Winestate Magazine March April 2011

regional tastingMitchelton Airstrip Seppelt Drumborg Seppelt Drumborg Pinot Redbank The LongCentral Victoria Vineyard Chardonnay Noir 2009 HHH Paddock Central VictoriaMarsanne Roussanne 2008 HHHHH Good varietal definition on the Merlot 2009 HHHViognier 2009 HHH1/2 Toasty oak aromas laced nose, and a pleasant, easy-to- Clean, vibrant red berryExotic aromas of figs, with peachy fruit and some drink, nutty palate. $52.99 style with savoury tannins tocumquats and spices, and attractive funky elements. balance it. 5+ $13.95mouth-coating, spicy tropical Excellent citrus flavour intensityflavours. Excellent weight and on a long, creamy palatetexture. $26 supported by a lovely mineral CABERNET acid structure. 5+ $43.99 BLENDSSnobs Creek Estate SVGLake Eildon Pinot Gris McPherson Chapter 6 TASTED2010 HHH Three Central VictoriaLifted tinned tropical aromas Chardonnay 2010 HHH 2 AWARDEDand a nicely textured, Musky/herbal bouquet withpleasantly flavoured palate. $20 spicy tropical notes, and a The judges noted there were citrus fruit palate with some firm tannins and acids here,Tallis Dookie Hills Central obvious oak. $29.99 perhaps a bit overdone.Victoria Viognier 2010 HHHGood varietal nose of dried Blue Pyrenees McPherson Basiliskapricots, and fresh palate with Chardonnay 2009 HHH Central Victoria Cabernetnice fruit intensity. $18 Developed creamy, butterscotch Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 nose and a tight, light and Herbal/menthol elements onMount Avoca Pyrenees elegant palate. 3-5 $18 the nose and a very balancedViognier 2009 HHH palate with nice fruit vibrancy,Quite a complex creamy/leesy Preece Central Victoria Taltarni Pyrenees good acidity and warmingnose and a long, complex Chardonnay 2009 HHH Sangiovese 2008 HHH alcohol. $17.99palate with a subtlety of Very ripe, vibrant, tropical Vegemite notes to the nose andflavours. $22 style with some botrytis- intense, dark fruit flavours with Balgownie Estate Black like sweetness and citrusy a balanced tannin profile. $19.99 Label Bendigo YarraBlue Pyrenees Viognier acidity. $15 Valley Cabernet Merlot2009 HHH Michael Unwin Wines 2008 HHHComplexity of smoky/cheesy OTHER RED Umbrella Man Ballarat Very young, elegant wine witharomas and long, powerful VARIETALS Durif 2005 HHH lovely minty, blackcurrant-likepalate with appealing stone- Peppery fruit bouquet and fruit and fine tannins. $24fruit flavours. $18 10 TASTED slightly hot, firm palate with the fruit still prominent. $26 CABERNETTerra Felix Central Victoria 4 AWARDED SAUVIGNONViognier 2009 HHH MERLOTNice toasty/honeyed bouquet A few tough vintages here, which 17 TASTEDand a nice rich palate offering a were reflected in the results. 7 TASTED 10 AWARDEDmouthful of flavour. $19 However, some winemakers 2 AWARDED also did not help their cause with Solid class of well-made winesCHARDONNAY fermentation and oak handling without any major faults. The issues. But a few showed how it better wines exhibited riper13 TASTED could be done. fruit and vibrancy with good4 AWARDED varietal characters. Nintingbool BallaratControversial class! Normally Pinot Noir 2009 HHH A difficult variety everywhere; Blue Pyrenees Cabernetchardonnay does well in this Intense red hues, fragrant, this area was no exception. Sauvignon 2009 HHHH1/2regional tasting, but not this fruity aromas and a big, juicy-time. A diverse range of styles sweet berry palate. $30 Leydens Vale Avoca Young and feisty, with somewith some late picked and lovely choc-mint/dark fruit aromasover-use of oak issues. Some Merlot 2007 HHH and a very long, fragrantly earthyothers were heavy-handed in Big, lip-smacking red cordial/the malolactic area. red berry wine that needs more palate with supportive tannins and balancing acidity. Needs cellaring time. 3-5 $12.95 time. 5+ $20John Harris Adam Foster JUDGESSparkling winemaker for Owner/winemaker ofDomaine Chandon in the Syrahini and Foster e Rocca Jo MarshYarra Valley. Associate Wines. Has also a French Winemaker at thejudge at the Melbourne label called L’imposteur, Seppelt winery, Greatwine show. Guest which he works on. Western for the pastsparkling wine lecturer at Formerly sommelier and seven years, plus stints atCharles Sturt University chef at Lake House Resort Penfold’s, Rosemount andand Deakin University. at Daylesford. Judge at Lindemans. Has vintaged Macedon and Daylesford in California and Burgundy. wine shows. Associate judge at the Victorian wine show. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 101

CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIAMount Avoca Balgownie Estate Harcourt Valley Vineyards Preece Central VictoriaPyrenees Cabernet Bendigo Cabernet Sightings Bendigo Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHHSauvignon 2009 HHHH Sauvignon 2008 HHH 2009 HHHH Simple shiraz with attractiveBright, intense colour. Slight Elegantly structured wine with Well-made wine with its spicy red berry fruits and silky-minty element on the nose minty/blackcurrant fruit and lovely spicy and savoury nose smooth tannins. 3-5 $15and acid still prominent on the abundant fine tannins. $40 showing a floral touch and nicepalate. A vibrant youth that varietal flavour density on a Heathcote Winery Mailneeds more time to reach its Tahbilk Central smooth, fleshy palate. $20 Coach Heathcote Shirazpotential. 5+ $25 Victoria Cabernet 2009 HHH Sauvignon 2007 HHH Harcourt Valley Vineyards Beautifully textured wine nicelyMitchelton Central Syrupy-sweet berry nose and Old Vine Shiraz 2009 HHHH layered with fruit, oak andVictoria Cabernet generous fleshy fruit palate Very appealing black olive tannins. Elegant! $28.50Sauvignon 2009 HHHH with a nice line of tannins. and ginger-like aromas withSoft, easy-drinking style with a peppery/floral lift - very Taltarni Pyreneessavoury/spicy berry fragrances 3-5 $23 complex. The palate has Shiraz 2008 HHHand an elegant varietal restrained spicy fruit flavours Spicy, inky-black aromas andpalate with great oak/tannin Tahbilk Eric Stevens and ultra-fine tannins. $35 a very youthful palate withintegration. 5+ $20 Purbrick Cabernet intense flavour profile. $39.99 Sauvignon 2005 HHH Mount AvocaPreece Central Smells of crushed ants and Reserve Pyrenees ShirazVictoria Cabernet cigar boxes and has good depth 2008 HHHHSauvignon 2009 HHH of sweet fruit flavours. $69.95 Quite a confectionery-sweetCassis and spice on the nose, fruit bouquet with a dash ofand a firm, very youthful SHIRAZ spice, and a tannic palate withpalate with good fruit weight. 2009/2008 long, savoury-like flavour - quite rich. $59 5+ $15 31 TASTED 15 AWARDEDHarcourt Valley Vineyards Blue Pyrenees ShirazSightings Bendigo Cabernet 2008 HHHHSauvignon 2009 HHH Perfumed, mulberry-like noseSweet/sour element to the A strong viewing from the and a supple and well-balancednose, and soft and savoury in better wines in this class, with berry fruit palate nicelythe mouth. 3-5 $20 good regional cooler-climate supported by the firm, chewy shiraz. Nice to see some tannins. $20 White Box HeathcoteTaltarni Pyrenees Cabernet different oak regimes and the Shiraz 2008 HHHSauvignon 2008 HHH occasional whiff of viognier! Mount Avoca Pyrenees Quite floral on the nose, withSweet chocolaty/beetroot aromas Shiraz 2008 HHHH very generous sweet, spicyand choc berry flavours with Harcourt Valley Smells meaty and herbal and raspberry flavours and supplegrainy tannin support. $39.99 Vineyards Barbara’s has nicely focused juicy fruit tannins. $19.50 flavours on the long, tannicPyrenees Ridge Shiraz 2009 HHHHH palate. Quite hot. Good food Pyren VineyardPyrenees Cabernet Very interesting style. Lovely wine. $25 Block E PyreneesSauvignon 2009 HHH purple colour, spicy, aromatic Shiraz 2008 HHHBrooding dark fruit bouquet nose and soft and elegant Chocolaty/red berry nose andand slightly developed leathery/ palate with earthy/savoury-like Leydens Vale Pyrenees well-balanced, vibrant fruittobacco palate with firm flavours perfectly matched by Shiraz 2008 HHHH palate. $30tannins. $28 the tannins. 3-5 $25 The nose has a smoky, aromatic profile and the palate is tight SHIRAZ and elegant, with a lovely core 2007 & OLDER of dark fruit flavours, very good acid and subtle oak. $12.95 15 TASTED 6 AWARDED Balgownie Estate Bendigo Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Tightly focused, evenly structured varietal with dark, spicy berry fruits and charry oak. “Winemaking got in the way STAR RATINGS  Needs cellaring. 3-5 $40 of some of these wines,” suggested one judge. “GoodThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Heathcote Winery fruit was spoiled in some casesexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Curagee Heathcote by poor oak characters.” TheAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Shiraz 2009 HHH better wines here showedprofessionals and are compared in peer Sweet oak mingles with dark intensity and balanced structure.classes by three judges. berry aromas and the vibrantCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, flavours are supported by Seppelt Silverbanda major mail-order business. velvety tannins. $55CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only. Heathcote Winery Grampians ShirazSO Sold out. Slaughter House 2006 HHHHH$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Paddock Heathcote Shiraz Rich, full-bodied, old-school 2009 HHH shiraz that needs more time to Contact information pg 160. Nice savoury, cool-climate really shine. Smells savoury with style with lifted varietal fruit spicy rhubarb elements. Firm, RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). seamlessly integrated with oak tannic palate with intense dark and tannins. $40 fruit flavours. 5+ $36.99102 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

regional tastingSeppelt Benno Bendigo Tahbilk Central Victoria McPherson Basilisk SWEET WHITESShiraz 2006 HHHH Shiraz 2007 HHH Central Victoria ShirazBright, lifted blackberry bouquet Not overtly complex but has Mourvedre 2009 HHHH1/2 4 TASTEDand soft, fleshy palate with oak nice savoury/mushroomy notes Floral nose with a spicy lift 3 AWARDEDtending to dominate the juicy to the nose and fleshy fruit leading to a palate loaded withfruit. Some lovely fine tannins in flavours. $23 vibrant, peppery fruits and Some nice dessert wines forsupportive role. $55.99 supported by a long, supple you to enjoy!Seppelt Mount Ida SHIRAZ BLENDS tannic backbone and some veryHeathcote Shiraz good oak. $17.99 Mitchelton Blackwood2006 HHHH 6 TASTED McPherson Chapter Three Park Botrytis RieslingDense, brooding, dark berry 3 AWARDED Central Victoria Shiraz 2010 HHHHHaromas and great concentration Viognier 2008 HHH1/2 Gorgeous honeyed/toastyof varietal flavours with tightly Strong class, with the addition Bright, peppery nose and marmalade/orange peelwound tannins. Just needs of other varieties adding to the silky-smooth palate with dark bouquet and fantasticmore time to reach its best. aromas and juicy palate. berry fruits and warming concentration of soft, sweet, alcohol. $29.99 gingerbread-like flavours with 5+ $55.99 Mitchelton Crescent some lovely refreshing acidityMount Avoca Reserve Central Victoria Shiraz to balance the sweetness. $20Pyrenees Shiraz 2007 HHH Mourvedre GrenacheOak dominates the nose and 2009 HHHH1/2 Mount Avoca Pyreneeshas a VA kick. Hot, ripe fruit Long, complex and quite Frizzante 2010 HHHpalate - big, rich and silky- savoury wine with lovely dark Sweet pineapple/passionfruitsmooth. $59 tarry/spicy berry fruit, long, even nose and light, lively andGrampians Estate Streeton tannins and some well-handled flavoursome palate. $15Reserve Grampians oak. Just needs another fiveShiraz 2007 HHH years in the cellar! $26 Taltarni PyreneesDark, ripe fruit aromatics and Late Harvest Viogniergood mouthful of dark berry 2007 HHHflavours on the warm, drying Toasty citrus bouquet andpalate. $65 attractive sweet fruity palate with a huge spirity lift. $18 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 103

256 TASTED152 AWARDEDI TA LI A N & S PA N I S HOur biggest ever tasting of these Mediterranean varieties, both OTHERlocal and imported. Lots to like here, with an amazing array of SPANISHvarietal names to check out and quality across all classes. WHITEHave we passed the tipping point, with the masses taking an VARIETALSinterest in the “new” varietals? & BLENDS 6 TASTED 6 AWARDEDSPANISH Freixenet Metodo “Nice drinking here,”SPARKLING Tracional Cordon agreed the judges. Rosado Brut Cava “Well made but for8 TASTED NV HHH quaffing, not thinking!” Aromas of red cherries6 AWARDED and rose petals, and a pleasant, creamyInteresting class of explosion of vibrant fruit Telmo Rodriguezlight appley and earthy flavours. $18 Basa Rueda Verdejostyles offering delicious 2009 HHH1/2quaffing and good value. Vallformosa MVSA Pungently grassy/ Brut Cava NV HHH asparagus aromas andRaventos i Blanc Bright pale straw wine Bodegas Eidosela light, vibrant fruitiness onL’hereu Reserva Brut with a persistent bead, Rias Baixas Albarino a palate that shows goodCava 2007 HHHH intense, fresh appley 2008 HHHH varietal expression. $27Gentle and very nose and flavoursome Very expressive floralaromatic nose smelling palate. $22 and ripe nectarine nose Guitian Jovenof apples and citrus. leading to a long, well- Valdeorras GodelloFull and creamy in the Segura Viudas balanced, savoury palate NV HHHmouth, with lingering, Vintage Brut Cava with very gentle tannin/ Delicate floral bouquetzesty lemon flavours. 2005 HHH acid balance. $33 with a dash of freshVery classy! $39 Appealing biscuity aromas Camino Del Pelegrino herbs. Fruit-driven with hints of pear drops Rias Baixas Albarino palate, neat and and almost champagne- 2009 HHH1/2 balanced. 3-5 $49 like palate. $20 Subtle peach andSegura Viudas Pazo San Mauro melon aromas and an Zonte’s FootstepsReserva Brut Cava ALBARINO Rias Baixas Albarino enchantingly aromatic Sea Mist LanghorneNV HHH1/2 2009 HHHH1/2 palate with lovely Creek VerdelhoAppley nose with glints 7 TASTED Very elegant style with structure and texture. 2009 HHHof mineral earthiness, and 6 AWARDED lifted floral aromas and a Asian spices, pearsa grippy palate offering beautifully balanced palate 3-5 $28.99 and flowers on thea mouthful of pretty, Strong group showing with mouth-watering Pazo de Senorans nose, and a consistent,perfumed flavours. $15 clear varietal definition juiciness and a lovely Rias Baixas Albarino balanced, medium- with the appropriate 2009 HHH weight palate. $15.99Juve y Camps edgy minerally harmony of lingering Medium-bodied wine characters to balance tropical and melon with a floral bouquetReserva de la the fuller fruit involved. flavours. 3-5 $39 and pleasant tropical La Purisima EstioFamilia Nature fruit flavours. Warming Macabeo 2009 HHHGrand Reserva Brut finish. $39.99 Slight spicy, tropicalCava 2006 HHH1/2 Castro Martin Rias Valminor Rias aromas and nice soft, Baixas Albarino Baixas Albarino tropical fruit palateLifted green apple nose 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH with good tannin/acidwith slight spiciness, Delicate floral bouquet structure. $22and a solid, flavoursome The nose is a beautiful and nice juicy, pear-like combo of stone-fruits, palate that has balancepalate with lots of yeasty white flowers and and length. $44richness. 3-5 $60 mandarin peel aromas, followed by an easy, graceful and juicy lemon jube palate. 3-5 $39104 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011



ITA LIAN & SPANISHTelmo Rodriguez Pittacum Barrica Telmo Rodriguez Artazuri Navarra Clos FigueresGaba do Xil Bierzo Mencia Almuvedre Garnacha Priorat TempranilloValdeorras Godello 2006 HHHH1/2 Alicante Monastrell 2008 HHHH 2005 HHHH2009 HHH Lovely deep red wine. 2009 HHHH Jammy/spicy nose Smells of plums andSubdued floral nose Great tarry/plum Lovely grapey presence and medium-bodied star anise with a dashwith yeasty elements. characters on the nose to the jubey fruit nose, palate with good spice of soy sauce. Ripe andLuscious in the mouth, with a spicy lift. Full- and a pleasant purple fruit and dark cherry fruit, plummy in the mouth,with slight tropical bodied palate offering a palate with great tannins heavily oaked, good acid with a toasty oakyflavours. 3-5 $30 mouthful of dark berry in support - very pretty spine and some chalky backbone and fresh acid flavours and excellent wine. 3-5 $26 tannins. 3-5 $29 spine. 3-5 $150Marques de Alella tannins. 5+ $46Alella Pansa Blanca El Seque Laderas de2009 HHH Pyramids Road el Seque MonastrellSmells of ginger and Granite Belt Blend 2009 HHHHlemon and has a fresh, Mourvedre Fleshy plum and violetclean, expressive 2009 HHHH nose and medium-bodiedpalate with some Earthy fruit aromas with palate with big clouds ofsweetness. $31 a dash of coffee, and juicy, spicy blue fruits, quite an intriguing woody/ some great acidity andROSADA mushroomy palate with ‘neat’ tannins. $28 velvety tannins and3 TASTED quite a perfumed finish. Myattsfield Vineyard Western Australia2 AWARDED 5+ $30 Mourvedre Handcrafted by 2008 HHHH Geoff Hardy Pretty pastille fruitPitticum Tres Langhorne Creek bouquet with delicateObiopos Bierzo Graciano 2009 HHHH floral overtones.Rosado de Mencia Aromas of black and Mouthfilling, tarry, dark2009 HHH1/2 blue fruits with hints of berry fruit flavours wellSlightly smoky bacon rind. Luscious, integrated with the silkystrawberry/tomato-like medium-bodied palate tannins. 3-5 $24aromas and cherry liqueur with soft, earthy fruitflavours with good tannic flavours, fine tannins Descendientes Vall Llach Embruix degrip and crisp acidity. and good acidity. $18 de J Palacios Vall Llach Priorat Red Petalos Bierzo Blend 2006 HHHH 3-5 $33 Alvaro Palacios Mencia 2008 HHHH Still reasonably fresh Camins del Priorat Expressive and lifted for a four-year-old, withArtazuri Navarra Garnacha Blend cherry and cranberry-like cherries and chocolatesGarnacha Rosado Myattsfield Western 2008 HHHH aromas leading to a on the nose, followed2009 HHH Australia Mourvedre Good mineral and floral palate showing some by a grippy tannic palateDelicate blackberry 2009 HHHH characters on the nose attractive gamey/forest that’s fine and persistent.aromas and a fresh, Bramble fruit bouquet and a straightforward floor elements. $49light-bodied palate with with meaty overtones, sweet and oaky palate Willunga 100 3-5 $70persistent flavours. $26 and a neat, snug and but it’s all in balance McLaren Vale Granrojo elegant palate with an and has a long, warming Garnacha Rojo GarnachaOTHER advanced fruit profile. finish. 3-5 $49 2007 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2SPANISH RED Huge wine that smells of Very complex, leatheryVARIETALS Christmas cake and has nose with a violet lift.& BLENDS mouthfilling warm, sweet Great depth of sweet and oaky flavours with cherry and medicinal28 TASTED a spicy hit to the finish. flavours on a long,26 AWARDED Good cellaring potential. gentle palate. $22 Palacios RemondoLots of different and 5+ $22.95 La Vendimiainteresting varieties AN Negra Vit AN/2 Garnachaon exhibit here, with Mallorca Garnacha Tempranillogarnacha/grenache Blend 2007 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2and mourvedre doing Slightly pruney, leathery Interesting glazed meatwell. Generally these nose with a long and and red berry nose andwere in the savoury very elegant palate full succulent fruit flavoursspectrum, rather than of sweet/sour flavours. on a ‘pillowy’-softbeing fruit ‘bombs’. The Pleasant quaffer for palate. Nice acid finish.best had nice balanced enjoying now! $60tannin structures. 3-5 $30 “Crying out for a slab of beef!” 5+ $24106 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

varietal tastingGolden Grove Palacios RemondoEstate Granite Belt La MontesaMourvedre Rioja Garnacha2009 HHH1/2 TempranilloOld-school style with 2007 HHHan amontillado type of Dark and earthy nosecharacter. Has sweet, with a spicy lift. Freshspicy aromas and toasty cherry/berry palate withdark fruit flavours. $28 sinewy tannins. $45Bremerton Clos FigueresLanghorne Creek Priorat GarnachaGraciano 2009 HHH Blend 2005 HHHAromas of black Well-made aged winefruits with seductive with varnishy, chocolatyoak influence. Oak nose and lingering tannicdominates the palate - palate. $150for now. 5+ $24 TEMPRANILLODowie Doole 2009G&T McLarenVale Grenache 22 TASTEDTempranillo 11 AWARDED2009 HHHJammy nose with a Disappointing!licorice thread, and a Too many wines hereripe, fruity palate with lacked structure andfine tannins. $25 were too simple in primary fruit characters.Crittenden EstateLos HermanosTempranillo MataroGarnacha 2009 HHHSubdued dark berry/coffee nose and darkberry palate. Good foodwine. $30Brown BrothersCellar Door ReleaseMilawa Graciano2008 HHHSubdued nose but anopen, earthy palate withsilky tannins and goodacid. 3-5 $19.90Torres Sangre deToro CatalunyaGrenache Carignan2008 HHHToasty oak and spicyred berry nose, whichis echoed on the lightpalate. $20Telmo Rodriguez Maximus WinesGabo do Xil Mclaren ValeValdeorras Mencia Tempranillo2008 HHH 2009 HHHHFragrances of cherries, Luscious deep red winespices and plums. Same with purple tints, spicy/for palate. Nice fresh line floral nose, caramel-likeof acid. 3-5 $32 oak and a big, soft, sweet Cherry Ripe-likeSanta Cruz de palate with chalkyArtazu Navarra tannins. $24.99Garnacha 2006 HHHVery earthy, sweetwine with red fruits,powdery tannins andtoasty oak. $100 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 107

ITA LIAN & SPANISH Sandbar Estate Oliver’s Taranga TeAro Estate The Wild Oats King Victoria Tempranillo Vineyards Small Charging Bull Valley Tempranillo 2009 HHH Batch McLaren Vale Barossa Valley 2008 HHH Well-made varietal Tempranillo Tempranillo Raspberry fruit on the with aromas like cocoa 2009 HHH 2008 HHH1/2 nose, with a savoury powder and herbs and Very savoury/meaty Powerful, full-bodied thread which follows on good flavour depth. $15 nose and well-integrated wine with dark, to the full-bodied palate. leathery/spicy cherry brambly fruit, savoury Paxton McLaren flavours. 3-5 $32 backbone and chalky, 3-5 $18.99 Vale Tempranillo 2009 HHH tannic finish. Needs Kellermeister Big, woody wine time. 5+ $30 Adelaide Hills with some good fruit TEMPRANILLO Tempranillo persistence and fine, 2008 2008 HHH lingering tannins. Dusty, medicinal 13 TASTED bouquet and juicy palate 3-5 $22 with up-front, spicy fruit 10 AWARDED and lots of wood. $20Cillar de Silos Joven Toppers Mountain Technically correct Marques de Elciegode Silos Ribera del New England group of wines, if Rioja TempranilloDuero Tempranillo Tempranillo unspectacular. Again 2008 HHH 2009 HHH these are more for Savoury nutty/bacon Charmingly fresh, quaffing than for serious oak nose and medium- ‘innocent’ wine with drinking but a few could weight, savoury palate vibrant red pepper nose improve with more age. with velvety tannins. and savoury palate. 3-5 $23.99 3-5 $242009 HHHH Ernest Hill Andrew The Pawn En St Hallett CellarRipe, mouthfilling and Watson McLaren Door Releasevery flavoursome wine Vale Tempranillo Passant Adelaide Barossa Valley 2009 HHH Hills Tempranillowith dense cherry/coffee Light, pleasant, well- 2008 HHHH Tempranilloaromas and long licorice balanced style with 2008 HHHflavours with persistent perfumed aromas and Lively, leathery nose Very Aussie in style; chewy, chunky palate. with a spicy lift. Inky andtannins. 3-5 $40 medicinal in the mouth, sweet and oaky and 3-5 $27 tinged with tarry tertiaryBunkers The Box Angustum Swan Hill with gentle, lingering fruit characters. 3-5 $25 Tempranillo flavours and fine, silkyMargaret River 2009 HHH tannins. 3-5 $24 Glandore EstateTempranillo Open, evolving wine Wines TPR Pokolbin2009 HHH1/2 with spicy/dried herb- Tempranillo TEMPRANILLOFull-bodied wine, sweet like nose and ripe fruit/ Mr Riggs Yacca 2008 HHH 2007 & OLDERand spicy on the nose chalky tannin palate. Paddock Adelaide Stewed bramblyand silky-soft in the Hills Tempranillo bouquet and simple 18 TASTEDmouth, with excellent 3-5 $30 2008 HHH1/2 plum palate with fine Lovely aromas of tannins. A tad hot. $35 12 AWARDED brambles and tar with dark Jacob’s Creekdepth of juicy berry fruit earthy notes. Mouthfilling Tempranilloflavours. 3-5 $18 truffley/cherry/panforte 2008 HHH flavours. Very elegant Combo of meaty/grapey Interesting class of agedWitchmount El Quintanal aromas with abundant wines, showing thatMcLaren Vale Joven Ribera del 5+ $25 fruit flavours and good tempranillo likes someTempranillo Duero Tempranillo tannin structure. $11.49 secondary characteristics2009 HHH 2009 HHH to handle the fruit thisSpicy/earthy nose and Savoury licorice/olive Nashwauk McLaren variety offers. However, aromas with fine tannins Vale Tempranillo the wines still neednice focus of fleshy fruit and fresh acid on the 2008 HHH1/2 balance when young inflavours with lots of spicy fruit palate. $30 order to age well.spice. 3-5 $29 Lifted red/blue fruit nose; good spiciness. Very generous, mouthfilling oak palate with loads of fruit to match. 3-5 $25DAY 1 - JUDGES Mark Protheroe Jonathan Creek Head sommelier for Senior winemaker of Scott Wasley the Grossi restaurant operations at Zilzie Winery. Director of the Spanish group, with four Formerly winemaker Aquisition. Leading individual restaurants. at Gallo Winery (US) importer of Spanish Involved in the 2004 and Coldstream Hills, Wines. He is a regular International Wine Nepenthe & Brokenwood commentator for various Challenge in the UK. wineries. Associate judge wine magazines, a wine Current Negociants at the Inland Wine Show educator and a spokesman wine fellowship winner. in Swan Hill. for the modern Spanish ‘new wave’ of winemaking.108 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

varietal tastingBodegas Pintia Toro Torres Coronas Marques de ElciegoDO Tinta de Toro Catalunya Reserva Rioja2006 HHHH Tempranillo TempranilloWell-structured, 2007 HHH 2004 HHHfirm and savoury style Woody, prune-like Olive and prune-likewith ripe fruit, fine bouquet and slightly hot, aromas, and a firmtannins and toasty chocolaty palate with a palate showing goodoak and developing minty element. $20 fruit expression.some interestingtertiary characters. Salamandra Vino 3-5 $46.99 del la Tierra Casilla 3-5 $130 Y Leon Tempranillo SPANISH 2007 HHH MOSCATELBodegas Alion Dark and brooding, WINNERY Vinedos Vega chocolaty aromas 2 TASTED WINESTATERibera Del Duero and fully evolved and 2 AWARDED WINE OF THE YEAR2005 HHHH expressive palate. DrinkNice meaty/fleshy wine now. $22 Telmo Rodriguezwith a brooding bouquet MR Mountain Wineand dry, savoury palate Malaga Moscatelthat’s in good shape, Pokolbin Estate 2008 HHHH1/2with everything in perfect Belebula Hunter Nose not too sweet,harmony. 3-5 $165 Valley Tempranillo with a lovely savoury 2007 HHH element and tons ofTelmo Rodriguez Minty/green nose - very earthy/spicy characters.Lanzaga Rioja complex and gentle Palate described byTempranillo and harmonious in the one judge as “long,2007 HHH1/2 mouth. 3-5 $28 shimmering and savouryProfound and complex and yet sweet. Bring onplum, meaty, cola, violet Mount Burrumboot the sorbet!” $49aromas, and a plush, Estate Heathcotesavoury palate with lovely Tempranillo Primitivo Quilesvelvety tannins. $58 2007 HHH Alicante Moscatel Lots of oak and overt NV HHHHBodegas Roda berry fruit on the nose, Rich and unctuous,Roda Reserva Rioja with a big, jammy, with great depth ofTempranillo Graciano velvety palate. $30 soft, sweet, earthy2006 HHH1/2 flavours - perfectlyVery meaty and Solar Viejo Rioja fresh and vibrant andmasculine, yet elegant, Crianza 2007 HHH with interesting honey/with good depth of Gentle and very varietal lavender characters. $18flavour dominated by and for drinking now.oak with grippy tannins. Good length of chalky tannins. $30 3-5 $100Vega Sicilia Valbuena Cillar de Silos HANDCRAFTINGRibera del Duero Crianza Ribera del OUTSTANDINGTinto 2004 HHH1/2 Duero Tempranillo CABERNET SAUVIGNONEarthy/meaty nose with 2007 HHHa prune-like character, Juicy licorice, plum and 2007 Cabernet Sauvignonand weighty fruit palate spice bouquet, and awith a charry oak straightforward sweet top gold medal - 2010 National Wine Showbackbone. $350 berry palate. $75 gold medal - 2010 Adelaide Wine Show gold medal - 2010 Brisbane Wine Show Adriano Marchioro DAY 2 - JUDGES Winery manager at 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Witchmount Wines and Franco D’Anna cellarmaster for MoMo Winemaker, Hoddles gold medal - 2010 Hobart Wine Show restaurant in Melbourne. Creek Estate in the Yarra gold medal - 2010 Australian Sommelier at Flemington Valley. He learnt his craft Small Winemakers Show Racecourse. Associate at Coldstream Hills, Red gold medal - 2010 Brisbane Wine Show judge at Ballarat and the Edge and with former Mt Victorian Wine Show. Has Mary winemaker, Mario Step Road completed nine vintages in Marson. As part of the Langhorne Creek Geelong, Great Western, D’Anna family who own ph 08 8537 3017 Gippsland and Sunbury. Bocaccio Cellars, one of www.lakebreeze.com.au the biggest importers of Italian wines in Australia. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 109

ITA LIAN & SPANISHITALIAN Zonte’s Footsteps Redbank The Long Banrock Station K1 by Geoff HardySPARKLING Doctoressa Canto Paddock Victoria Mediterranean Pinot Adelaide Hills Arneis di lago Fleurieu Pinot Grigio Grigio 2009 HHH 2010 HHHH11 TASTED Peninsula Pinot 2009 HHHH Solid citrus/pear aromas Great nose: “Smells of3 AWARDED Grigio 2010 HHHH1/2 Beautifully delicate, and quite a complex spring,” suggested one “Personality plus” was floral nose with palate - creamy with judge. Palate with purityThe judges were how one judge described elements of ginger flinty fruit flavours. $16 and poise and juicy peardisappointed as there this interesting wine. and spice and a lightly flavours with a touchwere too many wines Beautiful focus and structured, flavoursome Tertini Southern of apricot. Clean, crispthat lacked balance, with purity of floral/pear fruit palate. Excellent with Highlands Pinot finish. $20the moscato generally with good integration food. $13.95 Grigio 2009 HHHoverdone with residual of attractive phenolic The Black Chook Delicate citrus nose Fontanafreddasugar. Generally there are characters. $15.99 Adelaide Hills Pinot with a melon note, and Langhe Arneisbetter proseccos around. Stefano de Pieri Pinot Grigio 2010 HHH1/2 a generous, creamy 2009 HHH1/2 Grigio NV HHHH Typical apple/pear-like palate. $25 Well-made wine withJacob’s Creek Pale straw wine with aromas and a simple soft, floral aromas andSparkling Moscato a hint of pink. Good lift floral/pear palate ARNEIS nice citrus/green beanNV HHH of jasmine-like aromas, showing lovely balance palate with excellentEasy-quaffing crowd which follow through to and texture. $17 9 TASTED line and balance. Crisppleaser with floral/ the palate and mingle Redbank Sunday 5 AWARDED ending. $26.99muscat aromas and with pear flavours. Good Morning King Valleyflavours. $13.99 food wine. $16.99 Pinot Grigio “Some good winemaking Patritti Adelaide The Pawn Caissa 2010 HHH1/2 here,” agreed the judges, Hills ArneisStefano de Pieri Adelaide Hills Pinot Lifted ginger aromas with good balance of 2010 HHHFrizzante NV HHH Grigio 2010 HHHH mingle with cut-grass phenolics offering varietal Refreshing, balancedSubdued apple aromas Lovely aromatics of characters. Lovely palate focus. “Lots of juicy, and beautifully refinedand crisp, strawberry spices and ginger with with sweet, chalky drinkable wines from this wine smelling andpalate. Good food a lemon rind lift. Silky- flavours. Good minerally variety.” Great food wine. tasting of pears andwine. $20.49 smooth and beautifully finish. $24.95 apple skins. $12.50 balanced palate with Jacob’s Creek PinotBrown Brothers attractive minerally Grigio 2010 HHH Box StallionLimited Release character. $20 Pleasant, perfumed MorningtonKing Valley bouquet and a light, Peninsula ArneisProsecco 2010 HHH fresh and lively pear/ 2009 HHHFun and fruity aromatics apple palate. $11.49 Intriguing nose with lotswith a candied apple- Yalumba Y Series going on, and lovelylike palate and good South Australia crisp length to thebubbles. $18.90 Pinot Grigio honeydew palate. $20 2010 HHHPINOT GRIGIO Smells appley with a OTHER hint of spice. Apples on ITALIAN WHITE22 TASTED the palate, freshness on VARIETALS14 AWARDED the finish. $12.95 10 TASTED 5 AWARDEDVery interesting class, Tiefenbrunner Haselgrove Primo Tertini Reserve Mixed bag of minerally,with nice textural focus Sudtirol-Alto Adige Taglio Adelaide Hills Southern Highlands light styles, with freshrather than simple, fruit- Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio Arneis 2010 HHHH rather than broad,driven wines. “Leaving 2009 HHHH 2010 HHH Quite an oaky nose, developing stylessome phenolics in this Beautifully balanced Fantastic floral with aromas of pears performing best. “Still astyle is a good thing,” - true to style - wine fragrances and brimming and almonds. Interesting work in progress here,”suggested one judge. with lovely varietal fruit. over with lovely citrus palate; big, juicy and commented one judge.“It makes the wines Slightly honeyed nose flavours. $16 textured, with stone-fruitmore food-friendly.” and good acid spine Amadio Adelaide flavours. Some alcohol Yelland & Papps to the palate. Easy Hills Pinot Grigio warmth. $35 Delight Barossa drinking. $25 2010 HHH Valley Vermentino Lifted, perfumed, floral 2010 HHHH nose and palate, with Alluringly complex lovely crispness and bouquet with an apple- spicy/floral flavours. $18 like lift and an almost Serafino Bellissimo petroleum-like character. Adelaide Hills Pinot Soft, well-made, Grigio 2010 HHH creamy, green apple Light floral/honeydew palate. $18 melon bouquet and pleasant, citrus- flavoured palate with acidic finish. $18110 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

Golden Grove Stefano de Pieri “ varietal tastingEstate Granite Hills Tre Viti 2010 HHHVermentino Fruit-driven wine “The leading importer2010 HHHH with candied sherbet of quality SpanishQuite a flinty/slatey characters. Citrusy nose wines into Australiacharacter to the nose, and light melon/citrus by far!and a lovely fresh, flavours. $16.99 The result in thenectarine-flavoured blind tasting showspalate showing great OTHER this fact.minerality and a clean, ITALIAN RED Peter Simiccrisp finish. $30 VARIETALS Winestate Editor, January 2011Oliver’s Taranga 17 TASTED the spanish acquisition Vineyards Small 6 AWARDEDBatch McLaren Vale Representing 40+ of the best producersFiano 2010 HHH1/2 “A mixed bag of wines, from Spain and Portugal.Herbal/nutty nose with with the winemakersan aniseed element, and still learning how to Consumer and wholesale enquiries canexcellent focus of floral/ make them,” said one be directed to The Spanish Acquisitiongreen apple flavours judge. Potentially these phone: (03) 9495 6373with a creamy/nutty are worth preserving, email: [email protected]. $24 offering consumers web: thespanishacquisition.com something different.Coriole VineyardsMcLaren Vale Fiano Tallavera Grove2010 HHH1/2 Hunter ValleyBeautiful nose of fresh Sagrantinoflowers and spices. 2009 HHHHCreamy palate with Big, robust wine withgood balance of citrus/ some intense aromaspineapple flavours. and a well-texturedWarm finish. $25 palate that has lovely flavour concentrationTallavera Grove and complexity. $30Hunter ValleyVermentino Amadio Barossa2010 HHH Valley AglianicoDelicate nose with an 2009 HHH1/2herbal edge. Touch Smells of ripe berries andof spritzig on a green blackberry jam. Greatapple palate. Some blackberry flavour intensitysweetness. $18 with drying tannins and good acidity. $25OTHERITALIAN Jacob’s CreekWHITE BLENDS Limited Release South East Australia5 TASTED Dolcetto Lagrein3 AWARDED 2007 HHH1/2 Nose of dried herbsZonte’s Footsteps and flowers, with a niceThe Love Symbol weighty, well-balanced,Langhorne Creek juicy palate full of ripeSavignin Blanc berry fruits. $252010 HHH1/2Lovely crisp, clean wine Banrock Stationwith a beautifully lifted Mediterraneanfloral nose and zesty Montepulcianocitrus palate. Would be 2009 HHHgreat with a salad! $15.99 Capsicum and blackberry characters mingle onSalena Estate Ink the nose. Slightly warm,Series Bianco oaky palate. $16D”Alessano2010 HHHClean mineral noteson the citrus nose, andcrisp dry white flavourswith a drying finish. $15 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 111

ITA LIAN & SPANISHSerafino Bellissimo Prince Hill Mudgee Prunotto PianAdelaide Lagrein Barbera 2010 HHH Romualdo Barbera2009 HHH Intense, peppery nose; D’Alba 2006 HHHQuite a complex nose, lovely violet nuances. Savoury/leathery nosewith a touch of mint and Ripe, simple berry and a powerful tannicjuicy dark cherry flavours. palate. Good acid/tannin palate - quite savoury. $15Good tannins. $18 balance. $19 Michelini Wines NEBBIOLOAmadio Barossa Alpine ValleyValley Sagrantino Barbera 2009 HHH 20 TASTED2009 HHH Bright cherry/violet 11 AWARDEDRipe and earthy on the aromas. Very goodnose, and with a very palate with pretty cherry A polarising varietalapproachable, ripe, rich, fruits. Still very young. which seems to changecherry palate. $25 in the glass from one 3-5 $18.50 end to the other. SomeBARBERA Golden Grove Estate excellent wines here to Granite Belt Barbera choose from with lovely10 TASTED 2009 HHH savoury aspects and5 AWARDED Toasty cherry bouquet grip that is ideal with and quite hot and oaky food. Some wines hadLoads of acid and in the mouth. Good barrel contamination andvibrant fruit here! acid level maintains winemaking issues. freshness. $20 Scrimaglio Rocca Produttori del Nivo Barbera d’Asti Barbaresco Delle DOC Superiore Langhe Nebbiolo 2007 HHH1/2 2008 HHHH Ripe cherry nose with a Attractive earthy/herbal touch of green. Lovely nose - smells of the forest and silky in the mouth, floor. Chewy, savoury with more of the cherry- palate with good tannin like characters. $28.99 structure. Still a baby, with cellaring potential. 3-5 $49.90112 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

varietal tasting Villa Borghetti Villa Borghetti Produttori del Pasqua Amarone Pasqua Ripasso Barbaresco Riserva DOC Classico Valpolicella Asili Barbaresco 2006 HHH1/2 2008 HHH 2005 HHH Big, bold prune and Not typically varietal Lovely bouquet and big, black olive nose, and but a good wine. well-balanced palate with rich, warm and spicy Peppery/capsicum nose a good core of fruit and palate with very intense and vibrant, peppery powerful tannins. $135 flavours. $55 palate. $25 Pokolbin Estate SANGIOVESE Trentham La Belebula Hunter 2009 Famiglia Nebbiolo Valley Nebbiolo 2008 HHH 2006 HHH 6 TASTED Big, juicy wine with very Sweet, simple style with 1 AWARDED pretty spicy fruit and vanillin oak nose, high- some well managed acid palate with good As this variety has tannins. 3-5 $16 tannin structure. $25 natural tannins it does Michael Unwin not require excessiveThorn-Clarke Fermoy Estate Brokenwood Wines Umbrella Man use of oak.Morello Barossa Margaret River Beechworth Barbera 2006 HHHValley Nebbiolo Nebbiolo Nebbiolo 2008 HHH Vibrant cola aromas with a Watershed Senses2008 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 Leafy aromas with hint of boot polish. Palate Margaret RiverBeautiful wine smelling Beautiful earthy/floral cherries and licorice. dominated by oak but has Sangioveseof blackcurrants, and a fragrances with obvious Some powerful acid the fruit to carry it. $26 2009 HHH1/2big, juicy, savoury palate peppery characters. on the cherry palate. Produttori del Smoky/peppery nosewith a lovely core of Lovely core of berry fruit Barbaresco DOCG with oaky overtones,fruit and good level of on the palate. Still very 3-5 $25 Barbaresco and a lovely complex,tannins. Built to last. $20 young. $30 2006 HHH gamey palate with lovely Subdued nose with an drying tannins. $24.95 alcoholic lift. Quite hot and porty in the mouth, with chalky tannins. $92.50 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 113

ITA LIAN & SPANISHSANGIOVESE Cecchi Teuzzo Geoff Merrill Hamiltons Bluff2008/2007 Chianti Classico Wickham Park Canowindra 2007 HHH1/2 McLaren Vale Sangiovese17 TASTED Big, bold, black olive Sangiovese 2004 HHH bouquet. Good fruit 2006 HHHH Big, alcoholic wine with7 AWARDED weight on palate, Lovely lift of spicy oak slight herbal red cherry with velvety-smooth on the nose with vanillin fruit and evolving tertiarySome of the ‘08s suffered tannins and sangiovese oak dominating the characters. $25from barrel contamination “spikiness”. $38 sweet fruit palate. Someand a number showed good fruit tannins and a SANGIOVESEearly development Richmond Grove long, warm finish. $25 BLENDScharacteristics. Tannins Limited Release Pokolbin Estatein the ‘07s were generally Mt Lofty Ranges Belebula Hunter 7 TASTEDhard and ‘chunky’. Sangiovese Valley Sangiovese 4 AWARDEDBut the best wines had 2007 HHH 2005 HHH1/2bright fruit on the mid- Really elegant, beautifully Nice medium-weight, Some good tanninpalate, fine savoury fruit crafted example of fruit-driven wine, long structure coming fromand oak tannins. the variety. Well put and balanced, with the other varietals, together. $21.99 currant and sweet which complements theMount Burrumboot Dromana Estate plum-like fruit and drying sangiovese.Estate Heathcote i Range Heathcote Isole E Olena Chianti tannins. $22Sangiovese Sangiovese Classico 2007 HHH Geoff Merrill Zonte’s Footsteps2007 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2 Complex, spicy, McLaren Vale Canto di LagoDistinctively New Floral nose with subtle perfumed and caramel- Sangiovese Langhorne CreekWorld style with bright, oak and lovely balance like aromas, with similar 2004 HHH1/2 Sangiovese Barberafruity nose showing of cherry fruit, oak and characters on the lovely Good example of 2008 HHHHa violet-like lift and a fine tannins on the palate. $45 style - very complex Lovely oak/red berrysweet palate, round and palate. $19.95 and lively, with a floral nose and beautifully long,generous and full of Savignola Paolina accent to the nose and rich palate that’s brightjuicy red fruits. $30 Rosso di Toscana Il great concentration of with juicy red fruits and Granaio 2007 HHH flavour. $25 some mouth-puckering Pokolbin Estate Subtle Vegemite and Massoni Pyrenees tannins. $18.99 Belebula Hunter cola aromas, and a ripe, Sangiovese Valley Sangiovese oaky palate with a warm 2006 HHH Renards Folly 2007 HHH1/2 finish. $65 Delicate wine with slight McLaren Vale Quite a funky black green, cherry-like fruit Sangiovese fruit nose with oak in a SANGIOVESE and consistent tannin Cabernet 2009 HHH supporting role. Good 2006 & OLDER structure. $25 Confectionery berry fruit concentration on Savignola Paolina bouquet with a floral the palate. Grippy finish. 12 TASTED Riserva Chianti touch. Elegant palate. 7 AWARDED Classico DOCG Lovely sweet fruit. $16.95 3-5 $22 2006 HHH Sangiovese can dry Nose not giving much All Saints Estate out with age, so some away. Palate lightweight Rutherglen of these had met their and spicy, with green Sangiovese use-by date! The best, olive-like characters. $60 Cabernet 2008 HHH however, held their Pieve di Santa Slightly hot and vibrancy and offered Restituta Brunello alcoholic, with cherry/ aged complexity. di Montalcino berry and black olive 2005 HHH fruit characters. $20 STAR RATINGS  Medium-weight wine with cherry fruits, Hollick HollaiaThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of grippy tannins and spicy Wrattonbullyexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. ripeness. $100 SangioveseAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Cabernet 2008 HHHprofessionals and are compared in peer Big, juicy New Worldclasses by three judges. style with prettyCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, fruit and good tannina major mail-order business. structure. $21CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 160. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).114 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

IMBOTTIGLIATO ALL’ORIGINE DAI PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO Soc. Coop. t.l. - BARBARESCO - ItaliaImported and distributed in Australia by L Di Santo Pty Ltd Trading as Enoteca Sileno920 Lygon Street Carlton North Vic 3054 p. 03 9389 7000 e. [email protected]

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINBAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYOLD FARM’S zinfandel, viognier and cabernet sauvignonREJUVENATION and one ring-in -an Eden Valley riesling.VISITING Hentley Farm’s cellar door at Hentley Farm is open seven days aSeppeltsfield is like taking a step back week 10am-5pm. It is on the cornerin time. The quintessentially Barossa of Gerald Roberts and Jenke roads,vineyard was originally an old farming Seppeltsfield. Phone (08) 8562 8427;property, established in the early 1800s. It www.hentleyfarm.com.au.was acquired by owners Keith and AlisonHentschke in the mid-1990s and began VIETNAM MEETS BAROSSAproducing wines in 2002. BAROSSA winemakers have a new The tasting room is in the farm’s original meeting place - Pan-Asian restaurant1840s cottage that was once used as a FermentAsian in Tanunda. Chef-ownershearing shed. It has been restored and Tuio Do, who was born in remote northern beef with a salad of fresh herbs), lon khorenovated to create a beautiful modern Vietnam, and her partner, Grant Dickson Ha Noi (Hanoi caramel Barossa Berkshirefeel while still retaining the charm of the old of Rockford Wines, plan to have top-name pork belly) and tom sao nghe (stir-friedcottage. The Tally Room is used for private guest chefs hosting dinners, and regular South Australian prawns with fresh turmerictastings for wine club members, while the guest winemakers are also on the agenda. and Thai basil).tasting area offers hosted degustationmeals (prior reservations essential) in The food has its roots firmly entrenched The wine list has been put together bya private dining room. The degustation in her Vietnamese heritage - and that of Grant, who describes his philosophy:menus, prepared by consultant chef Cole her parents - with several other South-East “Because the food ranges from dishes ofThomas from Culinetic, aim to challenge the Asian cuisines also represented, and local great subtlety and delicacy to dishes withnotions of traditional wine and food pairings, produce will be featured. She also plans to robust, spice-laden (though rarely fierce)presenting dishes such as kingfish sashimi sell her own pastes and Asian vegetables. flavours, I have tried to select wines whichwith horseradish, wasabi and fennel pollen, “Since my parents arrived in the Barossa pirouette rather than stomp.”paired with a 2010 viognier, or quail with foie they have transformed our home gardensgras, chestnut, date foam and pine powder into miraculous vegetable gardens growing FermentAsian is open for luncheswith a 2009 zinfandel. all manner of vegetables and herbs that are Thursday to Sunday and dinners intrinsic to our cuisine,” she says. Wednesday to Saturday. Bookings are Hentley Farm is one of the Barossa’s rising available for groups at other times by priorstars; a single-estate producer using fruit Starters include nem Ha Noi (Hanoi arrangement. You’ll find it at 90 Murray St,grown on the banks of Greenock Creek. spring rolls with fresh herbs and nuoc Tanunda; phone (08) 8563 0765; www.The repertoire includes three single-block, cham sauce) and gio mia Sai Gon (Saigon fermentasian.com.au.premium shirazes, The Beauty, The Beast sugar-cane prawns with peanut dippingand the Clos Otto, along with grenache, sauce). Main choices feature the likes of LUNCH AT LEHMANN’S goi bo den (grilled Barossa black angus THE PETER Lehmann cellar door in Tanunda is one of the first on the list for most visitors to the Barossa - with the legendary lunchtime Weighbridge Platter offering a selection of traditional local flavours. The platter features regional tastes including Linke’s mettwurst and lachsschinken sausages, Barossa Valley cheeses, Apex bread, Maggie Beer pate and Barossa Bark crispbreads, which can be enjoyed with a glass or bottle of wine on the verandah, or picnic-style under the old gum trees that dot the property.116 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

travelbriefs For a really special experience, Lehmann’s Vineyard tours are held daily at 11.15am and The unique tour features the vineyards ofGarden Table is scheduled as part of the 3.15pm and cost $12.50 a person. Henschke’s Hill of Grace Shiraz, Yalumba’sBarossa Vintage Festival on April 27 and will Tri-Centenary Grenache, Peter Lehmann’sfeature fine wines and a hearty menu using There are several walking trails that Riverflat Botrytis Semillon, Langmeil’s 1843produce fresh from the Lehmann family guests are invited to enjoy before or after Freedom and Orphan Bank Shiraz andgardens. The lunch costs $95 per person and their tasting and several ‘cellar exclusives’ Seppeltsfield Old Vine Grenache, as wellbookings can be made on (08) 8563 2100. are available, including the chance to take as the Scholz Estate Ebenezer vineyard home a wine with a personalised label that and visits to multiple-generation growers forVINTAGE LUXURY can be printed on site. John Duval, St Hallett and First Drop Wines.THE NOVOTEL Barossa Valley is a long- The restaurant menu, put together by The Legends Behind the Barrel, meanwhile,time favourite of visitors to the region, and executive chef Veronica Zahra and head offers an opportunity to meet and chat witha close neighbour to several wineries. It is chef Josh Trevena, uses Barossa produce several of the country’s leading winemakersoffering a special package for Australia’s when possible and features suggested at one venue and sample unreleased winesoldest and longest-running wine festival - wine matches. Think dishes such as direct from the barrels, including severalthe Barossa Vintage Festival. from boutique wineries.Available throughout the Barossa’s chorizo and fetta-stuffed baby squid withvintage season, from March 1 to May mango and mizuna salad or Fleurieu The Rare and Distinguished Barossa Wine1 (subject to availability), the package Peninsula lamb rack, red gum smoke Auction will be held on April 29 at Penfoldsincludes overnight accommodation, infused, and served with lemon/rosemary in Nuriootpa, with several one-off lots andbuffet breakfast, dinner for two in Harry’s potatoes, pea puree and jus. Jacob’s Creek older vintages of sought-after labels. Forrestaurant and a complimentary bottle is open daily from 10am-5pm except Good the first time in the festival’s history, a seriesof Valley Floor Shiraz from the award- Friday and Christmas Day. Phone (08) 8521 of centrally coordinated wine workshopswinning Langmeil Wines from $413 per 3000; www.jacobscreek.com.au. will be run at a range of Barossa wineriesroom per night. over the course of the week. ParticipatingAll 140 recently refurbished rooms offer TOUR SOME FAMOUS wineries include St Hallett, Rusden, Turkeydeluxe queen or king beds, iPod docking VINEYARDS Flat and Seppeltsfield, and masterclassesstations, LCD TVs and balconies with views will cover a range of topics encompassingacross the valley. Other resort facilities WHILE the Barossa Vintage Festival offers the everything from fortifieds and single-include a swimming pool and barbecue chance to relax and enjoy the region’s cellar vineyard shiraz to blending and glassware.area and outdoor pool table. Phone (08) doors, it also includes a number of events that Visit www.barossavintagefestival.com.au8524; www.novotelbarossa.com.au. will appeal to serious wine lovers - including for full festival program details. the Distinguished Vineyards day. The day-JACOB’S CREEK long tour offers the chance to taste, touch, LYNDOCH LUXURYFOR LEARNERS smell, hear and tour the sights of the Barossa, to view the famous vineyards, taste iconic BAROSSA Shiraz Estate at LyndochEVER wondered whether shiraz vines look wines and listen to growers discuss their recently opened a new purpose-builtdifferent to cabernet sauvignon vines, or Barossa heritage and the winemakers’ talk accommodation area with two separatewhether riesling grapes are a different size of their passion behind these famous wines. apartments, The Vines and The Loft.to chardonnay? A visit to the Jacob’s Creek Both apartments feature ornate highVisitors’ Centre demonstration vineyard at ceilings, luxury fixtures and fittings, kingRowland Flat should satisfy your curiosity. bedrooms and en suites with spa baths.The vineyard features rows of several The larger Loft cottage also features twodifferent varieties and it is fascinating to see additional bedrooms, making it perfect fortheir similarities and differences - including groups travelling together, and both boasttheir pace of development. vineyard views through picture windows. See www.barossashirazestate.com or Inside the centre, visitors can enjoy a casual phone (08) 8333 3103.or structured wine tasting or participate ina sensory workshop, learn more about the Above: Barossa vintage festival winery dinner.history of Jacob’s Creek in an interpretive Opposite page:gallery or lunch at Jacob’s Restaurant. Left: Hentley Farm Tally Room. Right: Novotel Barossa resort and pool. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 117

200 TASTED124 AWARDEDB AROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYAnother strong result from this premium Australian Kellermeister Barossa Simpatico Wines Barossawine region. While there were some disappointing Valley Sauvignon Blanc Viognier 2009 HHHresults with the cabernet and shiraz blends, most 2010 HHH Smells of preserved lemonsother categories delivered. Highlights were the top- Intense, lifted, pungent aromas and shows toasty developmentflight rieslings, alternative whites and reds and, not with excellent varietal flavours with fresh, lively varietalsurprisingly, shiraz across all vintages. that are fresh and zesty. $16 flavours. $23SPARKLING Grant Burge East Yalumba The Virgilius Eden Argyle Barossa Pinot Gris Valley Viognier 2008 HHH3 TASTED 2010 HHH Big, flavoursome style with2 AWARDED Some light pear skin characters lovely toasty apricot characters on the nose. Very soft in the and development. Great with mouth, with crunchy pear food. $49.95 flavours. $23 RIESLING 29 TASTED 18 AWARDEDThorn-Clarke Sandpiper Great class! “These areBrut Reserve Chardonnay varietals with great structurePinot Noir NV HHH and consistency across theSpicy red berry bouquet and board. One of Australia’s iconicsoft, rich, red fruit palate with regions for riesling.nice biscuity complexity. $18Peter Lehmann Black Rosenvale VineyardsQueen Sparkling Shiraz Old Vines Reserve Barossa2006 HHH Semillon 2010 HHHVery ripe plum fruit nose with Fuller style with buttery/toastya touch of black olives, and a elements mingling with limelong, creamy palate with soft juice and citrus blossom.tannins. $40 3-5 $39OTHER WHITE Peter LehmannVARIETALS Margaret Barossa Peter Lehmann& BLENDS Semillon 2005 HHHHH Art Series Barossa This golden wine is a beautiful Semillon 2009 HHH15 TASTED example of a perfectly aged Lovely varietal nose - smells11 AWARDED semillon with pure varietal of cut hay. Well-balanced fruit expression. Has loads palate with perfect flavour Peter LehmannA consistent group of quality, of toasty/orange marmalade Wigan Eden Valleydrinkable wines with subtle rather characters on the nose, which ripeness. 3-5 $12 Riesling 2005 HHHHHthan overt varietal characters with are echoed on the palate. $30one benchmark semillon. Simpatico Wines Peter Lehmann Clancy’s Classic aged riesling with a Barossa Valley Viognier Barossa Semillon toasty nougat bouquet and 2010 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH lifted perfumed character. Fragrant, floral aromas with Simple grassy nose and full Palate still amazingly fresh, some jasmine-like sweetness. flavoured sweet capsicum-like with great flavour development Lively, flavoursome palate palate with some nice acid to and good level of ‘natural’ at the greener end of the balance. $13 acidity. 5+ $30 spectrum, with mouthwatering acidity. $23 Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper New Eden Eden Valley Eden Valley Pinot Gris Riesling 2010 HHHHH Simpatico Wines 2009 HHH Classic Barossa style of riesling Barossa Valley Semillon Interesting aromas reminiscent with quite intense, floral-like 2010 HHH1/2 of apple pies. Very long, pleasant, esters and a lovely perfumed Lithe and zesty wine filled with ripe melon/pear flavours. $15 lift. Loads of lime and lemon lovely spicy/grassy characters flavours with plenty of acidity layered with minerally citrus and a long, grippy finish. $21.32 elements. 3-5 $23118 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

regional tasting Eden Springs High Eden Riesling 2009 HHHH Already showing a lot of toasty bottle development for an ‘09; even has slight kero elements. Good depth of varietal fruit balanced by vibrant acidity. Drinking well now. $19.90Heggies ReserveEden Valley Riesling2005 HHHHHGreat wine with very complexaromas; lots of citrus andflorals with lovely toastydevelopment. Intense,mouthwatering acidity drivesthe beautifully layered,flavoursome palate. $28.95Winter Creek Eden ValleyRiesling 2010 HHHH1/2Greenish nose - more herbaland leafy. Very tight palate Rileys of Eden Valleyverging on austere - for now - The Family Eden Valleywith fresh lime juice flavours Riesling 2010 HHHHand high level of acid. Plenty of Big, commercial style withlife ahead. 5+ $18 pristine lemon aromas showing a floral edge. Lovely spicy/Jacob’s Creek floral flavours with a nice clean,Steingarten Barossa astringent finish. $16Riesling 2010 HHHH1/2 Saltram MamreLifted lemon sherbet nose Brook Eden Valleythat’s very fresh and quite Riesling 2008 HHHHdelicate. Lively, racy palate Looks remarkably fresh for awith well-defined lemon juice 2008. Beautifully structuredflavours and zingy acidity. Great wine with lovely fruit weightquaffer! $33.99 and balancing acidity with apple and grapefruit-like flavours. $23 Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Eden Valley Riesling 2010 HHH1/2 Quite complex minerally aromas with some wet limestone elements. Plenty happening on the very flavoursome palate. 3-5 $15Peter Lehmann Art Series Penfolds KoonungaEden Valley Dry Riesling Hill Autumn Riesling2009 HHHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2Very youthful citrus/floral Citrus characters dominatebouquet, and well-structured the fresh and lifted nose.and nicely balanced palate with Lovely fruit expression on theabundant lovely lemony varietal palate, underscored with racyfruit flavours with some floral acidity. $35elements. $18Trevor Jones Reserve Pewsey Vale TheEden Valley Riesling Contours Eden Valley2008 HHHH1/2 Riesling 2005 HHH1/2Lovely perfumed riesling fruit Lots of lovely honeyed,aromas; smells of rose petals toasty and carameland orange blossom. Plenty development layered withof varietal fruit flavours on a citrusy fruit and mouthwateringfresh and mouthwateringly acid acidity. 3-5 $29.95palate. $25 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 119

BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYPeter Lehmann Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Pepperjack Barossa Tscharke The PotterArt Series Classic Barossa Eden Valley Chardonnay Grenache Rosé 2010 HHHH Barossa Valley GarnachaRiesling 2010 HHH 2009 HHHH Almost magenta in colour and 2009 HHHDistinctly different style Interesting nose; smells smoky brimming over with raspberry, Jammy/floral nose with sweetthat smells of bath salts and with characters such as clotted rhubarb and blackcurrant-like esters, and sweet/sour flavourshas sweet, estery, tropical cream, yeast and preserved fruit. Some sweetness, with on a warm tannin palate. $18.28flavours. $12 lemons. Complex, creamy perfect acid/tannin balance. $23 palate with nice oak presence Glaymond El AbueloNeil Hahn Yanyarrie and vibrancy. 3-5 $15 GRENACHE Barossa Valley GrenacheBarossa Valley Riesling & BLENDS 2008 HHH2010 HHH Krondorf Symmetry Estery raspberry and floralLifted confectionery/tropical Eden Valley Chardonnay 13 TASTED aromas. Well-balanced palatearomas and intense 2008 HHH1/2 8 AWARDED with lifted fruit flavours and oakflavours; good sweet/acid Rich style with ripe fruit/toasty freshness. 3-5 $19.88integration. $14.95 age aromas. Spicy fruit layered This variety does well in theGrant Burge Thorn Eden with very good line of nutty oak Barossa region and here we McGuigan The ShortlistValley Riesling 2010 HHH on the palate. $40.99 see some good results. Fresh GSM Barossa ValleySubtle lemony lift to the nose, is best here! Grenache Shirazwith plenty of lemons on Berton Vineyard Reserve Mourvedre 2008 HHHthe tightly woven, minerally Eden Valley Chardonnay Penfolds Bin 138 Closed, inky nose and rich darkpalate. $23 2009 HHH Barossa Grenache Shiraz berry palate with savoury notesHeggies Eden Valley Plenty of peach-like fruit with Mourvedre 2009 HHHH1/2 and dense tannins. $25Riesling 2010 HHH creamy complexity and soft, Obvious earthy/eucalyptAttractive and delicate juicy acidity. $18.99 characters on the nose, which Yelland & Papps Devoteblossom and apple skin are echoed on the palate. Good Barossa Valley Old Vinebouquet with lovely long, juicy Bethany Barossa red berry fruit weight edged Grenache 2008 HHHlime flavours. $23.95 Chardonnay 2009 HHH with soft tannins. Has excellent Pruney fruit cake nose, andOrlando St Helga Eden Nice stone-fruit/fig-like varietal structure and length. $30 sweet, balanced, varietally correctValley Riesling 2009 HHH characters with subtle oak, palate with soft tannins. $32Pleasant, simple quaffer with soft acid and toasty age Yalumba Barossaloads of squeaky-clean stone- developing. $20 Bush Vine Grenache OTHER REDfruit flavours. $20.99 2009 HHHH VARIETALS Greg Norman Eden Valley Quite Rhone-like, with tarry/ & BLENDSCHARDONNAY Chardonnay 2009 HHH inky blackcurrant jam aromas Complex nutty/yeasty bouquet and sweet dark berry flavours 16 TASTED10 TASTED and rich, minerally palate with with tight tannins, good level of5 AWARDED some complexity. $175 oak and lively acidity. $18.95 11 AWARDEDSolid class! Lots of fruit flavourhere, with good winemaking ROSE Yelland & Papps Delight Some unusual varieties here,maximising the quality from Barossa Valley Grenache with some standouts with thethis region. 4 TASTED Shiraz 2009 HHHH tempranillo and saperavi. Rich, tarry plum aromas “The Barossa is a hot spot 2 AWARDED with leafy complexity and for trying out Mediterranean lifted spirit. Fresh, bright red varieties,” said one judge. A couple of nice examples! fruit flavours showing nice “Lots to look forward to!” Yelland & Papps Delight earthiness and soft, juicy Barossa Valley Grenache tannins. $19.95 Rosé 2010 HHHH Spicy floral raspberry/cherry Orlando Gramps nose, and great balance and Barossa Valley Grenache length of spicy varietal fruit 2009 HHH1/2 with soft, dusty tannins and a Earthy characters on the delicate hint of mint. $18 very ripe, fruity nose, and slightly syrupy, prune-like flavours. Excellent varietal example. $16.99DAY 1 - JUDGES Daniel Swincer Nigel Dolan Winemaker with Chief winemaker for Glenn James Orlando Wines for Wyndham Estate Wines. Winemaker and Director of the past seven years. Formerly Group Red Ducks in a Row Winemakers Has completed the winemaker for the Fosters an independent and boutique Advanced Wine Wine Group and Saltram label based in Adelaide. Assessment Course. chief winemaker. Previously Glenn is an experienced Associate judge at senior winemaker and senior wine show judge and Adelaide wine show manager at Seppelt Wines. is the former Group Red and and has vintaged in 10 years’ experience as Group White winemaker for Napa, California. senior judge with national Foster’s Wine Estates and and regional wine shows. Group White winemaker for the Hardy Wine Company.120 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

regional tasting AuctionTscharke Only Son Running with Bulls World’sBarossa Valley Barossa Tempranillo best wineTempranillo Graciano 2010 HHHH2008 HHHHH Typical purple colour and lovely pricesSmoky/oaky nose with spicy, rhubarb-like aromas withbrooding blue fruits and a quite a feral character. Lively, Do you want the real winebig dash of black pepper. juicy, mouthwatering purple price story? Do you wantLong, fresh and spicy in the fruit flavours. $19.95mouth, with loads of flavour Thorn-Clarke to check trends?underscored by soft, furry Shotfire Barossatannins. $18.28 Quartage 2008 HHHH Sterling Wine Auctions & Earthy/leathery aromas with Exchange has the world’s a light minty lift, and an inky/ tarry palate that has length and best Wine Auction sale structure and a good level of price database. mineral-like characters. $20 Every bottle sold over Tscharke The Curse the past ten years, Barossa Valley Zinfandel 2008 HHHH perfectly searchable and Very attractive ripe raisin nose cross referenced. and some excellent vibrant varietal fruit flavours with well- And it’s Free! Just go matched, mouthwatering acidity to the Web site. Sterling and nicely balanced oak. $23.65 Wine Auctions, specialists since 1992, offering full Tim Smith Wines Barossa Mataro Grenache Shiraz Live Online E-trading 2009 HHH1/2 to clients all over the Rich, dark red berry bouquet. world and Old Fashioned Lovely and lush and juicy in the mouth, with loads of sweet personal service. fruit and soft tannins. $28 FREE AuctionPatritti Barossa Valley Dorrien Estate The Valleys Catalogues and FREESaperavi 2009 HHHH1/2 Barossa Valley Merlot Bidder Registration.Very interesting dense, inky 2009 HHHstyle of wine with an incredible Fragrances of violets and Phone Lynton for a chatconcentration of soft, spicy dried herbs, with sweet dark on 08 9388 9955fruits and a fabulous core of fruit flavours and nice drying or 0418 949 837,velvety-smooth tannins. All it tannins. $19.99 or log onneeds now is more time. $14 Grant Burge Hillcot Barossa Merlot 2009 HHH www.sterlingwine.com.au Well-made Bordeaux style with spicy ripe berry fruits STERLING underscored by sweet vanillin oak. $23 Wine Auctions & Exchange DAY 2 - JUDGESMatt Holdstock Troy KalleskeSenior Oenologist with Winemaker and co-ownerthe Australian Wine of Kalleske Wines.Research Institute. Previously with SouthcorpHas vintaged in South Group, including Penfolds,Australia, Sonoma Seppelt and Lindemans.(California), and Bordeaux Also vintaged with Kendall(France). Associate judge Jackson in California.at the Australian Small Associate judge at theWinemaker’s Show. Barossa wine show. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 121

BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYTscharke The Master Yalumba The Scribbler Fox Gordon King Louis SHIRAZ BLENDSBarossa Valley Barossa Cabernet Barossa Valley CabernetMontepulciano 2009 HHH Sauvignon Shiraz Sauvignon 2008 HHHH 12 TASTEDFragrant fruit aromas and 2008 HHH1/2 Lifted spicy plum nose leads 4 AWARDEDgood concentration of fleshy Lovely youthful fragrances and to a dense, tight palate withfruit flavours with lots of a warm persistence of dark a great varietal fruit core Top marks for the best winesacidity. $23.65 plum fruit with some very fine and showing a good tannin here. Nice combinations.Tim Smith Wines Barossa tannins in support. $19.95 softness and length. $44.95Mataro 2009 HHH Pepperjack Barossa Saltram Winemaker’sBig, old-fashioned style; earthy Peter Lehmann Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon Selection Barossaand rustic on the nose and with Barossa Cabernet Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Valley Shiraz Tempranillolovely racy, tarry flavours. $32 2008 HHH Lovely chocolaty/minty bouquet 2008 HHHHHKurtz Family Sweet caramel bouquet with and lively, youthful palate with Dense, inky colour withVineyards Seven Sleepers subtle tobacco notes. Solid plenty of fleshy, sweet varietal youthful licorice andBarossa Valley Red Blend cedar oak mingles with the fruit flavours. $27 blackcurrant bouquet and a2008 HHH fruity flavours. $12 Saltram Mamre Brook very good core of intense,Lovely ripe, fleshy red fruit Barossa Cabernet youthful varietal fruit nicelycharacters supported by some CABERNET Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 layered with lovely velvetysubtle oak. Has weight and SAUVIGNON Big, rich, fleshy wine with tannins. Drinking well now. $50texture. $16 dense, chocolaty aromas and 20 TASTED good depth and length of Pepperjack Barossa ShirazCABERNET 11 AWARDED chocolate/plum flavours. $33 Viognier 2008 HHHHBLENDS Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Vibrant, easy-to-drink wine Generally disappointing across Barossa Cabernet exhibiting balance, life and7 TASTED some difficult vintages. The Sauvignon 2009 HHH length. The nose has spicy3 AWARDED better vineyards and winemakers Sweet, leafy plum nose and plum/floral aromas and theAs one judge said, “The showed how it should be done. soft, rich, sweet fruit palate; palate jubey fruit flavours withdifficult vintages in 2008 and fresh and vibrant wine. $15 soft tannins. $272007 determine the outcome.” Peter Lehmann The McLean’s Farm Barossa Mentor Barossa Cabernet Valley Cabernet Karra Yerta Wines BarossaYalumba The Signature Sauvignon 2006 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon 2009 HHH Ranges Shiraz CabernetBarossa Cabernet Beautifully fragrant tarry/ Very pretty wine smelling 2006 HHHHSauvignon Shiraz treacley aromas with similar of violets and blackcurrants Lovely varietal berry fruits that2006 HHHHH characters in the mouth. and tasting slightly green and are still very fresh and showingBright, intense array of aromas Fresh and lively palate with minty. $20.99 earthy/complexity and lovely- black olives, plums and spices. mouthwatering acidity. Years Grant Burge Corryton drying tannins. Long, complexThe tannic palate is long and ahead of it yet. 5+ $40 Park Barossa Cabernet wine that needs food! $25dense and brimming over with Sauvignon 2008 HHHbriary fruit. Great weight and Peter Lehmann Art Strong herbal characters on Kalleske Clarry’s Barossavery fresh for its age. $46.95 Series Barossa Cabernet the nose, with dense, inky fruit Valley Shiraz Grenache Sauvignon 2008 HHHH flavours on a well-structured Mataro 2010 HHH1/2 Genuine varietal characters palate. $42 Vibrant purple wine with lifted on the nose; herbal and minty Elderton Ashmead floral/cassis aromas and a big, with some blackberry and Barossa Cabernet rich, layered dark fruit/tannic olive elements. Palate offers Sauvignon 2008 HHH palate. $18 a mouthful of minty/berry Developed plum aromas and a flavours. $18 rich, well-balanced, chocolaty/ SHIRAZ fruit cake palate. $90 2009/2008 Eden Springs High Eden Cabernet Sauvignon 33 TASTED 2007 HHH 20 AWARDED Very fresh for an ‘07, with a spicy choc-mint nose and leafy Very strong class. “Excellent choc-mint flavours. $24.90 result for the tough 2008 vintage,” said one judge. The panel generally agreed that the region delivered more vibrancy across the board and the “taming down” of oak gave better balance. Saltram Winemaker’s Selection Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHH Loads of pure varietal fruit here, with dense, plummy bouquet and stalky blackcurrant flavours on a well-structured palate with soft tannin length. $50122 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

regional tastingThorn-Clarke Rosenvale VineyardsShotfire Barossa Shiraz Estate Barossa Shiraz2009 HHHHH 2008 HHHH1/2Good depth of crimson Inviting, well-made and veryhues. Inky dark fruit aromas complex wine smelling ofcomplemented by some nice mulberries and olives andtoasty oak. Rich, dense palate exhibiting a lovely palate loaded with juicy black fruit flavours. 3-5 $24with good flavour persistenceand mouth-coating tannins.Very stylish. 5+ $20 Fox Gordon Hannah’s Swing Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Oak-driven nose underscored by some lovely blackberry fruit. Seamless, savoury palate with dense black olive and blackberry-like flavours with a hot finish. 3-5 $44.95 Dolan Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 Big, rich, vibrant wine - still very fresh, with attractive bramble fruit nose and powerful, silky- smooth, tannic palate with dense bramble fruit and chalky acidity. $49Cimicky Trumps Barossa McGuigan The Shortlist The families within Rosenvale strive to bring you aValley Shiraz 2008 HHHHH Barossa Valley Shiraz rewarding Barossa wine experience which starts inBig, solid wine, almost black 2008 HHHH our vineyards and delivers enjoyable wine for yourin colour with a crimson edge. Hints of cedar and leather on next occasion with family and friends. We inviteNose has huge concentration the nose. Very savoury palateof black olive/bramble-like fruit. with dense dark fruit flavours you to try our range of award-winning wines.Lovely rich, ripe fruit palate integrated with polishedwith pencil shaving oak and timber-like oak. Good length Europe Contact ~ Brad Mitton +49 30 2404 5919fine tannins. $18 and structure. $25 Email [email protected] Wines Pepperjack Barossa Shiraz Australia Contact ~ James Rosenzweig +61 8 8562 3533Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 HHHH Email [email protected] HHHH1/2 Rich tapenade and coffeeDark, brooding berry fruit bean aromas, and a fleshynose with seamless oak in palate full of mouthwateringthe background. Ripe, warm dark fruit flavours nicelyand flavoursome blackcurrant/ integrated with fine, dustycassis palate with stand-out tannins. 3-5 $27acidity. 3-5 $35 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 123

BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEY Kurtz Family Vineyards Boundary Row Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 HHH Very oaky nose, with heaps more sweet oak on the palate but has the fruit to carry it. $24 Elderton Barossa Shiraz 2008 HHH Softer, medium-bodied style of shiraz with pleasant blackberry/ coffee bean characters. $27the wines with a heart and soul Kellermeister Black Sash Barossa Valley God’s Hill specialises in handcrafted Shiraz 2008 HHH small batch boutique wines. Lovely inky bramble/tapenade fruit here, with very drying Superb Barossan fruit and traditional tannins and lots of acidity. $30 Italian winemaking methodology Fox Gordon Eight Uncles Tim Smith Wines Barossa combine to make stunning reds and whites. Barossa Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH Charlie Scalzi, Winemaker 2008 HHHH Great example of a Barossa Plum aromas mingle with shiraz, with a complexity of 92+ points James Halliday 2011 treacle and tobacco notes. dark plum fruit, tarry oak and cnr Gilbert St and God’s Hill Road Big, alcoholic palate with good silky tannins. $32 Lyndoch, Barossa Valley South Australia varietal fruit, drying tannins and Lou Miranda Cordon well-handled oak to balance. Cut Individual Vineyard +61 412 836 004 Barossa Valley Shiraz Wines available from 5+ $19.95 2008 HHH www.godshillwines.com Yelland & Papps Divine Bright, lively wine full of Barossa Valley Shiraz vibrant, dark, spicy berry fruit Looking for distributors in Italy, 2008 HHHH with plenty of charry oak Russia, Eastern Europe and China. Dense, brick-red wine with a support. $33.95 savoury oak nose and a thick Simpatico Wines Icon as seen at Vinitaly concentration of syrupy-sweet Barossa Valley Shiraz varietal fruit flavours on the 2008 HHH long, slightly hot palate. $65 Silky/savoury bouquet and big, solid, spicy/oaky palate with mouthwatering acidity. $80 Glaetzer Bishop SHIRAZ Barossa Valley Shiraz 2007 & OLDER 2009 HHH1/2 Spicy/savoury style that’s intense, 32 TASTED rich and flavoursome, with fine, 26 AWARDED well-integrated tannins. Hot on the finish. 5+ $30 It was unanimous - an outstanding class! Great flavour Tim Smith Wines and intensity but also varietal Reserve Barossa Shiraz elegance coming through. 2008 HHH1/2 “The ripeness here is spot on,” Chocolaty nose with lashings noted one judge. “These wines of oak, which is echoed on the have a sense of place and great palate with its lovely ripe, well- length of flavour.” balanced “Barossa flavours”. $58 Saltram No 1 Barossa Peter Lehmann Shiraz 2006 HHHHH Mudflat Barossa Shiraz Excellent wine that has 2008 HHH1/2 intense, complex blackberry/ Some pleasant cedary oak over blueberry-like aromas and a bright and youthful bramble palate that has very fine, long fruit with cleansing acidity and tannins integrated with the rich warming alcohol. 5+ $25 varietal fruit - loads of flavour here. $78 Kalleske Moppa Barossa Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH Nose of molasses, tar and treacle and an attractive, stylish oak and blue/black fruit palate. 5+ $28124 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

regional tastingBethany LE Barossa Jacob’s Creek CentenaryShiraz 2006 HHHHH Hill Barossa ValleyFresh, lighter style of shiraz - Shiraz 2006 HHHHHbut very complex with loads of Lovely, lively wine with verylively varietal fruit, some lovely attractive and very ripe, spicychocolaty oak, old leathery-like varietal fruit with lots of minty/development and evolving eucalypt characters. Has liftedbeautifully. $48 aromas and fresh and lively, spicy flavours. $53.99 Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Barossa Valley Shiraz 2006 HHHH1/2 Complexity of black fruits, tar, leather and earthy aromas - great! Absolutely mouthwatering fruit flavours on a palate showing lots of structure and intensity. $35Yalumba The Octavius Peter LehmannBarossa Shiraz Stonewell Barossa2006 HHHHH Shiraz 2006 HHHH1/2Dense, dark colour verging Lovely complex aromas -on black, with intense, inky smells of brambles, spices andcomplexity to the nose and meaty smallgoods with a hinta lithe, mouthfilling red berry of mint. The dense, thick palatefruit palate that exhibits has mouth-coating dark fruitgreat structure and plenty of flavours. $90finesse. $99.95Wolf Blass PlatinumLabel Barossa Shiraz2006 HHHHHIntense, fragrant and still veryyouthful wine smelling ofblack fruits, spices and pencilshavings oak. Superb palatewith big, ripe tannin structurewith long, vibrant, seamlessflavours. $160 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 125

BAROSSA VALLEY & EDEN VALLEYHartz Barn Wines Saltram Mamre Brook Glaymond The DistanceGeneral Store Barossa Barossa Shiraz 2006 HHHH Barossa Valley ShirazShiraz 2005 HHHH1/2 Big chocolaty/fruit cake style 2007 HHHExcellent development and of shiraz with rich, powerful Savoury prune juice aromascomplexity to the nose - smells aromas and ripe, fleshy palate and interesting syrupy palateof tar, smallgoods and spices with a silky mouthfeel and with good fruit weight andand has youthful, seamless some alcoholic warmth. $33 texture. $19.88varietal flavours on a well- Barossa Valley Estate E&Ebalanced palate. $30 Black Pepper Barossa Richmond Grove LimitedWolf Blass Platinum Valley Shiraz 2006 HHHH Release Barossa VineyardsLabel Barossa Shiraz Earthy/savoury nose with nice Shiraz 2007 HHH2007 HHHH fruit cake-like characters. Palate Dark cherry bouquet withSmells of Christmas cake with still young and lively, with juicy fruit cake notes, and somesome minty elements. Great fruit flavours and very fine lovely jammy/cherry flavours.palate structure - lots of oak tannic backbone. $90but also plenty of red/blue fruit Wolf Blass 3-5 $21.99to match. Will age well. $160 Gold Label Barossa Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 Eden Springs High Eden Fresh, lively and ripe red fruit Shiraz 2007 HHH aromas with a nice eucalypt Loads of oak on the nose and lift, and solid berry flavours a bright, juicy fruit palate. Very with powdery-dry tannins. pretty wine. $24.90 5+ $24 Charles Cimicky The Autograph Barossa Valley Shiraz 2007 HHH Savoury wine with a leathery Poonawatta Estate character to the nose and fleshy God’s Hill The Orphan The 1880 Eden Valley fruit in the mouth. 5+ $40 Barossa Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2 2006 HHH Lovely medium-bodied wine Dorrien Estate Bin 1 Simple, well-aged wine with with spicy/leathery aromas Barossa Valley Shiraz earthy/leathery nose and thick, mingling with cranberry-like 2007 HHH chocolaty palate. $80 fruit. Similar palate. $80 Solid, dark, brooding bouquet and nice and fleshy and SWEET WHITE Winter Creek chocolaty in the mouth. $41.99 & FORTIFIED Barossa Valley Shiraz 2006 HHH1/2 Penfolds RWT Barossa 6 TASTED Fragrant red fruit nose with Shiraz 2007 HHH 3 AWARDED a savoury background, and Stylish wine with bright blue classy, well-structured palate fruit aromatics and big, tannic A couple of good fortifieds with loads of vibrant fruit palate with cranberry flavours. here, but the sweet whites flavours. $30 lacked botrytis complexity. 5+ $175 Saltram Mr PickwicksGod’s Hill Menzel Barossa Saltram The Journal RockBare Barossa Babe Particular TawnyValley Shiraz 2006 HHHH Barossa Valley Shiraz Barossa Valley Shiraz NV HHHH1/2Inky-red wine with oaky nose 2006 HHH1/2 2006 HHH Powerful intensity of raisinand background of cherry fruit. Rich red plum bouquet with Lots of life here, with bright, and prune-like aromas withComplex palate with sweet good oak integration, and a fruity aromas and lots of elegant rancio characters.fruit cake flavours and excellent fine, lithe, young palate with mouthwatering flavours. Nicely balanced palate withacid/tannin balance. $39.50 bright flavours and zippy plenty of flavour and length and acidity. $125 3-5 $39.95 noticeable oak influence. $69.99 STAR RATINGS  Peter Lehmann Eight Winter Creek Fortified Songs Barossa Shiraz Vintage Shiraz 2006Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of 2006 HHH (375ml) HHHHexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Excellent example of the Dark prune aromas with lovelyAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry varietal, with nice olive/minty rancio and spirit complexity.professionals and are compared in peer aromas and mouthwatering Long, soft palate developingclasses by three judges. acid/tannic palate. $40 complex flavour profile withCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, well-integrated spirit. $25a major mail-order business. McGuigan Farms BarossaCD Cellar door price. Valley Shiraz 2006 HHH Leo Buring MediumCDO Cellar door only. Ripe, alcoholic wine with Sweet Eden ValleySO Sold out. dense, tarry, earthy, Riesling 2009 HHH$N/A Price not available at time of printing. smallgoods characters. Needs Genuine riesling varietal nose some air. $70 with good toasty development, Contact information pg 160. and nicely balanced toasty/ citrus palate. $17 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).126 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

MARTINS4703_WE Stonewell. Made from little black jewels. When we first started making wine at Peter Lehmann in 1980, we knew that the Shiraz that came from some vineyards was more intense, muscular and deeper in colour. We’d seen it in the vineyards. ‘Little black jewels’ we called them. From those special parcels of grapes we made a separate Shiraz. We called it Stonewell, Peter Lehmann Wines’ best wine of each vintage and one of the world’s great Shiraz. The PEOPLE, STORIES & WINES THAT MAKE the BAROSSA FAMOUS www.peterlehmannwines.com

347 TASTED164 AWARDEDC H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SStill the biggest volume produced white wine in Australia, McGuiganchardonnay cuts across a range of prices, with a range of styles. Bin Series 7000There is something for every white wine drinker here. Hunter Valley ChardonnayCHARDONNAY Berton Vineyard Moppity Vineyards Bunnamagoo Estate 2009 HHH& BLENDS Foundstone South Lock & Key Mount Lawson Some smoky notes to theUNDER $10 Eastern Australia Tumbarumba Mudgee Chardonnay citrus aromas, followed Unoaked Chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 by a subtle, well-balanced9 TASTED 2010 HHH 2009 HHHH Good food wine with nice palate. $12.992 AWARDED Lifted notes of peach, Flavoursome wine with peach and subtle oak nectarine and fig on the good weight and length sweetness on the nose, Charles Sturt“Simple commercial nose, and a rich and and full of lovely lifted and a palate that has Universitywines with few faults but creamy palate. $8.99 peach and melon fruit poise and balance. $13.99 Chardonnayno great excitement,” characters with some McPherson 2009 HHHagreed the judges. CHARDONNAY nice smoky notes. $14.99 Chardonnay Smells of nougat and $10 - $15 2010 HHH almond meal and has aDe Bortoli Montage Subtle, sweet peach/ nice focus of fruit in theChardonnay 26 TASTED fig aromas and simple mouth. $14.30Semillon 2009 HHHH 8 AWARDED tropical/melon palate.Classy nose - smells Nice drinking. $10.99 McWilliam’sof freshly mown hay “Don’t expect too much Mt Monster Hanwood Estatemingling with peaches flavour at this price.” Limestone Coast Chardonnayand toasty oak. Similar Too many grapes were Chardonnay 2008 HHHcharacters on a palate picked early or had 2010 HHH Subtle, toasty,with lovely acid acid added, resulting Austere green apple buttery nose and quitestructure. $9.90 in sweet/sour or green bouquet and lean, fresh a sweet, Fruit Tingle-like wines. “Unfortunately, apricot palate. $13.95 palate. $11.99 winemakers get little Tolley Cellar return here so don’t put Reserve Chardonnay CHARDONNAY in the extra effort,” said 2010 HHH 2010 one judge. Lovely fresh floral/tropical $15 - $20 nose and refreshing and flavoursome 24 TASTED palate. $13.99 12 AWARDED A more consistent group. “These should be fresh and lively; you don’t have to have great complexity here but these wines should have a bit of character along with youthful vibrancy,” summed up one judge. Rosemount Regional Showcase Robe Chardonnay 2010 HHHHH Very well made and beautifully balanced and flavoursome wine with layers of grapefruit and fig- like fruit and very classy roasted almond/cashew- like oak. 3-5 $19.99128 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

varietal tastingBeach Head by Zilzie Wines Regional Wicks Estate Mission Estate WatermarkCredaro Margaret Collection Yarra Adelaide Hills Winery Hawke’s Bay ChardonnayRiver Chardonnay Valley Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHH2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH 2010 HHH 2009 HHHH Simple, lifted stone-fruitSubtle peach and Peachy aromas with Pungent, tropical Very food-friendly wine nose and sweet fruitnectarine bouquet with some lovely oak. Palate nose and very crisp with honeysuckle and palate with texture anda perfumed lift, and has richness of fruit and refreshing green citrus on the nose and balance. $16lots of fruit sweetness layered with acidity. $15 passionfruit palate. $18 nice flavour richness Clockwork Margaretbalanced by mouth- Fermoy Estate with good fruit weight River Chardonnaywatering acidity. $16 Geographe Vineyards Nepenthe and sweet vanillin oak 2009 HHHShingleback Chardonnay Altitude Adelaide on the palate. $15 Citrus fruit style withMcLaren Vale 2010 HHH Hills Chardonnay Thorn-Clarke subtle hint of cashew-Chardonnay Nose of melons and 2010 HHH Sandpiper Eden like oak and good level2010 HHH1/2 apple blossom, and a Simple, lifted floral/ Valley Chardonnay of acidity. $17.99Excellent example of the long and delicious juicy citrus aromas and lovely 2009 HHHHvariety, with its nutty/ fruit palate. $16 refreshing, high-acid Lovely fresh chardonnayfiggy/nougat nose and Jip Jip Rocks palate. Great drink. $19.90 aromas of nectarineslayers of roasted nuts and Padthaway Unoaked and nougat, and agrapefruit flavours. $18.95 Chardonnay CHARDONNAY creamy palate with loadsPenny’s Hill The 2010 HHH 2009 of sweet, fleshy fruitHandshake Adelaide Clean, refreshing wine $15 - $20 flavours. Has textureHills Chardonnay with lots of grapefruit, and balance. $152010 HHH1/2 pineapple and guava 33 TASTED Ingoldby McLarenFloral nose with nice characters. $17.95 9 AWARDED Vale Chardonnayhoney sweetness, and Wolf Blass Yellow 2009 HHHHcreamy flavours on the Label South Australia A mixed group. and Overtly oaky noselovely long, silky-smooth Chardonnay although the average underscored withpalate. $19 2010 HHH quality is higher than lemon/lime characters,Queens Pinch Nose with very subtle in the 2010s there are followed by a lovely longVineyard Mudgee peach/nougat aromas, no great stars. An extra palate with racy lemonChardonnay and palate with sweet, year allows the wines to flavours layered with2010 HHH peachy flavours. $17.99 come together, which lean acidity. $19.99Fine, elegant style Ashwood the better wines showed, Mount Rileywith a flinty peach nose Stable Hill Adelaide although some wines Marlboroughand long, balanced Hills Chardonnay were a tad over-oaked. Chardonnayflavours. $15 2010 HHH 2009 HHH1/2 No mistaking this is a Refined peach, fig chardonnay, with its and nougat nose, lovely peachy/nectarine and a flavoursome, fruit and subtle oak. $18 buttery, stone-fruit palate with tingly acid backbone. $17.95SIMON HACKETTFourth generation, Barossa Valley born, TRADE ENQUIRIES:Winemaker Simon Hackett established his winery S.A. Chace Agencies 08 8363 7881 [email protected] a fertile hill overlooking McLaren Vale over VIC Working Wine 0407 053 663 [email protected] years ago. Simon Hackett produces a stunning NSW Estate Wine Distributors [email protected] of wines including the very popular limited QLD Estate Wine Distributors 0405 106 207 [email protected] Anthony's Reserve Shiraz and Foggo UK & Europe - ABS Wine Agencies [email protected] Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Drop into Hong Kong - Vins de France Corp (ABS Asia Ltd) [email protected] cellar door for a tasting and take in the Simon Hackett Wines, Budgens Road, McLaren Valestunning panoramic views. (08) 8323 7712 [email protected] March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 129

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SJacob’s Creek 3 Stones Hawkes Cockfighter’s CHARDONNAY MadFish SidewaysReserve South Bay Unoaked Ghost Hunter $20 - $25 Margaret RiverAustralia Chardonnay Chardonnay Valley Unwooded Chardonnay2009 HHH 2007 HHHH Chardonnay 56 TASTED 2009 HHHH1/2It’s all there - the Lifted, honeysuckle-like 2007 HHH1/2 22 AWARDED “A great chardonnay,”nectarine, lemon grass, bouquet and lovely fleshy Leesy/figgy aromas with Some good wines here said one judge.citrus and roasted nut palate that has subtle a dash of lime, and a but the judges expected Lifted, subtle bouquetcharacters. $18.49 smoky citrus flavours, tightly woven lemon/ more from this group, reminiscent of fresh plenty of length and lime palate with hints of looking for elegance meadow flowers. LeanWild Oats Chardonnay excellent texture. $18.99 smokiness. $18.95 and tight structure. and elegant palate with2009 HHH “Lots of cheesy, leesy, fruit well framed byFresh, green aromas Southbank Hawke’s Bimbadgen Ridge buttery styles,” noted great acidity. $20and a long, rich, creamy Bay Chardonnay Chardonnay one judge. Split panel Balgownie Estatepalate with subtle use of 2007 HHHH 2008 HHH results here between Black Label Yarraoak. $18.99 Smells of roasted Lifted aromas of citrus preferences for flinty Valley Chardonnay cashews and hazelnuts blossom and fresh versus opulent styles. 2008 HHHH1/2Berton Vineyard with a perfumed/floral melons, and a full-bodied, Very full and butteryReserve Eden Valley lift. Long, balanced palate creamy palate. $15 Haselgrove Bella wine with subtle peach/Chardonnay still amazingly fresh and Vigna Premium grapefruit complexity2009 HHH very fruity. $18.99 Yalumba Wild Selection Adelaide to the nose and aComplex, developed, Ferment Eden Valley Hills Chardonnay well-balanced, creamybuttery nose, and Cockfighter’s Chardonnay 2009 HHHH1/2 palate with nice zestyabsolutely seamless Ghost Hunter Valley 2008 HHH Great colour, and lovely minerality. $24palate with layers of Chardonnay Subtle aromatic integration of smoky/flavour. $18.99 2007 HHHH fragrances of ginger beer, nutty oak aromas and Very powerful wine pineapple and smoky oak. elements of stone-fruitCHARDONNAY with an abundance of Straightforward characters. Beautiful2008 & OLDER tropical and stone-fruit palate. $18.95 balance of oak, fruit,$15 - $20 aromas. Very creamy malo and acidity creates palate brimming over De Bortoli Gulf a complex palate. $2020 TASTED with fruit sweetness Station Yarra Valley12 AWARDED and flavour. $19.95 Chardonnay 2008 HHHThis line-up of older wines James Oatley Tic Tok Honeyed fruit aromaswas the best in this price Mudgee Pemberton and a clean, flavoursomebracket, according to Chardonnay palate that has length andone judge. There was 2008 HHH1/2 balance. 3-5 $19some winemaking ‘work’ Very lively wine with ainvolved here, such as flinty/citrus nose and Crossroads Winerylees stirring and good oak well-balanced, medium- Hawkes Baymanagement. There were weight palate with a Chardonnaysome fermentation issues nice line of acid. $17.99 2007 HHHin the lesser wines. Pungent, nutty nose - Riversands Inland some toastiness - andHardys Oomoo Way Lightly smoky/citrus flavours withAdelaide Hills Oaked Chardonnay a fine acid spine. $18.99Chardonnay 2008 HHH1/22008 HHHH Lovely honey/nougat Nardone BakerFresh, lifted and complex bouquet, and a leesy and South Australianose smelling of fresh nicely textured palate Chardonnaystone-fruits edged with underscored with a tight 2006 HHHflinty notes. Palate acid spine. 3-5 $19 Creamy/buttery styleexhibits layers of intense with some lovelyfruit flavours. $19.95 toastiness and bottle age characters. $15.95DAY 1 - JUDGESKym Schroeter Richard Angove Andrew La NauzeSenior white winemaker Brand manager for Winemaker at Yalumbafor the Penfolds brand. Angove’s Wines. 5th Winery. PreviouslyHas been a winemaker for Generation of Angove’s winemaker at Norfolk15 years. Has done two family. Has been a Rise, Robe and Stvintages in California with winemaker and marketer Hallett, Barossa Valley.Geyser Peak and Mondavi with vintages in Spain, Has vintaged in Alsacewines. Associate judge at Hunter Valley, Canada & and completed thethe Barossa wine show. Central Victoria. Associate AWRI (Australian Wine judge at Adelaide and Research Institute) wine Victorian wine shows. assessment course.130 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

varietal tastingFermoy Estate Penfolds Thomas Bimbadgen Estate Cuttaway Hill Robert OatleyMargaret River Highland Cool Hunter Valley Southern Highlands Mudgee ChardonnayChardonnay Climate Adelaide Chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHH2009 HHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH Fresh and floralLovely complex nose 2010 HHH1/2 Creamy/leesy nose Overtly oaky nose - fragrances and a light- smoky, nutty and Pale green wine with and palate layered with smells of dried figs - and and simple mid-weightfruity - and a long, well- smoky bacon aromas grapefruit and cashew- a full-flavoured, well- varietal palate. $24.99balanced palate showing and nice fleshiness in like flavours with a fine, balanced fruit palate. $20an excellent core of the mouth, with pithy tight acid spine. $22 Tempus Two Wilde Brokenwoodvarietal fruit and tight, fruit flavours and fine Richmond Grove Chardonnay Beechworthracy acid. $22 acid spine. $21.99 Limited Release 2009 HHH Chardonnay Adelaide Hills Complex, caramel/ 2008 HHHNoonji Estate Hunter Sidewood Adelaide Vineyards fig-like aromas and a Lots of grapefruit andValley Chardonnay Hills Chardonnay Chardonnay palate that is clean and guava characters with2009 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 2008 HHH1/2 textured and full of subtle toasty oak andObvious nougat Tight, youthful, cool- Developed toasty/buttery flavour. $20 good phenolics. $22characters on the climate style with very bouquet with a smoky Logan Orangenose, with some citrus fresh citrus aromas and note. Toasty citrus palate Chardonnay CHARDONNAYelements. Big, buttery a full-flavoured palate wrapped in layers of fine 2009 HHH 2010palate layered with with high level of acidity. acidity. $21.99 Fresh, simple wine $25 - $30searing, mouth-watering St Aiden Geographe brimming over withacidity. $20 5+ $22 Chardonnay attractive fig, nut 7 TASTED3 Drops Mount 2008 HHH1/2 and white peach 5 AWARDEDBarker Chardonnay Bird in Hand Two in “Absolutely stunning characters. $222008 HHHH the Bush Adelaide nose!” enthused oneBig, golden wine with Hills Chardonnay judge. Great power of Bunnamagooan oak-driven nose and 2009 HHH1/2 fruit on the complex and Estate Chardonnayflavoursome palate with Cheesy/leesy bouquet creamy palate. $24 2008 HHHmore of the obvious oak and full-flavoured, Yalumba FDW Quite a heavy and full- Angullong The Castleand supported by a fine [7c] Adelaide Hills flavoured style that has Orange Chardonnayacid structure. $24 creamy palate with Chardonnay complexity, texture and 2010 HHH1/2 some sweetness, 2008 HHH1/2 length. $21.95 balanced with a nice line Full of flavour, showing Big, rich, oaky nose quite an oaky nose, and nicely underscored by of acid. 3-5 $20 rich and creamy in the peachy fruit. More oak mouth, with a long, fine Moana Park Vineyard finish. $24.95 on a full-flavoured palate Selection Grange Spring Vale Freycinet with some pineapple Block Chardonnay Coast Tasmania notes. 3-5 $27 2009 HHH1/2 Chardonnay Complexity of tropical 2010 HHH and floral aromas. Gooseberries mingle Intense fruit presence with stone-fruits on on the palate and lovely the nose, while the balancing acidity. $20 palate has good flavour intensity. $22 Villa Maria Private Bin East Coast Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Beautiful stone-fruit and roasted nut bouquet, and great melon fruit drive through the entire length of the palate. $21.99 DAY 2 - JUDGES The Willow Lane Premium BlendIan McKenzie Adam Eggins Mudgee ChardonnayNational wine show Senior winemaker for 2010 HHH1/2judge and former co- Taylors Wines. Was “A young pup” withchief winemaker for Dux of Oenology at fragrant peachy/Southcorp, Seppelt and Roseworthy. Has judged grapefruit bouquet andBerri Estates. Over 40 at the Canberra, Ballarat, pure fruit intensity onyears’ experience in Clare and Adelaide wine the rich and chewythe wine industry with shows. Winestate’s palate. 3-5 $28more than 30 years Australian Winemaker ofparticipation in the wine the Year 2006.show judging circuit. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 131

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SBeckett’s Flat McGuigan The Riverby Estate Lilydale Estate YarraReserve Single Shortlist Adelaide Marlborough Valley ChardonnayVineyard Estate Hills Chardonnay Chardonnay 2008 HHHHHMargaret River 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH Classy, modern styleChardonnay Appealing colour and Golden wine smelling of chardonnay with2010 HHH flinty grapefruit and of marmalade and with interesting funkyFresh, floral and stone-fruit bouquet. a broad, creamy palate characters. Subtleperfumed nose, and Crisp and lively palate showing lemony acid. $25 complexity on thelean, peachy palate high with a big mouthful of nose and a long,in acid. 3-5 $25 flavour and some nice Seppelt Jaluka delicate palate with a phenolics. $25 Drumborg Vineyard hint of residual sugarDandelion Vineyards Henty Chardonnay and lovely phenolics.Twilight of the Truffle Hill Reserve 2009 HHHAdelaide Hills Series Pemberton Smoky bacon complexity 3-5 $27.99 Chardonnay on the nose, and aChardonnay 2009 HHHH charming, crisp and2010 HHH Long and well-balanced austere palate. $26.99Light, lifted, floral wine showing goodbouquet and long, fresh, concentration of Vasse Felix Margaretflavoursome, high-acid varietal fruit, with well- River Chardonnaypalate. 3-5 $25 handled quality oak 2009 HHH and lees work adding Refined and elegantMcPherson Chapter creaminess. $26 cool-climate chardonnayThree Central with sweet/sour-likeVictoria Chardonnay Saint Clair Family Gallows Wine flavours. $272010 HHH Estate Pioneer Co The BommySweet and simple, Block 11 Cell Block Margaret River Moorilla Praxiswith apricot/citrus-like Marlborough Chardonnay Series Tasmaniaelements and Chardonnay 2009 HHHH Chardonnaygood flavour 2009 HHHHH Very classy pungent/ 2009 HHHpersistence. $29.99 Very fine, elegant wine bacon bouquet, and Clean and fleshy, with with lovely structure and tightly wound palate with good weight of limeCHARDONNAY balance and smelling of good fruit intensity and juice and ginger-like fruit2009 roasted nuts mixed with lovely layers of quality and yeasty complexity.$25 - $30 stone-fruits. Excellent oak. 3-5 $27.99 palate with persistent 3-5 $2835 TASTED flavours of stone-fruits Somerled Steeple and great use of oak. Chase Adelaide Hills Upper Reach15 AWARDED Chardonnay Reserve Swan Valley Palmer Margaret 3-5 $29.95 Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH River ChardonnayThe judges thought that Robert Oatley Still very fresh but Lots of oak sitting on top 2008 HHHH1/2for the price there Craigmoor AC1 showing plenty of of honeyed melon fruit Restrained but complexwere few highlights. Mudgee Chardonnay complexity. Oak tends and developing savoury wine with savoury/flintyBut those few good 2009 HHHH1/2 to dominate the nose complexity. $28 aromas highlightedwines rose above the Flinty/smoky nose with and the palate is full- with floral elementspack. Some wines were lovely solid oak characters. flavoured. 3-5 $26 CHARDONNAY and stone-fruits. Lovely‘overworked’ by the Lean and complex palate 2008 & OLDER acid drive on the verywinemakers, with not with grapefruit/peach- St Huberts Yarra $25 - $30 appealing and classyenough fruit to handle the like fruit balanced by a Valley Chardonnay palate. 3-5 $27.50oak or leesy characters. tight backbone of acidity. 2009 HHH1/2 19 TASTED Bacon bones and white 8 AWARDED Plantagenet 3-5 $28.99 peaches lift off the Great Southern nose. Lovely fine palate The good wines Chardonnay Hungerford Hill with quite a lean acid performed well, showing 2008 HHHH1/2 Tumbarumba profile. $26.99 elegant fruit and Rich, full-bodied wine Chardonnay lingering texture. Some with some very good 2009 HHHH of the others were varietal fruit characters. Described by one judge Long Gully Estate not ageing gracefully, Complex, honeyed as a “tidy, well-focused Yarra Valley having slightly excessive citrus aromas and lovely wine”. Has great balance Chardonnay malolactic characters flavour profile with long, and length, with citrusy 2009 HHH and too much oak. lean acid backbone. fruit, charry oak and tight Complexity of sweet/ acidity. 3-5 $28 smoky/fruity aromas, 3-5 $28 and a flinty restraint to Coldstream Hills the palate. $25 Riverby Estate Yarra Valley Marlborough Chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHHH 2008 HHHH Lovely example of style, Smells smoky and charry with appealing fresh lime, with hints of bacon honey and fig aromas and bones. Quite a warm a tight, classy palate with and complex palate, some pretty racy acidity. with a fleshy mouthfeel and lovely rich flavour 3-5 $28.99 profile. $25132 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

CHARDONNAY varietal tasting $30 - $35 Thanks for a terrific 2010 37 TASTED & wishing you all the best for 2011. 17 AWARDED Mantra has a couple of aces up our sleeve, do drop in over summer to “Now we are beginning to see some class,” experience the difference. said the judges. The higher strike rate here Visit www.mantraonkingwilliam.com.au is pleasing. However, for further details there were a few wines showing a little too much Mantra on King William ‘funky’ character. “There 08 83777201 is no substitute for fruit,” suggested one judge. 36 King William Road Goodwood SA Lunch: Tuesday - FridayGrant BurgeSummers Dinner: Tuesday - SaturdayChardonnay2008 HHHHRefined and very elegantchardonnay with lotsof class! Sexy, smoky,bacon bone nose andrich, fleshy palate withgenerous flavours. $2624 KaratChardonnay2008 HHH1/2Complex wine withvery desirable savourydevelopment on thenose and a soft, fleshyand fruity palate. $29Nicholson River Wirra WirraWinery Montview The 12th ManSouthern Victoria Adelaide HillsChardonnay Chardonnay2008 HHH1/2 2009 HHHHHOld-fashioned, creamy Very appealing andstyle with a savoury/ classy wine with vibranthoneyed nose and green hues. Nosetight, classy palate dominated by somethat’s developing smart oak. Palate hasbeautifully. $29 lovely mouthfeel, racyOakover Wines acidity and lively varietalEstate Range Western fruit. 3-5 $31.50Australia Chardonnay2005 HHH1/2 Bay of Fires TasmaniaEvolving smoky/toasty/ Chardonnaybacon-like aromas 2008 HHHH1/2leading to a lively, fleshy Complete, complex winepalate with some solid with powerful, flintyvarietal flavours. $27 bouquet and seamlessly balanced palate with a tight acid backbone and some lovely phenolics. 5+ $32 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 133

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D SPeos Estate Four Jacob’s Creek Churchview Grant Burge The Windows EstateAces Manjimup Reeves Point The Bartondale Vigneron Adelaide Margaret RiverChardonnay Chardonnay Reserve Margaret Hills Chardonnay Chardonnay2009 HHHH1/2 2007 HHHH1/2 River Chardonnay 2009 HHH 2009 HHHHHDescribed by one judge Big Aussie style - classy 2009 HHHH Very lean, austere, “A great wine,” saidas “a fine, elegant ‘fish yet old-school, with Citrus and stone-fruit on Chablis-like style with high one judge. Stylish andand chips’ wine” with its peachy/citrus fruit, the nose, with a subtle level of fresh acidity. $30 refined, with savouryits steely, stone-fruit charry oak, fine, tight hint of oak. Classy complexity to the nosenose and classy palate acidity and bacon bone palate - tight, lean and Vidal Reserve and beautifully handledwith fruit power and characters adding to the long, with citrusy fruit Hawkes Bay fruit/oak/lees balance onpunch and zingy acidity. complexity. $33.99 and lovely level of Chardonnay a palate underscored with Barwang 842 acidity. 3-5 $30 2009 HHH soft acidity. 3-5 $35 5+ $30 Tumbarumba Classy and complexSeville Estate Yarra Chardonnay Hardys HRBD 648 wine, quite hot and with Coldstream HillsValley Chardonnay 2007 HHHH1/2 Pemberton Adelaide great fruit depth and Deer Farm Vineyard2009 HHHH1/2 Honeyed/kero characters Hills Chardonnay persistence. $30.99 Yarra ValleyNicely funky/yeasty nose on the lemon butter nose. 2009 HHH1/2 Chardonnay- bordering on savoury. Lovely fruitiness on the Very good quality oak Lerida Estate Lake 2009 HHHHGreat palate - graceful mid-palate, great overall dominates the wine but it George Canberra Restrained flinty/and refined, with well- length and balance, with has the fruit to carry it. A District Chardonnay minerally nose and veryhandled oak to fruit ratio more of the honeyed touch charry on the long, 2009 HHH lean palate with lovelyand balance. $30 elements. $35 lingering finish. $32.99 Quite Chablis-like, with fruit and some powerful, herbaceous, gunflint mouth-watering acidity. Broomstick Estate Forester Estate aromas and green “A class act,” suggested Margaret River Margaret River asparagus-like palate. $32 one judge. 3-5 $35 Chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH Robert Oatley Clairault Estate This classy wine has a Classy, well-put-together Margaret River Margaret River powerful fruit presence, wine with nice simple Chardonnay Chardonnay lean, strong and tropical fruit and piercing 2009 HHH 2009 HHHH persistent acidity and a acidity. $30 Complex, savoury Subtle nutmeg/honey big malo influence. Very aromas and lusciously bouquet with nice flavoursome style. $32 Foxeys Hangout rich palate with lots of degree of complexity and Brangayne of Mornington acid to balance. $34.99 a tight and classy palate Orange Isolde Peninsula with excellent flavour Reserve Chardonnay Chardonnay Churchview profile and some bracing 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH The Bartondale acidity. 3-5 $37 Lovely refined and Cheesy/leesy nose Reserve Margaret slightly restrained style and slightly broad, River Chardonnay Dorrien Estate Bin showing lively, savoury full-flavoured, fleshy 2008 HHH 1A Chardonnay aromas leading onto a palate. $30 Toasty/buttery bouquet 2008 HHHH tight, peachy palate with and big, rich, old-school- Good expression of a nice line of acidity. $30 style palate with good classy, perfumed fruit level of fruit. $30 on the nose, and refined and elegant palate with CHARDONNAY wonderful flavour depth $35 - $40 and length and linear acidity. $35.99 35 TASTED 17 AWARDED Overall the judges declared this a disappointing group, although they added that the best wines really stood up and stood out! But there were too many faulty wines showing poor winemaking, with a number simply not justifying being in this bracket.134 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

varietal tastingElgee Park Family Glandore DPJ Sirromet Seven Saddler’s Creek Palandri Vita NovusReserve Mornington Chardonnay Scenes Signature Reserve Hunter Margaret RiverPeninsula 2009 HHH1/2 Selection Granite Valley Chardonnay ChardonnayChardonnay More of an oak-driven Belt Chardonnay 2009 HHH 2005 HHH2009 HHH1/2 style - very toasty and 2009 HHH Complex, rich and Heavy, fleshy wine withLovely ripe fruit layered bacon-like, with tropical/ Flavoursome wine with flavoursome, with a nice lovely toasty/lemonywith just the right degree pineapple varietal fruit very charry/bacon bone savoury element and characters and savouryof funky complexity and characters. $35 oak and powerful ripe tight acidity. $38 oak elements. $35supported by pristine Ata Rangi Craighall fruit. $35acidity. $35 Martinborough Wignalls Albany CJ Pask Declaration CHARDONNAY Chardonnay Western Australia Hawkes Bay $40 - $50Toolangi Denton 2009 HHH Chardonnay ChardonnayYarra Valley Easy-drinking style with 2009 HHH 2008 HHH 24 TASTEDChardonnay lots of pleasant sweet/ Developed wine Rich, old-school style 19 AWARDED2009 HHH1/2 sour characters and with lovely barrel - full-bodied, lush andTight and austere but loads of flavour. $35 ferment, fruit and leesy evolving with oak, fruit Now we’re talking! Greatvery classy wine with Coldstream Hills complexity. $35 and malo in balance. $35 consistency - as to benice persistence of Rising Vineyard Villa Maria Single The Lane Vineyard expected. Lots of greatnectarine/peach flavours Yarra Valley Vineyard Keltern Beginning Single wines from Margaretand high acid. $35 Chardonnay Hawkes Bay Vineyard Adelaide River, showing the 2009 HHH Chardonnay Hills Chardonnay strength of the region.Palandri Vita Novus Complex, long and classy 2009 HHH 2008 HHH A couple of FrenchFrankland River wine with lovely purity of Has harmony and Straightforward, old- wines possibly had corkMargaret River varietal fruit. $35 balance, with obvious fashioned, toasty style issues. The top winesChardonnay lees characters and lots that will, according to had silky fruit finesse2008 HHH1/2 of oak. $35.99 one judge, “appeal to with appropriate oak.Big, full-bodied, old- many”. $39fashioned chardonnaywith a creamy tropicalnose and sweet/sourpalate. 3-5 $35 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 135

C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D S Mistletoe Reserve Black Wattle Hunter Valley Icon Mt Benson Chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHHH1/2 2009 HHH Sophisticated modern Lifted tropical aromas, and number - very classy. a citrus/quince presence Smells of lemons and on the long, lingering ginger and has a lively, palate. 3-5 $48.99 ‘energetic’ palate showing great focus of Cloudy Bay rich fruit. Good overall Marlborough balance. Has pizzazz. $40 Chardonnay 2008 HHH Giant Steps Tarraford Developed toasty/ Vineyard Yarra Valley honeyed nose and Chardonnay enticing palate with 2008 HHHH1/2 good flavour depth. $40 A classic, with savouryWarner Glen Estate Heydon Estate complexity of toasty/ Poole’s Rock Hunter MartinboroughThe Pick Margaret The Willow Single bacon aromas and Valley Chardonnay VineyardRiver Reserve Vineyard Margaret lovely fleshy palate with 2007 HHHH MartinboroughChardonnay River Chardonnay excellent sweet peachy “This is no shrinking Terrace Chardonnay2009 HHHHH 2006 HHHHH fruit intensity and nice violet,” noted one judge. 2008 HHHSubtle pencil shavings- Great colour for its age. degree of funkiness Big, rich and ripe, with Abundant ripe fruit,like oak mingles with Nice gunflint notes to the adding complexity. $40 an abundance of malo creamy malo and nuttycrisp white stone-fruits in honeyed/toasty nose. richness and developed oak produce a complexa wine with lovely leesy Excellent concentration of Wolf Blass White complexity. $41.95 flavour profile. $40characters and fine, sweet fruit on the palate Label Aged Release Evoi Reservesoft acid. “Has them - very flavoursome and Adelaide Hills Margaret River Moorilla Museboth - Punch and Judy,” with a fresh acid spine. Chardonnay Chardonnay Series Tasmaniareflected one judge. $45 Beautifully evolved. $45 2007 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH Chardonnay Delicate, restrained Velvety soft in the 2008 HHH modern style of mouth, with lots of malo Big on flavour; quite hot chardonnay. The nose is influence obvious, and a and soft in the mouth, evolving a nice savoury good presence of sweet with toasty/honeyed edge, while the palate is tropical fruit balanced by peach characters. $45 long, crisp and lively, with tight, racy acidity. $45Watershed Wills Domain lovely gunflint steeliness. Howard Park De Bortoli ReserveAwakening Single Margaret River Very suave! $42.99 Great Southern Release Yarra ValleyVineyard Margaret Chardonnay Chardonnay ChardonnayRiver Chardonnay 2009 HHHHH Laurance of 2009 HHH1/2 2007 HHH2009 HHHHH “On the money - Margaret River Very lean and austere Honest, straightforwardVery classy chardonnay complex and complete,” Chardonnay style of chardonnay but wine with lemon butter/with a delicate bouquet summed up one judge. 2009 HHHH it has complexity, fresh citrus fruit and toastyof white flowers and Excellent presence and Citrusy bouquet with varietal fruit, lovely acid development. $48showing a bright, citrusy persistence of varietal subtle sweet oak notes. and great mouthfeel.lift. Lovely fine pristine fruit with creamy Fine but generous fruitflavours on the long, yeastiness and lovely palate - very pretty and 5+ $40 CHARDONNAYtight and refined palate. balancing crisp acidity. with a lovely tight acid Devil’s Lair Margaret $50+ backbone. Cellaring River Chardonnay 3-5 $44.95 3-5 $45 potential. 3-5 $42 2009 HHH1/2 22 TASTED ‘Tidy’, classy, fine, long wine with great structure 18 AWARDED and lots of bacon STAR RATINGS  Seppelt Drumborg bone oak with toffee-like There were a few Vineyard Chardonnay malo characters. unfortunate cork issues,Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of 2009 HHHH which resulted in someexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Fleshy, fruit-driven wine 3-5 $45.99 very fine wines beingAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry with some tropicals on knocked out. Otherwiseprofessionals and are compared in peer the nose. Very juicy in this was a great class,classes by three judges. the mouth and brimming with wines that were aCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, over with fruit flavours pleasure to judge. Greata major mail-order business. supported by racy/ consistency here andCD Cellar door price. lemony acidity. $43.99 well worth buying!CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out. Seppelt Drumborg$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 HHHH Contact information pg 160. Yeasty/leesy nose with hints of steely citrus fruit. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Lots of charry oak sits well on the palate. Great acid backbone. Good example of a cool-climate style. 5+ $43.99136 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011



C H A R D O N N AY & B L E N D S Penfolds Reserve John Forrest Domaine Bin 08A Adelaide Collection Wairau Fontaine-Gagnard Hills Chardonnay Valley Marlborough Clos Saint Jean 1er 2008 HHHHH Chardonnay Cru Chassagne- Seductive citrus/gunflint 2004 HHHHH Montrachet bouquet with delightful Excellent wine, great 2005 HHHHH hints of grapefruit. for its age and with Nice example of a Complex and very everything in the right Burgundian style, with flavoursome palate place - peachy fruit, evolving golden hues with beautiful texture bacony oak, lees work and smoky bacon and a long, tight line of and crisp acidity. Palate bouquet. Rich and fleshy mouthwatering acidity. offers a big, delicious palate with lovely sweet mouthful of sweet lemony and buttery/ 5+ $89.99 flavours. $50 toasty flavours. $145 Jean Boillot Clos Vasse Felix Penfolds Reserve de la Mouchere Heytesbury Margaret Bin 07A Adelaide Premier Cru Puligny River Chardonnay Hills Chardonnay Montrachet 2008 HHHH1/2 2007 HHHHH 2004 HHHHH “Fantastic!” was how “All smiles, life and “Sex in a bottle,” one judge described this longevity,” one judge suggested one judge of wine. Great winemaking, waxed lyrically. Tightly this wine with its toasty/ excellent fruit presence focused, savoury aromas savoury aromas and great and style, toasty/ and a long, firm palate flavour intensity on a honeyed complexity with loads of fruit flavours. stylishly graceful palate. and some lovely zingySeville Estate “Has eternal appeal,” “It’s a classy number acidity. $50 Ata Rangi PetrieReserve Yarra Valley commented another that’s full of life.” $235 WairarapaChardonnay judge. 5+ $89.99 Chardonnay2009 HHHHH 2009 HHHH1/2Great gunflint and funk Very fresh stone-fruitwith lovely varietal fruit. aromas with subtle oakWonderful length, with a elements. Palate sweet,great mouthful of intense rich and intense - quiteand balanced flavours Chablis-like with itsunderscored by zingy lovely phenolics and softacidity. 5+ $60 acidity. 5+ $60 1981 | CELEBRATING 30 YEARS | 2011 5th generation The cycle of life in our Barossa vines has been turning barossa for over 150 years, since the Schrapel family planted vignerons, their first vineyards in 1852. australia Today, with Bethany Wines being run by fifth and sixth generations of the Schrapel family, the vines’ life cycle continues in much the same way as it always has, with minimal intervention from us to produce the best possible grapes and wines. BETHANY WINES Bethany Road, Tanunda, SA T: 08 8563 2086 www.bethany.com.au138 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

varietal tastingBird in Hand Bird in Hand Nest John ForrestNest Egg Adelaide Egg Adelaide Hills Collection WairauHills Chardonnay Chardonnay Valley Marlborough2009 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH ChardonnayClassic rich, flavoursome Rich, ripe, full-bodied 2006 HHHHstyle with great golden style that’s big on Golden wine with ahues developing. Powerful flavour and smelling of beefy/bacon old-schoolmalo influence and lovely buttered popcorn and nose. Palate rich, lushcomplexity of varietal fruit lemons, with a palate and flavoursome.flavours. 3-5 $60 that’s fresh and quite Described by one spicy. $60 judge as “a glass ofHeafod Glen Family generosity”. $50Reserve Perth Hills Sacred Hill Montalto VineyardsChardonnay Riflemans Hawkes The Eleven2008 HHHH1/2 Bay Chardonnay Single VineyardGreat colour, charming 2009 HHHH Mornington Peninsulafloral/stone-fruit nose Lifted perfumed/floral Chardonnayand loads of sweet fruit/ bouquet and a decent 2008 HHHoak/buttery malo flavours length of mouth- Powerful oak - quitewith a soft spine of filling chardonnay fruit nutty - with buttery maloacidity. Harmonious wine flavours that sit soft and sitting over the top ofwith pizzazz! $50 rounded in the mouth. the varietal fruit. $55 Domaine VincentLeeuwin Estate 3-5 $59.90 Bouzereau LaArt Series Margaret Poruzot 1er CruRiver Chardonnay Sirromet Wild Domaine William Meursault 2005 HHH2005 HHHH1/2 Savage Granite Belt Fevre Vaillons Nose of figs, honey andBig, ripe and rich citrusy Chardonnay Premier Cru Chablis peaches, and a pleasantfruit with classy oak in 2009 HHHH 2008 HHHH palate reminiscentsupport, barley sugar Lovely full-bodied wine Modern, Chablis style of flat champagne.confectionery-like with a complex, savoury that’s not particularly Drink now. $120sweetness and toasty nose, one-dimensional complex but is quiteage. Quite a subtle primary fruit palate and stylish, with delicatebouquet but big on showing a “refined hints of pine and lime-likeflavour. $74 pedigree”. $55 characters. 3-5 $70 rr “A McLaren Vale blockbuster made Blue Gold Medal predominantly Sydney InternatIonal WIne CompetItIon 2010 from Shiraz. It’s full of fruit, silver Medal spice and dark aWC vIenna InternatIonal fruits; a bit like tucking into WIne Challenge 2010 a slice of black forest gãteau.” Bronze MedalInternatIonal WIne and SpIrIt qantas, the australian way feBruary 2009 CompetItIon 2010 (uk) 41/2 stars equal top In Category WIneState magazIne july/auguSt 2010 rr Malpas Road, MclaRen Vale. T: (08) 8557 0000 CellaR dooR TasTings 10aM To 5pM daily. w w w.f oxC Re e k w ine s.C oM March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 139

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINMARLBOROUGHSIGHTS AND SOUND REMARKABLE PATHWAY some of the great French viticultural regions. “This is a very special place with the potentialTHE MERCURE Picton Marlborough YOU’LL need to make an appointment to to become its own sub-region,” says Damian,Sounds, the first international hotel in the visit the sensational new Winegrowers of Ara pointing out that the single-vineyard site isMarlborough region, offers a range of facility in Marlborough, but it will certainly larger than the entire Bordeaux appellation ofpackages to appeal to both wine lovers be worthwhile. The project is astonishing Margaux - 2km wide and 9km long.and outdoor enthusiasts. A package that in terms of scale and attention to detail.includes two nights’ accommodation in an While Ara released its first wines only in Ara is centred on “The Dart”, a purpose-ocean-view room, continental breakfasts, 2005, it has quickly emerged as a force to built structure that resembles a papera ‘Cruise & Walk’ trip with Cougar Line be reckoned with, adopting an approach of dart and houses the offices and vineyardcombining a cruise on the Marlborough making wines in commercial volumes with machinery. For visits, phone +64 3 572Sounds and a walk on Queen Charlotte the attention of a boutique producer. 6020 or visit www.winegrowersofara.co.nz.Track, plus a complimentary bottle of winefrom the Mercure’s Grands Vins regional Winegrowers of Ara (Ara means pathway CHURCH WITHwine menu, costs from $235 per person. or stepping stone in Maori, but also means A FRENCH FLAVOUR altar or shrine in Latin) is owned by one of The launch of the Mercure, which has New Zealand’s richest families, the Todds, THERE can be few cellar doors anywhere insome great harbor views, followed the and is spearheaded by former rugby player the world prettier than the Clos Henri tastingredevelopment of the former Yacht Club Damian Martin, previously with Corbans room, located in an old church outsideHotel. A further 17 rooms were added to the and Montana. With a PhD in viticultural Blenheim. Clos Henri is the Marlboroughhotel’s original 31 and all were upgraded science from Bordeaux University and vineyard of Domaine Henri Bourgeois,to international standards. The hotel now expertise in the adaptation of viticulture leading producers of Sancerre and Pouilly-offers a range of accommodation choices and winemaking practices to soil andincluding deluxe pool-view rooms, ocean- climate characteristics, Damian overseesview rooms and a selection of luxurious all viticulture and winemaking operations,apartments overlooking the entrance to including 45 full-time staff.Queen Charlotte Sound. A single-vineyard estate at the confluence Located on Picton’s harbour, the hotel of the Wairau and Waihopai rivers, Arais just 1km from the ferry terminal (which concentrates entirely on sauvignon blanc andbrings visitors from Wellington) and train pinot noir, although small amounts of pinotstation, making it the perfect spot to stay gris have also been planted on the stunningfor the Marlborough Wine Weekend, which 1600ha site, of which 424ha are currentlywill be held from October 30-November 1 under vine. The site has gravelly soils, at somein 2011. points decidedly rocky, that are considerably older than most New Zealand alluvial soils. Wineries including Cloudy Bay, Oyster The levels of clay and gravel mirror those ofBay and Hunter’s are just over 15 minutes’drive away, while the Mercure’s Chartroomrestaurant and Boatshed bar both featureselections of the finest wines from theregion, which is New Zealand’s largestgrapegrowing and winemaking region andhome to more than 70 wineries. Marlborough is also the southern entrypoint to the Classic New Zealand WineTrail, a signposted 380km touring routestretching through Wellington and theWairarapa to Hawke’s Bay. The regionsaccount for more than 75 per cent of NewZealand wine production. For bookings visitwww.mercure.com or email [email protected] W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

travelbriefsFume, and visitors can taste wines from both label, a riesling, was released in 1994, and Raetihi Lodge, nestled in a secludedFrance and New Zealand. Ten generations the winery also makes sauvignon blanc, bay in the Marlborough Sounds, andof Bourgeois have made wine in France chardonnay, pinot gris, gewurztraminer, Vintners Retreat, just outside Blenheim,but the first Marlborough wines, produced pinot noir and viognier. The cellar door is at have both recently been spruced up.from vineyards planted on former sheep 19 Conders Bend Rd, Renwick, and is open See www.raetihilodge.co.nz and www.paddocks, were produced only in 2003. daily from 10.30am-4.30pm. Phone +64 3 vintnersretreat.co.nz. 572 8884; www.framingham.co.nz. The church, which served the parish FLYING FASCINATIONof Ward before being deconsecrated BOUTIQUE BEDTIMESand transported to Marlborough, is now ANYONE visiting Marlborough who hasknown as Sainte Solange and its walls are MARLBOROUGH has new boutique even the slightest interest in historydecorated with pictures of the Bourgeois accommodation options, while two old should visit the Omaka Aviation Heritagefamily. Lunchtime tasting platters are favourites have been refurbished. BEC Centre. The museum is home to one of theavailable - one featuring imported French world’s largest collections of World Warcheeses, the other charcuterie, terrines and Luxury Lodge has new owners and a new I aircraft and artefacts and the Omakarillettes. The cellar door is open 10am-4pm direction and offers five luxury hilltop suites, Aerodrome is the venue for the biennialdaily during summer (November 1-May 31) a spa pool, steam room, lap pool, spa Classic Fighters air show (to be held overbut by appointment only in winter. Phone treatments and evening dining featuring the Easter weekend). The facility has been+64 3 572 7923; www.clos-henri.com. a degustation menu and local wines. Host described as “the best museum in the Sarah Anderson’s country breakfasts are world” by the Sydney Morning Herald and Another nearby cellar door well legendary. BEC Luxury Lodge is at 81 Cob many of the exhibits were put togetherworth visiting is Te Whare Ra, which Cottage Rd, Blenheim. Phone +64 3 579 with the assistance of film director Peterwas established in 1979 - making it a 4446; www.beclodge.co.nz. Jackson, part of whose personal collectionMarlborough pioneer - and taken over by are featured. The aircraft are depicted inJason Flowerday and his Australian wife Clouds Luxury House, meanwhile, is a context, some of the displays recreatingAnna in 2003. Outstanding aromatic whites, boutique lodge built by Sandra and Bill actual incidents. The museum is open dailyparticularly rieslings and gewurztraminers, Banham on an 8ha Delta Estate Vineyard (except for Christmas and Boxing Day).are the drawcard here. The upstairs tasting site outside Renwick with views across See www.omaka.org.nz.room is open daily during summer and in Cook Strait to the North Island. The propertywinter by appointment and there is a daily boasts a grand entrance complete with MEATING PLACEbehind-the-scenes tour at 10am. Phone sweeping staircase, several beautifully+64 3 572 8581; www.twrwines.co.nz. decorated living spaces, two luxurious THE ART deco Hotel d’Urville is a popular suites with en suites plus another two place to stay in downtown Blenheim, but is Touted newcomers worth including on a suites with adjoining double bathroom, and also home to an excellent restaurant whereregional itinerary include Gibson Bridge, a lap pool. Phone +64 3 572 7943; www. chef Maree Connolly specialises in lambwhich won the 2010 Marlborough cellar cloudsluxuryhouse.co.nz. and beef dishes. The d’Urville’s brasseriedoor of the year award, and Terravin in the is a popular hangout for local winemakersOmaka Valley. and has been awarded a Hallmark of Excellence Award for culinary achievementITALIAN DEBUT in beef and lamb for four straight years. Think dishes such as oven-baked lambVISIT the Framingham cellar door outside rack with pea and shallot tortellini, eggplantRenwick to try New Zealand’s first caviar and tamarind and port jus ($38) ormontepulciano rosato release, take a West Coast dry-aged ribeye with a choicevineyard walk, or to simply sit and sup of sauces ($42). The hotel is at 52 Queenin the sunny courtyard. The Italian-style St, Blenheim. Phone +64 3 577 9945;rose is one of the Framingham F series www.durville.com.of wines that are sold exclusively to cellardoor visitors. Framingham derives its Above: Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre.name from the village of Framingham in Opposite pagesouthern Norfolk, the ancestral home of the Above: BEC Luxury Lodge.company’s founder, Rex Brooke-Taylor. Below: Clos Henri cellar door.The first wine made under the Framingham March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 141

284 TASTED195 AWARDEDMARLBOROUGHSauvignon blanc and pinot noir accounted for more than Villa Maria Giesen The August 1888half the entries, but Marlborough once again proved its Lightly Sparkling Marlborough Sauvignonversatility in Winestate’s largest New Zealand tasting. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHHHHThe judges gave five-star awards in eight classes - Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Barrel-fermented withsauvignon blanc (naturally), pinot gris, gewurztraminer, Mouthfilling, punchy and indigenous yeasts, thisriesling, chardonnay, sparkling, sweet whites and pinot noir. crisp, with slightly sweet, powerful, complex wine isOf the country’s principal wine styles, only Bordeaux-style citrusy, appley, limey very fleshy, ripe and rounded,reds and syrah have yet to shine brightly in Marlborough. flavours, showing good with notably concentrated freshness and impact. $19.99 tropical fruit flavours, slightlyPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Georges Michel Methode nutty and creamy, and loads ofWines available in export markets are shown as (A) Traditionelle NV HHH personality. $37 (A)Australia, (UK) and (US). Crisp, lively blend of semillon (90%) and sauvignon blanc (10%), disgorged after four months on its yeast lees. Lemony, appley and slightly grassy, with moderate complexity, good delicacy and freshness. $25 (A)SPARKLING Clayridge Sauvignon Blanc Toi Toi Sparkling Goldwater de Blancs 2010 HHHH Rosé NV HHH Marlborough Sauvignon11 TASTED Elegant, partly barrel-fermented Very easy-drinking style, Blanc 2010 HHHHH9 AWARDED style, scented and lively, with pale pink, with red berry and Wairau Valley style with slightly fruity, moderately yeasty, finely strawberry flavours, crisp, slightly ‘sweaty’ aromas. Mouthfilling,Strong class of fresh, strong, balanced flavours, very crisp sweet and smooth. $16.30 with fresh melon, lime andvibrantly fruity wines, featuring and refreshing. $21 capsicum flavours, a slightlychampagne look-alikes blended Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice SAUVIGNON oily texture, lively acidity andfrom chardonnay and pinot Marlborough Sauvignon BLANC excellent ripeness, delicacy andnoir, but also a new wave of Blanc Bubbles 2010 HHHH length. $22 (A, UK, US)sauvignon blanc-based sparklings. Lifted, limey bouquet. Crisp 102 TASTED Rochfort Rees and lively, in an easy-drinking 66 AWARDED Marlborough SauvignonAllan Scott Blanc de style with strong, ripe, fruity Blanc 2010 HHHHHBlancs Marlborough Brut flavours, showing excellent The 2010 growing season in Slightly nettley aromas. VeryNV HHHHH freshness, vivacity and drive, Marlborough was average, in punchy and vibrant, withRich, toasty, yeasty fragrance. a sliver of sweetness, and a terms of warmth and sunshine, concentrated tropical fruit andCrisp, lively and concentrated, lingering finish. $19.50 but much drier than usual. The herbaceous flavours, showingwith fresh, citrusy, yeasty, Allan Scott judges found a stimulating excellent freshness, richness andcomplex flavours and a finely Les Joues Rouges diversity of sauvignon styles, harmony. Grown in the Awaterebalanced, dryish, lengthy finish Reserve Brut NV HHH1/2 from weighty, ripe, tropical fruit- and Wairau valleys, it’s already(100% chardonnay). $29.90 (A) Pale pink/onion skin hue. Fresh flavoured models (mostly from delicious and a top buy. $18.95 and crisp, with moderately yeasty the Wairau Valley), to aromatic,Allan Scott flavours, hints of oranges and crisper, more nettley styles (fromCecilia Marlborough strawberries, and a long, fairly dry the Awatere Valley), and someBrut NV HHHH finish (100% pinot noir). $26.50 excellent examples of complex,Elegant, crisp and lively blend Clayridge Sparkling Pinot barrel-fermented wines.of pinot noir and chardonnay, Rosé Brut 2010 HHH1/2disgorged after 18 months on Floral, fresh blend of pinot noirits yeast lees. Citrusy, appley, (60%), pinot gris (30%) andmoderately yeasty flavours and a pinot blanc (10%), all barrel-tight-knit, lingering finish. $26.50 fermented. Bright pink, with lively, plummy flavours in a moderately complex, slightly confectionery style, widely appealing. $24142 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

regional tastingInvivo Marlborough Nobilo Icon Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice Kim CrawfordSauvignon Blanc Marlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon SP Spitfire Sauvignon2010 HHHHH Blanc 2010 HHHHH Blanc 2010 HHHH1/2 Blanc 2010 HHHHPunchy, dry style from the High impact, Awatere Valley Punchy, with rich, ripe tropical Classic Wairau Valley styleAwatere Valley with ripely style with strong, herbaceous fruit flavours, woven with - full-bodied and ripe, withherbaceous aromas and aromas leading into a weighty fresh acidity, and good vigour strong, tropical fruit flavours, aflavours, crisp and minerally. wine with crisp, vibrant melon and depth. Finely textured and herbal undercurrent and goodFresh and rich, with a long and green capsicum flavours, lingering, offering excellent concentration. $33 (A, UK, US)finish. $19 (A, UK) highly concentrated, minerally value at $19.50. (A, US) Drylands Marlborough and long. $23.99 (A, UK, US) Saint Clair Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Sauvignon 2010 HHHH Blanc 2010 HHHH1/2 Powerful wine with fresh, ripe, Strong, ‘sweaty’ armpit tropical fruit flavours, showing aromas. Crisp, tight excellent depth, vigour and passionfruit, melon and lime roundness. $22 (A, UK, US) flavours, very fresh and Jules Taylor intense. Sweet-fruited, with Marlborough Sauvignon excellent weight and length. Blanc 2010 HHHH Still a baby, with obvious Fleshy and ripe, with potential. $33.50 (A, UK, US) mouthfilling body and generous, Brancott Estate Reserve tropical fruit flavours, showing Marlborough Sauvignon excellent freshness, delicacy Blanc 2010 HHHH and depth. $22 (A, UK, US) Crisp, dry and flavoursome, Mount Riley with fresh, pure varietal Seventeen Valley characters, showing good Marlborough Sauvignon intensity. Tightly structured and Blanc 2009 HHHH slightly minerally. $23.95 Barrel-fermented with indigenous yeasts, this fleshyKim Crawford Mount Vernon wine has ripe, non-herbaceousMarlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon flavours, seasoned with toastyBlanc 2010 HHHHH Blanc 2010 HHHH1/2 oak, a slightly creamy texture,Ticks all the right boxes, with Slightly ‘sweaty’, ripe-fruit and excellent complexity andexcellent balance of fresh aromas. Very easy-drinking richness. $23.90 (A, UK)tropical fruit and herbaceous style, rich and rounded, withflavours, concentration, acidity, tropical fruit flavours showing Saint Clair Pioneer Blockdrive and length. Very lively and excellent depth and fresh 11 Cell Block Sauvignonintense, it’s highly impressive, acidity keeping things lively. Blanc 2010 HHHHespecially for such a large- (From Lawson’s Dry Hills.) A Mouthfilling and sweet-fruited,volume label. $22.99 (A, UK, US) good buy at $17. (A) with strong, citrusy, ripely herbaceous flavours and some ‘sweaty’ notes on the nose. Very fresh and crisp, with good weight and intensity. $25.50 (A) Saint Clair Dashwood Saint Clair Pioneer Block Marlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon 18 Snap Block Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHH1/2 Blanc 2010 HHHH Blanc 2010 HHHH Enjoyed by all judges. Ripely Slightly minerally, appetisingly Fleshy, finely balanced and scented and fleshy, with fresh, crisp blend of Wairau and intensely varietal, with fresh, concentrated, tropical fruit Awatere valley grapes, with strong melon, citrus fruit and flavours and a well-rounded good intensity of melon/lime green capsicum flavours, showing finish. $21.50 (A, UK, US) flavours. Fresh, aromatic, lively excellent delicacy, ripeness and and refreshing. Great buy at length. $25.50 (A, UK, US) $16. (A, UK, US)Michael Cooper Michael Ivicevich JUDGESWinestate’s New Zealand editor Chief winemaker foris the author of the internationally Oyster Bay Wines Nick Piconeacclaimed Wine Atlas of New and Delegat’s Wine Senior AucklandZealand and the annual Michael Estate, Michael is a winemaker for VillaCooper’s Buyer’s Guide to New senior judge in New Maria Estate, NickZealand Wines. In the 2004 Zealand competitions. also has several years’New Year Honours, Michael His parents own winemaking experiencewas appointed an Officer of the West Brook Winery, in Marlborough.New Zealand Order of Merit for based in Auckland.services to wine writing. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 143

MARLBOROUGH Villa Maria Reserve Blind River Two Tracks Wairau Valley Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHH Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Fleshy and ripely scented, with Rich, ripe and rounded style Fresh and crisp, with ripe, tropical passionfruit, melon and lime from the Awatere Valley, partly fruit flavours and hints of citrus flavours, fresh and lingering, (10%) barrel-fermented, with fruits and spices. Vibrant and and good acid spine. Rich and some herbaceous notes and refreshing, with good length zingy. $26 (UK, US) very good length. $24.99 (A, UK) (from Wither Hills). $19.95 (A, UK)Spy Valley Wither Hills Cable Bay Marlborough Villa Maria ReserveMarlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon Selection Sauvignon Clifford BayBlanc 2010 HHHH Blanc 2010 HHHH Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Marlborough SauvignonRipely scented and full-bodied, Fresh, slightly herbaceous Fleshy, with ripe, tropical fruit Blanc 2010 HHH1/2with generous, tropical fruit bouquet, leading into a flavours, showing very good Fleshy, crisp and dry, withflavours, a slightly creamy punchy, tropical fruit- depth, and a crisp, dry finish. strong, vibrant melon, limetexture and a rounded finish. flavoured wine with excellent $17 (A, UK, US) and slight asparagus flavours,$19.95 (A, UK, US) richness, vigour and length. Eradus Awatere Valley at the greener end of the Fine value. $20 (A, UK, US) Marlborough Sauvignon spectrum. Very fresh andThe Pass Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 lively. $26 (UK, US)Marlborough Sauvignon Yealands Way Ripely scented and fleshy, with Wairau River ReserveBlanc 2010 HHHH Premium Selection good acid spine and very good Marlborough SauvignonFleshy, smooth blend of Marlborough Sauvignon depth of tropical fruit flavours. Blanc 2010 HHH1/2Wairau and Awatere valley fruit Blanc 2010 HHHH Good value at $17.99. (A, UK, US) Nettley aromas. Fresh,with ripe, sweet-fruit delights, Punchy, nettley aromas, Highfield herbaceous style, intenselybalanced acidity and good suggestive of the Awatere Marlborough Sauvignon varietal, with very good flavourharmony. Slightly ‘sweaty’, Valley. Full-flavoured wine, ripe Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 depth. Crisp and refreshing.very fruity and well-rounded and juicy, with good weight Crisp and punchy, with fresh, $30 (A, UK, US)(from Vavasour). $18 (A, UK) and harmony. $17.99 (A) tropical fruit flavours in a West BrookThe Sisters 3 Stones medium-bodied style, showing Marlborough SauvignonMarlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon very good drive and length. Blanc 2010 HHH1/2Blanc 2010 HHHH Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 $24.50 (A, UK, US) Strong, tropical fruit-flavouredCrisp, lively, Awatere Valley Fleshy, mouthfilling wine, ripe Mount Fishtail wine, partly (6%) barrel-wine with a very aromatic, and smooth, with citrusy, limey Marlborough Sauvignon fermented, with good vigourgrassy bouquet. Melon/lime flavours, a slightly oily texture Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 and purity and lively acidity. $21flavours, at the greener end of and good concentration. $20 Lively, with an attractive Wither Hills Rarangithe spectrum, a slightly nettley combination of tropical fruit and Marlborough Sauvignonstreak and good length (from Boatshed Bay herbaceous flavours, slightly Blanc 2009 HHH1/2Blind River). $19.99 (A, UK) Marlborough Sauvignon off-dry, fresh and crisp. Fine Maturing well, with vibrant,Tiki Single Vineyard Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 value at $13.95. citrusy, limey flavours, freshWairau Alpine Valley Slightly nettley bouquet. The Crossings acid spine and a lingeringMarlborough Sauvignon Mouthfilling and dry, with Awatere Valley finish. $25 (A, UK)Blanc 2010 HHHH strong, green-edged flavours, Marlborough Sauvignon Yealands EstateRipely herbaceous, full-bodied fresh, crisp and lively. $18 (A) Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Marlborough Sauvignonstyle with good weight and Fresh and racy, with melon/lime Blanc 2010 HHH1/2richness of tropical fruit flavours showing good delicacy Weighty Awatere Valley wine withflavours, smooth and finely and depth and a slightly off-dry, ripe, tropical fruit and herbaceousbalanced. $24.99 lingering finish. $19 flavours, showing very goodTwo Rivers Convergence Tinpot Hut depth. $24.99 (A)Marlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Sauvignon Allan Scott MoorlandsBlanc 2010 HHHH Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Marlborough SauvignonFleshy, with generous, tropical Fleshy, with good body, fresh, Blanc 2009 HHHfruit flavours and a rounded ripe, citrus and tropical fruit From vines up to 30 years old,finish. Very fresh, vibrant and flavours, slight herbal notes and this wine was tank-fermentedsustained. $20 (A, UK) a rounded texture. $22 (A, UK) and matured for 10 months in Tiki Wairau seasoned oak barrels. Fleshy, Alpine Valley Sauvignon ripe style with good depth of Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 tropical fruit flavours, slightly Fresh, crisp and lively, with nutty and leesy notes adding melon/lime aromas and complexity, and a tight, dry flavours, showing very good finish. $26.50 (A) ripeness and depth. $19.99144 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011



MARLBOROUGHAuntsfield Manu Marlborough Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Giesen MarlboroughMarlborough Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Marlborough Sauvignon Riesling 2009 HHHHHBlanc 2010 HHH Fleshy, ripe and rounded, Blanc 2010 HHH Vivacious, gently sweet styleFresh and crisp, with complexity with tropical fruit flavours and Very ‘sweaty’ nose. with crisp, ripe citrus fruit,from partial barrel fermentation a dry, soft finish. Enjoyable Mouthfilling, with strong, ripe, lime and passionfruit flavours,(15%). Citrusy and zingy, with now. $19 (A, UK) tropical fruit flavours, tight and showing excellent vigour, balancegood length. $23 (A, UK, US) Mount Riley Marlborough crisp. $27.95 (A) and concentration, and slightlyBird Old Schoolhouse Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH toasty and minerally notes addingVineyard Marlborough Fleshy and harmonious, with The People’s Marlborough complexity. $18.99 (UK, US)Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH good depth of fresh, tropical Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHFresh, crisp and dry, with fruit flavours and a dry, rounded Made by Constellation NZ West Brook Marlboroughcitrusy, limey flavours, well finish. $17.90 (A, UK) from Awatere Valley grapes, Riesling 2009 HHHHHbalanced for easy drinking. Paua Marlborough this mouthfilling, tropical fruit Lively, crisp, medium style,$24.95 (A, US) Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH flavoured wine is very fresh, aromatic, with concentratedBlack Cottage Typical Wairau Valley style - crisp and lively. $22 flavours and a minerally streakMarlborough Sauvignon full-bodied and sweet-fruited, noted by all judges. Very tightlyBlanc 2010 HHH with good depth of tropical fruit Villa Maria Cellar Selection structured and concentrated,Crisp and dry, with mouthfilling flavours and fresh, balanced Marlborough Sauvignon with obvious potential. $21body and fresh, ripe melon/lime acidity (from Highfield Estate). Blanc 2010 HHH Allan Scott Marlboroughflavours (from Two Rivers). $19 (A, UK, US) Mouthfilling, with vibrant tropical Riesling 2009 HHHHGood value. $15 Pebble Row Marlborough fruit flavours, showing good Fresh, ripe, tropical fruit aromasBrancott Estate ‘B’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH ripeness and depth, and a crisp, and flavours. Medium-dryMarlborough Sauvignon Awatere Valley style, with lingering finish. $23 (A, UK, US) style, finely balanced with livelyBlanc 2010 HHH fresh, lively, citrusy, limey acidity and good concentration.Full-flavoured, with fresh, ripe flavours, offering easy drinking Villa Maria Private Bin $21.90 (A, UK, US)fruit characters of melons, (from Vavasour). $18 (A) Marlborough Sauvignonlimes and spices, showing Redwood Pass Blanc 2010 HHHgood vigour. $34.95 (A, US) Marlborough Sauvignon Green capsicum-like aromasButterfly Marlborough Blanc 2010 HHH and flavours to the fore, freshSauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH Crisp and green-edged, with and lively. Slightly nettley andLight, green-edged style with melon, lime and capsicum appley, with peachy, citrusyvibrant, freshly herbaceous flavours showing good freshness notes and crisp, refreshingaromas and flavours. (Export and vigour. $18 (A, UK) acidity. $20 (A, UK, US)label from Matahiwi Estate, Saint Clair Pioneer Blocksold only in Australia.) $A15 (A) 2 Swamp Block Sauvignon Whitehaven MarlboroughCable Bay Marlborough Blanc 2010 HHH Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHSauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH Slightly ‘sweaty’ aromas. Fresh, ripe style, finelySlightly ‘sweaty’ aromas, Fleshy and smooth, with a textured, with good depth ofleading into a full-flavoured slightly oily texture and fresh, tropical fruit flavours, crisp andwine, ripe and crisp. Fresh and ripe flavours, showing good but lively. $19 (A, UK, US)vibrant, with good delicacy and not great depth. $25.50 (A, UK)depth. $24 (A, UK) Selaks Winemaker’s RIESLINGCatalina Sounds Favourite MarlboroughMarlborough Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH 23 TASTEDBlanc 2010 HHH From the Awatere Valley, a fresh, 17 AWARDEDCitrusy, limey and dry, in a crisp, lively wine with ripe, tropical fruitlively style that shows a slight characters mingled with greener, Very strong class, featuringlack of richness but also offers more herbaceous notes, and a an array of styles (medium-very solid drinking. $22 (A) smooth finish. $20.99 dry to medium-sweet)Coopers Creek SV Dillons Soho Marlborough offering very good value.Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHSauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH Light and lively, with good Highfield MarlboroughGenerous, with fresh, ripe, vigour and ripeness and Riesling 2010 HHHHHtropical fruit flavours, balanced satisfying depth of citrusy, Medium style, already highlyacidity and a rich, rounded limey flavours. $21.95 (A, US) expressive. Fresh, light and lively,finish. $21 Soho White Label with lifted, lemony/limey aromas,Giesen The Brothers Marlborough Sauvignon good balance of sweetnessMarlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH and acidity and tangy, incisiveBlanc 2009 HHH Floral and sweet-fruited, with flavours. $19.50 (A, UK, US)‘Sweaty’ bouquet. Fresh, with good freshness, crispness andpassionfruit/lime flavours, length. Citrusy and limey, with Two Rivers Juliet Rieslingshowing some oak-derived zingy acidity. $18 (A, US) 2010 HHHHHcomplexity, and a crisp, dry Richly scented, with ripefinish. $25 (A, UK, US) fruit aromas and hints of spice. Concentrated, slightly sweet flavours, very fresh, finely balanced and lingering. $20 (A, UK)146 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

regional tastingLake Chalice Falcon Saint Clair Marlborough Ultra premium single-vineyard winesVineyard Marlborough Riesling 2010 HHH1/2 from Omaka Valley, MarlboroughRiesling 2009 HHHH Finely balanced, with good body Bird Sauvignon BlancGenerous, low-alcohol style and depth of citrusy, appley Explosive, Zesty, Intense(10.5%), still youthful, with flavours. Medium-dry style with Bird Pinot Grisfresh, ripe, gently sweet lively acidity, crafted for easy, Versatile, Delicate, Seductiveflavours, showing good vivacity satisfying drinking. $21.50 (UK) Bird Rieslingand concentration. $19.95 (A) Exciting, Vibrant, AlluringLawson’s Dry Hills Wairau River Marlborough Bird GewurztraminerMarlborough Riesling Riesling 2009 HHH1/2 Opulent, Exotic, Scented2008 HHHH Fleshy, off-dry style with Bird Big Barrel Pinot NoirDrinking well now. Pale yellow, crisp, citrusy, appley flavours,fleshy and rounded, with showing very good freshness, Rich, Voluptuous, The Silken Temptressripe, grapefruit-like flavours, ripeness and depth. $20 (A)concentrated, slightly toastyand lingering. $19 (A, US) Riverby Estate Sali’sSaint Clair Pioneer Block MarlboroughBlock 9 Big John Riesling 2009 HHHRiesling 2009 HHHH Citrusy, peachy, mediumSweetish, low-alcohol style style with a hint of botrytis.(9%) from the lower Brancott Restrained bouquet, with someValley, light and lively, with oily notes adding richness. $20lovely freshness, depth andpoise. $23.50 Villa Maria Private BinTohu Marlborough Marlborough Dry RieslingRiesling 2010 HHHH 2010 HHHFloral, tight, very youthful Fresh, crisp and lively, a dryishwine, grown at altitude in the style with a finely scentedAwatere Valley. Vibrant, off-dry bouquet and vibrant lemon andstyle with mouth-wateringly lime flavours, showing goodcrisp, lemony, appley flavours depth. $19.99 (A, UK, US)showing excellent delicacy anddepth. Best 2012+. $19.95 GEWURZTRAMINER 10 TASTED 8 AWARDEDTohu Raiha Reserve Very strong class with severalRiesling 2010 HHHH enticingly perfumed, richlyLight-bodied (10.5% alc.), fresh, flavoured, intensely varietaljuicy and vibrant, with strong, wines, confirming Marlborough’sappley, slightly spicy flavours. status as the country’s foremostMedium-sweet style with region for gewurztraminer.appetising acidity and excellentdepth and harmony. $24.95Toi Toi MarlboroughRiesling 2010 HHHHFresh, citrusy and limey, with agentle splash of sweetness, aminerally streak, firm acid spineand good intensity. $21.40West Brook MarlboroughRiesling 2010 HHHHStill a baby, but showing goodvigour and intensity of lemon/lime flavours, off-dry, crispand long. $21Bird Old Schoolhouse Johanneshof Marlborough Available exclusively in Or in New South Wales,Vineyard Marlborough Gewurztraminer New Zealand through Australia throughRiesling 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHHHH Waratah WinesFresh, ripe lemon and slight Exotically perfumed, with Steve Bird Winery & Vineyards Ltd ph. 02 4739 8915passionfruit flavours in a Turkish delight aromas. ph 07 9272377 / 0274 785298 or email:juicy, medium, well-rounded Mouthfilling and rounded, or email: [email protected], offering very easy with rich, pure flavours of [email protected]. $24.95 (A, US) pears, lychees and spices and a splash of sweetness. Lovely concentration and Steve Bird Winery & Vineyards Ltd harmony. $29.50 +64 (0)7 927 2377 www.birdwines.com March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 147

MARLBOROUGHSpy Valley Marlborough Wairau River Marlborough Vavasour Awatere Valley Saint Clair MarlboroughGewurztraminer Gewurztraminer Pinot Gris 2009 HHHHH Pinot Gris 2009 HHH1/22010 HHHH 2010 HHH Fresh, floral aromas lead Fresh, crisp and lively, with aFleshy, with an aromatic Sturdy, partly oak-aged style into a lively, full-flavoured slightly oily texture and goodbouquet and ripe stone-fruit, with ripe lychee, pear and spice palate, weighty and finely depth of pear, lemon and spicepear and spice flavours, flavours, fresh, off-dry and textured. Peachy, lemony, flavours. $21.50 (A)showing good concentration. lingering. $25 slightly nutty and rich, it Two Rivers MarlboroughQuite forward; drink now shows impressive purity and Pinot Gris 2010 HHH1/2onwards. $22.95 (A, UK, US) PINOT GRIS concentration. $22 (A, UK) Fleshy and fresh, with vibrantHunter’s Marlborough Stoneleigh Marlborough pear and spice flavoursGewurztraminer 35 TASTED Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH showing very good ripeness2010 HHHH 22 AWARDED Attractively scented, with and depth. $24 (A, UK)Youthful wine with fresh, Mixed bag, with several weighty, strong, fresh, intensely varietal Villa Maria Singlecitrusy, spicy flavours, ripe and richly flavoured, Alsace-style peach, pear and spice flavours Vineyard Seddonstrong. Good weight, with a wines claiming the top ratings, and an oily, rounded texture. Marlborough Pinot Griswell-rounded, medium-dry finish but too many plain, slightly dilute Slightly sweet style with good 2009 HHH1/2that lingers well. $22.50 (A, UK) wines that struggle to justify richness, balanced for easy Fine, elegant style, floral,Saint Clair Godfrey’s Creek their typically $20 price tags. drinking. $23 with vibrant, ripe, stone-Reserve Marlborough Tinpot Hut Marlborough fruit characters, long andGewurztraminer Spy Valley Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009 HHHH flavoursome. $32.2008 HHHH Pinot Gris 2010 HHHHH Freshly scented, crisp and Yealands EstateFleshy, with strong, peachy, spicy Fleshy and forward, with elegant, with good weight, Marlborough Pinot Grisflavours, fresh, ripe and rounded. concentrated, ripe, stone-fruit an oily texture and strong, 2010 HHH1/2Softly structured, medium style, and spice flavours, a slightly ripe-fruit flavours, peachy and Floral, full-bodied wine, citrusylush and oily. $27.50 oily texture and a rich, rounded, concentrated. $22 (A, UK) and slightly sweet, with veryWest Brook Marlborough very harmonious finish. Wairau River Marlborough good freshness, vigour andGewurztraminer Powerful, with lovely balance Pinot Gris 2010 HHHH depth. $24.99 (A)2010 HHHH and depth. $22.95 (A, UK, US) Alsace style - weighty, fleshy Yealands WayFleshy, elegant style, partly and softly textured, with Marlborough Pinot Grisbarrel-fermented, with a floral Dashwood Marlborough peachy, ripe, rounded flavours, 2010 HHH1/2bouquet and refreshing, ripe Pinot Gris 2009 HHHHH long and rich. Concentrated, Strongly varietal, medium-flavours, showing excellent Intensely varietal, slightly oily skilfully balanced wine, already bodied style, vibrantly fruity,concentration. $23.50 wine, blended from Wairau and drinking well. $25 (A, UK) with good depth of pear andLawson’s Dry Awatere valley grapes, with Goldwater Wairau Valley spice flavours, slightly sweet,Hills Marlborough concentrated, ripe lychee, pear Pinot Gris 2010 HHH1/2 fresh and crisp. $17.99 (A)Gewurztraminer and spice flavours, still very Aromatic, fresh and crisp, with Allan Scott Omaka2009 HHH1/2 fresh and vibrant. A great buy good depth of citrusy, appley Marlborough Pinot GrisGenerous, full-bodied style from Vavasour. $16 flavours, a minerally streak and 2009 HHHwith strong, spicy aromas and lots of personality. $22 (A) Fleshy, oak-aged style with soft,flavours, showing some exotic Saint Clair Godfrey’s peachy, slightly spicy flavours,notes. $25 (A, UK, US) Creek Reserve Pinot Gris showing good varietal character,Saint Clair Pioneer 2009 HHH1/2 and a dryish finish. $26.50Block 12 Lone Gum Mouthfilling, dryish style, Babich Marlborough PinotGewurztraminer fleshy, with gentle acidity Gris 2009 HHH2008 HHH1/2 and ripe, peach and nectarine Weighty, fleshy and creamySoft, slightly sweet style with flavours, showing very good textured, with ripe, stone-fruitstrong lychee, pear and spice depth. $25.50 (A) flavours and a dryish, lingeringflavours and gentle acidity. finish. $19.95 (A, UK, US)Aromatic, oily wine, drinking Black Cottagewell now. $23.50 (UK) Marlborough Pinot Gris 2010 HHH Slightly sweet style with fresh, ripe peach and pear flavours, a hint of apricots, and good texture and depth (from Two Rivers). $19 Catalina Sounds Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009 HHH Crisp, citrusy, appley and slightly spicy, in a tight, minerally style, crisp and refreshing. $26 (A)148 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

regional tastingCoopers Creek SV The West Brook Marlborough CHARDONNAY Vavasour Awatere ValleyPointer Marlborough Pinot Gris 2010 HHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHHHPinot Gris 2009 HHH Very easy-drinking style, partly 31 TASTED Fragrant, weighty,Fresh, grapey aromas, leading barrel-fermented (22%), with 23 AWARDED concentrated wine with ripeinto a medium-bodied palate with fresh, ripe, stone-fruit flavours, stone-fruit flavours, finelypeachy, citrusy and slightly nutty a sliver of sweetness and good Strong class, proving yet again integrated nutty oak and lovelyflavours, crisp and lively. $21 depth. $23.50 that the region’s chardonnays richness, texture and harmony.River Farm Godfrey Road are widely underrated. The Fleshy and layered, with goodMarlborough Pinot Gris OTHER WHITES panel found three exceptional structure and length. $25 (A)2010 HHH wines and a large number of Cloudy Bay ChardonnaySturdy, dry style, partly barrel- 4 TASTED fresh, vibrant, finely balanced 2008 HHHHHfermented. Substantial body, 2 AWARDED wines, often sharply priced. Complex style, richly fragrant,with fresh, ripe pear and spice with lovely integration of ripe,flavours and a finely textured, Clayridge Marlborough Auntsfield Cob Cottage stone-fruit flavours and oak.rounded finish. $19.90 (A, UK) Viognier 2008 HHH Marlborough Chardonnay Understated but powerful, withToi Toi Marlborough Pinot Peachy and slightly nutty (from 2008 HHHHH minerally, nutty notes, good acidGris 2009 HHH 20% barrel fermentation), with Superb wine, celebrated by spine, notable complexity and aMedium-bodied style with good depth, lively acidity and a all judges. Fragrant, highly tight, lasting finish. $40 (A, UK)fresh pear, apple and spice touch of complexity. $24 complex bouquet, suggestiveflavours and a rounded, Konrad Marlborough of grilled nuts, leading into alingering finish. Easy drinking Gruner Veltliner 2010 HHH mouthfilling, very generousand good value. $16 From first-crop vines, estate- palate with great depth ofVilla Maria Cellar grown in the Waihopai Valley, peach and grapefruit flavours,Selection Marlborough this weighty, dryish wine is fresh finely balanced oak (30% new)Pinot Gris 2010 HHH and aromatic, with a rounded, and impressive complexity.Crisp, lemony, slightly spicy slightly spicy finish. $24.95 (A) Beautifully rich, finely texturedand nutty wine, grown mostly and layered. $34 (A, UK, US)in the Awatere Valley and partlybarrel-fermented. Aromatic,medium-bodied style, veryfresh and lively. $23 (UK)It’s all aboutinnovationAmcor GlassFor more information contactAmcor Glass Customer Servicephone (08) 8521 4600 [email protected] March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 149

MARLBOROUGHSaint Clair Pioneer Block Saint Clair Pioneer Charles Wiffen Lake Chalice Marlborough4 Sawcut Marlborough Block 11 Cell Block Marlborough Chardonnay Chardonnay 2009 HHHChardonnay 2009 HHHH1/2 Marlborough Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Strongly ‘malo’-influencedYouthful, refined wine with 2009 HHHH Peachy, full-flavoured style with style, medium-bodied, with asubstantial body, concentrated Powerful, fleshy style with toasty, nutty, buttery notes restrained oak influence, gentlecitrus and peach flavours, a subtle strong, ripe peach and grapefruit adding complexity and good acidity and creamy, butteryoak influence and a long finish. flavours and considerable length. Two judges considered flavours. $19.95Weighty and rich, with good complexity. Two judges found it to be quite developed, and Lawson’s Dry Hillscomplexity and texture. $30.50 the oak influence (French and good for current drinking. $24 Unoaked MarlboroughDashwood Marlborough American, all new) assertive, Indicator Point Chardonnay 2009 HHHChardonnay 2009 HHHH while admiring the wine’s Marlborough Chardonnay Fresh, crisp and lively, withRefined, finely balanced wine, weight and richness. $30.50 2008 HHH1/2 ripe, citrusy, peachy flavours,slightly minerally, with strong, Wairau River Reserve Fruit-driven style with fresh, showing good depth and somefresh, citrusy flavours to the Marlborough Chardonnay crisp grapefruit and apple elegance. $19 (A)fore and a subtle seasoning of 2009 HHHH flavours, showing some Saint Clair Unoakedoak. Great value. $16 Rich, complex and creamy, elegance and depth. Priced Marlborough ChardonnayGoldwater Marlborough with strong, ripe flavours, hints sharply at $16.99. 2009 HHHChardonnay 2008 HHHH of nuts and butterscotch and Rapaura Springs Creamy style with a strongFinely structured, weighty good harmony. Powerful, finely Marlborough Chardonnay ‘malo’ influence, noted by alland rich, with concentrated, textured wine, for drinking now 2008 HHH1/2 judges, and restrained, melon-peachy flavours, showing good or cellaring. $30 Fragrant, peachy, nutty like fruit characters. Weightycomplexity, balanced acidity Allan Scott Wallops bouquet. Finely textured and flavoursome, with a dry,and good harmony. $22 (UK) Marlborough Chardonnay palate with good depth of rounded finish. $21.50Hunter’s Marlborough 2009 HHH1/2 butterscotch and nut flavours Stoneleigh Rapaura SeriesChardonnay 2009 HHHH Finely balanced, citrusy, and a creamy-smooth finish. Marlborough ChardonnayRich and rounded, with slightly biscuity wine with Good value at $19.99. (A, US) 2010 HHHvery good depth and some good depth of flavour. Fresh Saint Clair Pioneer Block Fleshy, with good weightcomplexity. Fresh, with peachy and crisp, with some elegance 10 Twin Hills Marlborough and richness, but currentlyfruit flavours to the fore, and complexity. $26.50 (A) Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 dominated by oak (accordingsatisfying weight on the palate Weighty and creamy, with to all judges). Fresh, withand finely integrated oak. Top strong, ripe, stone-fruit considerable complexity and abuy at $18.90. (A, UK) flavours, mealy, buttery notes sustained, well-rounded finish. adding complexity and an Worth cellaring. $27.95 (A) assertive seasoning of toasty Villa Maria Cellar oak (described by one judge as Selection Marlborough “full throttle”). $30.50 (UK) Chardonnay 2009 HHH Riverby Estate Fresh, citrusy, vibrantly fruity Marlborough Chardonnay wine, tightly structured and 2009 HHH1/2 dry. Lacks a bit of weight Full-bodied, with ripe stone-fruit and complexity, but youthful flavours, fresh acidity and good and well made, with some balance of fruit and oak (fully elegance. $23 (UK) barrel-fermented, 20% new). Already drinking well. $26 (A, US) ROSÉ Villa Maria Single Vineyard Taylors Pass 2 TASTED Chardonnay 2007 HHH1/2 1 AWARDED Still youthful in colour. Minerally, distinctly cool- Lawson’s Dry Hills climate style with lemony, Marlborough Rosé slightly limey, nutty flavours, 2010 HHH tight and focused. $36.99 Lively, pinot noir-based rosé, pink/ Allan Scott Marlborough red, floral and fruity, with ripe Chardonnay 2009 HHH strawberry and plum flavours, Crisp and flavoursome, in a crisp and dry. $19 (A, UK, US) moderately complex style with hints of apples, cheese and butterscotch. $21.90 (A, UK, US) Highfield Marlborough Chardonnay 2009 HHH Vibrant, with fresh, citrusy fruit flavours to the fore. Medium-bodied, with a restrained oak influence and some attractive creamy notes on the finish. $33 (A, UK)© Tourism New Zealand.150 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011