Winestate Magazine November December 2012

W I N E S TAT E P R O M OT I O NWOLF BLASS BACKS HIS PASSION WITH A $4 MILLION INDUSTRY INCENTIVEThis country He used $1 million of his own money to disappointment not many things have comehas been very establish the Wolf Blass Foundation. Its forward that we could assist.”good to me … goal was to help the wine industry achieveand I’ve been excellence in winemaking, viticulture and Fellow board member Paul Clancy,good for the marketing, and Wolf saw it underpinning former Winetitles publisher, grapegrowercountry. work in viticultural and oenological research advocate and now grapegrower, says Wolf and development, wine education, wine was aware that, given his past reputation asIT MIGHT SEEM STRANGE and health, and creating a global wine a flamboyant marketer, many people would industry profile for Australia. have expected him to use the foundationthat the man widely credited as being one to “big-note himself”.of the wine industry’s great promoters These were, indisputably, fine objectiveshas had difficulty getting the message and Wolf expected the phone would soon “He didn’t want to be seen to be blowingacross about the $4 million foundation start ringing with people seeking funding his own trumpet,” Paul says. “Instead, hehe’s established to help the industry for all manner of projects. But not much hoped the industry would pick it up andhe loves. happened. Over the past 12 years only find a role for it and how the money could $800,000 has been spent, and some be spent. He’d made good money out of But that’s how it is for Wolf Blass, $350,000 of that on one major project - an the industry and he just wanted to givewinemaker and marketer extraordinaire, oral history of Australia’s wine industry, something back. I think the wine industry ashe of the trademark bow ties, the created in conjunction with the National a whole has been a bit lax about recognisingflamboyant yellow Rolls-Royce (until he Wine Centre and begun in 2000. It has now what the foundation could do and that’s whywrapped it around a power pole), the culminated in a landmark book by wine it has slipped under the radar.”globe-trotting face of Wolf Blass Wines writer Max Allen, The History of Australian- a man described in one biography as Wine, produced with support from the Wine Having just turned 78, and still actively“Australia’s cockiest winemaker”. Federation of Australia and released in involved in the wine industry as global August this year. ambassador for Wolf Blass Wines within In 1994, on his 60th birthday and at the Treasury Wine Estates portfolio, Wolfthe height of his career, Wolf decided it “Not surprisingly, Wolf has been very is now determined that his foundation bewas time to give something back to the successful with his investments since used to its full potential. “This country hasindustry that had made him a wealthy man establishing the foundation and it is now a been very good to me … and I’ve beenrecognised globally as the face of Mildara very viable organisation,” says foundation good for the country,” he says.Blass - which had a market capitalisation board member and fellow wine legendof $125 million when it was formed in Guenter Prass. He says there’s now around Born in the former East Germany in1991 and $560 million when it was sold $4 million in the foundation’s kitty but he 1934, he was the youngest-ever recipientto Foster’s five years later. doesn’t mask his disappointment that it’s of the Kellermeister Diploma at the highly not been better used and supported by respected Weinbauschule wine college the wine industry. at the age of 19. After a period working in Champagne, in 1961 he was invited by “It’s a paradox,” Guenter says. “We Ian Hickinbotham at Kaiser Stuhl to make have tried many avenues, especially with a sparkling wine that would compete major wine industry organisations, to put with Orlando’s ground-breaking Barossa the foundation forward, saying ‘here we Pearl, first released in 1956. The result are to help the industry’, but to my great was Pineapple Pearl, sold in a pineapple- shaped bottle. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 51

It’s easy to laugh at these wines now In 1966 his company Bilyara, which means In 1984 Wolf Blass Wines went publicbut, as Liz Johnston reports in her Eaglehawk, produced 250 dozen in its first with a market capitalisation of $15 millionbiography of Wolf Blass, they fed a new vintage. The first wine released under his own and selling around 3.5 million bottles apassion in Australia for any wine that name was the 1968 Wolf Blass Grey Label, year. Mildara Blass was formed in 1991,bubbled. Wolf not only now discovered using fruit from the Langhorne Creek region only to be bought by Foster’s in 1996his talents for wine promotion; he was which he helped pioneer, starting a new and in 2000 have its name changed tohooked on the opportunities his new trend in consumer-friendly, instantly drinkable Beringer Blass Wine Estates. By 2003country offered. Soon he was working wines. Wolf Blass Wines International Wolf Blass had become Australia’sas a consultant winemaker and, though followed in 1973 with a $200 overdraft and top-selling brand both in volume andtrained as a white winemaker, rapidly 1.6 hectares of vineyards, winning three value. And so it kept growing, withbecame involved in lifting the quality of consecutive Jimmy Watson Trophies from awards and honours, including an AM,the country’s red wines as well. 1974. Wolf Blass was on his way. heaped on Wolf.52 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

W I N E S TAT E P R O M OT I O NThe riesling “Someone might come forward and After all that wildly colourful andchallenge suggest a research project, probably in highly entertaining history, the thingand other wine marketing or wine business rather that matters most now to Wolf - andgrand ideas than wine science, which is already funded which so far, to a large extent, has by organisations such as the Australian eluded him - is for his foundation toAPART FROM the oral history project, Wine Research Institute. Everyone knows become a force for change in the how to make good wine - the challenge industry he loves. “We fell into the trapconducted by historian Robert Linn, which these days is selling the stuff, so someone of believing the industry would do thehas culminated in Max Allen’s History of wanting to do, say, a Harvard MBA in wine job for us,” he says. “Now the time hasAustralian Wine (Victory Books), one of business administration, would be well come for us to change this and makethe Wolf Blass Foundation’s other major received. Or it could be someone wanting the work and potential of the foundationachievements has been establishing the to explore barriers to market entry in China, much better known.”annual International Riesling Challenge or Asian taste profiles - the possibilities ofin 2000. using this foundation are limited only by the imagination of the wine industry.” “Being German, I believe in riesling,” Wolfsays. “Australia needs a benchmark white In the meantime, Wolf Blass will pursuewine, but unfortunately the Australian wine a personal passion to establish a nationalindustry has not seen fit to promote one of its wine museum, based on a collection ofbest products. We grow a very low tonnage wine memorabilia he initially displayedof riesling compared to chardonnay” - which at the Wolf Blass winery in the Barossa.he dismisses as “vin ordinaire”. “You name it, we have it,” Wolf says of the collection now gathering dust in storage at From its modest beginnings with 137 the winery. Despite wanting to donate theriesling-style wines, the challenge has collection and toss in $500,000 to display itbecome the biggest event of its kind in the properly, he’s struggled to find any interestsouthern hemisphere, with more than 500 from politicians or bureaucrats. He sees itentries from 11 countries. as providing the core of a commercially independent national wine centre - not the Wolf says they’ve “pumped a lot of one we already have which he labels asmoney” into exchange programs, such “catastrophic” - and a way of underpinningas an ongoing international wine lecturer South Australia as “the wine state, not theexchange, sponsored an annual Australian resource state”.Schools Wine Show, conducted aninternational wine and health conference According to Guenter Prass, thein Sydney and undertaken various wine foundation is now talking again to theeducation programs over the years. Wine Federation of Australia and things are starting to look up: “We have a very So what next? positive outlook that this time we’re on the “We’re open for people to come forward right track,” he says.with ideas,” says foundation board memberPaul Clancy. “In the early days we had But if anyone has a smart idea thathoped people would apply for funds to will benefit the wine industry and needstravel and study, and that’s still something funding, they should pick up the phonewe could support. to Wolf quick smart … before he sinks the cash into a museum or does a deal with WFA. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 53

WE’RE SPOILT FOR CHOICE TO SATISFY A RAGING THIRST FOR SPARKLINGTYSON STELZER THE GROWER There is much talk of a grower producer REVOLUTION FALLACY revolution in Champagne, but in truth theirIT SEEMS AUSTRALIA’S THIRST share of the market has barely changed in We’ve never been more blessed for the past decade. If anything, the proportionfor champagne knows no bounds. While choice of champagne in Australia. While of champagne sold by growers hasglobal consumption quivers as the world 80 per cent of champagne is made dropped slightly in that time. If anythingcontinues to hover on the brink of economic by cooperatives and large merchant has changed it’s only the availability of thedoom, Australia pops more champagne houses under big brands, 90 per cent of grower champagnes in Australia. There’sthan ever. Last year, we consumed 4.9 Champagne’s vineyards are owned by nothing new about their production.million bottles, a massive one-third increase more than 19,000 growers. More and moreon 2010 and growing at more than double of these growers are making and selling In Champagne itself, even the suggestionthe rate of the still wine category. their own wines, and these are increasingly of segregating growers and negociant making their way to Australia. houses is a foreign concept. Most Australian Australia now ranks number eight in the drinkers always pop the householdworld for champagne imports. Per capita, This has prompted something of a names of the big brands, missing anthis puts us in the top five, making us the champagne ‘grower producer’ revolution important dimension of the great diversitybiggest champagne guzzlers outside Down Under, and in top sommelier and of champagne’s finest offerings. A smallEurope, and bigger than Germany and retail circles you’ll hear names like Egly- band of informed consumers who huntItaly. That’s staggering, considering that Ouriet, Larmandier Bernier and Veuve fanatically for nothing but small growersfor a decade and a half until just 10 years Fourny more often than Moet, Veuve miss an equally vital dimension. Indeed,ago, we popped barely a million bottles Clicquot and Mumm. The world of bubbles the very notion of imposing such a divisioneach year. is on the move, and you can expect to undermines the very complex and diverse see more diversity of champagne on the relationships that exist between champagne Why such a thirst for champagne? The shelves this Christmas than ever. brands and the vineyards from which theyface of the Champagne region is changing are sourced. No such separation existsrapidly, not only with the dynamic of Yet, surprisingly, the statistics indicate that in Champagne and its very suggestion ischanging climate and the ever-evolving Australia has not embraced the diversity vigorously dismissed by both sides.know-how of its finest minds. Champagne is of champagne to anything like the extentan international commodity and vulnerable of other countries. While 173 different “Right now it is very easy to have an ‘usto the gusty winds of economic change champagne brands were imported into and them’ approach, but this is not in thethat characterise the contemporary world. Australia last year, the top five brands spirit of champagne,” declares celebratedCurrency fluctuations have smoothed dominated, with more than 70 per cent Vertus grower producer Pierre Larmandier,the seas for more imports from an ever- of sales. Globally, the sum total of all who last year changed importers in the USdiverse range of sources, leading to champagne houses represented less for his Larmandier-Bernier label over thisunprecedented choice and breathtaking than 70 per cent of total champagne sales very discussion.discounting like never before. New low around the world, but in Australia the housesprice records are set in the lead-up to snared a whopping 96 per cent of the “We think it’s just absurd that there’s aChristmas every year. After something of market, leaving just 2.1 per cent for grower ‘growers versus houses’ mentality in thea recovery of global champagne sales in producers (compared with more than 22 per market,” agrees Christian Holthausen,2011, I suspected we might never see this cent across the rest of the world) and 1.7 per former communications director for theagain. How mistaken I was. cent for the co-qos (8.9 per cent globally). houses of Piper and Charles Heidsieck.54 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

“We all eat and drink together!” Even thevery term ‘grower producer’ is challenged.“From where do they think we pull ourgrapes?” Holthausen exclaims. Philosophically, some of Champagne’sfinest grower producers align themselvesmore closely with certain houses. “It is notbecause we are small that we make goodwine – some houses make distinguishedwine, and even the biggest houses canbe very good,” says Pierre Larmandier. Hedescribes himself as very close to the houseof Jacquesson and points out that there aremany small growers in his zone of the Cotedes Blancs who produce “ordinary wines”.SHADES OF GREYIN A PARALLEL UNIVERSEBe they houses, growers or co-ops, theextensive variety of brands available inAustralia means there’s never been a bettertime to buy champagne. Champagnelovers around the country raised theirglasses in celebration when the Australiandollar reached parity with the US dollar.Wheeling and dealing was done behind thescenes as parallel importers scrambled toland our favourite fizz at prices lower thanever. Depressed demand in competingexport markets has further fuelled theopportunities. There’s nothing new aboutthese ‘grey imports’ - bottles purchasedfrom overseas third parties. What isunprecedented is the rate at which they areflowing into Australia. Champagne retailerscan now source many brands from multipleagents within and outside Australia, muchto the dismay of traditional importers.

RIGHT NOW IT IS VERY EASY TO HAVEAN ‘US AND THEM’ APPROACH, BUT THISIS NOT IN THE SPIRIT OF CHAMPAGNE. NAME - Piccolo Half Standard Magnum Jeroboam Rehoboam Methuselah Salmanazar BOTTLES - 1/4 1/2 1 2 4 6 8 12 MEASURE - 187ml 375ml 750ml 1.5L 3L 4.5L 6L 9L There are pros and cons for the consumer. By contrast, total imports of sparkling wine have the “mantle of chalk” enjoyed byWe all love an increased diversity of choice, rose almost 16 per cent – a significant statistic Champagne, because it gives the state afrom an ever-longer list of retailers, at because, over the same period, imports of great opportunity to explore its diversity. “It’smouth-watering prices. But buyer beware. table and fortified wines actually dropped. the hilliest state in Australia and boasts theSuch a diversity of sources and shipping most diverse soils in the country,” she says.via third-party countries, where stock may In Australian sparkling wine, the hot topic “The most exciting thing about Tasmania ishave spent an indeterminate length of at the moment is the altitude versus latitude that most of it is not yet planted.”time under unknown conditions, can only debate, as sparkling wine sources headexacerbate the already monumental problem both south and uphill to escape a warming Accolade sparkling winemaker Ed Carr,of inconsistency of freshness in champagne. climate. Cool temperatures infuse great Australia’s most celebrated master of fizz, sparkling wine with the crucial ingredients is focusing his sparkling portfolio on the It is rarely possible to reliably identify of elegance and acidity. In a country as latitude of Tasmania and the Yarra Valleythe history of a bottle from its label, so warm as Australia, the question of whether rather than the altitude of Tumbarumba andthe best you can do is to develop a good altitude or latitude is better for sparkling wine Orange. “Australian wine regions provide therelationship with a reputable retailer who is pertinent, and the debate is in full swing. opportunity to create sparkling wines of a widecan vouch for the provenance of every diversity of styles,” he says. “We can sourcebottle and guarantee to replace any that “Tasmania is the future of sparkling wines from cooler regions at higher latitudesisn’t up to scratch. winemaking in Australia,” declares Jansz and at higher altitudes.” As with Nat, latitude Tasmania winemaker Nat Fryar. “I’ve been is the answer for Ed. “The wines of OrangeAUSTRALIAN SPARKLING making wine for 20 years and I believe a and Tumbarumba have distinctive regional cool climate by means of latitude rather character,” he explains. “Warm days and coolMeanwhile, drinking patterns in Australian than altitude is very important, because nights at altitude produce a very different stylesparkling wines have shown a distinct altitude brings increased exposure to to the more humid days of cloud cover andtrend toward cheaper wines. Sales of ultraviolet light.” softer sunshine in Tasmania.”bottle fermented Australian bubbles in the12 months to June 2012 dropped almost To Nat, the moderating effect of the Clover Hill winemaker Karina Dambergs10 per cent from the previous year, while maritime climate of Tasmania is the key to the points out that Tasmania is not dissimilar tosales of bulk fermented Australian sparkling island state’s success with sparkling wine. Champagne in temperature, “But we havewine rose 15 percent in the same period. She suggests that it may, in fact, be a more sunlight and more ultraviolet light.” Ed strategic advantage that Tasmania doesn’t56 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

Balthazar Nebuchadnezzar Solomon Sovereign Primat Melchizedek 16 20 24 35 36 40 12L 15L 18L 27L 30L 26.25L agrees. “You can walk around in the sun in While Orange is not historically regarded decade or more on lees. Recent releasesEurope for hours, but in Tasmania you fry in for its fine sparkling wines, I was recently including Arras EJ Carr Late Disgorgedminutes - there’s a definite difference in the privileged to join a sneak preview of a 2001, Yarrabank Late Disgorged 2001,intensity in the light. In Europe, the vines are blanc de blancs from Printhie Wines Domaine Chandon Prestige Cuvee 1996much more open; here we need to shade that showcased considerable potential and Bindi Cuvee 3 (boasting a mammoththe fruit and leave it less exposed.” This is of higher-altitude sites of the region for 13 years on lees) prove the heights to whichthe reason, he suggests, that champagne chardonnay for sparkling production. When Australian sparkling wines can aspire - beharvested a lower baumes doesn’t tend to the same sample was shown to the terroir- they from latitude or altitude.show a herbal character, while Australian focused Rodolphe Peters at Pierre Peterschardonnay can assume sauvignon blanc in Champagne’s Le Mesnil sur Oger, he The naive generalisations of growercharacters if it’s picked too early, and “fry” reportedly proclaimed, “This has minerality, producer versus negociant house, ofif it’s harvested too late. it has graphite and tension, and this really grey import versus traditional agent, of surprises me!” altitude versus latitude are a simplistic Tasmania is yet to explore its higher climes take on the sparkling wine world. It’sfor their suitability to grapegrowing, so the Altitude is also the secret in South time we left these debates behind andquestion of fine sparkling wines from cooler Australia’s Adelaide Hills. At the tiny estate instead embraced the wondrous andelevations is left to mainland Australia. Of of Deviation Road, winemaker Kate Laurie unprecedented diversity of sparkling winecourse, not all subscribe to the philosophy captures elegance and purity by harvesting in our reach this year. There has neverof latitude over altitude. Domaine Chandon sparkling wines on acidity rather than been a better time to raise a glass of thechief winemaker Dan Buckle is on the hunt flavour. “I often harvest in February, weeks most celebrated beverage on Earth.for more vineyards in Tasmania, but is quick or even a month before others harvestto acknowledge the quality of alpine Victoria sparkling wines in the Hills,” she explains. Tyson Stelzer wasas a source of fine sparkling base. Chandon’s named the Internationalrange of single-region cuvees clearly attest This pursuit of ever more refined sparkling Champagne Writer of theto this philosophy, as does Brown Brothers’ styles, driven by brilliantly honed acidity, Year in the Louis Roedererfamous and historic Whitlands vineyard in creates wines capable of holding their International Wine Writers’the alpine foothills of Victoria’s King Valley, finesse for years and even decades. Awards 2011. He is thesource of its revered Patricia Cuvee. Australia’s finest sparkling wines showcase author of The Champagne the complexity achieved after ageing for a Guide 2012-2013, www. champagneguide.com.au. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 57

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINWe’re a well-fed bunch in Melbourne. Peeling calm with walls that are whitewashed, with an a burger could be. Mix this mindset withoff the layers of an icy winter and moving eclectic array of wooden chairs surrounding an avid interest in American food and youinto the warmer months, there are new the tables and Chinoiserie-style lamps have a burger joint opening, it seems, everyrestaurants and diners opening - Melbourne residing on the walls. David’s is so relaxed in other week. One that looks interesting is,is having a love affair with the burger at the fact, that while table service is of course on Brother Burger and The Marvellous Brew,moment - and then, there are old favourites offer, should you feel uncomfortable hassling the place with the long name and even longerbeing refurbished to keep our interest and waiters, you can simply help yourself to extra bar to sit at. Brother Burger opened in Augustappetites sated. David’s in Prahran is an sauce and the like at the self serve stand and sits on the site in Fitzroy, in Melbourne’sinstitution in the south-east suburbs and in the centre of the restaurant. It’s a flexible inner-north, that was the Retro Cafe forwhile institution can be an overused word, it yet elegant space. 4 Cecil Place, Prahran; many years. It also had a short stint as cafe,seems appropriate here. Open since 1998, phone (03) 9529 5199. Eat Drink Man Woman. Owner Marcelothe restaurant has been awarded one hat Tummino has created a room with a classicin The Age Good Food Guide ten times Frank and Sharon van Haandel, of the American diner feel complete with pre-lovedand has maintained a reputation for good van Haandel group have done it again. furniture such as a repurposed workbenchShanghaiese food, so it was news around The couple behind the Stokehouse restaurant from Geelong West Tech School which servestown when it closed its doors in June for a in St Kilda and with interests in Cutler & Co as the communal table and retro aqua-major refurbishment and new take on how in Fitzroy and Prahran’s Ladro Greville have coloured bar stools, purchased on eBaythey present their menu and dishes. David taken over the long space overlooking from the Green Gully Soccer Club in KeilorZhou, the owner of David’s and the popular the Yarra River in the recently relaunched Downs, making up the seating. The menuyum cha restaurant The China Tea House, Hamer Hall complex. Called Trocadero, includes 100 per cent Wagyu beef pattieshas modernised the David’s space bringing it opened in early August and is a striking (from Mayura Station in South Australia) andit into contemporary Melbourne while still space that stretches along the Yarra, taking eight taps pouring Australian, independenthonouring its commitment to traditional in a completely different perspective of craft beer. The focus on quality product anddishes. Using quality, fresh, local ingredients, Flinders Street Station and the CBD aspect. good beer lifts it out of the ordinary. Whilethe food itself is designed to be simple with The room - with its enormous bar and dining takeaway is available, Tummino (who was thean emphasis on sharing. The new David’s room - is shifting the expectation of what man behind The European and The Supper the term brasserie means to a Melbourne Club) strongly encourages you to take a seatmenu is defined as “country Shanghai dining audience. While it’s modern and at the bar, and enjoy the diner in all its glory.comfort” and presents in simple sections: contemporary, the menu’s focus is classic The hors d’oeuvre menu features “vol auShanghai Snacks includes spicy duck wings with sophisticated elements and a clever vents”, “devils on horseback” and “nuts andwith cinnamon and soy or a spring onion wine list that highlights boutique wineries bolts”. There’s even “mini chik-o-rolls” filledpancake or Shanghai Parcels with the much- as well as interesting European drops. with slow cooked pulled lamb shoulder; it’sloved pan-fried beef dumplings, chilli pork Chef Nick Bennett, who was most recently not the Chiko roll I remember. Classic counterdumplings and steamed veggie dumplings senior sous chef at CBD Italian restaurant, meals such as the pie floater, seafoodas well as larger dishes. Under titles such as Cecconi’s, has created a menu that covers mornay or corned beef with potatoes,From the Garden or From the Paddock, you appetisers and charcuterie with an emphasis are also on offer, but as you’d expect, themay find eye fillet with sweet potato, ginger on European technique and particular focus burger is the hero. 413 Brunswick St, Fitzroy;and soy or shredded lamb with chilli, garlic on French and Italian dishes – think garfish phone (03) 9419 0088.and spring onion. The room, transformed pie with fennel escabeche or buckwheatby the team at Hecker Guthrie, is cool and polenta with beef shin and parsley. There’s Left: Trocadero interior. Right: David’s restaurant. a nod to some broad Asian flavours, too. The room is stunning and nestled into the complex. Designed by Allan Powell, with artwork by Japanese graffiti artist Jun Inoue, Trocadero is a study of silvers and greys with statements of red and blacks. The space can seat up to 220 with a bar menu available all day and the brasserie menu for lunch and dinner. Arts Centre Melbourne, Hamer Hall, 100 St Kilda Rd; phone (03) 8698 8888. Melbourne is in the throws of a mad love affair with the burger. A few years ago, Neil Perry put his Wagyu burger on at the bar of Crown Casino’s Rockpool Bar & Grill and showed us all how sophisticated58 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

Hahndorf Hill Winery Adelaide Hills We don’t only champion our AustriansIntroducing our 2012 Pinot Grigio Crafted in the classic Italian style to be deliciously fresh and zesty. Perfect for the sizzling days and long, hot nights of summer. Trade enquiries NSW, QLD & VIC: Zenith Wine Agencies: 1300 883 056 SA: Melita Trimboli 0400 796 928www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

perthgrapevineROD PROPERJOHNThere are more than a few restaurants Oh, yes, Pagliaricci goes international and Mount Hawthorn rocks! Well, at leastgoing down the gurgler in these difficult also serves up a sensational apple strudel. Neighbourhood Pizza does and it’s just offtimes of high costs and shortage of Essentially an Austrian dish, he adds the main drag in the inner suburb. Think of acompetent staff, yet many more are chocolate to the fruit and nut mix within grunge pizza shop with background music totoughing it out. The successful ones are the pastry and this provides an additional suit, an industrial concrete floor, naked-bulbconsistent, have quality food and service, creamy richness, and he serves it with lighting, long tables and high tables, eclecticare reasonably conservative in the style of vanilla ice cream and velvety English-style choice of seating, red-topped pool table in afood they serve and, importantly, do not custard, it’s a knockout. Two courses at corner and kid’s tricycle hanging in another.charge excessively and that is a growing Perugino will cost about $55 which is It’s a converted underground garage orproblem in the west. Giuseppe Pagliaricci great value for the quality, degustation something similar, has access down a laneopened Perugino in West Perth in 1986 menus are available and the restaurant and you enter through a steel-barred door.and he is still there today with his family, has a stand-alone private dining room and Inside you’ll see a cracking wood-fired pizzaserving the wonderfully simple but quality courtyard for special events. 77 Outram St, oven and enough cut wood to last a suburbanItalian food he is noted for. Crisp white West Perth; phone (08) 9321 5420. fireplace a cold winter. Add to that threelinen, superior stemware and an extensive mad-keen owners behind the counter andwine list are an integral part of the 90-seat ilPasto is a cosy Italian trattoria just off you have a prescription for a damn goodPerugino, as is the enormously efficient Beaufort St in Inglewood that serves home- eat-in pizza and that’s what you get here.and professional service. Some dishes style Sicilian dishes in enjoyable quiet We smashed No 12 pizza on the blackboardI enjoyed there recently were a subtle surroundings with plenty of free parking menu - anchovy, capers, bocconcini, olivesucculent Italian sausage served with nearby. Carlo Collova, the co-owner/ and chilli ($19) all salty and savoury flavourslentils and sage, a slippery homemade chef, describes his trattoria, which he spread on the thinnest and crunchiest basetagliatelle with rich goose ragout and an opened just over 12 months ago, as less seen in a while, and followed with No 9, aauthoritative sticky braised beef cheek formal than a ristorante but more formal sweet potato, rosemary, potato, feta andwith a sobering dollop of polenta. There’s than an osteria, and his food as being chilli maple offering ($19), the sweet potatonothing cutting edge here but the quality modest and wholesome, his service as and the maple syrup giving it a sugary lift.and freshness of the food is hard to toss. casual and the prices reasonable. This We were also attracted by a simple buffalo sums it up pretty well. The 70 seater, with room for another 20 through bi-fold doors mozzarella and basil pizza ($17) and a more to alfresco pavement dining, is minimalist involved fennel sausage, roasted tomato, with concrete floors, white-painted walls, pine nuts, rocket and parmesan ($21). butchers paper over white napery on the Neighbourhood Pizza recently opened and tables, simple lighting and has friendly is BYO with corkage; it’s help yourself to staff bouncing around looking after diners’ glasses, no stemware here for wine drinkers, needs. The menu is not excitingly different just tumblers. It’s kid-friendly, so choose a but is made up of reliable dishes, just time that suits. Open 5-10pm, Wednesday- as chef described. We are comforted Sunday, rear of IGA car park, Anvil Lane, off by a robust Eggplant Parmigiana ($6), Scarborough Beach Rd, Mount Hawthorn; four thick slices of grilled eggplant in a SMS only 0419 507 432. rich tomato sauce for starters, a hearty Linguini Carbonara ($22) with plenty of Left: Perugino interior and entrance. thinly-sliced crisp pancetta and lots of Right: ilPasto exterior. garlicky olive oil and Pesce alla Grillia ($34) a delightful piece of grilled pink snapper (yes, the real stuff and in season) served with a green side salad and new potatoes. We dine mid-week and service is brisk, there is no waiting around once orders are taken and we enjoy the honesty of the food. Pity about the small, thick- rimmed, Paris goblets however that we drink our BYO wine from, they need to be trashed, trattoria notwithstanding, and half-decent glasses brought in to replace them. Open evenings only. 4/885 Beaufort St, Inglewood; phone (08) 9271 7870.60 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINSThe corporate lunch has made a slow outdoor dining especially attractive. The could better. But it’s his daily specialsbut steady revival in Adelaide, and it’s a Greek is family run, reflected by the board that hooks most lunchers, withlead that the non-corporate community many family photographs on the walls, dishes such as orecchiette with calamari,is following, especially with summer and its menu starts with a large selection peperoni and cold pressed lemon oil, orapproaching. One of the reasons is that of very good meze dishes, including gnocchi with pancetta and mushrooms.the city has some great corner verandas favourite home-style dishes such as Rigonis has always been noted for itsthat have been transformed into dining sauteed chicken livers with onion and excellent antipasti. Open breakfast, lunchhavens such as that of Chianti Classico white wine, locally caught calamari or and dinner Monday-Friday, 27 Leigh St,which has one of Adelaide’s best corner home-made sausages chargrilled with Adelaide; phone (08) 8231 5160.locations and wide, table-lined verandas Ouzo-marinated orange slices. PopularRegularly voted as providing the best main courses include slow-cooked The success of George Kasimatis at hislunch in the CBD, Chianti has been lamb shanks or baby goat, while the eponymous Georges on Waymouth haswinning awards for almost 30 years. gargantuan seafood or meat platters seen him hijacked, one hopes temporarily,Under the watchful eyes of owners Maria are ideal for sharing at a large table. by a Melbourne restaurant, but his legacyand Frank Favaro, chef Toby Gush The wine list is smallish but interesting, lives on as Georges continues to beexpertly recreates well-researched, well balanced and well priced. Open one of Adelaide’s best places to mixauthentic northern Italian dishes from the for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven business with a first-rate lunch right inVeneto, Toscana and Piemonte, of which days. 75 Halifax St, Adelaide; phone the middle of a rapidly expanding CBDthe slow roasted rabbit with pancetta, port (08) 8223 3336. restaurant precinct. The restaurant oftenand sage is a perennial stand-out, along doubles as a venue for informal businesswith a classic Venetian risotto nero with A shift in council policy is seeing more meetings throughout the day. But whensquid ink and calamari. Gush knows that inner city streets and laneways closed it comes to lunch, the intent is seriousbusiness lunchers these days are often to vehicle traffic, thus encouraging more with terrific antipasto and a daily specialspressed for time, so he also provides fast, street dining. One of the first to benefit menu that might include dishes such assuper simple dishes such as grilled local from this is Rigoni’s Bistro, which in roast quail with caramelised witlof andsnapper or Black Angus beef fillet with recent years has regained its pre-eminent roast quince, or seared barramundi withsalad. The antipasti, served only at lunch position in the lunch circuit, reminiscent of braised fennel and smoked mussels.as a platter for two, is also popular and The regular menu might include dishesgreat value. Chianti also has a great wine its opening days in 1979 when it attracted such as Berkshire pork with corn spatzle,list with plenty available by the glass. the most vibrant lunchtime crowd in peas and caramelised pear, or rabbitOpen for breakfast, lunch and dinner town. With its sea of white-clad tables, loin roulade with bitter greens, pancettaseven days. 160 Hutt St, Adelaide; phone terracotta floors and bentwood chairs, and chestnut puree. Even lunchtime(08) 8232 7955. it speaks of traditional Italian style, but appetites can stretch to concluding the although the cooking is as Italian as you meal with affogato and almond biscotti. Another of Adelaide’s best locations for can get, there’s not an Italian nonna in Breads and pastas are made in-house,alfresco dining is the Greek on Halifax. sight. Chef and co-owner Tony Bailey and there’s an excellent wine list withIt has a dozen outside tables well shaded comes through with the freshest calamari plenty by the glass. Open breakfast andunder large market umbrellas, while its fritti, traditional dishes such as slow- lunch Monday-Friday, dinner Thursday-glass door frontage folds back to provide cooked wild rabbit with green olives, Saturday, 20 Waymouth St, Adelaide;semi-outdoor dining. Its north-facing pasta dishes such as spaghetti tutto mare phone (08) 8211 6960.aspect ensures plenty of light and makes and a signature tiramisu that no nonna It’s worth adding that a few doors down the road Bistro Dom provides great competition with a prix fixe lunch menu that’s terrific value at $32 for two courses, including a glass of house wine. You might start with wild mushroom soup with white truffle oil, go on to a simple steak frites or Port Lincoln mussels with white wine, chilli and garlic, or end with poached blood plums with beetroot sorbet. Open for lunch Monday-Friday, dinner Wednesday- Saturday, 24 Waymouth St, Adelaide; phone (08) 8231 7000. Above: Chianti Classico exterior. Below: Rigoni’s Bistro outdoor dining. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 61

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGOcean Room always boasted stunning views soy-infused cream, soy caramel and spiced Canteen shares space with Don Campos, anof the Opera House and Sydney Harbour. vanilla ice cream. The wine list is extensive outpost of the famed coffee connoisseurs ofBut earlier this year the classy Japanese and the listings cover all geographic zones Newtown. That's why the vegetarian meccavenue finally got the adjoining Riviera-style from Europe through the Americas, Australia serves only teas - 18 of them. Six over-sizedpromenade it deserves. The feeling of being and New Zealand. The sommelier can wooden tables provide communal seatinga tourist in your own city has been intensified recommend tasting glasses for each course arrangements and there's a first-come-first-10-fold and during the height of summer you or you can stick with beer and sake. Whether served policy. The menu changes daily andwon't find a better outdoor lunch or dining you're looking for a romantic venue or the sort the descriptions biodynamic and organicdestination to impress family, business of place to impress the most sophisticated preface many a listing. The atmospherecolleagues and friends. The glamorous dining people you know, Ocean Room delivers in is very farmer's market and the breakfastsroom centres on shiny wood, a soaring curved spades. Ocean Room, Overseas Passenger featuring free-range eggs and organicceiling, porthole windows and a massive Terminal, Circular Quay West, The Rocks; meats are a sell-out. The meal-sized salads“chandelier” made up of 3000 tiny wooden phone (02) 9252 9585. are filling enough for men and anyone oncylinders. But the design hallmarks of Zetton, a diet would be best to choose somethingthe top-end Japanese restaurant group, and For years, the most compelling reasons else. Favourite mix-ups are: dill, broccoli,star designer Yasumichi Morita create a warm for visiting the tail end of Enmore Rd was green bean and kipfler potatoes with thymeand relaxing atmosphere. There's little of the to catch a show at the live theatre or make aioli and olive oil baked eggplant halvesreverential atmosphere and solemn etiquette arrangements at Simplicity Funerals. These with spiced pear yogurt. Bread and Circusof other Japanese fine dining restaurants. days there's a string of eateries of almost Wholefoods Canteen, 21 Fountain St,Corporate groups and Asian families make every ethnicity from Greek to Thai and the Alexandria; phone (02) 9698 2939.regular bookings and often begin their latest national cuisine to move in is - wait formeals at the bar sipping Kirin on tap, a it - American. Hartsyard, run by Gregory Wine lovers be warned. You won't get any atsmart cocktail or sake. The a la carte menu Llewellyn and Naomi Hart, has deservedly The Roosevelt. Or beer, either. With a cannyis extensive, but chef Raita Noda, ex-Rise in garnered rave reviews for its Deep South point-of-difference strategy, this Art Deco-Darlinghurst, specialises in regional tasting menu. Don't come here if you are a vegetarian style eatery partners cocktails with food. It'smenus. The 12-course roll-out we enjoyed but there's plenty to interest meat-eaters. not cheap - five courses with matching drinks The stand-out offering is the fried chicken costs $150 per person. Brian Geraghty,was a steal at $120 per person. The emphasis ex-Bilson's and Quay, serves up exquisitelyis on Japanese modern and Noda lets his accompanied by biscuits (the US version of cooked dishes such as roast duck withimagination loose with substantial dishes such savoury scones) and sausage gravy. I love almond butter and salted grapes with pack-as Hotate Xiao Long Bao (steamed Western the Oyster Po' Boy, an adaptation of the a-wallop mixed drinks such as Ashton'sAustralian scallop dumpling, Ocean Room's shellfish-stuffed baguettes famous in New Hunter's Punch - tequila, poire eau de vieXO sauce, red sake vinegar and soy) and Orleans. Leave plenty of room for the pretzel and black walnut bitters. Everyone eats atTwo Dimensional Jack's Creek Wagyu 8+ ice cream sundae - a dessert blow-out of two communal tables in the private diningMarble Score (table-smoked char-grilled fillet hot fudge sauce, banana-stuffed doughnuts room or you can just drop by for an after-workand slow-braised wagyu meat pie). The tail- and great gobs of pretzel-flavoured cocktail in the bar in your smartest Mad Menend of this bounteous feast of textures and ice cream. Hartsyard, 33 Enmore Rd, outfit. The Roosevelt Restaurant, 32 Orwell St,flavours was something to write home about, Newtown; phone (02) 8068 1473. Potts Point; phone (02) 8096 1787.too. Nori and Shoyu Angel cake - an artisticassortment of light-as cake with vanilla and Located in a former warehouse across Above: Ocean Room’s dishes from their 12 course the road from Dan Murphy's Alexandria tasting menu. premises, Bread and Circus Wholefoods62 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELSpring has sprung at the Emporium (Laruche and Lychee Lounge). With is a pleasant alternative spot away from theComplex in the heart of Fortitude Valley, chef Ben Williamson (ex-Cha Cha Char busy main road but with sun streaming inand at the Belle Epoque Patisserie it’s and 1889 Enoteca) and a talented young and plans for a kitchen garden in a corner.all about macarons, while next door at team at the burners, the food takes on a One tall brick wall is covered in clever graffiti,Tartufo, chef and owner Tony Percuoco very contemporary and slightly Middle all wood for the banquette seating and tablesis abuzz with joy over spring lamb, organic Eastern theme with dishes like organic is reclaimed, cutlery, flatware and adornmentspork and freshly picked baby vegetables. chicken wings and giblets, kishk, radish are also retro and recycled but the menu isFreestyle Tout’s Martin Duncan is also in and sesame crumb, free-range quail with bright and on trend. At lunch, pan-fried hamfull flight with new offerings on the dessert honey, lavender, pomegranate and sage hock and lentil terrine is dressed with a saucemenu like citrus tart with blood orange and the sublime saltbush lamb tagine gribiche and a soft-boiled egg. It’s rich andsorbet and much more. The various with candied orange and dates. Seared luscious, and so are the manchego cheesefashion and retail stores have a plethora mackerel with mussels, a sage-scented croquette with chilli tomato chutney, yamof springtime activities from champagne nage and zucchini blossoms is another fritters and knockout herbed polenta cakestyling sessions to grooming and jewellery winner but it’s the flathead topped with with beetroot caramel and goat’s cheeseredesign consultation appointments. sweet freshwater lobster and smoked puree. Ancient grain salads, a ‘steak sanga’All restaurants are 1000 Ann St, Fortitude potato puree that is a contender for dish and tempura king prawns appear in theValley. Freestyle Tout, phone (07) 3252 of the year. evenings, along with other offerings and a0214; Tartufo, phone (07) 3852 1500; small but solid wine selection and some fabCapri, phone (07) 3257 0401. Sides are also interesting - think heirloom beer options. 138 Boundary St, West End, tomato, sumac, shanklish and onion crisp, phone (07) 3844 3395. Freestyle Escape is Martin Duncan’s goji berries and organic cherries withother business - a beautiful retreat in the pistachio and almond rice and potatoes Skip over the Victoria Bridge into the casinopicturesque hinterland of the Sunshine fried with green chilli and coriander. There end of town on a Wednesday and you’ll findCoast, about 10 minutes’ drive from the is a better-than-average selection of yourself in the midst of foodie central - Janpopular tourist village of Montville. Luxury wines and cocktails, a pleasant outdoor Power’s Farmers’Market, CBD style. Half ofaccommodation and an alfresco kitchen space and a great recycled/retro interior the traders’ stalls groan with seasonal produceset this cooking school and art retreat dominated by a bespoke concrete bar. literally picked the day before. Others sellapart from the usual brand of B&B-style superb semolina pasta, artisan breads, freshaccommodation typical of the area. Before his arrival in Brisbane, West fish, meats and poultry and farm-fresh eggs. Australian-born Ben spent five years The other half is brimming with ready-to-eat It opened in 2009 and has since hosted working in Dubai so his ability with exotic treats like German sausages and sauerkraut,a plethora of talented national chefs such ingredients and the combinations thereof schnitzels, dumplings and noodles as wellas Longrain’s Martin Boetz, Jacques are inspired and creative as well as as luscious cakes and pastries. As it’s rightReymond, Adriano Zumbo, Matt approachable and void of too much on the river and in the heart of the CBD,Wilkinson, Dominique Rizzo and baker fussy foams, soils and the like. James St, a midweek visit feels more like a picnic thanRichard Cotton. Fortitude Valley, phone (07) 3852 3822. a brown bag lunch to break up the work day. See Janpowersfarmersmarkets.com.au or September brought Assiette chef Across the river at West End, Jam Jar has a phone 0417 720 943.Warren Turnbull, Masterchef’s Billy new star chef - Damien Styles, previously ofLaw, Christine Manfield and Conviction Q’Essense and before that at various spots in Dishes from Gerard’s Bistro. Left: Flathead, fresh waterKitchen’s Ian Curley were part of the Melbourne. Jam Jar has a unique courtyard- lobster, smoked potato, chanterelles and truffle.October line-up, and in November meets-unrenovated-Aussie-backyard, which Right: Warm octopus with butter, almond and smoke.Christine Manfield from Universal inSydney will conduct classes. There are also regular art classes -sculpture, acrylics, freestyle painting,working with charcoal and preliminaryportrait classes are on offer year-roundand the retreat is also available to rent forprivate parties, team-building retreats andupmarket hen’s weekends. 0 Simons Rd,Dulong, phone (07) 3262 3077. Up the road from Emporium in James St isGerard’s, tucked into the new developmentthat also houses Bucci Brisbane. It is the first restaurant for successfulbar owners Elie and Johnny Moubarak November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 63

winewords J O H N H A N C O C KSKYE MURTAGHAs a 12-year-old growing up on a farm 30km vine” and Scott-Henry training systems) conditions has a real potential to continueoutside of Kingston on South Australia’s simply didn’t work in these tough soils. the boom and bust nature of MarlboroughLimestone Coast, John Hancock was Experience in working with the vineyards sauvignon blanc, which also createssent a book on home winemaking by that we planted in our first vineyard in major issues for the rest of the country.the Country Library Lending Service. Its the Gravels showed us we needed to be Marlborough sauvignon blanc has beenarrival may not have marked the exact much more accurate with our soil moisture so successful internationally that it totallymoment this now-celebrated winemaker measurement and application, and that dominates the NZ industry with potentiallydecided to forge a career in the industry denser planting using vertical shoot training disastrous consequences. We need tobut, along with Max Lake’s Classic Wines was much more appropriate with our future show the world (and New Zealand!) thatof Australia, it ignited an interest which has developments. we’re about much more than just sauvignonbecome a lifelong passion. 2012 marks blanc and to a lesser degree, pinot noir.40 years since Hancock’s first harvest at What’s your stand-out personal This is a huge task for the other regions ofYalumba in 1972 and sees him relishing winemaking success to date? NZ but one that needs to be faced full on.his role as the “face” of Trinity Hill, one Probably the pioneering of barrelof the pioneer wineries of New Zealand’s fermentation of chardonnay back in 1984. What’s your favourite wine accessoryHawke’s Bay, of which he’s president, and why?founder and co-owner. A Roseworthy What’s the most memorable bottle of I love fine glassware. I can’t standCollege graduate, Hancock honed his wine you’ve ever consumed? restaurants that serve wine in cheap,winemaking craft in SA, landing his first The 1979 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne inappropriate glasses, using the excusegig at Leo Buring’s winery. Since 1979 Burgundy (Chardonnay) back in early 1981, that their staff break too many. Excuse me!though, he’s called New Zealand home enjoyed in the laboratory at Delegat’s after Heard of staff training?and his legacy here includes a rewarding work. This was a total revelation to me. I’dstint at Delegat’s Wine Estates and the role never seen a chardonnay anything like that Can you recall your first “drop”?of founding winemaker of Morton Estate and it blew me away with its richness, but Unfortunately I think it was Stone’s Greenwhere he produced several international elegance, its texture, balance and layers Ginger wine, in the back of an older friend’saward-winning wines. The Trinity Hill story of complexity. It was the first time I’d really FB Holden waiting to go into the Kingstonbegan in 1987, when John met Robert and seen that biscuity, mealy character I tried S.E. movies. I do remember my first seriousRobyn Wilson at their London restaurant. to capture with the first barrel-fermented dinner out at The Travelodge AdelaideOver a bottle, the concept of opening a wines I made a few years later. I didn’t before the Scotch College Ball in 1969winery capable of producing premium red know how Latour was able to get that until with a group of friends and partners. Sincewines, as well as white, in Hawke’s Bay’s I visited there later that year during harvest I was about to go off to study winemakingGimblett Gravels region was born. The in Burgundy. Then I saw what they werefirst chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and doing. An eye opening moment!merlot vines were planted in 1994, followedlater with syrah, viognier, tempranillo, Where’s the most unusual place you’vearneis, montepulciano and pinot gris, to ever consumed wine?name but a few. Hancock’s experience I had a wonderful dinner more than 20working with top wine houses in the years ago in the Cathedral Cave at theRhone and Burgundy has been a major Waitomo Cave system in the centralinfluence on the wine styles produced at North Island of NZ. Apparently only oneTrinity Hill, perhaps best demonstrated by other dinner had been held in there,the richly rewarded Trinity Hill Homage very early in the 1900s, and due to theSyrah. Today, with Warren Gibson at the environmentally sensitive nature of thewinemaking helm, the super premium caves, it’s very unlikely to happen again.Homage is ably supported by a top quality We drank a range of Morton EstateGimblett Gravels range and a value for wines, including the famed 1986 Blackmoney Hawke’s Bay range. Label Chardonnay, a real driver of barrel- fermented chardonnay in Australasia.What was the toughest challenge youfaced starting up Trinity Hill? What do you see as the biggestWe lacked experience growing grapes in challenge facing NZ’s wine industry inthese deep, extremely free-draining gravel the next five years?soils. Using viticultural techniques that were The up and down nature of grape yields insuccessful in more fertile soils (such as “big NZ due to our variable seasonal flowering64 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

at Roseworthy, I was designated to choosethe wine - Penfolds Sparkling Burgundy, ifI recall correctly. Don’t remember what ittasted like!How have your personal wine tasteschanged over the years?I’ve changed from really enjoying big, full-bodied, traditional Australian styled reds tomore food-friendly, more elegant medium-bodied, more savoury styles ie: from thetraditional Barossa shiraz to a modernHawke’s Bay or Northern Rhone syrah.Where’s your favourite winery in the world?I think Paul Jaboulet Aine in Tainl’Hermitage, even though they went througha rough period when some of the wineswere disappointing. I worked there duringthe 1996 harvest and learned a lot about thephilosophy of Rhone syrah, and was ableto apply some of that to our journey intosyrah in Hawke’s Bay. Also their top wine,La Chapelle, has been one I’ve collectedover the years. The 1978 and the 1990 were(and are) inspirational wines. Unfortunatelyhave never had the opportunity to try thelegendary 1961.Who’s been the most influentialperson in your career and what wastheir best advice?Even though I only worked with him fora short while at Leo Buring, it wouldhave to be the great John Vickery. He isprobably the greatest white winemakerever in Australia. I recall from 1974, “Goodhousekeeping is good winemaking, youngman.” Great advice.Trinity Hill prides itself on producingwines that are food friendly. Share yourideal food and wine Christmas spread!Start with a glass of “H” blanc de blancbubbly, then move into a traditionalChristmas lunch of turkey and ham with a2008 Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay andthen ’06 Homage Syrah with some greatlocal Hawke’s Bay soft cheese. Then aglass of 2005 Noble Viognier with somefresh Hawke’s Bay fruit – white-fleshednectarine and peach. Finish off with a smallglass of ’07 Touriga Nacionale port stylewine, followed by a little lay down! November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 65

bookwormsCHARLES GENTAUSTRALIAN WINE AUTHENTIC WINE: PEOPLE BEHIND THECOMPANION TOWARD NATURAL AND WINES OF HEATHCOTE SUSTAINABLE WINEMAKINGBy James Halliday By Kate HicksPublished by Hardie Grant By Jamie Goode and Sam Harrop Published by CM Hicks and AssociatesRRP $36.95 Published by University of California Press RRP $29.95 RRP $39.95James Halliday may have slimmed down A for mer bank manager, teachers,in recent years, but his Australian Wine The spectre haunting international a chemical engineer and a swag ofGuide hasn’t. The 2013 version once again winegrowing is, according to Jamie Goode farmers, as well as retirees and refugeesdoes its level best to rate every winery in and Sam Harrop, “creeping homogenisation”, from the corporate world, help to makethe country and review a goodly sample of and this book is their manifesto on the ways up the winegrowing fabric of Heathcote.their output. The new edition weighs in at to get wine back on track, in terms not only The mid-Victorian region counts leading770-odd pages and addresses the merits of its quality and character, but also in its lights such as Jasper Hill, Hanging Rockof some 1380 wineries. effects on the environment. and Wild Duck Creek among its numerous small-volume producers. This book There are inherent weaknesses in any The pair is well pedigreed, with Goode traces Heathcote’s impressive rise to thesuch venture - the hard copy is almost the proprietor of the famed website www. front rank of Australian shiraz regionsinstantly out of date because of waves wineanorak.com and Harrop a Master of Wine. through the medium of some 60 pottedof new releases, and while the cover After explaining their take on the meaning of biographies of the locals, written andcalls the book “definitive”, the reviews “authentic” and “natural” wine, they go on to compiled by Kate Hicks.represent a single subjective opinion, urge sustainable winegrowing as a sort ofhowever distinguished. The problem can “third way”, proposing a set of winegrowing The subjects are generously quoted inbe clearly seen when Halliday awards practices that avoids the depredations of their own words, and the effect is charminga wine gold-medal points and declares agrichemicals but which is more commercially and intimate, cumulatively building ait fit for two decades in the cellar, while viable on a large scale than doctrinaire organic palpable sense of the Heathcote pridea rival eminence rouge gives the same or biodynamic approaches. and ethos. Many of the vignerons arewine a grudging bronze and only a few first-timers - some still commute fromyears to live. They make their arguments without hysteria day jobs in Melbourne - and the area or hyperbole, and one of the book’s great has lured residents from other states and Niggles aside, it’s an enormously assets is the calm clarity with which it explains beyond (among them a daughter of theuseful book for its compendious factual complex science. The authors argue that Hunter Valley Tyrrells), but also includesinformation, back vintage ratings and there are dangers in paying too little attention the Rathjens of Whistling Eagle winery,snapshot of the year’s best wines. to terroir, but also in over-asserting the role of descendants of the man whose originalIt’s especially nice to see Kilikanoon place at the expense of the human element. plantings of grapes in the area fell to therewarded for its unflagging excellence The discussion on wine faults - anathema in sheep in the 1920s.with the Winery of the Year gong. the New World and an intrinsic part of a wine’s personality in the Old - is fascinating, while the The scenery is idyllic (the book is The AWC is also worth having on hand for biodynamicists are let down gently; the benefit generously illustrated with photographs). Ifchecking recommended retail prices against to their wines derives from organic practices Heathcote sounds like an advertisement forpurported ‘discounts’ by the liquor chains. and more time spent in the vineyards, the the union between cool-climate terroir and authors say. This is an important book and, small-scale winemaking, that’s probably what’s more, a persuasive one. because it is.66 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. AUSTRALIAN 2005 $260 2002 $140 Armagh Shiraz Quintet  1999 $400 1998 $190 WINES 2006 $250 2004 $190 1990 $200 1990 $160  2000 $420 1999 $95 2005 $120 1991 $180 1991 $80 2001 $370 2000 $80 BASS PHILLIP 2006 $120 1992 $120 1992 $90  2002 $450 2001 $85Premium Pinot Noir CLONAKILLA 2007 Not Released 1993 $110 1993 $80 2003 $400 2002 $110 Shiraz Viognier 2008 $140 1994 $130 1994 $90 2004 $460 2003 $100 1990 $75 1990 $65 1995 $130 1995 $100 2005 $420 2004 $95 1991 $90 1993 $65 Meshach 1996 $180  1996 $120 2006 $500 2005 $95 1992 $95 1994 $85 1990 $75  1997 $150 1997 $110 2006 $95 1993 $80 1995 $65 1991 $85 1998 $220 1998 $160 Bin 707 2007 $80 1994 $110 1996 $100 1992 $80 1999 $130 1999 $100 1980 $180  2008 $95 1995 $80 1997 $130 1993 $70 2000 $120 2000 $120 1981 Not Released 2009 $75 1996 $110 1998 $150 1994 $90 2001 $140 2001 $110 1982 $150 1997 $140 1999 $55 1995 $65 2002 $190 2002 $110 1983 $160  THREE RIVERS 1998 $110 2000 $90 1996 $85  2004 $140 2003 $90 1984 $190  Chris Ringland 1999 $110 2001 $130 1997 Not Released 2005 $120 2004 $110 1985 $170 2000 $110 2002 $130 1998 $110 2006 $160  2005 $110 1986 $220 Shiraz 2001 $180 2003 $100 1999 $85 2007 $95 2006 $90 1987 $180  1990 $520 2002 $145 2004 $100 2000 $70 2007 $70 1988 $190  1991 $650 2003 $110 2005 $110 2001 $110 Chardonnay 2008 $95 1989 $180 1992 $550 2004 $110 2006 $100 2002 $95 Art Series 1990 $220  1993 $650 2005 $80 2007 $150 2003 $55 1991 $220 1994 $650 2007 $120 2008 $90 2004 $70 1990 $60 1992 $200 1995 $450 2008 $80 2009 $95 2005 $65 1991 $60 1993 $180 1996 $710 2009 $85 1992 $70 1994 $200  1997 Not Released GREENOCK 1993 $65 1995 Not Released 1998 $850 BINDI Cabernet Merlot CREEK 1994 $85 1996 $220 1999 $600Block 5 Pinot Noir 1999 $95 1995 $100 1997 $190  2000 $4501997 $80 2000 $70  Roennfeldt Rd 1996 $65 1998 $280 2001 $8501998 $95 2001 $110  Shiraz 1997 $90 1999 $200 2002 $8001999 Not Released 2002 $90  1998 $70 2000 Not Released 2003 $5002000 $150 2003 $85  1995 $280 1999 $75 2001 $1902001 $120 2004 $90  1996 $260 2000 $75 Bin 95 Grange 2002 $180 Shiraz2002 $110 2005 $85  1997 $160 2001 $80 1951 $45,000 2003 Not Released 1990 $1452003 $85 2006 $70  1998 $350 2002 $75 1952 $17,000 2004 $200 1991 $1302004 $110 2007 $85  1999 $180 2003 $80 1953 $14,000 2005 $200  1992 $802005 $120 2008 $90  2000 $220 2004 $90 1954 $10,000 2006 $180 1993 $902006 $90 2001 $240 2005 $75 1955 $3,200 2007 $160 1994 $1202007 $110 2002 $320 2006 $70 1956 $13,000 2008 $190 1995 $952008 $110 2003 $200 2007 $85 1957 $12,000 1996 $1602009 $90 2004 $210 1958 $4,100 1997 $702010 $95 2005 $250 MOSS WOOD 1959 $2,000 Bin 60A 1998 $140 Cab Sauv 1960 $1,500 1962 $4,000 1999 $80 Hill of Grace 1961 $1,600 2004 $460 2000 $70 1980 $250 1990 $130 1962 $1,600 2001 $95 Graveyard Shiraz Command Shiraz 1981 $230 1991 $150 1963 $1,000 Stonewell Shiraz 2002 $150 1990 $90 1990 $120 1982 $220 1992 $120 1964 $1,100  11990 $90 2003 $80 1991 $95 1991 Not Released 1983 $220 1993 $100 1965 $550 1991 $70 2004 $120 1992 Not Released 1992 $100 1984 $210 1994 $100 1966 $700 1992 $60 2005 $130 1993 $75 1993 $65 1985 $280  1995 $100 1967 $700 1993 $65 2006 $130 1994 $80 1994 $95 1986 $340 1996 $100 1968 $550 1994 $55 2008 $100 1995 $70 1995 $75 1987 $220 1997 $100 1969 $550 1995 $55 2009 $130 1996 $95 1996 $95 1988 $320 1998 $150 1970 $400 1996 $70 1997 $75 1997 $80 1989 $260  1999 $130  1971 $780 1997 $55 Para Liqueur 1998 $110 1998 $90 1990 $460 2000 $110 1972 $400 1998 $80 1878 $2,000  1999 $90 1999 $60 1991 $400 2001 $120 1973 $400 1999 $75 1879 $1,200 2000 $100 2000 $65 1992 $250  2002 $85 1974 $400 2000 $70 1880 $800 2001 $80 2001 $65 1993 $260  2003 $85 1975 $400 2001 $65 1881 $800 2002 $75 2002 $80 1994 $340 2004 $80 1976 $580 2002 $70 1882 $1,000 2003 $80 2003 $60 1995 $300 2005 $90 1977 $400 2004 $85 1887 $800 2004 $80 2004 $70 1996 $460 2006 $65 1978 $400 2005 $60 1893 $1,000 2005 $85 2005 $65 1997 $320 2007 $75 1979 $380 1899 $1,000 2006 $100 2006 $65 1998 $420 2008 $85 1980 $360 Basket Press 1901 $650 2007 $90 1999 $380 1981 $400 Shiraz 1908 $550CLARENDON HILLS 2001 $360 1982 $370 1910 $500 GIACONDA 2002 $440 1983 $430 1990 $150 1922 $350 Astralis Shiraz Chardonnay 2004 $380 1984 $370 1991 $140 1925 $600 1994 $200 1990 $110 2005 $350 1985 $400 1992 $95 1927 $280 1995 $200 1991 $60 2006 $310 1986 $550 1993 $75 1930 $120 1996 $300 1992 $85 1987 $350 1994 $90 1933 $110 1997 $200 1993 $90 1988 $350 1995 $65 1939 $80 1998 $260 1994 $100 1989 $360 1996 $140 1944 $70 1999 $260 1995 $85 1990 $580 1997 $95 1947 $55 2000 $270 1996 $130 1991 $480 2001 $290 1997 $90 1992 $380 2002 $330 1998 $125 1993 $360 2003 $210 1999 $110 1994 $380 2004 $350 2000 $110 1995 $370 2001 $110 1996 $500 1997 $360 1998 $580 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 67

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts $4371. The sale attracted buyers from across Australia and around the world, LANGTON’S WINE LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS highlighting the continuing strength of AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (INTERIM 3RD QUARTER Penfolds in the secondary market. At Weekly Wine Auctions MARKET REPORT) the time of writing, Penfolds had just (held on Wednesdays) Sales conditions remained solid through wrapped up three very successful days of Melbourne: July and early August. Steady demand for Grange clinics in Sydney. The popularity of October 31-November 7 Australian and imported wine, together these clinics and the remarkable diversity Sydney: November 7-14 with an influx of new listings, has seen of wine brought in for inspection, also Melbourne: November 14-21 overall buyer participation remain steady underscores the enduring importance Sydney: November 21-28 through the early part of the third-quarter. of Penfolds in the hearts and cellars of Sydney: November 30-December 7 Despite the continued uncertainty Australian wine collectors. (Opera Australia) plaguing global markets, the secondary Sydney: December 5-12 wine market continues to track along with July sales saw Australian icon wines Melbourne: December 12-19 solid price realisations unencumbered by continue to perform well at auction. Wines Sydney: December 19-26 negative sentiment. at peak maturity (20 years) were sought after with a double magnum of 1991 Petaluma Stock entry cut-off is 10 days prior Langton’s annual Penfolds Wine Auction Coonawarra achieving $300 and a bottle of at the end of June was a great success, 1990 Mount Mary Quintet reaching $220. STERLING WINE with a sizeable and diverse catalogue Bottles from the mid-20th century also AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE of Penfolds wines ranging from market generated interest with a 1962 Wynns November 2-14 staples, including Bin 28, 128, 389 and Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon reaching (consignment deadline: October 29) 407 through to experimental bins and rare $186 and a 1963 Seppelt Great Western November 30-December 12 bottles of early 1950s Grange. Always Sparkling Burgundy attaining $340. A rare (consignment deadline: November 26) a highlight of the auction calendar, this bottle of 1947 Hardy’s Claret Tintara Reserve year’s sale comprised over 1500 lots, Bin Cabernet Sauvignon achieved $426. ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS including three bottles of 1951 Penfolds November 27 (closes November 2) Grange and a bottle of 1962 Penfolds Bin Demand for imported wines continues December 11 (closes November 23) 60A. Among the many highlights of the to grow, particularly for fine wines from auction was a bottle of 1953 Penfolds Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne. GRAYSONLINE Bin 86C Grange attaining $17,941 and a Highlights in the early part of the quarter Daily wine auctions bottle of 1951 Penfolds Bin 1 achieving included a 1990 Chateau Cheval Blanc (featuring a range of red and white $41,748. The iconic 1962 Penfolds Bin magnum attaining $2645 and a bottle wines, and regional and country- 60A (voted one of the top 10 wines in of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Le specific sales) the world to try before you die) achieved Montrachet achieving $3565. A previously underperforming wine at auction, 1986 CRACKA WINES Chateau Beychevelle also surprised, Live wine auctions every day selling for $161, a significant increase at 1pm and 8pm on weekdays and over the last sale price. Prestige Cognac 8pm on weekends and Spirits, although still a niche market, also provided some highlights with a (all dates subject to change, bottle of Remy Martin Louis XIII Cognac without notice) selling for $1789 and Bundaberg Vat 100 1888-1988 Centenary Rum achieving $1048. At the mid-point of the quarter, the market is showing remarkable resilience. The balance of supply and demand is always quite delicate, but supply is easing and this trend is likely to continue as we enter the busiest part of the year. With solid clearance rates, increasing buyer participation and generally positive sentiment, all signs point to the secondary fine wine market continuing to chart a steady course throughout the remainder of the quarter and well into the spring. For more information visit www.langtons.com.au. All prices include buyers’ premium.68 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

wine investment & collectingODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS Penfolds Bin 707 appears to be continuing ports, with buyers finally returning after what(AUGUST AUCTION REPORT, but is constrained by stock undersupply seemed a six-month drought. On the PenfoldsBY GRAHAM WRIGHT) as clearances still remain strong. Overall, front, Bins 128, 389 and 707 continue to haveI’ll start by stating the very obvious. The although Oddbins’ stock supply has been tight, good clearances, especially when presentedmood of the secondary wine market has there finally appears to be a return to normality as six packs. Early pre-1990’s Grange in goodgenerally reflected the mood of the Australian The major highlights from the August Premium to perfect condition is currently hard to find butconsumer retail market. Hands have, for the Auction included the sale of 1990 Penfolds solid and increased clearances can be reportedpast few months, been firmly kept in their Grange magnums for a hammer price of $900, for vintages from the 1990s and early 2000s.pockets, spending subdued and saving the an imperial of 1993 Lehmann Stonewell for Even with the Penfold’s Clinics starting up,call to arms. But there’s been a glimmer of $550, 2002 Roederer Cristal fetching $300, our Imperfect Grange section remains slow.light at the end of this long, six-month tunnel 1995 Chateau d’Yquem achieving $290 and With the August Budget Auction, buyersof fiscal rectitude, as we’re starting to spot a ’95 Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Road Shiraz were after bulk with plenty keen to pick upchange in our buyer’s and vendor’s moods. going for $220 per bottle. Buyers were keen large quantities of the Australian Formula OneBuyers aren’t only returning to their tried to bid up on Faiveley’s famed 1999 Corton Grand Prix ports on offer. From a categoryand trusted wine styles and wineries, but Charlemagne, going 23 per cent above the I thought was in decline, there’s still life inauction buyers are starting to get a little more top ends of the guides, while Hardy’s 1975 these Aussie fortifieds. Buyers were alsoadventurous and vendors are beginning to Museum Port went 12 per cent above. clearing up 2008 Chapman Stevens Slo Floopen their cellars up once again. Another notable bid saw Saltram’s 2002 Barossa Valley Shiraz and Kay Bros Hillside Jimmy Watson trophy winning Eighth Maker and Amery Shiraz from 2003. Other good The adventure has been demonstrated going 8 per cent above the top end of the clearances were reported for 1995 Parkerin the tremendous uptake of a very large guides. Buyers were also keen on the large Terra Rossa Cabernet, ’98 Tahbilk Shiraz, 2007consignment of Wild Duck Creek Estate consignment of Clarendon Hills Hickinbotham 3 Drops Chardonnay and the various sweetwines - a wine style and winery that’s been and St Moritz Syrah and Grenache, Glaetzer’s Loire wines on offer. Top dollar for the nightdifficult to sell in the past. Also, buyers have flagship Amon Ra from 2010, Langmeil’s The goes to the $22 hammer price paid for 500mlshown a keen interest in picking up late Freedom, Rockford Basket Press from the late ornamental decanters of Formula One portvintage Rockford Basket Press Shiraz, Noon’s 2000s and its Black Sparkling Shiraz. The very along with the same price paid for Torbreck’sReserves, Greenock Creek super premiums large offering of a variety of Wild Duck Estate Juveniles from $22. Finally, best wishes to theand Wendouree. All these wineries at auction wines also cleared exceedingly well as did buyer who succeeded in securing a numberhave been slow for some months. Conversely, Wynn’s cabernets, including John Riddoch of lots of 2009 Yellowbird Chardonnay at $2buyers have returned to the two traditional and Michael Shiraz, especially from 1998. A a bottle. Well spent sir! For more informationleaders of the Australian wine auction market: special cheer for Seppelt Para vintage dated visit www.oddbins.com.au.Grange and Hill of Grace - while the fad for November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 69

wine investment & collectingCRACKA WINES popularity of premium chardonnay as a can only assume that wine prices will end(JULY-AUGUST REPORT, variety. At the top end we’ve seen the up following this trend, too, particularly forBY ANGUS HUGHSON) 2007 vintage Penfolds Grange under- the more “classic” Australian red wines.It’s been a record-breaking period at Cracka, perform compared to other more heralded Time will tell. Cracka Wines conductwith new records for both the number vintages, hitting just $444 in recent auctions live wine auctions every day. For moreof bids placed and wines purchased, - well down from the $600 RRP and again information, visit www.crackawines.com.coinciding with over 2500 wines now showing the weakness of this vintage for au or email help@crackawines.com.au.available for purchase. Not bad considering Grange. At the same time, the 2009 Bin 28 All quoted prices are per bottle with noCracka is yet to celebrate even its second continues to track upwards in price, with buyers’ premium applicable.birthday. Interestingly, while auctions a recent auction seeing some 435 bidshave been strong, the appetite for super placed and the wine hitting a new auction STERLING WINEpremium wines sold through our fixed- high of $28 per bottle. AUCTIONS & EXCHANGEprice, cellar door sales side continues to (AUGUST REVIEW, BY LYNTON BARBER)increase. A perfect example is the $45 Champagne continues to perform strongly Sterling Wine Auctions processes huge(RRP) 2009 Grant Burge Corryton Park in auction, too, with Mumm going for quantities of premium back vintageCabernet Sauvignon of which over 100 six- $60 a bottle in a recent unreserved sale chardonnay and many bottles of Margaretpacks were sold in just a few hours as part on the back of some absolutely frenetic River, Adelaide Hills and Yarra Valley winesof a recent offer. In other buying trends, bidding. Imported wines in general have have blown away sceptical buyers withwe continue to see budget Australian been strong, with well-priced wines like unbelievable freshness and stunning bottlechardonnay (sub $20) selling meekly, while Boschendal Franschhoek Chenin Blanc, development - even at 30 years of age! Sadly,similarly priced sauvignon blanc enjoys Fontanafredda Langhe Nebbiolo and the there’s a dark side to this tale, literally. Somealmost evergreen popularity. Witness the La Vendetta Tuscan Sangiovese selling think wine auctioneers sit around drinkingFush ‘n Chups Marlborough Sauvignon strongly despite their relatively unknown smart wines and counting money. The starkBlanc, which regularly has 300+ bids per status. Again, the unreserved auctions are reality couldn’t be further from the truth.auction, with the price realisations climbing where all the action is at Cracka - although Sterling carefully colour checks and gradesrecently from an average of $8.50 to closer the average prices realised from these sales every bottle of chardonnay older than 2005to $10.50 per bottle. Conversely, premium is often much higher than the equivalent and we insist on checking chardonnay colourschardonnay (at the $30+ price point) from with a reserve price. In the broader market in front of the vendor. Every carton opened,the likes of Fraser Gallop Estate, Shaw & we’ve had feedback from wine producers every bottle checked. To date, the acceptedSmith and Larry Cherubino continues to that the supply of many wines may soon practice is to grade colour from bright (nosell well, again pointing to the resurgent become tighter, largely on the back of brown/orange tinges) to developed for wine unprecedented demand from China. WeOddbins Wine Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine Auctions www.oddbins.com.au Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Looking for Wine? Email: oddbins@oddbins.com.au Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how to buy wine in three easy steps… Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experieIntc’seW...hat we do Best!70 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

wine investment & collectingcolour that is darker and showing brown and should receive more attention. Auctiontints. The extreme is the orange/brown wine In terms of the wines to watch, Sterlinggraded dark. This grade is basically NCV as Cashit’s nothing like the bright wine in flavour or has a finger on the back vintage pulse NOW!appearance. Sterling will no longer catalogue and the demand surges. The Watsonany back vintage chardonnay graded below family of Margaret River’s Woodlands is In a Hurry?bright in colour. The most often blamed most definitely out of the woods and onfactors include cellar conditions and transport the fast track with big committed quality The Wine Auction Process will gettemperatures, high intervention winemaking distribution, growing consumer demand, you better returns, but it could takeprocesses common in the 1990s and the rapturous reviews and plenty of show months to sell every last bottle.favourite whipping boy is of course - corks awards. Prices are starting to surge withas closures. The transition to screw caps was demand beginning to outpace supply. Buy Consider a quick cash deal?a watershed and dark colours are certainly the rarer super premium Woodlands’ winesless common under stelvin. Unfortunately, (cabernets and chardonnay) now - before Sterling has a monthly “Live on Line”the problem isn’t just about cellar conditions the price ramp. Penfolds Bin 707 is the Wine Auction that taps hugeand closures. Premium chardonnay vintages undisputed flash Charlie of the game with International demand for premiumas recent as 2002 that retailed for up to $120 world demand jumping every year despite back vintages. Find out how Sterlinga bottle, from perfect cellaring conditions, hefty release price jumps. How far will it go? works harder and smarter to producepresent a mixed bag when the box is opened Will the Cabernet Star of the South outshine the best results for you.for bottle checking. Typically, each box yields Penfolds iconic Grange? Time will tell.50 per cent good bright bottles and often FREE Auction Cataloguesthe rest are too dark to sell. My advice is to There are so many wine families who’ve FREE Bidder Registrationsteer away from guessing the causes and struggled generation after decade to excelnaming examples. in the wines they produce. Just having a big Phone Lynton 08 9388 9955 name like Hardy, Tolley, Penfolds or Seppelt or 0418 949 837, Where to with this? Please don’t judge all etc doesn’t mean the path is smooth or fast.old chardonnays by the disappointments of In fact, a big family reputation can weigh very or www.sterlingwine.com.auwines that have travelled badly and suffer heavily on young guns trying to find theirfrom “random oxidation”. If the colour is way. The Murray Street Vineyard project, STERLINGmore than a few points darker than current with young Andrew Seppelt at the helm, Wine Auctions & Exchangerelease it’s most likely faulted. Back vintage is a producer to watch. Its range, qualitypremium Australian chardonnays are a joy and value are hard to match. In my view its current purple patch will see the prices surge. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 71

wine investment & collectingIt can’t produce more volume of its of Henschke Hill of Grace keep performing Shiraz, three bottles of 2001 Cape Mentellepremiums, mainly from ancient old single well in the market with the 1982 and ’84 Trinders Cabernet Merlot and three bottlesvineyards around Barossa’s heart in vintages selling for over $700. There’s also of 2000 Tatachilla Cabernet Sauvignon - allGreenock. Dan Standish and family have strong demand for Seppelt Para Liqueur of which would make the perfect dinnerroots into the Barossa earth deeper and from various vintages, with a 120-year-old table accompaniment.stronger than just about the most ancient 1887 vintage setting a record price of $1700.shiraz or grenache vines. Whether it’s Perfectly aged wines include Grant BurgeStandish’s work with his own signature Penfolds Grange has continued to be very Meshach from 1988 and 1996, whilelabel or with Massena, he’s making waves strong in volume and value throughout this d’Arenberg’s The Coppermine Road and Deadthat won’t be ignored. To me, the single period. We saw great results with magnums Arm Shiraz from the early 2000s continue tovineyard/region Standish premiums are from the 1980s and a bottle from the 1970s impress me with their rich flavours and subtlesimply stunning. Again, can’t make the old all setting the benchmark for demand and tannins. Older Penfolds from the 1996 andvineyards work harder, so the supply is fixed. price. It was a pleasure escorting a couple 1998 vintages continue to perform well aboveMaybe the best value is the Massena The of vendors to the 2012 Penfolds re-corking expectations and I’m sure they’ve added richEleventh Hour. Buy the 2010! For more clinic. There I had the opportunity to try over flavours to those winter nights.details visit www.sterlingwine.com.au. 20 different vintages of Penfolds Grange, Australia’s premier wine. It was great With the new year just around the cornerGRAYSONLINE to see the sense of relief on the Grange it’s time to send in your iconic wines(2012 REVIEW, BY GREG owner’s faces when Peter Gago and other as buyers look to celebrate significantFITZSIMMONS) Penfolds winemakers put the certificate of birthdays in 2013. There will be strongAt GraysOnline Private Cellar Auctions the authentication on their much-loved and long- demand for Grange, Henschke and otherwinter months have long been considered cellared wines. The re-corking clinic stamp great wines from the 1963, 1973 and 1983“moving months”, to use a golfing term, of approval can help these wines achieve vintages as people celebrate their 50th,as we see spikes in both volume and value up to 20 per cent higher results when they 40th and 30th birthdays respectively. Don’tfor our premium auction results - with many go through the GraysOnline auctions. forget the younger generation of winesetting new records. Recently a magnum drinkers either, with 1982 vintages beingof 1989 Penfolds Grange sold for a touch Some great drinking bargains can still sought after for 21st birthdays.over $2000, a record anywhere in auctions, be had between the $50-$60 price points.and the ever-performing Bundaberg Rum Recent examples include a bottle of 1986 As a Winestate special offer toVat 100 continues to overachieve with the Wynn’s Cabernet Hermitage Shiraz, two readers, get $20.00 off your next orderlatest sale in excess of $1800. Magnums bottles of 2000 Wynn’s Cabernet Sauvignon, by entering the special promo code three bottles of 2002 Glaetzer Nefertari WINESTATE112012. For more information Shiraz, four bottles of 1995 Bridgewater Mill visit www.graysonline.com. Prices listed don’t include buyers’ premium.72 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

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330 TASTED199 AWARDEDPINOT NOIRA much better result this year from one of the most testing varietals Huntaway Reserve The Peoples’ Winewhen finesse is king and sometimes less is more. It requires a fine Central Otago Pinot Central Otago Pinotbalance between getting fruit intensity, but not to the extent that it Noir 2011 HHH1/2 Noir 2011 HHHbecomes a dry red. All power to those who managed to jiggle all the Rich cherry red wine. Attractive berry aromaticselements to make a great pinot! Subtle spicy fruit bouquet - good persistence of and long, simple, stalky, raspberry flavours oaky palate with nice with fine, silky tannins. clove-like spice element. $23.99 NZ 3-5 $23.99 Ara Single Estate Marlborough PinotPINOT NOIR Aldi Stores The Tudor PINOT NOIR Ara Pathway Noir 2011 HHHUNDER $20 Yarra Valley Pinot 2011 Marlborough Pinot Bright, youthful wine Noir 2010 HHH1/2 $20 - $25 Noir 2011 HHH with a sweet, cherry22 TASTED Smells of cherry jam with Subtle, developing, earthy liqueur-like nose7 AWARDED subtle gamey characters. 28 TASTED aromas and sweet, and straightforward, Warm and tangy in the strawberry palate with unevolved palate.The judges found this mouth with good varietal 12 AWARDED more of the earthy notes.tasting tough going! flavour. $12.99 3-5 $24.99 NZAlthough most were Main Divide 3-5 $21.99 NZtechnically well made Canterbury Pinot PINOT NOIRthey lacked any depth Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Good wines were few The Crossings 2010 & OLDERoverall with far too many Rich cherry nose - and far between here. Awatere Valley $20 - $25green wines either some toast and mint. There was a general lack Marlborough Pinotwith a lack of ripeness Palate has impressive of fruit depth. A very Noir 2011 HHH 22 TASTEDor unbalanced by the weight and powerful difficult 2011 vintage Fresh, gamey bouquet 8 AWARDEDaddition of green stalks. fruit with a hot finish. for most of Australia so and silky-smooth palate New Zealand dominated with good oak and berryRockcliffe Wines 5+ $19.95 NZ this group. integration. $21.99 NZQuarram Rocks Great Rockcliffe WinesSouthern Pinot Noir Quarram Rocks Crowded House A stronger class of pinots2010 HHHH Pinot Noir 2011 HHH Nelson Marlborough than the 2011 showingRipe, brooding style with Restrained, strawberry Pinot Noir 2011 HHH more fruit generosity.good drive and structure. nose while oak Restrained raspberrySavoury aromas. Palate dominates the palate. Pencarrow bouquet with somehas good balance Firm on the finish. $14 Martinborough Pinot Boulder Bank Reservebetween the varietal Nepenthe Altitude Noir 2011 HHHH earthiness and well- Marlborough Pinotfruit, oak and tannins. Pinot Noir 2011 HHH rounded, balanced, cherry Noir 2010 HHHH1/2 Sweet lifted berry nose Intense, ruby red wine. palate. 5+ $22 “A very classy wine,” said 3-5 $14 with hints of violets and Very big, oak-dominated one judge. Ripe, earthy, ripe berry basket of a style with some forest plum aromas and juicyWalnut Block palate. $19.99 floor-like characters. Totara Central palate with long, sweet,Wines Collectables Walnut Block Otago Pinot Noir well-focused varietalMarlborough Pinot Wines Collectables Showing plenty of 2011 HHH flavours supported byNoir 2010 HHHH Marlborough Pinot potential. 3-5 $24 good tannin structure.A lovely strawberry Noir 2011 HHH Light savoury aromas andjam bouquet with a big Herbal/strawberry soft, subtle, boiled lolly- 3-5 $21.99lift of spice and similar bouquet. Palate has Drift Wines like flavours. Just needscharacters echoed on intensity and weight Marlborough Pinot more time. 3-5 $22the long, soft palate. with oak adding Noir 2011 HHHHA very enjoyable drink. sweetness and Lovely toasty/earthy Kim Crawford Silverwood Estate structure. $19.90 NZ characters to the Regional Reserves Mornington 3-5 $19.90 NZ youthful nose with a Marlborough Pinot Peninsula Pinot Noir complex, balanced and Noir 2011 HHH 2010 HHHH savoury palate and cherry A leaner, fruit-driven style Good example of a fruit showing through. with a spicy, savoury pinot. Subtle, spicy/ nose, and soft and earthy nose and 5+ $24.55 flavoursome in the mouth. mouthfilling, spicy oak Saint Clair Family 3-5 $23.99 NZ flavours. It’s soft, has Estate Vicar’s Choice length, weight and Marlborough Pinot intensity. 3-5 $20 Noir 2011 HHH1/2 Selaks Reserve A well-made wine with Central Otago Pinot some gamey/stalky, Noir 2011 HHH strawberry aromas Soft cherry aromas and and rich, flavoursome jammy sweet cherry palate with savoury flavours with good tannins. $22.50 NZ acid/tannin balance. 3-5 $23.99 NZ74 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

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PINOT NOIRPalliser Estate PINOT NOIR Mission Estate Spy Valley Cannibal CreekMartinborough $25 - $30 Reserve Marlborough Pinot Port Philip Pinot2009 HHHH Martinborough Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH Noir 2010 HHHHSmells earthy and 58 TASTED Noir 2011 HHHH Toasty bouquet with Quite an earthy nose -showing some pleasant, 42 AWARDED Bright lifted nose that aromas of Maraschino subtle and slightly spicy.cocoa notes. Powerful smells of sour cherries cherries and lingering, Good depth and lengthhit of the cocoa In this price range we with a generous well- spicy/savoury flavours. of varietal flavours withcharacters on the long see more consistency structured palate, Good concentration of good tannin length andand well-balanced and higher scores slightly stewed fruit and fruit and toasty oak. structure. $28palate. 3-5 $20 across the board. Lots good level of oak tannin Finishes well. 5+ of complex sweet fruit, support. $25 NZ $29.95 NZEradus Wines appropriate use of oakAwatere Valley Pinot and lingering length Ara Select BlocksNoir 2010 HHH1/2 of flavour. “We are Marlborough PinotA lively, clean, spice- starting to see some Noir 2011 HHHHdriven wine moving into flesh in these wines,” Quite a funky, cherryits second phase. Has commented one judge. bouquet. Good palatelots of oak and some structure with lovelycherry notes showing fruit flavours that arethrough. $24.95 developing nicely and showing nice savouryMount Brown notes. 3-5Waipara Valley Pinot $29.99 NZNoir 2010 HHH1/2Earthy, varietal aromasand a nicely structuredpalate loaded withspicy red fruit flavours.Good all round wine. 3-5 $24.99Tussock Nelson Lawson’sPinot Noir 2010 HHH Dry Hills Pinot NoirRestrained smoky bacon Devil’s Staircase 2010 HHHHaromas and a silky- Central Otago Pinot Intense concentration ofsmooth, classy, varietalpalate. $24 NZIsabel Vineyard Noir 2011 HHHH strawberry-like aromasMalborough Pinot A powerful style that’s with good level of oak.Noir 2009 HHH savoury and earthy on Classy palate with rich oakSlightly sour, cherry-like the complex nose with a and fruit flavours. Veryaromas and subtle, toasty/ floral lift. Juicy and earthy well made. 5+ $28spicy edge to the red in the mouth with a bigberry palate. $22.99 NZ hit of oak. 3-5 $25 Ballasalla Wines Central Otago PinotMount Brown Paul Conti Medici Mission Estate Catalina Sounds Noir 2010 HHHHWaipara Valley Pinot Ridge Western Reserve Central Marlborough Pinot A powerful oaky lift to theNoir 2009 HHH Australia Pinot Noir Otago Pinot Noir Noir 2010 HHHH nose and an abundanceSweet, earthy, 2011 HHHH1/2 2011 HHHH Jubey fruit aromas of varietal fruit on thestrawberry bouquet and Fresh, minty characters Lovely aromatic layered with toasty oak. developing palate all welllong, flavoursome, spicy, mingle with spicy oak strawberry-like fruit nose Subtle, elegant but lively supported by some firmearthy palate. Drink and cherry fruit aromas. and sweet, generous oak. 3-5 $29 NZnow. $24.99 The palate is firm and fruit on the silky palate powerful with lots of with good balance pinot fruit flavours with oak depth and very ripe, between the oak and sweet tobacco and spicy- varietal fruit flavours. firm tannins. $25 NZ like layers. 3-5 $27 3-5 $25JUDGES Ian Leamon Steven Paul Robert Paul Winemaker and Champagne Manager for Oakdene Proprietor of Vintager Importer. Principal of Wines. Completed AWRI Winemaking Services. Leamon Estates in Bendigo. and WSET Advanced Formerly, senior consultant Has vintaged with Brown Wine Assessment for Wine Network Australia. Brothers, Best’s Great Certificates. Judge at Was the chief winemaker Western, Arrowfield (NSW) Victorian wine show and for Montrose/Craigmoor and experience with Veuve associate at Geelong, Mudgee for 11 years and Cliquot and Joseph Loriot- Ballarat and Cairns. also worked for Wyndham Pagel in Champagne. Estate, Chapel Hill, Coriole and Amberton.76 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

varietal tastingOutlook Hill Saint Clair FamilyVineyard Gold Leaf Estate PremiumYarra Valley Pinot Marlborough PinotNoir 2010 HHHH Noir 2011 HHH1/2A firmer, riper style Turkish Delight andwith a toasty, earthy strawberries on thebouquet and showing nose with a medicinalKirsch-like notes. “A note. Soft in the mouthtouch of mystery,” to with lots of sweet fruit.the minty, dark fruitpalate! 3-5 $29 3-5 $26.50 NZNobilo Icon Soho WhiteMarlborough Pinot Collection PinotNoir 2009 HHHH Noir 2011 HHH1/2A lovely, bright lift of Slightly earthy aromasberries on the nose and and an oak-driven palatea reasonable intensity with good fruit structureand concentration of and firm tannin. Stillsweet ripe, varietal fruit young. Will blossom.flavours on the palate. 3-5 $26.99 NZ 3-5 $26.99 Old Kent River Frankland River Pinot Noir Wither Hills 2011 HHH1/2 Marlborugh Pinot Aromatic Kirsch-like Noir 2010 HHHH aromas. Palate is dense, Quite a woody nose - full and weighty with smells spicy and licorice- lovely structure and like. Powerful palate texture. 3-5 $28 - lots of oak, some red fruits and crisp acid Konrad Wines definition. $29.99 Marlborough Pinot Clifford Bay Noir 2011 HHH1/2 Marlborough Pinot Lifted lolly-sweet Noir 2011 HHH1/2 varietal fruit nose and Smells of cherries, a rich, ripe and fleshy raspberries and cloves. palate with some sappy Savoury oak-derived notes around the edges. flavours, some cherry fruit and good level of 3-5 $28.95 acidity. $25Wither Hills Forrest Marlborough Brennan Wines B2Taylor River Pinot Noir Central Otago PinotMarlborough Pinot 2011 HHH1/2 Noir 2010 HHH1/2Noir 2008 HHHH A big, powerful pinot Deep colour, generousDusty, earthy nose with good depth and aromas and big,with some Turkish length of ripe plum fruit, powerful flavours. GoodDelight-like elements. well balanced by the acid sweet, minty, plumLong and interesting and tannins. A keeper. varietal fruit profile.palate showing goodcomplexity of varietal 5+ $25 NZ 3-5 $25 NZfruit and oak. $52 CD Greenhough Nelson Pinot Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Clean, young aromatics and long, intense, sweet, cherry flavours with good level of acidity. Youthful and simple. $26 NZ Martin Williams MW Meg Brodtmann MW Master of Wine, Australia’s first female MW. winemaking consultant Founder of winemaking and pinotphile. consultancy, Southern Winemaker for Cross Wines. Has overseen Caledonia Australis winemaking projects for and Metier Wines. Vina Morande (Chile), Has judged at all major South America. Educator capital city wine shows and trainer for WSET (Wine and some regional ones. & Spirit Education Trust). November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 77

PINOT NOIRPlantagenet Mount Wise Vineyards Trout Valley Royal Main DivideBarker Pinot Noir Porongurup Pinot Wulff Nelson Pinot Tehau Reserve2010 HHH1/2 Noir 2011 HHH Noir 2009 HHH Waipara Pinot NoirObvious oak on the A firm, well-structured Light cherry 2008 HHHH1/2nose with nice fruit style. Good volume aromas and simple Chocolaty/mocha noseunderneath. Quite of varietal aromas and cherry flavours with with some very ripe,medicinal and minty on flavours, and oak in toasty oak underneath. but not overdone,the palate with some support. 3-5 $28 jammy fruit characters.jammy fruit. $27 3-5 $27.99 Long, voluptuous Barrister’s Block palate rich with sweetCannibal Creek Port Adelaide Hill Pinot 8 Ranges Central flavours. Quite tannicPhillip Pinot Noir Noir 2010 HHH Otago Pinot Noir with a lingering finish.2009 HHH1/2 An intense, savoury 2009 HHH“A ‘serious’ wine,” style - sound but simple Youthful, cherry- 5+ $32.95 NZaccording to one with earthy, sweet, like aromas and an Growers Markjudge, with oak-derived varietal fruit characters. attractive, funky/feral Garry Neillaromas and stalky, palate. “Many will love Marlborough Pinotminty, varietal fruit 3-5 $25 this!” $29.95 NZ Noir 2011 HHHH A simple, oak-drivenflavours. 3-5 $28 Herbert Mount Foxes Island By pinot showing hints of Gambier Pinot Noir John Belsham plum and blackberry fruitLawson’s 2010 HHH Marlborough Pinot characters, and supportedDry Hills Pinot Noir Concentrated and Noir 2008 HHH by a firm and grippy2009 HHH1/2 powerful wine with big Loads of varietal tannic backbone. $30Earthy, blackberry-like hit of fruit well matched fruit on both the nose Vidal Reserve Seriesbouquet and a firm and by the oak. 5+ $25 and palate. Some Saint Clair Family Marlborough Pinotchewy palate loaded maturity developing. Estate Pioneer Noir 2011 HHHHwith intense, sweet, Fifth Bridge Central Further potential. Block 22 Barn Block Earthy nose withvarietal fruit flavours. Otago Pinot Noir Marlborough Pinot some Five Spice-like 2010 HHH 3-5 $25 NZ Noir 2010 HHHHH characters. Smoky oak 3-5 $28 Smells of berries with A huge, ripe pinot with flavours mingle with Marcus Hill Vineyard lovely lifted bouquet of ripe, sweet fruit on aAkarua Rua Central marzipan hints. Firm, dry, Bellarine Peninsula ripe red plums matched chewy, grippy, tannicOtago Pinot Noir earthy palate. Just needs Pinot Noir 2008 HHH with charry oak. The rich, palate. $31.99 NZ2011 HHH time. 3-5 $26 NZ Developing, earthy, rounded palate offers aClosed nose with raspberry bouquet and wave of powerful varietal Elephant Hill Centralearthy elements. Mud House Central maturing cherry flavours fruit flavours. Excellent Otago Pinot NoirPowerful, chocolaty, Otago Pinot Noir on a long, soft palate. $26 structure. Needs time. 2011 HHHHdark/fruit palate. Has 2010 HHH Lovely, lifted, jubey fruitcellaring potential. Drink young and Miceli Lucy’s 5+ $33.50 NZ bouquet with some be rewarded. Ripe Choice Mornington Waipara Hills sour cherry notes and 5+ $25.50 NZ raspberry fruit – touch Peninsula Pinot Central Otago Pinot good drive of pinot fruit minty. Good flavour Noir 2008 HHH Noir 2010 HHHH1/2 characters on the full,Sacred Hill Halo persistence. $27 Smells earthy and oaky, This wine has huge fleshy palate. $34 NZPinot Noir 2011 HHH and has ripe, chocolaty deep red hues, big, ripe,Soft, cherry nose with Margrain Rivers’ flavours on a firm, oak-driven aromas anda green herbal edge Edge Martinborough drying palate with dusty a very powerful, toasty/and bright fruit notes Pinot Noir 2010 HHH tannins. $26 chocolaty, oak palateon a high acid palate. Oak-driven nose with perfectly matched with hints of strawberry jam PINOT NOIR lovely varietal fruit. 3-5 $25.99 NZ elements. More oak $30 - $35 on the maturing palate. 5+ $30Centennial 49 TASTEDVineyards Unfiltered 3-5 $28 NZ 34 AWARDEDSouthern HighlandsPinot Noir 2011 HHH A strong class but asRestrained, sweet, Rabbit Ranch one judge put it, “handcherry nose and soft Central Otago Pinot on the heart, is it betterpalate with lean, cherry Noir 2010 HHH than the previous class?flavours. 3-5 $27 Soft raspberry aromas Probably not\". But still and good upfront, there are lots of goodAllan Scott Family red fruit flavours on a flavours and well-Winemakers leaner style of palate. balanced characters.Marlborough PinotNoir 2011 HHH 3-5 $29.10Aromas of cherries andstrawberries with a Villa Maria Privatesweet, oaky palate that Bin Central Otagohas length and structure. Pinot Noir 2010 HHH A big wine with lifted 3-5 $28 NZ ripe aromas and flavours showing slightly herbal notes. $29.9978 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

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PINOT NOIR Yealands Estate Crittenden Estate Tamar Ridge Pinot Reserve Awatere Mornington Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Valley Pinot Noir Peninsula Pinot Noir Attractive, floral 2011 HHHH 2010 HHHH characters on the spicy, Aromatic nose - smells Sweet, fruit cake- herbal nose and full, of Turkish Delight. Soft like aromas. Palate fruit-driven palate - and smooth in the mouth exhibits good flavour sweet but not fleshy. with good balance development, length and Firm finish. $30 between the fruit and intensity with excellent Maude Central oak. Some stalky tannins. acid/tannin balance. $34 Otago Pinot Noir Maude Central 2010 HHH1/2 3-5 $34.95 Otago Pinot Noir Young and raw with 2009 HHHH rich dark fruit, some 8 Ranges Pinot Noir Fragrances of the forest black olive characters, 2010 HHHH floor scattered with nicely balanced by the Pungent fruit aromas violets! It tastes of silky tannins and brisk - slight strawberry-like raspberries and vanilla, acidity. $32 NZ characters. Firm palate and has a silky, tannic Babich Winemakers’ with lots of oak. “Classy backbone. $32 NZ Reserve Marlborough and polished,” according Vavasour Pinot Noir 2011 HHH to one judge. $32 NZ Awatere Valley A good wine in the stalky Marlborough Pinot green fruit spectrum with Bellarine Estate Noir 2011 HHH1/2 a warming alcohol finish. Phil’s Festish Sweet cherry nose with Geelong Pinot Noir a floral lift and sweet/ 3-5 $30 NZ 2010 HHHH sour cherry-like flavours. Singlefile Wines Nose has hints of Palate is clean and Denmark Pinot Noir earthiness and some fresh with good tannins. 2011 HHH licorice characters. Developing, oaky Plenty of interest on 3-5 $30 aromas with strong oak the dry, savoury palate Esk Valley hiding the fruit. Some with some firm tannins. Marlborough Pinot attractive mintiness. $30 Noir 2011 HHH1/2 Thornbury Central 3-5 $32 Plums, earth and oak Otago Pinot Noir on the nose. Attractive 2011 HHH Staete Land cherry cordial-like palate A big, powerful wine with Vineyard Map Maker with plenty of oak. A real earthy, sweet, strawberry Marlborough Pinot crowd pleaser. $31.99 NZ fruit and some nice firm Noir 2010 HHHH Tupari Awatere tannins. $31.99 NZSatisfaction Deep red colour, a subtle Valley 2011 HHH1/2 Saint Clair Familyfrom the very varietal nose and a very A simple, fruit-driven Estate Pioneerfirst ship. flavoursome palate - quite pinot but lovely to drink. Block 4 Sawcut oaky but there’s sweet Bright, youthful, sweet Marlborough PinotLinking Australia with all coasts plum fruit and good red fruits wrapped in Noir 2011 HHHof North and South America; acidity. 3-5 $32.95 silky tannins. $34 Raspberries mingle withthe Caribbean; Northern Europe Baillieu Mornington vanilla oak on the nose.and the Mediterranean; Asia; Saint Clair Family Peninsula Pinot Noir The palate has loads ofIndia; Pakistan; New Zealand Estate Pioneer 2010 HHH1/2 toasty oak and fruitand the Pacific Islands. Block 16 Awatere Developed, toasty/fruity sweetness. $33.50 NZFor more, visit our website. Marlborough Pinot aromas and good length Saint Clair Family Noir 2010 HHHH of sweet fruit on the Estate Pioneer Block No matter what. Dusty oak tends to palate - moving into its 14 Doctor’s Creek dominate the ripe berry second phase of life. Marlborough Pinot www.hamburgsud-line.com aromas. The cherry liqueur Noir 2011 HHH fruit flavours mixed with 3-5 $30 Some complexity on oak sweetness creates Mud House the nose. Chewy, oak- a”flashy” palate. Golden Terraces driven palate shows Vineyard Pinot Noir hints of Kirsch-like 5+ $33.50 NZ 2010 HHH1/2 characters. $33.50 NZ Chunky style with oaky Saint Clair Family smokiness on the nose Estate Pioneer and greenish oak with Block 12 Lone Gum good fruit length on the Marlborough Pinot palate. $30 Noir 2010 HHHH A lifted, savoury/earthy bouquet with tomato vine-like characters on the palate, and the oak adding sweetness and length. A good style. 3-5 $33.50 NZ80 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

varietal tastingSteve Bird PINOT NOIR Auntsfield Estate For almost 25 yearsWinery Big Barrel $35 - $40 Marlborough Pinot Brett & Linda Keeping haveMarlborough Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH1/2 prided themselves in ensuringNoir 2011 HHH 52 TASTED Cool fruit aromas - only the best quality fruitCola-like fruit style 29 AWARDED with subtle fragrancesalready showing of cherry liqueur goes into every bottle ofsome hints of early The judges questioned and Turkish Delight. Two Rivers wines.development with good some of the wines in this Powerful concentrationberry flavours. $34.95 NZ category as to whether of fruit and oak on the TWO RIVERSBrangayne of they were forced or palate with attractive, 2 Yarrawa Rd Denman NSWOrange Pinot Noir extracted and overdone dark licoricey elements.2010 HHH for this mid-range price Ph 02 65 472556An oak-dominated wine bracket. But there were 3-5 $39 NZ Cellar Door open 11am-4pmbut has some fruit the good exceptions! Rockcliffe Winesweight and good tannin Great Southern Pinot 7 days a weekstructure. $30 Highfield Noir 2011 HHHHLethbridge Menage Marlborough Pinot Oaky aromas and long, Come get to know us...a Noir Geelong Pinot Noir 2010 HHHH1/2 attractive, timbery palateNoir 2010 HHH A big, rich and very that tends to subdue the www.tworiverswines.com.auGreat weight and intense wine. Good fruit/ sweet varietal fruit but isintensity with upfront, oak combination on the an easy-drinking style ofsweet, varietal fruit nose and a fleshy, showy pinot. $35showing slight stewed palate with dense sweetcharacters. $30 up-front fruit flavours andWignalls Albany bright youthful acidity.Western AustraliaPinot Noir 2010 HHH 3-5 $38 NZA leaner, savoury styleof pinot with cherrysourness on the noseand an earthy, tobaccopalate. $31Ra Nui Wairau ValleyMarlborough PinotNoir 2010 HHHLight herbal fruitnose with lots of oak.Vibrant palate; not tooripe - not too green. 3-5 $31.99d’ArenbergThe Feral Fox PinotNoir 2010 HHH Bimbadgen RegionsEarthy, herbal aromas and Tasmania Pinot Noircomplex, savoury palate 2011 HHHH- lean and firm in the Charry oak and darkmouth. 3-5 $32 berries mix together on the nose, and the hot,Mt Aspiring Wines Ceres Composition brambly palate is very36 Bottles Central Central Otago Pinot ripe and chewy withOtago Pinot Noir Noir 2009 HHHH1/2 good flavour attack.2010 HHH Very attractive, varietallyClosed nose not giving correct aromas, and a 3-5 $39much away with intense supple and harmonious Robert Oatleyflavours, firm tannins palate with varietally pure, Finisterre Denmarkand high acidity. spicy, red fruit flavours Pinot Noir wrapped in silky tannins 2011 HHHH 5+ $32 NZ and vanilla oak. $38 NZ Bright, aromatic, cherry bouquet and lively, oakyBream Creek palate - quite lean butTasmania Pinot Noir interesting. Has length2010 HHH and weight and someFragrant, oak-driven nice chalky tannins.bouquet and alean, slightly earthy 5+ $36.99European style ofpalate. 3-5 $34 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 81

PINOT NOIRWoollaston Muddy Water Rapaura Springs Herbert Barrel PINOT NOIRNelson Pinot Noir Waipara Pinot Noir Vineyard Reserve Number 1 Mount $40 - $502011 HHHH 2011 HHHH Central Otago Pinot Gambier Pinot NoirLight, toasty oak edges Raw, earthy nose with Noir 2011 HHH1/2 2010 HHH 40 TASTEDto the lovely, dark cherry a slight herbal edge. Perfumed nose with A seductive crowd pleaser 28 AWARDEDnose. Attractive, cherry Intense fruit palate a floral note and an with fruit in the cherry There were some greatfruit palate layered with with good tannins and acid-dominated palate spectrum, sweet oak and wines here but also somecaramelly oak and fine, lovely, silky-smooth - bright and fresh, and velvety tannins. $37 pretenders. Lots of oakelegant tannins. $35 NZ mouthfeel. Has potential. sweet in the middle. Chard Farm River and ripe fruit but a lack ofAkarua Central Run Central Otago finesse among the others.Otago Pinot Noir 5+ $39.95 3-5 $39 NZ Pinot Noir 2010 HHH2011 HHHH Pooley Coal River Spicy, raspberry nose WoollastonJubey, sweet, dark Pinot Noir Derwent Estate with green herbal Mahana Pinot Noirfruit bouquet. Good 2011 HHH1/2 Wines Tasmania touches and fresh, 2011 HHHHHdepth of oak on the Spicy, cherry fruit nose Pinot Noir light-bodied, strawberry Gorgeous, dark berryfull-on, dry, savoury and a lovely fresh and 2010 HHH1/2 palate. $38 bouquet with somepalate with good tannin lively palate with good A generous style of pinot Ellero Pisa Terrace prominent, spicy oak.structure and weight. varietal fruit ripeness with a juicy, dark fruit Central Otago Pinot The lovely palate and flavour. $36 CD nose and powerful, black Noir 2010 HHH is fleshy, dark and 3-5 $39.90 NZ olive and red berry fruit Tarry aromas and firm, deep, and full of long, palate. 3-5 $36 oaky palate with minty, lingering, flavours ofRockcliffe Wines raspberry fruit and silky cocoa oak, plum-like fruitPinot Noir Toolangi Estate tannins. $38 NZ and jelly crystals. $45 NZ2010 HHHH Yarra Valley Pinot Muddy Water Dunnolly ParishEarthy, forest floor Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Waipara Pinot Noir Family Estatebouquet and a long, A varietally pure, 2010 HHH Waipara Pinot Noirelegant and well- harmonious wine Dark, brooding style 2011 HHHHstructured palate with with generous meaty/ loaded with flavour, good Very interesting winespicy varietal fruit, silky raspberry fruit characters, tannic grip and a nice, - ripe but with sometannins and good level of chalky tannins and clean clean finish. $39.95 NZ restraint - very Turkishacidity. $35 finish. $38 Fromm La Strada Delight-like. Has gentle Marlborough Pinot tannins and warmingGiesen The Brothers Cable Bay Vineyards Noir 2009 HHH alcohol. Lots of potential.Marlborough Pinot Central Otago Pinot Minty, leafy bouquet andNoir 2010 HHHH Noir 2011 HHH nicely-textured palate 3-5 $40 NZA spicy, sweet, raspberry Light lift of savoury - flavours of red fruits Mondillo Centralbouquet and attractive, fruit on the nose and and mint. Firm tannins. Otago Pinot Noirstewed fruit characters silky-smooth palate with 2011 HHHHon the palate with good obvious oak sweetness. 3-5 $35 Smells of oak andlength of acidity to give Clos Marguerite liniment! More menthol-support. $39 NZ 3-5 $35 Pinot Noir 2009 HHH like characters coming Some earthiness to the through on the intenseChanters Ridge Back Greylands Ridge Nanny Goat stewed fruit aromas and complex palate. “APaddock Macedon Central Otago Pinot Vineyard Central with feral/jammy deceptive wine!” $42 NZRanges Pinot Noir Noir 2011 HHH1/2 Otago Pinot Noir flavours and velvety2005 HHHH A lift of cherry liqueur- 2011 HHH tannins. $36 NZA complex number like aromas and a long, Lean, smoky nose and Highfieldthat has the works - dense and weighty lean, oak-driven palate Marlborough Pinotjubey berry fruit, lovely palate that’s sweet in that shows power Noir 2009 HHHcreamy oak, excellent without heaviness. Oak dominant style -tannin structure and slightly closed nose.some interesting meaty 3-5 $36 Attractive, spicy,notes. $35 CD strawberry flavours and the middle and has a dry Scott Base Central warming finish. $38 NZ finish. 3-5 $35 NZ Otago Pinot Noir Coal Pit Tiwha Pinot 2011 HHH Noir 2010 HHH STAR RATINGS  Earthy bouquet with “Smells like jelly a whiff of dark berries. crystals,” and has a rich,Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Chunky palate has fruit palate with toastyexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. ripe, medicinal fruit. oak and a long, suppleAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry finish. $39.99professionals and are compared in peer 3-5 $36 NZclasses by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Oakdene Peta’sa major mail-order business. Single VineyardCD Cellar door price. Bellarine PeninsulaCDO Cellar door only. Pinot Noir 2010 HHHSO Sold out. Savoury, spicy aromas$N/A Price not available at time of printing. and a complexity of Contact information pg 160. powerful, dark fruit cake- like flavours. $35 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au82 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

‘Barrel &oak alternativesto the stars’ 1b Oldsmobile Terrace, Dudley Park, SA 5008 Phone: (08) 8340 5480 Fax: (08) 8340 5481Email: ncatt@internode.on.net Mobile: 0418 832 967 (Nigel Catt) RADOUX DISTRIBUTORSNSW (Hunter Valley) – Cameron Webster – 0415 406 596NSW – Vinitech (MIA) – (02) 6962 9217 VIC – Williams & Jackson (03) 5278 7888QLD – Tony Zanata – 0407 912 550 WA – Castle Rock Logistics (08) 9759 1888

PINOT NOIRSurveyor Thomson Soho McQueen Pinot Villa Maria Craggy Range Te Amisfield CentralCentral Otago Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH Cellar Selection Muna Road Vineyard Otago Pinot NoirNoir 2010 HHHH A big wine with different Marlborough Pinot Martinborough Pinot 2010 HHHEarthy, forest floor aromas more like Lantana. Noir 2010 HHHH Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Leafy, herbal characterscharacters on the nose Lightly flavoured palate A complex nose of Earthy, barnyard-like mingle red fruits andand lovely, bright, crisp, with green fruit edge. Has licorice and spice. aromas and a lively, some excellent, supplevarietal fruit palate with a potential to improve with Velvety smooth in spicy palate showing tannins. $40perfumed lift to the cherry age. 3-5 $43.99 NZ the mouth with bright some greenness and D’Angelo Bernardinofruit flavours. $40 NZ Ara Resolute chewy fruit, supple supported by velvety Reserve Port Phillip Single Vineyard tannins and moderate tannins. $42.95 NZ Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Marlborough Pinot acidity. $49.99 Baillieu Myer “Friendly”, oak- Noir 2011 HHHH Clos Henri Elgee Park Family dominated style with Bright, jubey, sweet, Marlborough Pinot Reserve Mornington some barnyardy touches raspberry aromas and an Noir 2009 HHHH Peinsula Pinot Noir and strawberry jam-like elegant palate that’s alive Smoky, herbal aromas 2010 HHH1/2 fruit. $40 and youthful with lovely, and a complex, well- A generous style with Greenhough Hope oak/fruit integration balanced palate with developing strawberry Vineyard Nelson and some mintiness. bright young pinot fruit, fruit, some cola-like Pinot Noir 2010 HHH smoky oak and silky- notes, vanillin oak and Spicy, wood aromas and 3-5 $49.99 NZ smooth tannins. $42 NZ silky tannins. $45 supple, mid-weight palate. Rockburn Central Rockburn Central Rapaura Springs Spicy, red fruit flavours. Otago Pinot Noir Otago Pinot Noir LTD Release Central Good tannins. $40 NZ 2010 HHHH 2011 HHH1/2 Otago Pinot Noir Spring Vale Cherry berry nose with Nose is a nice mix of dark 2011 HHH Freycinet Coast violet fragrances. Dense cocoa, oak and cherries. Fresh, lively and youthful Pinot Noir 2010 HHH palate with Cherry Soft and chewy in the wine with rich, cherry/ Very perfumed bouquet Ripe-like flavours, some mouth with restrained plum fruit and oaky and silky-smooth, savouriness and lovely, fruit development. highlights. $45 NZ lightweight palate with silky tannins. $45 drying, tannic finish. $40 3-5 $45 Winestate 2013 Best of the West. Don’t miss this public wine tasting featuring over 500 of the very best wines from Western Australia. Friday 25 January, 2013 6.00pm – 8.30pm Terrace Ballroom at Hyatt Regency Perth Email sales@winestate.com.au for tickets HYATT REGENCY PERTH 99 Adelaide Terrace Perth Western Australia 600084 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

varietal tastingCloudy Bay Felix’s Vineyard Spring Vale PINOT NOIR Judge Rock CentralMarlborugh Pinot Awatere Valley Freycinet Coast $50 - $70 Otago Pinot NoirNoir 2010 HHH Marlborough Pinot Pinot Noir 2009 HHH 2010 HHHHVery ripe, jubey, sweet Noir 2010 HHH Some rhubarb-like 35 TASTED Powerful, young, varietalfruit edged with forest Oak-dominant wine characters on the 22 AWARDED fruit here with a rich,floor elements and giving it a chocolaty nose and a strawberry complex, berry nose andsmoky oak. Lovely acid character which melds conserve palate. Good This tasting can be spicy, cherry flavoursfinish. $44.90 with the stewed/jammy food wine. $40 divided into two sections with grainy tannins andBrennan Wines fruit. $45 Surveyor Thompson - the consistent quality good acidity. $50 NZGibbston Valley Domaine Faively 1er Central Otago Pinot wines but too many of Home HillPinot Noir 2010 HHH Cru de Le Clos du Noir 2009 HHH the big, extracted ones Kelly’s ReserveA big, rich, deep purple Roy Burgundy Pinot Barnyardy characters that were dry red in Tasmania Pinot Noirpinot with forest floor- Noir 2010 HHH to the nose and silky- character rather than 2010 HHHHlike fruit characters, Smooth, supple wine smooth palate with varietal. “Bigger is not “Flowing and classy,”drying tannins and fresh with lolly-sweet fruit, complex flavours and always better in pinot,” said one judge. It’s silkyacidity. $45 NZ spicy oak and velvety firm tannins. $40 NZ commented one judge. smooth in the mouthDomain Road tannins. $48 Pipers Brook Estate with clean, lifted, sweet,Vineyard Central Villa Maria Reserve Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Spy Valley Envoy cherry fruit and oakOtago Pinot Noir Marlborough Pinot Medium bodied wine; Outpost Pinot Noir sweetness. $502010 HHH Noir 2010 HHH plenty of earthy/licorice/ 2010 HHHH1/2 Maude ReserveChocolaty/dark fruit A big wine with typical raspberry characters. An interesting, rich, Mt Maude Vineyardnose and similar palate varietal, barnyardy Sour acidity and firm ruby red wine - very Pinot Noirwith tangy acid and fine, characters on the nose tannins. $42 tasty with an abundance 2010 HHHHsavoury tannins. $45 NZ and drying, red fruit palate. The Aurora Vineyard of bright varietal fruit, Interesting aromas ofPooley Butchers Hill Bendigo Central well matched by some prosciutto, fennel andPinot Noir 2010 HHH 3-5 $49.99 NZ Otago Pinot Noir nicely handled oak and raspberries. Palate isSour, almost gherkin-like 2007 HHH an attractive, overall crisp and bright. Goodaromas and interesting, Cherry Ripe aromatics earthiness. $55 NZ structure with tomatoearthy palate - some with meaty notes. Very fruit-like flavours. $55 NZmocha overtones. $45 CD clean, pure, varietal fruit palate. Firm finish. $40Exporting wine to Asia?Find it all a bit confusingand very onerous? WINE INDUSTRY CONSULTANTSWith 25 years experience in the Wine Industry we specialise in organisingshipments of wine to Asia along with all the necessary documentation.We also source wines and create Buyers Own Brands for overseas clients.In the last 7 years we have organised on behalf of our clients, the shipmentof over 300 containers of wine to China as well as wine shipments to:Hong Kong, Singapore, Korea, Taiwan, USA, UK, and Denmark.If we can be of assistance, please Contact:DAN TRAUCKI – Director and founder of Wine Assist Pty Ltd.Phone/Fax: +61 8 8382 4920 E mail dan@wineassist.com.auMobile: +61 (0)408 801 795 Visit our web site www.wineassist.com.au November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 85

PINOT NOIRAuntsfield Estate Maude Reserve Pooley Butchers Chard Farm Mata-au Domaine BrunoRoad Ridge Mt Maude Vineyard Hill Coal River Central Otago Pinot Clair MarsannayMarlborough Pinot Pinot Noir Tasmania Pinot Noir Noir 2009 HHH Le Grasses TeteNoir 2010 HHHH 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 Interesting, farmyardy/ BourgogneA classy, ripe, crimson A lovely interplay between Lift of raspberry bon-bon- licorice nose with lovely 2009 HHHHpinot with nice varietal the classy oak and very like aromas. Big, bright sour cherry and bacon Oaky, licorice aromascharacters of licorice and bright, spicy/cherry varietal and clean jubey fruit flavours. $53 with oak dominatingraspberry on the nose fruit supported with a palate - long and smooth the silky palate. Sweetand the smooth palate. drying, tannic backbone. in the mouth. $60 CD Tertini Southern fruit underneath. “WillFresh acidity. $59 NZ Highlands Pinot Noir come around with time,”Craggy Range 3-5 $55 NZ Borrodell 2009 HHH suggested one judge. $82Calvert Vineyard Muddy Water Slow Orange Pinot Noir A well-made wine withBannockburn Hand Waipara Pinot 2004 HHH1/2 stalky, green aromas and Lowburn FerryCentral Otago Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH “Old but by no means spicy, raspberry flavours. The FerrymanNoir 2010 HHHH A riper style. Savoury dead,” said one Chalky tannins. $55 Reserve CentralDelicious! Chocolaty aromas with a touch of judge. Still had life Otago Pinot Noirnose with stewed blackberries. The oak and structure, and is Lethbridge Mietta 2010 HHH1/2berry touches. Oak sweetness fills out the beautifully smooth and Pinot Noir 2008 HHH Beautiful, savoury,prominent on the long, palate but there’s also round in the mouth. $60 A complex, woody wine varietal fruit withfull palate. Lovely some sweet plums. Christiansen with decent length and great oak to balancevarietal flavours and Drying tannins. $65.95 NZ Longwood Adelaide simple, sweet, varietal and velvety tannins.silky tannins. $59.95 NZ Villa Maria Hills Pinot Noir fruit characters. $65 “All good,” was oneMuddy Water Hare’s Single Vineyard 2010 HHH comment. $85 NZBreath Waipara Pinot Seddon Pinot Noir A very “showy”, well- PINOT NOIRNoir 2009 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 made, oak-driven wine $70 - $100 Chard FarmToasty, chocolaty Smooth, supple, low with rich fruit aromas The Viper Centralaromas overshadow acid wine. Hints of and minty flavours. $50 16 TASTED Otago Pinot Noirthe ripe fruit characters mint and licorice on the Spy Valley Envoy 11 AWARDED 2009 HHH1/2and tend to dominate nose. Minty, raspberry Pinot Noir 2010 HHH Interesting leafy/savourythe palate. Nice fruit flavours with floral Very tangy, cherry/ Very disappointing nose - touch of licorice.sweetness and lovely overtones. $55.99 NZ red currant fruit and for the price! Too Palate is sweet andtannins. $54.95 NZ Villa Maria Single very fine tannins all many extracted wines fresh with good level of Vineyard Taylor’s supported by the crisp which detracted from savoury tannins. $70 Pass Pinot Noir acidity. $55 NZ the quality of the end 2010 HHH1/2 Judge Rock Pinot result. Again, the Pegasus Bay Prima Smells of cherries and Noir 2009 HHH judges emphasised that Donna Waipara raspberries with a touch Strawberry jam aromas sometimes less is more Valley Pinot Noir of mintiness. Good mix with dried herbs. with this variety. 2009 HHH1/2 tannin support to the Lean palate - good oak/ A very modern style. pastille, sweet, blueberry fruit integration. $50 NZ Valli Waitiki Nice floral aspect to palate. $55.99 NZ Vineyard North the nose. Good balance Quealy Seventeen Central Otago Pinot of cherry/vanilla, oak Rows Mornington Noir 2010 HHHH1/2 flavours and silky Peninsular Pinot All earthy and dark with tannins. 3-5 $84 Noir 2010 HHH1/2 varietal fruit aromas. A Spicy, tobacco-like very young, but nicely Domaine Leflaive & aromas with a lovely, balanced palate with Associés Monthelie perfumed lift. Quite dark, forest floor flavours, 1er Cru Bourgogne a different palate - cocoa oak and cherry cola 2009 HHH1/2 very herb-like - very characters. $75 NZ A lovely food wine interesting. $50 - very fruity with an Muddy Water Valli Gibbston exotic, perfumed Hare’s Breath Vineyard Central character. Not complex Waipara Pinot Noir Otago Pinot Noir but very good none-the- 2010 HHH1/2 2010 HHHH less. 3-5 $90 Subtle savouriness to Dense, firm and the complex aromas. complex with pungent, Paringa Estate Dense palate - good earthy aromas and long, The Paringa weight with savoury, youthful palate. Very MorningtonTamar Ridge Kayena varietal flavours and jubey fruit flavours, firm Peninsula Pinot NoirVineyard Reserve a smooth, tannin tannins and strong oak. 2009 HHH1/2Tasmania Pinot Noir backbone. $54.95 Lovely deep red2009 HHHH 3-5 $75 NZ wine showing ripeGood depth of mulberry- berry aromas and alike aromas with a slightly powerful, jubey, fruitgreen edge. Lively, tannic palate with warmingpalate - lots of oak and alcohol. 3-5 $90 CDfruit suppleness. Goodfinish. 5+ $6086 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

GANTLEY'S RESTAURANT Arthur's Point Road, Queenstown Ph: +64 3 442 8999 Fax: +64 3 442 7007 Email: gantleys@xtra.co.nz Website: www.gantleys.co.nzA pioneering landmark from the 1860s, Gantleys was built as a wayside inn for Central Otago gold miners. Its charming stone building, two acres of landscaped gardens and mountain scenery make it a special place worth visiting. Originally it was known as the Sportsmans Arms and its first owner was Patrick Gantley, Queenstown’s first policeman. When he passed away his niece took over the tavern and renamed it Gantleys. Current owners, Sommelier, Brent Rands, and Head Chef, Jared Aldridge, pride themselves on Gantleys’ international reputation as one of New Zealand’s premium restaurants and their award winning wine list. Brent says, “Our style of management is to train and empower our staff to provide the best possible dining experience for our customers. This means knowledgeable, friendly and unobtrusive service.” Gantleys offers contemporary New Zealand cuisine using fresh, regional produce and has New Zealand’s most Awarded Wine list. They have won an Award of Excellence from New York magazine Wine Spectator every year since 1996, and the highest award of 5 Decanters (5 stars) ‐ one of only 12 restaurants nationwide – in the New Zealand Wine List of the Year Awards for two years running. Brent, who is passionate about wine, was a semi‐finalist in the national Sommelier of the Year competition. He says, “The art of the sommelier is to recommend the perfect wine to suit the menu choices and palate of the customer. Enjoy a culinary and sensory journey at Gantleys and try their popular Degustation Menu, an amazing 6 courses, each one carefully matched to wine to get the most out of the exciting lavours in your mouth. The ambiance at Gantleys is sophisticated and elegant.  Gantleys creates a romantic setting with white linen, crystal stemware and candlelight. The furnishings reflect the goldrush days, but with a contemporary feel of the fabrics and wrought iron work. The exposed stone interior and exterior walls, soft lighting, a huge fireplace in the dining room and attractive bar area enhance this cosy environment. The wine library tucked away beside the bar is complete with a crystal chandelier, comfortable leather armchairs, and antique oriental rug is an ideal place to sample port and cheese after dinner. Gantleys can cater to private dining and functions for up to 100 guests. They can also set the stage for a beautiful, intimate garden ceremony for a summer outdoor wedding. Come to Gantleys and cherish a piece of Queenstown’s past with a truly memorable dining experience. Courtesy return transport for ả la carte diners from central Queenstown.   

PINOT NOIR Domaine Faively Domain Géantet- Nuits-Saint-George Pansiot Gevrey- Bourgogne 2010 HHH Chambertin Vielles Exotic, spice and oak Vignes Bourgogne bouquet - lightweight, 2010 HHHH jelly/jube palate. Quite A big wine. Charry different from the oak and resinous, rest. $72 cherry bouquet. Evenly textured, oaky Valli Bannockburn palate, some red fruits Vineyard Pinot Noir underneath with a 2010 HHH lean, grippy finish. Very ripe raspberry aromas and sweet, 3-5 $120 stewed plum flavours with drying, tannic Joseph Faiveley spine. $75 NZ Vosne Romanée Bourgogne Auntsfield 2009 HHHH Estate Heritage Savoury style - firm but Marlborough Pinot not drying. Very nutty Noir 2009 HHH aromas with licorice-like Made in the old school fruit flavours spiked Burgundy style with with raspberry fruit. earthy savoury aromas “Very French,” was one and savoury barnyardy comment! $102 palate. $95 NZ Domain Géantet- PINOT NOIR Pansiot Gevrey- $100 + Chambertin Chambolle Musigny 8 TASTED Bourgogne 6 AWARDED 2010 HHH1/2 A fruit bomb! Loads of Import city here! Variation cherry liqueur aromas but freshness and and lovely, red fruit vibrancy shows here with flavours layered with great acid balance. As charry oak and good the judges said: “These acidity. 3-5 $130 wines have elegance and smooth, even texture Domain Géantet- - don’t expect heavy Pansiot Gevrey- bodied wines here.” Chambertin Vielles Vignes Bourgogne Domain Géantet- 2009 HHH1/2 Pansiot Gevrey- Ripe, juicy style with an Chambertin earthy, cherry bouquet Chambolle Musigny and a very stylish, Bourgogne seamless palate 2009 HHHHH loaded with lovely A beautiful, seamlessly varietal fruit. $120 smooth, flowing wine with a bright Cherry Ripe- Pascal Marchland like bouquet. Velvety in Morey-Saint-Denis the mouth with excellent Bourgogne weight of pure varietal 2009 HHH1/2 fruit. Soft on the finish. Very savoury on the nose with a simple, well- 3-5 $130 balanced, ageing, fruit palate. A good wine with lots happening. $14088 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

COP11473TC Great partnerships. Great food, premium wine and good company is a classic combination we all enjoy. Working closely with the premier Australian and New Zealand winemakers is another Classic partnership. Often unseen, we ensure that their best parcels of fruit realise their full potential with the help of our extensive selection of the finest oak barrels. www.classicoakproducts.com

274 TASTED113 AWARDEDCHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGA solid if uninspiring tasting, with too many wines showing simple, Lindauer Specialyouthful characters rather than aged yeast complexity. However, Reserve Blanc decan we really expect a lot for under $30, given the additional Blanc NV HHHH1/2winemaking requirements above those of normal table wine? Just starting to developAs always, there are jewels in virtually every category and lots of some lovely aged leesgood drinking wines! characters on the nose, with nice nuttiness coming through. Palate is a complexity of citrus and nutty/doughy characters with a long, dry finish. $16.99 NZPROSECCO SPARKLING The Wine Society Charles Sturt Yellowglen UNDER $10 Chardonnay Pinot University Perle Pinot Noir4 TASTED Noir NV HHH Tumbarumba Pinot Chardonnay1 AWARDED 5 TASTED Smells of honeycomb and Noir Chardonnay NV HHHHToo many wines here 1 AWARDED citrus. Balanced palate - NV HHHH1/2 Smells a little likeshowing phenolic full of flavour with nicely The earthy, mushroomy Vegemite on toast. Lovelycharacters (pressings) One good example toasty age. $13.99 aromas are edged with aged, nutty-like notes onand with general lack of what can be done attractive toasty lees the well-balanced, citrus-of flavour. with its retained, McPherson Family notes. Full creamy palate driven palate. $19.99 lifted fruit flavours. Vineyards Alexandra that is soft and complex Four SistersSam Miranda McPherson with long, well-balanced Sauvignon BlancKing Valley Prosecco Omni Classic Chardonnay Pinot toasty/nutty/yeasty NV HHH1/22010 HHH Sparkling NV HHH1/2 Noir NV HHH flavours. $19.99 Powerful aged kero/citrus-Subdued green apple Nice perfumed fruit lift Delicate but quite Lindauer Special like characters on thecharacters on the nose to the yeasty nose and developed aromas and Reserve Brut Cuvee nose. Fruity sweet palate;with a pleasant, dryer balanced, tropical/peach well-balanced, nutty palate NV HHHH some toastiness and goodstyle of palate. $25 palate. Some sweetness with good acidity. $12.99 A lovely lift of aromas - acid support. $15.65 and good bead. $7.99 smells nutty and toasty. Four Sisters SPARKLING Palate ageing nicely with Chardonnay Pinot SPARKLING $15 -$20 nutty toasty elements Noir NV HHH1/2 $10 - $15 and a good acid Toasty, yeasty bouquet 32 TASTED backbone. $16.99 - hints of Vegemite. 13 TASTED 17 AWARDED Complex and creamy in 4 AWARDED the mouth with a long, The judges thought nutty finish. $15.65 A few older wines here this quite a solid class Thorn-Clarke that were obviously past for the price. Definitely a Eden Valley Pinot their use by date and step-up from the under Noir Chardonnay lacking flavour or vibrancy. $15 class. Some showed NV HHH1/2 yeast autolysis edges Nose is spicy and Beresford Beacon Hill with good fruit intensity. complex, with nice fruit Brut Cuvee NV HHH Pleasing drinking at lift. Complex, creamy Delicate, citrus/light apple this price. “Watch the palate with vivacious, bouquet. Balanced in the sugar balance,” warned nutty/yeasty flavours. $16 mouth with persistent the judges. bubbles. $11.95 Lindauer Brut Cuvee NV HHH Big, complex, toasty/ yeasty aromas with similar characters on the complex palate. $14.9990 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

varietal tasting Violet by Yealands Estate Marlborough Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc NV HHH1/2 Very aromatic, grassy/ tropical bouquet. Well-balanced palate; obvious varietal characters. Good level of sweetness. $16.95 Jacob’s Creek Trilogy Brut Cuvee NV HHH Restrained nose with hints of toast and Vegemite. Clean and simple, slightly toasty palate. $16.49Te Hana Reserve The Black ChookNew Zealand Sparkling CuveeSparkling Cuvee NV HHHNV HHH1/2 Citrussy aromas andLifted yeasty aromas toasty lees elements.with nice toastiness Similar charactersshowing through. following through to theMedicinal/perfumed crisp palate. $17characters on a long Taylors Bottlepalate. $19.99 Fermented Brut Cuvée Pinot Noir Chardonnay NV HHH Toasty buttery components to the nose and some lean, peach and lemon flavours. $19 Mojo By Rockbare NV Brut Cuvée Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV HHH An attractive, perfumed bouquet and nicely balanced, clean, crisp palate. Easy drinking! $19.95 Society Directors’ Selection King Valley Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier NV HHH A pleasant, elegant, beautifully balanced wine with fresh, crisp, apple/ citrus characters. $19.99Seppelt Salinger Saint Clair FamilySelect Cuvée Estate Vicar’sPinot Noir Choice MarlboroughChardonnay Pinot Sparkling SauvignonMeunier NV HHH1/2 Blanc 2011 HHHQuite meaty and Nice quaffer. Very fresh,savoury on the nose fruit-driven aromas.with some minerality. Nice flavours rangingUpfront sweetness on a between apples andcreamy, buttery palate. limes. $19.50 NZCrisp acid. $19.99 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 91

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGYellowglen Pinot SPARKLING Centennial Squawking MagpieNoir Chardonnay NON-VINTAGE Bowral Pinot Noir SQM Hawke’s Bay2010 HHH $25 & OVER Chardonnay Pinot Blanc de BlancNice fruit elements on Meunier NV HHH1/2 NV HHHthe nose with good level 25 TASTED A fine, well-balanced, Quite a big wine - veryof acidity on the nutty/ 12 AWARDED minerally style with subtle complex - has sometoasty palate. $19.99 peach fruit and some sweetness, flinty A mixed bag. The toasty elements. Light mineral notes andSPARKLING best came from the bead and mousse. $28 creaminess. $29.95 NZNON-VINTAGE cooler regions. “There Burch Family Wines$20 - $25 is a disturbing lack of Gallagher Sparkling Jeté Methode sparkling winemaking Duet Pinot Noir Traditionelle18 TASTED knowledge among some Chardonnay Sparkling White4 AWARDED of these,” said one NV HHH1/2 NV HHH judge. “Too many lacked Honeyed characters Fresh, lifted, chardonnay-Overall the judges Devil’s Corner age and yeast contact.” mingle with apples. driven aromas andfound this group a Tasmania Good yeast influence and balanced, green apple-disappointment. “More Non Vintage Cuvée Bay of Fires age adding complexity. like palate. $30a step down than a step NV HHH1/2 Tasmanian Creamy mouthfeel. $25 Relbia Estateup from the previous Simple citrus nose; Cuvée Pinot Noir Grant Burge Methode Methode Traditionelleclass,” they said. “You some yeast and floral Chardonnay Traditionelle Brut Tasmania Sparklinghad to go looking for the lift. Good creaminess NV HHHH1/2 Blanc de Blancs NV HHHflavour. Sauvignon blanc and slightly sweet but Attractive chardonnay NV HHH Creamy and complex,sparklings are a big call. balanced palate. Tight varietal fruit aromas. Smells of boiled lollies with stylish fruitShould they taste like acidity. $21 Great palate - very and rose petals, with a characters nicelysauvignon blanc?” Harvey River Bridge stylish, long and soft and creamy palate. balanced with yeasty Estate Scarlet seamlessly balanced, Quite developed. $25.95 elements. $30Stone Bridge Wines Ridge Sparkling and full of lovely fruit d’Arenberg DADDTwo Sisters Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot flavours with some good Sparkling BrutPinot NV HHH1/2 Noir NV HHH yeast influence. $36.50 Adelaide HillsGreat nose - quite Attractive citrus fruit Chardonnay Pinotmeaty and savoury with nose with toasty layers. Sittella Methode Noir Pinot Meunieryeasty notes. Creamy Hints of pears and Traditionelle NV HHHin the mouth with crisp apples on a crisp, tart Pemberton Pinot A fine style. Obviousacidity and slight tannic palate. $24.99 Noir Chardonnay chardonnay fruit. Nicefinish. $20 NV HHH1/2 yeast influence. Good A simple, well-made, bead and mousse. $32Sittella Methode well-balanced wine. Centennial LimitedTraditionelle Western Quite appley with some Bowral Blanc deAustralia Chenin toasty/brioche characters Blancs NV HHHBlanc NV HHH1/2 and zingy acidity. $29.95 Definitive AussieAn elegant wine with style with a subduedlovely finesse. Slightly Quartz Reef Methode nose and simple butearthy aromas and nice Traditionelle Pinot structurally sound, well-acid balance giving the Noir Chardonnay balanced palate. $35palate its length. $23 NV HHH1/2 Vinaceous Burlesque Fresh, bright nose Mount Barker with attractive yeasty Western Australia notes. Slightly sweet in Blanc de Blancs the mouth with some NV HHH flavour complexity and A light, fresh, yet depth. $38 complex fruit-driven style. Quite sweet. Nice commercial style. $28JUDGES Trina Smith Alex Trescowthick Jim Smith Senior Sparkling Nepenthe winemaker. Wine education consultant, Winemaker, Treasury Has vintaged in Napa (US) wine writer, lecturer on Estates. Winemaker at and Jura (France) with Champagne for the Comite Brown Brothers for six experience in the Barossa, Interprofessionnel du Vin years. Has completed the Hunter Valley, Adelaide de Champagne (France) Len Evans Tutorial and Hills and Margaret River. and the Champagne judged at the Melbourne, Bureau (Australia). Victorian, Cowra and McLaren Vale wine shows.92 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

varietal tastingSPARKLING Forrest Brigid Yellowglen Vintage Blue Pyrenees Josef ChromyVINTAGE Methode Traditionelle Perle Pinot Noir Methode Traditionelle Tasmania2012 - 2009 Marlborough Chardonnay Midnight Cuvée Pinot Chardonnay 2009 HHH 2008 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay 2008 HHHH28 TASTED Soft and creamy wine Very attractive, creamy, 2008 HHHH Stylish mineral nose5 AWARDED that has good level honeyed nougat nose. Subtle aromas; hints with restrained fruit of complexity and Lifted cracked yeast of toast and almonds. notes and elegant,“One of the worst line- balance. $30 NZ complexity on the Creamy and fleshy in the well-balanced, lemony/ups of sparklings I have perfectly balanced mouth with balancing grapefruit palate with atasted,” said one judge. Woodgate Bojangles palate with pleasant mineral elements. high level of acidity. $40“There were too many Manjimup Pinot Noir Vegemite-like characters, A touch sweet. $29 Padthaway Estatewines far too young to Chardonnay a fine mousse and Eliza Blanc debe released as vintage 2009 HHH lovely acid. $29.99 Blanc Sparklingwines. Apart from youth Nicely aged wine with Chardonnaywithout yeast autolysis, interesting varietal 2008 HHH1/2some were overloaded characters - quite sweet. Huge yeasty lift to thewith sugar resulting in European-like. $30 nose and quite a broad,tired sluggish wines. sweet palate with some SPARKLING attractive toasty charactersSaracen Estates VINTAGE 2008 developing. $35Marée MargaretRiver Chardonnay 28 TASTEDPinot 2009 HHH1/2 11 AWARDEDStill young and freshalthough it has some age The judges agreed thiscomplexity developing group was a definiteand reasonable amount step up. “The best wereof yeast autolysis. $38 the finer styles of wine showing some age development,” said one judge. However, some were still using too much dosage (sugar).” Pipers Tasmania Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2008 HHH Restrained apple- like bouquet and straightforward varietal palate. Simple but well made. $37Borrodell Vineyard Coldstream Hills Seppelt Fleur de Seppelt Salinger Margrain VineyardOrange Pinot Yarra Valley Pinot Lys Pinot Noir Vintage Assemblage La Michelle MethodeMeunier Pinot Noir Noir Chardonnay Chardonnay Première Cuvée Traditionelle PinotChardonnay 2008 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHH Noir Chardonnay2009 HHH Excellently balanced A vivacious, beautifully A well-made wine with 2008 HHHSubtle, pinot influence and well-structured balanced wine with attractive complexity of Some delicate yeaston the candied nose sparkling with a fresh, attractive honey and citrus and yeast aromas complexity to the noseand balanced, creamy slightly nutty nose - lemon sorbet characters and a fine, almost cider- and nicely textured,palate. $35 CD some yeast influence and some zingy like palate. Good toasty complex palate. $38Deviation Road Loftia which follows through acidity. Needs some development. $29.99 Yarrabank DevauxAdelaide Hills Vintage on to the seamlessly more time. $23.99 and Yering StationBrut 2010 HHH layered, flavoursome Sparkling 2008 HHHSimple, young wine palate. $32.99 Smells of pears andbut OK, with nice floral quinces. A well-balancedelements with apple palate with goodskin notes. $34 mousse. $38 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 93

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGHeemskerkCoal RiverValley TasmaniaChardonnay PinotNoir 2008 HHHGood pear and apple-likefruit showing through onthe nose and palate, butnot a lot of age. $59.99SPARKLINGVINTAGE2007 & OLDER23 TASTED11 AWARDEDA mixed bag - the very Mount William Ghost Rock Vineyard Quartz Reef Mount Williamgood, the bad and the Winery S.L.D 11 Catherine Central Methode Winery Macedonugly were all here. “An Years on Lees North Coast Traditionelle Blanc de Blancsimpressive group among Macedon Blanc de Tasmania Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot 2004 HHHHthe recommended wines Blancs 1999 HHHHH 2007 HHHH1/2 Noir 2007 HHHH1/2 A stylish wine - veryshowing lovely yeast Amazingly fresh - smells A lovely style with quite Attractive nose of fresh for an eight-year-autolysis without being like creamy lemon an aromatic nose - it toast, almonds, honey old. Clean, elegantbroad and fat. Quite curd with a dash of smells like honey and and brioche. “Yummy aromas. Long, clean,stylish,” said one judge. spice. Long, developed fresh apples, with some palate,” according to well-balanced palate; palate with honeyed, sorbet-like characters on one judge. Very long and some complexity andDaniel Le Brun bottle aged characters the palate; has a good flavoursome, with nicely good acidity. $45Methode Traditionelle adding complexity and level of dosage. $45 aged characters. Good HeemskerkBlanc de Blancs high level of acidity to Palliser Estate mousse. $45 Coal River2002 HHHHH balance. $100 Methode Traditionelle Nobilo Icon Methode Valley TasmaniaA classic, traditional style Daniel Le Brun Martinborough Traditionelle Hawke’s Chardonnay Pinotwith lovely freshness Platinum Vintage 2007 HHHH1/2 Bay 2007 HHHH Noir 2007 HHH1/2for a 10-year-old wine. Methode Traditionelle A restrained and stylish Lifted strawberry Appley and blossom-likeStonefruits and citrus Marlborough number with very characters on the nose; on the nose. Good fruitfruit characters are 2001 HHHH1/2 attractive, creamy, toasty some bottle development on the palate with nicelayered with nutty age/ Fantastic toasty nose. Palate has good showing through. Nice yeasty notes. Quite a highyeast autolysis elements. complexity to the nose; fruit/acid balance and good balance of strawberry and level of dosage. $59.99Good level of lemony all honey and spice level of yeast autolysis cream fruit, with zingy Yarra Burn Yarraacid to balance. $38 NZ and bottle age. Superb complexity. $48.50 NZ acidity. $28 Valley Pinot Noir citrus palate layered Chardonnay Pinot with nutty, creamy and Meunier 2007 HHH minerally characters. Broad, toasty, Good acid/sweetness chardonnay aromas and a balance. $38 NZ flavoursome, well-aged, balanced palate. $26.99JUDGES Natalie Fryar David Fleming Bill Hardy Chief sparkling winemaker Winemaker for Corporate oenologist for for Yalumba. Natalie’s Scarpantoni Wines. Has Accolade Wines (formerly tastes also extend to the vintaged in California, Constellation). 28 years’ bubbles of ales and lagers Italy, Canada and Hungary. winemaking experience in (as do many sparkling Formerly winemaker places such as McLaren Vale, winemakers!). Regular at Seppeltsfield in the Western Australia and France. sparkling wine show judge. Barossa Valley. Has judged internationally (France and Japan), and been an associate or senior judge at more than 20 state and regional wine shows in Australia.94 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

varietal tastingOld Kent River Moorilla Estate Muse McLaren Vale IIIDiamondtina Series Tasmania Associates SquidPinot Chardonnay Vintage Brut Rosé Ink Sparkling Shiraz2007 HHH 2007 HHHH NV HHHHMuted, fruit-driven nose A classic strawberries and Smells of black olivesand rich, fruity palate. cream nose. Complex and fruit cake, with a bigSome yeast and creamy palate with developed, peppery lift. Lovely oakmousse obvious. $28 smoked/nutty characters base to the flavoursome and a long, acid backbone palate; some earthinessSPARKLING in support. $49 and spices, and firmROSÉ tannins. $55 Yellowglen Vintage Scarpantoni Black34 TASTED Perle Rosé Pinot Tempest Sparkling6 AWARDED Noir Pinot Meunier Shiraz NV HHHH 2006 HHH1/2 A big, rich, juicy wine withGood wines were few Attractive bouquet - great balance betweenand far between here. smells like quinces and the sweetness andMost lacked the flavour rose petals. Palate is the savoury elements.and interest to make the stylish and well-made Lots of plums, tobacco,cut. “There should be with nutty, strawberry prunes and sweet oakmore flavour with the flavours. $29.99 characters. $28pinot,” said one judge.“Too many showed Yarra Burn Yarracork age and a lack of Valley Pinot Noirfreshness and vibrancy.” Chardonnay Rosé 2006 HHH1/2Lindauer Developed yeasty noseRosé NV HHHH and excellent nutty andPersistent bead. Flinty, yeasty palate with goodyeasty nose with a floral acid backbone and alift. Plenty of acid on the lingering finish. $36.50palate with Vegemite-likeyeastiness and some Yellowglensweetness. $12.99 NZ Pink NV HHH Lifted confectionery fruit nose and nicely balanced, yeasty palate with a strawberry lift. $14.99 SPARKLING RED NON-VINTAGE 21 TASTED 11 AWARDEDBurch Family Wines A solid class with very Leconfield WinesJeté Methode few faulty wines, and the Syn Rouge SparklingTraditionelle Rosé judges commented that Shiraz NV HHH1/2NV HHHH there was a dedicated Fruit-driven nose of liftedSmells of ginger nits effort overall to create dark cherries with violetwith some ferment genuine sparkling reds. notes, and an unusual softaromatics. Fantastic “More savoury and and peppery palate. $15minerally palate - very elegant fruit is pleasing, The Black Chookdry and complex, with rather than the older porty Sparkling Shirazcrisp acid length. $30 styles”, said one judge. NV HHH1/2 Leesy plum aromas and Annie’s Lane long, well-integrated, Quelltaler Watervale plum fruit palate with Sparkling Shiraz good balance between NV HHHH sugar and tannins. $17 Oaky nose with olive-like Johnston Adelaide notes. Savoury palate Hills Sparkling Shiraz - rich and sweet but Merlot NV HHH1/2 well-balanced with good Lifted cassis, chocolate firm tannins and nice and licorice bouquet. spiciness. $24.99 Lovely mouthful of sweet plums layered with spicy licorice characters. $18 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 95

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGLou Miranda Estate SPARKLING Paulett Wines Moët & Chandon Veuve ClicquotBarossa Sparkling RED Trillians Polish Hill Rosé Impérial Ponsardin BrutShiraz NV HHH1/2 VINTAGE River Clare Valley Champagne ChampagneA complexity of pepper Sparkling Red NV HHHHH NV HHHH1/2and spice on the nose and 13 TASTED 2008 HHH Attractive nose loaded Very attractive, stylishgood blackcurrant-like fruit Savoury note to the with powerful rose petal and complex champagne.on the peppery palate. 6 AWARDED plum nose with rich, and strawberry fruit Delicate pear/appleGood tannins. $26.95 sweet balance of aromas. Long, perfectly aromas with obvious blackberry and vanilla- balanced palate with chardonnay notes. LovelyTapestry MV Although a consistent like flavours. $20 beautiful fruit characters, grapefruit palate withSparkling Merlot group, the judges great acidity with a lovely mousse. $89NV HHH expected more. Overall Seppelt Original lovely, long, lingering Moët & ChandonEarthy savoury aromas these were riper, yet drier Sparkling Shiraz finish. $99.95 Impérial Brutand quite a tannic palate with stronger oak tannins. 2007 HHH Champagnebut has sweet black fruit Good oak and spice Joseph Loriot-Pagel NV HHHH1/2underneath. $24 Barossa Valley on the nose. Excellent Brut Blanc De Restrained French creamCentennial Estate E&E Barossa tannin, acid, sugar Blancs Grand Cru and crunchy apple aromasBowral Sparkling Sparkling Shiraz balance to the plum Champagne with light honeysuckleShiraz NV HHH 2005 HHH1/2 palate. $24.99 2006 HHHHH notes. A lighter styleSimple, fruit-driven style A lifted, aged, toasty/ A young champagne palate - very long withwith hints of Sarsaparilla earthy nose and tarry, CHAMPAGNE that is both complex and obvious chardonnayon the nose and aniseed earthy palate. Soft and UNDER $100 elegant with good bead flavours and great freshon the palate. $25 sweet with a long, persistence. Intense acidity. $84.95Seppelt Silverband tobacco leaf-like finish. $50 21 TASTED quince-like aromasGrampians Sparkling 18 AWARDED with toasty, honeyed Henri GoutorbeShiraz NV HHH McGuigan Cellar elements. Fine lingering Cuvée PrestigeMeaty notes to the earthy Select Barossa “The strongest line-up palate, a little sweet, Premier Crunose. Good level of spicy, Sparkling Petit of Champagne I have nice nuttiness. $60 Champagnesavoury flavours with Verdot 2011 HHH seen”, said one judge. José Ardinat NV HHHHsome sweetness. $36.99 Quite an oaky/tannic “These are fresher and Millésime Caramelised charactersUlithorne Flamma style with lots of well traveled than in the Champagne Blanc de on the nose with lotsMcLaren Vale attractive spicy plum past. It was great to also Blancs 2004 HHHHH of floral notes. Soft andSparkling Shiraz fruit characters. $20 see some fine Village Huge toasty nose - very round in the mouthNV HHH Houses in the list that complex. Beautiful palate with chardonnay fruitA drier, slightly tannic Rutherglen Estates showed great character.” - lovely mineral elements dominating the palate.style with earthy, spicy Estate Grown Shiraz mingling with the aged Nice acid. $52aromas and good barrel Durif 2010 HHH Delamotte complexity and some Joseph Loriot-Pagelage evident. $38 Fruity aromas with Garam Champagne France fabulous acidity giving it Carte D’Or Marsala-like spicy notes. Brut NV HHHHH plenty of length. $85 Brut Champagne Velvety rich in the mouth A powerful, classical NV HHHH with subtle oak. $27.95 nose of toasted brioche, A fine, simple, under- honey and roasted stated style with a Downing Estate almonds. Buttery, rich, muted floral bouquet Heathcote Sparkling pinot dominated palate. and lovely flavours of Shiraz 2010 HHH Very stylish and refined chardonnay fruit, roasted Nose has hints of plums with lovely layers of nuts and honeyed and savoury notes, and flavour. High level of characters. $52 the chocolate biscuit-like dosage. $69.99 palate is simple and tannic. $28 Françoise Bedel L’Ame de la Terre STAR RATINGS  Champagne Brut 2002 HHHHHThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Still very tight withexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. yeasty, doughy, pear-likeAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry bouquet. Some apple-professionals and are compared in peer like fruit characters stillclasses by three judges. obvious on the intenseCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, and complex palate, witha major mail-order business. lovely yeast finesse.CD Cellar door price. Good mousse. $95CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 160. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au96 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

varietal tastingTendil & Lombardi Champagne Drappier Veuve Clicquot Nestled in the heart of theBlanc de Noirs Brut Brut Blanc de Blancs Ponsardin Brut Barossa Valley, Villa Tinto,Champagne Pinot Champagne Rosé Champagne is a small, family owned andNoir 2008 HHHH NV HHH1/2 NV HHHH1/2Plenty of toasty/yeasty Very complex, Subdued nose but operated winery.aromas - very buttery yeasty bouquet. opens up to lovelyand complex. Excellent Lovely fine bead. Great lolly-like red fruit and We specialize in premium,palate length. Fairly persistence of delicious, quinces with some air. distinctive red wines,sweet, toasty, lemon traditional champagne Gorgeous, creamy palate produced from a singleflavours but with a crisp flavours. $46.99 - a touch sweet withfinish. $69 wonderful mouthfeel vineyard, using the traditionalTendil & Lombardi Christophe and balance. $100 methods of winemaking.Blanc de Noirs Brut Lefevre Mont de Ruinart BlancChampagne Pinot Bonneil Champagne de Blancs Reims +618 85633044Noir NV HHH1/2 Brut NV HHH France Champagne www.villatinto.com.auA fresh, well-made wine Subtle, nutty, doughy NV HHHH1/2full of flavour with a hint nose and slightly oily, A full, rich style ofof tannin grip on the complex, caramelised champagne that’sfinish. $55 toffee palate. $75 layered and complexPol Roger Extra with mouthwateringCuvée De Réserve Tendil & Lombardi flavour freshness,Brut Champagne Blanc de Blancs great overall lengthNV HHHH Brut Champagne and weight, and someA complex, nicely Chardonnay NV HHH lovely restrained mineraldeveloped wine with a Some simple citrus elements. $120rich, toasty and creamy aromas with a light Veuve Clicquotnose, and a long, nuttiness. A flavoursome Ponsardin Reimswell-balanced palate palate - a touch sweet France Champagnewith obvious pinot with a good acid 2004 HHHH1/2characters. $84.95 finish. $55 Gorgeous nose of crèmeFrank Pascal caramel, honey andEquilibre Cuvée Tendil & Lombardi apples. Stylish palatePrestige Champagne Rosé de Saignée - rich and layered, withBrut 2002 HHHH Champagne Pinot flinty mineral charactersBig, rich, gamey/ Noir 2007 HHH and great toastiness.brioche aromas and a Subtle, smoky, strawberry High dosage gives itfull gamey palate that’s nose. Interesting palate - some sweetness. $132long and complex and still fresh with developingintense, with a very fruit characters. $69 SWEETcreamy mousse. $95 SPARKLING Deutz Brut Classic Champagne NV HHH 4 TASTED Light, golden wine with 2 AWARDED nice aged characters apparent and obvious Omni Blue Sparkling pinot fruit elements. $85 Moscato NV HHH1/2 Very Moscato! Sweet CHAMPAGNE fruity nose and long, OVER $100 well-balanced, aromatic musky sweet palate. 5 TASTED “Delightful,” thought one 4 AWARDED judge. $7.99 d’Arenberg Another strong class with The Stump Jump personal preferences a Fizzy Sticky Adelaide factor. Each judge had Hills McLaren Vale their favourite. Chardonnay NV (500ml) HHH Pol Roger Extra Nutty, buttery aromas Cuvée De Réserve with hints of apricot Blanc De Blancs and marmalade, and a Champagne luscious, well-balanced 2000 HHHHH palate. $12.95 A classic style still amazingly tight and vibrant, with lovely layers of toasted nuts, honey and cream-like characters. Great length and complexity of baked apple, quince and berry flavours. $124.95 November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 97

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINLIMESTONE COASTFAMILY AFFAIR CAFE SCENE GROWING casual menus. Also worth checking out is the Vic St Pizzeria in Robe, run by SallyJOHN Riddoch founded the Coonawarra IT IS a common complaint that life moves and Sean Emery (ex Upstairs at Hollick’s).wine region in 1890 when he planted the at a leisurely pace on the Limestone Coastfirst grape vines. Now, over 120 years later, – but there has been plenty of activity on STEP OUT FOR A TASTINGhis great-great-grandson, John Rymill, runs the cafe and restaurant scene in recentthe Rymill Coonawarra Winery, boasting one months. Talented young chef Kirby FOR those who like to enjoy their wineof the area’s best cellar doors. The family’s Shearing, formerly of Mayura Station at tastings at a leisurely pace, the newly-long connection to both wine and horses is Millicent, is now at the Gambier Hotel in launched Coonawarra Walking Trail offerssignified by the Stallions Rampant logo on Mount Gambier (a grand heritage-listed a most enjoyable experience. Five wineriesthe company’s wine labels and the bronze building dating back to 1867) offering situated in the heart of the famous Terrasculpture by noted artist Gabriel Sterk at the fine dining at Redfins restaurant, as well Rossa strip: Brand’s Laira, Di Giorgio Familywinery entrance. The cellar door offers visitors as overhauling the pub menus. He is Wines, Redman Wines, Wynns Coonawarrathe opportunity to taste the full Rymill range, specialising in fresh local seafood and Estate and Zema Estate, are featured on theincluding wines that are available exclusively steaks. The Gambier Hotel, 2 Commercial new 5km trail. As a special bonus duringfrom the winery. Guests are invited to browse St, Mount Gambier; phone (08) 8725 2404. November, Zema Estate will be holding miniamong many works of art, view the various shiraz vertical tastings and offering shirazsculptures and peek into the winery from What was the Terra Rossa Wine Club has specials every weekend of the month fromviewing balconies. There are three series of been re-branded and re-opened as Penola 9am-5pm. Walkers are advised to spendpaintings by local artist John Hinge. The first Station restaurant in downtown Penola. “My around 20 minutes at each of the wineries – allseries comprises the Rymill vineyards’ seven passion is to create original, beautifully of which are open seven days a week – for anprincipal grape varieties. The second depicts crafted meals using local produce,” says experience lasting around three hours. Theythe development of cabernet sauvignon chef Christos Rallis. “Food is an art and I are also recommended to allow time for afrom its dormant winter bud through to the thoroughly enjoy combining the ingredients lunch stop at Fodder restaurant, or pre-bookfully mature bunch of grapes the following together to bring to life something unique.” a picnic hamper from the Coonawarra storeautumn. And the third shows the annual cycle The menu features starters like ravioli of to enjoy on the lawns at one of the wineries.of vineyard operations. Two bronze sculptures chicken with field mushrooms, porcini Parking is available at all five cellar doors,stand in the family history corner of the cellar brood and baby spinach and mains like meaning would-be walkers can start at anydoor; one of John Riddoch and the other of his oven-baked spitchcock with Moroccan point on the trail. Walkers are requestedgrandson, John Riddoch Rymill, an acclaimed pearl couscous, sultana pine nuts, confit to keep to the designated walking trail topolar explorer, both created by distinguished tomatoes and herbs. Penola Station, 48 help prevent the spread of the vine diseasesculptor John Dowie. Rymill Coonawarra is Church St, Penola; phone (08) 8737 3350. phylloxera, which is present in some vineyardsopen daily from 10am-5pm and sits on the in Victoria and New South Wales, and to avoidRiddoch Highway; phone (08) 8736 5001 Coonawarra Jack Cafe in the former vineyard machinery, which has the right of way.www.rymill.com.au. Poplars facility has reopened offering café- For more details see www.coonawarra.org. style dining, while the Metro Cafe in Mount Gambier is doing a roaring trade with its98 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012

travelbriefsSOMEWHERE EXTRA ROOMSYOU MUST STAY AT THE BARNATTENTION to detail has made Must @ THE Barn in Mount Gambier hasCoonawarra one of the Limestone Coast undergone further expansion with theregion’s most popular places to stay. Just addition of a further 14 suites. The deluxea short walk to the cafes, restaurants king and spa suites completed in lateand pubs of downtown Penola, but set 2009 have proven so popular that workback from the main road, Must offers is now completed on a further 14 suites,luxurious, self-contained suites with taking the total number of rooms to 46.plasma TVs, free DVDs and broadband The new accommodation is known asand in-room spas. There is also a green Premier King Suites and each has atinge to the facilities with rainwater, solar king-sized bed and classical bathroom, selections specialising in Coonawarra and Limestone Coast producers. The facility is owned by the Cleves family, themselves cattle breeders, ensuring the supply of top-class meat. The Barn, Punt Rd, Mount Gambier; phone (08) 8726 8250. www.barn.com.au.hot water and recycling all used, along along with garden and rural views. The PIPERS UPS THE ANTEwith allergy-free cleaning agents. There suites are constructed from cavity walledare over 25 cellar doors within a short Mount Gambier stone and set well back I DOUBT if there is a better regionaldrive. Must @ Coonawarra, 126 Church St, from the road. Spa rooms will feature restaurant in South Australia than PipersPenola; phone (08) 8737 3444. large two-person corner spas. The Barn of Penola which just gets better every timewww.mustatcoonawarra.com.au. is also well known for its award-winning I eat there. Chef Simon Bowen, whose steakhouse where the wine list is updated family owns Bowen Estate just downFRIENDLIEST CELLAR DOOR seasonally and local wines are poured the road, and his wife Erika do a superb by the glass. The list features over 400 job promoting local wines and produce,THE Coonawarra Wine Gallery is one of the and their waiting staff combine countryLimestone Coast’s friendliest cellar doors; charm with city efficiency. Pipers wasa multi-brand tasting facility that is home the venue for the recent launch of theto not only Lindeman’s Coonawarra Trio 2010 Lindeman’s Trio wines and dishesof Pyrus, St George and Limestone Ridge like twice-cooked crisp pork hock with(the 2010s are outstanding) but also to Puy lentils and house-smoked lardons,wines under the Mildara and Jamieson’s and seared gnocchi with braised lamb,Run labels. The airconditioned tasting parsnip puree and chestnut dressing,room, which looks out over some lovely which were absolutely outstanding.gardens, also offers a range of local Pipers of Penola, 8 Riddoch St,gourmet goods, wines by the glass and Penola; phone (08) 8737 3999. It ischeese plates, along with coffee and tea. open for dinner Tuesday-Saturday andIt’s hard to miss on the Riddoch Highway, on Sundays of long weekends. www.Coonawarra; phone (08) 8737 1300. pipersofpenola.com.au. Left: Must @ Coonawarra exterior. Below: Self-contained suites. Right: Pipers of Penola exterior. Opposite page: Rymill cellar door and entrance. November/December 2012 W I N E S TAT E 99

103 TASTED78 AWARDEDLIMESTONE COASTOften regarded as Australia’s Bordeaux, the region OTHER WHITE Mt Monster The Highlandexcels with cabernet sauvignon and blends and, during VARIETALS White 2009 HHHwarm years, shiraz. The region can also produce some & BLENDS Candied pear aromas withsuperb individual whites from time to time. developed toasty notes and 5 TASTED interesting lime palate. $15.95SPARKLING 4 AWARDED A mixed group with one great SAUVIGNON13 TASTED example of a fine riesling. BLANC & BLENDS7 AWARDED Raidis Estate 7 TASTED The Kid Coonawarra 3 AWARDEDA group of solid, evenly rated, Padthaway Estate Riesling 2012 HHHHHwines across a diverse range of Izzie Pinot Noir A zesty, fresh citrus sherbet Good wines were few andstyles. “A bit of time has been Chardonnay NV HHH bouquet with bright, fresh far between from a difficultput into these wines - they A full-flavoured, commercial floral edges. Great balance, 2011 vintage.are not just simple carbonated style with clean, simple, persistence and freshness ofsparklings,” said one judge. varietal fruit and lingering, estery lemony-like flavours Jamiesons Run Limestone yeasty notes. $15 with an attractive, apple skin- Coast Sauvignon BlancCuvée Coonawarra DiGiorgio Lucindale like grip. $19 Semillon 2012 HHHChardonnay Pinot Noir South Australia Pinot Raidis Estate Cheeky Goat Typical gooseberry, asparagus,Brut NV HHH1/2 Noir Chardonnay NV HHH Coonawarra Pinot Gris cut grass aromas and light,Candied citrus bouquet Subdued but elegant nose - hints 2012 HHH1/2 tropical flavours. $14.99with strawberry notes. Fresh of strawberries with complex, Pale pink colour with pleasantand zesty in the mouth with mouthfilling flavours. $16.50 strawberry lift to the nose. Tidswell Winesfruity flavours and drying, Flavoursome palate reminiscent Heathfield Ridgeacid end. $21.99 CM of a baked pear tart. $19 Sauvignon Blanc 2012 HHH Leconfield Old Vines Subtle tropical bouquet andPadthaway Estate Eliza Henry’s Drive The Coonawarra Riesling zesty, lemon sherbet palatePinot Noir Chardonnay Postmistress Padthaway 2011 HHH1/2 with simple, grassy notes. $192008 HHH1/2 Blanc de Blanc 2010 HHH Subtle citrus/floral aromas andSmells of ripe apples with Young, fresh, floral/citrus simple, steely, lemon/grassy DiGiorgio Lucindalenutty/yeasty notes. Good bouquet, a touch toasty palate with a touch of residual Limestone Coast Sauvignontoasty complexity to the with soft, candied citrus sugar sweetness. $24.95 Blanc 2011 HHHcandied fruit palate. Lovely flavours. $21.99 Tinned fruit and asparagusaperitif style. $25 Padthaway Estate Eliza on the nose with similarPadthaway Estate Eliza Blanc de Blanc Sparkling characters on the long, freshLate Tirage Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2008 HHH palate. $18Chardonnay 2002 HHH1/2 A complexity of sherbet,Big, golden wine with lovely, toffee apples, citrus and some CHARDONNAYyeasty complexity on the nose, nuttiness. Quite toasty, slighta fine bead and upfront, toasty, sweetness. $35 7 TASTEDcitrus flavours. Firm finish. $50 7 AWARDED A consistent and solid result from this category. Jamiesons Run Limestone Coast Chardonnay 2011 HHHH Ripe but restrained aromas - touch floral and citrussy. Subtle stonefruit flavours; some very nice oak. Still fresh and vibrant. Needs time. $14.99100 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2012