Winestate Magazine September October 2011

THE GREAT ORGANIC BIODYNAMIC DEBATEA build-up of bird droppings will mutate into well-meaning as water-diviners - unless Stiltonic disc sends us down three things -nitrate,andsupernaturallyintosuperphosphate. you are a stag, a steer or a sheep, and weakly reflected sunlight, very faint gravitySome refining is required, just as organic wine value your bonce and your bladder. They and inspiration for lame song lyrics.is refined to make organic brandy. could be more open about the involuntary involvement of animals in the alchemy. The But apart from that, and apart from the The significance of the spirituality I cannot excuse that “the cow was dead when we got occasional shocker, many biodynamicspeak for and neither can anyone else here” - also known as the ivory smugglers’ winemakers make fine wines and mostwithout a ouija board, but the cultural defence - won’t wash with vegans. would not know how not to. And that factorinfluence is approaching cult status. alone may be more important than all theA bunch of winemakers are now manically Biodynamicists idolise the moon, a moonshine combined.biodynamic, dozens are dabbling and fellow remote rock that knows nothing of liquids,travellers are “in conversion”, which means lunacy, months or Mondays, and does not So I tracked down a pinot noir made by thethey are converting to biodynamism about discriminate between sea and land, water, winemaker quoted at the beginning of thisas quickly as I’m converting to cannibalism. wine or world events. Its strongest physical article and shared it with a friend. By the endSelf-interest also plays its part. A cosmic influence is when we can’t see it, at the new of the bottle - as mystical as this must soundconnection enhances your chances of moon, and only then because it has the - we were definitely thinking more clearly.selling wine to a holistic new market intense clout of the sun’s gravity behind it.segment of caring, sharing, environmentally Some life forms evolved to take advantage of Or we thought we were.conscious, new-age customers. Like British the incidental, comparatively small and strictly * Brian Miller is a fellow traveller of Australianand German supermarket chains. coastal tidal pull, including sardines, soldier Skeptics. He was cast as Devil’s Advocate crabs, sea turtles and real estate agents. But at Taste Australia’s biodynamics debate and Biodynamic vignerons would be difficult grapevines are ocean-ambivalent at best and as the Devil by some attendees. Brian worksto dislike even if you wanted to, and are similarly immune to the moon. That serene with several Australian wineries, biodynamicinvariably charming, disarming and as and scientific, and does not question personal beliefs - only public balderdash. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 51

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WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A ZTwinsI N S EPAR AB LEThe syrah sibling gets its rightful recognition JUDPGAESMSIENNGT PANEL CHAIR LOUISA ROSE EXPLAINS HOW OUR SHIRAZ CHALLENGE WORKSPETER SIMIC Looking at nearly 700 wines in less than a week takes some coordination and alsoIN THIS, OUR SIXTH World’s some dedicated judges. Once again the Winestate team pulled it all together, withGreatest Syrah and Shiraz Challenge, shiraz and syrah wines from around theyou may notice that we have changed the world. When you realise that of Australia’sheadline to include syrah in the title. Syrah total wine grape crush, 323,000 tonnes orwines have always been part of our judging about 20 per cent is shiraz, you realiseand in two of the six years a syrah from how important this variety is to Australia.the Rhone Valley has won the overall title(Guigal Chateau Ampuis Cote Rotie 2004 Shiraz is one of the most versatile grapein 2008 and Domaine Clape Cornas 2006 varieties, growing well and making greatin 2010, equal top). So it doesn’t make a wines over a vast range of climates fromlot of sense not to acknowledge that even the cool to warm, maritime to mountainousthough both varietals are the same they and everything in between. This meansmay have different names. there are many different expressions of shiraz, with different flavours and It does make sense, however, to judge them textures; some full-bodied and sometogether and from a consumer perspective, more medium-bodied - all expressingblind within price categories. (Of course, the differences from the vineyards, thewe have judged Australian shiraz for the 33 regions and the winemakers’ influence.years of this magazine’s existence, but ithas only been in the past few years that we All the five-star wines this year werehave sourced syrah and shiraz from other of world-class quality, and all had theircountries to add to the mix.) individual merits and worth. The top wine showed a wonderful balance of Once all the submissions for samples deep, briary fruit flavours, spice andwere received and cult wines sourced density on the palate, without beingand added, we sorted the wines into price jammy or too big. This wine is greatranges. Wherever there were enough wines now, but could also be cellared forto have a category of ‘straight’ shiraz or syrah 10 years or more with confidence.wines and another of blends at that price, September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 53

we kept them separate within those two of imported wines and scoured the fine Cellars, Melbourne Street Cellars, Winecategories. If the price group was relatively wine stores for any additional examples for Life and the amazing National Winesmall we judged them together. We let the we could find. About 40 extra imports Centre, where we conducted a publicmarketplace decide where those prices fell. were added to the mix. (For a full list of tasting at the end of the week featuring wines tasted, go to the Winestate web site all the wines entered in the competition. To make sure it was a true international at www.winestate.com.au. Our thanks tocompetition, we begged, borowed (but the Sip’n Save organisation, Edinburgh The wines were judged blind overdidn’t steal) wines from every distributor five days, with 15 judges involved - aT H E P A N E L I S T S (left to right): Peter Douglas, Rod Hooper, Simon Rowe, David Fleming, Bill Hardy, Winestate Editor Peter Simic,Louisa Rose, Martin Williams MW, Stuart Bourne, Shane Harris, Derek Fitzgerald, Troy Kalleske, Sam Kurtz, Rebecca Kennedy, Brian Miller, Mario Criado.54 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A Zpanel of three each day. We thank heavyweight wines in the same flight, THE JUDGESthem for their expertise and attention plus stylistic differences of oak handling TOP TENto detail. As you know, our judges take and acid and fruit management.no prisoners and they are the ones who The trick is to have superb examples 1. Seppelt St Peters Grampianshave created our motto: “If you get an from each weight category and style. Shiraz 2008 $70award at Winestate you have earnedit.” The method used was the so-called Fortunately, our judges are adept at 2. Wolf Blass Platinum LabelInternational Judging System, as used sorting out the wheat from the chaff, Barossa Shiraz 2006 $160by wine shows in Australia and New recognising wines for their overallZealand. It involves judges giving points quality. Readers should, of course, 3. Madeleines Nangkita Single Vineyardout of 20, with 15.5 earning a bronze consider the best of the best, but also Southern Fleurieu Shiraz 2007 $48medal (Winestate 3 stars), 17 points look at wines that are within their budget.a silver medal (Winestate 4 stars) and These are wines that are worth searching 4. Wolf Blass Platinum Label18.5 a gold medal (Winestate 5 stars). In for, either at your local liquor store or Barossa Shiraz 2008 $160most categories less than half the wines restaurant, or if all else fails go directlyjudged receive an award - in some, far to the winery and ask them where you 5. Penfolds Grange 2006 $700less than 50 per cent. can find a bottle to taste. 6. Ben Potts Fiddle’s Block What is interesting in the results of Our congratulations to the winners Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2007this tasting is how there are good wines of each category and our top 10to recommend in each price category. placegetters, but also to every wine 7. Bilancia La Collina Hawkes BayAlso, like the boxing classifications, you that received a recommendation in what Shiraz 2009 $100can have lightweight, middleweight and has to be one of the world’s toughest wine competitions. 8. 1847 Pappy’s Paddock Barossa Shiraz 2006 $35 9. Mitchelton Wines Print Nagambie Shiraz 2009 $55 10. Shingleback Unedited McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 $70 September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 55

1STPLACESPECIALFROMTHE START SEPPELT 2008 ST PETER’S GRAMPIANS SHIRAZThis is probably the best i’ve been involved with. This isas good as it gets as far as shiraz in this region goes.JENI PORTFOR YOUNG SEPPELT The 2008 vintage is an interesting one.WINEMAKER, Joanne ‘Jo’ Marsh Sandwiched between the severe drought and bushfire years of 2007 and 2009,it rates as one of the best, if not the best it registered as a warm vintagered wine with which she has ever been throughout much of Victoria. But withassociated. She knew from the minute the the state’s record-breaking droughtshiraz grapes arrived at her Great Western came a successive run of early vintageswinery in 2008 that she was dealing with and, in 2008, winemakers and thesomething special. viticultural staff at Seppelt Great Western managed to get the grapes off early “The ferment was so intense,” she recalls, thanks to Mother Nature, beating by a“and it maintained it right throughout its hair’s breadth the severe heatwave thatlife. We pressed it and it was still amazing: descended in mid-March. It proved tothe colour, the density of flavour, the be one of the earliest-ever vintages fortannin structure, the vibrancy. Yeah, it had shiraz picked at Seppelt Great Western.everything going for it.” The fruit ripened fast but then it was also picked early, capturing what Jo calls “a The quality of the shiraz grapes, off sensational wine”.the historic Seppelt vineyards at GreatWestern, was so good the grapes ended What is even more sensational is the factup under the banner of the Seppelt the original St Peter’s vineyard, planted inflagship, the St Peter’s Grampians Shiraz. 1961, was in transition. Planted at the front“This is probably the best I’ve been of the winery, at the bottom of a slope andinvolved with,” says Jo, who has been on sandy soil, the original vineyard wasworking at Seppelt for eight years. “This prone to frost and vine disease, as well asis as good as it gets as far as shiraz in thisregion goes.”56 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A ZHomestead at Seppelt’s Great Western Winery. Fermentation tanks. Bottles maturing in the drives at Seppelt Great Western. Opposite: Winemaker Joanne Marsh.the odd flooding and rising salinity issues. In 2008, St Peter’s shiraz was treated structure, highlighting the strength of The 2005 vintage was the last year in much like the vintages immediately shiraz as it is grown in the western before. Fifty per cent of the wine was part of Victoria.which St Peter’s shiraz was predominately matured in new French oak barriquessourced off the original 10-hectare St (225-litre barrels). “We go for really tight- The first St Peter’s shiraz to be sealedPeter’s vineyard. There was a small amount grained French oak and our wines stay with a screw cap was the 2003 vintage.of the original vineyard in 2006, while 2007 in barrel for about 20 months so they get The aluminium closure is now a permanentwas the first vintage off the new plantings. plenty of time to integrate,” explains Jo. feature for the consistency it brings to the “We don’t go for the up-front oak. We go wine, says Jo. “I know the wine we make will The better-performing vines from the for the oak that provides more structure be able to age for 20 to 30 years, as historyoriginal St Peter’s vineyard were cloned and flavour. We don’t really want to has shown. When you get a good bottleand planted in vineyard land to the north of impart too much new oak flavour; we are with a good cork they are amazing winesthe winery. “We've got numerous plantings going more for the structural elements but there's such variation in the bottles I’veof it (the clone) up the back, ranging from that oak provides.” tried of the same vintage. I’m hoping with15 to 25 years old,” says Jo. the screw cap we can avoid it.” Jo suggests that over the years the oak She puts the consistency of St Peter’s regime for St Peter’s shiraz has probably The 2008 St Peter’s was bottled inshiraz down to the fact that it was never changed as many times as there have been December 2009 and will be releasedsourced from a single vineyard block. Seppelt winemakers. And there have been this October at a retail price expected a few. Today, she considers the St Peter’s to remain steady at around $65 a bottle. In fact, those with longish memories may oak a “sweet” oak. Its early wine show success highlightedremember that the St Peter’s brand name what the Seppelt winemakers felt abouthas only been associated with the wine The essence of the wine remains the wine, when it took a silver medal at thesince the 1998 vintage. Before that it was pretty much the same: blackberry, plum, 2010 Royal Melbourne Wine Show andlabelled Seppelt Great Western Shiraz licorice and spice flavours wrapped a trophy at last year’s Western Victoria(and before that Hermitage), the name in a coat of modest alcohol and a firm Wine Challenge.change merely reinforcing the flagshipquality of the wine. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 57

2NDPLACE THE KEY TO AGEING GRACEFULLY WOLF BLASS 2006 PLATINUM With corks, there was so much oxidation happening in that ageing process; every single bottle was different.JENI PORTAN ACCIDENTAL OUTCOME - “We really wanted to pay homage to the Barossa. We were also looking to makeand a delightful one at that - of the move to something that was maybe a little bitscrew caps as a closure on many Australian different to the existing Wolf Blass range,wines is the added longevity they can which was a much more traditional style ofnow bring to a wine. For Wolf Blass 2006 wine. We tried to come up with somethingPlatinum shiraz, the screw cap has the that was a bit more contemporary, usingpotential to add years to the wine’s life. winemaking techniques that were different.” Instead of improving over 10-plus years, The first major departure from the Wolfthe timeline has now increased closer to Blass School of Winemaking was to not15 years. “Probably 20,” adds Wolf Blass finish the fermentation in oak. The shirazconsultant winemaker Caroline Dunn. “The fruit for the first vintage, sourced from thewine won’t be fresh in the sense that it was Eden Valley, was left on skins for longer.just bottled but it will age in the bottle in a The process would provide what Carolinenice way, a more graceful way.” calls “an elegant line and structure”. Caroline has a long history with the wine In another departure, the wine receiveddating back to the first release with the 1998 100 per cent French oak in 225-litrevintage when she was working full-time at barriques. American oak, the oak du jourWolf Blass Winery in the Barossa Valley as at the time for Barossa shiraz, was castsenior red winemaker. aside. This shiraz was going to be different. The philosophy behind the creation of The role of the barrique was unusualPlatinum was simple. Wolf Blass needed for its time. Traditionally, Australian redan ‘iconic’ Barossa shiraz. “At that time we winemakers have favoured a bigger barrel,were based in the Barossa but we didn’t the 300-litre hogshead, a vessel seen ashave a Barossa wine,” says Caroline.58 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A ZWolf Blass visitors centre. Visitor centre entrance. Barrel hall at Wolf Blass visitors centre. Opposite: Wolf Blass & consultant winemaker Caroline Dunn.distinctly Australian and rarely used outside as the fruit source, and if a vintage proved the Noughties. Similar in style to thethe country. “In theory you should be getting unsuitable then the wine would not be made. idiosyncratic 2002, the ’06 Platinum comesmore oak (flavour) from a barrique than you from a slightly warmer vintage with gooddo with a hogshead,” says Caroline. “I don’t Gradually, as the style evolved and maybe structure and a more generous servingnecessarily see it. I think barriques - and due to the influence of some pretty tough, of fruit richness. “What it does have isit’s just a personal opinion - tend to bring hot years, the winemakers went back to the really good concentration of fruit flavour, aa different texture to the wine. I see wines vineyard, where it all starts, and made some brightness of fruit,” says Caroline. “The 2006getting a backbone of tannin through them changes. Protection of the fruit became a vintage was one of those kind of vintagesbut also a silkiness that I don’t see as much number one priority. “Better fruit protection where everything worked, the weather wascoming out of a hogshead.” means there is less oxidation happening good and when the fruit arrived at the winery in those really early stages when we are everyone was really excited.” In the early days of Platinum, fruit sourcing getting the fruit to the winery,” says Caroline.did range further than intended in the “In that early stage in getting the fruit off To Caroline, the use of a screw cap onoriginal brief. Platinum started out as a the vine a lot of oxidation can take place. Platinum (first introduced with the 2001single-vineyard wine from the Eden Valley That was one of the key things we wanted vintage) is the icing on the shiraz’s cake,and then, with 2000 and 2001, two of South to do with Platinum and that has now been not only extending its ageing ability butAustralia’s hottest vintages of the Noughties, brought through to the entire range.” maintaining the flavours as the winemakersthe Wolf Blass winemakers decided to intended. “They age so much better,”source shiraz from the Adelaide Hills. In keeping with the clean fruit philosophy, she says. “With corks, there was so Wolf Blass winemakers won’t use wild much oxidation happening in that ageing The wine was keeping to the ‘elegance’ yeasts to kick-start the fermentation. “The process; every single bottle was different.brief, and certainly alcohol was kept under sort of complexity you get with wild yeasts With screw caps you see all the positivescontrol a little better by going to the cooler is not really the style we were after,” of ageing, all that lovely integration andHills region, but Platinum was losing direction. explains Caroline. development of flavours, but the wine stillThat’s when the decision was made for the retains freshness and vibrancy.”2002 vintage to stick to the Barossa Valley The 2006 vintage stands out as one of the great Australian red vintages of September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 59

3RDPLACEA FINE BLENDOF PARTNERS MADELEINES NANGKITA 2007 SHIRAZ It’s what’s under the sand - all that broken-up ironstone - that gives the wines their character. GREG REID IN THE HEART of the Fleurieu brand - but people had trouble pronouncing it. So we thought it was best to use another Peninsula lies a small but very successful name and we changed to ‘Madeleines’.” operation that’s the base of Madeleines Nangkita Wines - and the home of a Earlier in his career, as a winemaker at wonderful relationship between winemaker Lindemans, Chris oversaw the production of Chris Dix and crusty, down-to-earth huge corporate blends. He also worked at grapegrower Peter Belej, and their families. St Hubert’s in the Yarra Valley, but fate and marriage intervened and in 1999 he set up From a back road operation midway his own winemaking operation at Nangkita. between Mount Compass and Currency Creek, the partnership is producing From the outset his focus was on Northern exceptional wines - and right at the top of Rhone-style wines, not only because he loved the pile is Madeleines Nangkita Shiraz 2007. them, but because the varieties suit the area well. As he explains: “Nangkita is similar The Madeleines story began in 1999, to Bordeaux in that it’s only 30km from the when Chris established the original ocean. Nangkita is more elevated with less Vincognita Winery at Nangkita in 1999. rainfall giving great concentration of fruit.” “That same year my first daughter was also conceived. At the end of our first vintage, in By 2002, and after two vintages using his June 2000, Madeleine Jaime Dix was born own fruit, Chris wanted to get his hands on - and with her birth was born the name for some viognier grapes and the oldest block a future wine brand. around was run by Peter Belej, nicknamed 'Grumpy’. “I rang him up and asked if I “The ‘Madeleines’ name didn’t come could buy some Viognier grapes,” Chris into play until a couple of years ago as we recalls. “Grumpy's response was short originally operated under the ‘Vincognita’60 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A ZMadeleine’s Nangkita vineyard and its grapes. Grapegrower Peter Belej. Opposite: Chris Dix and his daughter Madeleine Jaime Dix.and sharp - No! But then he said, ‘We'll saw the birth of the Madeleines Nangkita Bright plum red in colour, the wine hasmake it together’.” 2007 Shiraz. “It was a dry growing season aromas of intense, lifted blackberry for most of South Australia, with poor fruits with spice, dark fruit conserve and That was the start of a great partnership spring rains affecting the vigour and chocolate. The intensity and structurethat has evolved between the two families resulting in low yields. As an example, on the palate provide a silky-rich entry,and, more importantly for wine lovers, the our old McLaren Vale block at Willunga showing ripe, sweet berry and darkbirth of a friendship that has led to the saw bunches and berries that were tiny, cherry flavours with a hint of cool-climatedevelopment of Madeleines Nangkita Shiraz. giving us huge concentration, but only dark olive. three barrels of shiraz. On the upside, our It is best that Peter Belej tells this part Nangkita vineyard had a wonderful year The juicy, rich wine needs more time toof the story because it is his vineyard with ample water available to supplement soften the tannins and will drink well untilthat produces the wine. It’s a 40-hectare the minimal rains. However, yields were 2015 and beyond.vineyard based on off-white sand and lower than normal at less than four tonnesround shot-like ironstone pieces. “It’s per hectare, yielding an earlier vintage of Not bad for a bloke who started hiswhat’s under the sand - all that broken- rich, ripe shiraz with lovely ripe tannins.” winery off the back of a ute and today hasup ironstone - that gives the wines their a wonderful philosophy of winemaking: “Bycharacter,” says Peter. “Under the vineyard The result was that Chris was able to applying all our viticultural and winemakingruns an aquifer which once sustained 28 select “the best of the best” from his finest knowledge and expertise, coupled withdairy properties and now has less pressure shiraz barrels from the superb Madeleines innovative techniques that can only ever beon it from four grape blocks and just one Nangkita 2007 Shiraz. small scale, we have complete control ofremaining dairy. I have a good idea what’s quality throughout the whole grapegrowinghappening under the ground, so I know The grapes were basket pressed and and winemaking process.”when it needs water.” the blend barrel-fermented in French and American barriques, then further All power to Chris Dix and Peter Belej And water can be a rare commodity - just matured for 20 months before bottling. and their families, and particularly toask Chris Dix about the 2007 vintage that Madeleines Nangkita Shiraz. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 61

categor y winnersSHIRAZ/SYRAH & BLENDSTHE STATSthat countNUMBER TASTED: 657NUMBERRECOMMENDED: 356% recommended: 54%NUMBER FIVE STARS(Gold Award): 27% awarded: 4.1%NUMBER FOUR& HALF STARS(High Silver Award): 53% awarded: 8.1%NUMBER FOUR STARS(Silver Award): 74% awarded: 11.3%NUMBER THREE UNDER $10 $10-$15 $15-$20 $20-$25& HALF STARS(High Bronze Award): 60 Cock + Bull Estate Grown Casella Wines Yellow Kilikanoon Killerman’s Pertaringa Undercover% awarded: 9.1% South Australia Shiraz Tail Reserve Shiraz 2009 Run Shiraz 2009 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 $6.90 HHHH1/2 $14.99 HHHHH $18 2009 HHHH1/2 $22NUMBER THREE STARS(Bronze Award): 142% awarded: 21.6%$40-$50 $50-$60 $60-$70 $70-$80 $80-$100Madeleines NSX Mitchelton Wines Ross Wines JDR Seppelt St Peters Paringa EstateNangkita Single Vineyard Print Shiraz 2009 Barossa Shiraz Grampians Shiraz 2008 Reserve MorningtonSouthern Fleurieu Shiraz HHHHH $55 2008 HHHHH $60 HHHHH $70 Peninsula Shiraz2007 HHHHH $48 2007 HHHHH $8062 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T S YR A H & S H I R A Z australia TOP WINES 1 Seppelt St Peters Grampians Shiraz 2008 $70 2 Wolf Blass Platinum Label Barossa Shiraz 2006 $160 3 Madeleines NSX Nangkita Single Vineyard Southern Fleurieu Shiraz 2007 $48 4 Wolf Blass Platinum Label Barossa Shiraz 2008 $160 5 Penfolds Grange Shiraz 2006 $700 6 Ben Potts Fiddle’s Block Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2007 $40 7 1847 Pappy’s Paddock Barossa Shiraz 2006 $35 8 Mitchelton Wines Print Shiraz 2009 $55 9 Shingleback Unedited McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 $70 10 Henschke Hill of Grace Eden Valley Shiraz 2006 $549.99 new zealand TOP WINES$25-$30 $30-$40 1 Bilancia La Collina Hawkes Bay Shiraz 2008 $100 2 Bilancia La Collina Hawkes Bay Shiraz 2009 $100Palmer Wines Margaret 1847 Pappy’s Paddock 3 Trinity Hill Homage Hawkes Bay NZ Syrah 2009 $92River Shiraz 2008 Barossa Shiraz 2006 4 Tinpot Hut Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007 $30HHHHH $27.50 HHHHH $35 5 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay NZ Shiraz 2009 $27 6 Craggy Range Single Vineyard Hawkes Bay NZ Syrah 2009 $23 france TOP WINES 1 M. Chapoutier L’Ermite Hermitage France Syrah 2007 $599 2 Guigal Lieu-Dit Saint Joseph Syrah 2008 $75 3 Yves Cuilleron L’Amarybelle Saint-Joseph Syrah 2008 $62 4 Guigal Chateau d’Ampuis Cote-Rotie France Syrah 2007 $235 5 Paul Jaboullet Aine La Chappelle Hermitage France Syrah 2007 $420 6 Domaine Rostaing La Landonne Cote-Rotie France Syrah 2007 $218 7 Guigal Vignes De L’Hospice Saint-Joseph France Syrah 2007 $170 8 Domaine des Lises Crozes Hermitage Rhone Valley France Syrah 2007 $52.50 9 Paul Jaboulet Aine Domaine de Thalabert Crozes Hermitage France Syrah 2005 $53.99$100-$200 $200+ the ame ricas TOP WINESWolf Blass Platinum Penfolds Grange Shiraz 1 Norton Reserva Mendoza Argentina Syrah 2005 $14.99Label Barossa Shiraz 2006 HHHHH $700 2 Sequel Columbia Valley USA Syrah 2006 $752006 HHHHH $160 WORLD’S GREATEST SHIRAZ CHALLENGE STARTS PAGE 106.

brisbanegrapevineLIZZIE LOELFor year’s, perennial favourite chef busy on weekends as locals clamour for noodles and crispy tofu. Both Plumm andPJ McMillan has been talking about his the ricotta and buttermilk pikelets with Riedel glassware are stocked in-store andplanned renovation of his bistro, Harvey’s. caramelised banana, the spicy mince on flour events are hosted regularly in the eveningsBut as Christmas turned to Easter and tortillas with poached eggs, and potato and showcasing these items. Hampton’s issummers faded into winters, it seemed that feta roesti with Serrano and herb salsa. 31 also available for hire for private partiesthe many hurdles just couldn’t be jumped James St, New Farm; phone (07) 3852 3700. or corporate events. 180 Latrobe Tce,and James St would continue to have the Paddington; phone (07) 3367 2002.same deliciously reliable (if slightly tired) Paddington is fast emerging as a leafylooking bistro. Fast forward to May of this precinct packed with great cafes and unique The CBD dining scene took a pretty badyear and suddenly, after a short closure, boutiques, as well as great design and interior pounding during the January floods but byPJ and family (he and wife Sam just had shops. Simpatico is, as the name suggests, mid-year the paint was dry and it was businesstheir third baby) moved into earthy new friendly and welcoming, with a large open as usual for many of the riverfront restaurants.digs from where he produces three sittings balcony and limited seating inside and, at the John Kilroy’s Jellyfish was inundated and bar, chef Ken Bryce offers a brief collection his Eagle St Pier steakhouse, Cha Cha Char, along with Il Centro, Aria and Sake, was forced to close for a couple of weeks due to flooding in the basement. But that didn’t stop plans for the opening of Organic Char, John’s latest venture adjacent to Char, albeit slightly later than previously planned. The 50-seat atrium-style venue is a fully certified organic restaurant with a strong focus on sustainable and organic produce that is locally grown. The decor is fresh and crisp, with high-back white leather chairs and marble table tops and, with glass walls on two sides, sunshine flows in through the day.a day as well as providing a base for his of starters followed by a wider choice to The menu features organic grass-fedcatering business. Industrial chic with a warm share and then a list of mains like roasted beef, pristine salads and vegetable dishes,edge encapsulates the fit-out - dark wood Grimaud duck breast with caramelised orange sustainable seafood and a roast of the day -and earthy-toned marble accents form a dressing, oven-roasted barramundi with duck, lamb, turkey, chicken, always organicbackdrop for metal stools and chairs. There’s Jerusalem artichokes and chicken jus and an and served with a medley of roasted rootlots of glass and plenty of indoor/outdoor blur, OP rib fillet with duck fat chips and mustard vegetables and a couple of sauces. There’sperfect for the Queensland climate. butter. Corner Given and Latrobe terraces, also a comprehensive wine list featuring all Paddington; phone (07) 3367 1117. organic wines from Australia, New Zealand Harvey’s is really good for any time of the and Europe, and even the coffee and tea areday. Regulars drop in for coffee and the Follow the street around a few more bends certified organic. Eagle Street Pier, Eagle St,paper, breakfast at the weekends is packed and you’ll find Hampton’s, a large, renovated Brisbane; phone (07) 3211 9944.to the rafters, lunch is a sunny, largely ladies’ shopfront brimming with tasteful homewaresaffair and in the evening the lights go down from furniture, lamps, bedding and tableware Above: Harvey’s bistro dining.and the mood changes to dinner in the to bread boards, platters and hand cream.garden or drinks at the invitingly timbered bar. And that’s not all - Hampton’s is also a cafe, utilising the wrap-around Queenslander-style As always, though, his food is honest, balcony that commands striking views of theseason-driven and always appealing. This western hills for seating, as well as a backis classic Aussie bistro fare – pared-back area for communal dining at a large pinepresentation and largely European-inspired table. It’s the brainchild of ex-Melbournedishes with the occasional foray into parts restaurateur Luke Stringer (ex-Oyster) andof Asia, especially in summer when dishes his wife Tania, an interior designer.like spiced crab salad and warm duck andcoriander salad are popular for obvious The menu is more substantial thanreasons. There’s a strong wine list of lesser- regular cafe fare - think crispy corn cakesknown labels and smaller producers dotted with chorizo and roasted pepper salad,with favourites from both sides of the pond. braised lamb shank ragu on soft polentaBreakfast is served daily and it’s especially and coconut and chicken laksa with egg64 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINChin Chin, the new CBD venture of coconut marinated with cucumber and on provincial, simple and robust dishesrestaurateur and businessman Chris mint raita. The cocktail list is quirky; fancy based around quality ingredients and theLucas (formerly of The Botanical and a mix of chargrilled pineapple, tequila, wine list, created by Adam and beveragenow owner of the Pearl Restaurant pressed lemon, pineapple gomme and manager Greg Lightfoot, supports thegroup), opened with a bang in June. pedro ximenez sherry? menu with a smart selection of EuropeanFast, furious and delicious is a way to and Victorian wines. 157 Fitzroy St,describe the simply designed room that The service here is slick and speedy and, St Kilda; phone (03) 9525 4488. Andrewseats 120 but is feeding up to 300 people while it’s not rude, it’s very much to the McConnell, executive chef and co-owneron Friday and Saturday nights. Chin Chin point: there are crowds to be fed here and of award-winning restaurants Cumulusis built around food inspired by various the team in the kitchen, led by executive Inc. and Cutler & Co., opened GoldenAsian cuisines. chef Andrew Gimber and head chef Fields in late May on St Kilda’s Fitzroy St, Benjamin Cooper see that the food gets which sees the much-lauded chef open The menu is large but not overwhelmingly to the tables quickly. It’s this energy in Chin his first solo venture. Golden Fields isso and the menu may include dishes under Chin, the good-value dishes all created the fulfillment of a desire of Andrew’s tosimple titles such as ‘Little Somethings’, to be shared and the great location on express his own interpretation of disheswhere you’ll find kingfish sashimi with Flinders Lane, smack-bang in the CBD, that from his years living in Shanghai and Honglime, chilli and coconut or spicy corn has made it a fun place to visit. 125 Flinders Kong, and ‘Modern Asian’ is the umbrellaand coriander fritters with iceberg Lane, Melbourne; phone (03) 8663 2000. under which the food is categorised.lettuce and chilli jam. Another sectionof the menu called ‘Green Stuff’ carries Two long-time mates, chef Nicky This broad term encapsulates what isthe likes of organic silken tofu, banana Riemer, who was most recently executive basically an expression of what Andrewblossom, Thai basil and a hot, sweet, chef at Melbourne Wine Room, and former wants to convey as modern Asian. Hebitter dressing. There are curries as well front-of-house manager at Cutler & Co, has drawn broadly from Asian cuisinesas a barbecue section; think outside Adam Cash, have talked about doing mixed with his own Irish heritage andthe square a little with barbecued goat, something together for years and it finally classic French training to produce an came to fruition in May in the shape of intensely personal menu. Sea urchin and Union Dining on Swan St in Richmond. crisp lardo on flatbread; pork dumplings, The room has been designed by architects fat with steamed dough reminiscent of steamed pork buns; a hot buttered Peckvonhartel and the brief was to create roll filled with crayfish and Kewpie a space that had a broad European feel, mayonnaise lead the way to poached something like a trattoria or bistro, and chicken with sesame paste, house-made this low-key but stylish feel translates to rice noodles and chilli and beef brisket the menu, where Nicky has produced with wasabi butter and garlic shoots. a selection of share plates, appetisers, salads and mains such as kingfish The room was designed by Dion Hall carpaccio with pickled baby beetroot and Nick Cox from Projects of Imagination, and capers, baked ricotta on bay leaves who are gaining strong reputations through with braised peppers and olives, or there their work with restaurants - they also may be a main of pan-roasted hapuka designed Coda Restaurant, Chin Chin and with wilted greens, mushrooms and baby Mr Tulk in the State Library. The designers leeks. The emphasis at Union Dining is used their contacts to employ the artisanal skills of ceramicist Shane Kent to create the beautiful dining plates, Robert Hook for his metal work, Zenta Tenaka from Cibi in Fitzroy for tableware and Michaela Webb from graphic design studio Round for a pared-back identity. Golden Fields became busy very quickly, due to Andrew McConnell’s reputation and the quality of his food, but people are returning in droves to taste one chef’s interpretation of a very broad and delicious cuisine. 157 Fitzroy St, St Kilda; phone (03) 9525 4488. Above: Chin Chin interior. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 65

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGSometimes it's easy to forget that Peter Not only is the food impeccable, A brigade of Italian chefs man the rangesGilmore is a national treasure. His but the staff are first-rate and so is and whether you drop by for a basic pastasignature restaurant, Quay, is only one the view of Sydney Harbour and the or the baroque desserts for which Sicily isof a trio of three-hatted restaurants in the Opera House just outside the picture famous, such as cassata cake and cannoli,2011 Sydney Morning Herald Good Food windows. Overseas Passenger Terminal, but this is more than a cafe. The antipastiGuide (the other two are Marque and est) The Rocks; phone (02) 9251 5600. table from the delicatessen section is lushand has won more awards than any other with Italian sausages, cheeses and pickledrestaurant in the country. Jason Saxby, Fortunately, Surry Hills is only a short drive vegetables. I often have the Italian-styleone of the restaurant's newer members in from my home. Even better, you can dine in three-bean soup with mussels when Ithe kitchen, took out the Young Chef of the Sydney's hottest food ’burb on any budget, come in search of a fast lunch. When I’mYear award. And for the past two years, whether your wallet dictates a small Thai looking for a more leisurely dinner, mainsQuay has been the top-placed Australian cafe or can stretch to Marque, one of the such as rabbit with vino cotto, almondsrestaurant in the San Pellegrino World’s 50 city’s most stellar restaurants. But it’s hard and sultanas ‘Lipari style’, or swordfishBest Restaurant list. tart filled with caponata melanzane fill the to bypass the come-on of Caffe Sicilia, bill. An impressive wine list of Italian and When his famous snow egg dessert which bills itself as offering rustic regional Australian bottlings keeps many dinersmade its appearance as the ultimate Sicilain cuisine, old-fashioned service and here, just people watching, long after theychallenge during last year's season finale an atmosphere redolent of 1940s Sicily. should have moved on. 628 Crown St, Surryof MasterChef, Peter’s star power burned Well, the rich part of the island anyway. Hills; phone (02) 9699 8787.even brighter. Yet the man himself remainsrefreshingly down to earth as his food The white-coated waiters are handsome The Devonshire, in the street of the samekeeps getting better and better. If I have and funny, the chequered floor and bar name, is comfy in its way, too. The decor iseaten a more delicious piece of meat than look straight out of a Cinecitta movie crisp with white-clothed tables and ornatehis poached wagyu, oxtail, black pudding, starring Marcello Mastroianni and it’s open mirrors on the wall, thanks to leading interiorfarro, hazelnut and ezekiel, the memory has all hours - six days a week from 7am to designer Victoria Waters, but you feelvanished. The name may be longer than midnight; 7am to 10pm on Sundays. What’s very relaxed. The food is French-inspiredthe Old Testament book Peter claims was not to like? in the main because Adelaide-born chefthe inspiration for this most tender of beef Jeremy Bentley is an alumnus of London'smains, but it tasted as rich as Croesus. The Square and restaurant Balzac in Randwick. Impressively, you won’t find I adore Quay’s wine list - well-edited better value than the $35 lunch specialyet all-encompassing - and when the which includes three courses. I was verysommelier suggested a 2009 Domaine Haut happy with the smoked mackerel with peaBourg ‘Le Pavillon’ Muscadet, I was happy and preserved lemon risotto, Bangalowto go along with the idea. A sparkling foil for sweet pork fillet, gnocchi, celery and cidermy entree of raw sea scallop, horseradish, jus and apple and walnut crumble on offerpickled apple, smoked eel and sorrel, as for less than two $20 bills.it turned out. But it was back to home turffor my fellow diner, who matched his tuna Mains veer from manly offerings suchbelly, jamon de bellota, juniper, pink turnips as grain-fed angus sirloin, sweetbreads,and wasabi with a glass of 2010 Lethbridge Jerusalem artichoke and shallot vinaigrettePinot Gris from Geelong. to light but satisfying fish dishes such as steamed snapper, stuffed chicken wings, salsify, white onion and red wine sauce. Jeremy Bentley likes to say that he doesn’t take himself too seriously, and proves the point with his signature dessert of Devonshire tea creme brulee, scone ice-cream, cherry jam and whipped cream. An even more aristocratic version of Eton Mess; leave plenty of stomach room for it. 204 Devonshire St, Surry Hills; phone (02) 9698 9427. Above: Caffe Sicilia interior. Centre: Caffe Sicilia’s Italian pastries. Below: Caffe Sicilia’s tuna roll.66 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

perthgrapevine ROD PROPERJOHNThe Ascot/Rivervale strip of the Great you’re thinking, but there are no jellyfish barbecued pork and sweet sauce encasedEastern Highway is not noted for restaurants, in the tanks. The hock has been pared in doughy round rolls. Opting for a couple ofespecially fine-dining restaurants, although thinly and strategically placed as a border dishes off the menu, we choose a plate ofthe iconic and expensive King Arthur’s on a round plate with a large dollop of plump, sweet scallops to enjoy with a smartTable was once happily ensconced sliced ochre-coloured jellyfish sitting in the sauvignon blanc and half a roasted duck tohere. The Aquarium Seafood Chinese middle. A bowl of sweet and heavily spiced savour with a pinot noir and an aged sticky.Restaurant has some fast-food outlets as vinegar dressing is served separately. Usingneighbours but it manages to serve some chopsticks, we pick up some firm jellyfish, A couple of sleeve-pullers tell us thatof the best Asian food in Perth. roll a slice of fatty hock around it, dunk it in dinner is the time for a relaxed meal here, the sauce and pow! We savour a mouthful and that the food goes up a couple of This large, modern 200-seater with a of sweet and sour, fatty, spicy, mouth- notches in the evening. We look forwarddazzling crystal chandelier, marble features, exploding crunch. Food costs at Aquarium to that, but nonetheless we enjoy our yumwhite napery and waistcoated staff has been are around $50 a head, as long as you cha/a la carte lunch and the cost of $70hanging awards on its wall for some time, shun the expensive, more exotic dishes. It for two doesn’t hurt much. Regal on Roeyet I’ve neglected to dine here until now. is fully licensed and there is no BYO, but is licensed but allows BYO. 20 Roe St,Although an aquarium is a visual stimulus, you should find something suitable on the Northbridge; phone (08) 9228 2198.there is something about one in a seafood wine list and the prices are not over-inflated,restaurant that unsettles me and there is a as in most fine-diners. 202 Great Eastern Many suburban Chinese restaurants haveblock of a six here. I’ve been a keen angler Highway, Ascot; phone (08) 9478 1868. a forgettable facade and interior decor isfor most of my life, but seeing water-filled not high on priority. Diners don’t mind atglass boxes with live piscatorial beauty My good wine mate and I drop in for an all, as long as the tucker is good and well-swimming around, awaiting selection, a la carte lunch around 1pm and quickly priced. In North Perth, you’d walk past thedispatching, cooking and plating doesn’t realise it’s the wrong thing to do. Regal on Fitzgerald Seafood Restaurant without aentice me to a seafood meal. Roe, which serves Cantonese food, is in the second glance, but son No. 2, who spent latter stages of yum cha and we are there to years living in Singapore and is crazy about There are plate-size silver perch here, as quietly assess a couple of new-release wines all Asian cuisine, can’t keep away fromwell as barramundi, lobster, mud crab and over a leisurely meal. Soon we are inundated this little gem. It seats about 50 and I tuckAlaskan snow crab. The crabs are hogtied in with him one evening. The xiaolongbaowith, string so they won’t dismember one by waiters offering deep-fried whitebait,another or their handlers. The menu is wantons, chicken feet, prawn dumplings and (Shanghai dumplings) and sang choi baomassive with a large section devoted to chilli squid. It’s noisy and we soon fall to the are great, as are the claypot dishes and,Westernised Chinese food straight from temptation of these enticing dishes as they of course, seafood is a specialty. We sharethe seventies, and lists just about every are proffered under our noses. an Alaskan crab (a deep-water crab caughtsuburban Chinese restaurant dish I’ve locally in the Southern Ocean) cooked inknown and eaten. At the back are a couple Prawn dumplings are gelatinous, sticky butter and garlic; it’s mouth-wateringlyof pages of more unusual Chinese dishes, and delightful, deep-fried chilli squid brilliant. Booking is essential in the evening.and we concentrate on this section. We tentacles have great flavour, not too hot, BYO. 388 Fitzgerald St, North Perth;allow the fish, crab and lobster to remain but are ‘hit and miss’, with some pieces phone (08) 9227 8822.swimming and order meat, rice and meltingly tender and others as tough andvegetable dishes with one small aberration. persistent as a wine rep with a large folio. Above: Regal on Roe. Pork buns are brilliant, with pieces of rich, Below: Aquarium Seafood Chinese Restaurant. Our outstanding dish of the evening ispork hock and jellyfish ($24). I know what September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 67

adelaidegrapevineGRAEME ANDREWSSingapore House’s external facade is to explore. Service, headed by manager experience as soon as possible. 40 Unleysubtly inviting - dark timber planking with Naveen Irkulla, is precise and friendly. Rd, Unley; phone (08) 8272 4455.cascades of intense, white light trails. Push Despite the glamorous fit-out, prices sitthrough the door and kapow! - the senses comfortably between cafe and fine dining. Mantra On King William opened to grandare assaulted. There’s no doubt a design A unique restaurant and fantasy rolled accolades in November 2007. Containedinnovator has been given free play - not into one. 203 Glen Osmond Rd, Frewville; within a carefully renovated period building,unreasonably when you think of it, as he’s phone (08) 8379 4405. it has been decorated with great thoughtone of British Indian Trading Co Ltd. co- and care. Front-of-house partner Benowners, infused with 10 years’ hands-on I’m going to declare a ground-breaking Warren continues to be a most charmingdecor and decorating experience. new law if I become prime minister. All host and his wine knowledge must rate as suburbs must have at least one restaurant awesome. Given a chance, he will blow By the right side of the entrance lobby that’s licensed and highly affordable, open your palate (not budget) away, from hisstands a floor-to-ceiling dark timber shadow most nights and dedicated to serving personally selected cellar. But somewherebox strewn with Oriental artefacts; in front, delightful cuisine, packaged in tandem with along the way, cuisine started to lose its edgya long, carved antique Chinese counter, warm, inviting smiles and attentive service. consistency, becoming erratic and uncertain.surrounded by bar stools, beckons. What Like a home away from home. The appointment of head chef Tom Reidbetter place for a refreshing pre-dinner has reversed the situation. Yorkshire-trained,drink? To the left is the butterfly room, walls A perfect contender for Unley is Chui’s, he quickly graduated to sous at numerouscovered with glass-mounted, multicoloured a narrow, long room with pale green walls premium English Hotel du Vin establishments.specimens, an ideal retreat for private adorned with a few contemporary Oriental A warmer-climate holiday, with a quick stint atfunctions or dining room overflow. paintings. Black-stained timber floorboards the famous Burj al Arab, found him in Australia support a slew of well-spaced tables dressed three years ago. South Australia’s rich food In the main dining area you get that in red and white linen. Lush green palms and wine ethos appealed. Stints at Magillkapow feeling once more. An enormous break up the interior. No big-dollar designer Estate, Wine Underground, Auge and otherspace has been broken up by twin deep- at play here, just a cosy, uncluttered dining luminaries followed.tan chesterfields. Vast corrals of tables room, simple and comfortable and cloakedstraddling the room are buzzing with in restful ambience. He decided to introduce dishes with lessanimated enjoyment. Massive Oriental Asian focus and more Eurocentric to Mantra Chui’s offers Vietnamese/Chinese cuisine, On King William. Much of his inspirationrugs sprawl across a white concrete floor. a somewhat quirky combination for most comes from America’s ‘wonder chef’ ThomasA network of stunning wrought metal pieces, Australians. However, a quick check on Keller. Dishes pivot around precise cooking,elegant plants and exotic antiques play any map will quickly confirm Vietnam is careful flavour balance and presentationpeek-a-boo wherever you sit. Sweeps of very firmly attached to China. bordering on sensational. Mantra Onspectacular tubular lighting soar overhead, King William is soaring skywards again.dramatic and sensationally bold. Wen Wang runs front of house with all 36 King William Rd, Goodwood; phone (08) the panache of a professionally trained 8377 7201; mantraonkingwilliam.com.au. Cuisine does not follow traditional Malay, hospitality graduate. Husband Chui LiangChinese, Nonya and Indian traditions frantically works unaided as chef in his This is Graeme Andrew’s final column forcommon to Singapore, but uses all four in a kitchen; his mission, pure pleasure and Adelaide Grapevine. We sincerely thankmore inspirational sense. It’s a courageous consistency in every plate. Despite his being him for his contribution over the years andjourney dotted with both highs and lows. raised in southern China, his cooking style wish him all the best.But don’t be put off. Dishes constantly continues to march strongly into Vietnameseevolve so there’s always something new territory. Stir-fried duck fillet with onion, Above: Singapore House interior. capsicum, carrot and broccoli or Saigon chilli Left: Private dining in the butterfly room. fish will draw a rush of lip-smacking nostalgia from travellers to their country of origin. Don’t miss the beef or lotus shoot salad with racy chilli and lemon juice dressing. Vegetarians should hotfoot it to the spicy Mapo tofu hot pot. A specials board allows Chui to ‘test drive’ new ideas. The night I went, soft-shell crab and roasted pork fillet were doing a roaring trade. Four phrases sum up the whole restaurant experience. Clean, fresh ingredients (organic where possible), precise cooking employed with almost fanatical care, unmuddied flavours, exceptional balance and diners’ burning desire to repeat the68 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011



winewords P E T E R P R A T T E NSKYE MURTAGHTHERE was never any assumption by Dr vineyards. We have arguably the largest What’s the one rule you always follow whenPeter Pratten and his wife Elizabeth, founders picking window of any family-owned winery it comes to selecting wines for yourself?of WA winery Capel Vale, that son Simon in WA, with estate-owned vineyards in Regionality does dictate my decisionwould automatically join the family owned Capel, Margaret River, Pemberton and Mt making because it’s been a core partand operated business. Given free rein to Barker. Hence, the team has a long and of Capel Vale’s philosophy since Peterdevelop his own career path, Simon spent protracted vintage; this gives them the started it, which does fit nicely with thealmost six years at the University of Western opportunity and time to handle and trial Australian Wine Industry’s 2025 strategy.Australia - attaining two degrees - before winemaking techniques with superior fruit. That said, I am willing to try anything. If Itaking positions with two major corporate don’t like it, I’ll give it another go. If I don’tbusinesses, outside the wine industry. What’s the most memorable bottle of like it a second time, I move on. There areFrom the sidelines, he’d watched with interest wine you’ve ever consumed? so many great wines out there. It’s a wineand pride as the family business grew from I call these wine moments when everything lover’s paradise.Peter planting a fruit salad of vines on an old seems to come together - great food, greatorchard in Capel in the state’s south west in wine, great friends. One that comes to mind What do you see as the biggest1974. One of the pioneers of winemaking is the first time I tried prosecco. It was a hot challenges facing the Australian winein WA, Peter went on to plant vineyards in day in Piedmont, Italy. I was on holidays; industry, particularly WA, over the nextMt Barker, Pemberton and Margaret River. the wine was so drinkable, with lovely acid five years?Today, Capel Vale is a fully integrated wine balance, and suited the occasion perfectly. One could write an essay on this issue.business - from vineyard to bottle. Peter and Remaining competitive can be challengingElizabeth remain active in the business, with Where’s the most unusual place you've with the Australian and global oversupplySimon - who joined the team in 2003 and took consumed wine? of wine. China and the South-East Asianover the CEO role in 2007 - now managing In Switzerland, on a mountain pass in a region are burgeoning markets forthe vineyard’s day-to-day operations. small stone shepherd’s hut. It was with our Australia and brand Australia needs to Swiss distributor and he wanted to give position itself carefully in these markets.What’s one thing about Capel Vale Winery us a taste of Switzerland. Unfortunately, Selling poor-quality wine at unsustainablepeople may be surprised to discover? as it’s prone to do at those altitudes, prices to these markets is not going toThat Peter Pratten, as Capel Vale’s the weather changed abruptly. I was in assist our cause. France has done a verywinemaker-owner in 1986, won the business pants and shirt and we could not good job in educating these markets thatAustralian Championship Dry White wine see more than 10 metres in front of us,in Adelaide with a WA riesling from estate- and rain and sleet closed in. I shiveredowned vineyards in Mt Barker and Capel, and gratefully drank the chilled Chasselasagainst all white varieties from all over Swiss wine. It was comical. We soon gaveAustralia. To my knowledge, this was a first up and jumped back into the car andfor a Western Australian white - let alone a hastily drove down the mountain. To thisriesling to be awarded this honour. WA can day I still don’t know how spectacular theand does make excellent rieslings. view from the pass is.What’s your proudest achievement as What’s your favourite wine accessory?CEO of Capel Vale? A Vinturi wine aerator and Riedel wineKicking Peter out of the top job! He’s so glasses. I was always sceptical aboutpassionate about the business he created. accessories making wine taste better.No, seriously, it would be moving the However, through sensory evaluationsbusiness forward while maintaining good I’m fully convinced the red Vinturi doesfamily relationships. aerate the wine and improve it. Likewise, Riedel glasses manage to concentrateDescribe the Capel Vale winemaking team the aromas of wine and hence increaseand what makes it a successful unit? the enjoyment. I love showing friendsIt’s small and focused on regional wines at dinner parties the difference thesefrom our four cool-climate, family-owned accessories can make.70 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

their wine is the best in the world. Wineeducation from an Australian perspectiveis paramount in these new markets.Describe your own personal winecollection.Eclectic and erratic - I must sort it out oneday. Offers of help would be appreciated!I once heard the stat that 90 per cent ofAustralians buy wine and consume it inhalf an hour. I’m part of the 90 per cent. Ido have some obscure wine swapped orbought from boutique winemakers I’ve meton wine business around the world.Recall your first wine encounter.Around the dinner table with my family.Food and wine has been part of life.Good food and wine pairing is a greatskill and really enhances the food, wineand family arguments.What’s your favourite food and winecombination for a typical WA spring day?On a yacht in Geographe Bay cooking freshlycaught calamari on the boat’s barbecue,drinking riesling, watching the sunset overCape Naturaliste with great friends.What is the best way of teachingwine appreciation?To encourage people to try it with foodand friends. Australian cellar doors do asterling job by letting people try their winebefore they buy. Not many other industriesallow the customer to try the producebefore they purchase it. Imagine walkinginto a restaurant and asking to try all thedishes before choosing which one youwant to buy?Who in the wine business has given youthe best piece of advice - and what was it?Andrew Jefford visited Capel Vale last yearand he mentioned that “Regionality is thegrammar of wine”. It was a delight to hearthis from an international wine commentatoras it is the philosophy Capel Vale hasbelieved in for a long time. September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 71

how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human andOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above their own preference will influence theirare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, scores. We use judges with complementaryprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 backgrounds and a three-person panel forguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but each flight will include winemakers withachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there technical expertise and often a marketing/in an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ retail expert who knows consumer tastes.There are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system Often one or more of the judges are Mastersand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means of Wine with vast international experience,we approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. and most judges have experience at majorA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system Australian wine shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, forWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more example, we will have a winemaker judgeprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other from that region because that person knowsclass being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the the local style. We may balance that with aregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne judge from outside the region and generallywines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. someone with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissensionthey re-taste the wines and come to an HHH Good Bronze 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82agreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist.72 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

the wine & spirit insiderSeptember/October 2011 Issue 119 FREE COPY in this issue B r a n dy , C o g n a c & Armagnac New Releases and Top 40 best wine buys u n d e r $20 In 1994, the De Bortoli family planted the BellaRiva vineyard on the King River at the base of the Victorian Snowfields. BellaRiva in Italian means beautiful riverbank - a fitting description for the spectacular location of De Bortoli's picturesque vineyards on 3.5 kms of King River frontage. bellariva.com.au THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER. Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411

17 TASTED13 AWARDEDB R A N DY, C O G N AC & A R M AG N ACBrandy is the spirit of the grape and here we see some Courvoisier XO ARMAGNACfine examples from Australia and the French regions of Cognac HHHHHCognac and Armagnac. Big hit of rich fruity aromas with 5 TASTED great wood characters to balance. 4 AWARDEDAUSTRALIAN OTHER Silky smooth in the mouth withBRANDY FRENCH BRANDY a lovely complexity of fruit, wood Small but interesting line-up and spirit. A very good cognac where fuller flavour and5 TASTED 1 TASTED albeit light-on in age. $149.99 lovely mouthfeel is the key. Camus XO Elegance Plenty of variety between the3 AWARDED 1 AWARDED Cognac HHHHH different brands. Clean and youthful nose withOne company dominated this Only one entry that did not pleasant, estery fruit bouquet Delord Recoltegroup, offering fantastic value. come from a Cognac or - very elegant. Well-balanced Armagnac 1972 HHHH1/2 Armagnac region. palate - sweet and smooth Very rich and complex, fruitySt Agnes XO with good fruit and great wood style with a lovely goldenBrandy HHHH1/2 Dumangin Vieille Fine de integration. Quite hot spirity colour, nutty/cinnamon aromasRich golden-brown colour with Marne France Brandy HHH elements. $179.99 and similar characters followinga big brandy nose and obvious Light, sweet style with honey Hennessy XO through onto the seamlesslycaramelly wood maturation. aromas and very sweet and Cognac HHHHH smooth palate. $149Beautiful palate - spicy and rich, spicy palate with reasonable Very elegant bouquet - quitewith lovely oak integration and length. $80 sweet, with rich wood and Delord Recolteage complexity. $95 spicy fruit integration. Rich, Armagnac 1996 HHHH1/2 COGNAC full-flavoured palate with great Pleasant complexity of aromasSt Agnes VSOP rancio, sweet wood balance with a little marzipan andBrandy HHHH 6 TASTED and excellent age development some coffee elements. LovelyLight, well-balanced style 5 AWARDED with a lingering finish. $180 rich, aged palate with well-with some nice rancio Remy Martin VSOP developed rancio charactersaromas. Smooth, soft palate \"Great elegance and balance Cognac HHHH and good fruity flavours. $93that's rich and sweet with at the 'pointy' XO end,\" agreed Very rich, smooth, golden-some complexity, good spirit the judges, and with the brown cognac with good wood Tariquet VSOPand some age. $35 VSOPs all that is lacking is age. integration. Extremely smooth Armagnac HHH1/2 and soft in the mouth, with Light and soft, offering easySt Agnes 3 Star sweetness dominating and drinking. Has rancio aromasBrandy HHH exhibiting some great aged and rich and spicy flavours withExcellent depth of sweet characters. $74.99 nicely integrated oak. $46.99vanillin oak aromas and soft, Hennessy VSOPsweet palate full of complex Cognac HHH1/2 Domaine D'Esperanceflavours. $30 Pleasant nose rich with heady Armagnac 1994 HHH1/2 fruit aromas. Smooth, elegant Pleasant doughy/caramelly palate with sweet Cognac bouquet with well-integrated flavours and a slightly spicy hair-oil-like flavours and good fruit finish. $69 wood age. $74JUDGES Russell Johnson Steven Matthews CEO of Russell Johnson Lecturer in hospitality Stan Obst Consulting, for wine studies at Regency College Former corporate & spirit research and of Tafe and formerly projects manager at development. Formerly Adelaide Institute of TAFE. distiller Tarac Australia wine division technical Also a former general Pty Ltd. Has been a manager of Beringer Blass manager of Earl of Zetland lecturer on distillation Wine Estates. Eight years’ Hotel, and malt specialist. at the University of experience as production Adelaide and has judged manager with Seagram the brandy class at the Spirits. Adelaide Wine Show Adelaide Wine Show. judge in the brandy class.74 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER





THE HKTDC HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL WINE AND SPIRITS FAIR 2011The HKTDC Hong Kong International INTERNATIONAL WINE AND SPIRIT COMPETITIONWine and Spirits Fair 2011 has fortifiedits position as the pre-eminent wine trade Held in conjunction with the HK Masters of Wine) and Simon Tamevent in Asia. Now in its fourth year, the International Wine and Spirits Fair, the (Christie’s Head of Wine, China) whofair attracts wine producers from around Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International lead the panels of Asian born and Asianthe globe, including both new and old Wine and Spirit Competition (HKIWSC), based judges, flown in specially for theworld wine growing regions. now in its third year is the largest wine competition by partner Cathay Pacific. and spirits competition in Asia.The 2010 edition hosted almost 700 This year judging takes place betweenexhibitors from 30 countries & regions. Alberto Antonini Italian oenologist and 12th October and 15th October 2011 withThe Australian Pavilion housed nearly 70 winery consultant, will take the role of the results announced at the Hong Kongcompanies. \"This is the only wine show guest VIP judge for 2011. International Wine & Spirits Fair (3-5ththe Australian government supports. November 2011).We take this opportunity to promote Taking over from UK wine criticour country and our 64 regions of wine Tim Atkin MW in 2010, Antonini will HKIWSC Managing Director, Allenproductions featuring many and varied join chair judges Debra Meiburg Gibbons comments: .. Hong Kong isstyles. It is great to see the growing MW (acclaimed wine journalist, TV proving to be the gateway into the Asianinterest in wine here. This show is very personality and one of Asia’s first wine and spirits market.impressive and our pavilion is full ofvisitors. We have also seen a lot ofmedia reports and publicity about theexhibition,\" said Phil Ingram, SeniorTrade Commissioner & Deputy Consul-General (Commercial), Australian TradeCommission, Australia.The fair welcomed over 14,000 tradebuyers, an increase of over 19%compared to the 2009 event. Mostsignificant increases were from theChinese mainland (+16%), Australia(+22%), USA(+23%) and Japan (+39%).HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRITS FAIR WEBSITE: www.hktdc.com/hkwinefairFor further information on participation in HK International Wine & Spirits Fair contactToni Wade of HKTDC Sydney Office at [email protected] or phone (02) 9261-8911. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 77

NEW RELEASES233 TASTED111 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESAn interesting tasting, with the chardonnays the pick of the whites and Conte Estate Pink SAUVIGNONstrongly suggesting that this variety needs to be revisited. For the reds, Hit McLaren Vale BLANCnot surprisingly, the ’09s and ’10s shone, but be careful of the ’08s. GewurztraminerSurprisingly, while the cabernet blends performed well, the shiraz blends 2010 HHH 15 TASTEDdidn’t! However, there were also some very good wines on offer. Lovely lifted, rose petal- 4 AWARDED like nose and generous,SPARKLING Patrick of sweet and spicy flavours. \"Wines for drinking, Coonawarra Crowd pleaser! $15 not thinking,\" suggested8 TASTED Reserve Selection one judge. The better4 AWARDED Coonawarra SAUVIGNON ones here had that Sparkling Shiraz BLANC extra dimension ofThere were too many NV HHH BLENDS varietal character.simple wines here Old style leathery/showing broad fruit licorice Aussie classic 5 TASTED Alta Adelaide Hillscharacters, and two with excellent age. Good 3 AWARDED Sauvignon Blancvastly different sparkling drinking now. $65 2011 HHH1/2reds on display. Some lovely quaffers Simple dry white with OTHER WHITE here - all from the passionfruit aromas and VARIETALS Margaret River region! flavours, a hint of pepper, & BLENDS balancing acidity and Credaro Family funky complexity. $19.95 12 TASTED Estate Margaret River 3 AWARDED Sauvignon Blanc Chalice Bridge Semillon 2011 HHH The Estate Margaret Sirromet Signature Disappointing, with the Excellent quaffer; fresh, River Sauvignon Collection Sparkling better wines showing herbaceous and spicy, Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Pinot Noir fresh fruit and lively acid. with good acid/sugar Lifted, punchy, Chardonnay balance. $20 gooseberry bouquet and 2008 HHHH Bremerton Langhorne good varietal fruit depth Nice creamy bubbly with Creek Verdelho MadFish Sideways on the sweet and softly delicate, toasty, soft 2011 HHH1/2 Margaret River textured palate. $19.95 peach nose and palate Elegant, spicy bouquet Sauvignon Blanc showing nice range with hints of honeydew Semillon 2011 HHH Patrick of of well-balanced and melon. Similar characters Perfumed, powdery nose Coonawarra Mother complex flavours. $30 echoed on quite a drying - very varietal. Same for of Pearl Sauvignon Blackbilly Sparkling palate. $18 the palate, with some Blanc 2011 HHH Shiraz NV HHH subtle oak. $22 Distinctive and Fresh plum bouquet and Churchview generous, with green youthful primary fruit Silverleaf Margaret Dunsborough Hills pea-like fruit, high acidity palate with good balance River Chenin Blanc Margaret River and spicy interest. $19 of sweetness. $18 2011 HHH Sauvignon Blanc Distinct pungent aromas Semillon 2010 HHH and excellent flavour Distinctive style - length on a very sweet, lovely lifted, green slightly oily, palate. $12.50 pea/gooseberry fruit pungency. $17.99Patrick of Peter SimicCoonawarra Mother Editor/publisher Winestateof Pearl Sparkling Magazine. More than 35 years’Coonawarra experience in the wine industry.Chardonnay Pinot Formerly founding publisher ofNV HHHH1/2 a US wine magazine, managerNice champagne yeast of the SA Wine Informationcharacters on the toasty Bureau, and wine educator withnose, some toasty Regency College of TAFE incomplexity on a palate SA. Peter is also a regular winewith excellent structure commentator on national radioand good depth of and television programs.yeasty flavours withbalancing acidity. $1978 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingJames Oatley Gibson Adelaide Hills Fraser Gallop Estate Chalice Bridge Jacob's CreekTic Tok Western Pinot Gris 2011 HHH Margarer River The Estate Margaret Reserve AdelaideAustralia Sauvignon Spicy, perfumed notes Semillon Sauvignon River Semillon Hills ChardonnayBlanc 2010 HHH on the nose and solid, Blanc 2011 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc 2008 HHHH1/2Smells like lemon pulp varietal, flavoursome, Pungent gooseberry 2010 HHH Rich aromas ofand has a bright and nicely textured palate. $18 aromas with a Fragrant, grassy, green butterscotch andspicy palate and fresh herbaceous lift, and bean nose and simple peaches with toasty ageacid structure. $17.99 Tomich Hill Family distinct varietal flavours but elegant palate; some characters developing. Reserve Adelaide of freshly cut grass. Will nice acidity. $19.95 Huge palate with lovelyPINOT Hills Pinot Gris age well. 3-5 $22 depth and richness ofGRIGIO/GRIS 2010 HHH flavours and marzipan- Distinct fresh quince like complexity. $18.999 TASTED aromas and nicely3 AWARDED textured palate with Robert Oatley plenty of flavour Wild Oats MudgeeThe judges were interest. $30 Chardonnaydisappointed with this 2010 HHHHgroup, finding too many RIESLING Lovely ripe, traditionalsimple, undefined peaches and creamstyles or wines with 4 TASTED nose with generousearly development. 2 AWARDED flavoursome palate showing well-defined A couple of floral elements and oak in worthwhile drinks. the background. $18.99Queen Adelaide Estate 807 Western Gossips Semillon Stephendale Barossa Belgravia The ApexSouth Eastern Australia Riesling Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Sauvignon Orange ChardonnayAustralia Pinot 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH Blanc 2010 HHH 2010 HHHHGrigio 2010 HHH Delicate lime/lemon Clean, grassy bouquet Long, fresh style Good lift of fresh vanillinSmells tropical and bouquet and long and and fresh, lively and packed with citrus fruit oak on the ripe fruit nose,has a soft, creamy nicely weighted fresh nicely textured melon/ characters showing a well-balanced citruspalate showing subtle citrus palate with citrus palate. $5.50 toasty oak edge. $10 palate and excellentstone-fruits and nice some musk lollies Sylvan Springs length and structure withacidity. $7.99 thrown in! $21.95 McLaren Vale CHARDONNAY drying oak tannins. $30 Semillon Sauvignon Alkoomi Blanc 2010 HHH 27 TASTED Frankland River Lively and intensely 17 AWARDED Riesling 2010 HHH flavoured dry white with Citrus nose with some some astringency. $12.99 Solid class with many kero development, different styles, from the and great citrus fruit complex, oak-aged to the expression on the crisp, fruit-driven ones. palate. $20.36 \"There are lovely textures coming through here SEMILLON that sauvignon blancs & BLENDS can only dream about!\" quipped one judge. 11 TASTED 5 AWARDED Mixed group, with the better wines offering good lunchtime quaffing! JUDGESStephen John Kevin Glastonbury Steve WarrickOwner/winemaker of Senior winemaker for Wine consultant. FormerlyStephen John Wines. Yalumba Wine Company. sales and marketing managerMore than 30 years’ More than 20 years’ for the Hamilton Wine Group.winemaking experience. experience in various 10 years’ experience workingHas judged at Adelaide, capacities in both small in McLaren Vale, CoonawarraNational, and Barossa Wine and large wineries in the and the Adelaide Hills. HasShows. Regular Winestate Barossa Valley. Former judged at the Adelaide,panellist and chairman of Winestate Australian McLaren Vale and Hobartjudges at the Winestate Winemaker of the Year. wine shows.Wine of the Year Awards. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 79

NEW RELEASES Sirromet Classic Morgan's Selection Unwooded Reserve Adelaide Chardonnay Hills Chardonnay 2011 HHH 2010 HHH Fleshy stone-fruit \"Shows class,\" said characters and good one judge. Lovely full, acid length. \"A definite developing aromas and crowd pleaser,\" said one flavours with excellent judge. $12.50 leesy complexity. $30 RockBare McLaren MadFish Vale Chardonnay Sideways Margaret 2010 HHH River Chardonnay Smells of green peaches 2010 HHH and has subtle, stylish, Ripe, fruit salad-like stone-fruit palate and varietal fruit, well- firm acid spine. $17.95 integrated oak and crisp acidity. Very Toolangi Ciavarella Oxley approachable. $22 Reserve Yarra Valley Estate Chardonnay Chardonnay 2010 HHH ROSE 2007 HHHH Big, oak-driven style Lovely flinty/lemon drop with some excellent 8 TASTED bouquet, some excellent green peach-like fruit 1 AWARDED toasty oak characters and underneath. $19 nicely developed array of As is usual with this style, hazelnut oak and sweet Alkoomi Frankland the colours seduce but peach flavours. $70 River Chardonnay the wines are let down by Highland Heritage 2010 HHH their aromas and flavours. Estate Chardonnay Peppery/eucalypt fruit \"A lot of confused wines 2010 HHH1/2 with good oak presence, or confused winemakers,\" Sweet peachy/lemon and nicely textured suggested one judge. fragrances and nicely palate. $22.34 balanced fruit palate with Anvers Adelaide zippy acidity and a long, Credaro Family Hills Rosé 2011 HHH lingering finish. $20 Estate Margaret Pretty floral nose and Clown Fish Margaret River Chardonnay spicy strawberry palate River Chardonnay 2010 HHH that's fresh and dry. $15 2010 HHH1/2 Oak dominant on the Cool-climate style with nose - quite butterscotch- PINOT NOIR wild, funky complexity, like - and a mouthful of green melon fruit and a big, ripe fruit flavours. $35 11 TASTED lingering, cleansing acid 5 AWARDED finish. $22.50 Rosenvale Forest Hill Vineyard Home Grown Another mixed bag. Southern Western Barossa Chardonnay \"Pinots should not be Australia Chardonnay 2009 HHH a full-bodied dry red,\" 2010 HHH1/2 Bit of an old-fashioned said one judge. \"Pinot Lively and lifted array of Aussie style, offering a is about flavour and tropical fruit characters mouthful of sweet fruit texture - not colour, on nose and palate, with and oak. weight and extraction.\" oaky complexity and 3-5 $16 alert acidity. $30 Nepenthe Pinnacle Bethany - The Good Doctor Barossa Chardonnay Adelaide Hills Pinot 2009 HHH Noir 2009 HHH1/2 Excellent retention of Excellent ripe varietal varietal fruit intensity fruit seamlessly supported by subtle oak integrated with oak and and citrusy acid. $20 drying tannins. Still very fresh. $35 Balgownie Estate Black Label Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2009 HHH Elegant wine with pristine peach fruit and raw oak characters. Just needs time. $2480 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting d'Arenberg Rosenvale Estate Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay The Cadenzia Barossa Grenache Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay S McLaren Vale 2010 HHH Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Sh Grenache Shiraz Well-integrated Shiraz CCHaAbReDrOnNNeAtYMerlot Chardonnay Shiraz Mourvedre 2009 HHH confectionery fruit Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Big, sweet, earthy bouquet and soft, Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shira aromas and alert savoury palate. Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shir sweet/sour flavours Very flavoursome. $24 Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot SHCIRhAZardonnay Shira with some oak. $25 Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot ChardonnaNazaaray Vertice Apalta Morgan Simpson ChaCArdBEoRnNEnTaMyERLOTCabernet Merlot Chardonnay ShirazMornington Vineyards Plan B McLaren Vale Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot ChardonnPeninsula Pinot Noir Colchagua Valley Mataro 2010 HHH ChardonnayBlanc Semillon Shiraz2009 HHH1/2 Chile Carmenère Lifted blueberry aromas Chardonnay Cabernet MerlotSAUVIGNON BLANC ChardonnayStone-fruit aromas with Shiraz 2005 HHH and lovely soft and SEMILONherbal edge, and lively, Mature chocolaty/ simple, fruit-driven Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Sspicy palate with good nutty bouquet and palate. $18 Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shvarietal expression. soft, developed palate. Shiraz Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay ShirazDrying on the finish. $30 At its peak. $33 d'Arenberg Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay The CustodianQuarram Rocks Falernia Reserva McLaren Vale ChardonnayBlanc Semillon ShirazGreat Southern Elqui Valley Chile Grenache 2009 HHH Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot ChardonnayWestern Australia Carmenere Syrah Good spicy depth to thePinot Noir 2010 HHH 2007 HHH nose, and confectionery- Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay ShiraFresh, lifted strawberry Sweet, generous sweet fruit on the Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shirazbouquet and lighter, wine with powerful palate. $18spicy palate with some blackberry/licorice-like Shiraz Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shirazvanillin oak. $14 fruit and sweet, spicy Morris Rutherglen Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay S oak. $14.95 Durif 2007 HHH Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay ShirazLost Lake Barrel Purple wine with an Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay ShirazSelection Pinot Noir OTHER RED intensely inky nose and Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shiraz2009 HHH VARIETALS a big hit of dense, ripe Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot ChardonnayNice integration of fruit flavours. $58rhubarb and cherry-like 10 TASTED Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shirazvarietal fruit characters. 5 AWARDED CABERNET Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot ChardonnayStarting to develop. $35 The durif and grenache BLENDS wines stood out here. ChardonnayBlanc Semillon ShirazLethbridge Mietta 13 TASTED Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot ChardonnayGeelong Pinot Noir 8 AWARDED2008 HHH Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay ShiraStylish wine developing Excellent class! The best Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shiraznicely with ripe berry wines from the 2009 andfruits and toasty oak. $65 2010 vintages showed Shiraz Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shiraz great intensity and offer Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay SOTHER good cellaring potential. Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay ShirazRED BLENDS Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shiraz Fraser Gallop Estate Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shiraz6 TASTED Margaret River Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay3 AWARDED Cabernet Merlot 2010 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shiraz Light berry aromas with Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay just a hint of spearmint. Great palate structure ChardonnayBlanc Semillon Shiraz with youthful cassis Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay flavours, good level of acidity and some nice Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shira drying tannins. $22 Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay ShirazToo hard to call! Lots of Deen De Bortoli Vat 1 Shiraz Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Shirazdifferent varieties and Durif 2009 HHH1/2 Shiraz Chardonnay Cabernet Merlot Chardonnay Sstyles - some local and Dense, inky andoverseas diversity. unyielding nose with hints of spices and rose petals. Big, rich palate with soft Ph: +618 9750 3100 berry flavours. $12.90 www.wisewine.com.au 75426 acorndesign.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 81

NEW RELEASES Buller Wines Langdon Munari King Valley Cabernet India Red Heathcote Merlot Petit Verdot Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH 2008 HHHH Slight smokiness to Stylish wine with good the toasty nose, and definition of blackcurrant vibrant, well-retained aromas and elegant, fresh, varietal fruit on the cassis varietal palate palate. 3-5 $49.95 with hints of violets and excellent oak balance. $30 Munari Schoolhouse Red Heathcote Cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot 2008 HHH Complex, meaty bouquet and nice integration of fruit, oak, acid and tannins on the palate. $30Anvers South Credaro Family Stuart Wines CABERNETAustralia Brabo Estate Margaret Whitebox Yarra SAUVIGNONCabernet Sauvignon River Cabernet Valley CabernetShiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 Merlot 2010 HHHH Merlot 2008 HHH 24 TASTEDIntense purple colour Nose of stone-fruits and Complex, mature and 10 AWARDEDwith youthful herbaceous/ violets with an essence- chocolaty aromas andcassis varietal fruit like lift. Medium-weight a rich, warm fruit cake \"More attention to detailnose and young, palate has good depth of palate. Drink now! $19.95 needed with this variety,\"soft palate offering a varietal fruit with a light Sanguine Estate suggested one judge.mouthful of rich oak with oak finish. 3-5 $24 Heathcote Cabernet \"Cabernet does not haveblackberries underneath. Sauvignon Cabernet to be brown in colour.\"Needs time. $12 Fernfield Wines Franc Petit Verdot The '08s, with some Fernfield Wines Eden Valley 2009 HHH exceptions, continue to Triple C Eden Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Big, soft and very show overripe dead fruit Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet flavoursome style with characters, while the '09s 2009 HHHH Franc 2009 HHHH generous varietal fruit and are growing in interest. Deep, brooding, balancing oak. $24.95 redcurrant nose with Dense, concentrated and generous sweet berry beautifully layered wine fruit palate showing with loads of dusty oak some nice oak and firm, and plenty of pristine grippy tannins. $15 sweet varietal fruit to match. 5+ $15SIMON HACKETTFourth generation, Barossa Valley born, TRADE ENQUIRIES:Winemaker Simon Hackett established his winery S.A. Chace Agencies 08 8363 7881 [email protected] a fertile hill overlooking McLaren Vale over VIC Working Wine 0407 053 663 [email protected] years ago. Simon Hackett produces a stunning NSW Estate Wine Distributors [email protected] of wines including the very popular limited QLD Estate Wine Distributors 0405 106 207 [email protected] Anthony's Reserve Shiraz and Foggo UK & Europe - ABS Wine Agencies [email protected] Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Drop into Hong Kong - Vins de France Corp (ABS Asia Ltd) [email protected] cellar door for a tasting and take in the Simon Hackett Wines, Budgens Road, McLaren Valestunning panoramic views. (08) 8323 7712 [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingMitchelton Credaro FamilyCentral Victoria Estate MargaretCabernet Sauvignon River Cabernet2009 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2009 HHHRich style with dense, Solid charry oak,plummy fruit and lovely simple cabernet fruit,oak sweetness in the high acid and softmiddle. Plenty of life tannins. 5+ $40ahead of it. 3-5 $20 Alkoomi FranklandHoggies Estate River Cabernet 2010 PINOT GRIGIOVictoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHSauvignon 2009 HHH Juicy, soft quaffer withBright, varietal aromas light, herbaceous varietalwith cassis overtones, and fruit and subtle use oflight palate with simple oak. $22.34cassis flavours. $9.95 Thompson EstateGreat Stone Wines Margaret RiverCoonawarra Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH2009 HHH Toasty, dark plumLean, herbaceous aromas and rich, soft,blackberry nose with matured, chocolatysimilar palate and chewy flavours. $40oak finish. 3-5 $17Sylvan Springs Bell SHIRAZRoad McLaren Vale BLENDSCabernet Sauvignon2009 HHH 14 TASTEDStylish young wine with 5 AWARDEDvery ripe berry fruit, charryoak and lots of acid. Akeeper. 5+ $19.99 The judges were \"underwhelmed\" by this group. Too many wines showed green, tart fruit at one end of the spectrum and cooked, overripe fruit at the other end. And a few 'worthies' in the middle. Pyren Vineyard Studio Ink Shiraz Cabernet 2009 HHH1/2 Classic 'Aussie' blend with lovely fresh, honest, clean fruit and spicy oak aromas and flavours. $30Barristers Block Alkoomi FranklandWrattonbully River ShirazCabernet Sauvignon Viognier 2009 HHH2009 HHH Viognier dominatesNice depth of cool-climate the blend, giving wildvarietal fruit, charry oak apricot fragrances andand a firm finish. $30 a pretty, perfumed fruit palate. $20.36 TOP 40 BEST BUYS - UNDER $20 - Pears and citrus on the nose and a sweet, flavoursome palate. Crowd Pleaser. WINESTATE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2011 EDITION. VOKT10354 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 83

NEW RELEASES Mitchelton Crescent Central Victoria84 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER Shiraz Mourvedre Grenache 2009 HHH Very elegant, confectionery style with fragrant aromas and sweet cherry berry flavours. 5+ $26 d'Arenberg Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier 2009 HHH Earthy aromas and full- flavoured, spicy/peppery palate with nice tannin presence. $29 Chalice Bridge Fernfield Wines The Quest Margaret Footstompers River Shiraz Eden Valley Shiraz Cabernet 2008 HHH 2009 HHHHH Nicely retained cassis fruit Stylish wine with great characters - very intense, colour, sweet berry and with charry oak adding plum fruit aromas and complexity. $25.95 intense blackcurrant fruit- like flavours balanced with SHIRAZ drying oak and a warming 2010 - 2009 alcohol finish. $30 32 TASTED 21 AWARDED Very strong class, with lovely fruit expression without being jammy, and nicely controlled use of oak. The few wines entered from the 2010 vintage show we have a lot to look forward to. Sanguine Estate Estate Heathcote Shiraz 2009 HHHHH Wild cherries mingle with complex barrel ferment characters on the nose and an intensely flavoured palate tasting of chocolate and strawberry jam. Has great texture, depth and balance. $39.95 Stephen John Dry Grown Clare Valley Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Impenetrable purple colour, dense, super-ripe fruit nose and long, warm palate with lovely rich, ripe, fruit cake flavours well integrated with fresh oak. A keeper. 5+ $25



NEW RELEASES Mitchelton Balgownie Estate Alkoomi SHIRAZ Central Victoria Black Label Bendigo Frankland River 2008 & OLDER Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHH Shy, dark fruit nose with Earthy fruit bouquet and Developing nutty/ 19 TASTED fresh oak balance, and lovely rich, Christmas spicy/plum aromas and 9 AWARDED elegant, finely structured, cake-flavoured palate simple, peppery, fruit berry palate underscored with texture, complexity palate. 3-5 $15.89 \"With wines from with some powdery and interest. Has years the '08 vintage it's tannins. 5+ $20 ahead of it. 5+ $24 Great Stone Wines generally a high rating Coonawarra Shiraz or nothing,\" said one 2009 HHH judge. \"Depending Big, tarry nose and on whether the fruit huge, oaky palate. Well- was picked before the balanced and with great heatwave or during.\" flavour depth. $17 Mojo Barossa Shiraz 2009 HHH Ripe, jammy nose, lovely spicy oak, attractive medium- bodied palate and spicy berry flavours. $17.95St Hallet ChurchviewBlackwell Barossa Margaret RiverShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHHLovely big wine with Minted fruit aromas andintense dark cherry elegant cool-climate fruitbouquet matched with intensity on the tightsome lively oak. Lovely palate. 3-5 $18.50varietal fruit expressionon palate, with oak Sylvan Springs Hard Credaro Family St Halletadding complexity. $35 Yards McLaren Vale Estate Margaret River Faith Barossa ShirazKirrihill Tullymore Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 2009 HHHVineyard Clare Valley Huge, flavoursome wine Vibrant purple wine with Massive, jammy shirazShiraz 2009 HHHH with inky, perfumed youthful minty, green with fresh, lifted aromasStewed, sweet, stone- fragrances and intense plum nose and tight palate and nicely weightedfruit bouquet and nicely varietal fruit characters on palate. $19retained varietal fruit the big palate; some oakflavours - still fresh, with behind. Drink now. $14.99 with excellent tannins and Pyren Vineyardgood depth and length toasty oak. 5+ $35 Broken Quartzof oak in support. $19.99 Pyrenees Shiraz Fernfield Wines 2009 HHH Gisa Ellipse Barossa Pridmore Eden Valley Smells like a Cherry Ripe Shiraz 2008 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 bar and has a similar Very powerful shiraz with Pretty, modern style chocolaty palate showing intense, cool-climate- wine with super-fragrant firm tannins. $20 like, spicy, green fruit aromas and silky-smooth characters and some raspberry and cherry excellent oak to match. palate. $20 Reillys Dry Land A keeper. 5+ $35 Clare Valley Shiraz STAR RATINGS  Pepperwood Estate 2009 HHH Gumpara Victor's Shiraz Jazz Capel Deep, earthy fruit Old Vine BarossaThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Western Australia aromas and silky-smooth Shiraz 2008 HHHHexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Shiraz 2010 HHH palate with persistent, Dark, briary fruit nose withAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Youthful red berry/fresh jammy fruit flavours. $21 aromas reminiscent ofprofessionals and are compared in peer oak nose, tight palate, scorched earth characters.classes by three judges. spicy flavours and firm Kirrihill Clare Valley Lovely full-bodied, oakyCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, tannins. $15 Shiraz 2009 HHH palate with nice range ofa major mail-order business. Nice soft, simple quaffer flavours. $25CD Cellar door price. with intense dark cherryCDO Cellar door only. Barristers Block fruit and a background of Glendalough EstateSO Sold out. The Bully Barossa dusty oak. $13.50 Governor's Pleasure$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Wrattonbully Shiraz Clare Valley Shiraz 2010 HHH Munari Ladys Pass 2008 HHHH Contact information pg 160. Fruit-driven nose and Heathcote Shiraz Restrained but supple palate showing 2009 HHH concentrated ripe RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). gentle fruit sweetness. Some lovely spicy, cool- cherry aromas and Drink soon! $35 climate fruit here - very beautifully constructed, elegant, with a subtle slightly warm, palate hint of oak. $45 with lovely varietal fruit expression. $2286 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingGumpara SWEET &Reserve Barossa FORTIFIEDShiraz 2008 HHHHReserved nose, some 5 TASTEDdark fruit and mealy 3 AWARDEDoak aromas. Intenselyflavoured, fruit-driven The highlights here werepalate that's soft, rich an excellent botrytisand warm. One for the wine and a great Cognac.cellar. $32.50 Pierre SeguinotGod's Hill & Fils GrandMenzel Barossa Champagne FranceShiraz 2008 HHHH Cognac HHHH1/2Huge, flavoursome style Beautiful clean spirit liftwith well-integrated ripe to the nose and lovelyplum and oak aromas depth of aged Cognacwhich are echoed on spirit flavours reminiscentthe lovely long, creamy of fish oil and cold tea,palate. 3-5 $43 with lovely fresh oak and a long, smooth and cleanSanguine Estate finish. $320D'Orsa HeathcoteShiraz 2008 HHHHFruit-driven shiraz witha pleasant Cherry Ripenose and intenselyflavoured blackberry fruitpalate with a warmingalcoholic end. $59.95Gisa Round BarossaShiraz 2008 HHH1/2Fragrant earthy/spicyfruit aromas andflavoursome, fruitypalate with creamytexture and good acidlength. 3-5 $18TahbilkNagambie LakesShiraz 2008 HHH1/2Earthy/tarry nose andvibrant, fruit-driven palate.Nice length and lovelycreamy texture with along, soft finish. $23Hoggies Estate Reschke Late Innovative and Inspired WinesVictoria Shiraz Picked Botrytis from De Bortoli Family Estates2008 HHH Sauvignon BlancVelvety-soft wine 2010 (375ml) HHHH BellaRiva is inspired by the place where our King Valleywith stylish, cool- Graves style of wine vineyards meet the King River. The wines were created to blendclimate varietal fruit, with lovely clean botrytis/ and balance the modern Italian varieties that flourish in thesedrying oak and tarry dried apricot bouquet soils.complexity. $9.95 and long, lusciously rich BellaRiva wines proudly bear the De Bortoli stamp of sweet palate. Crowd innovation in winemaking and regionality in viticulture. The pleaser. $25 result is two stunning wines that celebrate the King Valley. Styled to be textural, interesting, captivating and above all Ciavarella Oxley delicious, our Vermentino Pinot Grigio 2010 is light, dry and Estate Fortified faintly aromatic, whilst our Sangiovese Merlot 2009 is bright, Durif 2009 HHH rustic and savoury. Super-concentrated ripe Vibrant and authentic, proud and passionate, the hidden fruit aromas and well- secrets of BellaRiva King Valley are best discovered in the balanced, sweet licorice company of good food, good friends and good conversation palate. Drink now. $22 - the essence of Italy (and the King Valley). Discover BellaRiva King Valley at bellariva.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 87

WINE EXPERTS FLOAT THEIR VIEWS ABOUT WINE SHIELD.HBT/WPR081/W/DPS

Wine Shield keeps wine fresh by dramatically slowing the oxidation process that spoils opened wine. Because taste and aroma is retained, wine experts are among its biggest fans. “I’ve trialed Wine Shield on many Riesling’s, Pinot Noir’s and Grenache’s, varieties that traditionally oxidizes very easily. I found I could keep bottles opened for 5 to 8 days without any loss of fruit purity or palate structure. I even tested Wine Shield over 45 days on a bottle of California Syrah and the wine barely budged over the journey. Before I was pouring many bottles out and that was a real waste. We are even using them in our tasting room in Burgundy, France and the results have been amazing. We have seen an immediate lift in sales as we are able to taste our Premier and Grand Cru wines on a regular basis, which was previously not possible. It’s a truly brilliant invention that adds value to every bottle you open”. Michael Twelftree Proprietor, Two Hands Wines, South Australia. “We always have about 14 wines available by the glass. Because Wine Shield is a single use device, it appealed to me. I know with gas you can’t be sure if it’s even been done. Wine Shield is such a simple solution and it works. Once it becomes part of your practise, wastage becomes virtually nil”. Anthony Jones Founder of The Deanery Restaurant and Wine Bar, Melbourne. “Wine Shield sits like a little seal on the top of your wine. It’s actually better, believe it or not, than the air preservation systems – whether it’s the sparging systems or the vacuum type systems. It costs about 25 cents per unit, but it will literally hold the wine brilliantly for about 4-5 days without any change whatsoever. I highly advocate it. If it’s an expensive bottle of wine, it keeps it better, integrity-wise than anything I’ve worked with.”. Emily Wines Master Sommelier, Wine Director Kimpton Hotels, San Francisco.www.wineshield.comOrder from our distributors or direct, visit our website and keep your wine tasting fresh – right to the last glass.

TOP 40Patrick of Stephendale Barossa Peter Lehmann Sirromet ClassicCoonawarra Mother Semillon Sauvignon Barossa Selection Unwoodedof Pearl Sparkling Blanc 2010 Semillon 2010 Chardonnay 2011Coonawarra Long fresh style Closed minerally nose Fleshy stone-fruitChardonnay Pinot NV packed with citrus fruit with just a whiff of characters and goodNice champagne yeast characters showing a lemon grass. Good palate acid length. \"A definitecharacters on the toasty toasty oak edge. $10 structure and nice fruit crowd pleaser,\" saidnose, some toasty weight and texture. $12 one judge. $12.50complexity on a palatewith excellent structureand good depth ofyeasty flavours withbalancing acidity. $19THE TOP 40 BEST BUYS LISTING TO QUALIFYis updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are 1 Wines must have first been recommended instill available - remain in the next issue’s Top 40 Best Buys group. Others will sell Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings. Styleout, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. Price is a major factor in selection. tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg, shiraz,The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Top 40 Best Buys listing comprises the best wines chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as shiraz/currently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ cabernet wines.from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Top 40Best Buys listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that 2 Wines from designated regional tastings arewould otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. eligible provided they are widely available.HOW IT WORKS 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in many liquor stores.In each issue Winestate’s publisher Peter Simic selects the highest-rated winesat specific price points. All wines have previously been judged for Winestate by 4 No cellar door-only wines are eligible.panels of expert judges.90 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Robert Oatley Jacob's Creek Leopardwood Yenda Trentham Estate Shot in the DarkWild Oats Mudgee Reserve Petit Verdot 2009 Merlot 2009 Cabernet Shiraz 2010Chardonnay 2010 Adelaide Hills Stylish well-made wine Elegant style with Vibrant rich and well-Lovely ripe traditional Chardonnay 2008 with attractive fruit nice vibrant berry aromas and made wine with leafypeaches and cream Rich aromas of spiciness and great up-front fruit flavours berry fruits rich tanninsnose with generous butterscotch and complexity. $18 with chocolaty elements good oak and attractiveflavoursome palate peaches with toasty age and some spice. $16 minty charactersshowing well-defined characters developing. threaded through. $9.99floral elements and oak in Huge palate with lovelythe background. $18.99 depth and richness of flavours and marzipan- like complexity. $18.99OTHER WHITE WINES Berton Vineyard The White Viognier 2010 best buys Toasty aromas mingling with citrusy elements andDeakin Estate Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV a full-bodied palate with some very nice varietal 20less thanAttractive aged honeyed aromas followed by a complex richness. $12.99savoury palate with a lovely toasty flavour profile. $10 $ Eldredge Clare Valley Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010Bremerton Langhorne Creek Verdelho 2011 Citrus zest bouquet with a minerally edge andElegant spicy bouquet with hints of honeydew melon. grapefruit-like flavours on a well-balanced roundedSimilar characters echoed on quite a drying palate. $18 palate. Good food wine. $17Salena Estate Ink Series Bianco D'Alessano 2010 Sylvan Springs McLaren Vale SemillonNose of green olive tapenade with similar characters Sauvignon Blanc 2010on the palate mixing with herbal/grassy characters. Lively and intensely flavoured dry white with someInteresting! $14.99 astringency. $12.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 91

TOP 40 Hoggies Estate Anvers Brabo Quarisa Johnny Q Churchview Victoria Cabernet South Australia South Australia Margaret River Sauvignon 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Viognier 2009 Shiraz 2009 Velvety-soft wine with Shiraz 2010 Complex chocolaty Vibrant mouthfilling stylish cool-climate varietal Intense purple bouquet with plum dry red style with lifted fruit drying oak and tarry colour with youthful cake-like nuances. spicy vanillin oak and complexity. $9.95 herbaceous/cassis Great palate with nice lovely fresh blackcurrant varietal fruit nose and up-front fruit flavours and rhubarb-like fruit young soft palate and attractive chocolaty with a nice dash of offering a mouthful finish. $11.99 pepper. $18.50 of rich oak with blackberries underneath. Needs time. $12TOP 40Willow Bridge Water Dancer Western Australia McGuigan Bin Series Hunter Valley Semillon 2011 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Lightweight with gentle grassy/floral nose and Delicate pale green colour with light floral bouquet. palate. Tropical notes and fresh acidity. $12 The palate has quite a lean structure with low-key Beelgara Light NSW Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Sweet lemon nose with nice zestiness. Good citrusy (for now) but long persistent flavour profile showing varietal flavours with slatey acidity and a crisp acid finish. $14.95 excellent potential for ageing. 5+ $12.99 De Bortoli Sacred Hill Traminer Riesling 2010 Chateau Tanunda The Chateau Barossa Old Vine Perfumed floral bouquet and very flavoursome Semillon 2010 candy-sweet palate with rose oil-like characters. Great Full-flavoured semillon with a flinty/lemon grass example of this blend. $7.50 nose and quite a lovely rich lemon palate with grassy/spicy layers and some oak evident supported by a lovely minerally acid backbone. $18 Tyrrell's Wines Lost Block Hunter Valley Semillon 2010 Quite developed for a one-year-old but has a nice line of citrusy flavours with minerally acidity balancing some phenolics. $18.9992 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Flint's of Coonawarra Fox Creek Red Kirrihill Tullymore Madeleines Nangkita Pepperwood EstateRostrevor Baron McLaren Vale Vineyard Clare Single Vineyard Shiraz Jazz CapelCoonawarra Shiraz 2010 Valley Shiraz 2009 Fleurieu Peninsula Western AustraliaShiraz 2008 Very young vibrant Lovely nose - smells like Shiraz 2008 Shiraz 2010Bold complex oak-driven wine with a very oaky Black Forest cake with Great drinking! Complex Youthful red berry/freshshiraz - very chocolaty nose showing a minty/ some earthy elements. and perfectly structured oak nose tight palatewith heaps of excellent spicy lift. The palate Rich and intense palate wine with a wonderful lift spicy flavours and firmvarietal fruit to match is full-bodied with a with lovely berry fruits of toasty coconut oak on tannins. $15and complemented by complexity of inky well-managed oak and the nose and a firm boldperfect spicy nuances. chocolaty flavours firm tannins. $19 palate rich with intenseGreat wine! $18 layered with oak. $17.50 fruit cake-like flavours and loads of oak. $19.90McWilliam's Elizabeth Mount Pleasant Semillon 2010 Rosedale Wines Chook Shed Barossa Shiraz 2009 best buysZesty citrus fruit bouquet with some slight waxy- Sweet fruit nose with a hint of oak and lots of berrylike notes. Very tight palate with lovely green lime fruits on the soft sweet palate. $12 20less thanflavours and slightly hard acidity. $17.95 M. Chapoutier Domaine Tournon Heathcote $Banrock Station Semillon Chardonnay 2010 Shiraz 2009Nose already developing toasty notes. Great flavour Lovely purple hues with some herbal/green oliveprofile - quite pungent and developed. $9 notes on the nose. Palate solid with flavours of spices and blackberries. Firm tannins. $16.90OTHER RED WINES Cock + Bull Estate Grown South Australia Shiraz 2010Psyche Smuggler Carmenère 2010 Well-balanced fruit-driven style with nice spicinessAromatic violet/blueberry bouquet and velvety- and the chewy chocolaty tannins adding structuresoft palate with complex flavours and oak adding and length. $6.90sweetness and spice. $12.49 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 93

TOP 40 Mojo by RockBare Terramore Willoughby Park Zonte's Footstep Barossa Shiraz 2009 Coonawarra Jamie & Charli Baron Von Nemesis Warm inviting young Shiraz 2009 Denmark Western Barossa Shiraz 2009 wine full of licorice Young bold wine with Australia Shiraz 2010 Attractive juicy shiraz tar and black olive a deep rich red/purple Simple dry red with starting to show some characters. Great colour and loaded with aromas of vanilla and development with big tannins. Just needs mulberries blackcurrants butterscotch and bold fruit flavours and some time. $17.95 and rhubarb characters generous fruit nicely integrated tannins. which are balanced by flavours. $16 Very more-ish! $19.95 some solid oak. $19 Issue 119 | September/October 2011Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care isPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] taken in compiling the contents of this publication, butManaging Editor the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects Printing DAI Rubicon arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.distalliance.comAdministrationVicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. WINESTATE is published seven times a year by Telephone (08) 8357 9277Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Facsimile (08) 8357 9212Marketing Manager 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. E-mail [email protected] Copyright 2011 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. Website www.winestate.com.auPeter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied,Tasting Coordinator photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to anyStephen Dean E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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iv Generations The Credaro Family first settled in Margaret River in 1922, fromNorthern Italy. Crafting wines of great quality and integrity amidst a location of beauty and four generations of family tradition. Best Shiraz Trophy, 2010 Qantas Wine Show of Western Australia • Champion Dry White Blend Trophy, 2010 National Cool Climate Wine Show • 5 Star Winestate Magazine 6635 BUSSELL HIGHWAY, CARBUNUP, WA 6280 TEL (08) 9755 1111 | FAX (08) 9755 1011 WWW.CREDAROWINES.COM.AU

WORLD FINE WINE AUCTION PRICESWine Producer Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage Vintage 2009 2005 2003 2000 1996 1990 1982France, Bordeaux 22000 16,900 19,700 20,000 14000 13,300 35000Chateau Latour 24000 21500 22000 39000 24000 18000 79800Chateau Lafite Rothschild 13200 10300 7600 18400 8700 6000 24000Chateau Mouton RothschildChateau Haut Brion 13400 11000 6600 12500 6900 11600 12700Chateau MargauxChateau La Mission Haut Brion 15000 - 14800 11400 16500 12000 - 14500 16200Chateau Cheval Blanc 10900Chateau Petrus 10100 8100 - 3100 14600-- 2900 6300 16900Chateau Ausone 66700 -Chateau Leoville Barton 13700 10800 5700 6000 - 16800 14600Chateau Leoville Las CasesChateau Pichon Comtesse de Lalande 52000 57400 30500 22200 61000 - 82600 -Chateau Cos d'EstournelChateau Brane-Cantenac 20200 29900 21200 28200 8050 7600 7200Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 1900Chateau Palmer 1500 - 1400 - 1500 4500 1300 - 2100 3000 -Le Pin 3500Chateau d’Yquem 4200 - 4500 - 2400 4100 - 4800 - 8200France, Burgundy 2400 - 1600 - 2000 3000 1800 - 9000DRC Romanee ContiDomaine de la Romanee Conti La Tache 4400 3000 - 3300 2300 2100 3200 - 5300 -Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin -Domaine Leroy Chambertin 850 - 850 - 750 1000 - 850 - 1100 - 1250France, Rhone 3100 - 2800 - 2200 - 2700 - 2600 1850 5500Beaucastel Hommage à Jacques PerrinChateau Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape 3700 4300 - 2100 4300 - 2300 - 3600 3600Chave HermitageGuigal La Landonne Cote Rotie 32200 38100 NA 56000 21000 - 36700 61200Guigal La Mouline Cote Rotie 9200 7100Guigal La Turque Cote Rotie 3300 5500 - 3000 5700 NAFrance, Champagne 2009 2005 2002 1999 1990Salon Cuvee ‘S’Krug Clos du Mesnil NA 158500 75200 57000 35700Dom Perignon Oenotheque NA 55300 - 29000 50000 - 70000 -Italy, PiedmontGaja Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo NA 13000 10000 12500 - 17000 -Italy, Tuscany NA 33000 16800 - 29000 - 11100 -Ornellaia MassetoMacchiole 2009 2007 2005 2001 1990 NA 7500 4750 5300 12900 NA NA 6500 3600 - NA NA 2000 2300 - 2000 - 9500 NA 4300 6000 - 3800 - 12000 NA 3400 5000 4200 - 12000 NA 4000 - 6000 3700 12000 2002 1998 1996 1995 1990 NA NA NA 11300 2800 - 3500 5400 NA NA 13600 10500 13500 - 4300 - 4200 - 3000 - 2006 2004 2003 1997 1990 5700 - 6500 - 4900 5700 - 2400 2006 2004 2003 1997 1990 NA 8800 - 7300 6000 9000 NA 3600 6000 - 2400 - NAPrices are in USD for 12 x 750ml. United Cellars Fine Wine Auction Prices are not intended to predict future results of wine auction prices. Wine prices, andprices obtained at auction, can vary. Past performance is not indicative of future results. NA Not Available up down - steady Australia and New Zealand’s leading wine Merchant Specialising in boutique, fine and rare wines www.unitedcellars.com.au | email: [email protected] | tel: 1300 5UNITED | sms : 0402 767 929

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN CLONAKILLA 2002 $140 MOUNT MARY 2001 $370 THREE RIVERS/ WINES Shiraz Viognier 2004 $190 Quintet 2002 $450 Chris Ringland 1990 $65 2005 $140 2003 $400 Wines Shiraz BASS PHILLIP 1993 $65 2006 $120 1990 $260 2004 $480 1990 $850Premium Pinot Noir 1994 $85 2007 Not Released 1991 $120 2005 $550 1991 $700 1995 $65 2008 $110 1992 $110 1992 $650 1990 $80 1996 $100 Armagh Shiraz 1993 $130 Bin 707 1993 $750 1991 $100 1997 $130 Meshach 1990 $220 1994 $120 1980 $150 1994 $650 1992 $120 1998 $150 1990 $110 1991 $180 1995 $100 1981 Not Released 1995 $500 1993 $100 1999 $55 1991 $85 1992 $120 1996 $160 1982 $150 1996 $900 1994 $120 2000 $90 1992 $80 1993 $110 1997 $110 1983 $150 1997 Not Released 1995 $95 2001 $130 1993 $75 1994 $130 1998 $180 1984 $150 1998 $900 1996 $115 2002 $120 1994 $90 1995 $130 1999 $120 1985 $150 1999 $600 1997 $180 2003 $110 1995 $85 1996 $160 2000 $160 1986 $200 2000 $450 1998 $110 2004 $120 1996 $100 1997 $150 2001 $120 1987 $140 2001 $850 1999 $140 2005 $120 1997 Not Released 1998 $220 2002 $130 1988 $160 2002 $800 2000 $110 2006 $100 1998 $130 1999 $130 2003 $130 1989 $150 2003 $500 2001 $100 2007 $150 1999 $85 2000 $120 2004 $140 1990 $220 2002 $145 2008 $120 2000 $70 2001 $140 2005 $140 1991 $160 Shiraz 2003 $110 2001 $110 2002 $200 2006 $120 1992 $160 1990 $145 2004 $120 Cabernet Merlot 2002 $95 2004 $145 1993 $160 1991 $130 2005 $80 1990 $95 2003 $65 2005 $120 Bin 95 Grange 1994 $180 1992 $80 2007 $90 1991 $100 2004 $75 2006 $120 1951 $43,000 1995 Not Released 1993 $90 2008 $95 1992 $80 2005 $70 1952 $17,000 1996 $200 1994 $160 1993 $85 GREENOCK CREEK Chardonnay 1953 $13,000 1997 $160 1995 $95 BINDI 1994 $90 Art Series 1954 $10,000 1998 $220 1996 $160 Block 5 Pinot Noir 1995 $95 Roennfeldt Rd 1955 $3,600 1999 $170 1997 $90 1997 $80 1996 $100 Shiraz 1990 $60 1956 $12,000 2000 Not Released 1998 $160 1998 $95 1997 $90 1991 $70 1957 $11,000 2001 $150 1999 $100 1999 Not Released 1998 $95 1995 $370 1992 $75 1958 $4,800 2002 $180 2000 $90 2000 $150 1999 $95 1996 $300 1993 $65 1959 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2001 $95 2001 $120 2000 $85 1997 $190 1994 $85 1960 $1,400 2004 $190 2002 $150 2002 $110 2001 $80 1998 $350 1995 $120 1961 $1,200 2005 $170 2003 $80 2003 $85 2002 Not Released 1999 $180 1996 $65 1962 $1,100 2006 $160 2004 $150 2004 $140 2003 $75 2000 $220 1997 $100 1963 $1,000 2007 $160 2005 $130 2005 $120 2004 $70 2001 $240 1998 $70 1964 $1,000 2006 $130 2006 $110 2002 $400 1999 $85 1965 $500 Bin 60A 2007 $140 2007 $110 ELDERTON 2003 $200 2000 $75 1966 $600 1962 $3,500 2008 $110 Command Shiraz 2004 $350 2001 $90 1967 $700 2004 $460 1990 $120 2002 $85 1968 $550 BROKENWOOD 1991 Not Released Hill of Grace 2003 $100 1969 $550 Basket Press Para Liqueur Graveyard Shiraz 1992 $75 1980 $250 2004 $95 1970 $400 Shiraz 1878 $1,600 1990 $90 1993 $65 1981 $230 2005 $75 1971 $700 1879 $1,200 1991 $100 1994 $95 1982 $240 2006 $70 1972 $350 1990 $150 1880 $800 1992 Not Released 1995 $75 1983 $240 2007 $65 1973 $360 1991 $140 1881 $800 1993 $75 1996 $95 1984 $210 1974 $400 1992 $95 1887 $800 1994 $80 1997 $80 1985 $250 MOSS WOOD 1975 $400 1993 $75 1893 $1,000 1995 $70 1998 $90 1986 $350 Cab Sauv 1976 $600 1994 $90 1899 $1,000 1996 $95 1999 $60 1987 $210 1977 $400 1995 $75 1901 $650 1997 $75 2000 $70 1988 $310 1990 $130 1978 $400 1996 $140 1908 $550 1998 $110 2001 $80 1989 $240 1991 $160 1979 $380 1997 $95 1910 $500 1999 $90 2002 $90 1990 $460 1992 $120 1980 $360 1998 $190 1922 $450 2000 $95 2003 $70 1991 $400 1993 $100 1981 $390 1999 $95 1925 $700 2001 $80 2004 $80 1992 $350 1994 $130 1982 $370 2000 $80 1927 $360 2002 $75 2005 $65 1993 $300 1995 $170 1983 $400 2001 $85 1930 $240 2003 $80 2006 $55 1994 $340 1996 $150 1984 $360 2002 $140 1933 $200 2004 $80 1995 $340 1997 $100 1985 $400 2003 $100 1939 $150 2005 $85 1996 $500 1998 $150 1986 $550 2004 $95 1944 $90 2006 $100 GIACONDA 1997 $320 1999 $140 1987 $340 2005 $95 1947 $80 2007 $90 Chardonnay 1998 $520 2000 $120 1988 $350 2006 $95 1951 $300 1990 $100 1999 $380 2001 $120 1989 $360 2007 $100CLARENDON HILLS 1991 $75 2001 $360 2002 $90 1990 $580 Astralis Shiraz 1992 $85 2002 $440 2003 $95 1991 $480 1993 $90 2004 $520 2004 $85 1992 $350 1994 $230 1994 $100 2005 $350 2005 $80 1993 $350 1995 $250 1995 $85 2006 $65 1994 $350 1996 $300 1996 $130 2006 $75 1995 $350 1997 $250 1997 $90 1996 $480 1998 $320 1998 $125 1997 $340 1999 $260 1999 $110 1998 $580 2000 $270 2000 $110 1999 $420 2001 $290 2001 $100 2000 $420 2002 $330 2003 $210 2004 $350 2005 $300 2006 $300 98 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions IMPORTED Chateau Latour 2003 $600 Auction WINES 1990 $1,250 2004 $400 1991 $600 2005 $950 World’s bestMoet et Chandon 1992 $280 2006 $450 wine prices Cuvee Dom 1993 $360 Perignon 1994 $360 E. Guigal La Turque Do you want the real wine price story? 1995 $650 Hermitage Do you want to check trends?1973 $360 1996 $1,1001975 $400 1997 $360 1990 $800 Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange1976 $330 1998 $520 1991 $480 has the world’s best Wine Auction sale1978 $250 1999 $600 1992 $2701980 $220 2000 $1,800 1993 $240 price database.1982 $350 2001 $700 1994 $3001983 $180 2002 $750 1995 $500 Every bottle sold over the past1985 $300 2003 $1,500 1996 $260 ten years, perfectly searchable1988 $260 2004 $600 1997 $3201990 $450 2005 $1,350 1998 $700 and cross referenced.1992 $240 2006 Not Released 1999 $5601993 $220 2007 $750 2000 $420 And it’s Free! Just go to the Web site.1995 $220 2001 $520 Sterling Wine Auctions, specialists since1996 $290 Chateau Petrus 2002 $450 1992, offering full Live Online E-trading1998 $260 1990 $4,800 2003 $8501999 $200 1991 $1,300 2004 $350 to clients all over the world and Old2000 $210 1992 $1,000 2005 $800 Fashioned personal service. 1993 $1,800 Gaja Barbaresco Louis Roederer 1994 $1,900 1990 $330 FREE Auction Catalogues Cristal 1995 $1,400 1991 $210 and FREE Bidder Registration. 1996 $1,000 1992 $2601990 $600 1997 $3,500 1993 $210 Phone Lynton for a chat1993 $220 1998 $1,250 1994 $300 on 08 9388 99551994 $340 1999 $5,000 1995 $550 or 0418 949 837,1995 $300 2000 $2,300 1996 $300 or log on1996 $440 2001 $2,000 1997 $2601997 $240 2002 $3,000 1998 $310 www.sterlingwine.com.au1999 $340 2003 $2,000 1999 $2202000 $340 2004 $3,700 2000 $300 STERLING2002 $320Chateau Mouton Domaine Tenuta Wine Auctions & Exchange de la Romanee Dell’Ornellaia Rothschild Conti La Tache1990 $440 1990 $6,600 Ornellaia1991 $280 1991 $1,900 1991 $3201992 $230 1992 $1,250 1992 $1051993 $350 1993 $1,800 1993 $1101994 $280 1994 $1,500 1994 $1301995 $520 1995 $2,200 1995 $1301996 $610 1996 $1,800 1996 $1801997 $280 1997 $1,900 1997 $3401998 $360 1998 $2,200 1998 $3001999 $600 1999 $5,600 1999 $2402000 $1,150 2000 $1,500 2000 $1402001 $450 2001 $2,000 2001 $2902002 $480 2002 $2,800 2002 $2402003 $580 2003 $2,800 2003 $1002004 $500 2004 $2,200 2004 $1502005 Not Released 2005 $3,600 2005 $1502006 Not Released 2006 $1,5002007 $600 Domaine Armand Vega Sicilia Unico Rousseau Gran Reserva Chambertin 1990 $560 Clos de Beze 1991 $420 1990 $950 1994 $550 1991 $200 1995 $300 1992 $220 2003 $300 1993 $380 1994 $180 1995 $560 1996 $600 1997 $280 1998 $400 1999 $800 2000 $400 2001 $380 2002 $500 September/October 2011 W I N E S TAT E 99

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts for a ’98 Bin 389, $98 for a ’96 Bin 389, $94 for a ’98 E&E Black Pepper Shiraz, $142 for LANGTON’S WINE LANGTONS FINE WINE AUCTIONS 2004 Bindi Block 5 Pinot Noir, $110 for a AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (MAY/JUNE REPORT) 2004 Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz, $172 August 30-September 6 (Sydney) IN MAY, Langton’s Melbourne office held for a 2002 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, $116 September 6-13 (Melbourne) a single vendor auction with outstanding for a 2000 Domaine A Cabernet, $143 for September 13-20 (Sydney) Victorian provenance. The sale presented a a ’98 Grant Burge Meshach, $114 for a September 20-27 (Melbourne) small but interesting range of wine and its ’98 Hardys Eileen Hardy Shiraz, and $116 September 27-October 4 (Sydney) overall success highlighted the importance and $150 respectively for a ’96 and 2002 October 4-11 (Melbourne) of provenance and continuous fresh stock Henschke Mount Edelstone. October 11-18 (Sydney) listings in the secondary market. Demand October 18-25 (Melbourne) was above average for this sale, with the Supply over the past few months has October 25-November 1 (Sydney) depth of bidding very strong, resulting in been a challenge and overall Langton’s Stock entry cut-off is 10 days before extremely healthy clearance rates per lot May auction market was propelled by auction begins. and per dollar. new stock listings. An upward trend was also noted in the percentage of successful STERLING WINE Highlights of the Melbourne sale included bidding, primarily driven by more realistic AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE $1749 for a 1996 Chateau Lafite Rothschild, vendor pricing. September 2-14 $834 for a ’96 Chateau Margaux, $588 for (consignment deadline August 29) a ’95 Chateau Mouton Rothschild, $179 Demand was strong and at one of the September 30-October 12 for a 1997 Bass Phillip Premium Pinot highest levels for the Sydney June auction (deadline September 26) Noir, $109 for a ’96 Cullen Cabernet Merlot market. June delivered some extraordinary October 28-November 9 (now labelled Diana Madeline), $168 for a prices for Australian pinot noir. Great (deadline October 24) ’98 Dalwhinnie Eagle Shiraz, $128 for a producers of Australian pinot are always ’96 Penfolds Bin 389 and $167 for a ’96 limited in supply and becoming increasingly ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Rockford Basket Press. hotly contested. Price highlights in this area Monthly live online auctions included $211 for a 2001 Bass Phillip Wines - visit www.oddbins.com.au for dates. Langton’s May auction in Sydney Premium Pinot Noir, $92 for a 2004 Bindi confirmed an upward trend in clearance Original Vineyard Pinot Noir and $68 for a GRAYSONLINE rates of lots sold. This was again driven 2004 Epis Pinot Noir. Daily wine auctions (featuring a by fresh stock listings and vendor reserve range of red and white wines and management. Bullish prices were achieved The highlight for Langton’s June auction regional and country-specific sales) for blue-chip Australian brands, including market was the annual Penfolds sale. This $346 for a 1998 Penfolds Bin 707, $282 for special event auction, which comprised CRACKA WINES a ’96 Bin 707, $220 for a 2001 Bin 707, $93 1420 lots and closed on June 21, defied Live wine auctions every day at 1pm the market - producing seven record sale on weekdays and 8pm on weekends prices. Langton’s founder and general manager Stewart Langton said it was a LIQUID ASSET remarkable result in a difficult environment. FINE WINE AUCTIONS Fortnightly online auctions “The fact that the interest in super- - from Thursday 8pm to Tuesday premium wines, particularly Penfolds 8pm. Register for notifications at Grange, keeps growing is phenomenal,” www.liquidasset.co.nz/register. says Stewart. “There’s a great Australian pride in Grange. It has no parallel in the (All dates subject to change world, no one can collect the first vintage of without notice) the great First Growth wines of Bordeaux, but that is possible with Grange.” The catalogue was exclusively Penfolds and comprised a wide selection of the Australian winemaker’s wines reflecting nine decades of winemaking and including the sale of two wines never before seen at auction: 1911 Auldana St Henri, Magill (half bottle) which achieved $1265, and a 1960 Bin 379 Special Bottling Sauternes, Barossa Valley, which sold for $1208. Made at Penfolds’ former Auldana winery, adjacent to the company’s Magill Estate winery in Adelaide, the Auldana St Henri is definitely a curio, according to Stewart.100 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2011