Winestate Magazine September October 2011

wine investment & collecting“It is an important part of Australia’s premium and budget wines on offer. Locally, well-aged and historic table wineswinemaking history. Ahead of the auction The overall response from buyers and attracted considerable buyer attention.it was hard to estimate the value of such vendors to Oddbins’ new online system A rare Penfolds Bin 55 Magill Caberneta rare bottle.” He said the price achieved has been extremely positive and the first Shiraz fetched $650, while a Penfolds Binwas equivalent to that paid for rare sale generated some extraordinary bidding 414 Show Sauternes reached $400. AnEuropean wines. wars among subscribers. Importantly, intriguing bottle of 1962 Hardy’s Tintara the system heralded an end to the stock Claret achieved a hammer price of $226. A Other highlights from the Penfolds sale drought which Oddbins had experienced substantial offering of well-aged but scruffyincluded $51,062 for a 1951 Penfolds Bin 1 over the previous 18 months. Wynns Black Label Cabernet attractedGrange Hermitage, $5754 for a ’61 Grange some attention, with one of the 1954Shiraz (previous record was $2187), $1831 “Vendors have unshackled their cellars vintages selling for $451.for a ’63 Grange Shiraz (previous record and released a considerable amount of$1,151), $1,572 for the ‘71 Penfolds Bin stock into the marketplace, including the Generally speaking, buyers were keen on95 Grange Shiraz (previous record $978), still ‘hot’ Bin 707 - hence the very large the vertical of Barossa Valley Estate E&E$1021 for a ’61 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz June auction,” says Oddbins’ valuer and Black Pepper Shiraz from 1988 to ’99, the(previous record $144), $921 for a ’61 St auctioneer Graham Wright. “Needless to full range of the famed Clonakilla ShirazHenri Shiraz (previous record $265), $532 say, the overall clearance rate fell below Viognier, fetching around $100 a bottle, andfor a ’67 Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz (previous the Oddbins average but, surprisingly, d’Arenberg Dead Arm from ’97 and 2003. Foxrecord $139) and $128 for a ’76 Bin 128 the turnover from the auction was up as Creek Reserve Shiraz has also come backShiraz (previous record $98). buyers returned to the Grange market with into favour with Oddbins’ buyers, with good a vengeance. Very good clearances were clearances, especially for the 1998 vintage. The results of the Penfolds auction bodes also recorded for most of the Penfolds lots From the extensive Henschke portfolio, goodwell for the secondary market, proving that on offer, although big slabs of Rockford clearances were recorded for ’96 and 2006when collectors are offered quality, rare Basket Press, Burge Meshach, Greenock Hill of Grace, along with most Keynetonwine with a pedigree they are prepared to Creek Roennfeldt and most Wendouree Estate from the 1980s and ’90s. The fewspend - defying the caution seen in auction failed to excite buyers on the night.” Mount Edelstones on offer also cleared well.markets over the previous three years. The major highlights of the auction were Australia’s love affair with shiraz For all Top 20 price results for all auctions, the sale of a 2006 Chateau Lafite imperial remains strong but vintage-specific.visit www.langtons.com.au. for a hammer price of $7000, along with Good clearances were recorded for 2001 a double magnum of the same for $3500. Jim Barry The Armagh, as well as KayODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Also of note, a magnum of 1990 Gaja Brothers Block 6, Orlando Centenary(JUNE REPORT) Sperss Barolo fetched $1400 and a bottle of Hill and Lehmann Eight Songs - all fromODDBINS launched its first official online Springbank Single Malt achieved a hammer 1996. Good sales were also reported forcatalogue on June 21, with over 4300 price of $1500. Rosemount’s Balmoral from the 1990s,lots of local and imported collectibles, AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 101

wine investment & collectingRockford Basket Press from the late ’90s of important vintages also cleared well: ’84, along with 2002 Chateau Margaux ($480)and early 2000s and Wynns shiraz from ’86, ’90, ’91 and ’98. Buyers were a little and 2000 Carruades de Lafite ($450). The1998. A large offering of Seppelts Sparkling choosier with the Imperfect segment. ’93 Cos d’Estournel also remains popular,Shiraz from 1994 cleared well at $10 a fetching $400. All these prices represented anbottle, as did Wirra Wirra’s RSW from the For further information, visit www. increase on previous auctions. Other strongchallenging 2000 vintage. oddbins.com.au. Bordeaux performers included 2000 Chateau Lynch Bages ($320), 2005 Chateau Pontet- Bidders picked the eyes out of the LIQUID ASSET FINE WINE AUCTIONS Canet ($250), 2000 Chateau Calon Segursubstantial Wynns Black Label lots, (MAY/JUNE REPORT) ($225), 2005 Chateau L’Evangile ($310) andespecially from the 1960s, ’80s and mid THE PAST couple of months have shown 1990 Chateau Gruaud Larose ($285).-’90s, Rosemount’s premium blends - a significant increase in sales of fine andMountain Blue and Traditional from ’97 and rare wine, literally 50 per cent over the Champagne has been a noted success as’98 - and Zema Estate Cluny Cabernet Blend. previous two months. Liquid Asset Fine well, with plenty of interesting wines coming Wine Auctions was fortunate to source onto the market. A number of methuselahs Finally, buyers were very keen on the some excellent cellars for dispersal which (six litres) of Moet et Chandon Imperial Brutconsiderable collection of well-aged has shown that, given the wines, there were carried away for $590 each. Otherfortifieds, including Grand Prix ports, is good demand in New Zealand. It is notable lots included 1995 Salon le MesnilChateau Hornsby The Last Ghan Port, hoped this trend will continue, especially at $465 a bottle, Krug Rose NV at $440 and1953 Penfolds Club Port and Mr Pickwick with the company about to launch its 1990 Dom Perignon at $410.Particular Port. The saddest surprise of the new interactive platform which will allownight was the virtual lack of bidding on the physical and online auctions to take place Burgundies remain slow, both to come tosubstantial amount of vintage dated Paras. simultaneously. market and to sell. That said, a couple ofMost of the imported categories, except notable wines in the last period were thethe highlights featured above and a select Chateau d’Yquem generated great interest 1996 Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Bezenumber of red Burgundies, were quiet. recently. A magnum of 1990 sold for nearly ($260) and some 1998 Domaine Bonneau $1200 and bottles of the same vintage went du Martray Corton Charlemagne ($170). Any lull in the Penfolds market reported for nearly $600. Additionally, a bottle of the Meanwhile, Rhone continues its dramaticover the previous six months was certainly 2001 fetched significantly more at $1040. rise in popularity, as noted over the pastover in June, as buyers returned in numbers Top-end French wines generally sold well, six months. The 1990 Hermitage seems toto Australia’s most prominent auction with the leading clarets performing best, be where it’s at as the 1990 La Chapellebrand. Good clearances were recorded for as expected. Some 1996 Chateau Latour from Paul Jaboulet Aine made over $700most of the major styles: Bin 28, 128, 389 sold for $1000 a bottle and three bottles of and the ’90 from Domaine Jean-Louis(mainly from the ’90s and early 2000s), 2003 Chateau Mouton Rothschild reached Chave reached $500. Interest in other Old407 (especially the ’96), Magill, RWTs from reserve at $640. The 2000 Chateau Leoville World wine regions was also high. The1997 and St Henri. The rush for Bin 707 Las Cases was another to sell well at $530, undoubted star was a magnum of 1985continues strongly and for Grange a number102 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

wine investment & collectingVega Sicilia Unico Reserva which changed NV Champagne Brut Limited Edition in new products. A constant successhands for $700. Elsewhere, two bottles presentation boxes, which were reluctantly throughout the two-month period wasof 2003 Toro Termanthia Shiraz made let go for $380 each. For more information, the 2008 St Hallett Classic Barossa$235 and a magnum of 1993 Frescobaldi visit www.liquidasset.co.nz. Shiraz, which continues to receive strongFerre Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was support in the market. The delicious 2006knocked down at $180. *All prices are in $NZ and include Coriole Dancing Fig Shiraz Mourvedre buyer’s premium. has been another strong performer, on Australian wine sales continue to grow one occasion selling over 30 dozen on awell and Penfolds Grange remains at the CRACKA WINES single day. A new addition to Cracka’sforefront. There always seem to be vendors (JUNE REPORT) offering, the exceptional 2006 Final Cutready to sell this wine and there was a Cracka Wines saw significant growth Shiraz Cabernet (with a very favourableparticularly fine selection in this period. across May and June in both the quality Halliday rating), has been selling veryLeading the way was a magnum of ’98 at and quantity of wines sold, illustrated by an strongly. With an RRP of around $30,$935. In the standard bottle size, vintages increase in sales of over 20 per cent since it’s been fetching between $12 andof ’84, ’88, ’90, ’99 and ’02 all sold within a the previous report. It was the company’s $15 per bottle, with many purchasersrange of $370 to $470, an increase of nearly strongest two months for sales to date, already coming back for second and10 per cent on previous levels. with over 1400 cases of premium wine third lots. Over 200 cases sold in three sold. An important part of that growth was auctions alone, illustrating interest in In its most recent report, Liquid Asset a greater offering at higher price points, competitively priced wines from classicFine Wine Auctions stated that “New with most wines being sold at around 50 wine regions, even if from unknownZealand wines still maintain good per cent off their recommended price, brands. Another lesser-known wineclearance rates but there are, as yet, including those from premium wineries impressing Cracka buyers was Margaretfew which reach the higher price levels such as Taltarni, St Hallett, Wise Vineyards River’s Merops. With a recommendedattained elsewhere.” That changed this and Knappstein - which are using Cracka price over $20, both the shiraz andperiod, with a bottle of the recently much- Wines auctions to move quality stocks. cabernet were popular at under $10.lauded 1998 Martinborough Vineyard The addition of unreserved auctions forReserve Pinot Noir reaching $500. Also the likes of Penfolds Grange has also Shiraz remains Cracka’s most popularimpressive were the prices achieved for attracted many new bidders to Cracka’s premium varietal with a range of winessome older vintages of Stonyridge Larose, platform, looking to buy premium wines from a wide variety of regions continuingwith the ’95 fetching $175 and the ’97 and at an attractive price. to find good support from the market.2000 reaching $145. The 2005 Star Lane Beechworth Shiraz, Not surprisingly, the cooler months selling under $30 with a recommended Mention should also be made of three have seen many more red wine drinkers retail over $70, is still extraordinarilybottles of 1949 Mazurans Royal Reserve enter the market looking for both well- well priced for the quality in the bottle.Port which sold for $390 each and a couple known brands and to experiment withof gold bottles of Armand de BrignacAustralia’s newest and most exciting wine auction house with leading brands at up to 80% off RRPDaily wine auctionsPremium and clearance wineswww.crackawines.com.au “The only way to buy wine online” September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 103

wine investment & collectingTwo other impressive Victorian shiraz STERLING WINE For the 1945 original baby boomers’offerings also gaining a strong following AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE 70th birthday in a few years, Lyntonare the 2006 Taltarni Heathcote Shiraz and (JULY REPORT) suggests picking up a 1945 Penfolds Bin S6the ’06 Blue Pyrenees Reserve Shiraz, both With another wide-ranging catalogue Grandfather Vintage Port (Barossa Valley).of which are frequently selling at half their presented in June, Sterling Wine Auctions “It’s getting rarer and prices have doubledregular recommended price. Margaret River & Exchange managing director Lynton in the past five years. Good examples canis another region regularly featured in Cracka Barber reviews his highlights and shares his push the $200 mark. The best 60th birthdayauctions. One winery getting very strong tips on what to watch out for at future sales. present around is the 1951 Seppelt 50 Yearsupport is Wise Vineyards, especially across “At every Sterling auction the range of Old Vintage Tawny. Newly released in atheir reserve portfolio, with competition interesting old Australian ports and fortifieds smart wood case and part of the Seppeltamong bidders always strong for the 2008 grows thinner and less interesting,” says Para legend, it’s not cheap - selling forChardonnay and 2007 Eagle Bay Shiraz. Lynton. “The 1972-1992 Jane Brook 20th over $300 - but you only turn 60 once! Anniversary Vintage Port Swan Valley has On another note, the 1982 Baileys of While sales of red wines were far stronger made a remarkable contribution to the Glenrowan Bin 29 Cabernet Sauvignon andthan for whites, the past couple of months WA wine industry. Buy these interesting ’81 Baileys of Glenrowan HJT Cabernet aredid see good results for a small number ports to celebrate their 40th anniversary both too good to be true! One is the perfectof whites from well-regarded regions. next year. The 1944 Royal Oporto Vintage 30th present for this year; the other canRieslings in particular have sold well, with Port Portugal is a beaut birthday present wait for 2012.”aged wines from Mitchelton and Montara for the Beatles generation. It looks good,gaining significant interest. A young 2010 had never been out of the box and sold for Other wines to watch include the 2002Clare Valley riesling from a fancied producer around $150.” Bannockburn Pinot Noir, 2000 Bannockburnunder their Pure Clare Label, stole the show Serre Pinot Noir, 2005 Bass Phillip Premiumfor the whites - selling 75 cases around the Other birthday gift ideas include the Pinot Noir and 2003 Bass Phillip Village$8 to $10 mark in two offers. As expected, 1943 Hardys Bin C255 Show Reserve Pinot Noir. Howard Park is another to keepOyster Bay and the more competitively Vintage Port, the ’47 Hardys Bin C336 an eye on, with its 2001 Scotsdale Shirazpriced Honeymoon Bay Marlborough Show Reserve, ’71 Hardys Bin C873, ’51 a local legend in WA. Lynton believes KaySauvignon Blancs continue to be regular Hardys Bin M127 Show Reserve and ’54 Brothers Block 6 is an international star atsellers, although not quite at the rate seen Hardys Bin M177 Show Reserve. “These a strangely low price. “This ‘serious’ wineduring the warmer months. are perfect birthday presents, at any budget has all the class and elegance to impress - and much better than any table wine,” the strictest ‘Rhone-aphile’,” he says. “The For more information, visit www. says Lynton. “The ’51 and ’71 would be ’98 is ‘drink perfect’ right now.”crackawines.com.au or email help@ ideal for the big birthdates in 2011. Allcrackawines.com.au. these supreme Hardy ports sold between From the Penfolds stable, Lynton rates $80 and $100.” the ’65 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon as a *All quoted prices are per bottle, with no great collectable and conversation piece,buyer’s premium applicable. Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.auOddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps…Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What104 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

wine investment & collectingfragile but still fresh, and believes the 1990 have gone at auction over the past five Star Club Port for $94. Some unusual spiritsBin 90a has to be a contender for best years. My guess is that Lafite has doubled did not go unnoticed either. A 1985 limitedPenfolds wine since the ’62 Bin 60a. in value in the last three years alone. Will it release Vat 100 Bundaberg Black Rum was double again in the next three? Who knows clearly sought after, reaching $499, and “We all want a bottle of 1950s Penfolds - but not likely? If you want to go counter- the Queen’s Birthday was aptly marked byGrange Hermitage, but it’s very hard to cultural and catch the next wave, opt for a one buyer who purchased a Bells Queenjustify. Before purchasing, tick the boxes ’95 or ’96 Chateau Latour 1er Cru Classe Elizabeth II 60th Birthday Scotch Whisky.and make sure it’s been ‘cliniced’, is from Pauillac RP99. After all, 99 Parker points isthe famous drinking vintage - and ’55 was hard to beat.” Large-format bottles achieved excellentthe ‘must drink’ back vintage and show results, with magnums of red in highstopper before the ’71 - and that it’s at a Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange demand. The high achievers included a 2003price which won’t rock the boat too much!” conduct live online auctions every Penfolds RWT Shiraz at $304 and a 2002 month. For more information, visit www. Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz at $504. A With retail prices very steep for bottles sterlingwine.com.au. double magnum of 1998 The Fleurieu Shirazof 2004 Tapanappa Whalebone Vineyard also performed well, reaching $329.Cabernet Shiraz (Wrattonbully), Lynton GRAYSONLINEsuggests buying up this ‘big gun’ at an (MAY/JUNE REPORT) Old favourites such as 2000 d’Arenbergundervalued auction bargain and also WITH the onset of winter, Australia’s online Dead Arm Shiraz attracted strong interest,recommends buyers seek out strong shoppers turned to red wines and ports as with a case of six being sold for up to $399.Voyager wines from the best vintages, warmers to see them through the cooler Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz proved itssuch as the ’99 and 2001 Voyager Estate months. GraysOnline wine auction sales investment appeal, with one bottle of 1989Cabernet Merlot. “These are perfectly during this two-month period revealed a reaching $409. The 1994 Wynns Johncellared, plumped and primed for drinking at number of particularly good-quality reds Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon also exceededtheir best. Watch Voyager prices continue being purchased for under $50. Notable expectations, reaching $144.to rise as their efforts are recognised as bargains included 2000 Hardys Eileen Hardy‘premier cru’. I’m also a huge fan of the Shiraz, 2001 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Penfolds Bin 95 Grange continued to1990 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Growth Cabernet Merlot and 1998 Taylors draw bidders, with 40 lots sold in total.Shiraz. Now 21 years old, it’s in the prime St Andrews Shiraz. The vintages available ranged from 1971zone. Drink and enjoy.” to 2004, with the ’96 averaging $419 over The cooler period also had shoppers the period. The top price for a 750ml bottle Looking overseas, Lynton rates the reaching for ports, with non-vintage Seppelt was $929 for a ’98.2005 Guigal La Turque Cote Rotie RP100 Para Liqueur proving the most popular.personally as one of the best wines ever There were also a number of well-aged For more information, visit www.and describes the ’95 and 2001 Chateau ports sold, including a 1939 Seppelt Para graysonline.com or contact Dean Rollason,Lafite Rothschild 1er Cru Classe Pauillac Liqueur Port for $149 and a 1956 Penfolds 5 wine account manager, on 02 9741 9610 oras the ‘new black’. “Check out how prices [email protected]. * All prices listed include buyer’s premium. TURN YOUR GraysOnline sells more cases of wine online thanLIQUID ASSET anyone else in Australia. We manage the marketing, INTO CASH warehousing, logistic and payment - making it the most effective but also the easiest retail channel. Call Kieran Gallagher on 02 9741 9600 or email [email protected] September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 105

657 TASTED356 AWARDEDWORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH& SHIRAZ CHALLENGE V1This is our pre-eminent varietal tasting of the year, both in quality Rosedale Winesof the wines submitted and the elite wines that we source to add Chook Shed Barossato strengthen the line-up. What makes it interesting is the diverse Shiraz 2009 HHHvariety of style across varying price categories. Sweet fruit nose with a hint of oak, and lots of berry fruits on the soft, sweet palate. $12SHIRAZ/SYRAH Hardys Nottage SHIRAZ/SYRAH Taylors Promised Quarisa JohnnyUNDER $10 Hill South Eastern & BLENDS Land South Australia Q South Australia Australia Shiraz $10 - $15 Shiraz 2010 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHH9 TASTED 2010 HHH1/2 Savoury/smoky aromas Lots of sour cherry and3 AWARDED Fruity/confectionery 32 TASTED with a perfumed fruit plum characters, with anMixed result, with a lift to the nose and 9 AWARDED lift. Lovely fresh palate attractive nose and nicehandful offering good pleasant, fruit-driven with great depth of rich palate weight. $11.99drinking at a price but palate underscored by A disappointing result; flavours and lovely silky-a number exhibiting lovely soft tannins. $8.50 showing that it is difficult smooth mouthfeel. $13 SHIRAZ/SYRAHdeveloped, lower-quality Hammer & Tongs to make good wines at Norton Reserva BLENDSfruit characteristics. South Australia this price. However, a Mendoza Argentina $15 - $20 Shiraz 2009 HHH few showed how it can Syrah 2005 HHHHCock + Bull Estate Lifted, aromatic bouquet be done and they should Quite savoury nose 7 TASTEDGrown South with some butterscotch be commended. with some developed 3 AWARDEDAustralia Shiraz characters, and big, bold, secondary characters. Not a lot of difference in2010 HHH1/2 tarry palate. $9.90 Casella Wines Yellow Pleasant, developed, quality here for the extraNice spicy blackcurrant Tail Reserve Shiraz earthy complexity on couple of dollars, but againfruit with good balance 2009 HHHH1/2 a palate with lovely the best rose to the top!of vanilla-like oak, fine, Deep, dark, squid ink-like mouthfeel. $14.99firm tannins and a long, colour, bright, lifted, spicy Quarisa Treasures Taylors Eighty Acreslingering finish. $6.90 fruit cake and chocolate Langhorne Creek Clare Valley Shiraz nose, and youthful palate Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Viognier 2008 HHHH with hints of licorice Solid, dense, inky colour, Plum and stewed rhubarb and tar. Still needs more attractive berry nose notes on the nose. Very time. $14.99 and good length of ripe, spicy and rich in the sweet fruit flavours on mouth, with lovely Black Quarisa Johnny the soft palate. $14.99 Forest cake-like flavours Q South Australia Quarisa Johnny that linger on. $15 Shiraz Viognier Q South Australia 2009 HHHH Shiraz Viognier Complex, chocolaty 2008 HHH bouquet with plum cake- Simple, clean, plum/ like nuances. Great palate spice style with good with nice up-front fruit tannin length and some flavours and attractive savouriness. $11.99 chocolaty finish. $11.99 Lock & Key Single Vineyard Shiraz 2009 HHHH Smells of plums, lavender and spices with a dash of white pepper. Great palate weight, structure and balance, with good flavour intensity. $14.99106 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

varietal tasting SHIRAZ/SYRAH Kilikanoon Rosemount $15 - $20 Killerman’s Run District Release Shiraz 2009 HHHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz 91 TASTED Sweet-smelling, spicy oak 2008 HHHH1/2 51 AWARDED nose with fragrant, earthy Lovely intense characteristics. Full, rich complexity of varietal The 2010 vintage was and complex palate with fruit characters, perfectly a great year for shiraz great structure, length balanced by a subtlety and there were some and balance and showing of oak and fine, grippy excellent wines from some warmth on the tannins. Fresh and bright 2009, but wines of 2008 finish. $18 and offers very good and older presented drinking. $19.99 a mixed bag; the best had retained freshness and balanced acid and tannins but some were showing their age.Millbrook Barking Madeleines Fox Creek Red Baron The Black Chook TerramoreOwl Western Nangkita Single McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale Shiraz Coonawarra ShirazAustralia Shiraz Vineyard Fleurieu 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH1/2 2009 HHHH1/2Viognier 2009 HHHH Peninsula Shiraz Very young, vibrant Bright, vibrant hues, Young, bold wine withPlum and lavender 2008 HHHHH wine with a very oaky lifted, spicy, berry nose a deep rich red/purplearomas and sweet Great drinking! Complex nose showing a minty/ and a very youthful colour and loaded withchocolaty plum flavours; and perfectly structured spicy lift. The palate blackberry palate with mulberries, blackcurrantssome savouriness on wine with a wonderful lift is full-bodied, with a rich oak, firm, grippy and rhubarb characters,the mid-palate. Soft in of toasty, coconut oak on complexity of inky, tannins and long, which are balanced bythe mouth and with firm the nose and a firm, bold chocolaty flavours lingering finish. $17 some solid oak. $19tannins. $17.95 palate rich with intense layered with oak. $17.50 Gramps FiveCurrency Creek fruit cake-like flavours Thorn Clarke Generations BarossaEstate Ostrich Hill and loads of oak. $19.90 Sandpiper Barossa Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2Fleurieu Peninsula Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 More serious wine,Shiraz Viognier Deep red/purple wine with oaky aromas2009 HHH1/2 with fruity blackberry nose laced with blackberries,Lifted, aromatic, floral and a minty, perfumed cherries and spices. Veryfragrances and big, solid lift. Medium-bodied palate flavoursome palate - allred palate with well- with intense and complex chocolaty and plum-likebalanced oak and good tarry/licorice flavours. with firm tannins. A tadtannic backbone. $17 Needs time for fruit to hot. $16.99 develop. $15 DAY 1 - JUDGESTroy Kalleske Simon Rowe David FlemingWinemaker and co- Buying and promotions Winemaker forowner of Kalleske Wines. manager for Sip ’n Scarpantoni Wines.Previously with Southcorp Save Cellars. Diploma Has vintaged inGroup, including Penfolds, of Wine Marketing. California, Italy,Seppelt and Lindemans. Twelve years in the Canada and Hungary.Also vintaged with Kendall retail liquor industry, Formerly winemakerJackson in California. including managing at Seppeltsfield in theAssociate judge at the Parade Cellars in SA. Barossa Valley.Barossa wine show. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 107

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VITaylors Clare Valley Kirrihill Tullymore Zonte’s Footstep Trinity Hill M. ChapoutierShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Vineyard Clare Valley Baron Von Nemesis Hawkes Bay NZ Domaine TournonBright licorice-like Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Barossa Shiraz Syrah 2010 HHHH Heathcote Shirazaromas with a spicy lift. Lovely nose - smells like 2009 HHHH Lovely peppery lift to the 2009 HHHHWell-structured palate Black Forest cake with Attractive, juicy shiraz smoky/herbal nose, and Lovely purple hues- quite oaky but with some earthy elements. starting to show some an elegant, cool-climate- with some herbal/good concentration of Rich and intense palate development with big style palate that’s soft and green olive notes onblackberry conserve with lovely berry fruits, bold fruit flavours and approachable with lovely the nose. Palate solid,flavours. Nice finish. $18 well-managed oak and nicely integrated tannins. spicy/peppery fruit. $17 with flavours of spicesFlint’s of Coonawarra firm tannins. $19 Very more-ish! $19.95 Beach Head and blackberries. FirmRostrevor Vasarelli Hope Valley Margaret River tannins. $16.90Coonawarra Shiraz Currency Creek Cellars Tolley Shiraz 2009 HHHH Fernhill Estate2008 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHHH South Australia Vanilla aromas lift off the McLaren Vale ShirazBold, complex, oak-driven Deep crimson wine with Shiraz 2010 HHHH nose and mingle with 2009 HHHHshiraz - very chocolaty, lifted red fruit aromas Lovely lift of perfumed blackberries and spices. Lifted spice and vanilla-with heaps of excellent and licorice-like palate violets on the nose, Rich and fruity in the like aromas, and a richvarietal fruit to match and with lingering berry fruit and a juicy, lightweight mouth and offering easy and chewy, spicy palatecomplemented by perfect flavours, good oak and palate with an drinking. $19 full of soft berry fruitspicy nuances. Great firm tannins. $17.99 abundance of bright flavours underscoredwine! $18 Cimicky Trumps blackberry-like varietal with grippy tannins. $19Lawson Wines Barossa Shiraz fruit flavours. $16.99Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHHH Rosemount2007 HHHH1/2 Big, bold, inky shiraz with Diamond Label“Perfect” was how one attractive purple hues. Shiraz 2009 HHHHjudge described this Nice butterscotch notes Intense and youthful,wine. The nose is big, on the nose and up-front spicy berry fruit aromasintense and spicy-rich; licorice allsorts and plum- and rich, mouthfilling spicethe palate has a lovely like flavours. $18 and blackcurrant flavoursintensity of fruit cake-like wrapped in some lovelyflavours and lingering firm tannins. $15.99oakiness. $18DAY 2 - JUDGES Shane Harris Mario Criado Winemaker for Pertaringa Winemaker for Serafino Derek Fitzgerald Wines. Formerly winemaker at Wines. Formerly Winemaker for McLaren Vintners. Previously winemaker for Boar’s Thorn-Clarke wines winemaker with Classic Rock, Ben Riggs & Villa in the Barossa. McLaren Wines for the past Tinto. Has vintaged Previously winemaker four years. Has also completed overseas at Cazal-Viel in for Bremerton (SA), vintages in Queensland and France & Golden State Ferngrove (WA), and Victoria. Completed the AWRI vintage in California. Arrowfield (NSW) for advanced sensory course seven years. and has associate judged at McLaren Vale Wine Show.108 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

varietal tastingChurchview Totino Estate Zonte’s Footstep Willoughby Park Neil HahnMargaret River Adelaide Hills Shiraz Lake Doctor Jamie & Charli Yanyarrie BarossaShiraz 2009 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Langhorne Creek Denmark WA Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHHVibrant, mouthfilling, Oak-driven style with Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 2010 HHH Aromas of plums,dry red style with lifted, spices and coconut on the Ripe, porty nose followed Simple dry red with spices and mint, withspicy, vanillin oak and nose and nice intensity by a rich palate with aromas of vanilla and lovely green olive/herballovely fresh blackcurrant of vanilla and sour cherry mouthfilling fruit mince- butterscotch and generous fruit expression on theand rhubarb-like fruit flavours. $17.95 like flavours and showing fruit flavours. $16 palate. $17.95with a nice dash of Mojo by RockBare a hint of toffee. $19.95 Cappa Stone Wines Hardys Oomoopepper. $18.50 Barossa Shiraz Jip Jip Rocks Clare Valley Shiraz McLaren Vale ShirazBaldivis Estate 2009 HHH1/2 Padthaway Shiraz 2009 HHH 2009 HHHFrankland River Warm, inviting young 2010 HHH Classic dry red style. Bright young numberShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 wine full of licorice, Mid-weight wine with Dark berry aromas and with attractive varietalA classy nose; quite tar and black olive a complexity of spices, firm oak palate with fruit and firm, assertiveearthy with a hint characters. Great blackcurrants, chocolate spicy plum flavours. $18 tannins. Needs time. $18of green olives and tannins. Just needs and sour cherries. $17.99 Goundrey Pillar Box Reservepleasant soft rhubarb-like some time. $17.95 Cat Amongst Homestead Western Padthaway Shirazflavours with greenish Simon Lang Barossa The Pigeons Australia Shiraz 2009 HHHtannins. $15 Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Nine Lives Barossa 2009 HHH Attractive, fruity nose,Kellermeister Savoury/meaty nose with Shiraz 2009 HHH Asparagus and green intense, mouthfillingBoots Barossa quite an earthy, oaky, full- Very lifted, jammy aromas capsicums on the nose; flavours and good tanninShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 bodied palate with hints with plenty of sweet soy and Bonox on structure. $18Aromatic, spicy plum of plums and vanilla. berry fruit flavours. Still the palate. Very cool- Water Wheel Bendigobouquet and simple, Great tannins. $19.99 very youthful. $16 climate. $17 Shiraz 2009 HHHapproachable and very Jacob’s Creek Amberton Shiraz d’Arenberg Footbolt Violets, plums, pepperflavoursome blackberry Reserve Barossa 2009 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHH and spices on the nose,jam-like palate with Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Simple, essence-like Mint and spices on echoed on the firm,nice oak. $17.90 Lifted soy sauce and aromas and simple, the nose, leading to a tannic palate. $18 licorice bouquet, and slightly savoury, toasty/inky palate with a big, syrupy palate with fruit palate with soft greenish finish. $18 bold fruit flavours and tannins. $16.99 grippy tannins. $18.99 DAY 3 - JUDGESRebecca Kennedy Sam Kurtz Stuart BourneSenior winemaker at Boar’s Group red winemaker for Senior winemakerRock for the past two years. Orlando Wyndham. His at Chateau Tanunda.Previously she worked with career spans 12 vintages Formerly winery managerLanghorne Creek and Norman in Australia to date, and and winemaker forWines. Associate judge at he’s worked international Barossa Valley Estate.Adelaide and McLaren Vale vintages in Hungary and Has 13 years’ winemakingwine shows and judge at the the United States. Judge experience. AssociateRiverland wine show. Has at the Melbourne and judge at the Barossa winevintaged in California. Canberra wine shows. shows. Vintages in WA, Victoria and SA. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 109

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIMadeleines Nangkita Zonte’s Footstep Alkoomi Frankland PertaringaSingle Vineyard Baron Von River Shiraz Viognier UndercoverFleurieu Peninsula Nemesis Barossa 2009 HHH McLaren Vale ShirazShiraz 2009 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHH Smells of dark 2009 HHHH1/2Oaky, earthy shiraz Smells of rhubarb and chocolate, with funky/ Big, rich, old-school-stylewith nice complexity blackcurrant with a hint earthy notes and similar shiraz with a suggestionof fruit and fine, chalky of lavender, and tastes flavours on a light-bodied of choc mint, licoricetannins. $19.90 of ripe berries. $19.95 palate. $20.36 and plums on the nose; similar flavours but moreFox Gordon Eight 3 Rings Barossa Wolf Blass Gold intense and concentrated.Uncles Barossa Shiraz 2007 HHH Label Barossa Shiraz Nice tannin integration.Shiraz 2009 HHH Spicy/leathery aromas, Viognier 2009 HHHLift of violets, blackberries mouthfilling, savoury Inky-purple wine with 5+ $22and plums on the nose, flavours and lovely fine an earthy nose andwith soft, sweet, varietal tannins. $15 nice savoury palate Mr Riggs The Gafferfruit flavours. $19.95 with good fruit density. McLaren Vale ShirazTruffle Hill Gipsie Jack 2010 HHHHPemberton Shiraz Langhorne Creek 3-5 $24 Smells of roast meat and2009 HHH Shiraz 2007 HHH olive tapenade and has aLovely complex, cool- Earthy bouquet with a hint Mornington Estate complex palate with goodclimate style with lots of spice, and developed Mornington intensity of rich licorice/of obvious peppery fruit flavours with good Peninsula Shiraz berry flavours. Just needscharacters. $19.99 tannin profile. $18 Viognier 2008 HHH time to settle. $22Shingleback Meaty, Vegemite aromasHaycutters Robert Oatley and approachable fruity/ Saltram MaglieriMcLaren Vale Wild Oats South earthy palate with Pepperjack Barossa McLaren Vale ShirazShiraz 2008 HHH Australia Shiraz velvety tannins. $22 Shiraz 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2Nose of sour cherries and 2007 HHH Big inky/purple wine Nicely made wine withbitter chocolate. Assertive, Soft, silky wine with SHIRAZ/SYRAH with great intensity and good array of freshsavoury palate with earthy plum aromas and 2010-2009 generosity of sweet red-black fruit showingpeppery nuances. $16.95 mince pie flavours with a $20 - $25 varietal fruit nicely intensity and vibrancyMad Fish Western warm finish. $18.99 layered with the oak, and supported by chewyAustralia Shiraz 41 TASTED the tannins and the tannins. $202008 HHH SHIRAZ/SYRAH 19 AWARDED acid. 3-5 $24 ShinglebackPeppery nose with hints BLENDS McLaren Vale Shirazof lavender and plums, $20 - $25 The better producers Thorn Clarke 2009 HHH1/2and attractive olive did well with the 2009 Shotfire Barossa Tight, lean, cool-climateflavours showing a spike 7 TASTED vintage, their wines Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 style - very peppery andof spice. $17 4 AWARDED showing complexity and Pretty, violet nose with with lovely blackberryLawson Wines texture, while others good oak characters. fruit, ripe tannins, sensibleMorton’s Vineyard This line-up was struggled to capture Dark, licorice palate oak and crisp acid. $24.95Clare Valley Shiraz predominantly a shiraz/ the varietal character. with supple tannins and Harcourt Valley2008 HHH viognier blend, with Some wines were over- generous mouthfeel. $20 Sightings ShirazSweet, port-like shiraz - judges commenting that extracted or had hard acid 2009 HHHyouthful and powerful, although viognier can and tannins and green Palandri The Estates Spearmint and cedar onwith tarry/licorice add viscosity to a blend it fruit. A mixed result. Western Australia the nose, and nice spicy,characteristics. $18 can also thin out a wine. Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 berry tart and chocolate Earthy bouquet with some flavours. $20 meaty complexity, and Stone Bridge Wines nice berry flavours across Clare Valley Shiraz the length of the smooth 2009 HHH palate. 3-5 $22 Aromas of violets, chocolate and cherriesWise Sea Urchin Turners Crossing Robert Oatley and a soft, warm, redShiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz Viognier fruit palate. $20Subtle, spicy, 2008 HHH Mudgee Shirazblackcurrant aromas that 2009 HHH1/2are echoed on the palate. Molasses bouquet - Cool-climate shirazGood use of oak. $18 almost fortified-like - and a ripe, full-bodied, raisiny showing lots of promise. Has dark, licoricey fruit fruit palate. 3-5 $23 and interesting tanninDAY 4 - JUDGES profile. 3-5 $24.99Peter Douglas Rod Hooper Brian MillerWinemaker for Koonara Chief winemaker/ Sales and MarketingWines. Formerly chief consultant Beelgara Manager for Catenewinemaker for Wynns Wines. Also winemaker d’Italia, consults to severalCoonawarra. A Bachelor for Macaw Creek Wines. Australian wineries and isof Agricultural Science in Judge at the national a member of the ExportOenology, he has completed small winemakers wine Tasting Panel of themore than 20 vintages. Peter show, Cowra & Griffith Australian Wine & Brandyhas been an associate judge wine shows. Corporation. Also, a formerat the Griffith and Canberra Brand Manager withwine shows. Seppelts Wines.110 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

varietal tastingVasarelli McLaren Watershed Senses Wyndham Estate Brothers in Arms Dolan FamilyVale Shiraz Margaret River George Wyndham No. 6 Langhorne Wines Barossa2009 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHH Langhorne Creek Creek Shiraz Shiraz TempranilloLifted, confectionary- Well-made, full-bodied, Shiraz 2008 HHH 2007 HHH 2010 HHHsweet nose and creamy wine with Medium-bodied wine ‘Rustic’ nose, peaty and Lighter, red berry fruit-generous, chocolaty intense plum and with bright, fresh varietal mushroom-like, and a driven style with softpalate with sweet cherry chocolate aromas and fruit and thick, creamy big hit of sweet berry tannins and coconut-likefruit. $20.99 flavours. $24.95 mouthfeel. $21.59 flavours. $23 oak. $25Penny’s Hill Rosenvale Vineyards Hugo McLaren Vale Blesing’s Garden d’Arenberg LaughingCracking Black Estate Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHH Southern Flinders Magpie McLarenMcLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH Elegant, well-balanced Ranges Shiraz Vale Shiraz Viognier2009 HHH Fragrant, raisiny bouquet wine with licorice/ 2006 HHH 2009 HHHPlums mingle with spices and big, rich, licorice blackcurrant fruit and Slightly developed, toasty Simple, bright and clean,on the nose. Tannic palate palate with tannins, oak lovely soft tannins. $23 wine with sweet plum with lots of dark fruitswith a chocolate/plum and acid in harmony. $24 fruits, big, chewy tannins and nice spicy/herbalprofile. $22 Blackbilly and mocha notes. $20 elements. $29Wangolina Station Wirra Wirra Catapult McLaren ValeSection 67 McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH Basedow Barossa Madeleines PuddingLimestone Coast 2009 HHH Smells of Christmas Shiraz 2007 HHH Stone FleurieuShiraz 2009 HHH Dark, inky wine with a pudding and fruits of the Savoury aromas of soy Peninsula ShirazNose very European-like. menthol and dark fruit forest and has a firm, and Worcestershire Viognier 2009 HHHBig, rich fruit flavours, nose and firm, fine, tannic palate full of dark sauces and seductive, Interesting wine withsupple tannins and blackberry flavours. $24 fruits. $22 chocolaty flavours. $24 meaty black fruits, firm,bright acid. $22 mouth-puckering tanninsWolf Blass Gold SHIRAZ/SYRAH Morgan Simpson Blesing’s Garden and high acid. $29Label Adelaide Hills 2008 Basket Press Southern FlindersShiraz 2009 HHH $20 - $25 McLaren Vale Shiraz Ranges Shiraz SHIRAZ/SYRAHFlinty-green nose and 2008 HHH 2004 HHH 2010-2009jubey fruit palate with 32 TASTED Well-rounded, inky- Smoky/licorice nose $25 - $30some licorice nuances. 5 AWARDED crimson wine with and nice layering ofHas ageing potential. chocolaty fruit aromas fruit, chocolate and mint 48 TASTED The hot ‘08 vintage and flavours and chewy flavours. Ageing nicely. 22 AWARDED 3-5 $24 caused problems with tannins. $22Craggy Range ripeness and balance. 3-5 $20 “Solid stuff,” agreed theSingle Vineyard “The better wines SHIRAZ/SYRAH judges. A step up fromHawkes Bay NZ showed something 2007 & OLDER SHIRAZ/SYRAH the last class, with extraSyrah 2009 HHH other than just ripe fruit,” $20 - $25 BLENDS fruit weight overall.Nose has a pleasant commented one judge. $25 - $30 “The top wines herearray of spices and “These are not wines to 18 TASTED need time and someoak. Red fruit flavours cellar,” he added. 5 AWARDED 11 TASTED could do with decanting,”with firm acid. Elegant! 3 AWARDED said one judge. Vinrock McLaren Vale “Generally a drinkable 5+ $23 Shiraz 2008 HHH group but lacking Some unusual Chateau TanundaMadeleines Good intensity of dark, in personality and combinations here. The Chateau ShirazNangkita Single ripe fruit, spicy coffee excitement,” observed “Some of the wines 2009 HHHH1/2Vineyard Old Vine oak, chewy tannins and one judge. here were either too Complex, flavoursome,Fleurieu Peninsula good texture. $20 tannic or over-acidified,” old-fashioned style withShiraz 2009 HHH Harrington Glen said one judge.Voluptuous, old- Estate Granite Beltfashioned style - dark Shiraz 2007 HHH coconut and vanilla onand licoricey, with lots Nice combination of dark the nose and plenty ofof oak and aged sweet chocolaty fruit, toasty oak on the palate, butfruit. $24 oak, fine tannins and black fruits and white bright acid. $20 pepper characters push through. 3-5 $28Bill Hardy Martin Williams MW DAY 5 - JUDGESCorporate oenologist for Master of Wine,Accolade Wines (formerly winemaking consultant Louisa RoseConstellation). 28 years’ and pinotphile. Winemaker Chief winemaker forwinemaking experience in for Caledonia Australis Yalumba Wines withplaces such as McLaren Vale, and Metier Wines. Has seventeen vintagesWestern Australia and France. judged at all major capital completed. RegularHas judged internationally city wine shows and some senior judge on the(France and Japan), and been regional ones. capital city wine showan associate or senior judge at circuit, including chairmore than 20 state and regional of the Royal Perthwine shows in Australia. Wine Show in 2009. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 111

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VI Neagles Rock Hart of the Barossa Clovely Estate Clare Valley Shiraz Limited Release Reserve Shiraz 2009 HHHH Barossa Shiraz 2009 HHH Bright, fruit-driven nose; 2009 HHH Interesting, slightly hints of hazelnuts. Complex peaty/ porty style. Oak Very attractive and earthy aromas and almost dominates but pronounced meaty sweet fruit flavour there’s enough fruit to flavours with chewy concentration. Needs compensate. $28 tannins and plenty of time. 3-5 $25 acid. 3-5 $25 Forest Hill Great Windance Southern Western Kalleske Moppa Margaret River Australia Shiraz Barossa Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH 2009 HHH 2009 HHHH Young wine but showing Lovely wine with an Soft and spicy bouquet good complexity and abundance of peppery, with a dusty/nutty lift. nice fruit intensity with spicy shiraz fruit. Complex Well-rounded palate soft tannins. $25 and savoury. $28 soft in the mouth and offering a complex Eppalock Ridge Paul Conti flavour profile. $28 Heathcote Shiraz Mariginiup Western 2010 HHH Australia ShirazFox Creek Short Row Dandelion Vineyards Cherry and clove 2009 HHH Anvers McLaren ValeMcLaren Vale Shiraz Lionheart of the aromas. Soft and fleshy Pleasant, oak-driven Shiraz 2008 HHHHH Barossa Barossa in the mouth and tasting wine with lashings of One for the lovers of Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 of chocolaty fruit. $28 plums, chocolate and big, old-fashioned shiraz. Inky-purple wine. Intense, vanilla. $28 Big, round and long and2009 HHHH1/2 lifted fruit aromas. Lethbridge Que tastes of blackcurrants,Inviting, spicy characters Elegant red/black fruit Syrah Syrah Bowen Estate pepper and vanilla, wellon a nose layered with palate with soft tannins Geelong Regional Coonawarra Shiraz supported by a firmdark berry fruits. Firm, and good flavour length. Shiraz 2009 HHH 2009 HHH spine of tannins. $28rich and intense in the Fresh perfumed Subtle, nutty nose Tenafeate Creekmouth, with lovely length 3-5 $25 nose; smells of wild with spicy notes. Basket Press One Intriguingly complex Tree Hill Shirazof fruit and oak. Needs Harcourt Valley strawberries. Lightweight palate. Plenty of fruit and 2008 HHHHlamb! 5+ $28.50 Barbara’s Shiraz palate, good fruit oak. 5+ $29.50 Deep, brooding fruit Bendigo Shiraz complexity. 5+ $25 cake of a nose and a 2009 HHH1/2 SHIRAZ/SYRAH lovely firm palate layered Quite a meaty/savoury McGuigan The 2008 with attractive spicy/ nose with fruity highlights, Shortlist Barossa $25 - $30 peppery characters. Very and very flavoursome Shiraz 2009 HHH good wine. $25 palate tasting of spicy Savoury wine with meaty/ 35 TASTED Chalice Bridge mince pies. 3-5 $25 Bonox aromas. Much 11 AWARDED The Quest Margaret the same on the palate. River Shiraz Tenafeate Creek Mature tannins. $25 Another tough call for 2008 HHHH Basket Press the 2008 vintage. “If you Firm, extracted wine One Tree Hill Shiraz Mount Avoca were able to get the fruit with masses of peppery 2009 HHH1/2 Pyrenees Shiraz off before the heat you aromas and flavours and Good food wine. 2009 HHH had some great wines,” extraordinary length of Inviting, sweet, spicy Brooding, Christmas said one judge, before varietal fruit with some fruit aromas, intense cake bouquet and well- warning consumers, “You clever use of oak. $25.95 black fruit flavours, layered, flavoursome have to choose carefully.” Malone Wrattonbully velvety tannins and firm palate. Good food wine. Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 acid. 5+ $25 Palmer Wines Smells like cinnamon 3-5 $25 Margaret River doughnuts and toffee Shiraz 2008 HHHHH apples! Quite a tightTaylors Jaraman Truffle Hill Reserve Sladem Section Very interesting, well- and oaky palate layeredClare Valley Series Manjimup 3146 Barossa Shiraz made wine. “Terrific with elegant, pepperyMcLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH stuff,” said one judge. elements. $252009 HHHH Smells of strawberry Mid-weight wine with “A soulful wine,” thought Stockman’s RidgeOld-fashioned but confectionery with good level of fruit another. It’s bright, vibrant Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2well-made style of interesting complexity to richness, grainy tannins and youthful and laced “A wonderful wine!”shiraz - slightly meaty, the berry palate and good and nice acid backbone. with prunes, blackberries Plum nose has awith obvious but well- flavour concentration. and olives. $27.50 sprinkling of pepper.handled oak and wrapped 5+ $25 Delicious palate hasin firm, ripe tannins. 3-5 $26 good spicy length with Trinity Hill Gimblett slippery tannins. $25 3-5 $29.50 Krondorf Schwarz Gravels Hawkes Bay & Rohrlach Barossa NZ Shiraz 2009 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Smells meaty and Inky wine with musky chocolaty and has fragrances and soft, persistent, savoury chocolaty palate with flavours. Very cherry fruit showing masculine wine. $27 through. The freshness is outstanding. $26.99112 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011



WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VISeppelt Chalambar Neil Hahn SHIRAZ/SYRAH Bluegrass The Blend Wirra WirraShiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Catharina Barossa BLENDS New South Wales WoodhengePleasant, fresh, oak- Shiraz 2006 HHHH $30 - $40 Shiraz Cabernet McLaren Vale Shirazdriven style - very pretty Ageing nicely, with the 2006 HHH 2009 HHHH1/2wine with a firm, fleshy prune-like fruit holding up 12 TASTED Developed earthy/ Lovely fresh, lifted andpalate and nice peppery well. Good lift of peppery 4 AWARDED leathery wine - ripe and inviting wine. Excellentnotes. $26.50 characters and showing “Nice to see some rich. “Be great served concentration of some attractive leathery experimentation with with wild boar.” $32 blackberry, olive, earthMcGuigan The development. $28.95 shiraz blending,” said one and spice-like charactersShortlist Barossa Michael Unwin judge. The higher-scoring SHIRAZ/SYRAH on both nose andShiraz 2008 HHH Wines Umbrella wines here show how it 2010-2009 palate, with perfectlyPorty edge to the Man Beaufort Shiraz should be done! $30 - $40 matching oak. $30chocolaty/berry nose, 2006 HHH1/2 Grove Estate Deep Woodsand ‘clever’, oaky palate Big, old-fashioned, The Cellar Block 32 TASTED Estate Block 7with spicy notes and leathery/boot polish Shiraz Viognier 19 AWARDED Margaret Riversoft tannins. $25 nose. Similar palate. 2009 HHHH1/2 Now we’re talking! Shiraz 2009 HHHH “Wines we loved to Beautifully made cool- Although there were a One for the white pepperOutlaw Wines Five drink when we used to climate style. Lovely few ‘weak’ wines, the fan club - there’s lotsStar Barossa Shiraz smoke!” $26 spicy nose with a big hit best showed great fruit of it intermingling with2008 HHH Harrington Glen of white pepper and a and good winemaking. the oak and sweet darkWell-made wine that’s a Estate Granite Belt very fresh plum palate At this price we need to berry fruit. The palate hasfusion of prunes, smoky Shiraz 2006 HHH with more of the pepper separate the performers intensity and length. $32oak and boot polish with Powerful apricot showing through. $35 from the pretenders.syrupy characters. $25 characters with leathery elements and plum fruit Kalgan River Shiraz St Hallet BlackwellRed Shed Barossa characters. $25 Viognier 2010 HHHH Barossa ShirazShiraz 2008 HHH Whiskey Gully Wines Simple, bright and 2009 HHHHHLifted, spicy oak nose Black Rod Granite lively wine with lifted Described by one judge asand soft, fleshy and Belt Shiraz 2006 HHH confectionery nose being “bright and cheeryflavoursome palate; Flavoursome, oak-driven and fleshy palate with on the outside, with aobvious oak but well wine with toasty/mocha blackcurrant flavours and a deep, dark, mysterioushandled. $25 characters and sound firm, tannic backbone. $35 core!” Slightly subdued black fruits. $26 John Duval Wines nose but amazing lengthPeter Lehmann Plexus Barossa Shiraz and concentration ofThe Futures Barossa Grenache Mourvedre flavour. $35Shiraz 2008 HHH 2009 HHHHSoft, brooding nose Great wine - quiteand flavoursome, ripe oaky but not overfruit palate. Simple and the top. Wonderfulwholesome. $28 length of flavoursome, fleshy, dark berry fruitSHIRAZ/SYRAH characters. $34.992007-2006$25 - $3015 TASTED4 AWARDEDThe judges weredisappointed with thisgroup as too manywines lacked freshness.“Some of these wereobviously built for earlyageing,” noted onejudge, “and are nowpaying the price.”114 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

varietal tastingRedgate MargaretRiver Shiraz2009 HHHHAnother lovely shiraz withbeautiful oak/fruit balance.Bright berry nose andelegant, tannic palatewith great flavour profileand mouthfeel. $30La Curio ReserveMcLaren Vale Shiraz2009 HHHHVery lovely, femininestyle, with theblackberry/olive fruitbeautifully woven in withspicy/toasty oak. Haslifted aromas and palatelength. $31Upper Reach McLaren ValeReserve Swan Valley III AssociatesShiraz 2009 HHHH The DescendantSmoky oak abounds of Squid Inkhere but it has enough McLaren Vale Shirazconcentration of dark fruit 2009 HHH1/2characters to match. Long Lovely bright colour,and youthful palate has lifted berry aromas andfirm tannic spine. $32 fresh berry and plum flavours with loads ofBird in Hand oak. Beautifully madeAdelaide Hills Shiraz wine. $352009 HHHH Chalkers CrossingVery tight wine high in Hilltops Shirazacid and tannins - needs 2009 HHHtime to settle. Loaded Smells of cherry bonwith deep, dark brooding bons, tastes of licoricefruit with very subtle use allsorts. Set in a tightof oak. $35 acid frame with leathery tannins. $30Houghton Wisdom Chestnut GroveFrankland River Manjimup ShirazShiraz 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH“A stunner!” Very Complex shiraz withregal and poised. Will Old Wworld charm!age beautifully. Lovely Amazing herbal aromasblackberry varietal fruit and complex, tarrylayered with caramel-like flavours. $30oak. Has balance and Gateway Vineyardlength. 5+ $35 Mule Shiraz 2009 HHHMaygars Hill Reserve Firm, fresh and tannicShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 wine with slightly stewedLovely mid-weight shiraz prune fruit and orangewith gentle varietal fruit, peel touches. $30subtle oak and excellent Shingleback Thepeppery notes. Very Gate McLaren Valepoised! $36 Shiraz 2009 HHH “A big boy’s wine”,Kilikanoon Parable suggested one judge. HasMcLaren Vale Shiraz loads of everything and is2009 HHH1/2 incredibly long. $34.95Richly textured winewith good concentrationand length of fruit cake-like characters. Slightmedicinal touch and hotfinish. $38 September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 115

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIM. Chapoutier Wise Eagle Bay Redgate Margaret SHIRAZ/SYRAHDomaine Tournon Margaret River River Shiraz 2007 & OLDERShays Flat Pyrenees Shiraz 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH $30 - $40Victoria Shiraz Firm, textured and long, Clean, minty, fresh style2009 HHH with a lifted, spicy nose with plum/cherry fruit, 27 TASTEDFleshy and firm, with and dense, chewy, crisp acid and controlled,red/green flavours and dark fruit palate with spicy elements. $30 19 AWARDEDfirm, grippy tannins. Very chalky tannins. Still very Trentham Heathcotenice drink. $35 youthful and fresh. $35 Shiraz 2008 HHH Good result from the Dr Gilbert Phillips Brooding, savoury older vintages wherePenny’s Hill Super Premium aromas and very expert winemakingSkeleton Key Selection Pyrenees elegant, dark, spicy, comes to the fore. TheseMcLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 cherry palate. Lovely are at their peak or quite2009 HHH Very tannic wine with length. $30 advanced. “Are we stuckHot and somewhat a firm, dark core of Blue Pyrenees between the old stylemedicinal, with high black fruits. Good palate Reserve Shiraz of cellaring wines for 20concentration of spicy oak structure and length. A tad 2008 HHH years and the modernand soft plum fruit. $35 on the oaky side. $34.99 Well-structured, early drinking wines”, Aurora Bendigo, flavoursome shiraz with asked one judge.Saracen Estates Otago NZ Shiraz good spiciness amidMargaret River 2008 HHH1/2 the red/black fruit. Quite 1847 Pappy’s Braydun HillShiraz 2009 HHH Old-school style loaded warm. $32 Paddock Barossa Single VineyardAnother pepper pot! with meaty, prune, Forester Estate Shiraz 2006 HHHHH McLaren Vale ShirazRacy and spicy. Very good boot polish and soy-like Home Block “Pungent, funky and 2006 HHHH1/2length of oak and fruit characters with a dash Margaret River French-like greenness,” Big, warm, porty type ofwith a lingering end. $35 of pepper. $38 Shiraz 2008 HHH said one judge. Complex shiraz - and yet it’s very Tollana Brian and Robust, chocolaty wine; aromas and a lingering, stylish and well balancedPertaringa Over The Julie Hurse layered and interesting peppery varietal fruit and has attractive, pepper-Top McLaren Vale Vineyard Bendigo and with a touch of tar. flavour profile, with nice like characters and plentyShiraz 2009 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Will age beautifully. $35 aged characters adding of spiciness. $35Likened by one judge to Long, smooth and sexy, Ross Wines Single lovely complexity. $35 Arrowfield Estatean old-fashioned slap in with layers of olive, plum, Vineyard Barossa Show Reservethe face! Concentrated, chocolate, toast and Shiraz 2008 HHH Saddler’s Creek Hunter Valley Shirazextracted and oaky. spice characters on the If you love oak you’ll love Bluegrass 2007 HHHH elegant palate. $39.99 this wine! But it also has Langhorne Creek Lovely garnet colour with 3-5 $39 Box Stallion good varietal fruit lurking Hunter Valley Shiraz a vanilla and blackberry Mornington beneath. $35 2007 HHHH1/2 nose leading to a dry,SHIRAZ/SYRAH Peninsula Shiraz Dorrien Estate Bin Big, rich, ripe, oaky style lean and green palate2008 2008 HHH 1A Shiraz 2008 HHH with lovely blackberry showing nice spicy berry$30 - $40 Lots of coffee aromas Beautifully layered wine aromas edged with cedar. fruit flavours. $30 and a rich, warm and with a dark core of fruit Soft and flavoursome in Brangayne of Orange28 TASTED inviting palate with fresh and buckets of spice. the mouth and tasting New South Wales16 AWARDED acidity. Built to last. $30 Very flavoursome. $35.99 like blueberry pies - very Shiraz 2007 HHHH Gilberts Reserve Deviation Road complex. 3-5 $32 Rich, full-flavoured wineThis vintage has Western Australia Reserve Adelaide Hills - stylish and youthful,overshadowed some Shiraz 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHH Palandri Vita Novus yet has some leatherygood winemaking. “Just Concoction of cherries Gamey characters Frankland River age developing addingbecause you have richer, and chocolates with mingle with prune fruit Margaret River Shiraz complexity. Could doover-ripe fruit doesn’t well-handled oak and a and oak sweetness. Still 2007 HHHH1/2 with even more time.mean you should use spicy end. $30 a fresh youth. $38 Nicely matured wineslabs of new oak”, said Hartz Barn General Kilikanoon Covenant showing some eucalypt- 3-5 $32one judge. “Which the Store Barossa Shiraz Clare Valley Shiraz like characters on the Hardys HRB D641better winemakers didn’t.” 2008 HHH 2008 HHH nose and lovely rich, McLaren Vale Shiraz Dark, brooding nose and Layered, rich, thick and toasty, oak/blackberry 2007 HHHHKellermeister Dry tarry/leathery palate with flavoursome. “Needs an flavour profile on a Gorgeous, full-bodiedGrown Barossa Shiraz nice spicy notes. “Very open fire and a rack of palate with a firm tannic shiraz with an abundance2008 HHHH1/2 slurpable!” $30 lamb!” $38 finish. 3-5 $35 of powerful, rich,Smells like a raspberry blackberry fruit characterscompote and has a Palmer Wines with some dusty oakbeautifully focused palate Margaret River Shiraz in the background.with a concentrated 2007 HHHH1/2core of ripe varietal Dark purple wine with 5+ $39fruit flavours and well- a lovely musky plumintegrated oak. Still fresh bouquet. Deep andand very elegant. $34.90 sweet and astringent in the mouth, with cool fruit and drying oak. Could do with more cellaring time. 5+ $35116 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

varietal tastingEbenezer Barossa Hartz Barn GeneralShiraz 2006 HHHH Store Barossa ShirazBig, soft wine with an 2005 HHHamazing colour - almost Vanilla and berries onblack! Lovely blackberry/ the nose; blackberriesplum pudding-like fruit and spices on thecharacters and complex palate. Plenty of lifeoak profile. $35 left. 5+ $30Rockbare Burvill Red Art Single Crushed.McLaren Vale Shiraz Vineyard Barossa2006 HHHH Shiraz 2004 HHHSoft, long and weighty, Stylish, mature andwith very mature and spicy wine with an inkycomplex plum pudding- nose and well-structuredlike fruit characters palate. $30featuring on both noseand palate. $39.95 SHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDSHenry’s Drive 2010-2009 Zonte’s FootstepPadthaway Shiraz $40 - $50 Z-Force Shiraz2007 HHH1/2 Petite SirahCharry nose with crisp 26 TASTED 2009 HHHH1/2bacon-like nuances. 19 AWARDED Blackberry bouquet withSoft in the mouth, with a rhubarb-like edge.a lovely smoky flavour “You do get more bang Dark, deep, porty andprofile. $30 for your buck here, with very complex palate with more generous, intense chocolaty oak and grainyPatrick Wrattonbully fruit and good oak”, said tannins. Years ahead of itShiraz 2005 HHH one judge. “There is more yet. 5+ $40Has Old World charm, consistency here, which Mollydooker Bluewith lovely aged, earthy, we expect at this price.” Eyed Boy Southprune-like characters but Australia Shirazstill has freshness. $32 Foxeys Hangout 2010 HHHH1/2 Mornington Big, sweet and hot.Red Shed Reserve Peninsula Shiraz “A Robert Parker style”,Shiraz NV HHH 2010 HHHH1/2 suggested one judge.“Unusual” and Very young and fresh Dried berry fruit characters“eccentric” were a couple on the nose - verging on and some great cashew-of comments! Smoky floral-like aromas. Thick like oak with a touch ofaromas and smoked and jammy in the mouth menthol. $49meat flavours. $30 and carrying a jar of spice! Very good potentialBox Stallion for cellaring. $45MorningtonPeninsula Shiraz Gartelmann Diedrich2007 HHH Hunter Valley ShirazReasonable weight of 2010 HHHH1/2blackberry fruit with Extremely young wine;dusty oak and a hot rich and powerful withfinish. Drink now. $30 good concentration of blueberry andTinpot Hut Hawkes blackberry varietal fruit Crush 2011 is over...Bay Syrah 2007 HHH showing good structureWhite pepper and spice and seamless oak but to all those who got Crushed with us, weon the nose, with similar integration. $45 thank you for your attendance and support.characters on a solid,sweet palate. $30 McGuigan Hand MadeOxenberry Star of Langhorne Creek Cellar door sales and tastings, open sevenGreece McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 days all year round, 11am – 5pm.Shiraz 2007 HHH Tightly structured wine 141 Onkaparinga Valley Road, Woodside,Big, porty nose and - firm and tannic with South Australia.very mature palate for reasonable weight anda four-year-old. Lots of richness. Loads of sweetwarming alcohol. $35 blackberry fruit well matched with fresh oakChain of Ponds The giving it a vanilla lift. $45Ledge Adelaide HillsShiraz 2006 HHH Ph: +618 8389 7706Cool, leafy and long. facebook.com/barristersblockAgeing well. Has barristersblock.com.auleathery flavours and richtannins. 3-5 $33 BBW104 September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 117 BBW104 Crushed Wine State Magazine 270x59.indd 13/3/11 12:03:03 PM

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VI Chateau Tanunda Brokenwood Krondorf Symmetry Terroirs of the Hunter Valley Barossa Shiraz Barossa Lyndoch Shiraz 2009 HHH 2008 HHHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHH Pleasant young thing Intense blackberry and Young and astringent - uncomplicated - with plum-like fruit bouquet wine with reasonable attractive sweet black and well-structured, weight of juicy varietal fruit flavours. $40 seamlessly balanced, fruits, vanillin oak and sweet, rich palate with exhibiting plenty of black Howard Park Leston great flavour density. pepper characters. $48 Margaret River All it needs now is Churchview Shiraz 2009 HHH more time in the cellar. Estate Bartondale Very oaky wine Margaret River showing boot polish-like 5+ $48.99 Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 characters with mulberryHoward Park Big wine with vanilla fruit underneath. $40 Tilly DevineScotsdale Western and plums on the nose McLaren Vale ShirazAustralia Shiraz and plums on a long, Grant Burge Filsell 2008 HHHH1/22009 HHHH1/2 balanced palate that Barossa Old Vine Huge, hot, alcoholicVibrant purple shiraz with has a warming alcoholic Shiraz 2009 HHH wine - almost blackpungent green olive nose finish. $40 Attractive oaky nose in colour. Masseswith a big hit of pepper. Ross Hill Pinnacle with a medicinal note, of sweet, porty fruitGreat long, tannic palate Series Orange Shiraz and slightly stalky well matched withwith slightly muted fruit. 2009 HHH1/2 green palate. $43 chocolaty oak. “DrinkJust needs more time. Elegant and spicy, while snowed in at a with candied varietal Zito Estate Victoria ski lodge!” said one 5+ $40 fruit characters. Good Old Vine Shiraz judge. $41.50Chateau Tanunda example of a modern 2009 HHHTerroirs of the style of shiraz. $40 Smells like a smallgoods Kimbolton PoonawattaBarossa Greenock store, with the earthy/ The Rifleman Estate The CuttingsShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Buller Wines meaty savouriness Langhorne Creek Eden Valley ShirazRich, complex and Langdon Rutherglen echoed on the hot Shiraz 2008 HHHHH 2008 HHHH1/2woody style. The smoky Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 palate. $45 Nose is a complexity Sophisticated numberbacon oak characters Confectionery berry of blackberry, clove and with a huge colour. Portyare in balance with the fruit on nose and Lerida Estate Lake licorice aromas. Palate nose and soft in thespicy berry fruits. Good palate, with some nice George Canberra brimming over with mouth, with good fruitpalate length with a nice mintiness. “A pretty, Shiraz Viognier glorious sweet, ripe berry richness and some heatstructure and lots of girlie wine,” suggested 2009 HHH fruit matched by nutty on the finish from theflavour. $48 one judge. $49.95 Still a baby that’s savoury, cedar oak and some alcohol. 3-5 $49First Creek Clayfield Thomas astringent and hot medicinal notes. $42Winemakers Reserve Wills Grampians with some earthiness. Angove MedhykHunter Valley Shiraz Shiraz NV HHH Mum’s Block Barossa McLaren Vale2010 HHHH Huge porty/jammy wine; 3-5 $49.50 Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Old Vine ShirazYouthful bright red quite complex and with Sombre and serious 2008 HHHH1/2colour and stalky high acidity and licorice SHIRAZ/SYRAH wine; cool and stylish and Complex wine that’s allblackberry bouquet. notes. $45 & BLENDS with a long life ahead. oak - but it’s great oak!The palate shows 2008 Excellent warm, rounded The fruit is ripe andreasonable weight with $40 - $50 structure to the palate, rich and plum pudding-intense, Ribena-like fruit with sweet blackberry like. Starting to showand subtle oak. $42 24 TASTED fruit and matching oak. some age and touchChurchview 18 AWARDED of heat on the finish.Estate Bartondale 5+ $42.99Margaret River These wines are huge, 3-5 $49.99Shiraz 2009 HHHH ripe, rich and sweet Shark’s BlockHuge bright red reflecting the 2008 McLaren Vale Shiraz Charles Cimicky Thecolours. Ripe, raisined- vintage. These are of 2008 HHHH1/2 Autograph Barossalike fruit mingles with a very high standard Extremely soft, rich Shiraz 2008 HHHHthe drying tannins and for this vintage, which wine with a complexity Huge, chocolaty nose withthere’s an interesting shows that goodhint of barnyard-like winemakers can makeelements. $40 good wines even under difficult conditions. of compost, earth, lots of charry oak, and a blackberry and raspberry massive, jammy palate characters on the nose with a bitter chocolate and on the warm, viscous edge and quite a hot palate. 5+ $42.99 finish. 3-5 $40118 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

varietal tasting James Haselgrove McGuigan Hand Futures McLaren Made Langhorne Vale Shiraz Creek Shiraz 2008 HHHH 2008 HHH Pleasant sweet Enticing nose with a hint berry bouquet and of mint, and a palate full straightforward, spicy, of lingering flavours. $45 sweet fruit palate that has good structure, balance SHIRAZ/SYRAH and complexity. $40 2007 & OLDER $40 - 50 Wolf Blass Grey Label McLaren Vale 18 TASTED Shiraz 2008 HHHH 13 AWARDED Big, soft wine with lots of plum pudding, prune Strong class, where and plum characters and we see the benefits of exhibiting some licorice wines that are built for nuances. Finishes with a ageing. Fruit intensity hit of oak. 5+ $40 and structure are the keys here.Sladem Z Barossa Flaxman WinesShiraz 2008 HHHH Eden Valley ShirazBlack olives and pencil 2008 HHHHoak on the nose, and a Terrific bright magentaconcentrated complexity colour, great up-frontof sweet, dark, raspberry and blackberryblackberry-like varietal varietal fruit and tight,fruit and quality oak. $45 restrained cedar-like oak in the background. 5+ $45 Dolan Family Wines Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHHH Big, rich, raisined nose and huge, ripe, blackberry pie and cream palate that’s firm and soft in the mouth. Still very young. Cellar it. 5+ $49Anvers The Warrior Hugo Reserve Madeleines NSXAdelaide Hills McLaren Vale Shiraz Nangkita SingleLanghorne Creek 2008 HHH1/2 Vineyard SouthernShiraz 2008 HHHH Massive wine with Fleurieu ShirazPleasant headful of intense, complex aromas 2007 HHHHHfruit cake-like aromas - all cedar and plums - and Very old-fashioned,on the nose and an a powerful, molasses-like earthy style that’sunabashedly porty palate flavour profile. $40 quite astringent and is- very complex and with Saltram loaded with intense,a hot finish. $47 Winemaker’s dark and serious fruit Selection Barossa that’s perfectly matched Shiraz Tempranillo by tons of bacony oak, 2008 HHH1/2 making for complex Smells of licorice flavour profile. $48 and blackberry with peppery notes and has a perfumed fruit palate that’s not at all oaky. 5+ $45 Lerida Estate Lake George Canberra Shiraz Viognier 2008 HHH1/2 Lovely, complex wine that doesn’t rely on the oak to achieve it. Soft, peppery fruit and nice tannic backbone. $49.50 September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 119

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIBen Potts Fiddle’s Dorrien Estate Kies DedicationBlock Langhorne Bin 1 Barossa Shiraz Barossa ShirazCreek Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/2 2006 HHH2007 HHHHH Bright and lively, with Very complex noseHuge, concentrated aromas of blackberries smelling like smokedwine. Very complex and edged with mint. oysters, with hessian-rich plum and blackberry Well-structured palate. like characters on thebouquet, followed by Great palate length, palate. $45a warm, sweet palate with lingering raspberrywith excellent balance flavours and herbal RCV Clare Valleyand structure and loads nuances. 5+ $41.99 Shiraz 2006 HHHof blackberry pie-like Quite perfumed aromas,flavours. $40 Brokenwood and a complex leathery/ Wade Block 2 prune palate that endsLawson Wines McLaren Vale quite hot. $45Vintage Reserve Shiraz 2007 HHHHBarossa Shiraz Still amazingly young, SHIRAZ/SYRAH2004 HHHHH tight and underdeveloped. 2010 - 2008Complex bouquet with “More like a 2009”, said $50 - $60hessian characters, and one judge. Berry fruitsshowing nice bottle age and cashew oak on the 30 TASTEDand very flavoursome, nose and palate. Very 26 AWARDEDdeveloping leather palate spirity. $45that’s holding up verywell. Sweet and spicy Sladem Z Barossa McLaren Vale McLaren Valeand alive! 5+ $40 Shiraz 2006 HHHH These are big wines that III Associates Squid III Associates Squid Complex aromas are ripe, tannic and, for Ink McLaren Vale Ink McLaren Vale smelling a little like some, alcoholic. The best Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 gingerbread with a big had these characters Dark purple wine Oak, oak, oak! All astringent palate that’s in total balance. Very described as “a brick smoky and bacon-like leathery and cedary with consistent, massive wrapped in soft velvet!” but there’s plenty of plenty of berry fruits. flavours from hot years. The nose is sweet, plum and rhubarb fruit Hot finish. $45 heavy and heady. The characters pushing palate is sombre and through with tight, fine- RidgeView velvety, with hints of grained tannins and a Generations Mitchelton Wines licorice and spice. $55 hot finish. 5+ $55 Hunter Valley Shiraz Print Shiraz Kaesler The Bogan 2007 HHH1/2 2009 HHHHH Barossa Shiraz The Old Faithful Attractive, spicy, plum Oaky aromas 2008 HHHH1/2 Café Block nose with a touch of reminiscent of cinnamon Ripe, raisined bouquet McLaren Vale Shiraz the barnyard and some with some plums and a with a balance of Cognac- 2008 HHHH1/2 bottle age. Herbaceous dash of pepper. Tightly like oak characters. Hot Strong oak on the nose palate with funky oak. structured palate - and heavy in the mouth, sitting on the top of bright, lively and soft with big, ripe, licoricey prune and blueberry 3-5 $40 in the mouth, with a flavours on a long, fruit. Complex and balance of intense, weighty palate. $50 oaky on a palate that’s Anvers The Warrior sweet flavours. $55 subdued for now Adelaide Hills because it’s still young McLaren Vale Saracen Estates and needs time. $50 Langhorne Creek Reserve Margaret Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 River Shiraz Simple, earthy 2009 HHHH1/2 Mount AvocaTapestry The Vincent development showing on Pyrenees ShirazMcLaren Vale Shiraz the nose, with a warming Rhone-like style of shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 palate full of plum and with loads of intense2007 HHHHH cigar box-like flavours. $47 varietal fruit - ripe but not Perfumed, slightlyComplex layers of mint, medicinal, mintycedar and mocha on the cooked - with greenish bouquet and nicely tannins and plenty ofnose, and a complex, oaky Rowley Estate pepper and spice. “Tastes evolving flavours sittingpalate - ripe, deep and Barbara Shiraz in the beetroot-likesoft in the mouth, with an 2002 HHH1/2 expensive,” thought one spectrum. The palate Lovely soft, warm and judge. 3-5 $50interesting combination very “forgiving”. Aged, shows a nice tightof vanilla and raspberry leathery nose and sweet, structure. Plenty of lifeflavours. 5+ $45 chocolaty/farmyardy-like The Old Faithful ahead. 5+ $59 palate. $40 Top of the Hill McLaren Vale Shiraz Dorrien Estate RidgeView 2008 HHHH1/2 Anniversary Barossa Generations Massive, bright purple Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Hunter Valley Shiraz wine with a powerful hit Inky/licoricey aromas 2006 HHH of prune and blackberry and massively long Simple wine with hints fruit characters, huge, and incredibly intense of raspberries on the velvety tannins and some chocolaty/licorice nose, and a young, porty pleasant earthiness. flavours, with support palate. $40 coming from some great 5+ $50 tannins and lovely charry oak. 5+ $59.99120 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

varietal tastingBallast Stone Emetior Chateau Tanunda All Saints EstateMcLaren Vale Shiraz Noble Baron Barossa Family Cellar2009 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHVery classy, modern Nose of plum pudding Simple lolly/leather nosestyle of shiraz with with plenty of oak. Rich and lively, jammy palateprune-like fruit, lemony and warm in the mouth, with herbal touches. $50oak, attractive peppery offering soft berry flavourscharacters and showing with an attractive sweet Langmeil Orphanhints of licorice. $50 finish. 3-5 $50 Bank Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHHMr Riggs Annie’s Lane Copper Big red with spice andMcLaren Vale Trail Clare Valley herbs on the nose andShiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH fruit and cedar oak onVery attractive, Deep, dark purple wine the palate. $50perfumed, blackberry - extremely oaky butbouquet and warm, underneath there are Lavina The Aurumweighty and well- plenty of soft plum fruit Release McLaren Valestructured palate with characters. Has a big Shiraz 2008 HHHsugary-sweet rhubarb finish! 3-5 $53.99 Minty nose with sweetflavour profile. $50 berry notes. Hot palate Reynella Basket with flavours of prunesSaddler’s Creek Pressed McLaren and an oaky finish.Single Vineyard Vale ShirazHunter Shiraz 2008 HHHH 3-5 $502009 HHHH Oak-driven nose butVery youthful and with nice fruit peeking Paringa Estateintensely oaky but though. Very astringent Morningtonunderscored with palate, with oak Peninsula Shirazsome lovely blackberry dominating some lovely 2008 HHHand plum-like fruit, fruit. Needs more time Very oaky, Rhone-likefirm tannins and hot to settle. 5+ $54 style with super-richalcohol. 3-5 $50 blackberry fruit and a Gemtree Obsidian good tannic spine. $50 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2008 HHHH Pyrenees Ridge Big concentration of oak Reserve Shiraz on the nose, and a very 2008 HHH tannic, mouth-puckering Huge, oak-driven wine palate with some serious with matching ripe, oak and sombre, muted sweet Ribena fruit. High fruit. 3-5 $55 in alcohol. $50 Balthazar of the Pindarie Black Barossa Marananga Hinge Barossa Barossa Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH 2008 HHH1/2 Ripe, raisined fruit Inky, iodine-like aromas and showing leathery and a thick concentration development, but it’s of spicy prune flavours, still very fresh. $55 finishing on a hot, alcoholic note. $50 SHIRAZ/SYRAH 2007 & OLDERSt Leonards McGuigan $50 - $60Wahgunyah Shiraz Personal Reserve2008 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHH 19 TASTEDHeady spirit on the very Huge nose dominated 17 AWARDEDoaky nose, followed by by charry oak, and a leana minty/jammy palate and somewhat stalky Solid class with lotsthat has high acidity palate. $50 of highlights. “Someand a warming alcoholic beautifully developingfinish. $50 Moppity Vineyards wines that I could happily Reserve Shiraz drink,” said one judge. 2009 HHH “There were degrees of Confectionery aromas excellence here.” with a perfumed edge, and simple, lolly fruit flavours. $59.99 September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 121

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIThe Old Faithful Domaine des Lises SHIRAZ/SYRAHTop of the Hill Crozes Hermitage $60 - $70McLaren Vale Shiraz Rhone Valley France2007 HHHHH Syrah 2007 HHH1/2 27 TASTEDMusty, medicinal aromas Delicate bouquet that’s 18 AWARDEDwith hints of candied quite savoury, and a well- Mixed bag for this priceblackberries. Cool and defined, savoury palate category. “The goodvery stylish palate with an with a lingering, stalky wines shine through withabundance of blackberry finish. 5+ $52.50 a range of traditional big,flavours. Young and spicy, oaky, fruit wines andwith a tight structure. Balthazar of the fresh, minerally styles. “Is Barossa Barossa this an appropriate price 5+ $50 Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 range for new wineries?”Seppelt Mount Ida Hot, porty style of queried one judge.Heathcote Shiraz shiraz showing quite2004 HHHHH leathery-like aromas and Ross WinesComplex, old-fashioned displaying a rich, jammy, JDR Barossa Shirazstyle of shiraz with sweet palate. $50 2008 HHHHHplenty of nice aged fruit Huge wine - big, blackcharacters. Varnishy/ Balthazar of the Capel Vale The Old Faithful and attractive, with achocolaty nose and Barossa Barossa Whispering Hill Café Block dense, oaky nose andexcellent soft, sweet Shiraz 2007 HHHH Mount Barker Shiraz McLaren Vale seamlessly smoothpalate. “A really great aged Spicy/herbal nose with 2007 HHHH Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 palate with excellentred”, said one judge. $55 earthy and oyster shell- “Smells like a blackberry concentration of well like notes and hot, pie,” said one judge, and focused fruit flavoursJacob’s Creek rich, chocolaty flavours. it has a ‘serious’ dark and prominent oak. $60Centenary Hill Still very fresh and and oaky palate. $50 Harcourt ValleyBarossa Shiraz lively for a four-year-old. Bendigo Old Vine2006 HHHH1/2 Big, hot, black wine Robert Stein Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2Vanillin oak bouquet 3-5 $50 with ripe licorice on the Reserve Mudgee Intense, sweet, varietalwith a menthol lift and nose and velvety oak Shiraz 2002 HHH1/2 fruit aromas with brightgood intensity of sweet, palate offering lots of Developed, ‘tar and minty overtones. Complexripe fruit. Some great sweet, spicy varietal fruit roses’ aromas and very palate, finely textured,blackberry flavours on flavours. 3-5 $55 soft and persistent, aged long and delicious witha long, well-structured chocolaty flavours. $50 supple background ofpalate with nice spiciness. The Old Faithful Aramis Vineyards tannins. $60 Café Block The Governor Bimbadgen Estate 5+ $59.99 McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Syrah Signature Hunter Shiraz 2007 HHHH 2006 HHHH Valley Shiraz Very interesting aromas Big, soft, traditional, 2006 HHH reminiscent of old chocolaty style. Jammy Traditional old school cedar furniture! Simple, notes to the nose and shiraz - leathery and spicy, blackberry palate very developed flavours chocolaty, with some with a rich, tannic on a palate with a long, bottle age. 3-5 $50 finish. 5+ $50 hot finish. $55 Shingleback D Block The Old Faithful Mitchelton Print Reserve McLaren Vale Top of the Hill Central Victoria Shiraz 2006 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2006 HHHH Nose has perfumed 2006 HHHH Very oaky wine with floral notes, while the The colour is starting to plenty of savoury and palate is earthy and develop a brown edge. black pepper characters. green. Good drinking There’s plenty of oak Excellent oak finish. now. $59.95 on the nose and a soft, “Don’t delay - drink now,” developed, leathery/ advised one judge. $55 Paul Jaboulet savoury palate. $50 Aine Domaine de Seppelt Benno Thalabert Crozes Bendigo Shiraz Hermitage France 2006 HHHH Syrah 2005 HHH Still has young purple Soft and easy drinking, hues. Combo of black with developed aromas and blue berry fruit and plenty of complex aromas and excellent flavours. $53.99 structure to the oaky palate. Plenty of soft tannins. 5+ $55122 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011



WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIWyndham Estate Warrenmang Estate Cherubino Wirra Wirra RSW Seppelt St PetersBlack Cluster The Pyrenees Shiraz Frankland River McLaren Vale Shiraz Grampians ShirazHunter Valley Shiraz 2007 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 2008 HHH 2008 HHHHH2007 HHHH1/2 Minty/menthol bouquet Lovely youthful, medium- Vanilla and toast Fragrances of violetsFresh, vibrant and very and a bright and warm bodied wine with inky prominent on the nose, and roses with tracesclassy, with stylish, earthy/ fruit palate with obvious aromas and good with slight raisined of spicy oak. Somecherry bouquet and oak sweetness and length and concentration flavours mingling with wonderful varietal fruitgenerosity of complex, attractive, drying, of ripe fruit and gamey notes. $65 on a very tight palatecurranty flavours with fine savoury tannins. $60 integrated oak. $60 with prominent oak andbut firm tannins. Overall a Casella Wines Limited d’Arenberg The Dead Serafino Sharktooth lovely acid freshness. Thesavoury wine. $66.99 Release Wrattonbully Arm McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz flavours linger long. $70Yves Cuilleron Shiraz 2005 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 2007 HHHL’Amarybelle Dark, brooding wine Well-made, balanced Sweet cherry/plum fruitSaint-Joseph Syrah with a complex nose and savoury shiraz with with a slight floral lift,2008 HHHH of fruit and oak and a quite an intense nose and up-front toasty/Classic Rhone style. long, dense palate with and a warm palate with mocha oak. $60Huge spice and pepper big tannins. Has a nice fresh acidity and longcomplexity. Lean and overall mintiness. $60 tannins. $65 Taylors St Andrewslinear, savoury palate that, Penny’s Hill Footprint Casella Wines Clare Valley Shirazaccording to one judge, McLaren Vale Shiraz Limited Release 2006 HHH“wants to charm”. $62 2009 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Mature wine withYelland & Papps Big, ripe and jammy, Cedary oak prominent chocolaty development,Divine Barossa with creamy, silky oak on the nose and there’s pretty fruit and fineShiraz 2008 HHHH and intense varietal fruit some restrained, tannins. $60Huge, intense, porty/ supported by tight tannins aromatic, varietal fruitjammy wine with an and warming alcohol. $65 on a palate with minty SHIRAZ/SYRAHincredibly dense inky-black Nashwauk Wrecked hints. $60 $70 - $80colour. Chunky texture, McLaren Vale Shiraz Serafino Sharktoothlots of ripe fruit and good 2008 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Shiraz 17 TASTEDoak integration. $65 Chocolaty, red berry 2008 HHH 14 AWARDEDTintilla Patriarch bouquet and smooth and Big, oaky, silky-smoothHunter Valley Syrah soft, generous palate number with savoury Strong group; a step up2007 HHHH with syrupy, blackcurrant- fruit and some alcohol from the previous one,Long and very complex like flavours. $60 heat. $60 with the older wines thewine with lovely stylish, Grampians Estate weakest link. “We areoaky aromas and a clean, Streeton Reserve seeing great regionalitybright, varietal fruit palate Shiraz 2008 HHH and fruit intensity here,”with some nice savoury Confectionery-sweet said one judge. When wetannins. $60 fruit - quite perfumed - see judges agreeing with with lovely savoury oak the top wines we know and velvety tannins. $65 the quality is rising!124 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

varietal tastingShingleback Unedited Saltram No. 1 Rosemount Balmoral Palandri Paringa EstateMcLaren Vale Shiraz Barossa Shiraz McLaren Vale Syrah The Chairman Reserve Mornington2009 HHHHH 2008 HHHH1/2 2008 HHH1/2 Frankland River Peninsula ShirazDeep crimson colour Big but very classy wine Savoury, spicy and Rhone- Shiraz 2007 HHH 2007 HHHHHverging on mauve, with a solid oak core, like. Some floral overtones Jubey confectionery Quirky, feral, Rhone-likeand a very dense, inky great fruit concentration on the nose. Juicy palate aromas and simple, characters on the nose;nose with lots of forest and some lovely velvety with well-balanced tannin/ sweet fruit palate, firm roasted meat, blackfloor/barnyard notes. tannins. “Has a great acid. $74.99 tannins and low acid. $75 pepper and fresh herbs.Intriguing palate - tastes future,” predicted one Elderton Neil Good concentration oflike a spice cupboard! judge. $70 Ashmead Grand Sequel Columbia meaty ripe fruit, plenty ofBright and balanced. $70 E.Guigal Lieu-Dit Tourer (GTS) Barossa Valley USA Syrah pepper, bright acid andBird in Hand Nest Egg Saint Joseph Syrah Shiraz 2009 HHH 2006 HHH good tannin level. $80Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2008 HHHH Burgundy style with a big, Cool, smooth, mid- Trinity Hill Homage2009 HHHH1/2 Very complex, very oak-dominated nose and weight wine with warm Hawkes Bay NZLovely inky, mauve individual style, with some interesting complexity to licorice/plum fruit with Syrah 2009 HHHH1/2wine that has a dense meatiness on the nose the palate. $70 a touch of spice. $75 A wine with finesse.cherry and spicy oak and cool, peppery/mint McGuigan Leafy/savoury Rhone-likebouquet followed by flavours with tangy acid. Farms Barossa SHIRAZ/SYRAH bouquet with a prettya silky-smooth palate Typical Rhone style. $75 Shiraz 2009 HHH $80 - $100 floral lift, and a seamless,with plenty of complex Kilikanoon Oracle Ripe, generous wine glossy palate, veryflavours, firm tannins Clare Valley Shiraz with dense, stewed 18 TASTED youthful, with gorgeousand a gentle finish. $75 2008 HHHH berry fruit, tangy acid 12 AWARDED dancing flavours. $92 Huge, black and very and fine tannins. $70 Warrenmang Black Aussie-like; an intense Kilikanoon Green’s Solid group with, again, PumaThe Pyrenees wine. Minty nose with Vineyard Barossa the older wines failing to Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 slight resinous element Shiraz 2008 HHH hold up the team. “At this This is big! Powerful, and good concentration of Traditional warm-climate price point you would resinous oak aromas jammy fruit flavours. $75 shiraz. Juicy and porty, expect shiraz to hold up with a chocolaty edge McGuigan Farms with vanillin oak and and continue to age,” and rich, roasted meat Barossa Shiraz crisp acidity. $75 said one judge. “Now we flavours. Very intense, 2008 HHH1/2 Tenafeate Creek are seeing the new style with firm tannins and Very ripe, syrupy, Judgement of shiraz designed for tangy acidity. $80 traditional style with One Tree Hill Shiraz early consumption.” Hardys Eileen Hardy loads of Ribena 2007 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz characters and drying Dense, earthy nose with 2005 HHHH tannins. Quite mature a chocolaty rim. Palate Lovely rich, fruit cake-like for a three-year-old. $70 a dense minty/herbal bouquet with a powerful concentration. $70 hit of spice. Big, intense, varietal fruit palate with plenty of quality oak characters. $85 THERE IS NO BETTER COST EFFECTIVE WINE PLATFORM IN BEIJING AND THE NORTHERN PART OF CHINA THAN TOPWINE CHINA! For further information and 4 - 6 JUNE, 2012 space bookings, please contact: Beijing Peter Jackson Winestate Publishing Tel.: +61 (08) 8357 9277 Fax: +61 (08) 8357 9212 Mob.: +61 (0457) 834 880 E-mail: [email protected] www.topwinechina.com September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 125

WORLD’S GREATEST SYRAH/SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VI Dandelion Vineyards SHIRAZ/SYRAH Wolf Blass Platinum Red Queen of the & BLENDS Label Barossa Shiraz Eden Valley $100 - $200 2007 HHHHH Eden Valley Barossa Incredibly long, syrupy Shiraz 2008 HHH 22 TASTED wine - almost black in Big, chocolaty, 13 AWARDED colour. Fascinatingly commercial style of shiraz “Some really smart complex cherry liqueur that’s round and smooth wines here,” commented nose and an outstanding in the mouth. $80 one judge. “This is depth of fruit and oak the standard we are flavours in superb Poonawatta Estate looking for!” Those not balance. $160 The 1880 Eden Valley recommended tended to Chateau Tanunda Shiraz 2008 HHH be overdeveloped. The Everest Shiraz Inky, plum jam nose and 2008 HHHH1/2 warm and grippy palate Bilancia La Collina Classy and stylish, with with tarry texture and Hawkes Bay Shiraz spicy/leafy pine needle- ripe fruit. $85 2009 HHHHH like bouquet and a long, Lovely tight young thing creamy palate with fineSerafino Terremoto Nardone Baker with amazing peppery Wolf Blass Platinum definition of ripe berryMcLaren Vale The Warra Manta characters and plenty Label Barossa Shiraz fruit flavours nicelySyrah 2009 HHHH McLaren Vale Shiraz of everything else to go 2008 HHHHH blended with oak. $160Woody nose with slight 2006 HHH with it: vibrant colour, Monster of a wine Saltram The Journalminty/pine needle-like Interesting, unusual bright, spicy fruit, firm, with fantastic level of Barossa Shirazfruit. Lovely flavour style - meaty and savoury tannins and the complexity. Ripe but 2006 HHHH1/2concentration, with complex, with smoky subtlest of oak. $100 minty on the nose, and Fresh and vibrant shirazacidity and ripe tannins hints and herbal Bilancia La Collina the silky-smooth palate with plenty of lifted, mintyto balance with a zesty nuances. $88 Hawkes Bay Shiraz is dense, complex and characters. Youthful, oakyfinish. $80 1847 First Pick 2008 HHHHH solid, with huge, vibrant nose and fabulous depthDandelion Vineyards Barossa Shiraz Very Rhone-like style. flavours. $160 of flavours on an inkyRed Queen of the 2006 HHH Prunes and white pepper Wolf Blass Platinum palate supported by fineEden Valley Fresh berry fruit on on the nose, with a Label Barossa Shiraz tannins. $125Eden Valley Barossa the nose, with a trace mineral-like element. 2006 HHHHH Geoff Merrill HenleyShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 of seaweed and a Long, savoury palate with Plenty of life left in this McLaren Vale ShirazGentle, generous, cool- warming, alcoholic pebble-like character, pretty shiraz. Lovely 2002 HHHH1/2climate style with floral palate. $95 floral fruit, fine tannins perfumed minty, woody Surprisingly lively forfruit, restrained oak E & E Black Pepper and fresh acid. $100 bouquet with a dense a nine-year-old! Hasand very fine, supple Reserve Barossa complexity of oak and complex leathery/tannins. $80 Shiraz 2006 HHH vibrant varietal fruit farmyard aromas and Dense wine with lots on the well-integrated is round and smooth in of up-front fruit flavour palate. $160 the mouth, with cedary and with the oak lending flavours matched with sweetness. $95 tannins and acid. $150 BrokenwoodThe Colonial Estate Graveyard VineyardMungo Park Barossa Hunter Valley ShirazShiraz 2009 HHH 2009 HHH1/2Floral and youthful, with Creamy/oaky winedecent concentration of with lovely floral fruitred fruit and nice spicy underneath, suppleelements. $80 tannins and fresh acidity. Has a nice minty STAR RATINGS  coolness. $150 Geoff Merrill HenleyThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of McLaren Vale Shirazexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. 2004 HHH1/2All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Big, sweet wine thatprofessionals and are compared in peer still exhibits obviousclasses by three judges. oak. Traditional styleCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, of shiraz - mature anda major mail-order business. commercial. $150CD Cellar door price. E.Guigal VignesCDO Cellar door only. De L’HospiceSO Sold out. Saint-Joseph France$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Syrah 2007 HHH Big, oak-dominated Contact information pg 160. style diffused with medicinal and spice-like RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). characters. $170126 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

varietal tastingGrant Burge Greenock CreekMeshach Barossa Roennfeldt RoadShiraz 2006 HHH Barossa ShirazSweet oak nose and 2005 HHHHHpalate with minty Classic traditional shirazpeppery fruit, fine tannins with lovely complexity.and high acidity. $155 Huge, oaky characters - quite cedary and carried by big, sweet varietal fruit with porty overtones. Big tannins and fresh acidity. $270 M. Chapoutier L’Ermite Hermitage France Syrah 2007 HHHH1/2 Vibrant, stylish wine beautifully balanced with aromas of cherry liqueur and some dusty, leathery notes. Bright flavours that are a combination of herb and rose garden. $599McLaren Vale Colonial WineIII Associates Company ExileGiant Squid Ink Barossa ShirazMcLaren Vale 2009 HHH1/2Shiraz 2008 HHH Quite developed, withBig, sweet, developed, green and black oliveoaky classic with boiled aromas and restrainedlolly-like varietal fruit. $150 oak. Long, ripe oaky palate with zesty acidity. $220SHIRAZ/SYRAH E.Guigal Chateau$200+ d’Ampuis Cote-Rotie France Syrah11 TASTED 2007 HHH1/29 AWARDED Leafy/peppery bouquet and a beautifully texturedSuperb line-up - as you palate - long and savoury,would expect from this with more of theprice category. peppery notes. $235 Paul JabouletHenschke Hill of Aine HermitageGrace Eden Valley La Chapelle FranceShiraz 2006 HHHHH Syrah 2007 HHH1/2Warm, rich and ripe - very Light and somewhatminty and with great restrained shiraz.aromas and incredible Medicinal flavours,flavour intensity woven lots of white pepperthrough with earthy/ characters and warmingleathery complexity. Very alcohol. $420mature, with plenty of Torbreck RunRigalcohol heat. $549.99 Barossa Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2Penfolds Grange Subtle, caramel/quince-likeShiraz 2006 HHHHH aromas and very matureBig, sweet, oak-driven palate - quite sweet andwine but it is well with a slightly oily, smoothmatched and balanced mouthfeel. $258with the vibrant plum Domaine Rostaingpudding-like fruit. Velvety La Landonne Cote-in the mouth and showing Rotie France Syrahsome lively acidity on a 2007 HHHtight, firm palate. $700 Very restrained varietal fruit with a strong white pepper element and powerful tannins. $218 September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 127

110 TASTED68 AWARDEDSEMILLON & BLENDSWhether you say sem-ee-yon or sem-ill-on, it doesn’t matter. What De Bortoli DBHVmatters is that Australia is making the best examples of this varietal Field Blend Hunteranywhere in the world. These are great crisp whites for drinking or Valley Semillonageing and we should be taking much more notice of them. Blend 2010 HHH1/2 Pleasant fragrances of toast, honey and citrus fruit, and a flavoursome palate showing good mouthfeel and vibrancy. $18SEMILLON Grant Burge gb19 SEMILLON McLaren ValeBLENDS South Australia $10 - $15 III AssociatesUNDER $10 Semillon Sauvignon Sabbatical McLaren Blanc 2010 HHHH 4 TASTED Vale Semillon5 TASTED Floral nose with slight Sauvignon Blanc2 AWARDED muskiness, and nice 3 AWARDED 2010 HHH weight and texture to a Zesty lemon aromasThe judges commented palate with persistent Some great-value wines Peter Lehmann with a sweet/sourthat there were some spicy/grassy flavours from a small group Barossa Semillon palate showing“stretched wines”, and excellent acid showing good cellaring 2010 HHH1/2 reasonable length andwhich they thought balance. $14.45 potential. “Grab these Closed minerally nose dry finish. $17.90wasn’t surprising at this Beelgara Light NSW while you can,” the with just a whiff of Bunkers Lefthandersprice point. There were Semillon Sauvignon judges advised. lemon grass. Good palate Margaret Rivera couple of easy drinkers Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 structure and nice fruit Semillon Sauvignonin the flight. Sweet lemon nose with McGuigan weight and texture. $12 Blanc 2010 HHH nice zestiness. Good Bin 9000 Hunter Pungent nose - smellsSacred Hill NSW citrusy, varietal flavours Valley Semillon SEMILLON of tropical fruits - withSemillon Sauvignon with slatey acidity and a 2007 HHHHH & BLENDS similar characters on theBlanc 2010 HHH crisp acid finish. $14.95 Great grassy nose with $15 - $20 full-flavoured palate. $18Floral, apple-like aromas Willow Bridge lovely toasty/honeyed Brookland Valleywith a sweet and juicy Water Dancer characters developing. 14 TASTED Verse 1 Margarettropical palate - soft in Western Australia Palate has good 8 AWARDED River Semillonthe mouth. $7.50 Semillon Sauvignon complexity with brilliant Sauvignon Blanc Blanc 2010 HHH mouthfeel and flavour “Some very nice 2010 HHHBanrock Station Lightweight with gentle, profile. Nice acid balance. drinkers here without Smoky/grassy bouquetSemillon Chardonnay grassy/floral nose and Great ageing potential. being spectacular,” and a lean palate but with2010 HHH palate. Tropical notes commented one judge. enough fruit sweetnessNose already developing and fresh acidity. $12 5+ $12.99 “The 2010 vintage to carry it. $18toasty notes. Great flavour Peter Lehmann wasn’t the greatest Constable Estateprofile - quite pungent and Clancy’s South McGuigan year for aromatics so Vineyards Matildadeveloped. $9 Australia Semillon Bin Series Hunter some are a little low in Hunter Valley Sauvignon Blanc Valley Semillon fruit character.” Adelaide HillsSEMILLON 2010 HHH 2011 HHHH1/2 Semillon SauvignonBLENDS Ripe tropical aromas Delicate pale green Eldredge Clare Valley Blanc 2010 HHH$10 - $15 starting to develop. colour with light floral Semillon Sauvignon Interesting, unusual Palate full and sweet with bouquet. The palate has Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 nose of red apples11 TASTED balancing acidity. $13 quite a lean structure Citrus zest bouquet with and honey. Very good5 AWARDED St Hallett Poacher’s with low-key (for now) a minerally edge and mouthfeel and lingering Barossa Valley but long, persistent grapefruit-like flavours flavours. $18More varietal characters Semillon Sauvignon flavour profile showing on a well-balanced, De Bortoli DBHVhere, on the greener Blanc 2010 HHH excellent potential for rounded palate. Good Rainchild Hunterside, but good drinking Delicate, lemony bouquet ageing. 5+ $12.99 food wine. $17 Valley Semillonat the commercial level. and light tropical/grassy/ Viognier 2010 HHH spicy palate with good Snow pea-like aromas mouthfeel. $14 with a slight tropical edge, and simple, sweet palate. Consumer- friendly. $18128 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

varietal tastingAmberley Secret Allandale Hunter Celestial Bay McGuigan Kilikanoon BarrelLane Margaret River Valley Semillon Margaret River Bin 9000 Hunter Fermented ClareSemillon Sauvignon 2010 HHH Semillon Sauvignon Valley Semillon Valley SemillonBlanc 2010 HHH Interesting and complex Blanc 2010 HHH 2005 HHHHH 2008 HHHH1/2Grassy, nettle-like smoky/meaty element Tropical fruit characters Fantastic, rich, full- Delightful complexityaromas and very aromatic to nose, and a tight with a dusting of chippy flavoured style. “This of toast, butter, honeypalate with good varietal citrus palate. $19 oak. Quite hot in the is what aged semillon and grapefruit aromas.flavours. $19.99 mouth. $20 is all about,” enthused Palate big on flavour, SEMILLON one judge. Seamless with great mouthfeel.SEMILLON BLENDS Forester Estate from start to finish, “More like an oaked$15 - $20 $20 - $25 Margaret River with masses of toasty white Bordeaux style,” Semillon Sauvignon lemon tart characters all thought one judge. $208 TASTED 7 TASTED Blanc 2010 HHH beautifully in balance. $20 Coolangatta Estate4 AWARDED 4 AWARDED Smells of grass, herbs James Estate Wollstonecraft “Well-made wines for and nettles but is more Reserve Hunter ShoalhavenThe panel was drinking now,” agreed sweaty and tropical in Valley Semillon Coast Semillondisappointed with this the judges. the mouth. $20 2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHHH1/2group, apart from a few Lovely honeyed aromas Some lovely complex,worthies. “Some were a Cape Naturaliste Wyndham Estate mingling with toasty, lemon butter-like aromas,little dull and developed,” Margaret River Founder’s Reserve smoky, lemon sherbet followed by a well-noted one judge. Semillon Sauvignon Barossa Adelaide elements. Tight and balanced citrus/lemon Blanc 2010 HHHH Hills Semillon steely palate - very palate with excellentChateau Tanunda Some tropical/pineapple Sauvignon Blanc youthful with good mouthfeel and a veryThe Chateau Barossa notes to the nose, 2010 HHH grapefruit-like flavours good acid spine. $22Old Vine Semillon and a rich, pungent, Musky/citrus bouquet and an acidic finish. $23 Kilikanoon Barrel2010 HHHH1/2 tropical palate with and good varietal Fermented ClareFull-flavoured semillon spicy/grassy elements flavours with crisp acid Valley Semillonwith a flinty/lemon and some residual sugar balance. $21.59 2007 HHHHgrass nose and quite evident. $20 Big, full, fat wine with aa lovely rich lemon SEMILLON toasty/buttery nose. Verypalate with grassy/spicy $20 - $25 good varietal fruit palatelayers and some oak with very rich, creamyevident, supported by 21 TASTED mouthfeel and toastya lovely minerally acid 13 AWARDED citrus flavours. $20backbone. $18 Coolangatta Estate Excellent class with the Estate GrownMcWilliam’s aged wines showing Shoalhaven CoastElizabeth Mount real class. “In this group Semillon 2009 HHHHPleasant Semillon there are wines to drink Medium-green wine2010 HHHH now and some to age. that smells like a bowlZesty citrus fruit “The better winemakers of maturing citrus fruits.bouquet with some are showing an intent to Palate loaded with lovelyslight waxy-like notes. see greater complexity rich citrus flavours andVery tight palate with with further bottling good acid drive. $22lovely green lime age,” said one judge. Constable Estateflavours and slightly hard Vineyards Hunteracidity. $17.95 Valley Semillon 2010 HHHHTyrrell’s Wines Very nice, flavoursomeLost Block Hunter varietal offering goodValley Semillon cellaring potential.2010 HHH1/2 Toasty lemon aromasQuite developed for a and very good lengthone-year-old but has and weight of varietala nice line of citrusy fruit on the palate. $24flavours with minerallyacidity balancing some JUDGESphenolics. $18.99Craig Robinson Ian Hongell Tom NewtonWinemaker for Robinsons Winemaker for Peter Senior white winemakerFamily Vineyards. Has Lehmann Wines. Has with Hardy Wineworked for Hardy’s and completed vintages in Company. Formerly atHoughton wineries and California, Germany and Stonehaven Winery.in California for Golden France, and has had Has been with HardysState Vintners. Has seven Australian vintages for the past 20 years.been an associate judge as a winemaker. Has For the past three yearsat the Australian Small been an associate judge has been an associateWinemakers and the Royal at the Griffith Wine Show judge at the Griffith andBrisbane wine shows. and has judged the NSW Canberra wine shows. Wine of the Year. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 129

SEMILLON & BLENDSGumpara Pokolbin Estate RidgeView SEMILLON Coolangatta EstateBarossa Valley Phil Swannell Hunter Generations Hunter $30 + Estate GrownOld Vine Semillon Valley Semillon Valley Semillon Shoalhaven2010 HHH1/2 2006 HHHHH 2009 HHHH 23 TASTED Coast SemillonAnother semillon offering Medium-green colour Sweet, waxy lemon 18 AWARDED 2005 HHHHHgood cellaring potential. and grassy-green bouquet and good up- Outstanding class! Once Aged, greener style withFine, waxy, lemon nose bouquet with a hint of front juicy varietal fruit again the younger wines great green hues. Light,and palate with good charry oak. Lovely feel flavours. Palate has are quite austere and toasty edge to the grassy/balancing acidity. $20 to the rich, toasty palate, nice weight and a lovely need further ageing, lemon nose and has a with the flavours sitting creamy mouthfeel. $25 while the older wines lovely long, vibrant palateMistletoe more in the greener, Tempus Two Zenith showed superb balance still showing excellentReserve Hunter capsicum-like, end of Hunter Valley and character. “These varietal fruit definition. $40Valley Semillon the spectrum. $25 Semillon 2007 HHHH don’t have rough edges; Peter Lehmann2010 HHH1/2 Pokolbin Estate Very complex wine they have great fresh, MargaretSimple, subtle, green Hunter Valley with excellent vibrancy aged flavours without Barossa Semillonlemon nose and a round Semillon and lovely bottle-aged broad or fat characters.” 2006 HHHHHand juicy palate with 2007 HHHH1/2 characters. Aromatic Lively, vibrant andgood lines and nice crisp Sweet, lemony fruit citrus nose and sweet, Gartelmann complex style withacid backbone. $24 under a concentrated juicy lemon palate. $25 Reserve Hunter incredibly classy fruit. complexity of toasty/ Tempus Two Zenith Valley Semillon The citrusy nose isBimbadgen Estate honeyed characters. Hunter Valley 2003 HHHHH starting to show toasty/Hunter Valley Nice fruit weight on Semillon 2010 HHHH Limey/lemony nose buttery notes, followed bySemillon 2010 HHH the palate, with great Vibrant, lemon butter- with great vibrancy and plenty of varietal flavoursSubdued, lemony mouthfeel and masses like aromas with some hints of candied honey on a creamy palate. Veryaromas and simple, lean of citrus flavours. $25 grapefruit notes. Tight, elements. Fine, lingering, good wine. $30palate showing good Coolangatta Estate lemony and youthful seamless palate withfruit sweetness. $20 Estate Grown palate with nice an abundance of toasty, Shoalhaven Coast varietal fruit. Needs honeyed flavours andCoolangatta Estate Semillon 2008 HHHH more time. $25 still-vibrant citrus fruitEstate Grown Attractive smoky/ Hungerford Hill with crisp acid. $30Shoalhaven Coast grassy bouquet with a Hunter Valley Glandore EstateSemillon 2010 HHH herbaceous lift. Nice Semillon Elliott HunterComplex lemon bouquet palate with good weight 2010 HHH1/2 Valley Semillonwith cheesy elements, of sweet varietal fruit Nice fragrances of 2006 HHHHHand good varietal flavours and powerful, crisp toasty, honeyed, lemon Very tight and youthfulwith bright acidity. $20 acidity. $25 characters. Good fruit wine with a bright lemon weight on the palate. grass nose and plentyWhistler The Reserve Gartelmann Some early development of waxy lemon flavoursBarossa Valley Benjamin Hunter showing. $25 layered with a minerallySemillon 2010 HHH Valley Semillon Pokolbin Estate spine and soft tightNose full of toasty, 2011 HHHH Phil Swannell Hunter acidity. Will develophoneyed characters. Offers great drinking Valley Semillon even further with yearsFull-flavoured, slightly fat with its lemon/kiwi fruit 2009 HHH1/2 ahead of it. $60and oily palate. $22 aromas and fine, tight Complex varietal nose all palate brimming over toast, honey and lemonFermoy Estate with long, juicy, spicy, butter, with quite a leanMargaret River lemon flavours. $25 palate showing crunchySemillon 2009 HHH acidity. Needs time. $25Developed, buttery, Pokolbin Estatehoneyed bouquet and Phil Swannell Hunterclean, delicate and Valley Semillonflavoursome palate. $22 2008 HHH1/2 Delicate, youthful, lemonySEMILLON aromas and a brilliant$25 - $30 balance of slightly green varietal flavours with17 TASTED excellent mouthfeel. $2511 AWARDED Tempus Two Zenith HunterGetting serious here! Valley SemillonA great line-up of wines 2009 HHH1/2worth ageing, although Lovely pale green coloursome of the younger with a lemon grass-likewines from the 2010 nose and palate with avintage are still razor-sharp steely, minerally feel.and not ready to drink Very good wine. $25for a while yet. “Withthe higher-priced wines,go for the old vintages”,advised one judge.130 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

varietal tastingTyrrell’s Wines Bimbadgen Signature Allandale Hunter Tyrrell’s Wines Glandore EstateHVD Hunter Valley McDonalds Road Valley Semillon Vat 1 Hunter Elliott Hunter ValleySemillon Vineyard Hunter 2005 HHHH Valley Semillon Semillon 2009 HHH2006 HHHH1/2 Valley Semillon Luminous green colour 2005 HHH1/2 Big hit of citrus peel/Aromatic complexity 2007 HHHH1/2 with a creamy, toasty, Still tight and youthful, grapefruit aromas, andof buttered toast and Aromatic complexity of lemon nose and slight with simple citrus nose huge, citrusy flavourshoney with some limey lemon juice and buttery oily palate with nice and excellent vibrant with crisp acidity. $30varietal fruit still evident. toast on the nose. fruit sweetness. Great citrus palate. Plenty of Allandale HunterRich palate with great Huge concentration and flavour persistence. $30 acidity ensuring a long Valley Semillonflavours, lingering length of grapefruit and Tyrrell’s Wines life. $68.99 2004 HHHsweetness and soft lemon-like flavours with Stevens Hunter Constable Hershon Developed, butteryacidity. $33.99 excellent fruit weight. $40 Valley Semillon Hunter Valley fruit nose and a big,Tyrrell’s Wines Coolangatta Estate 2007 HHHH Semillon 2005 HHH broad palate rich withBelford Hunter Estate Grown Fuller-flavoured semillon Attractive, toasty lemon developed flavours. $30Valley Semillon Shoalhaven - still very youthful, butter bouquet and very Poole’s Rock Estate2006 HHHH1/2 Coast Semillon with fine, waxy lemon rich, honeyed, lemon Grown Hunter ValleyVery good wine with 2006 HHHH1/2 characters on both palate. $30 Semillon 2009 HHHexcellent glowing green Classic gunflint notes nose and palate. Nice Glandore Estate Vibrant, lemony nosehues, a delicate sweet to the pungent, fruit sweetness on the Elliott Hunter Valley and long, concentratedlemon nose and a very toasty, honeyed nose. finish. $33.99 Semillon 2010 HHH lemon flavours withcomplex, aged flavour Surprisingly tight, lean, McWilliam’s Fuller, round style with very crisp acidity.profile with long, fine green lemon palate for Lovedale Hunter crisp acidity. Slight lemon/ Needs time. $39.99acid spine. $33.99 a five-year-old wine. Valley Semillon lime fruit characters. Allandale Delicate, fine acidity. 2005 HHHH Needs food. $30 Winemakers Reserve Needs more time. $45 Quite a different nose: Hunter Valley talcy and minerally with Semillon 2010 HHH hints of aged characters. Interesting funky/cheesy Palate still lean and notes to the grassy nose. vibrant, with juicy lemon Excellent fruit palate with fruit and crisp acidity. $65 clean lines. $50AHA HALL OF FAME BEST AUSTRALIAN WINNER WINE RETAILER Discover the most interesting Wine and Spirits Store in the country, for first class service and knowledge, for benchmarking and comparitive tastings, for tastings and events. SEARCH AND SHOP ON-LINE www.edinburgh.com.au 1-7 High Street, Mitcham | Cellars 08 8373 2753 | [email protected] Keep posted on upcoming events www.edinburgh.com.au A REAL WINE CELLAR, NOT JUST A WINE SELLER September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 131

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINYARRA VALLEY & SOUTHERN VICTORIAMORE-ISH MANSION a steep valley becomes a gourmet mecca, with a cellar-door menu cooked by qualifiedCHATEAU Yering is an elegant and historic chef Tony that includes tasting plates ofRelais & Chateaux property in a heritage- dishes such as mushrooms grilled in vinelisted Victorian mansion on 250 acres leaves, and barbecued quail. Choose frombordering the Yarra River and is surrounded a bar snacks or a ‘vigneron’s table’ lunchby beautiful gardens dating back to 1854. based on your wine choices. Guests canExtremely elegant and upmarket, it has also join Michael in the winery to createbeen a luxury hotel since 1997 and is the their own sparkling wine. Michael takesideal venue for a romantic weekend or for visitors through the process, includinganyone planning to explore the highlights of disgorgement, dosage and corkage. Theythe Yarra Valley. The 32 suites are spacious are invited to watch the disgorgementand well-appointed. process and select their own dosage levels. Chef Mathew MacCartney is cooking After tasting the house range of sparkling The food is seasonal, regional andsome impressive dishes at the award- wines - and those at several different modern, ticking all the right boxes. Withwinning Eleonore’s restaurant, where the sweetness levels - visitors choose how two courses for $60 and three for $70 youservice is impeccable. Sweetwater Cafe many grams of sugar should be added to won’t break the budget - and you’ll alsooffers more casual food. Right next door their blend and whether they want to make find a savvy wine list with a good mix ofis Yering Station, one of the Yarra’s finest their wine in a white or rosé style. You can local and Old World offerings. Think disheswineries and cellar doors, which is open take your bottle home, and Foxeys Hangout such as Crystal Bay prawns with porkseven days a week. Chateau Yering is at keeps a record of your preferences so terrine, tarragon, radish and crispy ear, or42 Melba Highway, Yering; phone (03) 9237 wines can be reordered and disgorged to pan-roasted snapper with fennel, shellfish3333; www.chateauyering.com.au. your specification at any time. Phone (03) vinaigrette and crab lasagne, and roasted 5989 2022; www.foxeys-hangout.com.au. wagyu beef with shallot puree, salsify andDYI BUBBLES local shiitake mushrooms. There’s also a NEW DINING MAGNET tasting menu for $95.THERE are plenty of choices on theMornington Peninsula when it comes to eating THE NEW Baveras restaurant in Geelong Baveras is open for lunch Wednesday-out, but a cellar door that serves food only at is serving some excellent modern food at Friday and Sunday noon-3pm and forweekends is one of the best options. Brothers Cunningham Pier on the foreshore. A fine dinner Wednesday-Sunday from 6pm.Tony and Michael Lee own and operate diner with views across Corio Bay, Baveras Phone (03) 5222 6377; www.baveras.com.Foxeys Hangout, one of the most beautiful benefits from the presence of chef Matt au. Cunningham Pier is also home to thewineries/cellar doors on the peninsula. Dempsey, who earned a hat at former new City Quarter Bar. Geelong dining highlight Pettavel and is a At weekends, the architect-designed former Electrolux Young Chef of the Year. BECKONING BREWSbuilding with sweeping vineyard views over THE YARRA is well known for its many fine wines, but is also home to two excellent boutique breweries: Hargreaves Hill Brewing Company and Coldstream Brewery. Hargreaves Hill in Yarra Glen is a family owned and operated microbrewery and restaurant. The original Hargreaves Hill Brewery was destroyed by the Black Saturday fires but brewing has continued and the Hargreaves Hill bar and restaurant continues to operate from the historic National Bank building in Yarra Glen. Open seven days, from noon-11pm Monday-Saturday and 8.30am-5pm on132 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

travelbriefsSundays, it offers outside dining areas and LUXURY AND LOCOMOTIVE spa, and full kitchen and laundry. Thea fireplace in winter. Dishes may include gardens are alive with birds, making thislemon chilli-marinated squid with a warm THE LOFT In The Mill in the Dandenongs is a the perfect environment in which to breatheeggplant, chorizo and tomato salad, or tea- beautiful spot to get away from it all - and is in fresh mountain air, relax and recharge.smoked duck with baby Asian vegetables, close to the Yarra Valley but just a short drive The Loft In The Mill is at 1-3 Harold St;Chinese five spice and tamarind. Desserts from suburban Melbourne. Across the road Phone (03) 9751 1700; www.loftinthemill.are a speciality. Flights of the various from Olinda Village and just a few minutes com.au. The property also acts as abeers are very popular and the lunches from the Puffing Billy railway, this boutique regional accommodation booking service.here are delicious. You’ll find it at 25 Bell accommodation is based in an atmospheric See www.drbnb.com.St, Yarra Glen; phone (03) 9730 1905; replica of a 19th-century bluestone Englishwww.hargreaveshill.com.au. flour mill and adjacent carriage house. The Puffing Billy Railway, meanwhile, has launched a series of gourmet wine dinners Down the road, the Coldstream Brewery There are just eight rooms and suites for served aboard the charming old steam train.offers beer and cider tastings, “Meet a range of tastes and budgets but there Guests can enjoy a three-course meal withthe Brewer” tours, beer and cider food the wines - served as they travel throughmatching and a modern bar menu that is are double spas, log fires, four-poster beds the scenic Dandenong Ranges. For datesmatched to both the beer brewed on-site and private courtyards from which to select, and details phone (03) 9757 0700 or seeand local wines. Typical dishes include depending on your mood. And a 400-movie www.puffingbilly.com.au.pork spare ribs marinated in cider, lemon DVD library should you opt for a night in.and soy; and porter-marinated lamb Each suite has its own kitchenette (or, in THINK SMALLERshanks with sweet potato mash. the case of the Loft Suite, a full kitchen). For large family groups, the Carriagehouse WHILE wineries such as Domaine Chandon, Coldstream Brewery is at 694 Maroondah has three bedrooms, a log fire, double Giant Steps and TarraWarra are on theHighway, Coldstream, and is open itineraries of most wine lovers visiting theWednesday-Sunday 11am to late. Phone (03) Yarra Valley, it can also be a lot of fun to9739 1794; www.coldstreambrewery.com.au. check out some of the smaller producers. Yering Farm Wines, for instance, has aCAPTIVATING KUDOS delightful, rustic cellar door with dramatic views through to the Dandenong RangesONE of the Mornington Peninsula’s newest beyond. The tasting room is decorated withaccommodation options is Kudos at the old farming and winemaking equipmentVines, a sexy new retreat designed for and historical maps as well as many othercouples. Kudos overlooks the vines at Red interesting artefacts. Phone (03) 9739 0461;Hill and is a perfect base for exploring the www.yeringfarmwines.com.many nearby cellar doors. Set on 20 acreswith more than six acres of pinot gris, At Oakridge Wines at Coldstream,chardonnay, pinot noir and gewurztraminer David Bicknell is producing somevines, Kudos offers four luxury studio stunning chardonnays and pinot noirapartments: Kudos Devine, Kudos Tonic, - and there is an excellent on-siteKudos Essence and Kudos Sparkling. restaurant with major expansions on the drawing board. Phone (03) 9738 9900; Spa baths, iPod docks and big-screen www.oakridgewines.com.au.TVs highlight the luxury element but itis also relaxing to sit on the deck and At Punt Road, meanwhile, gueststake in the views. The furnishings are are invited to taste the Napeleonestylish and it is tempting to open a family’s wines and ciders in a convivialbottle while relaxing in the love seat. A atmosphere. Al fresco tastings are popularmassage therapist is on hand to add to on warm days. Phone (03) 9739 0666;the indulgence. Everything needed for www.puntroadwines.com.au.self-catering is provided, but the routinelyexcellent The Long Table restaurant is Above: Kudos at the Vines retreat interior.just a two-minute drive away. Phone: Opposite page. Left: Chateau Yering aerial view.1300 579 933; www.kudosvillas.com.au. Right: Coldstream brewery exterior. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 133

92 TASTED51 AWARDEDYA R R A VA L L E Y& SOUTHERN VICTORIAOverall, this is an excellent region for pinot noir and St Huberts Yarra Valley Giant Steps Sextonchardonnay and this year is no exception. Its cool- Chardonnay 2010 HHHH1/2 Yarra Valley Chardonnayclimate location allows for wonderful varietal intensity, Beautifully harmonious and 2010 HHH1/2cloaked in an elegant structure. delicate chardonnay with Interesting wine with floral the creamy lees, toasty oak, apple bouquet and quite bright fruit and fresh acidity austere grapefruit-like palate. all working well together to Well put together. $35 produce a lovely wine. $27 Seville Estate Reserve Giant Steps Arthurs Creek Yarra Valley Chardonnay Vineyard Yarra Valley 2009 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Very interesting and differentSPARKLING Elmswood Estate Pale straw-coloured wine with style - quite oaky, with juicy Yarra Valley Riesling a clean lemon sherbet nose mineral characters and a3 TASTED Traminer 2010 HHH and nicely balanced, weighty long, tightly wound palate.1 AWARDED Sweet apricot bouquet and palate with lots of flavour and light, simple palate with good excellent length. 3-5 $40 3-5 $60Elmswood Estate Methode fruit weight and balancingChampenoise Chardonnay acidity. $20 Giant Steps Tarraford Coldstream HillsPinot Noir 2009 HHH Yarra Valley Chardonnay Yarra Valley ChardonnayStrawberry, apples and limes French Island 2010 HHHH 2010 HHHon the nose and a creamy, Pinot Gris 2010 HHH Bright, lifted aromatics on the Creamy/malty aromas with awell-balanced palate with pinot Pure varietal nose smelling nose and lively citrus palate subtle citrus element, and niceflavours. $30 of pears. Simple but with some oak and crisp acid big, warm palate. $28.99 flavoursome palate; slight backbone. Not complex but aOTHER WHITE warming alcohol. $21 very good drink. $40 Dixons Creek EstateVARIETALS Yarra Valley Chardonnay& BLENDS Innocent Bystander Yarra Seville Estate Yarra Valley 2009 HHH Valley Pinot Gris 2010 HHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Rich, creamy, lemon curd-like14 TASTED Good gris fullness here, with a Lively, mandarin-like bouquet style with plenty of flavour and5 AWARDED smoky touch to the nose and layered with some pungent everything in balance. $28 simple apple/citrus palate. $20 oak characters. Silky- smoothA mixed group with, as one in the mouth, with lovely nutty/ Elmswood Estatejudge said, “the cream rising to CHARDONNAY savoury flavours. $30 Yarra Valley Chardonnaythe top”. The better wines had Yarra Ridge Yarra Valley 2010 HHHgood fresh varietal fruit which 21 TASTED Chardonnay 2010 HHHH Nicely focused floral/citrusset them apart from the rest. 12 AWARDED Lovely example of a subtle, characters with some oak and cool-climate type of chardonnay. good fruit weight. $25St Huberts Yarra Valley Excellent class from one of It’s light and pretty and veryRoussanne 2010 HHHH Australia’s premium regions well made. “A very classy Elmswood EstateSmells of lime cordial with for this variety. Some of the wine,” said one judge. $19.99 Reserve Yarra Valleysome spiciness. Lovely creamy early bottled wines here from Chardonnay 2010 HHHpalate - has texture and balance the 2010 vintage will be even Toasty nougat bouquet withwith subtle oak and a citrusy better in the future. Some had floral fragrances, and an oak-finish. Well-made wine. $29.99 oak overshadowing the fruit for driven palate. Give it time. the moment. 3-5 $40Coombe Farm Yarra Valley Coldstream Hills ReserveArneis 2010 HHH1/2 Yarra Valley Chardonnay PINOT NOIRStraightforward, pear-like 2010 HHHH1/2aromas with nice floral Golden straw colour with subtle 28 TASTEDcharacters. Lean palate, good oak characters threaded through 18 AWARDEDtexture and high in acid. Nice the peachy nose. Palate showsstyle. $21 flair and exuberance, with Great region for pinot noir, excellent floral flavour profile. as evidenced by some of the high scorers here. The 2010s 5+ $55.99 will grow in stature so watch this space! “The 2010 vintage could be a classic for both chardonnay and pinots from this region,” said one judge.134 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

regional tastingSt Huberts Yarra Valley St Huberts The StagPinot Noir 2010 HHHHH Yarra Valley Pinot NoirIntriguing wine; has plenty of oak 2010 HHHHbut there is some great varietal Very good nose - it’s all earthy,fruit lurking beneath and lovely beetroot and raspberry-like,velvety tannins with slight tomato with perfumed elements.juice-like characters bringing Velvety-smooth in the mouth,everything together. $32.99 with ripe fruit flavours. $23.99 Giant Steps Tarraford Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Big, full style with loads of flavour. Lovely ripe varietal fruit and toasty oak mingles with cola-like characters. $45Coombe Farm Henley Hill Yarra Valley Awarded by AustralianYarra Valley Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Wine Showcase 2011: Earthy nose with great2010 HHHH spiciness. Palate a balance Pinot Gris 2010 92ptsFragrances of berry fruits and of sweet fruit and subtle oak. Chardonnary 2009 94ptscherry jam. Palate lean, for Needs time to flesh out. $22 Pinot Noir 2010 93ptsnow, but has good underlying Reserve Cab Merlot 2008 93ptscherry fruit. Will improve with Innocent Bystandercellaring. 3-5 $25 Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2Giant Steps Sexton Delicate and popular styleYarra Valley Pinot Noir with fragrant, perfumed2010 HHHH bouquet and flavoursome,Nose has a real raspberry Cherry Ripe-like palate. $25profile with perfumed lift.Nice long, soft and layered Tollana Robinsonpalate with lovely meaty depth Yarra Valley Pinot Noirand richness. 3-5 $40 2008 HHH1/2 Quite a medicinal style,Giant Steps Gladysdale with the earthy fruit showingVineyard Yarra Valley a green edge. Has powerfulPinot Noir 2010 HHHH alcohol sweetness andTarry aromas with a perfumed/ chewy tannins. $39.95violet-like lift. Chewy in themouth, with nicely textured Coldstream Hillspalate and attractive, mouth- Yarra Valley Pinot Noircoating tannins. 3-5 $45 2010 HHH Tarry oak dominates the nose,Killara Estate Yarra Valley and there’s good varietalPinot Noir 2010 HHHH fruit on the velvety palate.Youthful, deep red wine that Potential! 3-5 $34.99needs time in the cellar. Hasraspberry aromas and ripe Coldstream Hillsvarietal fruit flavours with nice Reserve Yarra Valleyspicy nuances. 3-5 $30 Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Ripe and developing, meaty nose, and slightly sweet and chewy palate. $84.99Sticks No 29 Vineyard Hirsch Hill Estate A famliy owned vineyardSelect Yarra Valley Yarra Valley Pinot Noir providing you with premiumPinot Noir 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH wines and the best Outlook!Dark and earthy nose with Dark, brooding style with Trade & mail order enquiries to:threads of ripe raspberries. lots of oak; a touch medicinalPalate is big and oaky but has and with some beetroot [email protected] fruit weight to back it up. characters. $30 CD (03) 5962 2890Just needs time. 5+ $45 Seville Estate Reserve Yarra Valley www.outlookhill.com.au Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Creamy, strawberry jube nose with meaty notes. Simple palate - light and pretty with plenty of flavour. $60 September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 135

YARRA VALLEY & SOUTH E RN VIC TORIA Elmswood Estate Yarra Elmswood Estate Cosmo Wines Yarra Valley Valley Merlot 2010 HHH1/2 Yarra Valley Cabernet Shiraz 2010 HHH Fresh and lively wine with Merlot 2010 HHH Lifted, plummy aromas and nicely earthy/minty aromas and bright, Fresh and fragrant, with nice structured, syrupy palate with sweet fruit on the lovely soft oak and earthy berry fruit with good fruit concentration. $25 and silky-smooth palate. $28 velvety tannins. $25Sticks Yarra Valley Coombe Farm Yarra Elmswood EstatePinot Noir 2010 HHH Valley Merlot 2009 HHH CABERNET Reserve Yarra ValleyBright bouquet of cherries and Solid, chunky wine with a red SAUVIGNON Shiraz 2010 HHH berry profile showing dusty-like Lively, lightweight, floral style characters. $25 5 TASTED with very pretty nutty oak and Killara Estate Yarra Valley 2 AWARDED spicy berry fruit. $50 Sangiovese 2010 HHHbeetroot. Lovely sweet fruit on A nice bright, fresh wine with French Islanda simple palate. 3-5 $22 green olive-like fruit and plenty Shiraz 2008 HHH of potential! $25 Elmswood Estate Ripe, meaty shiraz with cedaryYarra Ridge Yarra Valley Reserve Yarra ValleyPinot Noir 2009 HHH CABERNET Cabernet 2010 HHHH oak and dark berry fruit showingFragrant, malty nose with hints BLENDS a green edge. 3-5 $23of strawberries. Good ‘attack’ of Lifted leafy/cassis bouquet andberry fruit on the palate. $21.99 4 TASTED lovely sweet fruit palate with Yarravale Reserve Yarra 2 AWARDED good tannins, great balance and Valley Shiraz 2006 HHH Mixed bag of fragrant, medium- long, lingering finish. A great wine Surprisingly fresh and bright,Balgownie Estate bodied styles. There were with a long life. 5+ $50 with red berry fruits and slightlyBlack Label Yarra Valley some issues with older oak, resinous oak. $33.11Pinot Noir 2010 HHH which held a few back. Yarravale WinesMeaty wine with lingering Yarra Valley Cabernetoak dominating the solid fruit Seville Estate The Barber 2005 HHH SWEET WHITEScharacters. $24 Yarra Valley Cabernet Lively claret style with minty/ Merlot 2010 HHHH eucalypt fruit and velvety tannins. 2 TASTED Mid-weight wine with a classic Ageing nicely. 3-5 $29.80 claret-like nose showing leafy 2 AWARDED perfumed characters minglingOTHER RED with chocolaty elements and a SHIRAZ Balgownie Estate BlackBLENDS & sweet fruit palate. $20 Label Yarra Valley PinotVARIETALS 9 TASTED Noir 2010 HHH Meaty wine with lingering6 TASTED 6 AWARDED oak dominating the solid fruit characters. $244 AWARDEDSmall, solid group, with the Solid group of cool-climate Yarrawood Tall Taletempranillo worth a look. wines showing lovely spiciness Yarra Valley Botrytis and plenty of character.Yarravale Reserve Seville Estate Yarra Valley Riesling 2010 (375ml) HHH Good floral aromas mixing withYarra Valley Tempranillo Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 raisined notes, and a lovely Meaty and chocolaty nose with2008 HHHH nice spiciness. Palate elegant creme brulee and glace fruitBright red wine with nice sweetand spicy red fruit characters, and stylish with excellent oak. palate. 3-5 $19.50 CDhigh acid, velvety tannins Great drinking. 3-5 $30and some attractive earthy Toolangi Vineyardcharacters. 3-5 $33.11 Estate Yarra Valley Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Pretty berry nose and nicely textured palate with fresh sweet fruit flavours and lingering, spicy finish. 5+ $38JUDGES Adrian Marchioro Mark O’Callaghan Robert Paul Victorian State Manager for Winemaker/Manager Proprietor of Vintager Four Seasons Fine Wines. for Yarra Burn Winery. Winemaking Services. Formerly winery manager Completed the Evans Formerly, senior consultant at Witchmount Wines and Editorial in 2007. for Wine Network cellarmaster for MoMo Panel chairman of the Australia. Was the chief restaurant in Melbourne. Victorian Wine Show. winemaker for Montrose/ Sommelier at Flemington Associate judge at the Craigmoor Mudgee for 11 Racecourse. Associate Adelaide and National years and also worked for judge at Ballarat and the Wine Shows. Wyndham Estate, Chapel Victorian Wine Show. Hill, Coriole and Amberton.136 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

Market your wines to the world!Join the Australian Wine Industry Export and Buyersmission to Verona in 2012Vinitaly 2012 – Verona, Italy, 25-28 March 2012The world’s premier Wine Exhibition and the ideal forum for export-readycompanies and for buyers sourcing international wines.Market your wines and spirits to around 50,000 international buyerssourcing new suppliers from all over the world - buyers from Western andEastern Europe and the UK, Asia, the US and South America.The Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI) in Melbourne isthe Australian representative office of Vinitaly and provides assistance toAustralian wine industry professionals attending the show:- Space and stand bookings at preferential rates- Flight bookings and confirmed accommodation in Verona- Logistics- Visitor registrationICCI Melbourne also actively promotes and facilitates contact betweenthe Italian and Australian wine industries and provides trade services forthe wine industry: market research, business listings, business matching andappointment agendas.For more information contact:Level 5, 499 St Kilda Road,Melbourne VIC 3004, AustraliaTel: 03 9866 5433E: [email protected]

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINRIVER REGIONS - SA, VIC & NSWGRIFFITH’S GROWING Estate, Berton Vineyards, De Bortoli,ATTRACTION McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate, Melange Wines, Pirromit, TWG Australia, WarburnTHE CITY of Griffith is trying to draw Estate, Westend Estate, Yarran Winesattention to its role as the biggest wine plus Zappacosta Estate, which is onlygrape production area in New South Wales open by appointment.- and aims to attract more tourists. GriffithCity Council has created a new attraction THEATRICAL BREWING- a big wine bottle situated among rowsof vineyards at the Griffith Airport as the MILDURA has been much better knownfirst stage of a promotional push. for wine grapes and fine food than beer - until recently. Producing five naturally Council chairman Duncan McWhirter brewed beers year-round, along withsays the local community is proud of micro-breweries. More recently he set up a boutique brewery in the Yarra Valley. Pub meals designed to complement the beers are served between 12-3pm and 6-9pm. Brewery tours are also available; bookings are essential. The Brewery is at 20 Langtree Ave and is open from noon Monday- Thursday, 11am-to late Friday-Sunday. See www.mildurabrewery.com.au.its links to the wine industry. “There unique seasonal brews, the Mildura LEARNING EXPERIENCEis concern around at the moment with Brewery is situated inside the formerthe water debate and all that, so it’s Astor Theatre in the town’s restaurant WINE lovers will enjoy the new Bordernice to be able to focus on some of the precinct. It creates beers that are inspired Wine Room, a restaurant and wine barachievements that the city of Griffith by and named after local produce, in Albury run by one of the region’s best-has made, and in particular our wineries landmarks and themes (think Mallee Bull known wine educators, David Sutherland.which have been one of the shining and Stefano’s Pilsner), named in honour In addition to offering good food and alights. We thought it was an opportunity of local celebrity chef and brewery co- range of wines, David also conductsto promote those local wineries – it’s just owner Stefano di Pieri. wine tasting classes matched with tapas,a massive industry in Griffith.” The Art Deco theatre has been reborn The wine bottle, made from stainless and still holds regular performances -steel, stands over three metres tall and is of the brewer’s art. The state-of-the-artthe first in what is hoped will be a dozen brewery is in full view of patrons drinkingbig bottles on display, representing all or enjoying a meal in the facility’s ownthe local wineries, although they will not pub. Further back is a fermentation areabe filled with the real thing. and a modern bottling line capable of packaging 3000 bottles an hour. Griffith and surrounds produce over75 per cent of NSW wine, worth about Head brewer Rod Williams has been in$800 million a year, accounting for the industry for over 20 years, workingup to about 20 per cent of Australian for London brewers Young & Co ofproduction. The dozen Griffith wineries Wandsworth and the Ringwood Brewerywith cellar doors are Baratto, Beelgara in Hampshire, one of Britain’s pioneering138 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

travelbriefsand a range of educational events. The Beaufort House is an ideal base from which FRESH AND TASTYvenue is designed as “a refuge for those to discover history, mountains, rivers andwho are looking for somewhere different wildlife - and to sample a wine or two at THE RIVERLAND is renowned for its freshto meet family and friends and enjoy the same time. Boasting original European fruit, vegetables and local produce, andthe good things in life” and aims to offer antiques and luxurious themed rooms, each visitors can buy direct from the farmers atsophisticated wine, food and music in a unique, Beaufort House is also home to the Riverland Farmers’ Market on Saturdayrestful atmosphere. The Altar Wine Bar and the Coat of Arms from 7.30 to 11.30am at the Senior Citizens Kaffeehaus Restaurant, featuring Austro- Hall on Crawford Tce in Berri. David has been a wine writer and educator, Hungarian specialities such as Hungarianretailer and wholesaler, marketer and sales goulash and spatzle. The region grows a comprehensiveexecutive who has worked in both Australia Open Wednesday to Sunday, the Altar and diverse range of fruit, vegetable,and the UK and had stints with Brown features antique furnishings, with the altar native foods, smallgoods, meat andBrothers and All Saints. organically grown produce that are showcased at the markets. Bakery items The al a carte menu changes seasonally, from the 1850s former Presbyterian church including wood-fired-oven breads andwith specials introduced every couple of in Adelong as its centrepiece. Visitors are pizza bases, biscuits, pavlova shells,weeks. Each dish is matched with a wine invited to relax with a choice of regional and a variety of multicultural delicacieswhich is available by the glass. Think starters wine or beer, schnapps or port and there are on sale, along with fresh local eggs,such as pork and pistachio terrine with are regular live blues and jazz nights. Rooms honey, fresh olives and locally producedcornichons, crostini and a pear and saffron range from $245 to $110 per night. Beaufort olive oil, emu and goat meat.chutney or mains like spiced duck breast on House at 77 Tumut St, Adelong; phone (02)white polenta with a baby beetroot, shaved 6946 2273; www.beauforthouse.com.au. The Riverland is fortunate to havefennel, rocket salad and shiraz glaze. a diverse multicultural community,The Border Wine Room is upstairs at 492 FESTIVE TOWNS including Italians, Greeks and Indians,Dean St, Albury, and is open 4pm-midnight who also sell ready-to-eat meals thatTuesday-Saturday. Phone (02) 6021 0900; THE RIVERLAND Wine and Food Festival, have been prepared using traditionalwww.borderwineroom.com.au. to be held from October 13-16, is aimed cooking methods handed down through at promoting the wine and food industries the generations. The market featuresBOUTIQUE CHARM on the South Australian banks of the River regular cooking demonstrations and Murray. The Riverland comes alive during promotions and may soon move to aADELONG is a charming and historic little the event, with wine, food, multicultural fun new site on the Berri riverfront next totown just off the Hume Highway in the Snowy and celebrations in Berri, Loxton, Renmark the Visitor Information Centre. See www.Mountains on the banks of the Adelong and other Riverland towns. Visitors are invited riverlandfarmersmarket.org.au.River. It’s a tiny spot, a National Heritage- to enjoy locally produced wine, beer andlisted gold mining town that’s home to gourmet food and a range of entertainment Left: Atlar wine bar.Beaufort House, a boutique hotel nestled on the banks of the Murray. For details see Right: Yarran Wines exterior.in the foothills of Kosciuszko National Park. www.riverlandwineandfood.org Opposite page. Above & left: Mildura brewery & pub dining. Below: De Bortoli Bilbul cellar door. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 139

96 TASTED54 AWARDEDRIVER REGIONSWines from these regions offer the greatest value in De Bortoli Sacred Hill SAUVIGNONAustralia and are the backbone of the wine industry. Unwooded Colombard BLANCThey have a place as everyday drinking wines and, Chardonnay 2010 HHHduring the cooler vintages, punch above their weight. Lifted, apple blossom-like aromas 5 TASTEDAnd if you haven’t tried the world-class Riverina and a light, crisp palate with 3 AWARDEDbotrytis sweet wines you have really missed something. vibrant tropical flavours. $7.50 Some easy-drinking winesSPARKLING De Bortoli Sacred Hill OTHER WHITE with nice varietal expression Brut Cuvee NV HHH VARIETALS and aromatic lift.4 TASTED According to one judge, it “smells of bread and butter 4 TASTED 30 Mile Sauvignon Blanc3 AWARDED pudding”. Simple palate with 3 AWARDED 2011 HHH1/2 apple flavours. $7.50 Advanced, grassy nose with Balance of sweetness and light, herbaceous notes, and OTHER acids is important here, along a zesty lemon palate with WHITE BLENDS with fresh fruit flavours. crunchy acidity. $9.99 7 TASTED Berton Vineyard The White Banrock Station 4 AWARDED Viognier 2010 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Toasty aromas mingling with 2010 HHHDeakin Estate Sparkling “Good fruit in the glass at citrusy elements, and a full- Restrained aromas; someChardonnay Pinot Noir a good-value price,” said bodied palate with some very asparagus and grassy hints.NV HHH1/2 one judge. “Vibrancy and nice varietal richness. $12.99 Good presence of varietal fruitAttractive aged honeyed freshness is the key.” flavours. $9aromas, followed by a complex, Deen De Bortoli Vat 6savoury palate with a lovely De Bortoli Sacred Hill Verdelho 2010 HHH Trentham Sauvignontoasty flavour profile. $10 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Smells of bath salts and lavender Blanc 2010 HHH 2010 HHHH and has a fresh, zesty palate full Subtle, banana-like esters on Lifted, cut-grass aromas of bright citrus flavours. $12.90 the nose, and very varietal with delicate floral nuances. palate that’s light and fresh. $14 Beautifully structured palate 919 Vermentino with bright, aromatic, lemony 2010 HHH CHARDONNAY flavours. Well-made wine. $7.50 Spicy aromas with a citrus edge, and a stylish palate with 10 TASTEDRamco Wine Group De Bortoli well-integrated fruit. $20 7 AWARDEDCharisma Blanc Sacred Hill Traminerde Blanc NV HHH Riesling 2010 HHHH PINOT GRIGIO Solid class with complexityAged, citrusy aromas and Perfumed, floral bouquet built into the styles throughgood creamy flavour intensity; and very flavoursome candy- 5 TASTED good winemaking.buttery and lemon-like. $7.50 sweet palate with rose oil-like 1 AWARDED characters. Great example of Trentham Estate this blend. $7.50 Style and viticulture is Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 Salena Estate still to be defined for these Oaky style showing elegance Ink Series Bianco regions. Disappointing! and length - sweet mid-palate D’Alessano 2010 HHH1/2 with an aromatic finish. $16 Nose of green olive tapenade, Lindeman’s Bin 85 with similar characters on the Pinot Grigio 2010 HHH Lindeman’s Cawarra palate mixing with herbal/grassy Reserved aromas with nutty Chardonnay 2010 HHH characters. Interesting! $14.99 pear/green apple flavours on a Powerful oak sitting on top of rich lively palate. $8.99 melon/peach varietal fruit. Soft and creamy in the mouth. $6.99140 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

regional tastingDe Bortoli Sacred Hill ROSE Leopardwood YendaChardonnay 2010 HHH Petit Verdot 2009 HHHSmells of stone-fruits with 3 TASTED Stylish, well-made wine withsubtle oak. Up-front melon attractive fruit, nice spicinessflavours complemented by 0 AWARDED and great complexity. $18spicy oak. $7.50 OTHER RED 919 SA Riverland MERLOT & BLENDSCock + Bull Estate VARIETALS Durif 2009 HHHHGrown South Australia & BLENDS Rich and very flavoursome 11 TASTEDUnwooded Chardonnay wine smelling of chocolate and 6 AWARDED2011 HHH 10 TASTED spices and with big, bold, blackCreamy melon/peach bouquet, 8 AWARDED fruit flavours filling the big, Real surprise here for theand soft and creamy palate tannic palate. $38 judges, with these wineswith tropical flavours. $6.90 Strong class, with durif and Psyche Smuggler offering good drinking withoutHardys Nottage Hill tempranillo doing well in Carmenère 2010 HHH1/2 the green edge that is oftenSouth Eastern Australia these warmer regions. Aromatic violet/blueberry seen in cooler regions.Chardonnay 2010 HHH bouquet, and velvety-softFresh, vibrant, greener- Deen De Bortoli Vat 1 palate with complex flavours Trentham Estate Merlotstyle chardonnay with good Durif 2009 HHHH and oak adding sweetness and 2009 HHH1/2flavour intensity and creamy Fresh plum aromas with spice. $12.49 Elegant style with vibranttexture. $8.50 layers of fragrant, spicy oak, berry aromas, and up-front30 Mile Chardonnay followed by a long, huge and fruit flavours with chocolaty2010 HHH well-balanced palate rich with elements and some spice. $16Aromatic fruit, fresh oak and flavour. Good food wine. $12.90some residual sugar balanced Burk Salter Southby acidity. $9.99 Australia Merlot CabernetDeakin Estate 2008 HHHChardonnay 2010 HHH Soft, chocolaty nose and palateCashew nougat aromas with with rich varietal fruit and savouryinteresting wild ferment licorice/leather notes. $16notes, and complex fruit/oakflavours. $10 Hardys Nottage Hill South Eastern Australia Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Smoky, earthy strawberry aromas and flavours with attractive gamey notes. Good attempt! $8.50 919 SA Riverland Trentham Cock + Bull Estate Tempranillo 2009 HHHH Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Grown South Australia Dark and earthy on the nose, Lifted strawberry nose and Merlot 2010 HHH with perfumed, violet-like vibrant intensity of cherry Well-put-together wine with nuances. Elegant palate with flavours. Good fruit; good red fruits, astringent green rich fruit, ripe tannins and good winemaking. $14 tannins and vanillin oak. $6.90 oak treatment. $35 Salena Estate Ink Series Petit Verdot 2009 HHH Smells of spearmint and red berries. Solid varietal fruit flavours on a complex palate. $14.99Adam Clay Eric Semmler JUDGESPenfolds winemaker in Proprietor of 919 Winethe Barossa Valley. Has Company. Formerly Matthew Pickcompleted vintages at winemaker for the Hardy Yalumba winemaker forMarchesi de Frescobaldi Wine Company. Previously Oxford Landing brand.in Chianti and Pellegrin in with Brown Brothers Previously winemakerCalifornia. Judge at the and Auldstone Cellars. for Leo Buring, YaldaraAlternative Varieties show Has spent eight years as and Leasingham withand Cairns wine show. fortified winemaker for two vintages in Austria. Hardys. Associate judge at Judge at the Adelaide Rutherglen, McLaren Vale Hills and Griffith wine and Riverland shows. shows. Associate at Barossa and Clare. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 141

RIVER REGIONSBurk Salter Moorunde Burk Salter South TrenthamMerlot 2008 HHH Australia Cabernet Murphy’s Lore ShirazMedium-bodied wine with Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 Cabernet 2009 HHHsome nice chocolaty age, good Big, sweet, fruit-driven style - Raspberry and tobacco on theplum fruit and fine tannins. $28 quite complex, with plenty of nose, and good fruit weight fig jam, blackcurrant and olive on the palate with good oak tapenade characters. $16 support. $10 30 Mile Cabernet Cock + Bull Estate Grown Salena Estate Sauvignon 2010 HHH South Australia Shiraz South Eastern Australia Some intensity of violets and 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHH blackcurrant on nose and palate, Well-balanced, fruit-driven style Perfumed violet bouquet and with boot polish notes. $9.99 with nice spiciness and the rich, aromatic plum palate with Psyche Reserve Cabernet chewy, chocolaty tannins adding great tannin length. $19.99 Sauvignon 2007 HHH structure and length. $6.90 A lift of violets on the leathery De Bortoli Sacred Hill SWEET & nose with menthol flavours on Syrah Dolcetto 2010 HHH FORTIFIED a firm tannic palate. $19.99 Light, bright and sweet, with perfumed strawberry fruit and 8 TASTEDBuller Beverford SHIRAZ & BLENDS some attractive spiciness. $7.50 5 AWARDEDMerlot 2009 HHH Lindeman’s Bin 50Cherry cola nose and sweet, 22 TASTED Shiraz 2010 HHH Excellent botrytis semillonsaromatic fruit/oak flavour 10 AWARDED Vibrant, spicy berry fruit, with the from the Riverina, which isprofile. Well-made wine. $13 vanillin oak adding sweetness known for this style. There wasYarran New South Wales Lots of borderline wines, with and aromatics. $8.99 also one very good vintageMerlot 2010 HHH more consistency showing Shot in the Dark Shiraz fortified and moscatos withGreat varietal fruit integrity in the blends, but there were Petite Sirah 2010 HHH strong varietal presence.balanced with coffee-like oak. some highlights from higher- Easy-drinking wine with spicyEasy-drinking wine. $10 scoring varietals. berry fruit, vanillin oak and big Saddler’s Creek tannic backbone. $9.99 Botrytis SupremeCABERNET 30 Mile Shiraz Semillon 2008 HHHHH& BLENDS 2010 HHH1/2 Cock + Bull Estate Grown Excellent example of style. Big, rich, extracted style full South Australia Shiraz Very complex and smelling7 TASTED of spicy/chocolaty/licorice Viognier 2010 HHH of quinces, apricot jam and4 AWARDED flavours, with vanillin oak Very soft, approachable citrus rind, with long, intense adding sweetness and wine with a rich, fruity nose concentration of apricot andSome good mid-weight complexity. $9.99 and red cherry palate with toffee flavours. Great wine! $36wines here. Trentham Shiraz subtle oak. $6.90 2009 HHH1/2 Angove Butterfly Ridge Lou Miranda EstateShot in the Dark Cabernet Aromas of licorice and fruit South Australia Shiraz LeOne Riverina BotrytisShiraz 2010 HHHH cake, and long, elegant, dark Cabernet 2009 HHH Semillon 2009 HHHH1/2Vibrant, rich and well-made fruit palate with persistent Fresh and fruity style with good Fresh, vibrant muscat aromaswine with leafy berry fruits, rich tannins. $14 length of stewed fruit, chocolaty and nicely balanced palate withtannins, good oak and attractive oak and an olive edge. $7.25 lovely citrusy flavours and goodminty characters threaded level of acidity. Refreshingthrough. $9.99 drink for a warm summer’s day. $19.95 STAR RATINGS  De Bortoli EmeriThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Moscato NV HHHHexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Intense apricot/honeysuckleAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry bouquet, and complex palateprofessionals and are compared in peer with excellent golden toffee/classes by three judges. lemon curd flavour length andCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, concentration. $13a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price. 919 Limited ReleaseCDO Cellar door only. Fortified 2009 HHHHSO Sold out. Elegant, Portuguese-like style$N/A Price not available at time of printing. that’s rich with mulberry/ blackberry fruit, warming spirit Contact information pg 160. and nice chewy chocolaty characters. $50 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). De Bortoli Sacred Hill Moscato 2011 HHH1/2 Lovely example - not too sweet - with fresh, vibrant Turkish delight aromas with a musk stick and green lime-like palate. $7.50142 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011



travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINHAWKE’S BAYREVEL IN THE his cuisine as “modern European galleries and other Napier attractions.RIVER OF GOD prepared in a contemporary style”. After wine tasting, guests can stroll to Starter choices at lunch may include marinas and local wildlife reserves.TE AWA, a single-estate vineyard in the confit and cured salmon with beetroot, The spacious and comfortable roomsheart of the Gimblett Gravels region, tobiko and seaweed caviar, mango and have cable or satellite TV and high-is one of Hawke’s Bay’s major tourism citrus salsa, horseradish sauce and a speed internet access - and smallmagnets, offering both a top-notch micro salad; or maybe pan-roasted king dogs are permitted. Rates start fromcellar door and a fine dining restaurant. scallops, cauliflower puree, orange $135 per night and the motel is at theThe full Maori name given to the site is segments, radish and lemon foam. corner of Meeanee Quay and TarehaTe Awa o Te Atua, which means ‘River Mains may feature sous-vide Hawke’s streets, Napier. Phone: +64 6 835 9633;of God’, a reference to the mysterious Bay lamb rump with crushed potato, www.fairley.co.nz.subterranean streams over which the Jerusalem artichoke puree, butter-vineyards are situated and from which glazed vegetables, herb-crumbedthe local wines draw their characteristics. Hohepa feta cheese and mint jus, orThe 50-hectare vineyard sits in the braised pork belly and pork ravioli, crispytrails of the old Ngaruroro River, which prosciutto, parsnip and apple puree withmeandered through the region until a vegetables and roast potato.huge flood changed its course in 1867.Winemaker Ant McKenzie is the man in Al fresco dining is popular duringcharge in the winery. summer, while in the cooler months the Te Awa cellar door is open Thursday-Monday Established in 1992 by the Lawson 10am-4pm, with the restaurant servingFamily, Te Awa was purchased in 2002 by lunch from noon and dinner on Friday andAmerican businessman Julian Robertson, Saturday nights. There are longer openingwho also owns Dry River in Martinborough hours during summer.and the luxury resorts The Lodge at Cape Te Awa is at 2375 State Highway 50, Hastings;Kidnappers, Kauri Cliffs and Matakauri phone +64 6 879 7602; www.teawa.com.Lodge. The welcoming winery restaurant CHECK IN AT NAPIER FAMILY’S WINE VENTUREis popular with locals, and award-winningchef Francky Godinho has created a THE Best Western Fairley Motor Lodge FAMILY-owned and operated Ash Ridgemenu to complement the estate-grown offers affordable accommodation for Wines has a new cellar door up and runningwines, which are joined on the wine visitors to Napier. The comfortable just a 10 minute drive from Hastings, 15list by standouts from the Te Awa and serviced apartments are located minutes from Havelock North and 20Kidnapper Cliffs’ ranges. between Westshore Beach and the minutes from Napier. Situated in stunning Ahuriri Estuary and are within striking scenery and surrounded by olive groves Francky, who has worked at the distance of several restaurants, art and vines, the modern tasting room drawsvaunted Burj al Arab in Dubai, describes144 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

travelbriefson the inspiration of the materials used Fifteen minutes away from Hastings, EARTHY EXPERIENCEin creating wine - steel and oak - in its Havelock North village and the Art Decoconstruction. Visitors are welcome to stroll capital of the world - Napier city - Cape THE NEW de la terre cellar door has beenthrough the vines, take in the views and Estate is at 34 Gordon Rd, Te Awanga, a labour of love for owners Tony and Kayesoak up the atmosphere and are invited to Hawke’s Bay; phone +64 6 875 0337; www. Pritchard, and the name is a reference tobring along a picnic. cape-estate.co.nz. both the vineyard soils and the earth brick construction used for the winery and tasting Ash Ridge is the brainchild of Chris and HISTORIC HAWKE’S BAY facility. Virtually all the building work was doneSonya Wilcock, who developed the vineyard by the couple, from laying the mud bricks andin partnership with Chris’s parents and HAWKE’S Bay is the oldest wine region fitting the cedar roof shingles, to making andreturned home four years ago after living in New Zealand and the second largest, installing all joinery and furniture. Leadlightin London, Singapore, Sydney and Zurich, despite often being overshadowed by some features include a large viewing window intowhere Chris worked as a foreign exchange of the country’s more high-profile regions. the winery, while the furniture is made fromtrader. Chris has studied both viticulture and recycled native timbers. The windows andwinemaking and the family also operates It is also the leading producer of red wines. furniture were handcrafted in Tony’s rammedCardonness Lodge, a luxurious bed and Located at 39.4˚S (Madrid in Spain 39.4˚N), earth workshop adjacent to the winery.breakfast adjacent to the vineyard. Hawke’s Bay has a warm maritime climate and over 80 per cent of New Zealand’s Visitors can expect informative tastings and The new cellar door was opened in January plantings of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and are sometimes invited into the productionand is at 2543 Roy’s Hill Rd, State Highway syrah grapes. Visit www.winehawkesbay. area to learn about winemaking techniques50, Hastings; phone +64 21 817 545; www. co.nz to download a Wine Trail Map to and the Pritchards’ philosophy – and oftenashridgewines.co.nz. help plot visits by foot, bike or car to the enjoy tastings of unfinished wines from tanks 70 wineries in the region. or barrels. Tony, who has almost 30 years’CAPE ESCAPE experience as a winemaker, started his boutique operation in 2005 while also workingCAPE Estate at Te Awanga Downs, near as a winemaking consultant for a number ofCape Kidnappers, offers luxurious and private clients throughout New Zealand and overseas.accommodation for groups and is an idealbase for some leisurely vineyard exploration. Food platters are available for guests to enjoy inside or outside. The cellar door is at The spacious homestead is set on 1000 1426 Taihape Rd between Napier and Taihapeacres of rolling farmland and overlooks and is just 20 minutes from Hastings. Openingvineyards. It is fully equipped for up to 13 hours are 10am-5pm at weekends and onguests including two super king/en suite public holidays, or by appointment. Phonebedrooms in the homestead, a super king/ +64 6 874 3224; www.delaterre.co.nz.en suite bedroom suite in a separate gardencourthouse, one double and two single Above: de la terre cellar door.rooms with a shared bathroom upstairs and Centre & below: Cape Estate.an additional queen bedroom and single Opposite page. Above: Te Awa cellar door & restaurant.bedroom with their own bathrooms. There Below: Best Western Fairley Motor Lodge.is broadband internet access, a log fireand a billiard table and piano to keep allmembers of the party entertained. A privatechef is available on demand. The house opens out onto a sunnyoutdoor living area with a circular tableseating up to 15 people, while thegarden boasts two grass tennis courts,a swimming pool with large entertainingarea, and a wood fire barbecue area.Summer rates start from $1200 per night,based on six people staying, while winterrates are discounted. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 145

148 TASTED110 AWARDEDH AW K E ’ S B AYA memorable tasting, reflecting the outstanding quality Coopers Creek SV The Selaks Winemaker’sof the late-ripening 2010 vintage in Hawke’s Bay for Limeworks Hawke’s Bay Favourite Hawke’s Baychardonnay and syrah, and the region’s notably warm, dry Chardonnay 2010 HHHHH Chardonnay 2010 HHHHripening season in 2009 for Bordeaux-style reds and syrah. Powerful, youthful wine with Fleshy, finely structured wine,The 2010 chardonnays are a delight, showing concentrated, good potential. Biscuity, fully barrel-fermented, withvibrant flavours woven with fresh acidity, and are likely to oaky nose, showing good fresh, vibrant, grapefruit and nutbe long-lived. In 2009, the Indian summer favoured the complexity. Rich palate with flavours and a creamy-smoothreds, yielding dense, tight-knit wines, built to last. concentrated, well-ripened finish. Generous, with excellent stone-fruit and nut flavours, ripeness and depth. $23Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. good acid spine and a long Vidal Reserve SeriesWines available in export markets are shown as finish. “Lovely wine,” enthused Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). one judge. $20 (UK) 2010 HHHH Sacred Hill Riflemans Very tight and youthful, withSPARKLING Sileni Cellar Selection Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay indigenous yeast aromas Sparkling Rosé HHH 2010 HHHHH offering good complexity.6 TASTED Crisp and lively, merlot-based Generous bouquet, rich and Good weight on the palate,3 AWARDED bubbly with fruity, berryish layered, with creamy oak and with fresh, lively peach and aromas and flavours. Slightly yeast lees notes, coupled with nectarine flavours and aSmall, solid but unexciting sweet style, not complex vibrant fruit. Fleshy, with ripe creamy, persistent finish. $23class. That’s no surprise, given but offering enjoyable, easy citrus and stone-fruit flavours, Villa Maria Reservethat only two of the wines drinking. $20 dry and tightly structured. Hawke’s Bay Chardonnaywere bottle-fermented. Weighty, concentrated wine, 2010 HHHH CHARDONNAY full of potential. $50 (UK, US) Richly fragrant bouquet, with aDolbel Estate Methode Villa Maria Single Vineyard hint of butterscotch. Fleshy, withTraditionnelle 2006 HHHH 27 TASTED Keltern Chardonnay strong, ripe, peach and nectarineStraw-hued, with a rich, toasty 22 AWARDED 2010 HHHH1/2 flavours, showing excellentbouquet, showing flowers, ‘Struck match’ aromas, noted harmony, and a tight, lastingnuts and bread characters and The combination of a late- by two judges. Elegant, tightly finish. Well worth cellaring. $32considerable development. ripening season and a settled, structured wine, citrusy and Villa Maria SingleMade from a 50/50 blend of dry autumn has yielded minerally. Full-bodied and quite Vineyard Kelternbarrel-fermented pinot noir top-flight chardonnay from oaky, with impressive complexity Chardonnay 2009 HHHHand chardonnay, it is full- the 2010 vintage in Hawke’s and a sustained finish. Still very This wine initially divided theflavoured and dry, with strong Bay. The panel found plenty of youthful. $37 (UK) panel, but finally won goodpersonality. $29.95 rich, finely structured wines, Dolbel Estate support. Concentrated and promising to unfold well over Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay citrusy, it has buttery, smokyTrinity Hill H Blanc de the next five years. 2008 HHHH (‘burnt match’, according to oneBlancs NV HHH1/2 Light yellow, with a nutty, judge) notes adding complexityAttractively scented, vivacious slightly developed bouquet. and a long finish. $37 (UK)wine, chardonnay-based and Mouthfilling wine, maturing Askerne Reservebottle-fermented. Light and lively, well, with strong, grapefruit-like Hawke’s Bay Chardonnaywith subtle ‘fresh baked bread’ flavours, buttery and toasty, 2009 HHH1/2aromas, moderate complexity and a dry finish. Two judges This estate-grown, hand-and very good freshness, delicacy found the oak slightly assertive, picked and barrel-fermentedand harmony. $29 but all enjoyed the wine’s wine split the panel. One richness. $29.95 judge found it concentrated Mission Reserve and complex; another slightly Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay under-ripe; the third pleasantly 2010 HHHH weighty and oily. $30 Tight, elegant, finely poised C.J. Pask Declaration wine, hand-picked at Ohiti and Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay French oak-fermented. Citrusy, 2009 HHH1/2 with strong, grapefruit-like Pale gold, fleshy wine with ripe flavours and buttery, nutty notes stone-fruit flavours, showing adding complexity. $25 (A) considerable complexity. Toasty, buttery style, with very good weight and depth. $35146 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

regional tastingCrossroads Hawke’s Bay Cypress Hawke’s Bay Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Lime Rock CentralChardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2010 HHH Chardonnay 2010 HHH Hawke’s Bay SauvignonCitrusy, slightly spicy and leesy Fleshy and forward, in a Mouthfilling, with fresh peach Blanc 2010 HHHwine, partly barrel-fermented, noticeably high-alcohol style and grapefruit flavours and All judges noted slightlywith a creamy, buttery texture with ripe, tropical fruit flavours, gentle, spicy, nutty notes adding developed, ‘canned peas’and very good flavour depth. $20 a hint of cashew nuts and a a touch of complexity. $19 notes on the nose, whileEsk Valley Winemakers creamy, rounded finish. $21 enjoying the wine’s depth andHawke’s Bay Chardonnay Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay SAUVIGNON harmony. Green-edged and2009 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2010 HHH BLANC slightly nettley, it is now softSmoky oak influence, Fleshy and sweet-fruited, with and approachable. $18.90 (A)described by one judge as ripe, peachy, slightly mealy 10 TASTED‘burnt match’. Strong stone- flavours in a weighty, soft style, 5 AWARDED Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bayfruit flavours with integrated already drinking well. $24 Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHHoak and balanced acidity in a Sacred Hill The Wine Solid class of mouthfilling, Freshly scented, with lime andcomplex style that provoked Thief Series Hawke’s Bay ripely herbaceous dry wines, green melon aromas, showingplenty of discussion. $31 (UK) Chardonnay 2010 HHH offering good, easy drinking, good intensity. Light and livelySileni The Lodge Youthful, fresh and lively, with but no highlights. on the palate, with tropical fruitHawke’s Bay Chardonnay citrusy, appley flavours, a flavours and a finely balanced,2010 HHH1/2 subtle seasoning of oak, some Askerne Barrel Fermented rounded finish. $19 (A, UK)Deliciously easy-drinking style lees-aging complexity and Hawke’s Bay Sauvignonwith considerable complexity a crisp finish. Elegant wine, Blanc 2010 HHH Vidal Reserve Seriesand richness. Strong, ripe, worth cellaring. $29 Mouthfilling and dry, with Organic Hawke’s Baypeachy flavours, seasoned with Sileni Cellar Selection satisfying depth of tropical fruit Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHtoasty oak, and full malolactic Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay flavours, ripe and rounded. Bio-Gro certified wine, freshfermentation giving a hint of 2010 HHH Shows good weight and and limey, showing a goodbutterscotch. $32 Fresh, fruit-driven style with texture, with some complexity, balance between tropical fruitBabich Family Estate plenty of vibrant, citrusy flavour but slightly oaky. $20 and herbaceous flavours,Individual Vineyard and a hint of butterscotch. Soft, appetisingly crisp and dry. $23Gimblett Gravels easy drinking. $20 Corbans Private BinChardonnay 2010 HHH Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon OTHER WHITESYouthful, elegant, fruit- Black Label Chardonnay Blanc 2010 HHHdriven style with fresh, crisp, 2009 HHH Crisp, dry, slightly minerally 7 TASTEDpeachy flavours, showing Fleshy, with ripe, citrusy, spicy style with good depth of 6 AWARDEDgood depth, and a sensitive flavours, fresh and smooth. melon/lime flavours and ause of oak. $25 (A) Some buttery complexity, but touch of complexity. Fresh, Hawke’s Bay is still widelyC.J. Pask Gimblett Road lacks the richness of the better with satisfying length. $23 underrated as a source ofChardonnay 2008 HHH 2010s. $34 (A, UK) aromatic whites. The region’sCitrusy aromas and flavours, cooler sites have a provenwith appley notes and crisp ability to produce goodacidity. Easy-drinking style with examples of such varieties asa touch of complexity. Still gewurztraminer and pinot gris.fresh and lively. $19 WINESTATE WINE OF THE YEAR Exclusive Subscriber Tasting of the 60 best wines of Australia and NZ of 2011 National Wine Centre, Adelaide Friday 7 October 6pm - 8.30pm Subscribers and Sponsors entry is free Guests $75.00 Limited to 250 tickets only! Ticket bookings 08 8357 9277 or [email protected] September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 147

H AW K E ’ S B AYEsk Valley Hawke’s Bay PINOT GRIS Sileni The Priestess Babich Family EstatesVerdelho 2010 HHHH Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris Individual Vineyard FernhillPale, summery wine with lifted 9 TASTED 2010 HHH Viognier 2010 HHH1/2aromas of lemons and apples and 6 AWARDED Fresh and lively, dry style, 50% Full-bodied wine with fresh,a vague hint of nuts. Mouthfilling barrel-fermented, with gentle, vibrant peach and apricotand fresh, with strong, youthful Solid class, featuring plenty of leesy, nutty notes adding a touch flavours, balanced acidity, aquince and lychee flavours and a enjoyable, easy-drinking wines, of complexity. Lacks real flavour slightly creamy texture, andslightly sweet, mouth-wateringly but most lacked the weight, concentration, but very finely very good focus and depth. $25crisp finish. $24 (UK) ripeness and richness of top- balanced and enjoyable. $25Mission Hawke’s Bay class pinot gris. ROSÉGewurztraminer VIOGNIER2011 HHHH Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay 1 TASTEDMusky, spicy, Turkish delight Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH 4 TASTED 1 AWARDEDaromas. Mouthfilling, with good Fleshy and ripely scented, with 4 AWARDEDweight, ripeness and richness. slightly sweet, peachy, spicy, Trinity Hill Hawke’s BayTwo judges found it slightly slightly gingery flavours and a Small but highly impressive Rosé 2011 HHHphenolic, but this is an opulent well-rounded, long finish. Enjoyed class in which all the wines Made mostly from cabernetstyle with a lingering, dryish by all panellists. $24 (UK) showed viognier’s distinctive, franc, this bright pink wine isfinish. $18 (UK) apricot-like varietal characters, vibrantly fruity, berryish andSileni The Don Hawke’s C.J. Pask Gimblett Road coupled with excellent smooth, with enough acidity toBay Riesling 2009 HHH1/2 Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris freshness and depth. keep things lively. $19Light yellow, rich wine with 2010 HHH1/2dryish, toasty, minerally, Full-bodied, with ripe, dryish, Villa Maria Cellar PINOT NOIRhoneyed flavours. Slightly stone-fruit and pear flavours. Selection Hawke’s Baybroad, but shows very good Finely textured, slightly nutty and Viognier 2010 HHHHH 6 TASTEDcomplexity and depth. $25 leesy, with very good depth. $19 Powerful, rich and complex 2 AWARDEDVilla Maria Cellar wine with finely integrated oakSelection Hawke’s Bay Kate Radburnd Sun Kissed and beautifully concentrated Not a strong flight, but the twoArneis 2010 HHH1/2 Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris peach and spice flavours, tight, awarded wines show whatFleshy, dry wine with citrusy, 2010 HHH dry and long. Floral, with hints can be achieved from Hawke’speachy aromas and flavours Fresh, citrusy, gently spicy wine of nutmeg, apricot and ginger. Bay’s cooler, elevated sites.and a slightly creamy texture. with a dryish, slightly minerally Top buy at $24.Very drinkable. $32 finish. Described by one judge Sileni The PlateauAskerne Hawke’s Bay as a “light, clean, greener, grigio Villa Maria Single Hawke’s Bay Pinot NoirGewurztraminer style” (from C.J. Pask). $17 Vineyard Omahu Gravels 2009 HHH1/22010 HHH Viognier 2010 HHHHH Rich, savoury bouquet. Fresh,Fresh, lemony, gently spicy Lime Rock Central Hawke’s Powerful, rich, obviously wood- strong plum/spice flavours, withstyle with a dryish finish. Partly Bay Pinot Gris 2010 HHH influenced style, fermented bright fruit, some nutty, savourybarrel-fermented, with a slightly Peachy, spicy, partly barrel- and matured for 10 months in complexity and fine tannins. $32creamy texture and appealing fermented wine with a French oak barriques. Deep,rose petal aromas. $20 (UK) slightly oily texture and good layered stone-fruit and nut Trinity Hill Hawke’s BayAskerne Hawke’s Bay weight, varietal character and flavours, showing excellent Pinot Noir 2010 HHHSemillon 2010 HHH depth. $24 (A) complexity. $32 Ruby-hued, vibrantly fruitySlightly oaky, creamy bouquet. wine with ripe cherry andFull-bodied and dry, with a Sileni Parkhill Hawke’s C.J. Pask Gimblett Road plum flavours, some savourynoticeable oak influence at Bay Pinot Gris 2010 HHH Viognier 2010 HHHH1/2 complexity and good tanninthis stage, but also good fruit Attractively scented, with a Mouthfilling wine, made in an support. $22ripeness and depth. Worth slightly oily texture and ripe unoaked style to celebrate its richcellaring. $20 stone-fruit flavours. Slightly peach, apricot and spice aromas sweet style with good weight, and flavours. Very fresh and finely balance and depth. $25 balanced, with a persistent finish. Top value at $19.JUDGES Nick Picone Phil Bothwell Senior Auckland National Wine Michael Cooper winemaker for Villa Ambassador and Winestate’s New Zealand Maria since 2008, Nick Fine Wine and Spirit editor is the author of the grew up in Hawke’s Bay, Development Manager internationally acclaimed Wine where he worked his for Pernod Ricard NZ, Atlas of New Zealand and first vintage at Esk Valley Phil is also a senior the annual Michael Cooper’s in 1997 and studied for judge in New Zealand Buyer’s Guide to New Zealand his Bachelor of Wine wine competitions. Wines. In the 2004 New Science degree. Year Honours, Michael was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit for services to wine writing.148 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

regional tastingMERLOT & BLENDS Two Gates STONYRIDGE Omahu 2007 HHHH1/2 LAROSE39 TASTED Gimblett Gravels blend of merlot29 AWARDED (62%), cabernet franc (30%) ONE OF THE FINEST and cabernet sauvignon (8%), CABERNETS INThe 2009 vintage in Hawke’s certified organic. Elegant, tightly THE WORLDBay has a strong reputation for structured and classy, with deep,reds and the wines attracted bright colour and concentrated, 1st equal out of 387 wines in Winestate’snumerous high awards, although ripe blackcurrant, spice and nut comprehensive Cabernet tastingthe panel also found a sprinkling flavours, showing good, savouryof unripe, high-acid, distinctly complexity. $55 (A) Stonyridge Larose 2006herbal wines. The early release, Villa Maria Reservemid-priced 2010 merlots also Hawke’s Bay Merlot Chateau Latour 2006looked full of promise. 2009 HHHH1/2 Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2006 Highly concentrated, deeply Chateau Lafite Rothschild 2007Sacred Hill Halo coloured red with an array ofHawke’s Bay Merlot plum, spice, coffee, licorice Stonyridge is releasing 20 new membershipsCabernet 2009 HHHHH and nut flavours, complex and for the exclusive Larose VIP Club and theDense, rich red, still purple- youthful. Good tannin backbone opportunity to purchase Larose ‘en Primeur’flushed, with a strong surge and a long finish. $50 (A, UK) Applications can be obtained by contactingof fresh, ripe plum, spice and Coopers Creek Hawke’s - Ousffeart [email protected] -nut flavours and a lovely, silky Bay Merlot 2009 HHHH The wine presented by the NZ Prime Minister,texture. Floral, tight-knit, finely Full-coloured red, grown John Key to the King of Spainstructured wine (90% merlot, 7% mostly in The Triangle. Strong The world famous Stonyridge Veranda Cafecabernet sauvignon, 3% cabernet blackcurrant and plum flavours, is open 7 days for lunch and tastings.franc). Priced sharply at $24. with an earthy streak, touches Come join us during the Rugby World Cup! of chocolate and dried herbs, and fine, silky tannins. $17 (UK) Stonyridge Vineyard, 80 Onetangi Road, Waiheke Island, New Zealand P +64 9 372 88 22 　F +64 9 372 87 66 Crossroads Hawke’s Bay Talisman 2009 HHHH [email protected] www.stonyridge.com Very dark, blended red with dense, ripe plum, spice and nut flavours. Weighty and rich blend of up to seven grape varieties, kept secret. $45 Dolbel Estate Hawke’s Bay Merlot Cabernet 2007 HHHH Deeply coloured and richly flavoured, with plum, spice, coffee and herb characters, still fresh and vibrant. Tightly structured, savoury red with a long finish. “Real wine!” enthused one judge. $29.95Trinity Hill Esk ValleyThe Gimblett 2009 HHHHH Hawke’s Bay MerlotDensely flavoured, Gimblett Cabernet SauvignonGravels blend of merlot (38%), Malbec 2009 HHHHcabernet sauvignon (37%), Full-coloured, ageworthy redcabernet franc (15%) and petit with a significant malbecverdot (8%). Fragrant and presence (21%). Strong, ripeboldly coloured, with deep, flavours of plums and spices,very ripe blackcurrant, plum, with well-integrated, cedaryslight herb and spice flavours, oak and good structure andtight-knit tannins and a long density. $24 (UK, US)finish. $34 (A, UK) Matakana EstateCypress Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay MerlotMerlot 2009 HHHH1/2 Cabernet Franc 2009 HHHHFragrant, deeply coloured red, Fleshy, with blackcurrant, plumhand-picked and matured in and slight herb aromas andseasoned French oak barrels. flavours, nutty and savoury.Generous blackcurrant, plum Complex, with sensitive useand spice flavours, with gentle of oak and hints of tobaccotannins and hints of licorice and and leather giving a distinctlycoffee. Ripe, concentrated and Bordeaux style. $32 (UK)complex. Fine value at $21. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 149

H AW K E ’ S B AYSacred Hill C.J. Pask Declaration Villa Maria Cellar Selection Villa Maria Private BinBrokenstone Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2006 HHH1/2 Hawke’s Bay Organic Organic Hawke’s BayMerlot 2009 HHHH This five-year-old wine split the Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 Merlot 2010 HHHDensely coloured, fruit- panel. One judge enjoyed the Full-flavoured red, estate-grown Certified organic, this deeplycrammed red, with full-on “nice, developed characters in the Joseph Soler Vineyard coloured red was estate-grownblackcurrant, berry and spice coming through of leather and and partly barrel-aged. Fruity, in the Joseph Soler vineyard,flavours, ripe and rich, and a spice”; another found it “green”; plummy and spicy, with very on the edge of the Gimblettstrong seasoning of French the third described it as having good depth. $24 Gravels. Vibrantly fruity, it isoak. Still very youthful; open “sweet fruit” and “aging softly”, Villa Maria cherryish and plummy, with2013+. $60 (UK, US) but “pulling up short”. $49 Private Bin Hawke’s Bay some savoury complexity andThornbury Hawke’s Bay Mission Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2010 HHH1/2 good depth. $22Merlot 2010 HHHH Merlot 2010 HHH1/2 Fresh, fruit-driven style Sileni The Triangle Hawke’sDeep, purple-flushed Full-coloured, with blackcurrant, with strong plum and spice Bay Merlot 2009 HHHcolour. Floral, with rich, ripe plum and herb flavours, showing flavours and finely balanced Generous, full-bodied red withblackcurrant, plum and spice some nutty, cedary, savoury tannins. Fragrant, medium- blackcurrant, plum and slightflavours, seasoned with toasty complexity. Softly textured, bodied red with a subtle oak herb flavours seasoned withoak, and fine-grained tannins. medium-bodied style, with drink- influence and very satisfying toasty oak. Smooth, ripe tanninsClassy wine, worth cellaring. $21 young appeal. $18 (A, UK) depth. $22 (A, UK, US) give good drinkability. $32Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Unison Classic Blend Babich Winemakers’ OTHER REDSMerlot 2010 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Reserve Hawke’s BayDelicious drink-young style, Strongly flavoured, complex Merlot 2010 HHH 5 TASTEDdark, lush and crammed with blend of merlot, cabernet Grown in the Gimblett Gravels, 5 AWARDEDblackcurrant, plum and spice sauvignon and syrah, grown in this is a full-coloured wine withflavours. Exuberantly fruity and the Gimblett Gravels and barrel- good depth of plummy, spicy Small class that showedsupple, with good concentration aged for 20 months. Youthful flavour, finely integrated oak and Hawke’s Bay’s versatility andand fine-grained tannins. Enjoyed colour, with berry, spice and some nutty, savoury complexity. ability to produce convincingby all judges. $22 nut flavours, still fresh, but Worth cellaring. $24.95 (UK) reds from malbec and cabernetVidal Hawke’s Bay two judges thought the finish C.J. Pask Declaration franc (no surprises there),Merlot Cabernet lacked a bit of softness and Merlot 2007 HHH tempranillo and even - inSauvignon 2009 HHHH roundness. $35 (A) Full, slightly developed colour. favourable seasons - grenache.Strong, vibrantly fruity red, 60 Unison Reserve Hawke’s Savoury, with firm, moderatelyper cent barrel-aged. Full- Bay Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 ripe spice, leather, herb and Villa Maria Reservecoloured, with blackcurrant, Spicy, nutty style, full-coloured, nut flavours, showing some Hawke’s Bay Malbecspice and olive flavours, showing with a hint of herbs adding complexity, but the finish is a 2009 HHHHHgood concentration, and a complexity and very good flavour little angular and drying. $49 Densely coloured, almost black,perfumed bouquet. $21 (UK) depth. “Very Bordeaux in style,” Kim Crawford Regional Gimblett Gravels red, with theVilla Maria Cellar noted one judge, “[but] just Reserve Hawke’s Bay slightly medicinal aromas typicalSelection Hawke’s slightly lean and angular.” $30 (A) Merlot 2010 HHH of malbec entwined with spicy,Bay Merlot Cabernet Vidal Reserve Series Generous, drink-young style with new French oak. The palateSauvignon 2009 HHHH Hawke’s Bay Merlot plenty of berryish, slightly herbal shows real richness of cassis,Bold style, very youthful, Cabernet Sauvignon and spicy flavour, subtle oak and plum, licorice and pepperwith deep, bright colour and 2008 HHH1/2 a smooth finish. $22 (A, UK, US) flavours. Creamy, multi-layeredconcentrated blackcurrant, plum, Deep and still bright in colour. Sacred Hill Hawke’s Bay wine, with well-tamed tanninsspice and mint flavours. Finely Full-bodied and fruity, with Merlot Cabernet 2010 HHH and a sustained finish. $59.99balanced, with coffee and licorice strong, ripe plum and herb Fresh, vibrantly fruity red,notes and a firm foundation of flavours, finely integrated oak full-coloured, with berryish, Trinity Hilltannin. $24 (UK, US) and supple tannins. $23 plummy flavours showing good Gimblett Gravels depth. Perfumed, middleweight Tempranillo 2009 HHHH STAR RATINGS  style with fine, supple tannins Deeply coloured, with a fragrant, (96% merlot, 4% cabernet leathery bouquet. MediumThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of sauvignon). $21 (UK) to full-bodied, with loads ofexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Sileni Cellar plummy, spicy flavour, still veryAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Selection Hawke’s Bay fresh and vibrant, and a goodprofessionals and are compared in peer Merlot 2010 HHH foundation of tannin. $34 (A, UK)classes by three judges. Youthful, full-coloured red withCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, plummy, spicy, gently oaked Villa Maria Reservea major mail-order business. flavours, showing good depth. Hawke’s Bay GrenacheCD Cellar door price. Floral, vibrantly fruity and well- 2007 HHHHCDO Cellar door only. rounded. $20 Fleshy, juicy, very easySO Sold out. drinking blend of grenache$N/A Price not available at time of printing. (86%), syrah and malbec. Generous cherry, red berry Contact information pg 160. and subtle spice flavours, with balanced acidity and a rounded RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). finish. Ready. $59.99150 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011