Winestate Magazine September October 2012

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2012 WINESTATE VOL 35 ISSUE 5 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE 250th ISSUEWORLD'S GREATEST SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VII SEMILLON RIVER REGIONS YARRA YALLEY & SOUTHERN VICTORIA HAWKES BAY, NZ THE MEN WORLD’S BEHIND GREATEST Grange SYRAH & SHIRAZ Featuring an CHALLENGE iconic interview with Max Schubert 724 from 1978 Plus, interviews TASTED with Don Ditter, John Duval, Peter Gago & John BirdPRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 September/October 2012 DFEDILNEIAAVKLELIRNYS Vol 35 Issue 5 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) The changing face of Indian wine NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 US $14.99 GBP 8.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 INR 1000 RUB 700 CHF 15.00 BGN 25.00 plus Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria River Regions Semillon & Blends Hawkes Bay (NZ) New Releases Top 40 Best Wine Buys Under $20

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BARWITE vineyardsIn the heart of Victoria,nestled between the Great Dividing Range andStrathbogie Ranges is Mansfield, gateway to the High CountryThe high altitude, natural terrain and waterways offer ideal viticulturalconditions to produce crisp aromatic white winesSeeking distribution opportunities ....BARWITE VINEYARDS PTY LTD1974 LONG LANE, MANSFIELD,VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA, 3722Tel + 61 3 5776 9800Email [email protected] www.barwitevineyards.com.au

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Save $50 Mntooetmpruebrqecurhsiarhesiped on our September Wines of Distinction (see below for details)For a full selection of wonderful wines from around Australia and beyond visit us at www.winesociety.com.au $2995 $6595 $5395 $3095Exopto Bozeto Pegasus Bay Trimbach Réserve Printhie MCCde Exopto 2010 Pinot Noir 2009 Pinot Gris 2007 Chardonnay 2010Rioja, Spain Waipara Valley, NZ Alsace, France Orange, NSWContemporary Rioja Excellent Pinot from World class wine Classic coolat its best a great producer Trimbach’s reputation as one climate ChardonnayThis delicious blend of Garnacha, This firmly structured Pinot of Alsace’s finest producers James Halliday awarded thisTempranillo and Graciano achieved an impressive score of is hard earned, with the wine 94 points and describedis a wonderful example of 92 points from New Zealand benefit of almost 400 years it as “strikingly fragrant andcontemporary Rioja. Loaded Master of Wine, Bob Campbell. winemaking experience going pure” and we’d have to agree.with juicy blackberry fruit, cedar Its vibrant red and dark fruit into every bottle.This dry Beautiful citrus flavours areand peppery spice, it’s full of flavours are underpinned by Pinot Gris is full bodied and perfectly balanced by notesregional character. savoury notes hinting at grilled alive with ripe smoky tropical of matchstick, nutty oak, andCode 26163 13.0% alc/vol mushrooms, barbequed meats fruit flavours, leading to a long, a creamy lactic complexity. and wood-smoke. slightly nutty, finish. Code 26200 13.0% alc/vol Code 26566 14.5% alc/vol Code 26563 13.5% alc/volChurch View The Bartondale $2995 Harewood Estate Reserve $2595Shiraz 2007 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009Margaret River,WA Great Southern,WAFour Stars Winestate Multi award winningFermented on skins with a small portion of Viognier to develop With a gold medal to its name, as well as four silvers and a 94the colour, fine tannins and lifted aromatics. Blackcurrant, aniseed, point James Halliday review, the pedigree of this wine is clear.eastern spices and cigar box characters are revealed in this We love its mouth-watering citrus flavours and underlyingelegant and lengthy wine. flinty complexity.Code 26162 14.0% alc/vol Code 25805 13.0% alc/vol Spend $200 or more on wines from this page and we’ll take $50 off the total price. Call 1300 723 723 and quote code WST0912 Lic. No. LIQP770010086.The Wine Society supports the responsible service of alcohol. Liquor Act 2007 - It is against the law to sell or supply alcohol to, or to obtainalcohol on behalf of, a person under the age of 18 years. Delivery charges apply.All wines offered are covered by The Wine Society’s Guarantee of Quality.We guaranteethat if after tasting a bottle or two you are dissatisfied for any reason, we will collect the remainder of those wines and refund the original value of your wine purchase. Code can be redeemed once per customer.

WORLD’S youngwineomf thaekyeerarYounYg oWunginWeminemaakkeerrofothfe YtheearYearGREATEST SHIRAZ YYouonungg WWiinnemeamkeraokf teherYofeatr he Year Winner of the 2012 Winestate (inacnldudeinntgerwtianien,mc(aefnnroat)mpés7pm)World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge glwaBmicolnleoJoiotlgwrekaihobkniytunerdouPasetahutoassngeowrrrcbsmtmmuiteynaipnaceeenfatgtklemhdrcoteeththeotayrgetse,kerawhpdecntleawiaarootw,rstltgiw1eettonios0htrropihhfa0seofyAone%d1Ydondsuu0oeuclfsebdauulartFexenernrsiccwpan:rghatelesYaiWaimilanmtllobweieosarulinmetneimnnntcscedhgegecaemaraWktNptniihnnahintdneeakieigotngwpehsfenNiréiaienrmd,Zsmosdopo.yteafuavpSolkatrsetshluoelhet,tmaanrraenrltgynbedYeh’adese.ertraienhrrruleiw2tbe0h.1o2. Better than the best DOLTONE of the RhôneValley…? HOUSE Better than the Jones Bay Wharf | Pyrmont Barossan icon wines…? Contact us to book your tickets … Winestate’s finest palates think so. 1300 729 657 [email protected] $9495 www.twitter.com.au/young_winemaker Code 26289 14.5% alc/vol Enjoy the personal touch Get just a little bit closer to the creator of this world-beating wine. Buy a six-pack and each bottle will be personally signed by Bird in Hand Chief Winemaker Kym Milne MW. Call 1300 723 723 Opportunities for sponsorship available www.youngwinemaker.com.au

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NO.250 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2012Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Michael BatesAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Coordinator Stephen Dean E-mail: [email protected] DAI RubiconWinestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel HopkinsVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod ProperjohnQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MWNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastonADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] South WalesAngelica Naranjo - Pearman MediaPhone: (02) 02 9929 3966 E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaKym Burke - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] & Eastern EuropeFabio Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: [email protected] and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandGordon and Gotch New ZealandInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2012 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsSEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2012WOR LD’S GR EATE S T 38 Deakin finally deliversSYRAH & SHIRAZ It might be a harsh environment along the banks of the Murray River, but at Deakin Estate, winemaker Dr Phil Spillman is working his52 The bottles have been opened and magic to produce trophy wines ofthe reds – all 700-plus of them – tasted great complexity that have someand a winner chosen in Winestate’s of the world’s leading Champagneannual World’s Greatest Syrah and houses rasing their eyebrows,Shiraz Challenge. Editor and Publisher writes Patrick Haddock.Peter Simic believes there is no other 42 The men behind Grange The myths, magic, and controversywine competition in the world that surrounding Penfolds Grange and its legendary winemaker Maxbrings together the finest French syrah, 42 Schubert have become ingrained in the world of wine. In our 10-pageAustralian and New Zealand shirazand the iconic Aussies, including OT H E R F E AT U R E SGrange and Hill of Grace. 32 The changing face of Indian wine56 State of delight There’s a quiet revolution gaining ground special feature Jeni Port looksSouth Australia is basking in a red in India, writes Denis Gastin, as a back more than six decades toglow after shiraz from three of its growing number of Indians embrace the the early years when Schubertwineries - Bird in Hand, Totino and wine culture. Estimates that the market was embarking on his journey toGumpara - dominated this year’s will grow 25 per cent year-on-year for produce an iconic Australian red.challenge and shared the spoils. the next 25 years are staggering, and She talks with the four living GrangeNigel Hopkins and Joy Walterfang young, affluent Indians, including women winemakers - John Bird, Don Ditter,talk to the winemakers behind the of all ages, now see wine as being more John Duval and today’s Grangethree successful reds produced in the sophisticated than their traditional drinks. maestro, Peter Gago – about their Adelaide Hills and Barossa Valley. 36 Settling on a style contributions to the continuing The Hawke’s Bay wine region might development of the mighty red and62 The top drops be basking in a new bout of popularity, their relationships with Schubert. For those who shop in the budget-end of the market to the high-end but the industry is still grappling withspenders, we’ve got a winner for you. its identity. Michael Cooper explains R E G U L A R SRead about the judges’ top picks in that some in the industry want aour wrap-up of category winners from single, flagship style to identify the 14 Briefsthe under $10 segment through to the region, while others are arguing for a 23 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper$200-plus selection. celebration of its wine diversity.82 What the judges said 24 European Report with Sally Easton Browse the judges’ tasting notes on 26 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartleythe 700-plus wines entered in this 28 Wine Travel with Elisabeth Kingyear’s challenge and create your own 143 Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac, 30 Wine History with Valmai Hankel 64 Grapevinesyrah or shiraz wish-list. There’s sure New Releases and Top 40 Best Buysto be a wine that will take your fancy. under $20. 70 Wine Words W I N E TAST I N G S 72 Bookworms 112 Semillon & Blends 73 How We Judge 118 Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria 74 What’s it Worth? 124 River Regions 76 Wine Investment & Collecting 130 Hawke’s Bay, NZ 95 Subscription Form 137 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases 170 Aftertaste Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 250 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au September/October 2012 Cover photograph © Orange Lane STUDIOS.





editorialAS WE RECEIVE THE GREAT NEWS FROM WINEMAKERSaround most of Australia’s wine regions that 2012 is a “ripper” year, perhaps evenvintage of this century so far, it is also pleasing to hear that the wine glut may bebeginning to wane. While for a consumer being able to buy cheap wine is not initself a bad thing, this has to be sustainable for both grower and maker, whichit hasn’t been over the past few years. At the end of the day we want the bestwine to be produced and that may require giving the winemakers some slack! Meanwhile, it is time to again reveal our best shiraz/syrah from our AnnualWorld’s Greatest Shiraz & Syrah Challenge. This is the seventh year that webrought together the world’s great names of these varieties; top wines fromiconic producers such as Guigal, Paul Jaboulet, Chapoutier and Chateau Clapefrom France, Craggy Range from New Zealand and Grange and Hill of Gracefrom Australia. Then there are 700 other wines vying for best in each pricecategory. As far as I know it is still the biggest and certainly most competitivetasting of this variety anywhere in the world. What is great about this tasting is that all wines are judged blind with apanel of three judges involved each day. It means that even the great nameshave nowhere to hide and any results they achieve are truly earned. This endresult then has nothing to do with their label, terroir, reputation, winemaker’s charm or provenance. It certainly sortsout the “performers” from the “pretenders”. Each day the judges have no knowledge of what they are tasting other than knowing that the wines are eitherstraight shiraz or syrah, or in some flights predominant shiraz/syrah blends. We don’t specifically tell them that a wineis named syrah though, for obvious reasons. Flights are arranged within price categories, followed by vintage alignmentwithin those categories. Judges are also given vintage details. It is interesting to note that most wine shows judgeby vintage rather than price because theirs is a peer evaluation whereas, because we largely report to a consumeraudience, we like the price comparison. (I can’t imagine a buyer going into a liquor store saying “show me your 2009shiraz wines,” rather than “what have you got around $20?”.) It is fascinating to see how this variety has evolved over the years, both from a winemaking and judging perspective.While we have always had the boxer’s parlay of lightweight, middleweight and heavyweight when referring to this varietal- perhaps more so than any other - it seems that the world’s focus is moving more to vibrant, mid-weight styles. Whilesuperficially this may be seen to now favour the wines of the Rhone Valley, New Zealand, South America and SouthAfrica, leaving the now “old fashioned” Aussie blockbusters out in the cold, nothing could be further from the truth. With a great sense of awareness, winemakers from the regions that produce the most flavoursome wines on earth,the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, have honed their art to produce extremely well-balanced wines that belie anytrace of excess alcohol and tannins. On top of this, cooler climate regions from the Hills or further south have snuckup on us to deliver wines that you would struggle to know where they come from. “Is that a Rhone wine?” you mightask, “maybe a South African/American.” To prove a point, this is now the second year in a row that all top 10 wines judged by the trophy panel turned out tobe Australian (in fact all were from South Australian regions; Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Coonawarraand the Clare Valley). And these are the type of wines that are also winning in the international competitions. What pleased me was the range of different regions that were involved in producing the top 10 wines and thenumber of highly rated wines from all price ranges (particularly a $20 wine that got five stars and made it into thetop 10). That’s where I feel very proud of our blind tasting system. As I have said many times before, “if you get anaward in Winestate you have truly earned it!” For a full round-up of judges’ comments go to page 82. There is a lot to choose from but don’t just look at the mostexpensive wines. Look at the wines in the price range you normally buy from and read between the lines about priceversus value. Who knows, you might find a new favourite, or three!Cheers!Peter Simic 13Editor/PublisherPLEASE NOTE that the Wine of the Year Awards Public Tasting mentioned on page 133 of Winestate’s July/August 2012 issue incorrectly states theevent as being held on the Friday 14th September. The correct date is the Thursday 13th September at the National Wine Centre, Adelaide. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E

briefsANOTHER GOOD YEAR ON THE ROADTHE 2012 harvest is now in and many producers and winegrowers SIX Hunter Valley winemakers have completed a marathonaround Australia are breathing a sigh of relief. Word is the vintage 2000km road trip from Melbourne to Noosa on their secondshould rate well quality wise, especially following on from the annual Caravan of Courage tour. Along the way they havechallenging 2011 year. Those reporting good years include the helped rewrite the book on the role of social networking as aMurray Valley Winegrowers with some members rating the 2012 marketing tool for wine producers. No formal advertising oras their best vintage since 2002. Mild conditions reportedly were public relations was employed during their trek. The lads simplyresponsible for the “best” fruit seen in years in the Murray-Darling used Twitter and Facebook to alert people to their series ofand Swan Hill regions. “Heavy rain at the tail-end of vintage pop-up tastings and dinners. In Melbourne, always sluggishcreated disease pressures for some growers and caused delays, to get on the Hunter Valley bandwagon, they attracted morebut by then the majority of fruit had been harvested,” said Murray than 200 people. In Sydney, it was 400 people.Valley Winegrowers CEO, Mark McKenzie. He reported bigdemand this vintage for gordo (intended for moscato production), The results have delighted the band of six who collectivelymerlot, cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay. call themselves New Gen Hunter Valley, from left to right: David Hook (David Hook Wines), Andrew Thomas (Andrew ThomasBREWING A NEW BREW Wines), Rhys Eather (Meerea Park), Nick Paterson (Mistletoe), Mike de Iuliis (de Iuliis) and Andrew Margan (Margan Wines).AUSTRALIA’S third largest wine producer, Casella Wines, is going They also learnt a lot about the new generation of wine drinkerinto the brewery business. And in keeping with its history of doing interested in Hunter Valley semillon and shiraz. Their tastingsnothing by halves, the Casella family is investing in a modern were attended by big numbers of young women aged 25 tobrewery with a bottling line programmed to fill 35,000 bottles an 35. “They really want to know about wine,” says Mike de Iuliis.hour. The new brewery, located on site at the Casella winemaking And what of young Australian men? “They follow the girls!”complex outside Griffith, will take the name “Casella FamilyBrewers”. Casella managing director, John Casella, promises adifferent taste for the first beer to be released. “When you tastemany beers you are tasting stale malt, yeast and hops,” he says.He promises a fresher, softer easy drinking style of beer. Withits own distribution team already in place for its wine products,Casella says logistically his new operation will be very competitiveagainst its Aussie competitors. He’s already eyeing a 5 per centslice of the total Aussie beer industry. The new Riverina brewingcomplex boasts two breweries in one, with the main brewerydevoted to making and bottling and a second that will researchbeer profiles and boutique styles. wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE 11 SITES NATIONALLY ○ CLIMATE CONTROLLED STORAGE ○ BUY VINTAGE WINE www.wine-ark.com.au 1300 946 32714 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

briefsPUSHING THE a bit more like a traditional‘REAL THING’ wine glass falling somewhere in between a riesling andYOUNG Jorge Rosas chardonnay glass in shape.(pictured) of the Oporto Tasters around the worldhouse of Ramos Pinto arrived will applaud the move. Thein Australia recently at an small flute looks good but isinteresting time for the sales difficult to swirl the wine andof Portuguese port in this release the aromas Oliviercountry. With Australian-made Krug, during his recent visit“port” no longer permitted, to Australia, also outlinedthe use of the name on labels of Australian fortifieds now being changes to Krug wine labels with more information on the cards.illegal, Rosas is hoping to capture some of those Australian drinkerswho want to trade up to the real thing. He’s deliberately singling The back label of Krug’s Grande Cuvee will in the future containout new generation drinkers as well as women, a new audience an identity number. Drinkers will be able to access more informationfor what has traditionally been regarded as a fairly conservative than ever before about the production of Grande Cuvee by tappingwine. Ramos Pinto is introducing sleek new labels and appealing the ID number into the Krug Lover’s page on the www.krug.comto sommeliers around the country, encouraging them to put more website. The disgorgement date will be of interest to many drinkers,Portuguese port on their lists by the glass. It’s also keen to get especially those who prize freshness in their champagne.rid of some of the old customs that tend to stereotype fortifieds,especially the unwritten rule which suggests a bottle of vintage ANSWERING THE BIG QUESTIONSport needs to be consumed in the one sitting. Rosas says there isno immediate deterioration in quality drinking the contents of the AWARD-WINNING British wine writer Andrew Jefford was thebottle over 36 hours. “If you open a VP for dinner and finish it at headline drawcard at the annual Wine Communicators of Australialunch the next day, the wine is probably at its peak,” he suggests. lecture in May. In his speech: Wine and The Bigger Questions, he touched on everything from “the dangers of familiarity and theSHAPING A NEW LOOK personal wine epiphany to the complementary roles of naturalness and the human hand in the wines we love”. Jefford, who spentTHERE are changes afoot at the House of Krug, one of 2010 living in Australia and visiting the nation’s wine regions inChampagne’s smaller and most prestigious houses. Young Olivier research for a wine book on this country, now lives in France whereKrug (pictured right), the newest generation to front the house, he is busy trying to complete the book writing task. He reports hereports that Krug, in association with the Austrian glass maker is slowly working his way through chapters on each state, but heextraordinaire, Riedel, is soon to release its own Krug champagne is unable to predict a final publishing date for the work. He does,glass. “We are trying to move away from the traditional champagne however, have a title: Ancient Earth: Terroir and the Australian Wineflute,” he says. The new shape is described as more angular, Landscape. He predicts the release may still be a couple of years away, surely a mouth-watering promise. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsAMAZING GRACE NOT FOR SALEDENIS GASTIN Voyager Estate’s new ownersJUDY LEISSNER (pictured), have emphatically denied theCEO of China’s Grace iconic Margaret River wineryVineyard, has been named the and restaurant/cellar door2012 Asian Wine Personality of complex is for sale followingthe Year, an award presented the recent death of founderby the drinks business and and owner, Michael Wright. Thethe Institute of Masters of Wine Wright family has maintained(IMW). The announcement ownership of Voyager Estatewas made at a reception since Wright died in Aprilduring Vinexpo Asia-Pacific and said rumours it was onin Hong Kong, where Anthony the market were way off theHawser, publisher of the drinks mark. Wright left ownership ofbusiness, and Lynne Sheriff the winery to his daughters,MW, chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine, presented Leissner Alexandra Burt and Leonie Baldock. Burt has worked for Voyagerwith the award. Leissner said: “I am honoured to be the first to receive for many years, becoming CEO in 2011. “We continue our strongthe Asian Wine Personality of the Year award at this year’s Vinexpo commitment to Margaret River and to ensuring that Michael’s visionAsia-Pacific. This award reinforces the fact that our brand is growing for Voyager Estate continues to be delivered well into the future,” shein the right direction and it is great to have people applaud us on said. “The business is not for sale, nor is there any intention to put thethe way. This award will encourage me to continue to bring Grace property or winery on the market. This year is clearly a year of change,Vineyard to the next level.” This is the first year the drinks business progression and new horizons. There are a number of exciting changesand the IMW have created an award for an Asian wine personality afoot at Voyager Estate, many of which Michael was heavily involvedand it follows its award for Lifetime Achievement, which is announced in from the start, and we are excited to bring these projects to fruition.at Vinexpo Bordeaux, with past recipients including Jean-Michel These include a fantastic new wine room and wine experience forCazes, Robert Mondavi and Piero Antinori. The award for Asian visitors, a redeveloped website and some stunning new-release wines.”Wine Personality of the Year recognises outstanding achievementin wine, with a particular emphasis on promoting wine within Asia, ITALIANwhether through viticulture and winemaking, or sales and marketing. CONNECTION PAYS OFF Leissner, as CEO of Grace Vineyard, and a regular speaker atconferences and events within Asia and outside, has drawn global Goelet Wine Estates’ recentlyattention to the quality potential of Chinese wine, as well as promoted appointed group sparklingthe appreciation of domestically-produced fine wine among Chinese winemaker, Karina Dambergsconsumers. Grace Vineyard was established in 1997 in China by Judy’s (pictured), has been namedfather, Chinese-Indonesian businessman Chun Keung Chan. In 2002, winner of the prestigious 2012when she was only 24, Leissner, who was working in the HR department Lorenzo Galli Wine Scholarship.of Goldman Sachs in Hong Kong, left her city-based career and tookover the management of the 200ha Grace Vineyard operation in Shanxi Now in its fourth year, theprovince, south of Beijing. Although Grace Vineyard began with the scholarship was set up byplantation of traditional Bordeaux varieties and chardonnay, Leissner Pamela Galli in honour of herintroduced a more experimental approach to the venture, planting the late husband, the founderlikes of riesling and marselan, as well as pinot noir and shiraz, while of Galli Estate at Sunbury inturning the operation into a globally recognised brand and flagship for Victoria. The award is designedChinese fine wine. More recently she has used screw caps to close to celebrate and explore the diversity and richness of Italian wine,some of the wines, while to ensure an international mindset among her while showcasing the latest Australian interpretations and trendsemployees, she takes her management team to different famous wine with regard to Italian varietals. As the dux of the class, Dambergsregions each year such as Bordeaux or Rioja. Grace Vineyard wines won a trip to Italy valued at $10,000. Following the departure of Loicare aimed at the domestic market although they can be found on wine le Calvez, GWE, the umbrella company for both Taltarni Vineyardslists in major capital cities around the world. The winery produces over and Clover Hill, has recently undergone a restructure. Former senior2 million bottles each year and makes a flagship red blend called Deep winemaker Dambergs has the new role of Clover Hill operationsBlue, while the winery’s top of the range is Chairman’s Reserve. In a manager and group sparkling winemaker and will be permanentlytasting of Chinese wines by Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW for Robert Parker’s located in Tasmania. “The thing that excites me the most,” saysWine Advocate earlier this year, Grace Vineyard was rated as the best Dambergs, “is getting to make a portfolio of sparkling wines from fruitwhite and red wines in the line-up. For the future, Leissner is planning planted and grown exclusively for that purpose.” Robert Heywood,to build more wineries in different parts of China. who worked under le Calvez, will be Taltarni’s senior winemaker.16 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

briefsMELBOURNE MAKEOVERS TOUR TIMETwo of Melbourne’s iconic hotel restaurants - both favourites with Adelaide Sightseeing has announced a new full-day Barossawine lovers - have been given complete makeovers. No.35 at the and Hahndorf Wine Experience tour to enable visitors on aSofitel, a multiple award-winner known also for its sensational short time frame to enjoy two of Australia’s iconic wine regions.views, has taken a more relaxed menu direction with chef Stuart The new tour takes in both the Barossa and Adelaide HillsMcVeigh aiming for a modern but uncomplicated feel. “Melbourne wine regions with wine tastings and tours, including the award-dining has relaxed over the last two to three years,” says McVeigh. winning Jacob’s Creek Visitor Centre with plenty of time to“Diners are harking back to the simple pleasures in life. They are explore the local delights of Hahndorf. “Our expert guide takeslooking for the ‘easy’ dining pleasures that remind them of their guests on a coach tour to the Barossa, home to more than 160childhood and family. It’s a nostalgic yearning for all things past wineries and 80 cellar doors, to sample its finest wines, enjoy aand comforting, especially with the busy stressful lives we all live sumptuous lunch and finish the day with an optional wine tastingtoday.” No.35 is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, although or free time exploring the main street of Hahndorf, Australia’sclosed for lunch Mondays, Tuesdays and Saturdays; phone oldest German settlement,” said marketing manager Julie-Anne(03) 9653 7744. www.no35.com.au. Meanwhile, at the Crown Briscoe. Full-day tours are priced at $125 per adult and departMetropol, Mr Hive Kitchen has taken over the space formerly daily. See www.adelaidesightseeing.com.au.occupied by Gordon Ramsey’s Maze. Here, young chef JohnLawson is serving up dishes influenced by New York, Melbourne PARTING COMPANYand London that he says are reflective of his British heritageand love of comforting dishes that burst with “big flavours”. Winemaker Nick Glaetzer (pictured), winner of last year’s JimmySignature dishes include a modern twist on the nursery favourite Watson trophy for best young red wine at the Royal Melbourneof boiled egg and toasted soldiers, remodelled as duck egg with Wine Show, has surprisingly parted company with Coal Riversourdough soldiers; roasted scallops on cauliflower puree with Valley winery Frogmore Creek, although chief winemaker Alaintoasted wild rice and spice; and Saltbush lamb belly served with Rousseau will remain with the Tasmanian winery. Glaetzer willpeas and mint. Mr Hive Kitchen and Bar is at Level 1, Crown now concentrate on the Glaetzer-Dixon Family Wines label heMetropol, 8 Whiteman St, Southbank; phone (03) 9292 8300. Also owns with wife Sally. The split, announced as being for financialat Crown, renowned two-Michelin star chef Peter Chan has been reasons, is an amicable one. Glaetzer toured producers innamed as the new executive chef at Silks. He was previously California, Oregon and Washington State mid-year as part of hisexecutive chef of Wing Lei at the Wynn Macau. prize for winning the Jimmy Watson for the Glaetzer-Dixon 2010 Mon Pere Shiraz, which sold out almost immediately. He alsoPEDESTAL MOVE spent time in Central Otago. “I see a lot of synergies between Washington State, Oregon and Tasmania, particularly pinotLarry Cherubino has taken over ownership of Margaret River’s noir, but also the fact all are New World regions facing similarPedestal Wines. The shift from founding winemaker and challenges,” Glaetzer said.partner to sole proprietor sees the Pedestal brand added tothe Cherubino portfolio, which also comprises the Ad Hoc, TheYard, Cherubino and Laissez Faire labels. Pedestal Wines wasoriginally established in 2008 as a partnership between Larryand Edwina Cherubino, and Margaret River vignerons Greg andKerilee Brindle. The Brindles founded the Pedestal vineyard adecade earlier. Spanning 14ha, it sits at the highest point of theWilyabrup Valley, among the defining vineyards of Margaret River.“It is very much business as usual for us as far as crafting thewines go, but we will now be more heavily involved in the brand’sdistribution, sales and marketing,” Larry Cherubino said. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefsLEADING THE WAY VINEYARD OF THE YEARBiodynamic farming, and Pooley Wines in the Coal River Valley has won the 2012 Tasmanianparticularly grape growing, Vineyard of the Year Award, which is conducted by the Royalhas enjoyed a massive Agricultural Society of Tasmania in association with Wine Tasmania andsurge in popularity in recent the Tasmanian Institute of Agriculture. Matt Pooley has worked extremelyyears - and Hunter Valley hard lifting the quality of the fruit from the two Pooley vineyards - Cooindalabel Krinklewood is one of Vale Estate at Campania and Belmont Vineyard at Richmond, whichthose leading the charge. together comprise 12ha of vines. Pooley Wines defeated vineyards fromRod Windrim (pictured), around the state to take out the award, which focuses on the viticultureowner and winemaker at practises that are used at vineyards in producing their grapes. PooleyKrinklewood Biodynamic CEO, John Pooley, said the award was a great honour which reflectedVineyard, has embraced well on the Pooley philosophy. “We believe that good wine making startsbiodynamics since 2002 in the vineyard, not in the winery,” Pooley said. “The effort we put intoat his picturesque family producing premium wines actually starts two years before the vintagevineyard in the Broke sub- is picked.” Entries in the awards are judged in categories, including soilregion. He is a passionate advocate, hosting biodynamic management, weed control, disease control, pruning, forming of theworkshops every year with lectures and demonstrations by vine, trellising, and water management. Pooley Wines started in 1985experts Hamish Mackay and John Priestley. “Every aspect of what when John Pooley’s father, Denis, began growing grapes at Campaniawe do here is managed in a biodynamic, organic, holistic and as a retirement hobby.sustainable way, which we believe is evident in the individualityand superior quality of the wines,” Windrim says. “Our focus ison nurturing our vines to good health, allowing the natural cycleof the season to ripen the fruit.” Biodynamics is a step up fromorganics, although there are similarities, and involves followingthe teachings of Rudolf Steiner, the Austrian philosopher whoattempted to link science and mysticism. Krinklewood welcomesinquiries from anyone interested in attending future hands-onworkshops. Phone (02) 9986 1644, email [email protected] visit the website www.krinklewood.com.ISLAND INVESTMENT CHARGE YOUR GLASSESTasmania is one of the best regions in the world in which to invest in The Margaret River Gourmet Escape is a new food and wine festivalvineyards, powerful European wine industry publication The Drinks to be held from November 22-25. International chefs, includingBusiness says. “Taking that global wine consumption will continue Heston Blumenthal and Rene Redzepi will head a line-up of 25to rise, then identifying where the wine demand will pick-up and international and Australian personalities. The event will compriseinvesting in that region, represents a solid strategy to maximise a series of events set in unique locations but the Gourmet Villageyour money,” the magazine said. “Tasmania is the only Australian will be the festival headquarters and located in the iconic Leeuwinstate where its entire grape production is genuinely in a cool Estate Winery (pictured). This hub will feature wine tastings,climate. At the recent 8th International Cool Climate Symposium masterclasses, cooking demonstrations, West Australian premiumfor Viticulture and Oenology (ICCS) it was said that Tasmanian wines and quality produce.wines are ‘punching considerably above their weight’ in relation tothe tiny fraction of national production and the relative youth of the WINSPEAR IN CHARGEcurrent industry. This all points to an area that is worth watchingin terms of vineyard investment, and while vineyards are being Tony Winspear has been appointed chief winemaker at Balgownieremoved in other parts of Australia, the Tasmanian wine industry Estate’s Bendigo and Yarra Valley sites after working for the companyis enjoying modest growth, with recent investments confirming for 18 years. Winspear, who started at Balgownie in 1994 as a vineyardTasmania’s position as a premium cool-climate wine region. It hand, had been working alongside recently departed chief winemakeris a particularly attractive investment location for those seeking Mark Lane for four years. Lane is moving to northern NSW to pursueto expand or diversify their businesses, due to the region’s cool personal interests but will continue to consult to Balgownie on aclimate, affordable land, abundant water resources and relative part-time basis. “Balgownie gets under your skin,” Winspear says.pest and disease freedom. Interesting government economic “We care for something that people have been following for a helldevelopment strategies also add to the notion that this would of a long time; almost 40 commercial vintages have been released.be a good investment as the Tasmanian wine industry has been This is not just a job. Every day, week, year, is different. I love openingidentified as having strong potential for expansion.” an old vintage and remembering what nature threw at us that year.”18 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

briefsFEARLESS FOGARTY mould, but Peter argued strongly to the contrary pointing to the previous involvement for several years of Petaluma and Brian Croser, and theIT WAS 1999 when WA lawyer and businessman Peter Fogarty took quality of wines like Yilgarn, an oaked semillon sauvignon blanc.his first sip of his own wine – a chardonnay produced at his newMillbrook development in the Perth Hills at Jarrahdale, 70km south “It also gives us very good chardonnay and outstanding merlot,of Perth. He was pleasantly surprised at the quality even though it a variety which I have always been a fan of,” Peter said. And thewas not long before the chardonnay vines were to go, the vineyard shopping bag has room for more purchases – if the site is right. Thearea not considered cool enough for the variety, the start of a policy group is also planning to invest in promoting its four brands andto produce optimum fruit from the most suited vineyard locations. their wines which “punch above their weight”, Asia is the focus for exports with Peter confident China is the “real deal” because of its Now the Fogarty family has 38 labelled wines of their own to growing demand for premium wines at prices of $100 a bottle plus.choose from, including Lake’s Folly in the Hunter Valley, DeepWoods at Margaret River, Smithbrook at Pemberton in the State’s Asked about the money invested in the industry, the 60-year-south west and of course, Millbrook where it all began – a wine old (this October) was coy saying only: “Quite a lot, somewhereinterest enhanced through yachting. Driving across the Nullarbor between $20 and $50 million”. In its brief history, the group haveto national championships towing his boat, Peter would take every won hundreds of show accolades many for its benchmark winesopportunity to taste wines on the way, there and back. Once, in such as Millbrook viognier, shiraz viognier and sauvignon blanc;1977, it involved a 6am visit to Henschkes in the Barossa hills Lake’s Folly cabernet and chardonnay; Deep Woods block 7 shirazwhere he parked, waiting for the cellar door to open. Fortunately, and cabernet with Smithbrook yet to make its mark no doubt withStephen Henschke was up early and, though surprised, happily wines like merlot and the oaked semillon sauvignon blanc.showed him around. For the journey home, the yacht was ladenwith five cases of wine, the start of a major collection. BILL GOT THE BEST Initially, Millbrook was to be a hobby. Soon, however, Peter was WHEN it comes to wine-making education and philosophy, WA’slooking near and far for other wine producing opportunities with Bill Crappsley, 65, believes he has had the best. The newly electedLake’s Folly purchased in June 2000 and due to celebrate its 50th president of the WA Wine Press Club was mentored at the State’sbirthday next year. Plans for the landmark anniversary include leading producer Houghton by Jack Mann, doyen of WA wine makerstastings from most of the vintages, and dinners as well as a special for more than half a century. “He instilled hygiene into me and that winechardonnay release from new hill top plantings and a unique red should be preferred to beer as the national consumer beverage,” heinvolving a blend of the best cabernet from Lake‘s Folly and Deep said. Crappsley’s wine career had its origins as a teenager when heWoods with perhaps a dash of shiraz from Millbrook. visited his uncle Hal Missingham who, at the time, was director of the NSW Art Gallery. “He was a great wine and food man and was an “In the years of bad weather in the Hunter such as this year (2012) early member of the NSW Wine and Food Society designing its winewhen most people did not get any reds off with shiraz going to label,” Crappsley said. “He was also a great friend of Cyril Henschke,rubbish because it was so wet, we still got cabernet off,” Peter said. arranging a Barossa visit for us on our way home to WA. It was fantastic.”“Be it drought or floods, the vineyard holds up. It is an outstanding Back in WA he joined Jack Mann and after four years headed eastsite producing wines capable of living 20 years plus.” working at numerous wineries in SA and NSW before spending seven vintages at Basedows and then returning home. Long stints The acquisition has been crucial in the marketing strategy of direct at Evans and Tate, Sandalford and consulting led to prized industryselling catering for an A list of consistent long-term supporters. awards of the George Mulgrue and Di Cullen medals for his greatPeter turned to Margaret River because of its premium wine status, industry contribution. Now he plans to further the promoting,which he believes will only get better. He supports a comment by education and networking efforts with the Wine Press Club, the firstprominent WA scientist Dr John Gladstones who thinks some of the formed in Australia – which has decided to retain its independencehighest priced cabernets will come from the northern part of the and not join the new eastern states-based Wine Communicatorregion where Deep Woods – purchased in February 2005 – is located. group. And Crappsley has not lost his winemaking touch. A Great Southern Frankland based shiraz called Plan B has had dramatic “The first thing we did in rejuvenating the vineyard was to chop success in Finland with some 12,000 cases exported in a year.out the surrounding blue gums because we believe they add aeucalyptus character to the fruit, something like smoke taint,” Petersaid. Smithbrook, purchased in 2010, did not seem to fit in the Fogarty September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 19

briefsON THE TABLE BACK TO THE BEGINNINGSeppeltsfield has been relaunched as a table wine. While the After 24 years on Barossa Valley Way, Grant and Helen Burge haveSeppeltsfield marque has long been synonymous with iconic returned their cellar door to Krondorf Rd, the place where their wineAustralian fortified wine, this year marks the first time since the dream began. “We have finished the first stage of renovations at the oldestate’s establishment in 1851 that the name adorns a collection Krondorf winery, which features a redesigned tasting area and a newof table wines. “We are turning the Titanic,” said managing director cafe,” Burge said. He said the “homecoming” had always been part ofWarren Randall. “Our vision is to return Seppeltsfield to its artisan his long-term strategy and it was exciting that the dream was a reality.roots and evolve Australia’s greatest fortified estate into our greatest “It’s the place where I made some great wines in the 1980s and thewine estate - period.” Randall said Seppeltsfield is chasing a location has some of the best views in the Barossa,” he said. “Over thebalanced, elegant style of wine where the fruit is the hero. years Krondorf Rd has become one of the region’s premier wine strips and we’re proud to be neighbours to St Hallett, Rockford and Charles Melton, who all played a part in the revival of the Barossa in the late 1980s, so it is fitting that we are all together in this distinct sub-region.”20 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

briefsSOUR TIME 2012 A WINNERFOR SWEETIE Winemaker Tim Smith (pictured), who has been making wine forThere will be no De Bortoli Noble over 20 years, has declared the 2012 vintage in the Barossa ValleyOne from the 2012 vintage. the best he has seen. “I’m pumped by the quality of the fruit,” saysAustralia’s iconic dessert wine, Smith, who this year celebrates the first decade of wines undercreated by Darren de Bortoli his eponymous label. The Barossa had no extended periods ofthree decades ago, was a extreme heat but was consistently warm through to late Februaryvictim of the extreme weather and the baume rose quickly. Then a little rain and one downpourconditions in the Riverina, slowed ripening for 10 days. As if planned, this was followed by anwhich included heavy flooding. unseasonably dry and warm finish, which allowed vines to replenish“Patience and the hands of sugar levels and tannins in perfect timing for harvest. Smith believesMother Nature are the key to consumers are likely to see slightly lower alcohol levels from 2012;producing exceptional botrytis always a topic of debate with regard to wines from the Barossa Valley.semillon, but she had otherideas this vintage,” said seniorwinemaker Julie Mortlock (pictured). Access was heavily restricted tothe key vineyards, which were submerged for weeks in the wake of thefloods, while the ensuing humid conditions caused the botrytis cinereaand other moulds to move in rampantly. “By the time we were able toaccess the vineyards, the non-botrytis moulds were such that theywould have had a very negative impact on the quality of the wine, whilstthe botrytis had dehydrated the fruit to such an extent that there was justno juice remaining,” Mortlock said. The current vintage will mark just thesecond time the wine, winner of 120 trophies, has not been released.National Wine Sponsor for the Australian String QuartetJames Halliday 5 Star Winery9 Wines over 90 points 2012 T 08 8299 7506Cellar Door 87 King William Road Unley E [email protected] To win tickets to the ASQ like us on FacebookNational Distributors:Adelaide Festival City Wines 0402149007 | Melbourne Westwood Wines 0487946333 | Sydney Under the Covers 0403331227 |Brisbane Liquid 1300 668 736 September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 21

nzbriefswhat’s happening on the NZ wine sceneWINEMAKERS HONOURED 2012 NEW ZEALAND HARVEST MUCH LIGHTER THAN 2011TWO PRODUCERS who have played vital, long-term roles inbuilding New Zealand’s reputation for quality wine, Clive Paton THE TOTAL New Zealand grape harvest of 269,000 tonnes in(pictured left) and James Millton, featured in the Queen’s Birthday 2012 was 18 per cent lighter than 2011, very similar to 2010, andHonours list. Appointed an Officer of the NZ Order of Merit for significantly below the bumper, glut-inducing crops of 2008 andservices to the wine industry and conservation, Paton founded 2009. “Given sales growth in the past two years, the reduced cropAta Rangi, now renowned for its pinot noir, at Martinborough in will introduce a new tension to the sector’s supply/demand balance,”1980. Paton has also been deeply involved in formation of the says New Zealand Winegrowers. “It is very clear that focus in the nextAorangi Restoration Trust, to reintroduce threatened species year will be on value, rather than volume, growth.” Brancott Estate,into the Aorangi Ranges, south-east of Martinborough. Millton, in Marlborough, reported that “although the growing season hasappointed a Member of the NZ Order of Merit for services to the been the coolest experienced since the 1990s, very few rain events,wine industry, established The Millton Vineyard with his wife, clear blue skies and lighter crops have meant optimum ripenessAnnie (pictured right), at Gisborne in 1984. Five years later, Millton and flavour development have been achieved across all varieties”.became the country’s first producer to gain Bio-Gro certification A smaller, highly respected Marlborough producer says 2012 wasfor organic wine production. In 2009, it gained biodynamic “very site-specific. About 25 per cent of the fruit is excellent; the nextcertification from Demeter. 50 per cent is middle-of-the-road; and the bottom 25 per cent is poor”.HAWKE’S BAY WINERY CLOSES HAPPY BIRTHDAYPERNOD Ricard NZ has closed its Hawke’s Bay Winery following GIBBSTON VALLEY, a pioneer Central Otago winery, has celebratedits 2010 sale of such brands as Corbans, Lindauer, Saints and the 25th anniversary of the bottling of its first commercial vintage.Huntaway. Managing director Fabian Partigliani said the winery, Founded by Alan Brady, an expatriate Irishman, the company isestablished at Napier by Corbans, had recently been significantly now controlled by Nevada-based American, Philip Griffith. Theunder-utilised. The company will now consolidate its production 1987 production of pinot noir, pinot gris and a “dry white” blend ofin the region at the Church Road winery in Taradale. muller-thurgau and gewurztraminer totalled 75 cases.RECOVERY UNDERWAY? FOLEY MOVES AGAINNEAL IBBOTSON, of Saint Clair, Marlborough’s largest family- BILL FOLEY, an American multi-millionaire, is expanding his wine empireowned winery, thinks the region is about to bounce back from in New Zealand. Foley made his first move in 2009 by purchasing thethe oversupply problems caused by the bumper 2008, 2009 and New Zealand Wine Fund. The deal included the Vavasour winery,2011 vintages. “We are starting to see the first signs of recovery over 100ha of vineyards in Marlborough, and the Dashwood, Cliffordalready,” he told the Marlborough Express in June. “The first is Bay and Goldwater brands. Since then, he has acquired the luxurythe increase of the bulk wine price (from below $NZ2 per litre in Wharekauhau Lodge; part-ownership of a key wine distributor,2008 to $NZ4.50 per litre); the second is all the advertisements EuroVintage; and one of Martinborough’s largest wine producers,starting to appear from wineries looking for grapes in 2013.” Te Kairanga. Now his sights are set on the New Zealand Wine Company,However, two vineyards owned by River Farm, a company in owner of the Grove Mill and Sanctuary brands, which reported a netliquidation, sold at auction in June for $NZ2.2 million – a huge loss of $NZ3.1 million in 2011. Government approval is likely.drop from their combined purchase price in 2007 and 2009 of$NZ4.1 million. SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL MISSION Estate has released New Zealand’s first 500ml bottles of sauvignon blanc and syrah. Other producers have marketed rosé and dessert wines in the bottles (two-thirds the size of a standard 750ml), but Mission, based in Hawke’s Bay, is the first with white and red wine. The move reflects demographic research showing that New Zealanders are becoming older, more urbanised and living in smaller households. “This innovative format was created in response to the lifestyles of many of our customers,” says Mission CEO Peter Holley. “It’s ideal for a couple who like to enjoy quality wine with their meal at home, without any wastage. And it’s sure to be a picnic essential.”22 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPER CLAIM GAMEDO WINE advertisements and other forms evidence in support of their claims. The grapegrowers and winemakers, hasof promotion need closer scrutiny? A Commission would also be able to fine noted: “As a matter of routine practice,wine lover in Auckland recently grabbed companies for false or misleading claims. wineries hold substantiation for a range ofa bottle of 2011 pinot gris, swayed by its claims on everything from vintage datestrophy and gold medal stickers, awarded Last year, a retailer claimed a well- to sustainability credentials due to theat a leading competition. The wine had respected critic had rated a red as the regulatory environment they operate in.”not even won a bronze, let alone a gold, finest example of its variety ever madeat the show. The retailer was quite frank in New Zealand. He had never tasted “It would, however, be impossible- his staff apply such stickers to boost it. Confronted, the retailer claimed to to substantiate such subjective butsales, but in this case, confusing the have been misled by the producer, who necessary aspects of wine labelling aspinot gris with the producer’s top award- apologised and said the enthusiastic tasting notes. How, for example, wouldwinning sauvignon blanc, they simply review had been for the previous vintage. a producer be expected to substantiatemade a mistake. a claim that a wine had a “soft, rounded The critic hadn’t tasted that either. “The palate with delicious ripe berry fruit and Another retailer recently advertised comment related to a wine released currant flavours”. Unless restricted tothe same pinot gris, transferring a gold a decade earlier and their website specific categories of claim, there ismedal won by the 2010 vintage to the guy didn’t think that a vintage made a risk that this provision would deter2011. Again, human error is a distinct any difference. In other words, my suppliers from making any claimspossibility, but so many wines are enthusiastic comment was a tag they about their product which could not bebeing advertised in New Zealand with could use to sell the wine in perpetuity,” substantiated, even though the claimsmisleading claims about their accolades, the critic said. A Marlborough producer are likely to contribute to the consumer’sit’s likely in some cases to be intentional. recently released new, single-vineyard understanding of the product.” wines, referring on the back labels to theAn online retailer recently promoted a Hawke’s Bay chardonnay, agreeing with aprominent reviewer that the wine is “drinking beautifully”. The critic had merelystated that the 2010 wine offered “best drinking mid-2012+”. The Ministry of Consumer Affairs says establishment of the site in the 1980s. New Zealand Winegrowers argues that anytraders can “make unsubstantiated Few would miss the favourable, “old new investigative powers should be restrictedclaims with virtual impunity”, due to the vine” connotations. However, the labels to ‘risk’ areas such as environmentallegal cost of challenging them. Over on these high-priced wines failed to state claims. “The NZ wine industry has madethe past four years, the Commerce that the grapes in these wines were from a substantial investment in developingCommission has sent over 250 formal blocks within the vineyard that were both an organic standard and a nationalletters to traders, warning them about planted only a decade ago. sustainability program. In the absence ofalleged false or misleading claims, and any collective consumer understanding ofhas also sent over 600 “compliance An online retailer recently promoted terms such as ‘sustainable’ and ‘organic’,advice” letters to companies, pointing a Hawke’s Bay chardonnay, agreeing investment in legitimate programs canout their legal obligations. with a prominent reviewer that the wine be undermined by the use of terms like is “drinking beautifully”. The critic had ‘sustainably produced’ on products which The Consumer Law Reform Bill, now merely stated that the 2010 wine offered cannot substantiate the claim.”passing through Parliament, is designed “best drinking mid-2012+”. New Zealandto reduce the ease with which producers Winegrowers believes that a prohibition The good news is that the New Zealandand retailers get away with misleading on claims that cannot be substantiated Law Society and various powerful businessclaims. A major proposal – based on “would stifle promotional creativity and groups are supporting the proposal toAustralian practice - is that the Commerce result in significant additional compliance prohibit all unsubstantiated claims. AsCommission, without going to court, cost and uncertainty for suppliers, Consumer magazine has put it: “If the claimshould be able to issue substantiation with no additional consumer benefit”. can’t be supported by good information,notices, requiring traders to produce The organisation, which represents all the company shouldn’t be making it”. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 23

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWENGLISH WINES REGAIN THEIR SPARKLETHE DUST has settled on both the Queen’s A couple of months later, and a podium wines, so chardonnay and pinot noir haveDiamond Jubilee celebrations and the of English bubblies and still wines in recent years raced to top the plantingsLondon 2012 Olympics, and one of the were served during Olympic Games at chart and now account for nearly 40biggest winners has been English wine, government events and at the venue, per cent of the total vineyard area, splitand English sparkling wine, in particular. including Hush Heath Estate Balfour equally. More than half of production isThree English wines were served on the Brut Rosé 2009, Primrose Hill Bacchus now channelled into sparkling wine.royal barge as it sailed through the rain 2010 and Chapel Down English Rosédown the river Thames in June. Leading 2010. It’s probably just as well that Most-favoured still wine variety bacchussparkling wine producer Nyetimber’s vintage 2010 was the UK’s highest on is in third spot with 10 per cent of theClassic Cuvee 2007 was served along record at 3,034,600 litres. Though to put vineyard area. Then the Germanicwith still wines Pinot Blanc 2010 from into perspective the niche nature of the varieties of seyval blanc, reichensteiner,Stopham Vineyard, and the very first UK wine industry, this is a mere pimple muller-thurgau and madeleine angevineproduction from Albury Vineyard, their of a quarter of 1 per cent of Australia’s are listed, much like these sorts of varietiesSilent Pool Rosé 2011. Such is the rate of approximate 11 million hectolitre harvest. were in New Zealand before sauvignondevelopment of the English wine industry Such a marginal cool climate as the UK blanc hit the scene.that of these three only Nyetimber existed is severely subject to the vagaries ofjust five years ago. Stopham planted its the weather, which meant that 2011’s New plantings are still going in. Ex-6ha in 2007 and Albury its 5.25ha in 2009. harvest was down more than a quarter hedge fund manager Mark Driver is in theAnd such is the scale of viticulture that on 2010. Expectations are high for the process of planting 160ha at Rathfinnyboth these producers quaintly and proudly 2012 vintage, but flowering was plagued Estate, which would make his the largestcount their vineyard area in terms of the by a period of prolonged rain, which vineyard in the UK. The forecast is that thenumber of vines planted. started falling almost immediately as the UK may produce around 4 million bottles of sparkling wine by 2015. Care must beUK’s larger producers have had to turn away new taken not to call English and Welsh winesretail clients, which is something they dared not even British wines because this is a completelydream of a few years ago. different category. English and Welsh wines are made from fresh grapes grown After the last official Jubilee weekend drought orders were issued that followed in England and Wales, and produced inevent, the national service of thanksgiving an unusually dry winter and early spring. UK wineries. British wines are made inat St Paul’s Cathedral, sparkling producer Britain from imported grapes or grapeRidgeview’s Bloomsbury 2009 was served This is not looking great for replenishing concentrate. This also means British winesat the official receptions. Julia Trustram- supply. With all the pageantry and sporting are not actually wine, as defined by theEve, manager of English Wine Producers, prowess on British soil, demand has EU (European Union), which specifiesthe marketing association of the English been outstripping supply for much of that wine is the fermented product ofwine industry said: “2012 is certainly a year the year. The UK’s larger producers fresh grapes.for celebration for the English industry. have had to turn away new retail clients,In the run up to the Queen’s Diamond which is something they dared not even BREAKING WITH TRADITIONJubilee both the industry and trade saw an dream of a few years ago. Others’ winesunprecedented rise in the sales of English are on allocation. All this, despite a total On to legalities of a different nature, andwines. The British public are buying in to vineyard area two-thirds bigger than it over in France the Loire is breaking withthe top class sparkling wine that we are was a decade ago. Nonetheless, this still its tradition and beginning to evolve a crunow producing in England. Demand is amounts to just shy of 1400ha planted in system of appellations. Until last year allexceeding supply. We know that even England and Wales. This is less than in Loire appellations were on a single level.more shops, restaurants and bars are Tasmania, Australia’s very own marginal Unlike Burgundy’s vineyard classificationstocking up with our fizz to celebrate this cool climate wine growing region. Much of via its hierarchy of appellations frommomentous year.” the interest in English and Welsh wines is basic Bourgogne, through village and coming from traditional method sparkling premier cru to grand cru, and unlike Bordeaux’s classification system which overlays the appellations. Last year Muscadet introduced the first communal cru appellations. The three crus24 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

of Clisson, Gorges and Le Pallet, eachnamed after their specific geographicallocation, were approved, with another fourlocations potentially identified. Clisson ison granite, Gorges on quartz and gabbro,and Le Pallet on gneiss and gabbro.Unlike Muscadet de Sevre et Maine sur lie,which must be bottled at specific points inthe year after the harvest, the communalcrus have minimum ageing times of 18months and more. At the end of 2011, another two cruappellations, both in Anjou, were passedinto law. Quarts de Chaume becamea Grand Cru appellation and Coteauxdu Layon Chaume became a PremierCru appellation. Quarts de Chaume isa 50ha appellation on schist around thevillage of Chaume, recognised since1954. Grand Cru can be added to thename from the 2010 vintage, makingit the Loire’s first Grand Cru. The newCoteaux du Layon Premier Cru Chaumeis adjacent to Quarts de Chaume.Both these appellations lie within thebigger, straightforward Coteaux du Layonappellation which covers some 1400ha,all on the banks of the river Layon, atributary of the river Loire. Sweet wines, often but not exclusivelywith botrytis, from chenin blanc, arethe preserve of all three appellations. Aclear, quality-suggestive hierarchy hasbeen instigated, though as with thesethings, quality is so often at the behestof the individual producer. Such thingsas permitted yields, grape ripeness onharvest, the banning of chaptalisationand the phasing out of cryoextractionare all legislated. The introduction,even on such an ad hoc basis, of thebeginnings of an appellation hierarchy inthe Loire Valley is a huge departure fromits previously egalitarian foundation, butfits with that most French of conceptsof terroir – that one patch of land canproduce distinctive and different winesfrom another patch.

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY COMING OF AGEWINE is a glorious way to celebrate a often confused with an oaked wine. Riesling shiraz. Internationally, Bordeaux takes themilestone, be it a birthday, wedding is another option for extended ageing. These cake for cabernet sauvignon and merlot,anniversary or new arrival to the family. pick up similar aromas as semillon as well as while the Northern Rhone is home to syrah.It can be a spontaneous act of bravado, kerosene or petrol. France’s sauternes is the Barolo and barbaresco are Italy’s best betsplashing out on an expensive bottle of fizz leading region for this style and they can age for ageing, although the style has beenor it might be a well-thought-out plan with the beautifully, still drinking well after 20 years in modernised over recent years and it mightwine being purchased many years before a good vintage. The key again is their high not be as age-worthy as it once was. Barolothe event and nursed carefully in a cool, acidity. Our own Riverina examples also have is an enigma, it can display roast meats,dark cellar or swish, swanky wine cabinet. some longevity. When they get a couple of roses, herbs, licorice or raisins. Valpolicella decades under their belt they become more amarone or recioto is worth a mention with Uncorking an aged wine can be a savoury, nutty and dryer. I’d also recommend some spectacular aged wines showing lovelychallenging proposition and once open they 5 or 6 Puttonyos Tokaji from Hungary. dried fruit and richness.pose a few risks. When friends share theirspecial bottles with me and we cautiously Delicious French Vouvray, made from chenin Wines undergo complex changes in thesip their wine, I see that apprehensive look blanc, from the Loire Valley can last for up to bottle. Chemical reaction such as hydrolysison their face as they ask: “is it OK?” and, 30 years. With high acidity and often some which releases a flavour precursor called“should it taste like this?” The truth is, far botrytis characters, either demi-sec or sweet glycosides occurs slowly. Colour andtoo many people like and drink young wine, in style, the wine is concentrated with custard tannins fall out of the wine as sediment in aand when confronted with an aged winethey find it is not to their taste. However, Red wines suitable for going the long haul includethe opportunity to open an old bottle is shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, nebbiolo, some merlotwhat separates wine from other beverages as well as blends of the above and obscure varietiesbecause it is such a unique experience. such as aglianico and tannat. Red wine is the most common special apple, honey, apricot and lanolin flavours. If process called polymerization. Esterificationoccasion wine, but there are other options. you have a sweet tooth the dessert wines from will occur when acid and alcohol react withFor example, a good quality vintage the Loire such as Quarts de Chaume are also each other and produce bottle aged esterssparkling wine or, better still, champagne age worthy but hard to come by in Australia. with distinctive aromas, which at their mostis one option. In my experience a Blanc advanced and unattractive stage, smellde Blanc style (made from 100 per cent With the exception of chablis, chardonnay like nail polish remover. The esterificationchardonnay) can last for up to 20 years. can only aspire to medium-term cellaring, process softens a wine’s acidity.These wines will have higher levels of acidity but if you want to try ageing them it is prudentwhich is a key to its longevity. What you will to choose a barrel fermented wine over one So as the wine ages the primary fruitfind on tasting mature champagne, is that it that is fermented then transferred to barrel, aromas and tannins become more discreet,has lost a touch of its sparkle but will have and one that has only limited malolatic tertiary aromas start to appear such asgained weight/body and have toasty, honey fermentation. There are exceptions, with cigar box, leather, medicinal, earthy, coffee,notes. The oldest champagne I’ve tasted some Beechworth chardonnays clearly mushroom, caramel, roasted nuts, toasty,was a 1945 and it had only a whisper of fizz drinking well at the 10-year mark. licorice, prune, dried fruits and truffle.left inside and was really like drinking an oldwhite wine, but still enjoyable. Red wines suitable for going the long haul A final suggestion would be vintage port include shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, nebbiolo, as a wine to age. These wines of the Douro White wines are another option, especially some merlot as well as blends of the above Valley in Portugal are made with the expressunwooded styles. Admittedly, they are not and obscure varieties such as aglianico and purpose of ageing in the bottle for 15 to 20often the “prestige” labels, but still offer tannat. Not all cabernet sauvignon or shiraz years where they display dried fruit, prunes,excellent cellaring opportunities at a fraction will age well. Some tried and tested regions chocolate and earthy aromas. Australianof the cost of most red wines. First and and styles that mature well include: Yarra “vintage” is often richer and requires evenforemost is Hunter Valley semillon, a wine that Valley and Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon, longer to mature, and is a suitable birthdaycan effortlessly age for up to 20 years. They Hunter, Barossa, Clare and Eden Valley wine for even old chaps like me.retain their acidity well and can still taste zestywith flavours of lemon zest or curd, lanolin,honey and toast. In blind tastings they are26 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012



winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGGIVE PEACE CITY A CHANCEGENEVA basks in its role as peace capital narrow passageways, cobbled streets, tiny garanoir and gamaret. The move paid offof the world. The home of a cluster of courtyards and 17th century squares. Pricey and the annual Caves Ouvertes festival,international organisations, including the boutiques line the Rue du Rhone and the Rue literally open cellars, takes place in mid-Red Cross, the World Health Organisation du Marche, flogging fashions, antiques and May. Once a local shindig, the event nowand World Trade Organisation, I’ve always watches. John Calvin once thundered from attracts thousands of wine lovers from allviewed the city as a bit of a drive-by place. the pulpit of St Pierre cathedral during the over Switzerland and France.A 24-hour stopover to re-acquaint myself Reformation and the fairly fit can climb thewith La Vielle Ville, the historic old town, and 157 steps in the north tower to experience I’ve always loved the Vaud region for thethe Jet d’Eau, the world’s tallest fountain. one of the most stunning views of the city sort of breathtaking scenery that iPhoneWhat’s changed? Two of my best friends and the Saleve, the mountain that looms in snaps can never hope to do justice to. Worldnow live in Geneva and over the past few the back of the majority of picture postcards. Heritage-listed for its picture-perfect wineyears I’ve spent several weeks exploring villages and terraced vineyards that dateits unspoiled mediaeval architecture, Geneva has its fair share of fine arts back to the 11th century, the area is also verymuseums and the breathtaking wine museums, but the ones that really can’t be popular for hiking and biking from springcountry just beyond the city limits. missed are: the Tavel House, a 14th century through autumn. Two small trains weave mediaeval mansion-cum-time capsule, the through the mosaic-patterned vineyards Geneva’s bureaucratic image is fairly Musee Voltaire where the great French - the Lavaux Express and the Lavauxrecent. Switzerland’s reputation as a tax philosopher once lived and the Fondation Panoramic. They are so dinky because mosthaven may have played a major part in luring Martin Bodmer, one of the most important visitors prefer to saunter across the networkcelebrities, movie stars and dictators to buy private libraries in the world. Over 160,000 of trails that snake through the landscape tosecond homes in the country, but the sheer exhibits are on show from an Egyptian enjoy the spectacular views of Lake Genevabeauty of one of Western Europe’s largest Book of the Dead to cuneiform tablets and and the Alps. You can stop at wineries alongfreshwater lakes has sealed many a deal. a Gutenberg bible. the way, but the hi-tech Vinorama in the small village of Rivaz allows you to sampleOne of real pleasures of staying longer in Geneva lies 200 wines from the surrounding wineries -outside the city in the surrounding wine country. big and small. The best route is the Grand Traversee de Lavaux, a 35km trail that linksLe Manoir de Ban, Charlie Chaplin’s idyllic One of the real pleasures of staying the Chateau de Chillon to Lausanne.hideaway, looks much as it did when the great longer in Geneva lies outside the city in thecomedian lived there. Although the tranquillity surrounding wine country. The Swiss have La Cote is the ritziest section of theis sure to be shattered next year when the made enormous progress in improving the Lavaux wine country, boasting 32 chateauxmulti-million dollar Charlie Chaplin Museum quality of their wines since the 1980s. The scattered like film sets among the vineyards.opens on the site (chaplinmuseum.com). vineyards surrounding Geneva have six Many of them have been turned into luxury appellations and there’s certainly a lot to learn hotels such as the Chateau Rochefort in With so many visitors brandishing about Swiss wines from unfamiliar varietals Allaman and the Domaine du Burignon incorporate credit cards, Geneva is crammed such as dole, humagne and comallin to a St Saphorin. One of the most celebratedwith luxury hotels. The five-star Hotel Les new monicker for pinot gris - or Malvoisie as restaurants in Switzerland - Restaurant deArmures (hotel-les-armures.com) is in the it is known in French-speaking Switzerland. L’Hotel de Ville Crissier (philippe-rochat.centre of the old town and its guestbook ch)- is nearby. Founded by legendary chefripples with famous names, including Thirty years ago, growers, vignerons Fredy Girardet, his successor PhilippeGeorge Clooney, Hillary Clinton and soccer and the local canton government teamed Rochat has not only retained the restaurant’ssuperstar, Pele. If you don’t want to pay up to propel Switzerland’s third-largest Michelin three-star rating, it is ranked 14th$450 or more per night, the Hotel La Cour wine-growing area back to respectability. on San Pellgrino’s 2012 World’s 50 Bestdes Augustins (lacourdesaugustins.com) Hectares of chasselas and gamay grapes Restaurants list. A short drive away you’llis a four-star designer hotel where prices were uprooted and the vineyards were re- find Le Pont de Brent (lepontdebrent.ch).start at close to half that rate. planted with 40 varietals. Some were new Although it rates a less stellar Michelin to the region such as cabernet sauvignon, two-star rating, chef Stephane Decotterd’s The outer suburbs of Geneva may be riddled merlot, pinot noir and chardonnay, and exquisite menu listings are only a shadewith standard-issue modern architecture, others were classic Swiss grapes such as less expensive because of his shooting starbut the old town is a charming network of status. Perfection on a plate.28 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

So you thought HeathcoteWas just about Shiraz? Thinking Outside The Square www.burrumboot.com

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE L SIMON IN AUSTRALIA - PART ONEPROLIFIC writer and bon viveur, French- Wine and Food Society of Victoria. November 7, 1963 Gibson wrote toborn Englishman Andre Simon had two A tribute to Gibson noted that although Jeffery Penfold-Hyland, an industrymain purposes in coming to Australia. other members of the Society met and leader who at the time was with PenfoldsThey were to meet as many as possible entertained Simon, “none were able to in New South Wales: “I understand frommembers in Australia of the Wine and muster the organisational forces or skills Andre that through the good offices ofFood Society, which he had founded in to the extent of Victor”. Sir James McGregor you are suggestingLondon in 1933, and, more importantly, a program for his tour of Australia. It isto give him an opportunity to write In his second autobiography, In the to me a thing of some wonder that at hisa book about the wines of Australia. twilight, Simon wrote that “he had age Monsieur Simon should undertake toSo, at the age of 86, and widowed but one friend in Australia…Sir Jim write a book on the Wines of Australia.in April 1963 after 63 years of happy McGregor, a dear friend of my wife’s I understand that the wine industry inmarriage, Simon set sail for Australia and myself for thirty years”. Elsewhere Australia has at some times in the pastand New Zealand aboard the P&O liner, he described McGregor as “the magnet been irked by Andre Simon’s referencesSS Canberra, arriving in Melbourne on that drew me to Australia!” McGregor to Australian Wine but he assured meFriday, December 13, 1963. was a leading figure in the Australian that he has a favourable predisposition wool industry, a lover and collector of to them now and that he only wants Members of the various branches fine arts, and a former trustee of the to write a book if he can write aboutof the Society in Australia and New Art Gallery of New South Wales. Unlike pleasant things”. How embarrassingZealand organised numerous functions Gibson, a bachelor, he was also a man it could have been if Simon had beenfor Simon, including winery visits and “with a real genius for friendship”. Like unhappy with the quality of the winescountless meals in private homes Gibson, he was noted for his lavish he was bombarded with during his visit.and in hotels and restaurants. He dinner parties at his Sydney home.It is to me a thing of some wonder that at his age Monsieur Simon shouldundertake to write a book on the Wines of Australia.experienced the great Aussie barbecue Gibson set out in a letter (September The first draft itinerary of the 10-weekat least once. Fortunately for today’s 23, 1963) to Fergus Canny, president tour was to undergo many changesresearchers, his visit was in the days of the Wine and Food Society of New before it was finalised. Much time waswhen letter writing was the norm, South Wales, the first draft of a possible to be spent in New South Wales andand the correspondence records of itinerary for Simon. He emphasised Victoria – not surprising consideringthe Society, preserved in the State that the reason for Simon spending they were the home states of the twoLibrary of South Australia, provide a two months in Australia was to write a main organisers. Adelaide “is easilytantalising glimpse of the visit and the book. Gibson was well aware of Simon’s the largest wine producing area inpreparations for it. occasionally unfavourable opinions of Australia and you would need to spend Australian wines. “As you know, Andre considerable time here”, wrote Gibson. Two people were largely responsible has been regarded in the past by the Queensland was considered “not yetfor organising the great man’s time in wine producers as somewhat of an enfant important enough for you to visit”. ThereAustralia – Melbourne-based Victor terrible because some of his publications was no time for “a comprehensive visit”Gibson, president of the Wine and Food have been most uncomplimentary to to Western Australia and Tasmania wasSociety of Australia, and Sir James Australian wines. However, he is now not even mentioned because the wineMcGregor, of Sydney. Gibson had been predisposed to like them,” he wrote. industry there had hardly begun. Initially,“André’s man in Australia” for many New Zealand was omitted, but this wasyears. Described as “a born leader with This was not the only reference to rectified a few weeks later when Simona wonderful ability to command respect Simon’s impressions of Australian wrote to Gibson saying that he hadand induce enthusiasm in others”, he wines. Gibson had recently returned forgotten to tell him that he had promisedhad founded the Society in Australia from London where he had discussed to visit “our New Zealand friends”.and had earlier, in 1956, begun the with Simon his forthcoming visit. On30 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012



The changing face of Indian wine

India is also a growing wine in restaurants and bars and atpresence in global social gatherings. Some women are alsomarkets, with Indian attracted by the much talked about healthwines becoming a and well-being benefits of wine.regular appearance atinternational wine fairs Despite the difficulties of pairing wineand wine competitions. with Indian food – at least for conventional wine drinkers – wine is increasingly beingIT’S BEEN A 20-YEAR JOURNEY BUT INDIA’S featured in restaurants serving traditionalWINE INDUSTRY IS FINALLY BLOSSOMING. foods, confirming the transition to a major and sustainable segment in theDENIS GASTIN on-premise market. Domestic wines are leading in this regard.IF YOU’VE BEEN TO THE MOVIES Rajeev Samant, founder and CEO of Sula, expects the market to grow at a In fact, local wines have progressedlately there’s a fair chance you will have minimum of 25 per cent year-on-year for over the past 20 years from very muchcaught a glimpse of the Indian wine culture the next 25 years. a market oddity to a market norm.“in action”. In two recent movies set in Locally produced wines now account forIndia and widely shown in this part of the Traditionally, wine was mostly enjoyed somewhere between 80 per cent and 90world, the wines fussed over by staff in a either by tourists, some business per cent of all wine consumed in India.restaurant and poured for guests are from executives with their foreign guests, and For many drinkers, including the youngerSula Vineyards, India’s largest domestic a few locals with international tastes – folk, domestic labels are now “cool”.wine producer. In Exotic Marigold Hotel, and generally in international hotels and They represent the core of the rising wineboth red and white Sula wines are poured; Western-style restaurants. But, in recent bar movement, once something you hadin Trishna, a Sula sparkling wine appears years, wine consumption has extended to travel to a wine region to enjoy butto celebrate an occasion. way beyond this, to the more affluent increasingly becoming part of the social cosmopolitan younger generations scene in the cities. This is a good indication of where and, increasingly, Indian women. Awine fits in the social order these days. Delhi-based marketing company, There are now 82 wineries formallyWine still accounts for a minor share of AM Mindpower Solutions, says that recognised by the Indian Grapetotal alcohol consumption, but demand over the past five years the growth in Processing Board. Of these, 69 are inhas been growing by between 15 per wine consumption among women has the central-west State of Maharashtra,cent and 25 per cent a year in recent almost doubled the rate of growth in inland from Mumbai. More than half oftimes. Industry optimists see this is just consumption among men. Women are these (in fact almost half of all of India’sthe start. A senior executive of a major drinking more wine because they see it wineries) are in the district of Nashik,local retail chain told the Times of India as a sophisticated drink, compared with now the undisputed capital of the localrecently he expects that wine will emerge the traditional options of spirits and beer, wine scene. Another concentration inas the single largest segment in liquor and they feel more comfortable drinking Maharashtra is around the city of Pune.retailing in a relatively short span of time. The other 13 wineries on the official list are in the bordering south-western State of Karnataka. Among the locally produced wines the dominant varieties are sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc and ugni blanc for the white and sparkling wines and shiraz (syrah) and zinfandel for the reds. However, it is now also possible to find local wine labels featuring white wines from chardonnay, viognier, riesling and semillon, and red wines from cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec, tempranillo, sangiovese, nebbiolo, grenache and cinsault. And there are at least two local varieties – arkavati and akeshyam – being used in modern wine styles. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 33

Reflecting the rising connection of members special wine selections and wine from the Wine & Spirits Education Trustmodern lifestyles and drinking wine, Sula news. There are also now wine education (WSET) Level 1 and 2 to other tailor-madeVineyards opened a very stylish 50-seater programs, both for those seeking careers sessions, including the formal Australianwine bar in Mubai’s trendy Worli district in in the industry as well as for inquisitive Wine course overseen by Wine Australia.April this year, building on the outstanding consumers, and a growing fraternity ofsuccess of the wine bars it operates at its formally trained sommeliers. The Institute India is also a growing presence in globalhome base in Nashik. Called Bar Vinoteca, of Wine and Beverage Studies (IWBS), for markets, with Indian wines becomingit is inspired by Spanish tavernas and example, is a centre for wine information a regular appearance at internationalserves a range of tapas and pintxos, with and learning, based in Delhi. It was set up wine fairs and wine competitions. Thea versatile wine selection from both Sula by Wi-Not Beverage Solutions, a provider contemporary wine industry pioneer,and some international producers. Most of of a wide range of services to the industry Indage, was first to go international with itsthe dishes are made from fresh seasonal and consumers. The prime identity in sparkling wines. But Sula was very quicklyproduce and organic ingredients sourced this venture is Magandeep Singh, India’s into this frame and, for them, the US was thefrom Sula’s own gardens. Sula has plans first French-certified sommelier and a logical early focus, given Samant’s long stintto open wine bars in other cities, with the prominent media figure; among the team is working in California before returning to hisnext one to be in Goa. Gagan Sharma, who has a Masters degree homeland to start the wine business. Now in Hospitality Management (majoring in it is the UK which is the focus for outward- Among the other drivers of the growing wine) from Melbourne’s Victoria University. looking Indian producers, building on theconsumption trend is the emergence of Various course formats are made available; impressive start paved by Sula and Indage.wine clubs in some major cities offering Their early target was Indian restaurants,34 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

hoping to encourage patrons to want to wine pioneer, Grover Vineyards, has relied Another new Maharashtra winery, Yorkmatch Indian food with Indian wine – and in French wine identity, Michel Rolland, as Winery, presents a different link with Australia.to build a broader consumer allegiance this its principal consultant for 16 years on the The winemaker, Kailash Gurnani, a youngerway. Now Indian wines are available in the technical aspects in the evolution of this member of the family that established andretail liquor mainstream in the UK. Leading quality brand. operates this winery, is a graduate of thesupermarket retailer, Waitrose, for example, University of Adelaide’s oenology program.added Indian wines to its portfolio late last When Samant launched Sula in the mid-year, kicking off with a viognier and a syrah, 1990s he linked with distinguished Californian A very new large-scale premium operationfrom recently established wineries Ritu and wine maker, Kerry Damskey, and hence in Maharashtra State, Fratelli Wines, is aZampa respectively. the intense focus on the zinfandel variety in collaborative venture between three pairs this operation. More recently, some major of brothers – from two Indian families and There is a reverse international connection, international industry players have committed an Italian family. Together the team hastoo. Long the domain of local entrepreneurs to producing wines locally, in order escape built a modern winery and planted 97ha ofwith a wine passion, there has always been the onerous import duty and liquor tax vineyards around the town of Akluj, 190kma substantial foreign influence in the pattern impositions from which local producers are south of Pune, in Maharashtra State.and the detail of the emergence of the local exempt. Among them are big names such aswine industry. Indage based its model on Pernod Ricard and Moet Hennessy – both of This is just the start. There is a lot moreChampagne, and all the early viticultural which are drawing heavily on their Australian in the pipeline.work and winery design work was done by and New Zealand operations for viticulturalFrench experts. Likewise, Karnataka State’s and winemaking expertise. Left to right: Sula vineyard grape picking. Vinoteca by Sula, spanish tapas and wine bar. Rajeev Samant founder and CEO of Sula Vineyards. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 35

DESPITE ITS LENGTHY HISTORY OF WINEMAKING, HAWKE’S BAY GROWERS ARE STILL DECIDING IF THEY SHOULD PROMOTE A FLAGSHIP WINE OR CELEBRATE THE REGION’S DIVERSITY. SETTLING ON A STYLE WE NEED TO MAKE HAWKE'S BAY SYNONYMOUS WITH A SELECTION OF QUALITY WINES AND NOT A STAND-ALONE FLAGSHIP WINE.MICHAEL COOPER contracted to 145; plantings had climbed chardonnays of coastal Te Awanga and to 4993ha of bearing vines; and yields the sturdy, savoury merlots of The BridgeN AMED B Y CAPTA IN COOK had fallen to 7.1 tonnes/ha. “Wineries are Pa Triangle, Hawke's Bay offers a highly increasing their control of the grape supply,” stimulating selection of wines. But does theafter Admiral Edward Hawke - whose victory Buck notes. “Plantings continue to increase region have a flagship style?over a French fleet in 1759 prevented an and yields are lowering.”invasion of Britain - Hawke's Bay has a Winemakers in the Bay have long debatedlong history of winemaking in its warm, Gone are the days - 25 years ago - when the issue of whether they should identifysunny climate and a reputation for stylish the typical Hawke's Bay vineyard was a a single style as their flagship, or promotechardonnay, syrah and claret-style reds. ‘fruit salad’ of varieties planted on the most the region’s diversity. And should the major fertile soils. Today, everyone agrees that established styles – chardonnay, claret-style “An all-out drive for quality,” is how Nicholas Hawke's Bay is a notably versatile wine reds and syrah – be promoted with referenceBuck, of Te Mata Estate, who is also chairman region, able to produce a wide array of to their most successful sub-regions, orof Hawke's Bay Winegrowers, describes the styles from diverse local climates and soils. should the benefits of regional blending belatest developments in the country’s second- highlighted? Buck believes that “Hawke'slargest wine region. To illustrate the point, From the powerful, firmly structured, Bay’s key wine style is full-bodied redshe compares a few basic statistics from claret-style blends and syrahs of the (merlot and cabernet sauvignon and their2007 and 2011. Hawke's Bay in 2007 had Gimblett Gravels, to the aromatic, crisp blends, along with syrah). From 2007 to 2011,67 wine producers, 186 growers, 4665ha of sauvignon blancs and pinot gris from the New Zealand’s export sales of these varietiesbearing vines, and an average grape yield of elevated, inland Matapiro district; from increased by 48 per cent. More than 85 per9 tonnes/ha. By 2011, the number of wineries the floral, supple pinot noirs of the Central cent of this is Hawke's Bay wine.”had surged to 91; the ranks of growers had Hawke's Bay hills to the vibrant, elegant36 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

Johnny La Trobe, of Sacred Hill, awarded noirs are too big – they taste like syrahs. and the Heretaunga Plains, through thethe title of Hawke's Bay Young Viticulturist The winemakers tell me they are ‘show’ Gimblett Gravels and Bridge Pa Triangleof the Year for 2012, says the region has wines. Robert Parker (the US wine guru) winegrowing districts, past a host of winerytoo many outstanding styles that are well encourages these big, heavy wines and his cellar doors. Also attracting tourists - andestablished to try to select a flagship. “We influence spills over into Hawke's Bay. At locals - are events run by Hawke's Bayneed to embrace our different terroirs and Leoville-Barton and our other chateaux, we Boutique Winemakers, a group of owner-work with them,” he says. “We need to make pick the grapes earlier, with higher acidity, operated wineries that each produce fewerHawke's Bay synonymous with a selection of which helps the wines to mature well.” than 10,000 cases per year. Their monthlyquality wines and not a stand-alone flagship “Meet the Makers” events, usually heldwine.” Further advice was offered recently For wine tourists, two recent projects will at a member’s cellar door, are mini wineby Damien Barton-Sartorius, who spent enhance Hawke's Bay’s appeal. Roys Hill and food festivals. You can chat with thetwo months in Hawke's Bay, working the Reserve opened in March on the site of a winemakers while tasting their wines -vintage at Te Mata Estate. He adopted a low former quarry and landfill, which has lately mostly single-vineyard bottlings.profile during his stay, but his family owns been planted with 6000 native trees. FromChateau Leoville-Barton, one of the greatest the top of the hill, visitors can enjoy sweeping Left: Winemaker Chris Scott, who joined Churchvineyards in Bordeaux. Barton-Sartorius views across the Gimblett Gravels - rivers, Road in 1998, produces strikingly rich, complexbelieves New Zealand reds (in the past orchards, olive groves and vineyards. chardonnays, syrahs and cabernet/merlots.justifiably criticised for being thin and under- Above: The atmospheric Tom McDonald Cellar atripe) are now often “too heavy, reflecting Running along the base of the hill will be Church Road, in Hawke’s Bay, is used for culturalover-ripe grapes. Even some of the pinot a new Wineries Ride cycle way. Off-road, events and winemakers’ dinners. the 36km path is designed to offer a safe way to travel along riverside stopbanks HAWKES BAY TASTING STARTS PAGE 130. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 37

DFDEIENLAIAVKLEILNRYS ON THE BANKS OF THE MURRAY AN AUSTRALIAN WINERY IS SHOWING THE REST OF THE WORLDHOW TO MAKE TROPHY WINES THAT RETAIL AT THE CHEAPER END OF THE MARKET.PATRICK HADDOCKWHEN AN AUSTRALIAN blend that far exceeds the normal qualityS PA R K L I N G won the only trophy at the of a $12 bubbly. Dr Spillman is a humble and practical man, constantly evolving theLondon International Wine Show recently it house style and ensuring that every wine inwas in esteemed company of Champagne the portfolio delivers varietal integrity, brighthouses like Mumm, Taittinger and Piper fruit and, of course, great value.Heidseick. It caused astonishment that itonly retailed for $12. Eyebrows were raised As I flew above the mighty Murray aseven further when it was announced that it snaked its way through the patchworkit was made by none other than Deakin of brown and red fields it was a soberingEstate. Yes, a big producer from the Murray reminder of the fight for water and whatDarling making trophy winning wines of a vital resource it continues to be. Thecomplexity. Could it really be possible? Murray is flowing freely at present but it still had not rained properly for three months, The answer to that is yes, and it’s credit due hence the brown and dry vineyards thatto winemaker Dr Phil Spillman who is crafting would normally be a lush green. It’s furtherwines of surprising detail at the value end of credit to the team at Deakin Estate thatthe market. Sure, wine snobs and geeks are they still manage to use their resources wellnot going to gravitate to them but to a loyal (including water they need for irrigation) andflock of consumers, Deakin Estate constantly continue to tend a multitudinous network ofoffers wines that kick way above their weight. vineyards and orchards full of avocados and citrus trees. This is no small operation, That Azahara Sparkling, for instance, is over 400ha, crushing annually 25,000the result of a solera system that uses six tonnes (including their contract crush work),past vintages of base chardonnay and pinotnoir fruit and the yeast lees to make a final38 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

they are classically finished but with a bright personality.producing over 375,000 cases that are soldin over 30 countries around the world. Since 2008 the company has been ownedby Spain’s Freixenet, which purchasedthe Wingara group, including KatnookEstate. Although one of the priorities is onpremium quality wines from Coonawarra,there’s no doubt that Deakin is an integraloperation for the business. I asked CEODiego Jimenez just how much focus is puton Deakin within the group: “It’s very important for us as it providesscale and critical mass in domestic andexport markets, but above all that, we reallybelieve in the quality and the fact that somuch care goes into the product,” he said. Yet it’s not just grapes, citrus fruit is grownto be supplied for use in orange juice, asJimenez attests: “It is not our core business,but it is nice to have diversity on the estate.Fruit ripens at different times of the yearto the grape harvest so keeps the estateproductive all year around.”

One of the ways Spillman and his team of soil types and clones. Various areas have waste products, barely using chemicalshave been able to change the direction been highlighted to be better performing or pesticides and boosting the ecosystemin the wine’s quality has been by getting or producing different tannins or flavour where possible.back to the vineyard and really analysing compounds so they can pinpoint the bestwhat they can do to the soil and the vine performing fruit and then blend according Craig Thornton, who has been vineyardcanopy to ensure the fruit concentration to the nuances of certain blocks. manager at Deakin for over a decade,is optimised. This has included cutting shares with me the sustainable soil regimeback the canopy as well as employing Sustainability has been on the agenda as we wander the estate. He’s committedminimal irrigation to ensure the vines work for a number of years and they now have to making a difference: “We enhance theharder. On top of this, laser work has also a vigorous system in place, including water soil by having a soil system that continuallybeen used in finding the best sites in the management, boosting the soils health cycles organic matter during the wintervineyards to gain a greater understanding by planting seeds between rows to boost months via a green manure crop that has nitrogen content, as well as reduction of large bulk matter, as well as the mulching40 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

of vine prunings. As most mechanical And with 2012 being Dr Spillman’s eighth with his team and is hands on with decisionsactivities occur during the spring to year, he believes it’s the best vintage from winemaking to product design. He’sautumn months, this organic matter acts he’s seen yet, allowing him to make focused on growing the domestic marketas a natural compaction inhibitor. This input wines that are not just confected fruit and with GFC-affected Europe and Northhelps the vines to explore the soil with good bombs, but loaded with varietal charm America being tougher markets he, like soroot density and to reduce run-off of water and crafted to shine. As he explains: many others, is turning to the burgeoningcausing erosion.” “We follow what I consider to be a premium growth in China and other emerging Asian winemaking protocol here, including trial- markets. As he comments: “China is the Just driving through the vineyards it was based, continuous improvement programs, fastest growing export market for Australiaclear to see the attention to detail that had which have over the years allowed us and third largest in the world for bottledgone into vine and canopy management. to stay abreast of important technical Australian product. Its proximity to AustraliaThornton was optimistic by the fact that developments, and we refine the house is a significant advantage in increasing thethe Darling was flowing well, with run style according to customer feedback, frequency and reducing the cost (comparedoffs aiding the growth of new gum trees, competitor tasting and our own creativity. to Europe and the Americas) of visiting andthere were positive signs that wildlife was With a well-equipped, modern 15,000 tonne servicing these markets”.prospering and that the area was in a state winery, adjacent to large, self-managedof complete regeneration. vineyards, I don't believe we're forced to There’s no doubt that Deakin have their compromise on quality any more than a heads firmly screwed on, with a sensible A full tasting of the Deakin Wines premium winery of one-tenth the size.” domestic and export distribution plan,revealed the attention to detail that Dr wines that deliver on their promise asSpillman goes to across the range. It’s Jimenez, Wingara’s CEO, whose family well as commitment to sustainablebeen an interesting learning curve for the owns Spain’s Freixenet Group is clearly viticulture and farming. It puts them inman who was previously at Villa Maria for optimistic and pleased with the Australian a promising place for future growth andthree years; he has a fastidious attention side of the business. It’s clear that as perhaps even more trophies.to detail and in recent years, the wines, someone who has worked in Spain, Argentinaaccording to him are “softer and more and America, Jimenez is smitten with the Left to right: Deakin water tank, Murray River, Deakinpolished - appealing to any wine drinker”. Australian wine industry and the desire to Estate winermaker Dr Phil Spillman & citrus trees.He believes there is a strong character grow the domestic market with new productin Deakin wines: “They are classically developments. He shares a good rapport RIVER REGIONS TASTING STARTS PAGE 124.finished but with a bright personality”. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 41

THE MENBEHIND

JENI PORTP E N F O L D S G R A N G E is a wine that could have -should have - died in its infancy. Born in 1951, just seven years later its creator MaxSchubert was ordered to cease production. The wine wasn'tselling and the controversy and criticism surrounding it wasproving harmful to the company's image. Of course, Grange Hermitage (as it was then known)continued to be made in secret such was the faith thatSchubert had in the wine. It took 10 years for Grange toeventually be accepted and lauded which, coincidentally, isthe minimum time in bottle before the shiraz-dominant winestarts to show some maturity and its developing personality. All it needed was time. Schubert always kept his faith, always abided by hisoriginal Grange winemaking philosophy which, to theconstant amazement of outsiders, has remained ever trueover the decades. Penfolds winemakers and viticulturistshave come and gone but all have religiously followedSchubert's way. There is no ego allowed with Grange,no fiddling around the edges and definitely no bowing towhatever wine trend might be going around. Of course, that doesn't mean Grange has ceased to becontroversial. It hasn't, but then isn't debate and discussionessential to any great wine? And so the first and last word on Grange belongs, asalways, to Max Schubert (1915-1994): “I would like toexpress the hope that the production and the acceptance ofGrange Hermitage as a great Australian wine have provedthat we in Australia are capable of producing wines equalto the best in the world.”EDITOR’S NOTE –When considering our 250th issue, we decided to lookback to one of our most interesting reads from our inauguralyear, 1978, featuring an interview with the legendary MaxSchubert. This led us to ask the question - what’s it beenlike for the chief winemakers who took over the mantle fromthe man himself -the true men behind Grange. In the following pages Winestate reprints an excerpt ofan original interview with Max conducted by Peter Simic inour June 1978 issue. (The full article plus a reprint of theiconic ‘world-first’ vertical of Grange tasting conducted byWinestate in ’78 will be available for our subscribers onour website www.winestate.com.au). This is followed bycurrent interviews conducted by Jeni Port with Don Ditter,John Duval, Peter Gago and finishing with the man that hasseen it all, John Bird.The legacy of Max Schubert, the father of Grange,has seen only a chosen few follow in his footsteps.

In the following pages Winestate reprints an excerpt of an original interview with Max conducted by Peter Simic in our June 1978 issue.44 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

1 9 5 1 1 9 5 2 1 9 5 3 1 9 5 5 1 9 6 2 1 9 6 3WINESTATE: Is Grange the greatest we get, with maturation, maximum flavour, And the Grange fruit is from aAustralian red wine? character, what have you. particular area?MAX SCHUBERT: Well, that is a very difficult Granges have to be a certain style or they Well, I’ll go so far as to say this: youquestion for me to answer. It’s got a tremendous won’t last. They’ve always been designed cannot make a Grange from just anyshow record, and these are the wines made to last for 20 years -minimum. And you bloody hermitage, from any vineyard.available to the public. I don’t know of any cannot do that if you have a light bodied You’ve got to be selective. In fact, whenother dry red that has won as many awards. wine initially. It will just die a natural death, I first made Grange I surveyed almostDoes that answer your question? after about 10 to 12 years. every vineyard in South Australia. AndI’ve had people, well-known people, look So, what’s the most important thing a there was a double purpose in this. I wasat Granges and I’m quoting them: it’s the wine for long life? Fruit? trying to find some varieties that werebest wine they’ve seen. The fruit is very important - where it comes brought out during the pioneering stageGranges have won 111 gold medals in from; the analytical make-up of the fruit; its and have been more or less forgotten. Ishows, 63 silvers and 33 bronzes, 26 trophies ability to impart body in the wine. did find one or two.and six championship awards, maybe seven When you say analytical make-up, what Would you like to mention them?or eight now. There are three Jimmy Watson do you mean? There’s one variety in particular whichtrophies, in 1964, 1966 and 1968. Well, we won’t use that term. But the fruit hasn’t been identified, to my knowledgeThat’s surprising. The Jimmy Watson has to be right for the particular style anyway, and it’s well worth going aheadtrophy is for a young red wine. Surely of wine we’re making. And it depends with because it’s a black grape but thethe Granges are too raw at an early age? what style you’re making as to when skin has very little pigmentation in it. YouThe wines winning Jimmy Watson’s today are you bring the fruit in. There’s also the get a juice that’s almost water white if youfar advanced. They’re soft and they’ve come balance of components that make up a get the skins away quickly.on very quickly, despite their youthful age, bunch grapes. That’s what I mean by the Is it similar to any other grape variety?whereas the Granges are big and aggressive analytical make-up. No, I’ve shown it to viticulturist Wally Boehmwhen young. Really it does seem out of kilter. Are you talking about ripe fruit, or over- but he couldn’t identify it.The fact remains that we have those ripe fruit? Perhaps we should call it Schubert’strophies — although we haven’t won one I’m talking about fruit at a certain stage. Of white.since 1968. course, if it’s under-ripe you get a green Ha, ha, ha. Anyway that’s another story.Of course, it was the period when Grange wine, the character of the grape material But I feel very strongly about this. If peoplereally burst. Everybody was talking bloody hasn’t developed sufficiently. You’ve got are going to make really high-class winesGrange and other people were trying to to get it just right, when it’s more or less at they’ve got to survey the vineyards ofcopy our style. its optimum without going over the peak. recognised areas, and pick the bones outThe Grange is a wine made to last. What And this varies from district to district and of that area. Then they’ve got to do a Wolfis the essence of this? vineyard to vineyard. Blass — assess and blend those varietiesThe whole idea is to make a big wine initially Is the fruit indicative of the area? together. You can get a top notch wine ifwith all the extractive material in it so that Yes, that’s right. you do your homework. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 45

1 9 6 6 1 9 7 1 1 9 7 6 1 9 8 3 1 9 8 6 1 9 9 0Are Granges blended from different We’ve always used American oak. I’ve tried You can go anywhere throughout Europe,areas, in South Australia or other States? the French oak, but it’s no good for the through the higher grade sections, andThere are no grapes other than from Grange — too bland. It’s good for certain you’ll find them using new wood all overSouth Australia. We always use the wines that you want to bring on quickly, but the place. The Spaniards ferment all theirgrapes from the Grange vineyard at when you’ve got a great, heavy, full-bodied, sherries in new wood. The French use it inMagill. They’re ideal. aggressive wine, it’s no good putting their high grade chateau wines, new wood forBut you do blend in fruit from other areas? anything bland with it. You’ve got to match fermentation and storage. In Burgundy theyYes, we’ve gradually worked in the Kalimna that. Otherwise you lose it. It’s overwhelmed use new wood for reds and for some whites.hermitage, grown in a certain section there by the sheer weight of character and flavour Wherever high grade wines are madewhich is sandy. And it goes very well with and everything else in the wine. you’ll find that they try and get a woodthis stuff at Magill. There are grapes that Do you use a lot of pressings material flavour to blend in with the natural fruitwe still get from the Morphett Vale region. to get heavy grape tannin in the wine? flavour. If this is done judiciously andIn fact, the original Grange was from this Sure. My word. people know what they are doing it reallyarea, from a certain vineyard only. Does that compete with the wood tannin or makes a far better wine than otherwise.We may have to add a little bit of does it increase the whole tannin effect? Going back to the beginning, not manycabernet as well. But it’s never more than The object in adding that is to get a people liked the Grange style at firstten per cent. It’s just to get the right initial balance after five years, to get the wood did they?balance in flavour character and body. and fruit flavours to marry together, Nobody liked it, except a few. It was aI’m a great believer in making use of a which it does invariably after five years. new style, different concept. The mereportion of another vineyard and if necessary Gradually from five to ten years there’s no fact that I used new wood without prioranother variety to upgrade the final blend. preponderance of any character but the seasoning or treatment was in itselfWhat about the romantics, those who whole lot together gives a terrific volume of sufficient to condemn it straight away,like one cellar, one vineyard? What do character. That’s the objective, all the time. before people had seen it.you say to them? Despite your great advocacy of wood Before they’d tasted it?Sure - if we had enough vineyard around maturation some wineries believe Yes, and when they did taste it all theyhere at Magill to make the whole of wood shouldn’t be used too much with could see was this great big heavy fruit.our Grange from. The soil, the climate, red wines. They argue, if you’ve got Was it too young when people tasted it?everything else, is really first rate for Grange beautiful fruit why hide it by adding Yes, it was.production here at Magill. wood flavours in maturation. So, maybe they were right, they didn’tIs this Magill vineyard going to stay Wood, used judiciously, brings the fruit appreciate the ageing qualities?with Penfolds? character out even more. The wood acts as At the time it was a different style of wine.Oh, yes, we’re going to keep this vineyard. a catalyst on the fruit. What’s more, it gives And let’s face it, in those early years theTurning to something you are famous for it the necessary firmness to stay there. If dry reds that were being made all over- the use of wood - you use American oak you haven’t got the wood the fruit intensity Australia were pretty punk except for onehogsheads for the Granges, is that right? disappears over the years. or two lucky shots.46 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012

1 9 9 1 1 9 9 6 1 9 9 8 2 0 0 2 2 0 0 4 2 0 0 6What was wrong with the early up, and they started talking about them, wines from his own cellar - 40 to 50 yearsAustralian wines? people such as Max Lake and Doug Lamb. old. Magnificent wines. I’ve never seenThey were terrible wines, made wrongly. At that time Doug Lamb was a director of anything like it since, nor will I ever again.There was no attempt to control Penfolds and he went over to Sydney and And know that these wines couldn’t befermentation. Usually it was finished in a laid the bloody law down to the board. He matched, anywhere.couple of days and all the fineness had said: “They’re magnificent wines and we This is why I always say Grange is not angone out of the wine. They were coarse. should be making more of them.” attempt to match French wines at all. ButAlso there were a lot of diseased wines The board asked for samples and it’s an attempt utilise some of their expertiseabout before 1950. Australia didn’t have they showed various ones to people in and to modify it to our own particulara good reputation for table wines at all. the trade. Apparently they were quite conditions. I don’t use the same method asAnd then, Grange came on, made in an impressed too, and from then on I got the the French, but by hell I’ve used that as aunorthodox way, and was not acceptable OK to make it again. In 1962 we started starting point in getting the best out of ourto the wine industry. It was condemned. entering Granges in shows. fruit. I think that’s been proved, too.Even our own at Penfolds condemned it. Who actually began the Grange style? I want to emphasise this. Grange is anWho pushed it through? It’s hard to run There was talk that you and Geoffrey Australian wine. It’s got relationship touphill when everybody’s against you. Penfold Hyland were both responsible? the French.Well, in 1957 I was told by the then No, Geoffrey was only involved in that he Briefly, how is Grange made?managing director to stop making it supported me. He never had anything to The early years were experimental years,because it was “harming Penfolds’ image”. do with the making of it. but the basics have always been the same.But Geoffrey Penfold Hyland was then When you first travelled to France, And one of the basics is first of all to getSouth Australian manager and he believed did you intend to come back with the the fruit right. It has to be brought in atin the future of Grange. As did George recipe for a “Grange” style wine? quite a critical point.Fairbrother and Tony Nelson. My major objective was actually to study The first Granges were made in openAfter discussing it with him he gave me sherry and port making, which I did. I then fermenters with a false head and thethe go-ahead and said he’d take the went to Bordeaux and was there for the temperature was always controlled duringbloody brunt if anything came of it. But vintage and was fortunate in having a very fermentation. I was one of the first to putwe kept it quiet. We didn’t make much good introduction to old Christian Kruse. in refrigeration on a large scale in anyduring those years, but we made it. And I don’t know why but he seemed to take winery. And I think I was the first putthe wines were good. But, of course, we an interest in me. I was about 31 or 32 at in a cold room purely for stabilisationcouldn’t buy new wood. That factor was the time and he took me around to see purposes. So we were fortunate to havemissing from these wines. the vintage at all his chateaux. He told me that and it was our policy always to rackSo eventually you were proved right? how they made the wine, he showed me the juice every day. I don’t believe inBefore 1960, the older Granges were how they put it in the wood, the treatment prodding these special wines.starting to show out really well and I used it got and the various grape varieties. Visit www.winestate.com.au for fullto produce them to anybody that came He took me to his home and showed me article and world-first Grange vertical. September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 47

STAYING TRUE TO THE STYLECan you remember your first taste of What were your favourite vineyards or as one of the great wines of the world. It'sGrange? What were your immediate wine regions for Grange fruit? asking a lot to step in and alter that, isn't it?\"thoughts? \"Kalimna. It's probably the basis of it all, a\"That's a very difficult question. I'm not great vineyard. It produces grapes that make When do you like to drink Grange - stilltoo sure. I was in New South Wales when such beautiful wine - colour, nose, body, with some youth or in middle age, or aGrange became well known. I can tell flavour - everything you want when you are little more advanced?you when I did taste it I realised it was producing a wine like Grange. I always had \"Middle age for Grange doesn't mean it's old.something quite different to what we a soft spot for the Clare Valley fruit we used. You only see the best of Grange from 12 to 14normally had in this country. The early It was tops and added to the quality. Magill years on. That's the age where Grange startsvintages were difficult for most people and McLaren Vale were always part of the to show what it is all about. I still maintain thatto understand and accept. Max often original, so it was not always Kalimna but (ageing advice) even though there is moregot reports of rude comments about the once Kalimna came into it, it took a foothold.\" elegance in the wine today through improvedwines. I recall winemakers saying, ‘it's got winemaking techniques. There is no doubttoo much wood, too much everything'. It How did you see the volatility issue about it, Grange in its youth can be a bit harddid have, but Grange has shown when it associated with Grange in the ‘70s? to take for a lot of people. It is so different in thematures it is entirely different, something Were the high levels unacceptable to volume of fruit, the volume of wood character,really brilliant.\" Penfold winemakers or was it perceived the volume of body, flavour, everything about as a problem mainly to drinkers? it. That's what makes it so very special butYou are regarded as the winemaker who \"When I became winemaker I made sure that's why it is essential to have the correcttook Grange into the modern era. Is that we had the VA within the scope of the food level of maturation to appreciate it.how you see your time with Grange? regulations. It was a legal thing and we\"No, no, not necessarily. I think Grange followed it strictly because people were I've seen articles where a bottle ofcame of age before I became involved taking notice of the VA reading. I go along young Grange has been put up againstas chief winemaker. My big thing was with what Max used to say: ‘it's not volatility an ordinary red and people who haveto make sure we made it according to at all, it's wine flavour’. I didn't see it as a been shown the wines have appreciatedMax's formula and according to the problem as far as the wine was concerned the ordinary red over Grange. When in itsquality and style always associated with but we had to be careful not to exceed youth, people don't necessarily appreciatethe product.\" the limit. A wine without some volatility how good the wine is going to be.\" would not make Grange, in Do you have a favourite Grange? my opinion. I'm not talking \"My last vintage that I thought was brilliant about excessive VA, but I am as far as the product is concerned was talking about some.\" the '86. I recall one of the critics, when he first tasted the '86 he said, ‘this is what What were the challenges Grange is all about'. I've always liked that for you when you took over wine very much. from Max? Did Max have any advice? How often do you drink Grange? \"The advice to me was to \"When someone provides it!\" keep making it as good as possible and if possible, You don't have a cellar full? improve it, which was a hard \"I believe wine was made for drinking. task. I think we maintained I have some good friends who have put on the style and quality. What's luncheons and invited me along. On one the old saying? If it ain't occasion the only wines served at the lunch broke, don't fix it. Grange were all the Granges I was responsible for. was, and still is, classified It wasn't a bad lunch.\" DON DITTER, CHIEF WINEMAKER, 1975 - 1986.

SENDING A MESSAGETO THE WORLDJOHN DUVAL,CHIEF WINEMAKER, 1986 - 2002.What words of advice did you receive Are there winemaking Max, and I remember one series of dinnersfrom Don Ditter when you were handed or style decisions that, that Max and Don and myself did, and Ithe winemaking role for Grange? on reflection, you feel had the job of MC. We'd be tasting all the\"I remember one senior executive telling proud of... and maybe different Penfolds wines and I would beme I had big shoes to fill referring to Don less proud of? able to say to Max, ‘Max when you wereand Max, but in reality Don was too much \"I can't say there is anything first developing Grange or 389, whatof a gentleman to really give me a lecture I regret doing, to be honest. were you trying to achieve?' and I wouldabout how I should continue. Don was As I mentioned earlier, we were looking be bouncing all these questions off him. Ireally the winemaker who taught me about for vibrance and some people have always remember those times. They weretasting and blending to a style because labelled that the modern era but in reality amazing. We did spend time together.by the time I had started Max had retired. it was fine tuning and seeking continuous He was easy to talk to. By the time I spentIt was just very nice that Don had the improvement. We didn't follow the trend time with Max he was a gentle, old manconfidence in me to hand the baton over. for high alcohol, etc, we stuck to the who loved to talk and was very supportive.Don was very much a mentor of mine and philosophy of Grange.\" We used to get Max to come up to thewe worked pretty closely together.\" Barossa for a lunch with the winemaking Under your guidance, the sourcing of team and they were great days. He'dWhat did you bring to Grange? fruit for Grange expanded into new open some of his old, experimental wines\"My time coincided with new equipment regions like Padthaway and Bordertown and he'd talk about what he was trying tobeing available in Europe and Australia, within South Australia. Why? achieve, and we would talk about someparticularly presses, and certainly we took \"Penfolds had been using fruit from the of our plans. He'd invariably say, ‘yeah, Iadvantage of that and the quality of our South-East of South Australia, particularly tried that 20 years ago. You're nearly onpressings improved with softer more usable Coonawarra, in the ’60s and ’70s so really the right track’.”pressings. I was also looking for vibrance when these vineyards became availableand we lowered the pH just a little bit as I saw Padthaway and Border Town as How does Grange sit in the history ofwell. We continued the work that Don had a natural extension. I guess we were Australian winemaking? Do you see itstarted with growers, identifying outstanding looking for that natural vibrant structure, as an icon? Do you like the term icon?parcels of fruit. I guess we took that to a blending component. Or is it something else, something more?new level, in particular, with help of people \"It's hard to find a word that does describelike Andrew Pike, Rob Gibson and Paul Commentators often refer to an Grange. I am quite comfortable using theGeorgiadis, and extended that to company \"old style\" Grange and, by contrast, word ‘icon’ because it is unique; it is uniquevineyards. That was a big team effort.\" a \"modern style”. Did you ever make to Australia. There is a lot of fantastic that distinction? shiraz made but there is no other shirazHow much freedom does a Grange \"It's very easy to compartmentalise and say like it made in other parts of the world. It'swinemaker really have to put his imprint these are Max's vintages and these are played a very, very important role in takingon the wine? Is it important? Don's vintages, but in terms of maintaining the premium winemaking credentials of\"The philosophy of Grange and how it the style, the philosophy didn't change.\" Australia to the rest of the world.\"is made hasn't changed. My approachwas to make sure that we had the best What are your memories ofgrapes for Grange, that the American oak Max Schubert?we used was the finest quality. It was a \"It wasn't until I took over that I really got tofine-tuning process rather than changing know Max. My best and clearest memoriesthe philosophy. It was looking at all the of Max was when I was senior winemakerelements that were responsible for quality.\" I spent time with Max and travelled with September/October 2012 W I N E S TAT E 49

BUILDING ONMAX’S VISIONPETER GAGO,CHIEF WINEMAKER, 2002 - CURRENT.With the ever-increasing role of social cabernet component comes really. We are keeping the dream alive.media and the importance of marketing in black, muscular and He was the creator, we acknowledge andhow do you keep Grange fresh in shiraz-like. When we taste pay homage to him on every label. Hepeople's minds? Or does it market itself? Grange for the classification passed away in 1994. This is his creation\"Grange has its own life but things don't we do so blind, so we don't and we're custodians. It's somethinghappen by accident. In Manhattan two know vineyard, volume really not to be tampered with. I'll startweeks ago we did a tasting with Canadian, and most importantly, grape variety. the classification tasting with literally theAmerican and South American journalists The selection is made in the glass. If entire Penfolds team, including the whitetasting Grange back to 1952. Each one cabernet makes it, it makes it. To date, winemaker. Then as the refinements takeof those journalists will go back and tell I there have only been five vintages that place I will pretty much end up with Stevedon't know how many people across three have been 100 per cent shiraz: '51, '52, Lienert (34 vintage veteran), myself anddifferent countries what the latest is on this '63, '99 and 2000. Because it varies, the John Bird (53 vintage veteran). That'swine. Some of it will be quite revelational amount of cabernet is not formalised.\" a cultural thing, a Penfolds thing. Youwith '52, '53 and '55 as fresh as daisies. won't see any (winemaker) names on aNow, you can't do that for everyone but if Is current wine fashion ever a bottle of Penfolds Grange. Egos are leftyou didn't do that, it (Grange) would just consideration? at the door.\"be folklore, you would be talking about \"For this wine, no. The style, I think, hashow things used to be. You've got to keep been refined a touch. We are no longer Where to from here for Grange?it (Grange) active. You've got to keep using continuous presses, the tannin Where does Grange sit in the national,it alive. We don't do that by billboards, management and fruit selection, I think, international marketplace right now?we do it by engaging.\" has improved but the stylistic template is \"I don't believe in a perfect score or a identical to that of the 1950s. It is one of the perfect wine, but we are trying to getWhat is the quantity of Grange produced wines in our portfolio - St Henri being the closer to whatever that is. The future iseach year? Is there a limit? other - that really don't respond to fashion.\" to maintain the Grange style yet to make\"There is no limit. If only we could make it as best we can and hopefully bettermore. We would if we could. We just can't What is your philosophy for Grange? than the great Granges, the '52 and '53,access that much material at that quality Is it the same as its creator Max Schubert the '55, the '62, '63, '71. We are thrilledlevel. On average we produce between or does Grange need to change, however and delighted with (as yet unreleased)7000 and 9000 cases per annum. There subtly, to remain relevant to each new '08 and '10 wines. There will always behas been the odd year where we have generation of drinker? challenges (to Grange) but I think it hastouched 10,000. Conversely, there are \"The template is set. Only the tools vary a rosy future. In Moscow and Berlin lastyears like 2002 where we have made less a little bit: the fruit sourcing, time spent week they (tasters) were awakened.than one-quarter of the average release; in vineyards, tannin management, barrel There are markets yet that haven't had'02 was a very difficult year to maintain selection and such, which should make a their first sampling. It's a huge world outquality. But we have never, ever, not slightly better wine without changing style. there. Will it ever go out of fashion? Notreleased a Grange.\" It's not a response to fashion. It's a pursuit if it is well made.\" to improve quality.\"How does cabernet sauvignoncome into the equation when blending Who sits in on the Grange tasting panel?with shiraz? Can the finished wine ever be seen as\"Cabernet is a contender in any given year one winemaker's vision?provided it looks Grange-like. That is, the \"Yes, it can be. It is Max Schubert's vision50 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2012