Winestate Magazine September October 2010

regional tastingGEWURZTRAMINER Church Road Reserve Boundary Vineyards Tuki Dolbel Estate Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Tuki Road Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2008 HHHH4 TASTED 2008 HHHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Serious, complex style, tightly3 RECOMMENDED Rich, complex bouquet. Full- Generous, ripe and well- structured, with a fleshy bodied and concentrated, with rounded, with mouthfilling palate, mealy, nutty, roundedMission Hawke’s Bay deep stone-fruit flavours, well body and tropical fruit flavours, and long. $29.95Gewurztraminer seasoned with toasty oak. slightly toasty and creamy. Dolbel Estate Hawke’s Bay2010 HHHH Powerful and full of personality, Finely integrated oak, with Chardonnay 2007 HHHHPerfumed, spicy bouquet. with a strong oak influence - excellent texture and depth. Refined, elegant wine,Light and lively, with fresh, but the fruit to carry it. Well Great value. $19.95 maturing gracefully, with adelicate lemon, apple and worth cellaring. $36.95 Church Road Cuve subtle oak influence and fresh,spice flavours, just a sliver Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay citrusy, slightly minerally andof sweetness, and excellent Mission Vineyard Selection 2008 HHHH buttery flavours. $29.95balance and length. Full of Middle Road Hawke’s Bay Classic Hawke’s Bay style, rich Glazebrook Regionalyouthful promise. $18.95 Chardonnay 2009 HHHHH and sweet-fruited, with ripe, Reserve Hawke’s Bay Fleshy and weighty, with lemony, peachy flavours, plenty Chardonnay 2007 HHHHBeach House Hawke’s Bay concentrated citrus and stone- of oak, and substantial body. Crisp, elegant style, maturingGewurztraminer fruit flavours, enriched by hints Complex and creamy, with a well, with fresh, citrusy2009 HHH1/2 of nutty oak and butterscotch. lingering finish. $26.95 flavours and a slightlyFloral and fresh, with good Tank-fermented, with ‘light’ Church Road Hawke’s Bay minerally streak. $27weight and depth of lychee wood handling, but also fat, Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Mission Reserveand peach flavours, leading to leesy and creamy, with some Weighty and dry, with Hawkes Bay Chardonnaya well-spiced, finely balanced flinty, minerally notes. Rated concentrated, ripe, stone-fruit 2008 HHHHfinish. $16.90 highly by all judges. $21.95 flavours and nutty, biscuity Fleshy, rich and creamy Moana Park Vineyard notes adding complexity. Full, style. Fragrant bouquet, withCrossroads Hawke’s Bay Tribute Hawke’s Bay rich and creamy. $26.95 fresh, vibrant fruit flavours, aGewurztraminer 2007 HHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHH1/2 C.J. Pask Declaration subtle oak influence and goodFloral, slightly sweet style Fragrant and full-bodied, with Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay harmony. $25.95with attractive, citrusy, gently ripe flavours of stone-fruit, 2008 HHHH Trinity Hill Gimblettspicy flavours and a softening butterscotch and nuts, good Highly fragrant, with rich, Gravels Hawke’s Bayfinish. $19.99 (A, UK) power through the palate and stone-fruit flavours, slightly Chardonnay 2008 HHHH a rich, rounded finish. Powerful nutty and creamy, and Fleshy and generous, withCHARDONNAY wine, already drinking well. $29.99 excellent complexity. Weighty, rich, ripe, tropical fruit and nut concentrated and long. Enjoyed flavours. Creamy textured, with39 TASTED by all judges. $32 (A, UK) a long finish. $34 (A, UK)30 RECOMMENDED Beach House Hawkes Bay Mission Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2Strong class, in which many Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Youthful, barrel-fermented winewines showed the typical Citrusy, fruit-driven, gently oaked with ripe citrus and stone-fruitregional style of strong, ripe but style with mouthfilling body and flavours, a hint of butterscotchnot overripe grapefruit and stone- a slightly buttery finish. Freshly and a rounded finish. Slightlyfruit characters, balanced acidity scented, with excellent flavour creamy, with some eleganceand a rich, rounded mouthfeel. depth, balance and length. Fine and good length. $23.50 value at $18.95. Black Barn VineyardsGoldridge Estate Premium Hawke’s Bay ChardonnayReserve Hawke’s Bay 2009 HHH1/2Chardonnay 2009 HHHHH Fragrant and smooth, with ripe,Great buy. Complex nose, with citrusy fruit characters to theconcentrated, citrusy, biscuity fore, slightly toasty and butteryflavours, elegant and slightly notes adding complexity,creamy. Fleshy, weighty, and mouthfilling body. Finelyrounded and long. $18.95 (UK) textured, with good length. $28 JUDGESMichael Cooper Michael Ivecivich Phil BrodieWinestate’s New Zealand Chief winemaker Born and bred in Hawke’seditor is the author of the for Delegat’s Wine Bay, Phil graduated ininternationally acclaimed Wine Estate and Oyster Bay commerce and wineAtlas of New Zealand and Wines and a senior science, is a senior winethe annual Michael Cooper’s judge in New Zealand judge, and since 2003Buyer’s Guide to New Zealand competitions. has been winemaker atWines. In the 2004 New Te Mata Estate.Year Honours, Michael wasappointed an Officer of theNew Zealand Order of Meritfor services to wine writing. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 151

H AW K E ’ S B AYCoopers Creek SV The Couper’s Shed Hawke’s Morton Estate White Label PINOT NOIRLimeworks Hawke’s Bay Bay Chardonnay 2009 HHH Hawke’s Bay ViognierChardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Fruit-driven style, full-bodied, with 2009 HHHH 7 TASTEDCitrusy and slightly creamy, plenty of ripe, peachy flavour and Fruit-driven style, very fresh and 3 RECOMMENDEDwith sweet, nutty, American a rounded, dryish finish. Lots of vibrant, with a floral bouquet.oak aromas and some drink-young charm. From Pernod Full-bodied, with peach and Small class with few highlights,freshness, elegance and Ricard NZ. $19.95 apricot flavours showing good confirming that pinot noirrichness. $20 (UK) ripeness, richness and length. generally struggles to excel in theCoopers Creek Swamp Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay Fine value. $18 relative warmth of Hawke’s Bay.Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2009 HHH Yet elevated, relatively cool sitesChardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Fruit-driven style with ripe, Trinity Hill Gimblett can still produce attractive wines.Youthful, with good weight and tropical fruit flavours to the fore Gravels Viognier 2008depth of ripe, citrusy flavours, and a subtle seasoning of nutty HHHH Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bayseasoned with smoky oak, a oak. Not complex, but lively Fleshy, rich and ripe, with a subtle Pinot Noir 2009 HHH1/2creamy texture and a finely and refreshing. $22.99 (UK) oak seasoning. Stylish wine with Ruby-hued and floral, withbalanced, well-rounded finish. concentrated sweet-fruit flavours, plenty of vibrant, plummy,Drink now or cellar. $29 (UK) Mission Jewelstone hints of peaches and apricots, spicy flavour, some savouryCrossroads Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay and a deliciously soft, well- complexity and fresh acidity.Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 2008 HHH rounded finish. $34 (A, UK) Good value at $19. (A, UK)Full-bodied, peachy and slightly Drinking well now, with strong,nutty, with generous, ripe-fruit ripe, tropical fruit flavours, Alpha Domus The Sileni Cellar Selectionflavours, showing some mealy balanced oak and a creamy Wingwalker Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Pinot Noircomplexity, and a creamy-smooth finish. $38 Viognier 2009 HHH 2009 HHHfinish. $19.99 (A, UK, US) Floral, with ripe, stone-fruit Ruby-hued, slightly lean styleSacred Hill Riflemans Morton Estate White Label flavours showing good depth. with decent depth of berry/plumChardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Barrel-fermented but gently flavours, fresh and youthful.Very youthful, full-bodied 2008 HHH oaked, with a smooth, off-dry An enjoyable, drink-youngwine with ripe, citrusy, slightly Crisp and vibrant, with finish. $22.95 (A, UK, US) proposition. $20 (A, UK, US)biscuity flavours. Fresh, crisp mouthfilling body and plenty ofand elegant, with obvious fresh, citrusy flavour, showing Coopers Creek SV Chalk Trinity Hill High Countryageing potential. $53.90 a hint of honey and some Ridge Hawke’s Bay Pinot Noir 2008 HHHSelaks Winemaker’s complexity. Enjoyable now. $18 Viognier 2009 HHH Richly coloured and fleshy,Favourite Hawke’s Bay Mouthfilling, dry and vibrantly with strong plum and slightChardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Ngatarawa Stables fruity. Barrel-fermented style herb flavours and a firmGenerous, barrel-fermented Reserve Hawke’s Bay with good depth of peachy, foundation of tannin. Worthstyle with ripe, stone-fruit Chardonnay 2008 HHH slightly spicy and toasty cellaring. $39 (A, UK)flavours seasoned with nutty Fruit-driven style, with strong, flavours. $24 (UK)oak, and a hint of butterscotch. citrusy flavours to the fore and MERLOT & BLENDSCreamy-textured, with good subtle oak and butterscotch Morton Estate Privateharmony. $20.99 notes adding a touch of Reserve Hawke’s Bay 43 TASTEDSileni The Lodge complexity. $22 Viognier 2009 HHH 30 RECOMMENDEDHawke’s Bay Chardonnay Aromatic, with hints of apricots.2008 HHH1/2 Wild Rock Pania Hawke’s Mouthfilling, with good depth Merlot is by far the mostFull-bodied and concentrated, Bay Chardonnay 2009 HHH of ripe, peachy flavours and a widely planted red wine varietywith peachy, complex flavours Elegant, slightly creamy wine rounded finish. $22 in the Bay - and it’s easy to seeand a dry, finely textured finish. with citrusy fruit flavours and why. Many of the wines wereHowever, two judges found it a fresh acidity. Lingers well. ROSE invitingly fragrant, full-bodiedbit too forward and developed From Craggy Range. $19.95 and complex, although notto rate more highly. $30 (UK) 3 TASTED heavy, in the classic claretVidal Hawke’s Bay VIOGNIER 2 RECOMMENDED style. However, the panel alsoChardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 found a significant number ofFruit-driven style, fermented 8 TASTED Morton Estate Musetta underripe wines, lean and leafy.in a near-even split of tanks 6 RECOMMENDED Rose 2009 HHHand French oak barriques Light red colour. Freshly Thornbury Hawke’s Bay(only 10% new). Medium- Small but strong class, in which aromatic, with vibrant flavours Merlot 2008 HHHHHbodied, with ripe, peach and several wines showed the of red berries and strawberries, A ‘steal’. Youthful, finelypassionfruit-like flavours, fresh, inviting perfume, substantial smooth and lingering. $18 structured Gimblett Gravels red,crisp and lively. $19.99 (UK) body, ripe stone-fruit flavours dark and concentrated, with firm,C.J. Pask Gimblett Road and seductive softness of this Nikau Point Hawke’s Bay ripe plum, blackcurrant, herbHawke’s Bay Chardonnay classic Rhone variety. Rose 2009 HHH and spice flavours, seasoned2008 HHH Bright, light red. Very easy- with quality oak (French andPartly barrel-fermented Church Road Reserve drinking style with fresh red American, 40% new). Ratedstyle, still youthful, with Hawke’s Bay Viognier berry, plum and slight herb highly by all judges. $19.99delicate, citrusy flavours and 2009 HHHH flavours. $16a subtle oak influence. Priced Fleshy and rich, with mouthfillingright. $17 (A, UK) body, an oily texture and concentrated ripe-fruit flavours. Deliciously peachy, creamy and rounded. $36.95152 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

regional tastingCouper’s Shed Glazebrook Sacred Hill Mission Reserve Hawke’sHawke’s Bay Merlot Regional Reserve Brokenstone Hawke’s Bay Bay Merlot 2009 HHH1/2Cabernet 2009 HHHHH Hawke’s Bay Merlot Merlot 2008 HHHH Densely coloured, with highlyDense, purple/black colour. Cabernet 2007 HHHH Intensely varietal, single- concentrated, well-ripenedWeighty, with beautifully ripe, Dark and concentrated, with vineyard Gimblett Gravels red. blackcurrant, cherry andrich plum and spice flavours blackcurrant, plum, herb and Deeply coloured, with strong spice flavours, braced by firmand fine-grained tannins. coffee flavours. Slightly leafy, plum and spice flavours, well- tannins. Youthful wine, withExcellent density, complexity but shows excellent complexity integrated, cedary French oak, cellaring potential. $25.95and harmony. (from Pernod and depth. $27 and ripe, supple tannins. $64.90 Morton Estate White LabelRicard NZ) $22.95 The Mercure 2007 HHH1/2Villa Maria Reserve Goldridge Premium Villa Maria Private Bin Merlot-based blend with deep,Hawke’s Bay Merlot Reserve Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Merlot developed colour. Blackcurrant,2008 HHHHH Merlot 2008 HHHH 2009 HHHH herb and slight nut flavours,Arrestingly dark, dense, Firm, concentrated, deeply Youthful, concentrated red showing good concentration,Gimblett Gravels red with coloured red with vibrant plum with deep, bright colour and and a rounded finish. Ready. $19layered blackcurrant, spice and spice flavours and firm concentrated, well-ripened Sileni Cellarand slight coffee flavours. tannins. Still very fresh and plum and spice flavours. Partly Selection Hawke’s BayHighly concentrated, very lively, with good concentration oak-matured style, fresh and Merlot 2009 HHH1/2ripe style, described by one and length. $18.95 (UK) vibrantly fruity, with some Fruity, soft, elegant red, full-judge as “voluptuous and Moana Park Vineyard savoury notes and a rich, firm coloured, with good depthsexy”. $49.99 (UK) Tribute Hawke’s Bay finish. Best drinking mid-2011 of berryish flavour, a hint ofChurch Road Cuve Merlot Merlot 2008 HHHH on. $18.99 (A, UK) cedary oak, and firm tannins on2007 HHHH1/2 Densely coloured, Gimblett Villa Maria the finish. $20 (A, UK, US)Still youthful, deeply coloured Gravels red with a strong Private Bin Hawke’s Trinity Hill The Trinityred with highly concentrated seasoning of French oak (60% Bay Merlot Cabernet 2006 HHH1/2blackcurrant, plum and spice new), concentrated cassis, Sauvignon 2009 HHHH Mature, merlot-based blend withflavours, showing excellent herb and nut flavours, and a Fragrant, full-coloured blend, full, slightly developed colourripeness and generosity. well-rounded finish. $31.99 partly oak-aged. Strong, and generous cassis and spicePowerful and finely plummy, spicy flavours, flavours. Slightly earthy, with astructured, with good ageing showing good ripeness, hints soft, rounded finish. $19 (A, UK)potential. $26.95 of dark chocolate and coconut, Black Barn Hawke’s Bay and some complexity. Fine Merlot Cabernet Franc value. $18.99 (UK, US) Malbec 2007 HHH Slightly rustic, full-coloured Bell Bird Bay Hawke’s Bay blend, with plenty of Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 blackcurrant and spice Fleshy, deeply coloured red flavour and some toasty oak with strong, plummy, slightly complexity. Ready. $28 herbal flavours and some oak- derived complexity. Bargain- priced. $15.99Villa Maria Cellar Two Gates Gimblett Dolbel Estate Kim Crawford RegionalSelection Hawke’s Gravels Omahu 2007 HHHH Hawke’s Bay Merlot Reserve Hawke’s BayBay Merlot Cabernet Merlot-based blend, Cabernet 2007 HHH1/2 Merlot 2009 HHHSauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2 certified organic. Deep Deeply coloured, 2:1 blend Full-coloured and vibrantlyDark, with blackcurrant, plum and bright in colour, with a with concentrated cherry and fruity. Medium-bodied styleand slight herb flavours, vibrant concentrated palate showing plum flavours. Some savoury with good depth of fresh plumand concentrated. French and ripe blackcurrant, plum and complexity and fine, smooth and spice flavours, moderateAmerican oak-aged, with spice slight coffee flavours, fresh tannins. $29.95 complexity and gentle tannins.and fruit cake notes, and a firm and vibrant. Refined and Elephant Hill Hawke’s Bay Enjoyable young. $22.90backbone of tannin. Worth harmonious. $55 Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 Mission Hawke’s Baycellaring. $21.99 (US) Ngatarawa Stables Reserve Grown at Te Awanga, this Merlot 2009 HHHChurch Road Merlot 2009 HHHH youthful red is deeply coloured, Slightly leafy, but full-coloured,Hawke’s Bay Merlot Fruit-driven style with deep, with strong, vibrant cassis and with plenty of plum, herb andCabernet 2008 HHHH bright colour and youthful, plum flavours, ripe, firm and spice flavour and some toasty,Dark and purple-flushed, concentrated flavours of tightly structured. Best drinking savoury notes adding a touchwith dense, youthful, plum, plums and spices, with a hint mid-2011 on. $24 (A) of complexity. $18.95blackcurrant and slight herb of coffee. Tightly structured, Mills Reef Reserve Hawke’s Redmetal Vineyardsflavours and good tannin support. ageworthy red. $22 Bay Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Basket Press MerlotWell worth cellaring. $26.95 Full-coloured, with fresh plum Cabernet Franc 2007 HHHGlazebrook Regional and spice flavours, hints of Deep and still bright in colour,Reserve Hawke’s Bay herbs and earth, and very good with good but not great depthMerlot 2009 HHHH depth and roundness. $24.95 of red berry, plum and spiceDeeply coloured, vibrantly flavours, slight leafy notes, andfruity and smooth, with finely balanced tannins. $29concentrated, plummy flavours.Fleshy, ripe, rich and long. $20 September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 153

H AW K E ’ S B AYRedmetal Vineyards Abbey Cellars Temptation Trinity Hill The Gimblett Coopers Creek SVMerlot Cabernet Franc Malbec 2009 HHH 2008 HHHHH Gimblett Gravels Cabernet2008 HHH Bold, purple-flushed colour. Dense, very ageworthy blend, Sauvignon 2007 HHHEasy-drinking, finely balanced ‘Fruit bomb’ style, fresh and based principally on cabernet Dark, concentrated and tannic.blend (88% merlot) with good soft, although not complex, sauvignon (43%) and merlot Fresh and lively, with ripebody and depth of flavour, with lots of plummy, smooth (41%). Dark, with blackcurrant/ blackcurrant and cedar notes,slightly spicy and earthy. $17 flavour. $30.95 spice flavours, notably rich, showing some complexity andSileni The Triangle Hawke’s ripe and firmly structured. Still length. $29Bay Merlot 2008 HHH Coopers Creek Four very youthful, but layered andSlightly leafy, herbal notes on Daughters 2006 HHH lingering. $34 (A, UK) Mission Jewelstonenose and palate, but also good Good, gutsy Hawke’s Bay Babich Irongate Cabernet Hawke’s Bay Cabernetdepth of plummy flavour, finely quaffer, blended from cabernet Merlot Franc 2007 HHHH Sauvignon 2008 HHHbalanced and rounded. $30 (UK) franc, syrah, merlot and malbec. Elegant red, not dense and Firm, youthful red with goodVidal Hawke’s Bay Still bright in colour, with plenty of powerful but fragrant, subtle concentration. Two judgesMerlot Cabernet firm, plummy, spicy flavour. $17 and savoury. Plummy, spicy, found it currently a bit grippy,Sauvignon 2008 HHH slightly earthy flavours, but it is also dark and fragrant,Fleshy, very fresh and vibrant, Crossroads Talisman showing good complexity, with sweet, ripe fruit characterswith good colour depth and 2008 HHH harmony and depth - and great and obvious potential. $38ripe plum/spice flavours, Fruity, smooth, blended red with drinkability. $34.95showing some savoury deep, purplish colour and sweet, Church Road Reserve SYRAHcomplexity. $19.99 (UK) juicy, malbec-like flavours of Hawke’s Bay Cabernet berries and spice, seasoned with Merlot 2007 HHHH 28 TASTEDOTHER REDS sweet oak. $39.99 (A, UK, US) Still developing, with dense, 17 RECOMMENDED bright colour and concentrated7 TASTED Matakana Estate Hawke’s flavours of blackcurrants, Good but not memorable class,6 RECOMMENDED Bay Cabernet Franc plums, spices and coffee. with many of the 2008 wines Merlot 2008 HHH Sweet-fruited, firm and - from a rain-affected harvestTrinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Deeply coloured, with a lingering, with a very long - showing less ripeness andTempranillo 2008 HHHHH bouquet of cassis and herbs. future. $36.95 density than the very highlyGenerous, serious, ageworthy Full-flavoured, cedary, spicy Coopers Creek SV regarded 2007s.red with full, youthful colour and savoury, with some Gimblett Gravelsand fresh, deep plum and spice development showing. $27 (UK) Cabernet Sauvignon Church Roadflavours, complex, savoury, Merlot 2007 HHH1/2 Reserve Hawke’s Bayfinely balanced and lingering. CABERNET Dark, with blackcurrant and Syrah 2008 HHHH1/2Rated highly by all judges. (10% SAUVIGNON spice flavours, hints of herbs and Powerful, densely colouredtouriga nacional, 2% malbec & BLENDS coffee, and a firm finish. Tightly red with concentrated flavoursand 1% viognier) $34 (A, UK) structured blend, showing good of blackcurrants, plums, darkSileni The Pacemaker 12 TASTED concentration and length. Best chocolate and black pepper,Cabernet Franc 9 RECOMMENDED drinking 2011 on. $29 seasoned with toasty oak.2008 HHH1/2 C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Complex, ripe and rich. StylishDrinking well now, with deep As usual, one of the most Cabernet Merlot Malbec wine, well worth cellaring. $36.95colour and strong blackcurrant impressive classes, proving yet 2007 HHHand herb flavours, soft and again that cabernet sauvignon Concentrated, full-coloured C.J. Pask Declarationattractive. Easy-drinking style, can be the foundation of red with plum, tobacco and Hawke’s Bay Syrahwith very satisfying weight, superb reds in Hawke’s Bay - herb flavours and a firm tannin 2007 HHHHbalance and depth. $30 although only on the warmest, grip. Still developing. Priced Powerful, dense and nutty, with most free-draining sites. sharply. $17 deep colour and concentrated coffee and spice flavours. Church Road Cuve Strongly oaked style (100% new), Cabernet Sauvignon firmly structured, with obvious 2007 HHHHH cellaring potential. $45 (A, UK) Classic claret style, with deep, bright colour and deliciously Elephant Hill Hawke’s Bay concentrated blackcurrant and Syrah 2009 HHHH spice flavours. Shows lovely Deeply coloured, with a fruit sweetness and varietal fragrant, spicy bouquet and purity, with firm, fine-grained concentrated plum, pepper and tannins. $26.95 spice flavours. Strong drink- young appeal, but also built to Villa Maria Reserve last. Rated five stars by one Hawke’s Bay panellist. $29 (A) Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2008 HHHHH Sacred Hill Deer Dense, purple/black colour. Stalkers Hawke’s Bay Powerful, with fine-grained Syrah 2008 HHHH tannins and highly concentrated, Concentrated Gimblett Gravels brambly, plummy, spicy red with fresh cassis, plum and flavours, cedary and complex. black pepper flavours. Dark and Excellent balance and finesse. dense, with firm, ripe tannins and One for the cellar. $49.99 (US) good cellaring potential. $49.90154 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

regional tastingTrinity Hill Gimblett Vidal Hawke’s Bay Syrah Trinity Hill Gimblett Beach House NobleGravels Syrah 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Gravels Noble Viognier Sauvignon Blanc 2009Highly approachable, warm Fresh, aromatic, tightly 2008 (375ml) HHHHH (375ml) HHHHand supple red (8% viognier) structured Gimblett Gravels red Hard to resist - lush, sweet, rich Fragrant, strongly honeyedwith deep colour and ripe with deep, bright colour and and soft, with mouthfilling body, bouquet. Concentrated, lusciousblackcurrant, plum and spice very good depth of plum/spice lovely, ripe, stone-fruit flavours and finely textured, althoughflavours. Fleshy and fruity, with flavours, showing some savoury and a highly perfumed bouquet. not highly complex, with rich,excellent depth through the complexity. $24.99 (UK) Rated highly by all judges. $34 sweet, marmalade-like flavourspalate. $34 (A, UK) Alpha Domus and a rounded finish. $28 Alpha Domus AD Noble Selection Glazebrook NobleTwo Gates Hawke’s Bay The Barnstormer Syrah 2009 (375ml) HHHH1/2 Harvest Riesling 2009Syrah 2007 HHHH 2008 HHH Golden, strongly botrytised (375ml) HHHHOrganically certified, Gimblett Fruit-driven style, full-bodied blend of semillon and sauvignon From Ngatarawa, a goldenGravels red with dark colour and smooth, with vibrant plum blanc. Decadent, very honeyed, dessert wine with concentratedand dense, spicy flavours. and pepper flavours and gentle sweet and oily, while retaining lemon/lime flavours and aPowerful, with a strong tannins. $24.95 (UK) good freshness. $45 strong botrytis influence,seasoning of smoky French adding apricot and honeyoak, loads of rich, ripe fruit and Bloody Bay Hawke’s Bay © Tourism New Zealand. notes. Luscious wine witha long finish. One judge scored Syrah 2008 HHH fresh acidity. $32it five stars. $55 Full-coloured, with a peppery Te Awa Noble ChardonnayGlazebrook Regional bouquet. Light but attractive, 2009 (375ml) HHHHReserve Hawke’s Bay fruit-driven style with plenty of Pale gold, honey-sweet beautySyrah 2007 HHH1/2 plummy, spicy flavour, a hint of with rich, ripe, citrusy flavours,Sturdy, deeply coloured red herbs, and a smooth finish. (from a gentle botryis influence, andwith good weight and generous, wine distributor Federal Geo) $20 excellent balance of sweetnessripe, plummy, slightly raisiny and acidity. Very fresh, livelyflavours, showing considerable C.J. Pask Gimblett Road and refreshing. $29.95complexity. $27 Syrah 2008 HHH Abbey Cellars Mary NobleMission Jewelstone Middleweight style, deeply Riesling 2009 (375ml) HHHHawke’s Bay Syrah coloured, with good depth of Crisp, citrusy, slightly appley2008 HHH1/2 blackcurrant, spice and slight and spicy, with some oilyDensely coloured, with sweet herb flavours, braced by tight richness and lively acidity. Goodfruit characters, strong berry tannins. $17 (A, UK) drink-young appeal. $22.95and spice flavours and firm,ripe tannins. Sturdy, honest Crossroads Hawke’s Bayred, built to last. $38 Syrah 2008 HHHNgatarawa Stables Reserve Fresh, vibrantly fruity andSyrah 2009 HHH1/2 supple, with moderately ripeVery youthful, with deep, plum and spice flavours, apurple-red colour and fresh hint of herbs, and gentlecassis, plum and pepper tannins. $19.99 (A, UK)flavours, showing some earthy,savoury notes. Well balanced, Mission Reserve Hawke’svibrantly fruity style with very Bay Syrah 2009 HHHsatisfying depth. $22 Gimblett Gravels (predominantly)Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay red with deep colour and strongSyrah 2009 HHH1/2 blackcurrant, plum and blackFleshy and fruity, with deep pepper flavours. Fresh and ripe,colour, plenty of peppery, with good length. $25.95plummy flavour, a hint of darkchocolate and a well-rounded Te Awa Left Field Hawke’sfinish. $19 (A, UK) Bay Syrah 2009 HHH Fruit-driven style, grown in the Gimblett Gravels, with deep colour and very good depth of strongly varietal, plummy, peppery flavour. Fresh, vibrant and youthful. $25.95 SWEET WHITES 7 TASTED 6 RECOMMENDED Small, strong class that demonstrated Hawke’s Bay’s ability to produce rich, botrytised sweet wines from several different varieties - sauvignon blanc, semillon, riesling and viognier. September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 155

MICHAEL COOPERWhite wines from the 2009 vintage dominated the Seresin Marlborough ½top awards, including superb examples of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009sauvignon blanc, Nelson riesling, Waipara pinot gris Authoritative, organically Amisfield Central Otagoand chardonnays from Gisborne and Marlborough. certified wine, rich and Pinot Noir 2008Villa Maria, which featured prominently among the top complex. Weighty and sweet- Estate-grown at Lowburn,ratings, also produced arguably the best-value wine - fruited, with deep, ripe, tropical this beautifully floral, suppleThornbury Gisborne Chardonnay 2009. fruit flavours, subtle oak red has vibrant cherry/plum (15% barrel-fermented) and flavours, seasoned with qualityPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. a dry, rounded, lasting finish. oak. Refined and savoury,Wines available in export markets are shown as Outstanding. $27 (A, UK, US) with the muscle to age and(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Villa Maria Reserve good complexity, it’s still very Barrique Fermented youthful; open mid-2011+. Gisborne Chardonnay 2009 $39.95 (A, UK, US) Very elegant, rich wine, tight Babich Winemakers’Greystone Waipara Greenhough Hope and youthful. Creamy-textured, Reserve MarlboroughPinot Gris 2009 Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008 with grapefruit, peach and nut Sauvignon Blanc 2009Weighty, softly textured, Lovely, youthful Nelson red, flavours showing impressive Punchy and highly aromatic, inmedium style with stone-fruit, deeply coloured, powerful delicacy, complexity and depth. a far more nettley, herbal stylepear, lychee and spice flavours, and concentrated. Deep, ripe Refined, immaculate wine, still than past vintages. Fleshy andshowing lovely ripeness and flavours of plums and spices, in its infancy. $34.99 rich, with a very subtle seasoningdelicacy. Fragrant, full-bodied unusually savoury and complex, Villa Maria Single of oak adding complexity. Quiteand slightly oily, with notable and the structure to age well. A Vineyard Southern forward. $24.95 (A, UK, US)depth and harmony. $28 (A) top vintage. $42 (UK, US) Clays MarlboroughGreenhough Hope Mount Riley Seventeen Pinot Noir 2008 Clark Estate SingleVineyard Riesling 2009 Valley Chardonnay 2009 Lovely, generous, youthful red, Vineyard Awatere ValleyVery intense, racy, hand- Classy, concentrated, fully grown on the south side of the Riesling 2009picked Nelson wine, made in a barrel-fermented style. Rich Wairau Valley. Deeply coloured, Lovely, light, low-alcoholmedium-dry style. Beautifully bouquet, with lovely depth of with bold, sweet-fruit style with gentle sweetness.poised, with concentrated, ripe, peachy, slightly appley and characters and fresh, plum/spice Attractively scented, with acitrusy, limey, slightly spicy spicy flavours, a distinct hint flavours, showing excellent fresh, poised palate, distinctlyflavours, a minerally streak and of butterscotch, and notable complexity and density. Drink Mosel-like, showing ripe,loads of personality. Should be complexity and harmony. Best now or cellar. $54.99 citrusy flavours, very delicatelong-lived. $22 (UK, US) yet of this label. $29.95 (UK) Villa Maria Single and harmonious. Already Vineyard Taylors Pass delicious. $24.50 Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Classic example of the Awatere Valley style. Very vibrant and punchy, minerally and herbal, with intense capsicum and ‘tomato stalk’ aromas and a long, dry, racy finish. $25.99 (UK, US) Wither Hills Single Vineyard Rarangi Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 From a coastal site at the north- eastern edge of the Wairau Valley, this is a full-on style, clearly herbaceous, weighty and rich, with intense, pure gooseberry/ lime aromas and flavours, racy and long. $25 (A, UK)156 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

recent releasesCarrick Central Otago Kim Crawford SP Corner Mitre Rocks Central Riesling 2009 50 Vineyard Hawke’s Bay Otago Pinot Noir 2008Poised, punchy, medium style Merlot 2008 Perfumed and sweet-fruited, Babich Marlboroughwith a full-bloomed bouquet Sturdy, generous red, hand- with strong cherry, plum and Pinot Gris 2009and concentrated grapefruit picked and matured for 16 spice flavours, well-integrated Alsace-style, partly barrel-and apple flavours. Very vibrant months in French and American nutty oak adding complexity, and fermented, with mouthfillingand tangy, with a sliver of oak casks. Deeply coloured, finely balanced tannins. Richly body and strong stone-fruit, pearsweetness giving early appeal with fresh, brambly, plummy varietal wine, very elegant and and spice flavours. A medium-dryand racy acidity and promising flavours, showing excellent ageworthy. $37.50 (A, UK, US) style, it is deliciously harmonious,a long life ahead. $21 (A, UK) concentration, hints of coffee with a rich, well-rounded finish. and sweet oak, good complexity Omihi Road Waipara $19.95 (A, UK, US)Greystone Waipara and the power to age. $33 Gewurztraminer 2009 Borthwick VineyardGewurztraminer 2009 Millton Te Arai Vineyard Rich, intensely varietal North Paddy BorthwickHighly perfumed, with gentle Chenin Blanc 2008 Canterbury wine, weighty and Wairarapa Riesling 2009sweetness and a strong surge Certified organic, this Gisborne youthful. Slightly oily, with Tight, youthful Gladstoneof beautifully ripe lychee and wine is already very expressive. concentrated peach, lychee wine, made in a medium-dryspice flavours. Mouthfilling and Highly scented, it has distinctly and spice flavours, gentle style. Good vigour, intensitysoft, with excellent delicacy pineappley, slightly honeyed sweetness and fresh acidity. and balance, with penetratingand a slightly oily, richly spiced flavours, woven with fresh Best drinking 2011+. $24 peach, lemon and limefinish. $28 (A) acidity, a subtle seasoning of Te Kairanga Runholder flavours and a long, minerallyHawkshead Central Otago oak, and excellent complexity Martinborough finish. $23.95 (UK, US)Pinot Gris 2009 and richness. $32 (A, UK, US) Chardonnay 2008Estate-grown at Gibbston, this Powerful, fully barrel-fermented Black Estate Waiparafull-bodied, invitingly scented Murray’s Road style with substantial body Chardonnay 2009wine has very youthful peach, Marlborough Sauvignon and concentrated, ripe, peach Up-front style, hand-pickedpear and lychee flavours, Blanc 2009 and grapefruit flavours, mealy, and barrel-fermented, with adeliciously vibrant and rich, Immaculate, single-vineyard toasty, slightly minerally and strong, peachy, toasty bouquet.and a dryish, gently spicy, long wine, grown at Spring Creek. complex. Shows excellent Concentrated palate, with a hintfinish. $26 (A, UK, US) Very fresh and vibrant, with weight and richness, with a of butterscotch and fresh acidity.La Michelle 2007 concentrated, ripe, tropical crisp, dry, long finish. $29 Drink now or cellar. $31 (A)From Margrain, this classy fruit flavours, woven with crisp Villa Maria SingleMartinborough bubbly is a acidity, and a dry, sustained Vineyard Seddon Pinot Boreham Wood Single2:1 blend of pinot noir and finish. A fine debut. $24.95 Gris 2009 Vineyard Awatere Valleychardonnay, lees-aged for 2½ Awatere Valley wine, still Pinot Gris 2009years. It has rich, lemony, appley unfolding, with substantial body Alsace-style with mouthfillingflavours, very biscuity and and rich, ripe stone-fruit and body, fleshy and well-rounded.yeasty, and an unusually dry, but spice flavours. Finely textured, Strong, ripe peach, pear andcrisp and harmonious, finish. $38 with a dryish finish and excellent spice flavours, showing some cellaring potential. $29.99 (A) complexity and excellent Voss Martinborough texture, richness and downright Pinot Noir 2008 drinkability. $24.50 (UK) From vines up to 21 years old, this classy young red is mouthfilling and richly varietal, with deep cherry, plum and spice flavours, fresh, ripe, savoury and supple. Open mid-2011 onwards. $39.95 (A, UK, US) Voss Reserve Chardonnay 2008 Youthful, refined Martinborough wine, fully barrel-fermented, with rich, peachy, slightly mealy and biscuity flavours, showing excellent delicacy and complexity. Creamy-textured and long. $27.95 (A) September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 157

MICHAEL COOPERBouldevines Marlborough Greenhough Nelson River Farm Godfrey Road Walnut Block SingleChardonnay 2008 Pinot Noir 2008 Marlborough Merlot 2009 Vineyard MarlboroughHigh-flavoured style, fully barrel- Ripely scented, supple red Dark and dense, with cassis, Pinot Noir 2008fermented. Mouthfilling, citrusy, with excellent depth of cherry, spice and herb flavours. Some Full-coloured Wairau Valleybuttery and toasty, with excellent plum and slight herb flavours, leafy notes, but savoury, red, mouthfilling and supple,weight, complexity and richness. a subtle seasoning of oak, complex and finely structured, with excellent depth ofDrinking well now. $24.50 savoury, complex notes and with excellent depth and ripe cherry, plum and spiceBrennan Gibbston good tannin support. Delicious, obvious potential. $29 (A) flavours and complexity fromPinot Noir 2007 harmonious wine, for drinking 16 months in French oakDistinctly cool-climate style now or cellaring. $26 (UK, US) Selaks Winemaker’s casks. $30 (A, UK, US)from Gibbston, in Central Greystone Waipara Favourite Hawke’s BayOtago. Slightly leafy, but Dry Riesling 2009 Viognier 2009 ½shows excellent substance and Fleshy style with rich, ripe Seductively soft, strapping winestructure, with strong cherry, flavours and a rounded, dryish (15% alc), grown at Haumoana Bascand Marlboroughplum and herb flavours and finish. Citrus and tropical fruit and handled without oak. Fresh Sauvignon Blanc 2009good, spicy complexity. $43 flavours, slightly spicy, with stone-fruit and spice flavours, Freshly herbaceous style,Bushmere Estate Classic excellent depth and plenty of very ripe-tasting, with a slightly estate-grown at Rapaura.Chardonnay 2009 drink-young appeal. $26 (A) oily richness and dry finish. Crisp, with very good bodyYouthful Gisborne wine, hand- Margrain Martinborough Drink now onwards. $20.99 and depth of tropical fruit andharvested and fully barrel- Chardonnay 2009 Soho McQueen Central green capsicum flavours, wellfermented. Poised and finely Elegant, cool-climate style, Otago Pinot Noir 2009 balanced and lively. $16.99textured, with concentrated with crisp, lemony, peachy Richly scented, deeply Bird Big Barrelpeach and slight grapefruit flavours, slightly minerally coloured blend of Gibbston Old Schoolhouseflavours, hints of toast and and tight. Barrel-fermented and Bannockburn grapes. Vineyard Marlboroughbutterscotch, and obvious (10% new), in a subtle, fairly Cherry, plum and slight herb Pinot Noir 2009cellaring potential. $23 complex, food-wine style that flavours, vibrant and supple, Full-bodied, moderately richBushmere Estate Gisborne should mature well. $28 with excellent complexity and red with ripe cherry, plum andGewurztraminer 2009 Margrain Proprietors concentration. $39.99 slight herb flavours, a gentle oakExotically perfumed, medium- Selection Riesling 2009 Thornbury Gisborne influence, and plenty of drink-dry style with good body and Tightly structured, minerally Chardonnay 2009 young appeal. $38.95 (A, US)concentrated, ripe flavours of Martinborough wine, medium- Creamy-textured, partly Bushmere Estate Classicpeaches, spices, lychees and bodied, with citrusy, slightly barrel-fermented style, already Chardonnay 2008ginger. Drinking well now, but peachy flavours, showing good delicious. Fleshy, with plenty of Enjoyable now, this Gisbornealso worth cellaring. $22 intensity. Lively, with firm fresh, ripe, citrusy fruit flavour, wine is full-bodied, withCarrick Central Otago acid spine and good ageing hints of toast and butterscotch generous, ripe, peachy flavours,Dry Riesling 2009 potential. $24 and a rich, well-rounded finish. slightly honeyed and toasty,Tightly structured, with vibrant, Mount Dottrel Central Fine value. $19.99 and a smooth finish. $25citrusy, slightly spicy flavours, Otago Pinot Noir 2008 Two Rivers Bushmere Estate Gisborneshowing good intensity, and a Floral and vibrantly fruity, with Juliet Marlborough Chardonnay Viognier 2009fractionally off-dry, appetisingly strong, ripe cherry/plum flavours Riesling 2009 This 70/30 blend has strongcrisp finish. Elegant, very seasoned with quality oak, Youthful, very fresh and up-front appeal. Fermented inyouthful, minerally wine, worth a hint of herbs, considerable tight, single-vineyard wine, seasoned French casks, it’scellaring. $21 (A, UK) complexity and a rounded, very showing good intensity of an off-dry style with plenty ofCarrick Josephine Central harmonious finish. Drinking well vibrant, lemony flavours. peachy, slightly buttery flavourOtago Riesling 2009 now. $32.50 (A, UK, US) Medium-bodied, strongly and a seductively smoothLight-bodied, medium-sweet River Farm varietal wine, best cellared to finish. $25style, very youthful, with an Godrey Road Marlborough mid-2011+. $22 (A, UK) Bushmere Estate Gisbornearray of lemon, apple, lime Chardonnay 2009 Viognier 2009and sherbet flavours, showing Full-bodied, creamy, single- Robust, fleshy, creamy wine,excellent intensity and poise. vineyard wine, barrel- barrel-fermented, with highTight, racy wine, best cellared fermented. Weighty, complex alcohol and plenty of peachy,for a year or two. $25 (A, UK) style with concentrated, toasty flavour. Still comingFolding Hill peachy, biscuity flavours, a together, but shows goodBendigo Central Otago hint of butterscotch and a dry, potential. $25Pinot Noir 2008 finely balanced finish. Worth Clark Estate SingleSturdy, deeply coloured, single- cellaring. $29 (A) Vineyard Awatere Valleyvineyard red with the power to Pinot Gris 2009age well. Still fresh, with sweet- Freshly scented, mouthfillingfruit delights and concentrated and vibrantly fruity, with pearcherry/plum flavours, savoury and lychee flavours, slightlyand complex. $35 (UK) spicy and limey. Off-dry style with good delicacy and varietal character. $24.50 (A, UK)158 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

recent releasesCoopers Creek SV The Manu Marlborough Soho Marlborough Babich MarlboroughGroover Gisborne Gruner Pinot Gris 2009 Pinot Noir 2009 Dry Riesling 2008Veltliner 2009 Ripely scented, dry style from Single-vineyard, Brancott Valley Strong, citrusy, appley flavours,Fresh, medium-bodied white Steve Bird with mouthfilling wine, ruby-hued, with good with a sliver of sweetness andfrom a classic Austrian variety, body, a slightly oily texture and weight, ripe fruit characters and firm acid spine. Some minerally,very rare in New Zealand, with very good depth of peachy, smooth cherry/plum flavours, toasty, bottle-aged notes addcitrusy, peachy, slightly spicy gently spiced flavours. (A, US) showing some savoury complexity. $19.95 (A, UK, US)flavours. Fruity and smooth, Margrain Martinborough complexity. Quite forward. $30 Farmers Marketbut not highly distinctive. $24 Pinot Gris 2009 Te Kairanga Estate Petite Pinot 2009Farmers Market Hawke’s Full-bodied (14.5% alc), bone- Martinborough Floral, Beaujolais-style blendBay Merlot 2009 dry wine with lemon, peach Pinot Noir 2009 of Marlborough pinot noir andSturdy, deeply coloured red, and spice flavours, crisp and Good value, drink-young style, Gisborne merlot. Vibrantly fruitygrown at Te Awanga. Fruit- strong. Made in a more austere oak-matured for eight months. and supple, with fresh cherry,driven style with very good style than most, but a good Ruby-hued and floral, with strong, plum and spice flavours, ripedepth of ripe blackcurrant/plum food wine. $28 fresh berry/spice flavours, a and smooth. $19.90flavours, a hint of sweet oak Margrain Home Block hint of herbs and some savoury Manu Marlboroughand gentle tannins. $19.90 Martinborough complexity. $21 (A, UK, US) Pinot Noir 2009Fiddler’s Green Waipara Pinot Noir 2008 Te Kairanga Runholder Ruby-hued, floral and supple,Chardonnay 2008 Mouthfilling, generous red, full- Hawke’s Bay Merlot with vibrant cherry/plumCrisp, distinctly cool-climate coloured, with strong cherry, Cabernet Franc 2008 flavours, hints of herbsstyle, barrel-fermented, with plum and spice flavours and a Gimblett Gravels blend, and spices, and a light oakfresh, strong, peachy, citrusy hint of herbs. Highly enjoyable, strongly seasoned with French seasoning. A drink-youngflavours, slightly toasty and but slightly green and hard on oak (60% new). Spicy bouquet, charmer. $24.95 (A, US)honeyed, good acid spine and the finish. $52 (UK) with fresh, strong blackcurrant/ Sileni Cellar Selectionsome mealy complexity. Drink Margrain River’s Edge plum flavours and a tight, firm Sparkling Brut NVnow or cellar. $25 Martinborough finish. Needs time. $29 Light and lively style, madeForrest Marlborough Riesling 2009 Ti Point Gisborne from Hawke’s Bay chardonnay.Chardonnay 2007 Already enjoyable, this is a Viognier 2009 Fresh lemon/apple flavours,Fresh, fruit-driven style medium style with fresh, ripe, Fruit-driven style, mouthfilling, crisp and refreshing, withbalanced for easy drinking, peachy, slightly spicy flavours, with peachy, citrusy, slightly spicy a touch of nutty, yeastywith citrusy, slightly buttery showing good depth, and flavours, a touch of oak (20% complexity. $20flavours, showing some mealy lively acidity to balance its barrel-fermented) and a fresh, Sileni Cellar Selectioncomplexity, and good depth. gentle sweetness. Drink now crisp, bone-dry finish. $20.90 (A) Sparkling Rose NVEnjoyable now. $20 (A) or cellar. $20 Torlesse Waipara Vivacious Hawke’s BayGibson Bridge Tresor Mount Riley Marlborough Riesling 2009 bubbly, based principally onRouge 2009 Chardonnay 2009 Good drink-young style, medium- merlot. Pink/pale red, withRare (300 bottles only) Elegant, fruit-driven style (50% bodied, with faintly honeyed, crisp raspberry and strawberryMarlborough blend of syrah, barrel-fermented), with vibrant, citrusy, slightly peachy flavours, flavours, slightly yeasty, gentlymerlot, pinot noir and malbec. peachy flavours to the fore, a a gentle splash of sweetness sweet and smooth.Full but not dense colour, with hint of butterscotch and fresh, and fresh acidity. $17 Sileni Cellar Selectionfresh plum and spice flavours appetising acidity. Delicious Sparkling Sauvignonin a middleweight style with young. $17.95 (UK)  Blanc NVvery good depth and some Paua Marlborough Hawke’s Bay bubbly with ripecomplexity. $65 Pinot Noir Ara Marlborough fruit flavours, fresh, slightlyHawkshead Central Otago From Highfield Estate, this is Pinot Noir 2009 sweet and appetisingly crisp,Pinot Noir 2008 an attractive drink-young style. Drink-young style, partly oak- in an uncomplicated but lively,Ruby-hued regional blend Fresh-scented, it has ripe cherry, matured. Medium-bodied, enjoyable style that makes a(Lowburn and Gibbston), with plum and slight herb flavours, with youthful cherry, plum and stimulating aperitif. $20moderately rich cherry/plum showing good delicacy and spice flavours, showing good White Gold Singleflavours, hints of herbs and harmony. $22.95 (A, UK, US) freshness and immediacy. Vineyard Marlboroughtamarilloes, well-integrated Sacred Hill $20.95 (A, UK, US) Pinot Gris 2009oak and a very smooth finish. Halo Marlborough Ara Pathway Marlborough Faintly pink, fleshy, full-bodied$39 (A, UK, US) Pinot Noir 2009 Pinot Noir 2009 wine with a touch of hardnessMain Divide Waipara Fresh strawberry/spice Forward style, ruby-hued and amid its strong, ripe, peachy,Valley Chardonnay 2008 flavours, showing good depth vibrantly fruity. Cherryish, spicy flavours. $15Drinking well now, this North and some savoury complexity. plummy flavours, with aCanterbury wine has fresh acidity Scented and supple, with lots hint of herbs, some savouryand generous, peachy, slightly of drink-young appeal. $25.90 complexity and gentlehoneyed flavours, showing tannins. $19.95 (A, UK, US)considerable complexity andrichness. $19.95 (A) September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 159

contact detailsBRANDY, COGNAC & ARMAGNAC Tapestry Wines Heidenreich Vineyards Earthworks WinesAlepat Taylor Ph: (08) 8323 9196 Ph: (08) 8563 2644 Ph: 0411 432 453Ph: (03) 9487 2599 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.tapestrywines.com.au Web: www.heidenreichvineyards.com.au Web: www.earthworkswines.comWeb: www.alepat.com.au The Alchemists Wines Pty Ltd Hungerford Hill Wines Pty Ltd Eden Road WinesAngove Family Winemakers Ph: 0438 223 431 Ph: (02) 4990 0709 Ph: 0409 325 841Ph: (08) 8264 2366 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.alchemistswines.com.au Web: www.hungerfordhill.com.au Web: www.edenroadwines.com.auWeb: www.angove.com.au The Growers/Koolama Peter Lehmann Wines Limited Feet First Wines/Wine AlertMoet Hennessy Australia Ph: (08) 9755 2121 Ph: (08) 8563 2500 Ph: (08) 9314 7133Ph: (02) 8344 9905 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: malcolm.stopp@ E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.thegrowers.com peterlehmannwines.com Web: www.feetfirstwines.com.auWeb: www.moet-hennessy.com.au Warner Glen Estate Pty Ltd/Frog Belly Web: www.peterlehmannwines.com.au Ferngrove Wines Ph: (08) 9337 4601 Pokolbin Estate Vineyard Ph: (08) 9757 3338NEW RELEASES E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 4998 7524 E-mail: [email protected] Estate Web: www.warnerglenestate.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.ferngrove.com.auPh: (08) 9755 7200 Web: www.pokolbinestate.com.au Fogarty Wine Group/MillbrookE-mail: [email protected] RIVER REGIONS Warburn Estate /Barking Owl/Deep WoodWeb: www.churchview.com.au Buller Wines Ph: (02) 6963 8300 Ph: (08) 9282 5480Crabtree Ph: (03) 5452 1825 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8843 0069 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.warburnestate.com.au Web: www.millbrookwinery.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buller.com.au Were Estate Fosters GroupWeb: www.crabtreewines.com.au Constellation Wines Australia Ph: (08) 9755 6273 Ph: (03) 8626 3300Fox Creek Wines Ph: (08) 8392 2220 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8556 2403 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.wereestate.com.au Web: www.fosters.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.cwines.com.au Wills Domain Estate Fox Creek WinesWeb: www.foxcreekwines.com De Bortoli Winery Ph: (08) 9755 2327 Ph: (08) 8556 2403Fox Gordon Ph: (02) 6966 0100 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8388 7155 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.willsdomain.com.au Web: www.foxcreekwines.comE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.debortoli.com.au GalafreyWeb: www.foxgordon.com.au Deakin Estate/Wingara Wine Group SHIRAZ, SYRAH & BLENDS Ph: (08) 9851 2022Glen Roy Winemakers Pty Ltd/Bellwether Ph: (03) 9682 5000 Aldi Stores E-mail: [email protected]: 0417 080 945 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 8369 3119 Web: www.galafrey.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.deakinestate.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Grant BurgeWeb: www.bellwetherwines.com.au Trentham Estate Web: www.aldi.com.au Ph: (08) 8563 7452Jacob’s Creek/Orlando Wines Ph: (03) 5024 8888 Alepat Taylor E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8521 3000 (Visitor Centre) E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 9487 2599 Web: www.grantburgewines.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Haselgrove WinesWeb: www.jacobscreek.com Web: www.alepat.com.au Ph: (08) 8323 8706James Haselgrove Wines SEMILLON & BLENDS Amphora Wine Group E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8383 0886 Aldi Stores Ph: (08) 8340 0477 Web: www.haselgrove.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 8369 3119 E-mail: [email protected] Jacob’s Creek/Orlando WinesWeb: www.haselgrovevignerons.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.amphorapremiumwines.com.au Ph: (08) 8521 3000 (Visitor Centre)jb wines Web: www.aldi.com.au Bimbadgen Estate E-mail: [email protected]: 0400 115 996 Allandale Ph: (02) 4998 4600 Web: www.jacobscreek.comE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 4990 4526 E-mail: [email protected] James Haselgrove WinesWeb: www.jbwines.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.bimbadgen.com.au Ph: (08) 8383 0886Kellermeister Holdings Pty Ltd/Trevor Jones Web: www.allandalewinery.com.au Bleasdale Vineyards E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8524 4303 Audrey Wilkinson Ph: (08) 8537 3001 Web: www.haselgrovevignerons.comE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 4998 7411 E-mail: [email protected] K1 by Geoff Hardy WinesWeb: www.kellermeister.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.bleasdale.com.au Ph: (08) 8388 3700Lou Miranda Estate Web: www.audreywilkinson.com.au Blue Pyrenees Estate E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8524 4537 Bimbadgen Estate Ph: (03) 5465 1111 Web: www.k1.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 4998 4600 E-mail: [email protected] Kellermeister Holdings Pty Ltd/Trevor JonesWeb: www.loumirandaestate.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.bluepyrenees.com.au Ph: (08) 8524 4303Michelini Wines/Devils Creek Web: www.bimbadgen.com.au Brothers In Arms E-mail: [email protected]: (03) 5751 1990 Buller Wines Ph: (08) 8537 3182 Web: www.kellermeister.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 5452 1825 E-mail: [email protected] Kilikanoon WinesWeb: www.micheliniwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.brothersinarms.com.au Ph: (08) 8843 4206Montara Winery Web: www.buller.com.au Buller Wines E-mail: [email protected]: (03) 5352 3868 Bunnamagoo Estate Ph: (03) 5452 1825 Web: www.kilikanoon.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 6373 3046 E-mail: [email protected] Kimbolton WinesWeb: www.montara.com.au E-mail: cellardoor@ Web: www.buller.com.au Ph: (08) 8537 3359Orlando Wines bunnamagoowines.com.au Cathcart Ridge Estate E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8521 3111 (Winery) Web: www.bunnamagoowines.com.au Ph: (03) 5352 1997 Web: www.kimboltonwines.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Coolangatta Estate E-mail: [email protected] Koonara Wines Pty LtdWeb: www.orlandowines.com Ph: (02) 4448 7131 Web: www.cathcartwines.com.au Ph: (08) 8737 3222Peter Lehmann Wines Limited E-mail: [email protected] Chain Of Ponds E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8563 2500 Web: www.coolangattaestate.com.au Ph: (08) 8389 1415 Web: www.koonara.comE-mail: malcolm.stopp@ De Bortoli Winery E-mail: [email protected] Lady Bay Vineyardpeterlehmannwines.com Ph: (02) 6966 0100 Web: www.chainofponds.com.au Ph: 0413 185 771Web: www.peterlehmannwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Chapel Hill E-mail: [email protected] Estate Pty Ltd Web: www.debortoli.com.au Ph: (08) 8323 8429 Web: www.ladybay.com.auPh: (08) 8562 2142 First Creek Wines E-mail: [email protected] Leconfield Wines Pty LtdE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 4998 7293 Web: www.chapelhillwine.com.au /Richard HamiltonWeb: www.roclandwinery.com E-mail: [email protected] Claymore Wines Ph: (08) 8323 8830Samuel Smith & Son Pty Ltd Web: www.firstcreekwines.com.au Ph: (08) 8843 0200 E-mail: [email protected]: (02) 8344 8280 Galafrey E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.leconfieldwines.comE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9851 2022 Web: www.claymorewines.com.au Lou Miranda EstateWeb: www.samsmith.com E-mail: [email protected] Constellation Wines Australia Ph: (08) 8524 4537Saracen Estates Web: www.galafrey.com.au Ph: (08) 8392 2220 E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 9755 6099 Gartelmann E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.loumirandaestate.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 4930 7113 Web: www.cwines.com.au Madeleines/VincognitaWeb: www.saracenestates.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Credaro Family Estate/Beach Head Ph: 0447 009 795Simpatico Wines Web: www.gartelmann.com.au Ph: (08) 9755 1111 E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8561 1227 Haselgrove Wines E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.vincognita.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8323 8706 Web: www.beachheadwines.com.au Maximus Wines AustraliaWeb: www.vinecrest.com.au E-mail: [email protected] De Bortoli Winery Ph: (08) 8323 8777Streicker Wines Web: www.haselgrove.com.au Ph: (02) 6966 0100 E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 9755 2108 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.maximuswinesaustralia.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.debortoli.com.auWeb: www.streickerwines.com.au160 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

contact detailsMcLaren Vale Premium Wines Stuart Wines Co Pty Ltd/White Box Fox Gordon Granite Hills Wines Pty LtdPh: (08) 8323 7940 /Buddha’s Wines Ph: (08) 8388 7155 Ph: (03) 5423 7273E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 5432 9477 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.associates.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.foxgordon.com.au Web: www.granitehills.com.auMoppity Vineyards Web: www.stuartwinesco.com.au Grant Burge Killara EstatePh: (02) 6382 6222 Sylvan Springs Estates Ph: (08) 8563 7452 Ph: 0412 560 522E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8383 0500 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.moppity.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.grantburgewines.com.au Web: www.killaraestate.com.auMount Camel Winery/Peregrine Ridge Wines Web: www.sylvansprings.com.au Haselgrove Wines LindenderryPh: 0411 741 772 Taltarni Vineyards/Clover Hill Ph: (08) 8323 8706 Ph: (03) 8616 0534E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 5459 7915 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.peregrineridge.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.haselgrove.com.au Web: www.lindnederry.com.auNegociants Australia Web: www.taltarni.com.au Hungerford Hill Wines Pty Ltd Macedon Ridge/VintnerpartnersPh: (08) 8561 3200 Thomas Hardy Wines Pty Ltd Ph: (02) 4998 7666 Ph: 0412 931 400Web: www.negociantsaustralia.com Ph: 0411 191 043 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]/www.redbankwines.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.hungerfordhill.com.au Web: www.macedonridge.comOakvale Wines Pty Ltd Web: www.thomashardywines.com.au Jacob’s Creek/Orlando Wines Rathbone Wine Group/Yering StationPh: (02) 4998 7088 Thomas Vineyard Estate Ph: (08) 8521 3000 (Visitor Centre) Ph: 0448 974 972E-mail: customer.services@ Ph: (08) 8557 8583 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.jacobscreek.com Web: www.yering.comWeb: www.oakvalewines.com.au Web: www.thomasvineyard.com.au J&J Vineyards Seville EstateOrlando Wines Thorn-Clarke Wines Ph: (08) 8323 9888 Ph: (03) 5964 2622Ph: (08) 8521 3111 (Winery) Ph: (08) 8564 3036 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.jjwines.com.au Web: www.sevilleestate.com.auWeb: www.orlandowines.com Web: www.thornclarkewines.com Monichino Wines Stuart Wines Co Pty Ltd/White Box/Parker Brothers Wines Pty Ltd Totino Nominees Ph: (03) 5864 6452 Buddha’s WinesPh: 0417 843 137 Ph: (08) 8349 1200 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 5432 9477E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.monichino.com.au E-mail: [email protected]: www.parkerbrotherswines.com Web: www.festivalcitywines.com.au Morambro Creek Wines Web: www.stuartwinesco.com.auPaul Conti Trinity Hill /Jip Jip Rocks/Mt Monster Underground WinemakersPh: (08) 9409 9160 Ph: +64 6 879 7778 Ph: (08) 8723 1065 Ph: (03) 9775 4518E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.paulcontiwines.com.au Web: www.trinityhill.com Web: www.jipjiprocks.com.au Web: www.ugwine.com.auPaulett Wines Wirra Wirra Vineyards Naked Run Yarrawood EstatePh: (08) 8843 4328 Ph: (08) 8323 8414 Ph: 0412 537 443 Ph: (03) 9730 2003E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.pauletts.com.au Web: www.wirra.com.au Web: nakedrunwines.com.au Web: www.yarrawood.com.auPepper Tree Wines Wyndham Estate /Orlando Wines Orlando WinesPh: (02) 4998 7539 Ph: (02) 4938 3444 (Cellar Door) Ph: (08) 8521 3111 (Winery) HAWKES BAY, NZE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Mission Estate WineryWeb: www.peppertreewines.com.au Web: www.wyndhamestate.com.au Web: www.orlandowines.com Ph: +64 6 845 9350Peter Lehmann Wines Limited Yarravale Patrick T Wines E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8563 2500 Ph: (03) 9735 1819 Ph: (08) 8737 3687 Pernod Ricard New ZealandE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 9 336 8368Web: www.peterlehmannwines.com.au Web: www.yarravalewines.com.au Web: www.patricktwines.com E-mail: [email protected] R. Brown Family Vineyards Pertaringa Wines Web: www.Pernod-Ricard-nz.com/All Saints Estate TOP 40 Ph: (08) 8323 8125 Trinity HillPh: (02) 6035 2217 Aldi Stores E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 6 879 7778E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 8369 3119 Web: www.pertaringa.com.au E-mail: [email protected]: www.allsaintswine.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Peter Lehmann Wines Limited Web: www.trinityhill.comPlantagenet Wines Web: www.aldi.com.au Ph: (08) 8563 2500 Two GatesPh: (08) 9851 3131 Bimbadgen Estate E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 276 936 111E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 4998 4600 Web: www.peterlehmannwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected]: www.plantagenetwines.com E-mail: [email protected] Robert Oatley Vineyards Pty Ltd Web: www.twogates.co.nzQuarisa Wines Web: www.bimbadgen.com.au Ph: (02) 9433 3223Ph: (02) 6963 6222 Churchview Estate E-mail: [email protected] MICHAEL COOPER’SE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9755 7200 Web: www.robertoatley.com.au RECENT RELEASESWeb: www.quarisa.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Rosedale Wines Amisfield Wine CompanyRidgeView Wines Web: www.churchview.com.au Ph: (08) 8562 8562 Ph: +64 3 442 0557Ph: 0418 965 551 Credaro Family Estate/Beach Head E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9755 1111 Web: www.rosedalewines.com.au Web: www.amisfield.co.nzWeb: www.ridgeview.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Shingleback Black EstateRobert Oatley Vineyards Pty Ltd Web: www.beachheadwines.com.au Ph: (08) 8323 7388 Ph: +64 3 310 6930Ph: (02) 9433 3223 De Bortoli Winery E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Ph: (02) 6966 0100 Web: www.shingleback.com.au Web: www.blackestate.co.nzWeb: www.robertoatley.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Trentham Estate Clark Estate Ltd/Boreham WoodRoennfeldt Web: www.debortoli.com.au Ph: (03) 5024 8888 Ph: +64 3 579 2224Ph: 0411 180 960 DiGiorgio Family Wines E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8736 3222 Web: www.trenthamestate.com.au Web: www.borehamwoodwines.co.nzRosedale Wines E-mail: [email protected] Warrenmang Vineyard Constellation New ZealandPh: (08) 8562 8562 Web: www.digiorgio.com.au Ph: (03) 5467 2324 Ph: +64 9 412 4805E-mail: [email protected] DogRidge Vineyard E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.rosedalewines.com.au Ph: (08) 8383 0140 Web: www.bazzani.com.au Web: www.cwines.comSaddler’s Creek Wines E-mail: [email protected] Greenhough VineyardPh: (02) 4991 1770 Web: www.dogridge.com.au YARRA VALLEY Ph: +64 3 542 3868E-mail: [email protected] Fogarty Wine Group/Millbrook Alden Park Pty Ltd E-mail: [email protected]: www.saddlerscreekwines.com.au /Barking Owl/Deep Wood Ph: (03) 5977 3501 Web: www.greenhough.co.nzShe-Oak Hill Ph: (08) 9282 5480 E-mail: [email protected] Greystone WinesPh: (03) 9882 3715 E-mail: tastingroom@ Web: www.aldenpark.com Ph: +64 272 525 331E-mail: [email protected] millbrookwinery.com.au Galli Estate E-mail: dom.maxwell@Web: www.sheoakhill.com.au Web: www.millbrookwinery.com.au Ph: (03) 9747 1444 greystonewines.co.nzSimpatico Wines Four Sisters E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.greystonewines.co.nzPh: (08) 8561 1227 Ph: (03) 5794 2555 Web: www.galliestate.com.au Hawkshead VineyardE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander Ph: +64 3 409 0210Web: www.vinecrest.com.au Web: www.foursisters.com.au Ph: (03) 5962 6111 E-mail: [email protected] Hallett Fox Creek Wines E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.hawksheadwine.comPh: (08) 8563 7000 Ph: (08) 8556 2403 Web: www.giant-steps.com.au Murrays Road WinesE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Goona Warra Vineyard Ph: +64 3 570 5396Web: www.sthallett.com Web: www.foxcreekwines.com Ph: (03) 9740 7766 E-mail: [email protected] John Wines E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.murraysroadwines.co.nzPh: (08) 8843 0105 Web: www.goonawarra.com.auE-mail: [email protected]: www.stephenjohnwines.com September/October 2010 W I N E S TAT E 161

aftertasteELISABETH KINGDo yourself a fava - try cava and kavaYOU SAY tom-ah-to, I say tom-ay-to. After careful washing, The first thing you notice when you sipThe wordplay equivalent in the drinks the roots are separated a cava on its home soil is that it tastesworld could be, ‘The Spanish have cava; from the stem and dried fresher, leading to the suspicion that thethe Fijians love kava’. I’ve been in close in the sun. Then they are Spanish frequently export more lower-contact with both intoxicating liquors ground to a fine powder quality product and keep the better stuff forlately and it’s been an interesting journey and mixed with water to themselves. Or maybe the crackling energyon both counts. Back in my uni days, like the required strength. of Barcelona or the sophisticated ambiencemany others, I used to drink cava mainly Any coarse pieces are of Madrid just make you feel that you’rebecause that old stalwart Freixenet Cordon strained out. Most tourists drinking a higher-quality wine. That said,Negro was the cheapest sparkling wine to Fiji, however, partake of this even with the vast scale of production, cavaaround. My experiences with kava, on essential part of local life via a is made using the traditional sparkling winethe other hand, have been random and traditional ceremony when visiting method with the second, bubble-birthingfar apart and it always takes three bilos a village where the time-honoured fermentation taking place in the bottle, not(the traditional coconut shells it is served method is presided over by the ratu chief). cavernous tanks. Another furphy to dispelin) to overcome the feeling that I am not The best of three ceremonies I attended in is that cava is a generic term. It’s actuallydrinking brackish water. Fiji was part of the award-winning Sigatoka an official designation even though the wine River Safari. Our guide presented the chief can be produced in nearly every Spanish Fijians use the word kava, a pan-Pacific with a gift of kava roots and the coolest young winemaking region. Most of the exportterm, when talking to tourists but among guy in the village - sporting dark shades and bottlings, though, come from Catalonia.themselves the proper name is yaqona and a designer polo shirt - prepared the kavano visitor to Fiji can escape a ceremony in a wooden bowl known as a tanoa and With Spanish wines skyrocketing ininvolving its preparation and imbibing at then served it in wooden bilos to all present popularity in Australia and the US, it’s goodsome stage during their stay. You wouldn’t according to rank. Following a spirited to know that cava is joining the movementwant to, either. The Fijians are among the rendition of What a Friend We Have in Jesus, to better quality. My St-Paul-on-the-road-to-most engaging of all peoples and their the Fijians reverted to their pre-Christian Damascus moment arrived in Seville, whenpleasure in sharing the drink they also call selves and led all the visitors in an energetic I was served a Gramona Gran Reserva‘grog’ is almost tangible. bout of hip-swivelling dancing. After downing Brut Natur III Lustros. If I hadn’t seen the two bowls of kava in the traditional way- a bottle, I would have mistaken the toasty, Kava is not alcoholic, though. Its popularity single gulp - I felt amazingly mellow as our biscuity flavour for a vintage champagne.stems from its mild narcotic qualities but guide put the speedboat through three It wasn’t cheap at $80 a bottle and norit’s far from being a natural form of crack; 360-degree spins on our return journey. should it have been. Even that loyal friendyou would have to drink enough to sink a of the impecunious - Freixenet - is in onvillage over an extended period to become There’s one quality that kava and cava the act with light, refreshing cavas suchaddicted or experience an out-of-body state. share, though - inconsistency. Spanish as Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad NV.But a bilo or two does produce an almost producers keep their sparkling wine cheap Still a straightforward drop but with a veryinstant numbing of the tongue and lips and by producing and shipping millions of intriguing floral and citrus tang perfect foryou start to feel a sense of gentle relaxation in bottles a year and the rock-bottom priced springtime drinking.mind and body. So much so that, like me, you versions are notable for two virtues -don’t need much persuasion to get up and coldness and bubbles. They offer littledance with the locals at the first invitation, competition to a good sekt, prosecco orinstead of saying no at least five times. any other non-champagne sparkler. As with whisky, there’s a lot of preparation A lot of cava’s simplicity and directness caninvolved in the preparation of kava, and terroir be traced to the grapes used - parellada,matters, too. It’s made from the roots of a shrub macabeo and xarel-lo - which offer aspecially cultivated for the purpose, and a completely different taste from sparklingthree-year growing period and rich organic wines made from pinot noir and chardonnay.soil are the first two requirements for top-quality In Spain, however, an increasing amount ofkava. Harvesting methods are also important chardonnay is being used in better-qualityand the plant must be removed from the soil cavas and that’s why I have revised mywith minimal damage to the fine roots that opinion of the wine in recent years.contain the mother lode of the active agent.n e x t i s s u e : Beautiful bubblies in the form of Champagne and sparkling, plus delicious pinot noir and summer beers. Also, the regions of North-East Victoria, Limestone Coast and Canterbury & Otago (NZ).162 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2010

TheHEDONIST by Walter Clappiso6 ShirazJames Halliday 93 points!This famous winecrops up in all thebest places...Poured on British Airways Business ClassHas been served at the table of Sachin Tendulkar,one of the best batsman who ever livedNobu, Mayfair (UK)Nobu, New York (USA)Blue Hill, New York (USA) - Where PresidentObama had his Inauguration DinnerRetailersFassina Liquor (SA)Cellarbrations – Tappy’s at The Hub (SA)Cellarbrations Blackwood (SA)St Peter’s Cellars (SA)The Arkaba (SA)Ocean Grove Cellars (Vic)Cloud Wine Cellars (Vic)Best Cellars (NSW)IGA Ainslie (ACT)Waitrose (UK)www.hedonistwines.com.auPh: +61 8 8323 8818

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