Winestate Magazine July August 2021

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE &ORGANIC XICABECRNHEAT L&LEBNOGRDE EAUX FEATURING Chateau Mouton Rothschild Chateau Lafite Rothschild BWIOINDEYSN2A1M8ICtasted Yarra Yering Dry Red No. 1 Grandeur Wellington Pertaringa Tipsy Hill Wolf Blass Platinum Gralyn Estate THE NEW & PAULMARA ESTATES IMPROVED KNAPPSTEIN STANDING OUT IN THE CROWD Hahndorf Hill MARISCO HITS THE GREAT THE SWEET SPOT GRÜNER PARALLEL PASSIONS CRUSADERS! Reillys makes its mark July/August 2021 TRENTHAM ESTATE Vol 44 Issue 4 BEST BANG FOR $12.00 AUS (inc GST) NZ $13.00 SGD $17.95 YOUR BUCK US $17.99 GBP £10.95 EUR $9.95 China RMB100 HKD $120 CHF 15.00 plus River Regions • Adelaide Hills • New Releases • Recent Releases (NZ) Sweet White & For tifieds • Organic Wines • Nor th Island (NZ)

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NO.308 JULY/AUGUST 2021 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Marketing Debra Silver E: [email protected] Tasting Coordinator E: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW, Jane Skilton MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International We have to wash Winestate Publishing over 32,000 Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] wine glasses Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] each year ... Victoria John Ogden so you don’t have to. Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Subscribe to Australia’s Leading Wine Buying Guide 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. phone +61 8 8357 9277 or Copyright 2021 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, on-line www.winestate.com.au translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine- readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 3

contents JULY/AUGUST 2021 36 FEATURES 32 PARALLEL PASSIONS R E G U L A R S It's well known that a lot of 8 Briefs 24 PAULMARA ESTATES STANDING 17 NZ Briefs with Emma Jenkins MW OUT IN THE CROWD medicos end up buying a patch 18 European Report with Sally Easton MW of land and living out their vinous 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley Previously supplying a majority of fantasies. Often this goes hand in 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King their grapes to Penfolds for their hand with the quip that to make 48 Grapevine high end labels, including Grange, wine you need to start with a large 52 What’s it Worth? Paulmara Estates has decided to fortune to end up with a small 113 Subscription Form reclaim their fruit to produce some one. This is not the case when it 114 Aftertaste truly special wines under their own comes to Reillys owner/winemaker label, writes Dan Traucki. With over and cardiologist, Justin Ardill, W I N E TAST I N G S 21 years’ experience and both who masterfully combines these 56 Adelaide Hills being born and bred into viticultural passions of the heart. 60 Cabernet Sauvignon & families, owners George and Bordeaux Blends Mara Georgiadis, have wine firmly 36 THE GREAT GRÜNER 72 North Island (NZ) coursing through their veins. CRUSADERS! 78 River Regions 81 Sweet White & Fortified 28 MARISCO HITS THE SWEET Owners of Hahndorf Hill, Larry 85 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases SPOT Jacobs and Marc Dobson 94 Organic Wines border on evangelical with their 104 New Releases You know the saying when life dedication to the great Austrian 109 Best Value Buys under $20. gives you lemons make lemonade? variety of gruner veltliner. A Well, in the case of New Zealand proposition that's proved divinely winery Marisco, when your block of blessed for this successful sauvignon blanc gives you botrytis, Adelaide Hills winery, writes you make delicious sweet wine! Charles Gent. Emma Jenkins MW explores how this happy accident has turned 40 BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK into true winemaking gold for the Trentham Estate is unashamedly innovative company that features brands such as The Ned and The proud of its incredible value for King’s Series. money status and they definitely have the award-winning record to back it up, reports Rick Allen. 44 THE NEW & IMPROVED KNAPPSTEIN It might have gone through several changes of hands over the years but one thing that hasn't changed is the history and consistent quality of this well-known wine brand, writes Nigel Hopkins. Winestate Magazine 24 Issue Number 308 July/August 2021 For a complete list of what we tasted for this issue please refer to www.winestate.com.au Cover photograph photosiber 4 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021



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editorial WELL, THINGS ARE CERTAINLY CHANGING IN THIS EVER-ADAPTING COVID AFFLICTED WORLD and as such we have felt that we need to change along with it. For a start, we have for a long time been urged to change to a points-based system by some in the trade and by some consumers. As you may be aware this is a system developed by legendary American wine critic Robert Parker, who I came across back in 1982 when I launched the US Wine & Spirit magazine. He was genuinely respected as not being a critic who “runs with the hares and hunts with the hounds”. In other words, not selling or using his name or image to promote the same wines that he critiqued, which can be fraught with issues. This is the same mantra that we live by. Parker received worldwide attention when he called the 1982 vintage in Bordeaux superb, contrary to the opinions of many other critics. This immediately impacted sales in the US and his judging system was also taken up by the Bordelaise, who over the years have had a love/hate relationship with him and his Wine Advocate Publication ever since. He also developed his system because he believed that the various 20-point rating systems did not provide enough flexibility and often resulted in compressed and inflated wine ratings. This is quite ironic as many now say that the 100-point system has in fact become the ten-point system where critics, the trade and consumers demand ever higher scores. As I mentioned in one of my previous emails “94 is the new 90”. Also, our experience is that with panels of three expert judges the chances of all three agreeing on the same points score is about one in a 100. In 42 years of wine publishing, we have never had a “100-point wine” where all three judges gave it the perfect score. The closest that we ever got to this was when two judges gave a wine 20/20 and the third judge 19/20 which was for a Rutherglen Muscat. Food for thought! Having said that we bow to the marketplace but with the proviso that nothing will change with the credibility of our judging system. We will still judge all wines blind with panels of three judges, usually expert peer winemakers, with a sprinkling of MW’s and other Industry experts. We will still use the 20 points “International judging system” and give star ratings as before. The only change will be that we will add comparative points to each of the reviews for those that want to use them. The second point of interest in this issue is the great result we achieved for our annual Organic & Biodynamic judging. Beginning in 2014 when it was seen as a somewhat quirky outrigger, inhabited by hipsters and alternatives, it has rapidly moved on to a serious ever-growing segment of the wine marketplace. Clearly sustainability has moved from being just a term for ongoing financial security to now being used for soil and overall pasture responsibility with no chemical or limited chemical addition. It has now moved even further with a stringent certification system to make sure that wineries not only claim their status but are actually required to prove it through vigorous inspections. Certifiers like Southern Cross Certified and NASAA are doing a roaring business in this trend and making the industry accountable so that it can only improve from here on out. We are proud to be involved in this evolving shift and this year went a step further organizing a great relationship with the world’s biggest Organic & Biodynamic promoter, Millesime Bio. As a result, we were delighted to have an additional 70 wines from France, Italy and Spain entered, to add to our Australian and New Zealand entries. It also allowed us to change the name of the competition to the Australia & New Zealand International Awards competition, the biggest in the Southern hemisphere, with amazing opportunities for the future. So, after all this I also need to mention that there are lots more wines to consider in this issue, across numerous styles and regional judgings, plus some great stories on the relevant wineries involved. Get yourself a glass, relax and enjoy. Cheers! Your wine, our ports. Australia Export Customer Service Follow us on facebook, twitter and instagram. 1300 134 096 Major Sponsors and Supporters Peter Simic Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Editor/Publisher Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 7

briefs REALLY WILD car, but I am the one who is driving it, and I have an instinct for what feels right. I share that with the team so the car can be optimised. With FIRST, Barossa-based winemaker, Rebekah Richardson, winemaking, I’ll take a similar approach, and in this instance, Peter is worked on a collaborative winemaking project – Hear Me Roar the engineer. Pete and I work well together, and we want to challenge – to raise funds to assist in the career advancement of women ourselves to go out of our comfort zones to produce something in the Australian wine industry. particularly special.” commented Ricciardo. Now, she has embarked on even more “I grew up around wine, it’s in my blood. Along with my Italian heritage challenging work to help with rewilding, and my family’s love of sharing wine, my Dad is a bit of a hobby the reintroduction of lost animal species winemaker and I have been surrounded by the passion for wine since into natural environments. I was young. I’m quite a curious kid, I always love learning things, and wine is a true craft, and I want to get in and get my hands dirty and All profits from the sale of her newly make really spectacular wine that provides a unique perspective on launched Lucid Distilling “new world what fine wine is,” said Ricciardo. “And to be able to do this with St spirit,” based around a twice distilled Hugo’s Winemaker, Peter Munro, one of Australia’s best winemakers, wine base steeped in natural ingredients, is a real privilege. It also guarantees the wines will taste great!” will assist with this important work in environmental conservation. The March 10 St. Hugo press release which announced the move states that “Ricciardo’s involvement in the process will increase each “The reason we were drawn to rewilding year as his knowledge and experience in the wine industry builds.” as a focus rather than just conservation was that it seemed to encompass a Each bottle of the limited edition first release DR3 x St Hugo will be longer term, more sustainable approach individually numbered and presented in a premium gift box and is to the rebalance of nature,” she writes available to buy online through www.sthugo.com/dr3. in her Lucid Dreaming blog on www. lucidistilling.com NO BAROSSA BLUES Her Lucid Lime and Lucid Chilli Spirits THE annual Barossa Wine Auction shook off the COVID blues and are versatile in many cocktails and retail smashed all former records with sales reaching nearly $334,000. for $80 each. The decision to hold two live auctions, one in the Barossa and DRIVEN TO SUCCEED one in Sydney, conducted by the Langton’s brokerage team attracted a record-breaking number of lots – 160 – from more than AUSSIE celebrity wines are taking off. Kylie Minogue has her very own 50 Barossa wineries. Signature Rosé, Greg Norman has a range of wines from Australia, New Zealand and California. The Sydney event, MC’d by the founder of the Australian Women In Wine Awards, Jane Thomson, saw 222 invitation-only guests hosted Now, Australian Formula 1 star, Daniel Ricciardo has a collaborative to a gala dinner and live auction. Highlights of the night included a wine project on the go with St. Hugo to produce DR3 x St Hugo. The double magnum of Grange 2015 selling for $22,135, an imperial of first wines released are a Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ($65) Torbreck’s The Laird 2013 Shiraz topped $15,145, while an imperial and a Barossa Shiraz 2014 ($65). St. Hugo, based in the Barossa of Rockford 2010 Basket Press Shiraz sold for $11,650. Valley, is part of the Pernod Ricard Winemakers group. Long-time auctioneer, Andrew Caillard, MW, who has presided It appears that Ricciardo is serious about the new venture and plans over every Barossa-based auction since 1984, pronounced the to work with St Hugo chief winemaker, Peter Munro, to learn more about night “the best live auction I have ever presided over.” the winemaking process from the vine up. Funds raised will, in part, go to the Barossa Grape & Wine “I’m approaching the partnership in the same way I approach aspects Association’s Well-Being Fund which supports mental health initiatives of my racing. I may not be the engineer who physically finesses the for the Barossa grape growing and winemaking community. 8 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

briefs COVID CREATES CREATIVITY EXPORT REMAINS RESILIENT MANY things have changed due to COVID, some definitely for AUSTRALIAN wine exports remained resilient over the 12 the better. months to March 2021 despite the negative impact of high Chinese tariffs. With restaurants closed across the country last year due to state- ordered Lockdowns, Sydney wine importer and distributor, Andreas Exports declined by 4% in value to $2.77 billion in the 12 months Puhar at Enoteca Sydney, was forced to get creative. compared with the previous year, stats in Wine Australia’s latest Export Report reveal. Export volume declined by 1% to 724 million The result was an opening up of his extensive portfolio of wines litres (80 million 9-litre case equivalents) while the average price to the wine loving general public providing them with access to per litre for wine exports declined by 3%. one of the largest ranges of Austrian wines available in Australia. Wine Australia chief executive officer Andreas Clark said the Puhar, who was born in Vienna and has been living in Australia decline in exports was due principally to a steep decline in for three decades, has a veritable treasure trove of top wine names exports to mainland China as well as the cumulative effects of from major and emerging Austrian wine regions available on his three consecutive lower vintages in Australia, leading to less new website, www.wine4u.com. volume available to export. The direct to customer online wine shop has a broad range of \"Notwithstanding the impact of China’s tariffs, we were still wines from Australia and other parts of Europe, too. looking at a potential downturn in exports over this period simply due to the supply situation,\" Clark said. ACCOLADE BUYS UP BIG He said exports to China for the December 2020 to March AUSTRALIA’S second largest wine company, Accolade Wines, 2021 period were just $12 million compared to $325 million in has started the year in bullish mode. the comparable period a year ago. In March it purchased Barossa Valley winemaker, Rolf Binder, \"As the tariffs apply to product in bottles under two litres, the including the brand and its holdings. Not included in the deal decline in exports to China was mainly in bottled exports,\" he are The Magpie Estate and JJ Hahn brands. said. Rolf Binder Wines was placed on the market by brother and Clark said on a more positive note there had been significant sister wine team, Rolf Binder and Christa Deans. growth in exports to Europe (including the UK), which was up 23% to $710 million, the highest value in a decade. In a statement on its website the siblings said that the decision had been made reluctantly but in light of the fact that the next There was also growth to North America, up 5% to $628 million, generation was “moving in other directions,” it was decided to sell. and Oceania, up 7% to $112 million. The top five markets by value were: China, UK, US, Canada, Hong Kong. Accolade, for its part, says it intends to continue the Rolf Binder brand, retaining its “rich heritage and history”. Its acquisition follows the Accolade purchase of Katnook Estate in Coonawarra in September last year. Soon after the announcement on Rolf Binder Wines, Accolade Chief Executive, Robert Foye, signalled in a Financial Times interview that he was keen for the company to launch an Initial Public Offering in the next two to three years either on the Australian Stock Exchange or the Hong Kong Stock Exchange. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs HANDING OVER OF THE HOBS AT ALL SAINTS Gin is a product of monsoon season, when the heavy rain starts, crocodiles lay their eggs and barramundi are flourishing. It is ALL change in the kitchens at All Saints Estate in north-east also the time the fruit of the bush apple is ready to be picked Victoria with Kyle Ferguson stepping into the position of head from the trees. Each year, more than three tonnes of fresh native chef. Ferguson has worked under the tutelage of Simon Arkless ingredients – the green ants, bush apples and native yams – for four years and will now drive culinary offerings at Terrace are bought direct from communities throughout the Northern Restaurant, Indigo Food Co, Thousand Pound Wine Bar and Territory to be used in the spirits. St Leonards Kitchen. “Our Larrakia family started harvesting the green ants three Arkless, who has been at or four years ago and created the gin,” says Motlop, whose the helm of the All-Saints brother Shannon runs the harvesting operations throughout kitchens for eight and a the Top End. half years, is stepping down along with partner Cait “By employing local harvesters, we have been able to create Mitchelhill, who ran front of sustainable jobs for hundreds of Aboriginal people and their house. The couple departed payments flow back into supporting their communities, which on Mother’s Day. In his first is really what is important. year as head chef, Arkless achieved a hat from the “For instance, people never had a place to sell their bush Good Food Guide. apples, so we created a market for them with some restaurants, but the volumes have been very small. Now, with the creation Ferguson has a creative of our new Bush Apple Gin, we’ve been able to include them insight into food, loves in a commercial product and commit to buying a substantial creating new dishes amount from them every year.” and is passionate about regional produce. This Mighty Craft CEO Mark Haysman is excited about the potential change at Terrace comes of Seven Seasons, saying: “Seven Seasons is one of our after the recent funding fastest-growing brands, and the release of Bush Apple Gin announcement that All and Native Yam Vodka will further accelerate its growth and Saints Estates will receive $500,000 of funding support to brand awareness. renovate and expand visitor experiences. \"With extensive distribution throughout Australia already in A SPIRITED SEVEN SEASONS place, we have our sights firmly set on taking Daniel’s spirits around the world to shine a light on the incredible Australian FORMER AFL football star and indigenous food and beverage native ingredients we’re able to source. promoter Daniel Motlop is the man behind Seven Seasons spirits and their new Bush Apple Gin. Motlop is working with “With more ingredients becoming abundant at different points independent craft drinks collective Mighty Craft to take Seven during the Larrakia seven seasons, the potential is there to Seasons products to the world. formulate a full range of distilled spirits.” Bush Apple Gin is powered by native Australian botanicals and Seven Seasons Bush Apple Gin is now available. It can be is promoted as being \"perfect for a pink-hued G&T or for mixing purchased online and from all major national and independent in a negroni\". Larrakia Nation man, Motlop started with Green retailers for $100 (700ml). See www.seven-seasons.com.au. Ant Gin while a third release, Native Yam Vodka, is planned. “It was a dream of mine to create a company that celebrated the learning, culture and ingredients from the Top End,” says Motlop, who played a total of 130 senior games for North Melbourne and Port Adelaide in the AFL. “After the success of Green Ant Gin, a product I’d always wanted to make, it’s a natural progression to develop these new flavours and showcase what else my people have to offer.” The Larrakia people believe there are seven seasons, each one marked by either monsoonal rain, the arrival of dragonflies, the fruiting of native cherries or other natural cycles. Bush Apple 10 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

briefs TASSIE DEVIL SET TO EXPAND NEW WINES FOR ICONIC WINERY TASMANIAN vineyard Devil’s Corner has begun a significant Arguably Australia's most collectible wine, the 2016 vintage expansion of its award-winning east coast cellar door. of Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, was released in May and is already in short supply. Henschke Hill of Grace ($890) is a single- A popular stop along the Great Eastern Drive, the expansion will offer vineyard wine grown in a shallow alluvial valley just north-west locals and travellers a year-round destination with greater space and of the Henschke winery in South Australia's Eden Valley. The shelter to enjoy enhanced wine and food experiences overlooking the name comes from the beautiful Gnadenberg Lutheran Church site’s spectacular views. overlooking the ancient vineyard, where a congregation gathers weekly; Gnadenberg translating from German to ‘Hill of Grace’. Tasmanian architects Cumulus Studio have been re-engaged to ensure the originality and aesthetic of the current site remains while The oldest vines, known as the ‘Grandfathers’, were planted circa Anstie Constructions will manage the build. Cumulus Studio director 1860 by Nicolaus Stanitzki from pre-phylloxera material brought Peter Walker says the team are extremely proud of the new project from Europe, and are estimated to be just over 160 years of age. and are looking forward to continuing the environmentally conscious strategies put in place from the beginning. The vines are managed with organic and biodynamic practices and grow within the native landscape; an ecosystem of local “Cumulus are very excited to see the next stage of Devil’s Corner start grasses and flowering plants. construction,\" Walker said. \"It is highly satisfying as designers to see a place that we helped to create become so used and loved by visitors “My philosophy is a holistic one; to ensure that the created and locals alike. With increasing awareness of the role buildings play environment sits in a healthy balance with the natural environment,” in our environment, we felt it was important to continue many of the says viticulturist Prue Henschke. environmentally sustainable practices that we initiated at the beginning of the project - from material selection to prefabrication techniques.” This is the 59th vintage (55th release) of Henschke Hill of Grace. The Henschke family have also released the Mount Edelstone Devil’s Corner marketing manager Will Adkins says the expansion Shiraz 2016 ($220) alongside Hill of Grace and Hill of Roses 2016 will aim to cater for all seasons. ($415 and made from young vines). “Calm autumns, wild winters or warm summers, we have no control PINOT PALOOZA BACK ON TRACK over the weather,\" Adkins said. \"But with the new site expansion, we will be able to ensure visitors can experience the very best of Devil’s PINOT Palooza was the biggest pinot noir party in Australia Corner no matter the season. \"New and improved shelter areas as well and New Zealand until along came miserable old Covid-19. A as more casual spaces will help accommodate the increasing number nightmare period for event organisers like Dan Sims and his of consumers visiting the cellar door each year.” team at Revel Global meant no events in 2020 - a soul-destroying scenario. But in 2021 live wine events are back. A new cellar door tasting area will be dedicated to immersive wine experiences while an underground cellar will be the home of wine and \"After 12-month hiatus we are so looking forward to returning to food masterclasses, private functions and events. Long-term food Pinot normal,\" says ringmaster Sims. partners The Fishers and Tombolo will continue to feed locals and travellers with fresh seafood and wood fired pizzas, expanding the Revel Global has unveiled a list of venues and dates for wine food offering from their new and improved on-site kitchens. lovers keen for a pinot party. They include: Queen's Wharf in Auckland on August 6-7, Sydney on October 1-2, Melbourne During construction ‘The Little Devil Cellar Door’ will act as a on October 8-9 and Brisbane on October 15-16. All cities will temporary pop-up for wine sales, open seven days a week from April feature tastings on Friday evenings and Saturdays with limited to September 2021. See www.devilscorner.com.au capacity sessions for each. Friday sessions will run from 4.30pm till 8.30pm and Saturdays 11am-3pm and 4pm-8pm. The Melbourne festival will mark the 10th anniversary of the event. For details and bookings visit www.pinotpalooza.com.au/ July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs BOMBAY TO BECOME SUSTAINABLE CULINARY DREAM TEAM REUNITES THE team behind Bombay Sapphire Gin is on a mission to ensure A DECADE ago, Pete Little, Jamie Wall and Charanjit ‘Sunny’ their product is 100% sustainable by the end of the year. The Chawla worked together at the renowned Appellation restaurant aim is for Bombay Sapphire, distilled in England but owned by at The Louise in the Barossa Valley. the Bacardi group, to be the first major brand made with 100% sustainably sourced botanicals. Ten years on, having all built their own reputations, the \"dream team\" has reunited at Harvest Kitchen at Vine Vale, part of the After decades spent building sustainable partnerships with Calabria Family Wines cellar door building. farmers and suppliers, Bombay Sapphire has announced that all 10 of its botanical ingredients are on track to be certified sustainable Little worked at Appellation as the director of food and beverage, by late 2021. With the suppliers of eight botanicals already certified Wall was sous chef and Chawla was chef de partie. Little was a according to the For Life standard, the goal is for the remaining founding director of Harvest Kitchen - which previously shared the two producers – for grains of paradise from Ghana and liquorice space with Artisans of Barossa - while Wall is now head chef and from China – to be certified in the months which follow the lifting Chawla the sous chef. of travel restrictions. Bacardi has set 2025 as a target for sourcing 100% of all its key ingredients across the board from sustainably “I feel that the stars aligned and we have been able to bring the certified suppliers. band back together,” Little said. “We connected all those years ago while working at one of Barossa’s finest restaurants and working The ten Bombay botanicals include juniper from Tuscany, together again has been seamless – it’s as if no time passed at all!” coriander from Morocco, lemon peel from Spain and cubeb berries from Java, are selected by Ivano Tonutti to create the gin’s fresh, After spending years working under Mark McNamara’s watchful bright taste. The For Life certification is awarded by Ecocert, eye at Appellation, it came as no surprise that the team share a the world’s leading specialist in the certification of sustainable similar vision in the kitchen together. practices. “We can confidently attribute a lot of our confidence in the kitchen “We take a 360-degree approach to sustainability,” says to Mark, the man who’s use of spice was paramount and who’s Bombay's Ivano Tonutti. ”It’s our responsibility to care as much most frequent saying was ‘it needs more salt!’” Wall said. about the farmers and their communities as we do the botanicals they grow and harvest for Bombay Sapphire. “Sunny is like a brother from another mother and working together isn’t only fun, we also push each other to be better and to create \"By looking after their well-being and investing in sustainable better food.” farming practices, we are helping to protect the environment and their livelihoods for generations to come.” Harvest Kitchen’s menu is Mediterranean-focused. Located at 284 Magnolia Road, Vine Vale, it operates for lunch seven days a Sarah Nichols, Marketing Director for Bacardi ANZ, says: “Our week from 11:30am and for dinner on Saturday nights from 6pm. sustainability credentials are second to none and thanks to the team’s hard work we are reaching new heights. We are now hoping NEW NAME FOR JANSZ to inspire others to follow in our footsteps. It’s only if we invest in the environment as an industry that we can really move the needle.” PONTOS HILLS is the name of the new Jansz vineyard in the south of the Apple Isle, and also the new Hill- For details see www.bacardilimited.com/corporate-responsibility/ Smith family-owned winery that processed grapes for environment/ the first time this vintage. The debut Jansz Pontos Hill release is the 2017 Vintage Cuvee; a total of 1986 bottles were made to celebrate the beginning of a sparkling wine journey that began in 1986. Now, 35, years on, the opening on the Pontos Hills facility reflects the ongoing commitment to wines that are \"undeniably Tasmanian\". Jansz will maintain its Pipers River headquarters in the north of the state. The debut release ($50) is a \"field blend\" of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier\" - the three classic sparkling wine grapes of Champagne. The Pontos Hills site spans 150 hectares in the Coal River Valley, just north-east of Hobart, where Jennifer Doyle is viticulturist and winemaker. \"It is a significant milestone in Jansz Tasmania's journey,\" says proprietor Robert Hill-Smith. \"It is a mark of our growth and achievements since the first vines were planted and the label established in 1986. It embodies our commitment to Tasmania and its community.\" 12 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

briefs Marysville is also minutes from Lake Mountain, a popular snow field. The new Peppers property joins a network of more than 20 Peppers retreats, resorts and CBD hotels across Australia and New Zealand. Opening rates starts from $219 per room per night. To book phone (03) 5957 7777. VISIT PEPPERS MARYSVILLE BILLY NOT BUBBY FIRST it was the Cumberland Guest House - destroyed after most of BAD BOY BILLY is the first whisky to the town was destroyed in the Black Saturday bushfires of February be made in the Geelong region for 2009 - then it was rebuilt as Vibe Marysville and now it has been four decades – and the first barrel transformed into Peppers Marysville. of single malt whisky from Bellarine Distillery. The release maintains the The 101-room property, designed by architecture firm Metier3, tradition of naming their products after was built from local timber and stone in 2015. Now Accor, the the family’s four-legged friends with the largest hotel operator in Australia, has opened its first hotel in the honour of the first barrel goes to Billy Yarra Valley with the opening of Peppers Marysville. the Staffordshire terrier distillery dog. Bad Boy Billy will be the first whisky to The property has five suites, a conference centre with five be made, matured and bottled in the meeting and conferencing spaces catering for up to 350 guests, Geelong region since the closure of a restaurant and bar, gymnasium, tennis court, heated outdoor Corio Distillery in the 1980s. swimming pool, sauna, wellness centre and day spa. Bellarine Distillery was established in 2015 by Russell Watson and Lorelle Warren, with the dream of making a single malt whisky. “Peppers Marysville is a unique addition to our collection of Commercial production began in 2017, when distillery manager hotels, resorts and apartments across Australia,\" said Accor Craig Michael joined the team and in 2019, he and his wife Nicky Pacific CEO Simon McGrath. came on board as business partners. While Bellarine Distillery’s much anticipated whisky was maturing, \"It is fitting that one of Australia's finest examples of boutique the team were working on releasing their award-winning gin range. accommodation is now associated with Peppers, a brand Bellarine Distillery’s cellar door, The Whiskery, opened in 2018 synonymous with providing bespoke hotel experiences to guests and has proved immensely popular in showcasing the gin range, for over 35 years. including the popular Teddy & The Fox. “Since opening early 2018, the cellar door has proven to be a \"We're seeing strong visitor numbers at our regional properties, popular venue for visitors both local and far and wide, with our gin especially those located within easy driving distance of major products now being sent all over Australia,” says Russell Watson. cities, and we're forecasting greater growth with travellers now “From the beginning, however, the dream was to produce our own able to travel freely across all Australian states and territories and single malt whisky, made, matured and bottled on the Bellarine.” the introduction of the trans-Tasman bubble.” Bad Boy Billy - a single-cask release - will produce a limited number of bottles but the team has been constantly laying down The hotel has joined the Accor portfolio following its sale to barrels to secure greater volume releases in the future. new owners The Shakespeare Property Group. Located just See www.bellarinedistillery.com.au 90 minutes from Melbourne and tucked away in the forested foothills of Victoria's Great Dividing Range, Marysville has long been a favourite getaway destination thanks to its tranquil riverside location, culinary delights, wonderful scenery and outdoor adventures. HANDPICKED LUXURY HANDPICKED Wines, which makes wines from several premium regions in Australia, has opened a luxury cellar in the Melbourne CBD. The Handpicked facility is at high-end precinct 80 Collins and the three-level space doubles as a retail wine shop and premium cheese, charcuterie and wine bar. ‘Tasting pods’ are integrated within the retail area, which also includes an ‘experience room’ designed for wine flights and education, with a mezzanine that overlooks the cellar door. Handpicked is the first Australian winemaker to enter the luxury wine retail space and the cellar door will showcase more than 50 wines from the Mornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley, Barossa Valley and Tasmania. With its vineyards currently July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs under organic conversion, Handpicked has a large focus on ECO-LUXE COTTAGE EXPERIENCE sustainability moving forward. ONE of the best bases from which to discover Tasmania is “What is unique is the fact that our passion for making great Cedar Cottage - a couples retreat tucked away in a bush setting wines is not limited to one region or style,\" says chief winemaker outside the northern Tasmanian hamlet of Meander. Pete Dillon. Eco-luxe Cedar Cottage has been almost fully booked since \"We are lucky to work with the best regions and varietals in the country, it opened late last year. which allow us to express the wine’s style true to its character. With that being said, our production team and facility are based in Victoria, so Sarah Williams, the woman behind this two-bedroom getaway Victorian wine regions and the Melbourne community are very special makes sure all the bases are covered when it comes to life's to us – which is why we are excited by this new location. little luxuries. A lot of thought has gone into the vibe here; it is rustic but with all modern comforts like super-sharp German “The goal with our cellar door is to bring the charm of viticulture kitchen knives, binoculars to check out the local bird life of and winemaking to an urban experience, where we can share and kooparoona niara/the Great Western Tiers, and USB recharging celebrate great wines with our guests. We have just released three slots in each room. There is also free unlimited wifi, Netflix and new wines off two incredible sites we acquired in Tasmania a couple Stan for anything you have been meaning to binge watch, along of years ago that are in conversion to organics, and we are excited to with a small library. show these sorts of wines to our customers.” Located just minutes from World Heritage wilderness, potential Open for a light breakfast, lunch, or supper seven days a week, with activities include fly fishing, bushwalking, river sledding, horse indoor and outdoor seating on Benson Walk, the cellar door menu riding, canyoning, caving, cultural tours and other adventures, focuses on regionality including a cheese selection from the world’s or just kicking back and enjoying the tranquillity. There is an greatest producers both home-grown (Holy Goat and Meredith from excellent house manual full of useful suggestions and local tips. Victoria, for example) as well as the best from France and Italy. Gourmets can stock up at Launceston’s famous Harvest Market, Charcuterie follows the same vein with cured meats from the Barossa on the Cradle to Coast Tasting Trail and the Deloraine-Latrobe (Schultz pancetta, smoked Wagyu) or prosciutto and jamon sliced Produce Loop, with handcrafted local chocolates, cheeses, to order. Guests can also indulge in a deli lunch and choose from smoked salmon, truffles, honey, raspberries, ice cream, craft beer, tins of Ortiz anchovies or La Belle Iloise sardines to be layered over cider and boutique wineries and distilleries all close by. sourdough or olive bread, and seasonal offerings may include raclette or truffle toasties in winter. “As well as curated wine tastings, we have wine flights on offer, barrel tastings and regular wine workshops held in the dedicated events space and led by our stellar team. For convenience, wines can be purchased at the cellar door or delivered within three hours, paired perfectly with a selection of cheeses and charcuterie,” says operations manager Andrew Robinson. Handpicked cellar door is located inside the 80 Collins precinct, a destination where curated dining meets luxury retail. The venue joins Georg Jensen, Mulberry and a new Saint Laurent flagship, as well as some of Melbourne’s most distinctive hospitality offerings. For bookings call (03) 7036 1088 or see www.handpickedwines. com.au. 14 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

briefs The property is self-catering but coffee beans, sugar, a selection Tasmanians and visitors alike,\" says Mele. \"I'm constantly of teas, and hot chocolate, milk, spices and herbs: black making new discoveries.\" peppercorns, rock salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, cumin, chili flakes, chili ground, smoked paprika, bay leaves, oregano and The open kitchen showcases Cape Grim beef, Bruny Island turmeric, olive oil, balsamic and white wine vinegar are all provided. cheese and other Tasmanian standouts. Grain occupies a sunny corner of the Silos; four towers originally built side by side on In summer, enjoy the veranda and cooking on the outdoor the banks of the Tamar River in the 1960s to house wheat. The fire pit, and grab vegetables and fruit from the organic cottage Silos sat empty for years - despite their stunning setting - until garden (the tomatoes and berries were outstanding). local developer Errol Stewart turned them into a luxury waterfront destination in 2018. Guests can unwind in that hot tub on a private deck facing the mountains, look out for curious wildlife and take in the pristine The 10-level hotel features 108 guest rooms with a boutique beauty of an uninterrupted night sky. vibe, including 52 inside the barrels of the former silos, undercover car parking, conference facilities and an integrated In winter, both beds have electric blankets and there is reverse lobby and reception space. The restaurant turns café for lighter cycle air conditioning. snacks during the day. Amenities on-site include a gym, day spa, child-minding facilities, hairdressing salon, function centre Prices from $395 per night. See www.cedarcottagemeander.com/ and private dining rooms. GOING WITH THE GRAIN The hotel overlooks the nearby Seaport; Royal Park with its barbecue area, play space, skate park and outdoor exercise HOTEL dining can be a mixed blessing. At its best you get to equipment, boardwalks and sealed paths; the Tamar River Basin sample local flavours in the same building in which you are and Cataract Gorge. It is also just a short stroll to the footbridge sleeping. At its worst you get to taste food ordered in bulk by a that links to the city centre. hotel chain's head office. Peppers Silo is located at 89-91 Lindsay Street, Invermay, Fortunately, the menu at Grain of the Silos - the signature eatery Launceston. Phone (03) 6700 0688 or visit www.peppers.com.au/ of Launceston's Peppers Silo Hotel, is curated with care and silo. www.grainofthesilos.com.au. attention by celebrity chef Massimo Mele. It got a big thumbs up from regular Winestate contributor Winsor Dobbin. Mele says he has fallen even more in love with Tasmania and its produce during the Covid-19 lockdown. Think ingredients like fresh George's Bay clams; padron peppers from Mele's own garden, and stunning charcuterie from Boucherie Tasmania and Fork It Farm. The wine list features local gems like Holm Oak Protege Pinot Noir. \"The quality of Tasmanian gourmet produce is improving all the time - and it is fabulous to be able to showcase it to both July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 15

briefs POP PRINCESS KYLIE CREATES WINE experience. The Festival takes places across Greater Sydney, COLLECTION with venues having been announced in June and the full Festival program revealed in July. Sydney Film Festival’s 68th Edition follows KEEN-EYED visitors to the a historic Virtual Edition and Awards in 2020, a global debut as cellar doors at Howard Park the only Australian Festival to join more than 20 of the world’s most in Margaret River and De prominent film festivals in the ten-day We Are One digital event, and Bortoli Yarra Valley in recent in early 2021, a successful Summer Season at the State Theatre, months might have noticed and sold-out Wong Kar Wai retrospective. a familiar face among recent fellow visitors. The Sydney Film Festival is a major event on the New South Wales cultural calendar and is one of the world’s longest-running Pop princess Kylie Minogue film festivals. For more information, visit sff.org.au. is expanding her wine range with a little help from her VALE PAUL LLOYD friends Janice McDonald at Howard Park and Steve WE were all very sad to hear of the passing of former journalist Webber at De Bortoli. Paul Lloyd here at Winestate. He was a great friend of the magazine and gave the honorary speech at the Winestate 30th The current Kylie Minogue Wines range includes a Signature Anniversary gala dinner in front of 400 industry dignitaries. Rosé (as reported earlier) and a Collection Côtes de Provence Rosé - but now the singer has crafted two wines from her Peter Simic reminisced, \"We first met when I organized a Australian homeland. double decker London Bus wine tour to Clare. Paul was on board and we discussed how when I was previously manager Kylie toured the Allingham Vineyard with Howard Park owners of the SA Wine Information Bureau I put forward the idea Jeff and Richard Burch, where the grapes for her 2019 Kylie of a wine magazine called Winestate and how, much to my Minogue Collection Margaret River Chardonnay are grown, and disappointment, it was knocked back by the committee. then crafted by Howard Park. “Why don’t you do it yourself?” Paul asked. “But I'm not a \"It was love at first sip when I first tried Howard Park journalist,” I replied. “No worries,” he said. “You know your chardonnay, so it was a real thrill to work with the extraordinary wines and I can be your Burch family, Janice McDonald (director of winemaking) and proof reader and ghost the team on this wine,” Kylie said. writer.” The 2019 Kylie Minogue Collection Margaret River Chardonnay So that was how and also a 2020 Kylie Minogue Collection Yarra Valley Pinot Winestate was born. With Noir, made in collaboration with Webber, were both launched the help of Roger Baynes in June. For more information about the range head to www. from Messenger Press kylieminoguewines.com/ and some great winery support, including from SYDNEY FILM FESTIVAL RETURNS TO Wolf Blass, we launched CINEMAS 18–29 AUGUST in May 1997 and the rest as they say is history. SYDNEY is set to enjoy a much welcome return from the very After his stint working hard-hit film and entertainment industry. From Wednesday 18 behind the scenes for us, August to Sunday 29 August 2021, the Sydney Film Festival will Paul went on to get the become one of the first major festivals in the world to return to coveted job as wine writer cinemas when it premieres its much anticipated 68th Edition. The for the Advertiser, which 2021 program will take over cinemas across Sydney, with excited he admirably performed audiences gathering once more to explore our times through the for many years. So raise medium of film. SFF’s exceptionally curated program will give your glass to a great man festival audiences the opportunity to travel through the eyes of and an industry legend. the world’s most exciting filmmaking talent, exploring this year’s most poignant issues, subjects, people, and places, at a historic moment in time. Sydney Film Festival Director Nashen Moodley says, “The 68th Edition will capture the flux, and intersecting currents, of the moment. It feels historic to be able to present the remarkable haul of work that has emerged around the world during COVID-19.” Films from the four corners of the globe will screen in conjunction with a public program of talks, parties and guests, enriching the festival 16 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW MOTHER NATURE KIND BUT NOT GENEROUS Although summer was a tad cooler than average, it was also drier DURING VINTAGE and fruit condition on the whole was excellent. Early signs are very promising in terms of quality. Unfortunately there won’t be much of it!” ANYONE involved in winegrowing knows producers have to play the hand they’re dealt each harvest. Last year Mother Nature was North Canterbury: Nicholas Brown, owner and winemaker at kind enough but the escalating coronavirus pandemic delivered a Waipara’s Black Estate says, “Harvest was great. The challenge this uniquely new set of challenges. This year, Mother Nature again dealt a season was spring frost, poor weather around flowering and dry windy benevolent hand but she did not deal a particularly generous one. It’s conditions in late February causing shrivelled berries. Low yields with no secret that volumes are down in most regions, some significantly so, small clusters allowed harvest to move quickly across our three hillside mainly a result of unsettled spring weather and frosts. In Marlborough, vineyards and was complete by Easter… I would expect some exciting which provides 75% of New Zealand’s harvest and the world’s second wines made throughout the valley.” largest crop of sauvignon blanc, it’s estimated that yields were down by around 30%. Given 2020 was also a relatively light vintage with Central Otago: Periodic fresh snow on the hills in December, many wines already sold, the supply/demand juggle will be trickier January and February delivered a cool summer, and periodic rainfall than ever. Get in quick… meant disease pressure for some producers but in general Central Otago producers are enthusiastic about quality, concentration and Auckland: An early season, with some producers finishing up to colour. Yields appear fairly normal, with Steve Davies of Doctors Flat three weeks ahead of usual. The warm, dry weather with just 60% of in Bannockburn commenting, “I suspect the January rain added a the usual rainfall delivering an outstanding harvest across the region. bit extra to the berry weights, that’s backed up by slightly higher than Kumeu River were able to celebrate Michael Brajkovich MW’s 40th normal wine yield per tonne.” He adds, “Fruit flavours seemed to take vintage with a harvest that is “looking exceptional”, albeit with 30% longer to develop this year - not sure why - but the fruit at harvest was less than usual. in great condition…the wine looks good too.” Gisborne: Matawhero owner Kirsten Searle was delighted with the RSE WORKERS RETURN outcome of their earliest harvest ever, which despite a decent spring frost delivered fairly typical yields. Searle said, “The good ripening PRODUCERS are breathing a sigh of relief at the government’s weather and only one real rain event late in the season ensured good decision to allow Pacific RSE works to return, after a year of Brix, acid and pH balance at harvest. It will be another solid vintage struggling to meet labour shortfalls across the seasons. Winter for the Gisborne Tairawhiti wine region.” pruning will be the first task to benefit from their arrival, and producers will now be able to plan with greater certainly for the Hawke’s Bay: Near-perfect growing conditions gave Hawke’s Bay coming growing season. its third excellent vintage in a row, with yields slightly down on average. Veteran winemaker Kate Radburnd of Radburnd Wines explains, “It VILLA MARIA & SACRED HILL SADLY IN was an early February start to vintage which is most unusual, due RECEIVERSHIP to a very dry growing season, producing fruit of lovely intensity and natural acid balance, in sound, clean condition - picking decisions AT the time of press it was announced that both Sacred Hill were made solely on the merit of the fruit. The 2021 vintage wines will Vineyards in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough, and Villa Maria’s be well structured for good ageing.” parent company FFWL Ltd have been placed into receivership. FFWL is wholly owned by Sir George Fistonich, who established Wairarapa: 2021 was small but perfectly formed in Wairarapa. Villa Maria in 1961. The receivers stated that Villa Maria and its Jannine Rickards, winemaker for Urlar and Huntress Wines observed, subsidiaries will remain unaffected as they are trading profitably, “2021 was very small indeed due to the frost events of spring and poor and an imminent sale is likely. Sacred Hill Vineyards’ receivers were southerly weather during the pinot noir flowering. Concentration and still undertaking assessments of the position ahead of determining fruit quality have been regarded by the majority as amazing.” the next steps. Marlborough: Early, dry and excellent were recurrent descriptors WINE DOG WINE from Marlborough growers and winemakers throughout harvest. Jules Taylor of Jules Taylor Wines sums up, “Frosts and cool/slightly THE winery dog is a beloved creature, and Central Otago winery damp flowering conditions meant cropping levels region-wide were Valli have now ensured local lost and homeless dogs can benefit well below average, pinot gris and pinot noir were particularly hard too. When winemaker Jen Parr’s much-loved dog Missy died two hit. That being said, the warm dry summer and ripening period was years ago, a special memorial Bannockburn ‘Missy’ Pinot Noir probably one of the kindest we’ve had and so picking decisions were was created, selling out in a matter of weeks and resulting in a easy! After the rush and stress of last harvest, this one was a dream. NZ$6250 cheque of 10% of the gross sales being presented to I’m particularly excited about sauvignon blanc - wonderful ripeness North Otago animal rescue non-profit, Pound Paws. The next Valli but with nice acidity and lovely greens too. The pinot noir is incredibly ‘dog wine’ (which owner and winemaker Grant Taylor assures me dense in colour. Such tiny berries and so few of them. Pinot Gris and is definitely not made from actual dogs) will be the 2020 Waitaki chardonnay are packed with punchy aromatics and great weight too.” Pinot Noir, named in honour of Grant’s own Pound Paws rescue dog, Theify, who as the name suggests, is quite a character in her Nelson: Nelson producers were generally thrilled with the quality and own right. Jen and Grant think it may be the best Waitaki vintage concentration of the harvest, particularly in pinot noir, but consumers yet so stand by for further good wine and good deeds. will need to be in quick. Neudorf’s Todd Stevens says that across the region, “Crops were impacted early in the season due to frost and hail, and poor weather during flowering further impacted crop loads. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 17

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW THE COST OF FROST METEOROLOGICAL spring in the northern been quite a few harmful frosts recently. Is it too soon to start wondering whether hemisphere is March, April and May. In As well as 2021, damaging spring frost spring frosts in parts of Europe are five of the last six years, Europe has been events occurred in Europe in 2020, 2019, becoming more frequent, despite the view hit by spring frosts, of varying extent and 2017 and 2016. of climate warming? Are there any clues damage. This seems counter-intuitive in from the two main types of frost event that the glare of climate warming claims. One might be forgiven for imagining can damage vulnerable new plant growth, spring frost risk would be diminishing or is that too simplistic? The frosts in European spring 2021 in a globally warming world. Latest data have been devastating. Budburst started from the European Environment Agency Radiation frosts can be reasonably early as is becoming rather familiar for the decade 2010 to 2019 show common. On clear, dry, still nights, warmth in the climate change era, with early European mean temperature is increasing is rapidly radiated from the ground surface warmth bringing forward growth. Then a at a greater rate than that of the global and vegetation, resulting in a chilling of air devastating frost in the beginning days of increase: 1.7 to 1.9ºC compared to 0.94 just above ground level, and the creation April 2021 caused widespread damage to 1.03ºC. of a temperature inversion – a layer of in Europe, but especially France, as warmer air, often 15 to 30 metres above temperatures dropped down to -6ºC in European national the chilled air near ground level. This is in some areas, evoking memories of, and contrast to the typical situation where air comparisons with, the extensive frost media carried evocative, temperature decreases with increasing damage of 1991, 1997, and 2017. The elevation above ground level. Above the pervasive chill ravaged other crops too, yet painful, images of warm inversion layer, the norm resumes – including apples, stone fruits and other air temperature decreases with increasing arable crops. hundreds of vineyard elevation. In Italy, many regions across northern burners warming the air Classic frost protection measures are and central Italy were affected, especially effective against radiation frosts, for lower lying, and flatter land, where cold around vulnerable, young, example, wind machines that mix the air accumulated. European national warmer air with the cold air around the media carried evocative, yet painful, new vine growth. vine-shooting zone; sprinkler systems, images of hundreds of vineyard burners and vineyard burners (‘candles’), that warming the air around vulnerable, Chablis, in northern Burgundy, offers need anywhere between 200 and 500 young, new vine growth. The damage an interesting anecdote. During a visit in ‘candles’ per hectare. It is the latter that has been so extensive that France 2017, (after the 2016 and 2017 frosts), I create that opportunity for that evocative, has declared an agricultural disaster, was told frosts in this cool climate region and painful, imagery. triggering financial support for farmers had become increasingly rare. The last - around €1bn / AUD$1.56bn across all sizeable one had been 2003, but in the Advection frosts are notably different. affected agricultural sectors. End of April 1950s there were eight years of frost and They tend to be large-scale events, estimates suggested the French crop two years of harvest. During an earlier brought in on a chill wind, often under loss was around 30%, nationally, with all visit, in 2010, it was suggested spring cloud cover. There is no temperature regions affected, even the normally sunny, frost risk may no longer be relevant for the inversion. Already-icy polar winds blow Mediterranean Languedoc, which suffered region owing to climate warming. Things across regions, replacing the warmer air up to 40% crop loss. changed a lot in the last half decade. that was previously present. Without a layer of warm air for humans to ‘manually’ Is this spring’s frost devastation an mix, advection frosts are more difficult to outlier? To the casual observer there have protect against. 18 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

Added to which the two types may occur true that in each of 2021, 2019 and 2017, Perfectly in the same event, perhaps starting with an the advection-initiated frosts came after balanced. advection frost, with chill Arctic air masses an early warm period that accelerated rolling south across parts of north-west, budburst and early growth. This early DW Fox Tucker is a sophisticated, and/or central, and/or Mediterranean growth of vulnerable shoots increases yet refreshingly earthy legal “blend”. Europe, before changing to radiation the likelihood of damage, and possibly Our bold service offering is built on frost some days later as meteorological extensive damage, when late, or even a full-bodied foundation of vast conditions change. not-late, frost events occur. general commercial experience, yet overlaid with distinctive specialist When any type of frost arrives, most vine The questions being researched include expertise in a number of key damage occurs when frost events occur whether the frost risk is likely to remain the industries and niche market over several consecutive nights. Bursting same, that is, the date of the last spring sectors. buds, and early growth, are vulnerable frost event is being brought forward at It’s a winning combination that to low temperature. The risk is that water the same rate as the start of budburst. allows every client who opens a in the young growing parts freezes, Or whether frost risk may be reduced, “case” to get exactly what they damaging, and killing new spring growth. that is, the date of the last frost event is need. So whatever your business Even around 0ºC young vine tissues can being brought forward at a faster rate or legal objectives, don’t hesitate be killed. than budburst. Or whether frost risk may to contact us. increase in some regions, that is, the date At DW Fox Tucker, every This type of large scale advection frost of the last frost event is being brought client matters. was responsible for starting the 2021, forward at a slower rate than budburst. 2019 and 2017 European frost damage. L14, 100 King William Street In the first week of April 2021, chill Arctic So far, it seems, depending on climate Adelaide SA 5000 winds brought several nights of frost, to model used, budburst/annual growth p: +61 8 8124 1811 cause significant damage. In 2019 frosts model used, and geographical location, in early May arrived in northern and central late spring frosts may increase, or e: [email protected] Europe as strong polar air swept south. decrease. Not enough is yet known. In dwfoxtucker.com.au The UK experienced its worst damage in a climate change terms, the significant long time. Earlier frost events, in mid-April spring frost events in parts, or larger COMMERCIAL | CORPORATE | DISPUTES had already hit parts of France. In 2017, parts, of Europe in five of the last six ENERGY | EMPLOYMENT | FAMILY several days of frosts took hold in the last years are solely anecdotal, despite third of April, as cold Arctic air blew across wreaking significant damage, not solely INSOLVENCY | IP | INSURANCE | PROPERTY swathes of western and central Europe. to viticulture. In the immediate aftermath RISK MANAGEMENT | RESOURCES of the April 2021 frosts, France’s National SELF INSURANCE | TAX | WORKERS It’s too soon to understand whether Federation of Agricultural Holders Union COMPENSATION damaging frosts after budburst are likely to estimated French wine region losses were increase or decrease with climate change. around €2bn (AUD$3.11bn). Research papers arrive at conflicting proposals around the evolution of ‘last frost days’. What is well established is that climate warming is bringing forward budburst, owing to increasing early warm spring temperatures. Mild preceding winters may be another factor. It is also July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 19 DWFT 2364 - DWFT_WS_Vert 59x270_Novemeber 2017.2in1/d1d1/21017 2:08:46 PM

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY PALETTE CHOICE MAKES PALATE SENSE A RED wine that suits all occasions at the the decision-making starts. Winemakers Semi-carbonic maceration is more dinner table must be smooth, velvety and can choose from full or partial (semi) popular and doesn’t involve adding supple on the palate. Not too heavy, not carbonic maceration. Similar to carbonic carbon dioxide. Here whole bunches are too alcoholic, not too jammy but pleasantly maceration, winemakers often choose to placed in a vat and the bottom layer is fruity and not overpowering. It should be experiment with partial, whole bunch or crushed by the weight of the grapes on an all-rounder, preferably medium bodied. destemmed whole berries. top which releases some juice that starts to So, what fits the bill? Well, I’d recommend a naturally ferment. This naturally produced gamay or another grape that has undergone Full carbonic maceration involves placing CO2 triggers an intra-cellular fermentation some sort of carbonic maceration. whole bunches into a stainless steel vat within the unbroken berries. Once the 2% and covering them with CO2 to exclude alcohol barrier is reached the skins again This technique, applied at the start oxygen. Together with a temperature of break and a normal on skins fermentation of the winemaking process, was once around 30 degrees, this creates the right can take place in the vat. pigeonholed to only Beaujolais in France, conditions for some of the sugars to turn but now it is a primary colour in a winemakers into alcohol. Once around 2% of alcohol Another slight variation is adding a ‘palette’. In one version or another, carbonic has been created the berries will swell and proportion of whole bunches into a normal maceration can be found in the production fermentation. The submerging of these of Australian shiraz, grenache, pinot noir To enable this inner berry bunches will create the anaerobic conditions and a swathe of other red wines. to create a carbonic maceration. Hand fermentation, you must plunging will eventually break these bunches Carbonic maceration or maceration up. If whole bunches are used, then the carbonique is a complex intracellular start with hand picking stems must be fully ripe. Using stems can fermentation of whole grapes which is increase tannins and add a spicy character carried out in an anaerobic environment the grapes so as not to to the wine. This can add complexity and with no juice contact. The fermentation is weight to a pinot noir for example. Should not a normal one as yeast is not involved. damage them. They must the stalks be under-ripe or not required due According to an article published in the to the tannic nature of the grape variety, Australian & New Zealand Grapegrower also be healthy with no then whole berries can be added to the and Winemaker in 2018 and written by the fermentation as another alternative. There AWRI it involves an enzyme called malic sign of damage or rot. are a number of wines that use both, and dehydrogenase which metabolises the in the same vat, creating a layered cake of grapes malic acid into ethanol, succinic Once the grapes are different ferments going on! acid and aminobutyric acid. Glycerol and shikimic acid is also produced which leads received in the winery the In the Adelaide Hills Winemaking Director to a number of aroma compounds such as Kym Milne MW at Bird in Hand uses a benzaldehyde (kirsch) and ethyl cinnamate decision-making starts. combination of these different techniques. (cinnamon or strawberry). The whole “Our syrah is usually around 20-30% whole reaction takes about a week. When gamay split. When used with gamay grapes to bunch, maybe 10-20% whole berry and the gets the full treatment, you end up with produce a simple Beaujolais Nouveau, the rest more traditional ferment – although strawberry, cherry, kirsch, confectionary fermentation is quickly carried out without these percentages will vary from year to or bubble-gum aromas which can be a skins once the desired colour is achieved. year.” Kym explains. “The whole bunch bit overwhelming. So partial carbonic The resulting wine is fresh and fruity with gives a definite aromatic lift to the wine – maceration is far more popular. low tannins and meant for immediate the slightly stalky/pyrazine notes give the consumption. Alternatively, the wines are wine some lifted florals, ‘pretty’ potpourri- To enable this inner berry fermentation, fermented on skins as normal, which will like aromatics and a general vibrancy you must start with hand picking the grapes produce a more complex and heavier wine. both on nose and palate. The whole berry so as not to damage them. They must also component we use is after it has been be healthy with no sign of damage or rot. selectively harvested by machine, which Once the grapes are received in the winery 20 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

gives us predominantly whole berry’s in Uniquely the bin. We then tip these straight into the Yorke fermenter rather than crushing the berries. Peninsula Whilst not a full Carbonic Maceration in the traditional sense, we find the resultant wine Cellar Door and Function Centre definitely has a slight ‘Cab Mac’ note, with Open 7 days 10am-5pm bright berry fruit but without the pyrazine notes of whole bunch. Also, the wine tends Maitland, South Australia to have softer tannins due to the lower Phone (08) 8834 1258 extraction of the whole berries vs crushed berries in a traditional ferment “ barleystackswines.com The approach to whole bunch, whole berry fermentations varies across regions and wine styles. Sutton Grange in the Bendigo region, for example, can use on average up to 35% whole bunch in making their Estate Syrah, but depends on the vintage. Winemaker Melanie Chester varies her approach for each batch. “Some ferments we use whole bunches on top of the ferment, whilst in others we place them at the bottom. The top results in more aromatics, a certain savouriness and layered tannins. Whilst bottom bunch ferments give us more juicy, fleshy wines,” she observes. In neighbouring Macedon Ranges winemaker Matt Harrop estimates he uses 15-20% whole bunch in Curly Flat Estate Pinot Noir. “This year (2021) we made 19 different fermentations from the various sites within the vineyard and each tank was slightly different. I like the aromatic lift it gives the wines and also spice in some ferments,” Matt adds. Whole berries are also used extensively. “We don’t have a crusher here so there is a lot of whole berries as well. It provides a gentler tannin extract,” he adds. In discussions with Matt, it seems the fruit from older vines or cooler sites can receive more whole bunch and also more oak treatment, as long as you treat them gently to avoid any stem greenness. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 21

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING CANBERRA - WINE, DINE AND HUNT FOR TRUFFLES CANBERRA is more accessible than Sydney and Melbourne's most vaunted making pioneer, in 1988. The winery also ever for Sydneysiders. The massive restaurant wine lists. Varietals to stock up boasts the Naked Cubby Collective, which WestConnex road system begins at the include pinot noir, chardonnay, tempranillo, calls itself hassle-free camping rather than back of Newtown on the edge of the CBD riesling, shiraz and cabernet merlot. glamping, but the experience is a long and a drive to the nation's capital now takes way from basic. under three hours. It's a great incentive Thirteen years ago, local for more frequent visits as Canberra is truffle farms specialising Lerida Estate Winery is centred by constantly changing with new cafes, in the famed black truffles a Glenn Murcutt-designed cellar door restaurants, hotels and some of the finest of Perigord started the and restaurant. Wherever you go in the new buildings in the country. building you access views of the great region's annual Truffle outdoors. Visit for the wine and stay for the Canberra's three cool climate wine Festival. The event is now food is the promotional tagline and you regions are a major magnet for tourists. synonymous with winter should follow the advice. We started with On a recent visit, we decided to focus smoked fish rillettes and figs stuffed with on the Lake George area, including in Canberra for visitors blue cheese before moving on to spice Bungendore and Wamboin in NSW. First and locals. From June to roasted duck breast with fennel, cinnamon, stop the much-lauded Lark Hill Biodynamic August, the leading farms pomegranate, molasses and quinoa salad. Winery. Founded in 1978 by Sue and Dave open their doors for truffle Carpenter, the property was certified hunts where you can meet Thirteen years ago, local truffle farms biodynamic in 2006. Four grape varieties specialising in the famed black truffles of are planted to the original vineyard - the dogs, enjoy truffle Perigord started the region's annual Truffle riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir and gruner tastings and take some of Festival. The event is now synonymous veltliner. In a second vineyard acquired in the \"black diamonds\" home. with winter in Canberra for visitors and 2011, there's shiraz, viognier, sangiovese, locals. From June to August, the leading marsanne and roussanne. Mount Majura has the honour of being farms open their doors for truffle hunts the first vineyard within the ACT. With vines where you can meet the dogs, enjoy The adjoining D&K Kitchen at Lark Hill covering just nine hectares, the property truffle tastings and take some of the \"black is alone worth the trip. We enjoyed goat was first planted by the late Dr Edgar Reik, diamonds\" home. The names to note are cheese and zucchini tartlets on salad a scientist and renowned district wine- Blue Frog Truffles, Durran Durra Truffles, with lime dressing with a 2019 gruner L'Air du Wombat Truffles, Macenmist Black veltliner, followed by sumac pan-fried Truffles and Wines, Tarago Truffles and salmon served with potato roesti, market Turalla Truffles and bookings are essential. vegetables and lemon butter sauce with For true truffle lovers, you can’t go past a glass of 2019 sangiovese. the truffled cheese on bread with truffle butter at Turalla. Lake George Winery is one of the oldest in the district and co-owner, Sarah I normally stay in the city centre when MacDougall, picked up the owner/operator I visit Canberra, but hadn't explored gong at the 2019 Australian Women in Braddon before even though it's a short Wine awards. All the grapes are hand- walk away. Formerly, a light industrial zone, picked using sustainable practices and the area has become a hip precinct of the property's wines appear on some of boutiques, cafes, bakeries, restaurants and 22 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

bars. Beer lovers should start with a stop at Champion Barista, holds sway as one of Visit our website and keep BentSpoke Brewing Co, where you can sip the nation's leading coffee visionaries. If up to date with all our latest on one or more of 18 locally crafted brews. you want a grander setting to sip your short wine info, news, competitions, black or latte, the Bookplate in the National The epicentre of Braddon is Lonsdale Library of Australia has a huge terrace with tastings and events. Street, which is full of arty boutiques, panoramic views. Or try the Pollen Cafe in Become a subscriber to enter regional providores and more. A highlight the Australian National Botanic Gardens, is the ORI Building, inspired by the origami- where keen walkers can stretch their legs into our exciting regular like folds on its facade. Sweet tooth’s should on the 1.4 kilometre Main Path. competitions. make a beeline for Enigma Fine Chocolates and the Frugii Dessert Laboratory, owned Blending two cuisines - Peruvian and Follow us and keep up to by Ed, Leon and John Marshall. There's Japanese - is the major point of difference at date with all our latest truffle ice-cream, of course, to point up Inka, the most talked-about new restaurant wine info, tastings and Canberra's pre-eminence and one-offs opening in Canberra this year. Dubbed like Vegemite ice, along with usual suspect Nikkei cuisine, this moreish hybrid has events on facebook, twitter flavours such as salted caramel, chocolate become a world force. Many consider Nobu and instagram. and raspberry. Matsuhisa, the founder of the successful Nobu restaurants, as the standard bearer Winestate Magazine Another unique offering in Braddon is of Nikkei cuisine. Inka looks like it has been @WinestateEd Rizla, which claims to be Australia's first transported from New York, with its luxury bar focused on riesling. Helmed by Andy fit-out, quipu-inspired tapestries and woven www.winestate.com.au Day, you'll find many of Canberra's new lamps. An absolute must-visit for foodlovers vintage and cellared rieslings, in addition for dishes such as nikkei ceviche, wagyu to versions from the other states, Alsace sirloin MB5 and chilli chocolate fondant with and Germany. We topped off the evening pisco guava sorbet. with a 2017 Wallaroo Sparkling Riesling - lemony and long on the finish. There are other varietals but I strongly advise sticking to the riesling theme. Paranormal Wines in Campbell is the brainchild of hospitality and wine expert, Max Walker (ex-MoVida in Melbourne and LP Quality Meats in Sydney). The emphasis, no surprise, is on organic and natural wines from Australia and around the world. A hybrid wine bar and shop, you can pop in for a glass of wine and charcuterie plate or pick up a bottle to take home. Good coffee is considered a basic rite in Canberra. I love The Cupping Room in the city, where Sasa Sestic, 2015 World July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 23

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STANDING OUT IN THE CROWD DAN TRAUCKI There are around 2,500 wineries in Australia, so it takes something Barossa, Paul continues consulting to growers and wineries in special and/or unique to make a winery stand out from the crowd. a number of premium grape growing areas around the country, Such a winery is Paulmara Estates. where his expertise and professionalism are very highly regarded, to the extent that some people refer to him as, “The Grape Celebrating 21 years this year, Paulmara Estates is the Whisperer”. amalgamation of Paul and Mara Georgiadis’ viticultural skills into a thriving family business. Having both been born and bred into Apart from Australian wineries Paul also consults (via Skype) viticultural families, it was almost inevitable that they would end to Gentilini Winery on the Greek island of Kefalonia with whom up growing premium quality grapes. Paulmara Estates has developed a special relationship. From vintages 2017, 2019 and 2020 (currently in transit) Gentilini made Born in Sonoma County California to a father who is an and bottled a wine from the exciting native Greek white variety, internationally renowned expert and professor of viticulture, Mara Robola, for Paulmara Estates called, Crossed Paths. This interest Thomas grew up around vines and gained invaluable experience all started a few years ago with Paul and Alex Katsaros attending working in various roles for the largest grapevine nursery in the a Greek Wine Masterclass in Sydney where they met and became northern hemisphere. After achieving her Agribusiness degree, friends with Petros Markantonatos of Gentilini Winery. Along the she gained further experience working in cellar door sales and way the Riverland Vine Improvement Society sent Paul and Alex marketing for some of Sonoma’s best-known wineries. In 1997, to Greece to source cuttings of Greek native grape varieties. Mara travelled to South Australia and while working in a Barossa Unfortunately, eight out of the ten varieties that were sourced winery, she met Paul Georgiadis and they soon after got married. proved to have viruses, and although they were viruses already in existence here, the vines were destroyed by PIRSA (Primary Paul Georgiadis was born in Barmera in the Riverland, to Greek Industries Research South Australia). So far only the red variety, immigrant parents who, like most growers in those days, owned Xinomavro, is about to be released from quarantine ready for both vineyards and stone fruit orchards. While still studying at propagation, with one other variety still in quarantine. This will university, Paul managed the family vineyard business and then make Xinomavro only the second native Greek variety planted went on to be the Penfolds Grower Relations Manager – premium in Australia, after the white variety, Assyrtiko. regions for almost two decades until 2009. In 1995, Paul planted his first vines in the Marananga sub-region of the Barossa Valley. The interest in growing Mediterranean grape varieties has taken Today, in addition to overseeing the Paulmara vineyards in the July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 25

Up until two years ago the majority of their fruit was sold to Penfolds for their high-end labels, such as the Penfolds Cellar Reserve Sangiovese and some of their shiraz being included in Grange, but now they keep it all for themselves, giving them the flexibility to truly express the terroir of their vineyards. 26 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

a new direction recently when Paulmara started collaborating One of the progressive attitudes at Paulmara Estates is that with an Adelaide University PhD student in the propagation of they charge $10 per person for their by-appointment-only wine the native Cypriot red varieties, Xynisteri and Maratheftiko – so tastings, with the $10 being refunded as a discount off any wine watch this space! purchased on the day. They prefer to do individualised tastings with their guests in order to share their passion and knowledge Paulmara has two vineyards, the first being the Georgiadis in a relaxed setting. This ensures that visitors to the cellar door Estates vineyard at 12.4 hectares and currently planted with are serious wine explorers and not just “tyre kickers” out to have shiraz, sangiovese, nero d’avola, mataro and cabernet sauvignon. a free wine drinking session. While the Paradigm Vineyard is 10.0 hectares and is planted with 35-90-year-old contoured shiraz and cabernet sauvignon Having tasted the Paulmara Estates “The Melee”, a sensational vines. Together they provide excellent premium quality grapes blend of sangiovese, shiraz and malbec, as well as the exciting for Paulmara to forge their wines from. “Crossed Paths” Robola, I sincerely doubt that there would be many visitors leaving the cellar door without having been refunded Up until two years ago the majority of their fruit was sold to their $10 tasting fee. Penfolds for their high-end labels, such as the Penfolds Cellar Reserve Sangiovese and some of their shiraz being included in There is no question that Paulmara Estates stands out from Grange, but now they keep it all for themselves, giving them the the masses in the Australian wine industry both from the point flexibility to truly express the terroir of their vineyards. By the way, of view of the quality of their wines, but also in their creativity for many years winemaker, Jason Barrette, made quality wines at at looking to bring something new and exciting to discerning Penfolds from the Paulmara Estates grapes before more recently wine drinkers. I can’t wait to see what the future brings from this joining the gang and making the exciting Paulmara Estates wines. dynamic duo – more sensational Greek varieties? The Cypriot Varieties? Sensational blends of international varieties? Only time To date, the Paulmara Estates wine range is sold primarily will tell and it will be a very interesting journey. through the cellar door/on-line, in on-premise and in a few independent retailers in Adelaide and Canberra as well as on- Previous pages: Paul and Mara Georgiadis in the vineyard and a cluster of premise in Townsville. There are plans afoot to expand domestic grapes in the vineyard. sales, but as yet there are no plans to export their wines, preferring Opposite page from left to right, top to bottom: Paradigm back block, aerial view to establish a solid domestic base first. of the vineyard and property, aerial view of Paradigm cabernet and church, Jason Barrette and Paul Georgiadis in the vineyard, Paul and Jason testing the wine. Above left to right: Cabernet vineyards and the church, Apotigi wine bottle and vine leaves in the vineyard. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 27

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MARISCO HITS THE SWEET SPOT WHAT STARTED OUT AS A STICKY SITUATION TURNED INTO WINEMAKING GOLD EMMA JENKINS MW THEY say that every cloud has a silver lining but in the case of or select on-premise establishments; Marisco has found a niche Marisco, it turns out they can sometimes have golden linings in that they are amongst the few sweet wines in their domestic too. The 2008 vintage in Marlborough was undoubtedly a tricky distributor Lion’s portfolio. year, one of generous crops and quite a lot of rain. In Marisco’s Waihopai River Vineyard a block of sauvignon blanc developed Previously, EU laws had prevented New Zealand exporting botrytis (aka noble rot), and the decision was made to salvage sweet wines to one of its most important export markets, so the situation by attempting a sweet wine. Siobhan Wilson, GM while Marisco’s UK distributor Majestic had tasted and become for Sales and Marketing recalls, “Out of a challenging year came enthusiastic about the wine on buying trips to New Zealand, this golden nugget.” they were unable to import it. Once Marisco could see there was significant demand for the wine they adapted their winemaking to Marisco now makes two dessert style sweet wines: The Ned reduce its alcohol while maintaining flavour and texture. This was Noble Sauvignon Blanc, made in a fresh, clean style and The a gamechanger for The Ned - its fresh, clean style, accessible King’s Series ‘A Sticky End’ Noble Sauvignon Blanc, richer price and point of difference as a botrytised sauvignon blanc and more complex. Sweet wines tend to be labours of love for appealed to consumers and Majestic has built a substantial those who do produce them. It’s a such a tiny proportion of following for the wine in the UK. Marisco like to use A Sticky End New Zealand’s output that production figures are not recorded for winemakers’ dinners and speciality tastings both in NZ and in New Zealand Winegrower’s Annual Report (they do however abroad - Wilson recounts that in Canada, they once took four state export figures of 21,000L for 2020). Difficult to make and boxes for something fun to pour at the Vancouver Playhouse difficult to sell, sweet wine sales are declining worldwide – witness Festival and much to their distributor’s chagrin (the wine is not sold Sauternes’ increasing production of dry wines at the expense of in Canada), found themselves swamped with festivalgoers and their historically illustrious sweet wines. In New Zealand, sweet sold out as word spread about the delectable sweet sauvignon wines are mostly hand sold through cellar doors, specialist retailers from New Zealand. More versatile in style than one might suspect, July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 29

Wilson feels Marisco’s sweet wines work well at the start of the meal where the lighter-bodied The Ned can be served well- chilled as an aperitif to accompany paté and both wines partner well with cheese and fruit served at the end of the meal, fighting the conventional wisdom that these are wines only to accompany the pudding course. 30 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

Wilson feels Marisco’s sweet wines work well at the start of the meal where the lighter-bodied The Ned can be served well-chilled as an aperitif to accompany paté and both wines partner well with cheese and fruit served at the end of the meal, fighting the conventional wisdom that these are wines only to accompany the pudding course. Even in New Zealand where sauvignon blanc reigns supreme, botrytised examples remain less common, with riesling being a far more typical choice. Wilson comments, “It is an unusual style, but we have hung our hat on sauvignon blanc and it works really well for us.” Sauvignon blanc is well suited to sweet wines, both in terms of its susceptivity to botrytis under the right conditions (the wrong timing means grey rather than noble rot, which is avoided at all costs) and ability to retain acidity and freshness. Misty autumn mornings with still, sunny afternoons produce the furry, mouldy shrivelled botrytis-affected grapes that seemingly by alchemy turn into lusciously sweet, concentrated wines. As Marisco production winemaker Jeremy Brown observes, “When you see the grapes on the vine, they look almost ugly. It always amazes me how you bring them into the winery and end up with the polar opposite.” Marisco’s Waihopai River Vineyard comprises three terraces sloping down towards the river. The top terrace is in the lee of the landmark Delta Hill, creating a natural shadow that sees vines miss the morning sun, gathering moisture and thus susceptivity to botrytis before the sun comes over the hill. The Marisco team now have a particular vineyard block and winery program dedicated to the sweet wines. The Ned Noble Sauvignon Blanc, fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks, was the first iteration, with the King’s Series A Sticky End developed as an evolution of a trial placing a portion of The Ned fruit in barrel. The result was a more unctuous, honeyed, complex wine, more akin to the classic style of botrytised dessert wines. However, A Sticky End’s production remains much smaller by comparison; depending on the season The Ned volumes can be 5-10 times greater. Marisco’s main sauvignon blanc harvest is typically in mid- March, whereas botrytised grapes destined for the sweet wines hang out until around the first week of May, gathering sugar and concentrating flavours. Fruit for A Sticky End is handpicked and fully botrytised, but The Ned retains a portion of non-botrytised, late harvest grapes, helping it stay a little lighter in sweetness and body. A Sticky End is fermented and aged in small oblong barrels known as cigars, 30% of which are new, giving a more textural element. Brown says that for both wines, he’s looking for balance, retaining tension between the sugar and acidity to keep a clean, moreish finish. He notes, “Every year, you never quite know what you will get in terms of fruit volume, but we now have a very good idea of the style we are making and that gives us confidence.” The sweet wines have been made every vintage since 2008 but some years don’t always delivery a bountiful crop which can make balancing supply and demand tricky, not least as botrytised grapes yield roughly half the volume of dry wine. Marico’s golden nuggets are not yet sold in Australia (watch this space) but their ability to deliver sauvignon’s characteristic fruit profile alongside a lusciously sweet though never cloying palate makes them well worth seeking out for those keen to experience a more decadent side to Marlborough sauvignon blanc. Previous pages: Vines on the banks of the Waihopai River. Opposite page left to right top to bottom: Siobhan Wilson, sunrise on the Waihopai River vineyard and The Sticky End wine. Top right: Sauvignon Blanc vines basking in the afternoon sun on the Waihopai River Vineyard. Middle right: Jeremy Brown. Bottom right: Botrytis grapes are being held by Emma Marris, production winemaker and daughter of Brent Marris. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 31

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PARALLEL PASSIONS With a background in medicine and a love of wine, Justin Ardill and his wife Julie set out to create something special with the award-winning Reillys Wines. NIGEL HOPKINS THE wine world is no stranger to well-heeled but with a heap of chemistry, science and fermented and basket pressed by hand, doctors, especially in later life, indulging blind optimism on his side, plus Julie, he setting a “hands on” style that Ardill has their passion for wine by purchasing a bought that 5ha vineyard in Watervale, first maintained over the following 27 years. vineyard, winery or both, and then probably planted in 1919 with bush vine grenache That first vintage yielded 300 dozen each doing their best to drink the profits. by a returned WW1 soldier who had been of riesling, shiraz, and grenache. allocated the land by the government as part Justin Ardill is not one of them. Yes, he is of the Soldier Settlement Scheme. By 2000 the cottage verandah had been a doctor, a high-pressure cardiologist who replaced by a purpose-built modern winery specialises in treating people with heart Ardill, then in his late 20s, had looked at wine built on the 1919 block. More vineyards had attacks, and somehow he manages to regions all over South Australia, but he was been bought including the 110ha St Clare run parallel careers. But that’s where any drawn back to the Clare Valley, and especially vineyard at Leasingham, used for creating stereotypical image ends, for he is equally a the Leasingham and Watervale sub-regions, the Dry Land, Reillys and Barking Mad ranges very much hands-on winemaker and grape partly by their relative affordability but also his of wines; the Home Block vineyards planted grower who, with his wife Julie, bought a love for their wines. with shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, viognier modest, if rather distinguished, 5ha vineyard and muscat; and the Stolen Block vineyard at Leasingham in the Clare Valley in 1993. Along with the 1919 vineyard he and Julie planted with shiraz in 1926 – “purchased by also bought a humble 1856 cottage with a a large producer who never realised how Educated by Jesuits in Adelaide and with heap of history in nearby Mintaro to be their good the fruit was. When the time was right a wine-loving father it naturally led to visits cellar door. It was called Reillys Cottage, after we 'stole' it from under their noses!” to Sevenhill Winery in the Clare Valley, then its original shoemaker owner Hugh Reilly, and presided over by the legendary Brother it gave the winery its name. A second cottage, The total vineyard holding is now around John May, where the young Ardill thought formerly Thompson's Residence and Pay 125ha, but Ardill points out that much of this becoming a winemaker would make a Office, was also purchased and now provides is dry-grown or otherwise low yielding, mostly great career path. Instead he graduated B&B accommodation. around two tonnes to the acre (4.8 tonnes/ha). in pharmacy, then medicine, but that winemaking dream hadn’t gone away so, The following year, in 1994 in his first The number of grape varieties has grown before embarking on cardiology training, vintage, working on the cottage verandah, from that first three to at least 11, including he decided it was now or never. Ardill processed 10 tonnes of fruit, 3.6 sangiovese, tempranillo, sagrantino along tonnes of which came from the old bush with the more traditional malbec, mataro With no winemaking or viticulture training, vine grenache, which was crushed, open and merlot. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 33

Along with the 1919 vineyard he (Justin) and Julie also bought a humble 1856 cottage with a heap of history in nearby Mintaro to be their cellar door. It was called Reillys Cottage, after its original shoemaker owner Hugh Reilly, and it gave the winery its name. Previous pages: Food and wine from Reillys restaurant, picnic in the Reillys vineyard and exterior of Reillys cellar door. Top: View of Reillys cellar door, vineyards and Mintaro cottage. Left: Owners of Reillys, Justin and Julie Ardill. Opposite page top to bottom: Exterior of Mintaro cottage, interior of accommodation and food and wine from Reillys restaurant. 34 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

One of the first wines that really put Reillys “We’re pretty much recipe-driven in terms of on the map was its 2000 Watervale Riesling, our process in the winery. That evolved from made from grapes sourced from “our the earliest days when we didn’t know what exclusive grower and good mate” viticulturalist we were doing. We are very focussed on Rob Smyth, which won a gold medal at the letting the fruit express itself in the vineyard, Royal Adelaide Wine Show in 2003. getting the ripening perfect. In the winery, if there’s two ways to do it we always try to With the move to screwcap the following do it the harder way. We’re very hands on, year, Reillys rieslings, both from the Smyth very physical. We have way more treatment vineyard and later plantings at the St Clare of the grapes than most wineries would vineyard, have gone on to win a truckload contemplate.” of medals and accolades – including 5 star ratings and Top in Category in Winestate Like many Australian wineries, Reillys judgings. has been hit hard by the loss of the Chinese market, even though it is doing While riesling is certainly very important to fine in Canada, Singapore and Malaysia. Reillys, it’s only an important part of a much And although it’s been “quite powerful bigger story. At the top of the range are the domestically”, Ardill now plans to reinforce RCV (Reilly Clare Valley) wines such as the his local appeal with the opening of a Epitaph Shiraz – “a tribute wine to my Dad”, second cellar door in the Barossa at and the Dry Land label (from unirrigated Greenock, with a 2018 Greenock shiraz, a vines), then Reillys and Barking Mad, the entry 2017 shiraz from Moppa grapes and a white level wine. That’s a story in itself. frontignac – and a collaborative cabernet shiraz from Leasingham and Greenock. The Ardills had a couple of dachshunds who loved being in the winery, but the sound of the The label will be called Moon Vine, after a winery’s old Bedford truck double declutching painting by renowned artist Tom Gleghorn, as it rumbled down the road laden with fruit, who has designed a number of Reillys would send them nuts – barking mad in fact. premium labels, depicting the moon rising over an old block shiraz vine at St Hallett. It’s The label was “a bit of cheekiness” Ardill an exciting development for Ardill and one says, but he says some have thought it also that could pitch Reillys into a new era. applied to him and Julie when they started in the wine business nearly three decades ago: “At first we just plunged in,” he says. “We didn’t really know much about what we were doing, which is why we’ve often done it the harder way. At first we were really surprised at how well we went.” Although Ardill did eventually spend some time at the Waite campus studying oenology, it’s clear that this is not behind his success: “I did a lot of chemistry at university, so the chemistry and science of winemaking never bothered me,” he says. He took advice from microbiologists on the choice and treatments of yeasts: “We always start our ferments with wild yeast, but then finish them with cultured yeast”. And above all it was his understanding of the soils in which he planted his vines: “The key to all of it has been the vineyards,” he says. That and a careful, methodical process: “It’s all about planning, being organised, getting the grapes tucked away perfectly. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 35

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THE GREAT GRÜNER CRUSADERS! How Hahndorf Hill is championing this burgeoning variety. CHARLES GENT THE world loves grüner veltliner and, fortunately for Australia, it time minimums is an intrinsic feature of growing seasons in the is apparent that grüner veltliner loves the Adelaide Hills. Adelaide Hills, prospects seemed excellent. Consumption and production of the native Austrian grape variety After an impatient wait while the imported cuttings of three is surging around the world, and its critical reputation is on the up clones cleared quarantine, the first rows of grüner were planted and up. Australia is keeping pace with the trend; from a standing at Hahndorf Hill and in 2010 the inaugural vintage was released, start just over a decade ago, grüner is now the fifth most planted only the second example of a grüner to be made in Australia white grape in the Adelaide Hills region. In South Australia, the (after Canberra’s Lark Hill). grape’s arrival and much of its burgeoning local popularity can largely be sheeted home to one man – Larry Jacobs, proprietor The quality satisfied all expectations, and Jacobs’ initial and vigneron at Hahndorf Hill Winery. enthusiasm mutated into evangelism – he urged winemakers up and down the length of the Hills region to give grüner a go, and Expatriate South African winemakers Larry Jacobs and Marc supplied cuttings to the converts. The results have been startling: Dobson bought Hahndorf Hill in 2002. Looking for a point of while grüner is now also grown in Victoria, Tasmania and outside difference in a dispiriting time of oversupply and glut, the pair Canberra, the Adelaide Hills boasts the greatest concentration began to cast around for a suitable white variety to grow as an of growers and the largest area of grüner plantings in the world alternative to the region’s usual suspects of chardonnay and outside Austria. International recognition has followed suit: in sauvignon blanc. After considerable R&D – “It meant quite a lot competitive tastings of out-of-country examples of grüner held of drinking,” Jacobs says – Austria’s grüner veltliner made the by Austrian wine magazines, Hahndorf Hill’s ‘The Gru’ Grüner shortlist, and the pair headed to its country of origin to learn more. Veltliner has come top twice and other Hills wines have placed in the top five. Austrians don’t much go in for wine tourism and cellar doors are scant, but by dint of knocking on winery doors, talking Jacobs says one aspect of grüner that endears it to winemakers to vignerons and tasting their wines, the potential of grüner and drinkers is its versatility. In Austria, grüner veltliner is made in became ever-more evident to the visitors. Jacobs says that a variety of styles – most with unpronounceable names, Jacobs the Austrian winemakers were emphatic that the climatic says. They range from the light, crisp, more riesling-like wines aspects of terroir were the key to growing grüner, particularly through to those at the richer and weightier end of the table wine the presence of large diurnal temperature swings. Given that spectrum. Dessert wines, made as ice-wines or via botrytis are a wide gap between warm daytime maximums and cold night- also produced, as well as sparkling wines. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 37

The quality satisfied all expectations, and Jacobs’ initial enthusiasm mutated into evangelism – he urged winemakers up and down the length of the Hills region to give Grüner a go, and supplied cuttings to the converts. 38 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

Hahndorf Hill itself now make four forms of grüner. ‘The Gru’ is made in the leaner, so-called classic style, while the Reserve is fuller, richer and more opulent, due in part to 100 per cent wild ferment and time on wood (of late, the winemakers have been testing mulberry-wood barrels as a less overt alternative to oak). More recently, ‘White Mischief’ has been added to the line-up, made in a deliberately exuberant, New World version. “It has guava, ruby grapefruit and even pineapple flavours,” Jacobs says. “It’s still a dry wine, but it’s very florid with its aromatics, very generous, reined in by its texture, spiciness and good natural acidity.” The wine was named Wine of the Show at the Alternative Varieties Wine Show in 2020, and the most recent vintage won top points among the Adelaide Hills whites from Winestate’s judges receiving a four-and-a-half or 97-point score rating! The fourth variant of Grüner at Hahndorf Hill, ‘Green Angel’, is a dessert wine, with its high baume and concentrated flavours created by late picking – this year, the shrivelling fruit stayed on the vine under nets until well into May: “The birds were throwing themselves at it,” Jacobs says. The Austrian experiment is now almost all-consuming at Hahndorf Hill. Modest plantings of a red grape of Austrian origin, blaufrankisch, which were already growing when Jacobs and Dobson arrived, are now much expanded, and have since been joined by further Austrian red varieties in the form of zweigelt and, six years ago, Saint Laurent. “It sounds French, but she ain’t,” Jacobs says. He says he is “twitching with excitement” about the variety’s possibilities at Hahndorf Hill and across the wider region: two years ago, St Laurent was genetically identified as a “daughter” of pinot noir by Austria’s oldest viticultural school, Klosterneuberg. Until the interruption of Covid, the Hahndorf Hill winemakers, as well as sales rep Jack Simmonds, made repeated trips to Austria, and the cellar door staff take great pride in their knowledge of Austrian varieties. “Our journey has been that we’ve transformed ourselves into Austrian specialists. The vineyard is no longer shiraz with a bit of blaufrankisch; it’s predominantly grüner veltliner with blaufrankisch as the number two grape,” Jacobs says. “The Adelaide Hills is now the epicentre of grüner veltliner in the southern hemisphere, and it’s doing well. It seems as if the terroir, and the decision to plant here, was right. Grüner really, really makes good wines here.” Previous pages left to right top to bottom: Gruner veltliner vines aglow at Hahndorf Hill's vineyard, twilight envelops Hahndorf Hill's vineyard of Austrian-variety vines, Hahndorf Hill owners Larry Jacobs (left) and Marc Dobson, buckets brimming with gruner veltliner grapes, blaufrankisch vines at Hahndorf Hill vineyard, cellar door manager Dee Wright and brand ambassador Jack Simmonds, in the Hahndorf Hill cellar door. Top: An autumnal dawn lights up Hahndorf Hill's cellar door. Left: Hahndorf Hill owners Larry Jacobs (left) and Marc Dobson in their Blaufrankisch block. Directly left: The Hahndorf Hill Range. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 39

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BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK Trentham Estate proves you can make award-winning wine at very reasonable prices! RICK ALLEN THE philosophy is simple enough, four words really: bang The land on the northern banks of the Murray was originally bought for your buck. by Jack Murphy and his wife Moya, Renee’s grandparents, back in the days when land in NSW was opening up for development. It has been the catchcry of Murray Darling winery Trentham Estate They worked hard, farmed it with citrus and vegetables mostly, since day one and there is no plan to change it. When you’re on and also grew some grapes which were used for fortified wine. It a good thing… was the family home of sons Anthony and Pat Murphy, who, along with Anthony’s wife Nola are today’s owners of the business and Located at Trentham Cliffs, about 15 minutes north-east of its directors. Renee is Tony and Nola’s daughter, so it’s fair to say Mildura, the Trentham winery and cellar door sits on a picturesque the business is in her blood. While Anthony is head winemaker bend of the Murray River and has been a popular spot for locals working with a small team, Pat looks after the viticulture side of the for many years. business, while Nola oversees the cellar door and special events. There is a lot to like there – wine tasting, restaurant, a relaxed It didn’t take long for Jack and Moya to see the potential of the vibe and panoramic views of the river- but in amongst all that, wine side of the operation and they started switching across – the bang for your buck sits unashamedly front and centre alongside property already had the earliest shiraz vines in the region when sheer tasting consistency. they purchased it, planted in 1952. But the serious switch to full time winery came when Anthony, Pat and Nola took over. Consider this: at a time when some Australian wines are hitting stratospheric prices, and so many other wines these days are And while it has been typical of life on the land, with lots of long north of $50, Trentham’s best - their Reserve range – comes in at days, Trentham is most certainly a success story. a distinctly modest $28. Since opening their cellar door in 1988, they now have 45 “Well, let me qualify that,” Sales and Marketing Manager, hectares under vine, produce about 100,000 cases annually and, Renee Murphy explained. off the top of her head, Renee could cite annual exports to Belgium, south-east Asia, Canada, Denmark and the Netherlands. “Occasionally, when we have an exceptional vintage we might select certain parcels of fruit for what is essentially a grand reserve “We were going in to China too, but these days that’s obviously range. But even then we’ll price it in the low to mid-$30 bracket. problematic.” “We’ve always prided ourselves on tasty wine that is affordable, Throw in a thriving cellar door operation, and the hard work and in a relaxed setting. That’s what we stand for.” has been worth it. But before we delve too much into the wines, let’s step back a touch to set the scene for the Trentham story. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 41

\"Since opening their cellar After the Reserve range, Trentham feature two other labels. door in 1988, they now have 45 Their Estate range is $18 and features wines grown exclusively on site, including sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, chardonnay, pinot hectares under vine, produce noir, merlot and shiraz. about 100,000 cases annually and, The other is known as the Family range and is dedicated off the top of her head, Renee exclusively to Italian varietals. It, too, kicks in at $18 and includes could cite annual exports to prosecco, vermentino, pinot grigio, moscato, a sangiovese rosé, Belgium, south-east Asia, Canada, nero d’avola, nebbiolo and frizzante maestre. Denmark and the Netherlands.\" Why the strong Italian influence? 42 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021 “It seemed a natural fit,” Renee said. “My mum Nola has an Italian ancestry, and the climate here is really well suited to the Mediterranean varietals in general. “There’s also a lot of Italian migrant families in the region so from the start the wines have always been well supported. I think in general terms we have been a winery that has been prepared to experiment. We’re not scared of giving something a go and seeing what the reaction is. If it doesn’t work we’ll try something else. But certainly the Italian wines have found a home here. “Our frizzante maestre, for example, is a light, spritzy red and it marches out the door. It just sort of suits the climate. It pairs well with Asian dishes and curries, it goes well with anything spicy … desserts too. And our sangiovese rosé is another wine that people love. It’s a dry style, and sitting at one of our outside tables enjoying a glass or two and taking in the view … that’s pretty hard to beat.” The Reserve range is different again and is made up of fruit bought in from other regions. Anthony will jump on a plane and monitor fruit quality, having final say on what will be purchased.

“We look for fruit that does well in other regions, so at the moment for example, we have shiraz from Heathcote, a Tumbarumba chardonnay, Tasmanian pinot and we also make a Tasmanian pinot chardonnay sparkling, and a Coonawarra cabernet.” For a winery with a strong Italian slant, it is no surprise that Trentham’s restaurant has always been popular too. And while Renee describes it as “modern Australian”, Italian dishes are littered throughout the menu. “Our restaurant was always popular with tourists or locals showing their friends around the region,” Renee said. “But with COVID we’ve had to change how we do things. We’re using the restaurant for sit down wine tasting. It means we’ve moved dining outside on to the lawn and put up a marquee. It has meant it’s even more relaxed than usual, but the feedback has been overwhelmingly positive. So much so we’ll have to sit down and consider whether to keep this set up permanently.” A glass of chilled sangiovese rosé to start with while I decide on a linguine marinara, or perhaps Italian meatballs, washed down with a tasty nebbiolo as I take in the sunshine and the view. How true blue can you get? Previous pages left to right top to bottom: Scenic Murray River at Trentham Estate, a few bottles of Trentham wine and brothers Pat (left) and Anthony Murphy, the driving force behind the Trentham Estate success story. Opposite page: Since COVID, Trentham has moved its dining outdoors which has proved hugely successful. Garden and cellar door overlooking the Murray River. Top: Outside dining overlooking the picturesque Murray River is a highlight of any visit to Trentham. Right: A few bottles of Trentham wine. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 43

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THE NEW & IMPROVED KNAPPSTEIN A changing of hands but not quality & consistency. NIGEL HOPKINS “THERE has been change. Since the toured the vineyards, and you could just “You get this really lovely early flavour change in ownership in 2019 a whole new tell this was going to be a special site. development. Cabernet is all about team has come on board, but what hasn’t It’s a really spiritual, special place for us.” tannins, so you get this beautiful structure changed is the fruit. That’s been consistent and beautiful texture from the grapes. the whole time and underpins the quality It’s not surprising that Perth-born Kane And it continues to develop – it’s just a of the wine being maintained.” is passionate about cabernet sauvignon. beautiful variety.” After he left university in Perth, he moved That’s Knappstein Senior Winemaker to Margaret River where he stayed for Kane’s cabernet comes from the Michael Kane reflecting on the 2019 sale of 14 years, working first at Devils Lair, Enterprise vineyard, located on the Clare Knappstein Enterprise Winery to Chinese- part of the Treasury group, then at Stella Valley’s famous terra rosa soils over owned Yinmore Wines, marking yet another Bella where he says his love affair with limestone, where its low-yielding vines stage in one of the Clare Valley’s most cabernet sauvignon began. bear fruit with incredibly bold concentration respected wineries that was established by of flavour, distinctive olive leaf flavours Tim Knappstein in 1969. Since then, it has A move to South Australia saw him with fine natural tannins and striking been no stranger to change, having been working with Wolf Blass in the Barossa acidity derived from the iron rich soils and acquired by Petaluma in 1992, then part of Valley for 18 months, but he says this the limestone geology. The calibre and Lion Nathan, followed by Accolade Wines. was basically a “stepping-stone to where typicity of the vineyard has shone through I wanted to be – heading a small to consistently over time and is the source of But as far as Kane is concerned, there medium-sized winery with real stylistic the single vineyard Knappstein Enterprise are just two constants that are relevant to control over the wine and direction of the Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyard also has the Knappstein brand today: the history winemaking team.” riesling vines, whose first vintage under the and heritage of the winery site, and its Knappstein label was in 2020. three prized vineyards, two of them – Which is what he now has at Knappstein, the Enterprise vineyard and the Mayor’s working with consultant winemaker The Mayor’s vineyard, so named vineyard – dating from 1969, while the Michael Farmillo. because it was “planted” by a former third, the Ackland vineyard at Watervale, Lord Mayor of Adelaide in 1969, is on the provides some of the region’s best riesling “We’re really proud of our history, but eastern ridge of the Clare Valley at 500m grapes. Altogether they total some 112ha. now we’re looking at harnessing that past,” altitude. Its calcium calcrete soils are Kane says. “Eventually it comes down to dotted with slate and produce savoury “They’re beautiful sites,” Kane says, our key resource, which is our grapes. shiraz wines. The low cropping vines and “especially the Enterprise vineyard, cool elevation combine to create wines of which produced the 2019 Enterprise “We all talk about riesling being great varietal characters and complexity. Cabernet Sauvignon that did so well in synonymous with Clare and there’s no the Winestate tasting (5 Stars/98 points). question about that. But it was really Knappstein’s Ackland vineyard was As a winemaker, when I first walked into obvious to me that cabernet sauvignon in planted in 1971 overlooking the nearby that vineyard, I knew it was special. the Clare Valley is a superb variety. It grows Watervale township. It captures the full Before I started making wines here, we exceptionally well here, really consistent, afternoon sun to develop strong lime and the flavour spectrum is really up there with some of the world’s best regions. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 45

“We’re really proud of our history, but now we’re looking at harnessing that past,” Kane says. “Eventually it comes down to our key resource, which is our grapes.” 46 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

and citrus flavours, while its 420-450m Cellar door manager Tania Matz says altitude and cold night-time temperatures encourage high natural acidity. The delicate the renovations, which includes a fully floral nuances of the Knappstein riesling grown here are unique to the handful of renovated cellar door and tasting room, vineyards within this Watervale area. will breathe new life to the property and “The Ackland vineyard produces a more fruit-driven style of riesling, lighter and more Knappstein brand: “It’s exciting to now have modern in style,” Kane adds. a cellar door that matches Knappstein’s Kane insists the winery’s new ownership hasn’t influenced the type of wines he rich history and enviable winemaking wants to make: “Stylistically, it’s all been about respecting what’s been done in the reputation,” she says. past and respecting the vineyards and winery site overall. A new wine lounge, to be opened later “There’s been no shift in style, but I do this year, takes over the site's original want to make more modern, fresher, more vibrant wines that reflect the overall general tasting room and repurposes the space shift in Australian wines,” he says. “That means lower alcohol, less oak influence, into a cosy retreat for guests. And for less malolactic fermentation and all those winemaker artifices.” the first time, Knappstein will open to One area where there has been recent the public its underground cellar venue, change is in Knappstein’s cellar door. When Yinmore Wines bought Knappstein, it said it which will be a unique space for major was “committed to significant investments” at the winery, and that’s been realised with events, live music performance, private its first major renovation in the last 15 years that spans the entire heritage-listed Enterprise tastings and dinner functions. Brewery building, first established by Fanny Eliza Filgate, daughter of Clare’s founder It’s an investment that reflects Knappstein’s Edward Burton “Paddy” Gleeson, in 1878. renewed focus on developing its domestic market: “Even before COVID 19 and the China tariff hit we were focussed on building our brand domestically and getting it back to where it once was in its heyday,” Kane says. “We were never firmly established in the China market, so that was never really part of our direction,” he says. “From the start our direction has been to maintain a strong brand domestically and to rebuild that to what it used to be.” Previous pages left to right top to bottom: Knappstein Wines renovated cellar door interior, Knappstein vineyard, exterior of cellar door, exterior of winery and Michael Kane with museum wine. Opposite page left to right top to bottom: Michael Kane, Knappstein vineyard, interior of renovated cellar door and Knappstein bottles of wine. Photo credits Daniel Blackman. July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 47

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING I USED to live around the corner from The Australian companies to breed and beetroot-cured Mount Cook salmon with Robin Hood Hotel in Waverley and have and market wagyu beef over 20 Yarra Valley salmon pearls, charcoal-roasted driven past its Art Deco exterior countless years ago. Run by family scion, wagyu rump with pommes dauphinoise times. But the grand old dame of Charing Patrick Warmoll, Jack's Creek and the moreish burnt butter hummus that Cross has had a facelift a Hollywood superstar took the title of World's Best Steak Producer in Schroeter admits to poaching from the now- would envy because there is no downside. 2015 and 2016 and World's Best Fillet Steak defunct The Thievery restaurant further down The multi-million dollar renovation was in the in 2017. Glebe Point Road. works for five years and owner Daniel Whitten has done his family proud. The open, custom-made charcoal grill at With such a glam setting, cocktails are a Lorraine's is beef central for three major cuts major focus. Charlie Ainsbury (ex-Proof & There has been a pub on the site since the - Jack's Creek Black Angus bavette (flank), Company and This Must Be the Place) has mid-19th century and the current building Scotch fillet and ribeye on the bone. Frites curated an addictive lineup including the was built by Tooth & Co in 1938. Whitten's accompany the first option with red wine jus Beckett's martini made with Widges gin and grandmother, Lorraine Havin, was one of the and baby potatoes doing the honours in the Mancino Secco vermouth. Sasha Siljanovic first female licensees in NSW and took over two other choices. Another popular order from (ex-Nomad and Spice Temple) has put the reins in 1979. She would have a hard time the grill is chicken vadouvan, a half or full bird together a distinctive wine list that provides recognising The Hood, as locals call the pub, with French-style curry seasoning. great pairings for Schroeter's classic dishes after its recent reincarnation. and new creations. Vegetarians are catered for with ricotta The extensive project split the hotel into two gnocchi and grilled Savoy cabbage with Beckett's, 134A Glebe Point Road, Glebe. main parts - the public bar downstairs and sour cream, pickled raisins and macadamia Phone (02) 9566 2167. an upscale European bistro-style restaurant nuts. There's a trio of desserts but I highly and events space upstairs. The three level recommend a taste treat you won't find The $1 billion redevelopment of the Australian gut-and-rebuild is the work of H&E Architects, elsewhere - the olive oil gelato with lemon Technology Park in Redfern has been one of who also designed the dramatic Barangaroo madeleines. Smooth, deeply satisfying and the nation's largest urban projects. The much- House in the CBD, and Design Miss M, with spiked with fresh herbs. awaited South Eveleigh dining precinct finally Lorraine's Bistro the icing on the cake. opened in April and May and top of the list for The Robin Hood has something for everyone many was Re, which bills itself as Australia's Polished hardwood floors, exposed brick from great food to live music and a host of first no-waste bar/restaurant. The brainchild of walls, a marble bar and a soaring atrium beers on tap, including select craft favourites Matt Whiley (ex-Scout) and Maurice Terzini ceiling semaphore affordable luxury the Wayward Brewing and Batch Brewing. It's also (Icebergs and Ciccia Bella), it is located in a minute you reach the top of the stairs. The open until the wee small hours for night owls. heritage-listed former locomotive workshop. head chef is Clement Marchais, ex-Peppe's Whitten describes the revamp as a taste of the Sustainability is top of the agenda and bars in Bondi, who has also worked with Michelin- Inner West in the Eastern Suburbs. The Hood and tables are made from recycled bottles starred superchef, Alain Ducasse. Whitten is also a magnet for locals and two young guys and Tupperware and plastics and milk cartons is a knowledgeable and enthusiastic wine were playing chess in the public bar as we left have been used in the structural features. lover who attended Roseworthy College. An to prove the point. expertise showcased in the hotel's premium There's nothing hairshirt about the food and wine room with 200 exceptional wines on offer Lorraine's Bistro, The Robin Hood Hotel, 203 drinks. Some of Sydney's leading bartenders and also in the drive-through bottle shop. Bronte Road, Waverley. Phone (02) 9389 3477. are in attendance, including Evan Stroeve (ex-Bulletin Place) and Ho Song (ex- Cantina Marchais collaborated with leading Beckett's in Glebe is another do-over. The OK), dishing up distinctive takes on classic restaurant consultant, Phil Davenport, to Glebe Point Road corner location once hosted cocktails served in reclaimed Maison Balzac create the French-inspired menu. Don't the longstanding Darling Mills restaurant, and glasses such as Wimbledon gimlet. ignore the bread and snacks. The sourdough more recently Darbar Fine Indian Cuisine. To bread with pepe saya butter is a highlight of suit the new brasserie concept, the gated, Alex Pritchard, head chef at Icebergs, is in any visit, as is the shiitake mushroom paté. semi-underground sandstone space has charge of the menu and uses market surplus Marchais has wisely included charcuterie in been gussied up to mimic a mid-20th century and trim in the kitchen. But not so you would the lineup and the country-style pork terrine New York or Parisian wine bar. Think a baby know it, chowing down on puffed soy beef with cornichons is the hero. grand piano, small bar tables, banquette tendons, eggplant ceviche and the St John Sharing is de rigueur with the small and seating in the bar and ochre-coloured chairs Rarebit, the speciality of the famous London large plate selections. We plumped for the and snow-white tablecloths in the dining room. pioneer of no-waste, made from cheddar octopus, harissa and garlic aioli and charcoal cheese, Worcestershire sauce and Guinness. leek, hazelnut and truffle vinaigrette to start. Jeff Schroeter (ex-Bistro Moncur and Whitten also owns the Tamworth Hotel and Bayswater Brasserie) helms the ranges and Re, 2 Locomotive Street, Eveleigh; no the Gunnedah Hotel in regional NSW and his partner in the venture is playwright-director, phone. the former has a big footprint on the menu. Wendy Beckett, who tapped a set designer The country music capital of Australia is also for the evocative interior. The standout of the Top: Interior of Lorraine's Bistro restaurant. the location of Jack's Creek, one of the first menu is Schroeter's famous Queensland- sourced vanilla lobster and the seasonal menu centres on listings such as Never Never gin 48 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS IT’S rare that a restaurant of the quality of If it’s on the menu, then try the trinchado – Adelaide. Open for lunch and dinner Aurora opens with so little fanfare, trumpets a powerfully-flavoured South African meat Tuesday to Sunday. Phone (08) 7077 3948. blowing and so on, but that’s consistent with dish, in this case made with chicken livers in the very understated manner in which its a peri peri gravy. You will want to order more. Daughter in Law describes itself as a surrounding business and/or artistic venture Aurora, 63 Light Square, Adelaide. Open “Fringe pop-up” but it’s clearly here to stay in has been launched. for lunch Thursday to Friday and Sunday, the former Taj Tandoor premises at the busy dinner Wednesday to Saturday. Phone (08) end of Rundle Street. The fact that it often Aurora is part of an $11 million complex 7089 9600. seems to be packed when its neighbours housed in an historic Adelaide building that are half empty also speaks volumes for the includes a range of creative performance Although Adelaide’s SkyCity is a place popularity of its offering. spaces and hospitality ventures, more than where people go to gamble, it continues to can be fully explained here. But with Aurora open restaurants that seem to be sure-fired With its pastel pink tables and salmon the aim is to have a highly creative restaurant winners and are sufficiently removed from walls, it’s hardly a typical Indian-style built on seriously held sustainability the gambling side of things to be seen as restaurant. But then neither is its menu principles, and to make that happen stand-alone restaurants. which, while clearly Indian inspired, admits responsibility has been given to head chef to “respecting tradition” whilst “following Brendan Wessels, who previously had a Such is the case with iTL, an Italian its own path”. Rather than hardcore similar role at the acclaimed d’Arenberg restaurant whose enormous floor to ceiling dishes such as vindaloos and tindaloos, Cube restaurant. windows overlook the Festival Centre and this is “India light” with dishes such as the city’s riverbank precinct. Inside the “unauthentic butter chicken”, Aussie lamb Aurora is, perhaps a little more down to kitchen is dominated by twin white, space- chops with mint chutney and cumin yoghurt, earth but the beauty and finesse of Wessels’ age looking wood ovens, but as you look or chilli margarita naan pizza. dishes is possibly more pronounced than further it’s obvious that iTL is a very serious ever, helped along by equally gorgeous piece of restaurant design created as part It’s a formula that works – so long as you’re surroundings whose semi-industrial style is of SkyCity’s $330 million expansion. not dogmatic about Indian authenticity. tempered by soft lighting, parquetry floors, Start with Balls of Happiness, or gol gappa, discrete little table lights, comfy banquettes It was a two-year project for design firm crunchy hollow chickpea balls filled with a and smooth service. Genesin Studio who teamed with Adelaide yoghurt, mint and tamarind sauce, or thinly architects Walter Brooke, and it’s worth sliced kingfish in coconut broth with chili oil Wessels’ South African heritage is having a studious look around before you and a crisp pappadum before moving on to evident in his kitchen with a purpose- get distracted by menu and wine list. It a roasted snapper curry. A side dish might built braai, familiar to the rest of us as a had to have a “mid-century Italian feel” to be asparagus topped with grilled Comte rather sophisticated barbecue, but this is it, according to the designers, and you can cheese, the only Indian element being sophisticated cooking that goes well beyond start by admiring the pink marble terrazzo that the asparagus has been seared in a any contemporary cooking in his homeland floors before checking out the bar stools, tandoor oven. and puts Aurora in the top echelon of the down lights and so on. Adelaide restaurants. The only way to finish the meal is with some Eventually, though, head chef Luca kulfi icecream, cleverly shaped like a candle Snacks to start might include gin-cured Guiotto’s menu will grab your attention, on a skewer. Daughter in Law, 290 Rundle New Zealand salmon with puffed skins and with gorgeous looking starters such as Street, Adelaide. Open for dinner Tuesday fat salmon roe or a crumbed slice of pulled a fat pillow of burrata surrounded by tiny to Sunday. Phone (08) 7228 6182. pork belly with pepper sauce topped with a heritage tomatoes and wild olives, or couple of hot green chilies. Kingfish sashimi grilled slivers of squid tossed in nduja Top left: Squid with polenta from iTL restaurant. is given brilliant treatment with Szechuan sitting on a bed of soft enriched polenta. Above: Kingfish from Aurora restaurant. pepper and grated green tea-cured egg Even though the soft wide strips of freshly- on top and tapioca crisps, then move on made pappardelle with braised lamb to something from the braai – perhaps ragout is the big seller here, you’ll have to really simple grilled garfish or grilled tiny try one of Luca’s pizzas – the iTL topped leatherjackets, served with a warm yuzu- with local prawns would be a good choice. infused beurre blanc. iTL, SkyCity Adelaide, North Terrace, July/August 2021 W I N E S TAT E 49

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS AT the time of writing, the Hong Kong with a brand new concept and new chef of a new Sheraton Hotel. The Upper government has brought out a bewildering in the form of Matthew Kirkley who Deck Bar and Grill is a new American new multi-tiered categorisation of dining has worked in a number of Michelin- steakhouse primed to appeal to all restrictions, depending on restaurant starred establishments, including Hong hungry carnivores. Using dry-aged cuts staff and patrons’ vaccination statuses. Kong's very own Amber at the Landmark – ranging from 21 to 30 days – standout Spanning four categories, restaurants Mandarin Oriental. Kirkley’s signature dishes include Porterhouse and beef can open until 6pm, 10pm, 12am or 2am, dishes include a colourful turbot with tartare, oven-roasted bone marrow, and and have up to two, four, six and eight beurre cancalaise, a rather artful looking beef short rib, among others. Non-beef people per table. Confused? So are we. salade gourmande with veal tongue, foie options include barbecue smoked spring In fact, so baffling is the new ‘vaccine gras, black truffle, and haricots vert; and chicken, pan-seared seabass and some bubble’ system that several restaurants a rich and flavourful sausage wrapped in particularly succulent lamb burgers. The have opted to revert to the last set of bread otherwise known as cervelas en Upper Deck, Shop 101, 1/F, T Bay, 9 Yi restrictions which will remain at four brioche, and a reinvigorated version of Tung Road, Tung Chung, Lantau; phone diners per table and choosing to close the pigeon pithivier. Belon, 1/F 1-5 Elgin +852 2757 8889. at 10pm. Despite all of this, there are Street, Central; phone +852 2152 2872. some brave new dining ventures which Visit belonsoho.com Casa Cucina & Bar is a new Italian have opened up their doors and are eatery, with its Instagram-friendly pale determined to help Hong Kongers endure Once home to, well, not very much pink interior and French windows, yet another month of closed borders and particularly with regards to dining, the offering three floors of dining space – compulsory mask wearing. district of Tung Chung adjacent to Hong private dining floor, large open kitchen, Kong International Airport, has seen a cocktail bar and all – in the heart of Sai The ever popular upscale French bistro, glut of new restaurants, thanks to the Ying Pun. The Cicchetti-inspired menu Belon has now reopened on Elgin Street rejuvenated waterfront and the opening (small bites style) created by executive chef and Amber alumnus, Anthony Cheung is filled to the hilt with delicacies such as carpaccio with pineapple, yuzu, evo and shiso flower; crispy fritto misto with scallop, squid and shrimp; duck leg ragu pappardelle with chicken liver and parmesan; braised oxtail ravioli; rustic tiramisu and loads more. Casa’s menu also features a selection of cocktails and mocktails to enjoy inside or in the semi- alfresco open windows setting, if you can bear the humidity. Casa Cucina & Bar, Shops 8 & 9, 158A Connaught Rd W, Sai Ying Pun; phone +852 2887 9666 or visit casacucina.hk Top left: Interior of Casa Cucina restaurant. Top right: Food from The Upper Deck restaurant. Left: Food from Belon restaurant. 50 W I N E S TAT E July/August 2021