Winestate Magazine November December 2012

regional tastingDiGiorgio Lucindale South Tidswell Wines Wynns Coonawarra Estate Majella CoonawarraAustralia Chardonnay Heathfield Ridge Cabernet Coonawarra Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon2009 HHH1/2 Rosé 2012 HHH Shiraz Merlot 2010 HHHH 2010 HHHHHVery oaky, old- fashioned style Smells of red currants and Dense, dark cherry aromas A big, rich, inky style ofbut very appealing with lemon citrus with confectionery, with a touch of spice. Velvety cabernet with dense, minty/curd-like characters with a sweet berry flavours. Good texture in the mouth with dark berry aromas and a tight,fresh, acid backbone. $18 acid level. $19 flavours reminiscent of richly flavoured palate showing blackberry jam on toast. $24.99 amazing flavour length. “WillLindeman’s Reserve MERLOT Majella The Malleea last for many years yet,”Padthaway Chardonnay Coonawarra Cabernet agreed the judges. $332012 HHH 6 TASTED Shiraz 2009 HHHH Mildara CoonawarraA clean, fresh, simple, but 3 AWARDED A minty lift to the black fruit Cabernet Sauvignonwell-made wine with good bouquet. On the palate there 2010 HHHH1/2tropical characters and a Good solid commercial are plenty of blackcurrant fruit A classic cabernet sauvignonperfumed lift. $15 styles here. and toasty oak flavours on the nose with intense, cassis/ drying, tannic palate. $75 herbal aromas. Big, rich,Koonara The Marquise Raidis Estate Mamma DiGiorgio Frank fruit-driven palate with tightMt Gambier Chardonnay Goat Coonawarra Merlot Limestone Coast Cabernet structure and obvious minty2012 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 Merlot Shiraz 2009 HHH characters. Good quality oakWoody nose with a ripe Cherry cola, fruit aromas with Developed, smoky bouquet and support. $30nectarine edge. Good weight of spicy notes. Warm, rich palate a blackberry fruit, stalky tannin Malone Wrattonbullynectarine flavours. Just needs with a touch of dark chocolate and chocolaty, oak palate. $13 Cabernet Sauvignontime. $23 and stewed plums. $25 2009 HHHH1/2 CABERNET A lovely complexity of cassisHenry’s Drive Morse Code DiGiorgio Lucindale SAUVIGNON and cola-like fruit threadedPadthaway Chardonnay South Australia Merlot through with leathery/earthy2011 HHH 2008 HHH1/2 26 TASTED notes and some subdued oakComplexity of bacon fat and A berry compote of aromas 22 AWARDED with plentiful tannins. Drinkingripe fruit aromas. Plenty of and nice tarry development on An excellent class of 2010s. well now. $25toasty wood on the citrus the stewed plum palate. Some Good consistency overallpalate. $14.99 grippy tannins. $20 with fantastic intensity JUDGES of ripe fruit tannins andTolley Regional Selection Waterhouse Range background characters ofPadthaway Chardonnay Vineyards Governor Robe dried herbal elements.2011 HHH Selection Robe MerlotPears and peaches on the 2006 HHH Padthaway Estatenose and attractive varietal Tarry, earthy notes developing Cabernet Sauvignonfruit flavours on a fresh, simple on the nose and soft, sweet, 2006 HHHHHpalate. $20.99 CM blackberry palate. Good Lovely cassis/cedary aromas with drinking now. $18 hint of leathery development.Leconfield Coonawarra Persistent, mouthfilling, sweet,Chardonnay 2011 HHH CABERNET ripe blackberry flavours with greatOak driven nose; hints of BLENDS tight tannins. Got at least anotherapricot kernels. Big, rich, 10 years left in it. $25buttery palate with green apple/ 6 TASTEDcitrus flavours. $24.95 3 AWARDEDROSÉ The better blends in this group showed good balance of3 TASTED varietal fruits with well-handled1 AWARDED oak in support.Only one reasonable exampleof a rose.Duane Coates Greg Tilbrook Peter DouglasWinemaker for Cleggett’s, Barossa based winemaking Winemaker for KoonaraCoates & Raydon Estate consultant. Formerly senior Wines. Formerly chiefWines. Duane has a winemaker Watson Wine winemaker for WynnsMasters of Oenology Group. Former winemaker Coonawarra. A Bachelorfrom Adelaide University at Wynns Coonawarra of Agricultural Scienceand has gained overseas winery for five years. in Oenology, he haswinemaking experience Previously winemaker at completed more thanin Burgundy, the Northern Amberley Estate, Margaret 20 vintages. PeterRhone Valley regions in River for six years. has been an associateFrance, and the Douro Completed a vintage in judge at the Griffith andValley in Portugal. Languedoc, France. Canberra wine shows. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 101

LIMESTONE COASTHenry’s Drive Trial of Rouge Homme Limestone Jacob’s Creek Reserve Zema EstateJohn Montford Cabernet Coast Cabernet Coonawarra Cabernet Coonawarra CabernetSauvignon 2009 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon 2010 HHHH Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2009 HHHIntense, complex aromas - lots Blackberry bouquet with good Complex aromas; sweet berries, Leathery age developing on theof quality oak. Lovely, rich, use of oak and more of the bath salts, mint and herbs. Quite slightly porty nose. Advancedcassis flavours with a very same on the palate with a hint savoury palate with mouth cedary/ herbal palate. $27.95good savoury oak backbone. of earthy undergrowth and a puckering tannins. $17.99Will offer very good cellaring chocolaty finish. $15 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Jacob’s Creek St Hugopotential. $33.99 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Coonawarra Coonawarra CabernetLeconfield Coonawarra The Siding Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2009 HHHCabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Extremely minty lift to the nose2010 HHHH 2010 HHHH A chewy, tannic style with and green edged herbal/mentholPerfumed lift to the youthful, A nice tight wine with a moderate complexity and good palate. Hot finish. $49.99complex nose. Upfront, soft, smooth integration of ripe balance of ripe, sweet varietalblack fruit palate with lots of dark berry fruit, perfumed oak fruit and oak. Soft finish. $39.99 SHIRAZ BLENDSpowdery tannins. Has a long and earthy savoury notes with Koonara Ambriel’s Giftlife ahead of it. $33.50 powdery tannins. $24.99 Coonawarra Cabernet 7 TASTED Morambro Creek Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2 6 AWARDED Padthaway Cabernet Shy nose - some earthy, Sauvignon 2010 HHHH chocolaty elements. Nice red A solid, even class of shiraz Chocolaty, earthy aromas and berry flavours with hints of blends with nicely balanced good concentration of sweet, chocolate and some grippy varietal components. dark berry flavours. Nice oak tannins. $33.90 support. Warm finish. Very Hardys HRBD636 Cabernet Rouge Homme Limestone good length. $31.95 Sauvignon 2006 HHH1/2 Coast Shiraz Cabernet Koonara Ambriel’s Gift Dark fruit, cedar and chocolate 2010 HHH1/2 Coonawarra Cabernet characters on nose and palate Complex, boot polish-like Sauvignon 2010 HHHH with ripe, drying tannins - some aromas. Nice fruit sweetness on Earthy, woody bouquet; development. $25.99 the palate with a dash of wood. some olive notes and a good Jamiesons Run Limestone Soft, easy drinking style. $15 persistence of sweet ripe fruit Coast Cabernet flavours, soft round tannins and Sauvignon 2010 HHH Henry’s Drive a hot finish. $33.90 Inky wine with peaty, tarry Parsons Flat Shiraz Zema Estate Family bouquet and dense, chewy, Cabernet 2009 HHH1/2 Selection Coonawarra dry red palate with controlled Good blend of ripe berry and Cabernet Sauvignon oak. $14.99 savoury leafy fruit, and excellent 2006 HHHH Random Shot balance of cedary oak and some Warm, sweet, cassis fruit Padthaway Cabernet roasted nut notes. $33.99 and vanilla, oak aromas, and Sauvignon 2010 HHH flavours developing nicely with Earthy, cassis nose and good up- Farmer’s Leap Random seamless tannins. Drink now or front, sweet, blackberry flavours Shot Padthaway Shiraz over the next three years. $45 with savoury notes. $16 Cabernet 2008 HHH1/2 Smells of smallgoods with a hint of mint. Lovely persistence of sweet fruit flavours. A touch tarry. Leathery complexity. STAR RATINGS  Koonara The Temptress Henry’s Drive Pillar Coonawarra Cabernet Box Padthaway ShirazThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Sauvignon 2010 HHH Cabernet Sauvignonexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Fruit almost jammy on the nose Merlot 2010 HHHAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry and big, soft, black fruit palate Inky red colour, a briary, gameyprofessionals and are compared in peer with earthy, tabac characters. $23 nose and a warm, ripe fruitclasses by three judges. Raidis Estate Billy palate. $16.99CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Coonawarra Cabernet Jip Jip Rocksa major mail-order business. Sauvignon 2010 HHH Padthaway ShirazCD Cellar door price. Quite advanced and Cabernet 2010 HHHCDO Cellar door only. developed for a two-year-old. Very woody wine. GoodSO Sold out. Nice cedary oak, slightly feral persistence of spicy, dark$N/A Price not available at time of printing. dark red fruit. $25 fruit underneath. Hot on the Contact information pg 160. Koonara Angel’s Peak finish. $19.95 Coonawarra Cabernet Wyndham Estate RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Sauvignon 2009 HHH George WyndhamFor a complete list of what we tasted Smells earthy and leafy with Founder’s Reserveplease refer to www.winestate.com.au distinct mintiness. Developed Limestone Coast Shiraz leathery/chocolaty palate. $19.95 Cabernet 2009 HHH Earthy, barnyard bouquet and fresh, blackcurrant flavours with greener, spicy notes. $21.99102 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

UNIQUE AUSTRALIANWINE TOUR FOR TRADESouth Australia has been regarded Australia’s ‘wine state’ formore than 150 years. It produces roughly half of the nation’swine, both by value and by volume, and is home to the vastmajority of its iconic, high-end wines.Over the last weekend of February each year, The world-class Adelaide Convention Centre,more than 150 wineries from 12 regions located in the Adelaide Central Business Districtaround South Australia come together for the by the picturesque River Torrens is closehighly successful Cellar Door Wine Festival at to a range of international hotels, Adelaidethe Adelaide Convention Centre. international airport and public transport.It is a unique opportunity for anyone in the If you have your eyes onwine business to meet winemakers, discuss Australian wine, the Cellarstyles, blends and vintages, and sample Door Wine Festival tour isthe best – all under one roof. For those not to be missed.wishing to grow their knowledge of Australianwine, or their wine portfolios, no otherevent in Australia showcases such a largerepresentation.For the rst time in 2013, an exclusive 4-day For more information on tradeor 8-day package for the international wine trade opportunities or to request a fullis being organised to coincide with the festival. brochure of this package, contact:Participants will also:• attend a specially-designed wine masterclass by Winestate magazine’s CEO Peter Simic, a highly respected wine connoisseur and judge• exclusive opportunity to network at the Giovanna Toldi, Festival directly with winemakers and Marketing Manager establish valuable business contacts [email protected] +61 8 8210 6720• attend a unique tasting in the dining room exclusive to Members of the Parliament of www.cellardoorfestival.com South Australia• visit the home of world-famous labels including Wolf Blass, Penfold’s and Jacob’s Creek.SATC SATC SATCfacebook.com/CellarDoorWineFestival twitter.com/@CellarDoorFest www.cellardoorfestival.com

LIMESTONE COASTSHIRAZ Koonara Angel’s Peak Morambro Creek Farmer’s Leap Padthaway Coonawarra Shiraz Padthaway Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHH1/222 TASTED 2008 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHH A firm, grippy, tannic style21 AWARDED A rich, well-made shiraz with Dark berry aromas with a whiff with a gamey, minty bouquet.A very strong group with both ripe, sweet, blackberry fruit of coconut oak and a dash of Similar characters on the palatethe 2010 and 2009 vintages perfectly balanced by some top pepper. Nice oak influence on and quite a hot finish. $20performing very well. Although quality oak. Hints of pepper and the soft, sweet, dark berry fruitknown as a cabernet region, spice, and alcohol warmth on palate. $31.95 Jamiesons Run Limestonethis shows the strength of the finish. $19.95 Tidswell Wines Caves Coast Shiraz 2011 HHHshiraz in the area as well. Koonara Ezra’s Gift Road Shiraz 2010 HHHH A soft, simple quaffer with Coonawarra Shiraz Jammy, blackberry fruit attractive, spicy, plum fruit andMajella Coonawarra 2010 HHHH bouquet with hints of Asian- dash of white pepper. $14.99Shiraz 2010 HHHHH A clean, well-made wine with like spicy characters. Strong,Very youthful aromas of a pretty, cherry nose showing peppery notes on the sweet, Mt Monster Limestoneripe blackberries, some cola lovely floral accents and a seamless palate. Time! $15.50 Coast Shiraz 2010 HHHelements and lovely spicy firm, tannic palate with upfront Henry’s Drive Strong, leathery, smallgoodsnotes. Soft, sweet and blueberry fruit. $27.65 Morse Code Padthaway aromas and confectionery,seamless in the mouth with Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 sweet, black fruit flavours.great oak and long, lingering, Tarry, charry and earthy on the Overt oak. $15.95fruit flavours. $30 nose. Good stalky, peppery,Malone Wrattonbully cool-climate varietal fruit Farmer’s Leap PadthawayShiraz 2009 HHHH1/2 flavours. $14.99 Shiraz 2010 HHHA big, rich, fruit, sweet style Jip Jip Rocks Padthaway Gamey nose with a bitumen-likewith lashings of oak. Generous Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 character and a dense, peatyageing aromas and long, soft Looking advanced for its age palate with good tannins. $20black fruit flavours with some and has plenty of ripe, sweet,powdery, sweet tannins. plum fruit and spicy, peppery/ Henry’s Drive Pillar BoxWarming finish. $25 savoury characters. $19.95 Reserve Padthaway Koonara The Seductress Shiraz 2009 HHH Coonawarra Shiraz Gamey, leathery complexity to 2010 HHH1/2 the nose and palate. Fruit still Powerful, youthful, dark berry there. Hot finish. $21.99 bouquet with farmyardy notes. Tight tannic palate with bright, Henry’s Drive Dead peppery, plum flavours. $23 Letter Office Padthaway Wynns Coonawarra Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz Black Label Coonawarra 2009 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Subtle, aged, cool-climate Intense chocolaty nose and characters on the nose. Grippy, good depth of ripe, spicy, berry tannic/fruit palate. Give it three- flavours with a spicy finish. five years! $26.99 Good drinking now. $39.99 SWEET 1 TASTED 1 AWARDED Flint’s of Coonawarra Rostrevor Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Complex nose - loads of coconut, oak aromas with cola, prune-like flavours. A different style. $19.99 Zema Estate Coonawarra Koonara Ezra’s Gift Leconfield Noble Riesling Shiraz 2008 HHHH Coonawarra Shiraz 2011 (375ml) HHHH Still young with some subtle 2009 HHH1/2 Exotic lift of lychee and dried development. Earthy, raspberry Top quality oak, lovely spicy, apricot aromas, and luscious aromas and firm, spicy, cassis peppery fruit and firm tannins. palate with complex flavours, palate with grippy tannins and Very varietal with excellent lovely freshness and good quality oak. $25.95 cellaring potential. $27.65 overall balance. $19.95 Henry’s Drive Padthaway Henry’s Drive Reserve Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Black, spicy, varietal fruit Intense, chocolaty/dark fruit aromas with a background of bouquet; hint of iodine-like smoky oak. Strong, firm palate, characters. Very good weight and good chocolaty, spicy fruit length of varietal flavours. $61.99 flavours. Still youthful. $33.99104 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

Ralph Fowler Wines is committed to producing limited Please feel free to contact Ralph Fowler winesquantities of hand crafted premium quality wines. via any of the following methods:The vineyard is planted with selected clones of Shiraz, Viognier Phone: +61 8 8768 5000and Merlot and the latest viticultural technologies have been Fax: +61 8 8768 5008incorporated into the vineyard plantings. Email: [email protected] Lyre trellis system will give fruit of the best possible quality www.ralphfowlerwines.com.auand allow the production of fruit driven wines with strong Location:varietal expression and superior mouthfeel. PRD irrigation 101 Limestone Coast Roadpractices ensures quality grapes are produced as well as taking a Mount Bensonmajor step toward environmentally sustainable agriculture. South Australia Postal Address: PO Box 423 Kingston SE South Australia 5275 AUSTRALIAwww.ralphfowlerwines.com.au

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINHUNTER VALLEYCELEBRITY CELEBRATION region at the 2012 Restaurant and Catering NEW OPENINGS Awards. The Sydney Morning HeraldTOWER Estate has celebrated the arrival of Good Food Guide hatted restaurant, run THE Hunter Valley has no shortagecelebrity chef George Francisco, previously by chef Troy Rhoades-Brown and his of new places to eat with several newof Jonahs at Whale Beach, at its showpiece wife Megan, opened in March 2009 and cafes and restaurants having opened inrestaurant Roberts. Francisco grows herbs received its first hat the following year. recent months. Among the highest profileand vegetables, and forages around the Muse has quickly become a “must visit” are the new Lindeman’s Ben Ean cellarproperty to come up with his daily menu, destination for tourists in the Hunter Valley door and 1843 Harvest Cafe, the nameusing whatever is in season, including unusual with menu items like cured Atlantic salmon of which honours the year Lindeman’singredients like mulberries, edible flowers tartare with coriander creme fraiche, was established with the planting of Drand Muscat grapes. The neighbouring local blood orange jelly, brioche, radish and Lindeman’s first vineyard. The large,poultry farm raises pheasant, duck, quail and avruga; and Mandagery Creek venison rustic 1843 Harvest Cafe offers a relaxedgeese to order, while a local organic farm smoked in barrel shavings and served dining experience. The signature dishesprovides all the fruit and vegetables. Whole with brassica vegetables. Tasting menus, are gourmet wood-fired pizzas, as well aspoultry breasts are slow cooked by Francisco which must be taken by the entire table, sweet treats such as avocado pannacottaand his team in the old wood-burning oven feature matching Hungerford Hill wines, with hibiscus flower and seasonal fruit orthat forms a centrepiece of Roberts, while premium wine choices or single-malt churros with bitter caramel and vanilla sugar.other signature dishes include the char-grilled whisky pairings with each course. The The Lindeman’s Ben Ean Cellar Door onaged Rangers Valley rib eye and the confit of couple also runs Muse Kitchen at the Keith McDonald’s Rd, Pokolbin, is open daily forBerkshire duck belly. Built in 1876, Roberts Tulloch cellar door, which does lunches tastings. www.lindemans.com.au.is one of the more charming eateries in the Wednesday-Saturday only and producesHunter, while Tower Estate, a member of the European-styled dishes that are seasonal SaborintheHunter(www.saborinthehunter.exclusive Relais & Chateaux group, is one and produce-driven. More than 170 com.au) is the region’s newest sweet spot,of Australia’s most exclusive luxury lodges. restaurants and caterers were recognised serving classical and seasonal dessertsThe property comprises the five-star Tower at the awards, which celebrate excellence paired with wines, dessert wines andLodge, the Tower Estate winery and Roberts. in food and service standards. The Fig Tree fortifieds from the Hunter region. The houseTower Estate is on Halls Rd, Pokolbin. Restaurant, of Byron Bay, claimed top spot speciality is the award-winning Portuguesewww.towerestate.com. for the Northern NSW/New England area, chocolate mousse. announced at the same function. MuseTOP SPOT Restaurant and Cafe is open Wednesday- Gartelmann Estate (www.gartelmann. Saturday from 6-10pm and the more com.au) has a new cafe, The MagpieMUSE Restaurant and Cafe at Pokolbin, casual cafe open seven days 10am-5pm. Cafe, serving light lunches, coffees andpart of the Hungerford Hill cellar door It is located at Hungerford Hill Wines, cakes, while Lillino’s Restaurant (www.complex, has been named the best Broke Rd, Pokolbin; phone (02) 4998 6777. stclementsestates.com) offers Sardinianrestaurant in the Hunter and Central Coast www.musedining.com.au. and Mediterranean cuisine. Ridgeview (www.ridgeview.com.au) also has a new cellar door and restaurant.106 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

travelbriefsWINNING COMBINATION full bathroom. The lounge area has a double RUSTIC EATERY sofa bed and the lodge has a large verandahFANCY combining a beach holiday with with wood burning and gas barbeques. SOMETIMES a restaurant just hits allsome Hunter wine tasting? The former the right notes. That’s how it was on aSebel Newcastle Beach, now rebranded as Leaves and Fishes (http://leavesandfishes. recent visit to Restaurant Botanica. Thethe Novotel Newcastle Beach, might fit the com/accommodation) has launched four ambience was just right; the servicebill. Located in Newcastle's bustling East stylish boathouse-style accommodation units warm, the food top notch and the wine listEnd and just metres from the beach, the and caters for a maximum of eight people expansive. The rustic eatery is part of theNovotel Newcastle Beach is just a two-hour at any one time, while Cedars Mount View Spicers Vineyards Estate and Botanicadrive from Sydney and features 88 well- (www.cedars.com.au/index.php?page=Vue) and has a well-deserved reputation forappointed guestrooms, some with ocean has added a new villa, known simply as Vue, regionally distinctive dining, thanks toviews, a fully equipped gymnasium, spa and designed for just for one couple. seasonal menus and what is regardedsteam room. Guests can take advantage as one of the country’s best regionalof large furnished balconies while Bistro RELAX AND UNWIND wine lists. Chef Mark Stapleton’s herbsDalby offers al fresco or indoor dining with and vegetables are often sourced froma modern Australian menu that focuses on LOOKING for somewhere to relax and wind the on-site kitchen garden and menusregional produce. The comprehensive wine down in the Hunter? Twin Trees Country are based around wine-friendly flavours.list features some of the best of the Hunter Cottages are country-style cedar cottages A two-course dining experience costsValley. Next door to Bistro Dalby, Bar Petit nestled in the heart of the Pokolbin region. $65 and a three-course menu just $10is a popular wine bar with a cocktail list, The self-contained cottages are situated on a more. Think starters like duck liver patewine and tapas menu, and cool interiors tranquil farming property among grapevines sealed with red wine jelly and served withthroughout. Rates at Novotel Newcastle and native gardens with easy access to the crisp sourdough and Stapleton’s pickles,Beach start from $179. The hotel is at 5 award-winning wineries, restaurants and or maybe barbecued quail with wildKing St, Newcastle; phone (02) 4032 3700. attractions of the Lower Hunter Valley. Twin oregano and pesto. Mains may includewww.accorhotels.com.au/hotel/novotel- Trees, perfect for those looking to self-cater, cardamom and pepper-crusted duck withnewcastle-beach. is situated next door to Roberts restaurant heirloom beetroot relish, Puy lentils and at the end of quiet rural road. There are 10 goat’s curd, or charred chermoula lambEXTRA ACCOMMODATION with smoked eggplant, Moroccan date cottages, all fully self-contained and spread and preserved lemon salad. RestaurantWITH the Hunter often booked out on out across the property to ensure privacy. Botanica is at 555 Hermitage Rd, Pokolbin;weekends on which there is a big concert, One- and two-bedroom cottages are available phone 1300 192 868. www.spicersgroup.new accommodation options are welcome. with queen-sized beds, full kitchen facilities com.au/restaurant/restaurant-botanica.Little's Winery (www.littleswinery.com.au) and outdoor areas with private barbecues. Forhas added lodge-style accommodation to its larger group, or families, several cottages also Left: Restaurant Botanica.offering. The accommodation at Little's Wine have a double sofa bed. Twin Trees is at 111 Right: Wood-fired pizza at 1843 Harvest Cafe.Lodge consists of one king bedroom with en Halls Rd, Pokolbin; phone (02) 4998 7311. Opposite page: Roberts lounge and cottage.suite bathroom and one queen bedroom with www.twintrees.com.au. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 107

96 TASTED83 AWARDEDHUNTER VALLEYA nice selection of fine Hunter wines where, not Mistletoe Home Vineyardsurprisingly, the semillons excelled along with some Hunter Valley Semillongreat chardonnays. Also of interest were the crowd- 2011 HHHHpleasing verdelhos. For the reds, shiraz is still the Sherbety nose; hints ofmainstay, ranging from older, savoury style to the spacy, grapefruit and honeysuckle.new-age versions. Good palate weight, sweet fruit in the tropical spectrum with toastiness developing. $22 Rothbury Estate Black Label Hunter Valley Semillon 2011 HHHH Smells of honeysuckle andSPARKLING Drayton’s Family Wines marmalade. A tightly structured Hunter Valley Semillon2 TASTED 2012 HHHHH citrus fruit palate showing good2 AWARDED acidity. Shows potential for Confectionery pineapple ageing. 3-5 $22.99 CMMistletoe Hunter Valley aromas with mineral tones.Moscato 2011 HHHH Great intensity and drive ofVery lifted aromas - “Almost citrus fruit flavours with a crisp Tempus Two Hunter ValleyViolet Crumble-like,” suggested acid backbone. Huge potential Semillon 2012 HHH1/2one judge, with intense here for ageing into a Hunter Very youthful with herbalflavours but without being classic. 5+ $20 complexity on the nose and aoverly sweet. $22 crisp, zesty, citrus palate with Two Rivers Stones Throw plenty of herbal overtones. Hunter Valley Semillon 2012 HHHH1/2 3-5 $29.99 Lean, citrus nose with delicate, floral notes. Attractive Ernest Hill Cyril Mount View Estate combination of preserved Hunter Valley Semillon Reserve Hunter Valley lemon and fresh lime flavours 2012 HHHH Semillon 2012 HHH1/2 on a lovely, long, crisp palate Tangy lemon sherbet bouquet Smells of lemon juice and with bright, clean acidity. $16 and tightly packed varietal fruit Granny Smith apples. Very crisp in the mouth with racy acidity. palate with excellent flavour Needs more time to settle. $25 Krinklewood Boutique intensity. Very firm on the RidgeView Generations Vineyard Hunter Valley Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2012 HHHH1/2 finish. 3-5 $22 Semillon 2012 HHH1/2 Very varietal aromas with a firmBimbadgen Hunter Valley Unusual but very appealing James Estate Reserve and pleasing crisp citrus palate,Sparkling Semillon NV HHH green capsicum/olive Hunter Valley Semillon with herbaceous notes. NiceTangy aromas with floral aromas and long, persistent 2012 HHHH acidity on the finish. $25notes. Refreshing up front fruit mouthfilling citrus flavours with Warm fruit aromas; somepalate. Soft in the mouth. Well grassy hints. Long, lingering acid notes. Palate is crispmade. $16 finish. Plenty of ageing and lean at this stage with a potential. 3-5 $22 good flavour length. Nice acid James Estate Reserve backbone. $23 Hunter Valley SemillonSEMILLON Mistletoe Reserve 2011 HHH1/22012 - 2011 Hunter Valley Semillon Nose more minerally than 2011 HHHH1/2 Lindemans Bin 1155 fruity. Palate is fresh, crisp22 TASTED Hunter Valley Semillon and zesty with some sherbet21 AWARDED Delightful lift of fruit salad-like 2011 HHHH fruit intensity. Acid dominates. fruit characters on the noseAs expected - a very strong and great concentration of Nose shows hints of bananas and 3-5 $23class from Australia’s leading paw paw. Lemon/honeysucklesemillon region. With styles up-front citrus and green apple palate has a waxy texture - acid James Estate The Estatethat are very reflective of two flavours with a very crisp, acid Hunter Valley Semillondifferent vintages; the lean, backbone. 3-5 $24 dominated for now but great Blanc 2012 HHHlimey, herbaceous 2012 and the potential. 5+ $30 Good varietal fruit showing onriper, fuller, warm 2011. nose and rich, tightly compacted, Lindemans Bin 1150 tropical flavours. $16 Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2011 HHHH Confectionery pineapple sherbet nose and good spread of gentle, citrus/herbaceous fruit flavours. Oily mouthfeel. Good drinking now. $50108 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

regional tastingBimbadgen Estate Hunter Hungerford HillValley Semillon 2012 HHH Hunter Valley SemillonSubtle green apple aromas 2010 HHHH1/2and crisp, sherbety palate Nice fruit characters comingwith crunchy apple flavours. through on to the nose; hints of herbs and citrus blossoms. Softly 3-5 $22 textured palate. Good depth ofRothbury Estate Black citrus flavours. Drinking well nowLabel Hunter Valley or cellar it. 5+ $25Semillon 2012 HHHGrassy, sherbet bouquet and The Wine Society Tyrrell’slight citrus flavours. Has potential Hunter Valley Semillonfor ageing. 3-5 $22.99 CM 2009 HHHH1/2 Still quite youthful with anCapercaillie Hunter Valley expressive toasty, citrusSemillon 2011 HHH bouquet. Rich fruit pastille-Minerally, tropical nose and like flavours on a juicy palatebright, citrussy flavours with with a crisp finish. “Be greatsearing acidity. 3-5 $25 served with duck,” said one judge. $12.99McWilliams ElizabethMount Pleasant Hunter McWilliams MountValley Semillon 2011 HHH Pleasant LovedaleHerbaceous aromas edged Hunter Valley Semillonwith citrus. Lean, tight palate. 2007 HHHH1/2Not ready yet. Cellar it! $17.99 Lean lime/lemon aromas with nice floral notes. Very crispAllandale Hunter Valley palate with pleasing varietalSemillon 2011 HHH fruit. Still has good level ofA fresh, fruit bouquet with acidity. Only just starting topineapple tinges. Sweet citrus develop now. 3-5 $59.99flavours with a toasty boost. $20 James EstateRidgeView Generations Reserve Hunter ValleyReserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2009 HHHHSemillon 2011 HHH Developing some lovely, toastySome gooseberries and complexity on the nose and aspices on the nose with classic, toasty, citrus/straw-likecrisp apple flavours and an palate. Drinking well now butherbaceous lift. $25 has further ageing potential. $23SEMILLON RidgeView Generations2010 & OLDER Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon 2007 HHH1/29 TASTED Lean, straw-like nose with hints of crushed herbs and lean,9 AWARDED upfront, citrus flavours - verging on tropical with nutty notes. $35A great consistent class RidgeView Generationsunderlining just how well these Reserve Hunter Valleywines age. “Screw cap is best Semillon 2010 HHHfor further ageing,” suggested Subtle apple sorbet nose andone judge. “Buy them young complex, citrus flavour intensityand age them yourself.” but still looks youthful. $25McWilliams Mount Pleasant Allandale WinemakersElizabeth Hunter Valley Reserve Single VineyardSemillon 2006 HHHHH Hunter Valley SemillonA complexity of lemon zest, 2010 HHHpineapple, spices and pepper Slightly nutty nose and goodon the nose. Lovely mouthful palate weight, with nice citrusof rich fruit flavours layered notes and some complexity. $50with fresh acidity. An excellent Bimbadgen Signaturedrink with a few more years leftin it yet. 3-5 $22.99 Palmers Lane Hunter Valley Semillon 2009 HHH Refined, restrained, fruit aromas. Nice core of citrus fruit on the palate. Classic in the making! 5+ $40 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 109

HUNTER VALLEYCHARDONNAY Gartelmann Classic Capercaillie Cuillin Rothbury Estate Black Hunter Valley Chardonnay Hunter Valley Chardonnay Label Hunter Valley17 TASTED 2009 HHHH1/2 2011 HHHH Chardonnay 2011 HHHH17 AWARDED A powerful style. Some spices Wine offers a big burst of fleshy, Peach and citrus on the noseExcellent class. This region is and herbs on the tropical/citrus ripe, varietal fruit. “This is what I with nice smokiness that followsrecognised as one of Australia’s nose, with similar characters like about Hunter chardonnays,” through to the palate, addingbest for chardonnay. “Great to echoed on the palate. Oak said a judge. Has restrained oak complexity of flavour on thesee more structured, lean and lifts the package and adds and crisp acid. $25 fresh, vibrant palate. $24.99 CMfocused wines rather than the complexity. $30oaky/ripe fruit styles of the past,” Two Rivers Reserve Krinklewood Biodynamicnoted one judge. “You will be Hunter Valley Chardonnay Vineyard Hunter Valleypleasantly surprised by these.” 2011 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay 2010 HHHHSaddler’s Creek Reserve Funky, white peach and Fleshy peach nose withHunter Valley Chardonnay nectarine aromas with minerally interesting smoky oak2010 HHHHH characters. Delicious up-front elements. Toasty oak drivenVanilla tinged varietal fruit flavours of stone fruits and dried palate has complexity and isbouquet plus some smoky notes apples with vanillin oak. Slightly refreshing. Drinking well now.- very complex. Palate bursting oily mouthfeel. $24with rich fruit flavours underlined 1-2 $28by crisp acidity. A big wine butnot excessively so. $32 Drayton’s Family Wines Vineyard ReserveTamburlaine Reserve Hunter Valley ChardonnayHunter Valley Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/22011 HHHH1/2 Bimbadgen Ridge Ripe melon aromas withHints of oak over mango and Hunter Valley Chardonnay biscuity notes, and juicy varietalpaw paw-like aromas. Palate 2010 HHHH fruit palate with a long, crispis loaded with ripe, tropical “Smells of the sea,” thought one finish. Potential. 3-5 $30flavours perfectly blended with judge. Some rich, honeysucklethe vanilla oak and has a lovely, and nougat flavours on the Mistletoe Reservefunky/zesty finish. $30 surprisingly soft palate that has a Hunter Valley Chardonnay sweet finish. $16 2011 HHH1/2 Oak tending to dominate the Allandale Hunter Valley melony fruit aromas. Upfront Chardonnay 2011 HHHH sherbety characters to the palate An attractive, old-fashioned, with lovely, varietal fruit. $40 Aussie chardonnay with the oak obvious, but then so is The Wine Society the lovely, varietal fruit. Has a Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley bright, zesty finish. $20 Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 A very rich, pleasing chardonnay Mistletoe Hunter Valley that smells of tropical fruits but Chardonnay 2011 HHHH tastes of stonefruits and citrus, Hints of honey and spice on with some toastiness. $12.99 the complex nose. Palate is a complexity of toastiness, James Estate Reserve smokiness and fleshy fruit. Hunter Valley Chardonnay Quite delicious. 3-5 $22 2011 HHH Ernest Hill Chicken Shed A crisp, clean quaffer with lots Hunter Valley Chardonnay Saddler’s Creek of spices and butterscotch on 2010 HHHH1/2 Hunter Valley Chardonnay nose and palate. $23 Lovely nose - smells of 2011 HHHH pineapples and citrus blossoms. A hint of nuttiness on the Bimbadgen Estate Pleasant oak characters evident green apple nose; some smoky Hunter Valley Chardonnay on the palate with good upfront notes. Complex palate - good 2011 HHH varietal fruit flavours. Very spiciness, depth of fruit and Lean wine with long, lingering, Hunter! 3-5 $30 level of acidity. 3-5 $24 persistent flavours and some nice oatmeal-like oak. 3-5 $24JUDGES Andrew Leembruggen Denis Gastin Simon Rowe Eight vintages at Senior wine writer and Now manager for Down McWilliam’s Mt Pleasant author and former Australian Under Cellars in Sydney. Hunter Valley winery. trade official in China and Formerly buying and Associate judge at the Japan, who has written promotions manager for Sip Hunter Valley Wine extensively about the Asian ’n Save Cellars. Diploma Show. Vintages in Rhone wine industry. He writes of Wine Marketing. Twelve Valley and Bordeaux. for wine and liquor industry years in the retail liquor publications in Japan and industry, including managing South Korea and for the Parade Cellars in SA. official Australia Wine Japanese language website.110 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

regional tastingVERDELHO James Estate Hunter Valley OTHER RED Rothbury Estate G.S.& BLENDS Verdelho 2012 HHHH VARIETALS Selection Hunter Valley Floral bouquet with touches of Shiraz Cabernet 2011 HHH12 TASTED lime juice-like characters. Well- 5 TASTED Confectionery fruit nose with a10 AWARDED structured palate - nice, crispy menthol lift. Firm, lean palate. zestiness. A good food wine. $16 3 AWARDED Moderate fruit, good acidHunter is the place for verdelho Krinklewood Boutique backbone. $23.99 CMin Australia. Wines from here Vineyard Hunter Valley These wines tend to be moreshow great richness and Verdelho 2012 HHH1/2 up-front, mid-weight ones SHIRAZconcentration without being Delicate, green apple and with red fruit characters thanoverblown and oily. lemon aromas and very good those you would find in cool- 21 TASTED depth and persistence of crisp climate regions. 15 AWARDEDGartelmann Jessica citrus varietal flavours. $22Hunter Valley Verdelho Tempus Two Hunter Valley Drayton’s Family Wines A very solid class with both2012 HHHHH Verdelho 2011 HHH1/2 Hunter Valley Merlot the younger and vibrant newerA powerful fruit-driven style Bright lemon and pineapple 2011 HHHH style of shiraz, and older savourywith fresh tropical aromas, with aromas with floral notes, and a A nose of blackberries, cloves wines. “Nice to see some pepperdelightful hints of honeysuckle delicate palate with refined, fruit and spices. Palate quite firm and spice characters in some ofand figs. Palate is bursting with flavours and crisp acidity. $14.99 and tannic for a merlot, with up- these medium-bodied wines”,lovely, lively, fruit flavour intensity Tamburlaine Reserve front, spicy berry fruit flavours. said one judge. “Also good to seeand excellent acidity. $20 Hunter Valley Verdelho Nice leafiness. 5+ $20 lower alcohol levels!” 2011 HHH1/2Two Rivers Hidden Hive A burst of citrus on the nose. James Estate HunterHunter Valley Verdelho Nice weight of varietal fruit on Valley Petit Verdot2011 HHHHH the palate. Acidity offering a 2010 HHHFirm and fruity with complex freshness rarely seen in this Smells of candied fruit and boiledfruit nose showing touches of variety. $30 lollies, with a big, powerfulspices and honeysuckle, with Mount View Estate Hunter palate. Needs time. $16similar characters on the crisp Valley Verdelho 2012 HHHand very refreshing palate that Light, spicy, lychee-like aromas. Gartelmann Hunter Valleylingers on. $16 Citrus fruit predominant on the Merlot 2010 HHH slippery palate. $19 Soft, leathery aromas with a hint of allspice. Up-front, cassis/plum palate with very firm tannins. $25 Gartelmann Stephanie SHIRAZ BLENDS Hunter Valley Verdelho Semillon 2012 HHH 3 TASTED Prominent varietal bouquet 3 AWARDED and lifted, aromatic, fruit- driven palate. Good regional Good, easy drinking wines! characters. $20 James Estate The Estate Draytons Family Wines Ernest Hill Shareholders Hunter Valley Verdelho Oakey Creek Hunter Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011 HHH Valley Shiraz Cabernet 2011 HHHHH An old-fashioned style that one 2011 HHH1/2 A very enjoyable wine - crimson judge thought would go well Deep crimson wine exhibiting red in colour with a spicy, with rich, oily food. Nice spicy leafy cassis aromas with blackberry nose showing a hint fruit. $16 attractive, fleshy, red fruit on the of eucalypt. Intense varietal fruit palate. Good flavour length. $12 flavours supported by spicy oak OTHER DRY and supple tannins. Built to last! WHITES Bimbadgen Hunter Valley Shiraz Viognier +5 $30 1 TASTED 2010 HHH1/2 1 AWARDED Intriguing nose - typical Hunter “sweaty saddle” characters. Drayton’s Family Wines Long, firm and complex palate. Hunter Valley Traminer Will age well. 5+ $26 2012 HHHHErnest Hill Rosalie Joan A powerful nose with lotsHunter Valley Verdelho of honeyed lychee fruit and2011 HHHH1/2 a luscious, tropical palateCitrus aromas edged with heightened by some residualbutterscotch-like notes. Good sugar. Be great with spicysweet/sour flavour impact on food! $20a well-balanced, complex andnicely textured palate. Finisheswell. $22 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 111

HUNTER VALLEY Lindemans Bin 1100 Tempus Two Reserve Hunter Valley Copper Series Hunter Shiraz 2011 HHHH Valley Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 Hints of raspberries and spice A lean and tight wine but on the nose and a youthful, will open nicely with some grippy, assertive, tannic palate time. Raspberry-like fruit at with black fruits driving through the ripe end of the spectrum. the middle. 3-5 $50 5+ $19.99 Lindemans Bin 1105 Mount View Estate Hunter Valley Shiraz Reserve Hunter Valley 2011 HHHH Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 Oak-seasoned fruit aromas Blackcurrant and cranberries on with a spicy lift and dense the nose. Pleasing softness to fruit flavours with delicate oak the succulent fruit palate with balance. A pleasant wine that up-front flavours. $35 will live for years. 5+ $30 RidgeView Impressions Drayton’s Family Wines Hunter Valley Shiraz Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011 HHH 2011 HHHH Sweet oak characters on the Bubblegum and blackberries nose and up-front, ripe fruit on the nose with soft, up-front, flavours leading to a firm, fruit flavours on the palate. tannic finish. 3-5 $30 Quite acidic at this stage. Needs cellaring. 5+ $15 Two Rivers Reserve Hunter Valley Shiraz 2009 HHH Tamburlaine Hunter Valley Light, up-front style showingErnest Hill William Ernest Hill William Shiraz 2011 HHHH the benefit of time in theHenry Hunter Valley Henry Hunter Valley Smoky aromas overlay some bottle. Youthful fruit, toasty oak,Shiraz 2010 HHHHH Shiraz 2011 HHHH1/2 almost granite-like characters firm tannins. 3-5 $24Lovely colour concentration and A bigger, richer style of shiraz and hints of black pepper whicha classic nose of red berries, with a regal red colour and flow through to the rich, fruitspices and toasty coconut oak. brimming over with ripe plum-like palate. 5+ $44 SWEET WHITEPowerful, oak-driven palate but fruit and oak-derived vanilla, and & FORTIFIEDhas plenty of sweet red and butterscotch complexity. Plenty of Mistletoe Homeblack fruit below. A wine with potential. 5+ $40 Vineyard Hunter Valley 2 TASTEDstyle. 5+ $40 Shiraz 2010 HHHH Toasty aromas with a 2 AWARDED suggestion of berries and Tamburlaine Reserve cherries. Attractive sweet Hunter Valley Shiraz raspberry flavours, grippy 2010 HHHH1/2 tannins and balancing oak. Mistletoe Hunter Valley Vibrant, crimson wine with Petite Muscat 2009 HHHH powerful, peppery/cherry 3-5 $25 Smells of candy and aromas and hints of leather. honeysuckle. Loads of sweet, A very traditional Hunter-style fleshy apricot and dried pear- shiraz palate - still closed but will Hungerford Hill Collection like flavours - but not overly reward a wait. 5+ $44 Pokolbin Hunter Valley sweet. Very pleasant wine. $18 Syrah 2010 HHHH Bimbadgen Estate Hunter Some pepper and spice on the Valley Fortified Verdelho nose and good core of varietal NV (375ml) HHH fruit on the palate balanced by A lightly fortified style with a oak and tannins. High level of rich concentration of varietal acidity. 5+ $45 fruit and warming alcohol. $26 Tempus Two Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 STAR RATINGS  A lighter style with spicy, earthy notes to the blackberryThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of nose and sweet, red fruitexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. flavours with restrainedAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry tannins. 3-5 $14.99professionals and are compared in peerclasses by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 160. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au112 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

4-6JUNE2013BEIJING LEADING EXHIBITION AND CONFERENCE THE POTENTIAL FOR WINE IN CHINA IS HUGE.To market Australia and New Zealand BOOK YOUR STAND SPACE as countries of origin with serious NOW AND GET A FOOTHOLD quality wines, contact: IN THE LATEST ‘NEW WORLD’ Peter Jackson WINE TREND. Winestate Publishing Tel.: +61 (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected]

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINNORTH EAST VICTORIAENJOY ITALIAN our patriarch, who made the big trip over silverbeet, spinach, red onions, mint asHOSPITALITY from Italy in 1967 to start a life in the King well as herbs: parsley, thyme, marjoram, Valley,” says winemaker Michael Dal Zotto. sage, chives, rosemary, basil and garlic areTHE Dal Zotto cellar door in the King Valley “We pride ourselves on giving every visitor all sourced from the garden, along with ahas established itself as one of the de rigueur a world-class experience. Whether it’s a range of tomatoes. Eggs are provided bydestinations for anyone visiting the region. simple tasting with a new wine drinker or a the property’s own hens and there are alsoThis family operation offers unmatched more in-depth conversation with a serious chestnut, nectarine, plum, lime and lemonItalian hospitality, whether at cellar door or wine lover, we thoroughly enjoy every trees, says head chef Emma Handley. Phonethe trattoria that serves hearty Italian dishes interaction.” The cellar door is open seven (03) 5756 2000. www.villagusto.com.au.at weekends only. Visitors are welcome to days a week. Dal Zotto Wines, Main Rd,engage in banter with family members, taste Whitfield, Victoria; phone (03) 5729 8321. HARVEST HIGHLIGHTa glass of prosecco or maybe engage in a www.dalzotto.com.au.game of bocce. The weatherboard cellar THE Beechworth Harvest Celebration, helddoor is light-filled and cosy, and the tasting LUXURY HIDE-AWAY annually each May, is one of the highlightsexperience is a relaxed one. Tastings can of the food and wine year. At its new homealso be heightened with a rustic Italian meal VILLA Gusto in the beautiful Buckland Valley, in Beechworth’s police paddocks, theat the trattoria, affectionately known as the outside Bright, is one of Victoria’s best-kept producer’s picnic features more than 60“tratt”. From simple antipasto combinations luxury travel secrets. An Italian-style country gourmet producers from Beechworth, theto delicious gnocchi dishes and handmade villa, built using imported Italian marble, King Valley, Alpine Valleys, Glenrowan,pasta, family matriarch “Nonna Elena” wrought and cast-iron and limewashes, Villa Milawa and Rutherglen showcasing theirDal Zotto works in the property’s garden Gusto could be in Calabria or Sicily rather wares. Roast chestnuts, seasonal fruits,to produce the fresh ingredients for the than rural Victoria. A maximum of 16 guests local chocolates and cheeses are all onkitchen. And all Dal Zotto wines are available are welcomed at any one time and there the menu, along with local honey, winesto purchase by the glass. The Dal Zotto is an emphasis on Sicilian and Calabrian and ales. The culinary theatre featuresfamily also hosts regular food and wine cuisine, along with both local and imported cooking demonstrations, while the wineevents throughout the year, details of Italian wines. The restaurant is only open room offers the opportunity to learn about some of the best local drops. For fullwhich can be found on the family website. Thursday to Sunday but has been a regular details and confirmed date see www.The next is the Primavera del Prosecco recipient of The Age Good Food Guide hats. harvestcelebration.com.au.Festival, from November 16-18, and the Most of the vegetables and herbs usedTutti a Tavola Cena degustation dinner on in the cooking come from the villa’s own TIME FOR SMOKOthe evening of November 16. The Dal Zotto expanded kitchen garden, part of ownerexperience has been recognised among Colin McLaren’s sustainability program. LOOKING for somewhere with a bit of wowAustralia’s top cellar doors, recognition that Artichokes, strawberries, asparagus, factor to stay in while you visit the north-east?“has to be one of the proudest moments beans, rhubarb, radicchio, broccoli, The House at Smoko might fit the bill. It is aof our 24-year history – especially for Otto, rainbow beets, beetroot, zucchini, eggplant, luxurious new farm-style homestead nestled114 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

travelbriefsin the foothills of the Victorian Alps just 10 cheese making to bread making, chocolate BRIGHT IDEASminutes out of Bright and 30 minutes from truffle making, preserving, honey, spinningMount Hotham. Surrounded by farmland, and other artisan skills. Meanwhile, down THE delightful hamlet of Bright should bethe house features chic interior design using the road at Brown Brothers, the Epicurean on the agenda for any food and wine loverlocal stone and timber along with corrugated Wine Room was launched in July as an visiting north-east Victoria. Nestled amongiron that is in keeping with its surroundings. adjunct to the popular Epicurean Centre. the picturesque slopes of Victoria’s HighInspired by neighbouring cattlemen’s Country, Bright also offers plenty of activitieshuts and tobacco drying kilns, the house Established in 1994 as an extension of the throughout the year, from a visit to theboasts dramatic views of Mount Feathertop, Brown family’s passion for matching wine Victorian Alps, to the region’s national parksthree bedrooms and bathrooms, spacious and food, the Epicurean Centre now offers and enjoying local food and wine. Renownedmodern kitchen, coffee machine, an open visitors a new space with an intimate, casual chef Patrizia Simone has opened a newfireplace, LCD TV and DVD player, laundry vibe, to fully engage in all the pleasures cooking school across the road from her of matching the wines with regional food. “hatted” Simone’s Restaurant. Guests canfacilities, an outdoor entertaining deck with accompany her on walking tours searchingstone fireplace and gas barbecues. Then Katherine Brown describes the Epi.Curious for wild herbs and mushrooms and visit localthere is the fresh alpine air. The House at Wine Room as the perfect partner to the a-la producers, before getting hands-on classesSmoko is the perfect retreat for couples, carte dining option in the Epicurean Centre. in Italian cooking. Classes will include salamifamilies, small groups of friends, skiers, She is hoping it will quickly become the making, Umbrian cooking, bread makingcyclists, mountain bikers, thrill seekers, “must visit” hotspot in the north-east. “We and sauces. See www.simonesrestaurant.bush walkers and food and wine lovers, have listened to feedback from our visitors, com.au/Cooking_Classes.html. Beer geeks,or those who want to do nothing but relax. who represent a wide ranging demographic, meanwhile, can get up close with four localThe House at Smoko, 691 Great Alpine and they can’t get enough of chef Douglas craft breweries, including Bright Brewery,Rd, Smoko, a three-and-a-half-hour drive Elder’s cooking,” she says. “So rather than with the launch of the Victoria’s High Countryfrom Melbourne; phone 0448 992 960. turn visitors away when fully booked or for Brewery Trail. The pocket guide is packedwww.thehouseatsmoko.com.au. the time-poor gourmand, Douglas’s small with brewery stats, brewer bios and frothy artful dishes crafted from mostly local facts from the four local micro breweries,DISCOVER THE LOST ARTS produce, will tick all the boxes.” There are including Black Dog Brewery (Taminick), plans to introduce tastings with wine flights Bridge Road Brewers (Beechworth), BrightMILAWA may only be a speck on the map, and wine sessions such as comparing Brewery (Bright) and Sweetwater Brewingbut there is always something happening. back vintages, tasting alternative varietals Company (Mount Beauty).A new purpose-built workshop facility and meet the maker. Seasonal “pop-up”focused on rediscovering the lost arts has experiences such as prosecco bars are NOTHING TO SNEEZE ATopened at the Milawa Cheese Factory. also in the pipeline. The Epi.Curious WineThe Centre for Culinary Excellence is offering Room is open daily from 11am - 4pm while PEPPERS Retreats and Lodges hashands-on classes that cover topics from the Epicurean Centre is open for lunch from expanded to include its first ski mountain noon-3pm daily; phone (03) 5720 5540. property with Rundells Alpine Lodge in the Mount Hotham ski fields joining the group’s portfolio. Peppers Rundells Alpine Lodge boasts a colourful 108-year history and offers an alpine lodge experience, surrounded by alpine walks, mountain bike tracks and cross country ski trails. It is open year-round and Graze restaurant specialises in regional produce from Gippsland and Victoria’s High Country. See www.peppers.com.au. Left: The House at Smoko. Right: Brown Brothers, the Epicurean Wine Room appetisers. Opposite page Left: Rundells Alpine lodge lounge and exterior. Right: Dal Zotto - Christian & Otto playing bocce. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 115

115 TASTED82 AWARDEDNORTH EAST VICTORIAA very strong result this year, with a high strike rate of Scion Vineyard Chambers Rosewoodquality wine tasted. With a nice selection of full-flavoured Fleur Rutherglen Vineyards Rutherglenvalley floor table wines and fortifieds and elegant reds Muscat 2012 HHH Riesling 2006 HHHHand whites from the hills, the region has a lot to offer. Spicy, aromatic, grapey Intense, toasty, kero aromas bouquet and simple, soft, spicy, with more lovely toastiness onSPARKLING Morris Rutherglen floral flavours. $22 the layered palate. Tight lemony Sparkling Shiraz acid. A lovely example of an5 TASTED Durif NV HHH PINOT GRIS/ aged riesling. $105 AWARDED Stewed cherry aromas with GRIGIO Souter’s Vineyard Alpine some molasses! Tastes of dried Valleys GewurztraminerA solid class with good North- figs and damson jam. $19.95 6 TASTED 2011 HHH1/2East flavours. “They have a Elgee Park Baillieu Myer 2 AWARDED Great floral bouquet - verygood handle on the sparkling Cuvée Brut 2008 HHH delicate and lifted with a prettystyle,” said one of the judges. Soft biscuity aromas and full Two difficult years for this variety. palate that’s all tangy and floral, creamy palate with fine acid The best had delicate flavours with a clean, drying finish. $25 backbone. Very drinkable. $45 with a touch more “amplification”. All Saints Estate Riesling 2012 HHH OTHER DRY Brown Brothers King Valley Apple-like character on the WHITE VARIETALS Pinot Grigio 2011 HHHH simple nose and refreshing & BLENDS Fragrant citrus nose with a acid palate with fresh citrus floral lift and good length of notes. $22 7 TASTED soft, delicate, apple and pear- like flavours laced with some CHARDONNAY 4 AWARDED fresh acidity. $17.40 & BLENDSBrown Brothers A good diversity of dry white Four Sisters Sibling 6 TASTEDKing Valley Pinot Noir varieties and styles - a feature Rivalry King Valley 3 AWARDEDChardonnay Pinot of the North-East. Pinot Gris 2012 HHH1/2 Mixed bag from very difficultMeunier NV HHHH1/2 Intense pear drop aromas years. One great example ofPear/melon nose developing Feathertop mingle with hints of orange what the region can achievenice toastiness. The rich palate Alpine Valleys Sauvignon peel and delicate pear flavours in texture and minerality, withfills the mouth with upfront Blanc 2012 HHHH with a firm finish. $19.95 superb fruit and acid balance.fruit flavours and showing Simple, delicate, floral/toasty complexity and a tight, stonefruit aromas with a RIESLING & Auldstone Glenrowanminerally, acid backbone. $23.90 citrussy fresh and fine flinty GEWURZTRAMINER Estate Grown ChardonnayBrown Brothers King Valley concentration of lime juice-like 2011 HHHHHProsecco 2011 HHHH flavours on the palate. $20 7 TASTED Interesting yeastiness to theLight, fresh lifted citrus nose 4 AWARDED lifted lemon and oak nose, andand dry, zippy, crisp palate with Rutherglen Estates some very stylish oak on thegood depth of sweet lime and Rutherglen Viognier A couple of excellent aged soft, complex and buttery palate,quince-like flavours with a slight Marsanne Rousanne rieslings; more floral than the with flinty, melon flavours andbrioche-like finish. $21.30 2010 HHHH lime and citrus styles, but a good acid length. $22Brown Brothers King Valley Developed toasty nose with great contrast.Prosecco NV HHH1/2 some flinty citrussy nuancesA bigger, toasty style with some and a full-flavoured, citrus/ Sam Miranda King Valleyraspberry on the nose and stonefruit palate with a tight Riesling 2008 HHHHdelicate, cut apple and lemon acid backbone. $30.95 Lovely green hues and a brightflavours on the palate. $17.90 citrus lift to the floral nose with Feathertop Alpine Valleys intense, lime juice-like flavours Savagnin 2012 HHH on a clean palate with tight acid Intense nettley/lime aromas structure. $20 and flavours with tight, tangy acid and grassy guava lift. $20116 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

regional tastingChambers Rosewood DRY RED Gapsted King Valley Brown Brothers CellarVineyards Rutherglen VARIETALS Barbera 2010 HHH Door Release King ValleyChardonnay 2009 HHH Subtle aromas of red currants Tempranillo GracianoBeefy, toasty edge to the 10 TASTED and violets with gentle mocha, 2009 HHHH1/2tropical melon nose and a ripe, cherry and herbal flavours. $27 Dark, ruby wine with a nosefull-flavoured palate. $15 7 AWARDED of berries and plums with some crushed ants thrown in!All Saints Estate Serious class of diverse varietals Morris Rutherglen Palate has loads of lip smackingFamily Cellar Chardonnay showing that the region can Cinsault 2010 HHH flavours, great persistence and2009 HHH produce a range of interesting Inky, earthy nose with a lift of good tannin structure. $19.90 CDThere’s a flintiness to the varietal reds. “They did what they berries and rich, ripe flavours Morris Rutherglengrapefruit nose and fine fruit said on the label”, said one judge. supported by assertive Grenache Shirazflavours well integrated with tannins. $21.95 2010 HHH1/2the oak. $30 Rutherglen Estates Confectionery nose with a spicy Single Vineyard MERLOT & BLENDS lift and good concentration ofMARSANNE Rutherglen Tempranillo strawberry flavours with a hint 2011 HHHH1/2 4 TASTED of violets. $22 CD3 TASTED A brooding bouquet of intense, 2 AWARDED2 AWARDED savoury, cherry aromas and Bull Paddock Wines medium-weight palate with Herbal styles on show here. Rutherglen SangioveseA variety that does well in simple berry compote flavours, Feathertop Alpine Valleys Cabernet 2011 HHHthis region. nice chocolaty oak and well- Merlot 2010 HHH Subdued, leathery, bramble integrated tannins. $20.95 Dark damson plum nose and bouquet and a firm, fruit bundleAll Saints Estate varietal fruit palate with a of a palate with a spicy lift. $18Marsanne 2010 HHH Jones Winery & Vineyard spicy, herbal edge and silkyMore of an oaky style with Rutherglen Malbec tannins. $25good citrus fruit integration and 2011 HHHH Silent Range Estateslight toffee notes. $22 Jammy and yeasty edges to Glenrowan Merlot the blueberry nose, and dark 2009 HHHAll Saints Estate concentrated berry flavours Persistent plum and beetrootFamily Cellar Marsanne on the palate. “A worthy food bouquet, and interesting ripe2010 HHH partner,” said one judge. $35 fruit flavour profile. $25Soft pear aromas with delicatetoastiness and fresh, subtle, Sam Miranda King Valley OTHER REDlemon/melon palate. $30 Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 BLENDS Cherry nose with some herbalROSÉ savouriness. More cherries on 5 TASTED the juicy palate nicely supported2 TASTED by a fine tannic spine. $25 3 AWARDED1 AWARDED Sam Miranda Etiquette Mixed bag of red blends.One nice example offering Janune 141 King Valley Some worked while othersgood consumer appeal. Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 provoked the question: Strawberries and cherries on “What were they thinking?”Victorian Alps Winery the nose with subtle, leatheryTobacco Road Rosé notes. Rich, earthy and savoury2012 HHH palate - fine tannin length. $40A lively, pretty, baby pink winewith attractive, spicy, Turkish Gapsted Alpine King ValleyDelight characters. $14 Saperavi 2008 HHH1/2 A full-bodied, ripe and inky wine with lovely concentration of berry compote, crisp acid and firm tannins. $27Cate Looney Marc Scalzo JUDGESWinemaker for Brown Senior winemaker,Brothers’ Milawa Winery. Rutherglen Estates. David DarlowPreviously worked as Previously with Brown Senior winemaker atwinemaker at Scotchman’s Brothers for seven years. Buller Wines. FormerlyHill Winery and has Wine judge at the Cool winemaker at Princevintaged in Sonoma, Climate wine show, Hill Wines. Wine salesCalifornia. Associate judge Mediterranean Show and at Laithwaites Winesat the Australian Inland Associate of Rutherglen (UK) and vintages atWine Show, Victorian and Victorian wine shows. Gainey Winery andWine Show and the NSW Mountadam Winery.Small Winemakers’ Show. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 117

NORTH EAST VICTORIADURIF Mount Prior CABERNET Black Label Rutherglen & BLENDS8 TASTED Durif 2005 HHHH8 AWARDED A big wine. Ageing well. 9 TASTED Chocolaty caramel and prune 4 AWARDEDExcellent class of powerful wines aromas and full, mouthcoating “The standout wines hadwith great flavour and tannins. tannins on the earth/jammy varietal definition, brightness“Wines of dimension, said one palate. 5+ $29 of fruit and cabernet length,”judge. “A highlight of the region.” said one of the judging panel. Baileys of Glenrowan Morris Rutherglen Durif 2010 HHH1/2 Cabernet Sauvignon Chocolaty, licorice bouquet 2010 HHHH and lingering, plum fruit cake Smells of dark berries and flavours with a tarry finish. licorice. Well structured, inky “Will age brilliantly,” according varietal palate is layered with to one judge. $25 spices and herbal/tobacco characters. $19.95 Rutherglen Estates Single Baileys of Glenrowan Vineyard Rutherglen Durif Auldstone Glenrowan Glenrowan Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Estate Grown Cabernet 2010 HHHH Lifted youthful licorice and Sauvignon 2010 HHHH Intense aromas of dark berries tobacco aromas and finely Dark and brooding inky varietal and spices. Full-bodied palate balanced, berry fruit palate. Good nose and a long, well-balanced with inky flavour concentration, tannins. Very drinkable. $22.95 palate loaded with blackcurrant integrated oak and silky-smooth flavours showing soft herbal tannins. $25Baileys of Glenrowan Morris CHM Rutherglen notes. $26 Morris Rutherglen ShirazGlenrowan Petite Sirah Durif 2007 HHH1/2 Feathertop Alpine Valleys 2009 HHH1/22010 HHHHH A simple, intense, youthful wine Cabernet Sauvignon Very drinkable shiraz in theAn inky concentration of dark with prunes and chocolate on 2008 HHH1/2 raspberry spectrum with cleverberry aromas with a perfumed the nose, and dense palate with Minty, licorice and blackcurrant and subtle balance of oak and alift followed by a rich, full- tannins cradling the fruit. $60 CD aromas, and great cassis fruit long, spicy finish. $19.95flavoured, chocolaty/cedary Feathertop and toasty oak flavour profile. Silent Range Estatepalate, with a firm tannin Summit Cru Alpine Valleys Good acid/tannin structure. $30 Glenrowan Shirazstructure and long, lingering, Durif 2010 HHH Gapsted Valley Selection 2009 HHH1/2spicy finish. $25 Inky colour, blackberry aromas King Valley Alpine Valleys Intense berry and mocha with subtle peat-like notes and Cabernet Merlot aromas and soft, earthy/ full-bodied, brambly palate. $30 2009 HHH chocolaty palate. Not complex Subtle minty cassis bouquet but a very well made wine. $25Morris Rutherglen Durif All Saints Estate Family and attractive, dark red berry Gapsted Ballerina2009 HHHH Cellar Durif 2009 HHH palate. Easy drinking. $17.50 Canopy King ValleyThe blackcurrant nose is Spicy, earthy, dark berry nose Shiraz 2009 HHHdeveloping some gamey and a rich balance of plum, SHIRAZ & BLENDS Distinct, peppery characters oncharacters. Palate is a basket prune and licorice flavours. $60 the brooding nose. Beautifullyof fruit developing spicy, 12 TASTED layered and balanced licoriceytoffee elements. Big oak hit. 9 AWARDED palate. $27 The judges found this a solid, Rutherglen Estates Red 5+ $28.95 if unspectacular group. “Juicy Rutherglen Shiraz mid-palate was the key with Durif 2009 HHH STAR RATINGS  balancing oak“. A warm, balanced wine with intense chocolaty characters,Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of subtle fruit and grainyexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. tannins. $13.95All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry Jones Winery & Vineyardprofessionals and are compared in peer Rutherglen Shirazclasses by three judges. 2010 HHHCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Blackberry nose with subtle,a major mail-order business. violet notes. Clean red berryCD Cellar door price. fruit palate. Has structure andCDO Cellar door only. balance. $30SO Sold out. Indigo Vineyard Secret$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Village Beechworth Shiraz Contact information pg 160. 2010 HHH Subtle blackberry aromas with RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). a peppery lift and good weightFor a complete list of what we tasted of jubey fruit flavours. $45please refer to www.winestate.com.au118 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

regional tastingRutherglen Estates Single Thinking of exporting orVineyard Glenrowan importing wines to/fromShiraz 2009 HHH Australia and New Zealand?Beetroot and red berries onthe nose and simple, balanced The Italian Chamber of Commerce andpalate with slightly green, Industry in Australia offers a comprehensiveupfront fruit. $20.95 range of services to assist European wine producers and buyers to link their businessAll Saints Estate Family Baileys of Glenrowan activity with the Australian and NewCellar Shiraz 2008 HHH Winemakers Selection Zealand markets.Cooked fruit aromas with a Rare Old Topaquedash of spicy oak; medium NV HHHHH The Chamber is in the best position tobodied fruit palate with good A rich, caramel bouquet and facilitate trade in a manner that will serveoak integration. $50 fantastic complexity and individual companies on a one to one basis. lusciousness on the palate With its broad business related membership,DRY FORTIFIED with its lovely, lingering, toffee it promotes business networking and provides flavours and rancio lift. Some commercial services to assist with the2 TASTED faint cold tea-like characters. $75 development of international activities.2 AWARDED The Chamber offers the following services:Two very good aperas (formerly – General consultanciessherry) with one judge – Introduction into the local marketscommenting that these would – Import/export informationcompete with any similar – Workshops, seminars, tastings, customisedSpanish styles. promotional activitiesMorris Cellar Reserve – Local market support through participationGrand RutherglenAmontillado NV HHHH at trade fairs and trade missionsRich, nutty, toffee aromasand luscious complexity of For more information contact:butterscotch flavours with Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industryzesty, orange oil elements. in Australia – MelbourneGood sugar balance. Clean Tel: 03 8341 3200 • E: [email protected]. $35 CD www.italcham.com.auMorris Mia Rutherglen Baileys of GlenrowanApera NV HHH1/2 Founder Series RutherglenNutty rancio nose with great Classic Topaque NV HHHHflor characters and complex, Intense butterscotch bouquetdeveloped flavours with a nutty and rich, chocolaty, toffeefinish and fresh acidity. $12 CD palate with nice level of rancio and some hints of fish oil andTOPAQUE cold tea. $30(FORMERLY Morris Classic RutherglenTOKAY) Liqueur Tokay NV HHHH Complex cold tea-like nose and7 TASTED luscious palate loaded with7 AWARDED flavours of apricots, toffee, hints of cold tea and someMagnificent fortifieds ranging slightly dusty notes. $18.95from younger, lighter styles to Morris Cellar Reserverare old beauties. Rutherglen Grand Liqueur Tokay NV HHHHMorris Old Premium Rare Rich rancio aromas and aLiqueur Tokay NV HHHHH zesty, high acid palate withA well-balanced, beautifully sultana-like characters, someaged and complex tokay. Some orange peel notes and obviousdark oily notes on the coffee/ nuttiness. $35 CDtoffee nose and an intense,zesty, citrus peel palate withgood rancio richness. $68 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 119

NORTH EAST VICTORIAChambers Rosewood Morris Cellar Reserve SWEET WHITES Morris Old PremiumVineyards Rutherglen Rutherglen Grand Rutherglen Rare TawnyMuscadelle NV HHH Liqueur Muscat NV 3 TASTED NV HHHHHIntense aromas of cold tea, (500ml) HHHH1/2 3 AWARDED Warm, developed and complexapricot and almonds, with similar Lovely concentration of mocha aromas with pungent ranciocharacters on the palate. $16 and nutty aromas. Palate Interesting, rich, sweet styles. intensity. Ripe, rich, lusciousGehrig Estate Wines offers a luscious mouthful of palate with a complexity ofClassic Rutherglen intense raisined flavours with Sam Miranda nutty butterscotch-like flavoursMuscadelle NV HHH peel-like zestiness and fresh King Valley Botrytis and some attractive woodyCreamy, caramel bouquet with acidity. $35 CD Semillon 2010 HHHH notes. $48dominant rancio characters and Gehrig Estate Wines Lovely apricot-like botrytiswarm, lush, oaky palate. $23.90 Grand Liqueur Muscat characters on the nose and Morris Rutherglen Vintage NV (500ml) HHHH lovely marmalade-fruit intensity Fortified 2004 HHHH1/2LIQUEUR MUSCAT Complex, toasty, fig-like on the palate with attractive Very Australian style with intense, bouquet and a richly layered honeyed notes. $25 dark, spicy, chocolaty nose11 TASTED palate with intense flavours showing a lovely spirity lift and9 AWARDED and nutty rancio complexity. Rutherglen Estates Single developed currant, MaraschinoMagnificent class again showing Has some heat. $35 Vineyard Rutherglen cherry and toasty toffee flavours.what can be achieved with Gehrig Estate Wines Fortified Early Harvest A keeper. 10+ $22 CDintense ageing of quality material. Rutherglen Classic Muscat NV HHH1/2 Muscat NV HHH1/2 Faint, spirity, strawberry-like Morris Rutherglen ClassicBaileys of Glenrowan A complexity of toffee, almonds aromas and a pretty, Turkish Tawny NV HHHHWinemakers Selection Rare and raisined aromas with a rich, Delight palate. Perfect served Younger, fresher, delicious styleOld Muscat NV HHHHH warm and lush Christmas cake with creme brulee! $20.95 that has a chocolaty nose withChocolate, toffee and raisins of a palate. $23.90 some grenache fruit showingon the nose, and lip smacking, Auldstone Glenrowan Sam Miranda through, and lovely flavour andspicy, chocolate/toffee flavours Liqueur Muscat NV HHH1/2 Snow Road King Valley spirit integration. $18.95on the lush and beautifully A spicy, muscat/raisined nose Moscato 2011 HHHlayered palate, which has overt and a classic muscat palate. It’s A clean lift of muscat aromas Auldstonerancio warmth. $75 lush, fresh, zesty and perfectly and bright, sweet, floral Herceynia GlenrowanMorris Old Premium balanced. $30 flavours on a zippy, fresh Tawny Port NV HHHHRare Liqueur Baileys of Glenrowan palate. $12 Rich, walnut complexity onMuscat NV HHHHH Founder Series Classic the nose. Lusciously rich, well-Dense brown with green/gold Muscat NV HHH1/2 FORTIFIED TAWNY balanced palate layered withhues. Smells of Christmas cake Smells of caramel and toffee & VINTAGE WINE lovely toffee, almond, licoricewith spicy, toffee elements. with a floral, perfumed and butterscotch flavours. $30Super lush palate beautifully character. Oily in the mouth; 8 TASTEDlayered and complete with warm concentration of figs and 7 AWARDED Morris Black Labelgreat flavour length. $68 raisins. $30 Rutherglen Old Tawny Morris Black Label Lovely range of rich and sweet NV HHH Rutherglen Liqueur and fuller Aussie styles of Resinous, brambly aromas with Muscat NV HHH tannins, sugar and spice. a touch of toffee and warm, aged Fresh floral/rose petal bouquet rancio chocolate palate. $14 and luscious, Turkish Delight of Morris Cellar Reserve a palate. $14 Rutherglen Grand Tawny Auldstone Late Bottle Morris Rutherglen Classic NV HHHHH Glenrowan Vintage Liqueur Muscat NV HHH Intense, aged rancio characters Fortified 2005 HHH A younger style with complex, on the nose. Ripe and luscious A thick, warm style with Christmas cake-like aromas and in the mouth with a complexity spicy fruit, alcohol heat and flavours, and a musky lift. $18.95 of dried fruit and subtle an oily finish. Years ahead of it. nuttiness, and zesty acidity woven through the palate. 10+ $36 Lovely freshness. $35 CD Subscribe to go to www.winestate.com.au120 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012



travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCANTERBURY, WAIPARA & CENTRAL OTAGORELIVE THE GLORY DAYS restaurant and wine lovers’ den”. They VISION FOR THE FUTURE boast they offer the widest selection ofTHE historic Olivers Lodge in Clyde, Central Otago wines “anywhere on the CHRISTCHURCH’S quake-hit city centreCentral Otago, has undergone a complete planet” and encourage exploration into may still be recovering from the earthquakesrestoration aimed at reflecting its significant unknown territories. The list features names that wrecked its tourism industry butplace in the history of the former gold like Felton Road, Chard Farms, Wooing the rebuilding blueprint is ‘bold andrush region. The original stone complex, Tree, Misha’s Vineyard, Grasshopper Rock, innovative' and puts Christchurch onlocated in Clyde’s historic precinct, was Carrick, Lowburn Ferry, Maude, Quartz track to again become one of the greatestbuilt by Benjamin Naylor in 1869 as a Reef and Amisfield, along with Green Man cities in Australasia, says Christchurchgeneral store, servicing the prospectors beers from Dunedin, Moet & Chandon and Canterbury Tourism chief executivewho sought their fortunes during the by the glass, Ardbeg and Glenmorangie Tim Hunter. “The blueprint sets out a veryOtago mining boom. Today, in recognition single-malt whiskies and Graham’s clear vision for the central city and reallyof its outstanding heritage value, Oliversis protected by the New Zealand Historic 10-year-old tawny port. In addition to wines shapes Christchurch as a city of the 21stPlaces Trust with a priority category listed for sale by the glass, any bottle will century - a place where everyone will wantone classification. Inspired by the past, be opened if two glasses are purchased, to come and stay,” he says. “It keeps theowners Andrea and David Ritchie have which results in a constantly changing best of the Garden City's urban layoutrestored the buildings, including the blackboard of open bottles. There’s free wifi our forefathers created, enhancing theelegant homestead, old store, coach for those who want to check up on emails city in a garden image by adding moresheds, stables and barns. Landscaping and quiet corners for those who want to parks and by shrinking the size of thehighlights the original central courtyard read a book. Food options, all homemade, CBD into a more compact, people-friendlyand gardens. Eleven rooms, divided into may include chicken stews and ragouts, space. We will have a new state-of-the-artstables and lodge accommodation, blend lamb sausage rolls, mussels in white wine, convention centre, new performing artsthe old with the new. The five stables rooms, chilli con carne or lasagne, as well as theatres, a new stadium, and a new sportsoverlooking a pretty courtyard, have a rustic wraps and choice of cheeses. Desserts and indoor swimming complex all withinambience reminiscent of the pioneering are a speciality with a choice of brownies, easy walking distance of shops, bars,days with schist walls, stone floors, rough ice cream pies, crumbles, cobblers and restaurants and cafes. Everything is going tosawn timber beams and stable doors. strudels. A Drop of Red was recently named be very accessible which will give us a realThe six lodge rooms, in contrast, offer a brand ambassador for Central Otago and marketing edge when it comes to attractingcontemporary interiors. All are individually is open for brunch, lunch and early evening national and international conferences to thedecorated. Olivers Lodge, 34 Sunderland drinks Wednesday-Sunday and for dinner city. Few other cities in the world would haveSt, Clyde; phone (03) 449 2600. www. by reservation only. You’ll find it at 344 as many top-class facilities within such aoliverscentralotago.co.nz. Kawaru Gorge Rd, SH6, Cromwell, about small geographical area.” The Accor Hotel 2km out of town; phone (03) 445 4151. group has confirmed the reopening of twoDROP IN FOR A DRINK www.adropofred.com. of its four Christchurch properties; HotelPINOT Noir lovers have been making abeeline for A Drop of Red, a rustic andatmospheric wine bar/bistro in Cromwell,Central Otago, that is owned by threefriends, one an American, one a Germanand the other a Kiwi. American PkayMaracin had dreamed of setting up a winebistro since settling in Cromwell in 2008and has partnered with New ZealanderChris McLaren and German Karl Krieg toput together a list that features around 290different pinots from 70 local producers. ADrop of Red’s owners describe their place,which opened in 2011, as “a combinationof European bistro, coffee shop, cosy122 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

travelbriefsIbis Christchurch is scheduled to reopen TIME TO CELEBRATEaround the time you read this, while NovotelChristchurch will follow with a planned GIBBSTON Valley winery is celebrating thereopening date of April 2013. 25th anniversary of the first commercial harvest of grapes in New Zealand’sBACK IN BUSINESS Central Otago. Founder Alan Brady was the first to plant and commerciallyOTAHUNA Lodge, just outside of produce wines in Gibbston Valley,Christchurch, recently celebrated its fifth harvesting pinot noir, pinot gris and a “drybirthday as a Relais & Chateaux luxury white” blend in 1987. The Central Otagohotel. While garnering attention from style region now has about 2000ha of vinespublications around the world, the heritage and over 100 producers, and this year’sicon, which dates back to 1895, has twice had total harvest is expected to be about 7000 There are also hotel rooms starting from $179 per night, including breakfasts for two. For bookings and inquiries visit www.peppers.co.nz/beacon. The property is at 33 Lake Esplanade, Queenstown; phone (03) 441 0890.to close as a result of earthquake damage. tonnes. Gibbston Valley Winery is home to DINE ON THE WILD SIDEEverything is now fully restored and the a stunning winery restaurant, a cellar doorlodge is offering a special three-night Best wine tasting facility, and New Zealand’s DINING at Wild Earth Wines in Centralof Canterbury package until April 30, 2013, largest and innovative wine cave. Otago is both a unique and affordablethat includes a welcome gift, two one-hour www.gibbstonvalleynz.com. experience. The Wild Earth menu is cookedmassages, a cooking lesson for two with entirely on founder and owner Quintinexecutive chef Jimmy McIntyre, a private NOTHING TO SNEEZE AT Quider’s unique wine barrel cooker; aguided tour of the property recognised as a used 225-litre pinot noir barrel made ofNew Zealand garden of national significance, PEPPERS Beacon Queenstown resort has French oak. Each recipe is designed toone picnic or lunch for two and a choice undergone a $1 million makeover. Named accompany wines in the Wild Earth rangeof two private guided tours: The Banks for its proximity to the beacon guiding boats and often menu items feature wild gamePeninsula and Akaroa or Arthur's Pass safely across Lake Wakatipu, Peppers and prime New Zealand shellfish served inNational Park, including a one-way journey Beacon boasts that it leads the way for a quintessentially Central Otago riversideon the TranzAlpine scenic railway. Another luxury apartment-style accommodation setting on the edge of the Kawaru Gorge.Otahuna package includes a morning round in the region. All 84 apartments (there is Choose from dishes like barrel-smokedof 18 holes at Clearwater Resort, Christchurch a choice of one-, two- and three-bedroom mussels served with seafood aioli and aGolf Club or Pegasus Golf Course followed living quarters) have uninterrupted views fennel slaw ($15), or hot-smoked salmonby a wine tasting at Pegasus Bay winery of The Remarkables mountain range and served on slaw and potato salad, or a platterand lunch at Pegasus Bay. For details of Lake Wakatipu, and the apartments have of menu favourites for two for $48. Thethese and other packages, contact Otahuna hosted the likes of Wolverine star Hugh cellar door and eatery are both open sevenLodge, 224 Rhodes Rd, Christchurch; phone Jackman, supermodel Jodie Kidd and days with tastings from 9am-5pm and food(03) 329 6333. www.otahuna.co.nz. New Zealand actor Temuera Morrison. served from 10am-4pm. Wild Earth Outdoor Kitchen and Cellar door, 803 Kawarau Gorge Rd, Cromwell; phone (03) 445 4841. www.wildearthwines.co.nz. Above: Olivers Lodge accommodation. Below: Otahuna lodge drawing room. Opposite page. Otahuna lodge, The Rhodes suite. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 123

104 TASTED73 AWARDEDC A N T E R B U RY, WA I PA R A& CENTRAL OTAGOPinot noir from Central Otago predictably dominated the Main Divide Waipara Valley Bishop’s Headtop awards, scooping three of the six, five-star awards Riesling 2010 HHHH1/2 Waipara Valley Riesling(while the Pasquale 2010 also underlined the potential From Pegasus Bay, this slightly 2011 HHH1/2for pinot noir, in favourable growing seasons, of the “spritzig” wine is great value. Gently sweet, medium styleHakataramea Valley, in South Canterbury). The panel also Crisp and lively, it’s a medium with ripe, citrusy flavours andfound impressive sparklings, rieslings, gewurztraminers, style with lemon, lime, orange some development showing.pinot gris, chardonnays and sweet whites. peel and passionfruit flavours One judge scored it five showing excellent harmony and stars, praising it as a “Mosel,Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. depth. $19.95 spatlese style”. $25 (A, UK)Wines available in export markets are shown as Valli Old Vine Riesling(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). 2011 HHHH1/2 Pegasus Bay Bel Canto Fragrant and minerally, this Dry Riesling 2010 HHH1/2SPARKLING Quartz Reef distinctive wine was made Fleshy, yellow-hued Waipara Methode Traditionnelle from 30-year-old vines at wine with an array of3 TASTED Rosé NV HHH1/2 Alexandra, in Central Otago. grapefruit, orange peel, lime3 AWARDED Pink/orange, pinot noir-based Intense, citrusy and delicate, and toast flavours, good depth sparkling, grown at Bendigo, in it is tautly structured, finely and a hint of botrytis. Full ofA small class but proof of Central Otago, and disgorged textured and long. One for the personality, it’s already openCentral Otago’s long-suspected after two years. Light and lively, cellar. $30 (A) and expressive. $32potential for the production of with dryish, yeasty flavours, Amisfield Lowburn Terraceclassy sparkling wine. showing good harmony and Riesling 2009 HHHH Mt Beautiful length. (Biodynamic-certified.) Perfumed and lively, this North Canterbury RieslingQuartz Reef Methode $36 (A, UK, US) Central Otago wine is a light- 2010 HHHTraditionnelle Vintage bodied, medium-sweet style Still youthful, this is a medium-2007 HHHH1/2 RIESLING with strong, lemony, limey dry style from Cheviot, northRichly fragrant, creamy-textured flavours, a hint of sherbet and of Waipara, with appley, limeyblend of chardonnay (80 per 13 TASTED good acid spine. $35 flavours showing good depth.cent) and pinot noir (20 per 11 AWARDED Mount Brown Waipara $22 (A, UK, US)cent), grown at Bendigo, in Valley Riesling 2011 HHHHCentral Otago, and disgorged Riesling flourishes in the cool Fleshy, full-bodied style, Tresillian Dry Rieslingafter four years on its yeast climate of the South Island, ripely scented, with a sliver 2010 HHHlees. High-flavoured style, so it’s no surprise this was a of sweetness, very good Pale and light, this Westbiscuity and slightly buttery, strong class, attracting several depth of lemony, limey, Melton, Canterbury wine haswith impressive complexity and top awards for highly scented, slightly spicy flavours and a delicate, citrusy, appley flavoursa nutty, long finish. (Biodynamic- vibrantly fruity wines - dry rounded finish. $18 (UK) in a floral, strongly varietalcertified.) $42 (A, UK) and sweet - from Waipara and Rockburn Central Otago style, still very youthful. $22 Central Otago. Riesling 2009 HHHHQuartz Reef Drinking well now, this finely CHARDONNAYMethode Traditionnelle Greystone Brittle Star poised wine is lemony andBrut NV HHHH Waipara Valley Riesling slightly minerally, with some 6 TASTEDVivacious, complex blend of 2011 HHHHH toasty, bottle-aged complexity 5 AWARDEDpinot noir (52 per cent) and This beauty romped straight to and a tangy, lingering finish. $23chardonnay (48 per cent), grown a five-star rating from all judges. Rockburn Tigermoth A small but rewarding class inat Bendigo, in Central Otago, and From late-picked grapes, including Central Otago Riesling which Central Otago (especially)disgorged after two years on its some shrivelled berries, it was 2011 HHHH and Waipara proved their abilityyeast lees. Refined, toasty and made in a low alcohol, medium- Light, crisp and vibrantly to produce tight, elegant,crisp, with excellent tautness sweet style.The bouquet is fruity, with low alcohol, gentle ageworthy chardonnays.and length. (Biodynamic- scented and slightly honeyed, sweetness, good acid spinecertified.) $32 (A, UK, US) with a hint of marmalade; the and citrusy, appley flavours that Rockburn Central Otago palate is fresh, rich, citrusy and linger well. $33 Chardonnay 2009 HHHHH zesty, with a strong botrytis Tight and elegant, with citrusy, influence. A very harmonious appley flavours developing wine, it’s already delicious. $33 good complexity. Lively, with subtle, toasty, mealy notes, a minerally streak and a lingering finish. A top buy. $26124 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

Champion Pinot Noir of the year awarded to Lowburn Ferry Coming from one of the smallest but brightest stars in the Central Otago wine region, Lowburn Ferry Home Block Pinot Noir 2010 was the top wine from more than 1500 New Zealand & Australian Pinot Noirs tasted and judged by Winestate in 2011. CENTRAL OTAGODistributed by: UK: Black Dog Wine Agency All other enquiries: [email protected]: Young & Rashleigh (NSW) blackdogwineagency.co.ukwww.youngandrashleigh.com, Hong Kong/China: Definitive Wine Exports Ltd Artisan Winegrowers of Central OtagoEmpire Liquor (SA) [email protected] Singapore: Underground Wines Pte Ltd www.lowburnferry.co.nzDave Mullen Wine Agency (WA) [email protected]@davemullenwines.com.au

C A N T E R B U R Y, &W AC IEPNATRRAA&L OC ETNA GT ROA L O T A G OWooing Tree Main Divide Waipara Mount Brown Pasquale Waitaki ValleyCentral Otago Chardonnay Valley Sauvignon Blanc Waipara Valley Pinot Gris Pinot Grigio 2011 HHH2011 HHHH1/2 2011 HHHH 2011 HHHH1/2 Fresh and lively, with buoyant,Fragrant, citrusy bouquet. Sweet-fruited, tropical fruit- Attractively scented with citrusy, slightly appley and spicyLemony, slightly nutty and flavoured wine with lifted thiols rich, ripe pear/spice flavours flavours, crisp and dry. As onecreamy, with fresh, finely (noted by two judges), strong showing excellent varietal judge put it: “A grigio style”. $35balanced acidity and well- yet delicate, passionfruit-like character. Finely balanced,integrated oak (fully barrel- flavours that linger well and a silky-textured wine, offering Serendipity Vineyardfermented, 35 per cent new). creamy-smooth finish. From fine value. $18 (UK) Central Otago Pinot GrisEnjoyed by all panelists (two Pegasus Bay. $19.95 Domain Road Vineyard 2011 HHHdescribed it as “Chablis-like”). $30 Central Otago Pinot Gris Freshly scented, dryish style Amisfield Sauvignon 2011 HHHH with crisp lemon, apple andGreystone Waipara Valley Blanc 2011 HHH Refined, full-bodied Bannockburn pear flavours, a minerally streakChardonnay 2011 HHHH Fresh, crisp, Central Otago wine wine, fresh-scented, with vibrant and satisfying depth. $25Pale gold, weighty wine with with good weight and citrusy, pear and spice flavours, showingrich stonefruit flavours, dry, limey, slightly grassy flavours very good delicacy and depth, GEWURZTRAMINERslightly spicy and honeyed. showing decent depth. $25 (A) a minerally streak and a lengthyReady to roll. $33 (A) finish. $27 (A, UK) 3 TASTED Domain Road Vineyard 3 AWARDEDPegasus Bay Virtuoso Sauvignon Blanc 2011 HHH Pasquale HakatarameaChardonnay 2009 HHHH Fresh, appley, limey wine, Pinot Gris 2011 HHHH Gewurztraminer suits theFleshy, rich Waipara wine grown at Bannockburn, in From the elevated Hakataramea coolness of the lower Southwith a fragrant, slightly oaky Central Otago. Strongly varietal, Valley, in South Canterbury, Island, yielding aromatic, vibrantlybouquet and strong grapefruit- clearly herbaceous style with this characterful wine is full- fruity wines, intensely varietal.like flavours, slightly minerally, nettley notes. $27 (A, UK) bodied and dry, with strong,rich and rounded. $49 peachy, spicy flavours, slightly Rockburn Spitfire Central Mt Beautiful North leesy notes (mentioned by two Otago GewurztraminerTresillian Chardonnay Canterbury Sauvignon panelists), good complexity and 2011 HHHH1/22010 HHH Blanc 2011 HHH a creamy-smooth finish. $35 Ripely perfumed, medium-sweetLight-bodied, restrained style, Mouthfilling style with satisfying Bellbird Spring Dry Pinot style, intensely varietal, withgrown on Banks Peninsula, in depth of fresh, ripely herbaceous Gris 2011 HHH1/2 rich lychee and spice flavours,Canterbury, and mostly handled flavours and a fully dry, smooth Barrel-fermented style, full- showing excellent delicacy andin tanks (15 per cent barrel- finish. $19.95 (A, UK, US) bodied and dry, with peachy, depth, and a seductively smooth,fermented). Fresh and citrusy, nutty, creamy characters and long finish. $33with some green apple notes PINOT GRIS lots of spicy oak in evidence.and lively acidity. $25 Slightly chardonnay-like but full Pasquale Hakataramea 15 TASTED of interest. $33 Valley GewurztraminerSAUVIGNON 8 AWARDED Mãori Point Central Otago 2011 HHH1/2BLANC Pinot Gris 2011 HHH1/2 Full-bodied, dry style from South Pinot gris is a class that judges This single-vineyard wine, Canterbury, with ripe lychee and7 TASTED often approach enthusiastically - grown at Tarras, is perfumed spice flavours, and an invitingly4 AWARDED but then come away feeling and strongly varietal, with perfumed bouquet. $32 a bit disappointed. This was vibrant peach, pear and spiceA solid class in which the typical, yielding a trio of excellent flavours and a crisp, finely Pasquale Waitaki Valleytop wine showed Waipara’s wines from Waipara, Central balanced finish. $24 Gewurztraminerability to produce highly Otago and the Hakataramea Amisfield Central Otago 2011 HHH1/2attractive sauvignon blanc at Valley, but also numerous wines Pinot Gris 2010 HHH Perfumed, with very gooda reasonable price. that were marked down for Developing well, still fresh depth of finely balanced lychee plainness or dilution. and lively, with a hint of oak and spice flavours, dryish and (from 20% barrel fermentation) minerally. $32 and dryish, lemony, appley, lingering flavours. $30 (A)JUDGES Michael Cooper Carol Bunn Matt Deller Winestate’s New Zealand Raised in Central Otago, Based in Auckland, Matt editor is author of the Carol was the highly was formerly sales internationally acclaimed Wine acclaimed winemaker at director of Bennett & Atlas of New Zealand and Akarua for several years Deller Wine Merchants the annual Michael Cooper’s before joining Vinpro, and is currently wine Buyer’s Guide to New Zealand where she made Central program director of Wines. In the 2004 New Otago wines for many the Fine Wine Delivery Year Honours, Michael was growers. Today Carol Company. appointed an Officer of the makes wine for a few New Zealand Order of Merit selected clients. for services to wine writing.126 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

regional tastingOTHER WHITES ROSÉ Bannock Brae Goldfields Bannock Brae Barrel Central Otago Pinot Noir Selection Central Otago6 TASTED 2 TASTED 2010 HHHHH Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH1/23 RECOMMENDED 1 AWARDED A wonderful buy. Deep Bannockburn red with and youthful in colour, this bold, dense colour. HighlyPasquale Hakataramea Mãori Point Central Otago Bannockburn red is powerful, concentrated, with powerfulValley Arneis 2011 HHHH Pinot Noir Rosé 2011 HHH with bold cherry, plum and blackcurrant and plum flavoursFresh and strong, with an array of Deep pink, full-bodied slight licorice flavours, earthy, and a hint of licorice. One judgelemon, apple and herb flavours, wine, grown at Tarras, with smoky notes adding complexity, described it as ”lmost syrah-showing clear cut varietal strawberry and spice flavours, and a finely textured, lingering like”. $65 (A, UK)character, and excellent fragrance, fresh and smooth, and a touch finish. Admired by all judges. Valli Bendigo Vineyardvibrancy and depth. $35 of complexity. $20 $29.95 (A, UK) Central Otago Pinot NoirPasquale Hakataramea Pasquale Hakataramea 2010 HHHH1/2Valley Alma PINOT NOIR Valley Pinot Noir Dense, complex red, deeplyMater 2011 HHH1/2 2010 HHHHH coloured, with bold, plummy,Estate-grown at 300m above 44 TASTED Classy, notably rich South spicy, complex flavours andsea level in South Canterbury, 30 AWARDED Canterbury red. Deeply coloured, the structure to mature well.this is a distinctive blend of pinot with fresh, very generous plum Powerful style that “needsgris, riesling and gewurztraminer. No surprises here – the top and spice flavours, showing steak or game”, suggested oneMouthfilling, fleshy and dry, it is four-star and above results excellent concentration, ripeness judge. $65creamy-textured, with pear and were dominated by Central and complexity. High-priced –spice flavours and a rounded Otago reds, spanning the 2007 but worth it. $72 Wild Earth Central Otagofinish. $32 to 2011 vintages. All of the Valli Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH1/2Pasquale Waitaki Valley five-star wines flowed from the Vineyard Central Otago Still fresh, with excellent depthViognier 2010 HHH1/2 outstanding 2010 harvest. Pinot Noir 2010 HHHHH of dried fruit, grilled meat andDrinking well now. Fresh, Very powerful style with bold, spice flavours, good harmonycrisp and dry, with a hint of Bald Hills Single Vineyard youthful colour. Sweet-fruited, and complexity, and fine-oak on the nose, mouthfilling Central Otago Pinot Noir with densely packed plum, grained tannins. $42body, strong, ripe fruit 2010 HHHHH cherry, herb and licorice flavoursflavours, showing some mealy Very classy Bannockburn red, and obvious cellaring potential.complexity, and a dry, finely harvested at 25 brix and matured Sophisticated, complex red,textured finish. $40 in French oak barriques (50 per rated highly by all judges. $65 cent new). Deeply coloured, with notably concentrated, well- ripened cherry and plum flavours, spicy, complex and savoury. It should be long-lived. $48Clearview LodgeAt the entrance to Clearwater Golf Resort Relax just 10mins from Christchurch Airport and 15mins to the central city and 4 top golf courses. Wander 10 acres of vineyard, orchard and olives or relax in the peaceful private garden or heated pool. Romance under the stars in the spa or take a candle lit bubble-bath. Our delicious Pinot Noir and port are very popular, enjoyed with various homemade treats. To book now contact us at: Clearview Lodge (5 Star Qualmark, Enviro-Gold) 8 Clearwater Avenue, Harewood Christchurch 8051 Website : www.clearviewlodge.com Email: [email protected] Ph +643 3595797 Fax +643 3589131 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 127

C A N T E R B U R Y, WA I PA R A & C E N T R A L OTAG O Alexandra Davishon Sacred Hill Prospector Central Otago Pinot Noir Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH 2010 HHHH Full of youthful charm, this ruby Generous, fruit-packed red. hued red is flavoursome, with Deeply coloured, with very strong, fresh cherry and herb ripe plum, cherry, spice and fruit characters, silky tannins slight licorice flavours, chewy and a floral bouquet. $36 tannins and impressive depth. Amisfield RKV Reserve $60 (UK, US) Central Otago Pinot Noir Valli Gibbston Vineyard 2007 HHHH Central Otago Pinot Noir Deep, moderately youthful 2010 HHHH colour. Concentrated and Deeply coloured and youthful, supple, with cherry, plum, this is a very elegant red, with herb and nut flavours, showing rich cherry and plum flavours excellent complexity and woven with fresh acidity and harmony. Maturing very fine-grained tannins. It’s not a gracefully. $95 blockbuster but shows excellent Ellero Pisa Terrace depth and finesse. $65 Central Otago Pinot Noir Greystone Waipara Valley 2010 HHHH Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH Instantly attractive wine, finely Full-coloured and firmly textured, with deep colour and strutured, with strong, coffee fresh, rich plum, dried herb and and spice flavours, and hints spice flavours. Elegant and silky of herbs and olives. One judge smooth. $39 scored it five stars. $40 (A) © Tourism New Zealand. Lowburn Ferry Wooing Tree Central Otago The Ferryman Reserve Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH © Tourism New Zealand. Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH Deeply coloured, this single-128 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012 Dark, powerful red with vineyard Cromwell red is rich, concentrated, ripe plum, vibrantly fruity and supple, with spice and herb flavours, finely concentrated cherry, plum and integrated French oak and firm, spice flavours, and a fresh, fine-grained tannins. Well worth tightly structured finish. Best cellaring. $85 (A) drinking mid-2013+. $46 (A, UK) Quartz Reef Central Otago Bald Hills Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH Central Otago Pinot Noir Savoury, complex Bendigo red, 2009 HHH1/2 full-coloured, with concentrated Full, slightly developed colour. cherry, plum and spice Firm and flavoursome, with flavours, well-integrated oak some “feral” notes on the and a long finish. Harmonious nose and some savoury, smoky wine with good density, complexity. $48 (A) still unfolding. (Biodynamic- Rochfort Rees certified.) $45 (A, UK, US) Central Otago Pinot Noir Rockburn Central Otago 2010 HHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH Deeply coloured, with hints Drinking well now, this is a of tobacco and pepper, classic regional style, full- moderately concentrated plum bodied, with sweet-fruit and dried herb flavours, and characters, generous cherry, good freshness and vigour. $28 plum and spice flavours, and Rockburn Central Otago good tannin support. $45 Pinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2 Three Miners Still very youthful and coming Central Otago Pinot Noir together, this full-flavoured, 2011 HHHH cherryish, plummy, spicy Grown at Alexandra, this ruby red shows good complexity. hued red has good density of Deeply coloured, it is weighty spice and dried herb flavours, and tightly structured; open with savoury notes adding mid-2013+. $45 complexity, slightly chewy Selaks Reserve tannins and a welcoming, Central Otago Pinot Noir perfumed bouquet. $30 2011 HHH1/2 Grown at Alexandra and mostly barrel-aged, this is a generous, full-coloured red, spicy and firm, with some complexity. (From Constellation NZ.) $22

regional tastingThe Aurora Mt Beautiful North Aurora Vineyard Bendigo Pasquale Waitaki ValleyVineyard Bendigo Canterbury Pinot Noir Central Otago Syrah HHH/2 Plump 2011Pinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2 2011 HHH Deeply coloured, with a (375ml) HHHH1/2Full, bright ruby, with sweet- Ruby hued red from the Cheviot fresh, very peppery bouquet. This late-harvested, barrel-fruit characters, strong, Hills with generous plum, spice Vibrant and youthful, with fermented pinot gris shows aplummy, spicy, slightly oaky and herb flavours, and a hint strong, fresh, plum and pepper very clean botrytis influence,flavours and a firm backbone of of confectionery, noted by two flavours, distinctly spicy. Worth with rich grapefruit, peartannin. Worth cellaring. $40 judges. $33 (A, UK, US) cellaring. $38 and marmalade aromas andThe People’s Pasquale Waitaki Valley flavours, a hint of sherbet, andCentral Otago Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Main Divide Waipara excellent vigour and depth. $282011 HHH1/2 Deeply coloured, with a Valley Merlot Cabernet Pasquale Waitaki ValleyRuby hued red, sweet-fruited, slightly rustic bouquet. Plenty 2009 HHH Passito 2011with fresh acidity and generous of flavour, plummy, spicy From Pegasus Bay, this is an (375ml) HHHHcherry, plum and spice flavours, and herbal, and some ageing easy-drinking blend of merlot This distinctive wine is a blendshowing some potential. (From potential. $50 (50 per cent) and cabernet of riesling (60 per cent) andConstellation NZ.) $23 Selaks Winemaker’s sauvignon (40 per cent), with pinot gris (40 per cent), “pickedValli Waitaki Vineyard Favourite Central Otago splashes of malbec and cabernet early, dried for concentration”Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2011 HHH franc. Full-coloured, it has and barrel-fermented. BrightFull-coloured, finely structured Medium-bodied style with deep, generous, green-edged flavours, yellow, it is full-flavoured,red. Two judges noted a bright colour and cherry, tomato fresh, plummy and spicy. $20 with sweet (128 grams/litre ofpronounced herbal influence, and spice flavours that show a residual sugar), citrusy, slightlybut the wine has generous plum green herbal influence. $24 SWEET WHITES spicy flavours, lively acidity andand herb flavours, with well- good concentration. $25integrated oak adding complexity OTHER REDS 5 TASTED Pasquale Waitaki Valleyand silky tannins. $65 5 AWARDED Shrivel 2011Wooing Tree Beetle Juice 3 TASTED (375ml) HHHHCentral Otago Pinot Noir 3 AWARDED A small but strong class in which Very rich and sweet, this late2011 HHH1/2 riesling and pinot gris made their harvested, botrytised rieslingRuby hued, medium to Pegasus Bay Maestro presence felt strongly. was barrel-fermented. Brightfull-bodied Cromwell red, Merlot Malbec 2007 HHHH yellow, it is citrusy and limey,cherryish and distinctly spicy, Drinking well now, this Waipara Valli Dolce Vita with lovely fruit richness and anwith a herbal thread and some red is a blend of merlot (50 per Late Harvest Riesling advanced level of sweetness,savoury complexity. $28 (A, UK) cent) and malbec (40 per cent), 2011 HHHH1/2 balanced by steely acidity. $28Explorer Central Otago with minor portions of cabernet Richly honeyed bouquet, with Wooing Tree Tickled PinkPinot Noir 2011 HHH sauvignon and cabernet franc. mouthfilling body (although 2011 (375ml ) HHHFrom Surveyor Thomson, this Barrel-aged for two years, it only 9 per cent alc/vol) and Light, low alcohol (9.5 per cent)Lowburn red is ruby hued, is deeply coloured and fleshy, strong, ripe lemon and honey Central Otago wine, from pinotfresh and tightly structured, with generous, spicy, nutty flavours, showing an advanced noir grapes, late-harvested andwith plum, herb and tamarillo flavours, showing excellent level of sweetness (169 grams/ stop-fermented. Pink/pale red,flavours, showing some complexity and richness. $47 litre of residual sugar). Pure, sweet and smooth, with gentlecomplexity. $28 (A, UK, US) succulent wine, from botrytis- strawberry and spice flavours affected grapes, hand-picked at and lots of charm. $38 Lowburn, in Central Otago. $60 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 129

MICHAEL COOPER’SRECENT RELEASESSeveral outstanding wines from Mountford, a lovely Mountford The Rise ½hillside vineyard at Waipara, in North Canterbury, are Waipara Pinot Noir 2009among the highlights of the latest releases, including From the steepest, west- Abbey Cellars Hawke’sarresting examples of pinot noir, chardonnay and facing, limestone slopes at Bay Gabriel Nobleriesling. Since 1997, Mountford’s wines have been made Mountford, planted in 2001, Chardonnay 2011 (375ml)by Chung Pin (‘CP’) Lin, who is blind. this lovely red was matured for Harvested at 45 brix in the 20 months in all-new French Bridge Pa Triangle, andPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. oak barrels and bottled without fermented and aged inWines available in export markets are shown as fining or filtering. Full and bright seasoned French oak barriques,(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). in colour, it is rich, supple and this dessert wine is already harmonious, in a very silky, drinking well. Golden and Mountford Estate Waipara seductive style with beautifully weighty, it offers concentrated, Chardonnay 2009 poised cherry, plum and spice apricot-like flavours, very sweetCraggy Range Les Beaux This notably powerful, complex flavours, and the concentration and honeyed, with an oilyCailloux 2010 wine was estate-grown and and structure to age well. Best texture and excellent harmonyHighly refined, single-vineyard fermented and matured for 20 drinking 2014+. $150 (US) and richness. $30wine from the Gimblett Gravels, months in French oak casks Mountford Volupteux Craggy Range Sophia 2010hand-picked and fermented and (30 per cent new). Bright, light Waipara Riesling 2011 Dark, very youthful, Gimblettmatured in French oak barriques lemon/green, it is weighty, dry, A vivacious, light (9 per cent Gravels blend, based principally(28 per cent new). Still very very classy and elegant, with alcohol) and sweet style from on merlot (63 per cent) andyouthful, with vibrant peach deep, peachy, slightly mealy, locally grown grapes with a 50 cabernet sauvignon (27 per cent),and grapefruit flavours, a hint of buttery and nutty flavours, and per cent botrytis infection. Rich, with splashes of cabernet francspice, finely integrated oak, and notable richness and harmony. citrusy, limey flavours, gently (8 per cent) and petit verdot (2lovely delicacy and depth. Subtle, Maturing superbly, it’s a star honeyed, with appetising acidity per cent). Mouthfilling, with rich,creamy-textured and long. Best wine, for drinking now or and a Mosel-like freshness, ripe blackcurrant, plum, herb,drinking 2014+. $63 (A, UK, US) cellaring. $50 (UK, US) intensity, delicacy and poise. spice and nut flavours, still freshJohn Forrest Collection Mountford Liaison Drink now or cellar. $32 (UK, US) and vibrant, well-integratedGimblett Gravels Hawke’s Waipara Pinot Noir 2009 oak (French, 44 per cent new),Bay Syrah 2007 This powerful red is not Saint Clair Omaka impressive complexity andFrom the Cornerstone Vineyard, estate-grown, but still highly Reserve Marlborough substantial body. Full of potential;this wine should be very long- impressive. Matured for 18 Pinot Noir 2010 open 2015+. $73 (A, UK, US)lived. Deep and still youthful months in French oak casks This lovely red was grown in the John Forrest Collectionin colour, it is mouthfilling and (30 per cent new), and bottled Ure Valley, half way between Gimblett Gravelsfresh, with highly concentrated, unfined and unfiltered, it is Blenheim and Kaikoura. From Hawke’s Bay Cabernetripe plum, blackcurrant and deeply coloured and finely ultra low-cropping vines (2.4 Sauvignon 2006spice flavours, finely textured scented, sturdy and sweet- tonnes/ha), it was matured for Full, slightly developed colour.and lingering. $65 fruited. A slightly “masculine” about 15 months in French oak Nutty, spicy bouquet, leadingJohn Forrest Collection style, offering lovely depth of casks (45 to 50 per cent new). into a concentrated wine withWairau Valley Riesling 2007 plum, spice and nut flavours, it Dark and fragrant, it is weighty strongly varietal, plummy, nutty,Released at over five-years- has excellent complexity and and finely textured, with a slightly herbal flavours, seasonedold, this is a beautifully harmony, and the power and compelling richness of cherry, with French oak, and a firmscented Marlborough wine, structure to age well. $46 (US) plum, spice and herb flavours. backbone of tannin. $65 (A,UK)intense and racy, with finely Drink now onwards. $45 Mountford Estatepoised, citrusy, appley The Gradient Waiparaflavours, slightly sweet, tight, Pinot Noir 2009minerally and long. $35 (A, UK) From a steep, north-facing site, this is a fragrant, very savoury red, matured for 20 months in all-new French oak casks and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Full and slightly developed in colour, it is sturdy and spicy, with “forest floor” notes and excellent complexity and depth, but in 2009 overshadowed by its stablemate, The Rise. $150 (US)130 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

recent releasesMud House Single Saint Clair Pioneer BlockVineyard Neal Vineyard 10 Twin Hills MarlboroughMarlborough Sauvignon Chardonnay 2011Blanc 2011 This powerful Omaka ValleyFrom young vines at Dillons wine was hand-harvestedPoint, in the lower Wairau and fermented and lees-agedValley, this is a fresh, vibrant, for nine months in Frenchvery aromatic and punchy wine. oak barrels. Very full-bodied,Sweet-fruited, it is pure, crisp and it is creamy-textured, withlong, with slightly grassy aromas concentrated peach, pear andand a dry, long finish. $31 (A, UK) spice flavours, showing excellentObsidian Waiheke Island freshness, delicacy, richness andChardonnay 2011 complexity, but needs a bit morePowerful, full-bodied northern time. Open mid-2013+. $34style, matured for 10 months in Saint Clair Pioneer BlockFrench oak barriques (40 per cent 11 Cell Block Marlboroughnew). Generous and sweet- Chardonnay 2011fruited, with ripe, peachy flavours, From two adjoining blocks ina hint of butterscotch, biscuity, the lower Wairau Valley, thissavoury notes adding complexity powerful wine has lapped up itsand a long finish. Drink now or strong new French oak influence.cellar. $38 (A, UK, US) Fleshy, toasty and peachy, withObsidian Waiheke Island strong, ripe, stonefruit flavours,Viognier 2011 it is mealy and complex, in anStill unfolding, this very upfront style that manages tofresh, full-bodied wine was retain freshness, harmony andestate-grown at Onetangi and drinkability. $34matured in a 50/50 split of Seifried Winemakerstanks and older French oak Collection Nelsoncasks. Creamy-textured and Gewurztraminer 2012vibrantly fruity, with strong, Exotically perfumed, this isripe, peachy flavours to the a mouthfilling, concentrated,fore, gently seasoned with intensely varietal wine withbiscuity oak, it shows excellent deep lychee, pear and spicecomplexity and richness. Worth flavours, and a strongly spicy,cellaring to mid-2013+. $44 slightly gingery finish. Still aRiverby Estate baby, it’s a slightly sweet style,Marlborough Single likely to be at its best fromVineyard Noble Riesling 2014 onwards. $25 (UK)2011 (375ml)This beauty was made from late-picked, fully botrytisedfruit. Golden, it is very sweet Ashwood Estate Gisborne(219 grams/litre of residual Chardonnay 2010sugar) and honeyed, with Elegant, ageworthy, single-concentrated, apricot-like vineyard wine, hand-picked andflavours, woven with fresh French oak-fermented. Richacidity and lovely richness. and rounded, with stonefruit$35 (A, UK) and slight butterscotch flavours, mealy and savoury. Excellent complexity and length. $32 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 131

MICHAEL COOPERJohn Forrest Collection Mountford Waipara Mud House Single Saint Clair Pioneer BlockThe White 2007 Pinot Gris 2011 Vineyard Caseys Road 4 Sawcut MarlboroughThis uniquely blended white Ensconced in a 750ml bottle, Vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay 2011is from seven varieties grown this is a honey-sweet, low Pinot Noir 2010 From the Ure Valley, 50kmin Marlborough, Hawke’s Bay alcohol (9.5 per cent/vol) style Elegant, poised and youthful, south of Blenheim, this fresh,and the Waitaki Valley. Off-dry, from fully botrytised grapes, this Awatere Valley red was full-bodied wine was fermentedit has bright, youthful colour, not estate-grown. Light grown in the Blind River and lees-aged for 10 monthswith some herbal notes coming straw, it is peachy, honeyed district, hand-picked and in French oak casks (40 perthrough on the nose. Crisp, and smooth, with gentle matured in one-year-old French cent new). Creamy-textured,vibrant and tangy, it is citrusy acidity, excellent richness and oak casks. Full ruby, it is it is slightly oak-dominated atand minerally, in a fleshy, full- harmony, and lots of drink- vibrantly fruity and supple, with this stage, but shows excellentbodied style with an array of young appeal. $29 (US) cherry, plum and slight herb potential, with strong, ripefruit flavours. $50 (A, UK) Palliser Estate flavours, showing very good citrus fruit and peach flavours,John Forrest Collection Martinborough complexity and length. Drink showing good complexity.Waitaki Valley North Chardonnay 2011 now or cellar. $34 (A, UK) Open mid-2013+. $34Otago Pinot Gris 2011 Likely to unfold well over the Mud House Single Saint Clair Pioneer BlockEnticingly floral, this is a next couple of years, this is Vineyard Hungry Hill 12 Lone Gum Marlboroughmedium-dry style with vibrant a mouthfilling, vibrantly fruity Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2011citrus fruit, lychee and pear wine with sweet-fruit delights, Chardonnay 2011 Grown in the Omaka Valleyflavours, slightly minerally, a subtle seasoning of oak and From the Ure Valley, this and matured in French oakwith excellent drive and length. a strong surge of grapefruit, barrel-fermented wine is slightly barriques (45 per cent new),Open mid-2013+. $45 peach and spice flavours, creamy, with stonefruit, pear this is a ruby hued, intenselyDancing Water Oenuku smooth and lasting. Best mid- and spice flavours, showing varietal wine with fresh,Waipara Riesling 2009 2013+. $39 (UK) fresh acidity and excellent vibrant cherry, plum and spiceThis is a robust, powerful wine Riverby Estate Marlborough complexity and depth. Best flavours and finely integrated(14.7 per cent alc), fermented Pinot Gris 2011 drinking mid-2013+. $34 (A, UK) oak. Elegant, savoury andwith indigenous yeasts and This fleshy, smooth, single- Mud House supple, it’s a good drink-now orlees-aged for a year in old vineyard wine was grown in the Single Vineyard Taggart cellaring proposition. $34 (UK)French oak barriques. Bright, heart of the Wairau Valley and Vineyard Marlborough Saint Clairlight yellow, with a slightly lees-aged for a year in tanks. Pinot Gris 2011 Pioneer Block 22honeyed bouquet, it has Soft and generous, it’s an off- Grown at Rapaura, on the north Barn Block Marlboroughstrong personality, with highly dry style with strong, peachy, side of the Wairau Valley, this Pinot Noir 2011concentrated flavours and a slightly spicy flavours, gentle is a full-bodied style, fleshy and Grown on the southern edge ofbasically dry finish. $31 acidity, and excellent harmony generous, with ripe stonefruit, the Wairau Valley, this deeplySoho Havana Marlborough and length. Delicious drinking spice and ginger flavours in an coloured red was matured inPinot Noir 2011 now onwards. $20 (A, UK, US) off-dry style, well-rounded and French oak barriques (46 perVery full-bodied (14.5 per cent Riverby Estate already drinking well. $31 (A, UK) cent new). Bold, generous andalc) with deep ruby colour Marlborough Sauvignon Riverby Estate Sali’s supple, it has very ripe plumand “forest floor” notes on Blanc 2011 Block Marlborough and red berry flavours, showingthe nose. Complex style with A bone-dry style, grown in Riesling 2011 good concentration, and aripe cherry and spice flavours, Jacksons Road, Rapaura, in the Fresh, medium style, finely well-rounded finish. It’s quiteslightly earthy and savoury, central Wairau Valley. Fresh, poised, with moderate alcohol forward; drink now or cellar. $34and good tannin support. Best ripe aromas lead into a weighty (12 per cent). Lively, with Soho Carter Waihekedrinking mid-2013+. $35 (but not high alcohol) palate strong, citrusy, slightly peachy Island Chardonnay 2011Mountford Estate Waipara with vibrant, concentrated and honeyed flavours (from Mouthfilling and sweet-Pinot Noir 2009 melon and capsicum flavours, a small portion of botrytised fruited, this weighty wine hasEstate-grown, this floral, silky slightly minerally, crisp and fruit), appetising acidity and a concentrated, ripe, stonefruittextured red was matured for tight. A “serious” style of lingering finish. Drink now or flavours seasoned with biscuity18 months in French oak casks sauvignon blanc, unfolding cellar. $20 (A, UK, US) oak. Fleshy and rounded, with(50 per cent new) and bottled well. $20 (A, UK, US) Saint Clair Omaka savoury notes adding complexityunfined and unfiltered. Fullish and Riverby Estate Reserve Marlborough and a slightly oily texture, itslightly developed in colour, it has Marlborough Sauvignon Chardonnay 2011 should break into full stride froma fragrant bouquet, suggestive Blanc Semillon 2011 Estate-grown and fermented mid-2013 onwards. $34of dried herbs, and cherry, spice Weighty, ageworthy wine and lees-aged for 10 months Seifried Nelsonand forest floor flavours, showing blended from two-thirds in American oak casks (50 per Gewurztraminer 2012excellent depth. It’s drinking well sauvignon blanc, mostly cent new), this is an upfront Musky and finely balanced, thisnow. $60 (UK, US) tank-fermented, and one-third chardonnay style, weighty ripely perfumed, mouthfillingMountford Village semillon, matured for eight and creamy-textured, with wine is a gently sweet styleWaipara Pinot Noir 2009 months in new French oak strong, ripe, citrusy and peachy with strong lychee, peach,Grown at Mountford Estate casks. Youthful, crisp, poised flavours, well seasoned with pear and spice flavours and aand in neighbouring vineyards, and punchy, with melon and sweet oak, and a smooth well-spiced finish. It’s full ofbarrel-aged and bottled unfined capsicum flavours showing finish. $34 (UK) drink-young charm. $22and unfiltered, this full-bodied excellent vigour and depth. Bestred is full of personality. Bright drinking mid-2013+. $25 (A, UK)ruby, it is mouthfilling andsupple, with strong, cherryish,spicy, nutty flavours, complexand savoury. Drink now orcellar. $32 (UK, US)132 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

recent releasesSeifried Nelson Forrest MarlboroughRiesling 2012 Pinot Noir 2011Finely scented, this is an Ruby hued, medium to full-elegant, poised wine with bodied style, sweet-fruited andexcellent depth, delicacy and finely balanced, with very gooddrive. A top vintage, with depth of cherry, plum and spicerich, citrus, slightly limey and flavours. $25 (A, UK, US)spicy flavours, and a hint Isabel Marlboroughof passionfruit, it’s already Pinot Gris 2011delicious. $22 (A, UK) Certified organic, this estate-Tatty Bogler Otago grown wine is freshly scented,Pinot Gris 2011 mouthfilling and vibrantly fruity,From Forrest Estate, this is with peach, pear, lychee anda finely scented, mouthfilling, spice flavours in a dryish stylevibrantly fruity wine with with leesy notes adding a touchstrong lychee and spice of complexity. Good food wine,flavours, woven with fresh priced right. $20acidity. Finely balanced, it’s Isabel Marlboroughstill very youthful; open mid- Pinot Noir 20092013+. $28 (A, UK, US) Ruby hued, with a savouryWeeping Sands Waiheke bouquet, this well-priced red hasIsland Tempranillo 2011 good complexity on the palate,This full-coloured, savoury, with a hint of maturity. Offeringcomplex red was matured in plum, cherry, spice and nutFrench oak casks (one-third flavours, with a hint of herbs, itnew). It is concentrated, with has finely balanced tannins andvibrant plum/spice flavours, an plenty of drink-now appeal. $23earthy streak, a good backbone Kahurangi Estateof tannin and a dry, firm, finely Nelson Syrah 2011structured finish. Drink now or Bold and bright in colour,cellar. (From Obsidian.) $35 with strong, peppery aromas.Yellow Clay Road Waiheke Intensely varietal, withIsland Chardonnay 2011 mouthfilling body, goodHand-picked and predominantly concentration of plum/spice(70 per cent) barrel-fermented, flavours, and the structurethis mouthfilling wine has to age. Best drinking mid-strong, ripe citrus fruit and 2013+. $25 (UK)peach flavours, and a slightly Mountford Estatenutty, dry, lingering finish. Very Hommage a l’Alsace 2011fresh and vibrant, it shows Estate-grown at Waipara, in theexcellent weight, concentration “Alsace Block”, this is a blendand complexity. (From of muscat, gewurztraminer,Obsidian.) $35 (UK) riesling and pinot gris. Still tight and youthful, it is fresh and½ delicate, with hints of citrus fruits, oranges, pears andBallasalla Central Otago spices, gentle sweetness andPinot Noir 2010 lively acidity. Best drinking mid-From Folding Hill, at 2013+. $46 (UK)Bendigo, this deep ruby red Mount Riley Marlboroughis mouthfilling, with cherry, Riesling 2012plum and spice flavours, fresh From two sites in the Wairauand moderately concentrated. Valley, this is a finely scented,Barrel-aged for 10 months and juicy, gently sweet wine, lightbottled unfined and unfiltered, and lively, with fresh lemon,it shows good complexity, with apple and slight passionfruitdrink-young appeal. $29 flavours, showing very goodHuntaway Reserve Central delicacy and harmony. $18Otago Pinot Noir 2011 Mount Riley MarlboroughEnjoyable young, this barrel- Sauvignon Blanc 2012aged red is ruby hued and Enjoyable from the start, thismouthfilling, with generous fresh, crisp, vibrantly fruitycherry, spice and nut spice wine offers tropical fruitflavours, a hint of tamarillo, flavours in a non-herbaceoussome complexity and fairly style, showing very goodfirm tannins. Drink now-2014. depth, ripeness, balance and(From Lion.) $24. drive. $18 (A, UK) November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 133

MICHAEL COOPERRenato Estate Reserve Soho White Weeping Sands Waiheke Saint Clair MarlboroughNelson Merlot 2011 Collection Marlborough Island Montepulciano 2011 Pinot Gris Rosé 2011From grapes harvested at 24 brix Pinot Noir 2011 From Obsidian, this deeply Pale pink, this easy-drinking winefrom 10-year-old vines at Kina, Full of drink-young charm, this coloured, barrel-aged red is an off-dry (6 grams/litre ofon the coast, this attractive red ruby hued red is mouthfilling (French, 30 per cent new) is residual sugar) blend of pinot griswas matured for a year in French and sweet-fruited, with fresh fresh, youthful, berryish and (mostly) and pinot noir. Fresh,oak barrels (16 per cent new). raspberry, cherry and spice smooth, with moderately buoyantly fruity and smooth, itDeep and youthful in colour, it is flavours, gentle tannins and very concentrated plum and spice has peach, strawberry and spicemouthfilling and smooth, with good depth and harmony. $25 flavours, showing some savoury flavours. $22 (UK)generous blackcurrant, plum and Dancing Water Tier complexity, and plenty of drink- Saint Clair Vicar’s Choicespice flavours, showing very Garden Vineyard Waipara young appeal. $35 (A, UK) Marlborough Riesling 2011good ripeness and depth. $24 Pinot Noir 2009 Freshly scented and vibrantlySaint Clair Marlborough Estate-grown, hand-harvested  fruity, this is a medium-dryGewurztraminer 2011 and fermented with indigenous style with lively acidity threadedDrinking well now, this yeasts, this North Canterbury Kahurangi Estate Nelson through its citrusy, appley, limeygenerous, soft wine was grown red has full, fairly youthful Montepulciano 2011 flavours, which show goodin the Dog Point area of the colour. It shows good Inky, purple-flushed colour. depth. Drink now-2013. $19Wairau Valley. Mouthfilling, it complexity, with savoury, Bold, fruit-packed style with Saint Clair Marlboroughis peachy and slightly gingery, cherry and spice flavours strong plum/spice flavours and Unoaked Chardonnay 2011with a sliver of sweetness, woven with fresh acidity, but firm tannins. Gutsy and sweetly Drinking well now, this is a full-spicy notes, plenty of flavour the finish shows a slight lack of oaked. $24 (UK) bodied wine with fresh, citrusyand a well-rounded finish. ripeness and roundness. $53 Floating Mountain fruit flavours to the fore, a hintReady; no rush. $22 Dancing Water Tokorima Waipara Pinot Noir 2010 of butterscotch, good vibrancySaint Clair Pioneer Block Waipara Pinot Noir 2010 Ruby hued, mouthfilling wine and depth, and a slightly5 Bull Block Marlborough Still unfolding, this North with good varietal character and creamy finish. $22Pinot Gris 2011 Canterbury red is ruby hued, depth of cherry, spice and herb Saint Clair MarlboroughSourced mostly from a vineyard mouthfilling and firmly flavours, and gentle tannins. Viognier 2011in the Omaka Valley, this is structured, with fresh plum Drink now or cellar. $29 This lively, youthful wine wasa full-bodied, fresh, distinctly and herb flavours, showing Morepork Vineyard grown in the Wairau Valleymedium style, with very good good savoury complexity. Best Northland Pinot Gris 2011 and nearly a third of the blenddepth of ripe pear, lychee and drinking 2014+. $43 Mouthfilling, creamy-textured was barrel-fermented withspice flavours, and an attractively Spy Valley Echelon wine from Kerikeri, made in indigenous yeasts; the rest wasscented bouquet. $25 Marlborough Methode a slightly sweet style with handled in tanks. Mouthfilling,Saint Clair Pioneer Block Traditionnelle 2009 ripe pear and spice flavours, it is vibrantly fruity, with ripe,16 Awatere Marlborough Very crisp and lively, this blend showing good freshness and citrusy, peachy flavours and aPinot Noir 2011 of pinot noir (56 per cent) and depth. Drink now or cellar. $25 crisp, dry finish. $22From a north-facing hill site chardonnay (44 per cent) was Renato Estate Nelson Te Mania Nelsonoverlooking the Awatere Valley, estate-grown, barrel-fermented Pinot Noir 2011 Syrah 2011this supple, ruby-hued red and disgorged after 18 months Ruby hued, with a hint of early Deeply coloured, this purple-was matured in French oak on its yeast lees. It offers fresh, development, this barrel-aged red flushed red is very peppery onbarriques (44 per cent new). lemony, appley, slightly nutty has satisfying depth of cherry, the nose and palate. Medium-Vibrantly fruity and smooth, it is flavours, showing very good herb and spice flavours, showing bodied, it is intensely varietal,moderately concentrated, with delicacy and vivacity. $32 some savoury complexity. It’s with blackcurrant, herb andcherry, plum, spice and herb Te Mania Nelson already drinking well. $27 spice flavours, fresh andflavours, and a gentle seasoning Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Saint Clair Cabernet strong. $22 (UK)of toasty oak. $34 (A, UK, US) Certified organic, this is a racy, Merlot 2011 Trinity Hill Hawke’s BaySaint Clair Syrah 2011 distinctly cool-climate style with This drink-young style from Chardonnay 2011Grown in the Gimblett Gravels, lifted, grassy aromas leading Hawke’s Bay is a 60/40 blend of From “cooler” sites, this is aHawke’s Bay, this full-coloured into a crisp, herbaceous wine cabernet sauvignon and merlot, partly barrel-fermented winered has a distinctly spicy, with melon and green capsicum grown in the Gimblett Gravels. with good body and depthpeppery bouquet. Fresh, flavours showing very good Full-coloured, it has vibrant of fresh citrus and stonefruitvibrantly fruity and smooth, it is depth. $20 (A, UK, US) blackcurrant, herb and spice flavours. It’s a fruit-driven style,intensely varietal, with a strong Trout Valley Nelson flavours, showing moderate enjoyable now-2013. $20 (A, UK)surge of blackcurrant and black Pinot Gris 2012 complexity and good depth. $22 Weeping Sands Waihekepepper flavours, showing good Invitingly scented, this is Saint Clair Vicar’s Island Syrah 2011immediacy. $27 a gently sweet style from Choice Marlborough Deep and youthful in colour,Seifried Nelson Gruner Kahurangi Estate with Gewurztraminer 2011 this French and American oak-Veltliner 2012 mouthfilling body and crisp Perfumed and soft, this easy- aged red is fresh and smooth,Enjoyable in its infancy, this acidity woven through its vibrant drinking wine is enjoyable with moderately concentratedis a scented, medium to pear and lychee flavours, which now, with lychee, pear and berry, plum and spice flavours.full-bodied wine with citrusy, show good varietal character spice flavours, showing good (From Obsidian.) $32 (A, UK)slightly spicy and peachy and depth. $18 (A, UK) varietal character and plenty offlavours, a sliver of sweetness charm. $19and very good freshness,harmony and depth. $22 (UK)134 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALANDNovember/December 2012 Issue 126 COMPLIMENTARY COPYin this issue BECOME A WINESTATE VIP MEMBER!New Releases Subscribe and receive free entryand to Winestate public tastingsTOP 40 www.winestate.com.auBest Wine BuysUnder $20THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER ISA PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THELIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER.Winestate PublishingABN 56 088 226 411

305 TASTED148 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESQuite a mixed bag of new release wines with lots of fresh, youthful OTHER WHITE d'Arenberg Hermitwines, along with older, complex styles. After a disappointing 2011, VARIETALS Crab Viogniergenerally, the 2012s offer a step up and the ’10 and ’09s offer some & BLENDS Marsanne 2011 HHHgood drinking options. As always, there are exceptions to the rule. Lemon syrup nose with a 12 TASTED heady, floral lift and sweet, fruit salad flavours. Easy to 6 AWARDED drink. $18.95SPARKLING A real mixed bag of Heritage Estate varietals but a great Marsanne 2011 HHH7 TASTED mixture of well-made Big lift of tropical aromas4 AWARDED wines showing true and generously flavoured, varietal character, well-structured, creamyA surprisingly solid class especially the palate. $20of well-made wines gruner veltliner.true to style with either PINOTyouthful, fresh and K1 by Geoff Hardy GRIGIO/GRISlively characters or with Adelaide Hills & BLENDSpleasant, aged characters. Gruner Veltliner 2012 HHHH 8 TASTED Clover Hill Blanc de Millesimato Bottega A very interesting style 3 AWARDED Blancs 2008 HHHH Denominazione Di with distinctive, spicy/ Fresh, clean, chardonnay Origine Controllata tropical aromas and The judges were varietal aromas. Very fresh Treviso Italia unusual spice characters generally disappointed in the mouth with lovely, Prosecco 2011 HHH on the fresh, lively, well- with this group. youthful, lemon gelato-like Crisp, young and balanced palate. $28 \"Unless well made, this flavours and tight, acid refreshing style with varietal continues to be backbone. $55.99 pleasant, pear skin Logan Weemala mediocre.\" \"The variety Fox Creek aromas and a lemon Orange has a natural hue of Vixen Sparkling Red drop palate. $14.99 Gewurztraminer orange in its skin, so a NV HHH 2012 HHH touch of tawny tinge isClover Hill Brut Savoury, juicy aromas Heady, floral/lychee acceptable, but some of2008 HHHH and a seamless bouquet and excellent these were over-the-top.\"A stylish wine with palate showing both tropical varietal fruita creamy bouquet complexity and flavours with crisp, Yarran Premiumstarting to develop freshness. $22.50 acid support. $18 Wines Pinot Grigioyeasty complexity. Long, 2012 HHHHcomplex palate with Fox Creek McLaren Lifted, floral/pear nose.layers of lively, honeyed Vale Vermentino Good level of elegant,flavours. $46.99 2012 HHH varietal flavours for a Pleasant, sweet melon grigio. \"A definite crowd aromas and a crisp, lively please,\" said one judge. palate with good flavour \"Good quaffing.\" $12 intensity. $23 Taltarni Three Monks Victoria & Tasmania Fume Blanc 2011 HHH A complexity of pungent/perfumed fragrances. Full-on, dry/ sour flavours. Oak not obvious. $25136 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Redgate Wines B A RO S S A Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc • Award winning wines Semillon 2012 HHH • Family owned A light, fresh varietal • Historic Cellar Door with pungent, • Working Farm herbaceous aromas and good depth of aromatic Cnr Rosedale & Gomersal Rd, flavours. $22.50 Barossa Valley, South Australia SAUVIGNON Phone: +61 8 8524 9019 BLANC Open 7 days 24 TASTED www.pindarie.com.au 10 AWARDED The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 137Peter Lehmann Stormflower With a few exceptionsArt 'n' Soul Pinot Vineyard Single this is a group that lacksGrigio 2012 HHH Vineyard Wilyabrup any great highlight. NotNice varietal fruit Margaret River a variety that deliversspiciness here with Sauvignon Blanc great complexity, buthoneyed/floral characters. Semillon Chardonnay the better wines hereLight aromas and crisp, 2011 HHHH did offer good quaffing.dry flavours. $14 Lemon jelly-like Too many were over characters on the sweet which doesn’tThe Pond Pinot nose. Palate has lots compensate for genuineGrigio Chardonnay of interest. Made in a fruit depth.2011 HHH lovely fume style. HasGreen melon notes on length, complexity and Oldbury Reservea fresh, grassy nose. freshness. $25 Southern HighlandsSurprisingly interesting Sandalford Estate Sauvignon Blancpalate. Good drinking Reserve Margaret 2012 HHHH1/2now. $6.99 River Sauvignon Powerful, varietal nose; Blanc Semillon lots of herbaceous/SAUVIGNON 2012 HHH Lantana-like aromas.BLANC Fresh aromas; smells Big, tropical, fruit saladBLENDS of cut grass and green palate with exotic fruit. Soft in the mouth. spiciness. Great length.12 TASTED Good depth of herbal Drying finish. $22.405 AWARDED flavours. $25 Yarran Premium Kaiora BayThe judges expected Wines Sauvignon Marlboroughmore from this group. Blanc Semillon Sauvignon BlancThe semillon addition 2012 HHH 2011 HHH1/2is not as evident as it Light, herbaceous Clean, fresh and stylishshould be. bouquet and tight, with excellent balance. elegant, tropical palate Slightly pungent with nice, long finish. $12 fragrances and loads Greedy Sheep of unctuous flavours. Margaret River Drink now. $9.99 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2012 HHH Brygon Reserve Smells like fresh cut The Bruce mangoes with loads of Sauvignon Blanc ripe, tropical flavours and 2012 HHH lemony acid. $19 Very minty nose and well- balanced, varietal palate with herbal fruit and clean, crisp acid. $17.99 Longview Whippet Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2012 HHH A crisp, austere style; some pungency on the nose and fresh, flavoursome, tropical palate. $18.50

NEW RELEASESYilgarnia Denmark RIESLING DiGiorgio Reillys Watervale SEMILLONSauvignon Blanc & BLENDS Family Wines Clare Valley Riesling & BLENDS2012 HHH Kongorong Riesling 2012 HHH1/2Almost gingery-like 19 TASTED 2012 HHHH1/2 A pretty nose - quite 19 TASTEDcharacters on the nose. 12 AWARDED A fine wine; bright, scented with delicate, 13 AWARDEDPleasant, well-balanced green/straw colour and lime sherbet and floralpalate. Good flavour A solid class showing beautiful aromas in the characters. Dry, green, \"A good class of three-profile. $19 plenty of potential. floral/citrus spectrum citrus flavours. $18 star wines,\" said oneK1 by Geoff Hardy Obviously most were with a big, tropical lift. Bird In Hand judge. \"These were crispAdelaide Hills still very young and A very interesting palate Honeysuckle quaffing lunch winesSauvignon Blanc needed time to open with lovely, punchy, Clare Valley and to that end have2012 HHH up. \"Watch the sugar/ citrus flavours. $19 Riesling 2012 HHH performed admirably.\"Lifted varietal aromas at acid balance,\" was the Lime sherbet and brightthe pungent/thistle end judges' advice. Plantagenet Mount apple aromas. Very Hummingbird Seriesof the spectrum. Crisp, Barker Riesling sweet palate but good Margaret Riverlong, well-balanced 2012 HHHH1/2 zip of acidity. $25 Semillon Sauvignonpalate. $20 A lifted, floral fruit d'Arenberg Blanc 2012 HHH1/2 nose with a powerful, The Stump Jump Excellent, flavoursome minerally, lime thread McLaren Vale varietal with greatSaracen Estates and hints of tropics. Riesling Marsanne combo of herbaceous/Margaret River Mid-weight palate has Sauvignon Blanc tropical fruit charactersSauvignon Blanc bright, lifted, varietal Roussanne perfectly balanced by2012 HHH flavours and zesty, crisp 2012 HHH the acid. $17.99Developing tropical acidity. 3-5 $25 A pretty, delicate,bouquet and crisp, well- bouquet of pot Forester Estatebalanced, herbaceous Claymore Wines pourri. Rich fruit Margaret Riverpalate. Good dry white Joshua Tree flavours with crisp, Semillon Sauvignonflavours. $24 Clare Valley Riesling drying acidity. $12.95 Blanc 2012 HHH1/2 2012 HHHH Koppamurra Spicy, nettle-likeTaylor Ferguson Pretty, perfumed Clare Valley fragrances and pleasant,Premium Selection bouquet with a musky/ Riesling 2012 HHH seamlessly integratedMarlborough spicy lift. A very dry, An elegant \"lunch wine\" palate with creamySauvignon Blanc austere, aperitif palate with good persistence mouthfeel and crisp2011 HHH but lovely fruit depth. A of minerally, varietal fruit acid. $21.99Delicate, sweet floral very pleasant quaffer. characters. $15fragrances and nicely Logan Weemala Quarisa Johnnybalanced varietal 3-5 $18 Orange Riesling Q South Australiaflavours with crisp, acid 2012 HHH Semillon Sauvignonfinish. $14.99 Bundaleer Fresh but restrained Blanc 2012 HHH Stony Place varietal with spicy, A rich, creamy wine with Clare Valley Riesling lemon elements. nice tropical/honeysuckleLil Rippa Awatere 2012 HHH1/2 Showing promise for notes, a hint of oak andMarlborough Aromas more in the future cellaring. $18 balancing acid. $11.99Sauvignon Blanc green spectrum with a d'Arenberg2011 HHH Cherry Tree Hill drying, austere palate The Dry Dam ChurchviewSome cut grass/ Southern Highlands and an astringent finish. Riesling 2012 HHH Silverleaf Margaretherbaceous characters Riesling A keeper. 5+ $16 Lean, green and austere River Semillonon the nose. Good 2011 HHHH1/2 with lingering sweet/ Sauvignon Blancvarietal flavours with Interesting Alsatian Pokolbin Estate sour flavours and 2012 HHHnice astringency. $16 style. A complex nose Hunter Valley powerful, racy, acid A fresh, tight andButler Crest with a suggestion Riesling structure. $18.95 zippy style with greenMargaret River of oak. Lovely palate 2012 HHH1/2 capsicum fruit and bigSauvignon Blanc texture and structured Minerally, lemon/lime hit of lemony acid. $132011 HHH with spicy, lemon nose and good, crisp,\"An interesting individual!\" flavours. \"A different mouthwatering, citrusLean, herbaceous/briary take,\" said one judge. drive to the palate.aromas and very oaky/ Refreshing on thespicy fume style 5+ $20palate. $29.95 finish. 3-5 $28JUDGES Peter Simic Stephen John Clare Dry Editor/publisher Winestate Owner/winemaker of Currently Winemaker Magazine. More than 30 years’ Stephen John Wines. at Wolf Blass Wines. experience in the wine industry. More than 30 years’ Bachelor of Oenology at Formerly founding publisher of winemaking experience. Adelaide University. Has a US wine magazine, manager Has judged at Adelaide, vintaged in Mornington of the SA Wine Information National, and Barossa wine Peninsula and the Pfalz Bureau, and wine educator with shows. Regular Winestate region of Germany. Regency College of TAFE in panellist and chairman of SA. Peter is also a regular wine judges at the Winestate commentator on national radio Wine of the Year Awards. and television programs.138 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingFlying High CHARDONNAYMargaret RiverSemillon Sauvignon 37 TASTED Hong Kong’s LeadingBlanc 2011 HHH 19 AWARDED Boutique Wine & YachtingAn austere, crisp, drywhite style with plenty \"Lots of young wines Events Companyof potential. Some here,\" said one judge,gooseberry/passionfruit with what he described Wine Tastings | Sailing Chartersnotes. 5+ $17.99 as \"cynical oak\". \"Are Wine Cruises | Winemaker Talks some winemakersRedgate Wines OFS reverting back to Team Building | Sail TrainingMargaret River short-cut oak addition?\" Island Hopping Trips | Fine WinesSemillon 2011 HHH However, there areA full flavoured semillon some good wines from- excellent varietal fruit the 2011 vintage andcharacters with lanolin-like older wines that wereovertones. 3-5 $25 very good.Third Wheel Harlequin Margaret Voyager EstateSemillon Sauvignon River Semillon Margaret RiverBlanc 2012 HHH Sauvignon Blanc ChardonnayPowerful, pungent, 2011 HHH 2009 HHHH1/2gooseberry bouquet and Fresh but restrained A lovely, clean,nicely balanced, creamy aromas and very elegant, light goldenpalate with appropriate pleasant, soft, citrussy wine with good ageacid. $14.99 flavours with light complexity developing. alcohol. $17.99 Lifted, harmoniousYilgarnia Denmark aromas and flavoursSemillon Sauvignon A.C Byrne & Co with obvious lemonyBlanc 2012 HHH Margaret River acid in support. $45Delicate, floral, Semillon Sauvignonpassionfruit aromas. Blanc 2011 HHH Epitome ChardonnaySeamless palate, zippy Zesty, cut grass/ 2011 HHHHstructure and simple nettle aromas. Lovely A big, powerfulfruit flavours. $17 depth of melon/lemon wine - complex and flavours. Some age. deep; huge impact ofSandalford Classic tropical characters,Dry White Margaret 5+ $9.99 smoky/toasty oak,River Semillon nuttiness and minerallySauvignon Blanc Taylors Promised elements. $29.992012 HHH Land South AustraliaNose shows a lift of Semillon Sauvignon Brygon Reservemelon, peach and citrus. Private BinPleasant flavours, some Chardonnaysweetness to balance 2009 HHHHthe acid. $20 Toasty, well-integrated peach/melon aromas,Westley Manor Blanc 2011 HHH and nice palate depth andSemillon Sauvignon Very creamy style with structure with good nuttyBlanc 2012 HHH soft melon and honey flavours. Ageing well withNice quaffer - fresh, aromas. Dry white a soft finish. $49.99light and zippy with flavours and lemonyplenty of tropical fruit acid. 3-5 $13characters. $24.99 Chris Hatcher Phil Lehmann Contact us for some great sailing Chief winemaker for Winemaker for Teusner and fellowship in Hong Kong Treasury Estates, Wines. Associate judge at formerly Foster's Group, the Barossa wine show. (topped off with some great wine). Beringer-Blass Australia Graduate Diploma of for the past 10 years. Oenology from Adelaide www.adelaidecellardoor.com.hk Senior judge at Perth, University. Formerly white [email protected] Sydney, Adelaide and and sparkling winemaker at Brisbane wine shows. Yalumba Wines, and also www.hongkongyachting.com with Peter Lehmann Wines. [email protected] +852 2526 0151 801, Tai Yau Building, 181 Johnston Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 139

NEW RELEASES Churchview Margaret Brygon Reserve Small OTHER RED River Unwooded Batch Chardonnay VARIETALS Chardonnay 2009 HHH & BLENDS 2012 HHH Bright, simple, tropical Very lifted, bright, fruit and drying oak on 9 TASTED passionfruit bouquet and the nose and palate. very good, fresh, crisp, Developing nicely. Good 5 AWARDED simple, fruit palate. $19.50 to drink. $59.99 Sandalford Margaret ROSÉ The judges found this River Chardonnay to be a good collection 2012 HHH 12 TASTED of solid and very A well-made crowd 3 AWARDED drinkable wines. pleaser with soft, sweet,Peter Lehmann Flying High melon/lemon fruit and An amazing array of Redgate WinesH&V Eden Valley Margaret River good acid spine. $20 colours here but too Margaret RiverChardonnay Chardonnay Southern Highland many after thoughts, Cabernet Franc2011 HHHH 2011 HHH1/2 Wines Estate rather than championing 2010 HHH1/2Interesting wine - very A carefully made, crisp, Chardonnay the style. A Bordeaux style.Burgundian in style with a mid-weight wine. Fresh, 2011 HHH Lifted varietal bouquetpungent, toasty, oak nose light pineapple aromas \"A fun wine,\" thought Bundaleer North showing violet notes.and tight palate structure and lovely depth of fruit one judge. An abundance Star Rosé 2012 HHH Good palate weight withshowing powerful oak flavours. $17.99 of overt tropical fruit Pleasant, candied cigar box flavours andflavours. $24 Harlequin Margaret and sweet oak flavours. berry bouquet. soft tannins. $40 River Chardonnay Flavoursome palate; nice 2011 HHH1/2 5+ $17.60 balance of sweetness Harrington Glen Bright and pretty with Night Harvest and acidity. $18 Estate Granite Belt lightly candied, citrus Reserve Margaret Petit Verdot blossom elements River Chardonnay Swings & 2011 HHH layered with soft, 2011 HHH Roundabouts Plum jam nose with creamy, melon More old-fashioned style Margaret River Rosé leathery secondary characters. $17.99 of chardonnay; candied 2012 HHH characters developing. Cherry Tree Hill varietal fruit, citrus acid Very nice aromas of Firm, austere palate. Southern Highlands and creamy oak. $21.95 strawberries and melons. A keeper. 5+ $20 Chardonnay Swings & Palate freshness and 2011 HHH1/2 Roundabouts lively, dry flavours. $17 Tim Smith Wines A nice drink with Margaret River Barossa Mataro genuine chardonnay Chardonnay Saracen Estates Grenache Shiraz aromas and flavours. 2011 HHH Margaret River Rosé 2011 HHH Lively lifted tropical/ A complex wine layered 2012 HHH Savoury aromas with melon nose and soft, with tropical fruits, Pretty, pale pink wine. hints of plums and peach/citrus palate. $25 toasty oak, yeasty notes Lifted, fresh fruit strawberries. More of Butler Crest Margaret and good acid spine. $22 aromas. Crisp, dry the same on the soft, River Chardonnay Sandalford Estate flavours - hint of residual lively palate. $28 2010 HHH1/2 Reserve Margaret sugar. $20 Pungent, tropical bouquet River Chardonnay Jester Hill Wines with good use of oak. 2011 HHH PINOT NOIR Petit Verdot Great depth and balance A delicate chardonnay 2010 HHH of soft, sweet, melon/ quite Chablis-like. 9 TASTED Dense, oaky, leathery mango flavours. $29.95 Seamless integration of 1 AWARDED aromas. Good depth of Brygon Reserve Gold melon fruit and toasty sweet fruit flavours with Label Chardonnay oak. $35 Disappointing! Too many youthful, drying tannins. 2010 HHH1/2 Toolangi Yarra Valley dry reds instead of Nice nutty oak seamlessly Chardonnay varietals with few really 3-5 $22 integrated with peaches 2010 HHH understanding the style.Lions Lair Margaret and cream fruit. Good lift Light melon varietal fruit WayWood WinesRiver Chardonnay of spice and a clean, acid with understated, toasty Spring Vale Melrose McLaren Vale2011 HHHH finish. $39.99 oak. Slightly closed nose Freycinet Coast TempranilloA lovely drink in the - soft, creamy palate. $25 Tasmania Pinot Noir 2010 HHH\"classic white\" mould. Prancing Horse 2012 HHH Spicy, savoury nose and Estate Mornington Simple, lolly fruit very drying palate with Peninsula nose with gamey notes good depth of varietal Chardonnay and nice cherry fruit fruit. Astringent finish. 2009 HHH palate. $25 Very elegant, golden 3-5 $35 wine; seamlessly agedHints of pineapple toffee/caramel notes toand peach aromas the oak/fruit aromas andand bright, pretty, fruit flavours. $55flavours with lemon acidspine. 5+ $12.99140 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER



NEW RELEASES MERLOT Churchview St Johns Margaret WINESTATE 6 TASTED River Grenache 3 AWARDED Shiraz Mourvedre eS UvB SeC RnI BtE Rs 2010 HHH A surprising class with A stylish, savoury wine Thursday 29 November 2012 some nice, youthful, with interesting, sweet, well-structured wines. herbal characters and Wine of the Year tasting drying tannins. $35 Kennard's Wine Storage Centre, Pertaringa Stage CABERNET 17 Wellington St, Rozelle NSW Left Adelaide Merlot BLENDS 2010 HHHH 6.30pm - 8.30pm Pungent, herbal aromas; 19 TASTED some mintiness. Solid 10 AWARDED Friday 25 January 2013 oaky palate, purity of fruit and grippy tannins. $22 A solid class at the The Best of the West lighter end of the Claymore Wines spectrum. There were Perth Hyatt Regency Hotel, London Calling a few \"pretenders\" 99 Adelaide Tce, PERTH WA Clare Valley Merlot showing excess 2010 HHHH development for their 6.30pm - 8.30pm Earthy, plum/toffee- age or were simply too like aromas on the lean and green. Tuesday 9 April 2013 nose. Nice depth of rich, rounded, varietal Epitome Cabernet Subscriber Tasting and Dinner flavours. A very youthful Merlot 2010 HHHH Celebration of Vinitaly wine; in fact it's just a A light but pretty wine. baby! $20 \"Very gluggable,\" said VERONA (ITALY). one judge. Cassis/ Selection of the Best of Australia K1 by Geoff Hardy blueberry bouquet Adelaide Hills and vibrant, cassis-like and New Zealand. Merlot 2009 HHHH flavours. Strong tannic At the \"Pizzeria Olivo\" on the Piazza Brà, Pretty nose - some finish. $29.99 menthol with gamey 18, Verona, Italy from 7pm undertones and a nicely Voyager Estate balanced, harmonious Margaret River Friday 12 April 2013 palate with an astringent Cabernet Sauvignon World Cabernet Challenge finish. Nice drinking. $35 Merlot 2008 HHHH National Wine Centre, ADELAIDE A delicious, balanced and GRENACHE harmonious style. Smells 6pm - 8 pm & BLENDS of plums, blackcurrants, spices and leather. Friday 31 May 2013 4 TASTED Powerful, austere palate. 3 AWARDED A baby and a keeper. Worlds Greatest Shiraz/Syrah Challenge VIII Some lovely wines here; 5+ $60 mid-weight \"and not in National Wine Centre, ADELAIDE your face,\" said one judge. Swings & 6pm - 8 pm Roundabouts Lavina Elicere Margaret River Subscribers enjoy these events FREE McLaren Vale Cabernet Merlot Register online at www.winestate.com.au Grenache Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2 2010 HHHH A good drink. Rich,142 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER Complexity of leathery, dark fruit aromas with fruity, spicy aromas. leafy notes. Soft and Excellent depth of soft, vibrant fruit palate with bright, fruit flavours with oak adding plenty of some lively acid and depth. $22 minor development. $35 Claymore Wines Greedy Sheep You'll Never Walk Margaret River Alone Clare Valley Cabernet Merlot Grenache Mataro 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 A lovely wine with Sweet herbal notes to strong, earthy/ the nose with similar blackcurrant aromas, interesting flavours and fresh and lively tart balanced by drying green palate with good tannins and fine acidity. tannic grip. $24 3-5 $18

wine & spirit insider tastingLittle Birdwood Logan OrangeCabernet Shiraz Cabernet MerlotMerlot 2011 HHH 2010 HHHLifted, stalky, dark A bright, well-made winefruit nose and elegant with good depth andpalate with good length of varietal fruitvarietal definition. and oak flavours. $28 3-5 $4.99 CABERNET SAUVIGNONAnvers Brabo SouthAustralia Cabernet 34 TASTEDSauvignon Shiraz 21 AWARDED2011 HHHSimple and well made. \"Some very nice varietalLeafy, berry bouquet. wines here,\" agreed theNicely integrated judges. A few showedsweet fruit/oak early development whileflavours. 3-5 $14 the better wines had retained vibrant fruit and appropriate oak.Flying High Lavina ElicereMargaret River McLaren ValeCabernet Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon2009 HHH 2010 HHHHHRipe blackcurrant/smoky Gorgeous, dense, black/oak nose. Palate has nice purple colour with lovely,backbone of sweet fruit brooding, blackcurrantwith grippy tannins. $17.99 aromas and excellent,Sandalford Margaret full-bodied palate withRiver Cabernet pure dark berry flavoursMerlot 2010 HHH and good tannins.Tarry, leathery \"A stately wine!\" $35development on the Anvers Langhornenose. Good length of Creek Cabernetvarietal fruit with drying Sauvignontannins. $20 2009 HHHH1/2Forester Estate A solid, complex wineMargaret River \"of good breeding\" thatCabernet Merlot has an attractive, spicy,2010 HHH perfumed nose andPlums, licorice and terrific chocolate cake-some barnyardy aromas. like flavours on the long,Similar characters fresh palate. $28echoed on the softpalate. $21.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 143

NEW RELEASES Quarisa Treasures Brygon Reserve Brygon Reserve Taylor Ferguson Coonawarra Small Batch Gold Label Cabernet Premium Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2009 HHH Langhorne Creek 2010 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 Good concentration of Shiraz Cabernet Very more-ish! Smells A full bodied wine with small berry fruit characters 2010 HHH of blackcurrants and excellent pure varietal with gamey notes and Creamy, cashew nose licorice with some nice fruit, good smokiness balancing oak. $39.99 with plumy overtones and oak notes. Rich textured and lovely tannins nicely balanced palate palate with nice varietal structure. $59.99 Knee Deep in with youthful flavours. fruit flavours. $14.99 Terra Mia McLaren Margaret River Vale Cabernet Limited Release 5+ $14.99 Lavina Grand Royale Sauvignon 2011 HHH Kelsea's Cabernet McLaren Vale A brooding, dark, inky Sauvignon 2009 HHH SHIRAZ 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon wine with layers of Developed, leafy, 2010 HHHH varietal fruit tannins and cabernet bouquet. 9 TASTED Dusty, perfumed, gamey elements. $17 Soft and rich in the 1 AWARDED cranberry/raspberry Fox Creek McLaren mouth. A nice drink! $45 aromas. Lovely varietal Vale Cabernet The judges were fruit expression and Sauvignon 2011 HHH Brygon Reserve disappointed. Too intensity on the creamy, Dark, dense aromas Private Bin Cabernet many simple youthful textured palate. $120 and fresh, lively Sauvignon 2009 HHH wines here lacking any palate with nice Lovely, dark, sultry, character. \"Some of theseHarlequin Stevens Fleurieu herbaceous-like varietal blueberry aromas and would have improvedMargaret River McLaren Vale characters. $27 CD flavours with some very with another year in oak\",Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon Bird In Hand drying tannins. $49.99 suggested one judge.2010 HHHH 2009 HHHH Adelaide HillsA blackcurrant bouquet \"Some nice things going Cabernet Sauvignon Parson's Paddock Richard Hamiltonwith a menthol character on here.\" Intense colour, 2011 HHH Langhorne Creek Centurion McLarento it. Nicely structured excellent concentration Dusty, cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Vale Shiraz 2011 HHHpalate, good depth of of Ribena/blackcurrant fragrances. Lightweight 2011 HHH A big, powerful youth;cabernet fruit and a firm, characters. Some palate with sweet fruit, A crowd pleaser with almost black in colourtannic backbone. $17.99 smoky/stalky notes. $24 vanillin oak and gamey lifted, spiced cherry with huge potential.Claymore Wines Koonara Ambriel's notes. $40 aromas and soft, tannic Lovely fruit and dryingBlack Magic Woman Gift Coonawarra Peter Lehmann H&V palate with stonefruit oak tannins. $75Reserve Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Cabernet flavours. $14.95Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2010 HHH SHIRAZ 20102010 HHHH Spicy, lifted, cool- Nice depth of fresh SHIRAZNose shows ripe climate, cabernet and spicy raspberry-like BLENDS 28 TASTEDblackcurrant, dark bouquet and well- varietal fruit and showing 13 AWARDEDchocolate and some structured, seamlessly early development. $24 6 TASTEDcoffee-like aromas. balanced, medium Paringa Cabernet 3 AWARDED PertaringaLovely rich, chocolaty bodied palate. $33 Sauvignon 2010 HHH Undercoverpalate with varietal fruit K1 by Geoff Hardy A pleasant, medium- A small flight with some McLaren Vale Shirazovertones. $35 Adelaide Hills bodied wine with nicely balanced wines. 2010 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon good expression of Youthful fruit aromas - 2009 HHH1/2 cabernet fruit. Nice firm Taltarni Moonambel verging on porty with Some plums on the tannins. $10 Vineyards Reserve hints of boot polish-like nose with nice depth of Sedona Estate Pyrenees Victoria characters. Lovely fresh raspberry and cherry-like Auslese Yea Valley Shiraz Cabernet but complex flavours flavours on the firm, well- Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 HHHH with soft tannins. $22 structured palate. $35 2010 HHH A lean, nicely developed Solid, dark chocolate wine that's holding Stephen John Wines STAR RATINGS  nose; a tad minty. Good together well. Touch of Shiraz 2010 HHHH flavour profile with a mint on the nose and a A huge wine. Great colourThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of soft, oaky finish. $30 lovely, complex, Aussie and rich, ripe complexityexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Shirvington style of palate. $65 of varietal fruit, slightlyAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry McLaren Vale tarry with some excellentprofessionals and are compared in peer Cabernet Sauvignon Stephen John Wines oak and a long, soft finish.classes by three judges. 2010 HHH Shiraz GrenacheCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Brooding, blackcurrant Mataro 2010 HHH 3-5 $25a major mail-order business. and oak nose. Quite spicy/ A fresh, lively, fruitCD Cellar door price. peppery flavours with blend with good oaky Terra MiaCDO Cellar door only. lingering sweetness. $47 backbone and beautiful McLaren Vale ShirazSO Sold out. spicy notes. Very 2010 HHHH$N/A Price not available at time of printing. European. 5+ $15 A youthful, crimson wine Contact information pg 160. with fresh mulberry/ plum varietal fruit, sweet RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). oak and great tannins.For a complete list of what we tasted This wine has eleganceplease refer to www.winestate.com.au and structure. $17144 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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NEW RELEASES Paringa Shiraz SHIRAZ Flint's of Coonawarra K1 by Geoff Hardy 2010 HHH1/2 2009 & OLDER Rostrevor Coonawarra Adelaide Hills Shiraz Rich, stewed plum Shiraz 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH aromas with a dusting 18 TASTED Leathery, chocolaty, Interesting, savoury of oak. Dark chocolaty 10 AWARDED aged aromas. Lovely nose and elegant palate palate. Lovely soft depth of sweet shiraz with layers of sweet tannins and some sweet A very solid class \"with fruit balanced with oak varietal fruit and fresh oak. 5+ $10 the wines coming into and showing attractive, oak. 5+ $35 their own,\" said one developed characters. Peter Lehmann H&V judge. \"Some lovely Fox Creek Reserve Eden Valley Shiraz complexity that you 5+ $19.99 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 can only get with age.\" 2009 HHHPilots Watch A big, old-fashioned style The 2009 vintage was Crimson colour, nuttyMargaret River with tarry/licorice aromas almost a forgotten one; fruit aromas and solid,Shiraz 2010 HHHH and palate offering a we are seeing some dry red flavours withA classic Christmas mouthful of powerful beautiful wines coming drying tannins. $70cake-like nose and lovely, fruit and tannins. $24 from that year.soft, generous, jammy Raintree Estate DiGiorgio Familyfruit palate layered with Shiraz 2010 HHH Brygon Reserve Wines Coonawarraoak and supported A simple, light quaffer Gold Label Shiraz Shiraz 2008 HHHby a good zesty, acid with steely aromas and 2009 HHHHH An elegant, stylish winebackbone. $17.99 lean, youthful, primary A well-balanced, older with lovely sweet fruit,Quarisa Treasures fruit flavours. $29.99 style shiraz with vanilla, dusty oak and agedMcLaren Vale Shiraz Sedona Estate plums and spice on characters. $262010 HHHH Auslese Yea Valley the nose, and excellentA developed, spicy/ Shiraz 2010 HHH depth of mulberry fruit MOSCATOleathery nose and great Powerful, toasty oak flavours with rich, mid-depth of sweet Satsuma bouquet with a soft, palate, nice dusty oak. 10 TASTEDplum flavours layered unctuous, stonefruit Still looks fresh. $39.99 2 AWARDEDwith spicy oak and some palate and zesty, acidnice spiciness. $14.99 spine. $30 Flying High Disappointing! Too manyRedgate Wines Shirvington Margaret River sweet wines lackingMargaret River McLaren Vale Shiraz Shiraz 2009 HHHH balance with othersShiraz 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH Lovely freshness of just lacking acid to cutGreat colour and clean, A huge, ripe wine with varietal fruit with firm through the sweetness.youthful, blueberry beautiful intensity of balancing tannins,aromas with a very shiraz fruit and some some well-handled oak Pertaringa Southyouthful, primary fruit well-integrated oak. $53 and zesty acidity. Fruit Australia Moscatopalate ending with a Lavina Grand Royale cake nose and tight 2012 HHHcleansing, tannic finish. McLaren Vale Shiraz palate. 5+ $17.99 Heady, sherbety/jasmine 2010 HHH aromas and simple, +5 $33 \"Yum,\" said one judge. RockBare Barossa refreshing, sweet/tartButler Crest Great colour, beautiful Babe Barossa Shiraz green palate. $18Margaret River varietal fruit, lots of 2009 HHHHShiraz 2010 HHHH quality oak and high Very oaky style with a Reillys Barking MadA fruit-driven style of alcohol. $120 lovely, chocolate/mint lift Moscato 2012 HHHshiraz with plenty of and showing excellent A big, grapey noseripe mulberry jam-like depth of sweet varietal and zesty, \"fruit tingle\"characters, good dusty fruit to match. Seamless palate with a clean, acidoak complexity and nice palate. 5+ $39.95 finish. $15drying tannic finish. Taltarni Estate SWEET & 5+ $38.95 Pyrenees Victoria FORTIFIED Stevens Family Shiraz 2009 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz 3 TASTED 2006 HHHHH Subdued nose. Ripe, 1 AWARDED dense palate with A rich, chocolaty style layers of chocolaty oak, Stevens Vintage of shiraz with lovely Fortified Shiraz complexity of fruit mulberry fruit and soft 2012 HHH tannins. 5+ $40 A very pretty, sweet red cake-like aromas and style with lashings of excellent combination Taltarni T-Series fruit and excellent, clean of complex flavours. Still Victoria Shiraz spirit. $25 amazingly fresh for a six- 2009 HHH year-old. 5+ $24 Nicely layered wine with lashings of primary fruit, spicy oak and acid. 5+ $16.99146 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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TOP 40Beresford Beacon Hill Lindauer Special Reserve Padthaway Estate Izzie Te Hana ReserveBrut Cuvee NV Brut Cuvee NV Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV New Zealand SparklingDelicate, citrus/light apple Big, complex, toasty/yeasty A full-flavoured, commercial Cuvee NVbouquet. Balanced in the mouth aromas with similar characters style with clean, simple, Lifted yeasty aromas with nicewith persistent bubbles. $11.95 on the complex palate. $14.99 varietal fruit and lingering, toastiness showing through. yeasty notes. $15 Medicinal/perfumed charactersMake Wines Australia Wither Hills Vineyard Ltd/Lion on a long palate. $19.99Ph: (08) 8182 1866 Ph: +64 3 520 8270 Padthaway EstateE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8765 5235 Wither Hills Vineyard Ltd/LionWeb: www.vok.com.au Web: www.witherhills.co.nz E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 3 520 8270 Web: www.padthawayestate.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.witherhills.co.nzBEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND$U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. $25 NZD & UNDER148 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Taylors Bottle Fermented Leconfield Wines Syn Mirabella Vineyards Lil Rippa AwatereBrut Cuvée Pinot Noir Rouge Sparkling Shiraz NV Single Vineyard Marlborough SauvignonChardonnay NV Sparkling Shiraz 2009 Blanc 2011Toasty buttery components to Fruit-driven nose of lifted dark Gamey, meaty nose and flavours Some cut grass/herbaceousthe nose and some lean, peach cherries with violet notes, and showing plum richness with characters on the nose. Goodand lemon flavours. $19 an unusual soft and peppery some savoury elements. $17 varietal flavours with nice palate. $15 astringency. $16Taylors Wines Pty Ltd Mirabella VineyardsPh: (08) 8849 1151 Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/ Ph: 0404 531 512 By the Bottle Pty LtdE-mail: [email protected] Richard Hamilton E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 9787 7513Web: www.taylorswines.com.au Ph: (08) 8323 8830 Web: www.mirabellavineyards.com E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.leconfieldwines.comOPPORTUNITY TO PARTNER WITH WINESTATE Winestate will be conducting professional AT THE WORLD’S LARGEST WINE SHOW! wine buyers tasting events at the world’s biggest wine expo - directly promoting a strictly 47th edition limited number of Australian and New Zealand 7-10 april 2013 wines direct to the buyers and wholesaler/ Winestate VinItaly Trade Mission importers during the week of 7-10 April, 2013. www.vinitaly.com If you are interested in participation please contact Peter Jackson [email protected] +61 8 8357 9277. Complimentary advertising and on site marketing support included. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 149

TOP 40Raidis Estate Raidis Estate The Kid Sam Miranda King Valley Sam Miranda Snow RoadCheeky Goat Coonawarra Coonawarra Riesling 2012 Riesling 2008 King Valley Moscato 2011Pinot Gris 2012 A zesty, fresh citrus sherbet Lovely green hues and a bright A clean lift of muscat aromasPale pink colour with pleasant bouquet with bright, fresh citrus lift to the floral nose with and bright, sweet, floralstrawberry lift to the nose. floral edges. Great balance, intense, lime juice-like flavours flavours on a zippy, freshFlavoursome palate reminiscent persistence and freshness of on a clean palate with tight acid palate. $12of a baked pear tart. $19 estery lemony-like flavours structure. $20 with an attractive, apple skin- Sam Miranda King ValleyRaidis Estate like grip. $19 Sam Miranda King Valley Ph: (03) 5727 3888Ph: (08) 8737 2966 Ph: (03) 5727 3888 E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Raidis Estate E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.sammiranda.com.auWeb: www.raidis.com.au Ph: (08) 8737 2966 Web: www.sammiranda.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.raidis.com.auWINESTATE WINE OF THE YEAR PUBLIC TASTINGCome and try some of the best Thursday 29 November 2012wines of Australia and NZ from 6.30pm - 8.00pmour Wine of the Year selection! KSS Wine Storage Centre,Winestate subscribers FREE entry 17 Wellington St, Rozelle NSW 2039 Please RSVP to [email protected] before 26 November150 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER