Winestate Magazine March April 2011

regional tastingMERLOT Auntsfield Marlborough Brancott Estate ‘T’ Villa Maria Cellar Pinot Noir 2009 HHHHH Terraces Marlborough Selection Marlborough8 TASTED Deeply coloured, with a Pinot Noir 2008 HHHHH Pinot Noir 2009 HHHHH4 AWARDED voluminous bouquet of plums, Youthful and richly fragrant, Densely coloured, weighty, herbs and violets, showing with full, bright colour and firm, vibrant red, sweet-fruited, withMerlot struggles to achieve great complexity. Rich, finely concentrated flavours, ripe, concentrated, ripe cherry andfull ripeness in Marlborough, textured palate, overflowing plummy, nutty, savoury and plum flavours and a subtleexcept on the hottest sites. with ripe cherry, plum and structured. Sweet-fruit delights, seasoning of oak. Tight, youthfulThe panel recommended spice flavours. “Ethereal and with impressive length and wine, firm and spicy, with freshseveral reds, but leafy, herbal complete,” enthused one elegance. $42 (A, US) acidity, good intensity andnotes tend to emerge over judge. $40 (A, UK, US) Vavasour Awatere Valley length. $31.60 (A, UK, US)time, suggesting these wines Saint Clair Pioneer Block Pinot Noir 2008 HHHHH Saint Clair Pioneer Blockare best enjoyed young. 12 Lone Gum Pinot Noir Seductively rich and smooth, 5 Bull Block Pinot Noir 2009 HHHHH with deep, bright colour and 2009 HHHH1/2Saint Clair Rapaura Lovely, densely packed, flowing fresh, rich, sweet-fruit delights. Still very youthful and built toReserve Marlborough red that leapt straight to a Vibrantly fruity, supple and last. Deeply coloured, withMerlot 2009 HHHH five-star score from all judges. flowing, with red fruit and spice strong, ripe cherry and spiceDeeply coloured, with a strong Deeply coloured, very generous characters, a silky texture and a flavours, savoury and complex.surge of blackcurrant/spice and supple, in a powerful style tight finish. $30 (A, UK, US) Weighty and finely textured,flavours, strong seasoning with rich, plummy, spicy fruit with fresh acidity. $33.50 (UK)with nutty oak (American, 57% that has easily lapped up its Saint Clair Pioneer Blocknew), a hint of olives, gentle strong oak influence (French, 16 Awatere Block Pinotacidity and supple tannins. 62% new). “Peacock tail Noir 2008 HHHH1/2Works well. $27.50 (UK) finish,” wrote one judge. $33.50 Full-coloured, with generous, spicy flavours, a hint of olivesMount Riley and impressive complexity.Marlborough Merlot Savoury and rich, with a velvetyMalbec 2009 HHH1/2 texture. $33.50 (A, UK)Densely coloured, vibrantly Saint Clair Pioneerfruity and supple, with plummy, Block 4 Sawcut Pinot Noirberryish flavours, showing 2009 HHHH1/2good concentration. $17.90 Richly floral, vibrantly fruity red, still very youthful, with pure,Saint Clair Marlborough ripe, sweet-fruit flavours ofMerlot 2009 HHH cherries and plums, seasonedMedium-bodied style with with French oak (53% new).good depth of fresh, plummy, Elegant, intensely varietal winespicy, slightly leafy flavours, with fresh, lively acidity. Wellseasoned with toasty American worth cellaring. $33.50oak. $21.50 (UK)Saint Clair Rapaura Lake Chalice MarlboroughReserve Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 HHHHMerlot 2008 HHH Mouthfilling and savoury,Full-coloured, with strong with youthful cherry andblackcurrant and spice flavours, spice flavours, warm andseasoned with French oak complex. Firm and weighty,(80% new). Still fruity and with good concentration andfresh. $27.50 (UK) length. $25 (A, UK)PINOT NOIR West Brook Marlborough Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Pinot Noir 2009 HHHHH Marlborough Pinot Noir52 TASTED Full-bodied, savoury and silky 2009 HHHH red with an array of cherry, Concentrated, ripe, spicy red with35 AWARDED plum, herb and spice flavours, a strong oak influence at this showing excellent complexity. stage, good texture and richness.Strong class, with numerous Saint Clair Pioneer Block Dense, ripe, finely balanced “Serious wine for the long haul,”top-flight wines, some offering 14 Doctor’s Creek Pinot and long. Priced sharply. $27 noted one judge. $33.95 (A)great value. The panel also Noir 2009 HHHHH Charles Wiffen Tohu Rore Reserverejected a significant number of Fragrant, dense, sweet-fruited Marlborough Pinot Noir Marlborough Pinot Noirlight, green-edged wines, but red with deep colour and 2009 HHHHH 2009 HHHHoverall, the wines were a vivid generous plum and spice Deep, youthful colour, with a Youthful, firmly structured redreminder that Marlborough is flavours. ‘Broody’ bouquet, with lovely bouquet of plums and with cherry, spice and herbone of the country’s greatest concentration right through the spices. Concentrated, elegant aromas. Rich, ripe flavours, finelypinot noir-producing regions. palate, structured tannins and red, savoury and complex, balanced, complex and long. One good length. $33.50 (A, UK) showing excellent ripeness, for the cellar. $38.95 (A, UK, US) texture and richness. Fine value. $27.50. March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 151

MARLBOROUGHWairau River Reserve Tohu Marlborough Pinot Lawson’s Dry Hills Charles Wiffen Late HarvestMarlborough Pinot Noir Noir 2009 HHH1/2 Marlborough Pinot Noir Marlborough Riesling2009 HHHH Full-bodied style with generous 2008 HHH 2009 (500ml) HHHHHRuby-hued, with a fragrant, cherry, plum and spice flavours Cherryish, plummy, slightly spicy From grapes picked five to sixspicy, savoury bouquet. and ripe, supple tannins. Good bouquet. Firmly structured palate, weeks after the main harvest,Medium-bodied, with fresh density, texture and length. with a slight lack of ripeness an enticingly scented wine withacidity and good richness and $27.95 (A, UK, US) and richness, but some savoury youthful colour, very fresh,complexity. $45 (A, UK, US) Yealands Estate complexity. $27 (A, UK, US) pure, citrusy flavours, a hint ofWither Hills Marlborough Marlborough Pinot Noir apricots, and lovely elegancePinot Noir 2008 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 Mount Riley Marlborough and richness. $32Rich, concentrated style with Savoury, firm Awatere Valley Pinot Noir 2009 HHHdeep colour. Weighty, ripe and red, medium-bodied, with Ruby-hued red with cherryish, Riverby Estate Marlboroughfirm, with slightly green tannins, cherryish, slightly herbal plummy, slightly herbal Noble Riesling 2009but also intense fruit characters aromas and flavours, good flavours. Easy-drinking (375ml) HHHHHand considerable savoury structure and length. $26.99 (A) style, with some weight and From fully botrytis-affectedcomplexity. $30 (A, UK, US) Allan Scott Hounds structure. $21.90 (A, UK) grapes, an unabashedly sweetBabich Marlborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Noir style with intense, pure lemon,Noir 2009 HHH1/2 2008 HHH Mount Riley Seventeen lime and apricot flavours,Light-bodied style, berryish, spicy Deeply coloured, with a bouquet Valley Marlborough Pinot very fresh, luscious, rich andand slightly leafy, with some of herbs and spices and good Noir 2009 HHH rounded. $26 (A, US)complexity, elegance and length. depth of cherry, spice and olive Firmly structured red, fresh, Cloudy BayGood value at $19.95. (A, UK, US) flavours, seasoned with nutty ripe and lively, with good Late Harvest RieslingClayridge Marlborough oak. Weighty, rich wine that flavour depth and some 2005 (375ml) HHHHHPinot Noir 2007 HHH1/2 impressed the panel more with savoury complexity. $34.90 (A) Barrel-aged for 18 months, thisDark, with strong plum and herb power than finesse. $31 (A) citrusy, minerally wine is drinkingflavours, seasoned with smoky Allan Scott Marlborough Rapaura Springs well now, with classic, slightlyFrench oak, and fresh acidity. Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Marlborough Pinot Noir toasty, aged riesling charactersWeighty and green-edged, with Ruby-hued, youthful, vibrantly 2008 HHH emerging, and lovely richness,some complexity. $29 fruity red with cherry, plum Gutsy, with full colour and vigour and presence. ‘Germanic’,Giesen Marlborough Pinot and slight herb flavours. Tight a very ripe, slightly raisiny wrote two judges. $35Noir 2009 HHH1/2 and fresh, with some nutty palate. Berry and herb flavours, Allan Scott Late HarvestSupple, strongly varietal red complexity. $26.80 (A, UK, US) with a minerally streak and Sauvignon Blanc 2008with fresh, ripe cherry and Bird Big Barrel The Old tight finish. $23 (A, US) (375ml) HHHHherb flavours. Mid-weight style Schoolhouse Vineyard Sauternes style, fermented inoffering good, easy drinking. Marlborough Pinot Noir Redwood Pass old French oak barriques and$25 (A, UK, US) 2009 HHH Marlborough Pinot Noir harbouring an advanced level ofNobilo Icon Marlborough Slightly herbal bouquet. 2008 HHH sweetness. Golden and fleshy,Pinot Noir 2009 HHH1/2 Mouthfilling and moderately Supple, vibrantly fruity red, with a rich, oily texture andFragrant, savoury red, ruby-hued. complex, with a delicate ruby-hued, with good body and luscious, botrytised, apricot-likeMedium-bodied and supple, with seasoning of oak and ripe depth of plum and slight herb flavours. $26.50fresh cherry, plum and spice cherry, herb, plum and spice flavours. $18 (A, UK) Konrad Sigrun Noble Twoflavours, showing good ripeness flavours, showing good 2008 (375ml) HHHHand complexity. $24 depth. $38.95 (A, US) Soho Marlborough Pinot Lush, botrytis-enriched blendSaint Clair Marlborough Drylands Marlborough Noir 2009 HHH of riesling (58%) and sauvignonPinot Noir 2009 HHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Ruby-hued, with good flavour blanc (42%), partly barrel-Supple red with considerable Light ruby, with an aromatic depth and some green, vegetal fermented. Light gold, with aelegance. Cherry, plum and bouquet, spicy and slightly notes showing. Lacks a bit of nectareous bouquet and rich, oily,slight herb flavours, showing herbal. Good weight, with some charm, but firmly structured, honey-sweet palate. $24.95 (A)good ripeness, in a light to savoury complexity and a fairly with some concentration. $29.95 Johanneshof Marlboroughmedium-bodied style, enjoyable firm finish. $22 (A, UK, US) Gewurztramineryoung. $25.50 (A, UK, US) Hunter’s Marlborough SWEET WHITES Vendange TardiveThe Crossings Pinot Noir 2008 HHH 2009 (375ml) HHH1/2Marlborough Pinot Noir Mid-weight style with toasty oak 6 TASTED Medium-sweet, late-harvest style2008 HHH1/2 on the nose, slightly herbal fruit 6 AWARDED with concentrated, spicy flavoursRuby-hued, sweet-fruited red characters and some savoury and a floral bouquet. $30with concentration and some complexity. $26.90 (A, UK, US) Very strong flight, provingsavoury notes. Slightly leafy, the region’s ability to producestructured wine with good lush, rich dessert wines fromlength. $26 an array of grapes, including riesling, gewurztraminer and sauvignon blanc.152 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

MICHAEL COOPERPinot gris shone in the tasting, which featured classy ½ Carrick Central Otagowines from Waipara, Marlborough, Martinborough Dry Riesling 2010and Hawke’s Bay. Greystone, a fast-rising star of the Aurum Central Otago Scented, very youthful wine,Wairapa wine scene, has also released a super-stylish Pinot Noir 2009 showing excellent richness,gewurztraminer and one of the region’s most flavour- Scented and supple, very delicacy and potential. Strong,packed sauvignon blancs yet. elegant red with fresh, vibrant vibrant lemon/lime flavours, a fruit flavours, spicy, savoury minerally streak and a finelyPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. complexity and serious depth. poised, dry but not austere finish.Wines available in export markets are shown as Already delicious, but well worth Open 2012+. $21.50 (A, UK)(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). cellaring to 2012+. $32 (A) Carrick Central Otago Babich Irongate Riesling 2010 Aurum Mathilde Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Instantly appealing, medium Reserve Central Otago Merlot Franc 2008 style with strong grapefruit,Brancott Estate Pinot Noir 2009 Elegant, very youthful blend peach and lime flavours, freshF Fairhall Marlborough Powerful, single-vineyard of cabernet sauvignon (66%), and harmonious. Vivacious, withPinot Gris 2010 Cromwell Basin red with a merlot (24%) and cabernet a gentle splash of sweetness,Deliciously mouthfilling, ripely long future. Full-coloured, franc (10%). Deeply coloured, good acid spine and excellentscented and softly textured. substantial, very ripe and with pure blackcurrant, plum intensity. $21.50 (A, UK)Weighty, with a slightly oily rounded, with dense, sweet- and spice flavours, hints ofrichness, it has concentrated, fruit flavours, a hint of licorice, herbs and coffee, and ripe, Coal Pit Tiwha Centralslightly sweet pear, lychee fresh acidity and notable supple tannins. Best drinking Otago Pinot Noir 2009and spice flavours, showing complexity. $45 (A) 2012+. $34.95 (A, UK, US) Very seductive, generous,complexity from partial Babich Irongate Hawke’s single-vineyard wine fromfermentation in oak cuves, Bay Chardonnay 2008 Gibbston grapes. Floral andexcellent harmony and a lasting Powerful, soft and rich wine deeply coloured, with notablyfinish. $34.95 with strong personality. Mealy, concentrated plum, herb and biscuity and creamy, with some olive flavours, gentle tannins andGreystone Waipara Valley Black Barn Vineyards minerally notes and excellent a deliciously rich, smooth finish.Pinot Gris 2010 Reserve Hawke’s Bay depth of peach, fig and spice Drink now or cellar. $42 (A)Beautifully poised, scented and Chardonnay 2009 flavours, showing good Greystone Waipara Valleymouthfilling, with concentrated Commanding, refined wine, complexity and roundness. A Sauvignon Blanc 2010flavours of stone-fruit, lychees hand-picked and barrel- forward vintage, already highly Crisp, punchy, partly barrel-and spices and an oily texture. fermented, showing lovely expressive. $34.95 (A, UK, US) fermented style, intense, tightVibrantly fruity and gently richness, texture and complexity. Brancott Estate and racy. Concentrated, withsweet, with notable depth and Sturdy and rich, with beautifully R Renwick Marlborough an array of grapefruit, melonharmony. $29 (A) ripe, stone-fruit flavours, finely Sauvignon Gris 2010 and lime flavours, showingGreystone Waipara Valley integrated oak and an enticingly Tight, youthful, vibrantly fruity excellent vigour, and a dry, longGewurztraminer 2010 fragrant bouquet. Drink now or wine, made in a dry style. finish. $23 (A, US)Exotically perfumed, full- cellar. $44.90 Mouthfilling and ripely herbal,bodied wine (14.5% alc), very Greystone with grapefruit and limeyouthful but already a delicious Waipara Valley Sand flavours, showing excellentmouthful. Rich lychee, pear, Dollar Pinot Gris 2010 concentration, good acid drive,ginger and spice flavours, Dry style with substantial body and a long, slightly minerallywoven with fresh acidity, and deep, peachy, slightly finish. Best 2012+. $34.95showing lovely delicacy, depth spicy flavours. Fresh, tight and Burnt Spur Martinboroughand harmony. $28 (A) minerally, with lively acidity and Pinot Gris 2010 excellent concentration. Best Rich, medium style from a drinking 2012 onwards. $29 (A) single vineyard, just south of the township. Concentrated, ripe flavours of peaches, pears and spices in a full-bodied, finely textured Alsace style with lovely mouthfeel and immediacy. $23.35 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 153

Sileni The Lodge Hawke’s Aurum Central Otago Carrick Central Otago Fallen Angel MarlboroughBay Chardonnay 2009 Pinot Gris 2009 Pinot Gris 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 2010Elegant, tightly structured, Tightly structured, elegant Fresh, weighty, medium-dry Fleshy, full-flavoured wineyouthful wine, grown in The wine, made in a distinctly style with very good depth, with ripe, tropical fruit flavours,Triangle and at Mangatahi medium style. Mouthfilling, harmony and complexity (30% showing good intensity, a herbaland barrel-fermented. Rich, with fresh acidity and very barrel-fermented). Peach and undercurrent and a crisp, livelycitrusy, peachy flavours, with good depth of citrus and stone- slight apricot flavours, with finish. (From Stonyridge.) $25 (A)finely integrated oak. Mealy, fruit flavours. Youthful, with finely balanced acidity. Already Craggy Rangewith fresh acidity, creamy richness and potential. $25 (A) drinking well. $25.50 (A, UK) Te Kahu 2009notes and excellent cellaring Aurum Central Otago Carrick Josephine Central Delicious, drink-young stylepotential. $32 (UK) Riesling 2008 Otago Riesling 2010 from the Gimblett Gravels,Trinity Hill Tangy and intense, with a Medium-sweet style with low based mostly on merlotBlack Label Hawke’s Bay scented bouquet and lemon/ alcohol (8%) and a Mosel-like (80%). Deeply coloured, withPinot Gris 2009 lime flavours, woven with lightness and vivacity. Crisp, concentrated blackcurrant,Powerful, fleshy blend of pinot steely acidity. Medium-dry style, strong lemon/lime flavours, plum and spice flavours, a hintgris (90%) and viognier (10%), showing some bottle-aged with hints of spice and sherbet of coffee, and good warmth,showing concentrated, ripe complexity and good intensity. and racy acidity. $25.50 (A, UK) stuffing and structure. $25.95stone-fruit flavours and hints Drink now or cellar. $20 (A) Coopers Creek SV Greystoneof ginger, spices and honey. Awa Valley James Gisborne Gruner Veltliner Feather Star WaiparaGenerous and finely textured, Reserve Single Vineyard The Groover 2010 Valley Riesling 2010with a rich, rounded finish. $34 Merlot Malbec 2008 Fleshy, weighty style with ripe, Light, very youthful wine with Youthful, west Auckland red, tropical fruit and spice flavours, strong, lemony, appley, slightlyTW PT’s Verdelho 2010 blended from equal portions dry and rounded. Very good spicy flavours. Low-alcoholHand-harvested, barrel-fermented of merlot and malbec. Sweet- depth and texture, with gentle (8%), medium-sweet style withGisborne wine, made in a dry fruited, with strong, plummy, acidity and strong drink-young good acid spine. Tense, poisedstyle. Sturdy (14.5% alc) and spicy flavours, hints of licorice appeal. $21 wine, best cellared to 2012attractively scented, with fresh, and nuts, firm tannins, and Craggy Range Avery onwards. $26ripe-fruit flavours of lychees and good complexity and cellaring Vineyard Marlborough Main Dividelimes, fresh but not high acidity, potential. $25 Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Pinot Gris 2010a touch of complexity and a finely Bellbird Spring Block Weighty and finely textured, with From Pegasus Bay, this sharplybalanced, long finish. Delicious in Eight Waipara Sauvignon ripe flavours of peach, grapefruit priced wine was grown atits youth. $25 Blanc 2010 and lime, lees-aging complexity Waipara, barrel-fermented and Tight, minerally, complex style, and a dry, rounded finish. Good lees-aged. Fleshy and rich, with hand-picked and fermented food wine. $19.95 (A, UK, US) a late harvest feel, it is gently with indigenous yeasts in old sweet, with concentrated pear,Alexandra Wine Company oak barriques. Slightly ‘funky’ Kirkpatrick Estate lychee and spice flavours, freshalex.gold Pinot Noir 2009 aromas, with a subtle wood Patutahi Reserve acidity and drink-young appeal.Ruby-hued, savoury Central seasoning and good intensity Chardonnay 2009 $19.95 (A, UK, US)Otago red with fresh, lively of grapefruit, lime, spice and Fleshy, smooth Gisborne wine Matahiwi Wairarapaacidity and cherry and nut nettle flavours, lively and with ripe stone-fruit flavours, Pinot Gris 2010flavours showing excellent lingering. $31 slightly buttery and creamy. Sold only in Australia, this is aconcentration and complexity. Up-front style with a toasty oak partly barrel-fermented style,Well worth cellaring. $29.95 Black Barn Vineyards influence and loads of flavour, estate-grown at Opaki, in the Barrel Fermented already drinking well. $28 northern Wairarapa. Floral and Chardonnay 2009 full-bodied, with fresh, pure Powerful, up-front style from Kirkpatrick Estate Patutahi varietal characters of pears, Hawke’s Bay, hand-picked Reserve Malbec 2009 lychees and spices, a touch and barrel-fermented. Weighty Dense, supple Gisborne red of complexity and very good and rich, with ripe stone-fruit with dark, purple-flushed depth. $21 (A) flavours seasoned with toasty colour. Bold, up-front, fruit- Matahiwi Wairarapa oak and a slightly creamy packed style with brambly, Sauvignon Blanc 2010 texture. $33 spicy flavours, fresh and Zingy, very lively wine, partly strong. Still very youthful. $35 estate-grown near Masterton, with other fruit drawn from Martinborough. Partly barrel- fermented, ripely scented, mouthfilling and crisp, with sweet-fruit delights and peachy, limey flavours, fresh, vibrant and strong. $19.95 (A, UK)154 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

recent releasesRed Tussock Marlborough Soho Waiheke Island Sileni The Pacemaker Wrights GisbornePinot Gris 2009 Rosé 2010 Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Gewurztraminer 2010Full-bodied and softly textured, Delicious in its youth, this is a Franc 2009 Grown in the Ormond Valleywith strong, ripe stone-fruit, buoyantly fruity rosé, pink/pale Stylish, very youthful, single- and partly barrel-fermented, thispear and spice flavours and a red, with mouthfilling body and vineyard red, grown close richly perfumed wine has a spicy,dryish finish. Slightly oily, with vibrant berry and plum flavours, to the winery at Bridge Pa. exotic bouquet. Mouthfilling andexcellent varietal definition, showing very good ripeness Full-coloured, with fresh, dry, it has concentrated, peachy,freshness and depth. $22.99 and depth. $21.95 strong blackcurrant, plum and gingery flavours, showingTW Buxom Red Malbec Terrace Edge Waipara spice flavours, a hint of coffee excellent complexity and depth.Merlot 2007 Riesling 2010 and obvious potential. Best Drink now or cellar. $25Dark, gutsy Gisborne blend Fleshy, full-bodied wine, made drinking 2012+. $32 Wrights Reserve Gisborneof malbec (63%) and merlot in a medium-dry style. Fresh, Walnut Block Barrel Chardonnay 2010(37%), matured for over a year in ripe passionfruit and peach Fermented Marlborough From an Ormond Valley siteAmerican oak barriques. Warm flavours, with a hint of honey, Sauvignon Blanc 2007 under conversion to organic,and generous, with plummy, good concentration and strong Fleshy, complex style, still very this softly mouthfilling winespicy, slightly nutty flavours, firm drink-young appeal. $18 (A) lively but probably nearing its shows good concentrationtannins, and loads of personality. Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay peak. Mouthfilling and rounded, of ripe stone-fruit flavours,Drink now or cellar. $25 Arneis 2009 with an array of melon, fig, oak complexity and a slightly Estate-grown in the Gimblett spice and nut flavours, showing buttery, smooth finish. Already Gravels and fermented in good ripeness and richness, drinking well, it’s generous, tanks and old barrels, this finely balanced acidity and a rich, ripe and rounded. $35 is a dry style with clear-cut long, dry finish. $26.95 (A) varietal characteristics. Freshly ½ aromatic and mouthfilling, with Wild Rock Elevation ripe pineapple, herb and spice Marlborough Sauvignon Alexandra Wine Company flavours, a hint of biscuity, nutty Blanc 2010 alex.gold Pinot Gris 2010 oak and a tight, crisp finish. $19 Distinctive blend including Grown in Central Otago and Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay minor portions of viognier and fermented in seasoned oak Montepulciano 2010 riesling. Mouthfilling, very barrels, this creamy-textured Estate-grown in the Gimblett fresh and vibrant, with good wine has citrus and stone- Gravels, this is a full-coloured, mouthfeel and texture, a slightly fruit flavours, spicy and purple-flushed red, vibrantly minerally streak and a basket of nutty, showing considerable fruity and smooth. It has strong, fruit flavours. Delicious from the complexity. $25 vibrant berry, plum and spice start. $18.95 (UK, US) Aurum Blanc de Blancs NV flavours, showing some savoury Fresh, lively, Central Otago complexity, gentle tannins and wine, based on chardonnay and loads of drink-young charm. $19 disgorged after two years on its yeast lees. Gently yeasty, moderately complex style showing very good vivacity, delicacy and depth. $36Stockists of an extensive range of Italian & Spanish beveragesSpecialty Liquor Merchants La Vigna’s Recommendations from left to right Mas Pere Cava, Condes de Albarei Albarino 10, Marques de Velilla Joven 09, Giribaldi Barolo 04,302 Walcott Street, Mt. Lawley W.A. 6050 Phone: 9271 1179 Fax: 9370 3304 Valle Reale Vigne Nuove Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo 09, Ca Montini Pinot Grigio 09 Email: [email protected] March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 155

MICHAEL COOPERArrow Junction Central Fallen Angel Marlborough Martinborough Vineyard Trinity Hill Hawke’s BayOtago Pinot Gris 2009 Riesling 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 2010 The Trinity 2008Fleshy, with ripe stone-fruit and Steely, tightly structured Partly barrel-fermented style with Merlot (41%) is the principalspice flavours, a slightly creamy wine with a distinct splash of moderately concentrated, ripe, variety in this Gimblett Gravelstexture and fully dry finish. sweetness. Strong, lemony, tropical fruit flavours, showing red, blended with cabernetDrinking well now. $23.99 appley flavours, showing very considerable complexity. franc, cabernet sauvignon,Bellbird Spring good freshness, delicacy and Mouthfilling and smooth, with syrah and malbec. Made forBlock Eight Waipara depth. Needs time. $25 (A) good drinkability. $25.75 easy drinking, it is full-coloured,Pinot Noir 2009 Greystone Waipara Valley Matahiwi Wairarapa mouthfilling, vibrantly fruityForward in its appeal, this Pinot Noir 2009 Pinot Noir 2009 and supple, with a gentle oakruby-hued red has moderately Deeply coloured and sturdy Fresh, lively style, matured in a influence. $19rich strawberry, plum and spice (14.5%/alc), with highly mix of tanks and barrels. Ruby- TW CV Chardonnayflavours, showing some savoury concentrated, cherry/plum hued, mouthfilling and supple, Viognier 2009complexity, good harmony and flavours and a distinct herbal with good depth of cherry, Drinking well now, thisa smooth finish. $31 (UK) streak. Vibrantly fruity, fresh herb and spice flavours and Gisborne blend of chardonnayBellbird Spring and smooth, with some some savoury notes adding (70%) and viognier (30%) isHome Block Waipara cellaring potential. $38 (A, US) complexity. Drink now or cellar. fresh and vibrantly fruity, aPinot Gris 2010 Greystone Waipara Valley $25.60 (A, UK) mouthfilling dry wine withDistinctive, tight and youthful Pinot Noir Rosé 2010 Morton Estate White Label peachy, smooth flavours,wine, hand-picked and barrel- Floral, berryish scents. Marlborough Sauvignon showing very good depth. $20fermented with indigenous Refreshing, with buoyant, fruity, Blanc 2010 TW Summer CV 2010yeasts. Full-bodied, with fresh slightly spicy flavours, lively If you like strongly herbaceous Enjoyable young, this Gisbornepear and spice flavours, a sliver of acidity and a well-rounded finish. sauvignon blanc, try this. Grown blend of 50% chardonnay andsweetness and some complexity. Lots of drink-young appeal. $21 in the upper Awatere and lower 50% viognier was handledNeeds time; open 2012+. $31 Kirkpatrick Estate Wairau valleys, it has ‘tomato without oak. Mouthfilling andCarrick Central Otago Patutahi Gisborne Wild stalk’ aromas, fresh and strong, vibrantly fruity, it is fleshy, withSauvignon Blanc 2010 Rosé 2009 and punchy, green capsicum- ripe stone-fruit flavours, a hintPunchy and crisp, with very good Softly seductive blend of like flavours, woven with of spice, very good depth and adepth of fresh, youthful melon/ merlot (70%) and malbec, appetising acidity. $18 (A, UK) finely balanced finish. $22lime flavours, gently seasoned enjoyable now. Pink/slight Quail Lane Hawke’s Bay Wild Rock The Infamouswith oak (30% barrel-fermented). orange, with good body, The Cabernets 2008 Goose MarlboroughAromatic and dry, with some buoyant strawberry and spice A good buy. A blend of cabernet Sauvignon Blanc 2010complexity. $20.50 (A, UK) flavours, showing a touch franc (50%), cabernet sauvignon, Fresh, vibrant and punchy, withCarrick Unravelled Central of complexity, and a slightly merlot and malbec, grown crisp, dry melon/lime flavours,Otago Pinot Noir 2009 creamy texture. $20 in The Triangle, it is deeply showing good vigour andVery attractive drink-young Kirkpatrick Estate coloured, fleshy and supple, with depth. $19.95 (A)style with some savoury, spicy Patutahi Late Harvest generous, spicy, slightly nuttycomplexity. Mouthfilling and Chardonnay 2007 (375ml) flavours and gentle tannins. smooth, with satisfying depth Barrel-aged Gisborne wine Drink now or cellar. $16.95of ripe cherry/plum flavours, with ripe, peachy flavours, Terrace Edge Waipara Arrow Junction Centralgentle tannins and good sweet and concentrated. A Pinot Noir 2009 Otago Pinot Noir 2008harmony. $24.50 (A, UK) slight whiff of VA may bother Attractively floral, ruby-hued Moderately concentrated, some, but the wine is still fresh red with mouthfilling body and ruby-hued red with ripe and youthful, with an oily, rich vibrant cherry, plum and spice cherry, plum and herb flavours palate. $25 flavours, fresh, ripe and supple. and a very smooth finish. Main Divide Merlot Moderately complex style, Drink now-2011. $36.99 Cabernet 2008 priced right. Best drinking mid- Full-coloured blend of 2011+. $24.50 (A) Marlborough merlot (85%), Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay cabernet sauvignon (10%) Pinot Gris 2009 and malbec (5%), barrel-aged Still unfolding, this is a full- for two years. Plummy, ripe, bodied blend of pinot gris slightly spicy and smooth, with (86%) and viognier (14%). a subtle oak influence and Dryish, and vibrantly fruity, with gentle tannins. Finely textured, very good depth of ripe peach, with good drinkability. $19.95 pear and slight spice flavours and a well-rounded finish. $19156 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

recent releasesKirkpatrick Estate Southern Cross Hawke’sMerlot 2009 Bay Chardonnay 2008Full-coloured Gisborne red, Drinking well now, this full-American oak-aged. Very bodied wine has fresh acidity,good depth of blackcurrant very satisfying depth ofand slight herb flavours, grapefruit and peach flavoursseasoned with sweet oak, and a slightly buttery, creamysome savoury complexity and finish. (From Morton Estate.) $17a fairly firm finish. $24 Southern Cross Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2009 Sturdy, dryish style with fresh, ripe flavours of citrus fruits and peaches and a smooth, gently spicy finish. (From Morton Estate.) $17 Sprig Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 From Bouldevines, this generous, smooth wine has plenty of ripely herbaceous flavour, fresh and forward. Good value at $14.50.Bloody Bay Marlborough Tinpot Hut MarlboroughPinot Gris 2009 Gruner Veltliner 2010Enjoyable now, this mouthfilling, Fresh and full-bodied, dryish wineslightly honeyed wine has with ripe, citrusy, slightly peachyplenty of fresh, peachy, spicy, and spicy flavours, balancedslightly gingery flavour and an acidity and an easy-drinkingoff-dry finish. $18.99 appeal. One of New Zealand’sMartinborough first examples of the popularVineyard Te Tera Austrian variety. $25 (A, UK)Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Tinpot Hut MarlboroughFresh, fruity and smooth, with Pinot Noir 2009mouthfilling body, very ripe, Fresh, medium-bodiedpassionfruit-like flavours and a style with a light ruby huewell-rounded finish. $20.95 and cherry, plum and spice flavours, showing moderate concentration. Lively, youthful wine, offering best drinking mid-2011+. $28 (A, UK)Quail Lane Hawke’s Bay TW EstateCabernet Sauvignon 2008 Chardonnay 2010Deeply coloured single-vineyard Grown in Gisborne, thiswine from The Triangle, French unoaked style has ripe, peachy,oak-matured. Fleshy, plummy citrusy flavours, enjoyably fresh,and slightly spicy, it’s smooth vibrant, dry and crisp. $17and easy-drinking, enjoyable TW Innocentnow. Good value at $16.95. Chardonnay 2010 Gisborne wine “untouched by oak”. Fresh, crisp, citrusy and lively, it’s not a complex style, but a good example of fruit- driven chardonnay. $20Red Tussock Central TW M ’n M 2008Otago Pinot Noir 2009 Very easy-drinking GisborneFloral and supple, ruby-hued blend of merlot (70%) andred with good depth of fresh malbec (30%), matured incherry/plum flavours, with French and American oaksavoury notes adding a touch barriques. Sweet oak aromas,of complexity and ripe, smooth with ripe plum and spicetannins. $27 flavours, a hint of coconut and a smooth finish. $20 March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 157

a wine cabinet to suit your lifestyleWine & Food in Spain For CT Series CabinetsIndependent Travellers Unbeatable value for glass-door wine cabinets Peltier Cabinets from Long-life, no vibration, Peltier cooling 32 to 860 WineVac Cabinets bottles Underbench units with integrated wine preservation system Details of our range and pricing are available online KITCHENER www.kitchenerwinecabinets.com WINE CABINETS 03 9459 2999 MORE THAN PREMIUM WINE STORAGE Wine your way from ocean to ocean Winestate Magazine in conjunction with the Indian Pacific are going on tour this September. Keep your diary free for the wine appreciation journey of a lifetime. Departing from Sydney as you travel in style, enjoy fine wines, delicious food and unforgettable scenery over three spectacular days. Look for the next issue for details on how to secure your place on this transcontinental journey to test the palate. MARKETING DESIGN ADVERTISING MARKETING DESIGN ADVERTISING158 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

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contact detailsFor a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.auBAROSSA & EDEN VALLEY CHARDONNAY & BLENDS Windows Margaret River Griffith Park Pty Ltd Ph: (08) 9755 2719 Ph: +44 (0) 1582 469930Bethany Wines Balgownie Estate E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8563 2086 Ph: (03) 5449 6222 Web: www.windowsestate.com Web: www.griffithpark.co.ukE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.bethany.com.au Web: www.balgownieestate.com Wirra Wirra Vineyards Kimbarra Wines Ph: (08) 8323 8414 Ph: (03) 5352 2238Cimicky Wines Broomstick Estate E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8524 4025 Ph: 0417 717 714 Web: www.wirra.com.au Web: www.kimbarrawines.com.auE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.cimickywines.com.au Web: www.broomstick.com.au ITALIAN & SPANISH Peos Estate Ph: (08) 9772 1378Fox Gordon Bunnamagoo Estate Wines Dromana Estate E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8388 7155 Ph: (02) 6373 3046 Ph: (03) 5974 3899 Web: www.peosestate.com.auE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: cellardoor@ E-mail: [email protected]: www.foxgordon.com.au bunnamagoowines.com.au Web: www.dromanaestate.com.au Pepperwood Vineyard Estate Web: www.bunnamagoowines.com.au Ph: (08) 9727 2027G. Patritti & Co Pty Ltd Enoteca Sileno E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8296 8261 Churchview Estate Ph: (03) 9389 7002 Web: www.pepperwoodwines.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9755 7200 E-mail: [email protected]: www.patritti.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.enoteca.com.au Preston Peak Web: www.churchview.com.au Ph: (07) 4630 9499God’s Hill Wines/Scalzi Wines Pty Ltd Euro Concepts Sydney E-mail: [email protected]: 0412 836 004 Grant Burge Ph: 1300 104 060 Web: www.prestonpeak.comE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8563 7622 E-mail: [email protected]: www.godshillwines.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.euroconceptssydney.com.au Quilty Wines/Landmark Web: www.grantburgewines.com.au Ph: 0419 936 233Heggies Vineyard Fermoy Estate E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8565 3203 Haselgrove Wines Ph: (08) 9755 6285 Web: www.quiltywines.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8323 8706 E-mail: [email protected]: www.heggiesvineyard.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.fermoy.com.au Reillys Wines Web: www.haselgrove.com.au Ph: (08) 8376 9563Hahn Barossa Vineyards The Spanish Acquisition E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8562 3002 Heydon Estate Margaret River Ph: (03) 9495 6373 Web: www.reillyswines.comE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9755 6995 E-mail: [email protected]: www.hahnbarossa.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.thespanishacquisition.com Rosedale Wines Pty Ltd Web: www.heydonestate.com.au Ph: (08) 8330 3850Rosenvale Wines Glandore Estate E-mail: [email protected]: 0407 390 788 Moppity Vineyards Ph: (02) 4998 7140 Web: www.rosedalewines.com.auE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 6382 6222 E-mail: [email protected]: www.rosenvale.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.glandorewines.com Rowley Estate Web: www.moppity.com.au Ph: (03) 9390 1212Jacob’s Creek/Orlando Wines Maximus Wines Australia E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8521 3000 (Visitor Centre) Negociants Australia Ph: (08) 8323 8777E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8561 3200 E-mail: [email protected] Saracen EstatesWeb: www.jacobscreek.com Web: www.negociantsaustralia.com; Web: Ph: (08) 9755 6099 www.redbankwines.com www.maximuswinesaustralia.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Lehmann Wines Limited Web: www.saracenestates.com.auPh: (08) 8563 2500 Noonji Estate MyattsField VineyardE-mail: malcolm.stopp@ Ph: 0413 996 625 Ph: (08) 9293 5567 Stuart Wines Co Pty Ltdpeterlehmannwines.com E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 5432 9499Web: www.peterlehmannwines.com.au Web: www.noonji.com.au Web: www.myattsfield.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.stuartwinesco.com.auRileys of Eden Valley Palmer Wines Negociants AustraliaPh: (08) 8564 1029 Ph: (08) 9756 7388 Ph: (08) 8561 3200 Terramore Wines/Cooablah EstateE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.negociantsaustralia.com; Ph: 0427 809 518Web: www.rileysofedenvalley.com.au Web: www.palmerwines.com www.redbankwines.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.terramorewines.com.auThorn-Clarke Wines Peos Estate Tertini WinesPh: (08) 8564 3036 Ph: (08) 9772 1378 Ph: (02) 4878 5213 Tertini WinesE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 4878 5213Web: www.thornclarkewines.com Web: www.peosestate.com.au Web: www.tertiniwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.tertiniwines.com.auTscharke Wines/Glaymond Poole’s Rock/Cockfighter’s Ghost Thorn-Clarke WinesPh: (08) 8562 1044 Ph: (02) 9563 2500 Ph: (08) 8564 3036 Thompson EstateE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9755 6406Web: www.tscharke.com.au Web: www.poolesrock.com.au Web: www.thornclarkewines.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.thompsonestate.comYalumba & Hill Smith Family Vineyards Saint Clair Family Vineyards NEW RELEASESPh: +61 8 8561 3562 Ph: +64 3 578 8695 Verdun Park WinesE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Aldi Stores Ph: (08) 8388 7357Web: www.yalumba.com Web: www.saintclair.co.nz Ph: (03) 8369 3119 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.verdunparkwines.com.auCENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA Seville Estate Web: www.aldi.com.au Ph: (03) 5964 2622 Warburn EstateMcPherson Wines E-mail: [email protected] Australian Vintage Limited/McGuigan Ph: (02) 6963 8300Ph: (03) 9832 1700 Web: www.sevilleestate.com.au Ph: (08) 8524 0200 E-mail: [email protected]: louise_scanlan@ E-mail: atrescowthick@ Web: www.warburnestate.com.aumcphersonwines.com.au Sirromet Wines australianvintage.com.auWeb: www.mcphersonwines.com Ph: (07) 3822 0648 Web: www.avl.com.au Wyndham Estate /Orlando Wines E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 4938 3444 (cellar door)Montara Winery Web: www.sirromet.com Brokenwood E-mail: [email protected]: (03) 5352 3868 Ph: (02) 4998 7559 Web: www.wyndhamestate.com.auE-mail: [email protected] The Willow Lane Vineyard E-mail: [email protected]: www.montara.com.au Ph: (02) 6373 3131 Web: www.brokenwood.com.au TOP 40 E-mail: [email protected] Wines Co Pty Ltd Web: www.thewillowlane.com.au Flametree Wines Aldi StoresPh: (03) 5432 9499 Ph: (08) 9756 8577 Ph: (03) 8369 3119E-mail: [email protected] Warner Glen Estate Pty Ltd/Frog Belly E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.stuartwinesco.com.au Ph: (08) 9337 4601 Web: www.flametreewines.com Web: www.aldi.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Vineyards Web: www.warnerglenestate.com.au Grant Burge Anvers WinesPh: (03) 5459 7915 Ph: (08) 8563 7622 Ph: (08) 8323 9603E-mail: [email protected] Westcape Asset E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.taltarni.com.au Ph: 0401 033 840 Web: www.grantburgewines.com.au Web: www.anvers.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.clockworkwines.com.au160 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

contact detailsBalgownie Estate MARLBOROUGH, NZ STAY IN THEPh: (03) 5449 6222 COGNAC REGIONE-mail: [email protected] Constellation Wines New ZealandWeb: www.balgownieestate.com.au Ph: +64 9 412 4805 TOM HARDY’S E-mail: [email protected] “LOCK KEEPER’S COTTAGE”Bimbadgen Estate Web: www.cwines.comPh: (02) 4998 4600 IN JARNAC RIGHTE-mail: [email protected] Giesen Wines New Zealand OPPOSITE COURVOISIERWeb: www.bimbadgen.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.giesen.co.nz WEEKLY HOLIDAY RENTALSBurk Salter Wines VERY REASONABLE RATESPh: (08) 8540 5023 Invivo WinesE-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 21 852 068 CONTACT TOM HARDYWeb: www.burksalterwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] TEL: 0411 191 043 Web: www.invivowines.comCrestview P/L (T/A Step Road) www.picwine.com.au click onPh: (08) 8300 0900 Johanneshof Cellars ‘RETREATS’E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 3 573 7035Web: www.steprd.com E-mail: [email protected] EMAIL: [email protected] Web: www.johanneshof.co.nzDe Bortoli WineryPh: (02) 6966 0100 Lawson’s Dry HillsE-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 3 578 7674Web: www.debortoli.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nzG. Patritti & Co Pty LtdPh: (08) 8296 8261 Riverby EstateE-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 2 1172 4981Web: www.patritti.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.riverbyestate.comMorambro Creek Wines/Jip Jip Rocks/Mt Monster Saint Clair Family VineyardsPh: (08) 8723 1065 Ph: +64 3 578 8695E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.morambrocreek.com.au; Web: www.saintclair.co.nzwww.mtmonster.com.au;www.jipjiprocks.com.au Spy Valley Wines Ph: +64 3 572 9840Patrick of Coonawarra E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8737 3687 Web: www.spyvalleywine.co.nzE-mail: [email protected]: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Vavasour Wines Ltd E-mail: [email protected] Wines Web: www.vavasour.com;Ph: (08) 9757 2374 www.cliffordbay.co.nzE-mail: [email protected]: www.preveliwines.com.au West Brook Winery Ph: +64 9 411 9924Queens Pinch Vineyard E-mail: [email protected]: (02) 6373 3504 Web: www.westbrook.co.nzE-mail: [email protected]: www.queenspinch.com Yealands Estate Wines Ltd Ph: +64 3 575 7618Reillys Wines E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8376 9563 Web: www.yealands.co.nzE-mail: [email protected]: www.reillyswines.com.au MICHAEL COOPER’S RECENT RELEASESRosedale Wines Pty LtdPh: (08) 8330 3850 Black Barn VineyardsE-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 6 877 7985Web: www.rosedalewines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.blackbarn.comSerafino WinesPh: (08) 8323 0157 Coal Pit VineyardE-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 0272 691 389Web: www.serafinowines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Federal GeoPh: (08) 8232 7388 Ph: +64 9 578 2616E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.shingleback.com.au Web: www.federalgeo.co.nzSidewood Estate Pty Ltd/ Sileni EstateAshwood Estate Ph: +64 6 879 8768Ph: (08) 8388 7084 E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.sileni.co.nzWeb: www.sidewood.com.au Kirkpatrick EstateWicks Estate Wines Ph: +64 6 862 7722Ph: (08) 8389 9100 E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.kew.co.nzWeb: www.wicksestate.com.au TW WinesWinter Creek Wines Ph: +64 2 1222 0135Ph: (08) 8524 6382 E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected]: www.wintercreekwine.com.au Wild Rock Wine Company Ph: +64 6 833 7785Yelland & Papps E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8562 3510 Web: www.wildrockwines.co.nzE-mail: [email protected]: www.yellandandpapps.com March/April 2011 W I N E S TAT E 161

aftertasteELISABETH KINGTen-gallon wines from the Lone Star StateDEEP in the heart of Texas there’s a heck is Cattle Country - Eat Beef, You his efforts, and there are several statuesof a lot of wine being made these days. Bastards” - there are plenty of folks dedicated to the hero of the hour in France.The Hill Country of the Lone Star State who eat chicken and pasta sorecently topped the list of America’s Top the local winegrowers suggested In 1909, Munson wrote Foundations of10 Hidden-Gem Wine regions from Away. chardonnay and riesling for those American Grape Culture, a handbook for UScom, a leading US online trip planner. And, keen on marrying things up in a grapegrowers. It was a false dawn, though.although the Texan wine industry admits less red-blooded fashion. Ten years later, Prohibition shut down thethat it’s only taken a few gunslinger’s steps fledgling industry. Wineries did reopen indown Main Street on the road to entering The Texas Department of Texas following the repeal of the so-calledthe world business, it has made - well - Agriculture (TDA) has been a major Noble Experiment but it wasn’t until theTexas-sized strides into the future. force behind the promotion of local 1970s that pioneering wineries such as bottlings. Before the Dallas Cowboys took Llano Estacado and Fall Creek pioneered There’s plenty to build on, too. Texas is on the New York Giants last October, the the modern industry. Forget cheap gagsalready the fifth largest wine-producing TDA corralled 30 wine experts for the 2010 such as the biggest thing to come out ofstate in the US, with nine million acres Grape & Gridiron Classic blind tasting. The west Texas was Roy Orbison. Most Texan-yielding 8900 tons of grapes in 2010 - an Texan wines, including McPherson’s Cellars grown grapes end up in $20-plus bottlingsincrease of 44 per cent over 2009. Unlike Rose of Syrah 2009, won the competition because the state lacks the big plantings ofthe Napa Valley, where vineyards are eight to three. “While the Cowboys and higher-yield varietals for lower-priced wines.planted cheek-by-jowl, the 280 commercial Giants clashed on the gridiron, wine loversvineyards in Texas are planted some toasted glasses of award-winning wines This upmarket positioning has also madedistance apart, often next to cotton, peanut from two of America’s biggest and best Texas one of the fastest-growing wineand wheat fields. Leading wineries such as wine-producing states,” said the TDA’s tourism destinations in the US, pullingthe 35-year-old Llano Estacado Winery in deputy commissioner, Drew DeBerry. in close to one million visitors a year. It’sLubbock, which boasts two wines served “Texas and New York wines have won home to eight official wine trails (checkat the White House when the Texas-based international acclaim, and this was a unique them out on www.gotexan.org) from theBush family were in office, is the state’s opportunity to showcase vintages for both (what else?) Munson Trail to the Texaslargest premium winery and buys in a lot sides in the spirit of friendly competition.” Hill Country Wine Trail. Winelovers canof grapes, too. One third are from Texas Sounds like an idea worth copying. even experience a tasting at the world’sgrowers and the remaining 65 per cent from only airport-based winery - La Bodega atCalifornia’s Napa Valley and Central Coast Don’t be misled, though. Today’s booming Dallas-Fort Worth Airport.regions, Washington State and New Mexico. wine industry, contributing $US1.35 billion a year to the state coffers and employing And that’s not the only oddity you will With conditions similar to those in many 9000 people, is a far cry from the humble discover when you update your knowledge ofparts of Australia, the roll call of Texan grapes beginnings of Texan wines. The first grapes Texan wines. The Circle S Vineyard in Sugaris mighty familiar - cabernet sauvignon, were planted by Spanish monks near El Land, close to Houston, has made a bigchardonnay, chenin blanc, merlot, sauvignon Paso in the 1860s, and just over 20 years name for its jalapeno pepper wine. “Perfectblanc, riesling, sangiovese, shiraz and later Frank Qualia founded the Val Verde for those cold winter evenings” advises theviognier. Red wines are thought to be such winery in Del Rio, the oldest bonded winery website. Y’all might not need thata speciality that the Texas Wine & Grape winery still in operation in Texas today. blazing fire to get up close and personal.Growers Association inaugurated a Texas There is a ‘Remember the Alamo’ momentWines For Valentine’s promotion last year. of which most people remain unaware,Steak is still big in many restaurants in the however. Thomas Volney Munson, a Texasstate and lovers were advised to quaff a viticulturist, developed a locally growncabernet, malbec or merlot with their T-bones. resistant rootstock which allowed FrenchShiraz and tempranillo got the official nod to vineyards to replant after the phylloxeraaccompany lamb and barbecued pork. outbreak. In 1888, the French governmentAnd although Texas gave birth to those awarded Munson the Legion d’Honneursigns you also see in Queensland - “This Chevalier du Merite Agricole award forn e x t i s s u e : Lots of variety here, with Adelaide Hills, Tasmania, Central & Western NSW, WA and Wairarapa & Nelson (NZ) reviewed. Plus, welcome in the cooler weather with lovely sweet whites, fortifieds and winter beers.162 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2011

by Walter Clappiso7 Shiraz/Cabernet/MerlotTony Love ~ 4 starsBiodynamic wine...tastes invigorating“Long-time vales winemaker Walter Clappis, isan avid biodynamic practitioner and delivers abright and shiny example of what can beachieved through traditional winemaking.Lovely lifted fruit, juicy red berries supremelybalanced, softly structured for lively andinvigorating drinking.”VALUE: BrilliantDistributorsSA: Festival City Wines - 08 8268 8066QLD: AIWW - 0411 561 643NSW: AIWW - 0415 415 274NT: Oz North Food and Liquor - 08 8981 3386Vic: Festival City Wine and Spirit - 03 9361 1681ACT: Haymen Fine Spirits - 0421 937 856WA: Haymen Fine Spirits - 0417 227 032hedonistwines.com.auph: +61 8 8323 8818

The originalMarlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Brancott Vineyard is where we planted As a tribute and to honour our roots, Montana Marlborough’s first Sauvignon Blanc vines, wines from vineyards throughout Newnow our most famous varietal and the world’s Zealand will be known as Brancott Estate™. favourite New Zealand wine style.www.brancottestate.comENJOY BRANCOTT ESTATE WINES RESPONSIBLY