Winestate Magazine September October 2011

regional tastingSileni The Pacemaker Babich The Patriarch Steve Bird is known for his non-conformistHawke’s Bay Cabernet 2009 HHHH approach to winemaking and consistently pushes theFranc 2009 HHH1/2 Powerful, concentrated Gimblett boundaries while paying homage to the past. Steve isGently perfumed, single-vineyard Gravels blend of cabernet unashamedly obsessive about his craft. His passion hasred from The Triangle with full, sauvignon (51%), cabernet franc reaped a raft of top awards, and produced a selection ofbright colour and very good (24%) and malbec (25%). Deep,depth of brambly, plummy, inky colour, with ripe blackcurrant, New Zealand’s finest new world wines.spicy flavour, soft and savoury. plum and dark chocolate flavours, The Bird label is a selection of ultra premium single-Verging on four stars. $32 fresh, firm and lingering. Savoury vineyard wines from Marlborough. Manu, which is the and nutty, with good potential. Maori word for “bird” is another handcrafted wine byAskerne Hawke’s Bay $59.95 (A, UK) Steve where he personally selects the very best grapesCabernet Franc 2009 HHH available to achieve distinctive and memorable wines.Fleshy, fairly rich style with C.J. Pask Declarationbrambly, herbal flavours to the Cabernet Merlot Malbec Available in Victoria throughfore, and hints of chocolate 2007 HHHH Horizon Wines & Spirits ph: +61 41856 3567 or inand nuts. $20 Big, structured wine, fleshy NSW through Waratah Wines ph: +61 24739 8915 and firm. Concentrated www.birdwines.com ph: +64 7 927 2377 e: [email protected] blackcurrant, spice and herbSAUVIGNON flavours, with good complexity& BLENDS and slightly grippy tannins. “Needs a decant,” suggested9 TASTED one judge. $498 AWARDED Mission ReserveAs usual, the small cabernet Hawke’s Bay Cabernetsauvignon class was one of the Merlot 2009 HHHHhighlights of the tasting. The Deeply coloured, with plum,2009 vintage reds are notably herb and spice flavoursdark, supple, fragrant and rich. showing excellent complexity and density. Savoury, with firmSacred Hill but fine tannins. $25Helmsman CabernetMerlot 2009 HHHHH Villa Maria ReserveDistinguished, single-vineyard Hawke’s Bay CabernetGimblett Gravels red, based Sauvignon Merloton cabernet sauvignon (47%), 2009 HHHHblended with cabernet franc Finely fragrant, 3:1 blend fromand merlot. Powerful, dense the Gimblett Gravels, withwine with excellent colour deep, bright colour. Youthful,and a complex bouquet of vibrant, brambly, plummycassis, coffee and nuts. flavours, showing good densityNotably concentrated, finely and lovely texture. Enjoyed bytextured palate with a lasting all judges. $49.99 (UK, US)finish. $62 (UK, US) Abbey CellarsTrinity Hill The Trinity Prophet 2009 HHH2009 HHHH1/2 Deeply coloured, cabernetSophisticated, top-value blend sauvignon-based red (54%),of cabernet sauvignon (57%), blended with cabernet franc,merlot (28%) and cabernet franc malbec and merlot. Herbal,(15%). Deeply coloured and brambly, slightly nutty flavours,perfumed, with concentrated slightly rustic but showingblackcurrant, herb and plum good concentration. $22flavours. Fleshy and supple,with great drinkability. $22 SYRAH 22 TASTED 18 AWARDEDBabich Irongate Cabernet Strong class, reflecting theMerlot Franc 2009 HHHH favourable ripening conditionsElegant Gimblett Gravels red, for syrah in 2009 and 2010.cabernet sauvignon-based The top-tier reds from 2009(67%). Deeply coloured, with grabbed the highest accolades,a perfumed, minty, nutty but the impressive quality ofbouquet. Concentrated palate, the early release wines fromlithe and supple, with excellent 2010 also bodes well.richness, complexity anddrinkability. $34.95 (UK) September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 151

H AW K E ’ S B AYSacred Hill Deer Mission Jewelstone Syrah Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay Cypress Terraces SyrahStalkers Hawke’s Bay 2009 HHHH1/2 Syrah 2009 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2Syrah 2009 HHHHH Classy, single-vineyard red, Perfumed bouquet, with bacon Rich and savoury, withPowerful, silky red that romped grown in the Gimblett Gravels. and spice notes, leading into mouthfilling body and strongstraight to a five-star rating from Bold, almost black colour. a rich, finely balanced palate. blackcurrant, herb and blackall judges. Dense, inky colour, Fragrant and smooth-flowing, Deeply coloured, with red berry pepper flavours, seasonedwith notably rich, brambly, with dense blackcurrant, plum, and spice flavours, fresh and with nutty oak. Verging onplummy, peppery flavours, a spice and nut flavours and strong, fine-grained tannins and four stars. $42lovely, silky texture and a lasting fine-grained tannins. One judge a long finish. $24 (UK) Coopers Creek SV Chalkfinish. “Fantastic!” enthused thought it slightly over-ripe; Mission Hawke’s Bay Ridge Hawke’s Bay Syrahone panellist. $49 (UK, US) another rated it five stars. $35 (A) Syrah 2010 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2Villa Maria Cellar C.J. Pask Declaration Supple, intensely varietal Full-flavoured, plummy, peppery,Selection Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2009 HHHH red with deep colour and an spicy red, seasoned with biscuitySyrah 2009 HHHHH Fragrant, complex bouquet attractively floral, peppery oak. Finely textured, with goodHighly perfumed blend of with savoury oak aromas. bouquet. Mouthfilling and finely length. $28 (UK)Gimblett Gravels (65%) and Deeply coloured, with excellent textured, with rich plum and Grower’s Mark Hawke’sDartmoor Valley (35%) grapes, density of plum, blackcurrant spice flavours and silky tannins. Bay Syrah 2010 HHHhand-harvested and barrique- and spice flavours, ripe and Great value at $18. (A, UK, US) Good depth of juicy,aged for 18 months. Dark, nutty, relatively high acidity Mission Reserve Hawke’s blackcurrant and plum flavours,fresh and richly varietal, with (according to two judges) and a Bay Syrah 2009 HHHH fresh and smooth. Deeplysubstantial body, concentrated long finish. $49 Fragrant, peppery bouquet, coloured, with lively acidity, butplum/spice flavours, leathery, C.J. Pask Gimblett Road leading into a dark, youthful some rustic elements on thesavoury notes adding complexity, Syrah 2009 HHHH red with blackcurrant, plum nose. $24.95and silky tannins. $32 Fragrant, expressive bouquet. and black pepper flavours, Matakana Estate Hawke’s Mouthfilling, juicy palate fresh and strong. Dense, tightly Bay Syrah 2009 HHH with vibrant red fruit and structured wine with obvious Restrained bouquet, with some cracked pepper flavours, well- potential, rated well by all toasty oak showing. Plummy integrated oak and a finely judges. $25 (A, UK) and peppery, with a firmly structured, lingering finish. Trinity Hill Homage Syrah structured, distinctly spicy finish. Good value at $19. 2009 HHHH Some ageing potential. $35 (UK) Youthful, densely coloured Sileni Cellar Selection red with concentrated cassis Hawke’s Bay Syrah and spice flavours. High-toned 2009 HHH aromatics (2% viognier), with Solid wine with full, slightly licorice and black pepper developed colour. Medium- notes and finely structured bodied, with moderately ripe tannins. Needs time; open berry, herb and spice flavours, 2013+. $120 (A, UK) showing some savoury Two Gates Hawke’s Bay complexity. Ready. $20 Syrah 2007 HHHH Villa Maria Certified organic. Very deeply Private Bin Hawke’s Bay coloured red with a fragrant, Syrah 2009 HHH smoky, complex bouquet and Peppery, slightly earthy bouquet, excellent concentration of leading a full-coloured, plummy, ripe blackberry, spice and nut slightly herbal red. Firm and flavours. Ready; no rush. $55 (A) moderately ripe-tasting, with Vidal Reserve Series some richness. $26 (A) Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2009 HHHH SWEET WHITES Bold, very youthful red, French oak-matured for 20 months. 3 TASTED Dark, purple-flushed colour, 1 AWARDED with strong, well-ripened flavours of blackcurrants, plums Sileni Exceptional Vintage and spices, silky tannins and an Pourriture Noble 2009 inviting perfume. $23 (375ml) HHHH Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Light gold, with a honeyed Syrah 2010 HHH1/2 bouquet. Mouthfilling, Finely textured, drink-young chardonnay-based dessert wine style with pure varietal with a deep, oily palate. Sweet characters (5% viognier). peach and apricot flavours, Deeply coloured, with very with balanced acidity and a good depth of plum and black botrytis-derived, marmalade- pepper flavours, supported by like richness. $30 fine tannins. $22 © Tourism New Zealand.152 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

MICHAEL COOPERA very strong tasting, with top-flight examples of pinot Church Road Reserve Staete Landt Marlboroughnoir from Marlborough, Waipara and Central Otago; Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Riesling Auslese 2009Bordeaux-style red from Hawke’s Bay; sauvignon blanc Blanc 2010 Lovely, light wine, beautifully(not only from Marlborough); chardonnay (from both Classy, complex wine, barrel- scented and harmonious,islands); riesling; and sparkling. fermented and lees-aged, in fermented and matured in the mould of white Bordeaux. old oak puncheons. SweetPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Powerful and very full-bodied, but not super-sweet, withWines available in export markets are shown as with concentrated, ripe, tropical strong, lemony flavours,(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). fruit flavours, integrated oak showing excellent delicacy and and a long, finely textured, purity, hints of apricots and Muddy Water Slowhand slightly creamy finish. Deeply spices, and some bottle-aged Waipara Pinot Noir 2009 satisfying. $39.99 complexity. $32 (A, UK)Bannock Brae Estate Barrel A stunner. Lush and lovely, rich, Church Road ReserveSelection Pinot Noir 2009 fruit-packed and complex, with Hawke’s Bay Merlot ½Deeply coloured Bannockburn, dense plum/spice flavours and Cabernet 2008Central Otago red showing even a hint of chocolate. Finely Fleshy, rich blend, merlot- Bald Hills 3 Acresreal power through the palate. textured, with good tannin dominated, with a splash of Bannockburn CentralBeautifully rich cherry, plum backbone, it’s a very ‘complete’ cabernet sauvignon and petit Otago Pinot Noir 2009and spice flavours, with oak wine, likely to reward long verdot. Powerful but not heavy, Delicious, drink-young style,complexity and good tannin cellaring. $75 (A, UK, US) with a fragrant, spicy bouquet but also ageworthy. Thebackbone. Unfined and Saint Clair Pioneer Block and very dense, youthful palate, bouquet is savoury, with goodunfiltered. Best 2013+. $60 (UK) 4 Sawcut Marlborough packed with blackcurrant, plum, complexity; the palate veryGreystone Waipara Chardonnay 2010 spice and nut flavours. Delicious silky and harmonious, with ripeRiesling 2010 Notably refined wine from the now, but still unfolding. $36.95 cherry, spice and nut flavours,Showing lovely freshness and Ure Valley, halfway between threaded with fresh acidity.immediacy, this is a medium- Blenheim and Kaikoura. Rich, Clos Marguerite Good value at $32. (A)bodied style with a gentle splash citrusy, mealy flavours, with Marlborough Sauvignon Bald Hills Singleof sweetness and deliciously a slightly creamy texture and Blanc 2010 Vineyard Central Otagorich, pure, citrusy, limey flavours, lovely complexity, delicacy and Outstanding single-vineyard Pinot Noir 2009crisp and long. $26 harmony. Good potential, but Awatere Valley wine, much riper Concentrated, tightly structured already delicious. $30.50 and less herbaceous than most Bannockburn red, showing long- from the district. Weighty and term cellaring potential. Fresh,Huia Blanc de Blancs 2005 Muddy Water Hare’s Breath highly concentrated, with peach, deep cherry, plum, spice andHighly refined, still youthful Waipara Pinot Noir 2009 pineapple and lime flavours, nut flavours, savoury, complexMarlborough sparkling, all Crying out for cellaring, this sweet-fruited and minerally, and a and underpinned by firmchardonnay-based. Fragrant, deeply coloured, powerful, fruit- crisp, bone-dry, lasting finish. $26 tannins. Best 2013+. $48 (A)citrusy, yeasty bouquet, fresh crammed red has deep plum Bannock Brae Estateand complex. Very vivacious and spice flavours. Very savoury Goldfields Pinot Noir 2009palate, crisp, elegant and and complex, it’s built to last; ‘Feminine’ style of Centralcitrusy, with lovely intensity and open 2013+. $60 (A, UK, US) Otago red, already delicious,delicacy and a lingering, dryish, Saint Clair with sweet-fruit delights andyeasty, nutty finish. $34 (A, UK) Pioneer Block 22 ripe, supple tannins. Ruby-hued,Crossroads Vineyard Barn Block Marlborough with very fresh cherry and spiceSelection Kereru Road Pinot Noir 2010 flavours, finely integrated oakHawke’s Bay Grown on the southern edge and good, savoury complexity.Chardonnay 2010 of the Wairau Valley, this is Drink now or cellar. $32 (UK)Robust wine with arresting pinot noir on steroids - but it Black Estate Omihipower. Very full-bodied, with retains varietal character and Waipara Pinot Noir 2009deep, vibrant peach, pear freshness. Notably dark, it is Enticingly floral and supple,and spice flavours, a hint of a strapping wine (14.5% alc), intensely varietal wine frombutterscotch, and a rich, creamy fruit-packed, with dense, lush 15-year-old vines. Ruby-hued,finish. Notably concentrated, cherry, plum and spice flavours. with rich, ripe cherry, plumcomplex and harmonious. Lovely Real ‘wow!’ factor. $33.50 and herb flavours, a gentlewine, already approachable. $45 seasoning of oak, silky texture, and impressive complexity and harmony. $42 (A, UK) September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 153

MICHAEL COOPERBlack Estate Omihi Lowburn Ferry Saint Clair Catalina SoundsWaipara Riesling 2010 Skeleton Creek Central Pioneer Block 16 MarlboroughFull-bodied style, impressively Otago Pinot Noir 2009 Awatere Marlborough Pinot Gris 2010rich, with fresh, peachy, spicy, Grown in the Cromwell Basin Pinot Noir 2010 Refined Waihopai Valley wine,slightly honeyed flavours. and harvested at 25 brix, this From a north-facing hill site hand-picked, with some barrelYouthful, concentrated wine deeply coloured red is rich and overlooking the Awatere Valley, fermentation. Scented andwith a powerful presence, good sweet-fruited, warm and savoury, this very youthful wine is citrusy bouquet. The palateacid spine and a tight, off-dry with strong cherry, plum and powerful and poised. Deeply offers pure, vibrant lemon,finish. $23.95 (A, UK) spice flavours, showing good coloured, vibrantly fruity, rich pear and lychee flavours, withChurch Road Hawke’s Bay complexity, and the structure to and flowing, with deep cherry, leesy notes adding complexity.Merlot Cabernet 2009 mature well. Open 2013+. $35 plum and spice flavours, fresh Slightly oily, with a dry finish.Densely coloured blend with Nautilus Marlborough acidity and a long finish. $33.50 Well worth cellaring. $24 (A)a touch of malbec and syrah. Pinot Noir 2009 Staete Landt Marlborough Church Road Hawke’s BayConcentrated, well-ripened Grown mostly at clay sites on the Viognier 2010 Chardonnay 2010blackcurrant, plum and spice south side of the Wairau Valley, One of the region’s finest Already drinking well, this barrel-flavours, with hints of coffee this is a very elegant, supple, viogniers yet. Barrel-fermented, fermented wine is pale yellow,and dark chocolate, finely finely textured red. Sweet-fruited with ripe, stone-fruit flavours with a complex bouquet of ripeintegrated oak and supple and intensely varietal, it has and subtle oak/lees characters stone-fruit and toasty oak. Full-tannins. Top vintage, likely to be strong cherry, plum and spice adding complexity, it is bodied, it has strong, ripe peachlong-lived. Fine value. $26.95 flavours, nutty and savoury. Drink mouthfilling, very fresh, vibrant and nectarine flavours, slightlyGreystone Sea Star Waipara 2012+. $40.50 (UK, US) and refined, with obvious nutty, rich and rounded. $26.95Valley Riesling 2010 Saint Clair Pioneer Block potential. $48 (A, UK) Church Road Hawke’s BayMouthfilling, fully dry but 10 Twin Hills Marlborough Wild Earth Central Otago Pinot Gris 2010not austere style, already Chardonnay 2010 Pinot Noir 2009 Estate-grown in the relativelydrinking well. Ripely scented, Powerful Omaka Valley wine, Still very youthful, but full cool, elevated, inland Matapirowith strong, citrusy, peachy very full-bodied, with fresh, of promise. Full-coloured, district, this full-bodied, peachy,flavours, very fresh and vibrant, rich, peachy, toasty flavours mouthfilling and rich, with spicy wine has a slightly oilyspicy, minerally notes adding and a hint of butterscotch. cherry, plum, herb and spice texture, good complexity andcomplexity, and excellent depth Bold, generous wine, slightly flavours woven with fresh richness, and a rounded finish.and harmony. $26 wood-dominated at this stage, acidity and excellent density. Already enjoyable. $26.95Huia Marlborough Dry but with the fruit concentration Open 2013+. $42 (A, UK) Deep Cove Central OtagoRiesling 2010 to match. $30.50 (UK) Pinot Noir 2009Richly scented, full-bodied style Saint Clair Pioneer  From Wild Earth, this deeplywith very strong lemon/lime Block 12 Lone coloured red was blended fromflavours. Intensely varietal, with Gum Marlborough Babich Irongate grapes grown at Lowburn andfresh, vibrant fruit characters, Gewurztraminer 2010 Chardonnay 2009 Gibbston. The bouquet is fresh-minerally notes and a long, dry Exotically perfumed Alsace Solid but not memorable scented and youthful; the palatefinish. Best mid-2012+. $28 style, soft and generous. vintage of this Hawke’s Bay concentrated, with buoyant plumJules Taylor Marlborough Already delicious, with a splash classic. Pale gold, mouthfilling, and spice flavours, showing veryPinot Gris 2010 of sweetness, gentle acidity, fresh and youthful, it is sweet- good ripeness and depth. BestFrom two sites in the Awatere an oily texture and luscious, fruited, with good acid spine, 2012-13. $32 (A, US)Valley and partly barrel- concentrated lychee, ginger finely integrated oak and good Nautilus Marlboroughfermented, this fleshy, rich and spice flavours. $23.50 intensity of peachy, spicy, Sauvignon Blanc 2010wine is in the classic Alsace Saint Clair toasty, faintly honeyed flavours. Opening up well, a zingystyle. Mouthfilling, peachy, Pioneer Block 12 Drink mid 2012-13. $34.95 (A) wine with freshly herbaceousslightly spicy and honeyed, with Lone Gum Marlborough Bannock Brae Estate aromas and strong melon, limea gentle splash of sweetness, Pinot Noir 2010 Cathy’s Rosé 2010 and green capsicum flavours.and excellent concentration and Grown in the Omaka Valley, This Central Otago rosé is a Good food wine - crisp and dry.harmony. $20 (A, UK, US) this could be a Central Otago “purpose-built, stand-alone $24.95 (A, UK, US)Muddy Water Waipara red, it’s so vibrantly fruity wine, not a saignee”. From Isabel MarlboroughChardonnay 2009 and floral. Fleshy and richly pinot noir grapes, estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc 2010This classy, minerally wine has coloured, very full-bodied at Bannockburn, it is bright pink Grown at three sites, on therich grapefruit and nut flavours, and sweet-fruited, with finely and mouthfilling, with lively valley floor and elevated, thiswoven with fresh acidity. integrated oak and good strawberry and spice flavours, full-bodied wine has ripe,Youthful and vibrantly fruity, density of cherry, plum and a touch of complexity and tropical fruit flavours, fresh,with barrel-ferment complexity, spice flavours. $33.50 (UK) appetising acidity. $24 crisp and strong. Dry andit is full-bodied, with good Saint Clair Bannock Brae slightly minerally, it’s drinkingharmony and the prospect of a Pioneer Block 15 Estate Goldfields Dry well now. $22 (A, UK, US)long life ahead. $32 (A, UK, US) Strip Block Marlborough Riesling 2009Nautilus Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010 Designed to “exhibit theChardonnay 2010 From the lower reaches of the characteristics of a bygone age”,This elegant, finely poised wine Waihopai Valley, a powerful, this Central Otago riesling isshould unfold well. Grown in very ripe-tasting red, deeply fermented and matured in oldthe Wairau Valley, it is vibrant, coloured, rich and rounded. oak barriques. It’s the best yet -citrusy, peachy and nutty, with Soft and generous, with plum, fresh and vibrant, with substantialbarrel-ferment complexity and cherry and spice flavours, and body, strong lemon, lime andgood richness through the palate. good complexity, it’s already spice flavours and a long, dry butOpen mid-2012+. $34.50 (A, UK) approachable, but well worth not austere finish. $24 cellaring. $33.50 (UK)154 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

recent releasesJules Taylor Marlborough Muddy Water WaiparaPinot Noir 2010 Pinot Noir 2009Floral, full-of-charm style, Still very youthful, this veryhand-picked in the Awatere and generous wine has rich cherry/Brancott valleys. Ruby-hued plum flavours, showing good,and finely scented, with gentle spicy complexity. Full, brighttannins, a subtle seasoning of oak ruby, with moderate acidity, itand generous, vibrant cherry and should be at its best from mid-plum flavours. $30 (A, UK, US) 2012+. $40 (A, UK, US)Nautilus Marlborough Opawa MarlboroughPinot Gris 2010 Pinot Noir 2010Mostly estate-grown in the ‘Drink-young’ style, full ofAwatere Valley and partly charm. Fermented withbarrel-fermented, this floral, indigenous yeasts and barrel-invitingly scented wine is full- aged, it is floral, full-bodied andbodied and well-rounded, with fruity, with generous cherryripe pear, lychee and spice and plum flavours, deliciouslyflavours, a sliver of sweetness, ripe and smooth (fromand excellent delicacy and Nautilus) $28.95. (A, UK, US)harmony. $29 (A, UK) Saint Clair Omaka Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay 2010 Powerful, highly concentrated Omaka Valley wine with a strong sweet oak influence (all American, half new). Loads of very fresh, citrusy, spicy flavour, nutty and creamy, in an upfront, ‘in your face’ style. $33.50 (UK)Main Divide Canterbury Saint ClairPinot Noir 2009 Pioneer Block 11 CellDelicious now, this is a top Block Marlboroughbuy, with loads of body, Chardonnay 2010colour and flavour. Barrel- Youthful wine, grown east ofmatured for 18 months, it Blenheim. Concentrated stone-is mouthfilling and supple, fruit and toast flavours, with agenerous and fruit-packed, strong oak influence (French,with cherry, plum, herb and new), lively acidity, and goodnut flavours, fresh and strong vigour and drive. Open mid-(from Pegasus Bay). $24.95 2012+. $30.50Muddy Water Waipara Saint ClairPinotage 2009 Pioneer Block 14 Doctor’sAt over 15% alc, this is no Creek Marlboroughshrinking violet, but it retains Pinot Noir 2010lively acidity. Mouthfilling and Grown mostly in thesupple, it has a pinot noir-like company’s Doctor’s Creektexture, with strong, buoyant vineyard, this deeply colouredplum and spice flavours, fresh pinot noir is mouthfilling andand savoury, and plenty of fresh, with strong, plummy,personality. $38 (A, UK, US) spicy flavours. Sweet-fruited,Goldridge Estate with excellent concentrationPremium Reserve and complexity. Open midChardonnay 2010 HHHH 2012+. $33.50 (A, UK)Fragrant, weighty and rich, with Saint Claircitrusy, peachy, biscuity flavours, Pioneer Block 17a creamy texture and well- Bay Block Hawke’s Bayintegrated oak/lees characters Syrah 2010adding complexity. A good-value Dark, mouthfilling and suppleblend of Hawke’s Bay and red, grown in the GimblettGisborne grapes. $19.99 Gravels. Strong blackcurrant and plum flavours, distinctly spicy, with a seasoning of toasty French oak (half new). Rich, peppery wine, worth cellaring. $33.50 (UK) September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 155

MICHAEL COOPERSaint Clair Pioneer Block Wild Earth Central Otago Alana Estate Crowded House9 Big John Marlborough Riesling 2009 Martinborough MarlboroughRiesling 2010 Instantly appealing, single- Pinot Noir 2009 Nelson Central OtagoFresh, strong, ‘spatlese’ style vineyard Bannockburn wine Mouthfilling wine with fullish, Pinot Noir 2010with low alcohol, abundant with fresh, strong, citrusy, limey slightly developed colour and Attractive drink-young style,sweetness and incisive flavours flavours, a distinct splash of some herbal notes on the blended from three South- lemony, appley and slightly sweetness and good acid spine. nose. Very satisfying depth of Island regions. Vibrantlyspicy. Very light and lively, with a Finely balanced wine for drinking cherryish, spicy, slightly leafy fruity, with cherry, plum andhint of sherbet, tangy acidity and now onwards. $25 (A, UK) flavour, showing good, savoury spice flavours to the fore,obvious potential. $23.50 (UK) Wither Hills complexity. $40 (UK) some savoury notes addingSeresin Marlborough Wairau Valley Marlborough Alana Estate complexity, fresh acidity and aSauvignon Blanc 2010 Chardonnay 2009 Rapture Martinborough well-rounded finish. $21 (A)Certified organic, this wine is still Rich, generous wine, full-bodied, Pinot Noir 2010 Maori Point Central Otagovery fresh, tight and youthful. with ripe peach and grapefruit Designed for early drinking, Pinot Gris 2010Partly barrel-fermented, it shows flavours and hints of butterscotch this single-vineyard red is Still very youthful, this single-good complexity, with strong, and toast. Fresh, finely balanced mouthfilling and smooth, with vineyard wine was grown atvibrant melon and lime flavours, dry wine, still unfolding. Good a touch of complexity and Tarras, in the Cromwell Basin,minerally, slightly nutty, crisp and value at $20. (A, UK) generous cherry, plum and tank-fermented and lees-dry. Drink 2012+. $28 (A, UK, US) Wither Hills spice flavours, ripe and rounded. stirred. Mouthfilling and dry, itSoho Carter Waiheke Wairau Valley Marlborough Priced right. $24 (A, UK, US) is fresh, citrusy, slightly appleyIsland Chardonnay 2010 Pinot Noir 2009 Bouldevines Marlborough and spicy, with very goodStill coming together, but full of Ruby-hued red, richly fruity and Chardonnay 2009 vibrancy and length. $23.50promise, this barrel-fermented very smooth-flowing. Sweet- Light yellow wine, fresh and full- Maori Point Central Otagowine is full-bodied, ripe and fruited and finely textured, with bodied, handled in an even split Pinot Noir Rosé 2010rounded. Peachy, sweet- nutty, spicy, fungal notes adding of tanks and barrels. Citrusy, Pink/pale orange, this barrel-fruited and savoury, with good considerable complexity. Drink peachy and slightly limey, with fermented wine works well,concentration, complexity and now-2013. $29.99 (A, UK) some toasty, creamy notes offering strong, ripe strawberry,texture, it should be at its best Yealands Estate Awatere adding complexity. Drink now or plum and spice flavours, freshfrom mid 2012+. $33.99 (A, US) Valley Marlborough Pinot cellar. $24.90 and lively, and good harmony.Soho Marlborough Noir 2010 Bronte by Rimu Grove Drink this year. $19Pinot Noir 2010 Estate-grown, generous, Nelson Pinot Gris 2010 Riverby EstateFull-flavoured, complex wine, savoury, silky red with full, bright Fleshy, off-dry style, mostly Marlboroughalready drinking well. Sturdy and colour and substantial body. handled in tanks; 9% of the Pinot Noir 2010richly coloured, with excellent Already enjoyable but well worth blend was lees-aged in old Fleshy, smooth red with verydepth of cherry, plum and spice cellaring, it has strong, plummy, French oak barrels. Full-bodied, it good depth of ripe cherry,flavours, a hint of herbs and slightly spicy flavours, gentle has strong stone-fruit and spice plum and spice flavours.fine-grained tannins. Unfined tannins and good complexity. flavours, showing considerable Finely balanced for earlyand unfiltered. $33.99 (A, US) $26.95 (A, UK, US) complexity and good richness drinking, it shows considerableStaete Landt Marlborough Yealands Estate Awatere and harmony. $22 (A) complexity and should rewardRiesling Dry 2010 Valley Marlborough Couper’s Shed Waipara cellaring. $28 (A, US)From just six rows in the estate Riesling 2010 Pinot Noir 2010 Riverby Estatevineyard at Rapaura, this is a Refined, youthful, dryish style Full-coloured North Canterbury Marlborough Sauvignon‘serious’ style for cellaring. The with excellent delicacy and red with a spicy bouquet and Blanc 2010bouquet is scented and citrusy, depth. Vibrant and tangy and fresh plum, cherry and spice Ripely scented, full-bodiedwith good intensity; the palate medium-bodied, with strong, flavours, showing very good wine with melon/lime flavourshas strong, lemony, slightly spicy lemony, slightly appley and limey depth. Medium to full-bodied and crisp acidity. Tangy andflavours, firm acid spine and a dry flavours, crisp and lingering. Best style with some savoury sweet-fruited, with goodfinish. Open 2013+. $25.95 (UK) mid-2012+. $24.95 (A, UK) complexity and a fairly firm depth. $19 (A, US)Tohu Rewa Blanc finish. Drink mid 2012+ (from Rossendale Canterburyde Blancs Methode ½ Pernod Ricard NZ). $24.95 Gewurztraminer 2010Traditionnelle 2009 Hunky Dory Marlborough Perfumed, strongly varietalElegant and tight-knit, Anchorage Nelson Pinot Noir 2010 wine in a medium-bodiedchardonnay-based wine from a Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Deeply coloured, bold style with mould with fresh, peachy,single vineyard in Marlborough. This crisp, punchy wine was strong, ripe cherry, plum and citrusy, spicy flavours. SlightlyMouthfilling and very lively, with grown at Motueka. Dry style spice flavours, quite nutty and sweet and gingery, it hasstrong, citrusy, slightly limey with vibrant tropical fruit and savoury. A more complex style balanced acidity and a distinctlyand nutty flavours, showing herbaceous aromas and flavours, than most pinot noirs in this spicy finish. $30good, yeast-derived complexity, showing very good freshness price range (from Huia). $23 (A) Saint Clair Pioneer Blockand a crisp, dry finish. $29.90 and depth. $19 (A, UK) Hunky Dory Marlborough 10 Twin Hills MarlboroughWalnut Block Alana Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Pinot Noir 2010Marlborough Sauvignon Martinborough Sauvignon Good, everyday-drinking style Floral, supple, very youthfulBlanc 2010 Blanc 2010 with punchy, ripe, tropical fruit red from the Omaka Valley.Tightly structured, full-bodied, Very crisp and lively, this is a flavours, crisp and dry. Fresh, Vibrantly fruity, it has cherryish,dry wine with concentrated, ripely herbaceous wine with lively and priced sharply (from plummy flavours, showingripe melon/lime flavours. A clear fresh, strong melon and green Huia). $16 (A) very good depth, a seasoningindigenous yeast influence (29%) capsicum-like flavours. Drink of toasty oak and fresh acidity.adds a touch of complexity and now. $20 (A, UK) Still coming together; openpersonality. $21.95 (A, UK, US) 2013+. $33.50156 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

recent releasesTriplebank Awatere Valley Map Maker Marlborough WINEPinot Gris 2010 Pinot Noir 2009 COURSESFloral, citrusy wine with cool- Easy-drinking style, light ruby,climate freshness and vibrancy. with ripe cherryish flavours, EducateFull-bodied, with a touch of showing some savoury, nutty Yoursweetness and good depth of complexity. Rounded and ready. Palatelemony, slightly spicy flavours, (from Staete Landt). $29 (A, UK)balanced for easy drinking (from Momo Marlborough An outstanding reputation forPernod Ricard NZ). $24.95 Pinot Noir 2009 wine appreciationWaipara Springs Waipara Light style with drink-young Develop your sensoryPinot Gris 2010 appeal and some complexity. skills and build your confidenceFloral, medium-bodied wine, Ruby-hued, with decent Taste everything from Australia’spartly barrel-fermented. depth of cherry, herb and finest world famous wines throughVibantly fruity and finely poised, spice flavours, slightly nutty to rare and exciting new releaseswith very good depth of peach, and savoury. Ready (from Emphasis on fun and learningpear and lychee flavours, a Seresin). $26.95 (A, UK, US) Enrol in the regular programmedsliver of sweetness and a Southern courses or call us with your ideasrefreshingly crisp finish. $19 Lighthouse Nelson for custom classesWalnut Block Collectables Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Classes are held at theMarlborough Sauvignon Herbaceous style with fresh- National Wine CentreBlanc 2010 cut grass and green capsicum Adelaide, South AustraliaGood value. Fresh and clearly aromas leading into a medium- Call us for more information orherbaceous, with strong bodied wine, strongly varietal, book on-linegooseberry and lime flavours, very crisp and lively. $17crisp and direct. Drinking well Torrent Bay Nelson www.winesa.asn.au/wine-coursesnow. $15.95 Pinot Noir 2010Yealands Estate Awatere Floral, charming, drink-young 08 8222 9277Valley Marlborough style from Motueka with gentleViognier 2010 tannins and fresh, buoyant cherryFleshy, fruit-driven style. Full- and plum flavours. $21 (UK)bodied, with vibrant stone-fruit Tussock Nelsonand spice flavours, a creamy Pinot Noir 2009texture and a dry, rounded Enjoyable drink-young style,finish. $24.95 (A, UK) ruby-hued, fresh and fruity, with cherryish, spicy, slightly herbal flavours, showing some savoury complexity (fromAnchorage Nelson Woollaston). $24 (UK)Chardonnay 2010 Waipara Springs WaiparaGood drink-young style. Given Sauvignon Gris 2010a full, softening malolactic Very user-friendly wine,fermentation and French and produced not from theAmerican oak-aged, it is fresh sauvignon gris variety, butand vibrantly fruity, with citrusy, rather a 2:1 blend of sauvignonappley flavours and a creamy- blanc and pinot gris. Fruity, off-smooth texture. $19 (UK) dry style with plenty of ripelyAnchorage Nelson herbaceous, slightly peachyPinot Noir 2010 and spicy flavour. $19Drink-young charmer from Yealands WayMotueka. Ruby-hued, it has Marlborough Centraldecent depth of strawberry, Otago Pinot Noir 2010plum and spice flavours, fresh, Made in an up-front, drink-youngripe and well-rounded. $21 (UK) style, this regional blend isHunky Dory ruby-hued, with fresh plum andThe Tangle 2010 spice flavours woven with livelyEasy-drinking Marlborough acidity, some savoury notes andblend of pinot gris, good depth. $18.95 (A)gewurztraminer and riesling. Yealands Way MarlboroughFull-bodied and smooth, with Riesling 2010decent depth of peachy, citrusy, Lemon-scented, medium-bodiedspicy flavours, hints of ginger wine with pleasing depth ofand honey, and a gently floral slightly sweet, very fresh andbouquet (from Huia). $20 (A) vibrant flavours, balanced for easy drinking. $18.95 (A) September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 157