Winestate Magazine November December 2015

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE Pinot NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015 WINESTATE VOL 38 ISSUE 6 Perfection The never ending quest 169 TASTED Creating the perfect BUBBLE Riding the Rollercoaster The highs & lows of the Hunter November/December 2015 Vol 38 Issue 6 CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING PINOT NOIR HAWKES BAY , NZ NORTH EAST VICTORIA LIMESTONE COAST HUNTER $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Pinot Noir Champagne & Sparkling Best Value Buys Under $20 North East Victoria Hunter Valley Limestone Coast Hawkes Bay (NZ) PRINT POST APPROVED 100003663

GWD A1 Mag Ad AUG15-5 OL.indd 1 2/09/2015 11:01 am

GWD A1 Mag Ad AUG15-5 OL.indd 1 2/09/2015 11:01 am

DEUTZ 210x297 SS Mention Ciel etoile:deutz 25/06/15 11:50 Page1 DE VISU-REIMS

“Rated highly by all judges.” NO.272 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Lisa McPike E: [email protected] Marketing Manager Peter Jackson E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator Madeline Willoughby E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Peter Jackson, Winestate Publications Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Cecile Nogier - Buenos Aires - France Phone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.fr DISTRIBUTORS Australia Gordon and Gotch Australia P/L International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. 162 Hamilton Rd, Warkworth, New Zealand Copyright 2015 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic Ph +64 9 425 0306 / [email protected] medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. www.mahurangiriver.co.nz Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au November/December 2015 WINES TATE 5

contents NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015 FEATURES REGULARS 26 Best of the Bay 10 Briefs Hawke’s Bay sets a standard 20 European Report with Sally Easton for New Zealand wine, writes Michael Cooper in his regional 22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley profile. The nation’s second- 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King largest wine region is home to 32 25 Wine History with Valmai Hankel 75 producers who operate some of the oldest wineries in the 42 Grapevine country. Its sensational sauvignon 32 Creating the perfect bubble 47 Wine Words blancs, mainly from the dominant An adherence to tradition and 50 What’s it Worth? Marlborough region, have built a a skilful understanding of the global following, while merlot and sparkling winemaking process 52 Wine Investment & Collecting chardonnay are the other major are vital ingredients in producing 101 Subscription Form varieties. fine champagne, says Tyson 138 Aftertaste Stelzer. And of all the winemaking processes, sparkling production is among the industry’s most complex and time consuming, WINE T A S TINGS while Champagne’s “methode traditionnelle” is the ultimate 58 Pinot Noir 26 sparkling winemaking process. 64 Champagne & Sparkling 76 Limestone Coast 36 Riding the rollercoaster 28 Malbec delivers a global shift While the Australian wine industry 86 Hunter Valley It took just over 10 years for might have got its start in the 98 North East Victoria the Argentine wine industry to Hunter, boom-and-bust cycles 104 Hawkes Bay, NZ overcome French dominance of have haunted the region, reports the malbec market and establish Dan Traucki. As recently as the 112 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases Mendoza as the global leader, 1990s, it all started going “pear reports Winsor Dobbin. The shift shaped” again. But there is light has also sparked a renewed on the horizon, as Winestate’s interest in malbec in Australia, annual regional tasting uncovered the UK and North America. There some super semillon and shiraz, is also an understanding in while chardonnay, tempranillo, Argentina that blockbuster styles gewurztraminer and pinotage are out of favour and that reds viognier are also in the mix. with balance and less oak are the way of the future. 38 Searching for pinot perfection The little French favourite pinot grape continues to fire the imagination in the world of wine. 28 Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, ponders pinot’s ability to ignite passion among its devotees and the role the French play in shaping the grape’s future direction. 120 New Releases and One bully who won’t intimidate. Best Value Buys under $20. Winestate Magazine Our Limited Release 2014 ‘Bully’ Shiraz, full of character and oozing with style. Issue Number 272 November/December 2015 For a complete list of what we tasted for this Cellar Door & Vigneron Villa. 141 Onkaparinga Valley Road, Woodside, South Australia. Cover photograph issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Alexlukin Telephone 08 8389 7706 / barristersblock.com.au /barristersblockwines PREMIUM WINES 6 WINES TATE November/December 2015 BB201509030-bully-winestate-210x297-FA.indd 1 4/09/2015 5:52 pm

One bully who won’t intimidate. Our Limited Release 2014 ‘Bully’ Shiraz, full of character and oozing with style. Cellar Door & Vigneron Villa. 141 Onkaparinga Valley Road, Woodside, South Australia. Telephone 08 8389 7706 / barristersblock.com.au /barristersblockwines PREMIUM WINES BB201509030-bully-winestate-210x297-FA.indd 1 4/09/2015 5:52 pm



editorial ANOTHER YEAR OF JUDGING the ethereal variety that both disappoints, confuses and ultimately delights the consumer - pinot noir. In its red form pinot offers some great alternative aromas and flavours (and often lighter colours) than the usual suspects in the form of shiraz or cabernet varieties. It can give you beetroot or rhubarb overtones that you don’t see in other wines along with raspberry or strawberry and herbs that you might see in some others. When overdone pinot becomes darker in colour and loses its varietal definition, becoming a dry red, closer to a shiraz in style than a cabernet. At its finest it is silky, aromatic and finely textured, with a steely backbone, a true “iron fist in a velvet glove”. For our white version we have to move to the world of bubbles where champagne and other sparkling wines have the prominent pinot grape variety as their backbone for brut (dry) styles. Here we have the free run juice or very lightly pressed pinot grapes (colour comes from the skins) to produce what appears to be straw coloured or lightly copper tinged bubbly wine. Hence the French term - blanc de noir (grapes). A rosé bubbly simply has a little more pressings to offer up a touch of, well, rosé! Where only chardonnay is used we have blanc de blanc - white from white (grapes). To give you more information on these matters we are pleased to have Master of Wine, Peter Scudamore - Smith, wax lyrical on pinot noir as a red grape varietal, while champagne specialist, Tyson Stelzer, passes on all you need to know in a basic article on bubbles. For our Australian regional tastings this issue we have about as wide a variety as you could possibly get, from the outstanding semillons, chardonnays and verdelhos of the Hunter Valley to cool-climate cabernets and shiraz wines of Coonawarra and the Limestone Coast, to the world-class fortifieds, big reds and Mediterranean varietals of North-East Victoria. Then a New Release tasting rounds out the latest wines from elsewhere, also worthy of your attention. For New Zealand, Michael Cooper and his team offer up our annual tasting from arguably New Zealand’s most versatile region, Hawke’s Bay, where both reds and whites excel, along with Michael’s own tasting of the finest Kiwi new releases coming up. All in all another big issue of wines critically judged by peer winemakers and other experts. As we say at Winestate, if you get recommended by any of our three judge panels you have earned it! Cheers, Major Sponsors and Supporters November/December 2015 WINES TATE 9

briefs KITCHEN CONNECTIONS FIRST RELEASE OAKRIDGE Wines in the Yarra Valley has signed up innovative PHILIP RICH is known as wine retailer, wine writer and show judge, chef Matt Stone to head up a new-look kitchen brigade, and his but now he is also a wine producer. The Rich family has been partner Jo Barrett will be sous chef. farming at Walkerville, in South Gippsland, for over 45 years, mainly Stone, one of the major drivers of sustainable dining, unveiled a producing lamb and beef. They planted a vineyard in 2006 and new menu in September to complement David Bicknell’s award- have just released their first wine, the Walkerville Vineyard 2013 winning wines. The pair spent several weeks exploring the Yarra Pinot Noir. “With no neighbour to ask how to deal with the different to find the best local producers. “We wanted to spend the first conditions it has been a steep learning curve that is ongoing, yet six weeks or so getting to know the Yarra Valley,” Stone says. has created an enthusiasm to apply the knowledge learned to The pair plan a kitchen garden and a menu of mostly regional future vineyards that are now in the planning stages,” says Jacques produce. Oakridge is at 864 Maroondah Hwy, Coldstream; phone Rich, Philip’s father. “Since we planted the vineyard we have had (03) 9738 9900. every type of season thrown at us. Initially we started with droughts and within a couple of years weather conditions delivered two WINES FOR YOU AND ME consecutive summers of the highest rainfall in South Gippsland on record. Sub-soil drainage has had to be adapted, as have the ONE of Australia’s largest wine producers, Australian Vintage, has launched a new range of wines under the YOU label, and the brand trellis systems, all in the pursuit of creating an environment that is firmly aimed at the Gen Y market. The colourfully packaged allows the vines to have the greatest opportunity to produce quality range features four wines - a pinot grigio, chardonnay, shiraz fruit regardless of the weather conditions that the seasons may and cabernet sauvignon - all with a recommended retail price of and will present. In Sandro Mosele (ex Kooyong), we’ve found a $12.99. The release follows research into generational aspirations, winemaker who we’ve managed to interest and engage, and who leading to the creation of a wine brand designed for the digital is prepared to work with us in the emerging South Gippsland wine generation. “The launch of YOU Wines is a result of our deepening region.” Only 220 dozen bottles were made of the 2013 wine, which understanding of consumer behaviour and segmentation,” says is the first wine to be released commercially. general manager Cameron Ferguson. “We’ve challenged our business to be responsive, listen to the needs of our retail partners TASTING TIMES and bring genuine innovation to the wine category. It’s fair to say PUDDLEDUCK Vineyard in Tasmania’s Coal River Valley has unique that the wine category has to date failed to take advantage of its selling points - you can only buy the wines from its cellar door, or natural fit with Gen Y consumers, lagging behind the beer, cider online, and you may be greeted by a tame duck on your arrival. and RTD categories. We recognised this market gap and set Puddleduck owners Darren and Jackie Brown recently unveiled about creating a brand from the bottom up that is backed by solid a $550,000 makeover of their tasting facility, complete with a consumer research and insights.” playground and a beautiful deck on the dam overlooking their 10 WINES TATE November/December 2015

briefs TASTE OF HISTORY SAMUEL Smith and Son has added a new beverage with an interesting history to its portfolio. English wine company Berry Bros & Rudd has given the company full rights to The King’s Ginger, a liqueur specifically formulated by Berry Bros in 1903 for King Edward VII. Described as “rich and zesty”, the liqueur was created to stimulate His Majesty after morning vines. The boutique producers now offer a range of tasting options rides in his new horseless carriage - a Daimler and plan weekend music sessions on the deck during summer. The - and is said to be “popular with bon viveurs”. couple reflected on the changes to the wine industry in Tasmania In recent years The King’s Ginger has grown since they opened their first cellar door a decade ago. “We never in popularity, primarily consumed neat on the dreamed 10 years ago that we would become so popular,” said rocks or as a cocktail ingredient. Jackie Brown. “Our renovations have been necessary to cater for the increasing number of visitors to our door each year during this A NEW DAWN exciting time for wine tourism in Tasmania.” Visitors pay $5 for a tasting (refundable on the purchase of a bottle), or can opt for a IT might seem a little presumptuous to call your new Tasmanian wine structured sit-down tasting (with a cheese platter if requested), brand Domaine Dawnelle when you do not yet have a domaine, but using premium Plumm glasses. This year marks Darren Brown’s viticulturist and winemaker Michael O’Brien has that fact in hand. A domaine is defined as a vineyard that makes and bottles wine 30th year of working in the Tasmanian wine industry. When he from its own grapes. The first release under the Domaine Dawnelle started in the industry at Moorilla Estate he was 17. “There were label is a 2013 pinot noir which O’Brien has sourced from the only eight vineyards in Tasmania and the state crush was 120 Tinderbox vineyard, where he has contract managed the vines for tonnes,” he recalls. The Browns started Puddleduck in 1997 after three years. O’Brien describes the concept as “vineyard designate” they purchased a 6ha property in Richmond. What started as a and he will obtain fruit for future vintages not only from Tinderbox part-time job for one now employs the equivalent of six full-time but also from Elsewhere in the Huon Valley, and other sources of staff, plus vineyard dog Polly and Lucky the duck. Puddleduck quality fruit. A vineyard-designated wine is one produced from the wines can only be purchased at the cellar door or online, and product of a single vineyard, with that vineyard’s name appearing can only be found on one wine list - at Henry’s at the Henry Jones on the wine label. It is a concept that is popular in both Burgundy Hotel in Hobart, where Darren’s daughter is the maitre d’. It is a and California. But there will eventually be a domaine, or home formula that has enjoyed great success, so much so that several vineyard. O’Brien has planted pinot, chardonnay and riesling vines hectares of new vines have been planted in the hillside overlooking at Granton, north of Hobart, and has more in the pipeline, next to the cellar door. www.puddleduck.com.au. Laurel Bank, where he will eventually have a winery and cellar wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history. Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 November/December 2015 WINES TATE 11

briefs door if he gets planning permission. In the meantime, while his own vines mature, he is attempting to source the best fruit he can. He currently makes his wines at Moorilla Estate, where he stores his barrels. O’Brien previously worked at Stefano Lubiana and in Oregon, among other places, before starting his own viticultural consultancy. “My point of difference is that I look after the vines and am hands-on all the way through the process,” he says. “Any wine I make is all my work and I will focus on the site rather than winemaking influence.” Dawnelle, incidentally, is the name of an old family farm. See www.domainedawnelle.com. COMING HOME VETERAN Australian wine industry figure Chris Hancock has released his first wines under the Hancock & Hancock label, a CELEBRATING WITH ‘SPARKLERS’ partnership with his brother John, based at their McLaren Vale, South Australian, vineyard La Colline. The pair of red wines TASMANIA’S emergence as a producer of some of the world’s best comprises a shiraz grenache and cabernet touriga from the 2014 sparkling wines will be celebrated this month at Effervescence vintage. Having graduated in oenology at Roseworthy Agricultural Tasmania 2015. Tetsuya Wakuda will be the guest chef for the College in 1963 (as dux), Hancock worked for the Penfold family official Welcome Dinner on Friday, November 13, and the event, with Max Schubert, initially as a winemaker, before taking up billed as a celebration of Tasmania’s best sparkling wines, seafood senior production and executive roles, producing a number of and local produce, will run through to November 15. The sparkling early vintages of Grange at Magill. He is currently the deputy producers featured at Effervescence Tasmania are by invitation executive chairman of Robert Oatley Vineyards, having joined the only and the inaugural event in 2014 was attended by over 700 Oatley family at Rosemount Estate in 1976. With a desire to return wine enthusiasts over two days. The venue is Josef Chromy Wines, to their South Australian roots, the Hancocks purchased the La located 15 minutes from Launceston in Tasmania’s north. Chief Colline property in 2007. Situated on Chalk Hill Rd just north-east winemaker Jeremy Dineen says: “We are pleased once again to of the McLaren Vale township, it is planted to shiraz and cabernet work with our colleagues to showcase some of Tasmania’s best sauvignon, with vine ages from 15 to 80 years. During the 1990s producers and discuss the quality, complexity and diversity of it supplied fruit for the Eileen Hardy project, including the 1994 sparkling wine from Tasmania.” Masterclasses will feature some vintage Jimmy Watson Trophy winner. “My first experience in of Australia’s leading sparkling winemakers, including Dr Andrew McLaren Vale was in 1962, when as a student winemaker I worked Pirie (Apogee), Ed Carr (House of Arras), Louisa Rose (Jansz) a vintage in the region,” Hancock recalls. “That would become for and Loic Le Calvez (Clover Hill). The event is also supported me a lifelong attraction for the country side of the Southern Vales.” by two of Tasmania’s iconic food producers, with masterclasses The Hancock & Hancock Shiraz Grenache and Cabernet Touriga from Bruny Island Cheese and Huon Aquaculture. Visit www. retail for around $24. effervescencetasmania.com. 12 WINES TATE November/December 2015

briefs ANNUAL TASTINGS TASTING Australia, the previously biennial celebration of South Australian wine and food, will be an annual event from 2016. Organisers hope gourmets and wine enthusiasts from around the world will make their way to Adelaide and surrounding areas from May 1-8 next year to indulge in a program that will feature everything from coastal seafood feasts to wine masterclasses. Traditionally held as a biennial event since its inception in 1997, the success of Tasting Australia (which really should be called Tasting South Australia) has triggered demand for the festival to evolve COMMEMORATING MAX into an annual event. The event is billed as “a journey through South Australia’s best produce from the hands of authentic food PENFOLDS has released a new premium wine to commemorate producers and chefs, celebrated by food heroes”. The last event, Max Schubert, legendary former chief winemaker and Grange in 2014, attracted about 50,000 people to over 80 events across creator. Max Schubert AM was Penfolds chief winemaker from the state, and each focused on “origins” by exploring the legacy 1948-1975 and a pivotal figure in Penfolds history. This year marks and roots of South Australia’s food and wine culture, honouring the 100th anniversary of his birth. The new Max Schubert Cabernet the history and personalities behind the culinary experiences. Shiraz continues the Penfolds philosophy of multi-regional blending The same creative team as in 2014 will remain at the helm of the - and it is available under screw cap, unlike Grange. “It personifies festival in 2016. Simon Bryant, a celebrated local chef, and wine a wine style that Max championed well over half a century ago,” expert Paul Henry will remain as the event’s creative directors, while says Penfolds.The debut release is a blend of 61 per cent cabernet Barossa foodie Maggie Beer is the event patron. “Plans for the 2016 sauvignon and 39 per cent shiraz from the Barossa Valley and festival are on track and we can’t wait to share the program with Coonawarra, and will retail for $450. Penfolds envisage it will be everyone over the coming months,” Bryant said. “We are excited long lived, with a tasting window until 2045. “Max, of course, is and want everyone who comes to eat, drink and celebrate with us one of the most revered in our history, a remarkable man who to know the importance that a sense of place, history and culture had an immeasurable impact not only on Penfolds, but the entire has in forming South Australia’s renowned food and wine identity.” Australian wine industry,” Penfolds says. From the 2013 vintage The 2016 Tasting Australia event will highlight South Australia’s there will be a shiraz and a shiraz cabernet blend under a slightly food and wine touring route - The Epicurean Way - the gastronomic different “Max” label. Penfolds says that over time other wines will journey that takes visitors on a self-drive adventure around four of be added to the range at different tier levels. South Australia’s premier wine regions. Visit Tasting Australia at Fewer than 500 cases of the first release were made and Penfolds www.tastingaustralia.com.au. says the wine needs a double decant before service. Hey mate, we are in the running for Terrific! wine of the year That red sure has great legs 2013 Picker’s Choice 4 ½ Stars. Contender – Wine of the Year under $20.00 Hastwell & Lightfoot Vineyards [email protected] November/December 2015 WINES TATE 13

briefs BACK TO THE BEGINNNG VETERAN South Australian winemaker Brian Croser is back in the Piccadilly Valley winery he built from 1978 for Petaluma. It is now called the Tapanappa Winery. “I remembered how to ride the bike and the 37-year-old Tapanappa Winery performed in its superbly functional way allowing us to elicit the best from our fine 2015 vintage fruit,” Croser says. The Croser family recently purchased the Tapanappa shares of Bollinger and the Cazes family of Bordeaux, so Tapanappa is now 100 per cent owned by the Croser family, with the brand managed by Croser’s daughter Lucy Bizot and her husband Xavier Bizot. Further news is that having avoided for 37 years having a cellar door at the winery site, Tapanappa has created a cellar door at the winery at 15 Spring Gully Rd. Con Moshos, fresh from a stint as chief winemaker at Mountadam, is back running the winery operations, having started at Petaluma in 1980. MASTER STROKE FORMER MasterChef finalist Ben Milbourne has been named as the brand ambassador for Taltarni Vineyards and Clover Hill Wines. Since being a finalist on the 2012 series, Milbourne has put his chemistry teaching career on hold to release two cookbooks, travel the world filming food exploits with MasterChef mate Andy Allen, host his own TV show, Ben’s Menu, for which he has been short-listed for a Logie, and conduct tours of Tasmania’s north- west coast. Tasmanian-born Milbourne said: “It is an honour to be the brand ambassador for Clover Hill, a boutique Tasmanian sparkling house that crafts some of the country’s finest methode- traditionnelle sparklings, as well as Taltarni Vineyards, one of the founding wineries of Victoria’s beautiful Pyrenees region. Both wine and food have played such an important part in the significant moments throughout my life.” As part of Milbourne’s ambassadorial CHANGING OF THE GUARD role he will be the celebrity chef at all of Taltarni’s upcoming Cellar Key Club events. He will also be creating tantalising recipes to IT IS all change at Qantas when it comes to wine selection. For the past decade all the wines served on Qantas flights and in the complement all of Taltarni’s and Clover Hill’s wines. Clover Hill airline’s lounges have been selected by an esteemed panel -Tom Wines and Taltarni Vineyards are run by the same management Carson (Yabby Lake), Vanya Cullen (Cullen Wines) and Steve team, led by CEO Adam Torpy. Pannell (SC Pannell). It was widely considered to be one of the best selection panels in the world, but Qantas recently announced that the trio was to make way for a new wine and cocktail program to be run by a team of sommeliers and mixologists employed by star chef Neil Perry and his Rockpool Group. Perry, who has been the culinary advisor to Qantas for closing in on two decades, believes that one group selecting food and accompanying beverages will better serve the flying public. The new team, named The Qantas Rockpool Sommeliers, features no fewer than 16 experienced sommeliers and mixologists. Among the group are the head of Sommeliers Australia, David Lawler, and Sebastian Crowther, one of only two Master Sommeliers in Australia, as well as head bartenders from Rockpool restaurants around the country. The Rockpool Group team will also be involved in training Qantas staff. 14 WINES TATE November/December 2015

briefs LUXURY AT ITS HEART Blass Award for his contribution to the development of riesling in Australia in 2003. In 2004, he took out the prestigious Maurice SYDNEY’S Sofitel Wentworth Hotel has been something of a fixture O’Shea Award for his outstanding contribution to the Australian for almost 50 years. The property is an iconic luxury hotel in the wine industry. heart of the Sydney CBD (you can walk just about anywhere from here) with 436 rooms and suites. The site has been host to a hotel since 1854 and the current edifice was built in 1966 and was the HUNTER first five-star hotel in Sydney. In 2002, Accor became the new MOVE FOR operators of the hotel, which has hosted royalty and big-name STURGESS rock stars. It is also a hotel with a commitment to fine wine with its annual Wine Days celebrations featuring tastings and degustation KATE STURGESS, dinners among other events. The Sofitel Wentworth Hotel, 61- regarded as one 101 Phillip St, Sydney; phone (02) 9228 9188. www.sofitel.com/ of Australia’s most SydneyWentworth. talented young winemakers, joined the team at Hunter ‘PEAL’ ADDED CAREER LUSTRE V alley-based Brokenwood Wines GUENTER PRASS, a giant of the Australian wine industry whose in August. Sturgess completed her Bachelor of Viticulture and contribution helped changed the nation’s taste buds for the better, Oenology degree at University of Adelaide in 2011 and joins has died. He was aged 88. Prass began his career in Germany and Brokenwood from Balnaves of Coonawarra. Her experience worked in Europe before arriving in Australia and joining Orlando extends through a number of Australian wine regions as well as Wines in 1955 as a winemaker. The following year he was involved a stint at Culmina Estate, Okanagan Valley, Canada, in 2012. In in the creation of Barossa Pearl, a gently fizzy, semi-sweet blend Australia, she gained experience at Wirra Wirra, De Iuliis Wines of riesling and semillon, launched in time for the 1956 Melbourne and Mount Langi Ghiran before moving to Coonawarra. Olympics. The wine, based on a style very familiar to Prass, a “With the appointment of Stuart Hordern as senior winemaker, German-style perlwein, was such a success that Orlando had we were looking for an enthusiastic, qualified winemaker to assist trouble keeping up with demand. Barossa Pearl went on to break in all aspects of the Brokenwood winemaking operation,” says sales records and help wean Australians off fortified wines. Prass general manager Iain Riggs. “Kate has shown a passion for the worked at Orlando until 1988 before moving on to other Barossa wine industry, including cellar work, laboratory, public relations and Valley stalwarts Thomas Hardy and Sons and Barossa Valley Estate. wine show judging. I have no doubt Kate will be a great asset to He was made an Order of Australia in 1990, won the inaugural Wolf Brokenwood as we head to our 44th vintage in 2016 and beyond.” November/December 2015 WINES TATE 15

briefs HICKIN BOWS OUT AFTER 40 years with the same company, Bernard Hickin has announced his retirement as chief winemaker for Pernod Ricard (which includes Jacob’s Creek and the former Orlando brands). Hickin joined the business (then known as G Gramp & Sons) in 1976, the same year as the Jacob’s Creek label officially launched. Throughout his 40 years in winemaking, Hickin has been responsible for several major innovations, including moves to sparkling wine production and varietal labelling. He was appointed chief winemaker of Australian brands in 2006 and then Jacob’s Creek global chief winemaker in 2010. Brett McKinnon, global operations director for Pernod Ricard, paid tribute to Hickin’s commitment. “We are extremely grateful for the contribution that Bernard has made towards our success,” he said. “He will be missed by the team and we wish him all the FOCUS ON WOMEN very best for his retirement.” Hickin will be succeeded by Ben Bryant, a young Australian THE inaugural Australian Women in Wine Awards has been winemaker who joined Pernod Ricard Winemakers (then launched, with some of this country’s leading women in Orlando Wines) in 2000. He has since held a number of key wine backing the initiative aimed at raising the profile and winemaking, operational, marketing and brand development acknowledging contribution of women in the industry. Award positions, including chief winemaker for Wyndham Estate. “I wining winemakers Sam Connew, of Stargazer, Jenny Houghton, have inherited not only a world-class brand in Jacob’s Creek, of Maygar’s Hill and Corrina Wright, of Oliver’s Taranga have but a world-class team of passionate winemakers who have joined with The Fabulous Ladies’ Wine Society founder Jane worked tirelessly to make the brand what it is today - and I look Thomson as organisers of the awards. “For decades we’ve been forward to joining them on the next stage of the journey,” Bryant wishing and hoping to see a significant rise in gender diversity said. Hickin will remain with Pernod Ricard until June 2016 and in the Australian wine industry,” says Thomson. “Unfortunately, will assist with the transition and focus on various winemaking wishing alone hasn’t worked. Current estimates put female projects within the company portfolio. participation at around 8 to 10 per cent and some areas like viticulture are actually in decline. The wine industry needs positive female role models and leaders. With these awards CHANGING OF THE GUARD we hope to highlight a few more of them.” The awards, with VINTAGE 2016 at two high profile Victorian wineries will see new categories including Winemaker of the Year, Viticulturist of the hands guiding the harvest. Chardonnay and pinot noir specialist Year, Owner/Operator of the Year and Workplace Champion par excellence, Sandro Mosele, has left long-time employer of Change will be announced in November. Details from www. Port Phillip Estate and Kooyong on the Mornington Peninsula. womeninwineawards.com.au. A quiet mountain of a man who prefers to let his wines do the talking, Mosele has been instrumental in the fine-tuning of both RISING STARS OF INDUSTRY varieties since he started at Port Phillip Estate (PPE) in 1996. While at PPE he was also headhunted as a contract maker for THE future leaders of the Australian wine industry - 15 rising big stars like the Heathcote-based wine ventures by Italian wine stars - have been announced. The young men and women have man Alberto Antonini and French maker Alain Graillot. Mosele is been drawn from all sectors of the grape growing, winemaking, now a partner in the Melbourne-based wine importing business, marketing and retailing industries across all states, with some Euan McKay Wine Merchant. Glen Hayley, who has been at names including Angela Brown (All Saints Estate), Sam Barry Port Phillip Estate for six years, moves into the position of chief (Jim Barry Wines), Nigel Blieschke (Peter Lehmann Wines), winemaker. Meanwhile, at Sutton Grange in Central Victoria, the Christian Dal Zotto (Dal Zotto Wines) and Stuart Hordern winemaker who helped put the winery on the map has departed (Brokenwood Wines). for a solo career. French-born Gilles Lapalus chose Bastille Day “Future leaders is about ensuring the next generation has the (July 14) to announce his own “small revolution”. “I would like to support and skills necessary to lead the way,” said Winemakers’ thank everyone who has made these 14 years a special moment Federation of Australia chief executive Paul Evans. “There is a in my life,” he said in his farewell letter to friends. Lapalus is critical need for the innovation and fresh thinking in decision about to set up his own consultancy, Maison Lapalus, and will making.” Applicants were judged for their open, creative, continue making MaiDENii vermouth using Australian botanicals. inquisitive minds, leadership potential and demonstrated But first there is vintage in Burgundy to work. Seppelt Great commitment to the Australian wine industry. They will undergo Western winemaker, Melanie Chester, steps in to fill his shoes at a six-month program aimed at challenging them professionally Sutton Grange. and personally. 16 WINES TATE November/December 2015

Winner of Winestate Wine of the Year Award 2014

nz briefs what’s happening on the NZ wine scene MARLBOROUGH MERGER HIGHFIELD Terravin is a marriage of two Marlborough producers - Highfield, well-known for its dramatic, Tuscan-style observation tower and TerraVin, the source of classy, boldly flavoured, hill- grown pinot noirs. Owned principally by Pinot Investments LP, the new company is directed by Peter Coldwell (general manager) and winemaker Alistair Soper. Pinot Investments is owned by wealthy pinot noir lovers, mostly in India, the UK and New Zealand. “Highfield has an iconic winery, with two smaller vineyards,” says Coldwell, who has worked previously at Pask and Seresin. “TerraVin VILLA MARIA APPOINTS NEW CHIEF has a unique hillside vineyard, but no winery. Combining the two WINEMAKER creates something very special.” Coldwell, Soper (winemaker at Highfield since 1999), Gary Watt and Gordon Ritchie (TerraVin’s NICK PICONE, 35, is the new chief winemaker of the Villa Maria Group. After 18 years with the company, Picone will oversee all winemaker) are all minor shareholders. Highfield was put on the market in 2014, following the death of co-owner Tom Tenuwera. of the group’s winemaking, including its Villa Maria, Vidal, Esk Valley, Te Awa, Thornbury, Riverstone and Wise Owl brands. TerraVin, established by Mike and Jo Eaton, first attracted investment from Pinot Investments LP in 2011. Villa Maria founder, Sir George Fistonich, says Picone is “an extremely talented winemaker with an exceptional palate...” Raised PETER YEALANDS SELLS MAJORITY STAKE in Hawke’s Bay, where he joined Esk Valley, Picone moved to Marlborough and later Auckland, but is now back living in Hawke’s YEALANDS Wine Group, one of NZ’s largest wine exporters, Bay while commuting on a weekly basis to Auckland. He has is now controlled by Marlborough Lines, a local electricity worked vintages in California and Barolo, and has won a string of network owner and supplier, with over 24,000 customers in the “young winemaker of the year” and “winemaker of the year” awards. region. Marlborough Lines paid $NZ89 million for an 80 per cent A regular panellist for Winestate, Picone describes his role as shareholding in the company founded by Peter Yealands, who “essentially co-ordinating the winemaking over the whole group - processed his first vintage in 2008. Peter Yealands said he is working closely alongside the winemakers in terms of styles and pleased to keep the company in local hands and looks forward qualities”. to “getting out from behind my desk more often, so that I can again develop more vineyards...” Yealands Wine Group owns LESS KIWI WINE IN 2015 more than 1100ha of vineyards in Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay, wineries in both regions and numerous brands, notably Yealands, NEW ZEALAND wine will be scarcer following the 2015 grape Peter Yealands, Crossroads and The Crossings. “It’s a bloody big harvest of 326,000 tonnes - 27 per cent down on the huge business for a one-man band and I’m getting older,” says Yealands, 2014 crop of 445,000 tonnes. Philip Gregan, chief executive of who is in his late 60s. “But I have a desire to stay here. I love what New Zealand Winegrowers, predicts a shortage of 2015 wines, I do.” CEO Jason Judkins will also have a stake. especially Marlborough sauvignon blanc, while others forecast rising prices. Amidst all the talk of the heavy production drop, it’s SAUVIGNON BLANC GETS THE CHOP easy to forget that 2014 was a mammoth harvest, nearly 30 per cent bigger than the previous record set in 2013. In fact, the size MURDOCH James Estate, a long-established Martinborough of the 2015 harvest is about average for the period 2010-2015. producer, has uprooted 10ha of sauvignon blanc vines, to be replaced with pinot noir. Cool spring weather, including late frosts in November, reduced Founded in 1986, Murdoch James has over 40ha of vines in grape yields. Waipara (down 53 per cent) and Auckland (down 41 the region and a winery on an elevated site, 8km south-west of per cent) were the worst hit regions; in Marlborough, the harvest Martinborough town. “This is not a decision for the faint-hearted,” was 29 per cent smaller than in 2014. Around the country, volumes observes founder Roger Fraser. The company’s decision to uproot of the two key varieties, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir, dropped sauvignon blanc came after Murdoch James’ recent acquisition of by about 30 per cent. Richard Riddiford, until recently managing Alana Estate (since renamed Luna Estate). More than 25,000 vines director of Palliser Estate, has a positive view of the production fall. are being replaced, at a cost of over $NZ300,000. Using land with “We’ve had two bumper years and this should bring the supply- prime potential for pinot noir for growing sauvignon blanc grapes demand balance back into line,” he said. Sam Glaetzer, managing did not make sense, says Fraser. “The consumer will pay a premium director of Constellation Brands NZ, predicted prices would rise. for quality pinot noir, but not for sauvignon blanc.” 18 WINES TATE November/December 2015

Whether it’s down the road or across the globe - we move freight globally, worry free. With real global capability, an ever-intensifying network and aggressive growth targets, we are well-positioned to help our customers get increasing volumes of their products into the hands of their customers. YOUR PRODUCT DELIVERED MAINFREIGHT BULK TAKE YOUR PRODUCTS TO AROUND THE GLOBE LIQUIDS THE WORLD From source to destination with road, We understand the quality and With two thirds of Australian wine sea and airfreight services. demands of wine and spirits reaching products now being sent overseas, the shelves on time. LCL groupage consolidation, FCL & wine producers are finding that to buyer consolidation for inbound and We use food grade tanks specific for expand their business means taking outbound movements. the industry. These tanks are not used that step to exporting. With product for any movements other than wine and certification, more complex timeframes Our customs brokerage teams manage spirits to ensure the strictest of hygiene and every country having unique government requirements to get your importing requirements, Mainfreight wines in and out of the most dynamic standards. can help navigate through the complex economies in the world in the time Both ISO tanks and flexi tanks are international market. frames expected. available. facebook.com/mainfreight @Mainfreight in linkedin.com/company/mainfreight www.mainfreight.com Wine Advert July 2015.indd 1 20/07/2015 1:43:13 PM

eur opean report WORDS SALLY EASTON MW NOD OF APPROVAL FOR HISTORICAL SITES AFTER several years of campaigning (and settlement and cultivation - paths, walls, d’Orcia, Langhe Roero and Moferrato progress reporting here), both Burgundy enclosures (monopoles) and cabottes in Piedmont, all in Italy; the Pico Island and Champagne have had aspects of their (vineyard huts). vineyard culture, the Alto Douro and being enshrined in UNESCO cultural world As part of the education process, a new Oporto, all in Portugal; and the Lavaux heritage sites. Cite des Vins de Bourgogne is planned to vineyard terraces of Switzerland. It kind It’s taken since the end of 2006 for the open in 2018, which will be a focal point, of begs the question, does anywhere climats, terroirs of Burgundy to be listed. not just for the climats in the Cote d’Or, but in Australia yet have a long enough, or More specifically the slopes of the Cote for the whole of Burgundy. well-established enough wine heritage to de Beaune and Cote de Nuits of the A little further north in Champagne, consider a UNESCO application? What Cote d’Or, running 50km south of Dijon to the hillsides, houses and cellars have might make a good listing - the heartland Maranges have been listed. The criteria been listed, fulfilling the UNESCO criteria of the Barossa Valley as an early settlement addressed include the cultural tradition, of German pioneers, perhaps, with an traditional human settlement and land use, enduring and recognisable wine style? Or and human interaction with environment. Does anywhere in the globally unique style of muscats from Included are the town of Beaune as the Rutherglen? commercial centre and the historic centre Australia yet have a In other European news, the English of Dijon, as regulator of the climats. wine industry continues to garner growing The listing says: “the site is an outstanding long enough, or well- repute. But let’s keep perspective here. The example of grape cultivation and wine English industry has similarities to Tasmania production developed since the High established enough wine (so if Tasmania were a country …). The total Middle Ages” (AD1000 to AD1300). heritage to consider a vineyard area in the UK is 1900ha, virtually Monasterial linkage of the vineyards to the the same as Tasmania. Both Tasmania abbeys of Cluny (Benedictine, founded UNESCO application? and the UK are cool climate, and both are 910) and Citeaux (Cistercian, founded developing highly respectable sparkling 1098) are cited as the inaugurators of the wine sectors. The main grape varieties in first climats. The Dukes of Burgundy, power- of cultural tradition and outstanding the UK are the classic champagne ones - housed in Dijon, subsequently oversaw the architecture. Here, again, only a tiny bit of chardonnay and pinot noir account for 40 development and management of the sites Champagne has been listed: first, some per cent of the plantings. In Tasmania, it’s in their time - for about 100 years from about of the most historic vineyard areas around even higher at about 65 per cent. 1360. It was one of these dukes - Philip the Hautvilliers (immediately north of Epernay), Unsurprisingly, given these data, it is Bold - who banned gamay on his lands. Ay (immediately east of Epernay) and sparkling wine, traditionally made, that What exactly are these climats, because Mareuil-sur-Ay (next to Ay). Second and is spearheading the drive to growing 1247 of them on the Cote d’Or are listed third, the cellars and buildings - famous domestic and international reputation. for heritage status? Climats are delineated houses/cellars of famous brands - at the hill The tipping point came for the English plots of land, which have specific geological of Saint-Nicaise in Reims and the Avenue sparkling wine sector in 2010. That year and climatic conditions. One of the first de Champagne in Epernay. This epi-centre saw production destined for sparkling wine climats to be documented was Clos de of Champagne, says the world heritage exceed production of still wine (table wine) Beze in Gevrey, in the 7th century. And it list, represents the “development of a very for the first time. And in the less than five is these long-documented sites that are specialised artisan activity that has become years since, sparkling wine has grown to the bedrock of the modern Burgundian an agro-industrial enterprise”. account for two-thirds of production. Given appellations of the 1930s. The National These areas of Burgundy and Champagne that there’s typically a two-three-year (plus) Institute for Origins and Quality (INAO), join a growing selection of wine-related lag between harvest and release to market which governs French appellations, used UNESCO heritage sites: Austria’s Wachau; due to the production process, including the names of the climats in the appellations. the jurisdiction of St Emilion, the Loire Valley time on lees, some forecasts anticipate Thus the climats are pretty much the between Sully-sur-Loire and Chalonnes, around 5 million bottles of English sparkling premier crus and grand crus appellations Bordeaux – Port of the Moon, all in France; wine may be on the market by 2018. Just to of today, and the landscape bustles with the upper middle Rhine Valley in Germany; put this tiny scale into context, the annual reminders of this long tradition of human Tokaj in Hungary; San Gimignano, Val production of champagne is somewhere 20 WINES TATE November/December 2015

GANTLEYS REST AURANT around 330 million bottles. Relatively, though, that’s still a huge growth for a tiny industry. The UK has gone from a niche, hobbyist, somewhat parochial and purely domestic market to a niche, increasingly professional one needing to export, especially given the growth targets of key producers. Exports are beginning, and English sparkling wines can be found in more than a dozen export markets. Established producers such as Ridgeview (sparkling) and Chapel Down (still and sparkling) both have ambitions to double production. And there is much anticipation for Rathfinny, a shiny new vineyard and winery, which will be the biggest estate in England, at about 160ha. Its first vines were planted in 2012. Its first sparkling release is anticipated in 2017 and the owner already knows he needs to export 50 per cent of his targeted one-million-bottle production of sparkling wine. With such rapid expansion, tentative comparisons are made from time to time with New Zealand - rapid expansion from a tiny base, the spectre of overproduction (relative to diminutive size) and where to find additional sales. You can almost imagine the Champenois waiting to see if it all comes together for the Brits, or if there might be bargains down the road. There have long been rumours about Champagne producers nosing around the South Downs, where most of the vineyards for sparkling fruit are located, looking to make small scale expansionist manoeuvres, but so far, GANTLEYS RESTAURANT they remain only rumours. Queenstown, New Zealand P: +64 3 442 8999 | F: +64 3 442 7007 E: [email protected] www.gantleys.co.nz LOWBURN FERRY WINES Central Otago, New Zealand P: +64 3 445 0846 E: [email protected] www.lowburnferry.co.nz November/December 2015 WINES TATE 21

wine t utor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY IT’S COOL TO BE HOT TASMANIA is hot property at the moment, high cropping year where the weather was But even here it differs by site. The layout not climatically speaking, but as an industry cool until harvest when it got hot. 11,000 of the Freycinet Vineyard, for instance, is and in the market place. As opposed to tonnes of grapes were picked off 1538ha a type of amphitheatre facing north and the mainland, new vineyards are being of vines. Compare this to 2014 when there north-east, which acts as a suntrap. A planted and winemakers are packing their was a poor flowering that resulted in low stone’s throw away is the Devils Corner bags and moving south. A decade and yields. While the plantings went up on the vineyard. With a stunning vista it is in more a half ago, you could have counted the island to 1611ha the tonnage was a paltry open country and can be up to 3C cooler, winemakers on one hand, and while there 6624. Bad weather during flowering causes according to Radenti. East Coast vineyards are still many wines being made by contract what is known as “hens and chickens” or ripen at different times over a three- week winemakers, the number of DIY vignerons millerandage, which is a poor fertilization of period. Site selection plays a big part in is growing. After saying all that, Tasmania the grape flower, and some berries do not determining the final wine style. still only accounts for roughly half of 1 per The soil and geology of Tasmania adds cent of the national crush, but according The 2014 pinots are another twist in the tale of pinot noir. This to Freycinet Vineyard winemaker Claudio has been explored in depth by Dr Richard Radenti it represents 6.2 per cent of all more concentrated which Doyle from the University of Tasmania. In wines on the nations wine lists. simple terms the Tamar Valley has clay The varietal mix in Tasmania has not is great for the consumer with some basalt as well as sedimentary dramatically changed, with chardonnay, material. Holm Oak, for instance, is on riesling and pinot gris being favoured for but a nightmare for the clay/sandy loam soils being located fairly the whites, and reds dominated by pinot close to the river. Pipers River has deeper noir (44 per cent of plantings), with the profitability of producers. red clay soils on top of volcanic basalt. To occasional chance being taken on ripening the south in the Derwent Valley the soils cabernet sauvignon. One change that develop correctly leading to lower yields. tend to be of sandstone. The most exciting has occurred is the increased interest in When you compare 2013 and 2014 wines soils for pinot noir are the vineyards that shiraz, probably as a result of Nick Glaetzer the effects are easy to see. The 2014 pinots sit on Jurassic dolerite, which formed as winning the Jimmy Watson Trophy in 2010 are more concentrated which is great the Australian continent broke away from for his Tasmanian Mon Pere Shiraz. for the consumer but a nightmare for the Antarctica. Dolerite is a type of basalt and The island is a complex and challenging profitability of producers. is found along the ridges of the East Coast place to grow grapes and make wine. Tasmania has distinctive climatic as well as Coal River Valley. Domaine A, You have a multitude of soil types as well bands, but surprisingly has only the Freycinet and Pooley Estate all have some as extremes of climate. These can be one Geographical Indication (GI). To dolerite in their vineyards. The soils tend to examined and we can use pinot noir as compensate for that the industry promotes be stony (allowing good drainage), shallow an example. seven unofficial sub-regions - North West, (so fairly poor) and warm as opposed to the Pinot Noir displays the skills of the North East (Pipers River), Tamar Valley, East colder, darker soils. On tasting, the dolerite viticulturist and winemaker, and provides Coast, Derwent Valley, Coal River Valley wines constantly display darker red fruits, them with the most challenging test of and the Huon Valley/ D’Entrecasteaux more depth and intensity. their ability. The ripening process has got Channel. In the north around the Tamar If only Tasmanian pinot could be to be spot-on, otherwise if picked under- Valley and inland at Pipers River the rainfall understood by soil and climate alone. We ripe the resulting wine is thin and diluted tends to be higher and is sometimes cooler now have to consider the clones being with herbaceous flavours. Flowering than the southern vineyards. Here pinot used. Pooley Estate in the Coal River Valley must be uniform and the summer has to noir is used often for sparkling wines. In has two pinot noir vineyards. Winemaker be moderate to warm, with preferably, a the Tamar the wetter and humid conditions Anna Pooley explains: “at the Cooinda long late Indian summer. Compare the can cause problems with botrytis and Vale vineyard we mostly have 114 and Tasmanian 2013 and 2014 vintages, for make growers pick earlier than they really 115 planted. Structurally they are quite instance. Across all varieties 2013 was a wish to. On the East Coast it is a lot dryer. different. 115 is more linear and has tighter 22 WINES TATE November/December 2015

tannins, whilst 114 is more aromatic. Our Butchers Hill vineyard is mostly MV6 and is more robust and aromatically plush”. Careful choice of oak cooperages, as well as maturation on skins post fermentation for up to two weeks “gives more structure and balance to the wines”, she adds. MV6 has been described as the “backbone of Australian plantings” and Penny Jones, winemaker at Bay of Fires, is able to keep various parcels separate so we can look at regional distinctions across the same clone. We tasted 2015 Coal River, Derwent Valley and East Coast barrel samples. The Derwent River wine was lighter and more delicate, while East Coast showed more spice and floral notes. Finally, the Coal River Valley showed more cherry primary fruit and gentle tannins. We also tasted separate barrels of 114, 115 and MV6, and it confirmed Pooley’s remarks. The MV6 definitely has more rich and spice notes, while the 115 is lighter in style than 114 and the latter has fruitier notes. At Freycinet, Radenti has a majority of D5V12 clone. This clone grows “upright” and is cheekily referred to as the Viagra clone. This clone has served Freycinet well and I recently tried an incredible 1994 pinot that still displayed some hints of primary fruit. As well as making age-worthy pinot, Radenti is also unique in using a rotary fermenter to ferment his pinot, something Yorke Peninsula’s the others don’t do. As British author and wine expert Hugh award winning Johnson classically remarked: “pinot noir, vineyard like riesling, is a lens that brings the soil into focus. It captures soil, climate and vintage weather, and reveals them without mercy”. He might well have been talking about Tasmania pinot. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 23

wine tra v el WORDS ELISABETH KING IT’S A LIFE OF LUXURY ON THE SURF CIRCUIT SURFING is a lifelong passion, not just a the hip bar, massage therapist, jacuzzi and spots are accessible only by boat. passing youthful enthusiasm. But when pool. As befits a surf town, Peniche has an If you’re brave enough that’s where you’re pulling in a good wage, drive a incredible night-time scene from beach you’ll also find the iconic Cloudbreak, prestige car and your favourite drink is a bars such as Bar do Bruno to a clutch of but experienced surfers can also tackle single malt Scotch, the traditional cliches seriously trendy restaurants serving food Namotu Lefts and Restaurants. Tadrai has of a surfing holiday - campervans, fatty as upmarket as their decor - The Base, a couples-only policy and boasts only five, burgers and lumpy mattresses - are as Mirandum Marisquira and Pro Fresco. For 100sqm beachfront villas circled by four appealing as a warm beer. CEOs and those who want to combine a trip to Douro, white sand beaches. Apart from being a millionaires now demand luxury resorts the port-making centre of Portugal is just luxury surf and romance base, the resort’s or boats to get tubed and a new breed under 500km away on the A23. other aquatic activities include hard-line of specialist properties has emerged Essaouira hogs the limelight as Morocco’s fishing, snorkelling, hobycat sailing and combining style and comfort with world- major surf town but the former fishing deciding what to select from the upscale famous breaks. village of Taghazout runs a close second. wine list. Exclusivity is the pull at Adaaran Select Exclusivity is the pull at Adaaran Select Hudhuranfushi Hudhuranfushi in The Maldives, one of the most famous dedicated surf resorts in the in The Maldives, one of the most famous dedicated world. There’s a perfect left - Lohis - just metres from each beach and ocean villa surf resorts in the world. and the resort offers daily excursions by dhoni (the traditional local boat) to other Chicama is the world’s longest left, Paradis Plage Surf Yoga & Spa Resort is major breaks in North Male. A top choice stretching out for 4km. But there are 30 located 26km north of Agadir – equi-distant for intermediate and advanced surfers other major waves in northern Peru as the from Killers and Boilers - and in-house Rip who congregate in the Lohis Bar at day’s big lows travel up from the south. Named Curl instructors keep a weather eye on end, voted one of the best hotel bars in after the coastline’s most famous surfing major waves. A 3ha oasis fronting a 5km- the Maldives. Equally popular is the Hyala attraction, Chicama Boutique Hotel & Spa long beach, the resort’s surf school offers Bar near the main pool. Love buffets? offers rates as low as $700 for seven days. packages for beginners and experienced You’ll find one of the best in the Banyan General manager Miguel Vegas is a former sliders, an outdoor movie theatre and Restaurant, which specialises in top-flight Peruvian surfing champion so all bases fitness centre. Non-surfers can take part seafood and an equally impressive wine are covered - tow back services, wetsuit in a yoga retreat and or enjoy Moroccan- list with strong French connections. and board hire, lessons and daily tours to inspired treatments in the spa or on the Shaloha Guesthouse on Supertubes in pre-Colombian pyramids and cities and beach. Be careful in the bar - drinks are South Africa includes the world famous major surf spots. The gourmet restaurant expensive - because alcohol isn’t sold in right-hand point break in its name. There’s has spectacular ocean views. Enjoy sunset the village. For a vibrant restaurant and no need to bring a thing, surfboard, wet cocktails made with the best Peruvian Pisco bar scene, you have to drive to Agadir, suit and boogie board rental and ample brandy and select from an international nicknamed the “Miami of Morocco”, where storage for long and short boards are all wine list that includes Peruvian bottlings the main promenade is lined with beach at hand. The patio is only 50m from the from Tarbernero sparkling to Tacama whites bars, clubs, casinos and hotels. beach at Jeffreys Bay, known to fans as and reds. Forget the fly-and-flop image of Fiji. JBay, and the views are spectacular. The You’ll book a flight to Lisbon the minute The island chain also offers more than 25 rates - from $142 for a large suite with after watching the video on Surfers Lodge major surf spots, including Lighthouse, floor-to-ceiling windows - are a giveaway Peniche’s website featuring former Swedish Cloudbreak and Vinakaland where only for a five-star atmosphere and service. surf champ/owner John Malmqvist spelling pros or those just shy of making surfing their Amazing breakfasts and you can also out his life’s dream. The small town of daytime job should test their wave skills. organise horse riding on the beach or a Peniche offers 17 major Atlantic Ocean The Tadrai Island Resort is the most talked- visit to Bloukraans for the world’s highest swells, including Supertubos - a.k.a. the about five-star resort on the Mamanucas - a bungee jump. More than 30 restaurants European Pipeline. Laid-back luxury is the group of 20 islets west of the main island offer plenty of enticement from gourmet keynote from the organic restaurant through of Viti Levu - where many of the major surf to pub grub. 24 WINES TATE November/December 2015

wine histor y WORDS VALMAI HANKEL ANDRE SIMON VISITS NEW ZEALAND - PART ONE THE early versions of the itinerary for seemed surprised to be met by a barrage of Simon was surprised to see some 200 Frenchman Andre Simon’s visit to the newspaper photographers and reporters, people, including cabinet ministers, MPs Antipodes did not include New Zealand, “who appeared to take a far greater interest and senior public servants, as well as all with more time being allotted to New South in my visit to New Zealand than I had ever the local winegrowers. Some were there Wales and Victoria. But Simon complained imagined to be really necessary”. It was doubtless to see Simon; others to enjoy, as to the Australian organisers that he wanted midnight before he reached the home of Simon noted, “a monster barbecue, nine to go there especially to see his old friend, his host and guide in NZ, Frank Thorpy. lambs in a row spitted over the smouldering Frank Thorpy, Auckland Wine and Food The long day must have been tiring for the embers of a great fire”. All the wines were Society president. In a letter Simon wrote octogenarian, but not too tiring to prevent from Henderson vineyards and if Simon in October 1963 to his main contact in the two men from demolishing a bottle of tasted any he does not tell us. There were Australia, Victor Gibson, he mentions that 1952 GH Mumm Cordon Rouge before many speeches through which Simon had he had forgotten to tell Victor that he had going to bed at 1am. to stay awake. One in particular stayed in promised to visit “our New Zealand friends”. his memory: the Anglican parson of the So, on February 5, 1964, Rudy Komon, one Simon was surprised Henderson church told Simon that he had of Simon’s Sydney hosts, drove him to the two books by his bedside - the Holy Bible, Sydney airport, where they had a farewell to see some 200 and Simon’s own classic, The Art of Good cold beer. Living. That evening was spent much more While we know that Simon tasted many people, including cabinet quietly, with Thorpy and a “kind-hearted Australian wines before arriving in Australia and gifted lady friend”, who had prepared in December 1963, he admits that his ministers, MPs and and cooked the meal. Again, Simon first taste of NZ wine was on the plane was very taken with the soup, made that during its flight from Sydney to Auckland. senior public servants, morning from fresh toheroa, “the aristocrat The wine was Corban’s Palomino Flor of New Zealand shellfish… in appearance Sherry, sampled with “caviar canapes” as as well as all the local a cross between a huge cockle and a large part of a “very tempting plateau of hors mussel”. He scorned “ignorant cooks who d’oeuvre”. In an article, New Zealand winegrowers. sometimes cut off and throw away the holiday in the Wine and Food magazine toheroa’s green beard, which gives the (winter, 1964 edition), he simply records As in Australia, Simon had a hectic soup its colour and some of its flavour”. the fact and offers no opinion of the wine. schedule. He spent his first full day in NZ With this wonderful soup the three drank This was typical of Simon - if he couldn’t at the Henderson Viticultural Association a bottle of 1953 Schloss Vollrads, one of find something complimentary to say annual field day and barbecue. Henderson, the world’s great rieslings, which Simon about a wine, he would say nothing at a suburb of Auckland, was described at the considered “absolutely admirable”. The all. “A full-scale dinner was served, and time as NZ’s most important vine growing exceptionally well served, \" with the toheroa and winemaking district, the home of main course was coq au vin, accompanied (a NZ shellfish) soup being a highlight. Corban’s Wine Estate Vineyards. Today, its by two red burgundies, both shipped by To accompany this delicacy, which was best-known names are probably Corbans Louis Latour - a 1953 Clos Vougeot which followed by duckling, Simon chose two and Babich. Simon and Thorpy visited the Simon thought was “rather dull” (a rare French wines - a 1954 Louis Latour winery of George Mazuran, the association’s negative comment) and an “excellent” Chevalier Montrachet, followed by a 1955 president, renowned for his fortified wines. 1952 Vosne Romanee. The dessert was Charles Heidsieck, thereby eschewing the Interestingly, like Seppeltsfield in the pavlova, another of Simon’s new-found NZ wines also on offer. With coffee Simon Barossa Valley, Mazuran has offered visitors culinary delights; the accompanying wine was offered a large selection of liqueurs, a taste of a port from their birth year, but was a 1947 Chateau Yquem which, with but chose a cognac, a Martell Cordon only back to the 1940s. Next stop was at the Schloss Vollrads, was the wine of the Bleu. On arriving at Auckland airport Simon the winery of the Ivicevich family, where evening. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 25

the Bay Michael Henley, chair of Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers, “because we offer them something different from the rest of NZ. We are able to show them where the NZ industry has come from, as we have some of the oldest wineries in the country, but we are also able to show them some of NZ’s most exciting red wines”. Hawke’s Bay has nearly 14 per cent of New Zealand’s total area of bearing vineyards. Merlot (22 per cent), chardonnay (21 per cent) and sauvignon blanc (19 per cent) are the principal grape varieties, followed by pinot gris (9 per cent) and syrah (7 per cent). Its bordeaux-style reds MICHAEL COOPER are highly acclaimed, so it must surprise many to learn that pinot noir (which A NEW logo was unveiled recently by suits the region’s relatively cool, upland Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers, depicting the areas, especially Central Hawke’s Bay) is fast-running rivers - notably the Tutaekuri, more extensively planted than cabernet Ngarururo and Tukituki - which flow from sauvignon (now confined largely to the the mountains to the sea. Lying on the east Gimblett Gravels and Havelock North). coast of the central North Island, Hawke’s A map circulated recently at a Hawke’s Bay is New Zealand’s second-largest wine Bay Hot Reds promotion identified 12 sub- region, home to 75 producers. regions, from Te Awanga and Esk River on Marlborough, the dominant region, is the coast to the Crownthorpe Terraces and known globally for its leap-out-of-the glass Mangatahi Terraces inland. Some argue sauvignon blancs, first produced in 1979. that the existence of so many sub-regions Wine lovers are drawn to the Bay, says does not help in the marketing arena. 26 WINES TATE November/December 2015

With so much variety of wine styles and geography, it is sometimes difficult to identify exactly what the Hawke’s Bay story is. Gordon Russell, winemaker at Esk climates and free-draining soils that require Lowe, of Monowai Estate, “but we’ve joked Valley, also chairs the Gimblett Gravels irrigation. about it being its best-kept secret”. Here, Winegrowers Association. Russell believes While the 800ha of the Gimblett Gravels the cool, high altitude terraces and flats the Gimblett Gravels “story” (about stony, are almost fully planted in vines, the Bridge are best suited to early ripening varieties. free-draining soils reducing vine vigour Pa Triangle, which Corban believes yields Delegat’s, owner of the Oyster Bay brand, and high summer temperatures helping “more aromatic, less tannic” reds, has has 350ha of vineyards at Crownthorpe, the grapes to achieve ripe, concentrated 2700ha of vineyards, orchards and grazing mostly planted in merlot and chardonnay. flavours), is easy to understand. land. The company recently paid $NZ29.3 “The Hawke’s Bay brand on the other The Bridge Pa Festival in January is million for another 838ha of farmland at hand is very diverse, in a lot of respects, a good opportunity to taste the wines. Crownthorpe, with the potential to yield a maybe too diverse. We sometimes feel Eight producers attended this year - further 500,000 cases of wine. there is more currency in Gimblett Gravels Abbey Cellars, Alpha Domus, Ash Ridge, “How to grow the Hawke’s Bay wine than there is in Hawke’s Bay as a brand... Ngatarawa, Paritua, Triangle Cellars, industry - just add water,” suggested a recent With so much variety of wine styles and Salvare and Sileni. Chris Wilcock, of Ash article in Wine Hawke’s Bay magazine. The geography, it is sometimes difficult to Ridge, points out that the top trophies at Ruataniwha Dam, a proposed $NZ600 identify exactly what the Hawke’s Bay the regional Hawke’s Bay Wine Awards million water storage project in Central story is.” 2014 were all awarded to wines from the Hawke’s Bay, championed by the regional The latest labels on Trinity Hill’s upmarket Bridge Pa Triangle. council, is likely to go ahead, although range of $NZ35 varietal wines all boldly Big company investment is pouring into many farmers are refusing to sign up for the identify their origin in the Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay. Villa Maria will build a new water, saying it will be too costly. “There’s 25,000ha of irrigable land in while there is no mention of Hawke’s Bay winery at Te Awa designed to reduce the Central Hawke’s Bay,\" says Xan Harding, on the front labels. transport time for grapes, a crucial factor deputy chair of Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers. Two prominent sub-regions are the in difficult vintages. Villa Maria has 400ha “That’s five times the size of the Hawke’s Gimblett Gravels and the Bridge Pa of vineyards within 10km of the Te Awa site Bay wine industry. Much of it is light soils Triangle, adjacent to each other in what was near Hastings. perfect for quality grape growing.” once known as the Hastings Dry Belt. Alwyn Inland, the adjacent Matapiro and Corban, co-founder of the Ngatarawa Crownthorpe districts form “probably winery, in the Bridge Pa Triangle, notes the second biggest winegrowing area in Above: Elephant Hill, Te Awanga. that the two districts have very similar Hawke’s Bay”, says winemaker Emma Opposite page: Elephant Hill barrel cellar and wine library. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 27

Argentina MALBEC continues DELIVERS to bask in the growing A GLOBAL reputation of its malbec SHIFT wines. 28 WINES TATE November/December 2015

Above: Mendoza Wine museum at Trapiche wines. Right: Mendoza vineyards. Opposite page: Mendoza Urban at O Fournier exterior. WINSOR DOBBIN LOOK in just about any wine store or retail catalogue and you’ll find a range of When it comes to wine, Argentina has malbecs from Mendoza and other regions of Argentina. In Australia, Dan Murphy’s alone sells more than 20. realised that blockbuster styles are out In a little over a decade, Mendoza has usurped Cahors in France as the global of favour and that reds with balance and capital of malbec, and sparked a renewed interest in the Bordeaux grape variety not less oak are the way of the future. only in Australia, but also in the United Kingdom and North America. Drinkers are familiar with brands like There are over 200,000ha of vineyards in If you love good food and wine it is Zuccardi, Alto Las Hormigas, Kaiken, Finca Argentina and numbers are growing all the almost impossible not to have a good time Las Moras, Casarena, Trapiche, Pelleriti time, in line with demand. in Argentina. Susana Balbo, president of and Rutini, and know that the soft, rich While it is malbec which shines, there Wines of Argentine, describes the country and sometimes masculine reds made from is more to Argentina than just one grape as “a land of contrasts and contradictions”. malbec pair perfectly with red meat dishes. variety. Bonarda is another red grape Things might get a little chaotic, but no Mendoza, known as “the land of sun and matter where you go you are certain to good wine” is in the west of Argentina in variety that thrives, although it is something dine well, enjoy well-priced red wine and the foothills of the Andes – and this region of an acquired taste, while the French find a party. accounts for almost 80 per cent of all wine grape tannat also does well. Cabernet Buenos Aires, the capital, is one of production. sauvignon and cabernet franc do well, the most vibrant cities on the planet, a Its high altitude and dry, desert-like while pinot noir has been planted in promised land for meat lovers and red summer conditions provide the ideal Neuquen and Rio Negro in more southerly wine aficionados, with several barrios, or conditions for grape growing, and the Patagonia. Torrontes is the stand-out white suburbs, where eating and drinking appear region is blessed with pure water sourced grape variety, sourced mainly from Salta, to be the major activities. Among the liveliest from the mountains. Much of the water used Catamarca and Tucuman in the far north are San Telmo, Palermo Soho, Palermo in vineyard irrigation is melted snow. of the country, while La Rioja and San Hollywood and Las Canitas, although Grapes were first planted in Argentina by Juan, further south produce wines that most tourists find themselves based in Spanish Jesuits in the 1550s and vineyards offer great value, particularly from the La Recoleta, home of wide boulevards and now stretch from 22 to 42 degrees south. Riojana co-op. five-star hotels. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 29

30 WINES TATE November/December 2015

Opposite page: Buenos Aires Plaza, Buenos THE FACTS Aires Casa Rosada and Padthaway Buenos Aires celebrating World Malbec Day. Getting there: Air New Zealand will be flying to Buenos Aires three times weekly from Sydney via Auckland Mendoza, with its many squares and the service with tickets now on sale. The direct service will from December 1. A Boeing 777-200 aircraft will operate parks, is a “must visit” destination for lovers have a flight time of around 12 hours from Auckland, with an of hearty red wines, while Patagonia, to the intended code share arrangement with Aerolineas Argentinas south, offers a completely different vibe. providing convenient connections to regional Argentina. That is no surprise as Argentina is www.airnewzealand.com.au/flights-australia-to-buenos-aires. a land of immense diversity. From the Andes Mountains to the vast expanses of Where to stay: The fun and funky Hotel Fierro is the pampas to the deserts of Cuyo, the a five-minute walk from the nearest subway station and a landscape is constantly changing - and 20-minute drive from Buenos Aires city centre. Room rates that means you need to allow plenty of time start from around $A200 for single-night stays - excellent to explore. Argentina is the eighth-largest value. There is a good on-site restaurant and free and country in the world and the second-largest fast wifi. Hotel Fierro, Soler 5862, Buenos Aires; phone in South America behind Brazil. It is home +54 11 3220 6800. www.fierrohotel.com. The writer was a to Mount Aconcagua, which at 6960m guest of Wines of Argentina. www.winesofargentina.com. above sea level is the tallest mountain in the Americas. Next year marks 200 years since Argentina gained independence from Spain and the Spanish accent co-exists alongside a definite Italian ambience. Six million people from those two nations migrated to Argentina in the early 20th century. Whether you enjoy steaks that fill your steakhouse Don Julio, La Cabrera, La and the micro-climates are of paramount plate, spicy beef empanadas, blood Lechuza and La Brigada. I was taken by importance to vineyard and wine quality. sausages known as morcilla, chorizos the modern fusion food at UCO, in the Other names to look out for include wines or local specialities like milanesas (beef trendy Hotel Fierro in Palermo Hollywood, from Bodega Catena Zapata, Vina Cobos, fillet in bread crumbs) or lomitos (steak which has a fun wine list curated by Andres Finca El Origen, Norton, Bodega de Fin sandwiches), you have discovered Rosberg, one of Argentina’s leading del Mundo and Trivento. Some of the best carnivore heaven. The cows raised on the sommeliers. Also do not miss Floreria wines I tasted on my trip came from Bodega Argentine pampas produce some of the Atlantico, a subterranean cocktail and wine Del Rio Elorza in the Rio Negro region of finest beef in the world, best enjoyed at bar with a hipster vibe and great tapas that Patagonia, where young Agustin Lombroni one of the thousands of parrillas (traditional is a popular late-night hangout. is crafting wines of purity and personality, steakhouses). Offal dishes, known as In Mendoza, the star restaurant is Francis and at high-end Achaval-Ferrer at Lujan de achuras, are also popular. Mallmann 1884 at the Escorihuela Gascon Cuyo outside Mendoza. If you are not eating beef then pizza or winery, but late night sees locals head for Some of the most spectacular cellar pasta will probably be on the menu, but the many grill restaurants, bars and cafes doors and wine resorts are to be found Argentina and Uruguay are the top two on Avenida Aristides Villenueva. If you are in the Uco Valley. The Spanish-owned countries in the world in consumption of lucky you might get invited to an asado, O Fournier winery complex is a hi-tech meat per capita so it would be a pity not to a typical backyard barbecue, of the style architectural masterpiece with a superb sample lomo (tenderloin) or costillas (ribs). we enjoyed at Bodegas Humberto Canale restaurant, Urban, while no one should There might even be some salad on offer. in Patagonia. miss the Clos de Los Siete campus, with Don’t be surprised to find restaurants empty When it comes to wine, Argentina has the cellars of Monteviejo, Cuvelier de los (except for tourists) at 8pm or even 9pm. realised that blockbuster styles are out Andes, Bodegas Rolland and Bodegas Dinner, the main meal of the day, is usually of favour and that reds with balance DiamAndes. The Bodegas Salentein eaten between 10 and 11pm. and less oak are the way of the future. complex is also a major tourist drawcard. In Buenos Aires, restaurants Argentina is today a fixture among the Most of the wineries have tasting facilities recommended by the locals, known as top 10 wine producing countries. Its where English is spoken and visitors are Portenos, include Pura Tierra, which altitude and latitude, the presence of made welcome, or you can take organised specialises in traditional dishes, uber the Andes Mountains, the rainfall regime tours with the likes of Trout and Wine. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 31

Feature at Ruinart. 32 WINES TATE November/December 2015

Creating the perfect BUBBLE Bottling fine champagne requires skill and an adherence to tradition. TYSON STELZER SPARKLING winemaking is among the perform it twice to achieve particularly bottling, a liqueur de tirage of sugar and most complex, labour-intensive and time- exquisite and fresh cuvees (blends). wine is added so as to induce a secondary consuming winemaking processes of all. Following the first fermentation, sparkling fermentation in the bottle, known as the It begins with careful, selective harvesting wines from the coolest regions typically prise de mousse. Held under pressure by a and immediate, gentle pressing, capable undergo malolactic fermentation to crown seal or cork, the second fermentation of extracting white juice even from dark- convert tart malic (green apple) acidity produces carbon dioxide which remains skinned pinot noir and meunier grapes. into softer lactic (dairy) acidity. With the dissolved in the wine, creating sparkling The coeur de la cuvee, the heart or middle advent of warmer vintages in the wake of wine. of the pressing, yields the purest juice. The global warming, an increasing number of Following the second fermentation, tailles is the coarser, inferior juice that flows champagne houses are experimenting with sparkling wines mature in contact with last from the press. blocking malolactic. To create the finest sparkling wine, the Sparkling wine is blended following its the lees (dead yeast cells) to mellow, juice is settled prior to fermentation to allow first fermentation, and perhaps a period soften and build complexity, mouth feel the solids and impurities to fall from the of ageing on lees in tanks or barrels. and texture, a process called autolysis. In must (pressed grape juice), allowing clear Non-vintage wines are a blend of a base champagne, the mandatory minimum is 15 juice to be drawn off from the top. This (youngest) vintage with reserve wines, months for non-vintage and three years for process is called debourbage in French older vintages aged in the cellar in tanks vintage wines, but reputable houses always and the most fanatical champagne houses and sometimes barrels or bottles. Prior to far exceed these minimals. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 33

34 WINES TATE November/December 2015

A good riddler can turn some 60,000 bottles a day, but this is a dying art. Methode traditionnelle is the ultimate it from horizontal to upside down. A good achieved in one of three ways. Rosé sparkling winemaking process, mandatory riddler can turn some 60,000 bottles a day, d’assemblage is a blending method, the in champagne, in which the second but this is a dying art. In modern times, most common means of making rosé, fermentation to produce the bubbles riddling has been largely taken over by in which a tiny quantity of pinot noir or occurs in the bottle in which the wine is gyropalettes, giant robotic arms that slowly meunier made as table wine is added to sold. rotate large cages of bottles. the white base wine. The saignee method This process is often simplified in other After riddling, the sediment is settled on adds free-run juice from just-crushed red sparkling wine producing regions in the the inside of the cork or crown cap. The grapes, while a limited maceration method transfer method, in which the wine is neck of the bottle is then frozen, the cap produces darker, heavier wines through a transferred to a vat and filtered after the released and the plug of sediment shot out, quick soak on red grape skins. second fermentation, invariably losing leaving perfectly clear wine behind. This Sparkling red wines begin their life in the some gas. The charmat or tank method is process is called disgorgement. same manner as still reds, fermented on a further simplification in which the second To replace the volume lost through skins to extract colour, flavour and tannin. fermentation occurs in large tanks under disgorgement, the bottle is topped up with The finest are then privileged to methode pressure. Carbonation is the cheapest sweetened wine called liqueur d’expedition traditionnelle, though transfer, charmat or method of creating sparkling wine, by and a new cork is inserted. The sweetness carbonation simplifications are used for injecting the wine with carbon dioxide in of the finished wine is determined by the cheaper labels. the same manner as lemonade. level of sweetness of the liqueur. Zero Tyson Stelzer is the International Wine & Each of these simplifications tactically dosage sparkling wines are topped up with Spirit Communicator of the Year 2015 and avoids the most labour-intensive stages dry wine. In champagne, brut nature or brut the author of The Champagne Guide 2016- of methode traditionnelle - riddling and zero denote a wine of less than 3g/litre of 2017, released in October 2015. disgorgement. Second fermentation in sugar, extra brut (extra dry) less than 6g/ bottle creates sediment of lees, which litre, brut (dry) less than 12g/litre, extra dry must be removed without losing bubbles. or extra sec less than 17g/litre, sec (dryish) Top: (Left to right) Winemaker at Bereche, Taittinger Riddling is the process of moving this less than 32g/litre, demi-sec (half dry) less bottles, worker at Ayala. sediment into the neck of the bottle, than 50g/litre and doux (sweet) more than Bottom: (Left to right) Workers at Stephane Coquillette and pumping wine at Lassalle. traditionally achieved on a riddling rack 50g/litre. called a pupitre by giving each bottle a Sparkling rosé is made in the same CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING TASTING STARTS PAGE 64. quarter rotation every day and slowly tilting manner as white sparkling, with colour November/December 2015 WINES TATE 35

Riding the ROLLERCOASTER Haunted by boom-and-bust times, Roberts who planted “Belbourie” in 1964. the Hunter has much to recommend it This tiny trickle of new plantings/wineries flourished, with wineries like Hungerford as a premium wine producer. Hill established in 1967, Rothbury Estate (1968) by a consortium headed up by Len Evans and Brokenwood (1970) by a DAN TRAUCKI partnership including James Halliday. By the mid-1980s, when my wife and I spent AFTER a false start near the tank stream in challenges the young colony faced and our honeymoon at a little cottage in the Sydney, MacArthur’s Vineyard in Camden then, in 1901, Federation forced NSW Hunter, the floodgates had opened and Park and Gregory Blaxland making the first to remove the exorbitant tariffs it had there was a raft of wineries operating in recorded wine in the colony at Brush Farm previously levied on the wines from South the region. We discovered the wonderful on the banks of the Parramatta River, the Australia and Victoria. wines of Drayton’s, Allandale, Brokenwood, Australian wine industry really got going in In the first half of the 20th century demand Belbourie, Hungerford Hill, Marsh Estate, the Hunter Valley. was almost exclusively for fortified wines Mountview and Tulloch Wines. I was like a In the late 1820s, less than 40 years and, as a result, the big players in the kid in a candy store and I maxed out my after the colony of New South Wales Hunter such as Lindemans and McWilliams Bankcard (Can you remember Bankcard?). was established, the first vines arrived in developed vineyards in warmer climates In those days every bottle shop in the Hunter when James Busby planted to produce these fortified wines, and the Sydney carried McWilliams Elizabeth them at his property “Kirkton” between Hunter decline continued. By 1950 there “Riesling” (Semillon) and McWilliams Singleton and Braxton. In 1830 George were only eight wineries left operating in the Phillip Hermitage (Shiraz). Lindeman’s Wyndham planted vines from cuttings he Hunter. Most notably was McWilliams Mount Hunter wines were everywhere as well, got from Busby. Within two years there were Pleasant, with winemaker Maurice O’Shea being the “godfather” of the region, with its 10 vineyards established in the Hunter. until his death in 1956. O’Shea ranks as one perplexing Bin numbers. There was also the By the 1850s the Hunter vineyards had of Australia’s greatest winemakers. other Hunter heavy-hitter, Tyrrell’s, with its grown to 50 and covered 200ha. These In 1963, surgeon Max Lake bought a superb Vat range and the commercial Long vineyards were mainly in the northern end block of land in the Hunter and planted Flat range. Remember, it was Tyrrell’s that of the valley. Interestingly, vines did not cabernet sauvignon, which by that stage launched chardonnay in Australia. arrive in the Pokolbin/Broke area, which had completely disappeared from the In the 1990s, it all seemed to start going is now considered the heart of the Hunter Hunter. It was the tasting of a 30-year-old “pear shaped” for the Hunter. Wyndham until the 1860s. By its peak in 1876 there bottle of Dalwood Cabernet/Petit Verdot Estate was sold off to Pernod Ricard, were 1800ha of vines planted producing that had persuaded Lake into the folly of which eventually closed it down, vineyard 3.7 million litres of wine. From there it all planting vines, thus he called his winery investors moved into the area, significantly went downhill, first due to the economic “Lakes Folly”. He was followed by Jim increasing the area under vine with little or 36 WINES TATE November/December 2015

There were some cracker semillon and shiraz in the ROLLERCOASTER line-up. in the late 1980s when Lindemans moved out of its Nyrang St, Auburn, premises, and sold most, if not all its Hunter museum stock to Farmer Bros (another blast from the past) and one could buy stunningly magnificent mid-1960s Hunter whites for very reasonable prices - another occasion where my Bankcard got maxed out. Speaking of semillon, the Hunter continues to produce great semillon, with 27 of the 29 semillon submitted achieving at least a three-star rating. Two of the semillon even achieved the elusive five-star rating. Likewise, 13 of the 15 chardonnay submitted achieved at least a three-star rating. Appropriately for the region’s signature wine, the semillons generally achieved higher scores than the chardonnay. There was a very interesting fiano from Mistletoe Wines, which demonstrated that the variety should have a great future in the Hunter Valley. Turning to the reds; in the shiraz category no wine sales expertise and then, in the Hunter white on the shelf. Which, to me, there were only 16 wines of which 14 2000s Aussies started experimenting with is a sad sign of the times, as the Hunter achieved three stars or better, with three many more foreign wines. In 1990 imported makes really great whites, most of which achieving five stars, a worthy effort. I wines accounted for less than five per have the capacity to age for quite some thought that a couple, the Pokolbin Estate cent of wine sales in Australia, today they time and develop into luscious, rich, silky- 2011 Shiraz and Midnight’s Promise 2013 account for 23 to 25 per cent - that is a smooth wines that are world class and a Shiraz were really smashing. massive cultural shift. sheer joy to drink. The sole New England representative in I believe that like French wines, the This view was reinforced by my recent the line-up - Topper’s Mountain, showed that Hunter’s sales were based in part on visit to the Artisan Wine Storage complex it was doing great things with alternative aura and past reputation, which in this in Sydney, for the Winestate annual Hunter/ varieties, including a succulent, wild electronic/mass-media age has become New England wine review tasting. The ferment tempranillo, a couple of high- fairly well meaningless. standard of the wines was excellent, scoring gewurztraminer (remember this I think that the Hunter Valley has lost a with 80 out of the 87 entries judged variety? It was quite big in the 1980s) and bit of the swagger, confidence and magic achieving a three-star or better ranking its excellent, funky and probably unique it used to have, somewhat like Australian - a fantastic effort. There were some pinotage viognier. Pinotage is a cross wine has done in general in the more cracker semillon and shiraz in the line-up. between pinot noir and cinsaut, which established export markets. Hunter wines However, disappointingly, as I am a big incidentally is South Africa’s signature have become just another wine on the fan of verdelho, there were only seven variety. blurry, retail shelf rather than the focal point to be tasted. The quality of these wines So Hunter winemakers, it is time to that they used to be. was demonstrated by the fact that they all remind the drinking world of what great Today when you walk into an independent achieved at least three stars. wines you have to offer, or else you will bottle shop, let alone one of the big duopoly There were some greats in the line-up, be destined to repeat the rollercoaster stores, you are more likely to see New including Lindemans semillons, especially ride that the region has been on since it Zealand sauvignon blanc rather than a Reserve Bin 1350. I can remember back began making wine. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 37

Searching for Pinot perfection ~ The French favourite continues to ignite our passion ~ PETER SCUDAMORE-SMITH MW PINOT - the grape that part of the population followed similar concepts and there will get and that the rest do not care for. What be more. Pinot is all about passion every dichotomy. minute of the day. But when you look at all the world’s major Pinot producers never lack diversity red grape commerce, the same theory of thought. Enter the publicity-driven, holds true. hype-related pinot tasting jaunts to focus Our French cousins Expensive Napa cabernet is found in a on the grape. Most of the modern world warm environment, likewise the syrah of does it - Oregon, Mornington, Yarra, New rely on the production the northern Rhone. Of the great three it is Zealand (shared between Marlborough pinot which performs only when it has cold and Central Otago), and more recently the headstart they have feet. And only a slice of consumers take in Pinot Palooza. the differences. No mention of the Burgundian with this grape - about Pinot is the wine of the little maker; it likes participation here. They don’t really have an small batches, hand supervision, micro- entry point as European producers. A more 600 years since the vineyards, and can consequently be found established region like “La Bourgogne” in tiny quantities. I regularly smile, while on promotes other ways. clergy mixed prayer tour, at the single barrel purpose-sized for I am reminded of the quite extensive 180 litres of Le Musigny in the cellar of J public auctions held in the past one or two with the grape trade. Faiveley - taken off a few rows. years where a large brand and negociant There are many pinots out there to try; scour their cellar for a serial selection of Tasmania is becoming prolific because one vineyard wine, making an extensive they are good at it. selection of good aged or ageing vintages, Innovation is one idea in the heads of the and all from magnum. Then hold the event younger guns, who totally understand the in Hong Kong for the publicity, as the terroir principle, scouring mainstream pinot auction market in the smelly harbour city regions for parcels (read small vineyard is red-hot. pockets) with differing micro-climates. Note But wines from Burgundy find their way William Downie’s efforts; others have now into these events, possibly to set the 38 WINES TATE November/December 2015

benchmarks, but also for a hierarchy of reasons. Our French cousins rely on the production headstart they have with this grape - about 600 years since the clergy mixed prayer with the grape trade. Burgundy is at the heart of many New World makers’ minds because they have done work time in the region - there is a connection which never dies. Brands are invited to participate through personal relationship. And a collective philosophy holds that the region makes eternal drinks. And so the end result has one of two outcomes; Burgundian wines are presented in guided, often blind tastings, or a producer in the flesh is a guest speaker to explain his/her wines. Then the down sides start as a series of potential disappointments prevail. The burgundy comes closed with natural cork; the New World generally uses screwcap or taint-free cork. It is pretty normal for one or more burgundies to be severely affected by cork taint, therefore a good portion of participants fail to taste the wine as it has been ruled out as not fit for presentation. Also, there are other issues like wide bottle variation due to random oxidation from natural cork-closed wines. The pre- pouring scene is generally not a pleasing place to be found in advance of a grand pinot-comparing event. Burgundy bashing, though unintended, arises because of the stark evidence that the cork closure chosen by the responsible person has failed badly. The more polished tasting event will have a Burgundian winemaker present. Such was the case recently at a Yarra Valley soiree where some amazing revelations emerged. Beaune-based Benjamin Leroux (who also uses screwcaps) spoke pleasantly and carefully about the philosophy of pinot noir winemaking in his golden vineyards, the Cote d’Or. Leroux plainly stated that his genre of winemakers do not strive to expand, preserve or articulate the character of pinot noir. Moreso, the intention is to present a drinker with the best explanation and sensation of the terroir from where the grapes are grown, such as a vineyard blend of Chambolle-Musigny or Vosne-Romanee. Pinot noir varietal character is not the priority, whereas most Australians are there to preserve it, and wrap their production techniques around the variety as they see fit. The wine is always a pinot. In Beaune the wine is of origin from an appellation, and coincidentally pinot. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 39





melbourne grape vine HILARY McNEVIN ensuring the meal ebbs and flows between size, appearance and flavour. Expect the unexpected at Lume,” says Fiechtner. Believe him. 226 Coventry St, South Melbourne; phone (03) 9690 0142. St Urban, the bistro and wine bar on Swan St, Richmond, by the team from long- term CBD wine bar Punch Lane, opened in late July. Named after Saint Urban, who was Bishop of Langres in France during the fourth century and a patron saint of wine, Punch Lane owner Martin Pirc has gone into business with his head chef Daniel Schelbert and Schelbert’s partner and front-of-house manager Pia Tatjana-Tukiainen. The refurb, by interior designer Rabindra Naidoo, is a complete overhaul of what was the old school and very tired Italian restaurant, The Sicilian. MELBOURNIANS love their dumplings consultant Ben Knight. Knight has put Walls have been blasted back in parts and we have a feast of dumpling dens to some of the bigger wine names on the list and elegantly finished with waxed plaster choose from throughout the inner city and - St Hallett and Brown Brothers - but also in others; arched windows overlook Swan out to the suburbs. So when dumpling given a more detailed Victorian selection, St and worn woods and handmade blue giant Din Tai Fung announced it was including Jamsheed, Holly’s Garden tiles add warmth to the small 55-seater opening its first Melbourne store earlier and Farr Rising Pinot Noir. He’s included this year, heads were scratched. Did we some Victorian craft beers, too, including really need another dumpling restaurant? Spotswood’s Two Birds Brewing and Red It turns out we did. The large restaurant Hill Brewery Wheat Beer. that opened its original store in Tai Pei in Level 4, Emporium, 287 Lonsdale St, 1972 and has venues throughout Asia, Melbourne; phone (03) 9654 1876. with seven outlets in Sydney, has been A former burlesque lounge is now the feeding a frenzy of Melbourne-diners home of one of the more exciting restaurant since it steamed up the bamboo baskets openings of the year. Lume is the new in June. The 235-seater perched on the business of chefs Shaun Quade and dining room. Schelbert’s menu is “a fourth-level of CBD development Emporium John-Paul Fiechtner with sommelier simple bistro menu,” he says. There’ll be a has become renowned for dumplings of Sally Humble. There are two parts to reduced menu through the afternoon and mathematical precision. Each handmade the set-up, a 40-seat restaurant with an a “brunchy dish or two,” on weekends. He pastry made for the soupy Xiao Long 18 – 20-course tasting menu only, and a says there’ll be a constantly changing list Bao is weighed at 4.8 and 5.2g and then more approachable and flexible 40-seat of charcuterie and cheeses in the cabinet filled to a weight of 20.8 and 21.2g. The bar. The bar menu is all about produce- by the bar, oysters, croquettes, and he’s dumplings are then steamed for three driven dishes for sharing and an interesting enthused about the chargrill installed in the minutes and served immediately. They must cocktail list. Be prepared to commit for kitchen where he’ll be “grilling whole fish have good scales in the glassed-in kitchen, the evening if you take the degustation and bavette steaks with harissa”. The wine where customers can watch the delicate route of up to 20 courses and be ready to list is “broadly European and Australian,” handling of the restaurant empire’s bread have your perception challenged. A dish says Tatjana-Tukiainen and she plans to and butter. The menu serves Dumpling of cauliflower arrives looking just like a have up to 18 wines by the glass, “using Gems, colourful pastry with a variety of disc of camembert but oozes the earthy many small producers”. Pirc is excited to fillings, including seafood and garlic pork vegetable. Thinly sliced cow’s udder is open outside the CBD and says the goal and there are dishes other than dumplings, used in a mashup of corn and crab, and is to set up a place for locals to come in perhaps the silken tofu with pork floss or the a duck liver and quince dish is presented at any time of day, “for a coffee, a drink, a Shanghai drunken chicken. Din Tai Fung with the quince cooked to look like liver snack, a meal”. 213 Swan St, Richmond; Australia owner Dendy Harjanto wanted while the liver is ruby red like quince. phone (03) 8456 0933. to add a local element to the drinks list “The tasting menu will be unpredictable Left: St Urban interior. and employed the help of Melbourne wine - we want to play around with the palate, Right: Food from St Urban. 42 WINES TATE November/December 2015

adelaide grape vine NIGEL HOPKINS the Randall’s 1ha home garden in nearby that have made it even more appealing. Aldgate. Longer-term plans will see the One side of the restaurant is totally exposed kitchen relocated and expanded as both to the kitchen. Chalmers’ dishes are deck and function business grows. The contemporary in style yet classically based, central Granary room, the former Petaluma but they also reflect the current fashion for cellar door, is now open daily as a casual increasingly complex dishes. The apparent dining area - now named the Wine Lounge simplicity of his menu descriptions - such - where customers can order generous as Berkshire pig cheek with soy milk shared platters such as the Miller’s Lunch custard, miso mustard and seaweed - hides or just a glass of wine while enjoying good up to nine cooking processes taking days music and a wood fire while seated on to complete, starting with the pig cheek, comfy lounges or at a vast central table. which is rolled and braised for 12 hours In cooler weather diners have the option in red wine. The end result is incredibly of eating indoors in the slate-floored concentrated flavours, meltingly tender conservatory with linen-clad tables, but pig cheek offset by crunchy seaweed and on a fine day dining alfresco on the deck salty nori paste. (or decks) is unbeatable for sheer bucolic, Equally good are his Moreton Bay bugs if not gastronomic pleasure. Ronayne is a dusted in turmeric, coriander and smoked young but well-accomplished chef who paprika, quickly fried with a little pork lardo gives exciting touches to dishes such as and wrapped in tendrils of crisp kataifi rabbit terrine served with quail egg, capers pastry, then decorated with fat green and nasturtium leaves, scallops baked iceplant leaves, fingers of coastal sea LUNCH on the deck at the Bridgewater in their shell with Jerusalem artichoke, spray and finger lime pearls with a smear Mill on a fine spring or autumn day is hazelnut and rosemary, or twice-cooked of sweet Balinese-style saté sauce. Again, just about as good as it gets, refreshed duck leg with pear, miso and walnut a terrific mix of crunchy textures, colours by fine spray from the 155-year-old mill crumble. Adding to the good news is that and vivid flavours. Corner Melbourne and wheel. But major changes are now under for the first time in its history, the Mill will Jerningham streets, North Adelaide. Open way at this historic former flour mill in for lunch Sunday-Friday, dinner Monday- the Adelaide Hills, now part of the ever- be open for dinner Friday and Saturday Saturday; phone (08) 8367 0222. nights. 389 Mount Barker Rd, Bridgewater. expanding portfolio of wine entrepreneur It’s hard to keep up with the welter of new Warren Randall, whose love of iconic old Open for lunch Wednesday-Monday, dinner wine and cocktail bars opening almost Friday-Saturday; phone (08) 8339 3422. properties clearly didn’t stop with his earlier weekly in every long-neglected side street acquisition of Seppeltsfield. “As I get older Another historic property, North Adelaide’s in Adelaide, finally making up for the I appreciate these properties more and much-revered The Lion, has also taken on decades-long dearth of drinking spots in more; I love their heritage and provenance,” iconic status since being taken over by the city. says Randall, whose wife Nicolla has taken current owners Andrew Svencis and Tim While many are centred around the charge of a complete overhaul of the Mill’s Gregg almost 20 years ago. Svencis and Peel St-Leigh St area, some of the more renovation following Petaluma’s relocation Gregg were key figures in Adelaide’s earlier attractive wine bars are spread further to its new Woodside winery earlier this year. restaurant revolution in the late 1980s and afield around the city centre, with one of the The Mill was bought and renovated in 1986 ’90s, when their Oxford restaurant was a more attractive entrants being La Buvette by a consortium led by former Petaluma gastronomic leader. Since taking over The Drinkery. If ever a bar could ooze Gallic winemaker Brian Croser, and since then Lion in 1998 they’ve had only three exec charm without actually being in France, has operated as a cellar door and highly- chefs, the latest of whom, Jason Chalmers, this is it. Owner Dominique Lentz, many regarded restaurant. Now plans have been has been with them for almost eight years of the staff, much of the wine and all of the drawn up by architect Max Pritchard - who and now oversees a kitchen brigade of food are the real thing in what is one of the also designed the $3-million cellar door around 35 covering restaurant, bar and city’s prettiest bars. Blue tiling, exposed renovations at Seppeltsfield, with Fino function venues. Although surrounded by a brick and ancient wooden beams combine restaurant as its centrepiece - which will sprawling hotel complex, The Lion still feels with close tables and banquette seating to see the famed deck area expanded to three very much like a freestanding restaurant, create a setting that is so un-Adelaide that levels before the end of the year, doubling well insulated from the pub hubbub. What it’s no wonder the locals love it. Great wines its capacity for alfresco dining. Former once seemed a quite radical design has by the glass … and absinthe, of course. 27 Petaluma executive chef Zac Ronayne now mellowed as it’s gained some of Gresham St, Adelaide. Open Wednesday- remains in charge of the kitchen, which now the patina of a well-used restaurant, with Saturday from 4pm. sources much of its organic produce from booths, banquettes and intimate corners Above: The Lion restaurant. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 43

sy dne y grape vine ELISABETH KING WHEN a restaurant boasts 270 seats it needs to be popular from day one. Fortunately for the second outpost of the Lotus Restaurant & Dumpling Bar in The Galeries, the CBD dining and shopping enclave opposite the Queen Victoria Building, the first weeks were manic. But then the owner is Michael Jiang and the head chef is Chris Yan, ex-Billy Kwong eggplant - lightly battered and served with Asian tapas, sashimi, sushi, salads and and China Doll. Dumplings are a major honey and sesame. The overall feeling mains. We got stuck into the beef and magnet, nipped and tucked by Shanghai- is very much upmarket Hong Kong, with chive dumplings, billed as a Taiwanese born dumpling maestro, Lucy Lao, direct moreish cocktails such as Chai Gin Toddy, masterpiece, and finger fish dumplings from the original venue in Walsh Bay. Black Lotus and Tamarillo Martini doing a with chilli oil. Mamasan’s carpaccio is The sleek space, carved into private and brisk trade. Teas - white peony, oolong, a blend of white sashimi slices topped public dining rooms, a cocktail bar and a Shanghai afternoon and more - are as with pork crackling and truffle oil. But the dumpling counter, is the work of DS17, the much of a pull as the dumplings. The trademark dishes of spicy mixed sashimi design group responsible for Alpha, Peter tightly edited wine list runs the gamut from with Kocyujyan sauce and one bite beef - Conistis’ swish modern Greek restaurant Dom Perignon 2004 for $350 to Aussie prime fillet cooked teppanyaki style - take on Castlereagh St. The clientele? Young bottlings from all states peppered with a lot of beating. Again, a seriously good and trendy, with a large wedge of Chinese French, Italian and New Zealand options. contemporary take on Asian favourites. diners in designer duds to instantly confirm The nine course banquet is a gift for $59 Mamasan, 403 Crown St, Surry Hills; phone that the contemporary Chinese menu per person, starting with oysters with (02) 9130 5066. delivers on quality and style. The plate of eschallots and rice wine vinegar dressing Open since late April, it’s still tough to get mixed dumplings is a popular starter but and including a cracker of a salad - crystal a reservation at Firedoor. A collaboration our eyes were drawn to the steamed xiao ice plant salad with cucumber, enoki and between chef Lennox Hastie and the long bao with pork and crab versions - four black vinegar dressing. Four expertly-made Fink Group of Quay (Otto and the new pieces per serve - and the deep-fried spring desserts cater for sweet tooths. Supplies Bennelong restaurant in the Opera House rolls with fresh shiitake mushroom and of the jasmine creme caramel had been fame), the main point of difference is black fungus. There’s maximum contact exhausted on the night of our visit, so we the fact that everything is cooked over with the waitperson who takes the order plumped for the sago and red bean paste an open fire. British-born Hastie has but each dish is presented by a different pudding. Creamy and smooth with the an impressive resume, ranging from plate-server. A good strategy for those who slightest of nursery overtones and none- Michelin 3 star restaurants in France to a want an early dinner and for others who the-less good for that. A great addition five-year deployment at Spain’s Asador are looking to make dinner the main event to Sydney’s dining scene for people who Etxebarri. The Basque foodie mecca of the night because even though service frequently head for the fancier eateries of widely acknowledged as one of the best is quick there’s no pressure to eat it and Hong Kong and Shanghai, and more so restaurants in the world and where he beat it. I’m not a big fan of subtly-flavoured for those who don’t. Lotus Restaurant & earned his spurs cooking over a naked Chinese dishes but there’s plenty on offer Dumpling Bar, Level 1, The Galeries, 500 flame. Forget a backyard grill interior, such as Shanghai-style cooked chicken George St; phone (02) 9267 3699. Firedoor’s decor is sleek and ultra-smart and steamed whole fish with ginger and Mamasan in Surry Hills is another offshoot and centred by an open kitchen. The menu shallots for diners who prefer to balance of a pack-em-in sister eatery in Bondi. changes daily and specific woods are used tastes in a share menu with light and more Another similarity to Lotus is the stunning to cook specific foods. Smoky applewood deep-flavoured choices. In a nod to Aussie decor - three storeys soaring to a light for fish and poultry, and chestnut wood native foods, there is wok-fried wallaby installation and dense with Taiwanese for mushrooms and beef. Even though rump with sweet paste and saltbush. and Japanese objects d’art, dark wood the menu carries the day’s date, there are Maybe next time, but the wok-fried beef tables and bench seats. A description repeat favourites. Think the most succulent fillet with black pepper and barilla - pungent that should reveal that the menu is pan- 120+ day dry aged rib on the bone, hunks of protein with baby sweetcorn - was Asian, with influences stretching from the jurassic quail, radicchio and toasted spelt more on the money on a cool night. Anyone South China Sea to Tokyo. Owned by ad and garfish, bagnat vert and champagne after a fiery aftertaste won’t go wrong with man Adam Hunt and Gemma Lin, his radish. The bread is wood-fired, of course, the wok-fried king prawns in XO sauce. partner and the head chef, there’s a strong and the wine list is top-notch. Not to be Each one was big and meaty, and there emphasis on drinks from the laundry list of missed. Firedoor, 22-33 Mary St, Surry Hills; were plenty on the plate to satisfy a big cocktails to a huge range of Asian whiskies phone (02) 8204 0800. appetite. The standout side dish was crispy and beers. The menu is split between Above: Bar snacks from Lotus Restaurant & Dumpling Bar. 44 WINES TATE November/December 2015

brisbane grape vine LIZZIE LOEL a leafy suburban enclave in Brisbane’s inner north. Too Zero opened recently with the self-adopted moniker of “inn of indulgence”. The decor is a juxtaposition of rustic charm and gilt-edged chic - dark green walls and acres of reclaimed wood make up the back lit bar and high tables and stools. The menu picks up on current trends - mac and cheese balls with smoked bacon jam, baby back ribs, chilli cheese dogs and bourbon wings - represent the ROOFTOPS are the perfect places to American food invasion, the earth burger put bars. There’s something a little bit with Indian-spiced potato cake, hummus magical about a good rooftop bar, they’re and kale takes care of the green brigade legendary all over the globe, especially and 3Tea smoked salmon with sesame, when they boast panoramic views. Eleven quinoa and winter flowers gets the hipster is located in Fortitude Valley (no prizes for vote every time. Fat duck pancakes with guessing it is located on the 11th floor) of an hoisin and pickled cucumber are delicious, unassuming looking office building. Alight especially when dipped in the zingy from the lift though and it is anything but tamarind sauce on the side. Flank steak is unassuming or “officey”. Open on two sides cooked to medium rare and topped with with retractable roofing that lets in the sun sauteed field mushrooms and a delicate or stars, glass balustrades hide none of the but meaty soy butter. 20 Farrant St, Stafford CBD views, with a backdrop of the rolling Heights; phone (07) 3350 4915. hills of outer Brisbane. Upright columns Over at West End in the inner south of the are lined with granite between which huge city The Stores, a fresh produce, butchery wicker lounges sit. Chunky wooden tables and deli complex has opened on busy and bar stools give the place a strong, Montague Rd. Offering everything from Red Hook and Coppa Spuntino, all in the patio vibe and there are curtains around the high-end meats to small birds, charcuterie CBD. They partnered with New Zealand- tables for those looking for a private affair. and game (and crocodile) as well as born Jason Smith, a long-term resident Unlike many rooftops, Eleven has a house-smoked bacon, ham and wurst, of London where he owned a gastro-pub cracker of a menu filled with both nibbly- Shultz’s butcher also has various ready- in north London (and met the English-born style snacks and dishes that are more to-go dishes, hearty pies and dry-aged duo) and brought in chef Con Tsangaris substantial. Meatballs sit in a rich curry Yagaburne beef. Jocelyn’s Provisions’ whose previous venues include Urbane sauce - there’s lots of it - topped with a beautiful organic sourdough, baguettes and Gerard’s Bistro. There’s a nose-to-tail coconut raita with a side of grainy organic and fig and aniseed loaves are available emphasis on the menu - bone marrow sourdough. It’s a delicious combination and daily and coffee and snacks are abundantly roasted and served on the bone and so is the pulled wagyu beef arancini with available from the gourmet deli. There’s a topped with crispy onion shards is delicious provolone, horseradish and pickled onions. well-stocked cheese room that offers a wide as are the clams poached with spicy nduja, Szechuan dusted squid is crisp and variety of international and local artisanal king fish, with mustard leaf puree and sour tender, served with a lemon aioli and gin, offerings, and the dry goods also include pickled onions, and a moreish little list of and juice oysters served by the half or imported and local products like LiraH bar snacks. The bar, stocked with craft dozen are spritzy, covered in an orange gin vinegar and McClure’s pickles. There’s beers and quality spirits, sits in the centre vinaigrette. Bigger bites that will also delight also a bulk whole food outlet - The Source of the room around which tables are dotted. are the seared scallops with pillowy gnocchi Bulk Foods. It sells no packaged products Sommelier Alan Hunter (ex-E’cco) has with soused currants, sage noisettes and but you can grab a bottle, bag or reusable amassed an eclectic range of wines and almonds, lamb breast, roasted and served container and fill it with the myriad of flours, Rob Scott (ex Canvas and Papa Jack’s) is with lemon and oregano, and a side of dry baking goods, nuts, chocolate, dried in charge of cocktails, mixed and muddled braised red cabbage and crispy quail with fruits, nuts, grains, paleo and organic drinks. Corner Montague Rd and Raven St, chimmi churri on a cauliflower puree. Level pasta, trail mix and grain-free bircher West End; phone (07) 3846 1593. 11, 757 Ann St, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) muesli. London Fields is the gastro pub 3067 7447. adjacent to The Stores, the latest opening There’s more interesting bar food on offer for business partners Bonnie Shearston in the unlikely location of Stafford Heights, and Tom Sanseau, who also own Public, Above: London Fields bowl of clams and entrance. November/December 2015 WINES TATE 45

hong k ong grape vine IVY NG ARGUABLY the award of three Michelin dishes (second orders possible), or the stars is down to seamless teamwork. At executive lunch menu at $HK398/$70. Lung King Heen, the temple of haute I particularly recommend the utterly cuisine chinoise at the Four Seasons Hotel delectable baked barbecued pork and in Hong Kong, they pay attention to every pineapple bun with crystal sugar crust aspect of food execution and service ($HK58/$A10 for three pieces). Eat it when to ensure diners of a truly memorable it arrives piping hot and bite into the juicy experience. Start the meal with signature interior while coating your lips with the icing deep-fried crab shell stuffed with onion and - heavenly! It promises to convert anyone fresh crab meat ($HK220/$A38) - perfectly with an aversion to sweet and savoury in balanced proportions of crabmeat and the same bite. The bean-curd sheet rolls onion, with just a dash of Lea & Perrin sauce stuffed with cod fillet and topped with to contrast the freshness of the crabmeat. shrimp roe takes savoury flavours to a new heritage cleverly woven into every detail I particularly recommend the barbecue experience ($HK60/$A11 for two pieces). of Hullett House’s interior design. Be sure suckling pig ($HK360/$A63) - crispy The almost translucent steamed rice-flour to explore and admire the preservation crackling atop tender succulent meat and rolls stuffed with scallops, honey beans details, including salvaged wood from the a layer of fluffy rice-flour pancake (go easy and lily bulbs are delicately seasoned to deck of an ancient Chinese junk, to white with the plum sauce!), and the divine Lung emphasise the freshness of ingredients. stucco colonnades from 1881 and restored King Heen roast chicken ($HK270/$A47 The simple and yet totally moreish stir- stable doors. The crimson egg lamps lining half portion; $HK540/$A94 whole chicken) fried rice rolls with sesame seeds and soy the staircase from Stables Grill to Whisky@ - beautifully roasted chicken, moist and sauce are evidence of the chef’s mastery Stables are symbolic features of local tender, with wafer-thin crispy skin, glistening of the wok ($HK52/$A9). Finish the meal traditional wet markets. Whisky@Stables with such brilliance and hardly any fat with fragrant lychee-flavoured steamed boasts a venerable collection of over 100 underneath - a classic! For a touch of spice, egg white custard. Do not miss out on different whiskies from around the world try the wok-fried prawns with organic black the specially selected teas, particularly and plush Victorian English furnishings garlic and dried chilli ($HK380/$A66) and the intensely flavoured and silky Sow Mei, to detain weary feet and tempt curious wok-fried Australian beef tenderloin with the aromatic Iron Buddha or the Iranian palates. You might find yourself carrying spring onion, garlic and black pepper rose bud tea with its digestive quality. At a pint of local brew Young Master into ($HK440/$A77). Finish with either the Lung dinner, the restaurant offers a choice of two the grey confines of preserved prisoner King Heen signature fried rice or the stir- tasting menus based on seasonal dishes, cells inside Mariners’ Rest for a unique fried puntalette with minced beef in XO chilli starting at $HK968/$A169, without wine experience. The decor of the Chinese sauce ($HK240/$A42) - an East-meets- pairing. Restaurant manager William Chan restaurant Loong Toh Yuen marries the West dish packed with bold flavours and al offers an extensive choice of wines by the ambiance of an old HK teahouse and dente textures, tasty to the last grain! The glass to pair with the dishes. Corkage is refined Regency chinoiserie. The all-you- wine list offers a comprehensive choice, but $HK350/$A61 a bottle. Phone +852 2315 can-eat dim sum lunch at $HK198/$A35 for something different try senior sommelier 5222. (weekdays) or $HK248/$A43 (weekends) Bernard Chan’s, “A Taste of Asia” - a flight For an experience that combines offers great value for traditional Cantonese of six tasting portions of six wines and architectural and cultural heritage with dim sums. The kitchen of the Western spirits from Asia, including China, Taiwan, culinary diversity, head for Hullett House restaurant, St George, has recently been Korea, Thailand, India and Japan (subject inside the 1881 Heritage Compound in Tsim taken over by young local talent Jeff Chan, to seasonal changes, $HK600/$A105 per Sha Tsui. Originally constructed in 1881, who, as head chef, has created a southern flight). The restaurant offers a tasting menu the former marine police headquarters is French-influenced menu reflecting his at $HK1780/$A311 or $HK2380/$A416 one of the four oldest surviving government earlier training at Le Jardin des Sens in with wine pairing. Corkage is a staggering buildings in Hong Kong, and together with Montpellier. Signature dishes include 52° $HK750/$A131 a bottle! Be sure you book the old Kowloon fire station, it has been confit of salmon with cucumber, granny well in advance and ask for a table with the redeveloped into a boutique hotel and smith and smoked caviar, and Iberico pork view. Phone +852 3196 8888. commercial compound, preserving as rack with pork cheek wrapped in spaghetti, If you are on the Kowloon side for lunch, much heritage as possible. Hullett House morel cream and mushroom puree. There Cuisine Cuisine inside The Mira Hotel is is a boutique hotel with 10 individually are two set dinner menus ($HK988/$A173 a great choice for quality dim sums. If you designed suites, with balconies overlooking or $HK1288/$A225), with wine pairing as do not wish to bother with the a la carte the city, harbour or garden, as well as an optional extra. Phone +852 3988 000. menu, there is a choice of either all-you- seven dining outlets, function rooms and can-eat dim sums at $HK298/$A52, with lawns and courtyards to suit different event Above: Iberico pork rack, with pork cheek, spaghetti, morel cream and mushroom puree from St George choices from almost 30 different dim sum needs. There is a piece of Hong Kong Hullett House. 46 WINES TATE November/December 2015

wine w ords ROBIN SHA W CEO , ADELAIDE HILLS WINE SKYE MURTAGH WHEN it comes to knowing what’s required to appreciate the agricultural nature of to build and maintain a successful wine and what differentiates it from other partnership between wine and tourism, alcoholic beverages. few people are probably more qualified than Robin Shaw, who’s spent the last 20 Where do wineries usually fall over when years promoting Australia’s wine industry. it comes to marketing to tourists? Shaw’s foray into the sector began with All wineries can claim to offer “quality” an administrative role at De Bortoli Wines wines, and just being “family owned” in the early ’90s. This was followed by a isn’t a sufficient differentiator either. management position at The Australian Communicating a genuine point of Wine Club and then the challenge of running difference that will engage and entice the Jacob’s Creek Visitor Centre. Through people to visit is essential. subsequent roles at the South Australian Tourism Commission (SATC) and then eight What part does the cellar door play in years with the Winemakers’ Federation of wine tourism? Australia, Shaw has actively championed While cellar doors are the beating heart Australia as a wine tourism destination and of wine tourism experiences in our regions, developed a passion for educating wineries the definition of wine tourism is far broader on how to tap into the tourism market. Today than just wine. People travel to wine regions Shaw is CEO of Adelaide Hills Wine - an primarily for leisure and to experience the association representing the winemakers wine, food, culture, people and landscape a tasting experience in a retail shop, so and grape growers of the Adelaide Hills that is unique to the region. Cities also offer enticing people to travel to taste and buy that works to promote the region and foster wine tourism experiences through their wine requires a lot more thought than it environmentally sustainable viticultural and restaurants, bars and events. used to. There’s also more choice, with winemaking practices. She also runs a a proliferation of cellar doors across the small consultancy, Wine Tourism Australia, Should wineries cater differently at country, so differentiation is more important which specialises in the development and cellar door to locals over visitors from than ever. Many cellar doors compete with delivery of visitor experiences. interstate/overseas? large scale events in their regions while Every visitor is unique and skilled cellar others have capitalised on the “vineyard What defines today’s typical wine door operators understand how to interpret wedding” trend. Diversification through tourist? what each person needs. Geography isn’t additional income streams - restaurants, I think curiosity is a common attribute the factor that differentiates what visitors cafes, on-site breweries, tours, events among people who visit cellar doors. Wine expect, although cultural differences and and accommodation - has changed the is no longer perceived as the domain of the language need to be taken into account. concept of a cellar door just being a place “connoisseur” and people of all ages are Visitor expectations are often dependent to purchase wine. However, selling wine eager to explore the provenance of their on their level of wine “involvement”. Highly remains the core focus for any cellar door, wine, engage with the winemaker and share involved consumers often seek more and the rise of wine clubs in various forms their experiences. technical information and appreciate the has created further opportunities along nuances of food matching, for example. with even more choice for consumers. What are their expectations from a Low involvement consumers often Social media now provides a platform for winery experience? appreciate sensory and visual experiences winery operators and their customers to The key word is “experience”. There’s that help them learn and appreciate wine interact regularly and informally, and if nothing special about standing at a tasting more fully. In either case, an exceptional done well, has the potential to create loyal bench and being asked, “What would you “experience” is likely to lead to sales and ambassadors capable of sharing with a like to try today?” as the opening question. favourable recommendations. broad audience. Visitors expect to be taken on a journey of discovery that’s both entertaining and How has the cellar door experience Is it important for neighbouring wine memorable. Adding a food element to the changed over the last 10-20 years? regions to work with each other? experience increases satisfaction levels Through the work conducted by wine There are 65 wine regions in Australia and and creates an opportunity to tell a regional industry and tourism organisations over consumers cannot be expected to know story, especially where local produce is the last 15 years, the attitude of wineries them all - most winemakers don’t either used. Many visitors are keen to see how has changed from a “production-driven” - so collaboration is an important factor wine is grown and made, so vineyard and mindset to being “consumer driven”. It when marketing to particular sectors. In winery tours offer opportunities for people is accepted that consumers can have South Australia, the SATC has developed November/December 2015 WINES TATE 47

a tourism product called the Epicurean some of the world’s best examples. From forced to cellar them for eternity (the single Way, a food and wine trail which takes in small family owned properties to large- bottle of ’91 Grange might appreciate four wine regions from McLaren Vale to scale attractions, the common denominator that, but the rest might not). I still have a Clare, in recognition of the fact visitors don’t is visitor-focused experiences. presentation box of De Bortoli Sauternes necessarily see the “borders” we do - they 375ml bottles dating back to the first travel for experiences instead. On a more personal note, describe your vintage that, judging by the colour variation, best wine tourism experience ever. should be consumed soon. How can the Australian wine industry That’s really hard - there are so many! improve in the area of tourism marketing? Often it’s the small things I remember, Where do you get your tips on new In tourism speak, the wine industry still like the time I had an orphaned bleating wines to try? lags behind in its commissionable product lamb for company in the cellar door while I’m fortunate to be around wine people offering, largely because a free wine tasting tasting fantastic chardonnay and pinot regularly and get to hear about new wine is not something that can be on-sold by a in gleaming Riedel glasses, or being styles. The Adelaide Hills is home to such third party. Therefore, the development of nearly licked to death by half a dozen a diverse range of varieties and in the last inclusive experiences that attract a fee is Border Collie puppies on the lawn beside year I’ve discovered local drops of gruner critical to gain entry into tourism distribution the picnic table where we were tasting veltliner, arneis, fiano, montepulciano and channels. Ultimate Winery Experiences of the wine - and wanting to take them all other alternative varieties - it’s like taking Australia, a consortium of wineries offering home with me. In fact, many of my most a journey around the world without ever experiences that can be sold through the memorable wine tourism experiences leaving the region. trade, is a terrific example of luxury wine involve animals of some kind - a couple of tourism experiences being marketed to an donkeys, four squirrels and some poultry What’s your favourite wine accessory? international audience. at Babylonstoren in Franschhoek earlier All I need is a big glass and an excuse this year captivated a bunch of Australian to open a bottle - both of which I have plenty! Can Australian wine regions learn winemakers for longer than I would have from specialised wine areas in other thought possible! countries? Australians continually seek and share Do you collect wine? knowledge with other wine regions in the I try, but I have a strange habit of drinking world. In a wine tourism context, I believe it regularly. Fortunately I have a system the Cape Winelands, of South Africa, offer of boxes that are so difficult to get to I’m Travel with Phil Hoffmann Business Travel to the Vinitaly Wine fair 2016 Fly from $1889 per person inc taxes smart business travel. made easy. • Voted Australia’s number 1 Travel Agency • Competitive corporate & discount airfares • Dedicated Business Travel Consultant • Competitive Hotel Programs • 24/7 Assistance • And much more 48 WINES TATE November/December 2015



WHAT’S IT WORTH? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. CLARENDON HILLS 1999 $70 2001 $80 1957 $12,000 2009 $200  AUSTRALIAN Astralis Shiraz 2000 $65 2002 $80  1958 $4,100 2010 $280 WINES 1994 $200 2001 $65 2003 $80 1959 $2,000 1995 $200 2002 $85 2004 $90 1960 $1,500 Bin 60A 1996 $250  2003 $65 2005 $75 1961 $1,600 1962 $4,000 BASS PHILLIP Hill of Grace Premium Pinot Noir 1997 $200 2004 $75  1980 $280  2006 $70 1962 $1,600 2004 $550  1998 $260 2005 $65 2006 $400 2007 $85 1963 $1,200  1990 $75 1999 $260 2006 $70 1981 $220 2008 $70 1964 $1,200  1991 $90 2000 $270 2007 $65  1982 $250  2009 $75 1965 $600  1992 $95 2001 $290 2008 $55 1983 $220 2010 $70 1966 $1,000  1993 $80 2002 $300 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600 1994 $110 2003 $200 1985 $280 1968 $600  1995 $80 2004 $350 GIACONDA 1986 $330 1969 $560 Stonewell Shiraz 1996 $110 2005 $230 Chardonnay 1987 $250  1970 $400 1990 $90 1997 $140 2006 $250 1990 $110 1988 $330  1971 $720 1991 $70 1998 $140 2007 Not Released 1991 $60 1989 $280  1972 $400 1992 $60 1999 $120 2008 Not Released 1992 $85 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1993 $65 2000 $120 2009 Not Released 1993 $90 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1994 $55 2001 $160 2010 $200 1994 $100 1992 $350  1990 $130 1975 $460  1995 $55 2002 $145 2011 Not Released 1995 $85 1993 $300  1991 $150 1976 $850  1996 $70 2003 $110 2012 $210 1996 $140 1994 $360  1992 $120 1977 $450  1997 $55 2004 $140 1997 $95 1995 $320  1993 $100 1978 $380  1998 $85  2005 $80 CLONAKILLA 1998 $110  1996 $480 1994 $100 1979 $400 1999 $75 2007 $130 Shiraz Viognier 1999 $120 1997 $300  1995 $130 1980 $380  2000 $70 2008 $85 1990 $65 2000 $110 1998 $420 1996 $120 1981 $400 2001 $65 2009 $85 1993 $65 2001 $110 1999 $380 1997 $100 1982 $380 2002 $70 2010 $90 1994 $85 2002 $160 2001 $380  1998 $130  1983 $480  2003 $55 2011 $100 2002 $420 2004 $85 1995 $65 2004 $190 1999 $130 1984 $350 1996 $100 2005 $120 2004 $380 2000 $130  1985 $380 2005 $60 BINDI 1997 $130 2006 $110  2005 $390  2001 $130 1986 $520 2006 $60 Block 5 Pinot Noir 1998 $150 2007 $120  2006 $180  2002 $120  1987 $350 2007 $55 1997 $80 1999 $55 2008 $130  2007 Not Released 2003 $90 1988 $380  2008 $60 1998 $95 2000 $90 2009 Not Released 2008 $540 2004 $100 1989 $360 1999 Not Released 2001 $130 2010 $130 2005 $100 1990 $540 2000 $150 2002 $130 2011 $130 2006 $70  1991 $460 2001 $120 2003 $100  2012 $130 2007 $95  1992 $380  2002 $110 2004 $120 2008 $90 1993 $380  2003 $85 2005 $110 2009 $85 1994 $380 Basket Press 2004 $110 2006 $120  2010 $80  1995 $370 Shiraz 2005 $140 2007 $190  Armagh Shiraz 2011 $90 1996 $500 1990 $150 2006 $100 2008 $90 1990 $200 1997 $380  1991 $140 2007 $120 2009 $95  1991 $120  MOUNT MARY 1998 $580 1992 $95 2008 $120 2010 $90  Meshach 1992 $140  Quintet 1999 $400 1993 $110  2009 $90 2011 $75 1990 $100 1993 $110 1990 $150 2000 $420 1994 $95  2010 $95 2012 $70 1991 $85 1994 $130 1991 $120 2001 $380 1995 $100  2011 $85 1992 $80 1995 $130 1992 $110 2002 $450 1996 $180  2012 $95 1993 $70 1996 $190  1993 $95 2003 $420 1997 $90  1994 $90 1997 $140  1994 $110 2004 $460 1998 $190 BROKENWOOD 1995 $70 1998 $250  1995 $100 2005 $430 1999 $110 Graveyard Shiraz 1996 $90 1999 $180  1996 $120 2006 $520 2000 $90 1990 $90 1997 Not Released 2000 $120 1997 $120 2007 $420 2001 $95 1991 $110 Cabernet Merlot 1998 $110 2001 $140 1998 $160 2008 $620 2002 $120 1992 Not Released 1999 $95 1999 $90 2002 $200 1999 $130 2003 $100 1993 $80 2000 $65 2000 $70 2004 $160  2000 $120 2004 $110  1994 $80 2001 $110  2001 $110 2005 $120 2001 $110 2005 $110  1995 $85  2002 $90 2002 $95 2006 $160 2002 $130 2006 $110 1996 $95 2003 $90 2003 $60 2007 $95 2003 $110 2007 $85  1997 $85 2004 $110  2004 $70 2008 $160 2004 $140 2008 $85  1998 $140  2005 $85 2005 $65 2005 $120 Bin 707 2009 $85  1999 $90 2006 $70 2006 $65 2006 $120 1990 $250  2010 $100  2000 $140  2007 $100 2007 Not Released 2007 $90 1991 $250  2001 $85  2008 $95  2008 $85 2008 $95 1992 $210  THREE RIVERS/ 2002 $75 2009 $95  2009 Not Released 1993 $220  Chris Ringland 2003 $80 2010 $100  GREENOCK CREEK 2010 $85 1994 $220  Wines Shiraz 2004 $85  2011 $75 Roennfeldt Rd 2011 $120 1995 Not Released 1990 $520 2005 $85 Shiraz Chardonnay 1996 $230 1991 $690 2006 $110 1995 $280 Art Series 1997 $190 1992 $600 2007 $90 ELDERTON 1996 $260 1990 $60 1998 $260 1993 $700 2008 Not Released Command Shiraz 1997 $160 1991 $60 1999 $200 1994 $650 2009 $85 1990 $90  1998 $350 1992 $70 2000 Not Released 1995 $450 1991 Not Released 1999 $200  1993 $65 2001 $210  1996 $830 1992 $100 2000 $220 1994 $85 Bin 95 Grange 2002 $220  1997 Not Released 1993 $65 2001 $250 1995 $100 1951 $46,000 2003 Not Released 1998 $850 1994 $85  2002 $320  1996 $65 1952 $17,000 2004 $200 1999 $600 1995 $75 2003 $210 1997 $90 1953 $14,000 2005 $230  2000 $450 1996 $95 2004 $210 1998 $70 1954 $11,000  2006 $220  2001 $800 1997 $70 2005 $230 1999 $75 1955 $4,000 2007 $200  2002 $800 1998 $95 2006 $260 2000 $75 1956 $14,000 2008 $210  2003 $500 50 WINES TATE November/December 2015