Winestate Magazine September October 2013

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2013 WINESTATE VOL 36 ISSUE 5 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 Over 10,000 tasted annually AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDEWORLD'S GREATEST SHIRAZ CHALLENGE VIII SEMILLON RIVER REGIONS YARRA YALLEY & SOUTHERN VICTORIA OTAGO, NZ LAeLgaasctying A TRIBUTE TO PETER LEHMANN’S LIFE-LONG AFFAIR WITH THE BAROSSAPRINT POST APPROVED 100003663 273 WORLD’S GREATEST NEW RELEASES SYRAH DESERT & SHIRAZ FRONTIER CHALLENGE DELIVERS 582TASTED September/October 2013 Vol 36 Issue 5 PINOT NOIR CENTRAL $9.95 AUS (inc GST) NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 US $14.99 GBP £8.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 INR 1000 RUB 700 CHF 15.00 BGN 25.00 plus Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac Semillon & Blends Otago (NZ) Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria River Regions









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NO.257 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2013Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] - Margaret River -Managing Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Rich History - New EraSub-editor Michael Bates (Established in 1985)Administration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Renate Gerard E-mail: [email protected] Fermoy Estate is a premiumMarketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] winery in the heart of theTasting Coordinator Cara Cassetta E-mail: [email protected] DAI Rubicon Margaret River Wine Region.Winestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] Fermoy has won numerous awardsCONTRIBUTORS and built an enviable reputationNew South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley for producing top quality winesSouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins which are sold and appreciatedVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin across Australia and around theWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod Properjohn world.Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael Cooper, Jane Skilton MW Perhaps most famously, Fermoy’sNational Travel Winsor Dobbin 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon whichUSA Gerald D. Boyd won a double accolade by being theEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW only red wine and the only WesternASIA Denis Gaston Australian wine served at theADVERTISING SALES official reception for the RoyalAustralia, New Zealand & International Wedding of Australia’s MaryPeter Jackson, Winestate Publications Donaldson to Prince Frederik ofPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Denmark.South Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277 We look forward to being part ofE-mail: [email protected] the Hong Kong International WineNew South WalesAngelica Naranjo - Pearman Media and Spirit ShowPhone: (02) 02 9929 3966 E-mail: [email protected] November 7-9 2013.QueenslandJaye Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] Fermoy EstateWestern Australia 838 Metricup Road, Wilyabrup WA 6013Kym Burke - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766 T+61 8 9755 6285 F+61 8 9755 6251WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] www.fermoy.com.auItaly & Eastern Europe [email protected] Potestà - Mediapoint & Communications SrlPhone: +39 010 5704948 E-mail: [email protected] Nogier - Buenos Aires - FrancePhone: +33 4 8638 8019 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.buenos-aires.frDISTRIBUTORSAustraliaGordon and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandGordon and Gotch New ZealandInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2013 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsSEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2013OTHER FEATURES 42 GAMBLE PAYS OFF WO R L D ’ S G R E AT E S T A 40-year run of growing grapes in SYRAH & SHIRAZ32 PINOT NOIR CENTRAL the Riverland came to an abrupt end Nestled in the majestic inland in 2009 when drought and chronic 52 After opening almost 600 bottles over basins and valleys of New Zealand’s oversupply threatened to send the six days, Winestate’s mighty mid-year most southern wine regions, Otago Bassham family broke, writes Paul tasting of the hottest reds in the annual has quietly built a reputation for Mitchell. But instead of accepting the World’s Greatest Syrah and Shiraz producing exceptional pinot noir. inevitable, the Basshams gambled Challenge is over and the winners can Michael Cooper reports that Otago that alternative grapes would save be declared. Winestate Editor and is now NZ’s third-largest wine region them. Now the Basshams boast a Publisher Peter Simic describes the thanks largely to the almost 1400ha range of Mediterranean varieties and of pinot noir vines. their own label.34 DESERT FRONTIER DELIVERS 46 A LASTING LEGACY challenge as one of the toughest in It’s a long journey from the isolated Peter Lehmann, who died in June, the world as it pits the best shiraz in and barren inland plains of Inner strode across the Barossa Valley and Australia with the finest syrahs from Mongolia to premium wine importer the Australian wine landscape with Europe and New Zealand.Douglas Lamb Wines’ Sydney giant strides, writes Dan Trauki. He was 56 AND THE WINNERS ARE …showroom. But Chateau Hansen has a larger-then-life character and in his 82 It’s all about the Barossa Valley afterseemingly achieved the impossible, years Lehmann contributed so much the top two awards in this year’ssays Denis Gastin. The winery and touched so many in the industry. Winestate World’s Greatest Syrahplanted its first vines in the barren and Shiraz Challenge went to SouthGobi desert in the 1980s and now has R E G U L A R S Australian-produced reds, while third spot was filled by a Hawke’s Bay winepremium wine on sale in Australia.38 SHIRAZ - OUR WORLD CLASSIC 14 Briefs with a history of show success.It might have started out in Europe 23 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Cooper 62 EVERYONE’S A WINNERbeing known as syrah, but in Australia 24it is shiraz and, writes Andrew Corrigan 26 European Report with Sally Easton Whether you seek your selectionsMW, it’s our signature red. He says the 28Australian style of shiraz sets us apart, 30 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley from the top end of the market or lookwith its rich, soft, generous flavour. Wine Travel with Elisabeth King for your favourite drops at the budget end, we’ve uncovered a wine for you. Wine History with Valmai Hankel Read what the judges said about theW I N E TAST I N G S 66 Grapevine hundreds of reds they tasted and 72 Wine Words rated, from the under $10 categories to the over $200-plus selections. 110 Semillon & Blends 75 How We Judge 86 WHAT THE JUDGES SAID116 Yarra Valley & Southern Victoria 76 What’s it Worth? The senior show-judging panel this 120 River Regions 78 Wine Investment & Collecting year included legendary winemaker126 Hawke’s Bay, NZ 155 Subscription Form Wolf Blass, Phil Reedman MW and 130 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases 170 Aftertaste Chairman of Judges at the Brisbane Wine Show Philip John, and they pulled no punches in their tasting notes. Browse what they and the other judges had to say about the winners and the latest trends. 135 Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac, New Releases and Top 40 Best Buys under $20. Winestate Magazine For a complete list of what we tasted for this Issue Number 257 issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au September/October 2013 Cover photograph Courtesy of Peter Lehmann Wines © Tony Tervoert.

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editorialHAS THE WINE WORLD GONE COMPLETELY MAD? LAST year in one of my editorials I made the comment that “94 is thenew 90” referring to the trend of wine critics edging up scores in responseto ever demanding retail (and consumer) pressures. A year on, and if anything, things seem to have gotten worse! I have never seenso many highly scored wines from my fellow critics. It seems that unless thescores are very high the wineries are not going to quote the critic involved andthat in itself puts a lot of pressure on the result. I have been told by a number ofwinemakers that we now have a situation where a seeming majority of BarossaValley wineries have been awarded five-star ratings from one prominent critic. Asmuch as I love the Barossa that seems ridiculous! Now when someone says “weare a five-star winery” the tempting answer is to say“so what; so is everyone else”. We have another situation where an iconic red wine was recently awarded100 points (not judged blind) only for the winemaker to say “wait ‘till you seethe 2010 vintage; that is even better!” Does that make it 110 points? Needlessto say I am not a fan of the saying “I gave it 110 per cent”. One winery actually told us that they don’t put their wines into our tastingsbecause we don’t score high enough and he can get higher scores to promote hiswines elsewhere.That is a badge that I will wear with pride. We know that we recommend on average only about 50 per centof all wines we review. I would happily have for lunch any three-star wine we recommend and for dinner anything above that. Of course the problem we face at Winestate, and the reason why our scores tend to be lower, is that we use theInternational 20 points judging system with three judges tasting each wine blind.Then we use the Winestate “majorityrules” system where rather than averaging scores, two judges have to recommend the wine and the closest two scoresgo through. So, for example, if two judges give a wine 15/20 points and the third gives it 18 points it is out becausetwo judges have said it is out, rather than averaging it up. To make things even tougher, we like to use winemakers asjudges because they can tell a wine fault or two, along with the occasional Master of Wine who adds an internationalexpertise viewpoint. And we are OK with sommeliers who we respect. Our judging system uses a similar format, apart from averaging, that most wine shows around the country use, but theredoes seem to be a trend (to be trendy?) for these shows to move to the 100-point system, which I amwe are trying to avoidif possible. As I mentioned in another previous editorial we are now seeing a replay of the eighties (during what I call theBordeaux period when 12 baume reds were awarded gold medals in an attempt to emulate European styles). Now it seemsall things imported are again “cool,” and fresh and lively young wines are pushed to the fore at the expense of older, moresavoury complex wines. Give it five years and I guarantee that we will again “discover” the great old wines of Australia! In this issue I am proud to once again present our World’s Greatest Shiraz and Syrah Challenge, with lots of excellentwines to chose from across all price ranges and vintages. The numbers were down a little this year, reflecting the toughtimes for the industry and the difficult 2011 vintage for some regions where these wines were simply not produced. But asalways the cream rises to the top and we thank those wineries who were brave enough to take on our formidable judges. As with all our tastings there were some pleasant value surprises and a few shocks at the pointy end of wine prices.At the higher priced level it is like “taking the Rolls out on the dirt tracks for a spin,” so to speak, without the benefitof giving extra points for the provenance of history and reputation. But of course we cannot make allowances forsome iconic brands when all our wines are judged blind. We do acknowledge however that in a social setting iconicbrands do offer an additional enjoyment cache, but it is not our role to defend or promote them; we have to be quiterigorous in our blind tasting recommendations. To finish off, please refer to our tribute to the late and great Peter Lehmann who passed away recently. He was onour first Winestate New Releases panel way back in 1978 and greatly helped in giving the magazine early credibilitythrough his undoubted reputation. The industry has lost one of its giants, both in his personality and in his influenceon its direction and outcome. Our sincere condolences go out to Margaret and all of his family.Cheers!Peter SimicEditor/Publisher September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefsPIONEERING CELEBRATION PUSH FOR STANDARD GLASSESCELEBRATING 150 years this year, the Grampians wine THE modern wine glass comes in many shapes, sizes andregion can reflect back on some major achievements from these days, purposes. Restaurants throughout Australia spendpioneering sparkling wine production in this country to thousands of dollars on buying glassware to suit the individualchampioning cool-climate shiraz. But history also reveals characters of specific grape varieties to enhance our drinkingthat the number of vignerons in the region has shrunk over experience, but this could change if the Consumers’ Federationthat time and so, too, has acreage. In the 1890s the area of Australia has its way. The Federation has called for a(originally referred to as Great Western) was home to 112 standard measure glass to be introduced for wine and beer invignerons farming 765ha of vines. Today, there are just 44 Australian pubs, bars and restaurants. It claims under existingvignerons and 750ha. One man who has seen 53 vintages in rules consumers do not know how much wine and beer theythe region, Viv Thomson at Best’s Wines, says its distance are drinking, due to the many different sizes of glasses andfrom Melbourne makes winegrowing expensive and means the fill heights in use. The lack of information, it says, also makesGrampians doesn’t enjoy the same level of winery tourism of it difficult to count the number of standard drinks consumedregions closer to the capital, something most wineries depend and drinkers have no idea whether the measures they areupon to exist. “It’s sad there are not another two or three more receiving are value for money.quality producers, adds Thomson. “The region lacks critical “Consumers are entitled to know how much wine is being served,”mass. We want another 10 producers around the place.” The says the Federation executive committee member John Furbank.biggest producer in the Grampians has been the biggestproducer throughout its history, Seppelt, formerly known as WINTER SPARKLERGreat Western Vineyards and Cellar, and founded by JosephBest in 1866. His brother, Henry, founded Concongella, later GETTING people excited about sparkling wine in the winterBest’s Wines, in the same year. months is a tricky proposition but Domaine Chandon is trying hard with the release of a new, limited production run of inaugural wines under the new Vintage Collection Series. The first wine to be released is Cuvee 500, a reference to the sourcing of chardonnay and pinot noir from high, cool-climate vineyards above 500m in the Macedon Ranges, Strathbogies and Whitlands sub-region of the King Valley. Cuvee 500 is the brainchild of DC winemaker Glenn Thompson who says he was allowed a great deal of creative freedom to explore new styles starting with the generous 2008 vintage. “The year produced fuller wines with more character and weight,” says Thompson. Just 500 cases of Cuvee 500 ($45) was made and most will be sold through restaurants and the company’s Yarra Valley cellar door.14 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

briefsKEEPING TRACK A NEW HEROIN a world first, Jacob’s Creek has launched a phone app THE Western Victorian winethat calculates the number of standard drinks contained industry has a new hero, ain a glass of wine. And all the drinker need do is point the wine bar dedicated to allphone towards the glass. Wine Line is free reality app with a things Western Victorian indatabase containing 70 specific wine labels, or alternatively, wine. The Mitchell-Harris winethe user can tap into the app a wine’s alcohol percentage bar in Ballarat is the brainchildand a calculation will be made. The app will also keep track of former Domaine Chandonof how many standard drinks you are consuming during the winemaker, John Harris, whoday or night. The Wine Line launch coincides with research has been making wine inconducted by Premium Wine Brands, owner of Jacob’s Creek, the area in recent years at Mount Avoca as well as under his ownthat reveals that as many as 86 per cent of Australians don’t Mitchell-Harris label. “This is to be the hub for Western Victorianknow what constitutes a standard drink. wines,” says Harris, who already lists an impressive range of wines at his wine bar from surrounding regions: Grampians and Henty toBACK TO ITS ROOTS the west, Pyrenees to the north, Macedon Ranges to the east and Geelong to the south. Harris also runs wine education classes fromSEPPELT Great Western is returning to its roots and once the bar and is contemplating future winemaking courses for a smallagain sourcing riesling from Great Western. The 2012 vintage band of interested people. Maybe it will be a sparkling wine class.sees the first release in a long time from the home of the Harris has continued making the style and his first solo release,historic winery and is made in an off-dry style with 129g of Sabre, a 2008 vintage sparkling chardonnay and pinot noir keepsresidual sugar, something winemaker Adam Carnaby says to his Western Victorian philosophy, with fruit sourced from thedelivers the texture he is after. “Great Western is drier and Macedon Ranges and the Pyrenees.warmer than Drumborg (the main source of riesling for thecompany) and the flavours come on quite early,” he said. CALLING FOR A CAB“I have made it in a textural style, with good weight on thepalate and aromatics.” Carnaby will make a Great Western WYNNS Coonawarra Estate is on the hunt for bottles of its cabernetriesling in good years and has 2012 as well as a 2013 vintage sauvignon from the 1960s - any bottles. Chief winemaker Suewaiting in the wings. This year will also see the release of Hodder is desperate to find the wines for a planned vertical tastinga $100 Great Western Show sparkling shiraz from the 2004 next year to celebrate 60 years of cabernet sauvignon at the winery.vintage, made in a tighter style than some previous releases. The museum collection at Wynns doesn’t hold a single bottle of“I hope I’m around when it grows up,” declared former Seppelt cabernet sauvignon from that decade, hence the Australia-widewinemaker Ian McKenzie at the pre-launch “because it’s got call out. “It was the wines from the 1960s that inspired us, inspireda long way to go.” Australian winemakers to see the potential for greatness in the grape,” says Hodder. Now, all she needs is the wines.home winemaster 10 wine cellar management softwarelove your wine? * download free trial version now www.winestate.com.au* take control of your wine cellar* avoid drinking too late or too early * $89.95 AUD (includes 1 year subscription* subscribe and interact with to Winestate Tasting Notes) Winestate Magazine Notes * runs on Microsoft Windows XP,* flexible charting and reporting Vista and 7 (32 + 64 bit) even create your own reports or enjoy your download reports from other users wine cellar!* create lists of wines for purchase* + many more features September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefsHUNTER ON SONG CHATTO ASSUMES CONTROLThe longest-running annual music festival in the Hunter Valley - Jazz JIM Chatto has beenin the Vines - returns again this year with an all-star line-up. The 21st appointed to one of theJazz in the Vines will be held at Tyrrell’s winery on October 26, and is most prestigious winemakingalways one of the biggest days on the Hunter’s social calendar. The roles in the country; chief2013 line-up includes Marcia Hines, James Morrison with his soul winemaker at McWilliam’s,band, The Bamboos from Melbourne with their modern take on soul, based at Mount Pleasantfunk and jazz, pianist Jan Preston and trumpeter Bob Barnard. Also in the Hunter Valley. Chattoamong the attractions are The Shuffle Demons from Canada and will become only the fourththe Admiral’s Own Big Band. As usual, there will be various market man to hold the key rolestalls, local winemakers, restaurants and produce. Tyrrell’s, Drayton’s, at Mount Pleasant sinceTamburlaine and Petersons will be providing the wines, while a host of Maurice O’Shea establishedlocal restaurants will be on site. Tyrrell’s Vineyard is at 1882 Broke Rd. the Hunter Valley winery in 1921. His appointment will see himPokolbin. Tickets are on sale at www. jazzinthevines.com.au. responsible for the winemaking and stylistic direction of all McWilliam’s wines across its Australian portfolio, and followsNEW CELLAR DOOR the retirement of Phil Ryan in 2012. He will be working with the senior winemakers at each site around the country and joinsBOUTIQUE wine producer the team following time spent as a consultant with McWilliam’sBantry Grove has just opened throughout the 2013 vintage. “Mount Pleasant’s place in the storya new cellar door in the heart of Australian wine is significant and having had the rare privilegeof Millthorpe in the New South of tasting some great O’Shea wines, I’m aware of the gravitas theWales Central West. Bantry role carries and the enormous responsibility to honour the legacyGrove@La Boucherie is open of Maurice O’Shea and the individuality of each Mount Pleasantbetween 10am-5pm Friday- site, as well as the broader McWilliam’s brands,” he said. ChattoSunday. “The Orange wine also paid tribute to Phil Ryan’s legacy, saying: “Phil Ryan has beenregion is gaining momentum a great champion of our region, an enormously accomplishedwith wine lovers from all winemaker and mentor to many. I am deeply honoured to be Phil’sover Australia coming to successor and be part of the incredible wine story that is Mountthe Central West to sample the fantastic cool-climate wines Pleasant.” He joins McWilliam’s from Pepper Tree Wines, whereand wonderful food available here,” said owner Terry Johnson. he has held the position of chief winemaker since 2007. With 20“Opening a cellar door in the area was a logical next step to make vintages of Hunter Valley winemaking experience, he is also aour wines more accessible to customers.” The facility has the full senior wine show judge and has been Chairman of Judges at therange of Bantry Grove wines for tasting along with cheese and Hunter Valley Wine Show since last year. He and his wife, Daisy,charcuterie tasting plates made by local producers. Coffee, tea and also own and operate Isle Vineyard in Tasmania’s Huon Valley.a selection of cakes are also available. “The Bantry Grove cellar Chatto will be succeeded at Pepper Tree by Scott Comyns, whodoor offers a relaxed intimate environment where people can taste was hired in 2012 after six years at Tempus Two. Comyns alsoour range of wines, get something to eat or enjoy a coffee whilst has a Tasmanian link, having worked at Panorama in the Huontalking to the family who have grown the grapes,” said Johnson. Valley, as well as doing vintages in France.All food for Bantry Grove@La Boucherie is being supplied by localfarmers to highlight produce available in the region, including fresh UNEXPECTED HONOURbread from Tonic, pate and rillettes made by Michael Manners,cheese from the Second Mouse Cheese Company and charcuterie BILL Calabria from Westend Estate in the Riverina was awardedmeats from Country Fruit in Bathurst. Bantry Grove’s cellar door is an Order of Australia in the Queen’s Birthday Honours List forat 25 Victoria St, Millthorpe. services to charity and the wine industry. He was presented with his AM by Governor General Quentin Bryce. One of nine children born to Italian migrant parents, Calabria has built Westend Estate into a major industry player that now exports to over 20 countries. “It was an unexpected honour and I really can’t take full credit,” Calabria said. “It feels a bit unfair because there are a lot of people out there who do a lot more than I do.” Calabria has been involved in many fundraisers and charity events over the years and said: “I dedicate this honour to everyone who made this possible. Without the support of my family and the community who all contributed when I wanted to raise funds for those less fortunate, I couldn’t have done it without them.”16 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

briefsFAMILY AFFAIR CUTHBERT CALLS IT A DAYTHE Scarborough family AFTER 25 years in the Tasmanian wine industry, Roderick Cuthbertswept the awards at the has sold his Tamar Valley vineyard business, Iron Pot Bay Wines.Hunter Valley Legends and The new owners, Ashok and Julieanne Mani, live in Launceston.Wine Industry Awards. The Cuthbert, 82, feels it is a timely moment to leave the industry andprestigious Hunter Valley acknowledged all his colleagues in the industry for their inspirationWine Industry Living Legend and support. He paid special tribute to Errol and Cecilia Wilcoxgong was awarded to Ian and Margot Kennedy, who have all worked for more than 20 yearsScarborough, who arrived for the business. Cuthbert said he was “delighted” that the newin the Hunter in 1973 to work owners of Iron Pot Bay have plans to keep the business going muchfor Tulloch and then went on as before. They have plans for a new cellar door to be establishedto establish Scarborough at the Rowella vineyard.Wine Company in 1987.In a massive win for the BUGGED BYfamily, daughter, Sally PINOT NOIRScarborough, took homethe Rising Star of the Year RICK Burge has caught theaward for her work across the family business. Almost 200 pinot noir bug. It is an unusualguests gathered at Cypress Lakes Resort to celebrate the bug for a Barossa winemakerpeople behind Australia’s oldest wine region, with Peter Hall to catch; he’s more used tofrom McGuigan Wines winning the award for Winemaker of the working with grunty reds likeYear, while another father/daughter duo, Keith and Katrina Barry shiraz and grenache thanfrom Brokenwood Wines, were awarded Viticulturist of the Year. more ethereal TasmanianCellar Door of the Year went to Margan Family Wines, while pinot noir. But it is a wineHalls Cottage took home the Hunter Valley Heritage Awards. style that has increasinglyIn a first for the awards, the Hunter Valley Wine Industry Award captured his fancy. Hefor Excellence went to Ian Napier and Stewart Ewen for their describes great Burgundiescampaign to promote the Hunter Valley and protect it from further as “liquid sex”. “I caught themining exploitation. Burgundy bug first,” he says, recalling a 1973 La Tache, “and now I have the Tasmanian bug”.PIRIE REAPS HIS REWARD The winemaking veteran is looking at what will be his first Tassie pinot from the recently concluded 2013 vintage, with help in theAFTER four decades as an innovator and leader, Tasmanian wine winery from talented Kate Hill, who has set up a production facilityindustry pioneer Andrew Pirie is still crafting fine wines - and still at Ranelagh in the Huon Valley, and in partnership with his long-timewinning awards. The latest in a long line of accolades came when friend Tim Goddard. Goddard used to run Moorilla Estate pre-Davidhis small and relatively new vineyard at Lebrina, Apogee, was Walsh and now operates one of Tasmania’s best bottle shops innamed as the 2013 WFI Vineyard of the Year award, which is Hobart’s Cool Wine, while Hill has worked for Orlando Wyndhamconducted by the Royal Agricultural Society of Tasmania (RAST). and done vintages in California, Chile and France before arrivingSome of Tasmania’s finest vineyards entered for this year’s award in Tasmania in 2006. Burge joins several other big names fromwhich promotes excellence in Tasmanian viticulture management Coonawarra, the Hunter Valley and McLaren Vale in seeing theas the prime means to growing great grapes. Pirie, who has been potential of Tasmanian fruit and buying his way in - in a small waythe founder of the Ninth Island, Pipers Brook, Pirie and South at first. “I’ve been enjoying drinking Tasmanian pinots for severallabels during his stellar career, established his own vineyard in years and decided I wanted to do something down here myself,”2007. “Andrew carefully chose his site for Apogee, with particular Burge said. “There are lots of things I still want to do in my life,attention to climate and other environmental factors, to produce so why not do this? I’ll be down two-three times a year and willgrapes to achieve a complex style of quality sparkling wine as enjoy both working with Kate but also fruit of the quality I havewell as table wine,” says chief judge Frank Walker. Pirie says his been able to source.” At the moment Burge is using grapes fromgoal is to make high-quality wines from a small, hand-tended area the southern valleys, but that may change in future vintages. “Theoperated on a commercial and sustainable basis. “I hope and last thing we want is a formulaic wine,” he says. “I hope we canbelieve that the combination of the highly-researched site, with gradually lift the bar to create something a little different.” Burgethe latest knowledge of terroir theory is leading to wines which is no dilettante. Burge Family Winemakers has been producingare very expressive of the terroir,” he said. Apogee currently wines for over 80 years, usually lush and concentrated reds, manyproduces a sparkling wine and a pinot gris labelled Alto. A rosé of which are exported to Asia, increasingly using organic andis to be released soon and total production at its peak will be biodynamic principles. Now all that is needed is time and a namelimited to 1500 cases a year. for the new Rick Burge pinot. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 17

briefsSTEPHENS CHEFS PITCH INHEADS HOME MARGARET River Gourmet Escape has unveiled a line-up of topFORMER Kirrihill winemaker chefs for its November 22-24 festival of food and wine, includingDonna Stephens has left Heston Blumenthal, Rick Stein, Alex Atala and Sat Bains along withthe Clare Valley for her Australian culinary icons Neil Perry and Matt Moran. The Margarethometown of Mildura, where River Gourmet Escape will deliver a program showcasing theshe’s taken on the role of best of Western Australia and the Margaret River Wine Regionhead winemaker for Cappa through a line-up of over 25 international and Australian food andStone Wines. Since joining wine personalities and events set in unique locations. AmongCappa Stone, Stephens has the additions to the program are Rockpool on Rocky Road withoverseen the construction the team from Perry’s Rockpool Bar & Grill showcasing a fusionof a new winery complete of rotisserie meats, gourmet salads and fine wines at McHenrywith old basket presses and Hohnen. For event information see www.gourmetescape.com.au.open fermenters, as well ascompleting vintage 2013.“Donna’s experience in selecting the best parcels of super-premium fruit from the appropriate growing regions is well knownand it is this approach that underpins the Cappa Stone range,”the winery said. The Cappa Stone range includes moscato madefrom white frontignac in Mildura, Adelaide Hills sauvignon blancand chardonnay, Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon and ClareValley shiraz. Just as she did at Kirrihill, Stephens is experimentingwith alternative varietals at Cappa Stone, including nebbiolo,vermentino, sangiovese and nero d’Avola.introducing a collection aFlSdOTIROANi.VRSDcAEEEoLSITLmE,AACVIBTLI.ESSaLIEDTuof premium wines atnot-so-premium pricesAustrAliA Margaret River W.A. McLaren Vale S.A. Coonawarra S.A.*9$ 99 9$ 99 9$ 99 9$ 99 ea ea ea eaA.C. Byrne & Co Margaret A.C. Byrne & Co A.C. Byrne & Co A.C. Byrne & Co McLarenRiver Semillon Sauvignon Margaret RiverBlanc 2012/2013 750ml Chardonnay Margaret River Cabernet Vale Shiraz 2011 750ml 2012/2013 750ml Merlot 2011 750mlClassically Margaret river with Classically Mclaren Vale withexpressive fruits of citrus blossom, rich and opulent with generous concentrated wild berry, blackberry Modern and wonderfully expressive flavours of blackberry, plum and and blueberry flavours finishinglemon, passionfruit, herbs and tropical with citrus blossom, white peach and soft dark fruits. A wine with charm, with light spice, chocolate andfruits with an underlying minerality. nectarine fruits and a delicate elegance and flavour through clove characters. A wine of richness integration of French oak. the finish. and generosity.25LooiKfyuonuder ALDI supports the responsible service of alcohol. It is illegal to purchase alcohol for people under 18.reiq.du.irised *The A.C. Byrne & Co. Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was not made in the 2011 vintage due to vintage conditions. This wine will return with the 2012 vintage.18 ALC531W4_WI NineEstaSteT_MAagT_SEept_S2e01p3t.einmddbe1r/October 2013 7/15/13 2:38 PM

briefsPERFECT SCORE FOR ‘PERFECT’ WINE FRESH TASTETHE latest Penfolds Grange - the 2008 vintage - set some DATES for Tasting Australia 2014 - now under control of a new groupimpressive records in the month leading up to its May 2 release of organisers - have been unveiled, with a focus on involving the widerdate, leading some to wonder and admire the power of the public along with food and wine lovers. South Australian Tourism Ministerwinemaker’s marketing machine. The vintage, one of the best Leon Bignell announced Tasting Australia 2014 will be staged from Aprilin recent years, was already set for a price increase when 27-May 4 throughout Adelaide and regional South Australia. “The 2014news flowed in that leading American wine journal The Wine Tasting Australia event will focus on ‘Origins’ and the enjoyment of ourAdvocate had anointed the wine with the perfect score of 100 huge choice of eating and drinking experiences,” Bignell said. “Foodpoints. Soon afterwards the recommended wholesale price and wine contributes $15.4 billion to South Australia’s economy andwas allegedly increased making the retail price around $785 a is a major drawcard for visitors to our state, and Tasting Australia willbottle. On April 5, an imperial of the as-yet-unreleased ’08 sold highlight all we have to offer. Renowned local chef Simon Bryant andfor $59,570 at the Rare and Distinguished Barossa Wine Auction, wine expert Paul Henry will lead Tasting Australia’s creative direction,held in conjunction with the Barossa Vintage Festival. Only six with food legend Maggie Beer as festival patron.imperials of the ‘08 were bottled, with five given to charity andthey are expected not to be auctioned for years, during whichtime the wine’s stocks are sure to rise further. All of the headyrecord breaking excitement led the Penfolds to declare that thehigh auction price would only add to the wine’s “rarity”. The pricemay indeed go even higher with the Asian market set to snapup the bulk of the ’08 release. Other big ticket items donated tothe Barossa auction by the company were a bottle of Bin 60A1962 Coonawarra Kalimna cabernet shiraz that went under thehammer for a record $7475 and a bottle of 1976 Koonunga Hillshiraz cabernet going for $483. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 19

briefsALTERNATIVE BRANCHING OUTSUCCESS FORMER Balgownie Estate winemaker Justin Lane is the co-ownerWAYWOOD Wines has of a new Adelaide wine bar called Cantina Sociale. The cute littlebecome the first McLaren bar on Sturt St serves a bar menu along with a range of interestingVale winery to release a wines poured straight from the barrel. The plan is to source tinymontepulciano from the parcels of fruit that will never be bottled or sold commerciallyregion - yet another sign of and to serve them directly to the punters along with snacks likethe growing importance of anchovies, jamon and artisan cheeses. So far it’s proving a hugealternative varieties. Hype success. Another wine industry figure branching out is formeris building around the Italian Marque sommelier Peter Healy, who is hosting wine and artvariety in McLaren Vale, matching evenings in Melbourne. The series of informal fun andproving successful in the educational evenings began in June, featuring Peter Healy, with avineyard and producing history of creative vinous thinking, and contemporary artists. Eachlight, easy-drinking wines, artist showcases a piece and Healy matches a wine to the artwork,as well as having the connecting the two via weaving a story - both in and around thepotential for fuller styles with age. “Our 2012 montepulciano art and the wine. An intimate group hears both artists discussis a lower alcohol and lighter style of wine,” WayWood their piece and in turn their “story”, as wine and art are entwined.winemaker/owner Andrew Wood says. “The vine itself is both There is no winery sponsor or supporter, so each session’s winesheat and drought tolerant so it can cope with McLaren Vale’s are chosen completely on merit and suitability, and not due to anyheat spikes, and not needing as much water is certainly a contrived relationship. “Unlike food and wine matching, the excitingdrawcard for growers.” At the June long weekend Sea & Vines, thing about this is that you can consume and be consumed by bothfestival goers were treated to the first glimpse of WayWood’s at the same time,” says Healy. The events are held at Franque,2012 montepulicano. It is the latest release in the boutique 811 High St, Prahran, Melbourne. For ticket sales or future dates;winery’s varietal range, which began with tempranillo and phone (03) 9509 9003 or email [email protected] sits alongside its sangiovese cabernet, cabernet franc,nebbiolo and pinot grigio. Wood has a minimalist approach BRUSHING UP ONto winemaking, using limited yeast and additives in the ENVIRONMENTAL CONCERNSproduction of WayWood wines, a brand he created with hiswife, Lisa Robertson, four years ago following six vintages WHEN it comes to care of the environment, Australian winemakersspent at Kangarilla Road. and viticulturists are doing more than ever to minimise their footprint on the land and from their wineries. “One of the many reasons we moved to McLaren Vale wasbecause it was the perfect location to grow and enjoy alternative But can anyone claim to match Bordeaux producer Chateauvarieties, along with the thriving local food scene here, and the Smith Haut Lafitte which plans to turn its carbon emissions intomany small producers and great people to share the journey toothpaste. The unusual aim is to capture the carbon emitted duringwith,” he said. the fermentation process and turn it into bicarbonate of soda to be used in toothpaste. The winery says it produces a lot of C02 andEXTENDED HOURS wants to be like a forest and capture it.SYDNEY wine bar/restaurant For about 20 years, Victorian producer Brown Bros has also beenFix St James, a huge favourite capturing CO2 emissions during the three months of fermentationwith members of the wine – but for a very different reason. It keeps the gas stored in bigindustry, is extending its balloon-type bladders in winery ceilings for recycling to coveropening hours. Now five- wine in storage for protection against oxidation. Head winemakeryears-old, Fix has started Wendy Cameron says for the rest of the year Brown Bros buystrading on both Saturday in CO2 and nitrogen in cylinders to pump into the bag system toand Monday nights. Owner continue filling storage containers ensuring inert gas is always onStuart Knox says: “You can top of wine surfaces. “In making 45 wines, tanks cannot alwaysonly answer the phone and be full of wine,” she says.say no to booking requestsfor a Saturday so many times “Our recycling means during fermentation we do not have tobefore you succumb, but buy CO2 supplies from Melbourne, reducing transport costs andwith two young children at helping look after roads.”home the decision to open wasn’t taken lightly!” Fix St Jamesis at 111 Elizabeth St, Sydney; phone (02) 9232 2767. It is now Bill Crappsley, WA Wine Press Club president, believes the industryopen for lunch Monday-Friday and dinner Monday-Saturday. would look at anything, including the French move to improve its environmental position, if affordable. There is a growing enthusiasm for all things green which has seen many producers already turning to solar and wind energy to generate power,” he says.20 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

14 – 16 FEBRUARY 2014, ADELAIDE CONVENTION CENTREExplore hundreds of wines from 13 iconic South Australian wine regions at themulti-award winning Cellar Door Wine Festival Adelaide in the heart of the city.Enjoy complimentary wine and food tastings, masterclasses, celebrity chefsand more! Tickets on sale from November 2013.Visit www.cellardoorfestival.com for full program details

nzbriefswhat’s happening on the NZ wine sceneDELEGAT’S SNAPS DESCENSIONUP BAROSSAVALLEY ESTATE ASCENSION, one of the best-known producers in the Matakana district, north of Auckland, is in receivership. Lying right at theDELEGAT’S Group, NZ’s entrance to the Matakana Valley, Ascension’s handsome, Spanishsecond-largest wine producer mission-style winery restaurant is hard to miss. Since opening in- behind Constellation NZ - 2000, about 50,000 visitors a year have reputedly poured in for wineand owner of the Oyster Bay tastings, meals, weddings, conferences and concerts. Founderbrand, has acquired Barossa Darryl Soljan, whose uncle, Tony Soljan, runs the Soljans winery atValley Estate from its receivers Kumeu, in West Auckland, planted a 5ha vineyard and made winefor $A24.7 million. Managing on-site, while also drawing grapes and wine from further afield.director Jim Delegat (pictured) “The wine and hospitality sectors are tough businesses to operateviews shiraz and cabernet profitably unless you start with a significant capital base, and startingsauvignon from the Barossa out in our early 20s, we didn’t have that,” says Soljan. “Over the years,Valley as complementary to as the business grew, I became more focused on management andhis firm’s hugely successful less on what I love - working on the vines, winemaking and talkingOyster Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Assets acquired include to my customers.” The total vineyard area is declining in Matakanaa 41ha vineyard in the heart of the Barossa Valley, a modern and the adjacent Mahurangi district. By far the biggest producer,5000-tonne winery, wine stocks, and the Barossa Valley Estate Matakana Estate, and its sister company, Goldridge Estate, wereand more up-market E&E brands. “What we would like to bring to placed in liquidation in 2010.South Australia is additional investment in vineyards,” says Delegat.“We would like to develop our grower supply base and of course NEW ZEALAND’S MOST EXPENSIVE WINElook at how we can reposition the BVE brands and turn them intoa powerful offering.” Listed on the NZ stock exchange, Delegat’s CURRENTLY on sale at aGroup is majority-owned by the Delegat family. The group reported whopping $NZ250 for a halfsales of 1.09 million cases in the six months to December 2012, bottle (375ml), Vinoptima Noblewith a profit of $NZ19.3 million, well up from $NZ14.7 million in the Ormond Gewurztraminer 2007same period of the previous year. Delegat’s purchased the winery is New Zealand’s highest-and vineyard assets of Matariki, in Hawke’s Bay, in January for priced wine. Estate-grown$NZ8.5 million. It is also looking to buy bare land and vineyards in Gisborne by Nick Nobilo,in Marlborough, to supply its soaring demand in North America. formerly head of Nobilo Wines,Oyster Bay is now the biggest selling sauvignon blanc in New York. it shows great richness and beauty. The raisined grapesKIM GOLDWATER TELLS HIS STORY were handpicked at 38 brix in early winter (mid June, whenON a hillside on the south-west coast of Waiheke Island, Kim the vines were completely bareGoldwater, a former engineer and fashion photographer, and his of leaves) and the wine waswife Jeanette in 1978 planted their first experimental vines in sandy fermented and matured for 11 months in a large (1200 litre) Germanclay soils. When their first, 1982 vintage cabernet sauvignon was oak oval. Golden, with a lovely surge of honey, apricot and spiceacclaimed as one of NZ’s finest reds, it triggered the emergence of flavours, it is notably concentrated, with abundant sweetness (180g/Waiheke, in Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf, as an island of fine wine. Now litre of residual sugar) and good acid spine. Oily and complex, within his mid 70s, Kim Goldwater has written and self-published an a lasting finish, it’s a drink-now or cellaring proposition.“unexpurgated memoir of a passionate pioneer winegrower”, VineyardVirgins (Putiki Press, $NZ44.95). Goldwater writes competently and Other highly expensive NZ wines (all in 750ml bottles) includeoften amusingly, tracing the winery’s rapid growth via Marlborough Church Road Tom Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot ($NZ150); Churchsauvignon blanc, export and merger, and offering anecdotes about Road Tom Chardonnay ($NZ100); Clearview Endeavour Hawke’swinemakers’ sex lives and the boozy antics of merchants. The Bay Chardonnay ($NZ140); Craggy Range Le Sol ($NZ100); Destinywriting has a self-congratulatory tone and some sections of the book, Bay Magna Praemia ($NZ330); Esk Valley The Terraces ($NZ125);obviously written several years ago, needed revision. However, at Martinborough Vineyard Marie Zelie Reserve Pinot Noir ($NZ180);nearly 300 pages, with lots of photographs but no index, the book Puriri Hills Pope ($NZ120); Providence Private Reserve Merlotoffers a substantial record of the Goldwaters’ “whole crazy adventure”. Cabernet Franc Malbec ($NZ120); Stonyridge Larose ($NZ200) and Trinity Hill Homage Syrah ($NZ120).22 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPER SAUVIGNON SECRETSSAUVIGNON blanc from Marlborough is degree of typical herbaceousness and style, according to Dr Frank Benkwitz,riding high in world markets but there’s acidity.” Not everyone adores it. “A lot who studied samples from around theabsolutely no room for complacency, of winemakers in California can’t believe world. However, Goode reports that Draccording to Dr Chris Winefield, of the anyone can actually drink the stuff they Benkwitz found the Marlborough wines toAgriculture and Life Sciences faculty at make in New Zealand,” says Nick Adams, be “consistently” high in methoxypyrazinesLincoln University, near Christchurch. The an English wine merchant. But in the and to harbour “unusually high” levels ofregion must evolve. “If it stands still, it is UK, since the early to mid-1980s, the thiols. Thiols and methoxypyrazines are thedead because people elsewhere will be response from the press (at first), then “impact” compounds in sauvignon blancable to produce Marlborough-like sauvignon the trade and finally the public has been aroma, says Goode. “Methoxypyrazine isblanc… I don’t think that what we have here hugely enthusiastic. “Where other wines quite different to thiols in that it is presentis necessarily tightly linked to terroir: it is not conducted themselves with the demeanour in the grapes, survives fermentation andspecific to Marlborough,” Dr Winefield says. of a svelte ballet dancer,” declared Wine then is quite stable during bottle aging… magazine in 2000, “Kiwi sauvignons In contrast, the thiols are formed by yeasts Two out of three bottles of sauvignon shouted from the rooftops with their pure, during fermentation from precursorsblanc sold in Australia are from NZ. unadulterated fruit-driven flavours.” present in the must, and are susceptible toSauvignon blanc has also edged ahead oxidation in the wine after bottling.”of chardonnay and pinot grigio in the Why is sauvignon blanc, a traditionalUK to become the most popular white- variety of Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, so If Marlborough sauvignon blancswine variety in the off-trade - and NZ successful in Marlborough? Close proximity have especially high levels of certaincommands a 50 per cent share. The value to the sea is a critical factor, keeping the thiols, is that the key to their distinctiveof the country’s sauvignon blanc exports summer heat in check. Marlborough’s clear style? Recognising that thiols are of vitalis almost $NZ1 billion. Dr Winefield is skies are also crucial, giving the grapes importance to sauvignon blanc aroma,quoted in The Science of Sauvignon not only long hours of sunshine in which the researchers are trying to define theMarlborough’s clear skies are also crucial, giving the grapes not only long hoursof sunshine in which to ripen but cold nights to preserve their fresh, intensearomas and flavours, and appetising acidity.Blanc (Flavour Press, $NZ33.85), by UK to ripen but cold nights to preserve their precursors and then “work out what stepswine writer Jamie Goode, who has a PhD fresh, intense aromas and flavours, and in viticulture and processing the fruitin plant biology. The book, published in appetising acidity. The herbaceous, fresh- (for example, harvesting and pressing2012 as part of NZ Winegrowers’ levy- cut grass aromas and flavours so intense in conditions) influence their level in the must.funded research program, is based on Marlborough sauvignon blanc are derived It is also important to work out the rate of“a six year multidisciplinary research from methoxypyrazines. The threshold conversion of precursors by specific strainsinitiative that explores the key aroma and at which tasters are able to detect these of yeast during fermentation”.flavour compounds in sauvignon blanc compounds (one or two parts per trillion) iswine and how they relate to viticulture equivalent to finding one berry in 500,000 What do Marlborough wine professionalsand winemaking”. Goode has pulled tonnes of grapes (almost double the entire look for in sauvignon blanc? Dr Wendytogether, in a slim, 134-page volume, the New Zealand harvest in 2012). “Sweaty Parr found most want “a green spectrum,enlightening findings of numerous MSc armpits” is another, less common character a fruity/ripe spectrum, boxwood (whichtheses and doctoral dissertations. found in Marlborough sauvignon blancs. didn’t necessarily come into either green or The tropical characters in sauvignon fruit), and some complexity. They wanted What does a typical savvy taste like? blanc mainly come from volatile chemical the flavours to be balanced with acidity.”“To have good Marlborough sauvignon compounds (thiols) in the wine, which, at Boxwood, a genus of shrubs and trees, hasblanc, you need both a ripe and an unripe high levels of concentration, can impart an odour described variously as “resin-character in the fruit,” believes Dr Mike strong, “sweaty” aromas. like”, “musky” and “cat urine”. “The greenTrought, senior scientist at Plant & Food just has to be there,” Dr Parr stresses. “YouResearch. “You need that passionfruit/ None of these compounds are unique can have less fruit and get away with it buttropical character and you need a certain to the Marlborough sauvignon blanc the other way around didn’t work…” September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 23

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWVINTAGE PORT ALL THE RAGEEUROPE is in a bit of a tiz over a hugely years, before being bottled, ready to when compared to top flight red Bordeaux,exciting vintage port declaration for 2011. drink. Tawny ports are also bottled ready but it does need that decades-longVintage port comprises only about one to drink. They are aged for so long in cellaring, and folk are perhaps less patient.per cent of total port production and it is wood that much of their colour precipitates But at a time when Bordeaux 2012 vintageonly “declared” - made, in exceptional (hence tawny), and generally they are is not selling well, port producers havevintages, and it is announced about bottled as 10-, 20-, 30- and even 40- year- been hoping they may reap the benefits of18 months after the harvest. Typically old wines, the number being indicative of that. The vintage is of an exciting enoughdeclarations are made about three times a the number of years the wines have been high quality to give them a good shot.decade. In recent times, these have been: maturing in wood.2007, 2003, 2000, 1997, 1994, 1992, 1991, CONSUMPTION AHEAD1989, 1987 and 1985. Vintage port is about the only style OF PRODUCTION that’s bottled before it’s ready to drink. Adrian Bridges, managing director of It’s also a blend from different vineyards, Notwithstanding its value, vintage port isthe Fladgate Partnership, which owns but from that critical, outstanding, single an esoteric beast. At the more quotidianbrands such as Taylor’s, Fonseca and vintage. It matures in wood for only a end of the wine market, smaller recentCroft, explained what made it such a good couple of years, and is bottled as a harvests are seeing a tightening ofvintage: “while it wasn’t always easy, and dense, dark, concentrated yet plush wine supply. Indeed, Rabobank, anit was a small vintage”. “A warm spring liquid, typically redolent with berries and international food and agribusinessafter a good, wet winter accelerated bramble, chocolate, smoke and a velvet- financial services provider, reported thatgrowth. A cool, dry season followed, glove grip, which is often too easy to taste globally, wine consumption has beenwith drought, apart from a few (critically in this state. Patience is a particular virtue ahead of wine production for the last siximportant) showers, from May to harvest, with this product as it needs cellaring years. Prices of wine rose sharply last year.which favoured old vines” with their greater typically for 10 to 50 years. Within Europe, the report focused on the growing Russian market, which is the fifth-A generation of consumers has become accustomed largest wine importer in the world, mainlyto getting great deals on everyday wines because taking wine from Spain, Italy, France andthere’s been so much sloshing around. Ukraine. There may be opportunities for new world countries to plug the gap leftconcentration of flavours and tannins. At As in champagne, house style is an by declining production in the traditionalthe end though, he added, fruit needed to important attribute of port shippers’ ranges. European heartland of wine growing. Butbe brought in quickly to preserve its acidity. Vintage port doesn’t come along so prices are going up everywhere, which often, so what makes it special? Bridges looks like it could knock on across the The wet winter is a crucial quality said it comes down to mouthfeel, “for world, especially as new world harvestsparameter. Summers are typically dry vintage port we’re looking for weight, in 2013 don’t seem to have been hugelyand hot in Portugal’s Douro valley, but the complexity and presence in the mouth, increased. Another short harvest in Europeschist soils can retain plenty of water at with structure, depth and volume going would not just affect the price-sensitivedepth, to be drawn on by the vines.The right across the palate”. He added: “we Russian market, but looks as though it2010/2011 winter rainfall laid the foundation want seducing, silky tannins, with the might create shortage in the global system.well. As well as being the pinnacle in oomph to go the distance” in bottle. The Rabobank has estimated that stocks ofterms of quality, vintage port is made a Fladgate Partnership’s winemaker David wines are already 40 per cent below theirbit differently. Most ports, including the Guimaraens emphasised vintage port highest values of 2006. A generation ofeveryday ruby ports, are aged in wood, needs “firmer tannins of higher quality. It’s consumers has become accustomed totypically big and old, and are blended from that combination of silkiness and firmness”, getting great deals on everyday winesseveral vintages. again having long bottle age evolutionary because there’s been so much sloshing capacity as an important objective. around and producers have been willing Late-bottled vintage (LBV), while being to do deals. A global shortage wouldthe product of a single vintage, is blended Vintage port is not a hugely trendy wine, require the wine market to redefine itself,from different vineyards, and is still aged so it can still offer great value, especially and consumers to make a stark choice ofin big old wood, usually for four to six drinking less and paying more.24 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

DPORNE’MT SIUCMREWWIYNOEUSR!oTTAtApwofrhhmimonepwevoeorwiwimrodrnioimveoaemrikrmltddlhleedl’eraeesa’sksadtq.thoedusTtpreosaotshplqw.tifethiuTwynipenaodaaielpnnifcrotiaikeduynecrstidpkinaemtenrosiirunnodfutosvrrtitepreunm,mcsesvtotratameorflnkcoskreoctertntmerom,otkdtseitaaneehtnlnmoaketnlcsaeeitetnexwhondapedntliteeehreertmdecwmhtshbeaeonayitnxsrtoepdttAclmhoveehemgradontylmossuobtaraloayionvbmstdgtlatAeh.yldiupnemiasarnmcnooboeddrlvoreiunasmictipntnit.onrsdg.onoiodsvtfcouaectritnosin.ngwww.amorimcork.com.au

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY DAZZLED BY GRENACHERECENTLY I’ve come to appreciate the wines of Chateauneuf du Pape are aroma can range from ripe red fruitsgrenache. This came as a bit of a renowned for their complexity. Grown on such as red currant and raspberry or besurprise, as I’d always regarded it as its famous Galet (pebble) soils, it offers more spice driven towards white pepper.a second tier grape variety compared more complex rustic notes, leather, What I particularly want to see from goodto the likes of pinot noir, shiraz and pepper spice and the hand of oak comes grenache and GSM blends is a round,cabernet sauvignon. It has been a to the fore. Rosé made from the area can silky mouth-feel. It is all about texturegradual awareness as I found myself pack a punch. In the Southern Rhone and a velvet palate without being overtlyconfronted with it in a number of different you find the Tavel region famous for dry, warm and alcoholic.formats. I feel it has been stalking me. onion skinned coloured rosé made from grenache that can reach 13 per cent d’Arenberg estimate they own one-third But that is the beauty of grenache; alcohol and demand to be drunk with of the old bush vines in McLaren Valeit comes in all sorts of disguises. While food. Grenache is also behind the sweet and produce nine different wines withit can be a supporting act with shiraz or fortified wines of Rasteau, and in the a grenache component. d’Arenberg’stempranillo, you can also get seriously Languedoc-Roussillon region, the wines winemaker Chester Osborn runs meconcentrated mono-varietal wines from of Rivesaltes, Banyuls and Maury. through what is special about the oldancient bush vines, or drink it as a light rosé vines. “Grenache is very site sensitive.or a sumptuously sweet dessert wine in the In Spain garnacha was only planted The soil/geology and climate are allvin doux naturel style. It could literally see in Rioja after phylloxera went through major influences. Whilst the winesyou right through a meal. It is all about texture and a velvet palate without At one point the world’s second most being overtly warm and alcoholic.planted grape variety, grenache is notwithout its problems. In the vineyard it the region but it is now entrenched as character does vary from one year tois readily attacked by the light brown the supporting grape to tempranillo. But another, on the whole the old vines, if notapple moth and the vines are suckers probably the most famous region in Spain fertilised or irrigated, will devigorate andfor phomopsis. The thin skins produce for garnacha is the region of Priorat. This produce more soil influenced aromas,a lightly coloured wine, especially if isolated region in Catalunya is an hour flavours and tannins, possibly morethe vines are irrigated too liberally. The or so drive inland but you feel as though violet and spicy characters.”resulting wines can oxidise earlier than that you have gone back four centuriesother varieties. On the flip-side grenache in time. The landscape is dry and barren; “Young vines can also make very goodis a drought resistant variety that buds the villages are ancient. Old gnarled bush wine, but only at very low, uneconomicalearly and ripens late, so demands a good vines, planted at around 400m, were yields and if very devigourated.”old, long, Australian summer. brought back to life in the late 1990s. The Chester adds. wines, sometimes blended with cariena In Europe the grape came to (carignan) and cabernet sauvignon, McLaren Vale also has a range ofprominence in the Aragon Kingdom in are concentrated, rich with black fruits, sub-regional nuances. “The warmerSpain and moved north and east. In licorice, spicy and laced with French oak. southern part produces slightly moreFrance it is an important grape variety Try Agnes de Cervera’s Lytos. For more oily thick grenache with less length,”in the vast Languedoc-Roussillon region reasonably priced Spanish grenache try Chester believes. The sandier soils aroundand in the Rhone Valley. It is also found the region of Montsant and the wines of McLaren Vale town and flats produceon the island of Sardinia where it is Celler de CapÇanes. fruity gritty structure and often a “sootyknown locally as cannonau. earth” character, he adds. “North of the Moving back home, grenache excels in town the wines become bold, gutsy and Cotes du Rhone is where grenache is the McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley as solid, whilst Blewitt Springs produceschiefly planted and the styles of wines well as tiny enclaves such as Ferguson more perfumed wines with a violet noteare immense. Often blended 50/50 Valley in Western Australia. Grenache, and long, fine tannins”. Which only goeswith syrah we are seeing attractive, shiraz mourvedre (GSM) blends are to show, when you scratch the surfacemedium-bodied, red fruit-driven wines popular in all three. Generally grenache there is a lot to explore and love about thisthat are glug-able and well made from beautiful variety.this vast appellation. Simply go out andbuy Etienne Guigal’s sub $20 offering tosee what I mean. At a higher price point26 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013



winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGTHE ULTIMATE WAKE - TOASTING DARK TOURISMSO-CALLED morbid or dark tourism is For foreigners the most famous grave in Germany and London for his beer-nothing new. In Victorian times entire in the largest cemetery in Paris belongs drinking ability. Pub-crawling was afamilies visited cemeteries to enjoy the to Jim Morrison, the live-hard-die-young favourite after-dark activity and Marxfresh air, peaceful surroundings and the lead singer of The Doors, who died at the developed a taste for stout. Mackesongreat views so many of the world’s most age of 27 in a similar fashion to Whitney or Guinness - take your homage choice.famous graveyards enjoy. They often Houston - a drug overdose in the bathtub. Ifbrought picnics and toasted the spirits of you are celebrating his short and dramatic Like Pere-Lachaise, Highgate becamethe dearly departed with a glass of ale or life, only his favourite drink will do - Jack a very fashionable place to be laid toa flute of champagne. Daniels Black Label. rest, as grandiose monuments such as the Circle of Lebanon and the Touring cemeteries and graveyards But it’s a real tragedy to see so many Egyptian Avenue in the West Cemeteryhas become more popular than it was in tourists walk past the graves of some of clearly show. Nicknamed “the Victorianits 19th century heyday when cemeteries the most famous Frenchmen and women Valhalla”, whispered tales of occultwere often used as impromptu seance of the past 200 years without so much as ceremonies and the so-called “Vampirevenues and the Twilight/True Blood a second look. The grave of Oscar Wilde of Highgate” titillated Londoners from theeffect isn’t the main reason. The fact that is another mega draw for visitors. Wilde 1960s to the late 1980s and the oldestwe’re all destined to make the same final had a serious champagne fetish and part of Highgate Cemetery is off-limitsjourney also plays a part in dark tourism’s ordered an 1874 Perrier-Jouet upon his except to tour groups because of thecontinuing appeal. But I think that one of release from Reading prison. If you can’t accompanying desecration entailed inthe major reasons TripAdvisor members afford the same gesture, take inspiration pagan rites.and bloggers regularly list the famous from one of his most famous quotes –gravesites they would most like to visit “Iced champagne is a favourite drink of The extravagant tomb of Karl Marx is instems from a sense of respect for lives mine - against doctor’s orders”. the East Cemetery. Famous names that can be found nearby include DouglasFriedrich Engels was the first champagne socialist - literally - but Marx wasfamous in Germany and London for his beer-drinking ability.well-lived. And, as in the 19th century, Some of the world’s greatest composers Adams, author of The Hitchhikerswhat better way to salute the great, the are also buried at Pere-Lachaise, Guide to the Galaxy, novelist Georgegood and the infamous than to pack a including Chopin, Bizet and Rossini. Eliot (although the gravestone readsgourmet picnic and to make a fitting wine Painters are also well represented Mary Ann Cross), noted actor Sir Ralphselection for the time and place. - Delacroix, Gericault, Modigliani, Richardson and Anna Mahler, daughter Georges Seurat and Camille Pisarro to of the composer, Gustav Mahler. Over in The most visited cemetery in the world name a few. Honore de Balzac, Marcel the West Cemetery, Sir Charles Cowper,is Pere-Lachaise in Paris. Named after the Proust and Gertude Stein divert a regular the premier of NSW who successfullyconfessor of Louis XIV, its administrators steam of literary fans to their headstones. campaigned for the end of transportationorganised one of the earliest marketing Hediard, the gourmet food shop on the to Australia’s eastern colonies, lies incampaigns in the funeral business when Place de la Madeleine, uses Pinterest close proximity to Charles Dickens’the vast resting place opened in 1804. these days to spruik the fancy foods you parents, John and Elizabeth, the greatTo encourage Parisians to book a plot, can stuff into a ready-made or hand- chemist Michael Faraday, Nobel Prize-Moliere and Jean de la Fontaine, two of picked picnic basket to take along for winner John Galsworthy and actressFrance’s literary giants, were reburied in an afternoon’s stay. Jean Simmons.Pere-Lachaise and a few years later thepurported remains of the star-crossed The “Jim Morrison” of Highgate Stop by at Bull in nearby North Hill,mediaeval lovers, Abelard and Heloise, Cemetery is Karl Marx, but more than a great brewpub that makes its own beerwere transferred here with much fanfare. 170,000 people are buried in London’s and stocks some great suds from topThe enterprising strategy paid off. Less than most famous necropolis. His friend independent breweries in the UK anda decade later, the number of “permanent Friedrich Engels was the first champagne Europe. Or check out the extensive rangeresidents” had soared to 33,000. socialist - literally - but Marx was famous of wines, champagnes and spirits at the28 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

Schott Zwiesel glassware imported exclusively by Australian Fine China. For further information please contact 1800 800 058.Highgate Wine Merchants, which alsoboasts one of the largest selections oforganic wines in London.World fame can be fleeting even wheneveryone knows your name. For years,the most decorated grave in Vienna’sCentral Cemetery was that of a 32-year-old Wehrmacht major who had beenkilled on the Eastern Front. My Viennesegrandmother would often comment - Howmuch he must have been loved - as weby-passed the tomb of Beethoven likeso many other visitors. It’s long beenrumoured that the great composer wasan alcoholic but DNA analysis of his hairput this long-held belief to rest a few yearsago. The Austrians claim to have inventeddessert wines in the early 16th centuryand Beethoven preferred sweeter wines.A Beerenauslese from the Burgenlandwould make a fitting vinous tribute.Some cemeteries are places ofextraordinary beauty such as CampoVerano, the biggest cemetery in Rome,where the statues and elaborate tombsalmost rank as museum-quality art pieces.A chilled Frascati from nearby Lazio withcheese will make you glad to be alive.Madrid’s Cementario de Nuestra Senorade la Almudena, where five million peopleare buried, including Fernando Rey, thecharismatic star of many of Luis Bunuel’smovies, is more awe-inspiring for its vastsize than scary. Bunuel loved dry martinisand even published his favourite recipe,so Rey must have enjoyed many a glass,too. Too difficult? I am sure the burly actorloved a good Rioja as well.There’s nothing like a bit of Gothichorror Ptooep,robveosktekanforiwssnofnoor fhfeisTarht.aeEledsgglaoarfss of the professional.Allanmystery and the macabre such as ThePit and The Pendulum, rests - or ratherdoesn’t - in the Old Western BurialGrounds in Baltimore where his ghost isabroad on many a night, according tothe locals. A stiff shot of bourbon mightstop the shivers of fear and cold. WINESTATE FEB 2013.indd 1 30/1/13 11:53:13 AM

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELANDRE L SIMON IN THE HUNTER VALLEYANDRE Simon began his tour of the The quartet then tasted two reds, a 1962 Stockhausen held sway as winemaker.Hunter Valley on December 21, 1963. The Richard Hermitage and a 1947 Henry III Simon had earlier waxed lyrical about a“four musketeers” - Rudy Komon, Neville Hermitage made by O’Shea. Again, Simon 1945 Lindeman’s Ben Ean claret, and wasBaker, Max Lake and Simon - as Simon was less than impressed. Both wines he probably hoping for another taste of thatliked to call them, were to spend three found to be “very dark, very big”, but with wine. He was especially pleased to face ahectic days visiting wineries. Simon later “greater power than charm”. The 1947 “homely and most welcome cold lunch”,recalled Lake’s “furious driving”. The first Henry III won two trophies and three gold prepared by Stockhausen’s young Newwinery was Mt Pleasant, “one of the more medals in its distinguished career. Zealand wife, because “it gave us the chanceimportant properties of Messrs McWilliams to taste a number of wines with food, which& Co.” where they were welcomed by Campbell Mattinson in his book The is always so much better”. Two white winesthe winemaker Brian Walsh - no relation Wine Hunter: Maurice O’Shea: The Man made from semillon from the same Ben Eanof the winemaker of the same name who who Changed Australian Wine (2005) vineyard, one of vintage 1956, the otherrecently retired from Yalumba. Simon was points out that O’Shea gave “personal 1963, seemed to meet with Simon’s approval.well aware of the importance and influence and informative names” to his wines: “they Both were “equally bright”, the older wineof the late, legendary Maurice O’Shea, having, as one would expect, more colournot only on the Mt Pleasant wines, but on Simon and his musketeers and body than the junior, but “no trace ofHunter wines in general. O’Shea had died approaching old age or oxidation”. Simonseven years before Simon’s visit. were then given another and his musketeers were then given another Ben Ean white, a 1961 White Burgundy made The first wines the four tasted at Mt Ben Ean white. from ugni blanc (aka trebbiano and, in thePleasant were a 1963 Victoria Riesling Hunter, white hermitage). This was, of course,and a 1959 Anne Riesling, both made refer to the vineyard they were picked very different from the two semillons, beingfrom semillon, not riesling, grapes. The from, or to a specific part of the vineyard, “more developed with a distinctive flavour,1963 wine, “born” in February and bottled or to the grower, or to a friend”. Several and a more mature wine than one wouldin June, was a “very pale but bright, light wines, among them the Henry wines, were have expected”.and fresh wine … with a discreet touch named after Henry Renault, the French-of sulphur”. Simon found the four-years- Australian chef and O’Shea’s great friend Simon’s acute palate was nextolder Anne to be “still light and fresh, and supporter, whose widow Simon had challenged by two Lindeman’s shiraz,but with no trace of sulphur”; Lake in his met at a dinner in Sydney. The Richard or hermitage as they were known in thebook Classic Wines of Australia (1966) wines came from Tyrrell’s vineyards. The Hunter, one, a 1961 Cawarra Claret,called this a wine “of great character Victoria and Anne wines were possibly the other a 1954 from Rose Hill. Simonand bouquet, with the true Hunter white named after royalty. observed that the difference in theirflavour”. Walsh noticed Simon’s apparent ages was less apparent than one wouldlack of enthusiasm for both wines and so From his published notes it would have expected, the nine-years-old winepoured a 1957 “Rhine Riesling”, a true appear that Simon did not taste any of showing no sign of old age, and theriesling which had been frozen, filtered the other Mount Pleasant wines, made younger wine being “absolutely free fromand bottle-aged for nine months. Simon in much smaller quantities from grapes, any nursery days’ tartness”. But he foundapprovingly noted that it had “more colour, including cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, the flavours quite different. Simon wiselymore body, more character, hence more gewurztraminer, picpoul, white pinot, and put this down to the difference in soilsappeal”, and with some surprise added that montils and, up to 1962, aucerot, which was in the two vineyards. He was impressedit “even had a faint but attractive bouquet”. later discovered to be montils. with “the pride taken at all levels in theLake described the same wine as being good name of the firm and the quality of“outstandingly delicate”. Their next stop was at Ben Ean, Lindeman’s the wines” at Lindeman’s. main Hunter winery, where a young Karl30 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

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PINOT NOIRCENTRALExploiting its isolation, ideal weatherand soils are the driving factors behindOtago’s rapid growth.MICHAEL COOPEROTAGO HAS REPLACED WE CAN MORE “The strength of this model lies in the abilityGISBORNE as New Zealand’s third of our local producers to collaborate to tell CONSISTENTLY PRODUCE the regional story as a primary objective, andlargest wine region in terms of planted area, their own stories as a secondary objective,”according to the 2012 national vineyard HIGH QUALITY FRUIT, says James Dicey, president of Centralsurvey. The country’s southernmost region Otago Winegrowers. Some producers haveis dominated by the majestic inland basins YEAR AFTER YEAR, THAN chosen not to participate but the majorityand valleys of Central Otago but also has, including most of the famous brands,includes the remote Waitaki Valley, in BOTH BURGUNDY AND enabling the joint promotional approach toNorth Otago. work - brilliantly. OREGON, SIMPLY DUE TO This is pinot noir central. Marlborough boasts Climate, of course, is the fundamentala much larger area of pinot noir vines (2371ha, THE CLIMATE AND SOILS. factor in the region’s ability to produce suchcompared to 1375ha in Otago) but the great highly perfumed, flavour-packed pinot noirs.red-wine grape of Burgundy accounts for just people working in the vineyard, crafting the Central Otago’s vines are cultivated in the10 per cent of Marlborough’s total vineyard wine and selling the product. world’s southernmost wine region. At 200 toarea; in Otago, it’s over 75 per cent. Pinot over 450m above sea level, Central Otago isgris is by far the most widely planted white- Banding together for the common good also the country’s highest wine region andwine variety, followed by riesling, chardonnay has been a key thread in the success story of the furthest inland. Central Otago’s crucialand sauvignon blanc. A region of mostly tiny Otago wine, ever since the first commercialwineries, Otago has just five per cent of the bottlings, from four tonnes of grapes allcountry’s vineyard area but over 15 per cent processed at Ann Pinckney’s tiny Tarameaof the producers. Several of the smallest joined winery, flowed in 1987 under the Rippon,forces recently under the banner of Artisan Taramea and Gibbston Valley labels.Winegrowers of Central Otago. Definitionsof “artisan” wine vary but they are generally A decade ago, Central Otago Winegrowersunderstood to be linked to a specific vineyard, created a subsidiary, COPNL (Central Otagolabour-intensive and hand-crafted. Pinot Noir Limited), to promote the region and its enticingly scented, buoyantly fruity and The group’s six members - Auburn, supple reds. Since then, a host of influentialEllero, Georgetown Vineyard, Lindis River, figures in the wine trade and wine media haveLowburn Ferry and TOSQ - barely make visited Central Otago, and the growers have5000 cases of wine per year between them. regularly hit the road together, taking theirNo wonder, they have to do everything. The wines to domestic and international markets.same people that own the brands are the32 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

advantages are its cool, dry climate and several vineyard sites recently offered for “on the ground” in the valley - a lack of stafffree-draining soils, says Phil Handford, co- mortgagee sale by Rabobank and the continuity, and a lack of producer unity,owner of the much-acclaimed Grasshopper decision in April by the largest producer, have all been cited as issues.Rock vineyard at Alexandra. “We have much Pasquale, which established the onlyto thank the Southern Ocean and New winery in the valley, to sell up. Ostler, with its outstanding, densely packedZealand’s isolation from land masses for,” and silky-textured Caroline’s Pinot Noir 2010,says Handford. “In Central we don’t get hit “Small wineries rely on having a good backed up by very stylish rieslings and pinotby heatwaves, rain and hail storms, and wet proportion of direct sales, and our location gris, has demonstrated the Waitaki Valley’ssoils… we can more consistently produce really is in the middle of nowhere,” noted ability to produce striking wine. “Nobody ishigh quality fruit, year after year, than both Pasquale’s general manager, Renzo Mino. pretending that the region is going to beBurgundy and Oregon, simply due to the “Our pinot noir vines have only 20 per cent large on the scale of Central Otago,” saysclimate and soils.” of the yield found in Marlborough… The Dr Jerram. “There will be pockets of land third factor is the weather risk - (frosts) can that may just make fame and a living through The Waitaki Valley, inland from the city of wipe out a harvest every four or five years.” the production of some very special andOamaru, in North Otago, has about 130ha stylistically different wines.”of vineyards - less than 10 per cent of the Central Otago winemaker Max Marriott,planting in Central Otago. Predictions of Auburn, describes the Waitaki Valley’s Above: After night temperatures have plummeted toa decade ago that winegrowing would climate as “harsh, cold, marginal”. below zero, a hoar frost drapes plants surrounding aexpand swiftly have not been fulfilled, with Absentee ownership - Dr Jim Jerram, of dam in the Akarua vineyard with ice crystals. Ostler Vineyard, is the only wine producer OTAGO TASTING STARTS PAGE 126. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 33

DESERT DELIVERSTHE LATEST ASIAN WINE OFFERING TO ARRIVE IN AUSTRALIA IS ATTRACTING ATTENTION.DENIS GASTIN It’s hard to imagine anywhere that might is an abrupt, relatively warm but rainless represent a greater vinous challenge than summer: total annual rainfall is less thanTHE STORY BEHIND A WINE growing grapes and making quality wine in 100mm. But, fortunately, the Hansen vines the Autonomous Region of Inner Mongolia. But can be nurtured by water drawn from thecan be, for lots of wine lovers, almost as Chateau Hansen has risen to the challenge. giant Yellow River that separates the desertmuch a part of the appreciation package as plains of Kubuqi and Wulanbuhe.what they find in the glass. And the exotic In an Australian context, you’d have toand frequently quixotic stories behind the think Uluru: the Hansen vineyards are on Given these conditions it’s perhaps nocoterie of Asian wines that are starting the western edge of the vast Gobi Desert, great surprise that the first plantings atto bob up in traditional wine distribution near the city of Wuhai, the birthplace of Chateau Hansen, in the mid-1980s, werechannels present an entirely new frontier Genghis Kahn. On the one hand, this is an indigenous wild grape varieties, hardenedof discovery for them. advantage: with virtually no rainfall and with to the vagaries of local nature. Some are no prior tradition of cropping of any kind still growing and are used in the winery’s It has taken a long time to reach this it is free of common viticultural pests and basic dry red and dry white wines.point. Wine does have a long history in diseases. So, without the need for chemicalsome Asian countries but it is only recently pesticides, fungicides and herbicides,that locally produced wines in countries and relying on purely natural fertilisers -such as Japan, India, Thailand and China principally sheep droppings - Hansen is ahave converged towards the conventional naturally organic vineyard and winery (withinternational grape wine standards, and it China’s AA certification since 2007). It isis only in the past few years that such wines also using some biodynamic techniques.have begun to arrive in Western marketsand to be winning medals, even trophies, On the other hand, this location presentsin international wine competitions. formidable climatic challenges. There is nothing even remotely similar in an But an impressive wine from the Gobi Australian context. You would have toDesert? For even the most adventurous think much further south - no, not quite thewine explorers that would be an astounding Antarctic, but not far from it. In the winterdiscovery. The good news for them is that temperatures can drop as low as minus 30CInner Mongolia’s first winery, Chateau so the vines are laboriously buried betweenHansen, has now obliged. Furthermore, December and mid-April to be protectedthey won’t have to ride a camel to find it- it from freezing winds, ice and snow. Thereis now available in Australia.34 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

The owner of Chateau Hansen, Mr Han Jiang Ping. It was probably the same line of thinking Good results with their plantings of cabernet The scale of the operation, given itsthat led them to a variety known in China as gernischt, though, ultimately led Chateau very recent humble origins and remotecabernet gernischt as their next experiment. It Hansen to move more towards the mainstream location, comes as a big surprise. Theis not indigenous, but neither is it a conventional and plant cabernet sauvignon and merlot. winery now has 250ha of its own vines.classic grape variety. It is actually almost These varieties, along with cabernet gernischt, In addition, it is drawing on another 200identical in DNA-terms to the variety known now represent the core of the brand. Cabernet ha of vines under long-term contractsin Chile as carmenere. Both originated from sauvignon accounts for 40 per cent of with growers willing to operate inBordeaux: in China’s case it was brought in the winery’s total vineyard area, cabernet accordance with the winery’s strictalong with other European varieties, in the gernischt 30 per cent and merlot 10 per cent. quality (and organic) requirements1890s, for one of the nation’s pioneer wineries, Some recent experimentation has been done - some locally and some in theChateau Changyu, in coastal Shandong with white grape varieties and chardonnay neighboring provinces of Ningxia andProvince. As is the case in Chile, it is regarded has recently appeared as the only white wine Gansu, to the south, both of which arevery much as a local variety in China. under the Chateau Hansen label so far. rapidly expanding new wine frontiers. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 35

BRUNO PAUMAUD HAS NOW EMBARKED ONA STRATEGY TO MAKE A WORLD-RANKINGBRAND FROM THESE HUMBLE BEGINNINGS. In recent years the technical direction has location. He built a grand, European-style plantings, irrigation system development,been in the hands of Frenchman, Bruno “chateau” on the vineyard site to encourage scientific research, winemaking and sales.Paumaud, a distinguished sommelier and visitors to come and have a hands-on It is now employing 300 people across thewinemaker from Angers, in the Loire Valley. experience with this new concept. Since range of commercial activities it operates.He is supported by local staff, including 2007 it has been providing accommodation, The winery itself now has a capacity ofa chief winemaker who graduated from local cuisine and wine tasting experiences 20,000 tonnes per annum. Total annualChina’s leading wine training institute, the for winery visitors and tourists. To further sales had reached, by Chinese standards,North-West University of Agriculture and extend the local sales base the company has a formidable 400,000 bottles by 2010 butForestry, in Shanxi Province. opened 20 retail outlets in the Inner Mongolia have accelerated more rapidly since then, Autonomous Region. now exceeding 2 million bottles per annum. Owner Han Jiang Ping (the family name,Han, being the origin of the Chateau Hansen Chateau Hansen is now a very large- Accepting the inevitable limits to thename) has been determined to make the scale enterprise covering everything from immediate regional market, but not wantingwine industry a growth vehicle for this remote the cultivation of seedlings/cuttings, vine to hold back growth ambitions, the owners36 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

have extended the sales strategy in recent recommendation for the best wine of the Douglas Lamb Wines. Proprietor, Johnyears to tap into the burgeoning national competition from the panel I was judging Lamb, says he was looking for a wine frommarket for wine in China’s major eastern with turned out to be the Chateau Hansen China which represented quality and valuecities. Now, almost one-third of sales are Cabernet Gernischt, almost its first release. for money, and discovered Chateau Hansenoutside Inner Mongolia. All the judges were totally surprised, most at Vinexpo. He says the wines are already having only ever encountered this variety listed at some top-tier restaurants, and One of the winery’s earliest main frame previously as obscure offerings from wineries sales are building progressively throughappearances was at the 2010 Shanghai in China’s north-eastern Shandong region. retail outlets. They have also been positivelyWorld Expo, where it won a Millennium reviewed by Australian wine critics.Award. This followed a string of Gold and Recently the winery’s sights have shiftedSilver medals at the annual Asian Wine even higher. With the full encouragement of Up to this point, the market for super-Competition. Indeed my own first encounter Mr Han, Bruno Paumaud has now embarked premium wine in China has beenwith this wine was when judging at the First on a strategy to make a world-ranking dominated by the first and second growthAsian Wine Competition, in 2006, where the brand from these humble beginnings. Chateaux of Bordeaux. But Hansen now They exhibited at Vinexpo in Hong Kong, in has its sights set on this domestic market 2012, and, for the first time in Europe, at the category and just this year launched a London International Wine Fair in May this wine it has named Red Camel which it year. The wines have also won awards in says, will sell for €500 per bottle. It is international competitions, including three made from premium parcels of fruit from Gold Medals in the Asian Wine category at the winery’s oldest vines (around 15 years the Berlin Wein Show in March. old) and has been matured in 100 per cent new French oak barrels. There are 10,000 Exports contributed roughly 4 per cent bottles of the first release. of total bottle sales in 2012 - selling in Denmark, France, Holland and Japan. Opposite: Chateau Hansen. Above: Workers in Chateau Hansen’s Wuhai vineyards. In February this year, the two premium Below: The bottom tier photo is Winemaker Bruno wines in the company’s range became Paumaud and winery staff at work in the barrel hall. available in Australia. They are imported by Sydney-based premium wine importer, September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 37



SHIRAZ is shiraz texture is a desired result, Australia’s although the wine may distinctive gain a stewed meat, bayred and our most leaf aroma, which in lesserfamous offering to proportion is pleasant andthe world of wine. adds to complexity.OUR WORLD CLASSICPenfolds Grange is The mainstream stylea shiraz of course, of Australian shiraz has aand along with wines such as Henschke ANDREW CORRIGAN MW rich, soft, generous flavour. It is made byHill of Grace, Mount Pleasant, Tyrrells Vat well-ripened, luscious grapes, which areseries, Jim Barry “The Armagh”, Jasper pressed not too vigorously so that tanninsHill, Eileen Hardy, St Hallett “Old Block”, are soft. Fermentation is done in oak barrelsRockford Basket Press, Clonakilla, - often with American as well as French oak. American oak imparts a sweet vanillin,I AM LOOKING FORGrant Burge Meshach, Seppelt GreatWestern, Mt Langi and Wolf Blass SILKY OPULENCE coconut aroma as well as rich, soft tanninsPlatinum provides a formidable list which (compared to a cedar spicy flavour andis known internationally. firmer tannins of French oak). Shiraz is a name strongly associated BUT WITHOUT Shiraz shares with chardonnay the abilitywith Australia. The grape is known as to grow in a wide range of climates andsyrah (pronounced “sirr-ar”) in Europe HIGH ALCOHOL. produce high quality wine. It is easy toand elsewhere, and particularly its home grow, it delivers a good sized crop althoughin the Rhone Valley of France. In the 1840s it can be spoiled by rain at harvest time,Australian pioneer Sir William MacArthur and it is easy to manipulate in the winery.wrote Letters on the Vine and described It needs a climate with sufficient heat latethe success of “Scyras”, and noted that it and northern Europe. Well ripened shiraz, in the growing season to achieve ripewas cultivated in the celebrated Hermitage with its sweet raspberry and overtones flavours. Hence good shiraz is made inregion in the Rhone Valley and was of chocolate epitomised “the taste of regions as diverse as the Barossa Valley,“a hardy plant, produces well and seems sunshine” that established Australian Clare Valley and McLaren Vale of Southto be liable to no accident or disease”. wine, particularly at lower price points, Australia, Heathcote, Great Western,Jancis Robinson notes the ancient Middle in England. This success causes some Mornington Peninsula and RutherglenEast origins and a town called Shiraz in the producers around the world to use the in Victoria, the Hunter Valley, Canberrasouth east of Iran (ancient Persia). There “Australian” shiraz name rather than and Orange in NSW, Frankland River andare records of vines travelling from the syrah because they believe that mass Margaret River in WA, Tasmania and theMiddle East to southern France in ancient consumers recognise the shiraz label more Granite Belt in Queensland.history but no one is sure of a connection. so than syrah. Conversely in Australia some Shiraz is easy to make into a good wineThe syrah vine was well established by the producers look for a point of difference and but difficult to make great. Famous winetime of the arrival of the Romans in France. designate syrah on the label and wish to writer Jancis Robinson in her book VinesIt achieved prominence, which continues identify the taste of their wine as being the Grapes and Wine attributes this reasonuntil today in the northern Rhone region, Rhone style rather than the richer, Aussie as why it is not a more widespread grapeparticularly in the villages/sub regions taste. The Rhone Valley style has generally in the world. There are small plantingsof Hermitage, Cornas and Cote-Rotie. less richness, with background oak barrel in California, South Africa and southernHermitage has such a famous reputation flavours only. Often there has been the France but only in the Rhone Valley andthat it was adopted as a name for the fermentation of whole uncrushed bunches Australia has great, world-class wine beenshiraz grape in Australia until this practice of grapes and a lifted juicy cherry aroma is made. Good shiraz requires a speciallywas made illegal in the 1990s. the result. In cooler climates there is also selected site and drastically low yields. ThisAustralian shiraz has been extremely a pepper aroma. There can also be barrel latter requirement results in higher pricessuccessful in export, particularly in the UK ferment characters and a rich, silky, palate for intensely flavoured quality wines. September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 39

There has been criticism of mainstreamwarm climate shiraz for being too alcoholicand chocolate in flavour. The spicy cool-climate style has been seen as a simplecounter response. You might say that cool-climate shiraz “arrived” with the famousJimmy Watson Trophy at the MelbourneWine Show going to Glaetzer-Dixon MonPere Tasmanian Shiraz 2010. Traditionalregions for shiraz are fighting back.McLaren Vale has the Scarce Earth projectand the Barossa Valley promotes BarossaGrounds and Artisans of Barossa, and otherfocus points. In larger regions such as theBarossa Valley, McLaren Vale and HunterValley there is new interest in definingsub-regions and their unique flavours.Red wine maker at Penfolds, Adam Clay,comments that there is a lot of work goingon understanding sub regions and inparticular soil profiles. “We have beenproducing a Marananga Shiraz Bin 150since 2008,” he explains. In terms of currenttrends Clay comments: “In the Barossawe are still seeing vineyard developmentsuch as removing unprofitable grapeslike chardonnay and merlot, and thenreplanting of shiraz. There is also morefocus on clonal selection, with 1654 andthe Tahbilk R6 clone dominating. Thereis also more focus on producing premiumwines, with basically all vineyards nowtargeted at A and B grade so crops arelower, irrigation is lower, fertiliser inputs arelower etc. Picking dates still remain variabledepending on the winery and target winestyle, with some picking relatively earlysome very late and most somewhere inbetween. In the winery trends are for usingmore French oak, using less oak andmaking wines with less raw or extractedtannins so that wines are more accessibleand easier to drink at a younger age”. While Penfolds Grange and other iconAustralian wines are sought after by the

Chinese (and in 2013 a new edition of successful Bin wine by volume is Bin 2,the book The Rewards of Patience will be a blend of shiraz and mataro”.published in Mandarin for the first time) theattention by Chinese on wines of Bordeaux Hamish Seabrook, winemaker at Kirrihilland made of cabernet is often observed. Clare Valley and with experience atAussie shiraz will need more icons in order Bests Great Western and Brown Brothersto occupy the lofty positions with Chinese comments: “I am looking for silky opulenceand international buyers. but without high alcohol. I am using less oak and bottling earlier for fresher styles”. Orlando Clay comments: “I think shiraz has and Jacobs Creek winemaker Tony Hooperbeen a bit of a sleeper over the past few advises: “I am looking for an even silkyyears but it is what we do best, so I can medium bodied, not full bodied, style. Mostsee increased focus in the short term. of the work is done in the vineyard becauseThere is still a lot of experimenting in we want to avoid uneven ripeness and greenblending - using viognier (in a cool climate), seeds and skins that contribute harshness”.and mataro, grenache and cabernet (ina warm climate) in various amounts to Look for future examples of shiraz withcreate interesting wines. Penfolds most sophisticated, silky, complex flavours that are drinkable earlier.SHIRAZ (SYRAH) SUMMARYSyrah is the name commonly used by the French and many internationalproducers; shiraz is the main name used by Australians but the success ofAustralian shiraz in the UK wine trade has meant that some producers in Europeand elsewhere also use the shiraz name rather than syrah.Pronounced “sherazz”, (“sirr-ar”)The taste Wide range, but generally generous raspberry aroma and big soft palate shape; not as silky as pinot noir, not as tannic and long in palate as cabernet sauvignon.Food matching Big soft foods - roast lamb etcRegions Home is Rhone Valley, France; world famous examples from Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Hunter Valley, central/ western Victoria particularly Great Western/Grampians, Heathcote. Cold-climate areas achieving recent notoriety include Frankland River, Margaret River, northern Tasmania, Mornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley, Adelaide Hills, Granite Belt.Prices Low to very highReputation A satisfying rich, round flavour makes it a big favourite. The best examples are quite expensive. Can be marred by very high alcohol level (15 per cent and more). September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 41

PAUL MITCHELLA NEAR-DISASTROUS 2009 vintageconvinced Riverland winemakers Bruceand Val Bassham to take the biggestgamble of their professional lives. After more than 40 years of successfullygrowing grapes near Barmera, chronicoversupply left the couple with no contractsand questioning the future of their 40ha familyproperty, planted mostly to chardonnay.“We asked ourselves, ‘Do we sit here andgo broke, or do we do something while we’restill able to?’,” says Bruce Bassham. Theychose the latter and pinned their hopes onorganically-grown alternative wine. Around 11ha of their seven-year-oldchardonnay was top-worked and re-planted to mainly Italian alternativevarieties deemed suitable to the oftenharsh Riverland climate. After becomingfounding members of the RiverlandAlternative Wine Group in 2009, theBasshams were suddenly looking tovermentino, montepulciano, fiano,lagrein, petit manseng and nero d’avolaas their salvation. “We had no contracts, limited waterand drought,” Bassham says. “But withdetermination not to fail and many aquiet prayer, we pushed on - and it wasextremely tough.” So tough, in fact, thatthey were forced to rely on pumpkins tosurvive in 2010 because “there was buggerall in grapes”. Their new varieties were chosen after afact-finding trip to Victoria on a scorchingsummer day, with temperatures nudginginto the mid 40s. “It was pretty easy towork out which grapes were happy in theheat,” Bassham recalls. “On some vines,every bunch was burnt, then you comeacross a variety that’s sitting there as if it’sa cool day.”42 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

Bruce and Val Bassham walking through their vineyards near Barmera.September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 43

Fast forward to the 2011 vintage and the We find that the ChineseBasshams had grown a range of drought- and the Americans liketolerant Mediterranean varieties suitable that kind of flavour moreto the Riverland climate - and all organic. than the dry reds that we tend to put out. After some nervous pre-harvest moments,featuring approaches to “every winerywe could think of”, the entire crop waseventually secured to contracts withOrlando, Yalumba and Angoves. “Wewere a bit jumpy for a while there becausewe didn’t get any bites until about a weekbefore harvest,” Bassham says. “But it allpaid off.” In 2011 the Basshams also developedtheir own label - Bassham Wines - and laterthat year entered the Australian VarietyWine Show, held in Mildura. Bassham Wines Fiano and Petit Mansengboth received medals, before a moreconcerted push at the 2012 show saw themtake Best Certified Organic Wine (for theirgold-medal winning 2012 Lagrein), alongwith a further silver and two bronze medals. Bassham Wines also won medals at therecent Winestate River Regions tastings forSA, Victoria and NSW, namely for its 2012Lagrein (gold), 2012 Montepulciano (highsilver), 2012 Graciano (bronze) and 2012Fiano (bronze). Italian varieties clearly enthuse Bassham,whose voice lifts a notch when explainingtheir appeal, and that of his “rising star”,lagrein. “A lot of the Italian varietals aremore fruit-driven than the French,” he says.“A typical shiraz is quite dry, whereas ourlagrein is related to a shiraz, but has morecolour and a fruit sweetness. We find thatthe Chinese and the Americans like thatkind of flavour more than the dry reds thatwe tend to put out. It’s like ink in the glass.” For Bassham, the switch to an organicvineyard came about somewhat lessabruptly than the decision to “goalternative”, although the purchase of whatthe family refers to as the “new” propertyin 2000 facilitated such a move. “It hadactually been in the back of our minds foryears,” he says. “It only happened, though,because the new property was set up fororganics. It has scrub all around it, so

converting that property to organics wasan easier prospect than converting our“old” property. But I was always concernedabout conventional farming, with all thechemicals that are used these days. If Ithink back to after the Second World Warmost people in the Riverland were organicby default. It was really only after then thatchemicals started to come in.” The family’s association with grapegrowing began when “GrandfatherBassham” was granted land followingWorld War I. He was the first local “blockie”to own a tractor, but carted his grapesby horse and buggy. The present-day“Mr Bassham” operating the property leftschool at 15 to run the vineyard and 48years later has just about seen it all. “Ihave witnessed many changes in the wineindustry, from 12-hour days of hand pickingand pruning, to machines, to loading8 tonne trucks by hand to loading 30tonne trucks by tractors,” he says. “We’veseen furrow irrigation, open channels, allwith shovels, and now automated dripirrigation. We’ve also been through manychallenges. The vine pull, oversupply,drought, financial and water restrictions,and unfortunately many iconic Riverlandbusinesses vanishing.” The Bassham’s daughters and sons-in-law (Kelly and Jim Koumbarakos, Jodie andCraig Moore, Renae and Neil Bourton), andsome of their eight grandchildren are likelyto continue the family tradition of owningand operating the property. Despite alternative varieties driving therecent turnaround in family’s fortunes,Bassham believes a cautious approach isrequired over the next five years. “We can'tkeep taking risks like we did to start with,”he says. “We've got a few varieties thatwe’re planning to plant, we’ll slowly buildour brand and hopefully it’ll be there withthe kids to run with, especially if one of themwants to become a winemaker. “There’ll be successes and failures - therealready has been.” RIVER REGIONS TASTING STARTS PAGE 120.

A Lasting PETER LEHMANN’S LIFE-LONGLegacy AFFAIR WITH THE BAROSSA VALLEY SET HIM APART IN THEDAN TRAUCKI AUSTRALIAN WINE INDUSTRY.46 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

© John Kruger.September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 47

E ACH AND EVERY DAY son of a Lutheran pastor. His first job in the though most other people would have lost tens of thousands of us labour wine industry was working for Yalumba in plenty of sleep over it, they would have away within the Australian wine 1947 and then in 1960 he moved just down carried out their master’s orders so as toindustry as viticulturalists, winemakers, the road to Saltram under Brian Dolan. He keep their jobs. Peter, however, realisingmarketers, sales people and all sorts of stayed at Saltram until 1979; that was the year that if he stayed at Saltram would be forcedother jobs, yes, even accountants. Just that Seagram’s, at the time the largest wine to carry out Seagram’s orders and ruinonce in a very long while a person comes conglomerate in the world, acquired Saltram some of the grower’s lives, quit Saltram.along who is a giant among us mere mortals and told the management to make significantand who has a profound effect upon the cuts to its grape intake for the year due to the He created Masterson Barossa Vigneronsindustry and all those in and around it. glut the Barossa was experiencing at that Pty Ltd with the help of the long establishedThere have been but a few giants in the time. This glut eventually led to the South and influential Anders family. The namelast century; those whose names come to Australian Government’s Vine Pull Scheme was inspired by Damien Ruyon’s legendarymind are Maurice O’Shea, Colin Preece, of 1986-1987 where many of the Barossa’s gambling character Sky Masterson.Max Schubert, Len Evans, Wolf Blass and oldest vineyards were ripped out. Peter Masterson Barossa Vigneron’s first vintageof course Peter Lehmann AO. empathised with the plight of the growers, was 1980, with the glut in full swing and at the many of whom he had been dealing with for time most of the industry pundits predicted Peter passed away on June 28 this year nearly two decades, and could not accept that the company would fail. Initially, theaged 82. In those 82 years he accomplished the corporate policy. crush, which was around 8000 tonnes, wasmore than most of us could have done in sold as bulk wine to other wineries as soon182 years. Starting out life in 1930 as just So here is where Peter began to do things as possible after vintage. Rumours aboundedanother kid from Angaston, Peter was a differently to mere mortals and took his first about how tough things were for the fledglingfifth-generation Barossa German and the steps towards becoming a giant. Even business and that they were about to fold; butHE USED TO MEET THEM AT THE WINERY’S WEIGHBRIDGE DURING VINTAGE TO HAVE A SCHLUCKAND A NIBBLE OF BAROSSA SMALLGOODS WITH THEM AS THEY DISCUSSED THE VINTAGE. Ian Hongell, Andrew Wigan & Peter Lehmann.48 W I N E S TAT E September/October 2013

Left: Margaret, Doug & Peter Lehmann. Right: Albert Schmidt with Peter laying the foundation stone of the weighbridge, 1979. Below: Barossa Bacchus Club Dinner, from left - Bernie Mattiske (slightly hidden), Colin Gramp, Peter Weste, Peter Lehmann, Mark Hill-Smith and Ted Cox (visiting dentist from Renmark).despite this it wasn’t long before the quality say: “The plan for Masterson Wines was to otherwise blasé retail trade when the winesof the wines they made had other wineries make wine from the grower’s grapes and sell were first launched. This was accompaniedknocking on the door to buy their wines. it in bulk so that we could play golf the rest of by a feeling of moral righteousness within the year”. It didn’t quite work out that way and some sections of the trade because by This was a very innovative and different it wasn’t long before some of the wines were stocking these wines they were supportingapproach at the time - today we are quite being bottled under the Masterson and Peter “little Aussie battlers” rather than the bigaccustomed to contract wine processing Lehmann labels for domestic retail sales. multi-nationals who were “busy buying upfacilities, they are everywhere, but this wasn’t I can remember the genuine excitement in the our wine industry” at the time.the case in the early 1980s. As Peter used to September/October 2013 W I N E S TAT E 49