Winestate Magazine Special Edition 2010

SPECIAL EDITION 2010 WINESTATE VOL 33 ISSUE 7 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDEWINE OF THE YEAR AWARDS HUNTER VALLEY RIESLING QUEENSLAND SAUVIGNON BLANC PINOT GRIS/PINOT GRIGIO WINE OF THE YEARS P E C I A L E D I T I O N 2 0 1 0 56-Page 355 special feature NEW RELEASES the best wines, TASTED winemakers & wine companies of the year The Kiwi CONNECTION 2010 VINTAGE REPORTPRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 Special Edition 2010 PACKED WITH PROMISE Vol 33 Issue 7 NAPOLEON’S $9.95 AUS (inc GST) NECTAR NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 US $9.95 UKP/EUR 7.95 South Africa’s legendary plus Vin de Constance Hunter Valley Riesling Sauvignon Blanc Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio

WINESMcLAREN VALE

NO.238 SPECIAL EDITION 2010Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Another Bully.Managing Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Welcome to the family.Sub-editor Mike JaenschAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Introducing the new look Barristers BlockArt Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] Limited Release Bully Shiraz.Marketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Cellar door sales and tastings, open sevenMarketing Coordinator Sue Lumb E-mail: [email protected] days all year round, 11am – 5pm.Printing DAI Rubicon 141 Onkaparinga Valley Road, Woodside,Winestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] South Australia.Public Relations Mike O’Reilly E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +618 8389 7706 facebook.com/barristersblockCONTRIBUTORS barristersblock.com.auNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Graeme Andrews, Valmai Hankel BBW88Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod Properjohn BBW88 Another Bully 1-11 Winestate 270x59.indd 1 1/11/10 11:23:23 AMQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael CooperNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastonADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 Mob: 0457 834 880 E-mail: [email protected], South Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaKym Burke - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandIndependent Magazine DistributorsInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedBRAZILWalker DistributionWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2010 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsSPECIAL EDITION 2010R E G U L A R S 32 Disaster stays away from a 2010 vintage packed with promise 8 Briefs After years of natural threats from 14 European Report with Sally Easton prolonged drought to bushfires, frost, 16 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley fungus and parasites, the 2010 vintage 18 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King uniformly produced grape crops of 20 Wine History with Valmai Hankel quality throughout the nation. D. Paul Hardy looks at this optimistic picture. 100 Wine Words 34 Catching up with Kiwis making 102 Grapevine1 21 Subscription Form their mark in California 131 How We Judge 132 Wine Investment & Collecting Adventure and new experiences are the1 36 What’s it Worth?1 70 Aftertaste catalysts for New Zealand winemakers’ decision to work in California, writes Gerald D. Boyd in the final part of his WINE OF series about Antipodean winemakers’ migration to North America.FEATURES 34 Napoleon’s nectar - the Cape’s SPECIAL FEATURE legendary Vin de Constance22 G whiz - a smart way to sort out On the tip of South Africa, THE YEAR those grey areas a legendary sweet wine that had its With the rising popularity of pinot gris/grigio creating confusion for starts page 45genesis more than two centuries ago, consumers about these different styles, there’s now a clever way to then died for nearly 100 years, is distinguish these shades of grey. again casting its golden glow beneath Peter Dry explains how the ‘PinotG Style Spectrum’ works. Table Mountain. Andre Pretorius Trans-Tasman rivalry took on a new discovers the magic of Constantia. dimension this year when the Kiwis made28 Bimbadgen’s buzzing with new energy and excitement their most successful raid ever on our With a well-recognised and rewarded focus on tourism, Bimbadgen Estate Wine of the Year trophy cabinet. is a success story of the Hunter Valley. Now this go-ahead winery is 106 New Releases and Top 40 In our special feature we reveal our elite building on its momentum with a new Best Buys under $20. dozen - the names of the winners of the winemaker and new chef, as Winsor 12 categories from sparkling to whites, Dobbin explains. W I N E TAST I N G S reds, sweet whites and fortifieds. Judging 140 Hunter Valley panel chairman Stephen John summarises 146 Riesling how the panel assessed each class as 150 Sauvignon Blanc & Blends they tasted their way through more than 158 Queensland 400 wines that earnt five or four and a half 164 Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio stars in our tastings over the year. Apart from naming the Wine of the Year, the runner-up and the 12 class winners, we present the other four finalists in each class. And again, we announce the winners of our prestigious awards for Australian and New Zealand Wine Companies and Winemakers of the Year. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 238 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Special Edition 2010 Cover photograph Orange Lane Studios. Featuring glassware - Luigi Bormioli Vinoteque 598ml Ricco. Special thanks to State Flora Belair Nursery for the Typha Orientalis.

Hahndorf Hill Winery Adelaide Hills Über cool Pinot Grigio 2010 - Winestate Magazine Equal Top in Category This sexy wine was created for the sizzling days and long, hot nights of summer. Perfectly matched with you and your favourite seafood or Asian dish. Trade enquiries - NSW, QLD & VIC: Zenith Wine Agencies: 1300 883 056 - SA: Melissa Stephenson 0408 896 139 www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

P WA E R C 87132 WFL_A4_WINESTATE What more could you ask for? M W, L ! Visit Wine for Life now for great prices, specials and newsletter promotions. Best of all, it’s FREE to join. Create your own individual packs of wine online today from our vast range of over 1 million bottles of cellared premium wines. Enter the discount code ‘WINESTATE’ when ordering on Wine for Life and receive a 10% DISCOUNT on selected Wine for Life products.Phone 1300 852 117www.wineforlife.com.au

editorialI A M V E RY P L E A S E D to report another excitingresult for our Winestate Wine of the Year competition.Each year seems to throw up some surprises, and thisyear is no exception. With a record number of wines tasted this year fromAustralia and New Zealand, it was not surprising to havemore five star and four and a half star wines to be judged byour expert trophy panel. In all, they had to consider the bestwines from 12 categories and taste more than 400 wines.This was then reduced to the top five in each category andthen an overall winner and runner-up. In our 14th year of this competition it seems that, despitedifficult economic times, wineries continue to producehigh-quality wines that deserve recognition and acclaim. In the final wash-up we were delivered a very interestingresult. This year, for the first time, New Zealand scored sixtrophies out of the 12 categories – a marvellous effort. (Onaverage the Kiwi wines have won three or four trophies eachyear, usually from the sparkling, pinot gris/grigio, merlot,sweet white or, not surprisingly, sauvignon blanc, categories). It is also interesting to see the occasionalsyrah wine from New Zealand now offering serious competition to their Australian counterparts. What was great to see was the emergence of perhaps lesser-known regions, with category-winningwines that truly show that regionality is alive and well in both Australia and New Zealand. This is amantra that the industry bodies are trying to push and here is a perfect example of its validity in action. This year our overall winner came from the cabernet category and the runner-up from chardonnay,showing that these two varieties are on the way up again (although some would say that theywere always up; only the critics had gone astray)! It was pleasing to see that the former was fromLanghorne Creek and the latter from Robe. Regionality at its finest! However, predictably the strength in many categories related to the wines from regions well knownfor a particular variety or style. So the Hunter again scooped the pool for semillon, Rutherglen forfortifieds, the New Zealand regions for pinot gris/grigio, pinot noir and (bar one) for sauvignon blanc.For the other categories the results showed an interesting mix of worthy winners, suggesting thatgreat wines are made from great fruit by great winemakers! Congratulations to our winners and finalists and a big thank you to our sponsors who help us makethis all happen. Our full report on all the winners begins on page 45. And to kick off the new year we have also included our current comprehensive tasting of Australasianrieslings, pinot gris/grigio and sauvignon blanc, regional tastings from the Hunter Valley andQueensland and the latest New Releases. Have a wonderful Christmas and New Year and don’t forget that life is too short to drink otherthan the best wine! Cheers! Peter Simic Editor/PublisherSpecial Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 7































AS THE POPULARITYOF PINOT GRIS/GRIGIOWINES CONTINUES TORISE IN AUSTRALIA,IT IS IMPORTANT THATCONSUMERS ARE ABLETO RELIABLY CHOOSE ACONSISTENT STYLE FORTHE VARIETY TO REACHITS FULL POTENTIAL.

Left: Vineyard in Alsace, Riquewihr, France. Right: Mornington Peninsula. Australia has seen a significant expansion In Australia, in order to produce both styles has been developed to show consumers,of plantings in recent years. It is now the from the same vineyard, one would pick through an easy-to-interpret graphic on thesixth most important white winegrape with the fruit early for the grigio, when sugar is bottle label, the style of wine they are about41,000 tonnes in 2009 - more than four relatively low and the acid relatively high. to purchase.times the production in 2006. Surprisingly, For the gris style, the fruit is picked later,there is now more pinot gris than riesling. when sugar is higher and acid is lower. This has been the result of a three-yearIt is mainly grown in cool regions such as study by some of my colleagues at theMornington Peninsula and the Adelaide As the popularity of pinot gris/grigio wines Australian Wine Research Institute withHills. According to the 2010 Australian continues to rise in Australia, it is important the collaboration of Australian winemakers.Wine Industry Directory, there are now that consumers are able to reliably choose The first step was to taste a large number387 producers making pinot gris/grigio. a consistent style for the variety to reach its of PG wines. The panels agreed that some full potential. The ‘PinotG Style Spectrum’ were crisp and zesty, others luscious and24 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

rich and the rest showed combinations of reliably predicted from its chemistry alone. The PinotG Style Spectrum labels will bethose attributes to varying degrees. AWRI The outcome is that a single wine may be used for the first time on 2010 vintage winesscientists showed there were differences from Fosters and Cellarmasters, with usagein the chemical composition of wines rated on a comparative scale from ‘crisp’ expected to expand for the 2011 vintage.of different styles, including differing through to ‘luscious’. To qualify, a wine willproportions of flavour molecules. As a have to be fingerprinted by the AWRI and * Dr Peter Dry is a consultant at theresult, a chemical ‘fingerprint’ of each wine the label will clearly show where the wine Australian Wine Research Institute andwas produced by spectral analysis. The sits on the PG spectrum. What does this Adjunct Associate Professor at thefinal step was to establish a relationship mean for the consumer? For the first time University of Adelaide.between the ‘fingerprint’ and the ‘taste you will be able to determine, with a quickprofile’ so a wine’s style spectrum may be glance at the label, whether the style is PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO TASTING STARTS PAGE 164. crisp or luscious or somewhere in between. Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 25

THE CHOICE TO WORK AT BIMBADGEN WASINFLUENCED BY THE NEW VISION AND DIRECTIONTHE COMPANY IS TAKING AS MUCH AS THEPOTENTIAL OF THE GREAT OLD VINEYARDS.26 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

buzzing New winemaker, new chef and new momentum WINSOR DOBBINI T ’ S A C A S E of onwards and upwards grew up in Wollongong, studied horticulture Rising Star of the Year award and then after leaving school and in 2001 started a joined newcomer Swish Wines as chiefat Bimbadgen Estate, the Hunter Valley short-term job at Brokenwood, where she fell winemaker. She joined Bimbadgen inproducer that has been regularly voted in love with the wine industry and decided to September this year after underlining herthe best tourism winery in New South study for a bachelor of applied science degree talent by being accepted for both the FutureWales. With a new chief winemaker in in viticulture at Charles Sturt University. Leaders of the Wine Industry program 2010talented Sarah Crowe, a new head chef at and the 2010 Len Evans Tutorial program.Esca restaurant in Ebonnie Newby and a Sarah went back to Brokenwood for arenewed five-star rating in James Halliday’s short stint in 2002 and became assistant Her new role will be a challenging one, with2011 Wine Companion, there is a new winemaker in 2004 while doing vintages Bimbadgen’s 40-year-old vines having builtmood of excitement at Bimbadgen. in Oregon in 2004 and 2006 and, more a reputation for quality fruit. “The choice recently, the Rhone Valley in 2008. She is to work at Bimbadgen was influenced by Sarah recently joined after stints at also a regular show judge. In May 2009, the new vision and direction the companyBrokenwood, where she learnt from two of Sarah received the Hunter Valley Wine is taking as much as the potential ofthe best winemakers in the Hunter - Iain Riggs Industry Association’s Hunter Legends the great old vineyards,” Sarah says.and PJ Charteris - and at Swish Wines. She Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 27

“There’s a dynamic team that realises the French and American oak barrels at her With the changing of the guard, generalfuture of a wine company requires a long- disposal, Sarah has the raw materials manager Rebecca Poynter says its as ifterm perspective. I’m excited to be influential to work with - along with somewhere all the stars were aligning for Bimbadgenin this phase of Bimbadgen’s history.” fabulous to eat on-site. Estate. “As a wine business we are focused on the consistent improvement of our wine Named after the property’s striking Esca Bimbadgen has been a regular quality and the appointment of a winemakerviews (Bimbadgen is an Aboriginal award-winning restaurant and offers as talented as Sarah Crowe represents thisword meaning “place of good view”), terrific vineyard views. First opened in late commitment,” Rebecca says. “In addition,Bimbadgen Estate is one of the Hunter’s 1999, it has a large terrace overlooking this year’s rating in The Wine Companionmost visited wineries. The company’s the Bimbadgen vineyards across to the says we are on the right track, especiallyMcDonalds Road and Palmers Lane Barrington Ranges, and an open kitchen. given that wines across several of our rangesvineyards comprise shiraz, semillon, Esca features a large, wood-fired rotisserie and in price points from $23 to $75 achievedviognier, cabernet sauvignon and and char-grill and the spit can roast a whole very credible scores from Halliday.”chardonnay, and fruit is also brought in. pig, as well as smaller game such as duck,Currently, the mature vines naturally which has become a signature dish. Early in 2010, Bimbadgen Estateyield about two tonnes of premium appointed veteran winemaker Mike DeGarisgrapes per acre. With vines set over Esca specialises in modern Australian as a consultant. He will continue in this role,40 hectares and with state-of-the- cuisine and uses produce that is sourced along with another exceptional Australianart winemaking technology and new locally or grown on the estate, including winemaker, Kym Milne MW, who assists lemons, figs and fresh herbs. A highlight of as a style and blending consultant to the the menu is the Esca tasting plates, like a winery. Both bring winemaking experience “mini-degustation”, where guests can enjoy across four continents to the business. three ‘tastes’ from the menu, each matched with a Bimbadgen Estate wine. Bimbadgen is hard to miss on the Hunter landscape. Not only does it host regular Executive chef Bradley Teale, who was rock concerts in its natural amphitheatre at the helm for more than a decade, was as part of the Day on the Green series, but recently replaced by new kitchen supremo the main building is on a hill, with a large Ebonnie Newby, who returned to the and memorable Spanish mission bell tower Hunter Valley after stints at Melbourne’s directly above the winery. The tower is used Silk Road Bar and Lounge, Waterfront as the logo for all Bimbadgen Estate wines Restaurant and Station Pier in Port and the bell is traditionally sounded each Melbourne. She has 10 years’ experience year to celebrate the beginning and end in the Hunter region, having worked as of the harvest of fruit for the winery’s three sous chef at Seasons Restaurant in the labels: Bimbadgen Ridge, Bimbadgen Hunter Valley Gardens and later as sous Estate and Bimbadgen Signature. chef to Darren Ho at Terroir, Hungerford Hill, as well as working at Martines in Bimbadgen Estate has won numerous Newcastle and Petersen’s Champagne awards and was inducted into the NSW House in Pokolbin. “I’m really looking Tourism Hall of Fame as best tourism forward to working with the great local winery and the Hunter Region Tourism Hall produce here in the valley,” she says. of Fame in September 2009. The cellar door is at 790 McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin, The Esca wine list offers not only wines and is open daily from 10am to 5pm. from Bimbadgen Estate, but a selection Esca is open daily for lunch from noon and from other Hunter Valley producers and for dinner Thursday to Saturday from 6pm. classics from regional areas throughout See www.bimbadgen.com.au. Australia and the world. There is also a private dining room for 20, for wine and HUNTER VALLEY TASTING STARTS PAGE 140. food tastings and special occasions.28 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010



FINALLY, NATURE DOES US A FAVOURDisaster stays awayfrom a 2010 vintagepacked with promiseD. PAUL HARDYT H I S W A S T HE VI NTAGEAustralian winemakers had long beenwaiting for. After years of having to endurenature dealing a nasty array of threats -prolonged drought, bushfires and smoketaint, frost, fungus and parasites - the 2010vintage uniformly produced grape crops ofquality throughout the nation. Across thevarietals, this fruit is now being transformedinto an outstanding suite of wines. Signs were good from the outset, withsteady rainfall through the 2009 winterand spring across most viticulturalregions. Despite reduced flowering ofsome varieties, early vine growth in coolconditions translated to good bunches ofmodest quantity, and a cooler summer thanexpected brought a long ripening period.By the time harvest arrived, grape parcelscame into the wineries at an even pacerather than a frantic rush, with varietiesripening in their expected order, andvintage proceeded with an air of optimism. Australia’s estimated 2010 vintage crushwas 1.53 million tonnes, a 12 per cent dropfrom the previous year and significantlybelow the five-year average of 1.68 milliontonnes. However, with Australia anxiousto show the world its ability to produce

Vintagreepo2 r0t1 0Left: Yarra Glen. © Tourism Victoria/Ken Stepnell. Right: Kaesler Barossa Old Bastard Vine.wines of specific regional character, this wholeheartedly. “It’s a beauty,” he sayswas a year when winemakers were quite with a wicked grin. “We rate this vintageprepared to sacrifice some volume in return very highly, with terrific results right acrossfor exemplary quality. the board, with all our whites and reds. Just how good, only time will tell.” Still, their satisfied smiles are temperedby great pain among many grapegrowers The first white wines of the 2010 vintageacross most regions. Reduced crops, that emerged in September have certainlysliding prices and, in some cases, reneged set hearts racing, and it stands as acontracts have pushed an alarming number landmark year for riesling from theof small vineyard owners to the wall. Multi- iconic districts of Eden Valley, Claregenerational growers have succumbed to and Tasmania. The slower ripeningfinancial pressures and are selling their period and cooler summer nights haveland; old vines are being cleared from brought out beautiful aromas in theblocks to make way for housing. It’s a grim wines, with rich flavours and lush texturessituation that looks set to continue unless but still great elegance and finesse.more wine companies, both big and small, The noted presence of more residualget smart about supporting independent sugar in many of the early-release 2010grapegrowers of integrity. rieslings also makes these wines soft and approachable in their youth - perhaps After so many recent vintages of hardship, arming stalwart riesling producers withwinemakers noted the consistency of fruit a more potent commercial weapon thatquality across all white and red grape can appeal to a growing legion of jadedvarietals during vintage 2010 with a mix sauvignon blanc drinkers.of surprise and relief. As a consequence,many have judged the quality with quiet Riesling was not alone among the whiteconfidence. But a few wise old heads grape varietals to shine in 2010. In Westernhave no hesitation in qualifying the value Australia, Margaret River wineries areof wines from this vintage as outstanding. reporting an array of outstanding whites -Constellation chief winemaker Paul Lapsley semillon, sauvignon blanc and “truly greatrates this among the best five vintages of chardonnay”. Cooler weather during thehis 30-year career. Peter Lehmann Wines ripening process has guaranteed high-chief winemaker Andrew Wigan agrees quality chardonnay across many regions, Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 31

WE’VE ACTUALLY GOT REALLY GREATVIRNE2TPA0OG1RET0 FINESSE IN THESE WINES. MAYBE THAT’S OUR REWARD FOR HAVING MADE IT THROUGH SOME REALLY ROUGH YEARS.with the Yarra Valley, Orange and Adelaide Hills and north-west Victoria’s varieties that excel in hot, dry conditions,”Tasmania all identifying excellent fruit high country vineyards. says Eric. “The results we’re getting acrossthat is complex in flavour profile and with our range, from vermentino to sangiovese,outstanding palate length. With a satisfied smile, Fred Pizzini petit mensang and tempranillo, certainly from Pizzini Winery in Victoria’s King proves that to be right.” The long, cool summer nights also helped Valley says he is especially pleased withother grape varieties reach their optimal the quality of his delicate white grape In New South Wales, the Hunter Valley hadcondition at more elevated altitudes, with varieties - particularly the Italian stable of some heavy rain in January to contend withheady floral aromas and crisp natural acids arneis, verduzzo and pinot grigio (also its but, in typical Hunter fashion, early pickingcoming together in easy balance. This has brachetto, which makes a pink moscato). dates for semillon and chardonnay avoidedresulted in crunchy, pear-infused pinot gris After several years of having endured fires any disease concerns and good fruit wasand nice textural sauvignon blanc from the and smoke taint obliterating grapes from delivered. Rains through the start of vintage his high country vineyards, he says it’s a relief to get back to a normal vintage. “Beyond that, we’ve actually got really great finesse in these wines,” he says. “Maybe that’s our reward for having made it through some really rough years.” Of particular note, the Riverland and Sunraysia districts have delivered their best white wines in recent memory: chardonnay that is rich and flavoursome with excellent citrus characters, juicy colombard and sauvignon blanc showing fresh gooseberry and passionfruit flavours, and with emerging crops of vermentino and fiano revealing their true potential as strong varietals in warm growing regions. The quality and vibrant flavours of new varieties of fruit coming from organic growers such as Eric Semmler at 919 Wines near Berri are also sending a strong message to their neighbours and the wine industry at large. “This area should be Australia’s preferred home for new grape32 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

Left: Pizzini Wines. © Tourism Victoria/Cathrine Sutherland. Right: Aerial view of Wise Vineyards. © Tourism Western Australia.also presented challenges for sparkling rich flavours and soft, fine tannins. While In the Barossa, the high quality of bothbase fruit in the Tumbarumba region, though most varietal crops were lower-volume, shiraz and cabernet are a highlight, whileselective picking ensured that the quality pinot noir enjoyed a surprising vintage Clare also has shiraz showing classic redremained high, equivalent to that of the increase of 26 per cent to almost 35,000 fruits, mint and chocolate flavours with ultra-excellent 2005 vintage, with fine flavours tonnes. In Tasmania, pinot from the Tamar fine tannins. McLaren Vale is blowing an evenmatched by acid and sugar balance. Valley has been identified as the cream louder trumpet; the slow and steady ripening of the state’s crop, while in the Adelaide period has Constellation’s Paul Lapsley For Australia’s 817,000 tonnes of red Hills, Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula rating its deep-coloured, concentratedgrapes (53 per cent of the national crush), and Geelong region, winemakers remark shiraz similar to the heralded 2004 vintage,patience was required. Some winemakers that their pinot has especially rich colour, while cabernet, tempranillo and sangiovesepicked based on sugar levels but those spice and acid in balance. all show vibrancy and true varietal character.who waited were rewarded with complex, Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 33



Michael Fragos, winemaker at Chapel Vintag2e0 1 0Hill winery in McLaren Vale, is delightedthat alternative red varieties are showing Above: Henschke Winery. Opposite: Basket of grapes, Barossa. © SATC/Adam Bruzzone.qualities equal to the region’s prestigiousshiraz and cabernet. “We’ve got more sauvignon, while Frankland River shiraz fermented some of his grenache with theage on these vines now, and a lot more looks particularly good. In New South Italian varietal barbera. “It’s only a trial inexperience as winemakers in dealing with Wales, Orange and Mudgee have nice the winery at this stage, but we feel that it’sthe fruit, so we’re seeing better results in the spicy shiraz, exhibiting strong cool-climate worth trying new things when we have goodwinery with each passing vintage,” he says. characters, that will further help raise fruit to work with,” he says. “It’s necessary“It’s really exciting to see this development these regions’ credibility in the minds of to keep looking forward, to not remain staticgain some muscle. It’s important that we’re Australian shiraz drinkers. in what we do.”adding more strings to our bow in regard todelivering more types of high-quality wines.” Grenache is the only variety to have Reports from individual regions read suffered some pain. A damaging heatwave with striking similarity, all noting that great In Victoria, shiraz is looking particularly in late October 2009 saw flowers scorched vineyard health and canopy balancestrong across Heathcote and Rutherglen. and perish on the vine, wiping out as resulted in sparkling quality for theirThe Heritage Wine group happily reports much as 80 per cent of grenache fruit in specialty grape varieties. What a differencethat after three years of awful drought, its some vineyards. The good news is that a bit of winter rain makes, together with anvineyards at Glenrowan have produced what survived exhibits the same great absence of blowtorch summer heat. Nowa juicy shiraz crop, with lovely balance qualities as other fruit from across the the patience game begins again, to wait withand concentration to its durif and tokay 2010 vintage. It has even caused a bit great anticipation for another 18 months towithout being subjected to cooked, of inspired experimentation: in the high see how the flagship 2010 vintage reds lookoverripe characteristics. Eden Valley, Stephen Henschke has co- when they are released for sale. Coonawarra enjoyed excellent springrains, strong canopy cover and an absenceof frosts, resulting in cabernet sauvignondisplaying fresh, intense blackcurrantand mint characteristics with silky tannins.Of course, these conditions mean thatthe region’s other grapes for Bordeaux-inspired blends - merlot and cabernetfranc - also have a terrific nose and evenpalate. And shiraz, which now nuzzlesclosely beside cabernet as a signaturestyle of this district, is equally good. Whenasked whether he has preference of onegrape variety over the other, Zema Estatewinemaker Greg Clayfield squints his eyestight while considering an answer. “Is thissome sort of a trick question?” he mumbles,cautiously explaining that he’s pleased withthe progress of both varieties that are nowmaturing in barrel. “I’m not about to pickone of my beloved kids over another.” In Western Australia’s premium redwine districts, Margaret River is reportingsimilar lush fragrance in its cabernet Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 35

The KiwiCONNECTIONGERALD D. BOYDMORE STORIES BEHIND ANTIPODEANWINEMAKERS’ NORTH AMERICAN MIGRATIONPART 3 OF A THREE-PART SERIESA N Y O N E W H O H A S wandered Nick first came to California in 1989 to work the harvest at Carneros Creek Winery.around New Zealand, met its people He returned in 1990 as winemaker at Simiand tasted its wines must wonder why a Winery in Sonoma County, under veteranKiwi winemaker would ever want to live winemaker Zelma Long. From 2003 to 2008,anywhere else. The answer is quite simple: he was executive winemaker for Alliedadventure and new experiences. Still, with Domecq and then Jim Beam, responsible forsuch high acclaim being heaped on New production at wineries throughout California,Zealand wines from around the world, it’s from Callaway in the south to Atlas Peak andeasy to see why a Kiwi winemaker would Gary Farrell in the northern counties of Napathink that there are no new challenges. But and Sonoma, respectively.that wouldn’t be the assumption of the fourNew Zealand winemakers I spoke with who Following a stint at Corbans Winery inare working for California wineries. Hawke’s Bay, Sam Cropper arrived in California in 2000 to work as an intern at Nick Goldschmidt, who has been in Simi Winery, then went back to New ZealandCalifornia the longest of the four, is head before returning to the US in 2004 to becomeof a burgeoning business that includes operations manager at Buena Vista.Goldschmidt Vineyards, GoldschmidtConsulting and 5 Gold Hands. The other Sean McKenzie, who had previouslythree are Sam Cropper at Buena Vista worked at one of Montana’s bottlingCarneros and Sean McKenzie at Clos du Bois facilities in New Zealand, arrived inWinery, both in Sonoma County, and Rex California and joined Simi in 2001, thenSmith at Vine Cliff Winery in the Napa Valley. moved over to Clos du Bois.36 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

Vineyards and winery in Carneros, Napa Valley. © Cristian Lazzari.Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 37



I WAS ATTRACTED to earth. “It’s the best place in the world alcohols.” He adds that “chardonnays are to make wine,” he says. For Sam Cropper more rich and complex and can tolerateTO NORTH it was a chance to experience a different higher oak levels and cabernets have lifestyle and culture, but there was also more ripe fruit flavours and complexity”.AMERICA AND a more practical motivation: “The sheer Nick believes there is a greater flow of size of the wine industry in California was information flow because of the numberNAPA BY THE attractive as it provided exposure to rapidly of wineries and the size of the industry advancing technologies and innovations.” in California. He says there is moreGREAT CLIMATE vineyard diversity, better clonal material While employed at the Montana bottling and more people to work the vineyards.AND THE facility, Sean McKenzie decided he needed “And California is a better place to make a change. “I was working at a finishing/ cabernet sauvignon and merlot.”REPUTATION OF bottling facility and California looked pretty good to me,” he recalls. California’s fabled HOME IS WHERE YOU LIVE GREAT WINES weather and Napa Valley’s reputation was the draw for Rex Smith. “I was attracted Even though the Californian wine industryBEING MADE IN to North America and Napa by the great offers incentives not found in New Zealand, climate and the reputation of great wines the tug of home is enough to makeTHE NAPA VALLEY. being made in the Napa Valley.” winemakers want to return to New Zealand. Rex has been in California for almost 26 Rex Smith’s first winery job was at Climate, weather and vineyards were years but still looks to his homeland: “I’llSaintsbury in Napa-Carneros (the region cited as major differences between making stay in the United States for now, but Iof Carneros spans across the southern wine in California and New Zealand. Sam would like to do some consulting in Newends of Napa and Sonoma counties) in and Sean say the weather in California Zealand.” Nick has been in California for1984. Before settling in as winemaker is more predictable, allowing for easier 21 years and plans to stay, while Sam andat Vine Cliff in 2001, he worked at three work in the vineyard and the possibility Sean aren’t sure what they’ll do. “I don’tother Napa wineries plus Durney Vineyard of bringing grapes to full ripeness and know if I’ll return to make wine in Newin Carmel, Monterey County, and three development of flavours. Sean also noted Zealand,” admits Sam. And Sean McKenzievintages at Saltram Wine Estates in the there is a larger labour pool in California and hopes to return home at some stage, “but IBarossa Valley, but has not worked for a while, on average, he believes Californian have no plans currently”.New Zealand winery. vineyards workers are less skilled than those in New Zealand, he senses they do Today, the world is moving at an uneasyTHE ATTRACTION not have to work as hard. Sam agrees, pace. California is suffering fiscal woes noting that “fruit is almost always able and the wine industry is looking at theAdventure and having new winemaking to reach full ripeness and development 2010 harvest with mixed emotions. Butexperiences may be the prime reasons of flavours and the premium winemaking no matter what happens, a continuingthat motivated some New Zealand process in California is much more labour- stream, albeit slow for now, of winemakerswinemakers to move to California, but intensive compared to New Zealand, with from New Zealand and Australia areNick Goldschmidt’s reason is more down hand harvesting, hand sorting of grapes looking to California, Washington State and and intense barrel management.” British Columbia for new challenges and adventures. The different experiences and Rex’s extensive experience in the Napa views of grapegrowing and winemaking in Valley gives him a unique perspective. the southern hemisphere are welcome and “Napa Valley grapes are picked riper can only make wines from the west coast because the flavours are not developed of North America better. at lower Brix levels, resulting in higher Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 39

NAPOLEON’S NECTAR Revered and revived, the Cape’s legendary Vin de Constance

THE BLOOMING OLD LADY MADE ALL HASTE TO THE DINING-ROOM CLOSET, TO PRODUCE FROM IT THE SUPPORT EMBODIED IN A GLASS OF CONSTANTIA AND A HOME-MADE BISCUIT.ANDRE PRETORIUS his seventh vintage of South Africa’s most for whites), to the vineyard of Muscat de venerated sweet wine, Vin de Constance, Frontignan that produces the nectar for“ T H E R E I S A RT TO making sweet and we were looking down on the vineyards which the estate is famous, and to the of the Klein Constantia estate from the neighbouring properties in this cradle ofwine. Magic, almost,” said Adam Mason. Constantiaberg. The 2010 vintage had South Africa’s wine industry.“You can read about how to make red wine, been brought in and pressed and the vinesbut to understand how great Sauternes or were bathed in a golden hue. In 1685, shortly before French Huguenotstokaji is made, you need to go to those fleeing religious persecution in Europeplaces, to see how it is done, to speak to On this late summer’s afternoon, Table started arriving at the Cape, bringing withthe people - it is almost a form of folklore.” Mountain rose behind us - Constantiaberg them French viticulture, land was granted to is essentially its south-easterly slopes - and the then governor of the small Dutch colony, As we spoke, Mason was presiding over below us the land sloped away past the Simon van der Stel, who had chosen the affluent southern suburbs of Cape Town, spot for its viticultural potential and called across to Muizenberg and then out across it Constantia. When he retired as governor False Bay to the mountains beyond. in 1699 he settled at Constantia; when he died there in 1712 his estate was divided Constantia stands at the apex of the in three. In 1778 one portion was acquired narrow Cape Peninsula, a spit of land by Hendrik Cloete, a prosperous farmer stretching into the southern oceans - from Stellenbosch (another town named Atlantic to the west, Indian to the east. Its after Van der Stel, and the capital of South peninsular position between two oceans Africa’s wine industry). means that the sometimes searing African heat is attenuated by cooling sea breezes, If Van der Stel had brought wine to creating a series of ideal microclimates for Constantia, Cloete was the father of the white wines in particular. estate’s most voluptuous daughter. With singular dedication, Cloete set about Adam pointed down the hill to the markers creating a sweet wine that would win of Klein Constantia, to vineyards being enduring fame - and meticulously recorded replanted (mainly red to white, these slopes the way in which he did so. having proved themselves a singular terroir Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 41

In the 40 years of Cloete and his son’s equal of Sauternes and tokaji in its time. And not only writers fell for the charms oftenure - Hendrik died in 1818, when Poets and politicians immortalised it. In his this wine. It is recounted that during his exilethe building of the elegant Cape Dutch uncompleted The Mystery of Edwin Drood on St Helena from 1815 to 1821, Napoleonhomestead was started - the Cape suffered (1870) Charles Dickens wrote “…whenever Bonaparte ordered hundreds of gallons ofmuch convulsion. In 1795 the British the Reverend Septimus fell a-musing, his good Constantia and on his deathbed he refusedoccupied it during the Napoleonic Wars, mother took it to be an infallible sign that he all offers of food and drink – except for a glassbut left again in 1803 after the Peace of ‘wanted support’, the blooming old lady made of Constantia. It was a taste - one of few, oneAmiens, only to return permanently in 1806. all haste to the dining-room closet, to produce could surmise - he shared with the British from it the support embodied in a glass of prime ministers and kings he had fought, Despite this turmoil, Cloete managed to Constantia and a home-made biscuit”. who also partook of the nectar from the Cape.create a wine whose name ranked as the42 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

It is a proud heritage and Adam Mason’s name for its historical gem. ‘Constantia’love of this patch on which he was alone would no longer suffice, as thelooking down was palpable: “This terroir vicissitudes of history had fragmentedis magnificent. My first vintage of Vin de Van der Stel’s original estate into a numberConstance - in 2004 - proved that good of different estates - Klein Constantia,terroir can defeat even the most inept Groot Constantia, Buitenverwachting andwinemaker. I really had very little idea what Constantia Uitsig among them. So ‘Vin deI was doing then, but the wine turned out Constance’ was chosen.very well!” he recalled. The wine was bottled then and is now in By the time Adam came to turn his a bottle modelled on those used for thehand to this extraordinary wine, it had original Constantia wines, a few specimensexperienced a near-miraculous rebirth. of which still lurked in the collections ofThe golden age of Constantia’s sweet Europe. Only a thousand bottles werewines ended in the late 19th century made in that first vintage and they weredue to a combination of neglect and the mainly distributed to the press and thearrival in the Constantia valley of two wine trade. Soon it was clear that a singularpests: oidium and the dreaded aphid vinous gem had been re-created. It is athat had already devastated European natural sweet wine - not fortified and notvineyards, phylloxera. Van der Stel’s botrytised - achieved by harvesting theillustrious Constantia estate fell into grapes late, when they have achieved agovernment ownership; the sweet wine raisin-like concentration.that had made its name disappearedfrom the tables of kings and entered the In the glass, the wine is a golden (ratherpages of history books. than amber) nectar, with aromas of dried fruit and honeysuckle on the nose and a In 1980 the Jooste family acquired Klein honeyed, burnt sugar, marmalade intensityConstantia (the name means ‘little’ or on the palate. In common with the greatest‘lesser’ Constantia). The resurrection of sweet wines, it is never cloying and has aConstantia’s sweet wine was engineered crisp, invigorating acidity.by Dougie Jooste and a local professor ofviticulture, Chris Orffer. Orffer was a man When we drink the Vin de Constance ofof quixotic tastes and the very project of our time, I asked Mason, how close is whatreviving the once-famous wine might have we are tasting to what would have beenappealed to the knight of La Mancha. drunk two centuries ago? “Of course we cannot be certain,” he said, and explained Orffer had meticulously researched the that he once tasted the 1821 vintage: “Ithistory, taste and making of the famous was only about a teaspoon’s worth, but itsweet Constantia of yore. Based on his was astonishing. Of course it had becomeresearch, he devised a detailed plan maderised, but it was still fresh and youfor recreating that wine. And the Klein could taste the fruit.”Constantia team were lucky: they managedto find a clone of Muscat de Frontignan “But,” he continued, “from all that we know,that was probably derived from the original all the research about the methods by whichConstantia stock. it was made, all the descriptions, this wine is very close to the famous original.” The first vintage of the modern age was1986. Klein Constantia had to devise a Photos courtesy of WOSA and Groot Constantia Estate. Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 43

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WINE OF SPECIAL AWARDS FEATURE 2010 THE YEAR Featuring the winners and placegetters for each varietal category from over 10,000 tasted throughout the year. Plus profiles of the Australian and New Zealand winemaker and wine company of the year.Wine of the Year Winner Photography by Orange Lane Studios. Luigi Bormioli glasses courtesy of McPherson Consumer Products.

THE JUDGINGEVALUATING THE ELITEW E L C O M E to another Wine of the Year in Australasia and South America for Britain’s Tesco chain. Peter has been aissue, where we present the very best from winemaker in Marlborough and has judgeda vast field of contenders. Here, from the at the Auckland Wine Show and New World10,000 or so wines we taste every year, Wine Show.both in New Zealand and Australia, were-taste all the four and a half and five star The judges were asked to select the topwines to pick the top five in each category. five wines in each category, including the best wine. This was followed by bringing Winestate’s New Zealand Editor, Michael all the category winners together to selectCooper, submits his panels’ results a grand champion and runner-up. Forthroughout the year, along with his New this final selection the judges were askedReleases, and we combine the best of to consider a wine that excelled in itsthese with our many Winestate tasting category; a wine that was above its peerswinners from around Australia. in quality. In this way we analyse two worthy winners from varying styles of wine. It makes for a very exciting follow-uptasting of over 400 wines - a record number For our Wine Company of the Year andfrom a record year of tastings. In the space Winemaker of the Year for both Australiaof 12 months it is interesting to see how and New Zealand, we again judge thesome wines develop into five-star (or gold best performances during the year andmedal) wines while others fade a little. As select our top five nominations accordingly.we have said before, wine judging often Rightly or wrongly, the winner is choseninvolves a moving target! according to points scored, rather than a vote by their peers. As with all Winestate tastings, these wineswere judged blind and results released We have no hesitation in recommendingonly after all scores were in. The categories our top five award winners in eachwere sparkling, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris/ category to you, as well as highlighting thegrigio, riesling, semillon, chardonnay, pinot outstanding results achieved by our Winenoir, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, Companies of the Year and Winemakerssweet wines and fortifieds. of the Year. Our trophy panel this year included Cheers!regular chief judge Stephen John; Masterof Wine Phil Reedman and Leo Buring Peter Simicsenior winemaker Peter Munro. Stephen is Editor/Publishera regular senior show judge and chairmanon the major award Australian circuit, aformer chief red winemaker with SeppeltWines and chief white winemaker with WolfBlass. Philip is a consultant to internationalwine buyers and formerly chief wine buyer JUDGES Winestate Magazine would like to take this opportunity to thank our major sponsors for their ongoing support · Wellcom · Collotype Labels · Radoux · Classic Oak · Tucker Design · Hamburg Süd · McPherson Crown · Amcor Glass · Gale Pacific · National Wine Centre · Transtherm · Adams & SonStephen John Phil Reedman MW Peter Munro46 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010

CHAIRMAN’SCOMMENTS IN BRIEF THE CLASSESSPARKLING Top two wines were outstanding,one being full, rich and elegant and theother fine, delicate and stylish. A relativelysmall class of wines, with the biggercriticism being broadness and lack offinesse. An understanding of the requiredbase wines and liqueuring levels are vital.RIESLING were distinguished in their interpretation cool-area wines, such as the runner-up, are of the style. It is obvious that a ‘touch’ of starting to give this traditional style a realThe top wine was complex, with structure sugar is beneficial to the overall structure, hurry-up. It is only a matter of time beforeand freshness of true varietal fruit. An although it can be detrimental with over- these vines attain full maturity and startexcellent class, showing the winemakers’ use. It is also evident that the maturity of delivering slightly fuller fruit on the palate,and viticulturists’ individual expressions with the vineyards and correct site selection are to achieve a more complete, elegant style.this great variety. Again, recognised riesling becoming greatly beneficial.districts have come up trumps. The control CABERNET SAUVIGNONof phenolics and fermentation management PINOT NOIRare paramount with this variety. An excellent class, representing this The top wine was a unanimous choice, noble variety. The top wines defined theSAUVIGNON BLANC showing a true understanding of the variety. style cabernet sauvignon has to offer, Spice, freshness, balance and elegance showing obvious varietal fruit, controlledThe top wine was a unanimous clear winner were the winning features. There were far tannins, complementary oak and thein a rather boring class. Unfortunately, too many good ‘red wines’ in this class, promise of longevity.many of the wines were past their best, lacking varietal character. It was interestingbeing 18 months old. to see the high average prices compared SWEET WHITES to quality delivered.SEMILLON An extremely diverse group. The top wines MERLOT showed lovely complexity of botrytis, fruitA superb class to judge, being presented with flavour and maturity. It was great to seewines ranging from the ’03 to ’10 vintages and A small class of uninspiring wines, generally the re-emergence of top class rieslingsthe majority showing great understanding of lacking varietal fruit, plushness of flavour in this class. The one viognier was also athe variety. Semillon can offer a great variety and fleshiness. Enjoyable drinkability was very smart wine, showing great potentialof flavour profiles, which make it extremely lacking in non-award wines. The top wine for this style.challenging for the winemaker while offering showed an understanding of the variety, withgreat pleasure to the consumer. obvious good clonal selection, optimum fruit FORTIFIED maturity and careful use of oak.CHARDONNAY An absolute pleasure to judge such SHIRAZ high-class and diverse styles. The topA fantastic class to judge. We have finally wine, amontillado, was considered tomanaged to master this variety. It was Once again the biggest class to judge, be the quintessential style, absolutelydifficult to separate the top two wines with a huge assortment of styles and outstanding. The muscats and tokays werein this class. Texture is a crucial part of interpretations. The biggest disappointment close to perfection; the rest of the worldthese winning wines, created by vineyard were the wines from the ’07 vintage, which should be very envious. Unfortunately,selection, excellent oak integration, depth in general have passed their best, showing the tawnys did not reach the heights ofof fruit and elegance. poor colours, staleness and an alarming greatness we have been used to. incidence of bret! The top wine, from thePINOT GRIS/GRIGIO ’06 vintage, was a classic example of Stephen John a great Australian shiraz, with all of theObviously there is confusion within the features that make this variety so famous.winemaking ranks about the style difference The arrival of the more elegant, peppery,between gris and grigio. This can onlyfurther confuse the public. The top wines*All technical details for the Wine of the Year Special Feature are supplied directly from each winery. W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 47

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SPARKLING of the yearLuigi Bormioli Vinoteque 175ml Perlage. WIN NER THE WELLCOM TROPHY Margrain La Michelle Methode Traditionnelle 2007 WINEMAKER: Strat Canning. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: The nose is smooth and a little buttery, with crisp white fruits, feijoa skin, an apple cider sourness and hints of flinty tinderbox. Sweet, appetising aromas of creme caramel and cookies-and-cream ice cream are enhanced by artichoke heart complexity. The palate is immediately invigorating and attention-grabbing; the creaming-soda texture envelopes the tongue and puffs out the cheeks. At first all eyes and ribs, the wine fattens as the fizz subsides to reveal a sinewy welterweight fleshed out with dried peach, sourdough ciabatta and a touch of nutmeg. The chardonnay component, while only making up 30 per cent of the blend, seems to dominate with fine structure and smooth texture, while the cheese-cutter acidity focuses the wine. FOOD SUGGESTIONS: A beautiful aperitif on its own but matches nicely with seafood kebabs or pork rillettes spread on crusty bread. CELLARING: 2-4 years. VITICULTURE: Simple upright trellis and canopy management. Grapes cannot be too ripe or highly coloured (in the case of pinot noir) at time of harvest. Clean, disease-free fruit is essential, carefully hand picked. VINIFICATION AND MATURATION: Whole bunch pressed over a long period, the pinot and chardonnay portions are fermented separately and combined when dry. The young wine was stored for six to nine months in stainless steel with low SO2 before triage and bottle fermentation. It then sat on lees for 26 months before being hand-riddled and disgorged and sweetened to just 4 g/L final sugar level. Ultra-brut! CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +64 6 306 9292 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.margrainvineyard.co.nz Special Edition 2010 W I N E S TAT E 49

SPARKLING - WINE OF THE YEAR - 2009 W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S F IN AL ISTS LAKE BARRINGTON RADENTI TASMANIA ESTATE ALEXANDRA CHARDONNAY TASMANIA CHARDONNAY PINOT NOIR 2000 PINOT NOIR 2006 WINEMAKER: Frogmore Creek Winery. WINEMAKER: Claudio Radenti. COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: COLOUR, BOUQUET, PALATE: Pale colour with delicate beads. Surging fine bubbles spill a glorious Yeasty, toasty aromas with green apple. aroma of citrus fruit and beautiful Nice texture with beautiful mineral acids. complex bakery scents. The fine, elegant Well balanced. palate unleashes lively stone and citrus CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: fruit flavours that flow and merge with Phone: +61 3 6491 1249 creamy-soft yeasty complexity and E-mail: [email protected] textures. The benefit of over eight years Web: www.lbv.com.au on lees is evident in the amazingly harmonious and deliciously long, more- ish aftertaste. The palate is left refreshed and searching for another sip. CONSUMER CONTACT DETAILS: Phone: +61 3 6257 8574 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.freycinetvineyard.com.au50 W I N E S TAT E Special Edition 2010