Winestate Magazine March April 2011

ITALY IS A LAND OF TRIBES, After settling in for a three-night stay in the delightful ancient town of Siena, the next dayand in some ways this is what makes it so we ventured to the historic Fattoria Dellafascinating. Family is all-important and if Talosa winery, with a cellar door underneathyou are lucky enough to get a ‘slow food’ the town of Montepulciano, gateway toinvitation to a winery or a family home, a Tuscan wine experience. Here, whilegrab it with both hands and wipe off the sipping sangiovese, we admired the ancientrest of the afternoon. caves with seashells in the walls and ceilings proclaiming a previous prehistoric period. Winestate completed its third tour of Italy Another ‘light’ lunch was enjoyed, withrecently and we were overwhelmed with our host Allessandra proclaiming “typicalgreat acts of kindness and generosity. Tuscan food - salami, prosciutto, pecorinoOur slow food adventure that evolved and bruschetta”, with the request for us toon this trip made it one of the best wine “feel emotion and passion(s) from our wine.”tours we have conducted. This time we We certainly did!travelled north from Rome with greatanticipation for visits to some of the world’s After lunch, a quick trip took us to the super-most romantic places; the wine regions modern Poliziano winery, with great attentionof Tuscany, Piedmont, Franciacorta and to technical winemaking detail and all theVerona quickly come to mind, along with whizz-bang stainless steel and premium oakthe food experience of Emilia-Romagna. barrels you would want to see. It was not surprising that we enjoyed a range of their Our first visit took us through the wine finely crafted wines. We finished the eveningregion of Umbria, home of the quaffable with a hosted walking tour of Siena, with notessoave, the step off before Tuscany and a taken on likely enotecas for later visits.very much underrated area. We were hostedby Lady Livia of Castello Della Regine, The next day saw us in Montalcino, homea winery owned by her and her famous of the Brunello di Montalcino wines. TheseMilanese lawyer husband, Paolo Nodari, wines are the higher-priced versions offor a marvellous gourmet lunch and an sangiovese found in the Tuscany regioninteresting tasting of their unusual red and and have a reputation to match. Our first visitwhite blends, (such as their Bianco, made was to Argiano, a classic, stately Tuscanfrom a surprising blend of 30% chardonnay, villa built during the Renaissance period.30% sauvignon blanc, 30% riesling and 10% Here we enjoyed a nice range of wines, withpinot gris). These blends are combined to drinkability the hallmark. Not far away wasproduce the best possible wine rather than the boutique winery of La Togata, everyone’sas an afterthought. However, their 100 per idea of a summer wine retreat, with a Romancent sangiovese-based Riserva was also lawyer in charge. They offered nicely crafteda great surprise and would sit well with the wines, with artisanal sensitivity.best from nearby Tuscany. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 51

The vista from That night we enjoyed our first Winestate- T-shirts (which made us look like Irishthis winery hosted Celebration Dinner at the La tourists), our tour group voted to stay onoverlooking Bottega del 30 restaurant in a small village and enjoy the sumptuous hospitality ratherBarolo has to north of Siena. The love story of French chef than move on to our programmed nextbe one of the Helene, who followed her Italian husband, winery visit. “Cest la vita!”world’s most Franco, to this town can be seen in thebeautiful wine beautiful food that had our tour group Now staying in Florence, the groupregion views! raving. Some said it was the best meal they enjoyed a hosted morning tour of the city had ever eaten. If you dream of an Italian with free time for lunch before an afternoon52 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011 cooking school holiday, look no further. See visit to the Castello di Gabbiano winery, their website for more details. owned by Australia’s Foster’s Wine Group (now Treasury). This location offered a In the Chianti region we visited the spectacular view over the hills from the top extraordinary ancient walled town of San of the castle. After tasting a nice range of Gimignano where, after a cancelled late- wines, we liked the 2004 IGT 100 per cent evening winery visit, we commandeered sangiovese, which we were told wasn’t a local enoteca, shut the doors, took over labelled as riserva because they had “run their cellar and ordered the best wines out of labels”. Great value! in the store. A nice consolation! Then we travelled onwards and upwards to the Villa Now that our Tuscany wine sojourn was Sensi winery, a superb former hunting lodge over I found it interesting that, compared of the Medici family, where the hospitality with previous tours, many wineries were overflowed and our host Massimo delivered now admitting that a percentage of their the ultimate Italian slow food experience. The sangiovese wines contained cabernet or wines kept coming and we were amazed at merlot, following the lead of the “Super the great-value prices they commanded. Tuscans” from the Bolgheri Coast. Others Their wines are also available in Australia. were proudly pushing their concentrated 100 per cent sangiovese. It did seem odd Nothing in Italy is predictable. With wine that quite lean merlot was widely used to gifts for all, including lime green winery “soften” the sangiovese fruit. Sangioveses

can be quite tannic and acidic, often with courses of food, with varying ages of WINESTATE TOUR OFa herbal bitterness on the finish, which parmesan cheese and balsamic vinegar. ITALY 2010 - WEBSITESmakes them great food wines, but less so Our host, Pierluigi Medici, proudlyat wine competitions. Merlot, as a variety showed us his “hobby”, cellar where CASTELLO DELLE REGINEhas marginally less acids and tannins row after row of miniature barrels of www.castellodelleregine.com(although can still be quite lean as it is balsamic vinegar dating back 10, 20 andpart of the cabernet family) so maybe the 40 years were on display. Then, to top it FATTORIA DELLA TALOSAthought is that it can reduce the impact of off, Pierluigi organised a special morning www.talosa.itsangiovese toughness. However, I would visit to the local parmesan factory. We felthave thought that a blend with well-ripened very privileged. POLIZIANO AZIENDAsyrah (shiraz) would have been a better AGRICOLAoption, and I noted that a few houses were After the optional parmesan visit, with www.carlettipoliziano.comexperimenting with this blend. some in the tour group venturing on to the Ferrari museum, we had a free day in ARGIANO On our third wine tour of Italy, for the first Parma, followed by the evening Winestate www.argiano.nettime we did a detour through the “food Celebration Dinner at the two-hatted,bowl” of the country, Emilia Romagna, and elegant Parizzi restaurant, with a superb LA TOGATAwe were so glad we did. After a few hours wine list and food to match. www.brunellolatogata.netenjoying our own free-time long lunchand exploration of Bologna, the mother Before beginning our tour of Piedmont I LA BOTTEGA DEL 30ship (bus) headed on to the outskirts of advised our group that we were about to www.labottegadel30.itParma, where we were introduced to the encounter the “toughest” wines in Italy,delights of premium lambrusco, made in with mouth-ripping tannins and acid to VILLA SENSIa dry and semi-sweet fashion rather than boot, with tea leaves and herbs a feature of www.sensivini.comthe sickly-sweet, commercial style sold in these noble nebbiolos. By the time we hadbucketloads around the world. completed our tour I had to embarrassingly CASTELLO DI GABBIANO explain why we didn’t find any (maybe one). www.gabbiano.com Here at the Medici Ermete winery we In the ever-increasing globalisation of wine,experienced another ultimate Italian it seemed that producers were making MEDICI ERMETEfamily experience, where the whole softer, more consumer-friendly wines that www.medici.itfamily, including children, served us could be drunk earlier and without fear. PARIZZI RISTORANTE www.ristoranteparizzi.it PRODUTORRI DEL BARBARESCO www.produtorridelbarbaresco.com CANTINE PAOLO MANZONE www.barolomeriame.com PRUNOTTO www.prunotto.it AZIENDA AGRICOLA MARRONE www.agricolamarrone.com CASTELLO DI LUZZANO www.castelloluzzano.it LA MONTINA www.lamontina.it HOTEL DU LAC ET DU PARC www.dulacetduparc.com MONTE DEL FRA www.montedelfra.it RIVA DEL GARDA www.rivadelgarda.com RISTORANTE IL DESCO www.ildesco.com March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 53

Unfortunately, the trade-off is that we region. Here we saw first hand the trend After a relaxing tasting of Barolos withare unlikely to see as many of the great towards New World, earlier-released styles the obligatory prosciutto and soft Italianmasterpieces (but also fewer sump oil wines). of winemaking. The vista from this winery cheese from the delightful daughters, we overlooking Barolo has to be one of the ventured up the planks and railing to the To launch our Piedmont experience, world’s most beautiful wine region views! third-floor balcony-in-waiting to enjoy thewe began by visiting our old favourite, view. No dangers of OH&S here. What weProdutorri del Barbaresco, where el Next morning, bright-eyed and bushy- found hilarious was the story about theirsupremo Aldo Vacca gave us a masterclass tailed, we arrived at the Antinori-owned miniature dog, which we were told was likeof the region. I simply sat back and enjoyed Prunotto winery, a classy establishment. a cat and liked to the climb the building.the response from our tour group. If you get There we enjoyed a mini-masterclass of We thought “Yeah, right,” until the nexta chance it is worth a trip just to get to hear eight Piedmontese wines, all reflecting minute there he was, running over the terrahis amazing knowledge of the terroir and the purity of the grape from this high-tech, cotta roof tiles, three floors up.wines of Barbaresco and Barolo. Although high-expertise winery. We spent the rest ofhis winery is a co-operative it actually the afternoon exploring the lovely town of For our next visit we moved on to thechooses and picks the best fruit from its Alba, home to the white truffle. border region where Emilia Romagnamany growers to make premium wine, meets Lombardia and the amazing Castellounlike many others. We greatly enjoyed More enjoyment was in order the next di Luzzano which sits on the top of the hilla range tasting, followed by a hosted morning as we visited Azienda Agricola overlooking the valley where Roman legionsal fresco lunch at the local restaurant. Marrone, another lovely family winery, and northern invaders traveled during their halfway through creating a traditional- endless conflicts. Here our generous host, This was followed by an amazing vertical style Italian villa winery with all the natural Giovanella Fuggazza, showed us thetasting of barberas, dolcettos and barolos elements: solid wood beams, terracotta family church, the old Roman wine Cellar,at the Cantine Paolo Manzone, where tiles and iron. When it is completed it will the walled Estate and historic workersthe man himself took us through the truly be a delight for visits by tourists and cottages where tourists can book forcomplexities of the varietals and the winelovers alike. accommodation. Afterwards we sat in the Estate courtyard and enjoyed a range of theJOIN US ON OUR 2011 WINESTATE TOUR TO FRANCE. company’s rustic characterful wines alongFOR ALL THE EXCITING DETAILS SEE PAGE 25. with salumi and northern Italian cheeses. It was difficult to leave this idyllic setting – a snapshot of an earlier time! The coach was buzzing as we travelled on to Milan for a two-night stay, including a tour of the city the next morning and a Winestate Celebration Dinner that night. The next day was one of our most memorable, with a visit to the fabulous La Montina winery in the region of Franciacorta, This was organised by our Italian wine writer, Georgio Fragiacomo, who made sure all stops were out. Here the sparkling wines are made in the French methode champenoise style, offering great flavour at amazing value. When we arrived we were treated like royalty in a beautifully designed winery which had its own chef and culinary staff worthy of a Michelin- starred restaurant. After endless toasts by our host through sumptuous courses, we all voted to cancel the next winery visit and continue on with the ultimate expression of our Italian “long lunch”. Needless to say, the bus was very quiet as we arrived at our next destination, Riva del Garda, a small town on the northern end of Lake Garda, with the regions of Alto Adige to the north and Verona to the south. Here we appropriately booked into54 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

a spa and massage resort hotel, the Hotel from Ornellaia, Tignanello and Sassicaia, I say this at the end of each tour round-du Lac et du Parc. Set among old, cool- sangiovese from Antinori, nebbiolo from up: what makes our tours so enjoyable isclimate rainforest and next to the lake, Gaja and Angelo Cesare, amarone from the extraordinary hospitality shown to usit’s a highly recommended destination for Masi and too many others to mention; by our winery hosts, the interesting agendathose wanting to chill out for a few days. lovely aged wines that best showed off this of old-town visits (and free time to moochWe used this idyllic location as our base amazing country. around), along with some superb Winestatethe next day to travel south to visit the Celebration Dinners, but also the wonderfulAzienda Agricola Monte del Fra winery, As an epilogue and wind-down, the next conviviality of our tour group, where widelywhere food and wine was again laid on day was organised as a leisurely tourist diverse personalities become friends - whichby our charming hostess and a book experience for our group, with a ferry ride maybe is not difficult when good wineon winery dogs could have been written from Riva del Garda to Limone for lunch, and food is involved! Personally, my greatabout this location alone. After waving then an optional extension to Malcesine, enjoyment is seeing people enjoy themselvesfarewell, we were left to our own devices with spectacular water and granite hill through these great experiences.in the ancient town of Verona, where some scenes abounding.of our group hunted down the enotecaswhile others kept abreast of happeningsat Juliet’s balcony. A truly great Michelin-starred meal wasenjoyed that night as our last WinestateCelebration Dinner at Verona’s Il Desco,with chef/owner Elia Rizzo and his wifeand son (and staff) putting on a superbspread in a restaurant exuding style andsubstance. It was a nice official endingto the tour and worthy of the great daysenjoyed before. Throughout the tour weenjoyed some of Italy’s finest wines in ourCelebration Dinners, including cabernets March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 55

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINHigh-profile chefs opening interesting new Here’s a nod to the St Kilda of old together in a modern-Melbourne context.places took centre stage toward the end (a little grunge, a little cool) along with a Designed by Mills & Gorman and builtof 2010 in central Melbourne, keeping the new design that combines these elements over a two-year period, the large areafocus on quality with a lot of style and in with its own urban style which sees the allows for guests to choose how to dine.all instances a more relaxed feel. reopening of The Newmarket Hotel. Settle into the bar, sit by the open kitchen From the group behind the Middle Park - there’s flexibility in textures, moods and Chef Raymond Capaldi, who owned Hotel, the Albert Park Hotel and the Royal warmth in the space that carries over toand operated The Fenix in Richmond for Saxon in Richmond, group director Julian the menu. Breakfast is available Mondaymany years, followed by a few years of Gerner has again employed the rich skills to Saturday; lunch and dinner moves intowaiting for building developments to be of consultant chef Paul Wilson and Mark small tastes including goose prosciutto,realized, has opened Hare & Grace on Healy from 6 Degrees architects. They tuna carpaccio and oysters, and there’sCollins St and has created a space rich have given the old space a new fit-out and a section dedicated to risotto and onewith earthy, tactile finishes. Melbourne- have put their own stamp on the hotel. Here to polenta (so very northern Italian).based innovative interior designer Joost you will find a striking space of indoor and 495 Collins St,phone (03) 9614 7688.Bakker, who designed The Greenhouse outdoor dining areas which cleverly usesin Perth, has hung smokebush twigs from light and space with a modern retro feel. Philippe Mouchel, the highly regardedthe ceilings and put wall sketches by Barry The menu focuses on South American French chef who most recently operatedDrinan around the rooms. Raymond’s flavours that are conducive to a warm The Brasserie by Philippe Mouchel atexecutive chef is Daniel Schelbert and Australian climate. Think peppers, chillis, Crown, has opened his next venture, PM24,the collaboration has created a menu cured hams and rare-breed roasts from the with The Press Club Group in Russell Stthat is ‘market-driven’, which translates wood-fired oven. No wine or beer will be in the city. Philippe is focusing on whatto seasonal, simply prepared food done served in bottles, with four reds, four whites, he does best - a modern interpretation ofwith an edge and style - consider a chilled a sparkling and a rose all available by the classical French technique - incorporatingsalmon radish, aloe vera, creme fraiche, carafe, along with 17 beer taps serving flavours and styles from his many yearscucumber gazpacho or braised short some interesting brews. 34 Inkerman St, of working abroad, particularly in Japanbeef ribs, pickled tongue, horseradish St Kilda; phone (03) 9537 1777. and from his solid French training. Hiscurd and gravy. flavours are light, seasonally aware and Guy Grossi’s new restaurant, contemporary. A highlight of the menu is Raymond is known for his eclectic Merchant, opened in The Rialto in mid- the rotisserie of the day, which may beapproach to texture while never November and is a generous, open chicken, lamb or suckling pig that hascompromising on quality, and this is evident canvas from which the experienced been spit-roasted to bring out the flavoursin this menu; there’s lots going on but it is also and often generous and open chef can of the meat and, while there are also beefapproachable. There’s also the Mini Bar at express himself. Guy has collaborated dishes, seafood and offal, Philippe playsthe front, which has smaller plates to share, with the developers, the Grollo family, in with seasonal vegetables in dishes suchincluding Ortiz anchovies and artichokes in the new osteria (an Italian word referring as white and green asparagus or zucchinioil and an immediately comforting taster of to a place where a steady flow of diners flower crab fritters, although we’re dyingmac’n cheese croquettes. Hare & Grace has is the focus rather than a formal dining to try the scallop carpaccio with bottargaa healthy mix of a relaxed environment with structure) in the revamped Rialto to bring and yuzu mayonnaise. 24 Russell St;a focus on professionalism that is a great to the city a snapshot of Guy’s Venetian phone (03) 9207 7424.combination for the city worker and dweller. heritage (from his mother’s side) brought525 Collins St; phone (03) 9629 6755. Above: Hare & Grace entrance and interior.56 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011



perthgrapevineROD PROPERJOHNThe fare served at The Chimney (don’t more on the cooking and get some decent in the west, Mezza has been plaguedask) in the western climes of Northbridge wines, and then it should work well. 171 by staff shortages. Youthful workers withis a mix of Italian, French, Spanish, North James St, Northbridge; phone (08) 9328 industry cred have dumped their apronsAfrican and Australian. It therefore suits 6870. and black tees and headed north and eastgroup dining with multi-tastes and, although to the mines, where they earn a truckloadthe dining room is small, alfresco eating can It has no water views, no wide-angle vista of money in a short time. Meanwhile, webe arranged in kind weather. This modern over the city or a restful bucolic setting. It suffer slow, inadequate and unprofessionalclean-looking eatery opened its doors sits in a forgettable, inner-suburban red- service in our restaurants, bars, cafes andearly in 2010 in difficult times and is trying brick building, but the food at Restaurant hotels. Mezza management is mindful ofhard to please with top-quality ingredients Amusé is pretty good - well, more than its shortcomings and promises new thingsand very realistic prices (for Perth) but the that, it is seriously, seriously good. It was in 2011. It has potential. 511 Beaufort St,execution in the kitchen can be improved. recently named 2010 Restaurant of the Highgate; phone (08) 9228 8941.I order an entree of the summer Italian Year by the National Savour Australiaclassic, vitello tonnato ($15). Small, thinly Restaurant & Catering body. Nearly 2000 Leading Perth chef Neal Jackson ofsliced pieces of tender veal loin are placed restaurants were assessed by 500 specially Jackson’s in Highgate has returnedstrategically on a plate and covered with trained judges in the Australia-wide contest from a trip to Spain with renewed vigoura creamy mayonnaise, a pillow of shaved and Amusé chef/owner Hadleigh Troy was and enthusiasm. He loved the laid-backfennel and a sprinkling of salty capers. awarded the top gong. It’s been a while approach of many bars/restaurants,The lot is served chilled. It is a creditable since Perth Grapevine dined there - must especially in San Sebastian, where heeffort by the kitchen and excellent value, give it another nudge, and soon. 64 Bronte would simply graze on pinchos (Basquebut the mayonnaise could have more St, East Perth; phone (08) 9325 4900. tapas), enjoy a couple of glasses of wineflavour of the sea (classically tuna) and and then tell the proprietor what he hadthe dish would be lifted by a few slices Mezza Bar & Tapas is still feeling its way had and pay accordingly on leaving.of fresh lemon. Next, a main of seafood in Highgate after opening late in 2010. There was a high level of trust. As withpaella ($28) is served. Small pieces of The retro-style bar area itself is small and most lovers of fine food, it was the simplejuicy prawn, octopus, calamari and cockle spills out and down to a lounge with bright things that attracted Neal. His favouriteare reinforced with cubes of spicy chorizo plastic furnishings and colourful murals dish was served at Tapas 24 in Barcelonain a sticky glutinous rice mixture which is which add a casual contemporary look by El Bulli chef Carles Abellan. It wasredolent of good stock and smoky paprika. a toasted cheese sandwich with jamonAgain the ingredients are first class; it’s to the place. The tapas selection is tiny iberico (ham) and crumbled truffle (€8). “Itthe cooking of the rice that lets the dish but developing, as is the drinks list, which was so amazing, I went back three times todown. It has taken on the consistency of a lacked direction at the start. A tapas bar eat it,” says the celebrated chef. We maycreamy risotto and not the individual drier, needs at least a couple of manzanillas just see a little of the Iberian influence ongrainy texture of paella rice. Shame, as this or finos, the traditional light white fortified future menus at Jackson’s. And the hamdish could be a standout. The restaurant wine of Spain but the Mezza list has and cheese sandwich? 483 Beaufort St,is licensed, has fine stemware and a good none, although a few Spanish white, red Highgate; phone (08) 9328 1177.selection of beer and spirits/liqueurs. The and rosado table wines are featured. Awine list, however, is a shocker and needs number of well-sourced, quality Australian Left: Restaurant Amusé exterior.immediate attention. The Chimney needs wines would also help. Beer drinkers are Centre: Mezza Bar & Tapas interior mural.to reduce its range of dishes, concentrate adequately catered for and there are six Right: The Chimney’s vitello tonnato. or so cocktails for those who enjoy that sort of thing. Like many hospitality venues58 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

adelaidegrapevine GRAEME ANDREWSAs South Australia matures, we’re are the real stars of every creation. Daily spanish onion and feta are typical mains.increasingly exposed to innovative concepts specials extend eating options, plus A tapas tasting plate starter temptswith fresh uses for our heritage architectural there’s a dessert of the day for those with diners to an around-the-world tastegems. William Charlick, who constructed the a sweet tooth. Coeliac considerations melody, while failure to order the doublevast red brick Adelaide Fruit and Produce are met with an obliging ‘can do’. Put chocolate and macadamia brownie withExchange in 1900 to capture overflow from Est on your ‘must go’ list now! 30 East double cream and sticky fudge saucethe crowded and tumultuous East End Tce, Adelaide; phone (08) 8359 2272; will induce tears of regret.Markets, would, I’m sure, be truly amazed www.estpizzeria.com.au.by what’s now morphed in the 21st century, The Fassina Group’s vast liquor experiencefrom his early labour. The Fassina Group must have a has resulted in an excellent wine list crystal ball to pre-empt SA Premier covering both contemporary trends and One tiny office fronting East Terrace has Mike Rann’s 30-year future plan to grow classic styles. Top new players along withbecome the world headquarters of Est Mt Barker by 20,000 people over the old have been brought thoughtfully together,Pizzeria. This edgy, highly sophisticated next 15 years. Such a vast explosion producing a list covering all price points, of a rural town’s population surely including a sprinkling of bottle-aged gems.but relaxed eatery is decidedly Italian- heralds unique business opportunities.centric, cleverly fused with an Australian, Fassina purchased the Mt Barker Hotel, But The Barker’s regeneration is not abig city urban feel. And right on the money an iconic pub with a history dating fully ‘done deal’. Deep underground, 18thtoo, with its canny pitch to savvy local ‘now back to 1845. But all those years had century cellars are being faithfully restored,generation’, food and wine aficionados. taken their toll. Architects Follard & soon to emerge as a time-warp cluster of Panozzo were called in to produce private function and tasting rooms. Gawler Abdulla Daher and Hayden Fyfe, of exciting revitalisation. Now, after a few St, Mt Barker; phone (08) 8391 1003;A-list lunchtime mecca Pranzo, are the wheelbarrows of money, coupled with www.thebarkerhotel.com.au.creators but both have quickly retreated three years of heavy-duty extensionsfrom spotlight positions, allowing head and reconstruction, The Barker opened Lucia’s Pizzeria & Spaghetti Barpizza chef Alex McKinley and front of its’ doors in September 2010. And has been formally recognised as anhouse whiz Mark Reginato to inject their what a magnificent grand edifice now Adelaide restaurant legend by the 2010own engaging personalities. So what’s it occupies this prime Gawler St. location. Adelaide Food Awards. Opened in 1957,all about? Restaurant, pizzeria or bar? it continues under the hands-on directionShort answer - all boxes ticked, but that The exterior projects subtle visual of Maria Rosella and sister Nicci Bugeja,said, there’s much more. Meet, drink, eat links to the past, but once inside, first daughters of founder Lucia. Only subtlepizza and have fun appears to be the impressions are - wow! A series of decor changes have been made over theoverriding mantra. cleverly intertwined soaring atriums years, retaining original modest ambience induce a theatric sense of vastness and and dishes reflecting the establishment’s Crispy thin-base pizzas, deliciously space. The lounge/bar, complete with early culinary ethos. The only nod to theanointed with a hint of wood oven smoke, massive, rough-hewn stone fireplace, has 21st century is the addition of a brief wineare cornerstone treats. Top-quality all the earmarks of a soothing sanctuary. list. Take a stroll down memory lane andingredients, deftly scattered, produce But for sheer ambience, the bistro tops enjoy a delicious coffee too. West Wall,the perfect balance between topping and it all. It’s a large, seductively inviting Adelaide Central Market, Gouger St;base. Margarita, cacciatore, prawn and square, topped with a polished, slatted phone (08) 8231 2303.mushroom act as familiar menu anchors, timber pyramid ceiling, with an arrestingbut yummy gnocchi and polenta provide central lighting feature. Four giant, open, Left: Crispy skin atlantic salmon on an orange & almondstrong support roles. Texture and taste coarse-fabric beige drums tumble from cous cous with a salad of rocket, spanish onion & feta. the apex. Beige, bone and dark brown Right: Al fresco dining at The Barker Hotel. dominate this room’s colours. But despite its good looks, The Barker’s food is the star. Head chef Trent Hay has created a modern menu that reads well but, importantly, delivers what’s promised. Pan-fried chicken breast marinated with coriander and mint, on a warm salad of beetroot, snow peas. sweet potato and beans topped with cucumber and lemon yoghurt, or crisp- skin Atlantic salmon on an orange and almond couscous, with a salad of rocket, March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 59

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KING“I feel like a tourist in my own city!” from the central bar that services all the Crab Burger (a Thai crab cake with Asianshouted my dining companion as we restaurants. You can sit in the 40-seat salad, lime dressing and sweet chillielbowed our way through the throng outdoor dining area at Kenji, but we relish) - all with a price tag of $21.50.converging on Opera Kitchen. We had preferred to perch at the 12-seater bar The sides are very smart, too, includingboth predicted that crowds would be a to watch the brigade of chefs slice and parmesan and truffle fries. Most peoplecertainty within days of the soft opening dice our next tasty morsel - carpaccio wash down the burgers with glasses ofof the new alfresco food hall on the of yellowfin tuna spiked with lemon and red from the central bar – say, a Spinifexlower concourse of the Sydney Opera garlic-infused oil. The meal drew to a Papillon ’09 from the Barossa.House. Great food and one of the world’s close with New Style Scallop Sashimi - amost famous views? Why hadn’t anyone hymn to fusion cuisine that combined The Cloudy Bay Fish Co is a neighbourthought of this obvious tag team before? thinly sliced scallops with a warm butter of Charlie & Co at the CBD Westfield and soy sauce. and at Opera Kitchen. John Susman Who knows and who cares? The line-up is one of the most respected seafoodof five restaurants filling this iconic space At all the other Opera Kitchenhas been worth the wait. Let’s get one restaurants, you choose a table, order consultants in Sydney and has partneredthing straight, though. The celebrated at the counter and the staff find you by with Isaac Piper of Cloudy Bay Clams “toquintet of eateries is not about haute looking for your number. Justin North supply seafood straight from the sea tocuisine served on damask cloths. Nor has a big presence at the new venue the consumer”. The offerings are classy,should they be. Part of the pleasure of with two restaurants - Becasse Bakery as you would expect, from braisedvisiting the area around the Opera House and Charlie & Co Burgers. A man who albacore tuna to fresh-as salmon fromis to stroll along the foreshore even if you clearly believes that good food doesn't Marlborough Sound in Enzed.have seen Joern Utzon’s architectural have to be pretentious, Justin can affordmasterpiece many times before. Fast to be cocky. He’s won a string of awards One in five Sydneysiders has an Asianservice and a casual atmosphere also for his Becasse and Etch restaurants in heritage. Miss Chu, an offshoot of itsallow more people to eat it and beat it in the CBD from Best European Restaurant spectacularly successful hole-in-the-walla setting that took Oprah Winfrey’s breath in Australia to Chef of the Year. namesake in Darlinghurst, carries the flagaway. Better still, Opera Kitchen is open Vietnamese-style. It’s run by Nga Chufrom 7.30am to late every day so you can It would be going too far to compare (known as Nahji), who came to Australiaenjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner, or all Becasse Bakery with Poilane in Paris, in the late 1970s from Laos, and thethree if the notion takes your fancy. but the lightness of the croissants and menu stand-out is the Vietnamese rice the perfection of the patisserie selection paper rolls. A Scarborough semillon was The only restaurant that takes bookings faithfully reflect Justin’s European a good foil for Shanghai pork dumplingsis Kenji, where the man with the razor- training. There’s a line-up of artisan and a warm vermicelli salad. Be carefulsharp knives is fabled sushi master Kenji breads, muffins and pastries to keep the with the wagyu beef pho, though. TheNishinakagawa, formerly of Unkai in the yummy mummies happy in the mornings, harbour views can be so distractingANA Hotel and the one-hatted Koi. We plenty of upmarket snacks to satisfy the that you could fulfil the old proverb -started our meal with an usuzukuri of lunchtime cravings of city workers and there's many a slip between cup and lip.whiting - super-fine slices of fish arranged “real food” for theatre and opera goers www.operakitchen.com.au.in a perfect circle and served with ponzu grabbing a bite in the early evening.sauce. Many of the dishes we ordered Think almond croissants, warm goat’s Left: Kenji interior with its counter dining.contained fish, so we opted for a Pooley cheese and caramelised onion bread, Right: Snapper Carpaccio - thinly sliced snapperpinot grigio which arrived very quickly homemade lamb and paprika sausage with Kenji’s green sauce and salmon roe. rolls and salted peanut brittle. Charlie & Co is a burger concept that Justin debuted in the glitzy new downtown Westfield shopping centre in October. Inspired by Charlie Nagreen, whom food experts credit with inventing the hamburger, Justin takes the idea well beyond beef, onions and an indifferent bun. His gourmet buns are made by the chefs at Becasse and menu listings run through the Wagyu & Co Burger, the Federation Burger (an angus beef patty teamed with aged cheddar, a fried egg and bacon) and the Hand-Crafted Chilli60 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011



winewords M A T T T H O M S O NSKYE MURTAGHBorn and raised in Central Otago, Matt What do you consider your greatest reds like those varieties described earlier.Thomson took a shine to the winemaking achievement in winemaking at Saint I’ve moved from bigger, oaky whites to, Iworld from a very young age and was Clair to date? guess, more subtle whites. It doesn’t meanreading everything he could on the subject This is a hard one. Maybe the IWC White to say I don’t go back to those wines everyby the time he was 16. Armed with a Winemaker Trophy? Maybe the IWC now and then though.science degree from the University of International Pinot Noir Trophy or theOtago, he took his first practical steps into sauvignon ones? Maybe assembling such Where will you spend Christmas andthe business in the Marlborough region in a talented and passionate team at the what will you be drinking?late 1992. His experience today stretches winery, or maybe just getting so many loyal I’m not 100 per cent sure but I suspect itfar beyond the South Island. He has Saint Clair fans who keep coming back. will be in Blenheim and I will be sharingworked on behalf of UK distributors as a something damn good! I’m on a bit of a‘flying winemaker’ in both Italy and France How would you describe your own Cote Rotie trend at the moment!and continues to work in both countries personal wine collection?- as well as Spain. With the help of his My collection is varied. I have the usual If you weren’t a winemaker you wouldfamily he also manages his own vineyard suspects of Bordeaux, but with an emphasis have likely been a … ?interests in Marlborough and Italy. Matt’s on Sauternes. I have a few from Burgundy, … a bankrupt professional sportsman.been involved with Marlborough’s Saint but I’m getting tired of the disappointmentsClair Family Estate since the winery’s from them being ruined by brettanomyces What’s the most useful trait anyinception in 1994 and today is their chief since 2003. I have plenty of Barolo and winemaker should have?winemaker, leading a well-respected team Barbaresco and quite a few Tuscans. Attention to detail. One mistake destroys allwhich comprises five other winemakers and Obviously there is plenty from New Zealand of the creativity you’ve shown.assistant winemakers, along with seven too - through swaps etc.cellar and lab staff. When he’s not busy What do you see as some of the biggestin the vineyard, Matt’s likely to be found Do you have a soft spot for any one challenges facing the New Zealand wineon the water indulging in his other major particular variety? industry in the next five years and howpassion, kayaking. I could say aromatic reds - nebbiolo, pinot might they be met? noir and cool-climate syrah. We timed our 65 per cent increase inHow do you think making wines in production in 2008 really nicely with theItaly and France helps your work at What’s your favourite wine accessory? global economic crisis and a worldwideSaint Clair? I don’t really have one thing, but you must oversupply of wine. It was a shame becauseIt gives me the opportunity to look have good glasses! we were/are very close to being fully plantedback at New Zealand’s industry. It in Marlborough at least. Our volume of salesallows me to appreciate our strengths Who are your ‘heroes’ (past or present) have gone up and are pretty close to what ourand weaknesses. It’s easy to become in the wine industry? production is now, which is great, but we’veintroverted by being in the same region People who have influenced me a lot over just got to keep over-delivering and to createfor a long time. the years are (in no particular order): Kim diversity in what we make in sauvignon, and Crawford, Simon Waghorn, Martin Shaw through developing other varieties.What’s the most memorable bottle of and David Gleave. I also work with a greatwine you’ve ever consumed? group of winemakers in Alana McGettigan, What’s your ideal food and wine matchBut there have been so many! One of the Glenn Thomas and Fiona Turner. in the warmer months?only downsides of becoming a winemaker Sauvignon and cricket, pinot and a searedis that I’m always assessing wines Where is the most unusual place you’ve tuna steak.critically, even when I’m a consumer: ever consumed wine?“What’s wrong with this bottle?” or, “What On a beach in southern England with awould I have done?” Sometimes, though, bottle of La Spinetta Nebbiolo, watchingyou just get a bottle and go. There the sun go down. Well, the sun went downhave been a few of those experiences, all right and the tide was coming and therethankfully, and one of them was with were 100m cliffs behind us. It ended upmy friend David Gleave in Verona in being quite a mission getting the 4km back!Restaurant Al Pompiere, where we had aGiuseppe Rinaldi 1998 Canubbio Barolo. Have your personal wine tastes changedThe wine was perfect; old-fashioned red over the years?roses. When Barolo is like that it has a I guess they have evolved in the red sectormagic which is hard to beat. from Bordeaux blends to aromatic, ethereal62 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011



bookwormsMIKE JAENSCHTHE AUSTRALIAN WINE MANZANILLA HEART & SOUL -ANNUAL 2011 AUSTRALIA’S FIRST By Christopher Fielden and Javier Hidalgo FAMILIES OF WINEBy Jeremy Oliver Published by Grub StreetDistributed by Macmillan Publishing RRP $29.99 By Graeme LoftsServices Published by WileyRRP $29.95 (also available online at When it comes to niche topics for a wine RRP $39.95www.jeremyoliver.com) book, manzanilla is about as niche as it gets, but this largely neglected sherry is This must be the Australian wine industry’sIt’s that time of year again, when annual developing a wider following, particularly most elite group - and deservedly so.wine guide authors emerge from captivity in its home country, Spain, but also around In an era when many illustrious labelswith their latest volumes. In the main, the world. Manzanilla has become the have migrated from private to corporatethese are quality offerings from writers well Spaniards’ overwhelmingly favourite ownership, there are still family winemakersrespected in the industry and marketplace. sherry, to the extent that over the six days manning the ramparts, stoutly defending their of Seville’s annual feria, or festival, they independence and heritage as the army of The formula tends to be fairly standard: consume 600,000 bottles of it. conglomerates lays siege.taste thousands of wines, sort them intocategories such as winery/region/varietal/ Unsurprisingly, or perhaps surprisingly, Launched in 2009, Australia’s First Familiesprice, rate them on quality and value and this is the first book to focus exclusively of Wine are a mixed dozen of wineries withadd the author’s awards for best wines. on this light, ultra-dry and delicate fino a combined 5500 hectares of vineyards sherry that can be produced only in the and more than 1200 years of collective Jeremy Oliver does all that, but has an coastal town of Sanlucar de Barrameda in experience. The eight criteria for entry to thisoutstanding point of difference which this Andalucia, which is set between the sea group are onerous: among them are beingreviewer hasn’t seen in any other guide: and the Guadalquivir (the ‘Great River’ in family-controlled, having a business historyratings for previous vintages he has tasted Arabic) - a microclimate said to impart a involving at least two generations and beingof the same wine - which could be a handful hint of saltiness to the wine. able to offer a tasting of at least 20 vintagesfor some wines, up to 20 and 30-plus of one or more iconic brands. And, while fivevintages for icons such as Penfolds reds. Like the wine itself, Manzanilla is a rather of the dozen date back to the 1860s and ’70s,It has colour-coding, indicating whether a dry little tome, purely text, unembellished one is a relative youngster as a 1986 arrival.wine is possibly too old, best drunk now with any photograph or illustration, saveor will improve, along with a range of its for a solitary, basic map. It probably loses Author Graeme Lofts has compiledrecommended drinking years and a points some marketability because of that bare- compellingly readable stories of theserating. So, for example, that 1992 Bin 389 bones simplicity, yet it’s a fascinating read, families, illustrated with wonderful imagesyou tucked away still has a couple of good thanks to the wealth of historical facts and both historic and modern, and fascinatingyears left, but the same vintage of Bin 407 figures mined from the archives of the late snippets - such as why the Smiths of Yalumbais probably past it. Duchess of Medina Sidonia. added the Hill to their surname, and how Murray Tyrrell nicked some chardonnay In this 14th edition, Oliver reviews 14,000 The bodegas of all the leading producers cuttings from Penfolds.wines in a classy, glossy presentation in are visited, and there’s a sampling offull colour with labels of each of the 1200 seafood and meat-based recipes including The philosophy of these families is elegantlycurrent releases rated between 87-89 and a dash or a big splash of manzanilla. summed up by Emeri De Bortoli: “It’s our life,96+ points, the best wines of their kind - it’s not just a business. So you put your heartand plenty more. and soul into everything.”64 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

Chinathe wine & spirit insiderMarch/April 2011 Issue 116 FREE COPY TopWine 24-26 MAY, 2011 BEIJING CHINA WORLD TRADE CENTERinn tehwis issrueeleases www.topwinechina.comand THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS A PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THETop 40 LIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER.Best Wine Buys Under $20 Winestate Publishing ABN 56 088 226 411

311 TASTED204 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESA very strong tasting of new releases this time, with the only Windance Margaretdisappointments being in the pinot gris, pinot noir and rosé River Sauvignoncategories. Pick of the bunch were the rieslings, semillons and Blanc Semillonblends and chardonnay among the whites and merlot, grenache 2010 HHHand red varietals for the reds. As usual, cabernet sauvignon and Nice varietal aromas and ablends and shiraz and blends were consistently strong. crisp and lively palate with genuine varietal flavours.SPARKLING Griffith Park OTHER WHITE Preston Peak Aperitif style. $20 Sparkling Brut VARIETALS Single Vineyard10 TASTED NV HHH & BLENDS Gewurztraminer Sandalford Estate6 AWARDED Yeasty aromas mixed 2010 HHH1/2 Reserve Margaret with candied fruit and 22 TASTED Intense rose petal River VerdelhoA group of simple pleasant, sweet, fruity 10 AWARDED nose and rich, full and 2010 HHHquaffers for enjoyable flavours. $9.99 somewhat oily palate Rich, honeyed bouquetlunchtime drinking. Patrick of The better wines with the rose petal showing some Coonawarra Mother here showed deft characters carried development, and a fullBurk Salter South of Pearl Coonawarra winemaking skills. through. $32 citrus palate. $22.95Australia Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Generally the fruit levels Anvers BraboShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Noir NV HHH were more on the simple South Australia Tertini SouthernSmells of spices and Fresh, juicy aromatics lift side, so winemaking Sauvignon Blanc Highlands Arneisprunes with leathery off the nose and vibrant skills were critical. Semillon 2010 HHH 2010 HHHnotes and has sweet, zesty lemon flavours fill Easy drinker with Interesting perfumedmouthfilling blackberry the mouth. $18.99 Voyager Estate pleasant herbaceousness nose - smells of pearsflavours with a hint of Margaret River and crisp acidity. Serve and citrus. Medium-spicy oak. $15 Sauvignon Blanc icy cold. $15 weight palate with pear Semillon 2010 HHHH Taylors Clare Valley notes. $35Coates Cuvee Pungent aromas - all GewurztraminerConsonance gooseberries and 2010 HHH De BortoliSparkling Shiraz asparagus - and a palate Lovely floral/musky nose Reserve Release2009 HHH1/2 that has good length of and very dry, aperitif- EZ Yarra ValleyYoung, simple wine with delicate green flavours style palate with crisp Gewurztraminerspicy black fruit bouquet with fresh, crunchy melon flavours. $18 Riesling Pinot Grisand nice sweet plum acidity. $24 Voyager Estate 2010 HHHflavours with fine tannins Margaret River Lolly-like nose within background. $20 Patritti Jimmy’s Chenin Blanc a perfumed lift, and Hat Adelaide Hills 2010 HHH pleasant, spicy fruitBalgownie Premium Savagnin Arneis Fresh, crisp wine flavours with crispCuvee Rosé NV HHH Pinot Gris with some sweetness acid. $38Attractive floral/violet- 2010 HHH1/2 and attractive lemonylike aromas followed by Green apple pie fruit. $20 SAUVIGNONa very sweet berry fruit nose with a hint of BLANCpalate. $19 development and a pleasant, soft, peach 24 TASTEDBarossa Valley palate that’s slightly 14 AWARDEDEstate E&E Black sweet. $12.50Pepper Barossa The judges agreedValley Sparkling this was a betterShiraz 2005 HHH class than usual.Very interesting nose of Most wines were wellsoy sauce and Chinese defined without excessspices with toasty/ residual sugar - a bigsavoury flavours. $50 improvement over 2009.66 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingAll Hallow’s Eve Braided River Braided River The Crossings Sidewood AdelaideMarlborough Marlborough Lighter in Alcohol Awatere Valley Hills SauvignonSauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Marlborough Blanc 2010 HHH2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2 Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Gooseberry aromasSmoky complexity on Old-school style - lots 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2 with a savoury edge andthe nose, with big fruity of tinned peas and Soft green aromas of Complex, herbaceous good depth of citrusaromas and herbal/citrus asparagus characters. herbs and limes and bouquet with simple, flavours with tropicalnotes. Good palate. Very attractive and with good citrus-like varietal fresh, classic passionfruit notes. $24.50Acid-based flavours powerful acidity. $19 flavours with slight flavours and crisp acidityshowing a citrus overtone residual sweetness and to balance. $19 PINOT GRIS/with well tempered tangy finish. $19 Reillys Wines Ryder GRIGIOresidual sugar. $18.99 Verdun Park Lyla Adelaide Hills Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 16 TASTEDCloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH 7 AWARDEDMarlborough 2010 HHH1/2 Candied nose withSauvignon Blanc Aromatic, pungent a perfumed, floral Disappointing! Although2010 HHHH1/2 tropical fruit nose and lift and light-bodied, the dull colours, oftenClassic sauvignon blanc subtle, mango-like well-balanced, citrus evident in this variety,with excellent balance flavours with a hint palate. $14 are acceptable, thereand a nice interplay of of sweetness and an Hugo McLaren Vale were too many of these.tinned pea and tropical/ astringent ending. $20 Sauvignon Blanc “Dull in colour and dullpassionfruit characters 2010 HHH in flavour,” suggestedwith a crisp acid Light nettle nose with one judge. A few rosebackbone and a long, tropical notes and above the pack.clean finish. $35 loads of developing passionfruit flavours. $16Patrick ofCoonawarra Mother Aldi Stores Kaiora Prince of Orange Tertini Southernof Pearl Sauvignon Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Highlands Pinot GrisBlanc 2010 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHH 2010 HHH1/2Steely, almost riesling- 2010 HHH1/2 Tight wine with candied Very light, developinglike style with its bath Lean and tight and tropical fruit characters pear/quince aromassalts, lemons and limes a good example of and crisp acidity to with slight smokiness.and crisp acidity to a herbal style - very balance. $21 Medium-weight palatebalance the touch of varietal. Good flavour Step Road Adelaide has chalky flavours andresidual sugar. $18.99 and texture - some Hills Sauvignon good acid. $25Sinclair Swallow residual sugar. $9.99 Blanc 2010 HHHHill South West Smells of bath powderAustralia Sauvignon and flowers and has aBlanc 2010 HHH1/2 clean, simple, citric acidBroader style - a touch palate. $21.90on the simple side - buthas good herbaceouscharacters and a firmacid backbone. $16 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 67

NEW RELEASESSirromet Le Sauvage RIESLING Pokolbin Estate Reillys WatervaleThe Wild Granite Hunter Valley Clare Valley RieslingBelt Pinot Gris 16 TASTED Riesling 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH1/22010 HHH1/2 12 AWARDED Smells like brown lime Spicy/floral nose withWell-made wine with a Very strong class of well- juice with a dash of a hint of smoke. Greatsmoky bacon-like nose made wines with nice citrus. Very long, fresh depth of rich citrusand fresh fruit flavours consistency and some palate with austere flavours with lively acidwith drying acidity and good ageing propositions. lemon/lime flavours and balance and long finish.light tannins. $55 Patrick of long, drying, astringentBeresford Highwood Coonawarra Estate finish. $25 5+ $18McLaren Vale Pinot Wrattonbully Riesling Taylors St AndrewsGrigio 2010 HHH 2010 HHHH1/2 Clare Valley Riesling Leconfield Old VinesEstery, citrus nose and Austere, cool-climate style 2007 HHHH Coonawarra Rieslingcrisp, citrussy fruit palate with pleasant floral/citrus Lovely example of an 2010 HHH1/2with slight oily texture bouquet and tight, fresh aged riesling with kero- Lively wine. Orangeand good acidity. $15.99 palate with crisp lemon/ like complexity, nice blossom-like nose - someKirrihill Serendipity lime flavours and a hint citrus aromas, tight, lively floral nuances - andVineyard Single of musk stick. Has great and complex palate and fresh, zingy palate withVineyard Adelaide structure and length. $22 bright acidity. $35 crisp lemon flavours.Hills Pinot Grigio2010 HHH Tertini Southern Grant Burge Thorn 5+ $24.95Nutty development Highlands Riesling Barossa Rieslingshowing on the nose 2008 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH Rockridge Clare Kimbarra Winesand good fruit flavours Complex, lifted aged Delicate, estery, floral Valley Watervale Great Westernintensity with crisp kerosene nose - very lime bouquet and good Riesling 2010 HHH Riesling 2010 HHHacidity. $16 attractive old-school length of restrained Full-flavoured, fragrant Fragrant nose withTaylors Adelaide style. Very good palate citrus flavours on a tight wine with smoky bacon delicate lime zest aromasHills Clare Valley with crisp, clean lime palate with some very aromas and nice aged and a similar palate - veryPinot Gris 2010 HHH and lemon flavours with crisp acid. A keeper. lemon flavours. Drink drinkable. $27Sweaty confectionery toasty honeyed age now. $13nose and light, crisp starting to show. $30 5+ $23 Bethany Steinbruchpalate with a chalky Hartz Barn Wines Barossa Rieslingfinish. $18 General Store 2009 HHHPossums Wines Eden Valley Riesling Toasty kero nose andDr John’s 2010 HHH very sweet, lively palateMcLaren Vale Pinot Excellent food wine with full of flavour with highGris 2010 HHH good depth of citrus fruit level of acidity. $14Broad, developing, and high in acid. $25melon pulp nose and SEMILLONsoft, simple, off-dry Karra Yerta Wines & BLENDSpalate. $28 Barossa RangesBraided River Riesling 2010 HHH 15 TASTEDHawkes Bay Pinot Estery lemon rind 10 AWARDEDGris 2009 HHH bouquet and tight, crispJasmine/honeysuckle lime palate. Nice aperitif Great alternative toaromas and soft, style. 3-5 $25 sauvignon blanc, withrounded palate with nice mouthfeel andcrisp floral flavours. $19 fruit expression.DAY 1 - JUDGES James Godfrey Ella Robinson Chief fortified winemaker Project Manager - Peter Simic for Treasury Wines Industry Applications Editor/publisher Winestate (formerly Fosters Wine for the Australian Wine Magazine. More than 30 years’ Group). Senior wine show Research Institute. experience in the wine industry. judge on the Australian Member of the AWRI’s Formerly founding publisher of National wine shows. quality judging panel a US wine magazine, manager Member of the Australian since 2002. Completed of the SA Wine Information Wine Export judging panel the Advanced Wine Bureau, and wine educator with regulating the quality of Assessment Course Regency College of TAFE in wines sent overseas. in 2004. SA. Peter is also a regular wine commentator on national radio and television programs.68 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingBrokenwood ILR Smokin Gun Flametree Embers TemptationReserve Hunter Margaret River Margaret River ResistantValley Semillon Semillon Sauvignon Semillon Sauvignon Wine Cellaring2005 HHHHH Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 Blanc 2010 HHHHoneyed, toasty, Herbaceous aromas Zesty, light-bodied wine Your wine is a valuable andaged classic. “Wow!” with sweaty notes and with good length of treasured asset,Beautifully developed crisp lemon flavours asparagus/tinned pea to important to risk beingaromas and lovely balanced by firm acidity. characters. $18 ruined by poor storage...balanced varietal Tropical notes on theflavours with loads of finish. $17.50 De Bortoli Sacred • Climate controlledhoneyed elements. Preveli Margaret Hill Semillon • 7 Day AccessExcellent example. At its River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc • Alarmed & CCTVpeak. $45 Sauvignon Blanc 2010 HHHPokolbin Estate 2010 HHH1/2 Fresh, zesty wine - simple with Digital RecordingPhil Swannell Nice lean, aperitif style but with good consumer • Conveniently LocatedHunter Valley with smoky accents appeal. Nice balance of • 6 Cases up to HundredsSemillon 2010 HHHH on the nose and good tropical/citrus fruit. $7.50 • No Handling FeesLight, honeyed characters complexity of herbal • No Access Chargeson the nose with nice flavours with a clean Forester Estate • No Fixed Contractslifted aromatics. Good acid finish. $18.95 Margaret Riverpalate with fruit weight, Semillon Sauvignon Adelaidetart flavours and crisp Aldi Stores Precious Blanc 2010 HHHacid. One for the cellar. Earth Semillon Complex gooseberry Thebarton Sauvignon Blanc aromas showing early 08 8443 8022 5+ $25 2010 HHH development, which isBethany Barossa Pleasant lemon/straw echoed on the palate. $20 BrisbaneSemillon 2009 HHHH aromas and simple dryComplex, toasty semillon white flavours with firm Frog Belly Miltonwith big, rich, smoky/ acid backbone. $2.49 Margaret River 07 3217 5555honeyed aromas and Semillon 2010 HHHcrisp, dry, sour lemon Lots of green herbal Sydneyflavours. Very youthful, characters on nose andzesty wine. $18 nice weight of fresh, Artarmon zesty, herbaceous 02 9413 3377 flavours. $20 Brookvale CHARDONNAY 02 9905 1177 21 TASTED Camperdown 15 AWARDED 02 9519 3799 Strong class with a range Rozelle of younger wines that 02 9555 1099 can only improve with age, as well as some Waterloo lovely aged wines which 02 9699 9333 showed appropriate oak, good fruit and Melbourne winemaking skill. AbbotsfordDuane Coates DAY 2 - JUDGES 03 9417 1477Winemaker for Cleggett’s,Coates & Raydon Estate Nick Haselgrove HuntingdaleWines. Duane has a Winestate’s 2010 03 9543 8099Masters of Oenology Australian Winemakerfrom Adelaide University of the Year. Winemaker/ Ivanhoeand has gained overseas Director of Adelaide 03 9497 5900winemaking experience Winemakers. Former chiefin Burgundy, the Northern winemaker at Haselgrove Port MelbourneRhone Valley regions in Wines. A ‘flying 03 9646 7766France, and the Douro winemaker’ from 1993-95.Valley in Portugal. Judge at Hobart for 3 years Ph: 1800 658 855 and associate judge at www.kss.com.au Adelaide in 1996-97. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 69

NEW RELEASES The Lane Vineyard Goundrey RC Reginald Homestead Margaret Germein Adelaide River Chardonnay Hills Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2 2009 HHHH1/2 Quite herbal sauvignon Lifted peach/melon blanc-like in character. aromatics with a hint of Nice flavour balance oak, and some lovely and length, with good retained fruit flavours level of acidity and a with nice malo notes clean end. $17.50 and a long, cleansing Elderton Eden Valley acid backbone. $100 Chardonnay 2010 HHH1/2McGuigan The Thompson Estate Barwang 842 Saracen Estates Well-oaked style withShortlist Adelaide Margaret River Tumbarumba Margaret River plenty of consumerHills Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay appeal. Nice aromatic,2009 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH peachy aromas andAttractive Burgundian Attractive creamy/ Nice drink - subtle and Big, broad, oaky style interesting perfumedstyle with lovely peachy toasty oak dominates well made with a hint of chardonnay with flavours. $19fruit, quality oak and the nose and gives of oak on the citrus/ generosity of varietal Hardys HRBzesty acidity. Nice toasty lovely depth to the very pear nose and a long, fruit, appropriate amount D648 Chardonnaycharacters developing flavoursome aged fruit rich, flavoursome palate of oak and lovely 2009 HHH1/2on the nose and nicely palate. Well-matched with excellent balance cleansing acidity. $35 Well-integrated woodyaged flavours. $25.99 crisp acidity. $40 between oak, fruit and nose and tight palate acid. $35 with nicely aged, elegant Houghton Margaret flavours and zesty acid River Chardonnay backbone. $32.99 2010 HHHH Appealing style with nice smoky bacon characters on the nose and good depth of rich fruity/nutty flavours with a clean and elegant finish. $17.99 1630 Spencer Road Narrikup, Western Australia 6326 +61 8 9857 6066 [email protected] www.prv.com.au70 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingSirromet Le Sauvage Wirra Wirra The 12th Laurance ofThe Wild Granite Man Adelaide Hills Margaret River RoséBelt Chardonnay Chardonnay 2010 HHHH2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH Bright pink wine withNicely aged wine with Aged toasty/honeyed an elegant, spicy plumsmoky lime and melon aromas - quite funky - bouquet and nicelyaromas and lovely and a lovely complex, balanced, clean, fresh,balance of fruit, acid and aged palate. $31.50 dry palate high in acidwood on the palate. $55 and with an astringentBerton Vineyard Botham Merrill finish. $25Foundstone South Willis McLaren Vale Patrick ofEastern Australia Chardonnay Coonawarra ToccasUnoaked Chardonnay 2008 HHH Oaks Cabernet Rosé2010 HHH Complexity of honeyed 2010 HHHFull of stewed melon melon and oak aromas, Fragrant aromas ofaromas and a mouthful with similar flavours blackcurrants, withof melon pulp and citric balanced by nice similar characters on theflavours with a clean acidity. $22 long, lean palate. $14finish. $9.99Spring Vale Aldi Stores ROSE Aldi Stores SouthFreycinet Coast Rustling Pines Point Estate SouthTasmania South Australia 14 TASTED Eastern AustraliaChardonnay Chardonnay 3 AWARDED Rosé 2010 HHH2010 HHH 2009 HHH Nice candied floralLovely combination Lots of toasty oak “Vibrancy, elegance and notes to the noseof citrussy fruits and complexity to the nose, drinkability were the and soft, candied redcreamy oak complexity. and big mouthful of soft, things lacking here,” said fruit flavours withShowing early unctuous fruit. At its one judge. There were too appropriate acid. $4.99development. $22 peak. $9.99 many concocted wines which either showed forward development or green, stalky fruit.wine crazy — we nose best — MOET BRUT IMPERIAL 750ml $4499 In any mixed dozen of wines. 3 Bottle limit per customer. We reserve the right to limit sales. No trade supplied. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 71

NEW RELEASESPINOT NOIR Cooks Lot Mudgee Baileys of Warburn Estate Coates Clare Valley Orange Pinot Noir Glenrowan 1164 Limited Release Sangiovese12 TASTED 2009 HHH Rutherglen Durif New South Wales 2009 HHH1/25 AWARDED Unctuous style with 2009 HHHH Montepulciano Smells of spicy nicely integrated oak, Big, tannic monster 2009 HHH1/2 maraschino cherriesAnother struggle with fruit, acid and drying, - “Not for wimps!” Cherry conserve and some oak. Similarthis difficult variety. savoury tannins. $19.99 Interesting perfumed nose with a spicy lift. characters on a palateSome good quaffers but, fruit and fragrant oak Interesting palate - lovely with a backbone ofas one judge said, “All Longwood Kuitpo with dense, chewy stewed berry fruits tannin and acid. $30the ducks have to be Forest Pinot Noir palate. Put this one with mouth-puckering Sirromet Le Sauvagelined up in a row for this 2009 HHH away for later. $25.99 tannins. $17 The Wild Granitevariety to work.” Spicy/peppery bouquet Belebula Limited Burnbrae Belt Nebbiolo and flavoursome palate Release Hunter Mudgee Sangiovese 2009 HHH1/2Destinations with lots of berry fruit Valley Tempranillo 2009 HHH1/2 “Excellent attempt,”Adelaide Hills Pinot and drying tannins. $25 2009 HHHH Raspberry aromas said one judge.Noir 2010 HHHH Plump berry aromas with a hint of licorice, Interesting aromasYouthful red berry OTHER RED with perfumed oak. followed by a fresh and hinting of orange peelaromas and rich, VARIETALS Firm, austere palate lively cherry palate with and a simple, tannicmouthfilling, lively & BLENDS with clean berry savoury tannins. $14 palate. Needs food. $55licorice and plum flavours, crisp acidity Karanto Langhorneflavours with firm 19 TASTED and astringent tannins. Creek Aglianicotannins in support and 13 AWARDED Ageing potential. $28 2008 HHH1/2an astringent finish. $16 Coates Langhorne Savoury and earthy on An amazing range of Creek Touriga the nose and fleshyCaledonia Australis red varietals here from Nacional 2009 HHHH in the mouth, with anReserve Leongatha regions around Australia. Abundant rich, ripe red appealing complexity ofGippsland Pinot It certainly augurs for fruit aromas and some savoury flavours withNoir 2009 HHH1/2 some exciting diversity very nice ripe, luscious soft tannins. $25Soft, elegant wine with in the future. fruit flavours with well- Koppamurraa ‘moody’ integration of handled oak and svelte McLaren Valeberry fruit and oak aromas Baileys of tannins. $30 Mourvedreand some nice strawberry- Glenrowan 2009 HHHlike flavours. $47.95 Rutherglen Petite Dark, brooding wine Sirah 2009 HHHH with powerful chocolatySpring Vale Smells of blackberry oak and lively dark fruitsFreycinet Coast juice with underlying with a hint of anise. $22Tasmania Pinot Noir oaky notes and some2010 HHH spices. The big, tannicLifted spicy/peppery/ palate is thick withstrawberry bouquet and lovely fleshy varietalsoft palate with pleasant flavours. $25.99varietal flavours. $22 Premium Hunter Valley Wines Showcasing fine wines from Australia’s oldest wine producing region Shiraz Semillon Chardonnay Verdelho W www.threeponds.com.au E [email protected] T +61 438 683 973 F +61 268 424 51372 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingElderton Barossa Yelland & Papps McGuigan Burk Salter Berton VineyardZinfandel 2009 HHH Delight Barossa The Shortlist Moorunde Foundstone SouthSpicy prune nose and Valley Grenache GSM Barossa Valley Reserve Merlot Eastern Australiainteresting sweet/sour Shiraz 2009 HHHH Grenache Shiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 Merlot 2009 HHHHpalate with cherry/ Smells of prunes and Mourvedre Deep red wine with earthy Rich and very developedraspberry flavours. Has chocolate. Compact 2008 HHH1/2 aromas, hints of quality for its age, with aromaspotential. $27 palate with some licorice Good GSM style with oak and varietal fruits. of raisins, malt and and hints of malty oak. aromas of Christmas Palate has lovely forest chocolate. Licorice andGlenwillow Uncomplicated but very cake and a well- fruit flavours wrapped in earthy characters onBendigo Barbera flavoursome wine. $19.95 structured palate of some nice wood. Has the palate. Nice oakD’Yandoit 2009 HHH La Curio The Nubile soft red fruits and firm complexity and warmth. balance. $9.99Christmas cake/dried McLaren Vale tannins. 3-5 $25.99fruit nose with funky Grenache Shiraz 5+ $25 Patritti Blewittcomplexity. Similar 2009 HHHH Springs Estatethings happening on the Complexity of potpourri, Patritti Marion McLaren Vale Merlotpalate. $30 lavender and malty Adelaide Vineyard 2009 HHH1/2 aromas. Nice depth of rich Grenache Shiraz Lovely inkySaddler’s Creek blackberry jam flavours 2008 HHH concentration to a noseWines Bluegrass tempered by appropriate Complex food wine with minty complexity.The Blend 2008 HHH oak and acid. $21 with a mature, savoury Excellent dry red palateSmells of rhubarb with Richard Hamilton nose and good fruit loaded with quality oak.a slight malty note and Burton’s Vineyard Old persistence on a Tannic finish. $12has a simple dry red Bush Vine McLaren developing palate. $16palate. $32 Vale Grenache 2009 HHHH Grant Burge Richard HamiltonGRENACHE Funky red fruit bouquet The Holy Trinity Lot 148 McLaren& BLENDS with a hint of Turkish Barossa Grenache Vale Merlot delight, and a youthful, Shiraz Mourvedre 2009 HHH1/28 TASTED chewy palate with 2007 HHH Elegant, aged style with7 AWARDED good depth of juicy fruit Nose showing age, compact fruit cake nose flavours. Very promising and a well-aged, soft, followed by a long, ripeThese are Barossa and - needs time. $39.95 rounded, red fruit palate palate with a hint ofMcLaren Vale gems La Curio Reserve - very flavoursome. $42 varietal greenness. $18.50from old vineyards that McLaren Valeluckily weren’t removed Bush Vine Grenache MERLOT Harrington Glenduring the government 2009 HHH1/2 Estate Granite Beltvine pull scheme. Nicely developing 8 TASTED Merlot 2009 HHH perfumed bouquet and Lovely red berry fruits good depth of savoury 7 AWARDED McGuigan with shade of green, flavours with nice tannins and acidity. This flight shows Bin Series No 3000 and with fragrant oak to that merlot can stand Limestone Coast balance. 3-5 $15 3-5 $27 alone, offering its own Merlot 2009 HHHH unique character. Vibrant varietal fruit nose with a good spicy lift. Soft, fine, varietal palate layered with fine drying tannins. Very easy drinking. 3-5 $12.99SIMON HACKETTFourth generation, Barossa Valley born, TRADE ENQUIRIES:Winemaker Simon Hackett established his winery S.A. Chace Agencies 08 8363 7881 [email protected] a fertile hill overlooking McLaren Vale over VIC Working Wine 0407 053 663 [email protected] years ago. Simon Hackett produces a stunning NSW Estate Wine Distributors [email protected] of wines including the very popular limited QLD Estate Wine Distributors 0405 106 207 [email protected] Anthony's Reserve Shiraz and Foggo UK & Europe - ABS Wine Agencies [email protected] Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Drop into Hong Kong - Vins de France Corp (ABS Asia Ltd) [email protected] cellar door for a tasting and take in the Simon Hackett Wines, Budgens Road, McLaren Valestunning panoramic views. (08) 8323 7712 [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 73

NEW RELEASESBurk Salter South Thompson EstateAustralia Merlot Andrea Reserve2009 HHH Margaret RiverWell-made wine Cabernet Merlotwith sweet stewed 2007 HHHfruit showing earthy Smells toasty and leafycharacters and chocolaty and jammy. Much theoak. 3-5 $16 same on a palate with drying tannins. $40CABERNETBLENDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON16 TASTED 200911 AWARDED 16 TASTEDSolid group of blends Aldi Stores 14 AWARDED Flametree Embers Grant Burge Cameronwithout any great Huntingdale Central Margaret River Vale Barossadistinction but also Victoria Cabernet Very solid group of Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignonwithout any major Merlot 2009 HHH wines with a few more 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2faults. Drinkers can Light, elegant wine highlights. These wines Very varietal nose - lots of Lovely depth ofbe confident in their with youthful stone-fruit ranged from the cool- leafy, blackcurrant, green sweet varietal fruitchoices here. aromas and intense climate, minty styles to bean aromas. Soft and and spicy oak that is plum flavours. $9.99 the richer, riper wines. warm in the mouth, with seamlessly integratedSinclair Jeremy Wara Manta blackcurrant flavours and and supported by someSimon South West Cabernet Merlot long, savoury tannins. $18 drying tannins. $26.50Australia Cabernet 2008 HHH Aldi StoresShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Chocolaty/cola-like Glenwillow Bendigo The Pond CabernetSpicy, leafy and lifted aromas, with similar Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignonbouquet with a tight characters on the 2009 HHHH 2009 HHHblackcurrant/herbal palate well-balanced palate. Chocolaty nose with a Fresh, lively andand some balancing pleasant minty edge, youthful, with liftedresidual sugar. $20 3-5 $15.95 followed by a big, soft, red berry aromas and Nardone Baker velvety palate with astringent stone-fruitCoates Cabernet South Australia chocolaty/blackberry flavours. $6.99Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Merlot flavours. VeryMalbec 2009 HHH 2008 HHH drinkable. $25Powerful, tarry, licorice Great integration of dark,nose and long, complex ripe berry fruits, strongplum palate with a bit acid and soft, savouryof ‘funk’. $30 tannins. $16.95 Parri Estate PhillipsSirromet Le Sauvage Family Selection Quilty Running Harrington GlenThe Wild Granite McLaren Vale Estate Granite BeltBelt Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon2009 HHH 2008 HHH 2009 HHH1/2Very peppery nose Dense, oaky nose with Developed, savourywith good background fragrant, minty lift. Nice aromas and slightlyof varietal fruit, and a palate structure and soft sweet, alcoholicdifferent and interesting cabernet flavours. $45 palate with flavourspalate. $55 Chalice Bridge reminiscent of coffee The Estate Margaret essence. $20Brown Hill River Cabernet Stitch Mudgee Merlot 2007 HHH Cabernet SauvignonPerseverence Herbal/leafy bouquet 2009 HHHHHMargaret River and austere fruitCabernet Merlot palate with good oak Dense crimson wine Baileys of Glenrowan integration and powerful - almost black - with a2008 HHH tannins. $19.95 massive amount of ripe Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2Attractive development stone-fruit characters Huge purple wineon the spicy/leafy nose.Dense red flavours on a well matched by well- with elegant cassis handled, classy oaksoft palate. 3-5 $50 which adds complexity. varietal fruit that’s well integrated with the Mouth-puckering chewy oak. Will ageSinclair Jezebel tannins. 5+ $28South West well. 5+ $25.99Australia CabernetMerlot 2009 HHHLeafy fruit and carameloak on the nose andgood depth of varietalfruit flavours. $2074 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Rosedale Wines Cat Amongst the Pigeons Cat Walk Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Simple, vibrant wine with huge, intense concentration of oak, fruit, spices and plums. $16 Reillys Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Seamless integration of spicy oak and licorice/ cassis fruit with drying tannins. $18Aldi Stores Three Sinclair GiovanniNotes Adelaide Hills South West AustraliaCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon2009 HHH 2009 HHHJuicy cassis nose with Oaky/capsicum bouquetoaky overtones. More and sweet blackcurrantoak on a palate layered fruit flavours with goodwith stone-fruits. $9.99 acid backbone. $20 Burk Salter Moorunde Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Huge, ripe, tarry fruit nose, with similar characters carrying through to the palate. $25 Rosabrook Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 HHH Seamlessly smooth wine with sweet Ribena fruit and chewy oak tannins. 5+ $50 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008 & OLDER 18 TASTED 12 AWARDEDTerramore Lots of dense fruitCoonawarra characters from theCabernet Sauvignon hot ‘08 vintage yet,2009 HHH despite that, a numberLeafy blackcurrant nose were recommended,with marzipan touch albeit more as good dry red styles.and massive, tannicpalate with solid dry redflavours. 3-5 $19 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 75

NEW RELEASESReillys Dry Land Botham Merrill Kimbarra Great SHIRAZ Wyndham EstateClare Valley Willis McLaren Western Cabernet BLENDS George WyndhamCabernet Sauvignon Vale Coonawarra Sauvignon 2008 HHH Barossa Shiraz2005 HHHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Chocolate and plums 15 TASTED TempranilloMassive, tannic monster 2006 HHHH on the nose with a hint 8 AWARDED 2009 HHHwith a fabulous dense Brick-red wine with of crushed ants. Same Mid-weight sweet berryblack/red colour. Loads spicy, developed for the big, weighty Another solid group of fruit characters seamlesslyof rich, sweet and spicy bouquet and elegant palate. $26 big-flavoured wines to integrated with the oakfruit with heaps of oak fruit palate nicely Brown Hill Ivanhoe drink now or to put away. tannins. $21.59and warming alcohol. integrated with an Reserve Margaret“A legend,” declared appropriate level and River Cabernet Chambers Rosewood Burnbrae Mudgeeone judge. 5+ $29 quality of oak. $27.50 Sauvignon 2008 HHH Vineyards Anton Shiraz Viognier Hugo McLaren Vale Dense, savoury aromas Ruch Rutherglen 2009 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon with medicinal notes and Shiraz Mondeuse Oaky nose with cigar 2008 HHH1/2 sweet fruit flavours with 2006 HHHH box-like aromas and Seamless integration toasty development. $30 Green, stalky fruit good integration of plum of sweet black fruits, Windance Reserve bouquet with lots of fruit and cedary oak cola-like oak and chewy Margaret River chocolaty oak and a rich, flavours. $25 tannins. Palate has a Cabernet Sauvignon spicy/chocolate palate long, lingering finish. $22 2008 HHH with excellent flavour Patrick of McGuigan Real blockbuster, with depth and some residual Coonawarra Toccas The Shortlist solid, tarry varietal fruit sweetness. $18 Game Shiraz Coonawarra seamlessly integrated Cabernet Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon with the oak. $40 Rosedale Wines 2008 HHH 2008 HHH1/2 Elderton Ashmead Cat Amongst the Lovely mocha/chocolate Lifted, leafy aromas with Barossa Cabernet Pigeons Fat Cat aromas and soft, a hint of earthiness and Sauvignon 2008 HHH Barossa Valley sweet fruit flavours an oak-driven palate Hints of crushed ant Shiraz Cabernet with developed tertiary with powerful dry red characters on the nose, 2009 HHH1/2 characters. $14 flavours. $25.99 which are echoed on the Deep purple wine with Saddler’s Creek chewy palate. $90 nicely retained plum fruit SHIRAZ 2009 Wines Bluegrass elements sitting on top Langhorne Creek of lovely spicy oak 29 TASTED Cabernet Sauvignon characters. $16 26 AWARDED 2008 HHH1/2 Attractive leafy, Rosedale Wines Very consistent, solid blackcurrant aromas Cat Amongst the class “with a degree edged with toasty/spicy Pigeons Alley Cat of sameness”, thought notes and followed by a Barossa Valley one judge. However, light, leafy, cool-climate Shiraz Grenache that does offer some palate. $32 2009 HHH1/2 comfort when choosing Thompson Estate Plum jam nose with a 2009 shiraz wines. Margaret River leathery nuance and nice “Winemakers are going Cabernet Sauvignon balance between lively for lower yields and 2007 HHH1/2 stone-fruit flavours and picking the best fruit, Stronger old oak with chewy oak. $16 which is a good thing,” tarry fruit aromas which said another. follow through to the Currency CreekSaracen Estates palate, creating lovely Estate Ostrich HillMargaret River lingering flavours. $40 Fleurieu PeninsulaCabernet Sauvignon Koppamurra Shiraz Viognier2008 HHHH Barrel Selection 2009 HHH1/2Lovely leafy and Wrattonbully More elegant style withblackcurrant-like - varietal Cabernet Sauvignon sweet fruit/bacony oakfruit obvious on both nose 2008 HHH nose and nice depthand palate. Lovely balance Strong, oaky aromas of varietal fruit/oakfrom the spicy oak. $40 with some solid fruit flavours. $17 underneath; much the same happening on the Karra Yerta Wines palate. $25 Barossa Ranges Shiraz Cabernet 2006 HHH1/2 Chocolaty bouquet with a spicy lift and a palate with well-retained, ripe fruit flavours and a strong acid backbone. $2576 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingTerramore Pepperwood EstateCoonawarra Shiraz Jazz Capel Western2009 HHHHH Australia ShirazExcellent long, complex 2009 HHHHand flavoursome wine Dense black fruit aromaswith an abundance of mingle with toasty oakdark berry shiraz fruit, and show minty notes.spicy oak and layered Palate full of rich plumwith rich licorice-like flavours with a hint ofcharacters. Woody on spice and some dryingthe finish. $19 tannins. $15Wirra Wirra CatapultMcLaren Vale Shiraz2009 HHHH1/2Lifted black fruit aromascomplemented by lovelyoak. Palate rich andcomplex and full of darkfruits underscored withsoy and earthy elementsand powerful tannins. $22Taylors Clare ValleyShiraz 2009 HHHHFull, fleshy stylethat’s long, balancedand complex, withfragrant, cool-climatefruit and lovely oakynotes and a warmingalcohol finish. $18Baileys of Rosedale WinesGlenrowan Shiraz Cat Amongst the2009 HHHH Pigeons Nine LivesMingling of violets, Barossa Valleyblueberries and Shiraz 2009 HHHHlavender on the nose Darkly brooding fruitwith some subtle oaky on the nose, with agednotes. Big, full-bodied characters developing.palate with solid dry red Leaner-style palateflavours. Needs time. with nice cranberry fruit flavours, good oak and 5+ $25.99 crisp acidity. $16 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 77

NEW RELEASESWirra Wirra Yarrawood Tall Berton Vineyard Harrington Glen Wyndham EstateWoodhenge Tales Yarra Valley Foundstone South Estate Granite Belt George WyndhamMcLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Eastern Australia Shiraz 2009 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/22009 HHHH Chocolaty characters on Shiraz 2009 HHH Bright crimson wine Lots of toasty oak onDeep crimson wine the nose and a pretty and Funky nose - smell of with an inky nose and the nose sitting on topwith a subdued, inky well-balanced palate full smallgoods - followed simple, tannic palate full of floral-like fruit. Lovelynose and lovely violet of forest fruit, with oak by a chewy, savoury of dark red fruit. $20 oak on the palate - a tadnotes. Prunes and soy adding complexity. $20.50 palate. $9.99 assertive for now - withcharacters on the palate, Burk Salter South Richard Hamilton lush, soft fruit flavourswith ‘squeaky’ tannins. Glenwillow Bendigo Australia Shiraz Centurion 117 Year and tannins. $21.59Needs more time. $30 Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH Old Vine McLaren Rowley EstateLa Curio Reserve Earthy/mushroomy Lovely integration of soft Vale Shiraz Barbara Keilor ShirazMcLaren Vale Shiraz aromas and a rich, dark nectarine fruit and spicy 2009 HHH 2002 HHHH1/22009 HHHH concentration of oak and oak, with leathery notes Rich, dense style. Great bouquet of agedNice primary fruit fruit flavours with long, adding complexity. $16 Perfumed oak evident on dark fruits - still showingwith shades of plums, chewy tannins. $25 the nose and good dry some freshness.prunes and lavender and Aldi Stores red fruit flavours. $59.95 Amazing old sweet,balanced with toasty Hart of the Barossa St Amber South fruit cake flavours withoak and good tannin Brave & Faithful Eastern Australia Nintingbool Ballarat balancing tannin/acidstructure. $31 Organic Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHH spine. Needs decanting.Rosedale Wines 2009 HHH1/2 Unctuous ripe fruit Pretty forest fruit Holding up well. $26Chook Shed Barossa Spices, malt and a bit aromas with youthful characters wellShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 of dark chocolate on berry flavours and soft supported by fragrantSweet, lifted plum/ the nose and shades of tannins. $6.99 toasty oak. $22prune aromas and portiness on a palate with Ashwood Estateinky concentration of good flavour length. $25 Stable Hill Quilty Blackprune-like flavours Adelaide Hills Shiraz Thimble Mudgeewith excellent lingering Rosabrook 2009 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHHpersistence. $12 Margaret River Intense, aromatic plum Big, oak-driven wine.McGuigan Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 bouquet and lovely Vanilla and spices on theBin Series No 2000 Subdued, earthy aromas fresh, lively plum nose and dark fruits onLimestone Coast with hints of licorice and flavours with good use the palate. $28Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 stone-fruits, and lovely of oak. $18Smells of fruit cake with balance of stone-fruit/ Pepperwood Estate Baileys offunky elements. Elegant oak flavours. A keeper. Premium Capel Glenrowanred and black fruit palate Western Australia 1920’s Block Shirazhas good acid/tannin 5+ $50 Shiraz 2009 HHH 2009 HHHbackbone. $12.99 Complex nose with Inky concentration ofSinclair Ricardo Saddler’s Creek smoky/herbal nuances. solid blueberry fruit andSouth West Wines Single Leathery palate light, toasty oak with firmAustralia Shiraz Vineyard Hunter with simple dry red tannic structure. $352009 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 flavours. $19Full, firm and fleshy Dark red fruit bouquet SHIRAZdeep crimson wine with smoky tobacco 2008 & OLDERsmelling of smallgoods. notes. Elegant palate withFlavoursome palate good depth of bright, 33 TASTED- good acid/tannin fleshy fruit flavours. $50 22 AWARDEDbalance. $20 Another strong STAR RATINGS  shiraz class with quality, reliability andThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of consistency. Good winesexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. here across all vintages.All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryprofessionals and are compared in peer Yelland & Pappsclasses by three judges. Divine BarossaCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Valley Shiraza major mail-order business. 2008 HHHH1/2CD Cellar door price. Interesting dark,CDO Cellar door only. brooding, inky aromasSO Sold out. with Christmas cake-$N/A Price not available at time of printing. like fruit notes. Lovely oak background on the Contact information pg 160. palate with great depth of ripe, sweet fruit RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). flavours. $6578 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingHardys HRB Shiraz2007 HHHH1/2Seamless integration ofspicy fruit and malty oakaromas with leathery agedeveloping. Nicely aged,fleshy palate with vibrantforest fruit flavours andquality oak. $39.99Maxwell EllenStreet McLaren ValeShiraz 2008 HHHHChocolaty bouquet witha touch of fruit cake-likecharacters. Assertive,tannic palate brimmingover with anise, licoriceand prune flavours. $32Botham Merrill Kimbarra WinesWillis McLaren Vale Great WesternShiraz 2006 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2Earthy fruit well Assertive, tannic styleintegrated with vanillin with lifted, spicy stone-oak. Well-balanced, soft, fruit aromas and plentyred fruit palate still nicely of sweet nectarinefresh, with lovely velvety flavours. $29tannins. $27.50Rowley EstateTango Keilor Shiraz2005 HHHHSmells earthy - like aforest floor - with a hintof rhubarb. Nice flavourconcentration with lotsof earthy/mushroomcharacters and sveltetannins. $20Rowley EstateTango Keilor Shiraz2004 HHHHDeveloped earthy/leatherywine. Nice barnyardycharacters on the noseand soft red fruit palatesupported by soft tanninsand cedary oak. $22Sidewood Peos Estate FourAdelaide Hills Syrah Aces Manjimup2008 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2007 HHH1/2Spicy red cherry nose and Elegant, leaner style withquite a toasty/oaky palate excellent integration ofbut has a good weight of aged fruit and oak, lovelyripe black varietal fruits to ripe tannins and firmmatch. $24.50 acid. $35McGuiganThe ShortlistBarossa ValleyShiraz 2008 HHH1/2Violet, blueberry and spicyoak aromas and greatdepth of zesty varietalfruit flavours with nice oakcharacters. $25.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 79

NEW RELEASESwas now was now Koppamurra Joanna Forester Estate Wrattonbully Shiraz Margaret River$260 $150 $440 $250 2008 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2008 HHH Stewed prune aromas Ethereal cool-climatewas now was now mingle with chocolate nose smelling of characters. Palate cherries and herbs.$320$180 $500$270 rich with complex Similar palate with a characters and assertive savoury edge. $20was now was now tannins. $37.50 Jarrah Ridge Wines Sandalford Estate Reserve Chittering$276$150 $320$180 Reserve Margaret Perth Hills Shiraz River Shiraz 2008 HHH 2007 HHH1/2 Earthy/forest floor Complex, fleshy bouquet with a touch of wine with lovely dark tar, which is echoed on fruit showing nice the complex palate. $28 development and Plantagenet Shiraz underpinned by a crisp 2008 HHH acid backbone. $33.95 Perfumed fruit aromas Poonawatta Estate and a rich black fruit The 1880 Eden palate with a hint of Valley Shiraz rhubarb and some 2007 HHH1/2 chewy tannins. $40 Dark jubey fruits mingle Step Road with subtle, fragrant Langhorne Creek oak and are supported Shiraz 2007 HHH by drying tannins and Inky nose developing warming alcohol. $80 smoky characters and a Coates Consonance tannic palate with tarry Syrah 2008 HHH fruit persistence. $21.90 Spicy red fruit aromas Rowley Estate with leathery notes. Barbara Keilor Simple, fleshy palate Shiraz 2001 HHH has dark fruit and good Beautifully balanced old oak. $20 fruit and oak aromas with great old pepper and spice flavours. $30 SWEET WHITE 3 TASTED 2 AWARDED A small flight with one stand-out wine. Whitebox Heathcote Yarran Wines Shiraz 2008 HHH Leopardwood Aromas of fruit cake Reserve Botrytis and blackberry jam, and Chenin Blanc 2009 quite a big, sweet, porty (375ml) HHHHH palate. $19.50 Glorious golden wine with solid toffee/lychee botrytis bouquet and an excellent depth of sweet luscious fruit with powerful acidity ensuring a long life ahead. $18 Patritti Moscato 2010 HHH Lovely lychee/lolly bouquet and nice spritzig character on the semi- sweet palate. $15.5080 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

www.vinitaly.com/Exhibitorsarea/Foreigndelegates/

TOP 40Balgownie Premium Burk Salter South Beresford Highwood Serafino Bellissimo Winter Creek EdenCuvee Rosé NV Australia Sparkling McLaren Vale Adelaide Hills Pinot Valley Riesling 2010Attractive floral/violet- Shiraz 2009 Pinot Grigio 2010 Grigio 2010 Greenish nose - morelike aromas followed Smells of spices and Estery, citrus nose and Light floral/honeydew herbal and leafy. Veryby a very sweet berry prunes with leathery crisp, citrussy fruit palate melon bouquet and tight palate vergingfruit palate. $19 notes and has sweet, with slight oily texture pleasant, citrus- on austere - for now mouthfilling blackberry and good acidity. $15.99 flavoured palate with - with fresh lime juice flavours with a hint of acidic finish. $18 flavours and high level spicy oak. $15 of acid. Plenty of life ahead. 5+ $18THE TOP 40 BEST BUYS LISTING TO QUALIFYis updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are 1 Wines must have first been recommended instill available - remain in the next issue’s Top 40 Best Buys group. Others will sell Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings.out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. Price is a major factor in selection. Style tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg,The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Top 40 Best Buys listing comprises the best wines shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such ascurrently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ shiraz/cabernet wines.from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Top 40Best Buys listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that 2 Wines from designated regional tastings arewould otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. eligible provided they are widely available.HOW IT WORKS 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in many liquor stores.In each issue Winestate’s publisher Peter Simic selects the highest-rated winesat specific price points. All wines have previously been judged for Winestate by 4 No cellar door-only wines are eligible.panels of expert judges.82 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Rockridge Clare Anvers Brabo South Patrick of Reillys Wines Aldi Stores KaioraValley Watervale Australia Sauvignon Coonawarra Mother Ryder Adelaide Bay MarlboroughRiesling 2010 Blanc Semillon 2010 of Pearl Sauvignon Hills Sauvignon SauvignonFull-flavoured, fragrant Easy drinker with Blanc 2010 Blanc 2010 Blanc 2010wine with smoky bacon pleasant herbaceousness Steely, almost riesling- Candied nose with Lean and tight andaromas and nice aged and crisp acidity. Serve like style with its bath a perfumed, floral a good example oflemon flavours. Drink icy cold. $15 salts, lemons and limes lift and light-bodied, a herbal style - verynow. $13 and crisp acidity to well-balanced, citrus varietal. Good flavour balance the touch of palate. $14 and texture - some residual sugar. $18.99 residual sugar. $9.99OTHER WHITE WINES All Hallow’s Eve Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 best buys Smoky complexity on the nose, with big fruityAmadio Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio 2010 aromas and herbal/citrus notes. Good palate. Acid- 20less thanLifted, perfumed, floral nose and palate, with lovely based flavours showing a citrus overtone with wellcrispness and spicy/floral flavours. $18 tempered residual sugar. $18.99 $Yalumba Y Series South Australia Pinot Grigio 2010 Braided River Lighter in Alcohol MarlboroughSmells appley with a hint of spice. Apples on the Sauvignon Blanc 2010palate, freshness on the finish. $12.95 Soft green aromas of herbs and limes and good citrus-like varietal flavours with slight residualSmokin’ Gun Margaret River Semillon sweetness and tangy finish. $19Sauvignon Blanc 2010Herbaceous aromas with sweaty notes and crisp Taylors Clare Valley Gewurztraminer 2010lemon flavours balanced by firm acidity. Tropical Lovely floral/musky nose and very dry, aperitif-stylenotes on the finish. $17.50 palate with crisp melon flavours. $18 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 83

TOP 40Preveli De Bortoli Bimbadgen Ridge Queens Pinch ShinglebackMargaret River Sacred Hill Chardonnay 2008 Vineyard Mudgee McLaren ValeSemillon Sauvignon Semillon Sauvignon Lifted aromas of citrus Chardonnay 2010 Chardonnay 2010Blanc 2010 Blanc 2010 blossom and fresh Fine, elegant style Excellent example of theNice lean, aperitif style Fresh, zesty wine - melons, and a full-bodied, with a flinty peach nose variety, with its nutty/with smoky accents simple but with good creamy palate. $15 and long, balanced figgy/nougat nose andon the nose and good consumer appeal. Nice flavours. $15 layers of roasted nuts andcomplexity of herbal balance of tropical/citrus grapefruit flavours. $18.95flavours with a clean fruit. $7.50acid finish. $18.95TOP 40 Bethany Steinbruch Barossa Riesling 2009 Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Eden Valley Riesling 2010 Toasty kero nose and very sweet, lively palate full of flavour with a high level of acidity. $14 Quite complex minerally aromas with some wet Hugo McLaren Vale Sauvignon Blanc 2010 limestone elements. Plenty happening on the very Light nettle nose with tropical notes and loads of developing passionfruit flavours. $16 flavoursome palate. 3-5 $15 Peter Lehmann Art Series Eden Valley Dry Riesling 2009 Bethany Barossa Semillon 2009 Very youthful citrus/floral bouquet, and well-structured Complex, toasty semillon with big, rich, smoky/ and nicely balanced palate with abundant lovely lemony honeyed aromas and crisp, dry, sour lemon flavours. varietal fruit flavours with some floral elements. $18 Very youthful, zesty wine. $18 Beach Head by Credaro Margaret River Chardonnay 2010 Subtle peach and nectarine bouquet with a perfumed lift, and lots of fruit sweetness balanced by mouth-watering acidity. $1684 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Wicks Estate Mt Monster Ashwood Stable Jip Jip Rocks Yelland & PappsAdelaide Hills Limestone Coast Hill Adelaide Hills Padthaway Unoaked Delight BarossaChardonnay 2010 Chardonnay 2010 Chardonnay 2010 Chardonnay 2010 Valley GrenachePungent, tropical Austere green apple No mistaking this is a Clean, refreshing wine Shiraz 2009nose and very crisp bouquet and lean, fresh chardonnay, with its with lots of grapefruit, Smells of prunes andand refreshing green apricot palate. $13.95 lovely peachy/nectarine pineapple and guava chocolate. Compactpassionfruit palate. $18 fruit and subtle oak. $18 characters. $17.95 palate with some licorice and hints of malty oak. Uncomplicated but very flavoursome wine. $19.95Bunnamagoo Estate Mount Lawson Mudgee Nepenthe Altitude Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2010 best buysChardonnay 2009 Simple, lifted floral/citrus aromas and lovelyGood food wine with nice peach and subtle oak refreshing, high-acid palate. Great drink. $19.90 20less thansweetness on the nose, and a palate that has poiseand balance. $13.99 Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Eden Valley Chardonnay 2009 $ Lovely fresh chardonnay aromas of nectarines andJames Oatley Tic Tok Mudgee Pemberton nougat, and a creamy palate with loads of sweet,Chardonnay 2008 fleshy fruit flavours. Has texture and balance. $15Very lively wine with a flinty/citrus nose and well-balanced, medium-weight palate with a nice line OTHER RED WINESof acid. $17.99 Orlando Gramps Barossa Valley Grenache 2009McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Chardonnay 2008 Earthy characters on the very ripe, fruity nose, andSubtle, toasty, buttery nose and quite a sweet, Fruit slightly syrupy, prune-like flavours. Excellent varietalTingle-like palate. $11.99 example. $16.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 85

TOP 40Patritti Marion Aldi Stores Cimicky Trumps Rosedale Wines Ashwood EstateVineyard Adelaide Three Notes Adelaide Barossa Valley Cat Amongst the Stable Hill AdelaideGrenache Hills Cabernet Shiraz 2008 Pigeons Alley Cat Hills Shiraz 2009Shiraz 2008 Sauvignon 2009 Big, solid wine, almost Barossa Valley Shiraz Intense, aromatic plumComplex food wine Juicy cassis nose with black in colour with a Grenache 2009 bouquet and lovelywith a mature, savoury oaky overtones. More crimson edge. Nose has Plum jam nose with a fresh, lively plumnose and good fruit oak on a palate layered a huge concentration of leathery nuance and nice flavours with good usepersistence on a with stone-fruits. $9.99 black olive/bramble-like balance between lively of oak. $18developing palate. $16 fruit. Lovely rich, ripe stone-fruit flavours and fruit palate with pencil chewy oak. $16 shaving oak and fine tannins. $18TOP 40 Chalice Bridge The Estate Margaret River Cabernet Currency Creek Estate Ostrich Hill Fleurieu Merlot 2007 Peninsula Shiraz Viognier 2009 Herbal/leafy bouquet and austere fruit palate with More elegant style with sweet fruit/bacony oak nose good oak integration and powerful tannins. $19.95 and nice depth of varietal fruit/oak flavours. $17 Peter Lehmann Art Series Barossa Cabernet Patrick of Coonawarra Toccas Game Shiraz Sauvignon 2008 Cabernet Merlot 2008 Genuine varietal characters on the nose; herbal Lovely mocha/chocolate aromas and soft, sweet fruit and minty with some blackberry and olive elements. flavours with developed tertiary characters. $14 Palate offers a mouthful of minty/berry flavours. $18 Taylors Clare Valley Shiraz 2009 Kalleske Clarry’s Barossa Valley Shiraz Grenache Full, fleshy style that’s long, balanced and complex, Mataro 2010 with fragrant, cool-climate fruit and lovely oaky notes Vibrant purple wine with lifted floral/cassis aromas and a warming alcohol finish. $18 and a big, rich, layered dark fruit/tannic palate. $1886 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER





how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example, weWines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more will have a winemaker judge from that regionprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other because that person knows the local style.class being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstandingprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent High Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the 18 - 18.4 90 - 92wines blind and assign a score without HHHH Very Good Silver 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 89

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts says Graham. “Clearances were below average, just under 50 per cent, but theLANGTON’S WINE ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS dollar spend per buyer was doubled. ThatAUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (DECEMBER REPORT) said, the bidding in a lot of cases - especiallyFebruary 22-March 1 (Melbourne) Oddbins wound up 2010 on a high note, with the budget wines - was movingMarch 1-8 (Sydney) having secured a number of very classy towards the bottom end of the guides. IMarch 8-15 (Melbourne) wine cellars for its final sale of the suspect this downward pricing trend mayMarch 15-22 (Sydney) year in December. For most of 2010, continue in the first quarter of 2011.”March 22-29 (Melbourne) vendors - particularly in South AustraliaMarch 29-April 4 (Sydney) - had been reluctant to let go of their Auction highlights included the sale ofApril 4-12 (Melbourne) precious collections so the stock was two very famous and historic AustralianApril 12-19 (Sydney) extremely welcome. wines - a 1952 Penfolds Bin 4A Grange,April 19- 27 (Melbourne) which went for a hammer price ofApril 27-May 3 (Sydney) “Blame it on the election, the hangover $4510, and a 1955 Wynns Michael (with from the previous year’s economic conditions) which fetched $2050. FromSTERLING WINE gloom, interest rates or widespread the imported portfolio, an impressiveAUCTIONS & EXCHANGE news that we Australians are massively 1982 Chateau Mouton RothschildFebruary 25- March 9 oversupplied with wine - but the issue achieved $1120 and a rare 1937 Henri(consignment deadline February 21) was, vendors became scarce,” says de Villamont Morey St Denis sold for aApril 1-13 Oddbins’ auctioneer and valuer Graham hammer price of $1050.(consignment deadline March 28) Wright. “Then late November arrivedApril 29-May 11 and the taxi trucks, cars and walk-ins Overall, buyers continued their demand(consignment deadline April 25) were queued up wanting to place their for the major Penfolds products but were prized vinous possessions into the next also keen on the large selection of elderlyODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS auction - motivated mainly by the thought German sweet whites on offer, alongApril 5 (closing March 11) that, like in the retail trade, Christmas is with old and ancient Australian classics, a good time to sell.” a vast array of Australian vintage portsGRAYSONLINE from the 1970s and ’80s and a varietyDaily wine auctions (featuring a range The Oddbins lot size went from an of champagnes.of red and white wines and regional average of 2500 lots to just over 4000.and country-specific sales) “For a small and dedicated auction house, Sparkling whites from Bird in Hand that’s a big load of work - but we did it,” cleared well in December, as did CathcartLIQUID ASSET FINE WINE AUCTIONS Ridge Reserve reds, Melton’s NineOnline at www.liquidasset.co.nz: Popes blend and Greenock‘s Apricot andfortnightly from Thursday 8am to Roennfeldt Road Shiraz. While HenschkeTuesday 8pm, NZ time. Hill of Grace is going through a sullenRegister for notifications at patch at auction, Mount Edelstone andwww.liquidasset.co.nz/register Keyneton Estate premiums both cleared well. 2002 Katnook Prodigy, Kay BrothersCRACKA WINES Block 6 and 1990 Lindemans St GeorgeDaily wine auctions online at Cabernet from a museum release alsowww.crackawines.com.au produced some good bidding. Noon wines came back into favour with(All dates are subject to change, Oddbins buyers, with good sales of theirwithout notice) Eclipse blend, and strong clearances were recorded for magnums of Grange, Bin 707s, Lindeman’s Limestone Ridge blends from 1997 and the big offering of 1999 Geoff Merrill Shiraz. Seppelt vintage-dated Para and St Hallett Cup Winner vintage ports also cleared well. “A word of caution though: the mood of our buyers over the last few months has been to shy away from stock with either low levels or damage to labels, capsules and corks,” says Graham. “I suspect this will have an effect on the difference in pricing between good and not-so-good wines in 2011.” For further information visit www. oddbins.com.au.90 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

wine investment & collectingGRAYSONLINE results, with 139 lots averaging $453.10 Pack quantities of wine, magnums and(DECEMBER REPORT) and a ’61 vintage closing at a massive larger-format wines all sold superblyGraysOnline’s massive national audience $1292.60. A great spread of vintages through December. Over 470 lots wererevelled in the increase of champagne helped results, and wines from the early sold in multiple packs ideal for immediateand premium wine sales during the ’90s sold particularly well through the enjoyment - representing more than‘silly season’ - concluding the year on a Christmas season. Grange highlights $65,000 in sales. Six-packs of Wynns, Wolfhigh. Iconic drops and quality Australian included $815.35 for a 1990 and $746.35 Blass, Torbreck, Petaluma, Leo Buring andlabels were well represented during for a ’91 - while a ’96 and a ’98 bottle of Hill Grosset attracted strong bidding - whilethese sales and consumers enjoyed the of Grace both hit a cool $585.35. Demand the highlights of the magnum sales wereopportunity to secure wine to consume for Mount Edelstone and Keyneton Estate the larger-format Wynns Michael and Johnthroughout the festive period. If this was remained strong, with 83 lots of other Riddoch. A couple of three-litre Jeraboamsan indication of what 2011 has to bring, Henschke wines averaging $109.35. of Bollinger NV achieved nearly $500 eachthen consumers and collectors are in for and would have ensured a great Newa treat as the business expects its growth Penfolds is always a big winner, and Year’s Eve for two lucky bidders!spurt to continue. Bin ranges from the 1990s performed incredibly well through the festive sales. There was a great range of other interesting Not surprisingly, champagne sales were A 1996 407 sold for $159.85, while the wines purchased for both consumptionexceptionally strong over the holidays, higher-profile Bin ranges were looking and investment, including Brokenwood,with a couple of hundred lots sold at good, with a 1990 707 selling for $246.10 Lindemans, Wynns and Katnook. Collectiblepremium prices. Bollinger, Taittinger, and a ’96 707 going for $297.85. A large Hardys such as Eileen Hardy and ThomasVeuve, Moet and Louis Roederer were number of Bin 389s went under the Hardy, Grant Burge Shadrach and Meshach,all great examples of where the customer hammer, with 72 lots being traded for an Giaconda and Cullen are in great demand -paid a premium over the current retail average of $110. A bottle of Bin 90A sold with GraysOnline seeing the value soar onpricing, to reap the benefits of securing for $309.35. There was a great range of 10-to-20-year-old wines from these iconican aged bottle. A 1989 Louis Roederer Penfolds on offer, spanning more than 70 Aussie producers.Cristal sold for $401.35 and 12 lots of 2000 vintages and across a variety of labels,Dom Perignon sold at a peak of $343.85. from Magill Estate through to RWT and For more information, visit www.Interestingly, a Taittinger limited edition some early St Henris. Three bottles of graysonline.com or contact fine wineGrand Cru sold for a whopping $361.10. 1964 St Henri in optimal condition provided manager Patrick Barry on (02) 9741 9600. particular interest for consumers. The A good proportion of customers took oldest Penfolds products were a pint of All prices listed include buyer’s premium.advantage of the huge quantity of 1940 Bin S6 Grandfather Port, which soldHenschke and Penfolds on offer - resulting for $205.85, and a 1945 version, which LANGTONS FINE WINE AUCTIONSin strong sales of iconic investment wines. fetched a surprising $458.85. (FOURTH QUARTER 2010 REPORT)Grange continued to achieve terrific At the start of 2010 there was a cautious sense of increased optimism in the TURN YOUR GraysOnline sells more cases of wine online thanLIQUID ASSET anyone else in Australia. We manage the marketing, INTO CASH warehousing, logistic and payment - making it the most effective but also the easiest retail channel. Call Patrick Barry on 0409 892 446 or email [email protected] March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 91

wine investment & collectingAustralian fine wine market following the The proliferation of new brands stemming Bordeaux. An insurance claim auctiondifficult conditions of 2009 precipitated from the oversupply in Australia and New of Burgundy in mid-October attractedby the global financial crisis. A marked Zealand was a challenge in terms of intense interest and competitive bidding,increase in stock flows in the early part providing balanced auction catalogues with and at Melbourne’s single-vendor saleof the year improved liquidity, leading a diverse offering of wines at a variety of at the end of October, a bottle of 2004to larger catalogues. Having waited out price points, without becoming cluttered by Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Lemuch of 2009, sellers returned to the the ‘cheap and cheerful’ market segment. Montrachet sold for $2875. The strongmarket, buoyed by a brighter global Unrealistic vendor expectations continued interest in premium imported wineeconomic outlook, renewed confidence to be problematic for clearance rates, as continued into November, with a 2000and a stabilisation in prices. Near-record many vendors tried to recoup top-of-the- Chateau Petrus and a 2007 Domaineprices in April for the market barometer market 2007 prices despite multiple-lot de la Romanee Conti, Romanee ContiPenfolds Grange underscored the return offerings of even rare, sought-after wines achieving $5763 and $6900 respectively.to strength in the secondary market. flowing onto the market. The Melbourne-based single-vendor auction at the end of November saw a The second and third quarters of The fourth quarter began with the 1985 Domaine Henri Jayer Beaumonts,2010 saw a continued upswing in release of Langton’s Classification of Vosne-Romanee reach $3221. Continuedsupply. Many collectors, relieved at the Australian Wine V. Widespread media demand for rare early vintage Australianrenewed stability in the market, took the attention in the new classification and wine was also seen in November.opportunity to sell down and consolidate the sold-out tastings in Sydney andtheir cellars. This led to the appearance of Melbourne injected renewed interest December ushered in a new era ofsome rare pre-1970 Australian wines at into the Australian ultra-fine wine scene. weekly auctions for Langton’s, beginningauction. The supply of these early wines This was reflected in auction results in with the classification auction, whichhas decreased significantly, with many both Sydney and Melbourne. Strong gave buyers a chance to secure ultra-great vintages becoming scarcer with demand for Hill of Grace pushed prices fine Australian wine for Christmas. Theeach passing year. A sense of nostalgia to top estimate levels in Melbourne’s highlight was the sale of a complete setand an eagerness to own a piece of early October auction, with the 1998 of all 123 classified wines ($15,009), withAustralian wine history strengthened vintage achieving $632.50. Prices for early all proceeds of this lot being donated toprices beyond expectations, and this vintages of Penfolds Grange continued Able Australia. Other remarkable pricestrend continued into the fourth quarter. to gain strength, with the 1960 vintage included $2539 for a double magnum of selling for $1495 at the same auction. 2003 Chris Ringland Shiraz and a bottle With increased supply, two challenges of 1964 Grange reaching $1265.presented themselves throughout the Several single-vendor auctions inyear - the difficulty of providing a the fourth quarter underscored the As 2010 drew to a close it was clearfresh, uncluttered offering and achieving growing demand for top European the cautious optimism in which the yearconsistently desirable clearance rates. wines, particularly from Burgundy and began had solidified into actual buoyancy Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine www.oddbins.com.au Oddbins Wine Looking for Wine? Auctions Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070 to buy wine in three easy steps… Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue Email: [email protected] - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids!92 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011 - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What

wine investment & collectingand a sense of increased excitement in the “The wine auction world is like the search “All these brands have the age, quality,fine wine sphere. The breathtaking prices for gold,” says Lynton. “The deserts hide success, scale and position to seeachieved for classified growth Bordeaux rich veins and fortunes among the ruin them ramp up in international price andand Burgundy in 2010 by the top auction and heartbreak. The golden brands have demand,” says Lynton. “My suggestionhouses in Hong Kong had a noticeable prospered and dug their roots deep - is to buy boxes of celebrated wines fromimpact on general buyer confidence in ready for new growth and strength. There these houses and sit on them for 10 years.Australia. While the Australian market are roughly 100 bankable wine brands But be very selective. If you’re lookingis unlikely to see these same over-the in Australia. The majority are privately for an investment - well, a dozen 2005top prices, the overall sense of a quiet owned. Everyone, without exception, has Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon will notreturn to a bull market cannot be ignored. concentrated on quality and value over be cheap but, the upside? If it doesn’tIncreasing the frequency of auctions will foolish volume.” maintain capital stability over 10 years, Igive buyers and sellers more opportunity will eat my hat!”to trade, capitalising on the dynamism Lynton says “the drinker of quality”building in the market. wants consistency and a connection with Lynton’s tip for buyers at auction is not to a reputable brand - and the Australian go back to the past century but to look at Early indications in January are promising, wine industry is ready to deliver. “The Age the very best from the past 10 years andwith strong prices and increased depth of Aquarius for Australian wine is upon hold. “Don’t forget - the very best,” heof bidding for bottles of 1950s Grange us and there are a number of ‘standard says. “Do the research. Don’t just listen tosignalling a return to market form. Although bearers’ pushing the envelope and ready enthusiastic sales staff.”many challenges are still present in the to ascend,” he says. “It may be a big callsecondary market, it appears 2011 may just but - factoring in experience, demand, On a separate note, the rampant $A ishail a quiet return to bull market conditions. budget and the blessing of ‘wunder-garten’ proving a bonanza for wine importers. vineyard sites - top Australian producers “Against a flaccid euro, we are importing For more information, visit www. are ready to take on the world and shake some serious bargains,” says Lynton.langtons.com.au. the temple foundations.” “Better still, some of the brands that Australia didn’t get to see because weSTERLING WINE AUCTIONS A snapshot of these ‘standard bearers’ didn’t rank on size or market value are& EXCHANGE include Brokenwood, Tyrrell’s, McWilliam’s, now starting to float on Down Under. The(JANUARY REPORT) De Bortoli, Mount Mary, Bass Phillip, new wave of Frenchies from the RhoneThe outlook for the Australian wine Dalwhinnie, Giaconda, Chambers, Buller, are hustled on both sides by killer superindustry in 2011 is positive, according Morris, Rockford, Torbreck, Henschke, wines from Spain and Italy.”to Sterling’s managing director, Lynton Greenock Creek, Noon, Wynns, Penfolds,Barber, who believes the industry has Clarendon Hills, Kilikanoon, Grosset, Moss Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange“done the pain” and is now ready to “rise Wood, Cullen, Leeuwin, Voyager, Howard conducts a live online auction eachreborn from the ashes”. Park and Cape Mentelle. month. For more information, visit www.sterlingwine.com.au. AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 93

wine investment & collectingCRACKA WINES for selling the most expensive or clearing the reinforcing the impression that buyers(DECEMBER REPORT) cheapest of wines,” says Cracka Wines CEO at Cracka Wines differ from the widerCracka Wines launched in late September and founder Dean Taylor. “We’ve proven in wine-buying population. Sparkling wineslast year, bringing to Australia a unique new a short time that with the right model it’s were also generally popular, from brandedchannel for the general public and trade possible to cater for the market in between.” champagnes down to lesser-known localalike to buy both new release and vintage labels, although without doubt seasonalwines through their Dutch Clock Auction Buyers enjoyed tremendous prices on a factors would have been a significant driver,platform, in which the price drops from the range of offerings, with a handful of non- with the proportion of sparkling wine salesrecommended retail price until all cases vintage champagnes generating significant expected to drop during the cooler months.are cleared or the reserve price is reached. interest in the lead-up to Christmas. Veuve Clicquot and Moet & Chandon led the Well-cellared vintage and premium wines Despite the challenging trading charge, selling for prices as low as $54.50 also far exceeded expectations, withconditions, Cracka Wines managed to sign and $45.50 respectively. Other products buyers showing strong interest, particularlyup 10,000 subscribers in three months and that proved particularly popular include for aged red wines. In some cases, savvysell more than 5000 cases of wine with an Oyster Bay 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, some buyers realised discounts of up to 75 peraverage bottle price of $12.70, the majority of which sold for $10. At the same time, cent on some exceptional Australian wines.of which were current releases from a Cracka Wine Auctions also sold large Songlines’ well-regarded Bylines Shirazrange of producers. volumes of clearance wines at $8 a bottle 2005 sold far below its recommended retail and less, both in straight and mixed cases, price of $65, with some buyers paying as Early support for this revolutionary platform which, combined with sales of premium little as $15 a bottle. A perfectly cellaredcame from the likes of well-known Australian wine, illustrated the appeal of the auction selection of the Xanadu Lagan Reservebrands such as De Bortoli, Howard Park, platform to a wide range of buyers at a Cabernet Sauvignon from 1998 was alsoLeasingham, Coriole and Grant Burge, number of quality levels. in strong demand, with prices ranging fromreflecting the growing interest in the $16 to $25.use of online auction platforms to sell The overall mix of bids and sales revealedcurrent-release wine. During November and a relatively wine-savvy audience, with Cracka Wines conduct daily live auctions atDecember, major distributors and wineries riesling and pinot noir more popular than 1pm on weekdays and 8pm on weekends. Foralike joined the rush to list wines with expected, while shiraz and varietal cabernet more information, visit www.crackawines.Cracka, including the Casama Group, Samuel sauvignon sales were also strong. With com.au or email [email protected] & Son and Maison Chapoutier. “In the the exception of Oyster Bay sauvignon au. All quoted prices are per bottle, with nopast, online wine auctions were only used blanc, sales were below expectations, buyer’s premium applicable.Australia’s newest and most exciting wine auction house with leading brands at up to 80% off RRP Daily wine auctions “The only way to buy wine online” Premium and clearance wines www.crackawines.com.au94 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

wine investment & collectingLIQUID ASSET FINE albeit at a lower price level. Clos de Papes products. Of special interest have beenWINE AUCTIONS 2004, Vieux Donjon 2005 and 2007, de la a few cases of a Te Mata ColeraineFitzGerald Wine Auctions became part of Janasse 2005 and Charbonniere les Hauts vertical - 1997 to 2008 inclusive. TheyDirect Wines Ltd on August 1, 2010 and Brusquieres 2000 all fetched between have regularly achieved over $1000,has since been renamed Liquid Asset. The $120 and $165. Moreover, at the end with one keen buyer paying $1300.subsequent change of management has of the year, more Chateauneuf-du-Pape On top of this, a magnum of 2000seen a move to new, improved premises de la Janasse Vieilles Vignes - this time Coleraine fetched $200. Other sales ofand a focus on improving service and 2007 - sold at $265. note have been Montana Tom 1996 atproviding storage and tasting opportunities $100-plus and a variety of Stonyridgeof fine wine; the clearance-style wines Italian wines have also performed Larose vintages selling consistently,have fallen under other Direct Wines well. Liquid Asset were delighted to also at $100-plus. There was also some,brands. In addition, the new Liquid Asset receive a range of vintages of Tenuta perhaps surprisingly, good trade for oldwebsite will also have an online store, San Guido Sassicaia. The 2000 and 2006 NZ white wines, with the most sought-where many of the world’s leading wines sold best, with $185 to $230 regularly after being Neudorf Riesling 1996 atwill be available for sale at fixed prices. being achieved. In addition, a bottle $50, which the buyer later told us was of Tenuta dell’ Ornellaia Masset 2001 ‘fantastic’. This is encouraging news The results are already being seen with reached over $585. for the future of the NZ white wines asincreasing vendor and buyer numbers most are made for prompt consumptionleading to higher clearance rates Australian wine sales were steady and have thus historically markedlythroughout November and December, with, as ever, Penfolds Grange leading decreased in value over time.with the highlight being a double magnum the way. There always seems to beof Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1983 which vendors ready to sell this wine. The ’75 And finally, the oddity of the period wasmade $4925. sold for $265, the ’95 for $355, the ’96 some Mayfair Cold Duck NV, not in very for $355, the ’88 for $410 and the ’98 for good condition, that created some keen Top-end French wines in general sold $590. Other wines worthy of note were bidding and eventually went for $25 awell, with Chateau Mouton-Rothschild magnums of d'Arenberg 2001 Dead Arm bottle. (Cold Duck was typically a mixturein particular proving popular. The ’99, Shiraz ($265) and bottles of Torbreck of red and white sparkling wine that had’02 and ’03 vintages all made between 2001 Run Rig Shiraz ($280) and Rusden high sugar content).$575 and $600. Interestingly, there was 2001 Black Guts Shiraz ($180).also excellent clearance rates for Rhone *All prices are in $NZ and includewines, particularly Chateauneuf-du-Pape, However, unsurprisingly, the best buyer’s premium. clearance rates have been for the home March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 95

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. 2000 $95 GREENOCK CREEK 1989 $240 2002 $40 2002 $65 2001 $70 Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $460  2003 $30 2003 $60 Shiraz 2004 $30 2004 $60  2005 $40 2002 $65 1995 $370 1991 $370 2003 $80 1992 $340  2004 $75 1996 $280 1993 $280 E & E Black 2005 $80 1997 $190  1994 $340 Pepper Shiraz 2006 $90 DE BORTOLI 1998 $380 1995 $290 1990 $85  Noble One (375ml) 1990 $451991 $90 1991 $40 1999 $180 1996 $450 1992 $24 2000 $2201992 $56 CLARENDON HILLS 1993 $30 1997 $290  Georgia’s Paddock 1994 $46 2001 $240  1998 $450 1990 $1101993 $65 Astralis Shiraz 1995 $38 2002 $400  1999 $340 1991 $60 Chardonnay 1994 $220 1996 $50 1992 $80 Art Series1994 $65 1995 $210 1997 $35  2003 $200  2001 $330 1993 $951995 $60 1998 $45  1994 $85 1990 $601996 $90 1996 $300 1999 $30 2002 $440 1995 $75 1991 $70 2000 $35  Roennfeldt Road 2004 $450 1996 $70 1992 $75 1997 $70 1997 $250 2001 $24 Cabernet 2005 $350 1997 $65 1993 $68 1998 $320 2002 $45  1998 $85 1994 $751998 $100 1999 $310 2003 $24 Sauvignon 1999 $70 1995 $1501999 $70 2004 $25 2000 $75 1996 $652000 $65 2000 $270 2006 $30 1995 $300 Hill of Grace 2001 $80 1997 $75 1996 $200 Magnum 2002 $85 1998 $702001 $65 2001 $300 Elderton 1997 $165 2003 $80 1999 $85 2002 $320 Command Shiraz 1980 $500 2004 $75 2000 $752002 $85 1990 $100 1998 $290 1981 Not Released 2005 $55 2001 $90 2003 $54 2003 $210 1991 Not Released 2006 $65 2002 $85 2004 $350 1992 $75 1999 $220 1982 $530 2003 $1102004 $65 1993 $65 2000 $210 2004 $95  2005 $320 1994 $95 1983 $480 2005 $75 1995 $75 2001 $210 1984 $420 2006 $70 1996 $95 2002 $260  1985 Not Released BASS PHILLIP CLONAKILLA 1997 $80 1986 $950Premium Pinot Noir Shiraz Viognier 1998 $90 1987 $650 1990 $65 1999 $60 Grossett 1988 $500 1990 $80 1993 $65 2000 $65 Polish Hill Riesling 1989 $650 1991 $100 1994 $85 2001 $80 1992 $120 1995 $65 2002 $75  1990 $55 1990 $850 1993 $100 1996 $100 2003 $60  1991 $45 1994 $120 1997 $100 2004 $80 1992 $45 1991 $650 1995 $95 1998 $120  2005 $65 1992 $580 Majella 1996 $115 1999 $55 1993 $45 1994 $750  The Malleea Shiraz 1997 $180 2000 $65 1994 $45 1998 $110 2001 $130  1995 $50 Cabernet 1999 $140 2002 $85 1996 $60 Cyril Henschke Armagh Shiraz 1996 $55 2000 $110 2003 $95  1990 $95 1990 $220 1997 $48 2001 $100 2004 $100 1997 $60 1991 $85 1991 $180 1998 $95  2002 $145 2005 $120  1998 $40 1992 $120 1999 $50 2003 $110 2006 $100  1999 $45  1992 $85  1993 $110 2000 $42 2004 $85 2007 $120 2000 $35 1993 $80 1994 $130 2001 $70 2005 $80 1994 $85 1995 $130 2002 $65 2007 $90 2001 $40 1995 $70 1996 $150 2003 $65 2002 $55 1997 $150 2004 $55 2003 $45 1996 $120  1998 $220  2005 $60 2004 $45  1997 $70 1999 $130 2005 $55 1998 $110  2000 $120 1999 $75 2001 $130 GIACONDA 2006 $40 2002 $200Best’s Thomson Chardonnay 2007 $40 2000 $80  2004 $145 Family Shiraz 2001 $801992 $85 1990 $100 2008 $40 2002 $1001993 Not Released 1991 $75 2003 $65 1992 $851994 $70 1993 $90 2004 $100 1995 $100 1994 $1001996 $95 Cabernet Merlot 1995 $85 2005 $80 KAY BROS MOSS WOOD1997 $75 1990 $95 1996 $130 2005 $75 Block 6 Old Vine Cab Sauv1998 $100 1991 $100 1997 $90 1999 Not Released 1992 $80 1998 $125 Eileen Hardy Mount Edelstone Shiraz 1990 $1302000 Not Released 1993 $85 1999 $110 Shiraz 1990 $120 1990 $95 1991 $120 2001 $90 1994 $90 2000 $110 1991 $90 1991 $50 1992 $1202004 $70 1995 $95 2001 $100 1990 $90  1992 $90  1992 $75 1993 $90 1996 $100 2002 $160 1991 $50 1993 $80 1993 $50 1994 $130 BINDI 1997 $90 2004 $170 1992 $55 1994 $75 1994 $60 1995 $170Block 5 Pinot Noir 1998 $95 2005 $130 1993 $60 1995 $75 1995 $50 1996 $1501997 $80 1999 $95 2006 $120 1994 $75  1996 $95 1996 $65 1997 $851998 $95 2000 $85  1995 $65 1997 $70 1997 $45 1998 $1501999 Not Released 2001 $80 1996 $80  1998 $95 1998 $80 1999 $1402000 $160 2002 Not Released 1997 $50 1999 $75  1999 $65 2000 $1202001 $95 2003 $75 1998 $85 2000 $65 2000 $65 2001 $1202002 $110 2004 $70 1999 $50 2001 $85  2001 $65 2002 $95 2000 $55 2002 $130 2002 $70 2003 $952003 $85 D’ARENBERG Meshach 2001 $75 2003 $80 2003 $60 2004 $852004 $140 The Dead Arm 1990 $110 2002 $55 2004 $85 2004 $65 2005 $85 2005 $120 1991 $85  2003 $55 2005 $75 2005 $54 2006 $652006 $70 Shiraz 1992 $70 2004 $65 2006 $552007 $75 1994 $120 1993 $65 KATNOOK ESTATE MOUNT MARY 1995 $55 1994 $75 2006 $80 Odyssey Cab Sauv Quintet 1996 $75 1995 $80  1991 $90 BROKENWOOD 1997 $60 1996 $95  Hill of Grace Keyneton Estate 1992 $75 1990 $260 Graveyard Shiraz 1998 $65 1997 Not Released 1980 $250 1990 $45 1993 Not Released 1991 $1101990 $90 1999 $60  1998 $130  1981 $230 1991 $45 1994 $75 1992 $1101991 $100 2000 $55  1999 $85 1982 $240 1992 $45 1995 Not Released 1993 $1301992 Not Released 2001 $55  2000 $70 1983 $240 1993 $45 1996 $95 1994 $1201993 $75 2002 $60 2001 $85 1984 $210 1994 $36 1997 $65 1995 $1001994 $80 2003 $65 2002 $85  1985 $250  1995 $34 1998 $85 1996 $1601995 $70 2004 $60 2003 $75 1986 $350 1996 $50 1999 $75  1997 $110 1996 $95 2005 $48 2004 $75 1987 $210 1997 $34 2000 $80 1998 $1601997 $70 2006 $55 1988 $300  1998 $60 2001 $70 1999 $1201998 $110 1999 $36 2000 $1601999 $85 2000 $35 2001 $120 2001 $30  2002 $140 96 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.2003 $130  1995 $800 2002 $80 1993 $750 1980 $2202004 $140  1996 $1,000 2003 $55 1994 $600 1982 $5002005 $160  1997 $800 2004 $75 1995 $500 1983 $1802006 $150 1998 $1,200 2005 $65 1996 $1,200 1985 $300 1999 $800 1997 Not Released 1988 $260 2000 $1,100 Magill Estate Stonewell Shiraz 1998 $1,000 John Riddoch 1990 $600  Cab Sauv 2001 $1,100 1990 $70 1990 $90  1999 $800  1990 $70 1992 $200 1991 $70 2002 $1,500 1991 $70  1992 $60 2000 $450 1991 $75  1993 $220 2003 $900  1992 $55 2001 $850  1992 $60 1995 $220 1993 $50 1993 $65 2002 $850 1996 $280 1994 $65 1993 $55 Bin 95 Grange 1994 $60 1994 $70 1998 $2601951 $43,000 1995 $45 1995 $60 TORBRECK 1995 Not Released 1999 $2201952 $17,000 1996 $951953 $13,000 1996 $70 1997 $65 1996 $65 2000 $2501954 $14,000 1997 $50 Run Rig Shiraz 1997 $50 FORTIFIEDS1955 $3,600 1998 $75 1998 $75 1995 $250 1998 $801956 $14,000 1999 $65  1999 $60 1996 $350 1999 $52 Para Liqueur1957 $11,000 Bin 707 2000 $55 2000 $75 1997 $240 2003 $50 1878 $1,2001958 $4,800 1980 $110 2001 $55 2001 $65 1998 $350 2004 $50 1879 $1,2001959 $2,000 1981 Not Released 2002 $55 2002 $70 1999 $200 2005 $75 1880 $8001960 $1,400 1982 $120 2000 Not Released 1881 $8001961 $1,200 1983 $130 2001 $190 1887 $8001962 $1,100 1984 $95 2003 $70 2002 $220 Michael Shiraz 1893 $1,0001963 $1,000 2004 $65  2003 $200 1955 $1,600 1899 $1,0001964 $650  1985 $120 2005 $60 2004 $200 1990 $95  1908 $5501965 $550 1986 $160 2005 $200 1991 $65 1910 $5001966 $600 1987 $110 2006 $75 2006 $170 1992 Not Released 1922 $6501967 $700 1993 $50 1925 $8001968 $550 1988 $130 Bin 389 1994 $65  1927 $4801969 $550 1989 $110 Basket Press 1995 Not Released 1930 $1801970 $360 1990 $170 1990 $100 Shiraz 1996 $55 1933 $1601971 $700 1991 $80 1997 $55  1939 $1501972 $350 1991 $140 1992 $50  1990 $150 1998 $60 1944 $901973 $360  1992 $120 1991 $135 1999 $45 1947 $801974 $380 1993 $130 1993 $55 2003 $50 1951 $3001975 $400 1994 $55  1992 $95 2004 $60 1976 $801976 $650 1994 $150 1995 $50 1993 $75 2005 $65 1977 $381977 $390 1995 Not Released 1996 $85 1994 $90 Shiraz The Octavius Shiraz 1978 $701978 $400 1996 $200  1997 $45 1990 $145 1990 $75 1979 $521979 $370  1997 $140 1998 $80  1995 $75 1991 $130 1991 Not Released 1980 $301980 $340 1998 $200 1996 $140 1992 $75 1992 $60 1981 $1001981 $340 1999 $130 1999 $50 1993 $80 1993 $45 Para Liqueur Bin1982 $350 2000 $44  1997 $80 1994 $160 1994 $701983 $360 2000 Not Released 2001 $50 1998 $190  1995 $90  1995 $65 Numbered1984 $320 2001 $120 2002 $55 1999 $95  1996 $160  1996 $90 NV $201985 $350 2002 $150 1997 $90  1997 $60 1986 $550 2003 $50  2000 $80 1998 $1601987 $320 2003 Not Released 2004 $48 2001 $85 1999 $110 1988 $340 2004 $150 2005 $50 2000 $801989 $340 2005 $140  2002 $110 2001 $951990 $580 2006 $150 2006 $50 2003 $90  2002 $1501991 $400 2003 $801992 $340  RWT  2004 $95  2004 $1501993 $330 1997 $95 2005 $95 2005 $1301994 $340 1998 $140 2006 $1501995 $320 1999 $100 2006 $851996 $480  2000 $901997 $340 Bin 707 Magnum 2001 $85 1998 $1001998 $540 1980 $190 1999 $601999 $410 1981 Not Released 2000 $602000 $420 1982 $210 2001 $852001 $400 1983 $260 2002 $902002 $450 1984 $190 2003 $802003 $380 1985 $230 2002 $120 Old Block Shiraz WILD DUCK CREEK 2004 $80 Grandfather Port2004 $520 1986 $340 2003 $100 1990 $85  ‘Duck Muck’ 11940 $240 1987 $190 2004 $110 1991 $50 Shiraz 1945 $220 1988 $180 2005 $90 1992 $35  1989 $175 2006 $110 1993 $40 1994 $400 1990 $360 1994 $45 1995 $400 1991 $240 Block 42 1995 $45  1996 Not Released 1992 $165 Cab Sauv 1996 $56 1997 $490 1993 $200 1996 $420 1997 $40 1998 Not Released 1994 $350 2004 $500 1998 $60 1999 Not Released 1995 Not Released 1999 $45 2000 $350 1996 $360 2000 $40 2001 $340 1997 $225 2001 $40 2002 $360 Dry Red No. 1 1998 $290 2002 $75  2004 $320 1990 $150 Vintage Port 1999 $190 2003 $50 2007 $260 1991 $65 2000 Not Released 2004 $50 1992 $55 1956 $120Bin 95 Grange 2001 $250 Coonawarra Black Label 1993 $55 1958 $140 Magnum 2002 $235 Red Blend SEPPELT 1990 $100 1994 $70 1964 $110 2004 $300 Show Sparkling 1991 $110  1995 $55 1965 $1101979 $2,000 2005 $320 1990 $65 1992 $70 1996 $65 1966 $1001980 $900 1991 $55 Shiraz 1993 $80  1997 $75 1967 $651981 $1,000 1992 $40 1984 $65 1994 $95  1998 $75 1968 $651982 $950 St. Henri 1993 $35 1985 $90 1995 $80 1999 $50 1971 $601983 $1,000 1990 $170  1994 $40 1986 $75 1996 $75 2000 $651984 $880 1991 $95 1995 $35 1987 $70 1997 $65 2001 $120 1985 $900 1992 $70 1996 $55  1990 $70 2002 $651986 $2,000 1993 $70 1997 $45 1991 $45 2003 $601987 $900 1994 $65 1998 $75 1993 $55 2004 $851988 $800 1995 $60 1999 $45 1994 $65 1989 $850 1996 $120  2000 $45  1998 $110 Moet et Chandon1990 $2,000 1997 $60 2001 $40 THREE RIVERS/ 1999 $60 Cuvee Dom1991 $1,100 1998 $95  2002 $35 Chris Ringland 2000 $70 Perignon1992 $1,000 1999 $70 2004 $45 Wines Shiraz 2001 $701993 $1,000 2000 $60 2005 $45 1990 $900 2002 $120 1973 $3601994 $800 2001 $60 2006 $45 1991 $700  2003 $60 1975 $400 1992 $650 2004 $70 1976 $240 1978 $290 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 97

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIANEW LIVES FOR OLD PUBS but a six-course tasting menu for $50 is Only Victorian products are allowed and also popular. Starters include dishes such the region’s top wineries are involved.FORMER gold mining town Castlemaine, as crumbed lamb brains with broad beanone of the prettiest hamlets in Central salad, or linguini with yabbies, garlic and Celebrity chef Manu Feildel will return withVictoria, has tempting dining destinations chilli. Mains may include an organic goat twice-daily cooking demonstrations usingincluding the Public Inn gastro pub and pie, or char-grilled spatchcock with grapes. local produce, and Grampians winemakersThe Good Table. will conduct the annual barrique auction The wine list features an enticing mix of of their one-off shiraz. Other highlights Owned and operated by Hayden Winch, Central Victorian offerings, along with some include a festival dinner, live bands andformerly of Bendigo’s Dispensary Enoteca, the impressive imports. The Good Table is at roving entertainers, with prices rangingPublic Inn, which opened last July on the site of 233 Barker St and is open for lunches and from $10 to $30. Entrance to the dinnerthe old Criterion Hotel, is a provincial bistro and dinners Thursday-Sunday. Phone (03) 5472 costs $130, including wines. For the latestbar showcasing food and wine with genuine 4400; www.thegoodtable.com.au. information and ticket bookings see www.rural flavour. A feature of the rustic timber fit- grampiansgrapeescape.com.au.out is a barrel wall which enables staff to pour For those wanting to stay overnight,regional wine, sourced within a 50km radius, The Empyre Boutique Hotel offers APPLES AND GRAPESdirect from barrel to glass. accommodation in an historic building with six suites, good food and an extensive VISITORS can combine wine and cider Chef Spencer Clements has worked at collection of regional wines. Owner John tastings when they visit the Bress facilityCirca The Prince and Lamaro's in South Ganci is now using his passion for food at Harcourt.Melbourne and creates European-influenced and wine to host guided tours of thedishes using local produce when possible. district. See www.empyre.com.au. Winemaker and proprietor Adam MarksHighlights include charcuterie dishes (such is enthused about both beverages - andas pork rillettes or duck and pistachio terrine) ESCAPE TO THE guests can combine them with food. Aserved with house-made brioche and fig GRAMPIANS wood-fired oven and 9m-long spit are atchutney, or maybe wild rabbit loin wrapped the centrepiece of much of the cuisine.in pancetta filled with a tarragon mousse. ONE of the biggest food and wine events Shared al fresco tables with views of in Western Victoria is the Grampians Mount Alexander create a communal The daily two-course ‘Inn and Out' lunch Grape Escape, which will be held on the atmosphere and the menu is basedcosts $25, including a glass of wine weekend of April 30-May 1 and is this on seasonal and local produce, with afrom the barrel. A bar menu is available year celebrating its 20th anniversary. Mediterranean-inspired three-course setthroughout the day, while dinner service The event serves as a major showcase of menu costing $40 a head; Bress wines andstarts daily from 6pm. 100 of Western Victoria’s finest food and ciders are available by the glass or bottle. wine artisans and is expected to attract Lunch usually starts with a shared plate of Hayden and business partner Peter more than 8000 foodies to the Halls Gap appetisers served with freshly baked breadMcMahon also plan a second venue as Village Oval. and is followed by a slow-cooked meatpart of the adjoining courtyard in early dish (maybe lamb shanks), served with a2011, to be called Bricolage - a French garden salad, and dessert.word translating to “something made ofmaterials at hand, or something shapedand influenced from its environment”.Breakfast will be served here on Saturdaysand Sundays from 9am. The Public Inn is on Criterion corner,at the intersection of Barker and Mostynstreets. See www.publicinn.com.au orphone (03) 5472 3568. The Good Table is a smart eatery in abuilding that previously housed a tiredpub. The simple decor is matched by amenu featuring tapas and small platesinspired by chef Alexander Perry’s stintsat Melbourne stars MoVida and Cafe DiStasio. Shared plates are in vogue here98 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

travelbriefs A range of regular on-site events includes says. “We’re thrilled to be part of that.” ROYAL MAILCider and Swine Day, when pork is cooked on Heathcote Estate cellar door is managed TEMPTATIONSthe spit over apple prunings. Bress also sells arange of home-produced olive oils, chutneys, by Nick Johansen and, in addition to DUNKELD’S Royal Mail Hotel is a meccavinegars and pickles. The Bress cellar door a focus on shiraz, will also offer wines for both wine and food lovers, withis at 3894 Old Calder Highway, Harcourt, from affiliated vineyards, including the sommelier Jeremy Shiell urging visitorsless than 90 minutes from Melbourne, and Yabby Lake and Red Claw wines from the to the Grampians to be adventurous andis open weekends and public holidays Mornington Peninsula labels which are also try something other than the region’sfrom 11am-5pm. The restaurant is open owned by the Kirby family. signature shiraz. “Shiraz does carryfrom October until Mother’s Day each year. the torch for the Grampians region,Visits during the week are by appointment. The dining area has indoor and outdoor but Bests and Mount Langi GhiranPhone (03) 5474 2262; www.bress.com.au. seating and culinary offerings include have equally good pinot meunier homemade pies and tarts, rustic pizzas, and old-clone pinot noir, while theBAKERY’S WINE cheese and charcuterie products. Grampians rieslings and chardonnaysREINCARNATION are underappreciated,” he says. The dining area and cellar door are openHEATHCOTE’S main street has another cellar Wednesday to Sunday from 10am-5pm. Among his local tips are Tamara Irish’sdoor following the opening of Heathcote Phone (03) 5433 2488. new Enigma Variations wines from Henty,Estate’s new facility in December last year. Rory Lane’s The Story label - whichThe winery, one of Heathcote’s best-known SPORTY FLAVOURS features a trio of Grampians shiraz andshiraz producers, has taken over the old a pinot noir from Henty - and wines madebakery building at 98 High St and converted MELBOURNE Sports Tours offer a very by rising star Adam Wadewitz at Bestsit into a rustic cellar door and cafe that offers different Victorian experience with their Great Western.wine tastings, grazing plates and light lunches, Horses, Wine and Beer Tour. The itinerarycoffee and a range of Grossi produce. features a visit to Woodlands Historic The Royal Mail restaurant is now open Park, a traditional Australian homestead from Wednesday to Sunday evening, Winemaker and general manager Tom that is home to some of Australia’s most with a special offer featuring 50 perCarson says the opening of the cellar famous retired racehorses. Morning tea is cent off accommodation costs for thosedoor has marked an exciting new era provided, then a winery lunch and tastings dining on a Sunday in March.for the vineyard, which was established at Gisborne Peak Winery in the Macedonat a site on nearby Drummonds Lane Ranges wine region and a beer tasting at The Royal Mail has also introducedmore than a decade ago. “There is a Holgate Brewery, a country pub with classic weekly tours ($15 per person) of onereal sense of momentum in Heathcote, beer styles. There is time for shopping in of Australia’s most impressive cellars,with a terrific community of talented the main street of pretty Woodend. which houses an extensive selectionfood and wine producers and hospitality of Australian and international wines,operators taking the region forward,” he For details phone Melbourne Sports including Australia's leading collection Tours on (03) 8802 4547 or visit www. of Bordeaux and Burgundy. melbournesportstours.com.au. For gourmets with cash to splash, the Royal Mail’s new wine and stay packages for 2011 include accommodation in a luxury king apartment, a welcome gift of handcrafted Koko Black chocolates, seasonal fruit and a bottle of 2001 Yarrabank late disgorged sparkling wine on arrival, dinner for two in the restaurant including wines and a midday check-out. A continental breakfast and morning newspaper delivery are also included. Prices start from $945 per couple. Above: Bress al fresco dining. Opposite page. Left: Grampians Grape Escape. Right: The Public Inn interior. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 99

142 TASTED72 AWARDEDCENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIASome difficult vintages over the past couple of years Harcourt Valley Vineyards Preece Centralhave affected these results, particularly chardonnay, Riesling 2010 HHH Victoria Sauvignon Blancwhich is normally one of the highlights of the tasting. Interesting style; smells of 2010 HHHHowever, there are still good wines in each category. orange blossom and spices Good varietal characters of citrusVarietal whites performed the best, with riesling, and has a sweet entry to the and cut grass with lifted aromassauvignon blanc and pinot gris, marsanne and viognier varietally accurate palate. $18 and intense flavours. $15ones to look out for. Mitchelton Blackwood McPherson Basilisk Park Central Victoria Central Victoria Sauvignon Riesling 2010 HHH Blanc 2010 HHH Bouquet of roses and lemons Some tropical fragrances with and a very elegant palate with a simple, fresh, ripe palate - delicate flavours. $17 nice finish. $17.99SPARKLING Blue Pyrenees Midnight SAUVIGNON OTHER WHITE Cuvee 2004 HHH BLANC & BLENDS VARIETALS9 TASTED Youthful, yeasty citrus aromas & BLENDS5 AWARDED and a fresh, crisp, aperitif-style 7 TASTED palate. $29 5 AWARDED 11 TASTEDA mixed bag. The best had Consistent group of interesting, 9 AWARDEDfreshness and vibrancy with RIESLING vibrant wines; a few werean appropriate level of dosage verging on a slightly hard finish. Strong class of interesting(sweetness level) to balance 6 TASTED Mount Avoca Pyrenees varietal wines with a nicethe acidity. 4 AWARDED Fume Blanc 2009 HHHH diversity of early and late The 2010 vintage was a difficult Very appealing food wine. picked styles. “Lots of potentialBlue Pyrenees Vintage cool year and although these Quite a smoky/oaky nose and a here,” agreed the judges.Brut 2008 HHHH wines are more floral they beautifully balanced palate full ofCreamy red berry bouquet with are light in flavour, with the long, complex, oaky flavours. $22 Redbank Long Paddocksome yeasty notes, followed top wines showing excellent Central Victoria Pinot Grisby a light and lively, youthful balance and vivacity. Taltarni T Series Victoria 2009 HHHHpalate with long, soft flavours Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Quite Alsatian-like and smellingand zippy acidity. $24 Montara Grampians 2010 HHH1/2 of spicy poached pears with Riesling 2009 HHHH1/2 Well-made, tight, crisp style with excellent intensity of flavour.Mount Avoca Jack Barry Musty herbal notes mingle with tropical cut grass aromas, and a Palate has texture and balance,Pyrenees Sparkling Shiraz the zesty lime aromas and the fresh and vibrant palate with a with a mineral acid line. $13.95NV HHHH palate shows great intensity of zippy acid structure. $14.99Aged, leathery nose - sweet fresh lime juice flavours with a Redbank The Long Tahbilk Central Victoriaand funky, with minty notes. tight, minerally acid structure. $17 Paddock Sauvignon Blanc Viognier 2010 HHHHBeautifully balanced berry McPherson Basilisk 2010 HHH1/2 Very crisp, fresh winepalate with a fine and complex Central Victoria Riesling Smoky, punchy, grassy aromas brimming over with vibranttannic backbone. $22 2010 HHHH1/2 with a passionfruit lift, and citrus/tropical fruit characters Very floral aromatics with musky some very intense and vibrant and balanced by a tight acidBlue Pyrenees Luna sweet elements. Tight and very tropical fruit flavours. $13.95 structure. Needs more time inChardonnay Pinot Noir youthful palate with a delicate the cellar. $19.50NV HHH1/2 mouthful of citrus-like flavours.Flavoursome, mouthfilling wine Lovely elegant style. $17.99 Tahbilk Central Victoriathat’s tangy and refreshing and Marsanne 2009 HHHHhas a good level of complexity Tight, fine and elegant stylewith length and power. $20 of wine with a pleasant spicy note to the nose and spicy/Seppelt Silverband nutty flavours filling the finelyGrampians Sparkling textured palate. $15.65Shiraz NV HHHElegantly structured winewith lovely long, vibrant,aged Christmas cake-likeflavours. $36.99100 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011