Winestate Magazine September October 2019

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE OVER 350 TASTED M. Chapoutier L’Ermite Guigal Brune et Blonde Henschke Hill of Grace Penfolds Grange Torbreck Run Rig Bird In Hand M.A.C Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Road &Champagne Sparkling New Releases 132 tasted 142tasted September/October 2019 Vol 42 Issue 5 $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Nor th-East Victoria • Limestone Coast & Surrounds Champagne & Sparkling • Pinot Noir • New Releases • Otago (NZ)

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WHEN CONSISTENCY COUNTS Experience our world-class wines from some of Australia’s oldest vines www.grandeurwellington.com.au 220011 BBlleewwiitttt SSpprriinnggss RRooaadd,, MMccLLaarreenn FFllaatt, SSoouutthh AAuussttrraalliiaa 55117711 GW19188991-2

NO.297 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2019 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Sub-editor Michael Bates Administration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Manager E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator Ashlea Lowke E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International We have to wash Winestate Publishing over 32,000 Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] wine glasses Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] each year ... Victoria John Ogden so you don’t have to. Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd phone +61 8 8357 9277 or International DAI Rubicon on-line www.winestate.com.au WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright2019byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwhole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 5

contents SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2019 FEATURES 26 WINE MEDIA CONFERENCE 30 ALL IN FOR THE CLUB For the first time since it’s inception Mike Zekulich explores the origins in 2008, the Annual Wine Media of the WA Wine Press Club, a long Conference, normally held throughout standing institution dedicated to parts of North America, will take place the support and education of the on our shores (or rather inland) in the WA Wine Industry and the founding Hunter Valley, NSW. An important body of the respected Jack Mann conference to attend for all the wine Memorial Medal. industry, this event aims to educate and make introductions to all things social media and beyond. 28 ALCOHOL – IS IT GOOD OR BAD? 30 32 Renowned cardiologist Dr. Ross 32 REACHING NEW PEAKS R E G U L A R S Walker tries to get to the bottom of Whether it’s a eucalypt character that 10 Briefs whether imbibing a tipple or two will 18 NZ Briefs earn us an early grave or save our typifies cool climate Australia or what 20 European Report with Sally Easton souls. He takes a look at various winemaker, Andrew Koerner, refers to 22 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley studies and tries to sort the fact from as the distinct regional character of 24 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King the fiction of these often skewed data. ‘Chinese 5 spice’ – one thing’s for sure 41 Grapevine the Richardson Reserve 2013 Shiraz 48 What’s it Worth? 28 is an absolute beauty. Taking out the 50 Wine Investment & Collecting winner of the $100-$200 category 122 Aftertaste in this year’s Mainfreight World’s Greatest Shiraz/Syrah Challenge IX W I N E TAST I N G S and coming in second overall in our 54 Shiraz/Syrah & Blends Top Ten from more than 300 wines 69 Pinot Noir tasted. Jeni Port explores the story 76 North-East Victoria behind the wine. 80 Champagne & Sparkling 88 Limestone Coast & Surrounds 54 MAINFREIGHT WORLD’S 93 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases GREATEST SYRAH & SHIRAZ 100 Otago (Central Otago & Waitaki Valley) CHALLENGE XIV A battle of the world’s heavyweight shiraz and syrah labels again saw Grange take out the top award. Mainfreight World’s Greatest Syrah & Shiraz Challenge XIV tasting starts page 54. 38 AND THE WINNERS ARE... 108 New Releases and Best Value Buys This year’s category winners of the under $20. Winestate’s Mainfreight World’s For a complete list of what we tasted for this Greatest Syrah & Shiraz Challenge issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au XIV can be found on page 38. Winestate Magazine Issue Number 297 September/October 2019 Cover image boule13 6 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

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editorial GREAT TO SEE in the media the other day showing new research that red wine relieves stress and is one of the great advantages of having a glass or two each day. I have said this forever. I can’t believe that this is never mentioned when the argument from the anti-alcohol lobby is put forward that wine drinking is bad for you. Their argument is always about the negative effects of binge drinking; the effects of alcohol for women, particularly in relation to fertility and pregnancy; drink driving and so on. Whilst these arguments are all valid to specific sets of people, the fact that there is no counterpoint to these opinions boggles the mind. It’s the classic case of using a shot gun to kill a fly. The over-arching argument for a drink or two is that those who drink moderately will outlive teetotallers, so it is reasonable to assume that a dose of happiness and reducing stress beats avoidance every time. (There is only so much coffee you can drink before you need a glass of wine!) We do recognize however that binge drinking will kill you earlier, so don’t do it! In this issue we are pleased to have an article by renowned speaker and heart health advocate, Doctor Ross Walker on the sensible benefits of wine drinking. This eminent cardiologist, author of seven books, puts the case both positively and negatively, from alcohol studies done throughout the world. As with most items of research “it depends” on how the results are skewed. Throughout history there have been many doctors who have championed wine; Doctor Lindeman immediately comes to mind, Doctor Philip Norrie wrote for us in the early days (1980’s) of Winestate, Doctor Max Lake was famous for his wine judging exploits and Doctor’s John and Brigid Forrest from New Zealand, who previously had careers in molecular biology and medicine before establishing their first vineyard in the Wairau Valley, currently produce their Forrest Wines with one range bearing the moniker of ‘The Doctors’. Endorsement indeed! In this issue we feature our major Mainfreight World’s Greatest Shiraz & Syrah Challenge in its ninth instalment, with the many iconic names included; Guigal, Chapoutier, Grange, Hill of Grace, Torbreck, Bird in Hand etc. Whilst there are many tastings of this varietal around the world Australian Shiraz continues to be the yardstick for this wine when legitimate wine judgings are done (as evidenced by Australian winners in other international competitions). As they say in football parlance, “if you want to be the best you have to beat the best!” We are pleased to judge wines across all price categories to find wines that suit all budgets. If you’re keen to find out the overall category winners, see page 36, with a more comprehensive report of all wines tasted for this feature starting page 54. Also in this issue we are pleased to pass on our recommendations for the wines from South Australia’s Limestone Coast, Victoria’s North-East and New Zealand’s Central Otago & Waitaki Valleys. There are some fabulous wines to buy in each of those tastings. (Make sure you Google the wines that you like and ask for local or direct deliveries or check the back of the mag for direct contact details for these wines.) If that is not enough we also have our annual Pinot Noir roundup and the bubbly version included in our Champagne & Sparkling Wines judging. New Releases from our Winestate panel and Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases round out a great issue. Lots to like and lots to enjoy. Cheers! Peter Simic Your wine, Editor/Publisher our ports. Australia Major Sponsors and Supporters Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter whaWt. INE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY www.hamburgsud-line.com September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs SEASON OF CHANGE FRIEND AND CHAMPION CHANGES are afoot at Elderton Wines in the Barossa Valley with ONE of the greats of the Victorian and Australian wine industries, the decision of the company’s co-founder Lorraine Ashmead Colin Campbell, of Campbells of Rutherglen, succumbed to to step down from the board and the departure of Elderton’s cancer in May. He was 73. long-time winemaker Richard Langford. As the family’s fourth-generation winemaker, he guided not only In light of their mother’s decision to step down, co-managing the fortunes of his Rutherglen winery - together with his brother directors, Cameron and Allister Ashmead have taken the and viticulturist Malcolm - but was an important instrument for opportunity to extend the number of non-executive board change in his region and state which has had lasting implications members to include well-known New Zealand winemaker and for the broader Australian wine industry. He was a long-serving founder of Craggy Range winery, Steve Smith, MW. committee and board member of the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia, now called Australian Grape and Wine. The move of Langford to neighbouring Barossa maker Two Hands has opened up a new position of Head of Production for “Our industry has lost a great friend and a true champion,” said winemaker Julie Ashmead (nee Campbell) who is the daughter Sandy Clark, chairman of Australian Grape and Wine. He was of the late Colin Campbell and fifth-generation winemaker at a strong advocate for fairer taxation and worked hard with the Campbells of Rutherglen. winemakers of Rutherglen on industry issues. He was a sensitive and talented winemaker devoted to the Rutherglen region and TURKISH DELIGHT produced a strong portfolio of wines from table wines - his Bobbie Burns Shiraz has multi-generations of followers - and AFTER years of experimentation and his fortifieds, led by the Merchant Prince Muscat. He was a hard work, the Turkish red grape variety, passionate advocate for the region’s development of a quality bogazkere, is now in the ground and the classification system for Rutherglen fortified wines and when first wines are ready for commercial sale. the name tokay was no longer allowed to be used as the result of the EU-Australia Wine Trade Treaty, he was at the forefront in It’s been a long road for Victorian wine researching and arriving at a new replacement name topaque. consultant Robert Paul and Dookie-based wine producer Richard Tallis, but their WOMEN IN THE SPOTLIGHT belief in the variety, they say, has been justified. “Some years ago a colleague NOW in its fifth year, the Australian Women In Wine Awards is and I who had both been in Turkey once again working to promote gender diversity in the Australian decided that some of the indigenous wine industry by highlighting the great work performed by women. varieties there might have a place in Australia, especially because of their ability to flourish in hot, dry conditions without irrigation. Entries for the awards are now open in eight categories: Futhermore they seemed to be late-ripening which we deemed Winemaker of the Year, Viticulturist of the Year, Research/Innovator useful.” The vines had two years in quarantine and then another year of the Year, Champion of Diversity and Equality (which is open to or two was spent in culturing and planting. The first vintages were both men and women), Owner/Operator of the Year, Woman of small and never saw the light of day but the 2017 vintage proved Inspiration, Marketer of the Year and Cellar Door Person of the Year. to be large enough in volume for commercial release. This year the awards will be held in New York, officially opening “We have modified the style a bit in 2017 to better suit the modern Wine Australia’s Aussie Wine Month marketing campaign in the palate and people who taste it often comment on a similarity to US. To celebrate the history-making event, Wine Australia will be grenache,” says Paul. “I would agree, with a dash of durif thrown in.” sponsoring the Honorary Australian Woman In Wine Award USA in The 2017 bogazkere, $36, (pronounced bow-aahz-keh-reh) is sold the form of a bursary. The winner will explore the wine regions of under the Lokum wine brand and is believed to be the first commercial Victoria, donated by the Victorian Government, and will recognise Turkish grape variety sold in Australia. Visit www.lokumwine.com. a woman who lives and works in the US and has made a positive impact in the US promoting Australian wine. The awards ceremony in New York is on September 17. 10 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

briefs MAKING THE MOST OF HERITAGE VALUE them in the heart of Brisbane, where we know the Proud Henry team can do them justice, is the next step in our evolution. We trust their PATRITTI, one of the last surviving city-based wineries in South instinct and their ability. Their wine knowledge is impeccable and Australia, has renewed its agreement to produce wine from the we are confident this collaboration is a really good match for us.” world’s oldest commercial urban vineyard. All of Symphony Hill’s wines are available for purchase at Proud Planted in 1907, the 1ha Marion Vineyard is surrounded by Henry and tastings are available daily from noon-5pm. Seven housing and a public swimming pool in the southern suburbs of Symphony Hill wines will feature on the wine list and can be Adelaide, a city of 1.4 million people. served with charcuterie and cheese. Proud Henry, 153 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley, Brisbane; phone (07) 3102 1237 or visit But its grapes are not feeling the squeeze of city living with the proudhenry.com.au. Patritti Marion Vineyard Grenache Shiraz a regular award winner. Established in 1926, Patritti Wines is the last remaining family- owned suburban winery in Adelaide. It is about 4km south of the council-owned Marion Vineyard, which it has managed since 2006. The vineyard produces around 3000 bottles of the grenache shiraz blend each year. About 1000 litres of fortified wine has also been produced from fruit grown on the block each year since 2006, but this is unlikely to be released until it has been aged for 15 years and reaches “rare” status. “We’ve been very fortunate to work with a council that’s committed keeping the site and understanding its heritage value, but it’s a labour of love,” says Patritti’s managing director Ines Patritti. “We’re delighted to be part of its journey and it’s also lovely to see how the community has come on board with it - they are very much the vineyard protectors and they let us know when people are in there for any reason.” Patritti’s winemakers James Mungall and Ben Heide have passionately worked with projects manager Matthew Mungall to reinvigorate old grenache and shiraz vines, improving the quality of fruit they produce. The Marion Vineyard is one of only a few commercial urban vineyards left in the world. Patritti recently won the tender to manage the vineyard for another five years. The Marion area is about 12km south of the centre of Adelaide and 10km north of Reynella, where John Reynell produced one of Australia’s first wine vintages in 1842. PARTNERSHIP TO BOOST AWARENESS SPECIAL RUM FOR A SPECIAL PLAYER BRISBANE’S Proud Henry artisan wine bar and ginoteca has BUNDABERG Rum has released a special edition rum honouring partnered with leading Granite Belt wine producer Symphony Hill Queensland rugby league legend Johnathan Thurston. to create an urban cellar door in Fortitude Valley. The JT batch is a collaboration between Thurston and the Symphony Hill is one of the stars of the Queensland wine industry Bundaberg distillers. The limited-edition batch has been and aims to boost awareness of its wines. unveiled to celebrate the career of the legendary former North Queensland Cowboys player following his retirement last year. Three months after a visit to the Granite Belt for his 30th birthday, The PR blurb says the rum was “designed and approved by Ewen Macpherson had enrolled in a viticulture degree and JT himself.” purchased a block of land to start producing wine. With his parents and wife on board, they went about creating a winery that has picked up a swag of awards. “This partnership with Proud Henry is a great step forward for us,” Macpherson said. “We know people love our wines, so providing September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs All bottles are individually numbered. The JT where winemakers Paul and Gilli Lipscombe will produce and sell Batch is available for $59.99 for 700ml (ABV 37 their pinot noir and chardonnay. per cent). The cannery’s aim is to encourage small farm agriculture and Thurston played 332 games in the NRL for small producers from the region by supporting their people and Canterbury Bulldogs and the Cowboys between selling their products. Visit portcygnetcannery.com. 2002-2018, scoring 2222 points. He played 37 times for Queensland and 38 times for Australia. A YOUNG MAKES USE OF OLD FAVOURITES halfback or five-eighth, he won five State of Origin Man of the Match awards and is the all-time leading LOOK out for a new range of wines under the Young & Co label scorer in Origin games. Since retiring he has set up from Constellation Brands. a coaching academy. The range includes three red wines -“The Jam” Shiraz, “Cherry TABLE TALK IN TASSIE Bomb” Pinot Noir and “Berry Riot” Grenache - while a rosé, along with white varietals, will follow later in the year. OFF The Table tours offer a unique opportunity for food lovers to go behind the scenes with some of Tasmania’s top producers. The fruit is sourced from some of the world’s leading wine regions, from McLaren Vale in South Australia to the south of France. Private farms are opening their gates for visitors to pick, taste and savour the paddock-to-plate Tasmanian food experience. Samantha Benney, marketing manager for Young & Co, says: “Research tells us flavour is the No.1 consideration for Go truffle hunting, consumers when they are purchasing alcoholic beverages, learn how to grow a excluding price and promotions. native kitchen garden or harvest organic forest Young & Co is available in BWS stores nationally retails for $25. honey. Experiences include a tour of award- PENINSULA PACKAGE winning Lentara Olive Grove where you can THE Flinders Hotel on the indulge in a tasting tray Mornington Peninsula in of olive oils, dukkah, Victoria is offering a new table olives and olive leaf accommodation package tea. Or take in the 130 aimed at wine lovers. varieties of heirloom tomatoes at Tasmanian Natural Garlic and Tomatoes on their official tomato tour. The day includes a six- The deal for two includes course tomato tasting, highlighting the diversity of each crop. an overnight stay with Tours range in price from $38 to $65 and are held seasonally breakfast, a $60 credit for across Tassie. Visit offthetable.io. Zigis Bar to enjoy cocktails, wines and tapas, and a CANNERY ROW Montalto Vineyard Off The Beaten Track or Perfect THE Huon Valley in Tasmania is set to get a new gourmet hub with Pairing winery experience only a short drive from the hotel. the opening of Port Cygnet Cannery at Port Cygnet. The package costs $285 on Friday nights and $385 on The former apple Saturdays. It is also available to purchase as a gift voucher. cannery on the edge Visit flindershotel.com.au. of Cygnet will be a centre for food, drink and agricultural business in southern Tasmania. The first stage will include a wood-fired eatery, bar, beer garden and space for events. The cannery will also house Sailor Seeks Horse winery, 12 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

briefs DRINKS ON A GLOBAL SCALE PREMIUM PAIRING EVER dreamed of visiting Scotland and doing tastings at ORIGINALLY a hotelier in the 1950s, Bill Taylor Sr was astute some of the finest whisky distilleries on the globe? Or visiting enough to recognise the emerging popularity of table wines, Tasmania to sample local gins, vodkas and brandies? establishing the South Australian Wine Distributors Company. Designed for drinks lovers with a sense of adventure, Lonely The company worked with local wineries and co-ops to tailor a Planet has just published Global Distillery Tour, a fascinating selection of Australian wines to pubs and restaurants throughout guide to distilleries from the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon to Cape Sydney until Bill decided to leave the pub business and jump into Town and on to Tennessee. making premium wines. Since then, Taylors has come a long way in its 50-year history and in recognition of Bill Taylor Sr’s tenacious Lonely Planet’s Global Distillery Tour takes in gin, bourbon and spirit, the company has released the The Hotelier range - a 2018 whisky to vodka, cachaca, tequila and more, recommending Wrattonbully Shiraz and 2018 Clare Valley Pinot Gris. where to go and what to taste at the best distilleries and bars in more 30 countries. Having experimented with Wrattonbully fruit for nearly a decade, Taylors’ chief winemaker Adam Eggins believes, similarly to the Australia is represented in the book by 24 distilleries across Clare, the region’s unique terroir delivers some of the best-value the country, including: New South Wales - Cape Byron shiraz in Australia. Distillery, Archie Rose Distilling Co, Manly Spirits Co, Young Henrys, Husk Distillers. South Australia - Prohibition Liquor The Hotelier range of wines are available for $17.99 from select Company, Twenty Third Street Distillery, Adelaide Hills Distillery, independent retailers. Applewood Distillery, Ambleside Distillery, Kangaroo Island Spirits. Tasmania - Lark Distillery, Hellyers Road Distillery, SYDNEY SHOWCASE Hartshorn Distillery, McHenry Distillery, Old Kempton Distillery, Sullivans Cove Distillery, Shene Estate & Distillery and Victoria SYDNEY’S Tank Stream Hotel is offering diners a Taste of NSW wine - The Whiskery, Timboon Railway Shed, Starward Whisky menu to complement dishes utilising the best of NSW produce. Distillery, Hurdle Creek Still, Bass & Flinders, Four Pillars. Fresh water from the Tank Stream was the reason the NSW colony was Each destination section (think Suntory’s Yamazaki Distillery established at what is now called Sydney Cove - and the Tank Stream in Japan or Iron Balls Distillery in Bangkok) also contains Hotel was developed above the still-flowing stream, which prompted recommendations for top sights and experiences, as well as a the naming of the hotel restaurant, Le Petit Flot (the little stream). special section showcasing the world’s best cocktails. Le Petit Flot’s chefs and restaurant team have designed a special Within each of the 33 countries featured in the book, distilleries set of dishes to showcase the best of the state’s produce, utilising are organised alphabetically by region. wagyu beef rumps from Kilcoy Global Foods in northern NSW, racks of lamb from Junee, pork belly from Braemar and chicken Also included in the distillery entries are a small number of bars that are best-in-class for their selection of one particular drink such as arak in Lebanon or tuak in Malaysia, and for which distilleries are hard to find. Lonely Planet’s Global Distillery Tour costs $29.99. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs from the Southern Highlands. They will be partnered with a new experience Peppers’ renowned style of service, which is always selection of wines from long-established NSW wineries such attentive yet never obtrusive,” he said. “Shadow Play by Peppers as Hungerford Hill and Dalwood Estate, featuring classic local is a landmark hotel with a range of high-end amenities designed Hunter Valley varietals such as semillon, chardonnay and shiraz, to appeal to the city’s increasingly selective global market that is as well as cabernet sauvignon sourced from the cooler Hilltops looking for quality, location and facilities of a world-class calibre. region. “Disappointingly, NSW wines are often ignored by Sydney restaurants, in complete contrast to the attitude of restaurants in “New hotels in key precincts like this play a critical role in other state capitals, where they love to celebrate their local wines promoting a vibrant visitor economy, while meeting the needs of and produce,” says Tank Stream Hotel GM Klaus Kinatader. growing visitor numbers to Melbourne by attracting first-time and returning domestic and international travellers. We’re thrilled to “NSW has outstanding produce and our chefs have come up partner with local developer BPM Corp on this project, which is with an attractive range of dishes to showcase what the state can a win for the economic growth of Melbourne from both a tourism offer, which we are matching with a selection of quality NSW wines and jobs creation perspective.” to provide a rich taste of the State. In the heart of the city and within walking distance to the Eureka “We get a lot of international visitors staying with us and they Skydeck, Melbourne Arts Centre, the National Gallery of Victoria, usually want to try local produce and wines. It is a key part of the Crown Casino, the Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre, travel experience and given that our hotel has such a powerful and the city’s best shopping and dining precincts, Shadow Play connection to the state’s history we thought it was time to celebrate by Peppers is designed as a stylish urban retreat. our premium produce and wines.” To celebrate the official opening, Shadow Play by Peppers is Chief winemaker of Hungerford Hill wines, Bryan Currie, said that offering an opening special from $239 per night in a one-bedroom NSW wines deserved a far higher profile in Sydney restaurants and apartment, including wifi and valet car parking. Shadow Play by congratulated the Tank Stream Hotel for their vision to promote Peppers, 308-320 City Rd, Southbank, Victoria; phone 1300 737 NSW wines. “This is the same vision that I have as a winemaker 444 or visit peppers.com.au/shadow-play. with the complete wine range from both brands entirely sourced from NSW grown fruit,” said Currie. OUT OF THE SHADOWS BURGERS WITH ATTITUDE MELBOURNE has a new luxury hotel - Shadow Play by Peppers A SMALL eatery in a Victorian country town has been hailed as in the city’s thriving Southbank arts and entertainment district. serving some of the best gourmet burgers in Australia. Developed by luxury property Using ethically produced meats and a couple of special developer Jonathan Hallinan of ingredients from the US, Super Lekker should be on the radar of BPM Corp, the 46-storey Shadow every serious burgerphile. Located in Woodend, around an hour Play by Peppers hotel features a north of Melbourne, it sits in the shadows of Mount Macedon. selection of spacious one- and Owners Janet Leung and David Morant boast that they only use two-bedroom apartments with “natural pasture-fed happy cows and free-range chicken.” “avant garde design elements” throughout. In German, Dutch and Afrikaans, Super Lekker means “Super Delicious.” Stand-outs include the Super Lekker ($15) with a The hotel also boasts the beef patty, Istra bacon, cheese, red onion, egg, tomato, lettuce, onsite Edwin Wine Bar & Cellar, pickles, gold mustard and ketchup, and a Burt Reynolds (also along with an array of guest $15) with beef patty, Istra bacon, cheese, smoky barbecue sauce, spaces, including a heated caramelised onion, pickles and American mustard. pool, gymnasium, sauna and steam room, guest lounge and library with an adjoining patio, and an enclosed garden space on the 46th floor complete with a free-standing fireplace and commanding bay views. Accor Apartments & Leases Senior Vice President Operations, Mark Hodge, said he and the team are proud to have officially opened Accor’s second Peppers hotel in Melbourne. “Visitors to Southbank can now 14 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

briefs The Lillie’s sauces, McClure’s pickles and cheese are the secret weapons imported from the US, where they know a thing or two about burgers. The menu also features side dishes, ice creams and drinks. You can eat in, or take away. Super Lekker, 2/99 High St, Woodend, Victoria is open for lunches Saturday-Sunday and Wednesday-Sunday during the evening; phone (03) 5417 6125 or visit superlekker.com.au. ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES room, six premium Brokenwood wines, three white and three red, accompanied by six specially prepared canapes. The experience ICONIC Hunter Valley winery Brokenwood is the latest addition to continues with an exclusive behind the scenes tour of the winery the Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia collection. to gain an insight into all aspects of winemaking, and delve deep into the history of Brokenwood Wines, before finally an opportunity Brokenwood completed construction of a stunning new cellar door at to taste pre-release Brokenwood wine straight from the barrel. the end of 2018, featuring circular tasting pods, an expansive outdoor terrace with views over the Hunter Valley, private tasting and dining The VIP Soil to Cellar Experience is an opportunity to gain rooms, as well as a wine museum overlooking the working barrel hall. exclusive access to one of Australia’s most iconic vineyards and taste Brokenwood’s flagship Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz, while Kate Shilling, executive officer of UWEA said: “This partnership enjoying a unique and personalised soil-to-cellar experience. On comes at the perfect time for us as we hone our premium arrival, guests will be greeted by a personal host for a guided tasting offering in the Hunter Valley. Brokenwood is the ideal fit as we of premium Brokenwood semillon matched with three individually develop new wine trails and combine winery experiences with garnished oysters from The Wood Restaurant. A detailed tour of the everything from accommodation to helicopter transfers. There are winery follows to learn the secrets of wine production before taking exciting possibilities in the pipeline and we look forward to more a closer look at the exceptional Graveyard Shiraz vines. Next, a fine announcements in the not too distant future.” dining experience seated in the private dining room with a locally sourced four-course degustation lunch, with expertly matched Established in 1970, Brokenwood Wines has become one of award-winning Brokenwood wines. The experience concludes with Australia’s most famous wine labels. It is home to the famous a gourmet grazing charcuterie platter among the wine barrels in the Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz, the highly acclaimed ILR Reserve Barrel Hall sampling Brokenwood’s pre-release Graveyard Vineyard Semillon, and the popular Cricket Pitch range. Shiraz and presentation of a bottle to take home. Brokenwood’s new cellar door is the largest complex in the Hunter The UWEA group of wineries is now 22 strong, with representation Valley wine region, covering 1400 square metres. Also on-site, casual in most of Australia’s renowned wine regions across six states. eatery Cru Bar + Pantry is open for breakfast, lunch and snacks In NSW: Audrey Wilkinson and Brokenwood in the Hunter every day, serving homemade pies, toasties, wood-fired pizzas and Valley; Victoria: De Bortoli in the Yarra Valley, Pizzini Wines and cheese and charcuterie platters and wine by the glass or bottle. Brown Brothers in the King Valley, Montalto on the Mornington Peninsula and Tahbilk in Nagambie Lakes; South Australia: Magill The modern dining room, The Wood Restaurant, offers a Estate, Yalumba in the Eden Valley, Jacob’s Creek, St Hugo and contemporary fine dining experience with a strong focus on seafood. Seppeltsfield in the Barossa Valley, d’Arenberg, Gemtree and Wirra Wines in McLaren Vale; Tasmania: Moorilla Estate and Josef Managing director and chief winemaker Iain Riggs AM said: “This Chromy Wines; WA: Leeuwin Estate, Vasse Felix and Voyager is a great opportunity for us to capitalise on the new facilities and Estate in Margaret River and Mandoon Estate in the Swan Valley, visitor experience we’ve developed at Brokenwood. We can’t wait and Queensland: Sirromet, producing wines from the Granite Belt to welcome more visitors from near and far and look forward to region. Visit ultimatewineryexperiences.com.au/experiences. working with UWEA to build on our range of experiences.” Two immersive Ultimate Winery Experiences are currently available at Brokenwood: The Brokenwood Journey is an introduction to Brokenwood and its range of premium wines. The journey begins with an intimate tasting in the private tasting September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefs CELLAR STARS Wine Show judging in September would be one of the first major events held at the cellar. THE finishing touches have been applied to a world-class cellar project that aims to showcase Australia’s premier wine region He said operating out of a building that had Barossa wine at to the global wine industry. its very heart was “tremendously exciting”. “Having a purpose built facility to showcase the Barossa wine and grape story to The Barossa Grape and Wine Association has moved its the world will be huge,” March said. “There are other buildings offices into the Barossa Cellar building alongside thousands that do share similarities in Spain and Italy, but this is something of bottles of rare wines from the famous region. The $4.5 where the Barossa is leading from the front in Australia as far million project is being driven by the Barons of Barossa, a as we’re aware”. group of high-profile wine industry personalities who bought the 3ha greenfield site between the townships of Tanunda and South Australia is consistently responsible for about 50 per Angaston in 2016. cent of Australia’s total annual production and about 75 per cent of its premium wine. The building has been built into the side of a hill with the cellar section effectively underground and the offices positioned A DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN towards the front of the building overlooking the valley to the west. THE contribution of Dr Tony Jordan OAM to the Australian wine The Grand Hall, running through the centre of the building, industry has been recognised in two recent awards. can seat 100 guests or be divided into three separate sections for smaller industry workshops, meetings or tastings. Over his distinguished career, Dr Jordan has been an influential and determined advocate for the advancement of The Barons of Barossa formed in 1975 and built its collection Australian wine as a winemaker, researcher, mentor, wine show from annual wine donations from local companies. Their judge and wine sector leader. 3000-bottle collection includes wines more than 20 years old from iconic Barossa wineries such as Henschke, Yalumba, He was crucial to the establishment of the wine science Rockford, Greenock Creek, Penfolds, Peter Lehmann and program at Charles Sturt University in the 1970s, influencing Grant Burge. modern Australian wine practices. The Barons’ museum wine collection will be displayed in He has chaired Australian wine shows and judged shows the wine vault, lined in donated stone giving the feeling of a internationally, is a former president of the Australian Society French cave, on shelves made from American oak donated of Viticulture and Oenology (ASVO) and the Yarra Valley Wine by AP John Coopers while a second, larger cellar, will store Growers Association and was a board member of the Wine up 36,000 bottles of the commercial wine the Barons sell to Australia Corporation for six years. fund their operations. The Barossa Cellar Committee chairman and Barossa Baron James Wark said the stonework gave the Dr Jordan has also provided many years of valuable building a natural look that reflected the region’s rugged beauty. consultation on winemaking, viticulture and wine business practices to companies in Australia, New Zealand and Europe, “We love the colour, the texture and the earthiness of it and through his company when the sun shines on it, it’s just magical,” he said. Oenotec. “One of the initiating factors for this project was that the Barons He was awarded of the Barossa have got this great collection of wines but we Life Membership didn’t have anywhere to store it so we originally said we’ll just of the Australian build a cellar but then we decided that it was just crazy to have Wine Industry by a storage cellar and not use it for something.” Australian Grape & Wine in recognition One of the main fundraising strategies for the project is the of his significant sale of about 1800 shiraz vines that will be planted at the site contribution to the in October. About 450 of the vines have been sold so far for Australian wine $1000 each. The vines have been propagated at Yalumba’s sector. nursery and come from cuttings donated from 30 of the region’s top shiraz vineyards. Wine Australia has also inaugurated The Barossa Information Centre will remain in the Tanunda the Dr Tony Jordan main street and The Barossa Cellar, which will not be open to OAM Award, an the public, will have an industry focus. Events at The Barossa annual award for the Cellar will likely include training workshops, vertical tastings most outstanding for international wine dignitaries and industry group meetings. Wine Australia PhD BGWA chief executive officer James March said the Barossa 16 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

briefs scholarship applicant that will provide the recipient with a stipend of up to $40,000 annually to support their studies. ‘Given Tony’s focus on excellence throughout his career and his strong support of students and research, it is fitting that the Dr Tony Jordan OAM Award will recognise and support academic excellence’, said Brian Walsh, Chair of Wine Australia. SHOWCASING SOUTH COAST FARE THE picturesque township of Berry on the New South Wales south coast is the venue for the inaugural South Coast Food & Wine Festival. The three-day event (September 13-15) aims to showcase the best the south coast has to offer. There will be over 15 events, including cooking classes, demos and tastings from local hero chefs, hatted restaurants hosting pop-ups, tastings at south coast vineyards and local food producers supported by an array of free live music and entertainment. The festival’s culinary offerings will be made up of 100 per cent south coast producers and products, with over 50 stallholders expected to be showcasing delicacies from all over the region. Seafood, cheese, berries, wines and much more will be on offer. A signature event will be the Long Lunch on September 14. Kierrin McKnight, head chef and owner of Wild Ginger and previously of Seagrass Brasserie will be showcasing local produce with a six-course, feast style menu featuring local produce in each course complemented by local wines and beers. Tickets to the South Coast Food & Wine Festival cost $28 per person and are on sale at southcoastfoodandwinefestival.com.au. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 17

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW NZ WINE SOCIETY CLOSES BE QUICK AFTER 30 years in the local marketplace, direct sales retailer New AS covered in detail the previous issue, NZ’s 2019 vintage is generating Zealand Wine Society is being closed by its owner Woolworths. much excitement. Wine drinkers may need to be quick, however, as Though not a high volume dealer, the NZ Wine Society had the recent NZ Winegrowers vintage report also shows it was smaller developed a loyal following of members, many of whom had than average - and at 419,000 tonnes harvested it was also the third been purchasing wines chosen by long-time cellar director Vic in a row to deliver less than the expected tonnage. With export growth Williams for decades. A pioneer at the time of its launch, the increasing 4 per cent to $1.78 billion in the past year across 100 fast-changing retail landscape has seen numerous competitors countries, producers will be working carefully to manage demand emerge over the years. Woolworths also owns the Countdown in their markets. To give some perspective on the NZ crush, while range of supermarkets in NZ and its digital GM Sally Copland said Australia’s 2019 yield figures are yet to be released, it is expected to it would be working with NZ Wine Society’s staff to find them “other be slightly less than the 1.79m tonnes harvested in 2018. opportunities within the wider business as appropriate.” Copland added: “This brings with it an opportunity to change and refresh our SUPPLY AND DEMAND customer offer…we look forward to sharing details of the change with our NZ Wine Society customers over the next few weeks.” GIVEN the Marlborough region’s dominance within NZ wine (it crushed 313,000 of 2019’s 419,000 tonnes, 85 per cent of which INDUSTRY EFFORTS RECOGNISED was sauvignon blanc) it seems logical that a focus of the recent PriceWaterhouseCoopers Strategic Review was on the issue of supply, TWO long-standing names in the New Zealand wine industry have namely - when will Marlborough be fully planted? NZ’s cool climate been recognised for their services. Wine writer and educator Bob and rugged geography ensure that commercially viable viticultural Campbell MW was made an Officer of the New Zealand Order limits can only be extended so far before frost, terrain or water supply of Merit in the 2019 Queen’s Birthday Honour list. He is perhaps restrictions exercise dominion. The PWC report states that there is likely one of NZ’s most recognised wine names via his 45-year career just some 5000ha of productive land remaining, which is expected to in wine. Having made the perhaps understandable move from the be planted out within the next five-six years, with supply limits reached accountancy department at Montana Wines to writing about and around three years after that. As noted above, NZ exports are riding reviewing wines back in 1986, Campbell still retains a love of and high with growth being driven largely by demand for sauvignon blanc flair for numbers, and with his keen eye for the absurd can always from the US market, so reaching peak production with rising/steady be relied upon to produce fascinating and amusing (if at times demand may seem likely to produce positive upward pressure on obscure) wine statistics. He was inducted into the New Zealand pricing. However, the wider NZ industry is acutely conscious of having Wine Hall of Fame in 2013 and this year was joined by Hunter’s all its eggs in the Marlborough sauvignon blanc basket. Establishing Wines owner and managing director Jane Hunter. After the tragic markets and volume for a wider range of varieties and regions has death of her husband Ernie in 1987, Jane has not only taken Hunter’s long been a focus for both producers and New Zealand Winegrowers, from a pioneering Marlborough winery to a major producer but has but for now Marlborough sauvignon blanc remains NZ’s vinous calling also been a tireless, inspiring leader for industry development and card, maintaining good growth and premium pricing in its markets. The numerous charities as well as generous mentor to many. PWC study has a range of suggestions for maintaining this situation, none of which are likely to be revelations to the industry, nor are they MAKING THE MOST OF A REGIONAL necessarily easily implemented, but it’s fair to say this is an area in REPUTATION which all interested parties are keeping a keen eye. APPELLATION Marlborough Wine’s new website has launched at CELEBRATING ALL THINGS PINOT www.appellationmarlboroughwine.co.nz. The initiative now has a diverse industry cross-section of 45 wineries signed up, and 30 EVERY four years NZ hosts an entertaining and illuminating three- wines from the 2018 vintage sporting its logo. AMW wines must day celebration of the country’s pre-eminent red variety, pinot noir. be made from 100 per cent Marlborough grapes, be bottled in Since 2001 these have been held in the nation’s capital, Wellington, NZ, crop at or under stipulated levels and be harvested from but for Pinot 2021 it is Christchurch’s turn to take on the revelry. vineyards certified as sustainable. As Dog Point Vineyard owner The Garden City’s rebuilt CBD and thriving hospitality scene will and AMW founding chair Ivan Sutherland says: “Appellation undoubtedly offer a wonderful backdrop to what is a sell-out event Marlborough Wine is about protecting the reputation this region in the NZ wine calendar. To be held February 23-25, Pinot 2021 has worked hard to build. It provides the wine buying public of will showcase not only NZ pinot noir’s ever-evolving and highly the world with an assurance they can see and trust. Marlborough regarded regional diversity but also international wines across makes extraordinary wines that have put this region on the map. numerous tastings and workshops, plus a thought-provoking array Appellation Marlborough Wine is an important step to make sure of local and international speakers. And of course, the conference’s we stay there.” usual inspired hospitality program will certainly deliver the best Christchurch has to offer. See pinotnz.co.nz for further details. 18 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

New Zealand’s Most Trusted & Admired Wine Brand George, Founder, Owner September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 19

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW RESTORING REPUTATIONS IN the drive towards greater emphasis on wines of a region (think Chianti Classico elevation, different vine training systems terroir, sense and uniqueness of vinous DOCG) - a separate DOCG was created and soils. It’s certainly not the case that place, many European regions have that, while it did include the Classico area, particular patches of hill slopes are long been exploring and evolving ways it also included other hillside sites from “suddenly” being regarded as high quality. to incorporate notions of differing quality outside the original zone. And it was named Top producers have been bottling their and vineyard specificity into appellation Soave Superiore DOCG. While yields must single vineyard sites for many years in structures that are now often a few or many necessarily be considerably lower for some cases. But, now, these sites have decades old. Soave, in the north-east DOCG, “superiore” opens up confusion, legal protection. As for the whittling down, of Italy just east of Verona, is one such because in Italian vinous terms “superiore” Aldo Lorenzoni, the director of the Soave location that earlier this year announced, often means a wine has 0.5 to 1 per cent Consorzio (oversight body) said: “the after a near 20-year viticultural research more alcohol (ripeness). This meant the need to simplify matured over time as we and zoning project, the recognition of 33 pondered the best possible path to clearly “crus,” or single vineyards, whittled down But high quality convey different expressions of the territory from a long list of around 60 possibles. for the producers of Soave.” producers continued Soave is one of those regions that Not all the 33 come from within the expanded rapidly in the 1960s to meet their high quality furrow, Classico zone, which would have been a rapidly increased demand, and stretched simple option. However, all 33 are located yields to make enough wine. Vineyards and over the last 30 in the hillside areas. Almost all are in the spilled off the defined - since 1927 - hilly, Classico zone, but a few are located in the Classico heartland on to flatter, lower-lying years, Soave has been other hillside areas outside of Classico. alluvial plains. As a result, the total Soave (These other hillside sites actually have DOC appellation now covers around working to improve its their own appellation - Soave Colli 7000 hectares, considerably larger than Scaligeri DOC.) the 1500-ish hectares of original hillside poor quality image. Classico, and quality is hugely variable. Perhaps, surprisingly, nearly 40 per Classico zone remained Soave Classico cent of Soave’s approximately 7000ha of Thus, many people’s idea of Soave is of DOC (no hierarchy-apex “G”). For this vineyards are now classified as crus. That rather ordinary, innocuous, white wine. But reason the DOCG seems not to have been covers an area not far distant from the high quality producers continued their high that widely adopted by key producers, as size of the classed growths of Bordeaux, quality furrow, and over the last 30 years, they continue to use the Classico name though they represent only a 2 or 3 per Soave has been working to improve its (with lower appellation status), and from cent of the Bordeaux vineyards (about poor quality image. This means that both self- and site-managed lower yields. Soave 112,000 ha). Lorenzoni emphasised ordinary and extraordinary wines appear, Superiore DOCG production is only 1-2 per firstly that the 40 per cent corresponds with the same appellation. cent of Soave Classico DOC. to “where companies can produce Soave Superiore DOCG”, so matching up to The first step in this reputation restoration On to this rather inconsistent backdrop the nominally top level appellation, and process was the creation of a DOCG in have been added these newly-recognised secondly that it “does not mean that 40 2002. DOCG is the highest quality moniker 33 crus. The “Vigne de Soave” research per cent of the Soave DOC will be labelled in Italy under European Union wine law. project investigated viticulturally important with a (cru).” He put the whole thing in But rather than apply the DOCG to the conditions, including aspect, gradient, perspective, saying: “we are hoping that Classico area - that area historically proven when we arrive at full implementation that to produce some of the highest quality 20 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

we might arrive at roughly 500-700ha is that all Soave is made mostly from Perfectly (or 10 per cent of the denomination)” garganega, the best sometimes entirely balanced. of cru vineyards, which seems a more from garganega, which can give great reasonable ambition. character, volume and intensity in its DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, wines, when yields are properly restricted. yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”. However, having worked on this project It’s a rather high acid grape variety which Our bold service offering is built on for nearly 20 years, while the name of the provides a refreshing spine. The best a full-bodied foundation of vast cru will be on the label, there is apparently are intensely floral - orange blossom, general commercial experience, yet going to be no identifier on the label to acacia, elderflower, honeysuckle. Fruit overlaid with distinctive specialist denote a recognised cru. These crus are notes include lemon, pear, peach, and expertise in a number of key legally defined as “geographic units” or flavours can be tangy and delicately industries and niche market “unita geografiche” but these words are spicy, sometimes with a fine herbal twist. sectors. not due to appear on the label, which A fresh almond note on the finish is entirely It’s a winning combination that might have helped consumers search them typical. Lees ageing offers additional allows every client who opens a out. Also, non-official-cru vineyard names notes of honey, sweet pastry and a “case” to get exactly what they continue to exist. Obvious omissions from creamy sensation. Top Soave garganega need. So whatever your business the 33 include “Calvarino,” the first bottling expresses concentration, textural richness, or legal objectives, don’t hesitate of which Pieropan made in 1971, and La acidic freshness and intense fruit flavours. to contact us. Rocca, which dates from 1978. About these At DW Fox Tucker, every Lorenzoni said: “La Rocca, Calvarino and In terms of finding these crus, the client matters. Montetondo, despite being very famous bottom line is probably to look for Soave single vineyards produced and protected Classico DOC, before thinking about L14, 100 King William Street by trademark by well-known wineries, are Soave Superiore DOCG. Then 29 of those Adelaide SA 5000 names that cannot be used or shared by 33 crus lie within the Classico zone. But p: +61 8 8124 1811 other wineries.” So no monopole vineyards the name on the label might be a cru, or are officially allowed. another well-established vineyard name. e: [email protected] Sadly, there are few shortcuts. dwfoxtucker.com.au Assuming we’ve understood thus far, what do these different crus offer to wine The 33 crus are: Castelcerino, COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES drinkers? Another level to tease apart Colombara, Frosca, Fitta, Foscarino, ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY is about Soave’s underlying geologies. Volpare, Tremenalto, Carbonare, Tent, Limestone underpins about a third of the Corte Durlo, Rugate, Croce, Costalunga, INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY Classico zone, and is said to produce Coste, Zoppega, Menini, Monte Grande, RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES fuller, rounder wines. Other parts are Ca ‘del Vento, Castellaro, Pressoni, SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS volcanic basalt, producing fresh, steelier Broia, Brognoligo, Costalta, Paradiso, COMPENSATION expressions. Add on to that the usual Costeggiola, Casarsa, Monte di Colognola, wondering whether it’s possible to taste Campagnola, Pigno, Duello, Sengialta, differences in the minutiae of aspect, Ponsarà and Ronca - Monte Calvarina. slope, altitude and producer winemaking philosophy. Actually, it is a very exciting time to be exploring top quality Soave. The unifying feature among all of this September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 21 DWFT 2364 - DWFT_WS_Vert 59x270_Novemeber 2017.2in1/d1d1/21017 2:08:46 PM

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY FADS AND FASHIONS IN 1992 a paper presented at the annual as “sweaty” and “grubby,” which brings pinot gris/pinot grigio. So I was interested to Australian Society of Wine Educators up the point that a sulphur aroma was and look at aromas in the wine show comments. Conference analysed the common aroma still is classified as a wine fault. The key to A clear favourite was pear, followed by descriptors used by journalists. It looked sulphide wines is a case of measures. A fennel seed, although I think this was at the major grape varieties - riesling, little sulphur can add complexity as long as skewed by a couple of judges applying sauvignon blanc, semillon, chardonnay there are other aromas present. Too much this term to many samples. Unfortunately, pinot noir, merlot, cabernet sauvignon sulphur and you start to get unwanted, sulphur came up frequently and this is not and shiraz. The list is a useful teaching clearly faulty, aromas such as rotten eggs an aroma that is wanted in this variety. Pinot tool to help novice tasters look for the (hydrogen sulphide), rubber, or cabbage/ gris/grigio brought up some of the strangest right descriptors. But over time have onion (mercaptan). tasting notes from judges such as “rubber these descriptors changed? What was gloves”, “tinned pineapple” and one wine fashionable in 1992 might not stack up In 1992 the most which had an “odd vomitty (sic) palate”. in 2019. This might indicate the presence of butyric common descriptors for acid that has a rancid or baby vomit aroma. Recently I was reading the tasting notes It is thought that this acid is associated with of wine judges from a major Australian chardonnay were melon, a bacterial growth or over enthusiastic use wine show over a three-year period so it of malo-lactic fermentation. was an opportunity to check if the aroma peach, fig, buttery and descriptors have changed. Turning my attention to shiraz, I had a butterscotch, followed by casual 1600 tasting notes to analyse. In In 1992 the most common descriptors for 1992 the most common aroma descriptor chardonnay were melon, peach, fig, buttery honey, nutty, pineapple, was spicy, followed by licorice, chocolate, and butterscotch, followed by honey, nutty, black pepper, earthy, pepper, blackberry, pineapple, toasty and mango. Reviewing toasty and mango. cloves, stalky, mint, plum and raspberry some 500 tasting notes from the wine rounding off the top 12. In the recent show revealed that peach just narrowly Coming in at number six on the list is shows spicy was indeed the favourite beat lemon as the most common aroma reductive. This may also be a reference expression by far, scoring double the descriptor. You must go down to number to sulphur aromas being present and next most popular descriptor. Following 16 in the rankings to find lemon in the 1992 indicates the wine has been kept in spicy was a number of fruit aromas - red list. The popularity of lemon indicates that anaerobic conditions - basically it is the fruits, berry, plum, cherry. Chocolate was our current chardonnays are lighter and opposite to oxidation. Sometimes a lack sixth and pepper came in at number more acidic, as it is a term that is often of aroma or a closed nose is a sign of eight. Interestingly, reductive and brett used for lighter-bodied, crisper styles such reduction. (brettanomyces) were in the top 12. as riesling. But what is more interesting is Mint and licorice were 13th and 14th the third most common aroma found in Running down the list, the first mention of respectively. So what does this say chardonnay - sulphide. any buttery notes comes finally at number about the style? Well, spice is open to 10 with the word “creamy” indicating interpretation and is a cluster heading Sulphide indicates the presence of sulphur malolactic fermentation or new oak notes. rather than a definite smell. It could mean on the nose. It can also be described as Down the list there are some interesting black or white pepper which are very a struck match, which appears as number descriptors such as charcuterie, bacon different, or a sweeter nutmeg or cinnamon nine on the list of 61 aromas. The use of bones and chippy, which all indicate a aroma, or it could indicate the aroma of sulphide needs to be put into context. Some heavy-handed oak treatment. cloves. Spice and clove can be derived wine judges commented on them “doing from eugenol and isoeugenol, which are their work” and providing “gorgeous subtle What wasn’t on the radar in 1992 was found in oak barrels, especially ones that complexity” or adding to the “complexity of the nose,” however some were described 22 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

Sydney’s best location, minutes from anywhere. have well-seasoned staves. The wines of The York by Swiss-Belhotel 1992 definitely seemed to be more savoury 5 York Street, Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia driven. Looking at the recent tastings and Tel: +61 2 9210 5000 combining the red fruit aromas they easily E-mail: [email protected] outscore spice. So it is safe to say that the swiss-belhotel.com shiraz of today are more red fruit driven. Perhaps simpler? One term that has entered our tasting language is “jubey” taken from the fruit jelly/lolly jube, therefore indicating very ripe, fruity aromas and taste, often confectionary. Also our love of abbreviating names in Australia is not limited to our politicians names as we have adopted “oxy” as a term to indicate oxidation. Finally, caber net sauvignon was analysed. In 1992 the top descriptors were cassis/blackcurrant combined, followed by capsicum, mint, eucalyptus, chocolate, blackberry, tobacco, leafy, grassy, cigar, herbaceous and stalky. In the tasting notes red fruits was the commonest descriptor followed by mint, green, leafy, berry, herbaceous, cassis, brett, menthol, cedar, vanilla and black fruits. Picking the eyes out of these results shows we still have that fruit vs herbaceous split with cabernet sauvignon. Green is probably a reference to the palate hardness of the tannins and acidity rather than the aromas, although it could still indicate an herbal edge as there were only three tasting notes that mentioned capsicum, which was the second most common aroma in 1992. Again it points to our wines being more fruit forward with red fruits rather than black fruit aromas. Brett making it into the top 12 should not sound warning bells as statistically it was only occurring in 2 per cent of wine, that was lovingly described as “sweaty saddle” in 1992. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 23

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING THIRSTY WORK THE Guinness Storehouse in Dublin is New copper stills were installed in 2017 you can sample over 400 wines from all one of Ireland’s most popular tourist and the company - badged by a phoenix over the world - a hefty 100 by the glass. attractions. Even if you have experienced atop a pot still - exports to 44 countries. Live jazz keeps things buzzy and the the tour before, pulled a pint and inhaled Located in Market Square in Dublin, Eastern European-inspired menu boasts a deep whiff of roasting barley, it’s still an there’s nothing like sipping a Teeling a quartet of caviars. unmissable stop on repeat visits to the Single Grain, matured in former cabernet Irish capital. The glass-walled Gravity sauvignon barrels, or Teeling The Revival Most visitors start their exploration of Bar on the top level offers the best 13-year-old, matured in former bourbon Dublin in the Temple Bar district, famous 360-degree view of the city. casks for 12 years and finished in ex- for its cobbled streets and cultural calvados casks for a year. attractions. Located in the quaintly named But as a veteran of the Jameson’s Cow Lane you’ll find Piglet. The focus whiskey tour, I decided to check out the Another global here is Italian wines and nibbles, and the Teeling Distillery. The first new whiskey salamis and cheeses are powerful lures distillery to open in Dublin in 125 years, phenomenon that has for the locals. the facility was established by Jack and Stephen Teeling in 2015. The Teeling caught on with vigour in If French bottlings are more to your taste, family has been involved in making the head for La Cave on South Anne St. The “hard stuff” since 1782, when one of its Dublin is craft cocktails, 350 labels on offer include a large swathe forebears, Walter Teeling, set up a distillery of French names, but there’s plenty of in the Liberties area, once known as which is a bit of a relief international competition and over 40 the “golden triangle” because so many wines are available by the glass. A flight distilleries were once located there. for anyone who can only of stairs from street level descends into a Moulin Rouge-style interior and La Cave John Teeling, the father of Jack and drink so much beer, also runs a wine school for professionals Stephen, revived the ancestral interest in and keen amateurs. whiskey by founding the Cooley Distillery stout and whiskey. in County Louth in 1989. It was sold to A well-edited line-up of Spanish and Beam Inc in 2011, but as part of the deal Irish pubs can be found all over the Portuguese wines is the drawcard at the the Teelings received 16,000 casks of world from Sydney to Seoul. But Dublin’s Port House Pintxo, also in Temple Bar, aged whiskey as the founding stock of energetic, multicultural vibe has birthed which ramps up the cosiness with a warm, the Teeling Distillery. a clutch of wine bars that don’t fit the candle lit decor. Bagots Hutton Wine international cookie cutter mould. Olesya’s Emporium on Ormond Quay is located in The Teeling Distillery has become a on Exchequer St should be your first port the former premises of a wine merchant must-do for whiskey lovers. The reason? of call. Billing itself as a Russian wine bar, of the same name, who was based here Even though it’s only four years old, the from 1829 to the 1980s. Centre-stage of small batch, single grain and single Dublin’s so-called Hipster Triangle, it’s an malt whiskies have been major award inviting space brimming with Chesterfield winners at the World Whiskies Awards. leather sofas and good deals. There’s an 24 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. aperitivo hour and Meaty Mondays and beer, stout and whiskey. There’s also a Connect on social with Cheesy Tuesdays. Translation: you get strong push to showcase the potential of Winestate a complimentary meat or cheese platter Irish spirits as mixers. In early 2018, the when you order a bottle of wine. Teeling Distillery opened a second bar www.facebook.com/Winestate- called the Finishing Room specialising in Magazine The original Ely, just off St Stephen’s contemporary cocktails with the Irish touch. Green, upgraded the wine bar concept twitter.com/winestateed in Dublin in the 1990s. The menu listings The Chelsea Drugstore, a trendy cocktail www.instagram.com/winestate/ sparkle with ingredients from the family bar based in an old pharmacy in Great farm in County Clare and there’s a George’s St South, is packed on weekends www.winestate.com.au second outpost on the other side of as the bartenders demonstrate their skills in the River Liffey. Both offer wine tasting shaking and chatting about their inventive evenings and cooking classes, and mixed drinks. It’s also first come, first served you can also buy Ely’s award-winning at the Sidecar Bar in the Westbury Hotel, cookbook. Slap bang in the middle of St with its 1930s ambience and Donegal Stephen’s Green is a sculpture by Henry tweed throws. Other cocktail bars to pull up Moore dedicated to W.B. Yeats. Nestled a stool at include: The Liquor Rooms, The behind nearby St Patrick’s cathedral, Blind Pig and the Peruke and Periwig. But you’ll find Marsh’s Library. Dating back to if you’re on a driving tour through Ireland, the early 18th century, it’s Ireland’s oldest head for Cask in Cork City, the winner of the public library and contains a treasure Best Overall Cocktail Bar 2018 award from trove of 25,000 volumes from the 16th, the Irish Craft Cocktail Association. 17th and 18th centuries. Craft beer has become a surging trend in Dublin as it has everywhere else around the world. One of the best places to slake your thirst and sample some of the best brews is The Headline in Lower Clanbrassil St. There’s a huge range of Irish beers and a top notch gin bar. The friendly staff will guide you through the bottled and rotating tap options. Another global phenomenon that has caught on with vigour in Dublin is craft cocktails, which is a bit of a relief for anyone who can only drink so much September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 25

AN IMPORTANT EVENT FOR THE AUSTRALIAN WINE INDUSTRY Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia, October 10 - 12, 2019 THE ANNUAL Wine Media Conference will or written articles that will drive tourism. so years. With the advent of blogging, take place October 10 – 12 in the Hunter • The conference content is specifically “citizen” journalists in the form of bloggers Valley, NSW, the first time the conference became prevalent and started attracting has ever been located outside North tailored to wine industry members and not readers. In the wine industry, thousands of America in its twelve years of operation. just media. Content includes sessions on individuals around the world started wine digital marketing, working with the media, blogs, grew their communities, engaged in The Wine Media Conference will host and automating engagement with your social media, and became relevant to the approximately 150 attendees, including community. A sample session for industry wine industry. both wine media and wine industry is “Selling More Wine With Less Effort”. communicators. The conference has Any one blog might not have a huge had over 50 North American wine writers • There are sponsorship opportunities following but can still wield influence. registered to attend since last fall when for wineries who wish to get their wines “The reason wine blogs are important to the location was announced. Another two and message in front of these critical the industry is that bloggers are seen as dozen Australian media are registered “influencers”. independent and passionate about the to attend. subject,” explains Wright of the conference. The Wine Media Conference was started “If a wine blogger in Chicago writes only Wineries and other wine industry in 2008 as the Wine Bloggers Conference about Pinot Noir and has 20,000 followers, companies in Australia should pay but underwent a name change last fall to that might not seem like a large number but attention to the Wine Media Conference more accurately reflect the attendance. those 20,000 consumers care about what for several reasons: “Not only did we have non-blogging wine that blogger has to say.” media attending,” explained conference • Attending the conference is a great organizer Allan Wright, “but the reality This power of “micro-influencers” is opportunity to meet these wine writers is most traditional wine journalists also well discussed in marketing circles. from Australia and abroad. Even wineries engage in social media and many wine Companies in many industries now send that do not export to North America can bloggers also write for other outlets.” their marketing dollars towards these benefit by making contacts that might media with small audiences rather than pay off in terms of social media exposure Essentially, the lines defining who is “media’ have blurred over the past 15 or 26 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

towards traditional print publications paid assignment with a major magazine is session including wine tasting to attendees. because they are seeing a bigger impact very likely to have their own website, social Another event is a Live Wine Social, from these relationships. media accounts, and even e-newsletters. which is similar to speed dating. Wineries That means he or she is just as interested pour wines for a table of attendees who This influence is showcased at a in these marketing and communications have five minutes to evaluate and ideally conference when many influencers and skills as the winery in the next wine region.” write about the wines on social media. A traditional media come together. One traditional Expo also takes place during blogger with a loyal following of 20,000 is In addition to content, attending media the conference. magnified when there are 100 of those folks come to network with each other and with in the same room. the industry attendees. Often times, writers Wright elected to move the Wine Media are aware of and communicate with each Conference to Australia for a number of “When is Australia ever going to see 50 other but rarely meet face to face. The reasons. “We had great support from wine writers come to its shores from North Wine Media Conference provides this our local partners, including a grant America all at one time?” queries Wright. opportunity via its annual meeting. administered by Wine Australia,” explains Wright. “But more importantly, we wanted to From the attendees’ viewpoint, the Wine Finally, the conference provides insight give our North American alumni the chance Media Conference serves a number into a new wine region and new wines. to attend the conference in an exciting wine of purposes. First and foremost, the “Moving the conference year after year region far from their homes and also give conference provides education and is not easy,” exclaims Wright. “But it Australian media the opportunity to attend learning. As a professional event, the also provides great benefits to our loyal without such a long trip.” conference has many hours of classroom attendees who want to see new wine content with subjects focused on writing, regions they might never have visited.” The Wine Media Conference will likely social media, videography, photography, move back to North America next year, and much more. There are many wine pouring opportunities so jump on board now and get involved at the conference. Some include content by registering for or sponsoring the “The modern day wine writer is essentially sessions, in which companies such as conference. his or her own business person,” claims Pernod Ricard will present an educational Wright. “Even a traditional writer who has a September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 27

ALCOHOL “ The study took people cardiovascular disease and diabetes, a variety of cancers, liver and pancreatic who were non-drinkers, compared to those who disease, neurological disorders, a variety of infections, along with accidents and violence. consumed only one alcoholic drink per day over I would like to take a somewhat different ”a 12-month period. view of these statistics and the entire issue of alcohol consumption. Firstly, and DR ROSS WALKER most importantly, no one benefits from the excessive consumption of alcohol, apart from Over the past few decades there have been between countries with a rather healthy people who own hotels or liquor stores. There a variety of studies suggesting alcohol, place like Denmark having over 95% of the is no doubt that the regular consumption of in all its variety of delivery systems, is adult population consuming alcohol on a four or more standard drinks per day for a anything from a definite cellular poison regular basis whereas in Muslim countries male and half that for a female is associated that should be avoided, to a substance such as Bangladesh and Pakistan have with increasing health problems, such as taken in low doses which may even have an expected less than 1% of people who those mentioned above. Therefore, we a health benefit. consume alcohol regularly. should not see the evidence that consuming low dose alcohol may have some benefit as With so many of the contradictory health The study took people who were an excuse for heavy or binge drinking. messages over the years for a variety of non-drinkers, compared to those who substances and treatments, you would consumed only one alcoholic drink per Secondly, it is my opinion that it is not just be forgiven for being sceptical and day over a 12-month period. The analysis the alcohol but “who the alcohol is hanging somewhat confused. suggested that for every daily alcoholic around with” that contributes to the health beverage consumed there was a 0.5% disorders. What I am inferring here is that A recent study published in the Lancet increase in the health problems related to you can’t consume an unhealthy diet and adds more to this confusion suggesting alcohol consumption. In real terms, over expect two glasses of alcohol will afford the only safe intake of alcohol is none the course of a year, the 23 separate health you some health benefit. For example, if whatsoever. The introduction to the study problems related to alcohol consumption you look at the data from areas of America suggests that alcohol is responsible for 3 were increased from 914/100,000 for the where a poor diet is consumed, there is million deaths around the planet on a yearly abstainers from alcohol to 918/100,000 for no benefit from consuming alcohol and basis and is the leading cause of death for those that drink one alcoholic beverage a possible detriment. But, for example, in people in the 15 to 50 age group, causing daily (hardly earth shattering statistics to a more affluent area such as Boston, The around 12% of deaths especially in males. strike fear in the hearts & other organs of Male Physician’s trial demonstrated around moderate drinkers). an 80% reduction in sudden cardiac death This study analysed 592 separate associated with the consumption of one reports analysing 28 million people. The variety of health problems included glass of red wine daily. The Copenhagen Understandably, intake of alcohol varies Heart study clearly performed in Denmark 28 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

where there is a very high proportion of the polyphenols (strong plant chemicals) There will always be people with a vested drinkers, demonstrated a 50% reduction in grape juice are in a very complex, interest either way who will condemn any in heart disease and cancer when two polymeric form and therefore are more alcohol consumption on the one hand glasses of red wine were consumed with a difficult to absorb. When wine is fermented, and those who for other reasons will want healthy Danish diet. The Lyon Heart study, these polyphenols are converted to a to promote the health benefits of alcohol of 36,000 Frenchmen over 12 years showed more monomeric form and are more consumption, often playing down the social exactly the same result. easily absorbed. I therefore believe the and health problems created by overuse. combination of the reduced absorption As with most issues in life, I believe the Again, staying with the Harvard data from of polyphenols and the sugar content of answer lies somewhere in the middle and the Boston area from the Nurses’ Health grape juice makes it less healthy than am yet to be convinced that the low-dose, study, again suggested that even one the low dose consumption of wine. Red responsible intake of alcohol causes harm glass of alcohol daily can increase the risk wine, especially, has very concentrated and in my view this low dose consumption for breast cancer. This risk, however, was polyphenols, that is, in my view, the does have a weak health benefit when negated by taking a daily multivitamin on evidence for the health benefits in low combined with all the other aspects of a a regular basis for 15 years and beyond. doses in people who also consume a healthy lifestyle. healthy diet and take a daily multivitamin. Finally, it is also important to ask why people consume alcohol? Many people Dr. Ross Walker is an eminent practising cardiologist with a passion for people and use alcohol as an antidepressant or health with 40 years experience as a clinician. For the past 20 years he has been sedative to numb the pain of a difficult focusing on preventative cardiology & is one of Australia’s leading preventative life. Could it be that the alcohol use health experts. in these people is purely a marker for a mental health disorder and not the Considered one of the world’s best keynote speakers and life coaches, he is the actual cause of the problem, thus also author of seven best-selling books & a regular health presenter in the Australian increasing the risk for physical disease-a Media. Dr Ross also appears weekly on the national Macquarie Radio well-known association. network & the Super Radio network. Food and alcohol are at the centre of Dr Walker runs the Sydney Heart Health many of our celebrations in life. With Clinic in Lindfield on Sydney’s North Shore, around 70% of Australian males and a clinic that focuses on all aspects of around 50% of females overweight non-invasive & preventative cardiology. or obese, could it be more that the obesity interacts poorly with the alcohol contributing to all of the health problems mentioned above? I was recently asked the question as to whether grape juice had the same benefits as red wine? The reality is that September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 29

ALL IN FOR THE CLUB we owe that to jack. we MIKE ZEKULICH do not want to see the club fail and the jack mann medal EMMANUEL Loucas - newly elected disappear. president of the WA Wine Press Club - is determined to see that under his watch, 30 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019 it does not collapse as others around Australia have done. For him, that would be something of a Greek tragedy. The Loucas family comes from the south-eastern Mediterranean Greek island of Kastellorizo where members have plied their trade in family- owned sailing ships to the many islands in the region. Manny, as he is known throughout the WA and national wine industry, was born in Melbourne - the family moving to WA in 1977 when his father was allocated a position in hospitality. Now 58, Manny went on to work, after his first restaurant position in Perth, at big name Australian wine producers like Lindemans and Penfolds. He is now the state manager of De Bortoli, drawing on his strong industry base for his press club work. As well, his Greek wine background is inspirational for it is said to be as old as civilisation itself. Old wines, especially reds, have led comic poets of the time to say women among the ancient Greeks preferred older wines to younger men! Manny’s present press club term as president is his second - and he is

undaunted by the challenges despite the trying wines made by our competitors.” Top: October 2018 Jack Mann Memorial Dinner. withering of other clubs. Over the years, There were plenty of scowls about in the Above: Emmanuel (Manny) Loucas president of the including committee representation, WA Club when it was found attempts had WA Wine Press Club 1976. the WA club - the first established in been made to register the Mann medal in the country - has earned respect for its eastern states hands. Fortunately, long- Left: The Jack Mann Memorial Trophy. educational programs and networking standing WA club secretary (the late) Ron where media and industry members have Burton had already taken the necessary sought crucial coverage. Among the protective action to keep the award in numerous awards introduced over time, the West. none has been more respected than the Jack Mann Memorial medal honouring the Previous winners are: Gavin Berry (2018), doyen of WA winemakers for his fantastic Robert Bowen (2017), David and Heather industry support, helping everyone he Watson (2016), Davd Hohnen (2015), could while bringing honour to a recipient Bill Crappsley (2014) Michael Tamburri for a dedicated industry contribution. “It (2013), Dorham Mann (2012), Betty Quick is our most valuable asset,” said Manny. (nee Pearce, 2011), Ray Jordan (2010), “We owe that to Jack. We do not want to Will Nairn (2009), Tony Devitt (2008), John see the club fail and the Jack Mann medal Griffiths (2007), Tom Cullity (2006), Merv disappear.” As a result, recipients highly and Judy Lange (2005), John Kosovich prize the trophy - jealously guarded by the (2004), Lloyd Meredith (2003), Bill Pannell club - and open to all in the WA industry, (2002), Paul Conti (2001), Mike Zekulich from winemaker to wine taster. Formed in (2000), Pam McGregor (1999), Di Cullen the mid 1970s, it has confounded many (1998), Stewart Van Raalte (1997), Dennis who did not believe it would last this long. and Tricia Horgan (1996), Tony Smith, “Being part of the organisation has been (1995), Rod Properjohn (1994), John enjoyable, especially rubbing shoulders Hanley (1993), John Tate (1992), Robin with industry leaders and stalwarts,” Clarke (1991), Bill Jamieson (1990), Manny said. “Mixing this way, you make Dr John Gladstones (1989). The 2019 a lot of friends. It has opened doors for presentation will be made at the Swan many in the industry and we all learn from Valley’s prestigious Mandoon Estate in October. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 31

THE RICHARDSON 2013 RESERVE SHIRAZ REACHING NEW PEAKS JENI PORT TO SOME, it’s an intrusion on an otherwise excellent Australian Shiraz. To others, it speaks of the terroir, of the bush and the land and is a character intrinsically associated with some Australian red wines. Eucalyptus aroma and flavour – variously described as mint or menthol – in Aussie reds is a divisive presence, a force for good or bad depending which side of the fence you choose to sit. Blue Pyrenees Estate chief winemaker, Andrew Koerner, works in the Pyrenees, a wine region closely associated with eucalyptus – both as a major feature of the landscape and as something common in the taste of some of its shiraz - and embraces it in his flagship red, The Richardson Reserve. However, he doesn’t necessarily see it or like it described as eucalyptus. “We recognise the distinct regional character of the Pyrenees as Chinese 5 spice, that is, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves, which I think you would have to say has to include the eucalypt character. “I think that’s the Pyrenees version of eucalypt. “We certainly believe eucalypt is terroir and the terroir shines 32 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

through as Chinese 5 spice and it certainly shows up in Pyrenees shiraz more than any other varieties.” Grapes destined for The Richardson Reserve Shiraz are sourced from the block at the Blue Pyrenees Estate vineyard near Avoca that shows the most regional/Chinese 5 spice character. It’s a deliberate move. “We pick the block that we think has the most intense varietal character as it is approaching maturity,” explains Koerner. “It’s not the same block every year and it doesn’t have to be the biggest red coming off the vineyard.” While not the biggest, the style is nevertheless generous in keeping with The Richardson’s namesake, the person who inspired the label, the late Colin Richardson. A larger-than-life character and a much-loved and influential Victorian wine man, Colin Richardson worked out of Melbourne in the late 1970s and 80s as secretary of the Wine and Brandy Producers’ Association of Victoria (later Victorian Wine Industry Association), promoting the revival of the state’s wine industry. He was a talented speaker, educator, wine judge and a man who loved his food and wine. Upon leaving the association he worked September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 33

34 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

for 20 years as the director of the wine division of (then) Remy Australie owned by French liquor giant, Remy Martin, and owner of Chateau Remy in the Pyrenees. The name was changed to Blue Pyrenees Estate in 1982 and the winery was later sold to a group of Victorian businessmen. In 1998, just months before he passed away in early 1999, Colin Richardson was going through the wines in the BPE barrel hall with the winemakers and remarked how fabulous the merlot from one particular block was tasting. When he died that merlot was bottled and became the first The Richardson red wine. It was from the 1997 vintage and was launched to critical praise in 2000. Fruit from the same merlot block was again chosen for the second The Richardson from the 2000 vintage. The merlot did not reach the required quality in the 2001 vintage leading to the decision in the 2002 vintage to make both a shiraz and a cabernet sauvignon under The Richardson label. A new addition to the label in the form of a Reserve Shiraz was launched in 2012, with just 100 dozen made. Quantities jumped to 300 dozen for the 2013 vintage, the current release, at $150 a bottle. To Koerner, BPE winemaker since 2004, the 2013 vintage was one of two of the best years he has seen in the last two decades. The other top vintage was, not so coincidentally, 2012. Koerner chooses the best barrels of his shiraz for his Reserve, around 10 barrels in 2013, and it’s all high end French barriques from a range of coopers. With demand rising for the wine from China, Koerner expects to make it a selection of the best 20 barrels in coming vintages. He makes no secret of the fact that he enters his top wines into Australian wine shows as a confirmation of quality. “We are generally looking to one or two gold medals or more in wine shows, we have no set rule, just as a way to confirm the quality we believe we have. “If you have three judges at a minimum saying, ‘This is a great wine’, that’s a big accolade in my opinion.” Fortunately, The Richardson Reserve Shiraz has enjoyed a particularly successful run in both Australian and international shows, including achieving Top Wine in the $100-$200 category and second place overall in this year’s Top Ten Mainfreight World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge XIV from more than 300 shiraz/syrah and blends tasted (see page 38). “It’s a bit of an achievement!” September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 35

BEST OF A Beautiful Bunch PETER SIMIC more French syrah from the retailers it seems be biased towards big muscular wines these are thin on the ground now. Hopefully from the Barossa or McLaren Vale. Nothing Another great judging of shiraz & syrah wines they have not given up with competing could be further from the truth. Even those was had by all. A highlight of our calendar with their Aussie counterparts. However, to regions have fine tuned their offerings in year, this year’s round of judgings proved maintain our title as the Greatest we also the past few years where there is now an no exception. Overall there were 315 wines went out and sourced the yardsticks of element of refinement as well as the usual judged, with 237 recommended. These Australian shiraz and French syrah in a head rich fulsome flavours. Thankfully the baby were judged over three days with senior to head no holds barred blind competition. has not been thrown out with the bathwater. winemakers and wine industry scientists Representing Australia we had Penfolds As with previous years there is quite a lot of on board judging the wines within various Grange, Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Road, regional diversity from the winning wines price categories, across various vintages Torbreck Run Rig, Henschke Hill of Grace across the different price categories. How’s and regions. We were also pleased to have and Bird in Hand MAC. On the Gallic side this for diversity; the legendary Wolf Blass himself on the there was M.Chapoutier Ermitage l’Ermite panel for the higher priced iconic wines. and Guigal Brune et Blonde. We did try Category winners – McLaren Vale It does seem strange that some young to track down Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle (three), Barossa Valley (two), Clare Valley people don’t realise that there is an actual without success. Apparently it is not sold person still alive who created the brand (but here any more. (two), Langhorne Creek (one), Eden no longer involved as the front man for the brand, as it was sold to the Treasury Wine There is a perception that the judges would Valley (one), Orange (one), Heathcote Group). Whilst we did try to source some (one), Pyrenees (one), One Tree Hill/ Adelaide region (one). THE JUDGES (left to right): Peter Simic, Wolf Blass, Stephen John, Matthew Pick, Thomas Darmody, Adam Clay, Leigh Francis, Marc Van Haldren, Janelle Zerk, Sam Watkins. 36 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

In general terms what came out of the restored connection with good results and end the $200+ wines, as expected, were judging? Firstly whilst there were some across the board consistency as did those all recommended, with great intensity wines under $15 that made the cut others between $40 - $45. Another sweet spot and generally maintained freshness and were problematic, maybe justifying the occurred for the next flight of $45 - $50 vibrancy through layered secondary adage “you get what you paid for!” A wines where the judges commented on the characteristics. couple of dollars more but still at amazing superior fruit combined with high quality value, there were enough drinkable wines oak selection. The $50 - $60 category Our thanks go to our expert judges, Sam in the $15 - $20 flight that should satisfy wines continued the pattern. Then we hit Watkins, Winemaker Boar’s Rock and even the most budget conscious. Ditto a bump with the $60 - $80 wines offering Chairman of the Langhorne Creek Wine for the $20-$25 group with a few more a mixed result, perhaps reflected by the Show; Matthew Pick, Chief Winemaker scoring highly. We saw a sweet spot in the 2015 and older vintages with some wines Seppeltsfield; Adam Clay, Pirathon Wines $25 - $30 priced wines where consistent showing green fruit and others showing (formerly Penfolds red winemaker); Janelle recommendations were achieved with early development characters. Fortunately Zerk, Owner/Winemaker Z wines; Thomas some higher scores reflecting the cooler we were back on track with the $80 - $100 Darmody, Winemaker Taylors Wines; Stephen 2017 vintage. Wines in the $30 -$35 class where consistency met high quality. John; Leigh Francis, Chief Scientist AWRI category had mixed results; some very Similar results occurred from the $100 - and the legendary Wolf Blass. good, others unbalanced by winemakers $200 flight. This is where the finest fruit overworking the fruit. The $35 - $40 group meets the finest winemakers. At the pointy September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 37

categor y winnersSHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDS THE STATS that count NUMBER TASTED: 315 Under $15 $15-$20 $20-$25 $25-$30 NUMBER AWARDED: 237 Taylors Wine for Yoga Lovers d’Arenberg The Love Thorn-Clarke Wines % awarded: 75% Special Release Langhorne Creek Grass McLaren Vale Shotfire Barossa Valley Clare Valley Shiraz 2017 Shiraz 2016 NUMBER OF FIVE STARS HHHH $14.99 HHHH1/2 $16 Shiraz 2016 Shiraz 2017 (Gold Award): 26 HHHHH $20 HHHHH $28 % awarded: 8% NUMBER OF FOUR & HALF STARS (High Silver Award): 40 % awarded: 13% NUMBER OF FOUR STARS (Silver Award): 52 % awarded: 17% NUMBER OF THREE & HALF STARS (High Bronze Award): 32 % awarded: 10% NUMBER OF THREE STARS (Bronze Award): 61 % awarded: 19% $45-$50 $50-$60 $60-$80 $ 8 0 - $10 0 Mum’s Block Barossa Mollydooker Blue Eyed Tenafeate Creek Basket Mollydooker Carnival Valley Shiraz 2017 Boy McLaren Vale Press One Tree Hill of Love McLaren Vale HHHHH $46.70 Shiraz 2017 Shiraz 2010 HHHHH $55 HHHHH $60 Shiraz 2017 HHHHH $80 38 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

$30-$35 $35-$40 $40-$45 FINAL TOP 10 Dindima Orange Avon Brae Sanguine Estate Shiraz 2014 Eden Valley Inception Heathcote The Top Ten Shiraz as selected by Shiraz 2017 highest judges scores are: HHHH1/2 $34 HHHHH $36.50 Shiraz 2017 HHHHH $40 1. Penfolds Grange Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014 2. Richardson Reserve Blue Pyrenees Shiraz 2013 3. Reillys RCV Epitaph Clare Valley Shiraz 2014 4. Mollydooker Blue Eyed Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2017 5. Mum’s Block Barossa Valley Shiraz 2017 6. Mollydooker Carnival of Love McLaren Vale Shiraz 2017 7. Sanguine Estate Inception Heathcote Shiraz 2017 8. Thorn-Clarke Wines Shotfire Barossa Valley Shiraz 2017 9. Avon Brae Eden Valley Shiraz 2017 10. Tenafeate Creek Basket Press One Tree Hill Shiraz 2010 $100-$200 $100-$200 $200+ Reillys RCV Epitaph Blue Pyrenees Penfolds Grange Barossa Valley Clare Valley Richardson Reserve Shiraz 2014 HHHHH $1,100 Shiraz 2014 Shiraz 2013 HHHHH $100 HHHHH $150 MAINFREIGHT WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH & 39 SHIRAZ CHALLENGE XIV STARTS PAGE 54. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E

October 10-12, 2019 Hunter Valley, NSW, Australia ● First Time Outside North America ● Excellent Content Directed Towards Media and Industry ● Networking With 150 Media and Industry Communicators ● Over 50 Attendees From North America ● Outstanding Wine Tastings, One Lunch, and One Dinner Included ● Multi-Day Pre-Conference and Post-Conference Excursions www.winemediaconference.org 40 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVIN A CHEESEMONGER sets up his bricks- Melbourne cheesemonger Anthony alongside breakfasts of rice pudding, and-mortar shop after operating out of a Femia is swapping his cheese stall in granola and baked beans on sourdough, cheese stall, a popular pop-up turns into the middle of the Prahran Market - in with the lunch and dinner menu featuring a permanent home and a chef turns to Melbourne’s inner-south-east - for a brand whipped cheese curds, pickled kohlrabi, one of his favourite cuisines to open a new new store, also at the market. grilled bread, cuttlefish cooked over coals restaurant. Settling down and settling in, and gnocchi with parsnips, Jerusalem Melbourne sure stays interesting. The 50-seater venue will be licensed, artichoke and Taleggio cheese. so you can pick from a range of local and Chef and restaurateur Scott Pickett’s international varietals. And there will be a And if you’re after a drink and snack after Smith Street restaurant site has reopened walk-in cheese maturation room containing work, there’s a bar menu with corn, cheddar as Lupo, a contemporary Italian offering imported cheeses and exclusive cheese and jalapeno croquettes, wild greens and reflecting its Melbourne location. releases from Victorian micro-fromageries. ricotta toast, sardine and pickled shallot on toast among other dishes. The change-over from acclaimed fine Femia, who studied cheese maturation dining restaurant Saint Crispin to an at Neal’s Yard Dairy in London, the Cellars “I am insanely excited. It’s a dream come Italian-inspired venue has been a long- at Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont and with true to re-open Pope Joan, I’ve missed held dream of Pickett. “cheese whisperer” Ivan Larcher in France, her,” says chef Matt Wilkinson. “I’ve been will also have a purpose-built maturation really overwhelmed by the response from Pickett has extensive training in pasta room, enabling him to age cheese on site. the public, and I’m so stoked that we can making from his years in London and Italian His signature cheese stall “grillz” such as keep the doors open permanently.” food is something he has a great love of. the American-style grilled-cheese toasties The menu at Lupo will be a collaboration has made the move to the new store to be It’s safe to say that between the original between Pickett, his executive chef Stuart part of an extended menu that includes a PJ and the pop-up, the menu has featured McVeigh and Lupo’s head chef Charlie weekly bruschetta and a Cubano sandwich a huge variety of crowd favourites, and Watson who comes from good stints at with roast pork shoulder from Gary’s Quality the new offering will be no different. Pope Eleven Madison Park and Elystan Street Meats - a high-end butcher, also at the Joan is open all-day for breakfast, lunch, before returning to Melbourne. market - and there’s fondue, of course. snacks, drinks and dinner, Monday to Friday from 7am until 9pm at 6/45 Collins With its core founded in good pasta The space is designed by woodwork St, Melbourne; phone (03) 9654 8545. - made in-house daily - diners will be artisans Arteveneta to give depth to the offered a menu of modern Italian dishes experience and the cheesemaking process. Top left: Interior of Scott Pickett’s restaurant Lupo. peppered with Australian native ingredients Touches such as raw woods, brass, steel Top right and below: Food from Scott Pickett’s such as spanner crab lasagne, basil and and marble feature throughout. Stall 25, restaurant Lupo in Collingwood. Sunrise lime alongside, hare cappelletti Prahran Market, 163 - 165 Commercial Rd, with celeriac and mustard fruits and squid South Yarra; phone 0413 900 490. ink linguine, bottarga, sardine vinaigrette. Main courses include Spanish mackerel After a popular summer pop-up, beloved with smoked eel, cannellini bean and cimi eatery Pope Joan - that operated on de rape or quail with golden raisin, fregola Nicholson St, Brunswick, until it was closed and aged balsamic. down for redevelopment - has made a permanent home in the Melbourne CBD A wine list by sommelier Tristan Vinson at 45 Collins St, Melbourne. highlights small-batch producers, predominantly using Australian-produced The pop-up was a huge success, seeing Italian varietals. The list offers up to 20 customers - old and new - finding the city regularly-changing wines by the glass, diner at the ground-level of the Sofitel as well as half-bottle options. The cocktail Hotel and enjoying favourites such as list includes a barrel-aged Negroni made sandwiches - The Cornish (Milawa free with Australian Campari. range chicken and jalapeno roll), The Pope Joan (free range bacon and egg The interior has been revamped with an roll, brown sauce), The Turkish Delight understated palette of warm, neutral tones (harissa carrot, hummus and grains) and and textural timber elevated by bursts of The Reuben (Warialda Belted Galloway Aperol orange and anchored by hints of beef pastrami, smoked mozzarella and forest green. 300 Smith St, Collingwood; red kraut). These all remain on the menu phone (03) 9419 2202. September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 41

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING I FIRST went to Metisse on a Thursday night with heirloom tomato mille-feuille with lunch menu of salads and veggies, pizza and the restaurant was packed. The second soft goats cheese and sea scallops with wraps and quiches, and more substantial time I visited on a chilly Tuesday evening, celeriac puree and avocado brulee. A petit dishes such as wood-roasted chicken with the sleek grey and black space was also baguette with French butter is priced at $5 brussel sprouts and harissa. well-populated. I mention this because the and worth every cent to get a meal off to a “affordable luxury” fine dining establishment true Gallic start. For the more sophisticated fare that has long occupies a location that has experienced a been McEnearney’s cash-in-hand, the tempo bit of an ill-fated history. Metisse, which means mixed race in is less rushed for dinner and the service is French, is a nod to Khan’s diverse heritage. more suave. From 5.30pm until late, there’s Ensconced in the Barcelona building in The signature dishes on the menu are all a constantly-changing blackboard menu or Potts Point, the corner premises have been homages to la belle France and it’s hard to staple entrees such as Thirlmere chicken liver home to Gastro Park, Antipodean and Etelek go past angus beef Rossini with foie gras paté with four spiced salt and baked Hervey over the past few years. But Metisse has parfait and truffle glaze, sous vide lamb with Bay scallops, bacon, thyme and garlic. Main broken the “curse” by providing Michelin- confit eggplant and ratatouille, and butter- attractions can include wood-roasted Bass quality, French-inspired food, a non-sharing poached lobster with lasagna blanket and groper fillet, white bean and chorizo stew or menu and bistro level prices. The owner, veloute. Khan is up at the crack of dawn to twice-cooked beef intercostal, coffee spice Opel Khan, has accomplished a lot in his select the best from the Sydney fish markets rub and marmalade. Desserts are simple 25-year career. He is classically trained and and the fang-fresh lobster we enjoyed yet sensational from the chilled vanilla rice has worked with Marco Pierre White and was a textbook example of his dedication. pudding, honeycomb and plum jam to dark the Roux brothers. Other highlights include Succulent, meaty and juicy. chocolate mousses with white chocolate writing an award-winning book - Sex in the cream. Kitchen by Mike CBD, 1-7 Bent St, Kitchen - and managing 15 restaurants Confession: over two visits to Metisse I Sydney; phone (02) 9252 5550. during his time in Australia. sampled all of the desserts. Even though it sounds improbable, the chocolate croissant What do you get when the former sommelier Khan credits the on-going gentrification of bread and butter pudding with salted of Porteno and Blood Wood opens his Kings Cross and Potts Point for the success caramel ice cream manages to be light yet own wine bar? A bolthole that grabs your of Metisse. But there’s always been plenty of rich. As does the individual tarte tatin with attention as soon as possible. Eric Morris well-heeled locals in nearby Elizabeth Bay cinnamon ice cream and the ile flottante opened Clementine’s cafe in Pyrmont in and harbour-view Wylde and Victoria streets. with anglaise cream and rhubarb compote. 2016 and added Bar Clementine earlier this With a kitchen helmed by Benoit Lollichon, The trilogy of chocolate not so much, as year. A cosy, yet slick mix of white marble an alumnus of Michelin-starred Guy Savoy you would expect from a triple dollop of and dark, polished timber, chef Craig Gray in Paris, Metisse has lured plenty of them the finest European chocolate. Metisse is dishes up great listings like steak and frites with a menu that offers new interpretations a welcome addition to Sydney’s fine dining and one-bowl pasta dishes. Or sample his of French classics and creative newbies. scene which won’t cause serious damage to great, four-course tasting menu for $45, your bank balance. A must for foodies and centred by goat ragu. All of the waitstaff are French which adds Francophiles. Metisse, 5-9 Roslyn St, Potts an authentic touch. You can order a la carte Point; phone (02) 8590 7698. But the drinks are the thing from aperitifs or opt for the five-course menu degustation such as negroni superiore (Tanqueray, with accompanying wines for $100 per Chef Mike McEnearney is a man of imbroglio, antica formula and averna) to person. There’s also an equally moreish many parts and talents. The former head cocktails like rumhattan (Mount Gay rum, vegetarian menu degustation available with chef of Rockpool and No 1 Bent Street is curacao and antica formula). There are the same wines, including Lisa McGuigan also the creative director of Carriageworks eight wines by the glass, including our Platinum Maximus Shiraz and Chateau Farmers Market. A role that led him to team pick - Kuhling-Guillot quinterra dry riesling Martinon Entre-Deux-Mers from Bordeaux. with Jayson Mesman’s The Truffle Farm in from Germany. For those who want to linger Canberra to offer a luxury truffle menu for longer, there are 33 bottled wines from a French cuisine has made a strong two months over the winter season. white wine fermented on skins such as Sally comeback in Sydney over the past year Rainbows Misty Chardonnay to Gundog or two. The edited menu is brimming McEnearney claims that his stint at No 1 Shiraz from the Hunter. Bar Clementine, 52 with refurbed favourites and is constantly Bent Street distanced him from customers, Harris St, Pyrmont; phone (02) 8591 3660. changing. We started a three-course meal but his new restaurant in the same premises - Kitchen by Mike CBD - replicates his Top right: Delicious food from Metisse restaurant. former canteen-style eatery of the same Left: Interior of Metisse restaurant. name in Rosebery. The new city iteration is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Corporates and construction workers drop by to enjoy simply great early morning choices such as hand-made crumpets, salted and cultured butter and CBD honey or goat’s curd and vegetable kraut on sprouted buckwheat bread. High-quality ingredients are also the star turn for the 42 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOEL Just a stone’s throw over the Queensland gin’s best friend, tonic, lime or lemon juice. from a small range of Asian beers or Kirin border, Paul Messenger, of Husk Distillers, Gradually the inky tones become a purply, apple cider. Capri on Via Roma, 15-21 Via produced the first bottle of rum from a small then blush pink before you eyes. Roma, Isle of Capri; phone (07) 5531 5563. green shed on the family sugarcane farm in the lush surrounds of Mt Warning in Northern The distillery, farm and much of the When Sichuan Bang Bang and Pizzeria New South Wales in 2012. Since then, he, region was devastated by floods in 2017, Violetta opened in a small, converted corner wife Mandy and their three daughters have the aftermath of Cyclone Debbie, and this shop on the main drag of Paddington in had quite the ride as farmers and distillers. delayed the completion of the planned Brisbane’s inner west, punters thought the expansion. Now the gorgeous cellar door mix of authentic Chinese and slow ferment The initial vision was to produce a paddock and bar, where the range of cocktails pizza was curious, to say the least. The to bottle agricole rum which, while inspired will knock your socks off, a relaxed cafe interior divided in two, the decor making it by the heady Carribean brews, would exhibit overlooking rolling lawns and a barrel clear whether you were in Italy or Sichuan distinctive Australian hues. The family make house are all now open for business and the Province and the unusual pairing seemed the rum from freshly crushed sugar cane so Messenger family, including Tilly the resident to work. Until it didn’t. Closing quietly in this limits the harvest season to the months labrador, are now welcoming guests for tours early 2019, the space is now inhabited by between August and November. and tastings as well as casual visitors looking another curious combo - this time three for a grazing plate and a rum or gin cocktail friends, Tyler, Gibb and Lek will operate So while that first aromatic bounty was to enjoy in a lush, hinterland setting. 1152 out of the existing dual kitchens, minus the ageing away in barrels, the Messengers Dulguigan Rd, North Tumbulgum; phone wood-fired pizza oven. got to work on a pet project, to make gin (02) 6675 9149. using Australian native botanicals and that’s Under the new moniker of Paddington how the now world famous Ink Gin was Back over the border on the famous Isle Social, Tyler takes the morning shift creating born. The blue brew is made by blending of Capri, the popular shopping and dining interesting breakfast options which include 13 organic botanicals, including traditional precinct Via Roma has a new offering. daily fresh baked goods like croissants, and Australian natives. Like all great gins, Madam Fu is the second venture from muffins and tarts made by Gibb who also juniper berries are the largest botanical the team behind popular Chevron Island produces a range of sweet and savoury component, however the defining character dining spot Fu Manchu Oriental Kitchen. baked goods daily to eat-in or take home. comes from the second tier botanicals Wedged between existing venues the Fish - locally grown lemon myrtle, coriander Emporium and Edgewater, all 80 seats enjoy After 5pm Lek takes over firing up the seeds, Tasmanian pepper berry and freshly water views. The menu zig zags around burners and creating his own version of Thai peeled sun-dried orange peel. Vietnam, Japan, China and Thailand, serving classics. Just when Paddington dwellers punchy favourites on tables made of wood were getting used to their yum cha and The final aroma is added post distillation reclaimed from a ’50s timber beach house pizza nights together, now there’s pain au and only for 24 hours. Petals of the butterfly in neighbouring Broadbeach. chocolat and pad thai, go figure. 167 Given pea flower are steeped overnight in the still Tce Paddington; phone 0411 271 988. and impart their distinct inky hue, hence the The menu is designed for sharing and is name. The magic happens when you mix it divided into categories of raw or rare dishes Top left: Exterior of Husk Distillers. with something with low ph levels such as such as lemongrass trout tartare with sea Middle left: Rum cocktails at Husk Distillers. herbs, veal tataki with lilly pilly soy and Above right: Delicious platter at Husk Distillers. smoked Mooloolaba tuna with fingerlime. Then there are the bao’s, dumplings and wonton taco’s - think beef rendang and pineapple tacos, sichuan snapper bao with fried egg mayo and spanner crab and prawn dumplings in ginger dashi. Larger dishes include kung pao lamb ribs with Warrigal greens, lemon myrtle spiced squid with citrus kewpie and grilled prawns with green papaya tom sam and toasted coconut. The wine list is small and skewed towards spicy food combo’s - Chaffey Bros Duft Punkt, the riesling- gewurztraminer blend works nicely with the punchy dumpling broths or you can choose September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 43

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS RESTAURATEUR Simon Kardachi built seamless transition from fine dining (Sat cheeseburger. There’s a good wine list his considerable Adelaide empire (Press Bains in the UK, Narisawa in Tokyo, Magill (and an excellent in-house bottle shop), Food & Wine, Melt, Shobosho, Osteria Estate, Tetsuya’s, Ezard) to brew-pub menu but it’s hard to resist that brewery and its Oggi, SeaSalt to name some of it) on his at Sparkke at the Whitmore, working with excellent beers. Sparkke at the Whitmore, first restaurant, the Melting Pot, a tiny but head brewer Agi Gajic to create innovative 317 Morphett St, Adelaide. Open for lunch characterful suburban eatery that attracted dishes using original brews direct from the and dinner daily; phone (08) 7123 0808. a succession of highly successful chefs. onsite 800L 2-vessel nano-brewery. A place must have something going for it But after 20 years and a couple of Sparkke is the new identity of the formerly when it’s hidden in the back blocks of the attempts at a revival, the magic had faded. very run down, 180-year-old Whitmore Adelaide Hills, 25 minutes by car from the city, But in typical fashion, Kardachi waved his Hotel, which has been gutted and reshaped yet still attracts a weekend crowd of hundreds. magic wand, gave the restaurant a whole at a cost of $1.8 million to give it a highly new identity and focus, and renamed it Nido contemporary identity under its all-female It helps that Lot 100, set on an 84ha (“nest” in Italian) with last year’s Australian ownership and management. McCaskill, who property, is also the location of a $4.5 million young Chef of the Year Max Sharrad in has carved out a global career in sustainable production facility and cellar door for a charge of the stoves. and seasonal fine dining, is sourcing fresh collaborative group that includes a winery, and local produce, supporting independent brewery, cider maker and distiller, so there’s Rarely has a new restaurant in Adelaide farmers and working towards a minimal plenty to drink. But the kitchen, fronting a vast, hit the ground running quite as fast as Nido, waste, socially aware kitchen. barn-like dining room and terrace, has pizza seemingly an instant success from day one. master Tom Bugner (ex Pizza e Mozzarella) Sharrad has drawn on his family’s northern Sparkke’s menu is as innovative as its in charge of the wood oven and ex-Orana Friuli Venezia Giulia background to create surroundings, starting with featherlight head chef Shannon Fleming at the stoves, a neighbourhood bistro and aperitivo bar grilled roti and dahl butter, followed by small and that’s almost as big an attraction. featuring artisanal cured meats and salumi, dishes such as pork and ginger dumplings bar snacks and larger plates featuring in a chicken bone broth with fresh coriander. The Italian-influenced menu could have hand-made pastas and grilled meats. Larger dishes include drunken chicken, you start with blistered, grilled Port Lincoln poached in chicken broth and ginger beer sardines on an intense, slightly smoky tomato His menu includes brilliantly tweaked Italian then deep fried, served on chilli sauce with sauce, perhaps raw kingfish with wild fennel, classics such as rootello bonito, a take on chunky cucumber and watermelon radish roasted cherries and rocket oil, or maybe vitello tonnato made to order with freshly salad and ginger beer vinaigrette. Hardly an antipasti plate featuring the best locally chopped kangaroo, bonito flakes in kewpie your everyday pub tucker. made cheeses and salumi. Look for daily mayonnaise and shaved, cured egg yolk, or specials like rotisserie-cooked baby chicken, squid ink cavotelli poached in “crazy water” McCaskill’s Indian family heritage shows rolled and rotisserie-roasted pork belly, with local pippis and Coorong mulloway. in dishes such as sweet and sour baby finished in the wood oven to crisp up the skin, squid given an Indian twist with tomato stuffed with herbs on a pile of cavolo nero There’s no better way to start a meal at Nido chutney and preserved lemon, or prawns with romesco sauce, though the tempting than a plate of whipped Kangaroo Island in a creamy, smoky brinjal. baked gnocchi with melted fontina cheese ricotta with local honey mopped up with is winter comfort food personified. puffy, deep-fried gnocco fritto - and to end Those seeking more traditional pub tucker it with a crunchy sfoglietelle with a tiramisu will enjoy treats such as a chuck steak If you can draw your attention away from filling. Nido, 160 King William Rd, Hyde Park. the 40 or so taps at the bar, there’s also the Open for breakfast Sunday, lunch and dinner opportunity to check Sascha La Forgia’s Tuesday-Saturday; phone (08) 8373 2044. newest offerings at Adelaide Hills Distillery, including his native grain whiskey, with In another move away from fine dining to wattleseed a feature in the mash, and his a more approachable and popular style of apple brandy, an Australian version of dining, chef Emma McCaskill has made a Calvados. Lot 100, Chambers Rd, Hay Valley. Open for lunch Thursday to Sunday; phone (08) 7077 2888. Top right: Anchovy Stracciatella from Nido. Top middle: Cornetto dessert from Nido restaurant. Bottom left: Dumplings from Sparkke. Bottom right: Sparkke bar and brewery. 44 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

DRAGON GOWN is a new brand under Dragon King Group. Compared with Dragon King Restaurant, Dragon Gown attaches greater importance to food appearance and dining environment. Like emperor’s gown, it must have splendid appearance and emphasizes comfort and health. To be sure, it is our foremost mission to assure food quality and quantity. Dragon Gown aims to receive local and overseas business guests. In internal design, Dragon Gown offers a diversity of dining table matching, simple and fashionable to meet diversified needs of reception and banquet. In dish design, we choose freshest food materials in combination with our conception of innovation and special style to present new generation Cantonese food. Take Poached Rice with Lobster Soup for example. We make Lobster Soup and serve it with Steamed Rice and Deep-fried Rice to create an irresistible flavor. Deep-fried Rice is crisp and refreshing and gives out a rustling sound when meeting hot Soup. Address: Shop Nos. 2C and 2D, 2/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Telephone no.: 852 – 2180 6533 Working hours: Monday to Saturday 11:00am – 3:00pm & 6:00pm – 11:00pm Sunday and Public Holidays 10:00am – 3:00pm & 6:00pm – 11:00pm DRAGON SEAL is located on F101 of International Commerce Centre (ICC) in West Kowloon. As the third highest building in the world. For any type of activities or banquets, we can provide most suitable venue for you. Enjoying the charming seaview of Victoria Harbor, the dining hall serves as the best place for holding various types of ceremonies and celebrating unforgettable days. In addition, Dragon Seal is a preferred choice for enterprise cocktail party, anniversary celebration and private parties. In addition to pursuit for delicious diet taste, Dragon Seal is also particular in promoting diet culture of sound, color and art. Our group CEO Mr. Wong Wing Chee was born in a chef family. In his childhood, he was influenced by what he constantly saw and heard. Constant research of cuisine nurtured his unique and innovative thinking. In his opinion, food quality is very important and dining environment is also most important. He attaches great importance to man-to-man interaction and restaurant decoration. He pays special attention to comfortable seats, lighting and distribution as well as the interaction of tableware and tabletop, including the fresh flower on the dining table. Therefore, you will never feel disappointed when dining in Dragon Seal. Address: Shop C, 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon Telephone no.: 852 – 2568 9886 Working hours: Monday to Sunday 11:30am – 3:00pm & 6:00pm – 11:00pm September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 45

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS JULIEN Royer, the man behind Sushi Shikon, for example), and so, we gung-ho band of chefs who embarked Singapore’s Odette, which claimed have the unveiling of Somm. on a world tour with the aim to build 20 the number one spot on Asia’s 50 Best restaurants in 20 different countries. Restaurants this year, has now burst on For those who might not want the marathon to Hong Kong’s dining scene with the of Amber’s tasting menu, neighbouring Now, the globetrotting chef - who has opening of Louise under the JIA Group. Somm offers relatively straightforward worked with the likes of Tom Aikens and French bistro food with some add-ons such Rene Redzepi - is back with a permanent Nestling in PMQ and taking full advantage as Tasmanian salmon confit, crispy white set-up in Hong Kong. Having explored, of its majestic colonial surrounds, Louise asparagus and tarragon sabayon, and the well most places, including Mount Everest, is a relatively large (by Hong Kong extremely good “Raspberry 1000-Feuilles” Sharman has gone full circle with The standards) outfit, with two storeys and with whipped pepper berry ganache. Leah, offering classic British dishes from high ceilings with plush, exotic looking his native England. interiors - so plush and exotic in fact, that But it’s the wine that sets Somm apart. Wallpaper (travel guide) wrote a glowing The hotel’s wine director John Chan has There’s more than a nod to James’ review of the architect Andre Fu. chosen 1600 bottles of champagne, wine adventure days, there’s a large greenery and sake which adorn the bar and positively filled terrace (a rarity in Hong Kong), and All-day dining and drinks are served encourage a gentle exploration over colourful cocktail list which keeps The Leah at the ground-level Tropical Greenhouse lunch or dinner. Try the going well into the evening. Lounge, with a la carte lunch and dinner weekend Sommeliers available in the upstairs Ivory Boudoir Lunch of three or Expect no-frills dishes such as gnocchi dining room. It’s a bit more rustic than one four courses to while cooked in beef fat, whole roasted Dover might expect, given the pomp that imbues away the afternoon. sole and a rather lovely short-rib pie, and be some of PMQ’s other establishments, but Somm, 7/F, Landmark warned that during the day the restaurant the braised beef in red wine with confit Mandarin Oriental, The caters to the private family club, Maggie & carrots is not to be missed. Louise, 35 Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rose, so make sure you go post 7pm when Aberdeen St, Central, Hong Kong; phone Rd Central, Hong Hugo and Olivia are tucked up in bed. The +852 2866 0300. Kong; phone +852 Leah, 308 & 311, 3/F, Lee Garden Two, 28 2132 0055. Yun Ping Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong; When the Landmark Mandarin Oriental phone +852 2337 7651. announced it was going to “do” a casual Many of Hong Kong’s dining restaurant, the world for a second keen diners (below a Top: Interior of Louise restaurant. made a little less sense. But when it certain age perhaps) Middle: Somm Bar at the Landmark restaurant. decides to do something, it does it very will remember James Bottom: Scallops from The Leah restaurant. well (revamping the staid Amber, hosting Sharman from One the relocated three-Michelin starred Star House Party - the 46 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019



W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2000 $270 2008 $55 1983 $220 1966 $1,000  WINES 2001 $290 2009 $70 1984 $220 1967 $600  2002 $300 1985 $280 1968 $600 2003 $200 1986 $330 1969 $560  2004 $350 GIACONDA 1987 $250  1970 $400  Stonewell Shiraz Chardonnay 1988 $330  1971 $720  1990 $90 BASS PHILLIP 2005 $230 1990 $110 1989 $280  1972 $400  1991 $70 Premium Pinot Noir 2006 $250 1991 $60 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1973 $450  1992 $85 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1974 $480  1992 $60 1990 $75 2007 Not Released 1993 $90 1992 $350  1975 $460  1993 $65 1991 $90 2008 Not Released 1994 $100 1993 $300  1990 $130 1976 $850  1992 $95 1995 $85 1994 $360  1991 $150 1977 $450 1994 $55 1993 $80 2009 Not Released 1996 $140 1995 $320  1978 $380  1995 $55 1994 $110 2010 $200 1997 $95 1996 $480 1992 $120 1979 $400 1995 $80 1998 $110  1997 $300  1993 $100 1980 $380  1996 $70 1996 $110 2011 Not Released 1999 $120 1998 $420 1981 $400  1997 $55 1997 $140 2012 $210 2000 $110 1999 $380 1994 $100 1982 $380 1998 $140 2001 $110 2001 $380  1995 $130 1983 $480  1998 $85  1999 $120 2002 $160 2002 $420 1984 $350 2000 $120 CLONAKILLA 2004 $190 2004 $380 1996 $120 1985 $380 1999 $75 2001 $160 2005 $120 2005 $390  1986 $520 2000 $70 2002 $145 Shiraz Viognier 2006 $110  2006 $180  1997 $100 1987 $350 2001 $65 2003 $110 2007 $120  2007 Not Released 1998 $130  1988 $380 2004 $140 1990 $65 2008 $130  2008 $540 1999 $130 1989 $360 2002 $70 2005 $80 1993 $65 2009 Not Released 1990 $540 2007 $130 1994 $85 2010 $130 Armagh Shiraz 2000 $130  1991 $460 2003 $55 2008 $85 2011 $130 1990 $200 1992 $380 2004 $85 2009 $85 1995 $65 2012 $130 1991 $120  2001 $130 1993 $380 2005 $60 2010 $90 1992 $140  2002 $120  1994 $380 2011 $100 1996 $100 Meshach 1993 $110 2003 $90 1995 $370 2006 $60 1997 $130 1990 $100 1994 $130 1996 $500 1998 $150 1991 $85 1995 $130 2004 $100 1997 $380 2007 $55 1992 $80 1996 $190  1998 $580 2008 $60 1999 $55 1993 $70 1997 $140  2005 $100 1999 $400 1994 $90 1998 $250  2006 $70 2000 $420 2000 $90 1995 $70 1999 $180   2001 $380 1996 $90 2000 $120 2002 $450 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2001 $140 2007 $95  2003 $420 1998 $110 2002 $200 2004 $460 2002 $130 1999 $90 2004 $160  2008 $90 2005 $430 2000 $70 2005 $120 2009 $85 2006 $520 2003 $100  2001 $110 2006 $160 2010 $80 2007 $420 2004 $120 2002 $95 2007 $95  2008 $620 BINDI 2003 $60 2008 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 2005 $110 2004 $70 2011 $90 Basket Press 1997 $80 2005 $65 1998 $95 2006 $120  2006 $65 Shiraz 1999 Not Released 2007 $190  2007 Not Released 2000 $150 2008 $90 2008 $85 MOUNT MARY 1990 $150 2001 $120 GREENOCK CREEK 1991 $140 2002 $110 2009 $95 Quintet 1992 $95 2003 $85  Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $150 2004 $110 Shiraz 2005 $140 2010 $90  1991 $120 1993 $110  2006 $100 1995 $280 2007 $120 2011 $75 1996 $260 1992 $110 1994 $95  2008 $120 1997 $160 2009 $90 2012 $70 1998 $350 1993 $95 1995 $100  2010 $95 1999 $200  2011 $85 2000 $220 1994 $110 1996 $180  2012 $95 2001 $250 1997 $90 2002 $320  1995 $100  2003 $210 2004 $210 1996 $120 1998 $190 2005 $230 1999 $110 2006 $260 1997 $120 2000 $90 1998 $160 Hill of Grace 1999 $130 2001 $95 1980 $280  2002 $120 Cabernet Merlot 1981 $220 2000 $120 2003 $100 1982 $250  2001 $110 1999 $95 2002 $130 2004 $110  2000 $65 2001 $110  2003 $110 2005 $110  2006 $110 2002 $90 2004 $140 2007 $85 BROKENWOOD 2005 $120  2003 $90 Bin 707 Graveyard Shiraz 2004 $110  2006 $120 1990 $250  2008 $85  1991 $250  1990 $90 2005 $85 2007 $90 1992 $210  2009 $85  1993 $220  1991 $110 2006 $70 2008 $95 1994 $220  2010 $100  1995 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2007 $100 2009 Not Released 1996 $230 THREE RIVERS/ 1993 $80 1997 $190 1994 $80 2008 $95  2010 $85 1998 $260 Chris Ringland 2011 $120 1999 $200 1995 $85  2009 $95  2000 Not Released Wines Shiraz 2001 $210  1996 $95 2010 $100  Chardonnay 2002 $220  1990 $520 2011 $75 2003 Not Released 1997 $85 Art Series 2004 $200 1991 $690 2005 $230  1992 $600 1998 $140  ELDERTON 1990 $60 2006 $220  1993 $700 1999 $90 2007 $200  2000 $140  Command Shiraz 1991 $60 2008 $210  1994 $650 1992 $70 2009 $200  2001 $85  1990 $90  1993 $65 Bin 95 Grange 2010 $280 1995 $450 1951 $46,000 2002 $75 1991 Not Released 1994 $85 1952 $17,000 1996 $830 1992 $100 1953 $14,000 2003 $80 1993 $65 1995 $100 1954 $11,000  1997 Not Released 1955 $4,000 1998 $850 2004 $85  1994 $85  1996 $65 1956 $14,000 1999 $600 1957 $12,000 2005 $85 1995 $75 1997 $90 1958 $4,100 2000 $450 2006 $110 1959 $2,000 2007 $90 1996 $95 1998 $70 1960 $1,500 2001 $800 1999 $75 1961 $1,600 2008 Not Released 1997 $70 2000 $75 1962 $1,600 2002 $800 1998 $95 1963 $1,200  2009 $85 1999 $70 2001 $80 1964 $1,200  2003 $500 1965 $600  2000 $65 2002 $80  CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $65 2003 $80 Bin 60A Astralis Shiraz 2004 $90 2002 $85 2005 $75 1962 $4,000 1994 $200 2004 $550  1995 $200 2003 $65 2006 $70 2006 $400 1996 $250  2004 $75 1997 $200  2007 $85 1998 $260 1999 $260 2005 $65 2008 $70 2006 $70 2007 $65 2009 $75  2010 $70 48 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERM Cellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque Follow us and keep up to 1990 $150 2006 $2,100 Hermitage date with all our latest wine 1991 $130 2007 $3,200 1992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $800 info, tastings and events 1993 $90 1991 $850  on facebook, twitter and 1994 $120 1992 $270 1995 $110 1993 $240 instagram. 1996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $300  1997 $85  Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $500  Winestate Magazine 1998 $160  1996 $260 @WinestateEd 1999 $100  1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $450 2000 $80 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $700 2001 $100  1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $850 2002 $150  1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $420 2003 $100 1996 $440 1995 $500  2001 $520 2004 $120 1997 $450 1996 $540 2002 $450 2005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $850 2006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 $560 2008 $120 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $600 2009 $130 2004 $240 2000 $600 2006 $750 2010 $140 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 2011 $110 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $650  2004 $500 Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550 2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 $220 1993 $550  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1993 $210 1878 $2,200  1996 $800  de la Romanee 1994 $260 1879 $2,500  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1995 $210 1880 $1,800  1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1996 $300 1881 $1,800  1999 $750  1991 $1,900 1997 $380  1882 $1,800  2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1998 $300 1887 $1,200  2001 $450 1993 $2,200 1999 $300  1893 $1,200  2002 $500 1994 $1,600 2000 $250  1899 $1,200  2003 $600 1995 $3,500  2001 $250 1901 $700  2004 $850  1996 $3,100  2002 Not Released 2005 $1,200 1997 $1,900 2003 Not Released 2006 $950  1998 $2,200 2004 $310 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2005 Not Released 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,500 2007 $240 Chateau Latour 1908 $600  1990 $1,250 2001 $2,000 Tenuta 1910 $500  1991 $600 2002 $3,800 Dell’Ornellaia 1922 $350 1992 $350 2003 $2,800  1925 $600 1993 $440 2004 $2,500  Ornellaia 1927 $290 1994 $460 2005 $5,500 1991 $320 1930 $140 1995 $1,200  2006 $1,700 1992 $105 1933 $140  1996 $1,400  2007 $1,200 1993 $125 1939 $90 1997 $650  2008 $2,400 1994 $130  1998 $520 2009 $5,000 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 1944 $80  2000 $1,600 2001 $700 1947 $75  2002 $600 1997 $350  2003 $1,700 1998 $350  IMPORTED 2004 $600 Domaine Armand 1999 $200  WINES 2005 $1,300 Rousseau 2000 $450 2006 $1,100 2001 $260  Moet et Chandon 2007 $750 Chambertin 2002 $280  Cuvee Dom 2008 $1,100 Clos de Beze 2003 $150 Perignon 1990 $2,500  2004 $280 1980 $180  Chateau Petrus 1991 $200 2005 $200 1982 $280  1990 $5,500 1992 $220 2006 $220 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  2007 $220 1992 $1,300 1994 $500 2008 $150 1993 $1,000 1995 $560 2009 $190 1994 $2,800 1996 $650 1995 $4,000  1997 $280 1996 $2,400 1998 $400 1997 $1,000 1999 $800 1983 $190  1998 $4,800  2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico 1985 $200 1999 $1,250 Gran Reserva 1988 $260 2000 $6,000 2001 $700  2001 $4,500  2002 $680 1990 $560 1990 $320  2003 $600 1991 $420 1992 $240 1994 $550 1993 $260 2004 $440 1995 $420 2005 $1,200  1996 $360 1995 $220 2006 $600 1998 $420 1996 $370  1999 $550  1998 $260 2007 Not Released 2000 $360 2009 $1,100 2002 $420 1999 $190 2010 $1,100 2000 $190  2002 $200 2003 $190 2003 $294 2004 $170 September/October 2019 W I N E S TAT E 49

wine investment & collecting AUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts buyers to dig deep into their pockets. Iconic Australian wines such as Penfolds MW WINES MW WINES Grange, Bin 389, Bin 707, Henschke Hill www.mwwines.com.au (March and April 2019 Auction Report of Grace, Jasper Hill Georgia’s Paddock by Anthony Caputi) and Giaconda Chardonnay, amongst STERLING WINE Strong results in the secondary others, achieved significantly higher final Live on-line auctions run every two market for the first few months of 2019 hammer prices above their reserves. Old weeks, back-to-back, finishing on have continued at MW Wines. An world gems from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Wednesday evening. Visit sterlingwine. overwhelming majority of our vendors Barolo – as well as some extremely rare com.au for latest catalogue have been delighted at their results as fortifieds from Portugal – continued to information. final hammer prices continue to exceed excite our buyers. estimates for great wines from great LANGTON’S AUCTIONS vintages. Clearance rates are steady in We saw a significant amount of Penfolds Langton’s mounts between 10 and 12 comparison to the same time last year, as wines, especially in March, with Bin online auctions each week. Sales close buyers’ insatiable appetite for aged fine 389, Bin 707 and Grange leading the at 9pm every Tuesday and Thursday, wines continues. We had outstanding way. Taking a look first at Bin 389, less and 7pm every Sunday. The weekly March and April catalogues with a great heralded vintages continue to trend Finest & Rare sale closes on Tuesday, spread of Australian and imported wines, upwards which has the flow-on effect of and Thursday auctions – Cellar Reload and over $840,000 in sales spread over pushing the hammer prices of the better and Spare Change – focus on value. the two Auctions. vintages towards and over the magical Sunday auctions are more varied but $100 barrier. An ullaged bottle of 1988 always include the popular Weekend More than $424,000 worth of wine Bin 389 attracted plenty of interest and Unreserved sale. See langtons.com. changed hands in March, with the sold for $80, while bottles of the 1994 au for the full calendar and information clearance rate sitting just above 62 per and 1999 Bin 389 reached $87. The on selling. cent. The quality of wine being brought outstanding 1996 and 1998 vintages in by our vendors tempted many of our were keenly sought after, selling for $115 (All dates subject to change without notice). and $120 respectively. A 100 per cent clearance rate was achieved for Bin 707, and even with a number of bottles being ullaged there were some notable results; $391 for ullaged bottles of 1982 and 1997, $460 for the 1991, 1994, 2001 and 2005 vintages, $494 for the magnificent 1998 and 2006 and $483 for the 2012. A cliniced bottle of 1959 Grange in magnificent condition led the way for Grange sales, possibly because it’s a 60th anniversary wine: a final hammer price of $6,950 was achieved, which was well above the estimate. Similarly, the 40th anniversary 1979 vintage attracted plenty of interest, finally reaching $782, while bottles of 1987 and 1988 Grange sold for $552 and $575 respectively. More current vintages, namely 2004 and 2010, reached $621 and $690 respectively. We were privileged to receive an extensive international collection for both auctions, spread amongst a number of different vendors. A high shoulder level magnum of 1919 Gruaud-Larose attracted plenty of interest and sold for $1,265, while bottles of 2007 and 2008 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild performed above expectations, selling for $1,150 and $1,322 respectively. Both the 50 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2019