28 AWARDEDprice capabilities. berry flavours. $9.99 “Overall there is a lotSHIRAZ/SYRAH Quarisa Shot in the to choose from at this& BLENDS Dark Shiraz Petite price,” said one judge.UNDER $10 Sirah 2008 HHH1/2 “And during a promotion Big wine with intense, some of these wines10 TASTED jammy varietal fruit, can end up under $10,” said our wine retailer6 AWARDED judge. In general a few extra dollars do help! grippy tannins and hints of eucalyptus on the long finish. 1-2 $9.99“Some great value De Bortoli Sacredwines,” agreed the Hill Shiraz Cabernetjudges, although the 2008 HHHfruit is somewhat Nose of currants andsimple, as expected at mulberries; hint of oak.this price. The judges Flavours of plums andwere very pleased mushrooms. Greatto see an absence of value. $7.50aggressive ‘pressings’fruit. “Some very nice Quarisa Johnny Qeasy drinkers here,” said South Australiaone judge. Well done. Shiraz 2008 HHHH Deep-red wine with Aldi Stores Cobblers Aldi Stores lovely sweet oak mingling Lane SEA Shiraz St Amber SEA seamlessly with sharp 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHH dark berry fruit characters. Vibrant colour and Nice dry red style with Good palate weight with interesting nuances blackberry and stewed plenty of flavour length. of lavender and white cherries on both nose pepper mingle with fruit and palate. $6.99 3-5 $11.99 on the nose and good weight of confectionery- like fruit on a soft palate. $9.99 Quarisa 30 Mile SEA Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Nice fruit intensity on the nose, with minty hints. Ripe berry and plums on the palate with plenty of assertive tannins. 1-2 $8.9996 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tasting Quarisa Johnny Q McPherson Shiraz SEA Shiraz Viognier 2009 HHH 2008 HHH1/2 Cassis fruit aromas tinged Smells of currants and with spices, and attractive caramels. Nice fruit plum and blueberry and sweet oak flavours flavours. $12.99 with good tannin structure and grippy end. 2-3 $11.99 Rosedale Wines Chook Shed Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Hints of chocolate on the ripe, stewed fruit nose. Oak tending to dominate the palate, with sweet fruit underneath. $12Sylvan Springs Hard Moppity Vineyards Yalumba The Y Series Huma Yarra Valley Cartel PadthawayYards McLaren Vale Lock & Key Single South Australia Shiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHHShiraz 2008 HHHH Vineyard Hilltops Shiraz Viognier Rhubarb-like notes on Nice poise, length andBig, bold shiraz with Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 2008 HHH1/2 the nose, and soft, weight. Has malty oak,hints of aniseed and Lovely bright blackberry Earthy nose opens up to flavoursome, blackberry red cherry and licoricelicorice on the nose and bouquet and excellent strawberry-like aromas. fruit palate with spicy notes. $13developing complexity. weight and length of More strawberries elements. $10 Taylors PromisedIntense, youthful licorice strawberry-like fruit evident on the firm, Yalumba The Land Southfruit flavours with a long, flavours. $14.99 tannic palate. $12.95 Y Series South Australia Shirazlingering finish. $14.99 Yalumba Organic Cool Woods South Australia Shiraz Cabernet 2008 HHHMcPherson South Australia Australia Shiraz 2008 HHH Rich, fruit-driven wineCurious SEA Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 2008 HHH1/2 Simple, ripe berry nose nicely supported by a2009 HHH1/2 Big, rich wine with aromas Hints of cedar and with caramel nuances. backbone of toasty/Intense Ribena nose of licorice allsorts and ripe vanilla on the nose and Youthful, spicy, stewed mocha oak. $13with layers of toasty oak. plums, and intense sweet rich, ripe, sweet fruit plum fruit palate. $12.95 Taylors PromisedOn the palate the oak berry palate with strong flavours with balancing DiGiorgio Family Land Southintegrates seamlessly tannins. $14.99 tannins and a lingering Sterita Limestone Australia Shirazwith berry fruits. $10.99 Yellow Tail by finish. $13.99 Coast Shiraz 2008 HHHThe Wine Society Casella Wines Special Red Knot by 2006 HHH Smells of dark chocolateRegional Premium Selection Reserve Shingleback Some leathery and pencil shavings!Selection McLaren Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz development to the oaky Palate rich with sweet,Vale Shiraz Confectionery fruit 2008 HHH1/2 nose. Oak dominates dark fruit. $132008 HHH1/2 bouquet with hints of Chocolate, aniseed palate but has the fruit Beelgara RascalsSolid, black, ‘porty’-like tomato leaf and spicy and spices on the to carry it. $14.99 Prayer Hilltopswine with hints of characters, which are nose. Good intensity of Region Shirazviolets on the nose and echoed on the smooth mentholly blackcurrant 2008 HHHlicorice nuances on palate. $14.99 flavours and good tannin Big, solid, black, cooler-the firm, tannic palate. structure. $14.95 climate wine with nice Yalumba Galway levels of herbs, spices 3-5 $12.99 Vintage Traditional and pepper. $14.95 Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Spicy plum nose with savoury elements. Dark berry fruits fill the soft palate with flavour; some tarry notes. Very enjoyable. $14.95 DAY 1 - JUDGESSimon Rowe Michael Scarpantoni Jonathan CreekBuying and promotions General manager Senior winemaker ofmanager for Sip ’n and winemaker for operations at Zilzie Winery.Save Cellars. Diploma Scarpantoni Estate Formerly winemaker atof Wine Marketing. Wines for the past Gallo Winery (US) andTwelve years in the 26 years. Wine show Coldstream Hills, Nepentheretail liquor industry, judge at the Australian & Brokenwood wineries.including managing amateur wine show. Associate judge at the InlandParade Cellars in SA. Wine Show in Swan Hill. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 97

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E VEarthworks Buller Beverford Rosedale Wines Wyndham Estate Bin Taylors EightyBarossa Valley Victoria Shiraz Cat Amongst the 515 Shiraz Viognier Acres Clare ValleyShiraz 2008 HHH 2007 HHH Pigeons Fat Cat 2006 HHH1/2 Shiraz ViognierStrawberry conserve Delightful perfumed/ Barossa Valley Blackcurrant nose with 2008 HHH1/2nose with a dash lavender bouquet, and Shiraz Cabernet a thread of lime. Soft, Mocha nose with a touchof pepper, and nice a tannic/dark berry fruit 2008 HHH1/2 supple, simple fruit of violets, and a youthfulconcentration of varietal palate. $13 “Young and bold.” Lots palate. Starting to develop tarry/licorice/coffeeflavours. $14.99 Warrenmang Bazzani of ripe blackcurrant/ savoury notes. $15.99 palate. Just needs a littleRymill The Yearling Pyrenees Shiraz plum fruit and chocolaty Brothers in Arms more time. $15Coonawarra Shiraz Cabernet 2007 HHH oak with aniseed-like No 6 Langhorne Jip Jip Rocks2009 HHH Big, full-bodied wine complexity. Good Creek Shiraz Padthaway ShirazSimple, solid, with plenty of oak and tannins. $17 Cabernet Cabernet 2009 HHHcommercial style with good intensity of ripe Bimbadgen Ridge 2005 HHH1/2 Slightly herbal red fruitplenty of oak and blackcurrant fruit. $13 Shiraz Cabernet Rich, aged and porty. nose. Oak-derived vanillaattractive varietal fruit Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Nice mushroom-like and chocolate notes onunderneath. $13 SHIRAZ/SYRAH Delicate fragrances of lift to the nose, and a the fruity palate. $16.95The Growers Purple BLENDS violets and spices. Palate balanced, grippy, dark Water Wheel MemsieRidge Western $15 - $20 a nice mix of spices berry palate. $19 Homestead BendigoAustralia Shiraz that complement the Shiraz Malbec2009 HHH 22 TASTED blackcurrant fruit. $15 Cabernet SauvignonMinty edge to the dark 13 AWARDED 2008 HHHberry nose, and smooth, The panel commented Interesting intensitybalanced, berry jam that some of the older of Bonox and aniseedpalate. $14.95 wines were falling away. aromas. Bold fruit palateMoppity Vineyards “You have to pick and has savoury tannins. $15Lock & Key Single choose more with the Longview RedVineyard Hilltops older vintages,” said Bucket AdelaideShiraz 2008 HHH one judge. “Not a lot of Hills ShirazNice earthy/leathery difference between this Cabernet 2008 HHHcharacters developing on price bracket and the Smells of sourthe nose. Straightforward previous one,” noted cherries and darksweet fruit palate. $14.99 another judge. chocolate. PowerfulQuarisa Treasures licorice/blackberryLanghorne Creek Barking Owl flavours. $15.50Shiraz 2006 HHH Western Australia Wyndham EstateSpicy, black fruit Shiraz Viognier Bin 525 Shirazbouquet and ripe 2008 HHHH Grenache 2008 HHHfruit flavours layered Full-bodied wine with a Clean eucalyptus/with dark chocolaty spicy/peppery bouquet blackcurrant nose withcharacters. $14.99 and intense varietal fruit flavours of rhubarb palate with balancing and cherries. Warming tannins and long, lingering finish. $15.99 aftertaste. $17.95 Rosedale Wines Cat Amongst the Pigeons Alley Cat Barossa Valley Shiraz Grenache 2008 HHH Soft, well-balanced wine. Minty nose and rich, intense fruit palate with drying tannins. $17 Haan Barossa Valley Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH Ripe, tannic wine with nuances of cloves on the nose and intense, raisined flavours. $19.95 Neil Hahn Yanyarrie Barossa Valley Shiraz Cabernet 2007 HHH Fat, porty style with earthy/mushroomy characters and velvety tannins. $17.9598 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

varietal tastingSHIRAZ/SYRAH Trinity Hill SHIRAZ/SYRAH2009 Hawkes Bay Syrah 2008$15 - $20 2009 HHH1/2 $15 - $20 Blackcurrant bouquet16 TASTED with a hint of rose petals. 55 TASTED Good berry fruit and spicy12 AWARDED flavour combination. Has 41 AWARDED complexity. $19More consistency Fermoy Estate Overall a very strongshowing up in this Geographe class, with moregroup, with nice fruit Vineyards Shiraz intensity of flavourfrom a good vintage. 2009 HHH creeping in. “The tannin Big, honest wine. Smells structure is adding to Beach Head Shiraz of Black Forest cake and the juiciness of these Kilikanoon 2009 HHH1/2 tastes of ripe berries and wines,” said one judge. Killerman’s Run Combination of rhubarb vanilla. $16 “Most are justifiably in South Australia and wild berry aromas Jip Jip Rocks this price bracket.” Shiraz 2008 HHHH with lots of berry and Padthaway Shiraz Powerful, ripe fruit; plum flavours. Youthful, 2009 HHH Buller Black Dog traces of licorice and with lots of character. $16 Dry, assertive style with Creek King Valley tar showing through lots of plum fruit and black Shiraz 2008 HHHH and supported by ripe Jarrah Ridge Winery peppercorn notes. $16.95 Spicy blackcurrant tannins. Spices and Milly Milly Shiraz The Black Chook nose with some pencil eucalyptus lift off the 2009 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale shavings-like oak. Good nose. Good palate Licorice and tar on Langhorne Creek length of complex, length. 3-5 $18 the nose; plums and Shiraz 2009 HHH balanced, fruit/oak dark cherries on the Licorice and red berries flavours with a warming Angove Family palate, with good on the nose. Some alcohol finish. $15 WinemakersEden Road Meeting balance of fleshy pleasant berry fruit Vineyard SelectPlace Canberra flavours with smoky McLaren Vale ShirazShiraz 2009 HHHH tannins. 3-5 $18 overtones. $17 2008 HHHH Argyle Wines Nose starting to showRich Ribena bouquet Heathcote Winery Heathcote Shiraz lovely tarry tertiaryand ripe plum and Cravens Place 2009 HHH development. Boldblackberry flavours Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Smoky/spicy elements berry flavours balancedmingling with chocolaty, Ripe, almost porty, on the nose, followed by by good backbone ofoak-derived characters. style; nice licorice a tight, inky palate with tannins with quite a hotGood fruit weight and characters. Good tannin just a hint of mint. $18 finish. $19.70length. 3-5 $15 structure with a hint Chateau Tanunda of leathery complexity. Barossa TowerHungerford Hill Shiraz 2009 HHHFishcage Southern 3-5 $18.50 Sweet and simple withNew South Wales some nice spicy varietalShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 fruit flavours supportedFull-bodied wine with by ripe tannins. $18abundant rich berry Rolling Centralfruit flavours perfectly Ranges Shirazbalanced by the oak and 2009 HHHtannins. $17.99 Flavoursome fruit driven wine with a lovely chocolaty finish. “Offers real value for money.” $18 Geoff Cowey Alex McKenzie DAY 2 - JUDGES Oeonlogist with the Winemaker for Annie’s Australian Wine Research Lane part of the Fosters Nick Haselgrove Institute (AWRI). He has Estate Group. Has Winemaker for Blackbilly wide vintage experience vintaged in Piedmont Wines and Tinlins including Barossa, Sunraysia, and Chianti (Italy) and wines in McLaren Vale. Great Western, Coonawarra, Hermitage (France). Has Former chief winemaker Tasmania, plus Burgundy, judged at the Victorian at Haselgrove Wines. Priorat, Penedes and wine show and as an A ‘flying winemaker’ Martinborough. Associate associate at the Clare from 1993-95. Judge judge at Adelaide Hills and Valley wine show. at Hobart for 3 years New England wine shows. and associate judge at Adelaide in 1996-97. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 99

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T SH IRAZ C HA L L E N G E VK1 by Geoff Parker Brothers Chain of Ponds Thorn-Clarke Wyndham EstateHardy Silver Label Barossa Valley Grave’s Gate Shotfire Barossa Bin 555 ShirazAdelaide Hills Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHHH Adelaide Hills Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH1/22008 HHHH Developing, leathery 2008 HHHH Nice toasty oak aromas Plenty of ripe varietal fruit;Youthful, purple wine aromas and an intense Smells of licorice and with Cherry Ripe- intense and flavoursomewith fruit-driven nose varietal fruit palate. Still blueberries with a lovely like characters. Big, and balanced by plentyand lovely cherry and a youth, with some minty lift. Intensely flavoursome sweet berry of sweet oak. Big andblackcurrant flavours lovely juicy tannins and flavoured palate has great fruit palate. Nice viscosity. bold. $15.99with some well-handled quite a hot alcoholic structure and good varietal Quite drying on the finish. Wise Sea Urchinoak. Years ahead of it. finish. 3-5 $18.99 fruit with chocolaty notes. Margaret River 3-5 $19.99 Frankland River 5+ $18 3-5 $18 Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2Kirrihill Tullymore Gemtree Vineyards Barossa Valley Patritti Old Gate Squid ink colour,Vineyard Clare Valley Uncut McLaren Vale Estate E Minor McLaren Vale Shire with a ripe and spicyShiraz 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 blackcurrant nose.Extremely intense, Beautiful berry jam nose Shiraz 2008 HHHH Rich, intense, fruity wine Smoky oak and bitteryouthful wine smelling with a perfumed violet Rich aromas reminiscent with some youthful chocolate combine withof fresh licorice and lift. Spicy/minty/licorice of Black Forest cake, licorice and tarry fruit flavours. $18blackberry jam. Licorice- flavours. Good oak use. followed by a well- characters. Plenty of years Sileni Cellarlike flavours blend with Needs more cellaring time structured palate rich left in it yet. 3-5 $16 Collectionberry fruits. Give it time. to settle. 3-5 $19 with varietal fruit and Hawke’s Bay Syrah finishing long and Shaw Vineyard 2008 HHH1/2 5+ $18.99 smooth. $15 Estate Winemakers Cooler-climate shiraz Selection Canberra with more spicy/ District Shiraz herbaceous characters, 2008 HHH1/2 as you’d expect. Good Big, rich, crimson- peppery fruit lift. $17.95 hued wine loaded with lovely varietal fruit and supported by chocolaty/ vanillin-like oak. $15DAY 3 - JUDGES Michael Fragos Peter Simic Chief winemaker at Editor/publisher Winestate Stuart Bourne Chapel Hill winery. Magazine. More than 30 years’ Winery manager and Formerly chief experience in the wine industry. winemaker for Barossa winemaker at Tatachilla Formerly founding publisher of Valley Estate. Has 13 winery. Dual Bushing a US wine magazine, manager years’ winemaking King for McLaren Vale’s of the SA Wine Information experience. Associate best wine of show. Bureau, and wine educator with judge at the Barossa Winestate winemaker Regency College of TAFE in wine shows. Vintages of the Year 2003. SA. Peter is also a regular wine in WA, Victoria and SA. commentator on national radio and television programs.100 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010