MAY/JUNE 2011 WINESTATE VOL 34 ISSUE 3 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDESWEET WHITE & FORTIFIEDS ADELAIDE HILLS CENTRAL & WESTERN NSW NELSON & WAIRARAPA, NZ btehset44wo3 tefasstetd SO YOU THINK LONGYAN, YOU’RE COOL KOSHU, Canada’s 30 below wine regions POKDUM, ARKAVATI Asia’s unusual grape varietiesPRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 May/June 2011 Fashion in aGlass Vol 34 Issue 3 Identifying shifting wine trends $9.95 AUS (inc GST) NZ $10.95 SGD $14.95 US $14.99 UKP/EUR 7.95 WINE TUTOR botrytis and beyond plusCentral & Western NSW • Adelaide Hills • Nelson & Wairarapa, NZ
WINE EXPERTS FLOAT THEIR VIEWS ABOUT WINE SHIELD.HBT/WPR081/W/DPS
Wine Shield keeps wine fresh by dramatically slowing the oxidation process that spoils opened wine. Because taste and aroma is retained, wine experts are among its biggest fans. “I’ve trialed Wine Shield on many Riesling’s, Pinot Noir’s and Grenache’s, varieties that traditionally oxidizes very easily. I found I could keep bottles opened for 5 to 8 days without any loss of fruit purity or palate structure. I even tested Wine Shield over 45 days on a bottle of California Syrah and the wine barely budged over the journey. Before I was pouring many bottles out and that was a real waste. We are even using them in our tasting room in Burgundy, France and the results have been amazing. We have seen an immediate lift in sales as we are able to taste our Premier and Grand Cru wines on a regular basis, which was previously not possible. It’s a truly brilliant invention that adds value to every bottle you open”. Michael Twelftree Proprietor, Two Hands Wines, South Australia. “We always have about 14 wines available by the glass. Because Wine Shield is a single use device, it appealed to me. I know with gas you can’t be sure if it’s even been done. Wine Shield is such a simple solution and it works. Once it becomes part of your practise, wastage becomes virtually nil”. Anthony Jones Founder of The Deanery Restaurant and Wine Bar, Melbourne. “Wine Shield sits like a little seal on the top of your wine. It’s actually better, believe it or not, than the air preservation systems – whether it’s the sparging systems or the vacuum type systems. It costs about 25 cents per unit, but it will literally hold the wine brilliantly for about 4-5 days without any change whatsoever. I highly advocate it. If it’s an expensive bottle of wine, it keeps it better, integrity-wise than anything I’ve worked with.”. Emily Wines Master Sommelier, Wine Director Kimpton Hotels, San Francisco.www.wineshield.comOrder from our distributors or direct, visit our website and keep your wine tasting fresh – right to the last glass.
NO.241 MAY/JUNE 2011Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] NZ Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Sub-editor Mike JaenschAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Art Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] Marketing Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Coordinator Kylie Hole E-mail: [email protected] Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Graeme Andrews, Valmai Hankel, Nigel Hopkins Victoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod Properjohn Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael CooperNational Travel Winsor Dobbin USA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gaston ADVERTISING SALES Australia, New Zealand & International Peter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Greg Reid, Sponsorship Consultant - [email protected] NSW, South Australia & Victoria Winestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] QueenslandJaye Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] Western AustraliaKym Burke - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766 WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandIndependent Magazine DistributorsInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2011 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au
contentsMAY/JUNE 2011FEATURES R E G U L A R S34 Small is beautiful as Cook 10 BriefsStrait neighbours revel in their 17 Cooper’s Creed with Michael Coopersuccessful niche 18 European Report with Sally EastonTheir share of the New Zealandvineyard area and wine production 20 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartleyis tiny, yet the regions of Nelson and 22 Wine Travel with Elisabeth KingWairarapa punch well above their 24 Wine History with Valmai Hankelweight when it comes to premiumpinor noirs and cool-climate whites, 61 Grapevine as Michael Cooper explains. 52 66 Wine Words36 Visual and vinous delights in the 93 How We Judge 94 What’s it Worth?secret hills on Venice’s doorstep 96 Wine Investment & Collecting 162 AftertasteInland from the tourist magnet canals 48 Fine talents head in excitingand gondolas of the enchanting city of directions on Deviation RoadVenice there’s a whole different world It’s taken only a decade forto explore. Giorgio Fragiacomo takes husband-and-wife team Hamisha tour of the Colli Euganei (Euganean and Kate Laurie to make the wineHills) and discovers a sensational array world sit up and take notice of theirof wines amid the stunning scenery. Deviation Road label. Nigel Hopkins40 Fancy a drop of longyan, finds out how their complementary 69 Winter Beers, New Releaseskoshu or pokdum? talents are bearing bountiful fruit at and Top 40 Best Buys under $20.Asia slips beneath the radar of most their Adelaide Hills winery.wine connoisseurs, but home-grown 52 The wine marketing challenge ofwine grape varieties go back a long identifying shifting trendsway in the East. Denis Gastin reveals Wine drinkers can be a fickle bunch,some of the offerings of China, Japan, always looking for the next trendy drink.South Korea, Thailand and India and Chardonnay gave way to sauvignonexplains their origins. blanc, which gave way to pinot gris/44 If you think you’re cool, try this grigio, but what’s next? Chilean-bornCanadian wine region David Stevens-Castro examines theThere may be some genuinely cool wine marketing challenge of wine fashion.regions in Australia and New Zealand, 56 Millbrook revels in its idyllic 56but the temperature challenges these location and growing reputationgrapegrowers face are small compared The road south from Perth to Margaret TAST I N G Swith those in the Canadian province River is a well-travelled route for wineof Ontario. Winsor Dobbin checks out aficionados but, as Mike ZekulichPrince Edward County. writes, they would do well to stop after just 45km and sample the outstanding WINE wines and superb scenery at 108 Western Australia Jarrahdale in the Perth Hills. 126 Central & Western NSW 134 Adelaide Hills 140 Sweet & Fortifieds 148 Nelson & Wairarapa, NZ 152 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases Winestate Magazine Issue Number 241 May/June 2011 Cover photograph © Ina Peters.
editorialTHE FOCUS IN THIS ISSUE is on cool-climateregions, with regional tastings including the AdelaideHills, Western New South Wales (Orange, Cowra, Mudgeeand Hilltops, plus Southern Highlands) and the NewZealand South Island regions of Nelson and Wairarapa.And, of course, our big annual tasting of the Best of theWest also includes the cool regions of Pemberton andGreat Southern. We look forward to adding the wines ofTasmania in the next issue. One of the things that sets cool-climate regions apart istheir sensitivity to each year’s climate change, where weatherat vintage time can make a great vintage, or sometimes, adisaster. The warmer regions have to deal with issues of fruitachieving physiological ripeness because it ripens almosttoo quickly, giving high alcohol levels (translated into sweetfruit). In quick-ripening warmer years, physiological ripenesslags behind, and we sometimes see the effect of sweet/sour green seed tannins in the wine, along with added acid. The cool-climate regions have the opposite problem, whereacids are naturally high and appropriate sugar levels are hard to achieve, but due to longer ripeningperiods they have physiological ripeness (with seeds being dry and crunchy rather than green). In these regions site selection is critical and, while some mock wine lovers as snobs when they talkabout which side of the hill the grapes are grown, to the winemaker in a cool-climate region it is a criticalfactor. Sunlight, shading and wind chill factors in the fruit growing cycle can make a real difference inthe ultimate quality of a wine. As the real estate people say, it’s all about location, location, location. For our featured articles we continue the theme, with Winsor Dobbin venturing to Canada, GeorgioFragiacomo roaming the Venetian hills and Denis Gastin revealing Asian wine varietals from Chinaand Japan that you may not have heard of before. All in all, it makes for some most interesting reading and, hopefully, some different winerecommendations that you can try. I feel a chill coming on. Please pass the glass!Cheers! Peter Simic NIGEL HOPKINS GREG REID Editor/Publisher Adelaide-based Nigel A senior journalist and Hopkins has written about wine writer, Greg ReidNEW FACES ON OUR TEAM the Australian food and moved into public relations wine industry in South in 1979, launching many DAVID STEVENS-CASTRO Australian, national and wine companies including David Stevens-Castro is international publications Krondorf, Grant Burge, a sommelier, wine expert for 25 years. Director of a Kingston Estate, Palandri and agricultural scientist strategic communications and Haselgrove Wines. from Chile who works consultancy, he lives on a He was foundation from Byron Bay, NSW, vineyard growing pinot noir president of the Adelaide as an independent wine grapes in the Adelaide Hills. Wine Press Club. expert who regularly writes, presents and interacts with the wine world and through his website www.latinocellar.com. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 9
briefsBROWN BATON DALWHINNIEPASSED MILESTONEROSS Brown calls it a THE RECENT celebratorychanging of the guard tasting of 30 years ofbut emphasises that his Dalwhinnie wines saw ownerdecision last month to step David Jones reflecting ondown as chief executive where he and his family hadofficer of Brown Brothers come from and where theydoes not mean he’s retiring. are going. The PyreneesThe last of the four Brown maker of some of Australia’sbrothers to still be involved leading shiraz, cabernetin the daily running of the sauvignon and chardonnayfamily business, Ross says feels his vineyard and hishis move will free him up wines are now beginning toto travel Australia and the reveal their true potential. “Asworld promoting his company’s wine while also continuing long as our wines are still ageing for 10 to 15 years then I’m veryhis work on wine industry bodies. “I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the comfortable,” says David.excitement and demands of the top job,” he says, “but 10 yearshad always been the timeframe I saw that I could realistically In the past the majority of his wines were made under contract,work at this level.” with nine winemakers responsible over the years, but in the future David plans to build a winery on-site. He may also take over His move coincides with the arrival at the company of his winemaking himself. Since 2002, he has made Dalwhinnie pinotdaughter Katherine, who becomes public relations manager. noir and the flagship Eagle shiraz and done, it must be said, aLong-time Brown Brothers general manager Roland Wahlquist more than reasonable job of it because it is now recognised intakes over as CEO. the Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine.BIG MAN, BIG ACCOLADE MASTER OF COMMUNICATIONTHE larger-than-life Peter Scholz of The Willows Vineyard has MASTER of Wine and well-known Sydney wine auctioneerbeen named 2011 Barossa Valley Winemaker of the Year. Andrew Caillard has been named the 2011 Wine CommunicatorPeter, who started his winemaking life with Peter Lehmann, of the Year. The award, presented by Wine Communicators ofis one of the great characters of the Barossa, a big bear of Australia (WCA), honours excellence in wine communicationa man with a heart of gold. In a region noted for talented that improves the consumer’s understanding and the imagewinemakers he is also one of its most naturally gifted. Consider of Australian wine. Andrew was praised by WCA presidenthis recent performance at the 2010 Barossa Wine Show, when Rob Hirst as a highly regarded communicator noted for hisThe Willows took out six trophies including trophy for the most exceptional depth of knowledge and intellectual approachoutstanding wine of the show with The Willows 2010 Riesling. “balanced with sincere passion for the Australian wine industry.”It was a record-breaking performance. Former winners include journalist Peter Forrestal, wine “Pete is liked and respected by everyone in the region and educator Peter Bourne and Paul Henry, former generalis truly one of the great guys of the Barossa,” said fellow manager of market development at the Australian Wine andwinemaker Stephen Henschke, Grand Master of the Barons Brandy Corporation.of the Barossa, who presented the award at the annualDeclaration of Vintage ceremony in the Barossa Valley. ANNOINTED SON A NEW generation of the Ellis family is set to take the winemaking reins at Hanging Rock Winery in the Macedon Ranges. Robert “Rob” Ellis, son of John and Ann, has been appointed the new head winemaker at the winery that specialises in sparkling and table wines from Macedon and Heathcote. John Ellis, who founded the winery in 1982, says the decision to give Rob more responsibility doesn’t signal his own retirement. “I’m not hanging up my boots yet,” he says. He considers his new role as “mentor” to his son, who has spent recent vintages making wine at Hewitson winery in the Barossa Valley. Daughter Ruth is also involved in Hanging Rock Winery, in charge of sales and marketing.10 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
briefsARTISTIC ENTRIES ARTISANS SHARE A DOORA YOUNG New Zealander THE ARTISANS of Barossa group has opened a shared cellarwho worked vintage in the door offering tastings and wine flights of some of the region’s mostYarra Valley during the 2009 talented winemakers, many of whom have not previously had abushfires is repaying the tasting/sales outlet. The cellar door - at the corner of Magnolia andregion with a photographic Light Pass roads - opened in March and offers visitors the chanceprint that targets the unique to taste wines from the Barossa’s many sub-regions in one location.winery doors of the wineregion. Winery doors? “It’s The Artisans of Barossa are Hobbs, John Duval, Massena,a way of celebrating the Schwarz Wine Company, Sons of Eden, Spinifex and Teusnerarea and its wineries,” says Wines, and founding member Kym Teusner says the Artisans planRenee Dale, who worked at Coldstream Hills winery in 2009. to embody everything good about the Barossa in their new home,“I couldn’t help fight the fires but hopefully this is a way of incorporating food, art and a program of events. “The Barossa ispromoting the region.” riding a high at the moment with national attention being placed on the small wine producers that have emerged in the past decade,” Dale, a keen amateur photographer, has photographed winery he says. “But as small producers, traditional cellar doors have notdoors in not only the Yarra Valley but the Hunter Valley, Barossa been a viable option [for us], meaning visitors to the region missValley and McLaren Vale, as well as New Zealand. Her work can out on fully exploring these wines.” The Artisans have employedbe viewed and purchased on her website, www.winerydoors.com well-known local food, wine and events identity Mel Maschio, formerly of Whistler Wines, to run their cellar door, which is openRISING DAMP DESPAIR from Wednesday-Sunday, 11am-6pm. Phone (08) 8563 3935.THE 2011 vintage across eastern Australia will go down as oneof the more challenging in recent years, with disease decimatingcrops. Rain and floods in January and February, followed by humidweather, caught many grapegrowers off guard as disease - downymildew, powdery mildew and botrytis - spread, often uncontrolled. After 12 years of drought, grapevine canopies exploded in growthand vigor, contributing to a worsening problem when it came tomanaging disease. A shortage of chemical sprays left some withoutany protection at all. Among the hardest-hit are the growers of theRiverland, already suffering from a drop in demand for their grapesas a result of the downturn in sales of Australian wine.IT’S HEATING UP, DON’T LET YOUR WINE! Most people have 6 to 12 bottles of wine that should not be kept at home. Those special wines you have been holding onto for years, waiting for that special occasion to pull the cork (or twist the cap as it may be). FOR THE COST OF A CUP OF COFFEE A MONTH Wine Ark provides: > CLIMATE CONTROLLED MANAGED STORAGE > FULL INSURANCE > 24 HOUR ONLINE ACCESS > HAVE WINE SENT DIRECTLY TO YOUR CELLAR > SELL YOUR WINE ONLINE FROM YOUR ACCOUNT > MANY MORE BENEFITS 1800 946 327 or visit www.wine-ark.com.au wine-ark FOR COLLECTORS OF FINE WINE May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 11
briefsSAVOUR TEMPTATIONS JUDGING SUCCESSIONDETAILS of Savour Tasmania, the island state’s mid-year foodand wine festival, have been released, with events scheduled in DAVID Bicknell, fromHobart, Launceston and Burnie from May 25-June 4. Now in its third Oakridge Wines in the Yarrayear, Savour has become a fixture on the culinary calendar and Valley, is the new chairmana number of leading international and Australian chefs will match of judges for the Royaltheir offerings with Tasmanian produce and wines at a series of Melbourne Wine Show.dinners and masterclasses. “David comes to us with a wealth of experience in the Among the visiting chefs will be a team of Danes led by Martin Australian wine industry as aBentzen, formerly of internationally acclaimed Noma; award- respected winemaker, judge,winning Margot Janse from Relais & Chateaux property Le Quartier and current chair of the Yarra Valley Wine Show,” says showFrancais Hotel in Franschhoek, South Africa; New Yorker Marco president Stephen Shelmerdine.Canora and Martin Boetz from Longrain in Sydney and Melbourne. David is taking the reins from Steve Webber of De Bortoli The wine program has yet to be unveiled but will include the Wines, who has held the post for the last three years andRed Wine Weekend at The Long Gallery, Salamanca Place, overseen many important changes to the structure and conductHobart on May 28-29. Tickets go on sale April 4. Visit www. of the show. David has been chief winemaker at Oakridgesavourtasmania.com for further details. Wines since 2002 and CEO since 2007. The Royal Melbourne Wine Show is considerably older, having been an annualAUSTRIAN MISSION fixture since 1884.A GROUP of leading Austrian winemakers and marketers will TRUFFLING MATTERdescend on Sydney and Melbourne in August to promote theircountry’s wines. The trade mission will hold consumer tastings WINE and food lovers should put the weekend of July 2-3 inat the Sydney Opera House on August 1 and National Gallery of their diaries for Relais & Chateaux property Chateau Yering’sVictoria on August 8 and a number of associated trade events. truffle hunt weekend, which features a truffle hunt followed“Austrian wine imports to Australia have increased significantly in by a Pommery truffle dinner and then a Domaine Chandonthe past few years, albeit from a small base,” says Willi Klinger, truffle lunch. The food will be cooked by talented chef Mathewmanaging director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board and head Macartney, who had a stint at New York’s three Michelin hatof the mission. Daniel last year, and has earned The Age Good Food Guide hats at Eleonore’s two years running. Email functions@chateauyering. The trade promotion will be complemented by wine dinners on com.au or phone (03) 9237 3333 for bookings.August 2 at the Shangri-La Hotel in Sydney and on August 9 atPersimmon Restaurant in Melbourne.Stockists of an extensive range of Italian & Spanish beveragesSpecialty Liquor Merchants La Vigna’s Recommendations from left to right Mas Pere Cava, Condes de Albarei Albarino 10, Marques de Velilla Joven 09, Giribaldi Barolo 04,302 Walcott Street, Mt. Lawley W.A. 6050 Phone: 9271 1179 Fax: 9370 3304 Valle Reale Vigne Nuove Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo 09, Ca Montini Pinot Grigio 09 Email: [email protected] W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
briefsTIM GOES SOLO SIRROMET GOES WILDTIM Smith is leaving Barossa icon Chateau Tanunda after the 2011 LEADING Queensland wine producer Sirromet has launchedvintage to concentrate on his own label, Tim Smith Wines. Tim spent ‘outdoor safari dining’ at its headquarters between Brisbanealmost five years at Chateau Tanunda, increasing the winery’s show and the Gold Coast. Chief winemaker Adam Chapman andmedal tally sevenfold. Renowned as one of the Barossa’s best boutique Restaurant Lurleen’s executive chef Andrew Mirosch willproducers, he will continue to work with mataro, grenache and shiraz team up to showcase the winery’s new ‘wild yeast’ releaseswhile sourcing fruit from the Adelaide Hills for his viognier. He will also with matching dishes at monthly events – the next of which islaunch his first Tim Smith Wines Eden Valley Riesling in 2011. scheduled for May 19. Tim, who started his wine career as a cellar hand at Yalumba in Each safari will be limited to 20 guests hosted by Adam and1997, made his first wines under his own label in 2002. He has Andrew for a wine and four-course food adventure at separatesince worked at St Hallett, Tatachilla and Chateau Tanunda, as locations around Sirromet’s 255-hectare property at Mt Cotton.well as vintages in Portugal and France. Guests will be transported between courses by tractor. “We want people to enjoy these new ‘wild yeast’ wines in natural surroundings, because it fits the theme of the wines,” Adam says. Sirromet’s new ‘wild yeast’ wines under the Le Sauvage label are a 2010 pinot gris and a chardonnay, cabernet shiraz and nebbiolo from the 2009 vintage. The safari cost is $500 per couple, including all wine and food served during the event, plus a mixed dozen of the limited- release wines to take away. Phone (07) 3822-0605 or email [email protected] CONCERTMcLAREN Vale winery Coriole will host its 13th Coriole MusicFestival on the weekend on May 14-15. The concert venue haswonderful acoustics for chamber and vocal music and after eachconcert, the musicians and audience have the opportunity to getto know each other over Coriole wines and a meal prepared byTina Llewellyn from The Rolling Pin. Phone (08) 8323 8305. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 13
briefsISLAND EXTRAVAGANZA BAROSSA’S NEW PROMOTERHAMILTON Island has lined up leading chefs Frank Camorra andDan Hunter to headline its 2011 series of Great Barrier Feast food WINE Australia’s formerand wine events from July 22-24. The five-star foodie weekends general manager for marketoffer a behind-the-scenes gourmet experience with a spectacular development, Paul Henry,island backdrop. Wine critic James Halliday will attend and pair has been engaged by thewines for the weekend meals. Barossa Valley’s peak food, wine, tourism and regional Frank, from Melbourne restaurants MoVida, MoVida Next Door, development bodies toMoVida Aqui and MoVida Terraza, will bring a Spanish accent develop a new regional brandto the Whitsundays. Dan, from the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld, strategy. The collaborative project will bring together the mostVictoria, will be the guest chef from November 11-13. His multi- appealing aspects of the Barossa’s wine and culinary heritageaward-winning country restaurant won the Restaurant of the Year and aims to reshape how the world sees the region.award from The Age Good Food Guide 2011. To book, go to www.hamiltonisland.com.au/feast or phone 1300 780 959. “The importance of creating a new perspective on Australia with regards to regional expression and artisanal culture should no longerFLOATING BUBBLES be debated - it should be acted upon,” Paul says. “The opportunity to work with a region as a touchpoint for distinctive excellence inA SPARKLING wine from Lerida Estate at Lake George in the winemaking, gastronomy, tourism and community is a great invitationCanberra District wine region was chosen as the wine to launch the to contribute to the next chapter for Barossa and Australia.”first of the Australian Navy’s Canberra-class ships at the Navantiashipyard at Ferrol in Spain in February. The ships are the largest PRIZE DESTINATIONin the Navy fleet. Each is able to transport 1000 troops with theirvehicles, along with 12 helicopters. The ship is designed for combat SOUTH Australian Brendan Carter has been named dux of Australia’sas well as humanitarian roles. The Lerida Estate 2008 Brut Rosé only Italian wine-focused education program - the Lorenzo Galli Winewas chosen by the Navy because it is from the Canberra District Scholarship. He wins a $10,000 all-expenses paid trip to Italy toand because the name Lerida Estate has a Spanish derivation. explore its wine regions and key producers. Brendan won the prize - personally contributed by the founder and proprietor of Galli Estate,ANOTHER FULL CIRCLE Pamela Galli - from a total of 15 selected scholars following a two-day masterclass at Enoteca Sileno, in Melbourne. He is in his second yearLAST month Clare Valley winemaker Tim Adams bought Leasingham, of a Bachelor of Viticulture and Oenology at the University of Adelaide.the winery where he did his apprenticeship. This month it’s PeterLeske’s turn. Peter, with his wife Kathy and business partners, has COOL CONFERENCEbought the former Nepenthe winery and vineyard in the AdelaideHills, where he was winemaker from 1997 until 2006. THE EIGHTH International Cool-Climate Wine Symposium will be held in Hobart in early 2012 and event organisers have called for expressions Peter will use the winery at Lenswood as the new home for his of interest for conference presentations on the themes of cool-climateLa Linea wines, which he co-owns with David LeMire, as well as viticulture, oenology and marketing. Renowned British wine commentatorNova Vita, run by Mark and Joanne Kozned, his business partners. Jancis Robinson MW will be keynote speaker. The ICCS will be fromThe former Nepenthe vineyard is 20 hectares of premium Adelaide January 31-February 4 and will be supported by a program of regionalHills fruit including chardonnay, pinot noir and a wine that Peter wine and food activities. See www.winetasmania.com.au/iccs for details.pioneered on the property, zinfandel. AUSTRIAN INVESTMENT Australian Vintage Limited, which bought the property in 2007 fromits founders, the Tweddell family, will continue to retain the Nepenthe GRAPEGROWERS in the Adelaide Hills wine region are looking tobrand name, stock, three Adelaide Hills vineyards and the cellar door. the future and investing in a new, alternative white grape variety. Five wineries have planted the emerging white grape, gruner veltliner, as part of a collaborative project aimed at establishing the Hills as Australia’s premium region for this variety. The project is a joint venture between Adelaide Hills Vine Improvement and Hahndorf Hill Winery, which imported three clones of gruner veltliner from Austria in 2006 and which produced South Australia’s first wine from the grape in 2010. The wineries involved in the project include Longview Vineyard in Macclesfield, Deviation Road vineyard, west of Stirling, Henschke Lenswood vineyard, Mt Bera vineyard at Cudlee Creek and Nova Vita vineyard at Kenton Valley/Gumeracha.14 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
briefsCOWRA CHASES QUALITY LODGE YOURSELF IN LUXURYCOWRA wine grape growers report that shifting their focus from AUSTRALIAN lovers of luxury - and fine wine and food - arebulk production to quality has paid major dividends despite the being offered Winter Special rates at three of New Zealand’s bestoverall output from the region declining significantly over the past lodges: Kauri Cliffs, the Lodge at Cape Kidnappers and Matakaurifive years. Cowra Vignerons Association president Jason O’Dea Lodge. From May to August, guests can enjoy roaring fires andfrom Windowrie Wines says the region has received more awards local red wines in Hawke’s Bay, Queenstown and the Northland.and positive publicity. “The region grew lots of grapes for large The all-inclusive offer includes suite accommodation, choice ofwine companies but due to the oversupply the large companies unlimited green fees or a 50-minute massage per person peraren’t drawing fruit from this area.” night stayed, a five-course tasting menu, full breakfast, and use of all facilities. The cost starts at $NZ725 plus GST per person. More vineyards in the region are choosing to bottle their own See the lodges’ websites for details.wine - another knock-on effect of the change in demand.20 11 NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST WINE COMPETITION2011 DATES ANNOUNCED The New Zealand International Wine Show provides a valuable opportunity for world-class wines to be awarded by an Internationally experienced team of judges led by Master of Wine, Bob Campbell, Chairman of judges. Don’t miss this excellent opportunity to qualify your wines for the prestigious 2011 Champions List. Entries close 05 AUGUST 2011. Information and entry criteria can be found at www.nziws.co.nz. NEW ZEALAND INTERNATIONAL WINE SHOWbizambrands A1014 May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 15
nzbriefsRIESLING’S 2011 VINTAGE IN THE BALANCESINGLE-BATCHRIVALRY AFTER a mild spring, early estimates from New Zealand’s key wine regions suggested the potential for good yields from theIT’S AN unprecedented offer: 2011 vintage. “Potentially the crops in 2011 could be quite12 “great” rieslings from 12 substantial,” says John Hancock of Trinity Hill in Hawke’s Bay,“renowned” NZ winemakers, “but it really depends on what people do about that. Winemakerson sale by the case at $NZ299. have just got to make sure they do reduce crop levels rather thanWhat’s so special? The wines, try to exceed what’s realistic, in terms of sales.”ranging in style from bone-dryto unabashedly sweet, were Philip Gregan, CEO of NZ Winegrowers, has urged producersall produced from the same to “manage the supply of grapes and wine down to the demandbatch of grapes. for branded NZ wine”. That would mean a crop of 265,000 tonnes - the same as in 2010 and below the 285,000 tonnes Neil Charles-Jones is part- harvested in 2008 and 2009.owner of Waipara-basedMud House Wine Group. A 2011 vintage of 300,000 tonnes would boost the sale of wineWhile attending an awards dinner, it struck him that despite the in bulk, reducing demand for branded wines, and put furthercommon industry view that great wines are created in the vineyard, downward pressure on export prices, grape prices and land prices.it is usually winemakers who are on stage, collecting medals. FOSTER’S BOOSTS MARLBOROUGH STAKE “The question couldn’t be shaken … What if a group of skilledwinemakers made a wine with the same grapes, from one block, in FOSTER’S has upped its stake in the Marlborough wine industryone vineyard? Surely this would be a real test of the winemaker’s by lifting its share in the contract winemaking facility, Rapaurainfluence on the end product.” Vintners, from a third to a half. Babich Wines, based in west Auckland, has also boosted its shareholding to 50 per cent, On April 23 last year, 51 tonnes of riesling were hand-picked in following the recent withdrawal of a third partner, Goldwater.Mud House’s Glasnevin block at Waipara. By the morning of April The Rapaura Vintners winery can process 13,500 tonnes of grapes25, four tonnes of grapes had been delivered to each winemaker, and package over half a million cases of wine a year.who was free to handle them using any techniques and producethem in any style. Each produced 250 cases of riesling, which were CHINA BECKONS KIWI EXPORTERSsent to Marlborough to be labelled and packed into 3000 mixedcases, each containing 12 bottles, one from each competitor. NEW Zealand’s major export markets for wine are still Australia, the UK and the US, but last year, sales to China skyrocketed from At a tasting by all the winemakers involved in the New Zealand $NZ6 million to $17 million.Wine Challenge, chaired by wine judge Bob Campbell, a trophyfor top wine was presented to Matt Donaldson, of Pegasus Bay. China is widely predicted to be the world’s fastest-growing marketSee www.rieslingchallenge.co.nz. for wine over the next decade. New Zealand, with its reputation for white wines and screw cap closures, doesn’t fit some of theLABEL ACCURACY TO TIGHTEN quality preconceptions - based on classic French reds, sealed with corks - but the country’s Free Trade Agreement with China, signedOVER the past 20 years, the alcohol levels of New Zealand wine in 2008, has given winegrowers a key boost. By next year, duty onhave surged by more than 10 per cent, from an average of 11.8 NZ wine will be phased out. According to NZ Winegrowers, thisper cent to 13 per cent - and many are significantly stronger. means that “a bottle of New Zealand wine has a 15-18 per centStudies have found that a wine’s alcohol content rarely influences price advantage in real terms.”purchasing behaviour. However, an Interbrand survey in 2009,focused on beverage trends around the world, signposted health According to Singapore-based wine writer Ch’ng Poh Tiong,as a key issue: “People are increasingly interested in what’s in New Zealand’s best bet is with blends of merlot and cabernetwhat they drink…” sauvignon. “Hawke’s Bay is in an extremely good position to service that demand,” says David Babich. Babich has shipped its most Interest in low-alcohol wines is growing fast. But the stated alcohol expensive container ever to Guangzhou, packed with top-end reds.level on wines sold in NZ only has to be accurate within ±1.5 percent alcohol by volume. So a “13.5% alc/vol” red can, by law, Philip Gregan, CEO of NZ Winegrowers, believes “there is acontain anything from 12 to 15 per cent alcohol by volume. NZ great opportunity to get in at the ground level”. One of the firstWinegrowers says this rule will change shortly, nearly halving the out of the blocks is Ngatarawa, of Hawke’s Bay, which recentlypermitted variance to ± 0.8 per cent. opened a showroom in Guangzhou where distributors, retailers and restaurateurs can taste and do business.16 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPERA CENTURY OF PRAISE AND DAMNATION IN A MIXED BLEND OF WORDSTHERE is more to wine than making and came to nought. The British newspaper Thorpy concluded that “there is notdrinking the stuff. What other beverage the Daily Mail inquired in 1934 about one wine in NZ that would qualify as aor food triggers so much discussion and whether there were any “New Zealand ‘classic’ wine”.debate, by friends sharing a bottle or two or West Indian wines that could beor in the media? offered in this country?” Observed the Maynard Amerine, an American paper generously: “We Englishmen are viticultural expert who judged at the Since NZ’s first wines flowed in prepared to try anything once.” National Wine Competition in the 1970s,the early-mid 19th century, they have was a master of tact: “You make the bestattracted plenty of commentary, not During World War II, when demand NZ wines in the world.”always positive. In 1897, a New Zealand exceeded supply, quality took a backFarmer reporter “came across a bottle seat in the rush for easy profits. MP for When publicists delete a few words,of Burgundy” from Henry Tiffen’s Roskill, Frank Langstone, declared in statements become bolder - andGreenmeadows Vineyard in Hawke’s 1946 that “most of the wine in NZ today misleading. Andre Simon, the legendaryBay, planted in pinot noir and pinot is a concoction; it is not wine. There are UK wine writer, in 1964 visited Westernmeunier. “I was both surprised and no more grapes and grape-juice in a lot Vineyards, in Auckland, jotting in thepleased to find wine so matured and of of it than there are in my boot.” visitors’ book: “I have never seen a moresuch high-class quality produced, so to picturesque vineyard anywhere but inspeak, at one’s elbow. For good, sound, The 1946 Royal Commission on Tuscany.” For many years thereafter,light wine we have really no occasion to Licensing agreed. “Most of this NZ wine Western Vineyards’ advertisementsgo outside the colony.” … has been far inferior to that which brandished this memorable quote - could be imported. The Department minus the last three words.There are no more grapes and grape-juice in a lot of It still happens. Romeo Bragato,it than there are in my boot. the famous viticulturist, enthused in Dunedin in 1895 that “there was no Prime Minister Bill Massey, 17 years of Agriculture states that more than country on the face of the Earth whichlater, discussing wines made by 60 per cent of the wine made by produced better Burgundy grapesimmigrants from Dalmatia, in Croatia, the smaller winemakers is infected than were produced in Central Otagolaunched a stinging attack on “Austrian with bacterial disorders … [and] a and in portions of the North Island”.wine. I do not know whether the name is considerable quantity of wine made Contemporary citations often delete thea misnomer or not [Dalmatia was then a in NZ would be classified as unfit for last seven words.reluctant part of the Austro-Hungarian human consumption in other wine-Empire] but it is a liquor that is sold in producing countries.” Let’s hope some wineries don’t believethe district north of Auckland. I have all their own press releases. Afternever seen the stuff, but I believe it to Politicians have sometimes shown winning the trophy for pinot noir at a bigbe one of the vilest concoctions which touching faith in the quality of NZ wine. London competition in 2001, Gibbstoncan possibly be imagined. I do not MP Jonathan Hunt declared in 1968 that Valley declared the wine had beenknow what its ingredients are, but I have NZ wines were “as good as those from “Crowned World Champion”.come across people who have seen the anywhere else in the world.” The mosteffects of the use of Austrian wine as a startling claim was made by MP Mabel John Key, the current Prime Minister,beverage, and from what I have learned Howard, who in the 1970s asserted is a fan of NZ wine, in 2003 predictingit is a degrading, demoralising and enthusiastically that “NZ wines are the “there will be a very strong upwardsometimes maddening drink …” finest in the world”. trend in the industry. There is a massive international demand for our wine, and From the start, enthusiasts predicted Frank Thorpy, author of Wine in New with very good reason. We have led thethat NZ wine had definite export potential, Zealand, published in 1971, disagreed way in producing such wonderful winesbut early shipments, beginning in 1874, with the two MPs. Adopting a definition as sauvignon blanc …” by his Australian friend, Max Lake, He is, after all, the MP for Helensville, in Auckland, representing wineries in Kumeu, Huapai and Waimauku. And he was right. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 17
europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWVARYING VINTAGES, CHAMPAGNE SHUFFLE AND BIG PLANSEUROPEAN wine production continues to The coolness also aided other segment to half its current level, bydecline as the reforms of the wine sector, Mediterranean territories, including Spain. improving wines into what they call awhich called for 175,000 hectares of vines to It didn’t seem to do Champagne any harm ‘fun’ category, plus growing the posherbe uprooted, take hold. Figures for the 2010 either, where permitted yields for 2010 were gear, from petits chateaux and above,vintage show France and Italy level as biggest set nearly 10 per cent up on 2009. A wine which accounts for about a third ofproducer in the world, both having declared that‘s sensitive to the world economy saw Bordeaux production.at about 45.5 million hectolitres. Spain stays shipments rise during 2010, not quite backat number three with around 35 million. to their level before the global recession Bordeaux is no cheapskate wine sector;The three countries combined account for started in 2008. So slightly greater yields will its annual turnover is €3.4 billion inaround half of the world’s production. By allow the pattern of increasing shipments to an industry that supports 50,000 jobs.comparison, Australia produced about 11.5 be tracked by production. Another aim is to increase turnover tomillion hectolitres in 2010, around four per €4.6 billion within five to eight years, bothcent of global production. In fact, champagne sales have rebounded by consolidating in traditional markets to 319.5 million bottles, the region’s fourth and further exploiting emerging markets, But higher quality is not necessarily highest figure, and nine per cent above notably China. This is a two-way street,correlated with a smaller harvest. All three 2009’s 293 million, though sales revenue with China’s biggest wine producer, Cofco,of the top producers have been pulling up grew by only eight per cent. owner of the Great Wall brand, havingthousands of hectares. In the Languedoc and recently bought the 20-hectare Chateau deRoussillon alone - France’s Mediterranean But recovery is not the only news in the Viaud in Bordeaux’s Lalande de Pomerolterritories - 6000 hectares were removed champagne sector. Charles Heidsieck appellation. This is the country’s fourthlast year, with plans to uproot 6700 in 2011. and Piper-Heidsieck have been put up purchase of wine property in Bordeaux. for sale by their owner, Remy Cointreau. On the other side of the Massif Central,The Burgundians have done a fair amount of work Burgundy launched its ‘Bourgogne Amplitude 2015’ plan in January this year,on a voluntary system to get producers to think in a aspiring to be ‘the world benchmark in fine wines produced using sustainable wine-more planet-friendly manner. growing techniques’, said Andre Segala, manager of the Burgundy Wine Board And the 2010 weather didn’t help It is speculated that LVMH, owners of (BIVB). Implicit in this is raising the qualityeither. Europe was a bit cool and damp such brands as Dom Perignon, Moet of basic Burgundy. Exports from the regionin the early season, which caused a crop et Chandon, Krug and Veuve Clicquot suffered during the past couple of years duereduction, perhaps most emphatically in Ponsardin, or Vranken Pommery, which to the GFC, and, as in Champagne, theyGermany, where the harvest was down already owns Heidsieck Monopole, might began to recover in 2010, though value isabout 30 per cent. Low temperatures be interested. It is thought Remy wants to still only 80 per cent of 2007 peak levels.caused a small fruit set, then August concentrate on its Cognac division, whichcompounded the issue by being cool has a strong following in China. The Burgundians have done a fair amountand damp. of work on what they call ‘agriculture The GFC is still causing other classic raisonee’, a voluntary system to get Timing and selection then became an regions of France to struggle. Both producers to think in a more planet-friendlyimportant theme, especially in the Loire Bordeaux and Burgundy have brought manner, doing such things as not treatingand Burgundy. In contrast, both the Rhone out new plans to address declines.The the vineyards according to the calendar butand Bordeaux are talking up the second in ‘Bordeaux Tomorrow’ plan follows on from according to the weather and the symptomsa brace of reportedly supreme vintages. its 2005 ‘Bordeaux Plan’, while Burgundy in the vineyard. Jerome Sordet of DomaineIndeed, some in Bordeaux are saying 2010 has started a ‘Burgundy 2015’ plan. Coste Caumartin said he’d been able tois possibly better than 2009. reduce his treatments by about a third. For Bordeaux, there are four main The Rhone vintage was down 15 to 20 pillars of activity in its three-year plan. Much of the other action in the planper cent, and coolish temperatures in Key among these is to improve the revolves around a revitalised marketingAugust and September helped preserve competitiveness of basic Bordeaux. campaign to beef up the image of Burgundythe aromatic potential of the wines, while A big chunk of production is basic- across its appellations, not just the premiercolours are reported as being pretty dense. level production. The idea is to cut this and grand crus.18 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
“It’s adboeutatils,itteexatnudres,ecahsaornm, manakdiningtewrienste”swith Steve Webber, Winemaker
winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYBOTRYTIS AND BEYOND - A LUSCIOUS AND OFTEN NEGLECTED WINETHE GREAT wines of the world, in historical use between four and six local vineyards In Italy, the ancient Roman tradition ofterms, were often sweet. The Roman to source the botrytis grapes; it’s all drying grapes is still followed to producefalernian, Cape Town’s constantia of the natural infection and generally we use the sweet wines. Both black and white grape18th century, and Hungarian tokaji are same vineyards each year. We obtain an varieties make a range of wine styles suchthree classic examples. Even champagne infection of botrytis in the Riverina every as recioto in Valpolicella and Soave, aswas a hit with the Russians, when they vintage but to varying degrees.” well as the passito wines on the islandadded a sweet mixture of wine sugar of Pantelleria, which uses the muscat ofand brandy. So it is a sad comment on Winemakers face a number of challenges in Alexandria grape locally known as zibbibo.our modern drinking habits when dessert producing this style. These include knowingwines are neglected, forgotten and often exactly when to pick the grapes; protecting the Sweet grapes can also be obtained bypassed over when offered because of over- juice from an increased risk of oxidation; and cutting the vine to make the grape shrivelimbibing on heavyweight red wines earlier difficulties in pressing and filtering the thick and dehydrate. Clare Valley is one regionin the evening. But more than ever, we liquid. The fermentation has to be watched that uses the cane or cordon cut methodhave a sweet smorgasbord to choose from, carefully because at these sugar levels acetic on its riesling. Kilikanoon winemaker Kevinsourced both local and internationally. acid is produced and can spoil the wine. Mitchell, who produces Mort’s Cut Riesling, says the vines are cut when the fruit is Sweet wines can be made from either World-famous botrytis wines include around 10 degrees baume, usually aroundbotrytis-affected grapes or late picked/late the Sauternes of France and the mid- to late February.harvest grapes. Botrytis cinerea is a fungal trockenbeerenauslese of Germany. However,disease that can attack and destroy grapes the first botrytis wines are believed to have Chardonnay, verdelho and sauvignonthat are close to maturity. Given favourable come from Hungary in the middle of the 17th blanc are all used to produce sweet whites.conditions (20-25C and high humidity) it century. Legend has it that the sweet wines of The latter is used effectively in Sauternes Tokaji, in the extreme north-east of the country and Barsac to complement semillon. The Loire Valley produces some stupendousTokaji is one of the most acidic sweet wines that dessert wines in the appellation of Coteaux du Layon and its enclave Quarts deproduces a delightful sweet and sour note. Chaume, using botrytis chenin blanc.can have a desirable effect (noble rot) by bordering Slovakia, were first made when the Other techniques include addingdehydrating the grapes and concentrating the harvest was delayed because of the threat rectified concentrated grape must, orsugar content without rotting them. Due to their of an attack from a marauding Turkish army. stopping the fermentation short by addinghigh glycerol and sugar content the grapes Tokaji is one of the most acidic sweet wines a spirit in a process called mutage. Winesproduce a rich, luscious, intensely sweet that produces a delightful sweet and sour made by this process are called Vin Douxdessert wine prized throughout the world. note; it also gives the wine great longevity. Naturels in France, the most famous exponent being Muscat de Beaume de Australia produces excellent botrytis wines In Australia, Brown Brothers in the King Venice from the southern Rhone Valley.from both riesling and semillon. Botrytis Valley claims to have produced the first These retain the fresh, natural, grapeysemillon is often matured in oak and is rich Australian botrytis wines. “John Graham aromas of the variety, which is commonlyand intense, while riesling is left unoaked Brown can remember his father talking about muscat blanc a petits grains. Haan in theand is usually a touch lighter and more linear his first experience with botrytis in 1934,” says Barossa Valley uses viognier to produceand acid-driven. The Riverina is our most Brown Brothers winemaker Cate Looney. a unique ratafia-style wine which involvesfamous area for botrytis-affected semillon. “John Charles Brown made a ‘sauternes’- adding a neutral spirit to the pressing andIn the past the region tended to use flood style wine from riesling and sold it to some free-run juice and then aging in oak.irrigation and the vines developed large, ‘wine buffs’ who understood the wine butoverhanging canopies. This environment could not sell all of it, so John Charles fortified Finally, eiswein, or ice wine, is madeproduced the right moist microclimate for the rest into a sherry.” But in 1962, after rain in cold climates such as Germany andbotrytis to occur and certain vineyards delayed the harvest, father and son made Canada, where berries undergo a constantbecame susceptible every year. and bottled a botrytis riesling, labelling it as freezing and thawing process and are a late picked riesling. Today the company finally picked frozen at a temperature of Julie Mortlock, senior winemaker at De produce a successful Patricia Noble Riesling between -10 and -15C.Bortoli and responsible for Noble One, from younger vines on the original site.Australia’s leading dessert wine, says, “We SWEET WHITE & FORTIFIED TASTING STARTS PAGE 140.20 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGDELHI - MORE THAN AN ADD-ON TO THE GOLDEN TRIANGLELAST year’s Commonwealth Games The other modern marvel that has Delhi- in fashionable South Delhi, a string ofcatapulted the term ‘Delhi belly’ back wallahs reaching for the superlatives is suburbs that stretches from Humayun’sinto the headlines as swimmers and track the $7.5 billion Delhi Metro, and not only Tomb to the Qutab Minar, the world’sstars blamed lacklustre performances for its whisper-quiet trains and spotless tallest free-standing minaret. Turquoiseon the age-old malady. Perhaps their carriages. In a country where major Cottage is a scene of slim-hipped guysyouthful stomachs were overreacting to infrastructure is chronically delayed, and girls, smoke and Kingfisher beer asa few spices. Who knows? But I have the 212km network was completed on local bands blend Sufi mystical musicnever contracted even the mildest time or close enough to it. Locals love with rap. If you want to talk and be heard,stomach complaint during multiple visits. it, and visitors will too, for its low fares go to Ego Lounge in the Italian restaurantEspecially not these days with the city which begin at 25c and rise to 85c for of the same name (4, Community Centre,so hell-bent on catching up with glitzy the longest ride. New Friends Colony) for low lights, hugeMumbai and determined to show the sofas and music that riffs from bhangaraworld that it has ‘arrived’ as the major I have The Imperial on speed dial to Western. Wine bars have become ametropolis of ‘Chindia’ in the up-and- whenever a trip to Delhi is imminent. As real trend, too, serving locally made andcoming new world order. the name suggests, this luxury hotel is imported brands. Names to note are for those who fantasise about the days Spago, InSomnia, Swagath Restaurant As far as tourists are concerned, Delhi of the Raj. Located on Delhi’s grandest & Bar and The Patio.languished in the role of linchpin in boulevard - the Janpath – it’s the full‘Golden Triangle’ tours linking Delhi, 1930s ‘tea and tiffin’ deal, from its low- Delhi’s history stretches back to the sixthAgra and Jaipur for years. Yet the former rise colonial architecture to its close century BC but fast-paced developmentTurquoise Cottage is a scene of slim-hipped guys and girls, smoke and Kingfisherbeer as local bands blend Sufi mystical music with rap.stronghold of the Mughal emperors is proximity to the symbols of Sir Edwin was kick-started at the tail-end of theworth much more than the one night and Lutyens’ ‘New’ Delhi - the Rashtrapati 12th century. Get a jump start on thea day timeframe usually allotted to cover Bhawan (formerly the vice-regal lodge eons with an early-morning tour of theits 1000-year-plus history. and now the president’s palace) and World Heritage-listed Red Fort and the Parliament House. It’s hard to suppress Jama Masjid, the city’s principal mosque It could take you that long to work your a frisson as you swing up the central - both commissioned in the 17th centuryway around the new $4 billion Terminal driveway lined with 24 palm trees by Shah Jehan, builder of the Taj Mahal.3 at Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International where Pandit Nehru, Gandhi and LordAirport. Officially opened last July as a Mountbatten met to discuss the future Like the Taj Mahal, the Jama Masjidsymbol of the ‘new India’, the futuristic of India following independence. Just boasts impressive construction stats -glass-and-steel structure is India’s the place for a chota peg of Whyte and 5000 labourers and six years to buildlargest public building. Sprawling Mackay scotch and soda, the Scottish - and is the largest mosque in India andover nine levels and spread over 50 whisky maker now owned by India’s Asia. If you’re fit it costs 20 rupees tohectares, it boasts plenty more of the United Breweries. climb to the top of one of the minaretssort of statistics Indians love. There are for the best panoramic view of Delhi.160 check-in windows, 20,000 square Nostalgia can be suffocating after If you aren’t, experience the gorgeousmetres of shops and India’s biggest car a while and the need to break can architecture by wandering through thepark with room for 4300 vehicles, and strike unexpectedly. Staid was once loggias and past the central pool wherethe new facility boasts that it can handle the only description of Delhi’s nightlife thousands of worshippers wash their34 million passengers a year, lifting the but in the past five years over 200 hands, feet and faces facing Mecca toairport’s total capacity to 60 million. bars and nightclubs have opened up the west.22 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
Many people call Humayun’s Tombthe ‘test run’ for the Taj Mahal. But thewonderful symmetry and magnificence ofthis enormous red sandstone mausoleumbuilt for Shah Jehan’s great-grandfather,the second Mughal emperor who lostan empire and then regained it, is nosecond banana to its architecturaldescendant. The beautifully restoredgardens are a welcome wedge of quietamid Delhi’s busy traffic, too. Most visitors eat in their hotels. Nobad thing when prices are only about$25 for all-you-can-eat buffets at lunchor dinner, even in the five-star variety.Bollywood stars have made wine drinkingfashionable in a country that is thenumber one whisky drinking marketin the world - locally produced, notimported Scotch. So Delhi now has 15restaurants with dedicated wine lists - arecent phenomenon in India. At the 1911restaurant in The Imperial Hotel, a 15-page wine list features premium bottlingsfrom around the world with a bill to match. The Indian government sees liquorsales as a cash cow so keep drinkbills to a minimum by slurping at Ploof(Lodhi Colony Main Market) whichsells international wines at marketrates on Mondays and Thursdays.Gourmets should note the followingrestaurant names: Bukhara, Chor Bizarre,Moti Mahal Delux, Park Balluchi, Varq,Embassy and Karim Hotel. The ‘newIndia’ is entirely absent at Karim Hotel, aDelhi institution since 1913, which servesfood prison-canteen-fast in an ultra-noisyenvironment but the tandoori chicken andcurries are more than worth it. Just theplace to enjoy a Kingfisher beer, India’slargest brand and so popular that it’smade Vijay Mallya the country’s mostvisible billionaire and owner of the world’sonly airline named after a beer. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 23
winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELTHE PROLIFIC AND CHARISMATIC ANDRE LOUIS SIMON - PART 1HUGH Johnson, today’s doyen of wine the job and the journal were short- said Gardiner. “You cannot sell anywriters in English, described him as “the lived. Simon was sent to Southampton more than drink Champagne all day. Ifcharismatic leader of the English wine to improve his English. Here he met you were born a writer, the urge to writetrade for almost all of the first half of the 15-year-old Edith Symons. They were will be with you all your life, and you will20th century, and the grand old man married in London in October 1900, never be really happy unless you write”’.of literate connoisseurship for a further and were to spend 63 very happy years20 years”. He was a prolific writer: in together, until Edith died in 1963. Gardiner immediately commissioned66 years he wrote 104 books as well Simon to write 12 articles on champagneas countless magazine articles, most In 1899 Simon began his wine career for the Wine Trade Review. Theyof them on wine and/or food. For 33 as an apprentice with the champagne appeared in the magazine in 1904, andyears he was one of London’s leading house, Pommery & Greno, in Reims. were published in book form in 1905 aschampagne shippers, and for a further Three years later he was sent to The History of the Champagne Trade in33 years he was the president of the Wine Pommery’s London agent, to sell the England. As Simon wrote in the book’sand Food Society, later the International firm’s champagne throughout the British introduction, it was not intended for theWine and Food Society, which he Isles. This gave him a base in the centre public: “It has been written solely forfounded. Book collector, wine educator, of London’s wine trade, at 24 Mark Lane, those wine-merchants who are alwaysand a generous and warm-hearted bon for 30 years. Here, as well as selling anxious to add to their knowledge of theviveur, he had a huge influence on wine champagne, Simon developed his skills trade.” Published in a small edition forwriting and wine appreciation, especially as a journalist, scholar and teacher. five shillings, the book sold slowly andthroughout the English-speaking world, He had firm ideas on his champagne is now one of the rarest of all Simon’sincluding Australia and New Zealand. shipping responsibilities. A champagne books. With his inimitable mixture ofBut how many of today’s Australian and shipper, he wrote, “must be a good mixer humility and enthusiasm Simon later rather than a good salesman; neither a wrote that “it never was a good bookI had written it for the love of printer’s ink, and when I saw it published it wasmore than a joy: it was a marvellous tonic.New Zealand wine bibbers have heard teetotaller nor a boozer, but able to drink … but for me it is the most importantof Andre Louis Simon, or read any of champagne every day without letting it of all my books. I had written it for thehis writings? become a bore or a craving”. love of printer’s ink, and when I saw it published it was more than a joy: it was a Born in Paris on 28 February 1877, Simon’s wine-writing career began marvellous tonic. Now I knew for the firstSimon was one of seven children. He almost by accident. In 1903 he met A.S. time that I could write in English if I tried.”was a French citizen all his life, even Gardiner, editor of the monthly Winethough he lived in England for his last Trade Review. Unlike today, there were So fascinated was Simon by the68 years. As a young child he suffered a very few magazines devoted to wine, and history of the wine trade that hespinal injury, which led to his spending a most of those that did exist were for the continued his research on the subject,lot of time reading, instead of engaging industry rather than for the consumer. and between 1906 and 1909 wrote andin more strenuous activities. As he was In his autobiography, In the Twilight, published the three-volume A Historylater to write, this period of enforced Simon recalled saying to Gardiner that of the Wine Trade in England from therest led to his lifelong love of books, and “I had called myself a journalist once, Roman Occupation to the End of thepossibly his ambition to be a writer: his and that my ambition had been to be a Seventeenth Century. He consideredinterest in wine came later. writer, but that must now be forgotten; I this the best of all his books, but had a wife and two babies at home and despaired that the wine trade was not At 16, in 1894, Simon started his first I had to sell Champagne.” “Nonsense”, interested in it.job, on a French royalist journal. Both24 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
Vive la FranceWINESTATE WINE TOUR OF FRANCE September 10 - September 26, 2011 IN 2011, Winestate returns to France with a beautiful tour that visits most of the important wine regions in that country: Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, Burgundy, the Rhone Valley, Bordeaux and Chablis. This is our fourth visit to France and twelfth international tour overall. We have refined the tours into an outstanding combination of the best of wine, food and historical visits, with some free time to explore the old towns we visit and with restaurant recommendations at night. The tour will be coordinated by Travelrite International with Winestate editor/publisher Peter Simic as your host. It is a unique experience, combining visits to some wineries that are not normally open to the public, sampling of special vintages and meeting winemakers who are the heart and soul of the wineries. France is everyone’s first and favourite wine tour. This will be no exception!
TOUR OF FRANCE 2011THE ITINERARY an optional morning tour of the main sights of Paris. The tourDAY 1 group will meet early evening forSaturday September 10 welcome drinks hosted by PeterDEPARTURE Simic. A good-quality restaurantTour members depart Australian will be recommended for dinner.capital cities and travel overnightto Paris. It will be possible for tour DAY 3members to depart Australia on Monday September 12an earlier date – accommodation BORDEAUXwill be offered at a Paris hotel for After breakfast the tour groupclients arriving early. Please call will transfer to Paris airportfor details. to join a flight to Bordeaux, where our visit to this famousDAY 2 region will start with time in StSunday September 11 Emilion and Pomerol. ThesePARIS regions are home to many fineOn arrival early morning at Paris producers that include Chevalairport, the tour group will be Blanc, Canon, Pavie, Petrus andmet and transferred by private Latour Pomerol – their winescoach to our four-star hotel in are based mainly on merlot,the centre of Paris. There will cabernet franc and cabernetbe time to freshen up before sauvignon. Peter Simic will introduce us to some of the most important producers and DAY 5 guide us through structured Wednesday September 14 tasting sessions. There will be BORDEAUX some free time in the delightful We will travel south of small town of St Emilion. We Bordeaux for a morning visit will check into our Bordeaux to producers in the Barsac and hotel late afternoon for a three- Sauternes regions, sampling night stay. Restaurants will be world-famous dessert wines. recommended for dinner. The afternoon will be free for independent sightseeing and DAY 4 shopping in Bordeaux. We will Tuesday September 13 gather for our first Winestate BORDEAUX Magazine Celebration A full day in the Medoc, perhaps Dinner at a Michelin-starred the most famous wine producing restaurant in Bordeaux, with region in the world. We will local wines carefully selected travel north of Bordeaux along by Peter Simic. the Gironde River to Margaux, St Julien Beychevelle, Pauillac DAY 6 and St Estephe areas, home Thursday September 15 to producers such as Chateaux NARBONNE Latour, Mouton Rothschild, After breakfast we will travel Lafite, Margaux and Lynch by coach south-west to Bages. In a memorable day we Narbonne, located close to will enjoy visits to a range of the Mediterranean and at major producers under Peter the heart of the Languedoc- Simic’s guidance. There will be Roussillon region, stopping free time in one of the villages, briefly in the historic town and the evening will be spent at of Carcassone. Languedoc- leisure in Bordeaux. Roussillon is France’s biggest26 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
Vive la France!wine producing region. In the matched to an impressive YOUR EXPERT TOUR LEADERpast two decades there has menu. The evening will bebeen a major improvement in spent at leisure. Peter Simic, your tour guide, is an ideal host for this trip.standards, with an emphasis With a background in publishing and wine education for overon high-quality varietal wines. DAY 10 30 years, his wine knowledge is vast. In addition to being theMost of the production is Monday September 19 founding editor/publisher of Winestate, Peter was formerlyred wine based on grenache, AVIGNON the founding publisher of Wine & Spirit (US), manager of thesyrah, carignan, cinsault, After breakfast we travel north SA Wine Information Bureau, and wine educator with SAcabernet and merlot, with to explore the southern Rhone Regency College. He is also a regular wine commentator inmodern techniques from New region, famous for distinctive, newspapers and on radio and television. Peter recently led aWorld winemakers dominant. powerful red wines based on number of highly successful wine tours: the Winestate toursGood restaurants will be syrah blends with grenache, to France in 1999, 2003 and 2006, the QE2 Winestate cruiserecommended for dinner. cabernet and other varieties. in 2001, the Winestate tours to Italy in 2002, 2005 and 2010, We will visit Chateauneuf-du- and the Winestate tours to Spain 2000 and 2004.DAY 7 Pape, the most famous wineFriday September 16 centre on the Rhone. This DAY 12 Celebration Dinner at PeterNARBONNE deep red wine has the highest Wednesday September 21 Simic’s favourite restaurant, LeA full day of vineyard visits minimum strength of any BEAUNE Jardin de Ramparts, in Beaune.in Languedoc-Roussillon French wine and was the wine A full day of exploration ofwith expert guidance by that led to the establishment the vineyards of Burgundy in DAY 13Peter Simic. We will visit of the appellation controlee the Cote de Nuits region. We Thursday September 22some of the most important system in the 1920s. We will will travel through the famous BEAUNEemerging producers, meet visit top producers, tour the regions of Gevrey Chambertin, After breakfast we travelthe winemakers and sample a cellars, meet the winemakers Chambolle Musigny and the through the Cote de Beaunerange of the best wines. and enjoy carefully selected biggest name of all, Domaine with visits to wineries in the tastings under Peter Simic’s de la Romanee Conti. Peter great regions of MeursaultDAY 8 guidance. Good restaurants will Simic will ensure that we are and Puligny and ChassagneSaturday September 17 be recommended for dinner. invited to some fine producers, Montrachet. An optional guidedAVIGNON meet the winemakers and tour of the famous Hotel DieuAfter breakfast we travel through DAY 11 taste a range of excellent will take place early evening.Provence to the fine historic Tuesday September 20 wines. In the evening we will Good restaurants will becity of Avignon, our base for BEAUNE enjoy a fabulous Winestate recommended for dinner.three nights. On the way we After breakfast the tour groupwill stop at the wonderful Pont will travel north along thedu Gard, the superb Roman Rhone River valley to the fineaqueduct built between AD40 wine region of Burgundy. Weand AD60, and visit a leading will pass through the lowerCote de Provence producer and upper Rhone regions, thefor a cellar tour and structured Maconnais and Beaujolais, withtastings. Good restaurants will a brief stop in Lyon, the bustlingbe recommended for dinner. and impressive second city of France. We will arrive inDAY 9 Beaune, the delightful capital ofSunday September 18 the Burgundy wine region, in theAVIGNON late afternoon and check into ourA free morning to explore the centrally located four-star hotel.delightful city of Avignon, a Beaune sits in the centre of thelively centre of art and culture Cote d’Or, comprising the Cotethat was the home of the popes de Nuits to the north and Cotefrom 1309 until 1791. The tour de Beaune in the south. Theygroup will meet for a Winestate produce highly regarded red andMagazine Celebration Lunch white wines from pinot noir andat a noted Michelin-starred chardonnay grapes. Restaurantsrestaurant. Peter Simic will will be recommended andguide us through a carefully the evening will be free forselected range of fine wine independent activity. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 27
TOUR OF FRANCE 2011DAY 14 Reims, with the main producers day of vineyard visits. We will DAY 18Friday September 23 centred near Reims and around drive through the vines along Tuesday 27 September REIMS the villages of Epernay and Ay, the picturesque ‘Champagne AUSTRALIAWe travel north to Chablis, close to the banks of the River Route’ and visit two of the Early-morning arrival in Australia.a northern outpost of the Marne. There are approximately region’s main producers,Burgundy region that is famous 27,500 hectares of vines and meeting the winemakers and TOUR DETAILSfor distinctive white wines made more than 19,000 producers sampling a range of the bestfrom Chardonnay grapes. The in the Champagne region, crus. Local restaurants will be The price for the 15-night tourwines have an intense, highly although only about 10 per cent recommended for dinner. is $10,775 per person twin-charged flavour with a complex of the vines belong to the great share. Single supplement issharpness. We will visit a major international producers. DAY 16 $1500 per person. The land-producer and sample some of the Sunday September 25 only price for the tour (nobest wines under Peter Simic’s DAY 15 REIMS flights) is $8950 per personguidance. After the visit we will Saturday September 24 A free morning in Reims for twin-share. International andtravel on to the Champagne REIMS independent activity before general travel taxes and fuelregion. The Champagne After breakfast we will travel gathering for our final Winestate surcharges are additional.vineyards are located south of to Epernay and Ay for a full Magazine Celebration Lunch At November 1, 2010 they at a notable Michelin-starred were approximately $540 restaurant. A range of wines per person. carefully selected by Peter Simic will accompany a fine menu in INCLUDED IN THE a fitting celebration of our time TOUR PRICE: in France over the previous two · Return economy class air weeks. The evening will be free travel from east coast Australian for independent activity. capitals to and from Paris with Singapore Airlines. Please call DAY 17 about other Australian departure Monday 26 September cities. Domestic flight from Paris DEPARTURE to Bordeaux. Passengers will After breakfast the tour group be able to travel early or extend will travel to Paris airport to their stay in Europe at no extra connect with Singapore Airlines airfare cost. flights to Australia. · Accommodation in three- and four-star hotels with private G R E AT F O O D AN D W I N E facilities. Hotel taxes and service charges.We have found that tour members get a lot more out of their holiday if they are free to make · A full continental breakfasttheir own lunch and dinner arrangements on some of the tour days. It gives members the daily and four special Winestateopportunity to try out local restaurants - essential if they are to get to know the French - and to Magazine Celebration Luncheseat lightly or informally on some occasions. Peter Simic and the tour manager will recommend or Dinners.restaurants for each of these flexible-eating meals. Full continental breakfast daily and four · Entrances, tasting fees andspecial Winestate Magazine Celebration Lunches/Dinners are included in the tour package. special services at vineyardsThese will also be occasions on which we celebrate the food and wine of the regions. in each of the regions visited. Sightseeing and general entrance fees as detailed in the itinerary. · Tour leadership by Peter Simic, editor/publisher of Winestate Magazine. · Tour management by Travelrite International Pty Ltd, with an experienced staff member travelling with the group. · A Travelrite International travel bag.28 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
Vive la France! VERY SPECIAL EXPERIENCESFollowing the great success of previous wine toursto France, Italy and Spain, Peter Simic and the staff atWinestate have arranged for a series of very special visitsin the historic and impressive fine wine areas of France.We will visit vineyards that are rarely open to the public andsample special vintages and meet people responsible fortheir skillful production. It will be a unique time to meet thecharacters and expand our knowledge in most enjoyableand pleasant surroundings.NOT INCLUDED IN other costs at foreign exchange CANCELLATIONS. full refund of all monies paid,THE TOUR PRICE: rates at November 1, 2010. Cancellation advised more or offering arrangements to· Passport and visa fees. Travelrite International reserves than 60 days from the date proceed with the tour at a· International airport and general the right to alter the tour price of departure from Australia modified price.travel taxes. or modify the tour if any of will incur a cancellation fee of· Travel insurance. these factors change, giving $300 per person. Cancellations REFUNDS.· Sightseeing and general any passenger who has booked advised 60 days or less The tour is based onexpenses not specified in the the right to withdraw with a from the date of departure arrangements that do not allowitinerary. full refund of monies paid. No from Australia will result in for any refunds in respect of· Items of a personal nature. alteration to the tour price can be the loss of all monies paid. sightseeing, accommodation,· Additional travel arrangements made within 60 days of departure Travel insurance is strongly meals, airfare or other services– these will be quoted for from Australia. recommended to cover the not utilised after the tour hasseparately. cost of cancellation fees that commenced. DEPOSITS AND PAYMENTS. could result from a death inGENERAL INFORMATION A deposit of $500 per person is the family, illness, etc. TRAVEL DOCUMENTS.AND BOOKING CONDITIONS required at the time of booking. All passengers will need a Full payment will be required 60 MINIMUM TOUR NUMBERS. valid passport. PassengersTOUR OPERATOR. days before departure. The tour has been priced holding other than anTravelrite International Pty Ltd on the basis of a minimum Australian passport should(ABN 64 005 817 078) is the tour CHANGES. number of passengers having check requirements withoperator working with Winestate After confirmation of travel booked on the tour 60 days Travelrite International.Publishing Pty Ltd. arrangements, one change before departure. Travelrite to travel arrangements will International reserves the right BAGGAGE.TOUR PRICES. be provided free of charge. to cancel the tour if insufficient Economy-class passengersPrices are based on airfare, general Subsequent changes will incur a passengers have booked by 60 qualify for a 20kg airlinetransport, accommodation and fee of $25 for each change. days before departure, giving a baggage allowance. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 29
TOUR OF FRANCE 2011Vive la France!CHANGES TO THE whether negligent or otherwiseTOUR ITINERARY. of those carriers, hoteliersTravelrite International reserves or other persons providingthe right to change the tour services in connection withitinerary to fit in with operational the tour over whom we haverequirements. Any change no direct or exclusive control.will be replaced with similar We do not accept responsibilityarrangements with an equal or for any injury, damage, loss,greater value. delay, change of schedule, or any other events that areRESPONSIBILITY. beyond our direct control,Travelrite International Pty Ltd such as, but not limited to,(ABN 64 005 817 078 Licence war, terrorism, flood, fire,No 30858) is the tour organiser. civil disturbance, acts of God,Travelrite International acts acts of government or anyonly as an agent for passengers other authorities, accidentsin making arrangements with to or failure of machinerycarriers, hoteliers and others or equipment, or industrialfor the tour. As a result, we actions. The passage contract incannot accept liability for any use by the carriers concerned,act or omission whatsoever, when issued, shall constituteCOMFORTABLE TOUR HOTELS the sole contract between free on 1800 630 343. the transportation companies Travelrite International Pty Ltd. We have carefully selected well-located three-star hotels or firms and the purchasers ABN 64 005 817 078. (very comfortable or comfortable Michelin rating) that of these tours. Baggage is at Licence No. 30858 provide good value for money. All have clean, comfortable owners’ risk throughout the E-mail: [email protected] rooms with private facilities, and some will provide an tour. The contract between enjoyable experience of ‘European style’ accommodation passenger and Travelrite ABOUT TRAVELRITE rather than the uniformity of standardised modern hotels. International shall be construed INTERNATIONAL in accordance with the laws of Travelrite International Pty Ltd the State of Victoria. is a well-established travel company that has been HOW TO BOOK operating in the eastern suburbs Bookings can be made by sending of Melbourne for 32 years. It full names and addresses of is fully licensed and has two intending tour members with a fully accredited IATA offices, deposit of $500 per person to: at Heathmont and Balwyn. It directly represents the major Travelrite International Pty Ltd airlines of the world and all 298 Whitehorse Rd major domestic and international Balwyn 3103 Victoria tour operators. It has been operating successful tours for Further information and booking more than 25 years. Travelrite forms can be obtained by International is a full member telephoning Travelrite International of the Australian Federation of Pty Ltd on (03) 9836 2522 or toll- Travel Agents – AFTA.30 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
BISSMEAAULTLIFULCOOK STRAIT NEIGHBOURS REVEL IN THEIR SUCCESSFUL NICHEMICHAEL COOPER Straddling the south-eastern corner of an hour’s drive over the Rimutaka Range the North Island, the Wairarapa boasts 65 from the capital, Wellington. Here, theNELSON AND WAIRARAPA wineries. Martinborough Vineyard, Palliser growing conditions are closer to those of Estate and Te Kairanga are classified as Marlborough - in the South Island - thanaccount for five per cent of New medium-sized producers, but across the to Hawke’s Bay to the north, with coolZealand’s bearing vineyard area and region the average output is less than 5000 night temperatures helping to preserve theproduce even less of its wine. Yet the cases a year. Pinot noir - especially - and grapes’ fruit characters and acidity.two regions in the centre of the country, sauvignon blanc dominate plantings, backedlying on opposite sides of Cook Strait, up by chardonnay, pinot gris and riesling. Martinborough produces muscular, ripe,are the source of many classy pinot noirs rich pinot noirs, less floral and buoyantlyand vibrant, cool-climate whites from Most of the Wairarapa’s vines are clustered fruity than those from the South Island,sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, riesling, in the south, around the long-sleepy but but sturdy, warm, concentrated andgewurztraminer and pinot gris. now rejuvenated village of Martinborough, long-lived. The top names also include34 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
We are certainly riding out the storm and our bottom line is looking better than ever.Ata Rangi and Dry River, together with Masterton until recently labelled their grapegrowers are hurting, however,a new star of the show circuit - Julicher. wines as from ‘Wairarapa’, a regional term because the oversupply of Marlborough the Martinborough growers also qualify sauvignon blanc has reduced the demand If you visit the northern Wairarapa, take a for - although seldom use. But not only is from very big companies, based outsidescenic flight in a Tiger Moth. After strapping the name Wairarapa not exclusive to the the region, for Nelson sauvignon blanc.on goggles and leather helmuts, you will soar vineyards near Masterton; overseas, theto a lofty 1000 feet (according to the ancient wines are easily confused with those from Enter Warburn Estate - formerly Riverinagauges) and gaze down on 300 hectares Waipara, in North Canterbury. Wines. The New South Wales-basedof vineyards fanned out over terraces of the company has signed up numerous NelsonRuamahanga River, near the city of Masterton. This identify issue, which long frustrated growers to supply sauvignon blanc and the area’s grapegrowers, has finally pinot gris. At a time when the growers were A third of the Wairarapa’s vineyard been sorted out. Growers throughout desperate, Warburn’s contracts (to takearea lies a half hour’s drive north of the Wairarapa region have agreed to about 10 per cent of the region’s total crop)Martinborough. The producers around use three distinct sub-regional names - have thrown them a lifeline. Martinborough; Gladstone (for the large block of vineyards south of Masterton); and Nelson’s quality-based wineries are still Masterton (for the smaller plantings north performing strongly. Daniel Schwarzenbach of the city). In future, the two geographic told The Nelson Mail that Blackenbrook names you are most likely to spot on wine Vineyard, a star producer of aromatic whites, labels are Martinborough and Gladstone. is working harder to promote its wines, “but we are certainly riding out the storm and Gladstone’s vineyards, although north our bottom line is looking better than ever”. of Martinborough, are more elevated and Focusing on top quality, keeping a tight closer to the ranges. In this slightly cooler rein on expenditure without cutting corners, and wetter climate, the vines yield aromatic, and selling through specialist wine stores crisp whites and floral, vibrant pinot noirs. and restaurants are crucial ingredients in The most prominent, long-term producer is Blackenbrook’s recipe for success. Gladstone Vineyard, established in 1985. Neudorf, a distinguished Nelson producer Nelson, in the north-western corner of the which recently celebrated its 30th vintage, is South Island, has a similar varietal focus also bullish. “We have found in the Australian to the Wairarapa, except sauvignon blanc market that not having a Marlborough is more heavily planted than pinot noir. sauvignon blanc is a good market push,” Nelson’s 39 wineries are also significantly says co-founder Judy Finn, “particularly larger, with a trio of medium-sized producers in high-end restaurants where some - Kahurangi Estate, Seifried Estate and sommeliers have always been a bit snippish Spencer Hill Estate - and an average annual about anything that is too popular. We sell a production of 12,500 cases. huge amount into Sydney and Melbourne - and that has gone up in the last year.” Mike Brown, chief executive of Tohu Wines, who also chairs Nelson Winegrowers, notes Opposite: Urlar, the source of a highly impressive most of the region’s producers are family- pinot noir from the northern Wairarapa, is committed owned and without high levels of debt, to organic practices, such as recycling through giving them a major advantage during composts and liquid manures. the industry’s current glut. Specialist NELSON & WAIRARAPA TASTING STARTS PAGE 148. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 35
Allure OFTHE SECRET HILLS
Discover visual and vinousdelights onVenice’s doorstep GIORGIO FRAGIACOMOSHOULD YOU FIND YOURSELF The hills are also a national park with a wide range of habitats. On the south sidein Venice and want to escape the endless is maritime climate, with the Adriatic just acrowds and the humidity of the lagoon few kilometres east. The landscape is dottedfor some shade, beautiful scenery, and with coastal heath and olive groves and it issome unexpectedly good wines, get to the not rare to find succulents and orchids. Themainland, grab a car and drive to the Colli northern side has dense woods of conifersEuganei (Euganean Hills). Never heard and oak and gets the brunt of the cold windsof them? You are not alone - this is one of that drop from the Alps, 50km to the north.Italy’s well-kept secrets. The Colli Euganei have been steadily carving Out of the flatness of the Venetian out a reputation for producing excellent yetplain rises a surprising range of hills - affordable wines. Over the past few years asome perfectly cone-shaped, some softer bevy of wineries have received the covetedand rounder, clumped together or set Tre Bicchieri (Three Wineglass) award fromapart like giant mushrooms, the reminder the authoritative Gambero Rosso guide forof long-extinct marine volcanoes. Hot their merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernetthermal springs and the spa towns they franc/carmenere blends. The Bordeauxspawned have been the main drawcard varieties have been acclimatising here for wellhere for millennia. Roman patricians and over a century, bought over either by NapoleonVenetian noblemen have all elected to build or the Austrians, who both ruled the area in thedwellings here. The drive is worthwhile 1800s. Also acclaimed and award-winningjust to see the superb gardens of Villa are the delicious sweet wines produced withBarbarigo, with their perfectly intact maze moscato giallo, known locally as fior d’arancioyou can get thoroughly lost in! Other (orange blossom), as that is precisely what itexcuses for the drive are such medieval smells like! The mix of volcanic soils, notablyjewels as the town of Este, Monselice trachytes, and limestone means that theand Arqua Petrarca, where the great poet white wines, usually based on pinot bianco,Petrarch lived out his last years in his house are fresh and minerally.and vineyard, which are still intact.Opposite: Villa La Montecchia. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 37
A SMALL WINERY PERCHED ON A CONE-LIKE Skilful site selection and the creation of aHILL WITH A VIEW THAT STRETCHES OUT TO range of wines that showcases the differentVENICE - YOU CAN SEE THE LAGOON CITY’S terrains was one of the guiding principlesFIREWORKS FROM UP HERE. behind Vignalta, one of the three-glass award winners, founded in 1986 and set38 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011 high above the medieval Arqua Petrarca in the southern end of the hills. The choice was to use cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc or carmenere (as in Chile, the one is often the other) instead of local varieties in order to underline the impact of terroir - “with the intent to appeal to the taste of a wide international audience”, as co-owner Graziano Cardin is quick to state. Their flagship Gemola merlot and cabernet franc from volcanic soil is a consistent big
prize winner and yet has nothing of the soft with rich, earthy, chocolate nose and a descendant of an uninterrupted line ofplumminess you might expect; it is austere body cabernet lovers would kill for. The landowners from the days of Charlemagne.and elegant, full of depth and flavour finish is peppery, with the hint of varietal The Emos and the Capodilistas have beenand with a fine acid streak. The Arqua is green capsicum just to remind you it’s cultivating grapes for centuries and theessentially the same blend from vines on cab. Nestled in a secret nook behind the present count has made it his business tolimestone and the wine could not be more winery is cellarmaster Matteo Zanaica’s put the family La Montecchia winery at thedifferent; both are excellent wines showing pride and joy - a few rows of moscato giallo forefront of the hills’ production.that soils definitely affect flavour profiles. still hanging on the vines in full winter, with half the grapes botrytised, and tasting of Apart from the history and location, what Also from the south-eastern side of the apricot and kaki fruit, the ingredients to makes La Montecchia stand out is thathills is Filo della Vigna, a small winery Filo's voluptuous Luna nel Parco - a (very) of all the wineries with prolific awards,perched on a cone-like hill with a view late harvested dessert wine. this one has made it a point of honor tothat stretches out to Venice - you can stick to the local grape varieties, onesee the lagoon city’s fireworks from up Perhaps the most interesting winery above all - raboso. Having said that,here! This winery's flagship, called Borgo on the hills is the Castello di Lispida, a here cabernet and merlot are considereddelle Casette, is a cabernet sauvignon sumptuous neo-gothic manor house run traditional. The estate’s finest wines - theand franc blend - a dark, brooding wine by Alessandro Sgaravati. The agriculture delicious Ca Emo, Villa Capodilista and regime is based on the teachings of the three-glass Ireneo Capodilista - are Masanobu Fukuoka's natural farming, all based on cabernet sauvignon, merlot akin to the permaculture philosophy of Bill and carmenere. However, this winery has Mollison. Sgaravatti also had influential shown that, handled correctly, raboso, an winemaker Josko Gravner as a mentor and old local variety much out of favour, can likewise ferments his white Amphora, made have true character and, dare I say it, mainly from tocai friulano, skins and all in class! Forzate, a wood-matured version large, interred earthenware jars. The white made from partially dried grapes, shows Terralba and the red Terraforte, made from this variety ages well and is a wonderful a variety of red grapes, are fermented and food-friendly wine. Emo-Capodilista’s matured in large oak barrels. The wines sensational Donna Daria Fior d’Arancio are all extraordinarily rich and powerful. Passito is arguably the best in the area The Terraforte, from two difficult years, and deserves its consistent bevy of 2002 (rain) and 2003 (heat), are fantastic prizes. If you are looking for somewhere examples of natural winemaking, being unforgettably romantic to stay while in the soft and aged yet with vibrant fruity notes. area, look no further. The castle offers bed and breakfast and, along with the villa, is The Castello di Lispida also has luxury set right next door to the Michelin-starred lodging and a health spa from the local hot La Montecchia restaurant and golf course. water springs. Both combine modern Italian stylishness with a refined atmosphere of Other consistently good wineries are the belle epoque - a beautiful and relaxing Ca Orologio and Ca Lustra, whose wines place to escape to. exude charm and finesse. So on your next trip to Italy, make a little time, take the Driving on the northern side of the hills detour and take to the hills - you won’t be some 10km from Padova and with the Alps disappointed. If you can’t make the trip, in the distance, the wayfarer has a view look out for the Colli Euganei on the wine of a fine medieval fortified manor sitting list - and dream! atop a hill on one side of the road and a splendid renaissance jewel of villa, set in Above: Castello di Lispida. formal gardens, on another. The two belong Below: The wine cellar at Castello di Lispida was made to Count Giordano Emo-Capodilista, using terracotta bricks and unplastered stone. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 39
LONGYAN,KOSHU,POKDUM,ARKAVATI
HOME-GROWN WINE GRAPE VARIETIES GO BACKA LONG WAY IN ASIA DENIS GASTINA U S T R A L I A N S do appreciate considerable experimentation to improve A vinifera variety that has attracted a lot of the suitability of the more promising attention very recently as a possible ‘signature’varietal diversity, despite the fact that just species for winemaking, including crossing variety for China was sourced from Bordeauxfive varieties - shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, them with vitis vinifera and vitis labrusca in the 1890s by the founders of the Changyuchardonnay, merlot and sauvignon blanc (indigenous North American) varieties. venture. Locally it is known as cabernet- account for 75 per cent of the grapes we gernischt. There is speculation that it may begrow and the wines we drink. China has the longest grape and wine related to Chile’s carmenere grape, which had history in Asia, dating back more than 2000 a similar origin. Like carmenere, this variety is When seeking diversity beyond these years. In the past 100 or so years there no longer used for winemaking in Bordeauxcore classic varieties we tend to look have been a few isolated ventures that set but is impressive in the right hands in China.mostly to Italy, Spain or Portugal, and it is out to make more traditional European-stylealways vitis vinifera that we want. At the wines, usually for Christian missions, and at Wild grape species have been crossedother end of the spectrum, however, is an least two of them (Changyu, in Shandong with vitis vinifera and other species tointriguing array of exotic varieties that Asian Prefecture, and what is now known as provide more wine-friendly cultivarswinemakers are working with, and now Dragon Seal, in Beijing) did introduce with greater tolerance to the extremeapplying globally acquired viticultural and classic European varieties for this purpose. cold climates in northern China, wherewinemaking skills to these local resources But when the contemporary wine industry introduced vinifera varieties struggle andto produce uniquely Asian wines. began to gain traction in the early 1980s the vines have to be buried in the winter it was one of the original migrant vinifera to protect them from the ice and snow. Some of them are vitis vinifera varieties varieties, longyan (literally, dragon’s eye), The most widely used are beichun, beimeithat originated in Central Asia and the that was principally used, along with some and beihong, each of which produces redMiddle East and, over the centuries, muscat varieties. grapes, in various hues; they are crossesmoved progressively further east, being of muscat hamburg with vitis amurensis,carried along the Silk Road by traders Longyan was the core resource for the wild vine found along the Amur River,and ending up as far away as China and China's second-largest winery, Great which separates Russia and China.Japan. The other major resource is the Wall, headquartered in Heibei Province,vast range of indigenous grape varieties adjacent to the famous structure after which Winemaking didn’t start in Japan untillocals had traditionally relied on for their the winery is named. Great Wall and most the mid 19th century, although the grapefruit and beverages. of the other significant Chinese wineries variety that was the original resource for have progressively shifted to classic winemakers (and is still the most widely China’s Northwest Agriculture and European vinifera varieties, particularly grown) arrived in Japan 1300 yearsForestry University, for example, claims cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, ago. It a vinifera variety, called koshu,that of the 70 known vitis species globally, though longyan is still used to produce with the same geographic origin as27 originated in China: collectively they are Great Wall’s core white wines labelled, longyan, though very recent DNA testingknown as shanputao (literally, mountain simply, dry white, medium-dry white and indicates that the koshu used today isgrape). Most of these species, however, medium-sweet white. Great Wall also only 90 per cent of vinifera origin, with theare not particularly suitable for wine makes a very fine brandy from this variety. balance derived from indigenous species.production, especially in contemporarystyles. So in recent years there has been May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 41
Above (L-R): Muscat Bailey at Takeda Winery in Japan, Koshu & Malaga Blanc grapes. Opposite: An inspection of the vines in the early ripening stages.Wild grape species have been crossed with vitis vinifera andother species to provide more wine-friendly cultivars with greatertolerance to the extreme cold climates in northern China.In the Yamanashi region, where koshu is the severe in Japan, and there are now several recovering from the devastating Tokachistaple variety, it’s very difficult to fully ripen sparkling versions. Kyoho, riesling lion, earthquake in the late 1960s. He thoughtthe grapes; accordingly, the wines are crisp shinano riesling, riesling forte, kai blanc, he could help rebuild local confidence byand acidic, rather than soft and fruity (like kai noir, honey venus, black queen, red taming the wild grape (vitis amurensis)longyan). They are an ideal accompaniment millenium and campbell early are other growing in nearby mountains as a resourcefor much of the traditional Japanese cuisine, hybrids that do well in Japan’s annual for a new industry. The Tokachi winery wasand especially with sushi and sashimi. wine competition. A campbell early rosé Hokkaido’s first. It went on to create its own made by Kyushu-based Tsuno Winery varieties, kyomi and kyomai, by crossing Beyond Koshu, there are at least a dozen was chosen as one of the world’s 100 most the wild vine with the seibel variety, sourcedother varieties used in winemaking that are exciting wine finds in the inaugural (2004) from Switzerland, so they could be grown inunique to Japan. Among them is the vinifera edition of Wine Report, the annual round-up a more conventional vineyard environment.white grape variety, ryugan, thought to of the world of wine.be related to longyan. There are also Vitis coignetiae is the common nativeseveral locally bred hybrids, crossings of Indigenous grapes - known collectively species on the main island, Honshu.vinifera and labrusca, that do well in local as yamabudo (literally, mountain grape) Yamanashi viticulturalist Kaoru Sawanoboriconditions and are expanding resources - have also been resurrected as a wine set out in the 1970s to improve the localfor the wine industry. grape in Japan. vine for winemaking. He crossed the local vitis coignetiae with a Himalayan and a The most interesting of these is muscat One of the country’s legendary wine Russian wild grape and created shokoshibailey A, which is sometimes made into a identities, Kaneyasu Marutani, was the (literally, little prince). It ripens withoutsoft, Beaujolais-style red wine, or blended youthful mayor of Ikeda-cho, on the difficulty, unlike coignetiae, and producesto soften merlot, which can be a little northern island of Hokkaido, when it was42 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
a rich, fruity wine with striking purple Thailand’s biggest wine producer, white grapes in the delta. Another grapecolour, whereas the original vine delivers Siam Winery, has given a wine identity to grown in the delta region and made invariegated fruit and, hence, brownish- two local table grape varieties under its a rosé style which goes particularly wellcoloured, austere wines. Monsoon Valley label. Malaga blanc is a with Thai food is called pokdum. It is a white grape grown in the so-called floating mysterious vinifera/labrusca hybrid variety, More recently, yamabudo has been crossed vineyards on the Chao Praya delta around possibly introduced from Japan.with vinifera varieties with very interesting Bangkok. Jancis Robinson has written thatoutcomes. The best so far is a variety now the variety might be related to semillon. In India there is quite an array ofknown as yamasauvignon, a crossing of But when you see the grapes on the vines indigenous grape varieties, though they arecoignetiae with cabernet sauvignon. the fruit varies enormously - some grapes mostly used as table grapes or for drying. are quite long, like the lady finger table Two that are used by local wine producers In South Korea, where wild grapes are grape, and some are small, about the size are arkavati (white) and akeshyam (red).called sanmouru (literally, mountain grape), a of a tight semillon. Industry pioneer, Chateau Indage, usesvery pleasing semi-sweet red wine style was akeshayam in a very pleasing light reddeveloped from local armurensis grapes by Possibly, white grapes were first brought blend under its Vin Ballet label; it is almostlocal visionary, the late Roh Chong-ku. His to Thailand by trading ships from Malaga in gamay in style, and ideal with IndianEast of Eden Empery Cupid Wild Grape Wine Spain and, subsequently, the term malaga curries. It blends arkavati with ugni blancwas another choice for Wine Report’s 100 blanc has become a collective name for for its Vin Ballet white.most exciting wine finds, in the 2006 edition. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 43
SO YOU THINKYOU’RE COOLAt 30 below, this Canadian wineregion has a unique set of challengesWINDSOR DOBBING R A P E G R O W E R S in regions such Visitors flock from the cities of Toronto, Known as PEC to the locals, the county Montreal and Ottawa, between two and still trails behind the Okanagan in Britishas Orange, Canberra and Tasmania like four hours’ drive away, and the number of Columbia and the Niagara-on-the-Laketo think they are on the cutting edge of wineries has soared from just one in 2001 to district in southern Ontario, both in termscool-climate viticulture, but the wineries 30 in 2011 as a growing number of emigres of wine production and recognition, butof Ontario in Canada, best-known for their from the big smoke of Toronto live out their its producers are keen to show there isstunning ice wines, have to deal with some dreams of rural idyll. Winter temperatures, much more to Canadian wine than thepretty extreme conditions. however, can sometimes exceed minus famous (and expensive) ice wines. Both 30C - enough to kill even healthy vines - traditional varieties and cold-resistant Ontario wineries take advantage of which is why those in this part of the world hybrids appear to be doing well in aa temperate climate, enhanced by the have to be pruned back and buried during region bordered by Lake Ontario anddiversity of glacial soils and the moderating winter to protect delicate buds. the Bay of Quinte that’s blessed witheffect of the Great Lakes, to produce terroir dominated by stony soils andmature fruit and complex wines - but Vineyards are generally under threat if some limestone.winter poses some interesting problems. winter temperatures fall to below minus 20C,Ontario wine country is located between so the Canadian vines, typically trained low41 and 44 degrees north, similar in latitude to the ground, are usually covered in soil orto Burgundy, and extreme fluctuations in snow in autumn, and then dug up again indaily temperatures create conditions that spring - at a huge cost. Wind machines arelocals say are critical to creating a balance often used to guard against frost damage.between acidity and fruitiness. Here, grapegrowing demands grit - and a little madness - and several growers have Prince Edward County is Canada’s newest opted for hybrids such as vidal and bacowine appellation, recognised only in 2007 noir, varieties that can withstand brutal coldand producing minerally wines, boutique snaps and don’t need burying in winter.beers, crisp ciders and artisanal cheeses.It is in southern Ontario at the eastern end Prince Edward County is a postcard-of Lake Ontario and has a population of pretty region that is not only producingjust 25,000. “The County” has become a some impressive cold-climate wines buttop culinary destination, sometimes called also has attractive cellar doors, restaurants,the gastronomic capital of the region, given art galleries, antique stores and beautifullyits many vineyards, organic farms and restored old barns.community of artists and chefs.44 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
Above: Huff Estates Winery. Norm Hardie, of Norman Hardie Wines, base because of its clay and limestone because I know they’re sleeping safelyis one of the pioneers in PEC, producing terroir, similar in many ways to Burgundy’s. under a blanket of soil and snow,” sayselegant chardonnays and pinot noirs. He’s unperturbed by the region’s many Lauren Horlock, winemaker at Hiller Estate.His assistant winemaker, Richard Charnock, challenges, saying, “If you don’t push theis spending the 2011 vintage with leading limits, you can’t make great wine.” Nestled around the communities of Picton,Tasmanian winemaker Stefano Lubiana at Bloomfield and Wellington; Prince EdwardGranton, just north of Hobart. A former sommelier with the Four Seasons County is well worth a visit for any wine lover. hotel group, Norm roamed the globe before “I was very keen to work in Tasmania settling in Prince Edward County, where he Other leading wineries include high-techbecause it specialises in the two varieties strives for taut, mineral-driven styles from Huff Estates, Closson Chase, Black Prince,- pinot noir and chardonnay - that we his chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot gris and Casa-Dea, Waupoos Estates, Keint-he andspecialise in at the winery,” Richard says. melon de bourgogne. His attitude to the Rosehall Run, while Harwood Estate is one winter cold is shared by his winemaking of Canada’s few solar-powered wineries. Burgundy-trained Norm, who has also colleagues. “On a snowy January day,worked in South Africa, Oregon, New I don’t have to worry about the vines Waupoos Estates started the modern boomZealand and California, chose PEC as his when Ed Neuser and Rita Kaimins planted the first commercial vineyard in PEC in 1993. May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 45
Above & opposite: Waupoos Estate Winery cellar door and gazebo looking out over Lake Ontario.“It was after a couple of glasses of wine, corn sauce and bacon, or Waupoos cider- sign of the region’s growing reputation foror maybe it was a couple of bottles, that brined pork chop with apple pecan quinoa; both food and wine. But visitors need towe decided to plant grapes,” he jokes. maybe paired with a glass of local Norman time their trip. Most of the cellar doors are“Everybody thought we were off our rockers Hardie Melon de Bourgogne or Sandbanks only open from May to November, when the- we had no experience growing grapes or Estate Riesling. weather is kind, and by appointment overmaking wines.” the colder months. The Merrill Inn in Picton, the Claramount Dining out options in the county range from Inn and Spa, the Inn at Huff Estate and the The district was once home to more thanthe funky Buddha Dog (where the artisan Devonshire Inn on the shores of Lake Ontario, 200 cheese producers. A handful stillsausages have been named Canada’s best outside Wellington, are among the best survive, along with producers of ciders andhotdogs) to the casual East & Main Bistro places to stay, while The Taste Trail is a self- other artisanal agricultural wares, manyand the Hedgehog gastro pub in Port Hope, guided tour of 31 of the region’s best wineries offering what foodies call “an authenticto fine dining at Angeline’s Restaurant, and restaurants. See www.tastetrail.ca. experience”. There are also dozens ofHarvest restaurant and the upmarket roadside antique stores and craft outletsBloomfield Carriage House. At East & Main Leading Toronto chef Jamie Kennedy, dotted throughout the region. The localsyou can dine on dishes such as wild smoked from Gilead Bistro, has a farm in Prince have a quirky sense of humour - one antiqueAtlantic salmon with colcannon, creamed Edward County and plans to open a store is named Dead People’s Stuff. paddock-to-table restaurant in a further46 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
ON A SNOWY JANUARY DAY, I DON’T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE VINES BECAUSE I KNOW THEY’RE SLEEPING SAFELY UNDER A BLANKET OF SOIL AND SNOW. Ottawa - Montreal Exit Exit Exit 579 566 570 Napanee 401 Exit Exit Marysville 2 8 543 544 2 Deseronto Exit 538 49 62 37Toronto 401 RednersvilleBReollsesvmilolere BBaigy Bay of Quinte Northport Green Point gstonExitExitExit 1 Long Reach 22522 525 2 9 21in509TQBruaeyinntotofen Demorestville Hay Bay K olphus ReacChressy30 62 28 15 35 25 8 5 6 Brighton CParlraycieng WBelalyersAMCELoInAseScBonURGHAHmilleileiraRsobsuerhgallHWWIeLelBLllilInaiEnygRgtotonn LWaeksetHAAthSLoOLl OBPaWByHlLoEEIAoaLakmsLSetfBielUAd RTHGOHVCaLhleleryryPicPtoicMntoinlfSoBr.adyMGABNllReaW.ncYSakoMSourRauBpAitoUvhRoeRsBrYGaASydHBoUlpREhPGudBsrHtwioanwaAycndred240 49 33 TAFT RD.33 23 Muscote Bay 21 2 14WOOLER RD. 3 KAISER CROSSROAD 64 VICTORIA RD. ROCK CROSSROAD SMOKES POINT RD. 19 CHRISTIAN RD. 62 4 TUBBS RD. 6 ROSES CROSSROAD BLAKE RD. 5 ZUFELLTARKDE. SIDE DRIVE. MELVILLE RD. McFAUL RD. 1 JONES RD. CHUCKERY HILL RD. 7 BOCRNOGSASRRDOSAD 30 FRY RD. 8A 32 CRROOSSSSREOAAUD SALEM RD. Lake MELVILLERD. 2 HULL RD. 34 CROBSRSARDOLEAYDS 25 KELLARS CROSSROADS LAKESIDE DRIVE. 1 29 Consecon CLOSSON RD. WILSON RD. WILKES RD. MATTHIE RD. TRIPP RD. 8 GILEAD RD. MAY RD. 39 STATION RD. BENWAY RD. BAITLEYS RD. NSECON ST. WILD OAK RD. MORGAN RD. 33 22 KINGSLEY RD. 8OLD MILFORD RD. CHASE RD. PIERCE RD. CLRUOCSKSSROAD STINSON BLOCK RD. PALMER-BURRIS RD. RIDGE RD. CLOSSON RD. 17MILLER 13 COSWLLAEMGEPRD. SLAVEN RD. AIRPORT LANE RD. MCTRCOHSESLRLOSAD ARTHUR RD. CO WESLEY ACRES RD. CLARKE RD. MCRcKOISNSLREOYAD PARTRIDGE DANFORTH RD. CONLEY RD. MOWBRAY RD. OLD MILFORD RD. HOLLOW RD. GREER RD. MARISETT RD. YOUNG RD. 27 PLEASANT BAY RD. COLD CREEK RD. CHRUEBEBKSRD. RSIHDAGNENRODN. RD. 10EAMES RD. MILLER RD. 16 BAKKER RD. GREER RD. 12 JACKSONS FALLS RD. CROWES RD. 33 KLEINSTUBER RD. 11 17SMCOILTLTRSD. 20 Half Moon Bay 18 10 BOND RD. MURPHY RD. 13 BABYLON RD. WHATTAMS RD. GRAVELLY BAY RD. 18 KINGS RD. BRUMMELL RD. WALMSLEY RD. MAYPULLAYN RD. 10 BABYLON RD. SALMON POINT RD. KELLY RD. ROYAL RD. HELMER RD. SANDBANKS RANKIN SHCOHUOSOELRD. LIGHTHALL RD. DAINARD RD. BREWERS RD. PROVINCIAL RD. ROYAL RD. ARMY RESERVE RD. PARK WELBANKS 24 RD. Soup Harbour May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 47
BLEND OF Two Fine TalentsLaurie partnership heads in exciting directions on Deviation RoadNIGEL HOPKINSIT WAS quite some apprenticeship and a spell in California, working with Domaine character and continue to provide much ofit’s paid off handsomely for “winemaker Chandon in the Napa Valley, which was when the fruit for Deviation Road, although theyand cellar hand” Hamish Laurie who, with the international significance of the Australian are no longer owned by the Laurie family.his winemaker wife Kate, has established wine industry really dawned on him. “It was the right decision to sell Hillstowe atthe Deviation Road winery and cellar the time,” Hamish says. “We were at the pointdoor. In little more than a decade the Hamish moved back to Australia for a where we needed to grow to the next stagepair has developed a small but highly three-year stint with Negotiants, which and we either took in investors or sold.”regarded portfolio of labels that includes provided him with an education in retailan acclaimed Reserve Shiraz and, recently, markets, margins, marketing and export That happened in 2000, when the winerya medal-winning sparkling wine. sales, before joining his father at Hillstowe was sold - which was also the year Hamish as general manager in 1992. Over the next and Kate married. A West Australian, Kate If there’s a secret to their somewhat eight years, until it was sold to Banksia had studied in France and obtained herrapid success it probably lies in the Wines, Hillstowe grew from producing winemaking degree from the Lycee Viticolecomplementary skills of their partnership - 2000 cases a year to 15,000, in the process d’Avize in Champagne in 1997. ReturningKate, 34, as the well-trained winemaker and becoming a well-known and acclaimed to Australia, she furthered her cool-climateHamish, 44, with his experience in sales label. “These were heady days,” Hamish winemaking experience by working atand marketing. As all winemakers know says, “when you could go overseas and her family’s Stone Bridge Estate winery inonly too well, it’s one thing to make great come back with a swag of orders.” Manjimup, Western Australia, for the nextwine but quite another to sell it. four vintages, during which she began Hillstowe had its cellar door in Hahndorf specialising in bottle-fermented and aged Despite his early exposure to grapegrowing and drew on the 16ha family vineyards sparkling wines - a talent she has nowand winemaking, it was not an initial choice Dr Laurie had planted in 1983 on Deviation brought to full bloom at Deviation Road.for Hamish who for a while seemed destined Road at Carey Gully, making it one of thefor a career in hospitality, initially working oldest vineyards in the area. These cool- Hamish had started the Deviation Road labelas a food and beverage professional with climate vineyards, at an altitude of nearly a year earlier, perhaps anticipating the dayPacific Hotels Group. This was followed by 600m, were at the heart of the Hillstowe when he might need to create his own career, May/June 2011 W I N E S TAT E 49
WE’RE STILL TRYING TO MATCH VARIETIES AND CLONES TO VARIOUS SITES AND TO MAKE SENSE OF WHAT GROWS BEST WHERE. and he had the great advantage of access to Almost 35 hectares of the Lauries’ property premium Hills grapes - the sauvignon blanc, has been left as virgin scrubland, with the pinot gris, and multiple clones of pinot noir addition of a juvenile oak plantation Hamish and chardonnay planted at Deviation Road. has planted with a view to harvesting Winemaking then, as now, took place in a truffles in another decade - another first former cheese factory at Mt Torrens. for the Adelaide Hills and indicative of his long-term ambitions for the property. In 2004 Hamish and Kate bought a 50ha former dairy farm on Scott Creek Rd at The Longwood property has also seen Longwood in the Adelaide Hills, seeing it the transformation of the original old as a home for their expanding family rather dairy into a 50-tonne capacity winery, than a winery, and with no intention to plant first used to create wines for the 2008 grapes. But with several promising sites vintage. This facility has given Hamish on the property it was too tempting, and and Kate the flexibility to have hands- although Kate still refers to the property on contact with all their wines, through as an “experimental and research site” it every stage of development in their is likely to become much more than that. small-batch processing. So far 3ha has been planted with gruner veltliner, pinot noir and shiraz, with their first vintage expected in 2013. Another 10ha or so could be used for vines. “The Adelaide Hills provides so many potential sites that we’re still very much pioneering the region,” Kate says. “We’re still trying to match varieties and clones to various sites and to make sense of what grows best where.” Expansion has been conservative and funded by wine sales, which have grown to around 5500 cases a year, and culminated last year with the opening of a small but elegant and practical cellar door, with big stone gate pillars on Scott Creek Rd signalling its presence.50 W I N E S TAT E May/June 2011
Search
Read the Text Version
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4
- 5
- 6
- 7
- 8
- 9
- 10
- 11
- 12
- 13
- 14
- 15
- 16
- 17
- 18
- 19
- 20
- 21
- 22
- 23
- 24
- 25
- 26
- 27
- 28
- 29
- 30
- 31
- 32
- 33
- 34
- 35
- 36
- 37
- 38
- 39
- 40
- 41
- 42
- 43
- 44
- 45
- 46
- 47
- 48
- 49
- 50
- 51
- 52
- 53
- 54
- 55
- 56
- 57
- 58
- 59
- 60
- 61
- 62
- 63
- 64
- 65
- 66
- 67
- 68
- 69
- 70
- 71
- 72
- 73
- 74
- 75
- 76
- 77
- 78
- 79
- 80
- 81
- 82
- 83
- 84
- 85
- 86
- 87
- 88
- 89
- 90
- 91
- 92
- 93
- 94
- 95
- 96
- 97
- 98
- 99
- 100
- 101
- 102
- 103
- 104
- 105
- 106
- 107
- 108
- 109
- 110
- 111
- 112
- 113
- 114
- 115
- 116
- 117
- 118
- 119
- 120
- 121
- 122
- 123
- 124
- 125
- 126
- 127
- 128
- 129
- 130
- 131
- 132
- 133
- 134
- 135
- 136
- 137
- 138
- 139
- 140
- 141
- 142
- 143
- 144
- 145
- 146
- 147
- 148
- 149
- 150
- 151
- 152
- 153
- 154
- 155
- 156
- 157
- 158
- 159
- 160
- 161
- 162
- 163
- 164
