Winestate Magazine July August 2017

JULY/AUGUST 2017 WINESTATE VOL 40 ISSUE 4 CABERNET & BORDEAUX ORGANIC WINES McLAREN VALE KANGAROO ISLAND CLARE VALLEY TASMANIA SOUTH ISLAND (NZ) THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE XIICABERNET & BORDEAUX CHALLENGE FEATURING Premier Grand Cru’ Château Lafite Rothschild Château Latour Château Haut-Brion SleWepAKiInNGgA Nature's Way Beauty The Roots of Organic & Biodynamic ViticulturePRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 July/August 2017 ISLAND IN Vol 40 Issue 4 THE SUN $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 Kangaroo Island's US $17.99 GBP £10.95 wines shine EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus Clare Valley • McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu • Tasmania Organic Wines • Cabernet & Bordeaux Varietals • South Island (NZ)

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NO.284 JULY/AUGUST 2017Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Editor Jane Skilton MW E: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E: [email protected] Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E: [email protected] Coordinator E: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins,Dan TrauckiVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike ZekulichQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Jane Skilton MW, Emma JenkinsNational Travel Winsor DobbinEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastinHONG KONG Lucy JenkinsADVERTISING SALESAustralia & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublishingPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] South WalesPearman MediaPhone: (02) 9929 3966QueenslandJaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] ZealandDebbie Bowman – McKay & BowmanPhone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] Philippe Marquezy - Espace QuadriPhone: + 33 170 644 700 Fax: + 33 607 780 466Web: www.espacequadri.comEmail: [email protected] Yorke Peninsula’sGordon and Gotch Australia P/L award winningInternational vineyardDAI RubiconWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright2017byWINESTATEPUBLISHINGPTYLTD.Thispublicationmaynot,inwholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisherassumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 5

contentsJULY/AUGUST 2017FEATURES 34 WAKING A SLEEPING BEAUTY 3826 ORGANICALLY ORGANIC With a long and successful history in For David Bruer the decision to “go 106 TRADE TALKS the northern hemisphere, cabernet Kangaroo Island’s wine industry organic” was easy, writes Dan Traucki. franc’s Australian experience has Passionate about all things “green,” been one of a “fringe dweller,” has had its share of ups and downs Bruer was among the first organic reports Denis Gastin. First planted since the first commercial vines grape growers more than 20 years in Australia in the mid-1800s, the were planted in the early 1970s, but ago and today the success of his variety accounts for less than 1 there’s been a recent dramatic surge Temple Bruer label is a beacon for per cent of the national vineyard, in interest and demand for island others in the industry. Bruer says the but that’s beginning to change. A wines. Kangaroo Island Trading flavours in one of his finished bottles of new appreciation of the grape and Company’s Caj Amadio is behind wine is dependent on obtaining more its qualities as a single varietal is much of the growing interest and at natural flavours from his vineyards. generating a growing interest. Winestate’s first regional judging the company’s 2015 shiraz claimed top 30 38 ISLAND IN THE SUN spot in the Kangaroo Island Wine of For too long Kangaroo Island’s the Year Awards.30 NATURE’S WAY At the heart of sustainable viticulture farmers have largely been ignored R E G U L A R S by mainlanders, writes Dan Traucki. 10 Briefs lie organic and biodynamic grape But a growing demand for the production, writes Troy Kalleske. island’s high-end food and wine has 16 NZ Briefs with Emma Jenkins MW Practitioners aim to keep their soils producers basking in a deserved 18 European Report with Sally Easton MW healthy which in turn leads to healthy reputation as a destination for fine 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley vines, quality produce and great fare. Its blossoming wine industry 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King wines. He argues that wine produced is a stand-out that is supported by 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankel this way is simply wine the way brewers and spirit distillers. 50 Grapevine natured intended it to be. 58 Wine Words 60 Wine Investment & Collecting 64 What’s it Worth? 90 Subscription Form 146 Aftertaste W I N E TAST I N G S 44 68 Clare Valley & Surrounding Regions 72 Merlot & Other Bordeaux Varietals 44 THE FRENCH EVOLUTION 76 Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends There is a quiet revolution underway 94 McLaren Vale 104 Langhorne Creek & Fleurieu in the French wine industry that 108 Kangaroo Island promises to deliver greater creativity 114 Tasmania and diversity, reports Dan Traucki. 122 South Island (Nelson & Canterbury) The rigid and sometimes archaic 125 Jane Skilton’s Recent Releases regulations that have governed the industry are being eased in a bid 128 Organic Wines, New Releases and to attract a new generation of wine Best Value Buys under $20. lovers. Among those changes is the Vin de France label which allows the For a complete list of what we tasted for this classic Aussie blend of cabernet issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au and shiraz. Winestate Magazine Issue Number 284 July/August 2017 Cover photograph Svitlana Tereshchenko6 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

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editorialTHIS IS AN INTERESTING issue that features some new beginnings and somedeveloping trends.First, we have for your enjoyment our annual NASAA Organic wine judging of over 100 certifiedorganic or biodynamic wines. This was judged in our usual way involving three industry judgesjudging the wines blind, without fear or favour, as it should be. As much as we love the idea ofwines grown and made without chemicals or questionable additives, they also need to survivein the marketplace as good wines. Troy Kalleske, of Kalleske wines, a prominent organicspokesperson shares his explanation of what organics is all about and explains the differencewith biodynamics. We then also acknowledge the winner of the annual NASAA Best OrganicAustralian Wine of the Year Trophy as judged by our Winestate panel with a story on the winner.Next comes a revelation of what is happening on the next “King Island.” The local authorities maynot thank me for saying so but Kangaroo Island should have been in the forefront of mind just as theaforementioned island gained notoriety while Kangaroo Island slumbered. Fortunately we now have an active local committee involvement, somegreat food and wine attractions have evolved in the past few years and there are still all the natural attractions that the island is known for. I amalso delighted that the region has chosen Winestate as its media partner to conduct its annual regional wine show. Many people will be amazedthat more than 60 wines are produced from the island and the potential for future acknowledgement is enormous. Regular Winestate contributorDan Traucki travels to the island to see what the fuss is about and reports back to us plus adds a nice piece on the island wine trophy winner.Dan has also found himself busy with an advertorial we produced explaining the new direction of the French wine industry in tryingto simplify its massively complex and archaic wine regulation system that holds back their industry, to experiment and deliver moreapproachable wines that people can understand. There is a salute to Australia and the new world in this with the classic Aussie blend ofcabernet and shiraz being allowed under the Appellation Vin de France label. Even the venerable Chateau Lafite has generated the Baronde Rothschild Lafite “Aussieres” varietally labelled brand, selling Vin de Pays appellated wines.There is some excellent reading in this issue and I haven’t even discussed the great wine judgings we have featured. Prominent among theseis the annual Cabernet & Blends judging with some yardstick Bordeaux First Growths included. As an addendum we also judged separatelythe merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec varietals, often described as “bordeaux blend varietals” as some or all are often used inBordeaux-produced wines. And to make sure you are still paying attention our Asian wine Editor, Denis Gastin, writes on cabernet franc, one ofhis favourite wines, and puts them into perspective as he does so well. Lots to choose from here along with our prominent New Releases judging.For our regional judgings we have for you a massive array of riches from the “mid-palate” of Australia, rich flavoursome wines of McLarenVale, bordered by their cool-climate siblings of Langhorne Creek and Southern Fleurieu. Then further north is the “boutique” region of the ClareValley where juicy red berry flavours abound and arguably some of Australia’s finest rieslings. For cool-climate wine lovers Tasmania offers theultimate example of lean and tight flavours, and we thank the Vantage Group and gasworks who helped us with the judging.For our New Zealand feature judging we welcome our new New Zealand Editor, Jane Skilton MW, along with fellow judge and our NewZealand “shorts” writer Emma Jenkins MW. Here they judged the South Island wines of Canterbury, Otago and Nelson (Marlboroughwill feature in a coming issue)Y. our wine, All in all once again lots to reaoduanrdplotos rtotsen.joy!Cheers! Market your wines to the world! Australia Join the Australian WEixnpe oInrdtuCstruysEtxopmortearnSd eBruvyeicrse mission to Verona in 2015 1300 134 096Peter Simic Vinitaly 2015 – VeroEnqa,uItiaplym, 2e2n-2t5aMnadrcLh o20g1i5stics 1300 135 801 The world’s premier Wine Exhibition and the ideal forum for export-ready companies and for buIymerspsoourrt1ciC3ng0ui0nstte1orn3mat2ioen8ra1lSw3einrevsi.ce Market your wines and spirits to around 50,000 international buyersEditor/Publisher EsoaustrecrinngEunreowpesuapnpdlitehrNes fUeroKwm, AaZslliaeo,vatehlreathUneSdwanodrldSo- ubtuhyAerms ferroicma.Western and The Italian Chamber oOf Cuotmbmoeurcnedan-d0In5du0s8try2(I2CC2I)4in4M4elbourne is the Australian represenIntabtivoeuonffidce of -Vi0ni5ta0ly8an3d3p3rov6id6es6assistance toMajor Sponsors and SupportersAustralian wine industry professionals attending the show: - Space and stand bookings at preferential rates - Flight bookings and confirmNeod amccoamtmteordawtiohn aintV.erona - Logistics - Visitor registration ICCI Melbourne also activwelwy wpr.ohmamotbeusragnsdudfa-cliinlitea.tceos mcontact between the Italian and Australian wine industries and provides trade services for the wine industry: market research, business listings, business matching and appointment agendas. For more information contact: Level 1, 185 Faraday Street, Carlton VIC 3053, Australia Tel: 03 9866 5433 E: [email protected] www.italcham.com.au WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefsFAMOUS FUED SURROUNDED BY VINESPHILIP Murphy, the Melbourne wine retailer who grew up in the DON Lewis, the winemaker who long reigned at Mitchelton puttingshadow of his famous father, wine merchant Dan Murphy and went the Central Victorian winery on the national map, has died ofon to establish a rival wine empire, has died. cancer, aged 67. He succumbed to cancer in March following a long illness. He He once said that winning the Jimmy Watson Trophy for the Bestwas 69. Much has been written of the famous feud that simmered One-Year-Old Red Wine at the Melbourne Wine Show in 1991 wasin the decade after he joined his father in his wine business, Dan one of the greatest moments of his life. A photo from that time, himMurphy Cellars, in Prahran in 1971. He recalled in an interview last proudly holding the winning wine, the 1990 Mitchelton Print Labelyear at his vineyard on the Mornington Peninsula that with Dan’s shiraz and the JW decanter, was laid at the foot of his coffin at hisdecision to expand the business in the 1980s, he considered his Nagambie funeral on April 11. Above it, a wreath of autumn-toneddays numbered. “He was lucky to be alive (following a series of grape leaves and vines. Lewis spent almost his entire adult lifeheart attacks), but he still wouldn’t retire and insisted on running surrounded by vines; his home until his death was among the vinesthe place. at Mitchelton. Few winemakers have been as intuitive and naturally- skilled, and equally at home in the vineyard and the winery. He “I said, ‘I think it’s time I took over,’ and he said, ‘It’s not going started working as an assistant to the great Colin Preece afterto happen’.” Mitchelton was established in 1969 by Ross Shelmerdine. In 1980 the Valmorbida family bought the winery and a golden age ensued. “I think I waited right up to his 70th birthday to hear that and, inthe end, I said, ‘Oh well, I’m going somewhere else.’ So we spilt. John Valmorbida recalled that at the very start there wereWe had a very, very nasty argument about everything, and I walked concerns that the young Lewis, then winemaker and a quiet manaway and started my own show. And he didn’t look back, he just of little words, would be suited to represent the brand in front ofkept going.” And so began Philip Murphy Wines & Spirits. Philip the trade and wine press.deliberately sought the higher ground to Dan Murphy Cellars withpremium wines rather than heavily discounting products, and it “In a life of many great calls my father held firm and backedthrived. The chain was sold to Coles Myer in 2000 for $54 million Don. I remember him saying to me, ‘I like him, he’s a good man’.and Philip retired to his 2ha pinot noir vineyard at Main Ridge on And did Don deliver.” Lewis crafted some of the most inspiringthe Mornington Peninsula to make wine. He and his father were rieslings made in Australia, a rare feat given we are talking aboutreconciled before Dan Murphy’s death in 2001. Philip was a Central Victoria. And marsanne, the Rhone white grape gained aburgundy fanatic, building a considerable cellar of fine burgundies, huge following. His shiraz walked a delicate tightrope, robust buthe even named his yacht Premier Cru (which was famously never alcoholic, flavoursome but not porty.stolen and sailed to Tasmania by a wily sea-loving thief). Thecomplete wine man, he embraced all aspects of wine. He owned “Gentle, genuine, humble yet with a steely determination, alwaysleading Melbourne restaurant The Duck at Southbank and wrote trying something new, always wanting to improve, always findinga successful wine book What Is Wine? before becoming a trained a way, adapting,” is how John Valmorbida remembered his friend.winemaker and making wine under his own name. When Lewis ended his time at Mitchelton in 2004 after 30 vintagesEXPORTS ON THE RISE he investigated Mediterranean varieties with his wine partner, Narelle King, and with backing from Valmorbida, Tar & Roses wasTHE Australian wine industry is breathing a major sigh of relief after created in a shed in Nagambie. That shed now houses some offinally seeing a rise in wine exports during 2016. It’s been a long the best tempranillo and pinot grigio going round.time coming, with the industry suffering from years of oversupply,low grape prices and increasing international competition. During2016 the value of Australian wine exports grew by 7 per cent to$2.22 billion, and volume increased by 1 per cent to 750 millionlitres. The average value of exports grew by 6 per cent to $2.96/litre,the highest level since 2009. And to the relief of many a winemaker,the strongest export growth came from the most expensive winespriced $10/litre or more. While small growth in some sectorswas registered in Australia’s traditional main markets, the UnitedKingdom and the United States, the big success story continuedto be China and parts of Asia, notably Japan and Korea. The badnews is that New Zealand pipped Australia for the first time in theUS market, with the value of Kiwi wine jumping 11 per cent in 2016to $400 million, exceeding Australia’s earnings there.10 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

briefsRANDALL EYES REVITALISATION at Milawa drew to a close. HavingONCE again, Warren Randall, South Australian winemaker turned commenced in thewinery owner, is being called the saviour of the Australian wine business in 1934,industry after buying the disused and unloved historic Ryecroft John Charles heldwinery in McLaren Vale. The man who resurrected the fortunes many positionsof Seppeltsfield in the Barossa Valley, now looks to a similar from winemaker,revitalisation of Ryecroft. He says he intends to fully restore the manager, managing1888 winery to its full glory and that includes 33 original wax-lined director, chairmanopen fermenters. He has also bought the adjoining 40.4ha of and finally lifevineyards, thus continuing the Ryecroft story in the bottle. Ryecroft president. When he joined his father the family had 14ha underwas put on the market by Treasury Wine Estates in 2015. vines and supplemented their income with other farming activities. It was for winemaking that the company established its reputationPAYING TRIBUTE TO A PATRIARCH and the cereal crops and fat lambs gave way to grapevines. John Charles initiated experiments in trialling uncommon varieties. TheseLOOK out for a new icon wine from Brown Brothers that pays experiments continue today, with over 40 different varieties growntribute to second-generation family patriarch John Charles Brown. in the diverse micro-climates of the company’s vineyards. He wasThe 2013 John Charles Brown Shiraz, Mondeuse and Cabernet widely acknowledged as one of Australia’s foremost winemakingis a single-vineyard wine from the family’s original farm, planted innovators. He was the first vigneron to pre-drain white grapeat Milawa in north-east Victoria in 1885. The new wine marks the juice to retain the delicate grape flavours in white wines, the firstinnovation shown by John Charles Brown in 1954, when he decided to use refrigeration to control wine fermentation temperatures, andto experiment with an unusual blend. Cabernet sauvignon and the first in 1962 to produce a Noble Rot Riesling using botrytis-mondeuse grapes generally require more time on the vine than affected riesling grapes from the Milawa estate. His efforts wereshiraz to obtain full ripeness. He decided to leave the shiraz on the acknowledged in 1989 when his contribution to the wine industryvine longer so all three varieties were picked on the same day and was recognised with the Queen’s Birthday honours list seeing himco-fermented. The blend is still made in the same fashion today. awarded the Membership of the Order of Australia. The new wineJohn Charles Brown was the only son of the Brown Brothers founder, will sell for $90 and to Brown Brothers club members for $81. VisitJohn Francis Brown. He died 2004, aged 89, as his 70th vintage www.brownbrothers.com.au.wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE Wine Ark Provenance Program 11 Bottles of aged wine that are transacted in Australia rarely have an irrefutable climate controlled storage history.Buyers of vintage wine generally haven’t had a reliable means by which to verify the storage conditions of a wine..until now. Visit our site for more details on Wine Ark’s Provenance Program. 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 327 July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E

briefs IN AT THE DEEP END is Amiana By the Bay Resort and Spa outside Nha Trang, where new general manager Roland Svensson is keen on promoting ALEX MacClelland, the new chief wine, and holds several tastings and wine and food matchings winemaker at Barossa Valley winery that are popular with expats. “I am thrilled to join Amiana, which Bethany, started at the deep end. has a reputation of being one of the finest luxury resorts in MacClelland worked the 2017 vintage Vietnam, and I am very excited to continue to work in a beautiful at Bethany and then was announced country like Vietnam - a place with tremendous potential in as chief winemaker by owners Geoff tourism,” Svensson said. Amiana on the Bay features 113 and Robert Schrapel. “It has been a spacious rooms and villas - all with garden or ocean views and hands-on start for Alex, who started a private terrace or balcony. At the heart of the resort is a 2500 in March ready for the first fruit to squ m natural seawater pool plus a 700 squ m freshwater infinity come across the weighbridge,” said pool and private, guest-only lagoon beach with soft, white sand. Rob Schrapel. MacClelland brings Bacaro restaurant serves modern international cuisine, fresh a wealth of experience to the role, seafood and excellent traditional Vietnamese food plus tropical having worked in the Rhone Valley, cocktails and a selection of wines which can be enjoyed at the Burgundy and New Zealand before three cool bars. Amiana Spa offers the only luxury private mud returning to Australia to work with bath with an ocean view in Nha Trang, together with a variety of fruit from Coonawarra, Clare Valley, sensual, soothing and rejuvenating massage treatments, andLimestone Coast and, more recently, the Barossa, including at a range of hands-on cooking classes. LB’s Bar offers a goodSchild and Hemera Estate. The Schrapel family says they welcome selection of premium quality wines, a large variety of rare singlethe diverse experience and modern wine-making knowledge that malt whiskies and a comprehensive selection of traditional andhe offers to the business. MacClelland’s wine making philosophy is innovative cocktails. Visit www.amianaresort.com.to strive to deliver wines that are a true expression of the land. “Forme, making wine is about looking to allow the unique characteristics GAGO ON THE GOof each site to shine through,” he said. “Gentle caretaking of thewine throughout the fermentation and maturation process is the AUSTRALIA’S highest-profile winemaker on the global stagebest way to deliver a wine that is both unique and expressive.” He has a new role as South Australia and Adelaide’s Great Winesays the vineyard is the key to crafting each wine, understanding Capitals’ global ambassador. Penfolds’ Peter Gago adds thethe terroir of each block, being hands-on, tasting the fruit as it role to his already onerous duties with Treasury Wine Estates.ripens and deciding the day of harvest based on flavour rather The Great Wine Capitals is a network of 10 major global citiesthan numbers. “To be given the opportunity to make wines from a which, through their internationally renowned wine regions,property that has been in the family for six generations is quite an share a key economic and cultural asset. Adelaide lasthonour,” he said. “It is such a stunning location, steeped in history year joined the global network (Melbourne was previously aand traditions that make you feel you are part of something great.” member) alongside San Francisco/Napa Valley (US), Bordeaux (France), Bilbao/Rioja (Spain), Cape Town (South Africa),EXPANDING WINE’S APPEAL Mainz/Rheinhessen (Germany), Mendoza (Argentina), Porto (Portugal), Valparaiso/Casablanca Valley (Chile) and VeronaDESPITE its long historical association with France, it can be (Italy). The network’s global ambassador program will see eachhard to find good wines in Vietnam, particularly outside the member city appoint a wine and tourism leader to help increasemajor cities of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. One resort trying to collaboration as well as improve the profile of the network.serve wines not only from France, but also from the new world “South Australia's membership of the prestigious Great Wine Capitals Global Network presents so many exciting possibilities12 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

briefsand I’m honoured to be involved as the global ambassador for Master Distillers’ Collection Small Batch. Master Distillers’for SA,” Gago said. “Elevating the state’s wine profile on an Collection Solera also picked up a Gold Medal at the SFWSC,international stage increases the exposure for our premium the world’s most prestigious and influential spirits competition.wine labels and raises the bar for us as a wine capital - we’renow benchmarking against regions like Bordeaux and this gives GLOBAL RECOGNITIONus the opportunity to learn from their experience and insights.”South Australia’s Agriculture Minister Leon Bignell welcomed NICK Haddow, the inspirational cheesemaker and brewer fromGago’s appointment in helping to promote the state’s wine Bruny Island Cheese in Tasmania, has won global recognitionregion around in the world. for his book Milk.Made: A Book About Cheese. How to Choose It, Serve It and Eat It. “Helping the wine industry build on the $2.1 billion in revenuegenerated in 2015-16 and maximising export opportunities in Published by Hardie Grant Books, the book was named theinternational markets is a key priority for the State Government,” winner of the Single Subject book category at the prestigioushe said. “South Australia is Australia’s leading wine state, 2017 James Beard Awards - the Olympics of food books. Haddowproducing 80 per cent of the country’s premium wine.” Instagrammed an image of the medal he was awarded at a ceremony at Chelsea Piers in New York. Milk.Made shares his knowledge of making, serving and storing cheese at home, as well as more than 70 recipes. Accompanied by photographer Alan Benson, Haddow visited internationally renowned cheesemakers in Australia, France, the UK, Switzerland and the US, interviewing some of the leading cheese experts from around the world. Hardie Grant publisher Jane Willson said: “We’re thrilled for the recognition that the James Beard Award bestows on a book that we saw as a potential stand-out in an underpublished category. Credit especially to Nick Haddow for his unwavering belief in the power and importance of the subject, and to photographer Alan Benson, who trailed Nick on an ambitious shoot in Europe and the US, capturing cheese and dairy farms during a northern hemisphere winter.” Since opening Bruny Island Cheese in 2003, Haddow has quickly earned a reputation for excellence, as well as for a long time being the only legally recognised producer of raw milk cheese in Australia.FIGHTING FOR RECOGNITIONBUNDABERG Rum fights above its weight category on theinternational stage. In April Bundaberg topped the honoursagain at the 2017 World Drinks Awards in London and the 2017San Francisco World Spirits Competition (SFWSC). BundabergRum was awarded Best Dark Rum in the World for the MasterDistillers’ Collection Solera, and Australia’s Best Gold Rum July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsWINGING IT WITH WINE of Barossa on such a night was a true honour. I’m humbled.” Wells has been making wines at Saltram Wines since 2005 andDOES wine taste different when you are flying at high altitude? was recognised for her “outstanding contribution to the profileVirgin Australia and leading Barossa winery St Hallett have of the Barossa region in South Australia”. Barons of Barossaembarked on an exercise to find out. was founded in 1975 by a group of influential Barossa wine industry personalities. The group has a long philanthropic Virgin has unveiled a wine that has been designed specifically history and has initiated and funded numerous Barossafor enjoyment in the sky and The Duo will be served exclusively community projects. More recently the Barons launched thein business class. It can also be sampled in Virgin lounges. Barossa Cellar and cellared premium wine, which represent theEnvironmental shifts at altitude, including atmospheric pressure very best of each Barossa vintage and will be used for nationaland drier air, can affect the taste of both food and beverages. and international promotions.The Virgin team worked with St Hallett winemaker ShelleyCox to create a wine that delivers both balanced acidity and FLAVOURS OF FRANCEtexture when consumed in the air. Cox says The Duo, a blend ofBarossa and Eden Valley shiraz, would complement the menus IMPORTED wines remain a key piece of the Australian wineof Virgin Australia resident chef Luke Mangan. “The drier air in retail picture and Australian boutique French wine importera cabin can make it really hard to capture a wine’s aroma,” Cox DiscoverVin has just launched a range of wines from Burgundysays. “This is where the Eden Valley component comes in. The in its select portfolio. With a stable of wines primarily entrenchedhigher altitude of the Eden Valley means cooler conditions and in Bordeaux and the south west of France, DiscoverVin hascreates shiraz with lovely overt floral aromas. You only need a now secured a range of white and red burgundies from thesmall component to really lift the blend. We played around with prestigious Domaine Lupe-Cholet. Domaine Lupe-Cholet wasa lot of different options to ensure the acid and texture balance established in 1903 when Alexandre de Mayol de Lupe andwas right. It was a great experience and we are confident the Felix de Cholet merged their wine enterprises. Domaine Lupe-wine will deliver.” The wine is on board Virgin Australia aircraft Cholet makes its wines from grapes grown from Chablis toand in lounges now. Visit www.virginaustralia.com.au. Beaujolais in their own holdings, together with fruit from long- established grower partnerships. It remained a family businessBARONS BOAST FIVE MORE until recently. With the passing of the last descendent it was bought by Albert Bichot, the sixth generation Beaune-basedFIVE new members have been inducted as Barons of Barossa, family wine business that was established in 1831. “We simplya wine fraternity in the region which aims to “proudly and couldn’t go past Lupe-Cholet when we experienced their wines.enthusiastically support Barossa wine viticulture, gastronomy, They are incredibly attractive - rich and complex wines - and atheritage and the arts”. The new inductees include Southcorp an appealing price,” says DiscoverVin director Craig Underhill.winemaker Shavaughn Wells, Elderton winemaker Julie DiscoverVin also recently included the Champagne region in itsAshmead, educator, viticulturist and winemaker Trevor March, portfolio, with the addition of Jeeper Champagne and growerviticulturist and winemaker Rob Gibson and co-managing producer Achille Princier.director of Elderton Wines Cameron Ashmead. Membershipto the prestigious group is for life and by invitation only, withWells saying: “The night was a wonderful celebration of theBarossa region and to be recognised and inducted as a Baron14 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

briefsNEW WESTERN ALLIANCE wine. As Brazil’s largest producer of national sparkling wine since 2005, Salton currently stands out as one of the three largest cellarsVOYAGER Estate, one of the leading destination dining eateries in Brazil, with current production nearing 15 million bottles. Saltonin Margaret River, has a new head chef in Santiago Fernandez, Wines recently entered the Australian market, backed by beveragewho took over in May. Spanish-born Fernandez joins family-owned and distribution company Expedition Trade. Visit www.salton.com.br.Voyager from Sault in Daylesford, Victoria, where he spent five yearsas head chef and built a formidable reputation. Prior to moving CRAFTY BREWERSto Australia, Fernandez worked in Michelin-starred restaurants,including Tristan in Mallorca, Restaurant Toni Vincent in Santiago IT might be the oldest wine producing region in Western Australia,de Compostella and Tapies Restaurant in Lleida as well as roles in but there’s nothing old fashioned about the Swan Valley. In stepGermany, Mexico and Russia. Fernandez said he was excited by with the artisan craft beer movement, the Swan Valley is home toVoyager’s “wine first” concept on the Discovery Degustation menu. “I nine fantastic breweries and cideries producing contemporary andwould like to create food based in the region,” he said. “With wine we creative beers and cider. Visitors can enjoy an impressive varietytalk about terroir, or the place it comes from. I want to create food du of brews - lagers, pilsners, ales, wheat beers, stouts and more, asterroir; using produce that is seasonal and ethically sourced such as well as ciders and ginger beer, all hand crafted using traditionalsustainable seafood, and organic where possible. I want to work with techniques, state-of-the-the winemakers and Voyager’s in-house sommeliers to match our art equipment and onlywines in the best way possible with contemporary cooking styles and the best produce. Thetechniques.” Owner Alexandra Burt said she was delighted to have new Cider and Ale Trailsnared a head chef of Fernandez’s calibre and expertise. “Margaret is just 30 minutes fromRiver more than holds its own when compared to international wines central Perth. Whetherand Santiago's enthusiasm for the region is further evidence our in a rustic pub, Germanlocal restaurants and produce are also world class.” beer hall or a tranquil farm setting, there’s also theBEST OF BRAZIL chance to meet talented local brewers and learnBRAZIL has a reputation for colour, energy and passion, for carnival the secrets of their trade,and football. Now wines from Brazil are available in Australia with before exploring morethe launch of wines from Vinicola Salton. Brazil’s reputation for of the Swan Valley’swinemaking has been slowly but steadily rising. The fifth-largest smorgasbord of wine,wine producer in the southern hemisphere, Brazil has more than chocolate, cheese and1100 wineries and 82,000ha of vineyards across diverse climates. gourmet meals. VisitLocated about two hours from Porto Alegre, in Vale do Rio das Antas w w w. s w a n v a l l e y. c o m .- Distrito de Tuiuty, Bento Gonçalves at the southernmost point of au/Lists/Homepage_Brazil, the fourth-generation Salton winery is one of the most famous Rotating_Banner/Cider_in a beautiful wine tourism region which draws thousands of visitors and_Ale_Trail. each year. At the heart of the Salton family’s success is sparkling July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 15

nzbriefswhat’s happening in the NZ wine sceneEMMA JENKINS MWDEBBIE AND COOK TAKE A TOLL flavour progression was exemplary and with very little disease pressure, fruit was harvested in pristine condition, albeit inTWO cyclones a week apart in April is not exactly top of many smaller quantities than usual. Elsewhere though, it was a yearwinemaking wish lists, yet that’s what harvest 2017 had in store where careful selection in the vineyard and sorting tables werefor New Zealand. But wine drinkers (and critics) shouldn’t be key in maintaining fruit quality. Gibson says: “We did have totoo quick to write off the year as for the most part producers be selective in the vineyard and the amounts harvested areare fairly happy with what ended up in tank and barrel. Hawke’s well down on previous years so it will not be a vintage theBay Winegrowers chairman Michael Henley could have been accountants will enjoy, but this means that quality in our wineryspeaking for most regions when he said: “Wet weather during the is pretty good”. Dom Maxwell, of Waipara's Greystone, echoesharvest period is a regular event in Hawke’s Bay; our winemakers this sentiment commenting: “Extra sorting at picking and on theand growers are prepared for this and make decisions based sorting table was needed so definitely a year where we’ve spentaround many years of experience”. Winemakers duly rose to lots more on labour”. Throughout the country 2017 was a seasonthe challenge. For Kirsten Searle, of Matawhero in Gisborne: of generally low yields, the April rains compounding earlier cool“It won’t go down in history as the best vintage of the decade spring weather. Marlborough winemaker James Healy, of Dogbut we feel we will have a strong line-up of wines that reflect Point, says their “growing season was cooler and wetter thanGisborne well as a region”. Pip Goodwin, of Palliser Estate in normal and our crops were generally modest. I will say thatMartinborough agrees: “Although what can only be described anyone with large crops will not have fared well”. He is optimisticas a ‘very challenging’ vintage and not our usual ideal ripening about their final result, stating: “Possibly the best pinot noir we’veconditions, on the whole we were pleased with the resulting fruit made and I’m not kidding. Cooler season most probably had aespecially some of our pinot noir blocks”. Cyclones Debbie and part to play there, (too)”.The combination of smaller crops andCook predominantly tracked down the country’s east coast, rain events generally impacts most severely on those with largedousing vineyards in record rainfall - in many cases an entire holdings as well as those picking to numbers, making 2017 amonth’s worth of rain was received in just 24 hours - but as they year more than ever to seek out meticulous producers - and getpassed through quickly, most free-draining vineyards were able in quick for your favourites.to recover well. Mercifully, the April timing also meant manyearly varieties and sites were already picked. Warren Gibson,winemaker at Trinity Hill and Bilancia, said 2017 was “generallya challenging season for many but certainly not the hardestvintage winemakers have faced”. And for some, this vintagecould be very good, indeed. Central Otago’s protective mountainranges meant it saw little of the rain that affected others,instead experiencing a growing season that has viticulturistsand winemakers quietly excited. A cool year but atypical inalso having warmer nights and thus smaller diurnal variation, MOST ADMIRED ADDING to its already groaning trophy room, Villa Maria has been recently named by Drinks International as fourth in the World’s Most Admired Wine Brands, the third year running it has made the list. Villa Maria is the only NZ producer to make the list, which takes into account quality, marketing and packaging aspects alongside consumer appeal across a wide demographic. Drinks International mentioned founder and CEO Sir George Fistonich’s “talent spotter” ability, noting Villa Maria’s place in nurturing of a number of NZ’s top winemakers and viticulturists.16 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MWA NOD TO HISTORY BUILDING ON A SOLID PLATFORMNZ’s modern wine industry is a particularly youthful one so it FOLLOWING on from its inaugural success in 2015, thecan be easy to overlook the history that does exist. Hawke’s Organic and Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference returnedBay winery Church Road this year celebrates 120 years, to Marlborough in June. With the themes Liquid, Life andlooking back to when Bartholomew Steinmetz purchased 2ha Label, the Conference looked to build on the solid platform itof vineyards at Taradale for the princely sum of £500 in 1897. established in 2015, where delegates were quick to praise theTom McDonald started working for Steinmetz as a 14-year-old diverse range of presentations covering the practical as well asin 1921, eventually purchasing the winery in 1936, and going philosophical aspects of organic and biodynamic winegrowingon to be awarded an OBE in 1974 for services to the NZ wine for producers of all sizes and types. With NZ aiming for 20 perindustry. Church Road’s current flagship wines are named in cent of its vineyards to be under organic farming regimes byhonour of McDonald, with a TOM syrah added last year to the 2020 (currently around 8 per cent certified), it was a key eventexisting TOM cabernet-blend and chardonnay wines. Made for those transitioning or considering doing so, and the 2017only in outstanding vintages (by Winestate’s 2016 Winemaker conference offered a strong line-up of speakers, including writerof the Year, Chris Scott) all are worthy tributes to not only Tom Dr Jamie Goode, BioGro CEO Donald Nordeng and grower JochMcDonald but to NZ’s winemaking history. Bosworth. See www.organicwineconference.com.PROTECTIONS IN PLACEAFTER a long gestation period through parliament, the passingof the New Zealand Geographical Indications (Wines andSpirits) Act in November 2016 was a significant and welcomestep for the local industry. The culmination of extensive work bythe national body New Zealand Winegrowers, the Act enableswine regions to effectively protect their places and namesinternationally. With NZ wine fast closing in on an annual exportvalue of $NZ2 billion ($A1.9 billion), this is both crucial and longoverdue. Some 18 wine regions are currently in the process oflegally registering their GIs, assembling detailed documentswhose supporting data entails exactly what makes their winesunique, including quality, reputation, history, wine styles,climate, soils and sensory characteristics. More regions areexpected to follow. Having worked on the various GIs’ climateand sensory data for New Zealand Winegrowers, I can attestto the fascinating, often subtle yet clearly distinct differencesthat give NZ’s wine regions their unique personalities. It is quiteremarkable in such a small country just how profoundly variedthe regions are. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWPOWERHOUSES FEELING THE PRESSURETHE OIV (International Organisation Portugal grows grapes across a wide And let’s remember, Portugal is alsoof Vine and Wine), which among other range of regional climates. In the far home to one of the longest surviving,things collates global production and northern cooler climate - right below Spain’s serially re-invented, wine brands, in itsconsumption data, recently has been famed Rias Baixas, albarino territory - crisp, instantly recognisable flask bottle shapeproviding more data from the 2016 vintage. slightly petillant vinho verde vibrates the - Mateus Rosé. This brand was created inWorthy of note from beyond Europe’s vertebrae with its freshness and vivacity. 1942, so it’s celebrating its 75th birthdayborders is that while the global vineyard Indeed, the mainstay of this style is the this year. It’s not the oldest wine brand onarea has been pretty stable for nearly a same grape variety as in Spain - it’s just the shelves - also evolving with changingdecade (now at 7.5 million hectares), the that in Portugal it is called alvarinho. Some consumer palates are Bordeaux’s Moutongeography of distribution is changing. 480km and 30-odd wine regions further to Cadet, which was launched in 1930, the south lies the warmly Mediterranean and Germany’s Blue Nun, launched in China’s vineyard plantings continue tourist-mecca of Algarve, with its own small 1923. But Mateus has seen a revival into grow and it is now the country with clutch of appellations. the new millennium. The original (nowthe second largest area under vine, even labelled as such) Mateus Roséwith 847,000ha, after Spain’s 975,000ha. Those countries with has diversified into a range of pink andWhat’s less widely reported is that only sparkling wines, feeding consumeran estimated 15 to 20 per cent of China’s vineyard areas steadily demand for both bubbles and pink wine.total vineyard area is dedicated to wineproduction (table grapes and dried grapes declining over the last A little further north in Europe, possiblyare the more important sectors). All of which worthy of rather small note at this stage,means China produced about 11.4 million decade as they all is the UK’s triggering of the process thathectolitres of wine in 2016 from 130,000 to will remove the country from the European170,000ha … indeed, not far out of sync undergo rationalisation Union (EU) - a free trade bloc of 28 (soonwith Australia, which country produced to be 27) countries.13mhL from 148,000ha. are unsurprisingly the There are fears for the wine industry as This is important for Europe because traditional European well as for all other areas of (previous)those countries with vineyard areas steadily co-existence. Jean Marie Barillere, CEEVdeclining over the last decade as they all powerhouses of wine president of the European committee ofundergo rationalisation are unsurprisingly wine companies (the body that representsthe traditional European powerhouses production - France, trading interests of the wine industry inof wine production - France, Italy and the EU) said: “With EU wines representingSpain. But they are not alone - Bulgaria Italy and Spain. about 55 per cent of UK wine imports,and Portugal and are in that medium-term there is no doubt that the UK market is ofdownward trending group, too. For each north-south kilometre travelled, utmost importance for EU wine producers the country has nearly one different grape … ensuring smooth wine trade flows is Bulgaria may be waiting in the wings for variety - Portugal possesses a prodigious 250 important to both the EU and the UK.” Noa revitalisation of its industry. But Portugal, indigenous grape varieties, some with the brainer there, but how, or even if it mightwhile its vineyard area may have declined wackiest of names. The ones used to make be achieved (in the two year time-frameby more than 20 per cent in the last decade, port - touriga franca, touriga nacional, tinta mandated by the departure clause) onlyfrom 249,000ha in 2006, to 195,000ha in roriz - are almost well known when compared time will tell. First, the UK has to mostly2016, demonstrates a growing trend for to some of the “lesser-spotted” varieties - “divorce” the EU before the country canincreasing quality of wine production. And, late ripening tannic baga, fresh trincadeira, start renegotiating a trade and bordergiven that the country produces roughly perfumed jaen (all red) and alongside agreement with the EU.six million hectolitres (roughly a similar alvarinho, the taut, perfumed encruzado, andvolume as Bordeaux produces), there is youthful, citrus arinto all offer great potential. Much touted in the UK is the possibilityplenty of good value, richly flavoured wines, of the exit eventually opening upespecially reds, coming from this mostly opportunities for trade with non-EUMediterranean country. countries. Well, such things may be18 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

possible, (closer ties with Australia, NewZealand?) but everything is speculation atthe moment. And negotiations can’t startuntil the UK has left the EU. That nothing isgoing to happen quickly is about the onlything of which we can be reasonably sure.Of more worthy note, arguably, is the 2-4 MARCHnews that the production of English winecontinues apace, albeit from a tiny base.Forgive the UK more positive wine news!In terms of scale, the UK wine productionindustry is probably at a vaguely similarplace to where New Zealand was in thelate ’70s and early ’80s. Ish. Nascent,Excited. Exciting. Garnering early exportsuccesses for a truly niche industry.Based on really good quality.The UK vineyard area now is notdissimilar to that of Tasmania. And thebig news for English wines is the plannedplanting of one million vines during 2017,which is about 250ha at 4000 vines per 18O Producers 3 Days 1 Venuehectare. Given that the vineyard areain 2016 was around 2000ha, this is a12-13 per cent increase. Possibly more Explore the regions, enjoy complimentary tastings, chat to theimpressive is that since 2000, the area winemakers, and immerse yourself inunder vine has nearly tripled. an intimate behind-the-scenes culinary experience at the AdelaideThe forecast is that by 2020 production Convention Centre.will double from around five to 10million bottles. Two-thirds of productionis already made into sparkling wine,having overtaken still wine productionin 2010. And most of the new plantingsare scheduled to be channelled intosparkling wine production. Sparkling FOR MORE INFORMATION VISITwine is absolutely where English wine CELLARDOORFESTIVAL.COMhas found its niche and at prices that inmany cases match those of Champagne.English sparkling wine is not a cheapproduct.Certainly champagne would be seenas the competitive set. Most UK bubblyfollows the champagne model in both thechoice of grape varieties and the method @CELLARDOORFESTof production. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY BLEND IT LIKE BORDEAUXAS early reports start to drip in from The classic bordeaux blend’s ancestral having a “hole in the middle palate” orthose lucky enough to taste en primeur home is in the gravel soils on the left referring to it as “the doughnut effect”.barrel samples, it seems the 2016 vintage bank of the Gironde river estuary in the This is where the wine makes an initialis another great year for Bordeaux. It Haut-Medoc appellations of St Estephe, impact on the front palate but fades awayhighlights the global interest and demand Paulliac, St-Julien and Margaux. Planting in the middle until the dry, tannic finishin cabernet sauvignon blends. The different grapes was traditionally done as kicks in. Merlot assists by adding fruitcomplexity that these wines can achieve an insurance policy in case the cabernet sweetness on the middle palate as wellmakes it undoubtedly the best blended sauvignon did not ripen fully. Merlot, for as being slightly more alcoholic. Cabernetwine in the world. example, ripens a full two weeks before franc doesn’t have the heaviness of the cabernet sauvignon. Cabernet franc buds other grapes and is more delicate and A traditional bordeaux blend is cabernet and matures a week or so earlier than provides floral, violet aromas. When petitsauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon. It can withstand poor verdot does come to the party it adds fruit,with the occasional splash of petit verdot. weather at harvest but can be thin, green tannin and a deep colour to the blend.We use the term in Australia to indicate and herbaceous if picked under ripe. Petitthis blend of grape varieties and it is of verdot ripens the latest of all the varieties Climatically both cabernet sauvignoncourse referring to the wines of the French and often fails to ripen at all in Bordeaux. and merlot can lose their identity shouldregion of Bordeaux on the south western It did have the reputation of only ripening the climate become too hot, whileAtlantic coast of France, and while we fully once a decade, but global warming insufficient warmth results in harsh, greenare a long way from the banks of the has helped and plantings are now slowly and undesirable herbaceous character.Gironde estuary, Australia produces some increasing. It’s a case of balance as some hints ofexcellent blends from this noble, princely herbaceousness can be an attribute and(and often pricey) quartet. The complexity that a telltale aroma to the varieties. The principal grape in the blend is these wines can achieve In Australia some regions choose tonormally cabernet sauvignon. This is blend cabernet sauvignon while othera cross between cabernet franc and makes it undoubtedly regions go it alone. In Victoria’s Yarrasauvignon blanc. It is late budding and Valley, there has been a tradition to makeslow to ripen, therefore it relies on stable the best blended wine a bordeaux blend. This was born out ofvintage conditions to reach physiological the practices of early European (Swiss)maturity, something that Australia can in the world. settlers. The de Pury family, for instance,be relied upon to do as compared to the goes back five generations and 150 yearsfickle climate in Bordeaux. The grapes But the blend rationale goes beyond an with their Yeringberg winery and theyhave a wealth of phenolics derived from insurance policy when you taste the wines. produce a classic cabernet blend. Mountsmall berries, thick skins and its high They are seamlessly and harmoniously a Mary was started by John Middleton atratio of pips to pulp which enables the match. Cabernet sauvignon provides the the dawn of the modern resurgence ofwinemaker to produce deeply coloured framework for the blend and contributes the Yarra Valley in the early 1970s. Mountand tannic wines. The vigorous vine is body, tannin and acidity. Merlot adds a Mary’s aptly named Quintet is a classichowever susceptible to powdery mildew plum fruit softness to cabernet, especially bordeaux blend with the touch of malbecand eutypa dieback (dead arm), a fungal on the middle palate. You will find some as the fifth grape. Yarra Yering predatesdisease that rots the wood on the vine. people talk about cabernet sauvignon Mount Mary, being established in 1969 byThe hard trunk enables cabernet to be Dr Bailey Carrodus, who was inspired bymechanically harvested and provides the French wines he drank while studyingsome resistance to severe northern at Oxford. The Dry Red No 1 was hishemisphere winter weather. homage to the bordeaux blend. These20 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

are complex wines that age gracefullyand are considered as some of Australia’selite wines. In Coonawarra the trend has alwaysbeen to let cabernet sauvignon sing onits own, and it performs perfectly well.Maybe it is the fruit concentration thatit gets and the fact that the climate ismilder. The mean January temperature(MJT) in Coonawarra is 19.6C, while inthe Yarra Valley it ranges from 17.9C upto 19.4C due to the different sub regionsand altitudes. Coonawarra is around 50mabove sea level, while the Yarra goes upto 400m. Rainfall is dramatically different,with Coonawarra only getting half of whatis doused on the Yarra. I think the climateis one explanation why you need theinsurance policy and blending options inthe Yarra and why a stable climate givescabernet a chance to shine in Coonawarra.Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon displaysmint, eucalyptus and leafy aromas as wellas blackberry and blackcurrant fruits. Margaret River is the other key regionfor bordeaux blends, in particularcabernet sauvignon and merlot. Here thetemperature is highest of the three regions,with an MJT of 20.4C but that doesn’ttell the whole story as ocean surroundsthe region on practically three sides andthere is a definite maritime effect. I findthis region, in some years, can displaythe most herbaceous characters of anyAustralian cabernet sauvignon andtherefore needs the assistance of merlotto provide the fruit support. It’s hard to choose between the threeregions as to a favourite, all three havetheir strengths, so the easiest answer isto enjoy and drink all three. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGCAPITAL GAINS AS CANBERRA RESHAPES IT’S DINING AND DRINKS MENUMIRANDA Devine, one of News Corp’s But let’s start with Canberra’s craft beer parking spot. On weekends Canberra’smost outspoken columnists, pulls no prowess. Top of the heap is the BentSpoke surrounding wine country, only a 30-minutepunches. In a recent diatribe against Brewing Co in Braddon, helmed by Richard drive from the CBD, is a popular day trip forCanberra, she berated public servants Watkins, one of Australia’s most decorated Canberrans and tourists. Wines from thein the nation’s capital for their love of brewers, and Tracy Margrain. Two of its ACT need no introduction to wine lovershigh-class restaurants and cafes on every beers - Crankshaft and Barley Griffin (ha, and more than 30 of the 140 wineries ofcorner, among other things. A writer for the ha) - were ranked in the top 20 of GABS the Canberra District Wine Region haveCanberra Times newspaper immediately Hottest 100 Craft Beers. Close to 20 beers cellar doors.took issue, claiming that Canberra is are brewed in-house from lagers to barrel-Australia’s best kept secret with food, wine aged Belgian brews. The hand-crushed The name on everyone's lips even beforeand culture to match any state capital cider made from apples from nearby Batlow you set off is Clonakilla Wines. Winemakerwithout the traffic and crime. is also a stand-out. Tim Kirk's father John first planted the vineyard in 1971 on his 17.8ha farm, but Tim Both are right. Over the past three years Competition has become was the guiding force behind the winery’sthere’s been a flood of new restaurant be-medalled shiraz/viognier blend.and cafe openings across the precisely- so fierce that eateriesplanned city where it takes mere minutes Helm Wines also dates backs to the 1970sto drive anywhere. There’s only one that don’t meet the city’s and is another Murrumbateman must-visit.standard - excellent - even at the local Using a minimalist approach to winemakingPappaRich outlet in the Canberra Centre exacting standards close with modern and traditional techniques, theshopping mall. There is a downside to rieslings and cabernet sauvignons are inthis frenetic culinary activity, though. in record time. a class of their own. The Long Red ShirazCompetition has become so fierce at Eden Road Wines is a major magnet inthat eateries that don’t meet the city’s Microbiologist Lachie McOmish founded drawing repeat visitors.exacting standards close in record the Wig and Pen Tavern & Brewery nearlytime. According to Australian National 25 years ago. Now located at Llewellyn Apart from Murrumbateman, if you areUniversity (ANU) academic Andrew Hall on the ANU campus, the ales and in Canberra for longer than the weekend,Hughes, Canberrans are discerning even beers quench the thirsts of students and Lake George, at a million years old, is oneat cheap and cheerful eateries. locals. Over 16 different brews, including of the oldest lakes in the world. It is home to seasonal and annual releases, are brewed Lerida Estate, where the low-yielding vines Much of the new sophistication can be in the English pub-style premises, so deliver the essence of the region’s terroir.traced to Sasa Sestic, the founder of ONA there’s plenty of reasons to come back Technically in New South Wales, the lakecoffee, who won the 2015 World Barista time and again. fluctuates with the rainfall but full or near-Championship title. His mission is to make empty, nothing diminishes the impact ofCanberra the capital of great coffee. He’s Zierholz Brewery, as you would expect, Lerida’s winery designed by star architectsucceeding, too. His protégé Hugh Kelly, specialises in German-style beers. Available Glenn Murcutt. The boutique Lake GeorgeONA’s head trainer, won the Australian on tap all over town, owner Christoph Winery was one of the pioneers of the areaBarista of the Year title in 2016 and 2017 Zierholz dishes up Ruby Ale, Baltic Ale and is a consistent gong winner for its pinotat the Melbourne International Coffee and much more at his original brewery and noirs and chardonnays.Expo and is off to Seoul in November for pub in Fishwyk, and a buzzy outlet at thea crack at global glory. ONA head roaster, University of Canberra. Other names to note are Lark HillSam Corra, took out the National Brewers’ Biodynamic Winery, Affleck Vineyard andCup championship at this year’s expo and We pulled up at Murrumbateman for a cup Contentious Character Vineyard. On the waywill battle his peers in Budapest for the of coffee and couldn’t find a designated to or from Murrumbateman, pull in to Hallinternational taste-off. (population 332), where Brindabella Hills Winery, Capital Wines and Pankhurst Wines provide tastings of exceptional quality, too.22 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

You would have to get a job transfer for the food.six months to have a ghost of a chance the wine.of experiencing the full spectrum of the experience.Canberra’s dining options. Thankfully,he city’s organised layout makes thingseasier for the short-term visitor. The besteating is found in six major clusters - theNorth Quarter near the centre of town,Braddon, New Acton, Dickson, Kingstonand Manuka and Northside. We startedat Akiba, winner of the People’s ChoiceAward in the Australian Financial Review'sTop 100 Restaurants 2016 rankings. Asbusy as all get out, owners Peter andMichael Harrington specialise in fabulouscocktails, steamed buns, dumplings andfried noodles. Canberra is packed with internationalstudents and diplomatic staff from Asia,many of whom congregate in Dickson’smini-Chinatown for top value venues like TheScholar and Jimmy’s Place. The KingstonForeshore, near the Old Bus Depot Markets,is Canberra’s flashiest urban renewalproject, packed with flashy apartmentslike similar developments in Sydney andMelbourne. Water views are “free” withthe food at C Seafood & Oyster Bar, MoltoItalian, Morks and the Local Press Cafe. If you loved the local wines or didn’tmanage to get beyond the city limits, theBenchmark Wine Bar has long been adestination restaurant as much for the finedining menu as the seriously good winelist. But whatever restaurant you chooseon a brief trip, it’s certain you will makea mental note to visit the nation’s “BushCapital” much more often. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 23

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE SIMON’S BOOK ON AUSTRALIAN WINEDURING the voyage back home to England take on the risky job of publishing Simon’s which of the men planted the first vines and Cin January 1964, after eight weeks visiting book. Ludbrook probably did not know that made the first wine is at present lacking, Mwineries in Australia and New Zealand, on June 29 O’Neil had sent a telegram to and the case of neither family is helped YFrench-born wine authority Andre Simon Gibson allaying Ludbrook’s concerns: “…it by the fact that dates given in the writings CMworked on his long-awaited book, collating was not my intention to publish any material of contemporary and near-contemporary MYand assessing the information he had without final Ludbrook reading”. Simon, not observers are contradictory”. (Since Simon CYgathered during his time visiting wineries to mention Gibson and Ludbrook, must wrote these words there have been others CMYin the two countries. have been relieved and delighted when who can present claims to be the first to K they heard of O’Neil’s practical involvement make wine in South Australia. Chief among He was also reviewing the usefulness of which would ensure a handsome and those making wine commercially in smallmaterial forwarded to him by his host in accurate work of lasting value. amounts was probably Walter Duffield,Australia Victor Gibson. Gibson had sent who famously became South Australia’sfairly standard letters to wineries seeking One controversial first exporter of wine when in 1845 he sentthe information Simon required. Simon was a case of his Echunga Hock to Queenanxious to ensure that he gave appropriate statement, which even Victoria. But neither Simon, Gibson norspace to both the largest and the smallest Ludbrook knew this. Or if they did they didwineries: “I would hate to mention barely the today is still being not mention it.) Some winemakers werenames and no comment when the others shown drafts of the text, among themon my list will have pages to themselves”. challenged by historians, Cyril Henschke, Sid Gramp, the Hardys and the Yalumba people. Another whose Another important gatherer of information concerned who planted opinion was sought was John Fornachon,for Simon was South Australian journalist Australian Wine Research Institute director.AJ (Jack) Ludbrook of the Australian Wine the first vines and madeBureau. He and Gibson apparently argued There was much discussion andover various matters concerning the planned the first wine in South disagreement over whether or not thebook’s contents. For instance, on June 28, book would sell, both in Australia and1966, some six months before the book Australia. overseas, and getting sponsorship forwas launched, Ludbrook wrote somewhat publishing the quality work which Simonquerulously to Gibson threatening “to wash Not all the information being provided and Gibson envisaged was provingmy hands of the whole affair and completely to Simon was straightforward and difficult. The Australian Wine Board haddisclaim any responsibility for the accuracy uncontentious. One controversial statement, just published its book The Grapes areand appropriateness of the text”. which even today is still being challenged Growing and considered that no other by historians, concerned who planted the book was required to promote the industry, Ludbrook’s support was essential to the first vines and made the first wine in South at least not for the time being. They tookbook’s success, especially because of his Australia. The Hamilton family claimed that some convincing that, as Gibson argued,knowledge of the South Australian wine Hamilton’s Ewell Vineyards, planted by Simon’s proposed book “would fill anscene and his contacts, and also because Richard Hamilton, was the oldest existing entirely different need”.of his emphasis on the need for accuracy vineyard in South Australia, while John- not that Simon or Gibson tolerated slap- Reynell argued the case for the Reynell Right until the last minute the book’sdash work. Gibson’s reply to Ludbrook two family. Simon spent several paragraphs in final contents were being discussed. Thedays later is a model of tact. “I think you his book discussing the evidence, having biggest problem was whether or not toare being a bit alarmist when you say that asked Gibson to substantiate Hamilton’s include New Zealand. Some argued for‘it could well be that a great deal of careful assertion that “Ewell is the oldest existing its inclusion in the Australian book, whileeffort has gone for naught’. I am as anxious vineyard in South Australia”. As Simon others thought it could be added to aas you are that the book should be as truthful pointed out, “ … precise evidence about reprint, if that were required. Some evenand accurate as we can make it,” he wrote. hoped for a separate book. We shall seeMeanwhile, Lloyd O’Neil, whose Lansdowne that none of those options was followed.Press was at the time a leading publisherin Australia of quality books, had agreed to24 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

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The future oforganic winesis assured, withwine drinkersbecoming morediscriminatingand concernedabout what theyare drinking.26 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

ORGANICALLYORGANICDavid Bruer plunged into organics 22years ago and today is counting thesuccess of his decision to take thepath less travelled.DAN TRAUCKISINCE the turn of the century a growing number of “hip” words have been bantered around inrelation to wines such as organic, biodynamic, natural, preservative free and carbon neutral.Most recently is “pet-nat” for naturally petulant (spritzig) wines. So what do they really mean? Is this simply more marketing hype or the start of a sea changefor the Australian wine industry? None of these are new concepts, except carbon neutral. Theothers are all long-held ideas for whose “time” has either come or is rapidly approaching. In the case of organic, when these wines first hit the wine scene in the 1980s, they were illdefined and therefore not easy to explain, which caused confusion. They weren’t really acceptedby wine drinkers, who unfortunately saw them as some sort of “hippie thing”. Since then theneed to care for the planet has become much more front of mind for most people and at thesame time the definition of organics has been tightened up. The end result is that today the term“organic” is much better understood by both practitioners and most importantly, by consumers. By today’s standards, the definition of “organic wines” is understood to be: Wines that are madefrom grapes that have been grown without the use of artificial chemicals such as fertilisers andinsecticides. The concept is that by their very nature, artificial chemicals have a considerableresidual impact on the vineyard soils and in turn this will flow on into the grapes and eventually,into the wine we drink. Therefore only mined minerals, natural extracts and derivatives can beapplied to the soil and/or to the vines and grapes, for the wines to be classified as organic. These days, to further support the organic cause there has been noteworthy acknowledgementsthat serious wines can be made in an environmentally friendly way under organic or biodynamicconditions. Since 2014, Winestate has been conducting an annual tasting/judging specificallyfor Organic & Biodynamic wines with some very positive/excellent results. One of the early adopters in Australia was David Bruer. His Langhorne Creek wines, under theTemple Bruer label, have been organic since the mid-1990s. The winery’s name is not basedas popular belief would have it on Bruer considering the winery as his temple, but rather onthe ancient “Knights Templar”. Bruer’s father traced the family’s historical origins back to 1163,to a Lincolnshire church/monastery in Britain and to one of the Knights Templar.July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 27

Along the way Bruer’s passion for doing things differently and as naturally as possible led him to convert the original vineyard, planted in 1973 with cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, merlot and malbec, to organic in 1995. In the late 1980s and early 1990s cabernet franc and petit verdot were also added to the varieties being grown. In 1993 more land was acquired and planted to riesling, verdelho, chenin blanc, viognier and grenache. Some of these varieties were somewhat different for that period, let alone organically grown. Even today there is very little verdelho and chenin blanc planted in South Australia even though both varieties are capable of producing excellent wines. In 2010 Temple Bruer expanded and bought it’s Loxton vineyard, which included a patch of old vine grenache and mataro which had been planted shortly after the end of World War II, and also included more recently planted shiraz and table grapes. Since this acquisition some of the vines have been grafted over to cinsaut and frontignac and new plantings of montepulciano and saperavi have also been put in. In 2011 Temple Bruer bought a vineyard in Eden Valley that was planted to 30-year-old riesling and traminer vines along with younger plantings of pinot noir, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. Since acquiring this vineyard the much under-rated champagne variety of pinot meunier has been added by top dressing some of the existing pinot noir. This vineyard diversity has given Temple Bruer an excellent array of varieties to work with. All three of the vineyards are currently A-grade Organic certified with NASAA (National Association for Sustainable Agriculture, Australia). In addition to this the winery is carbon neutral, one of only five or six in the country to be both organic and carbon neutral. There is no doubt that there will come a day when all wineries will need to be carbon neutral in order for the planet and our way of life to survive. The question is when and how soon can this be done. To be carbon neutral every aspect of the winemaking operation has to be audited for its carbon footprint. For some parts of the operation such as28 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

diesel fuel, LPG and electricity, usage, it is home and enjoy it, not store it away until it is ORGANIC DOSeasy to measure the carbon footprint, but ancient. How many people have cellars thesefor other aspects it becomes more difficult days? A well-made preservative free wine · Fertilise naturally through cover crops,and challenging. For example, what is bottled under screwcap has around half the composts and animal fertilisers rather thanthe carbon footprint for a piece of winery shelf life of the same wine with preservatives chemical fertilisers.equipment which has been purchased from added. So instead of living for say 10 years, · Mow/slash weeds in the vineyard.overseas? It is interesting to note that the it will live for five years.” · Protect vines from pests (insects andlargest carbon footprint at Temple Bruer is diseases) by natural sprays and growingthat of the glass wine bottles it uses. Given that it is currently believed that plants strategically around the vines, e.g. around 85 per cent of all wine in Australia is native vegetation to deter birds from To offset its carbon footprint Temple Bruer consumed within 48 hours of purchase, the attacking the grapes.uses solar electricity (40KW capacity), shorter “shelf life” of preservative free wines · Do everything naturally possible to promoterevegetation (it has a 5ha woodlot), recovers is no longer the issue it used to be. Therefore vineyard and fruit health.waste heat where possible, uses LED lights, the only remaining negativity is now more a · Use minimal sulphur dioxide (or none) inallows the ferments to run a bit warmer than case of the perception rather than the reality. making the wine.they used to and uses less heating in winter. · Use parasites such as wasps to controlAs yet this is not quite enough to cover its The future of organic wines is assured, with pests.total carbon footprint so to achieve neutrality wine drinkers becoming more discriminatingTemple Bruer buys carbon credits to cover and concerned about what they are drinking. ORGANIC DON’TSthe balance. Demand for organic wines is growing steadily in Australia and across the world. In particular, · Use chemical fertilisers. So the question is: Why go to all this trouble the rate of growth in parts of Europe such as · Use chemical sprays to control pests.to be not only organic but also carbon Switzerland, Germany and the UK, as well as · Use herbicides to control weeds.neutral? Well, as Bruer says: “the flavour in other countries like Japan, New Zealand · Use chemical wine additives in makingyou get in a finished bottle of wine is very and the US, is significantly higher and on the the wine.much dependant on what you start out with verge of outstripping supply. Whether this is · Unnecessarily filter or fine the wine.in the vineyard, and if you can get more momentum of its own accord or a corollaryflavour, naturally, in the vineyard, you end up to the global trend of increasing demandwith more flavour in the bottle of wine. The by consumers for organic food, which overstory is all about the relationship between recent times has led/forced supermarkets toenvironmental outcomes and the wine quality create sections for organic vegetables, fruit,outcome. That’s why we are so driven. It is meat and other food stuff, we are alreadynot common in the wine industry to do this starting to see a stronger presence of organicbecause it is hard to do. If it were easy a lot wines in bottle shops. Also, as and whenmore people would be doing it.” more of the larger wineries climb on board the “band wagon,” organic wines will become In terms of the issue of “preservative free,” even more prevalent in liquor stores and onthere are some rather contentious opinions restaurant wine lists.among many wine drinkers. One side islauding the winemakers for not adding Sustainable, environmentally-friendly grapesulphur to their wines, while the other side growing and winemaking has a true championis suggesting that without the addition of in David Bruer and the crew at Temple Bruerpreservatives the wines will fall in a heap in a Wines. Bruer is the team leader of a greatvery short order. bunch of like-minded people who place a high value on the environment and at the Most of Temple Bruer wines are preservative same time are passionate about wine. Despitefree - all of the red wines and rosé, while all the extra effort and cost of being organicthe rest of its range (whites) due to their and carbon neutral, Temple Bruer Wines is adelicacy, use preservatives albeit at very low profitable enterprise.levels as prescribed by the organic rules. Ifan Australian wine label says on it “contains Bruer’s final words: “Few wine businessessulphites” or “preservative 220” then this are profitable at present, ours is, due toindicates that the preservative sulphur dioxide making good quality wines and having ahas been used in the making of the wine. very strong commitment to environmental sustainability.” In response to this contentious issue, Bruersaid: “Consumers want to buy a wine, take it July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 29



Nature's WayORGANIC & BIODYNAMIC VITICULTURETROY KALLESKEORGANIC and biodynamic viticulture involves practicing ecologically predatory birds (e.g. hawks). A diversity of shrubs is also beneficialsustainable agriculture, protecting natural resources and improving on an organic property to encourage beneficial insects. Weeds aresoil and plant wellbeing by natural processes. controlled by mechanical means and not with chemicals. Organic viticulture requires the complete cessation of synthetic Biodynamics takes organic viticulture a step further and especiallychemicals and artificial fertilisers in the vineyard. This is the basic legal prepared biodynamic (BD) preparations are applied to the plant anddefinition of organics. However, in practice, most organic operators to the soil. The BD preps are highly concentrated inoculums thatnot only don’t use chemicals but actively promote a healthy soil and contain high concentrations of micro-organisms and trace elements.healthy vines in a truly sustainable system. Essentially these BD preps are not fertilisers but more a catalyst to enhance the bacterial, fungal and mineral processes that are found Biodynamics is an organic, holistic method of farming based on the in an organic farming system.work of Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner. Biodynamic or biologicallydynamic is a farming system where the health of the soil is of utmost The BD preparations are made from numerous plant, mineralimportance, principally high in biological activity, rich in humus and animal substances. The most commonly known preparation isand well structured. In addition to good organic practices such as BD500, cow horn manure preparation. BD500 is used to vitalise thecomposting, biodynamic farming relies on special plant, animal and soil, increasing the microbes and availability of nutrients and tracemineral preparations, and the rhythmic influences of the sun, moon, elements. BD500 is made by burying cow manure in a cow horn overplanets and stars. Ultimately biodynamics is about two main principles the winter months. During these cooler months, life breathes into the- promoting the health of the soil and enhancing the link between plant soil and the soil has the tendency to be full of growth energies andgrowth and the rhythms of the cosmos. these energies are absorbed into the manure through the receptive nature of the horn. The preparation, when ready after four months, In practical terms, farming organically and biodynamically involves has turned into dark humus and is sweet smelling. It is then mixedmany practices. Vines gain their nutrition naturally (and not with with water and sprayed at the descending phase of the moon in latechemical fertilisers). Green manure cover crops are grown mid-row afternoon in spring and autumn.and incorporated into the soil to build up organic matter and providenutrients for the vines and soil micro-flora. Composts (including the BD501 is the next most common prep and is made of finely groundBD preps) and natural fertilisers (i.e. kelp, rock dust) are applied to quartz crystals. The crystals are buried in a similar manner to BD500,the soil. Biodynamic preparations are applied to the soil and the vines. but they are buried in the cow’s horn during the hot months overVines are protected from insects and diseases through their naturally summer. BD501 is applied early morning during the growing seasonstronger immune systems or via natural sprays such as worm tea and and this spray enhances the photosynthesis of the leaf and alsopotassium bicarbonate, as well as BD sprays, and sulphur is used if strengthens the plants against fungal attacks.required. Bird pest problems (e.g. starlings) are mitigated by plantingadequate native vegetation which they prefer and this also encourages There are other BD preps - BD502-507. These are the compost preps and are made from medicinal herbs. They are humus-like, rich July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 31

in beneficial bacterial life and minerals. They are added to a compost the winery and practices include relying on natural yeasts toheap and they radiate influences throughout the compost aiding the undertake the primary fermentation and natural malolactictransformation of compost material into humus. bacteria to perform the malolactic fermentation as well as notThe BD preps are applied to the vineyard at specific times of adding tannins, enzymes or fining agents.the day, year and growing stage of the plant, and are applied Organic and biodynamic practitioners believe that farmingin regard to the phase of the moon and other planets. For naturally does make better wine. Healthy soil, as attained byexample, 500 is applied to the soil when the moon is descending organic and biodynamic methods, is the prime basis for healthyor in opposition to Saturn. Applying the BD preparations vines, expressive grapes and quality wines. They believe thatat specific times is based on the same principles of moon farming the vineyard organically and biodynamically resultsgardening that has been practiced in more genuine and individualisticfor centuries. Independent research Many organic wineries wines that are truer to their site.demonstrates a correspondence Organic and biodynamic viticulturebetween the moon’s position in the is all about balance and harmony - toreal, or International Astronomical continue the natural have the soil, vine and micro-climateUnion Zodiac, and plant growth. The all working together to producemoon cycle controls tidal effects theme from the vineyard wholesome grapes with authenticwhich involve not only large bodies of flavour, depth and structure.water, but also the surface tension of into the winery and Every vineyard location is unique.liquids, so works on all fluid elements The relationship between soil andin soil and plants as well. So plants climate has the potential to producepractices include relyingthat are rooted in the earth pump a different result at every location.water from the soil into the air and For the vines to capture these uniquethose that consist largely of liquid are on natural yeasts to characteristics of their site with theiraffected by the moon cycle. The lunar roots and their leaves, the soil mustcycle is said to favour above-ground undertake the primary be alive and healthy, and the leavesprocesses when the moon is waxing must be free of synthetic chemicals.and light increases, while as the moon Organic/biodynamic grapes are afermentation and naturalis waning, below-ground processes true, original and authentic expressionare favoured. of their site resulting in genuine and This biodynamic element relating to malolactic bacteria to flavoursome wines.the rhythmic energies of the moon and There are many benefits inplanets (the astronomical influences) perform the malolactic growing grapes organicallyis perhaps the most difficult aspect and biodynamically, includingof biodynamics to understand. It is fermentation. environmental - no chemical runoffimportant to note that this is working into waterways or groundwater andwith astronomy, the physical stars more biodiversity - spiders, fungi,and planets in the sky (and not bacteria, ladybirds, etc; healthierastrology). These extraterrestrial soil, healthier wines to drink with noinfluences are in existence and are residual chemicals and better winesnot dependant on us accepting or - more naturally balanced and ofbelieving in them, they are real. By inherent quality.having the willingness to work with the In Australia there is a government-rhythms of the sun, moon and planets controlled organic standard thatyou can understand the variations in organic/biodynamic producersgrowth patterns and can optimise adhere to with many of them beingyour farming outcomes. certified. Being certified is valuable toIn the winery, by definition, organic the consumer as it’s their guaranteewinemaking is practically the same that they’re getting a genuine organic/as conventional winemaking. The biodynamic product.main difference is that with certified organic wine you are only In summary, organic and biodynamic farming is a trulypermitted to add up to half the amount of sulphur dioxide as sustainable production system with the health of the soil at itsconventional wines. You are also not permitted to use any core. Healthy plants and quality produce then naturally flowssynthetic additives such as PVPP. However, many organic from this. Organic/biodynamic production is nothing out of thewineries continue the natural theme from the vineyard into ordinary but simply the way nature intended. 32 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017



WAKING ASLEEPING BEAUTYWhile cabernet franc might be a star inthe northern hemisphere, it has been onthe fringe in Australia, until now.34 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

DENNIS GASTINJANCIS Robinson introduces her chapter has not increased, but there is growing Vale. I still regard it as one of the beston cabernet franc in her much venerated confidence among winemakers that they examples of a wine from this variety I haveVines, Grapes and Wine reference guide can make wines with this variety that seen in Australia. But he didn’t think it wouldsaying that it “languishes in the shadow will please drinkers, with cooler regions sell and it was never released, though Iof the much more revered cabernet leading the way. bought a dozen unlabelled bottles and, forsauvignon”. But she adds that “no grape me, they certainly justified Thomas’s beliefprimarily responsible for Chateau Cheval The Vinodiversity website lists 70 wineries in the variety.Blanc can be dismissed so summarily”. She that are now making cabernet franc varietalfurther notes that “it is capable of producing wines in Australia. The wineries listed are Even very recently a winemaker, with atruly great wine in St. Emilion and some very in all states, except Tasmania, and from quite stunning cabernet franc, told me hegood ones in the middle Loire”. 31 of Australia’s 65 GI regions. But that is makes only a token amount as a stand- certainly not all of them. I know of at least alone varietal, using the rest in a generic In Australia, cabernet franc has not been three Tasmanian wineries with straight rosé because, he said, it’s easier to sell thatignored, but it has certainly been a “sleepy” cabernet francs and two others using way - no variety declared.variety. It has a history dating back to the this variety as a significant proportion inearly 1800s, arriving initially in James a blend. No doubt there are more in other But confidence is growing. And oneBusby’s legendary nursery collection regions, too. person who is determined to terminate thein 1832. Today it can be found, in small sleepy history of this variety is Australia’squantities, in most regions, but it has never I first discovered this variety in the late merlot pioneer, Jim Irvine. Merlot was alsomade it into the mainstream as a stand- 1970s, in the hands of winemakers who a sleepy variety in Australia, but Irvine gavealone varietal. It accounts for less than 1 didn’t think it would sell as a declared it a life in the mainstream.per cent of total wine grape plantings and variety and were using it, undeclared, inhas mostly been used as a blending grape, blends. I kept on searching and the first After tasting Chateau Petrus in the 1970sas a minor addition to cabernet sauvignon straight varietal version I found, in the and being thoroughly impressed he hadin the Bordeaux style. mid-1990s, was actually a very full-bodied set, as his long-term goal, the making of a sparkling cabernet franc, the work of world-class merlot in Australia. He literally There are positive signs, however, that one of the great industry pioneers of the turned the wine world upside down in 1997this is now changing. The area planted 1980s/1990s, Wayne Thomas, in McLaren when his 1992 Irvine Grand Merlot defeated all the northern hemisphere candidates July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 35

in the search for the World’s Best Merlot by the Swiss Academie du Vin, clearly triumphing over the global benchmark with this variety and one of the world’s most expensive wines, Chateau Petrus, his original inspiration. Now, after selling the famous Irvine brand in late 2014, he has set his sights on cabernet franc. He says that back in the 1980s as a consultant winemaker for a winery in the Barossa Valley, he walked into the fermentation room one morning and was stunned by the lovely floral smell (of violets) coming from one particular tank (which he discovered was cabernet franc) and, from that point, was determined to work with it. He began to trial it in different formats and it resulted in two very successful outcomes under the Irvine label - The Baroness (a super-premium blend of merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon) and the Irvine Estate Merlot Cabernet Franc. His first cabernet franc, under his new Marjico (Marjorie and Jim Co) label, with an eye catching art piece on the label by Pieter Brueghel, hit the market in April. Merlot lingers in Marjico, but is on the way out: the 2014 has 20 per cent merlot, the 2015 has just 8 per cent and he expects the 2016 to be 100 per cent cabernet franc. Irvine is not the only industry veteran with his mind set on this variety. Brian Croser is another. He was reported recently as saying that: “people are looking for more subtlety and cabernet franc delivers that in spades.” It represents 44 per cent of the blend in his 2013 Tapanappa Whalebone Vineyard Merlot Cabernet Franc. Jacques Lurton, who worked with Croser at Petaluma in the 1980s, chose cabernet36 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

franc as the focus for his red wine when Although still It now produces around 300 cases perhe planted his intriguing vineyard on South just a trickle, if the year of its Pinnacle straight cabernet francAustralia’s remote Kangaroo Island, called cabernet francs I and 1000 cases of a 50/50 blend withThe Islander Estate Vineyard. He sees his have been tasting merlot. A clear indication of what can be“flagship” wine, The Investigator (a blend from barrels during achieved with this variety is that the Rossof 90 per cent cabernet franc and 10 per recent visits to Hill’s 2015 Pinnacle Cabernet Franc wascent malbec), as the tool to put Kangaroo Orange end up as judged the equal top wine in Winestate’sIsland on the world map of wine. straight varietals, 2017 review of Central NSW wines, and cabernet franc previous vintages have been very highly Another French winemaker who has made could eventually ranked in earlier Winestate tastings.SA his base and has targeted cabernet become a signaturefranc as a style statement is Xavier Bizol, in variety for the Philip Shaw Wines is another Orangehis Wrattonbully vineyard. His Terre a Terre region. winery about to follow with a straightRouge is a blend of Bordeaux varieties with cabernet franc. It has been using it incabernet franc as the major component blends with merlot but winemaker Danieland was first produced in 2014, as was his Shaw thinks he has finally convinced thepremium level Crayeres Vineyard, a straight rest of the family that a straight varietal cancabernet franc. win customer approval. His barrel samples are very impressive. Viticulturists say that it does best in coolclimates and what is being done with the By contrast, the Upper Hunter region’svariety in Orange, New South Wales tends James Estate has been very up front withto confirm that. Although still just a trickle, cabernet franc. Its 4ha of cabernet francif the cabernet francs I have been tasting were planted in 2001 and it has beenfrom barrels during recent visits to Orange doing a very impressive straight varietalend up as straight varietals, cabernet red since 2005, as well as a cabernet francfranc could eventually become a signature rosé. It is the only winery in the region withvariety for the region. cabernet franc. One of the region’s pioneers, who has And, I leave the final word to Jancishad this variety in his portfolio since Robinson. She says: “I am not a hugehis first plantings in the early 1980s, is enthusiast of the sexual stereotyping ofBloodwood founder Stephen Doyle, who wines but even I can see that cabernetreferred to it years back as “poor man’s franc might be described as the femininepinot”. Although they are always quietly side of cabernet sauvignon”. She says itpresented, as is the case with most is “subtly fragrant and gently flirtatious” ...winemakers working with this variety, his and …“whereas cabernet sauvignon hasexamples have always impressed. so much more of everything - body, tannin, alcohol, colour ... I have a very soft spot, Ross Hill Wines, one of the region’s indeed, for its more charming and morelargest wineries, released its first straightcabernet franc in 2003, from 2ha of aromatic relative, cabernet franc.”vines actually planted near Bloodwood’svineyard on Griffin Rd in 1996, at 780m. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 37

ISLAND IN THE SUNKangaroo Island'sartisan food and drinksproducers are baskingin a growing reputationfor ffine fare.38 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

DAN TRAUCKIAUSTRALIANS know Kangaroo Island rich, complex brew is made in the nano- and several liqueurs. As a result of theis parked just off the coast of Adelaide, brewery, which is much smaller than rapidly growing interest in boutique gin,South Australia, just like they know King the traditional micro-brewery as it only it has recently installed a 300-litre pot stillIsland is off the east coast of Tasmania. produces a mere 1000 bottles at a time. to ramp up production.But unlike King Island, the produce fromwhich is revered and renowned, most are Former Adelaide University oenology While there was a small vineyard plantedaware of its beauty but don’t have a clue professor and spirit distiller, Graham on the island in the 1970s at Easternwhat is produced on KI. Jones and artist wife Mary, established Cove by Barry Hayes, commercial viticulture on KI only started in 1985 Recently, thanks to ferry operator Kangaroo Island Ciders, with a range when Michael and Rosie Florance that includes an original cider, a draftSeaLink (www.sealink.com.au), I visited cider and a non-alcoholic Apple Sparkler. planted vines at Cygnet River. They werethis amazing island and while its These non-filtered ciders are made from followed in 1987 by Caj Amadio (knownblossoming wine industry was the main a mix of old English cider apple varieties from Chain of Ponds Wines) when hepurpose for visiting, there is significantly with interesting names such as Kingston planted vines at Emu Bay.more than wine to discover on this Blacks and Somerset Red Streaks. Thepristine piece of paradise. artistic bottle labels were all designed In 1990 the Kangaroo Island Trading by Mary. Some of the noteworthy producers Company (KITC), spearheaded byof outstanding products on the island Jon Lark’s KIS (Kangaroo Island Spirits), Amadio, was established and launched whose motto is “The Spirit of Kangaroo the island’s first commercial wine withinclude: Kangaroo Island Brewery with Island,” was Australia’s first dedicated its 1991 Florance Cabernet Merlot. Thethe motto, “Hand Built Beer” - having gin distillery when late last century it wines from KITC won plenty of accoladeshand built its cellar door/brew house, started distilling gin in its 80-litre pot still. and the company went on to organisehand planted the hops and hand making Today it has a thriving business which seminars and tastings to promote KIthe beer itself. produces four different handcrafted gins, wines. After a hiatus, KITC is back, with including the sensational Wild Gin made the recent release of the 2016 range of The other island brewer is Drunken with 12 different botanicals including the varietal wines led by its sensational shiraz. unique Kangaroo Island native juniper.Drone Brewery, located at Clifford’s The range also includes three vodkas Since those early days the island’s wineHoney Farm. It brews its Golden Amber fortunes have ebbed and flowed withHoney Wheat Ale using Tasmanian hops several companies/brands starting andand its own Ligurian honey. This delicious, July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 39

then closing. However, more recently and cabernet franc. The plantings are its wines. There are six wines in the Falsethe island wines, though still small in at much higher density than is the norm Cape range, including pinot gris and a veryvolume, have been gaining recognition and some grenache and shiraz vines impressive The Captain Chardonnay. Theand popularity. are planted as bush vines (untrellised) to red grapes are all dry-grown with yields produce fruit with different characteristics of around one and a half tonnes to the Today there are eight island-based to make more complex wines. Another acre, while the whites only receive a smallproducers in addition to several mainland- difference is that most of the wines are amount of irrigation prior to harvesting tobased wineries using KI grapes to produce fermented in square/cubic concrete tanks ensure that they are in as bright a conditionregionally labelled wines. rather than in the usual stainless steel as possible when they are picked. Like tanks. Unlike the concrete tanks of old that all island growers they have to bird net The three largest wine producers on the had to be waxed prior to each vintage, the vines to avoid significant losses to the these newer types do not, and are just hungry local birds.island are: Dudley Wines, just east of rinsed out and re-used.Penneshaw (where the ferry arrives) has False Cape Wines does not have aa range of 17 wines, including methode Bay of Shoals Wines, based in cellar door, but their wines are availabletraditionelle sparkling wines and an Kingscote, is the third of the larger island on their website.interesting sweet red wine called GlossyBlack, named after the local glossyblack cockatoos. As you approach the wineries. It has a portfolio of 13 wines Kangaroo Island Estate is another smallcomplex it looks like a big tin shed, but which includes the innovative (alternative) operation run by farmers Terry and Cherylonce inside it opens up to a magnificent white varieties of pinot gris and a fantastic May. They are also key members of thecellar door and restaurant, with amazing example of the rare French varieties, as local CFS (Country Fire Service) so thatviews out to sea. When the Queen Mary well as tawny and vintage fortifieds to selling their delicious wines has tendedvisited KI earlier this year a number of its complement the range of mainstream to take a back seat to all of their otherpassengers paid a visit to this enchanting varietals. The very attractive cellar door activities as is witnessed by the fact thatcellar door. is perched on a picturesque headland their current releases are vintage 2009. above the beautiful Bay of Shoals, just up They have developed an appropriate The Islander Estate is another of the the road from where the Kingscote pelican motto, “Specialising in mature wines”.larger producers. It is the brainchild of feeding is conducted every evening. Their labels are unique in that some lookrenowned Bordeaux winemaker, Jacques like a postcard and include an image of aLurton, whose family has been making Other wineries I visited on KI included: local artist’s painting as the “stamp” on thewine for over 300 years. When Lurton postcard - very creative.was looking for somewhere to make wine the 22ha False Cape Wines vineyard,outside of France, he chose KI as the site established in 1999 by the Helyar family in Two Wheeler Creek Wines/Andermelfor this exciting wine venture. Islander conjunction with the multi-award winningEstate’s main focus is on lesser known crew at Lake Breeze in Langhorne Creek, Marron, comes complete with agrape varieties, including semillon, malbec which makes the wines and also takes restaurant. Visitors can see how the some of the False Cape grapes to use in marron are bred, and then taste them in40 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

More recently the island wines, though still small in volume, have been gaining recognition and popularity.July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 41

the restaurant with a glass of their wines. The wine range is spearheaded by the award-winning Turkey Nest 2 Sauvignon Blanc 2015, which is one of the best sav blancs on the island. The business is in the process of undergoing change as it has recently been bought by a Chinese businessman. Snow Dragon Wines, named after a snowflake and the leafy sea dragon, is another boutique KI wine brand that has some of the most elegant and classy labels I have seen in a long time. While the wines are not fully organic, they are made in “as natural a way as possible” and the labels are silk-screen printed on to the bottles with most including the shape of Kangaroo Island either as an image or in relief. Each wine has a poem included on the back label. The small range consists of two red wines and a truly delightful sparkling shiraz. A very recent tiny addition to the KI wine portfolio is Nick Dugmore’s The Stoke. Dugmore works for a winery in the Adelaide Hills and in his “spare time” organically grows the grapes for his two sangiovese wines, a rosé and a serious red. For vintage 2017 his vines were not sprayed at all. There are also some wineries that are located on the mainland which use grapes from KI. The largest of these is42 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

Hazyblur, with a vineyard on KI and products from honey through to cider, with the dolphins and plenty more.a small winery at Virginia. The winery beer, spirits and a wide range of KI It’s all happening on KI making it “keenlyferries the grapes over from KI to make its wines. More than 450 products from overrange of elegant wines, which includes 50 Island producers is available at the inviting” to both visitors and drinkers. Thetwo methode traditionelle sparkling stall. It is so successful that the Central island is worth checking out and evenwines. Especially appealing is the 2013 Market’s management team is looking toL’Eclat Blanc de Noir. These KI wines see if it can get other wine regions from more so, are their excellent wines. spearhead the Hazyblur portfolio, with around South Australia to follow suit. So,the mainland wines acting in support. if you can’t manage a trip to KI to see SA’s Eden for yourself, you can go to the Another recent addition to this small clan has Adelaide Central Market and pick up some of the superb KI artisan productsbeen Momentum Food & Wine, a venture such as the delightful sheep’s cheesesthat has been producing and exporting SouthAustralian wine for over 10 years. Its initial KI from Island Pure, which is in the processoffering is a sauvignon blanc and a shiraz, of setting up a microbrewery as a resultand both are very good wines. Speaking of food, the best dining on the of global research conducted by owner Page 38 from top to bottom: Bay of Shoals vineyards, Geoff Rischbeith and his son. sea view over Bay of Shoals vineyards photograph byisland is at Sunset Food & Wine where Dean Wiles.young English chef Jack Ingram and his Given that our Asian neighbours Page 39 from left to right: KIS Gin & Tonics overlookingpartner, front of house manager Vanessa consider Australia as clean and green it the sea view, Remarkable Rocks at sunset.Cu, serve up a mouth-watering gourmet probably won’t take long for the word to Page 40 from left to right: Beer from Drunken Dronemenu and have a very interesting wine spread that KI is the “cleanest and the Brewery (Honey Wheat Ale), sea views at Dudley Wines.list. It consists of mainly KI wines with a greenest” part of Australia. KI tourism is Page 41 from top to bottom: KIS (Kangaroo Island Spirits)smattering of older vintage classic wines about to receive a huge boost because Wild Gin, a selection of spirits produced by KIS, Dudleyfrom around Australia. This coupled the island’s small airfield is soon to be Wines on the balcony, vintage harvest time at Dudleywith the superb service make this an transformed into an airport large enough wines vineyards, kangaroo grazing in the Bay of Shoalsoutstanding restaurant. Contactable to handle direct flights from Sydney and vineyards, a selection of wines from False Cape Wines,on www.sunsetfoodandwine.com it is Melbourne. There are also plans to build vines at the Bay of Shoals.definitely a “must” when visiting this a world-class golf course along with a Page 42 from top to bottom: Sheep from Island Pure,wonderful Island. suitable five-star hotel on the island. staff from Momentum food & wine enjoying a glass of wine in the vineyard, a selection of wines from Snow One of the most innovative and creative Then, of course, there is the island’s Dragon Wines, a selection of wines from The IslanderKI ideas has been the establishment of pristine natural beauty, its conservation Estate, KIB (Kangaroo Island Brewery), winery dog parks, inquisitive kangaroos and wallabies, from Kangaroo Island Brewery,an Adelaide Central Market stall (S17), and seal and whale watching, swimming Jacques Lurton in his vineyard.which sells an extensive array of island Page 43 from left to right: Jacques Lurton blending his wines, delicious feast of local Kangaroo Island produce overlooking a sea view. July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 43

winestatepromotionTHE FRENCH EVOLUTIONFrance is easing its tight controls on wine production to encourage a newgeneration of wine lovers, and greater creativity and diversity.DAN TRAUCKIEverybody has heard of “The French Similarly but much more complicatedly is only source from within one region but canRevolution” which started in 1789 and brought Corsica’s Domaine Comte Abbatucci, (est. also source grapes from any other regionabout dramatic and radical changes to life in 1950) whose best wines, being sold under within France in order to ensure that theFrance. Well, right now there is the “French their “Cuvee Collection” label, are blends quality of their wine is maintained rather thanEvolution” which is happening within their of old indigenous grape varieties that they compromised by the unfortunate weather. Thiswine industry. This will subtly change the wine have been rescuing from extinction. By their now means less vintage variation, especiallyworld given that France is one of the top three very nature (using non-approved varieties) in wet years, where usually the wines canwine producing countries in the world. these wines were not permitted to be sold end up being a bit thinner and weedier than under the local AOC, they too had to be sold normal due to the excessive rain. As we all know, France along with the as Vin de Table.rest of the “Old Wine World”, has over the The next significant difference is thatcenturies focused on where a wine came The French AOC (Appellation d’Origine wineries are allowed to blend togetherfrom, as the main indicator of quality for the Controlee) regulations specify, amongst many whichever varieties they like, as opposed towine. As a result, over time, they developed other things, exactly which grape varieties only being able to use those that are officiallystricter and stricter rules governing almost are allowed to be grown within each specific approved under their region’s AOC rules.every aspect of their wine industry. What geographical growing area. For example, For example, under the Denomination Vinstarted out centuries ago as a good way to one is not allowed to grow Shiraz grapes in de France a Bordeaux winemaker is nowensure wine quality has over time become Bordeaux, or Cabernet Sauvignon grapes able to legally produce the classic Australiansomewhat of a millstone around the necks in Burgundy. However, an evolution began Cabernet Shiraz blend by adding Syrahof many producers. So much so, that along when a new forward thinking denomination grapes from the Rhône Valley or Languedocthe way there have been rebellions. was created in 2009 called Vin de France to their own Bordeaux grown Cabernet which has significantly more contemporary Sauvignon grapes. There are several well-known examples rules and regulations than the AOC’s have.across Europe of this type of rebellious spirit. Another important advantage this createsIn France the free-spirit thinking has been The first significant difference is the fact that is that winemakers can now blend localpresent for quite some time in the likes of unlike in any appellation, wineries producing indigenous grape varieties, which arethe Alsace based innovative biodynamic wine to be sold under the Denomination not well known abroad, with well-knownproducer Domaine Zind-Humbrecht which Vin de France, can source grapes from international varieties such as Chardonnay.has been around since 1620-(150 years any vineyard in all of France. This ensures This has resulted for example, in somebefore Australia was discovered). Their that the producers regularly obtain the very interesting wine blends being producedcurrent manager Oliver Humbrecht was best grapes possible which in turn aids the such as a Muscat and Chardonnay blend, aFrance’s first Master of Wine and in the winemakers by ensuring the consistency of Chardonnay Petit Manseng blend and even1980’s planted Chardonnay in one of their the quality of wine they produce. So that if say, the most unusual blend of Viognier, Muscatvineyards, so as to support their Pinot a particular region or even individual vineyard and Colombard. This is advantageous to theBlanc in hotter years. However the wines has a bad season due to weather events French winemaker by giving them a pointthat include the Chardonnay have had to (which are occurring more and more often of difference on the world stage which isbe sold as Vin de Table rather than under thanks to global warming) the winemakers currently being swamped by wines madethe Alsace AOC because they include the can compensate for this by sourcing grapes from the ‘classical’ varieties from an ever“non-permitted” Chardonnay. from other vineyards. They are not limited to increasing number of wineries from around44 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

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A further the world. At the same time it gives a life- AOC just for its white wines. One needs tobenefit of line to some of the less planted indigenous know the difference, say for example betweenthis new varieties that most of the wine drinking world St-Bris AOC and Bourgogne Aligote AOC toclassification has not heard of, such as, the white variety, understand this region’s wines.is that due to Picpoul (975 hectares planted globally)their new found and the red variety, Counoise (638 hectares Whereas, by contrast the Denominationfreedom these planted globally). Vin de France is focused on making lifewinemakers as easy and uncomplicated as possiblecan now The third major change is that varietal for wine drinkers around the world, so thatproduce their labelling is now allowed, in fact, it is wine is easier to enjoy. Therefore, choosingwines in encouraged under the Denomination Vin a bottle of wine is a much less onerousmuch more de France. Under most of the AOC the wine task for today’s wine drinkers. These winescommercially has to be named on the label by the region are designed to be easy drinking and areviable volumes. that it comes from, rather than the variety particularly aimed for sharing with family that it is made from. For instance, a red and friends in more informal settings, be it wine from the Bordeaux AOC is labelled as the Wednesday evening, ‘thank goodness Bordeaux and does not state on the label, the week is half over’ drink”, alongside the Cabernet Merlot, if it was made this blend. Friday night, ‘takeaway’ or an unplanned In the twenty-first century, when the vast weekend picnic with friends. majority of global wine drinkers prefer to buy their wine first and foremost, by the variety/ In order to demonstrate the quality and ties, Denomination Vin de France makes it enhance the reputation and prestige of the so much easier for these youthful/modern wines being sold under Denomination Vin wine drinkers to be able to understand and de France, in 2010 the Anivin de France, a therefore select French wines. French Trade organisation, started an annual competition solely for these wines called, The A further benefit of this new classification, Best Value Vins de France. The judging panel is that due to their new found freedom these for this competition, which is held in Paris, is winemakers can now produce their wines in comprised of a combination of around 50 much more commercially viable volumes by wine retailers and other wine professionals blending/sourcing grapes from right across from the major focus markets for these wines. the nation rather than having to use only These markets include, the UK, Germany, grapes from their own specific vineyard Denmark, Canada, USA and China. or region. The judging is a day-long event in which One of the great advantages of this new each category table (by variety) has a Denomination is that winemakers can also French wine Judge and a French winemaker now produce a much wider range of easy attached to the judging panel, so as to be able drinking wines that are ready for consumption to give comment on the wines with regards upon release, as opposed to most of the to their styles or verify if a wine is corked, traditional AOC wines which need at least etc. However, these two people do not judge short-term, if not long-term, cellaring before the wines, they are merely there to assist the they are truly ready to be enjoyed. designated judges. So now it is easy to access both white The judging panel awards gold or silver and red elegant, fresh young wines that medals to the top performing wines with are ready to accompany today’s lunch or producers being encouraged to display the tonight’s dinner. In these days of instant medal stickers on their bottles as a guarantee everything, where 85 percent of all wine of exceptional value. is consumed within 48 hours of purchase (globally), these more accessible, raring to For the first time at the most recent go wines, will help to make wine more of a judging of The Best Value Vins de France, in feature of everyday meals. February this year, one of the judges was an Australian, Giuseppe Minissale. Giuseppe is The top French AOC wines represent only the President of the Australian Liquor Stores around three percent of the total volume of Association (ALSA), Chairman of the Boards wines made in France and as a result they of Members, Alcohol Beverages Australia and are rather exclusive and very, very expensive. General Manager of Porter’s Liquor Group. In addition, these wines can be extremely confusing to the less experienced or less Giuseppe judged in the Sauvignon Blanc, informed wine drinkers due to this naming Pinot Noir, and Merlot classes, along with system. Take for example the region of retailers from Scandinavia, UK and the Burgundy which has nearly a dozen different USA. He said that “the gold medal winning wines are of a quality and style that would46 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

be well received in Australia. Furthermore, mainstream AOC labelling, it has taken accelerate as this appellation succeedsthe general standard of the entries was very some time for traditional wine drinkers to in attracting more and more wine drinkersgood”. He went on to say that “It is interesting come to grips with this concept, especially from around the world. This is similarthat most of the wines entered are still under in France. On the other hand younger to the way that Bordeaux First Growth,cork, and in one flight of 40-50 wines I judged wine drinkers, especially outside the “Old Chateau Lafite Rothschild, has generatedin, two of the wines were corked.” Giuseppe World” wine producing countries, took to the the Baron de Rothschild Lafite “Aussieres”feels, and I agree, that this judging concept concept immediately. The result of which, in varietally labelled brand selling Vin de Paysof using retailers rather than winemakers, or a mere six years, the exports of the wines appellated wines, to broaden its reach.in conjunction with winemakers, would also under Denomination Vin de France haveadd more relevance to some Australian wine grown to such an extent that in 2015 they Denomination Vin de France was notshows. The judging system used is a modified represented 16 percent of all French wine envisaged or designed for luxury/ superversion of the standard 20 point system, with exports and they are still growing rapidly. premium winemakers to use, however,the appearance being with 3 points, aroma This equates to around about 250 million there will be some who will be inspired to6 points, palate 8 and a “general overview” bottles of varietally named wine being seize the advantages of the less restrictive3 points. This general overview is where the exported each year, and growing. regulations, in order to experiment outsideretailers can express the suitability of the wine their normal framework. As a result thereto their market place. In the 2016 event 30% The dramatic growth in exports has had the should be some very exciting, differentof entrants were awarded medals. effect of creating a new trend, wherein some and awesome wines arising out of this of the more astute, well established AOC denomination over the next decade or so. In addition to conducting The Best Value producers are now adding DenominationVins de France competition, Anivin de France Vin de France wines to their existing range It will also be fascinating to see which ‘great’also helps to promote these wines around of products. This enables them to appeal to names are added to the denomination’sthe world via communications not only to the a wider drinking audience in their selected honour roll over the next few years.wine trade, but directly to consumers as well. export markets, especially in the ‘New World’. By including Denomination Vin de France So, for most wine drinkers around the Also, during these trying times, consumers wines in their portfolio they can now offer the world, other than the ‘experts’, buyinghave the comfort of knowing that the best value for money wines. In addition to French wine is in the process of changingFrench Ministry of Agriculture, through this, they are offering more “understandable” from being a puzzle or conundrum toits FranceAgriMer branch, on behalf of wines for those of the younger generation, to being simplicity itself thanks to Anivin andAnivin de France, ensures the traceability whom wine is not a consuming passion, but Denomination Vin de France.for every wine, from the bottle back to the rather just another ‘accessory’ to good living.vineyard/s that the grapes came from as Therefore, it can truly be said thatwell as overseeing the Denomination Vin de It is expected that this trend of entrenched Denomination Vin de France is aiding in theFrance regulations. AOC winemakers who are releasing evolution of French wine by encouraging wines under the Denomination Vin de creativity, diversity and flair, while at the same Because the wine labelling under this France will not only continue to grow, but time not undermining the centuries of Frenchdenomination is so different to the traditional wine history. C’est magnifique! July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 47

Vive la France,Vive la Value!In the words of Versace, « competition pushes you to do better »,and France’s latest wine competition has really got winemakersstriving for greatness.Since it was created in 2009, the VIN DE FRANCE category of Awarded Vin de France wines available in AustraliaFrench wines has been growing at incredible rates. More and moreproducers, including some of the best-known winemakers in France,have been embracing the category and the freedom that it allows.Under the VIN DE FRANCE regulations, these master craftsmen areable to select from the finest grapes across all the regions of Franceand find a new way to innovate in order to bring out the best of eachregion and conditions for that year.So fierce has the competition become between these winemakers toproduce the best and most innovative wines, that ANIVIN DE FRANCE(The VIN DE FRANCE National Trade Organisation) has launched acompetition designed to take these wines to the next level whilst alsomaking them more relevant to consumers all over the world. Maison Castel JP. Chenet Chardonnay 2016 Sauvignon Blanc 2016 The gold medal winning wines are of a quality and style that would be well received in Australia. – Giuseppe Minissale2017 Best Value Vin de France judges gather around the Anivin de France team. You can find all the results and wrap-up of this year’s competition on ANIVIN DE FRANCE’s website: www.vindefrancewines.comUnlike many wine contests where local judges taste the wines of theregion, ANIVIN DE FRANCE has made its competition internationally For the first time in the history of the event, Australia was representedrelevant and consumer-oriented, with the judges coming from all among the judges by Giuseppe Minissale, President of the Australianover the world and holding positions in retail businesses rather than Liquor Stores Association and Managing Director of Porter’s Liquor.being winemakers themselves. 34 judges from 13 countries flew Giuseppe blind-tasted three flights of wines and helped to pickto Paris for the 3-day event which, to guarantee the most objective the winning wines for grape varieties well known to Australianresults, involves blind-tastings to pick the crème de la crème of this consumers: Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Merlot. In describingyear’s wines. the wines, Giuseppe said: “The gold medal winning wines are of a quality and style that would be well received in Australia.”The competition also differs from similar events in that it is focusedon an aspect that’s increasingly important to modern consumers: After combining the results of all the blind-tasted categories,value. Suitably titled then, the BEST VALUE VIN DE FRANCE awards 138 wines were awarded medals in 2017, including 33 who woncelebrated their 8th annual event in February 2017, and saw more than460 entries from 95 winemakers, coming from every corner of France.48 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017

winestatepromotion WHAT THE EXPERTS HAVE TO SAY:prestigious gold medals. Among the most awarded grape varietals Giuseppe Minissale,were wines made from Chardonnay and Merlot; two varieties which Porter’s Liquor, Australiaare familiar to Australian consumers but are just waiting to berediscovered through these visionary French wines. “I love the idea of VIN DE FRANCE. It helps simplify the French offer for the AustralianThe Castel Family have hit a winner with their Maison Castel market.”Chardonnay 2016, whose previous iterations have been verysuccessful in seducing the Australian palate, earning a gold medal Charlotte Lemoine,in this year’s BEST VALUE VIN DE FRANCE SELECTION. Not to Tesco, United Kingdombe outdone, Les Grands Chais de France have also produced agold medal winning wine in a strikingly elegant bottle with their JP \"VIN DE FRANCE wines are very relevant toChenet Sauvignon Blanc 2016 which not only catches the eye but the UK market – they are easy to understand,will surprise you with its delicate fruit and citrus balance. offering good value for money.\"It’s wines like these that Giuseppe Minissale refers to as “help[ing] Charles Slezak,simplify the French offer for the Australian market.” Lowes Foods, USAIndeed, through the revolutionary nature of the VIN DE FRANCE \"VIN DE FRANCE wines offer the finessecategory and through the competition spurred on by the BEST of France at an amazing value. There areVALUE VIN DE FRANCE awards, these wines are able to challenge wines amongst the medal winners that Istereotypes of French wines and open up a whole new experience absolutely think will work well in my market.to consumers of all ages and backgrounds. I am anxious to get these wines to the US and share their stories with my customers. ItThe quality and universal appeal of VIN DE FRANCE wines is further is wonderful to see the winemakers’ artisticaffirmed by the glowing feedback from judges of other nationalities skills expressed in this exciting category.including the USA, the United Kingdom and Canada, markets Innovation and experimentation are leadingsimilar to our own. to a superb price value ratio, and that’s what VIN DE FRANCE delivers.\" Why choose VIN DE FRANCE wines? • Modern and attractive labels to make heads turn. More quotes on www.vindefrancewines.com • Easy to understand with grape varieties on the label. • Prices that won’t break the bank. • Outstanding bang-for-your-buck French wines. • New styles, great brands, fantastic wines.Other VIN DE FRANCE wines also available in Australia Bouchard Aîné & Fils Le Chat Noir Lajolie La Petite Perrière Le Jardin de Fleurs Malesan CabernetHéritage du Conseiller Pinot Gris Cabernet Sauvignon Pinot Noir Rosé Syrah Sauvignon Pinot Noir (Also available: Pinot Noir) (Also available: Chardonnay, (Also available: Pinot Noir (Also available: Chardonnay, (Also available: Merlot) Merlot, Pinot Noir) Red, Sauvignon Blanc) Carbernet Sauvignon)(Also available: Chardonnay) July/August 2017 W I N E S TAT E 49

hong konggrapevineLUCY JENKINSEVERY year around this time, Hong in South America and so Japanese from Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market and hisKongers wait in eager anticipation for the influences have run deep in Peruvian signature dishes include sliced tunafirst typhoon of the year which, if it gets dishes since the late 19th century. The sushi (Japan’s much lauded fatty tuna)beyond a T8, means that everyone can latest line-up to the ceviche and sushi and steamed abalone with liver sauce.leave work early and hole up at home with merry-go-round is Uma Nota, following This being an omakase restaurant,a plentiful supply of wine and snacks. in the footsteps of Djapa with a lively though, you’ll never be sure what you’llThere’s certainly something evocative blend of Brazilian art and a focus on be getting until the dishes come out.about watching rain lash the palm trees Brazilian-Japanese street food. Owner Sushi Masataka, Shop 2, G/F, The Oakhill,and lightning-struck mountains flare up Alexis Offe brings his love of Sao Paulo’s 18 Wood Rd, Wan Chai; phone +852from the comfortable vantage point of Liberdade district and marries traditional 2574 1333.your sofa. Brazilian dishes with a Japanese twist such as prawn and calamari ceviche Moving away from the Japanese corner It can also be said that Hong Kong’s with aji amarillo (hot yellow peppers) of the world, but still firmly sticking in thedining trends also mimic the city’s erratic and coriander, Brazilian dumplings region, Soho Spice is set to becomeweather patterns as just like a sudden T8 with chicken and okra and everyone’s another Hong Kong Asian dining favourite.warning in the middle of the working week, favourite, Brazilian empanadas with A 14-year stalwart on buzzing Elgin St,a wave of a particular cuisine sporadically spicy salsa. Soho Spice has revamped its menu whichwashes over the city, creating relentless is inspired by southeast Asian street foodqueues in the rain and people rushing Uma Nota, 38 Peel St, Central; phone from Malaysia, Vietnam and Thailand.from work to claim the last table. Of +852 2889 7576. Chef Peter Cuong Franklin has comelate, it appears to be Japanese-South back from his travels armed with newAmerican culinary ventures charming Continuing the Japanese theme, Sushi recipes hailing from roadside stalls, fromHong Kong’s diners - ToykoLima, El Masataka has sprung up on the site that bao to satay skewers and tempura. TheMercado (Japanese-Peruvian) and formerly housed Sushi Rozan of Lai Sun extensive menu also flirts with curries,Djapa (Japanese-Brazilian) have recently Dining group fame. Named after its chef noodles and grilled fish, which match theopened with their zesty smorgasbord of Masataka Fujisawa Sushi Mastaka is all laid-back vibe and hearty cocktail list.fresh fish, lime and corn. Brazil and Peru about omakase - seating a mere eight Soho Spice, 47B Elgin St, Central; phoneclaim the highest Japanese population guests in its relatively palatial space. +852 2526 2227. Masataka-san sources fresh produce Top: Food from Soho Spice. Middle: Food from Uma Nota Restaurant. Bottom: Sushi Masataka restaurant.50 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2017